# Handplane Restoration



## WayneC

*Planes, Planes, Planes*

After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.










Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.

I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.

I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.

I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.

Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.

Time to close for tonight.


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## MsDebbieP

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


that's quite a collection. Plane and simple.


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## Wooder

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


Wayne. that's a nice selection of planes. Didn't notice any blocks though? I too am a ebay plane buyer and there are lots of 60 1/2s from time to time.

When I figure out how to post pics I'll post some of my planes. About 30+ of them.

Good luck and have fun fettling away on your toys….I mean tools…...


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


I have a number of block planes, scrapers and spokeshaves. My primary blocks are a pair of lie-nelsons. Although I am jonesing for a #18. I was just focusing on bench planes from a resortation perspective.


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## BassBully

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


WayneC,

It looks to me like you need more room in your shop. If you guys post information on planes, can you teach us a little about the types of planes? I've been looking on Ebay for planes and there's so many - Block, hand, jack, etc and different sizes I don't know where to start. For example, I would like a plane to flatten to mismatched surfaces, which one to use. Also, jointer work, etc.


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## jpw1995

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


I just ordered the video through the link you provided. I have some old Stanley and Bedrock planes that were my great grandfather's, and I'm looking forward to restoring them to their former glory. I'm very excited about the idea of using the same planes that my great grandfather used, and he definitely USED them. They are in pretty bad shape, but I'm sure they can be brought back to life.


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## Matt

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


Wayne you're making me want to start combing the antique stores, flea markets and staking out ebay again! I thought I had enough irons in the fire but after looking at your collection of planes I think it's time to stoke the flames and make room for some more. I'm so glad you're finding the recent series of episodes on hand planes enjoyable, they're such a passion of mine and I can't wait to get back to a project where I can use them. Hopefully in the next week or so I can start the videos to accompany the audio episodes.


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## TheKiltedWoodworker

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


BB,

There are a lot of good books out there on hand tools (and hand planes in particular) that might offer you better information. Or, at least, it would be information already "edited" for clarity and publication purposes, so it would be easier to read, use, and understand.

Suggested Reading:
"Traditional Woodworking Handtools" by Graham Blackburn
"Classic Hand Tools" by Garrett Hack
"A Guide to Hand-Tools and Methods" by David Charlesworth (note: I've actually never read this, but I'm going to be ordering it soon. This is Volume #3 of a series he's writing. I have his first two (some of which have some plane information in them, as well), and they are superbly written and full of useful information.)

If you have a library card, your first stop should be the local library and try to find some books there.

If you don't have a library card, you should get one.


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


I have the classic hand tools book and would also recommend it. I also have one of David Charlesworth's books and can recommend them. I'm jumping the gun a bit on providing my reference list. But I also own and can recommend the following items.

*Books*

The Handplane Book (Paperback) by Garrett Hack

Working with Handplanes (New Best of Fine Woodworking) (Paperback) 
by Editors of Fine Woodworking

Planecraft by C.W. Hampton and E. Clifford

Making & Mastering Wood Planes (Paperback) by David Finck

The Complete Guide to Sharpening by Leonard Lee

*Videos*

All from Lie-Nielson toolworks

Hand Tool Techniques Part 1: Plane Sharpening - David Charlesworth
Hand Tool Techniques Part 2: Hand Planing - David Charlesworth
Precision Shooting Simplified - David Charlesworth
Hand Planing and Sharpening - Rob Cosman
Rough to Ready - Rob Cosman

Sharpening Woodworking Tools with Leonard Lee

I will try to add a few more after I review my library.


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## TheKiltedWoodworker

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


But maybe your first stop should be at the afore mentioned Patrick's Blood and Gore, if you want to read up on all the different Stanley planes and their uses.

Patrick is a great writer with an even greater sense of humor.


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


Oh and "Traditional Woodworking Handtools" by Graham Blackburn is on my wish list.

I also really like the video Forgotten Hand Tools by Chris Schwarz

Subjects include using cut nails to toe nail panels, pinned tenons using pins created with a doweling plate and using hand saws


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## TheKiltedWoodworker

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


Wayne, if you like Chris Schwarz, you should definitely check out his alter-ego woodworking magazine, simply called Woodworking Magazine.

You can get all of the back issues on one CD (they only put out two issues a year at the moment, so there aren't a whole lot of back issues, to be honest with you).

Each issue is filled with info. If you haven't read it yet, you should definitely check it out.


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


Thanks. I will check it out. I also like his blog.


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


Jimmy,

These are some of my other planes.










I did create a thread on posting pictures. It has some info from the folks in the know.


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## Woodwayze

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


Oh Yeah. Nice planes…

I just missed a Bedrock smoother on eBay the other day. Lost out for the sake of $2.00 higher bid at the last second. Someone must have sniped me!

There you go. I had to settle for a Spiers wooden infill smother. I am looking forward to restoring it as you might guess.

John (UK)


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


You win some, you lose some. The Spiers sounds real nice. You will have to post some pictures.

Also, let me know if you ever run across a side handle for a Record T5. I'm looking for one.


----------



## dennis

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


...all just plane crazy…


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


Also Woodsmith has a plane Pod cast available - Why you need hand planes in your shop

This is a good overview if your wondering what the fuss is all about.


----------



## BlueStingrayBoots

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


Awesome Wayne! I have one plane and never use it. Ill be exploring the plane field someday, every master crafter has them.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


Please post when you do. How have you been doing?


----------



## sal

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


Beautiful collection of planes Wayne!
I have two old stanley 4 1/2 smoothing planes, one from the late 1800's and one from the early 1900's. I would like to install a Hock blade on one, but it seemed that you need to file, and enlarge the mouth, to accommodate the width of the Hock blade. Did you widen yours when you installed the Hock blade, and do you think adding a Hock chipbreaker is a worthwhile addition?


----------



## swirt

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


I have a Hock blade and chipbreaker in my pre-war #4 and did not have to make any modifications at all. It works great.


----------



## sal

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


Thanks you swirt, There is something sacred about these old planes. I would hate to distort one and have some future woodworker look back at me with distain.


----------



## swirt

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


There is enough variation between various years of Stanley planes, that maybe some No4's need to have their mouths enlarged to accommodate a Hock Iron, but mine did not, and I have also put the same iron and chipbreaker into my no5 as well without any need for modification. I can't promise you that your experience will be the same with a 4-1/2


----------



## sal

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


I was able to get a Hock iron at the Japan Woodworker in Alameda, Ca. It worked perfectly on the Stanley No. 4 1/2 with the frog design from 1902-1907. The older 4 1/2, the 1872-1888 frog could not be pushed back enough to accommodate the hefty Hock blade without widening the mouth. The Hock A2 blade made a significant difference in the plane's performance.
Is that a no. 54 spoke shave with your block planes?


----------



## SSAyotte

WayneC said:


> *Planes, Planes, Planes*
> 
> After a long week at work, I decided it was time to start the process of restoring my bench planes. I have been collecting them for a while with the intent of getting a good set of operational hand planes. I am hoping I will get a good set of usable planes at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently, I have the following size planes set aside for restoration: #3, #4, #4 1/2, #605, #5 1/2, #6, #7 and #8. All of these are Stanley except for the #8 which is a Sargent VBM 428. The #4 1/2 and the #605 (bedrock) are in good working order. I have gotten Hock blades for these planes (4 1/2 and 605) and plan to save the original blades.
> 
> I also was successful this evening on ebay and purchased a Record T5 handplane. This is a plane that was used to teach woodworking in the UK. It has larger sides than a normal #5 and the sides are square for shooting. I will post some photos of it when it arrives. I am also actively looking for 5 1/4, 10, 10 1/4, and 10 1/2 planes.
> 
> I plan to take photos documenting the process I follow for each plane. As a starting point, I am following the general instructions provided Reclaiming Flea-Market Planes by Ernie Conover. I also have a number of videos and other informations sources relative to sharpening and using planes. I will compile these and post these as well.
> 
> I've also noted that Matt has a series of Podcasts on hand planes running. I'm a little behind and will have to get caught up.
> 
> Also if you would like information on Stanley planes. I recommend The Superior Works: Patrick's Blood and Gore as the best reference for Stanley hand planes on the internet.
> 
> Time to close for tonight.


Wayne - I have a 5 and 3/4 that nobody has been able to tell me where it came from. Any ideas?


----------



## WayneC

*Preparations for restoring a hand plane*

I've had a couple of 12-14 hour workdays this week and have not had the opportunities for restoring any planes. I decided to take a little time this evening to discuss items that will be needed for the restoration process. The basis for this list comes from the Ernie Conover Video on Reclaiming flea market planes. Hopefully, he will update this video and release on DVD.

The list is as follows:

*Lap Plate* - used to lap the sole and sides of a plane
- Plastic Laminate - speeds the process
- Heavy Plate Glass - flat surface 
- Contact Cement
- Laminate Roller

Lee Valley also sells a glass plate and plastic that adhears to the plate
Other alternatives include using sandpaper on a granate plate or on a flat surface such as a table saw wing or jointer bed

*Grit for sole and sides*
- Emery paper
- Silicon carbide abrasive 60 Grit (powder)

I ordered some Grit from lee valley and also found some locally at a lapidary supply house.
Also you could use 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.

*Abrasives for cleaning metal parts*
- Coarse, medium and fine abrasive blocks
- 120 Grit Emery Paper

*General cleaning*
- Scotch bright
- Alcohol (Denatured)

*Finishing*
- White Shellac
- Orange Shellac

*Other*
- Squeeze bottle for alcohol
- Paraffin

*Sharpening*
- Honing guide
- Angle gauge
- Water Stones
- Tormek

I am using a Lee Valley Honing Guide and Angle gauge, and Norton 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit waterstones. I have a 220 grit or so diamond stone that is used to flatten the water stones. I also think the new Pinnacle sharpening system being sold by woodcraft may be worth a look.

For setting the primary bevel angle on the plane blade I have a grinding jig from wolverine that integrates with my lathe tool sharpening system. The Tormek is on my "someday" list.

Please add to or correct this list as you see fit. As there are many ways to approch this problem. Thanks for reading and hopefully, I will get a plane restored and documented this weekend.


----------



## Karson

WayneC said:


> *Preparations for restoring a hand plane*
> 
> I've had a couple of 12-14 hour workdays this week and have not had the opportunities for restoring any planes. I decided to take a little time this evening to discuss items that will be needed for the restoration process. The basis for this list comes from the Ernie Conover Video on Reclaiming flea market planes. Hopefully, he will update this video and release on DVD.
> 
> The list is as follows:
> 
> *Lap Plate* - used to lap the sole and sides of a plane
> - Plastic Laminate - speeds the process
> - Heavy Plate Glass - flat surface
> - Contact Cement
> - Laminate Roller
> 
> Lee Valley also sells a glass plate and plastic that adhears to the plate
> Other alternatives include using sandpaper on a granate plate or on a flat surface such as a table saw wing or jointer bed
> 
> *Grit for sole and sides*
> - Emery paper
> - Silicon carbide abrasive 60 Grit (powder)
> 
> I ordered some Grit from lee valley and also found some locally at a lapidary supply house.
> Also you could use 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.
> 
> *Abrasives for cleaning metal parts*
> - Coarse, medium and fine abrasive blocks
> - 120 Grit Emery Paper
> 
> *General cleaning*
> - Scotch bright
> - Alcohol (Denatured)
> 
> *Finishing*
> - White Shellac
> - Orange Shellac
> 
> *Other*
> - Squeeze bottle for alcohol
> - Paraffin
> 
> *Sharpening*
> - Honing guide
> - Angle gauge
> - Water Stones
> - Tormek
> 
> I am using a Lee Valley Honing Guide and Angle gauge, and Norton 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit waterstones. I have a 220 grit or so diamond stone that is used to flatten the water stones. I also think the new Pinnacle sharpening system being sold by woodcraft may be worth a look.
> 
> For setting the primary bevel angle on the plane blade I have a grinding jig from wolverine that integrates with my lathe tool sharpening system. The Tormek is on my "someday" list.
> 
> Please add to or correct this list as you see fit. As there are many ways to approch this problem. Thanks for reading and hopefully, I will get a plane restored and documented this weekend.


I bought the Pinnacle and it is nice. I tried it on diamond plate and it really took it down nice. I don't have waterstones so I was going to try it with scary sharp paper. I didn't purchase the Pinnacle paper holder but I think that MDF would work fine as a base with something at the ends to hold the paper and keep it from slipping.


----------



## TheKiltedWoodworker

WayneC said:


> *Preparations for restoring a hand plane*
> 
> I've had a couple of 12-14 hour workdays this week and have not had the opportunities for restoring any planes. I decided to take a little time this evening to discuss items that will be needed for the restoration process. The basis for this list comes from the Ernie Conover Video on Reclaiming flea market planes. Hopefully, he will update this video and release on DVD.
> 
> The list is as follows:
> 
> *Lap Plate* - used to lap the sole and sides of a plane
> - Plastic Laminate - speeds the process
> - Heavy Plate Glass - flat surface
> - Contact Cement
> - Laminate Roller
> 
> Lee Valley also sells a glass plate and plastic that adhears to the plate
> Other alternatives include using sandpaper on a granate plate or on a flat surface such as a table saw wing or jointer bed
> 
> *Grit for sole and sides*
> - Emery paper
> - Silicon carbide abrasive 60 Grit (powder)
> 
> I ordered some Grit from lee valley and also found some locally at a lapidary supply house.
> Also you could use 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.
> 
> *Abrasives for cleaning metal parts*
> - Coarse, medium and fine abrasive blocks
> - 120 Grit Emery Paper
> 
> *General cleaning*
> - Scotch bright
> - Alcohol (Denatured)
> 
> *Finishing*
> - White Shellac
> - Orange Shellac
> 
> *Other*
> - Squeeze bottle for alcohol
> - Paraffin
> 
> *Sharpening*
> - Honing guide
> - Angle gauge
> - Water Stones
> - Tormek
> 
> I am using a Lee Valley Honing Guide and Angle gauge, and Norton 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit waterstones. I have a 220 grit or so diamond stone that is used to flatten the water stones. I also think the new Pinnacle sharpening system being sold by woodcraft may be worth a look.
> 
> For setting the primary bevel angle on the plane blade I have a grinding jig from wolverine that integrates with my lathe tool sharpening system. The Tormek is on my "someday" list.
> 
> Please add to or correct this list as you see fit. As there are many ways to approch this problem. Thanks for reading and hopefully, I will get a plane restored and documented this weekend.


I took a look at the Pinnacle tools. Having just recently picked up the Veritas Mark II, I'm not interested in the jig, but their angle gauge is foolproof, their micro-sqare is dead sexy, and they have some really high-grit paper which is sometimes hard to find.

For a grinder, I picked up a WoodCraft slow-speed grinder (1750 rpm) with 80 grit and 120 grit AO stones for $80 on sale a few years ago and it hasn't done me wrong yet.

Looks like a great list, Wayne. I know some might call this heresy, but I also have lacquer thinner in my repetoire, as I like to remove that plastic-like coating of lacquer on the knob and tote and replace it with a wipe-on varnish and wax finish after sanding them smooth. But I'm not looking to restore a plane as a collector - I want them to be usable. And my hands don't like the slick glossy finish, so off it goes.

If this rainy weather holds up through the weekend, then like you, I'll be trying to photo and doc up one plane restoration this weekend - if I can get some of the HD list knocked out, that is… Man, that thing is never-ending.


----------



## Paul

WayneC said:


> *Preparations for restoring a hand plane*
> 
> I've had a couple of 12-14 hour workdays this week and have not had the opportunities for restoring any planes. I decided to take a little time this evening to discuss items that will be needed for the restoration process. The basis for this list comes from the Ernie Conover Video on Reclaiming flea market planes. Hopefully, he will update this video and release on DVD.
> 
> The list is as follows:
> 
> *Lap Plate* - used to lap the sole and sides of a plane
> - Plastic Laminate - speeds the process
> - Heavy Plate Glass - flat surface
> - Contact Cement
> - Laminate Roller
> 
> Lee Valley also sells a glass plate and plastic that adhears to the plate
> Other alternatives include using sandpaper on a granate plate or on a flat surface such as a table saw wing or jointer bed
> 
> *Grit for sole and sides*
> - Emery paper
> - Silicon carbide abrasive 60 Grit (powder)
> 
> I ordered some Grit from lee valley and also found some locally at a lapidary supply house.
> Also you could use 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.
> 
> *Abrasives for cleaning metal parts*
> - Coarse, medium and fine abrasive blocks
> - 120 Grit Emery Paper
> 
> *General cleaning*
> - Scotch bright
> - Alcohol (Denatured)
> 
> *Finishing*
> - White Shellac
> - Orange Shellac
> 
> *Other*
> - Squeeze bottle for alcohol
> - Paraffin
> 
> *Sharpening*
> - Honing guide
> - Angle gauge
> - Water Stones
> - Tormek
> 
> I am using a Lee Valley Honing Guide and Angle gauge, and Norton 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit waterstones. I have a 220 grit or so diamond stone that is used to flatten the water stones. I also think the new Pinnacle sharpening system being sold by woodcraft may be worth a look.
> 
> For setting the primary bevel angle on the plane blade I have a grinding jig from wolverine that integrates with my lathe tool sharpening system. The Tormek is on my "someday" list.
> 
> Please add to or correct this list as you see fit. As there are many ways to approch this problem. Thanks for reading and hopefully, I will get a plane restored and documented this weekend.


Wayne -

I hope you don't mind me posting this on your blog.

But just a comment to the old plane restorers. There are old tools out there that are actually quite valuable from a collectable stand point. It might not hurt to go to some of the internet informational sites along these lines and get an idea of what is common and what is not. Even some of the common tools are valuable if they're quite old. For example, I owned a 100+ year old metal plane for a while that I picked up for $12 at the flea market. It was a common 14" Stanley jack plane (No. 5), but since it was a very early model, it was worth more than $12! The same thing happened when I bought a Stanley No. 5 aluminum plane (yes, aluminum) for the same price. But unless you're somewhat familiar with that world, two planes of quite different collectable value can be sitting side by side and most would see little difference between the two.

You will destroy the value of these tools to a collector if you "restore" them. Like many of you, even when I actively collected old tools, I saw little use for having something that I didn't ever forsee using. So, I don't own either of the tools I mentioned above anymore. All I'm suggesting is that you might want to become vaguely familiar with the collecting world. And if you stumble across something for $20 at the flea market that you can sell for $150 . . . you might want to leave it untouched, sell it, buy a good "user" and have a profit for wood, other tools or a nice gift for your spouse. It's not just a $$$$$ thing for all collectors either. Some take quite seriously the idea that they're preserving history and ultimately give their collections away to museums.


----------



## TheKiltedWoodworker

WayneC said:


> *Preparations for restoring a hand plane*
> 
> I've had a couple of 12-14 hour workdays this week and have not had the opportunities for restoring any planes. I decided to take a little time this evening to discuss items that will be needed for the restoration process. The basis for this list comes from the Ernie Conover Video on Reclaiming flea market planes. Hopefully, he will update this video and release on DVD.
> 
> The list is as follows:
> 
> *Lap Plate* - used to lap the sole and sides of a plane
> - Plastic Laminate - speeds the process
> - Heavy Plate Glass - flat surface
> - Contact Cement
> - Laminate Roller
> 
> Lee Valley also sells a glass plate and plastic that adhears to the plate
> Other alternatives include using sandpaper on a granate plate or on a flat surface such as a table saw wing or jointer bed
> 
> *Grit for sole and sides*
> - Emery paper
> - Silicon carbide abrasive 60 Grit (powder)
> 
> I ordered some Grit from lee valley and also found some locally at a lapidary supply house.
> Also you could use 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.
> 
> *Abrasives for cleaning metal parts*
> - Coarse, medium and fine abrasive blocks
> - 120 Grit Emery Paper
> 
> *General cleaning*
> - Scotch bright
> - Alcohol (Denatured)
> 
> *Finishing*
> - White Shellac
> - Orange Shellac
> 
> *Other*
> - Squeeze bottle for alcohol
> - Paraffin
> 
> *Sharpening*
> - Honing guide
> - Angle gauge
> - Water Stones
> - Tormek
> 
> I am using a Lee Valley Honing Guide and Angle gauge, and Norton 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit waterstones. I have a 220 grit or so diamond stone that is used to flatten the water stones. I also think the new Pinnacle sharpening system being sold by woodcraft may be worth a look.
> 
> For setting the primary bevel angle on the plane blade I have a grinding jig from wolverine that integrates with my lathe tool sharpening system. The Tormek is on my "someday" list.
> 
> Please add to or correct this list as you see fit. As there are many ways to approch this problem. Thanks for reading and hopefully, I will get a plane restored and documented this weekend.


I'm a bit of a geek when it comes to some aspects of woodworking, so I've always made sure of exactly what I'm working with before I've done anything, Paul. I don't look at it as "restoring", really, because I'm just cleaning it up to be a user.

And yeah, I'm always on the lookout for those rare planes and wouldn't even consider "cleaning them up".

But that's still great advice for anyone looking to restore tools.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Preparations for restoring a hand plane*
> 
> I've had a couple of 12-14 hour workdays this week and have not had the opportunities for restoring any planes. I decided to take a little time this evening to discuss items that will be needed for the restoration process. The basis for this list comes from the Ernie Conover Video on Reclaiming flea market planes. Hopefully, he will update this video and release on DVD.
> 
> The list is as follows:
> 
> *Lap Plate* - used to lap the sole and sides of a plane
> - Plastic Laminate - speeds the process
> - Heavy Plate Glass - flat surface
> - Contact Cement
> - Laminate Roller
> 
> Lee Valley also sells a glass plate and plastic that adhears to the plate
> Other alternatives include using sandpaper on a granate plate or on a flat surface such as a table saw wing or jointer bed
> 
> *Grit for sole and sides*
> - Emery paper
> - Silicon carbide abrasive 60 Grit (powder)
> 
> I ordered some Grit from lee valley and also found some locally at a lapidary supply house.
> Also you could use 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.
> 
> *Abrasives for cleaning metal parts*
> - Coarse, medium and fine abrasive blocks
> - 120 Grit Emery Paper
> 
> *General cleaning*
> - Scotch bright
> - Alcohol (Denatured)
> 
> *Finishing*
> - White Shellac
> - Orange Shellac
> 
> *Other*
> - Squeeze bottle for alcohol
> - Paraffin
> 
> *Sharpening*
> - Honing guide
> - Angle gauge
> - Water Stones
> - Tormek
> 
> I am using a Lee Valley Honing Guide and Angle gauge, and Norton 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit waterstones. I have a 220 grit or so diamond stone that is used to flatten the water stones. I also think the new Pinnacle sharpening system being sold by woodcraft may be worth a look.
> 
> For setting the primary bevel angle on the plane blade I have a grinding jig from wolverine that integrates with my lathe tool sharpening system. The Tormek is on my "someday" list.
> 
> Please add to or correct this list as you see fit. As there are many ways to approch this problem. Thanks for reading and hopefully, I will get a plane restored and documented this weekend.


Good point Paul, I was planning to discuss the exact issue you raise. You need to be aware of what your working with. I only recommend restoring common planes for use in the shop. The goal is to gain the functionality they provide. You should always check on-line and other references before you begin the restoration process. For example, you would need to think very hard about restoring a Bailey #1 or #2. If the plane is in reasonable shape, it would sell for more than you would have to pay for an equivalent new Lie-Nielson.

When I hunt for planes, I carry a price guide for stanley planes. This helps me determine if the plane is worth buying and also helps me to understand the rarity.

On my "better" planes, you will notice that I am using replacement blades and saving the originals. These planes are typically in good usable shape and do not need restoration.

Also, I am really looking for input, ideas and discussion. All discussion is welcome and appreciated.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Preparations for restoring a hand plane*
> 
> I've had a couple of 12-14 hour workdays this week and have not had the opportunities for restoring any planes. I decided to take a little time this evening to discuss items that will be needed for the restoration process. The basis for this list comes from the Ernie Conover Video on Reclaiming flea market planes. Hopefully, he will update this video and release on DVD.
> 
> The list is as follows:
> 
> *Lap Plate* - used to lap the sole and sides of a plane
> - Plastic Laminate - speeds the process
> - Heavy Plate Glass - flat surface
> - Contact Cement
> - Laminate Roller
> 
> Lee Valley also sells a glass plate and plastic that adhears to the plate
> Other alternatives include using sandpaper on a granate plate or on a flat surface such as a table saw wing or jointer bed
> 
> *Grit for sole and sides*
> - Emery paper
> - Silicon carbide abrasive 60 Grit (powder)
> 
> I ordered some Grit from lee valley and also found some locally at a lapidary supply house.
> Also you could use 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.
> 
> *Abrasives for cleaning metal parts*
> - Coarse, medium and fine abrasive blocks
> - 120 Grit Emery Paper
> 
> *General cleaning*
> - Scotch bright
> - Alcohol (Denatured)
> 
> *Finishing*
> - White Shellac
> - Orange Shellac
> 
> *Other*
> - Squeeze bottle for alcohol
> - Paraffin
> 
> *Sharpening*
> - Honing guide
> - Angle gauge
> - Water Stones
> - Tormek
> 
> I am using a Lee Valley Honing Guide and Angle gauge, and Norton 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit waterstones. I have a 220 grit or so diamond stone that is used to flatten the water stones. I also think the new Pinnacle sharpening system being sold by woodcraft may be worth a look.
> 
> For setting the primary bevel angle on the plane blade I have a grinding jig from wolverine that integrates with my lathe tool sharpening system. The Tormek is on my "someday" list.
> 
> Please add to or correct this list as you see fit. As there are many ways to approch this problem. Thanks for reading and hopefully, I will get a plane restored and documented this weekend.


Ethan, I also have the Veritas Mark II jig and have the angle jig attachment, camber jig and older angle gage in this line. If I did not have a jig, I would really think hard about the Pinnacle, especially given Karson's endorsement.

I will probably buy the Pinnacle Angle gage next time I am at Woodcraft. It appears to be real easy to read.


----------



## Paul

WayneC said:


> *Preparations for restoring a hand plane*
> 
> I've had a couple of 12-14 hour workdays this week and have not had the opportunities for restoring any planes. I decided to take a little time this evening to discuss items that will be needed for the restoration process. The basis for this list comes from the Ernie Conover Video on Reclaiming flea market planes. Hopefully, he will update this video and release on DVD.
> 
> The list is as follows:
> 
> *Lap Plate* - used to lap the sole and sides of a plane
> - Plastic Laminate - speeds the process
> - Heavy Plate Glass - flat surface
> - Contact Cement
> - Laminate Roller
> 
> Lee Valley also sells a glass plate and plastic that adhears to the plate
> Other alternatives include using sandpaper on a granate plate or on a flat surface such as a table saw wing or jointer bed
> 
> *Grit for sole and sides*
> - Emery paper
> - Silicon carbide abrasive 60 Grit (powder)
> 
> I ordered some Grit from lee valley and also found some locally at a lapidary supply house.
> Also you could use 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.
> 
> *Abrasives for cleaning metal parts*
> - Coarse, medium and fine abrasive blocks
> - 120 Grit Emery Paper
> 
> *General cleaning*
> - Scotch bright
> - Alcohol (Denatured)
> 
> *Finishing*
> - White Shellac
> - Orange Shellac
> 
> *Other*
> - Squeeze bottle for alcohol
> - Paraffin
> 
> *Sharpening*
> - Honing guide
> - Angle gauge
> - Water Stones
> - Tormek
> 
> I am using a Lee Valley Honing Guide and Angle gauge, and Norton 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit waterstones. I have a 220 grit or so diamond stone that is used to flatten the water stones. I also think the new Pinnacle sharpening system being sold by woodcraft may be worth a look.
> 
> For setting the primary bevel angle on the plane blade I have a grinding jig from wolverine that integrates with my lathe tool sharpening system. The Tormek is on my "someday" list.
> 
> Please add to or correct this list as you see fit. As there are many ways to approch this problem. Thanks for reading and hopefully, I will get a plane restored and documented this weekend.


Sorry if I jumped the gun on your discussion plans


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Preparations for restoring a hand plane*
> 
> I've had a couple of 12-14 hour workdays this week and have not had the opportunities for restoring any planes. I decided to take a little time this evening to discuss items that will be needed for the restoration process. The basis for this list comes from the Ernie Conover Video on Reclaiming flea market planes. Hopefully, he will update this video and release on DVD.
> 
> The list is as follows:
> 
> *Lap Plate* - used to lap the sole and sides of a plane
> - Plastic Laminate - speeds the process
> - Heavy Plate Glass - flat surface
> - Contact Cement
> - Laminate Roller
> 
> Lee Valley also sells a glass plate and plastic that adhears to the plate
> Other alternatives include using sandpaper on a granate plate or on a flat surface such as a table saw wing or jointer bed
> 
> *Grit for sole and sides*
> - Emery paper
> - Silicon carbide abrasive 60 Grit (powder)
> 
> I ordered some Grit from lee valley and also found some locally at a lapidary supply house.
> Also you could use 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.
> 
> *Abrasives for cleaning metal parts*
> - Coarse, medium and fine abrasive blocks
> - 120 Grit Emery Paper
> 
> *General cleaning*
> - Scotch bright
> - Alcohol (Denatured)
> 
> *Finishing*
> - White Shellac
> - Orange Shellac
> 
> *Other*
> - Squeeze bottle for alcohol
> - Paraffin
> 
> *Sharpening*
> - Honing guide
> - Angle gauge
> - Water Stones
> - Tormek
> 
> I am using a Lee Valley Honing Guide and Angle gauge, and Norton 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit waterstones. I have a 220 grit or so diamond stone that is used to flatten the water stones. I also think the new Pinnacle sharpening system being sold by woodcraft may be worth a look.
> 
> For setting the primary bevel angle on the plane blade I have a grinding jig from wolverine that integrates with my lathe tool sharpening system. The Tormek is on my "someday" list.
> 
> Please add to or correct this list as you see fit. As there are many ways to approch this problem. Thanks for reading and hopefully, I will get a plane restored and documented this weekend.


No worries what so ever. You raised a very valid point. Please feel free to jump in to the fray at any time.


----------



## WayneC

*Selecting Planes for Restoration*

Again I am plagued with long work days. I'm on a dinner break with one more work meeting tonight. Given this, I thought I would continue the discussion from yesterday. I'm really longing for some shop time. There are a number of factors that you should consider before you decide to purchase an old plane and once you have purchased it if you should restore it.

Old hand planes can be found be found in a wide variety of places including garage sales, flea markets, antique stores, ebay, craigslist, etc. One of the things that greatly affects the plane's value (monitary and usefulness) is it's condition. Before you put any money towards an old plane you should consider the following:


Flatness of the sole
Presence of any cracked parts
completeness
Condition of the plane's mouth
Amount of blade that remains
Pitting from rust
Are the parts original to the plane
Condition of any handles

Before I buy I normally ask the price prior to inspecting the plane. Once I understand the price I carefully inspect the plane considering the factors above. I find that if you spend a lot of effort inspecting the plane before asking the price, the price may be higher.

I evaluate if it is better than a compariable plane I may already own. Also, if the plane is very low in cost, I consider the parts value of the plane. For example, does it have a good rosewood tote and nob? Those can be quite expensive to replace. What about the blade/chipbreaker? etc.

As Paul pointed out in my last post another factor you should consider is the value of the plane to collectors. I only recommend restoration of hand planes if you know that they are commonly available. Restoring a rare plane can greatly decrease it's value to a collectior. Always check the value of the plane using ebay and prices guides as a guide. If your unsure hold off until you can validate the value of the plane.

Well, I'm out of time for tonight. Time to talk to some people in Asia about learning management systems…


----------



## David

WayneC said:


> *Selecting Planes for Restoration*
> 
> Again I am plagued with long work days. I'm on a dinner break with one more work meeting tonight. Given this, I thought I would continue the discussion from yesterday. I'm really longing for some shop time. There are a number of factors that you should consider before you decide to purchase an old plane and once you have purchased it if you should restore it.
> 
> Old hand planes can be found be found in a wide variety of places including garage sales, flea markets, antique stores, ebay, craigslist, etc. One of the things that greatly affects the plane's value (monitary and usefulness) is it's condition. Before you put any money towards an old plane you should consider the following:
> 
> 
> Flatness of the sole
> Presence of any cracked parts
> completeness
> Condition of the plane's mouth
> Amount of blade that remains
> Pitting from rust
> Are the parts original to the plane
> Condition of any handles
> 
> Before I buy I normally ask the price prior to inspecting the plane. Once I understand the price I carefully inspect the plane considering the factors above. I find that if you spend a lot of effort inspecting the plane before asking the price, the price may be higher.
> 
> I evaluate if it is better than a compariable plane I may already own. Also, if the plane is very low in cost, I consider the parts value of the plane. For example, does it have a good rosewood tote and nob? Those can be quite expensive to replace. What about the blade/chipbreaker? etc.
> 
> As Paul pointed out in my last post another factor you should consider is the value of the plane to collectors. I only recommend restoration of hand planes if you know that they are commonly available. Restoring a rare plane can greatly decrease it's value to a collectior. Always check the value of the plane using ebay and prices guides as a guide. If your unsure hold off until you can validate the value of the plane.
> 
> Well, I'm out of time for tonight. Time to talk to some people in Asia about learning management systems…


Wayne - Thanks for a great blog entry. I am leaving for vacation soon and have plans to be checking the antique malls and junk stores for old planes.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Selecting Planes for Restoration*
> 
> Again I am plagued with long work days. I'm on a dinner break with one more work meeting tonight. Given this, I thought I would continue the discussion from yesterday. I'm really longing for some shop time. There are a number of factors that you should consider before you decide to purchase an old plane and once you have purchased it if you should restore it.
> 
> Old hand planes can be found be found in a wide variety of places including garage sales, flea markets, antique stores, ebay, craigslist, etc. One of the things that greatly affects the plane's value (monitary and usefulness) is it's condition. Before you put any money towards an old plane you should consider the following:
> 
> 
> Flatness of the sole
> Presence of any cracked parts
> completeness
> Condition of the plane's mouth
> Amount of blade that remains
> Pitting from rust
> Are the parts original to the plane
> Condition of any handles
> 
> Before I buy I normally ask the price prior to inspecting the plane. Once I understand the price I carefully inspect the plane considering the factors above. I find that if you spend a lot of effort inspecting the plane before asking the price, the price may be higher.
> 
> I evaluate if it is better than a compariable plane I may already own. Also, if the plane is very low in cost, I consider the parts value of the plane. For example, does it have a good rosewood tote and nob? Those can be quite expensive to replace. What about the blade/chipbreaker? etc.
> 
> As Paul pointed out in my last post another factor you should consider is the value of the plane to collectors. I only recommend restoration of hand planes if you know that they are commonly available. Restoring a rare plane can greatly decrease it's value to a collectior. Always check the value of the plane using ebay and prices guides as a guide. If your unsure hold off until you can validate the value of the plane.
> 
> Well, I'm out of time for tonight. Time to talk to some people in Asia about learning management systems…


Your most welcome and thanks for the positive feedback. Happy hunting on your vacation.


----------



## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *Selecting Planes for Restoration*
> 
> Again I am plagued with long work days. I'm on a dinner break with one more work meeting tonight. Given this, I thought I would continue the discussion from yesterday. I'm really longing for some shop time. There are a number of factors that you should consider before you decide to purchase an old plane and once you have purchased it if you should restore it.
> 
> Old hand planes can be found be found in a wide variety of places including garage sales, flea markets, antique stores, ebay, craigslist, etc. One of the things that greatly affects the plane's value (monitary and usefulness) is it's condition. Before you put any money towards an old plane you should consider the following:
> 
> 
> Flatness of the sole
> Presence of any cracked parts
> completeness
> Condition of the plane's mouth
> Amount of blade that remains
> Pitting from rust
> Are the parts original to the plane
> Condition of any handles
> 
> Before I buy I normally ask the price prior to inspecting the plane. Once I understand the price I carefully inspect the plane considering the factors above. I find that if you spend a lot of effort inspecting the plane before asking the price, the price may be higher.
> 
> I evaluate if it is better than a compariable plane I may already own. Also, if the plane is very low in cost, I consider the parts value of the plane. For example, does it have a good rosewood tote and nob? Those can be quite expensive to replace. What about the blade/chipbreaker? etc.
> 
> As Paul pointed out in my last post another factor you should consider is the value of the plane to collectors. I only recommend restoration of hand planes if you know that they are commonly available. Restoring a rare plane can greatly decrease it's value to a collectior. Always check the value of the plane using ebay and prices guides as a guide. If your unsure hold off until you can validate the value of the plane.
> 
> Well, I'm out of time for tonight. Time to talk to some people in Asia about learning management systems…


I've had really good luck on ebay. The one exception would be a Stanley 112 that I won. The body and sole are in immaculate shape but the screw that tightens the handle is stripped. I have some ideas but have not fixed it. I've gotten all my planes there as a matter of fact. The price range has varied and been commensurate with the type of plane and shape it was in. I have a couple of #4s (one worker and one in very nice shape); a great #8 (I got it really cheap); a #5 that needed no tuning other than the blade being honed; #90 that was in good shape.

Just be sure you ask many questions before bidding, shop from people who can take apporpriate photos, and don't get carried away in the bidding process. Either bid early with your maximum bid or set up notifications for auctions that are ending in like six hours or less. That is when all the activity will take place.


----------



## Matt

WayneC said:


> *Selecting Planes for Restoration*
> 
> Again I am plagued with long work days. I'm on a dinner break with one more work meeting tonight. Given this, I thought I would continue the discussion from yesterday. I'm really longing for some shop time. There are a number of factors that you should consider before you decide to purchase an old plane and once you have purchased it if you should restore it.
> 
> Old hand planes can be found be found in a wide variety of places including garage sales, flea markets, antique stores, ebay, craigslist, etc. One of the things that greatly affects the plane's value (monitary and usefulness) is it's condition. Before you put any money towards an old plane you should consider the following:
> 
> 
> Flatness of the sole
> Presence of any cracked parts
> completeness
> Condition of the plane's mouth
> Amount of blade that remains
> Pitting from rust
> Are the parts original to the plane
> Condition of any handles
> 
> Before I buy I normally ask the price prior to inspecting the plane. Once I understand the price I carefully inspect the plane considering the factors above. I find that if you spend a lot of effort inspecting the plane before asking the price, the price may be higher.
> 
> I evaluate if it is better than a compariable plane I may already own. Also, if the plane is very low in cost, I consider the parts value of the plane. For example, does it have a good rosewood tote and nob? Those can be quite expensive to replace. What about the blade/chipbreaker? etc.
> 
> As Paul pointed out in my last post another factor you should consider is the value of the plane to collectors. I only recommend restoration of hand planes if you know that they are commonly available. Restoring a rare plane can greatly decrease it's value to a collectior. Always check the value of the plane using ebay and prices guides as a guide. If your unsure hold off until you can validate the value of the plane.
> 
> Well, I'm out of time for tonight. Time to talk to some people in Asia about learning management systems…


Great insight Wayne. When I bought my first used hand plane, still a favorite in my shop by the way. I bought another one with it, luckily at least one of them was worth the money. Your tips are greatly appreciated and in hindsight make total sense. Flea market season is just around the corner here in Michigan so I think I might put together my Wayne pack and head out for a good plane hunt.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Selecting Planes for Restoration*
> 
> Again I am plagued with long work days. I'm on a dinner break with one more work meeting tonight. Given this, I thought I would continue the discussion from yesterday. I'm really longing for some shop time. There are a number of factors that you should consider before you decide to purchase an old plane and once you have purchased it if you should restore it.
> 
> Old hand planes can be found be found in a wide variety of places including garage sales, flea markets, antique stores, ebay, craigslist, etc. One of the things that greatly affects the plane's value (monitary and usefulness) is it's condition. Before you put any money towards an old plane you should consider the following:
> 
> 
> Flatness of the sole
> Presence of any cracked parts
> completeness
> Condition of the plane's mouth
> Amount of blade that remains
> Pitting from rust
> Are the parts original to the plane
> Condition of any handles
> 
> Before I buy I normally ask the price prior to inspecting the plane. Once I understand the price I carefully inspect the plane considering the factors above. I find that if you spend a lot of effort inspecting the plane before asking the price, the price may be higher.
> 
> I evaluate if it is better than a compariable plane I may already own. Also, if the plane is very low in cost, I consider the parts value of the plane. For example, does it have a good rosewood tote and nob? Those can be quite expensive to replace. What about the blade/chipbreaker? etc.
> 
> As Paul pointed out in my last post another factor you should consider is the value of the plane to collectors. I only recommend restoration of hand planes if you know that they are commonly available. Restoring a rare plane can greatly decrease it's value to a collectior. Always check the value of the plane using ebay and prices guides as a guide. If your unsure hold off until you can validate the value of the plane.
> 
> Well, I'm out of time for tonight. Time to talk to some people in Asia about learning management systems…


Good advise Jeff and thanks Matt. I'm still about 7 or 8 podcasts behind Matt. And one or two on the woodwhisper's as well. I'm sure I will be caught up by the time I get to Houston on Monday.


----------



## vanislescotty

WayneC said:


> *Selecting Planes for Restoration*
> 
> Again I am plagued with long work days. I'm on a dinner break with one more work meeting tonight. Given this, I thought I would continue the discussion from yesterday. I'm really longing for some shop time. There are a number of factors that you should consider before you decide to purchase an old plane and once you have purchased it if you should restore it.
> 
> Old hand planes can be found be found in a wide variety of places including garage sales, flea markets, antique stores, ebay, craigslist, etc. One of the things that greatly affects the plane's value (monitary and usefulness) is it's condition. Before you put any money towards an old plane you should consider the following:
> 
> 
> Flatness of the sole
> Presence of any cracked parts
> completeness
> Condition of the plane's mouth
> Amount of blade that remains
> Pitting from rust
> Are the parts original to the plane
> Condition of any handles
> 
> Before I buy I normally ask the price prior to inspecting the plane. Once I understand the price I carefully inspect the plane considering the factors above. I find that if you spend a lot of effort inspecting the plane before asking the price, the price may be higher.
> 
> I evaluate if it is better than a compariable plane I may already own. Also, if the plane is very low in cost, I consider the parts value of the plane. For example, does it have a good rosewood tote and nob? Those can be quite expensive to replace. What about the blade/chipbreaker? etc.
> 
> As Paul pointed out in my last post another factor you should consider is the value of the plane to collectors. I only recommend restoration of hand planes if you know that they are commonly available. Restoring a rare plane can greatly decrease it's value to a collectior. Always check the value of the plane using ebay and prices guides as a guide. If your unsure hold off until you can validate the value of the plane.
> 
> Well, I'm out of time for tonight. Time to talk to some people in Asia about learning management systems…


Good thoughts and I am really enjoying this series. In terms of considering a plane's value to collectors, I think I view it differently. Most all the planes available at Ebay are fairly if not considerably available in number, even when they are an antique. I am looking for planes to use in my shop, not sit on my shelf. I don't have the money to be a collector of planes (or I probably would be). So my view is collectors can get in line just like me and bid on the planes or search the flea markets just like me.

I appreciate history so I am not cavalier about this. I buy older planes for three reasons:
1. To use them
2. Because I can get them cheaper than planes of equvilant quality made today
3. Because older planes are much better than most planes on the mass market today.

I recently bought a Stanley No 28 Transition plane. I plan on using it in my shop. It's in awesome condition and most certainly a desired example for those looking to collect transition planes. I plan to do the least amount I need to in order to make it useable in the shop as my jointer plane, but I will use it.

Of course, if I stumbled onto a plane from the 1600's somehow, I would most certainly treat that as a valuable antique and give it the care it deserves. However, 95+% of the planes out there for bid or buying are out there in number and are truly not 'endangered examples'.

Just my thoughts on the matter. I'm looking forward to reading the rest of this series of articles. Now I'm off to restore that ole No 4 Stanley for shop use.


----------



## WayneC

*End of a long week*

Today marks the end of a long week. So I think I will take it easy tonight. Most days have been in excess of 12 hours. But, I'm still hoping to get something productive done over the weekend. Next week I will be traveling to Houston, so there will be little opportunity for creativity.

Shortly after I arrived home, my daughter returned from the mailbox with my latest eBay purchase. Yes, it happens to be a handplane. Who could guess? I should try out the series capability and post some other items otherwise everyone will think I am only intersted in hand planes.

I thought I would post a few photos since it is a plane you do not see every day. I'm guessing Phil grew up with one of these in his hand. These planes were used in the United Kingdom as a teaching plane. They were designed with large square sides for shooting. It is my intent to use this as my shooting plane until I find a Stanley #9 or purchase a miter plane from Lie-Nielson. This plane appears to be in new condition although it is missing the side handle that normally comes with the plane. If anyone knows the source of one, please point me in the right direction.

I would like to Introduce the *Record Technical Jack Plane T5*.










On each side of the plane there is a hole machined for a handle.










This is it with the lever cap and blade removed.










Here is a view comparing it to a Bedrock 605.










Anyway let me know what you think or if you have some other suggestions for a shooting plane, let me know. I am planning to try the Stanley 5 1/2 for this once I get it restored. David Charlesworth uses one I belive.

Take care until next time.


----------



## David

WayneC said:


> *End of a long week*
> 
> Today marks the end of a long week. So I think I will take it easy tonight. Most days have been in excess of 12 hours. But, I'm still hoping to get something productive done over the weekend. Next week I will be traveling to Houston, so there will be little opportunity for creativity.
> 
> Shortly after I arrived home, my daughter returned from the mailbox with my latest eBay purchase. Yes, it happens to be a handplane. Who could guess? I should try out the series capability and post some other items otherwise everyone will think I am only intersted in hand planes.
> 
> I thought I would post a few photos since it is a plane you do not see every day. I'm guessing Phil grew up with one of these in his hand. These planes were used in the United Kingdom as a teaching plane. They were designed with large square sides for shooting. It is my intent to use this as my shooting plane until I find a Stanley #9 or purchase a miter plane from Lie-Nielson. This plane appears to be in new condition although it is missing the side handle that normally comes with the plane. If anyone knows the source of one, please point me in the right direction.
> 
> I would like to Introduce the *Record Technical Jack Plane T5*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On each side of the plane there is a hole machined for a handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it with the lever cap and blade removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view comparing it to a Bedrock 605.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway let me know what you think or if you have some other suggestions for a shooting plane, let me know. I am planning to try the Stanley 5 1/2 for this once I get it restored. David Charlesworth uses one I belive.
> 
> Take care until next time.


Wayne - Thanks for the great post! Looks like a nice plane and I hope you find a replacement handle (or make one . . . )

Going on vacation next week and I am hoping find a plane or two to bring home. I downloaded you last entry to my PDA to use as a guide.


----------



## BassBully

WayneC said:


> *End of a long week*
> 
> Today marks the end of a long week. So I think I will take it easy tonight. Most days have been in excess of 12 hours. But, I'm still hoping to get something productive done over the weekend. Next week I will be traveling to Houston, so there will be little opportunity for creativity.
> 
> Shortly after I arrived home, my daughter returned from the mailbox with my latest eBay purchase. Yes, it happens to be a handplane. Who could guess? I should try out the series capability and post some other items otherwise everyone will think I am only intersted in hand planes.
> 
> I thought I would post a few photos since it is a plane you do not see every day. I'm guessing Phil grew up with one of these in his hand. These planes were used in the United Kingdom as a teaching plane. They were designed with large square sides for shooting. It is my intent to use this as my shooting plane until I find a Stanley #9 or purchase a miter plane from Lie-Nielson. This plane appears to be in new condition although it is missing the side handle that normally comes with the plane. If anyone knows the source of one, please point me in the right direction.
> 
> I would like to Introduce the *Record Technical Jack Plane T5*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On each side of the plane there is a hole machined for a handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it with the lever cap and blade removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view comparing it to a Bedrock 605.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway let me know what you think or if you have some other suggestions for a shooting plane, let me know. I am planning to try the Stanley 5 1/2 for this once I get it restored. David Charlesworth uses one I belive.
> 
> Take care until next time.


Wayne, I think you should make a handle. You might want find one for authenticity but for now, it might make it more meaningful if you put your finishing touch on it.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *End of a long week*
> 
> Today marks the end of a long week. So I think I will take it easy tonight. Most days have been in excess of 12 hours. But, I'm still hoping to get something productive done over the weekend. Next week I will be traveling to Houston, so there will be little opportunity for creativity.
> 
> Shortly after I arrived home, my daughter returned from the mailbox with my latest eBay purchase. Yes, it happens to be a handplane. Who could guess? I should try out the series capability and post some other items otherwise everyone will think I am only intersted in hand planes.
> 
> I thought I would post a few photos since it is a plane you do not see every day. I'm guessing Phil grew up with one of these in his hand. These planes were used in the United Kingdom as a teaching plane. They were designed with large square sides for shooting. It is my intent to use this as my shooting plane until I find a Stanley #9 or purchase a miter plane from Lie-Nielson. This plane appears to be in new condition although it is missing the side handle that normally comes with the plane. If anyone knows the source of one, please point me in the right direction.
> 
> I would like to Introduce the *Record Technical Jack Plane T5*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On each side of the plane there is a hole machined for a handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it with the lever cap and blade removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view comparing it to a Bedrock 605.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway let me know what you think or if you have some other suggestions for a shooting plane, let me know. I am planning to try the Stanley 5 1/2 for this once I get it restored. David Charlesworth uses one I belive.
> 
> Take care until next time.


Thanks David. Enjoy the trip. There should be lots of good planes to find in the DC area. Have you read through Patrick's Blood and Gore Web site on Stanley planes? If not, it has a wealth of info. Something else you could drop onto your PDA. See if you can find a #18 block plane or a 4 1/2 smoother in your hunt.

I've thougth about making a handle. My biggest concern would be messing up the threads on the body. I would need to ensue I have the correct threading on the rod needed to mount the handle.

Here are some photos of a plane that has the handle. This one was new in the box and sold for over $300 in the UK.


----------



## philsville

WayneC said:


> *End of a long week*
> 
> Today marks the end of a long week. So I think I will take it easy tonight. Most days have been in excess of 12 hours. But, I'm still hoping to get something productive done over the weekend. Next week I will be traveling to Houston, so there will be little opportunity for creativity.
> 
> Shortly after I arrived home, my daughter returned from the mailbox with my latest eBay purchase. Yes, it happens to be a handplane. Who could guess? I should try out the series capability and post some other items otherwise everyone will think I am only intersted in hand planes.
> 
> I thought I would post a few photos since it is a plane you do not see every day. I'm guessing Phil grew up with one of these in his hand. These planes were used in the United Kingdom as a teaching plane. They were designed with large square sides for shooting. It is my intent to use this as my shooting plane until I find a Stanley #9 or purchase a miter plane from Lie-Nielson. This plane appears to be in new condition although it is missing the side handle that normally comes with the plane. If anyone knows the source of one, please point me in the right direction.
> 
> I would like to Introduce the *Record Technical Jack Plane T5*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On each side of the plane there is a hole machined for a handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it with the lever cap and blade removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view comparing it to a Bedrock 605.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway let me know what you think or if you have some other suggestions for a shooting plane, let me know. I am planning to try the Stanley 5 1/2 for this once I get it restored. David Charlesworth uses one I belive.
> 
> Take care until next time.


Wayne
A nice plane! As you say, they were used in schools and colleges and were aimed at student users. The extra large sides of the plane are handy when using the plane on the shooting board- they give extra support and help prevent tipping (a shooting board no-no)
I'll keep my eyes open for a knob - if I come across one I'll let you know.
And no, I don't actually own a T5. They are fairly common on this side of the water, though 
As to a perfect shooting plane, need I mention the #9? I have the L-N version and it is a gem. Pricey though…. Another great plane is the Veritas low angle jack - it has finger grips in the side which make it easy to hold.
The 5 1/2 is a great plane - I prefer the extra width and weight. After using it the #5 feels puny 
Best regards
Phil


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *End of a long week*
> 
> Today marks the end of a long week. So I think I will take it easy tonight. Most days have been in excess of 12 hours. But, I'm still hoping to get something productive done over the weekend. Next week I will be traveling to Houston, so there will be little opportunity for creativity.
> 
> Shortly after I arrived home, my daughter returned from the mailbox with my latest eBay purchase. Yes, it happens to be a handplane. Who could guess? I should try out the series capability and post some other items otherwise everyone will think I am only intersted in hand planes.
> 
> I thought I would post a few photos since it is a plane you do not see every day. I'm guessing Phil grew up with one of these in his hand. These planes were used in the United Kingdom as a teaching plane. They were designed with large square sides for shooting. It is my intent to use this as my shooting plane until I find a Stanley #9 or purchase a miter plane from Lie-Nielson. This plane appears to be in new condition although it is missing the side handle that normally comes with the plane. If anyone knows the source of one, please point me in the right direction.
> 
> I would like to Introduce the *Record Technical Jack Plane T5*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On each side of the plane there is a hole machined for a handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is it with the lever cap and blade removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view comparing it to a Bedrock 605.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway let me know what you think or if you have some other suggestions for a shooting plane, let me know. I am planning to try the Stanley 5 1/2 for this once I get it restored. David Charlesworth uses one I belive.
> 
> Take care until next time.


I keep hoping to run across a Stanley #9 at a flea market or something. Probably a pipe dream. I'm guessing the Lie-Nielson Miter Plane will show up in my shop one of these days. I just have to get past the price tag thing…

For those of you interested in shooting boards, the Lie-Nielson link above has the PDF plans for a nice shooting board (the one used by David Charlesworth in his video) on it.


----------



## WayneC

*Plane Blades*

This morning I got up, threw my tool hunting pack and my son in the car and headed out to see what would come our way. We made our way across town to the local Woodcraft store, stopping at a few yard sales along the way. We did not find much of interest other than a trashed yankee drill that happend to have all of its original drill bits in its storage area. A buck later and we were on our way.

At Woodcraft, I purchased a Hock blade and chip breaker for use the Record T5 hand plane described in my last post.  This got me thinking about blades.

I view my blades and planes independently. I have a set of hock blades that I keep in the planes I am using. I retain and lable the original blade that comes with the plane and if I upgrade or change planes, I return the original blade to the plane. The Hock blade is then transferred to the new plane. For example, the Record T5 plane's blade has never been sharpened. When I am ready to upgrade to a new shooting plane, I can move the blade to another plane and reinstall the unused record blade.

I belive in using high quality blades. They hold an edge longer and they are one of the key components of the plane. I belive this justifys the cost. However, used plane blades are easy to find and to put into service and this approach can be used without having to make a significant investment in blades. If you sharpen the blades correctly and tune up the chip breaker. You should be able to get good results. There are many videos and books that describe how to do this. Many of the sources listed in my earlier posts in this series have this information if you need it.

After leaving Woodcraft, we stopped at a local antique store. No planes, but I did find a nice set of drill bits for use in a brace. I'm sure there are a few Galoots out there who would be interested.

Here are the pictures of the drill bits…



















And a couple of my braces for grins










I hope everyone is having a good and productive evening. Take care.


----------



## dennis

WayneC said:


> *Plane Blades*
> 
> This morning I got up, threw my tool hunting pack and my son in the car and headed out to see what would come our way. We made our way across town to the local Woodcraft store, stopping at a few yard sales along the way. We did not find much of interest other than a trashed yankee drill that happend to have all of its original drill bits in its storage area. A buck later and we were on our way.
> 
> At Woodcraft, I purchased a Hock blade and chip breaker for use the Record T5 hand plane described in my last post. This got me thinking about blades.
> 
> I view my blades and planes independently. I have a set of hock blades that I keep in the planes I am using. I retain and lable the original blade that comes with the plane and if I upgrade or change planes, I return the original blade to the plane. The Hock blade is then transferred to the new plane. For example, the Record T5 plane's blade has never been sharpened. When I am ready to upgrade to a new shooting plane, I can move the blade to another plane and reinstall the unused record blade.
> 
> I belive in using high quality blades. They hold an edge longer and they are one of the key components of the plane. I belive this justifys the cost. However, used plane blades are easy to find and to put into service and this approach can be used without having to make a significant investment in blades. If you sharpen the blades correctly and tune up the chip breaker. You should be able to get good results. There are many videos and books that describe how to do this. Many of the sources listed in my earlier posts in this series have this information if you need it.
> 
> After leaving Woodcraft, we stopped at a local antique store. No planes, but I did find a nice set of drill bits for use in a brace. I'm sure there are a few Galoots out there who would be interested.
> 
> Here are the pictures of the drill bits…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a couple of my braces for grins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope everyone is having a good and productive evening. Take care.


Nice cordless drill.


----------



## WayneC

*Wondering if I should continue this thread*

I'm sitting in a hotel room this evening on a week long business trip to Houston. I've been looking around on the web quite a bit and see lots of information on this topic available. Matt is doing a good job of covering planes in his podcast, etc.

I'm thinking of just showing the finished results of the restoration of the different bench planes in the project section and moving on to other topics. Any thoughts or feedback?

Anyway, have a good week, have fun and be productive.


----------



## David

WayneC said:


> *Wondering if I should continue this thread*
> 
> I'm sitting in a hotel room this evening on a week long business trip to Houston. I've been looking around on the web quite a bit and see lots of information on this topic available. Matt is doing a good job of covering planes in his podcast, etc.
> 
> I'm thinking of just showing the finished results of the restoration of the different bench planes in the project section and moving on to other topics. Any thoughts or feedback?
> 
> Anyway, have a good week, have fun and be productive.


I think you should continue with the thead. Your information on plane restoration is complementary with the information Matt is covering in his podcast series.


----------



## gizmodyne

WayneC said:


> *Wondering if I should continue this thread*
> 
> I'm sitting in a hotel room this evening on a week long business trip to Houston. I've been looking around on the web quite a bit and see lots of information on this topic available. Matt is doing a good job of covering planes in his podcast, etc.
> 
> I'm thinking of just showing the finished results of the restoration of the different bench planes in the project section and moving on to other topics. Any thoughts or feedback?
> 
> Anyway, have a good week, have fun and be productive.


Agreed.-Plus, I think that a blog can be just a journal for your own wants. If you want to write it go for it.


----------



## dennis

WayneC said:


> *Wondering if I should continue this thread*
> 
> I'm sitting in a hotel room this evening on a week long business trip to Houston. I've been looking around on the web quite a bit and see lots of information on this topic available. Matt is doing a good job of covering planes in his podcast, etc.
> 
> I'm thinking of just showing the finished results of the restoration of the different bench planes in the project section and moving on to other topics. Any thoughts or feedback?
> 
> Anyway, have a good week, have fun and be productive.


I guess the real question is have you learned anything? I have very little interest in planes so just about every thing I know I've read on the lumberjocks blogs. So what happens when I find myself at a garage sale with a #5 dewhickle rubbing it with lust…it just might rub off.


----------



## Matt

WayneC said:


> *Wondering if I should continue this thread*
> 
> I'm sitting in a hotel room this evening on a week long business trip to Houston. I've been looking around on the web quite a bit and see lots of information on this topic available. Matt is doing a good job of covering planes in his podcast, etc.
> 
> I'm thinking of just showing the finished results of the restoration of the different bench planes in the project section and moving on to other topics. Any thoughts or feedback?
> 
> Anyway, have a good week, have fun and be productive.


Wayne, where am I going to get my reference sources for this series on hand planes? I say keep it alive if you're enjoying it. I know I am!


----------



## TheKiltedWoodworker

WayneC said:


> *Wondering if I should continue this thread*
> 
> I'm sitting in a hotel room this evening on a week long business trip to Houston. I've been looking around on the web quite a bit and see lots of information on this topic available. Matt is doing a good job of covering planes in his podcast, etc.
> 
> I'm thinking of just showing the finished results of the restoration of the different bench planes in the project section and moving on to other topics. Any thoughts or feedback?
> 
> Anyway, have a good week, have fun and be productive.


I'm with the Giz. Blogs are just as much for you as anyone else, if not more.

I have to admit - I write about things I think others will enjoy reading, but… I mostly write about things I enjoy writing about!


----------



## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *Wondering if I should continue this thread*
> 
> I'm sitting in a hotel room this evening on a week long business trip to Houston. I've been looking around on the web quite a bit and see lots of information on this topic available. Matt is doing a good job of covering planes in his podcast, etc.
> 
> I'm thinking of just showing the finished results of the restoration of the different bench planes in the project section and moving on to other topics. Any thoughts or feedback?
> 
> Anyway, have a good week, have fun and be productive.


Keep it up, Wayne. I'll always read them!

Developing a proficiency and using my hand tools more is a huge goal. I'd love to get to the point where I can say I only use sand paper about 10 - 15% of the time.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Wondering if I should continue this thread*
> 
> I'm sitting in a hotel room this evening on a week long business trip to Houston. I've been looking around on the web quite a bit and see lots of information on this topic available. Matt is doing a good job of covering planes in his podcast, etc.
> 
> I'm thinking of just showing the finished results of the restoration of the different bench planes in the project section and moving on to other topics. Any thoughts or feedback?
> 
> Anyway, have a good week, have fun and be productive.


Thanks all for the encouragement. I will keep on.

Caliper, have you checked out Phil's hand tool use in the detailed view if how he created his Jack plane .


----------



## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *Wondering if I should continue this thread*
> 
> I'm sitting in a hotel room this evening on a week long business trip to Houston. I've been looking around on the web quite a bit and see lots of information on this topic available. Matt is doing a good job of covering planes in his podcast, etc.
> 
> I'm thinking of just showing the finished results of the restoration of the different bench planes in the project section and moving on to other topics. Any thoughts or feedback?
> 
> Anyway, have a good week, have fun and be productive.


Just checked it out, Wayne. That's pretty slick. I've read about making your own but felt tht was a few years down the road. He does a fine job of making it seem relatively simple though. Thanks for the link.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Wondering if I should continue this thread*
> 
> I'm sitting in a hotel room this evening on a week long business trip to Houston. I've been looking around on the web quite a bit and see lots of information on this topic available. Matt is doing a good job of covering planes in his podcast, etc.
> 
> I'm thinking of just showing the finished results of the restoration of the different bench planes in the project section and moving on to other topics. Any thoughts or feedback?
> 
> Anyway, have a good week, have fun and be productive.


Your welcome. Hock sells a plane making kit . I'm thinking that is where I will start when I get ready to make a plane. There is also a great book on the subject by David Finck.


----------



## JohnGray

WayneC said:


> *Wondering if I should continue this thread*
> 
> I'm sitting in a hotel room this evening on a week long business trip to Houston. I've been looking around on the web quite a bit and see lots of information on this topic available. Matt is doing a good job of covering planes in his podcast, etc.
> 
> I'm thinking of just showing the finished results of the restoration of the different bench planes in the project section and moving on to other topics. Any thoughts or feedback?
> 
> Anyway, have a good week, have fun and be productive.


Keep up the blog it is very informative and a good read!!!!


----------



## WayneC

*Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before *

This is a Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Bench Plane that I picked up a few weeks back at a local antique street sale. It was better than the one that I had set aside to restore. (I'll save the other one for Obi if he wants it) The purchase price for this plane was $20.

The first step in the restoration process is to determine the type of the plane and condition of the plane. To do this I looked up the plane using the stanley bench plane dating page. using information from the plane.


 Blade is marked with a patent date of April 19 '92 - Approprate for the plane
 Lateral Adustement is is marked Stanley
 Body of Plane as 2 patent dates March 25 '02

This places the age of the plane to approximately 1907. Right at 100 years old.










Next to inspect the general condition of the plane.


The japanning appears to be fully intact
Both handles are cracked (The rear may be a replacement and had 2 modern washers used to keep it tight)
The mouth is in good condition
No cracks anywhere
Rust and surface grime everywhere
Oily Sawdust under frog
The blade has been sharpened with a slight camber. Plenty of blade remaining.

Below are more pictures

*Side view*










*Note the oily wood shavings*










*Fully Apart*










I'll post the after pictures once I get'er done.


----------



## Wooder

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before *
> 
> This is a Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Bench Plane that I picked up a few weeks back at a local antique street sale. It was better than the one that I had set aside to restore. (I'll save the other one for Obi if he wants it) The purchase price for this plane was $20.
> 
> The first step in the restoration process is to determine the type of the plane and condition of the plane. To do this I looked up the plane using the stanley bench plane dating page. using information from the plane.
> 
> 
> Blade is marked with a patent date of April 19 '92 - Approprate for the plane
> Lateral Adustement is is marked Stanley
> Body of Plane as 2 patent dates March 25 '02
> 
> This places the age of the plane to approximately 1907. Right at 100 years old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to inspect the general condition of the plane.
> 
> 
> The japanning appears to be fully intact
> Both handles are cracked (The rear may be a replacement and had 2 modern washers used to keep it tight)
> The mouth is in good condition
> No cracks anywhere
> Rust and surface grime everywhere
> Oily Sawdust under frog
> The blade has been sharpened with a slight camber. Plenty of blade remaining.
> 
> Below are more pictures
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note the oily wood shavings*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fully Apart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post the after pictures once I get'er done.


I have a #3 that seems to be a type 10 or 11. Has ids of both. Was told Stanley finished out runs sometimes with parts on hand. Or could be a mixed part plane, someone else did. Not sure.
But am sure it's in great shape and well worth the time it will take to re-hab it. 
So glad to see a knuckle dragger here…lol
Love your posts and will use the info for sure.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before *
> 
> This is a Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Bench Plane that I picked up a few weeks back at a local antique street sale. It was better than the one that I had set aside to restore. (I'll save the other one for Obi if he wants it) The purchase price for this plane was $20.
> 
> The first step in the restoration process is to determine the type of the plane and condition of the plane. To do this I looked up the plane using the stanley bench plane dating page. using information from the plane.
> 
> 
> Blade is marked with a patent date of April 19 '92 - Approprate for the plane
> Lateral Adustement is is marked Stanley
> Body of Plane as 2 patent dates March 25 '02
> 
> This places the age of the plane to approximately 1907. Right at 100 years old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to inspect the general condition of the plane.
> 
> 
> The japanning appears to be fully intact
> Both handles are cracked (The rear may be a replacement and had 2 modern washers used to keep it tight)
> The mouth is in good condition
> No cracks anywhere
> Rust and surface grime everywhere
> Oily Sawdust under frog
> The blade has been sharpened with a slight camber. Plenty of blade remaining.
> 
> Below are more pictures
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note the oily wood shavings*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fully Apart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post the after pictures once I get'er done.


Thanks Jimmy. This one is similar, It has a blade found on the type 9 plane. Some references indicate the screw to position the frog was added in type 9 and some in type 10. I belive the use of parts was common.


----------



## TheKiltedWoodworker

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before *
> 
> This is a Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Bench Plane that I picked up a few weeks back at a local antique street sale. It was better than the one that I had set aside to restore. (I'll save the other one for Obi if he wants it) The purchase price for this plane was $20.
> 
> The first step in the restoration process is to determine the type of the plane and condition of the plane. To do this I looked up the plane using the stanley bench plane dating page. using information from the plane.
> 
> 
> Blade is marked with a patent date of April 19 '92 - Approprate for the plane
> Lateral Adustement is is marked Stanley
> Body of Plane as 2 patent dates March 25 '02
> 
> This places the age of the plane to approximately 1907. Right at 100 years old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to inspect the general condition of the plane.
> 
> 
> The japanning appears to be fully intact
> Both handles are cracked (The rear may be a replacement and had 2 modern washers used to keep it tight)
> The mouth is in good condition
> No cracks anywhere
> Rust and surface grime everywhere
> Oily Sawdust under frog
> The blade has been sharpened with a slight camber. Plenty of blade remaining.
> 
> Below are more pictures
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note the oily wood shavings*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Fully Apart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post the after pictures once I get'er done.


Something to always keep in mind - Stanley never really kept track of production numbers. If they had the parts from an older run lying around, they'd probably just use them.

For anyone just starting out w/refurbishing a hand plane, the patent date doesn't necessarily tell you how old it is; it tells you how old it isn't. (The plane can't be older than the patent date, but it could very easily have been made several years after the patent date.)


----------



## WayneC

*A couple of new candidates*

There is a monthly antique sale here in town. I went down there with the family this morning to look around. I've got some pictures to share of what I got today and will add these at the end of the entry. I'm sharing primarily because David asked to see what I got.

I was looking for a #18 block plane, but the dealer who normally has a large selection of planes was not here today. So no #18 today. The number of dealers was a little less than normal today. I'm assuming this was because of the Easter holiday.

Also, I was on the hunt for a router plane. I saw a Stanley and a Miller-Falls, but neither was good enough for the asking price.

The Antique Fair is located underneath one of the local freeways. During the week it serves as a parking lot for California State employees. About half way through the antique fair, my daugher came up to me and told me that a Raccoon was hanging off of the freeway overpass. I walked over to where she indicated and sure enough a raccoon was there. He was about 30 feet up above the pavement and with 12 lanes of freeway behind him. The highway patrol, fire departement, animal control, and at least 2 of the local TV stations had arrived. The firemen (about 6 of them) were deployed below the Raccoon with a large blanket. There was a very large crowd below watching. Animal control went up onto the freeway and attempted to get a noose on him. He ran around the person and Jumped. Unfortunately, the firemen were not able to get over quickly enough and he hit very hard. The crowd was stunned and the fire department went over and covered him with the blanket. People were crying. It was very depressing.

After this, I slowly continued on my way. About 5 minutes later my daughter came back and told me that they had put the raccoon in a cage and he was now awake and looking at people. Hopefully things will work out for him. But things were looking up. I'll check the news tonight and see if there is an update.

Anyway, I found the following items today:










Box of files and small tools $8
Stanley 5c handplane $12
Old Screwdriver $12
Stanley 12 1/2 Scraper Plane $20
Sargent Scraper $20
xacto plane $6

I passed 6 jorgensen 48" or so bar clamps for $50 and they were gone when I came back. I have plenty of clamps, but you can always use more.

Here is a look at the files. Lots of handles and stuff. Most are Nicholson files. : ^ )










I plan to restore the 12 1/2. I need to replace the rosewood that goes on the sole of the plane. I will also need to get a blade for it. Probably will invest in a hock blade. The handle on it is also a replacement. I'm thinking about turning a rosewood handle for it. Should be a fun restoration.




























I would not normally buy another #5, but got drawn into this 5c. Japanning is Ok. Both handles have damage. It has the wrong lever cap. Everything else is good. The main reason I bought it, is that it has a nice Bedrock lever cap. Figured for $15, I could not go wrong.




























This is a Sargent #52 Scraper. It is a very nice, solid tool.



















I'm going through a phase with these old style screwdrivers. Putting together as set of various sizes of these. They work well with the screws on the planes. May do some shopping on the UK Ebay site. Seem to be more common there. Probably should raid Phil's shop. : ^ )










This is a Xacto plane. I'm still deciding if I will keep it or give it to a neibour or hang on to it










Happy Easter!!!


----------



## Karson

WayneC said:


> *A couple of new candidates*
> 
> There is a monthly antique sale here in town. I went down there with the family this morning to look around. I've got some pictures to share of what I got today and will add these at the end of the entry. I'm sharing primarily because David asked to see what I got.
> 
> I was looking for a #18 block plane, but the dealer who normally has a large selection of planes was not here today. So no #18 today. The number of dealers was a little less than normal today. I'm assuming this was because of the Easter holiday.
> 
> Also, I was on the hunt for a router plane. I saw a Stanley and a Miller-Falls, but neither was good enough for the asking price.
> 
> The Antique Fair is located underneath one of the local freeways. During the week it serves as a parking lot for California State employees. About half way through the antique fair, my daugher came up to me and told me that a Raccoon was hanging off of the freeway overpass. I walked over to where she indicated and sure enough a raccoon was there. He was about 30 feet up above the pavement and with 12 lanes of freeway behind him. The highway patrol, fire departement, animal control, and at least 2 of the local TV stations had arrived. The firemen (about 6 of them) were deployed below the Raccoon with a large blanket. There was a very large crowd below watching. Animal control went up onto the freeway and attempted to get a noose on him. He ran around the person and Jumped. Unfortunately, the firemen were not able to get over quickly enough and he hit very hard. The crowd was stunned and the fire department went over and covered him with the blanket. People were crying. It was very depressing.
> 
> After this, I slowly continued on my way. About 5 minutes later my daughter came back and told me that they had put the raccoon in a cage and he was now awake and looking at people. Hopefully things will work out for him. But things were looking up. I'll check the news tonight and see if there is an update.
> 
> Anyway, I found the following items today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box of files and small tools $8
> Stanley 5c handplane $12
> Old Screwdriver $12
> Stanley 12 1/2 Scraper Plane $20
> Sargent Scraper $20
> xacto plane $6
> 
> I passed 6 jorgensen 48" or so bar clamps for $50 and they were gone when I came back. I have plenty of clamps, but you can always use more.
> 
> Here is a look at the files. Lots of handles and stuff. Most are Nicholson files. : ^ )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to restore the 12 1/2. I need to replace the rosewood that goes on the sole of the plane. I will also need to get a blade for it. Probably will invest in a hock blade. The handle on it is also a replacement. I'm thinking about turning a rosewood handle for it. Should be a fun restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would not normally buy another #5, but got drawn into this 5c. Japanning is Ok. Both handles have damage. It has the wrong lever cap. Everything else is good. The main reason I bought it, is that it has a nice Bedrock lever cap. Figured for $15, I could not go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Sargent #52 Scraper. It is a very nice, solid tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going through a phase with these old style screwdrivers. Putting together as set of various sizes of these. They work well with the screws on the planes. May do some shopping on the UK Ebay site. Seem to be more common there. Probably should raid Phil's shop. : ^ )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Xacto plane. I'm still deciding if I will keep it or give it to a neibour or hang on to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy Easter!!!


A willing seller and a willing buyer make for a happy couple. Good stash. Hope you wern't on the farside of the parking lot and had to carry everything.


----------



## MsDebbieP

WayneC said:


> *A couple of new candidates*
> 
> There is a monthly antique sale here in town. I went down there with the family this morning to look around. I've got some pictures to share of what I got today and will add these at the end of the entry. I'm sharing primarily because David asked to see what I got.
> 
> I was looking for a #18 block plane, but the dealer who normally has a large selection of planes was not here today. So no #18 today. The number of dealers was a little less than normal today. I'm assuming this was because of the Easter holiday.
> 
> Also, I was on the hunt for a router plane. I saw a Stanley and a Miller-Falls, but neither was good enough for the asking price.
> 
> The Antique Fair is located underneath one of the local freeways. During the week it serves as a parking lot for California State employees. About half way through the antique fair, my daugher came up to me and told me that a Raccoon was hanging off of the freeway overpass. I walked over to where she indicated and sure enough a raccoon was there. He was about 30 feet up above the pavement and with 12 lanes of freeway behind him. The highway patrol, fire departement, animal control, and at least 2 of the local TV stations had arrived. The firemen (about 6 of them) were deployed below the Raccoon with a large blanket. There was a very large crowd below watching. Animal control went up onto the freeway and attempted to get a noose on him. He ran around the person and Jumped. Unfortunately, the firemen were not able to get over quickly enough and he hit very hard. The crowd was stunned and the fire department went over and covered him with the blanket. People were crying. It was very depressing.
> 
> After this, I slowly continued on my way. About 5 minutes later my daughter came back and told me that they had put the raccoon in a cage and he was now awake and looking at people. Hopefully things will work out for him. But things were looking up. I'll check the news tonight and see if there is an update.
> 
> Anyway, I found the following items today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box of files and small tools $8
> Stanley 5c handplane $12
> Old Screwdriver $12
> Stanley 12 1/2 Scraper Plane $20
> Sargent Scraper $20
> xacto plane $6
> 
> I passed 6 jorgensen 48" or so bar clamps for $50 and they were gone when I came back. I have plenty of clamps, but you can always use more.
> 
> Here is a look at the files. Lots of handles and stuff. Most are Nicholson files. : ^ )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to restore the 12 1/2. I need to replace the rosewood that goes on the sole of the plane. I will also need to get a blade for it. Probably will invest in a hock blade. The handle on it is also a replacement. I'm thinking about turning a rosewood handle for it. Should be a fun restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would not normally buy another #5, but got drawn into this 5c. Japanning is Ok. Both handles have damage. It has the wrong lever cap. Everything else is good. The main reason I bought it, is that it has a nice Bedrock lever cap. Figured for $15, I could not go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Sargent #52 Scraper. It is a very nice, solid tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going through a phase with these old style screwdrivers. Putting together as set of various sizes of these. They work well with the screws on the planes. May do some shopping on the UK Ebay site. Seem to be more common there. Probably should raid Phil's shop. : ^ )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Xacto plane. I'm still deciding if I will keep it or give it to a neibour or hang on to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy Easter!!!


those raccoons can take a bad fall. I'm sure he is ok. Quite the adventure though. Poor little guy 

That's quite the haul of files!!


----------



## Wooder

WayneC said:


> *A couple of new candidates*
> 
> There is a monthly antique sale here in town. I went down there with the family this morning to look around. I've got some pictures to share of what I got today and will add these at the end of the entry. I'm sharing primarily because David asked to see what I got.
> 
> I was looking for a #18 block plane, but the dealer who normally has a large selection of planes was not here today. So no #18 today. The number of dealers was a little less than normal today. I'm assuming this was because of the Easter holiday.
> 
> Also, I was on the hunt for a router plane. I saw a Stanley and a Miller-Falls, but neither was good enough for the asking price.
> 
> The Antique Fair is located underneath one of the local freeways. During the week it serves as a parking lot for California State employees. About half way through the antique fair, my daugher came up to me and told me that a Raccoon was hanging off of the freeway overpass. I walked over to where she indicated and sure enough a raccoon was there. He was about 30 feet up above the pavement and with 12 lanes of freeway behind him. The highway patrol, fire departement, animal control, and at least 2 of the local TV stations had arrived. The firemen (about 6 of them) were deployed below the Raccoon with a large blanket. There was a very large crowd below watching. Animal control went up onto the freeway and attempted to get a noose on him. He ran around the person and Jumped. Unfortunately, the firemen were not able to get over quickly enough and he hit very hard. The crowd was stunned and the fire department went over and covered him with the blanket. People were crying. It was very depressing.
> 
> After this, I slowly continued on my way. About 5 minutes later my daughter came back and told me that they had put the raccoon in a cage and he was now awake and looking at people. Hopefully things will work out for him. But things were looking up. I'll check the news tonight and see if there is an update.
> 
> Anyway, I found the following items today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box of files and small tools $8
> Stanley 5c handplane $12
> Old Screwdriver $12
> Stanley 12 1/2 Scraper Plane $20
> Sargent Scraper $20
> xacto plane $6
> 
> I passed 6 jorgensen 48" or so bar clamps for $50 and they were gone when I came back. I have plenty of clamps, but you can always use more.
> 
> Here is a look at the files. Lots of handles and stuff. Most are Nicholson files. : ^ )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to restore the 12 1/2. I need to replace the rosewood that goes on the sole of the plane. I will also need to get a blade for it. Probably will invest in a hock blade. The handle on it is also a replacement. I'm thinking about turning a rosewood handle for it. Should be a fun restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would not normally buy another #5, but got drawn into this 5c. Japanning is Ok. Both handles have damage. It has the wrong lever cap. Everything else is good. The main reason I bought it, is that it has a nice Bedrock lever cap. Figured for $15, I could not go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Sargent #52 Scraper. It is a very nice, solid tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going through a phase with these old style screwdrivers. Putting together as set of various sizes of these. They work well with the screws on the planes. May do some shopping on the UK Ebay site. Seem to be more common there. Probably should raid Phil's shop. : ^ )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Xacto plane. I'm still deciding if I will keep it or give it to a neibour or hang on to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy Easter!!!


Very nice haul Wayne. The files always come in handy, for sure. Great deals on all!

Enjoy!


----------



## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *A couple of new candidates*
> 
> There is a monthly antique sale here in town. I went down there with the family this morning to look around. I've got some pictures to share of what I got today and will add these at the end of the entry. I'm sharing primarily because David asked to see what I got.
> 
> I was looking for a #18 block plane, but the dealer who normally has a large selection of planes was not here today. So no #18 today. The number of dealers was a little less than normal today. I'm assuming this was because of the Easter holiday.
> 
> Also, I was on the hunt for a router plane. I saw a Stanley and a Miller-Falls, but neither was good enough for the asking price.
> 
> The Antique Fair is located underneath one of the local freeways. During the week it serves as a parking lot for California State employees. About half way through the antique fair, my daugher came up to me and told me that a Raccoon was hanging off of the freeway overpass. I walked over to where she indicated and sure enough a raccoon was there. He was about 30 feet up above the pavement and with 12 lanes of freeway behind him. The highway patrol, fire departement, animal control, and at least 2 of the local TV stations had arrived. The firemen (about 6 of them) were deployed below the Raccoon with a large blanket. There was a very large crowd below watching. Animal control went up onto the freeway and attempted to get a noose on him. He ran around the person and Jumped. Unfortunately, the firemen were not able to get over quickly enough and he hit very hard. The crowd was stunned and the fire department went over and covered him with the blanket. People were crying. It was very depressing.
> 
> After this, I slowly continued on my way. About 5 minutes later my daughter came back and told me that they had put the raccoon in a cage and he was now awake and looking at people. Hopefully things will work out for him. But things were looking up. I'll check the news tonight and see if there is an update.
> 
> Anyway, I found the following items today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box of files and small tools $8
> Stanley 5c handplane $12
> Old Screwdriver $12
> Stanley 12 1/2 Scraper Plane $20
> Sargent Scraper $20
> xacto plane $6
> 
> I passed 6 jorgensen 48" or so bar clamps for $50 and they were gone when I came back. I have plenty of clamps, but you can always use more.
> 
> Here is a look at the files. Lots of handles and stuff. Most are Nicholson files. : ^ )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to restore the 12 1/2. I need to replace the rosewood that goes on the sole of the plane. I will also need to get a blade for it. Probably will invest in a hock blade. The handle on it is also a replacement. I'm thinking about turning a rosewood handle for it. Should be a fun restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would not normally buy another #5, but got drawn into this 5c. Japanning is Ok. Both handles have damage. It has the wrong lever cap. Everything else is good. The main reason I bought it, is that it has a nice Bedrock lever cap. Figured for $15, I could not go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Sargent #52 Scraper. It is a very nice, solid tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going through a phase with these old style screwdrivers. Putting together as set of various sizes of these. They work well with the screws on the planes. May do some shopping on the UK Ebay site. Seem to be more common there. Probably should raid Phil's shop. : ^ )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Xacto plane. I'm still deciding if I will keep it or give it to a neibour or hang on to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy Easter!!!


Hey Wayne. That #52 looks pretty sweet. I've never seen one of those. Is it meant to be used as a two-handed tool or is the mass of metal at the top there for weight (instead of holding)?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *A couple of new candidates*
> 
> There is a monthly antique sale here in town. I went down there with the family this morning to look around. I've got some pictures to share of what I got today and will add these at the end of the entry. I'm sharing primarily because David asked to see what I got.
> 
> I was looking for a #18 block plane, but the dealer who normally has a large selection of planes was not here today. So no #18 today. The number of dealers was a little less than normal today. I'm assuming this was because of the Easter holiday.
> 
> Also, I was on the hunt for a router plane. I saw a Stanley and a Miller-Falls, but neither was good enough for the asking price.
> 
> The Antique Fair is located underneath one of the local freeways. During the week it serves as a parking lot for California State employees. About half way through the antique fair, my daugher came up to me and told me that a Raccoon was hanging off of the freeway overpass. I walked over to where she indicated and sure enough a raccoon was there. He was about 30 feet up above the pavement and with 12 lanes of freeway behind him. The highway patrol, fire departement, animal control, and at least 2 of the local TV stations had arrived. The firemen (about 6 of them) were deployed below the Raccoon with a large blanket. There was a very large crowd below watching. Animal control went up onto the freeway and attempted to get a noose on him. He ran around the person and Jumped. Unfortunately, the firemen were not able to get over quickly enough and he hit very hard. The crowd was stunned and the fire department went over and covered him with the blanket. People were crying. It was very depressing.
> 
> After this, I slowly continued on my way. About 5 minutes later my daughter came back and told me that they had put the raccoon in a cage and he was now awake and looking at people. Hopefully things will work out for him. But things were looking up. I'll check the news tonight and see if there is an update.
> 
> Anyway, I found the following items today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box of files and small tools $8
> Stanley 5c handplane $12
> Old Screwdriver $12
> Stanley 12 1/2 Scraper Plane $20
> Sargent Scraper $20
> xacto plane $6
> 
> I passed 6 jorgensen 48" or so bar clamps for $50 and they were gone when I came back. I have plenty of clamps, but you can always use more.
> 
> Here is a look at the files. Lots of handles and stuff. Most are Nicholson files. : ^ )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to restore the 12 1/2. I need to replace the rosewood that goes on the sole of the plane. I will also need to get a blade for it. Probably will invest in a hock blade. The handle on it is also a replacement. I'm thinking about turning a rosewood handle for it. Should be a fun restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would not normally buy another #5, but got drawn into this 5c. Japanning is Ok. Both handles have damage. It has the wrong lever cap. Everything else is good. The main reason I bought it, is that it has a nice Bedrock lever cap. Figured for $15, I could not go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Sargent #52 Scraper. It is a very nice, solid tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going through a phase with these old style screwdrivers. Putting together as set of various sizes of these. They work well with the screws on the planes. May do some shopping on the UK Ebay site. Seem to be more common there. Probably should raid Phil's shop. : ^ )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Xacto plane. I'm still deciding if I will keep it or give it to a neibour or hang on to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy Easter!!!


Metal mass is an excellent handle and appears worn from use. I have not used it for scraping yet, but it feels natural to hold in both hands. I guess I will need to glue something up.


----------



## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *A couple of new candidates*
> 
> There is a monthly antique sale here in town. I went down there with the family this morning to look around. I've got some pictures to share of what I got today and will add these at the end of the entry. I'm sharing primarily because David asked to see what I got.
> 
> I was looking for a #18 block plane, but the dealer who normally has a large selection of planes was not here today. So no #18 today. The number of dealers was a little less than normal today. I'm assuming this was because of the Easter holiday.
> 
> Also, I was on the hunt for a router plane. I saw a Stanley and a Miller-Falls, but neither was good enough for the asking price.
> 
> The Antique Fair is located underneath one of the local freeways. During the week it serves as a parking lot for California State employees. About half way through the antique fair, my daugher came up to me and told me that a Raccoon was hanging off of the freeway overpass. I walked over to where she indicated and sure enough a raccoon was there. He was about 30 feet up above the pavement and with 12 lanes of freeway behind him. The highway patrol, fire departement, animal control, and at least 2 of the local TV stations had arrived. The firemen (about 6 of them) were deployed below the Raccoon with a large blanket. There was a very large crowd below watching. Animal control went up onto the freeway and attempted to get a noose on him. He ran around the person and Jumped. Unfortunately, the firemen were not able to get over quickly enough and he hit very hard. The crowd was stunned and the fire department went over and covered him with the blanket. People were crying. It was very depressing.
> 
> After this, I slowly continued on my way. About 5 minutes later my daughter came back and told me that they had put the raccoon in a cage and he was now awake and looking at people. Hopefully things will work out for him. But things were looking up. I'll check the news tonight and see if there is an update.
> 
> Anyway, I found the following items today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Box of files and small tools $8
> Stanley 5c handplane $12
> Old Screwdriver $12
> Stanley 12 1/2 Scraper Plane $20
> Sargent Scraper $20
> xacto plane $6
> 
> I passed 6 jorgensen 48" or so bar clamps for $50 and they were gone when I came back. I have plenty of clamps, but you can always use more.
> 
> Here is a look at the files. Lots of handles and stuff. Most are Nicholson files. : ^ )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to restore the 12 1/2. I need to replace the rosewood that goes on the sole of the plane. I will also need to get a blade for it. Probably will invest in a hock blade. The handle on it is also a replacement. I'm thinking about turning a rosewood handle for it. Should be a fun restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would not normally buy another #5, but got drawn into this 5c. Japanning is Ok. Both handles have damage. It has the wrong lever cap. Everything else is good. The main reason I bought it, is that it has a nice Bedrock lever cap. Figured for $15, I could not go wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Sargent #52 Scraper. It is a very nice, solid tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going through a phase with these old style screwdrivers. Putting together as set of various sizes of these. They work well with the screws on the planes. May do some shopping on the UK Ebay site. Seem to be more common there. Probably should raid Phil's shop. : ^ )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Xacto plane. I'm still deciding if I will keep it or give it to a neibour or hang on to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy Easter!!!


Oh, yes. By all means. I look forward to the update.


----------



## WayneC

*Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up*

I've been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post "Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before". Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.

*Before Photo*










I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it's jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.

To clean up the exposed metal parts, I'm using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.










Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I'm looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.










The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.

*Top View*










*Sole Before*










*Side Before*










This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.










I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.

I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I've seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.

After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.

It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.


----------



## Karson

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up*
> 
> I've been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post "Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before". Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.
> 
> *Before Photo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it's jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.
> 
> To clean up the exposed metal parts, I'm using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I'm looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sole Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Side Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.
> 
> I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I've seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.
> 
> After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
> 
> It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.


Great start. And tutorial for all to follow.


----------



## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up*
> 
> I've been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post "Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before". Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.
> 
> *Before Photo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it's jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.
> 
> To clean up the exposed metal parts, I'm using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I'm looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sole Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Side Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.
> 
> I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I've seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.
> 
> After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
> 
> It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.


Great post Wayne. Can you go into more detail about lapping with the grit on glass in another post sometime? I've never read or heard about that… Seems cool because I have only used Scarey Sharp to do my irons and have been pleased with that. The only thing I know of is the emery paper on the jointer bed trick for soles.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up*
> 
> I've been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post "Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before". Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.
> 
> *Before Photo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it's jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.
> 
> To clean up the exposed metal parts, I'm using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I'm looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sole Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Side Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.
> 
> I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I've seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.
> 
> After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
> 
> It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.


Thanks Karson and Caliper.

Float glass is very flat and like the bed of a Jointer is a good candidate for flatening a plane. Lee valley sells the plate I have in the photos above. They also sell adhesive plastic sheets can are applied to the glass and the carbide grit. Info on this can be found in the link in the blog entry.

I found that the grit can be found for less money at a lapidary supply store. I belive the grit I purchased was $2.60 per pound.

In his video, Ernie Conover uses a large piece of glass that he epoxies a piece of lamanent. This helps the grit cut as I understand it. This is a pretty good video for the $10 asking price.

Basically you pour some grit on the lapping plate and wet it with water. You then rub the sole or side against the plate until you have an even scratch pattern across the entire surface. You then wash the plane off and then can air dry it using your compressor or rags. You need to be careful and wear eye protection if your using the compressor to keep from getting any grit in your eyes.

I actually think I prefer sandpaper for lapping. I did not feel like digging it out this morning. (It goy burried in the garage a couple of weeks ago). I also have a Granite Surface Plate from WoodCraft. I normally use it with sand paper. I will do the next plane with that.

Oh and did you see these Calipers in my shop?


----------



## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up*
> 
> I've been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post "Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before". Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.
> 
> *Before Photo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it's jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.
> 
> To clean up the exposed metal parts, I'm using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I'm looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sole Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Side Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.
> 
> I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I've seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.
> 
> After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
> 
> It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.


That is cool! What does one measure with a caliper that size?

I like the sign behind as well. Thanks for the process description.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up*
> 
> I've been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post "Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before". Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.
> 
> *Before Photo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it's jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.
> 
> To clean up the exposed metal parts, I'm using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I'm looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sole Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Side Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.
> 
> I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I've seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.
> 
> After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
> 
> It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.


Your welcome. I belive it is from the lumber or railroad industry. I happened across it on one of my tool hunting trips. It said it needed to find a place on my wall. The sign was a good 50 cent garage sale find. I still need to organize the shop and get things displayed approprately.


----------



## scottb

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up*
> 
> I've been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post "Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before". Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.
> 
> *Before Photo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it's jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.
> 
> To clean up the exposed metal parts, I'm using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I'm looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sole Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Side Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.
> 
> I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I've seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.
> 
> After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
> 
> It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.


Do you use those calipers to measure your turnings? Handy for measuring the wall thickness of bowls, and when your pens are just about the right size


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up*
> 
> I've been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post "Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before". Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.
> 
> *Before Photo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it's jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.
> 
> To clean up the exposed metal parts, I'm using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I'm looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sole Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Side Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.
> 
> I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I've seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.
> 
> After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
> 
> It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.


I had joked to my wife about them being weight watcher's calipers…. I just put a tape measure to them. They are 33 1/2" long (closed).


----------



## oscorner

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up*
> 
> I've been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post "Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before". Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.
> 
> *Before Photo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it's jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.
> 
> To clean up the exposed metal parts, I'm using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I'm looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sole Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Side Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.
> 
> I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I've seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.
> 
> After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
> 
> It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.


Those are profit calipers, right WayneC?


----------



## Wooder

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up*
> 
> I've been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post "Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before". Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.
> 
> *Before Photo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it's jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.
> 
> To clean up the exposed metal parts, I'm using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I'm looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sole Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Side Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.
> 
> I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I've seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.
> 
> After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
> 
> It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.


Love those fettling jobs!!! Guess I need to move up in the world and get a float glass and try it. I have used my TS top, jointer bed and last few years a peice of MDF. It's very flat and has worked fine. Guess I'm too cheap…lol
I also do a final lapping with the plane put together, (iron adj up). This emulates all the stress points as if I were using the plane. Not sure it makes that big a deal. Got the info from Garrett Hack's The Handplane Book. 
That #3 is gonna be sweet!!! Can't wait to see the finished product.

LONG LIVE KNUCKLE DRAGGERS!!!


----------



## TheKiltedWoodworker

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up*
> 
> I've been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post "Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before". Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.
> 
> *Before Photo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it's jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.
> 
> To clean up the exposed metal parts, I'm using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I'm looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sole Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Side Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.
> 
> I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I've seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.
> 
> After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
> 
> It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.


Wayne,

I was always told you should set up the plane for use (blade retracted, of course) before you lap the sole and sides, as you're applying tension to the plane that is otherwise not there. If you lap the sole flat first, and then add the frog and apply tension, you'll then end up with a sole that isn't flat anymore.

Have you done any tests on that, comparing one technique vs. the other? If so, what are your thoughts on the issue?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up*
> 
> I've been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post "Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before". Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.
> 
> *Before Photo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it's jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.
> 
> To clean up the exposed metal parts, I'm using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I'm looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sole Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Side Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.
> 
> I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I've seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.
> 
> After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
> 
> It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.


I've seen arguments on both sides relative to lapping with and without the frog in the plane. I'm not sure if it really makes a difference. I've got another 5-6 planes to lap before I'm done. I'll try it both ways and let you know if I can tell the difference.

This number 3 was really not a very good test. It's sole was pretty flat to begin with and it is fairly small.


----------



## DouginVa

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 Clean-up*
> 
> I've been working on cleaning up this plane in the evenings this week and thought I would post some photos and description of the process. To begin with I had inspected and dissassembled the plane you can see photos and description of this process in the my earlier post "Handplane Resortation: Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 before". Now I have begun the process of cleaning the plane.
> 
> *Before Photo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I started by cleaning up the blade, chipbreaker, lever cap, and Frog. I used a tooth brush, a rag and denatured alcohol to clean up the jappaning. I would estimate this plane has about 60% of it's jappaning remaining. Jappaning is a coating applied to the plane body after casting and before machining. If your concerned about the value of the plane, you should not repaint the plane. Leave the jappaning as it is.
> 
> To clean up the exposed metal parts, I'm using sanding blocks I obtained from my local big box store. I start with coarse grit and move to fine. It is important to note that I did not use abrasives on any part that is jappaned, chrome, brass or blued. The blued parts on this plane are the metal piece that goes behind the screw used to adjust the frog and also the back of the chip breaker. These were cleaned with alchohol. I will apply schellac to these parts to prevent rust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I lapped the sole of the plane. This time I am using a plate glass lapping plate and 90 grit silicon carbide lapping grit. I have some grit I obtained from Lee Valley. I also have some 60 grit that I obtained from a local lapidary store. I'm looking for a consistent scratch pattern across the sole and both sides of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sole of this plane has a little wear near the front of the plane and in the back on the sides. It too about 20 minutes to lap the sole flat. I then followed up with the sanding blocks to get a consistent finish on the sides and sole.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sole Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Side Before*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like after the main parts have been cleaned and lapped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have to clean up the brass parts and hardware parts used to put the plane together. I also need to repair the broken rear tote. I will probably leave the front knob as it is and look for a parts plane for a replacement knob. It has been cracked and reglued. The glue job is not very good.
> 
> I will probably use Gorilla glue to make the repair to the tote. I've seen a couple of approaches for this and given that this is a real clean break. Gorilla glue should work ok.
> 
> After this is done I will apply schellac to the Japanning and then begin to tune the blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
> 
> It will probably next weekend before I finish. Tomorrow I am taking an all day class at WoodCraft with a friend. Take care and have a good weekend.


One bit of advice that was passed on to me a while back, and I didn't see that it was done in your case. When you flatten your plane on glass or granite, you should do it with the frog, iron, chip breaker and handles all installed….with the iron backed out obviously.

This puts the torque in the plane body and could chane it's shape relative to a flat surface. This way when you start flattening it the sole of the plane will flatten as if it's being used, not when it's sitting by itself without the other components attached and tightened.


----------



## WayneC

*Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*

I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.

I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.










On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.










Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?

To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.










The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.




























Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.

Before










After




























Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


----------



## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Awesome work, Wanye. It makes we want to comb ebay again for some that are in need of rehabbing. Good luck with the #4 and congrats on the 5 1/4!


----------



## Wooder

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Wayne, ya done good! A great restore for sure.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Thanks. Still waiting on the 5 1/4. The seller does not take paypal and I had to send a check via snailmail.


----------



## David

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Wayne -

Revisting this post. Beautiful job! I appreciate the detailed report on the 5 1/4.

I am wondering if that bench will have trouble leaving your shop?! I am jealous . . .

*Good luck on the $20 #1 and #2 to complete your set of bench planes!*


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


LOL. I'm not holding my breath. But thanks.

The cheapest #2 I have seen in a while has been $170 and perhaps $700 for a #1. I have seen #1s in good shape sell for over $1500 on ebay. You never know….


----------



## slwhiteside

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Wayne,

Really nice. A little attention goes long way.

After the glue repair on the handle, what else did you do to it? It looks perfect…


----------



## Paul

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Your only chance for a #1 or #2 for $20 is at a yard sale nowadays.

Been looking for almost 30 years and haven't stumbled onto that yard sale yet.

And then, I know some of you will think I'm crazy, I struggle with giving someone $20 for something they obviously don't know is pretty valuable.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Thanks Chipper. I used shellac on the handles and the jappaning. I also rub Renaissance Wax on the planes.

I would be real surprised to run across a #1 or #2 these days. I keep hoping to find one in an antique store or a flea market. I broke down and went the Lie-Nielson route.

Yes, it does provide an ethical issue.


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Beautiful work once again! I want bigger pictures! Maybe next time?


----------



## slwhiteside

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Wayne,

I was working on my #4 from ebay that arrived late last week. A comment and a couple of quesitons:

1) I used citric acid in the concentration you suggested. It took a couple of hours before I saw a difference. A lot of hand work with the scouring pad. It worked, just too longer than your efforts. I obtained by acid from a home brewer outfit, so I would guess it would have the same level of acidity.

2) Do you scuff up the tote and front handle before applying the shellac? I want to get to the same polished appearance that you achieved.

3) Do you put the sole in the acid bath? I didn't but thought about it.

4) I am using Boshield T-9, which happens to have a wax component. Happen to know of any greater benefit using Renaissance Wax?

5) Someone (maybe you) wrote of a base set of planes. What Stanley's make a the "base set"? I'm trying for the working set that was suggested elsewhere (60 1/2, #4, #5, #7, #92), but I am curious about what makes a base set.

6) Electrolysis - the citric acid removes material, while electrolysis can put on material. I have some pitting on the sole of my Dunlop that would require a lot more metal to come off the sole in order to fix. Could electrolysis be used to fix this (paint/wax the areas not needing material)? How long might it take to actually make a difference? Is the electrolysis actually just being used to boil the rust off (moving metal the wrong way)?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
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> After
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> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Thanks Dorje, if I get time I will adjust the photo size.

Steve

1) I used the scouring pad every 20 minutes to a half hour while it was soaking. I think you just need to experiment with the level you use.

2) I used steel wool and denatured alcohol to clean it up.

3) You can if needed. I did not use Acid on this particiular plane.

4) I have not tried T-9. I like the wax and do all parts.

5) In this blog I was putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. Everything from 1-8 plus the 1/2 and 1/4 sizes. For a base set I would recommend a Low angle and standard angle block plane, Smooting Plane, Jack Plane, and a Jointer Plane. Add a shoulder plane if your doing Mortice and Tennon work.

6) I belive you may be contrasting electroplating with electrolysis. I belive electrolysis just removes rust without removing any iron. I would lap the sole to remove the pitting. And if the key areas of the bottom are flat (toe, heel and around the mouth), I would not worry about the pitting.


----------



## slwhiteside

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> After
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Thanks! Wayne. This helps!


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> After
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Your most welcome.


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## HokieMojo

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Just wanted to say thanks for this blog. I ordered a couple planes on ebay yesterday and I plan to use your blog as a reference guide to clean them up. I know you posted this a while ago, but your work to do this is still helping me out almost 2 yrs later. Thanks again.


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## Grumpy

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


WAYNE, GOOD RESTORATION. I THINK THE BROKEN HANDLE IS A COMMON PROBLEM. MINE ALSO. FIXED ONCE BEFORE BUT GONE AGAIN.


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## gusthehonky

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Great restore.

If you or anyone is serious I have a pair of 2C, high/low knob, looking to part w/ one. PM if interested.


----------



## Zif

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #3 Type 10 After*
> 
> I finished up the restoration work on the #3 I have been working on. Things have been going slow due to work and family commitments. I thought I would get the blog entry done this morning before heading out to the woodworking show. I'm taking my daughter and her boyfriend. It should be a lot of fun.
> 
> I also picked up a couple of items yesterday. My mother-in-law as been wanting a workbench for a while and I found one on craigslist yesterday. I love craigslist. The photos of the plane were take on her new bench. I'll get to be it's caretaker until she comes up from Arizona in June to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On ebay I was able to get a Stanley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. From the photos it appears to be new in the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now all I need are the $20 #1 and #2 to complete my set of bench planes. Good luck, right?
> 
> To finish the plane, I needed to clean the hardware. I used my lathe with a drill chuck to hold the parts. I used abrasive blocks and a 320 grit abrasive foam pad to clean up every thing except the brass parts. To clean the brass nuts, I put them in the shorter handle post and mounted them in the lathe. I used cloth and semi-chrome polish to shine them up. Here are the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next issue I needed to deal with was the broken handle. The break was very clean so I used PVA. I used a woodworking clamp to hold the handle. It worked well. Below are some photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I applied schallac to the jappaning and to the blued components (metal that holds frog adjustmet screw and back of chip breaker) and reassembled. I still need to sharpen and tune the plane. I'll get you all a few photos to show how it cuts. This is how the plane turned out.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next in line is a #4. Here is a preview…


Hey Wayne, very exciting! I am just now getting a couple of old planes off eBay and will use your examples to do restoration/clean-up on them. Nice job. 
Thank You,
Zif


----------



## WayneC

*Stanley #4 Type 3/4? *

I've been having blogging withdrawals and was hoping to get started on my next plane restoration. Tonight, after I was able to free myself from my last meeting of the day, I inspected the #4 I had set aside for restoration. As you can see from the photo's this plane is pretty rough.




























This plane was in a box of planes I bought at an antique store for $50. There were a good 15 planes in the box and lots of other Misc tools. The owner had it in the back of the store and wanted to get rid of it. Some days it pays to ask about what your looking for.

I had been looking for a good number 4 for a while, but had not found one that I really like. I thought I would restore this one and wait for the right one to come along.

I dissassembled the plane and the following are my notes:


The rear tote is pretty crudely shaped and appears to be home made. I was also unable to free the rear post from the bed of the plane.


The lever cap is missing its spring and has damage to the lower end of the cap. The cap also has a U cast in it. There is damage to the lower part of the lever cap. It does not have a spring.


The body has a #4 cast into the toe of the plane. No patent dates. Perhaps 65% of the jappanning remaining. Significant rust under the frog. Does not appear to be pitted.


I could not find any markings on the blade. Most likely due to rust.The blade and chip breaker would not come apart.


The frog is attached with round head screws that appear to have washers attached to them. It has "Stanley" stamped into the lateral adjuster. It does not have a frog adjustment screw.


The blade asjustment knob is marked Bailey Patent Aug 6 1867 and Aug 31 1858.

Here are some photos of the plane apart.




























After looking at the plane, I decided that I would not restore the plane. It is either an early plane or one assembled from a variety of parts and I do not belive in restoring very old or rare planes. I looked in the type study and had a hard time pinning down the specific type of the plane. The Type 3 or 4 is a guess.

The plane has a number of condition issues. I will continue to look for a good #4. I think I will target a #4C either here locally or get one off of ebay. Speaking of ebay, I am still waiting on the 5 1/4 I won last weekend. The seller did not take paypal and I had to send a check via snail mail. I'll take some photos when it arrives.

Have a great weekend.


----------



## Wooder

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #4 Type 3/4? *
> 
> I've been having blogging withdrawals and was hoping to get started on my next plane restoration. Tonight, after I was able to free myself from my last meeting of the day, I inspected the #4 I had set aside for restoration. As you can see from the photo's this plane is pretty rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane was in a box of planes I bought at an antique store for $50. There were a good 15 planes in the box and lots of other Misc tools. The owner had it in the back of the store and wanted to get rid of it. Some days it pays to ask about what your looking for.
> 
> I had been looking for a good number 4 for a while, but had not found one that I really like. I thought I would restore this one and wait for the right one to come along.
> 
> I dissassembled the plane and the following are my notes:
> 
> 
> The rear tote is pretty crudely shaped and appears to be home made. I was also unable to free the rear post from the bed of the plane.
> 
> 
> The lever cap is missing its spring and has damage to the lower end of the cap. The cap also has a U cast in it. There is damage to the lower part of the lever cap. It does not have a spring.
> 
> 
> The body has a #4 cast into the toe of the plane. No patent dates. Perhaps 65% of the jappanning remaining. Significant rust under the frog. Does not appear to be pitted.
> 
> 
> I could not find any markings on the blade. Most likely due to rust.The blade and chip breaker would not come apart.
> 
> 
> The frog is attached with round head screws that appear to have washers attached to them. It has "Stanley" stamped into the lateral adjuster. It does not have a frog adjustment screw.
> 
> 
> The blade asjustment knob is marked Bailey Patent Aug 6 1867 and Aug 31 1858.
> 
> Here are some photos of the plane apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After looking at the plane, I decided that I would not restore the plane. It is either an early plane or one assembled from a variety of parts and I do not belive in restoring very old or rare planes. I looked in the type study and had a hard time pinning down the specific type of the plane. The Type 3 or 4 is a guess.
> 
> The plane has a number of condition issues. I will continue to look for a good #4. I think I will target a #4C either here locally or get one off of ebay. Speaking of ebay, I am still waiting on the 5 1/4 I won last weekend. The seller did not take paypal and I had to send a check via snail mail. I'll take some photos when it arrives.
> 
> Have a great weekend.


Wayne, I think maybe your are correct not to prusue the restoration of this plane. I does appear to be an old one. 
I gotta tell you, when I bid on the bay for something I use the "PayPal Only" click on the side of the list of items page. That way I don't have to deal with anything but PayPal.
BTW I've only received maybe 3 planes that I considered "not a good deaL" on ebay. I've been quite pleased with 99% of them. 
What's your veiw of that?


----------



## TheKiltedWoodworker

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #4 Type 3/4? *
> 
> I've been having blogging withdrawals and was hoping to get started on my next plane restoration. Tonight, after I was able to free myself from my last meeting of the day, I inspected the #4 I had set aside for restoration. As you can see from the photo's this plane is pretty rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane was in a box of planes I bought at an antique store for $50. There were a good 15 planes in the box and lots of other Misc tools. The owner had it in the back of the store and wanted to get rid of it. Some days it pays to ask about what your looking for.
> 
> I had been looking for a good number 4 for a while, but had not found one that I really like. I thought I would restore this one and wait for the right one to come along.
> 
> I dissassembled the plane and the following are my notes:
> 
> 
> The rear tote is pretty crudely shaped and appears to be home made. I was also unable to free the rear post from the bed of the plane.
> 
> 
> The lever cap is missing its spring and has damage to the lower end of the cap. The cap also has a U cast in it. There is damage to the lower part of the lever cap. It does not have a spring.
> 
> 
> The body has a #4 cast into the toe of the plane. No patent dates. Perhaps 65% of the jappanning remaining. Significant rust under the frog. Does not appear to be pitted.
> 
> 
> I could not find any markings on the blade. Most likely due to rust.The blade and chip breaker would not come apart.
> 
> 
> The frog is attached with round head screws that appear to have washers attached to them. It has "Stanley" stamped into the lateral adjuster. It does not have a frog adjustment screw.
> 
> 
> The blade asjustment knob is marked Bailey Patent Aug 6 1867 and Aug 31 1858.
> 
> Here are some photos of the plane apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After looking at the plane, I decided that I would not restore the plane. It is either an early plane or one assembled from a variety of parts and I do not belive in restoring very old or rare planes. I looked in the type study and had a hard time pinning down the specific type of the plane. The Type 3 or 4 is a guess.
> 
> The plane has a number of condition issues. I will continue to look for a good #4. I think I will target a #4C either here locally or get one off of ebay. Speaking of ebay, I am still waiting on the 5 1/4 I won last weekend. The seller did not take paypal and I had to send a check via snail mail. I'll take some photos when it arrives.
> 
> Have a great weekend.


I'm a big fan of eBay. The main thing to keep in mind is that you have to be informed. You have to know what it is you're looking for and you have to know what it is you're looking at.

The first part is self-explanatory. If you're just looking for a "hand plane", then you're going to have to sift through a lot of junk and stuff you don't want before you find what you're looking for. If you're looking for a Bailey #4C, then you'll have much better luck.

On the other hand, sometimes you have to try and expand your search with different variations to make sure someone hasn't listed it under a slightly more obscure heading.

The second part is where people get caught up in buying something other than what they think they're getting. I'll never bid on something that doesn't have good quality pictures of multiple angles of the item. If I don't see what I want to see, like the area near the mouth of the plane or a backside view of the frog adjuster, then I'll ask for a picture of it. If they're not accommodating, then I simply won't bid.

I tend to not go off of the seller's description of the item, especially if it has anything wood as a part of it. 95% of eBay sellers are wood-ignorant. If it's lighter in color, they'll call it pine or oak. If it's darker in color, they'll call it walnut.

Speaking of not knowing… 99.5% of eBay sellers don't know a dove tail from a box joint. Some day I'll have to post some pictures of the first thing I ever bought off of eBay. It was a walnut (the seller actually didn't call it walnut on this one, or it would have cost a lot more than the $47.82 I ended up paying for it) dovetailed tool chest with two inside trays set at different levels that slide on rails.

I had to sift through a ton of those stupid box jointed packing crates to find that gem.

It doesn't really matter to me if they take paypal or check. It's all money and its all coming from the same bank account.

The third thing to keep in mind, in my book, is how much you're willing to spend. I generally make one and only one bid for an item. I'll figure out how much I think it's worth and then how much I'm willing to pay (sometimes a different number, isn't it?), and then I'll put in a bid for the highest amount I'm willing to pay for that item. If someone out-bids me, then they obviously wanted it more than me, didn't they? That's cool. It's eBay. Something else will come along soon enough.

My latest eBay addiction: Lignum Mallets

Maybe I should write up a blog on that… You don't want to know how many of them I have in my shop right now.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #4 Type 3/4? *
> 
> I've been having blogging withdrawals and was hoping to get started on my next plane restoration. Tonight, after I was able to free myself from my last meeting of the day, I inspected the #4 I had set aside for restoration. As you can see from the photo's this plane is pretty rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane was in a box of planes I bought at an antique store for $50. There were a good 15 planes in the box and lots of other Misc tools. The owner had it in the back of the store and wanted to get rid of it. Some days it pays to ask about what your looking for.
> 
> I had been looking for a good number 4 for a while, but had not found one that I really like. I thought I would restore this one and wait for the right one to come along.
> 
> I dissassembled the plane and the following are my notes:
> 
> 
> The rear tote is pretty crudely shaped and appears to be home made. I was also unable to free the rear post from the bed of the plane.
> 
> 
> The lever cap is missing its spring and has damage to the lower end of the cap. The cap also has a U cast in it. There is damage to the lower part of the lever cap. It does not have a spring.
> 
> 
> The body has a #4 cast into the toe of the plane. No patent dates. Perhaps 65% of the jappanning remaining. Significant rust under the frog. Does not appear to be pitted.
> 
> 
> I could not find any markings on the blade. Most likely due to rust.The blade and chip breaker would not come apart.
> 
> 
> The frog is attached with round head screws that appear to have washers attached to them. It has "Stanley" stamped into the lateral adjuster. It does not have a frog adjustment screw.
> 
> 
> The blade asjustment knob is marked Bailey Patent Aug 6 1867 and Aug 31 1858.
> 
> Here are some photos of the plane apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After looking at the plane, I decided that I would not restore the plane. It is either an early plane or one assembled from a variety of parts and I do not belive in restoring very old or rare planes. I looked in the type study and had a hard time pinning down the specific type of the plane. The Type 3 or 4 is a guess.
> 
> The plane has a number of condition issues. I will continue to look for a good #4. I think I will target a #4C either here locally or get one off of ebay. Speaking of ebay, I am still waiting on the 5 1/4 I won last weekend. The seller did not take paypal and I had to send a check via snail mail. I'll take some photos when it arrives.
> 
> Have a great weekend.


I like to use ebay as well. I use it to find specfic items and will normally work with the seller if it is an item I want. Given this I normally spend more on planes I puchase ebay than I do at the local antique store or flea market. Also, I am trying to avoid becoming a "Collector" if I can. I'm trying to assemble a full set of planes that cover the spectrum of general use.

So far I have puchased 4 planes on ebay. None of these were "cheap" compaired to what I normally pay at the local flea market.

A very nice Bailey 4 4/12 smoothing plane
A very nice Record T5 Technical Jack Plane
A good Bedrock #5 Jack Plane
A Sweet Baley 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane (waiting for it to arrive)

Like Ethan, I working through some speciality tools. Pinch dogs and old screwdrivers at the moment. I also got some great cross pein hammers a while back.


----------



## TheKiltedWoodworker

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #4 Type 3/4? *
> 
> I've been having blogging withdrawals and was hoping to get started on my next plane restoration. Tonight, after I was able to free myself from my last meeting of the day, I inspected the #4 I had set aside for restoration. As you can see from the photo's this plane is pretty rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane was in a box of planes I bought at an antique store for $50. There were a good 15 planes in the box and lots of other Misc tools. The owner had it in the back of the store and wanted to get rid of it. Some days it pays to ask about what your looking for.
> 
> I had been looking for a good number 4 for a while, but had not found one that I really like. I thought I would restore this one and wait for the right one to come along.
> 
> I dissassembled the plane and the following are my notes:
> 
> 
> The rear tote is pretty crudely shaped and appears to be home made. I was also unable to free the rear post from the bed of the plane.
> 
> 
> The lever cap is missing its spring and has damage to the lower end of the cap. The cap also has a U cast in it. There is damage to the lower part of the lever cap. It does not have a spring.
> 
> 
> The body has a #4 cast into the toe of the plane. No patent dates. Perhaps 65% of the jappanning remaining. Significant rust under the frog. Does not appear to be pitted.
> 
> 
> I could not find any markings on the blade. Most likely due to rust.The blade and chip breaker would not come apart.
> 
> 
> The frog is attached with round head screws that appear to have washers attached to them. It has "Stanley" stamped into the lateral adjuster. It does not have a frog adjustment screw.
> 
> 
> The blade asjustment knob is marked Bailey Patent Aug 6 1867 and Aug 31 1858.
> 
> Here are some photos of the plane apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After looking at the plane, I decided that I would not restore the plane. It is either an early plane or one assembled from a variety of parts and I do not belive in restoring very old or rare planes. I looked in the type study and had a hard time pinning down the specific type of the plane. The Type 3 or 4 is a guess.
> 
> The plane has a number of condition issues. I will continue to look for a good #4. I think I will target a #4C either here locally or get one off of ebay. Speaking of ebay, I am still waiting on the 5 1/4 I won last weekend. The seller did not take paypal and I had to send a check via snail mail. I'll take some photos when it arrives.
> 
> Have a great weekend.


Wayne,
I noticed your turnscrew in one of the pictures above.

I'm jealous.

I'd like to have a set of turnscrews - it doesn't even matter to me if they're new or old. Unfortunately, most of the turnscrews I see on eBay are across the pond. There are a few companies out there who have a set of them for about $60. I wouldn't mind finding it a little cheaper…


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #4 Type 3/4? *
> 
> I've been having blogging withdrawals and was hoping to get started on my next plane restoration. Tonight, after I was able to free myself from my last meeting of the day, I inspected the #4 I had set aside for restoration. As you can see from the photo's this plane is pretty rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane was in a box of planes I bought at an antique store for $50. There were a good 15 planes in the box and lots of other Misc tools. The owner had it in the back of the store and wanted to get rid of it. Some days it pays to ask about what your looking for.
> 
> I had been looking for a good number 4 for a while, but had not found one that I really like. I thought I would restore this one and wait for the right one to come along.
> 
> I dissassembled the plane and the following are my notes:
> 
> 
> The rear tote is pretty crudely shaped and appears to be home made. I was also unable to free the rear post from the bed of the plane.
> 
> 
> The lever cap is missing its spring and has damage to the lower end of the cap. The cap also has a U cast in it. There is damage to the lower part of the lever cap. It does not have a spring.
> 
> 
> The body has a #4 cast into the toe of the plane. No patent dates. Perhaps 65% of the jappanning remaining. Significant rust under the frog. Does not appear to be pitted.
> 
> 
> I could not find any markings on the blade. Most likely due to rust.The blade and chip breaker would not come apart.
> 
> 
> The frog is attached with round head screws that appear to have washers attached to them. It has "Stanley" stamped into the lateral adjuster. It does not have a frog adjustment screw.
> 
> 
> The blade asjustment knob is marked Bailey Patent Aug 6 1867 and Aug 31 1858.
> 
> Here are some photos of the plane apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After looking at the plane, I decided that I would not restore the plane. It is either an early plane or one assembled from a variety of parts and I do not belive in restoring very old or rare planes. I looked in the type study and had a hard time pinning down the specific type of the plane. The Type 3 or 4 is a guess.
> 
> The plane has a number of condition issues. I will continue to look for a good #4. I think I will target a #4C either here locally or get one off of ebay. Speaking of ebay, I am still waiting on the 5 1/4 I won last weekend. The seller did not take paypal and I had to send a check via snail mail. I'll take some photos when it arrives.
> 
> Have a great weekend.


I have noticed the same thing about ebay. I've been keeping my eyes out for turnscrews and also starting to pick them up when I come across them. There is a big flea market here in town and I go by there on the weekends every once in a while to look for tools.

I'm also looking for some of the cabinet makers screw drivers. I loved to find an old set.


----------



## AgentTwitch

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #4 Type 3/4? *
> 
> I've been having blogging withdrawals and was hoping to get started on my next plane restoration. Tonight, after I was able to free myself from my last meeting of the day, I inspected the #4 I had set aside for restoration. As you can see from the photo's this plane is pretty rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane was in a box of planes I bought at an antique store for $50. There were a good 15 planes in the box and lots of other Misc tools. The owner had it in the back of the store and wanted to get rid of it. Some days it pays to ask about what your looking for.
> 
> I had been looking for a good number 4 for a while, but had not found one that I really like. I thought I would restore this one and wait for the right one to come along.
> 
> I dissassembled the plane and the following are my notes:
> 
> 
> The rear tote is pretty crudely shaped and appears to be home made. I was also unable to free the rear post from the bed of the plane.
> 
> 
> The lever cap is missing its spring and has damage to the lower end of the cap. The cap also has a U cast in it. There is damage to the lower part of the lever cap. It does not have a spring.
> 
> 
> The body has a #4 cast into the toe of the plane. No patent dates. Perhaps 65% of the jappanning remaining. Significant rust under the frog. Does not appear to be pitted.
> 
> 
> I could not find any markings on the blade. Most likely due to rust.The blade and chip breaker would not come apart.
> 
> 
> The frog is attached with round head screws that appear to have washers attached to them. It has "Stanley" stamped into the lateral adjuster. It does not have a frog adjustment screw.
> 
> 
> The blade asjustment knob is marked Bailey Patent Aug 6 1867 and Aug 31 1858.
> 
> Here are some photos of the plane apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After looking at the plane, I decided that I would not restore the plane. It is either an early plane or one assembled from a variety of parts and I do not belive in restoring very old or rare planes. I looked in the type study and had a hard time pinning down the specific type of the plane. The Type 3 or 4 is a guess.
> 
> The plane has a number of condition issues. I will continue to look for a good #4. I think I will target a #4C either here locally or get one off of ebay. Speaking of ebay, I am still waiting on the 5 1/4 I won last weekend. The seller did not take paypal and I had to send a check via snail mail. I'll take some photos when it arrives.
> 
> Have a great weekend.


It is possible that you have several different genres of parts in that plane. I dont think its a type 3 or 4 as the frog has to be at least a Type 5 since there is a lateral adjustment lever.


----------



## cjwillie

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #4 Type 3/4? *
> 
> I've been having blogging withdrawals and was hoping to get started on my next plane restoration. Tonight, after I was able to free myself from my last meeting of the day, I inspected the #4 I had set aside for restoration. As you can see from the photo's this plane is pretty rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane was in a box of planes I bought at an antique store for $50. There were a good 15 planes in the box and lots of other Misc tools. The owner had it in the back of the store and wanted to get rid of it. Some days it pays to ask about what your looking for.
> 
> I had been looking for a good number 4 for a while, but had not found one that I really like. I thought I would restore this one and wait for the right one to come along.
> 
> I dissassembled the plane and the following are my notes:
> 
> 
> The rear tote is pretty crudely shaped and appears to be home made. I was also unable to free the rear post from the bed of the plane.
> 
> 
> The lever cap is missing its spring and has damage to the lower end of the cap. The cap also has a U cast in it. There is damage to the lower part of the lever cap. It does not have a spring.
> 
> 
> The body has a #4 cast into the toe of the plane. No patent dates. Perhaps 65% of the jappanning remaining. Significant rust under the frog. Does not appear to be pitted.
> 
> 
> I could not find any markings on the blade. Most likely due to rust.The blade and chip breaker would not come apart.
> 
> 
> The frog is attached with round head screws that appear to have washers attached to them. It has "Stanley" stamped into the lateral adjuster. It does not have a frog adjustment screw.
> 
> 
> The blade asjustment knob is marked Bailey Patent Aug 6 1867 and Aug 31 1858.
> 
> Here are some photos of the plane apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After looking at the plane, I decided that I would not restore the plane. It is either an early plane or one assembled from a variety of parts and I do not belive in restoring very old or rare planes. I looked in the type study and had a hard time pinning down the specific type of the plane. The Type 3 or 4 is a guess.
> 
> The plane has a number of condition issues. I will continue to look for a good #4. I think I will target a #4C either here locally or get one off of ebay. Speaking of ebay, I am still waiting on the 5 1/4 I won last weekend. The seller did not take paypal and I had to send a check via snail mail. I'll take some photos when it arrives.
> 
> Have a great weekend.


I still like the old fashioned way of buying tools face to face. Garage sales, auctions, newspaper ads, and pay in cash. So far, 100% satisfaction, no complaints, instant gratification!


----------



## drfunk

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #4 Type 3/4? *
> 
> I've been having blogging withdrawals and was hoping to get started on my next plane restoration. Tonight, after I was able to free myself from my last meeting of the day, I inspected the #4 I had set aside for restoration. As you can see from the photo's this plane is pretty rough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane was in a box of planes I bought at an antique store for $50. There were a good 15 planes in the box and lots of other Misc tools. The owner had it in the back of the store and wanted to get rid of it. Some days it pays to ask about what your looking for.
> 
> I had been looking for a good number 4 for a while, but had not found one that I really like. I thought I would restore this one and wait for the right one to come along.
> 
> I dissassembled the plane and the following are my notes:
> 
> 
> The rear tote is pretty crudely shaped and appears to be home made. I was also unable to free the rear post from the bed of the plane.
> 
> 
> The lever cap is missing its spring and has damage to the lower end of the cap. The cap also has a U cast in it. There is damage to the lower part of the lever cap. It does not have a spring.
> 
> 
> The body has a #4 cast into the toe of the plane. No patent dates. Perhaps 65% of the jappanning remaining. Significant rust under the frog. Does not appear to be pitted.
> 
> 
> I could not find any markings on the blade. Most likely due to rust.The blade and chip breaker would not come apart.
> 
> 
> The frog is attached with round head screws that appear to have washers attached to them. It has "Stanley" stamped into the lateral adjuster. It does not have a frog adjustment screw.
> 
> 
> The blade asjustment knob is marked Bailey Patent Aug 6 1867 and Aug 31 1858.
> 
> Here are some photos of the plane apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After looking at the plane, I decided that I would not restore the plane. It is either an early plane or one assembled from a variety of parts and I do not belive in restoring very old or rare planes. I looked in the type study and had a hard time pinning down the specific type of the plane. The Type 3 or 4 is a guess.
> 
> The plane has a number of condition issues. I will continue to look for a good #4. I think I will target a #4C either here locally or get one off of ebay. Speaking of ebay, I am still waiting on the 5 1/4 I won last weekend. The seller did not take paypal and I had to send a check via snail mail. I'll take some photos when it arrives.
> 
> Have a great weekend.


This fits the description of a type 6 perfectly. Not particularly rare or valuable. For me, unless it had some sentimental value, I personally would pass on restoring it - but I have more money than time and not much of either.

I have a type 7 number 5C that I was sure I was going to restore for a long time, but at some point I realized that Stanley made SO MANY 4's and 5's that I wouldn't get much gratification out of fixing it.


----------



## WayneC

*Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 Type 19*

Thought I would get an easy one out of the way. I have to turn some pens this weekend for 4 of my co-workers that are retiring next month . I'm going to do some real nice kits and use some of my best materials. I'll post some photos in the project section when I finish. It is also my Son's 16th birthday so we have a party planned. Lots to do.

This 4 1/2 plane was purchased on of ebay. I normally shop on ebay when I am looking for a specific plane or other tools. It is a good way to find an older item in a short period of time. If I am hunting for bargins, I prefer flea markets and antique stores. Nothing like a little Nickle Creek on the iPod to get the whole the flea market shopping experience.

Here are some pictures of the plane.




























This plane is in excellent shape and no restoration is necessary. I've decided to retain the original blade in it's current condition and will tag it and set it aside. I've replaced the blade and chipbreaker with a new hock blade and chip breaker.



















I gave the plane a light coat of wax and she is good to go.










Next up will be one of the #5s.


----------



## woodspar

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 Type 19*
> 
> Thought I would get an easy one out of the way. I have to turn some pens this weekend for 4 of my co-workers that are retiring next month . I'm going to do some real nice kits and use some of my best materials. I'll post some photos in the project section when I finish. It is also my Son's 16th birthday so we have a party planned. Lots to do.
> 
> This 4 1/2 plane was purchased on of ebay. I normally shop on ebay when I am looking for a specific plane or other tools. It is a good way to find an older item in a short period of time. If I am hunting for bargins, I prefer flea markets and antique stores. Nothing like a little Nickle Creek on the iPod to get the whole the flea market shopping experience.
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane is in excellent shape and no restoration is necessary. I've decided to retain the original blade in it's current condition and will tag it and set it aside. I've replaced the blade and chipbreaker with a new hock blade and chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gave the plane a light coat of wax and she is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up will be one of the #5s.


Thanks for posting the pix Wayne. I have a Stanley 220 and a mid-century Craftsman bench plane I need to tune up. Thanks for the inspiration.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 Type 19*
> 
> Thought I would get an easy one out of the way. I have to turn some pens this weekend for 4 of my co-workers that are retiring next month . I'm going to do some real nice kits and use some of my best materials. I'll post some photos in the project section when I finish. It is also my Son's 16th birthday so we have a party planned. Lots to do.
> 
> This 4 1/2 plane was purchased on of ebay. I normally shop on ebay when I am looking for a specific plane or other tools. It is a good way to find an older item in a short period of time. If I am hunting for bargins, I prefer flea markets and antique stores. Nothing like a little Nickle Creek on the iPod to get the whole the flea market shopping experience.
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane is in excellent shape and no restoration is necessary. I've decided to retain the original blade in it's current condition and will tag it and set it aside. I've replaced the blade and chipbreaker with a new hock blade and chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gave the plane a light coat of wax and she is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up will be one of the #5s.


Your welcome John.

Ethan has a great blog entry on tuning up a block plane if you have not seen it. It has some good info for your 220. Also Matt has been working on handplane podcasts on his web site. There is some good info there as well.

Hopefully you will post some photos if you get around to reworking your planes.


----------



## woodspar

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 Type 19*
> 
> Thought I would get an easy one out of the way. I have to turn some pens this weekend for 4 of my co-workers that are retiring next month . I'm going to do some real nice kits and use some of my best materials. I'll post some photos in the project section when I finish. It is also my Son's 16th birthday so we have a party planned. Lots to do.
> 
> This 4 1/2 plane was purchased on of ebay. I normally shop on ebay when I am looking for a specific plane or other tools. It is a good way to find an older item in a short period of time. If I am hunting for bargins, I prefer flea markets and antique stores. Nothing like a little Nickle Creek on the iPod to get the whole the flea market shopping experience.
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane is in excellent shape and no restoration is necessary. I've decided to retain the original blade in it's current condition and will tag it and set it aside. I've replaced the blade and chipbreaker with a new hock blade and chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gave the plane a light coat of wax and she is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up will be one of the #5s.


Thanks for the info!


----------



## TheKiltedWoodworker

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 Type 19*
> 
> Thought I would get an easy one out of the way. I have to turn some pens this weekend for 4 of my co-workers that are retiring next month . I'm going to do some real nice kits and use some of my best materials. I'll post some photos in the project section when I finish. It is also my Son's 16th birthday so we have a party planned. Lots to do.
> 
> This 4 1/2 plane was purchased on of ebay. I normally shop on ebay when I am looking for a specific plane or other tools. It is a good way to find an older item in a short period of time. If I am hunting for bargins, I prefer flea markets and antique stores. Nothing like a little Nickle Creek on the iPod to get the whole the flea market shopping experience.
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane is in excellent shape and no restoration is necessary. I've decided to retain the original blade in it's current condition and will tag it and set it aside. I've replaced the blade and chipbreaker with a new hock blade and chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gave the plane a light coat of wax and she is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up will be one of the #5s.


AND you listen to Nickel Creek, too, Wayne?

You're my kind of woodworker. I got to see them live when they were just getting their feet wet at Bonnaroo 2002. They had one of the side stages, but there must have been most of 15,000 people at that stage to watch them. It was probably the biggest crowd they'd seen to that point because they were falling all over themselves trying to thank everyone for showing up.

Now you're just making sure you have that dang'd turnscrew in there just to tease me, aren't you?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 Type 19*
> 
> Thought I would get an easy one out of the way. I have to turn some pens this weekend for 4 of my co-workers that are retiring next month . I'm going to do some real nice kits and use some of my best materials. I'll post some photos in the project section when I finish. It is also my Son's 16th birthday so we have a party planned. Lots to do.
> 
> This 4 1/2 plane was purchased on of ebay. I normally shop on ebay when I am looking for a specific plane or other tools. It is a good way to find an older item in a short period of time. If I am hunting for bargins, I prefer flea markets and antique stores. Nothing like a little Nickle Creek on the iPod to get the whole the flea market shopping experience.
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane is in excellent shape and no restoration is necessary. I've decided to retain the original blade in it's current condition and will tag it and set it aside. I've replaced the blade and chipbreaker with a new hock blade and chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gave the plane a light coat of wax and she is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up will be one of the #5s.


I listen to all kinds of music. It is too bad Nickle Creek is breaking up. I first saw them on Austin City Limits. Bought their CD the next day.

No tease intended, it was just in the tool well from putting the #4 back together.


----------



## rbterhune

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #4 1/2 Type 19*
> 
> Thought I would get an easy one out of the way. I have to turn some pens this weekend for 4 of my co-workers that are retiring next month . I'm going to do some real nice kits and use some of my best materials. I'll post some photos in the project section when I finish. It is also my Son's 16th birthday so we have a party planned. Lots to do.
> 
> This 4 1/2 plane was purchased on of ebay. I normally shop on ebay when I am looking for a specific plane or other tools. It is a good way to find an older item in a short period of time. If I am hunting for bargins, I prefer flea markets and antique stores. Nothing like a little Nickle Creek on the iPod to get the whole the flea market shopping experience.
> 
> Here are some pictures of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane is in excellent shape and no restoration is necessary. I've decided to retain the original blade in it's current condition and will tag it and set it aside. I've replaced the blade and chipbreaker with a new hock blade and chip breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gave the plane a light coat of wax and she is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up will be one of the #5s.


I was able to see Nickle Creek's last show at the Ryman Auditorium in Nashville…killer.


----------



## WayneC

*Record T5 Technical Jack Plane*

I'm doing another easy plane today. I'm watching Norm build table saw jigs this morning and thought I would get another plane posted before I headed out to turn those pens. 
This is another ebay find. I had been looking for one a while and only seen a couple listed on ebay.

My plan is to use this plane as my miter plane until I can afford a Lie-Nielson or perhaps find one for $5 at a garage sale (one can only hope).










This plane was made in the United Kingdom and was used in schools there to teach woodworking. It has larger sides than a normal #5. This one is in excellent condition except for the fact that it is missing it's side handle. I'm on the hunt for one and if anyone sees one, please let me know.





































To complete this plane, I'm replacing the blade and chipbreaker with a Hock blade. Also applied some 3 in 1 Oil to the moving parts and waxed the plane.










So far I have completed going through 3 planes










This is what I have in the queue



















Also, people may wonder why there are no block planes on my restoration list. This a picture of my smaller planes. As you can see, there is really no restoration needed. I have been looking for a Stanley #18. If I find one, I will add it to the restoration list.


----------



## MSRiverdog

WayneC said:


> *Record T5 Technical Jack Plane*
> 
> I'm doing another easy plane today. I'm watching Norm build table saw jigs this morning and thought I would get another plane posted before I headed out to turn those pens.
> This is another ebay find. I had been looking for one a while and only seen a couple listed on ebay.
> 
> My plan is to use this plane as my miter plane until I can afford a Lie-Nielson or perhaps find one for $5 at a garage sale (one can only hope).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane was made in the United Kingdom and was used in schools there to teach woodworking. It has larger sides than a normal #5. This one is in excellent condition except for the fact that it is missing it's side handle. I'm on the hunt for one and if anyone sees one, please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To complete this plane, I'm replacing the blade and chipbreaker with a Hock blade. Also applied some 3 in 1 Oil to the moving parts and waxed the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far I have completed going through 3 planes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I have in the queue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, people may wonder why there are no block planes on my restoration list. This a picture of my smaller planes. As you can see, there is really no restoration needed. I have been looking for a Stanley #18. If I find one, I will add it to the restoration list.


I used to have one, it's a nice plane, just never used it.


----------



## Moai

WayneC said:


> *Record T5 Technical Jack Plane*
> 
> I'm doing another easy plane today. I'm watching Norm build table saw jigs this morning and thought I would get another plane posted before I headed out to turn those pens.
> This is another ebay find. I had been looking for one a while and only seen a couple listed on ebay.
> 
> My plan is to use this plane as my miter plane until I can afford a Lie-Nielson or perhaps find one for $5 at a garage sale (one can only hope).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane was made in the United Kingdom and was used in schools there to teach woodworking. It has larger sides than a normal #5. This one is in excellent condition except for the fact that it is missing it's side handle. I'm on the hunt for one and if anyone sees one, please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To complete this plane, I'm replacing the blade and chipbreaker with a Hock blade. Also applied some 3 in 1 Oil to the moving parts and waxed the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far I have completed going through 3 planes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I have in the queue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, people may wonder why there are no block planes on my restoration list. This a picture of my smaller planes. As you can see, there is really no restoration needed. I have been looking for a Stanley #18. If I find one, I will add it to the restoration list.


Nice set of planes, the Record looks beautiful, would be nice to make a custom handle for it out of Rosewood or Cocobolo.
My set…...........:-D


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *Record T5 Technical Jack Plane*
> 
> I'm doing another easy plane today. I'm watching Norm build table saw jigs this morning and thought I would get another plane posted before I headed out to turn those pens.
> This is another ebay find. I had been looking for one a while and only seen a couple listed on ebay.
> 
> My plan is to use this plane as my miter plane until I can afford a Lie-Nielson or perhaps find one for $5 at a garage sale (one can only hope).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane was made in the United Kingdom and was used in schools there to teach woodworking. It has larger sides than a normal #5. This one is in excellent condition except for the fact that it is missing it's side handle. I'm on the hunt for one and if anyone sees one, please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To complete this plane, I'm replacing the blade and chipbreaker with a Hock blade. Also applied some 3 in 1 Oil to the moving parts and waxed the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far I have completed going through 3 planes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I have in the queue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, people may wonder why there are no block planes on my restoration list. This a picture of my smaller planes. As you can see, there is really no restoration needed. I have been looking for a Stanley #18. If I find one, I will add it to the restoration list.


Are you happy for the T5?
I have been looking also at this, and thinking to get one.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## jabe

WayneC said:


> *Record T5 Technical Jack Plane*
> 
> I'm doing another easy plane today. I'm watching Norm build table saw jigs this morning and thought I would get another plane posted before I headed out to turn those pens.
> This is another ebay find. I had been looking for one a while and only seen a couple listed on ebay.
> 
> My plan is to use this plane as my miter plane until I can afford a Lie-Nielson or perhaps find one for $5 at a garage sale (one can only hope).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane was made in the United Kingdom and was used in schools there to teach woodworking. It has larger sides than a normal #5. This one is in excellent condition except for the fact that it is missing it's side handle. I'm on the hunt for one and if anyone sees one, please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To complete this plane, I'm replacing the blade and chipbreaker with a Hock blade. Also applied some 3 in 1 Oil to the moving parts and waxed the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far I have completed going through 3 planes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I have in the queue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, people may wonder why there are no block planes on my restoration list. This a picture of my smaller planes. As you can see, there is really no restoration needed. I have been looking for a Stanley #18. If I find one, I will add it to the restoration list.


hi, ive got a t5 record for sale..good condition ..sadlly no side handle


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Record T5 Technical Jack Plane*
> 
> I'm doing another easy plane today. I'm watching Norm build table saw jigs this morning and thought I would get another plane posted before I headed out to turn those pens.
> This is another ebay find. I had been looking for one a while and only seen a couple listed on ebay.
> 
> My plan is to use this plane as my miter plane until I can afford a Lie-Nielson or perhaps find one for $5 at a garage sale (one can only hope).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This plane was made in the United Kingdom and was used in schools there to teach woodworking. It has larger sides than a normal #5. This one is in excellent condition except for the fact that it is missing it's side handle. I'm on the hunt for one and if anyone sees one, please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To complete this plane, I'm replacing the blade and chipbreaker with a Hock blade. Also applied some 3 in 1 Oil to the moving parts and waxed the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far I have completed going through 3 planes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I have in the queue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, people may wonder why there are no block planes on my restoration list. This a picture of my smaller planes. As you can see, there is really no restoration needed. I have been looking for a Stanley #18. If I find one, I will add it to the restoration list.


Better a slow response than no response. If you can find one for a good price it might be worth it. If you get up there then a #6 Stanley, low angle jack plane or others can be more effective.

Any bites on your plane Jabe?


----------



## WayneC

*Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*

Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.










This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.



















Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.

The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.










They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.

Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


----------



## David

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


Wayne -

Sweet! Thanks for posting your new addition. You have quite the growing collection.


----------



## Wooder

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


Yeah, Wayne, your collection is growing! Very nice job on them too!


----------



## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


Great find, Wayne. Glad it got to you in one piece from the seller.


----------



## CarverRog

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


Thanks for posting Wayne. They all look like little soldiers in line and ready for battle. LOL!


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


LOL! They gotta fight that wild wood.

Thanks guys. I'm about 1/3 rd the way through the set and still have to find a few to complete it (1,2, and a 4). The one and two are probably out of my reach. The old ones are too rare and new ones from Lie-Nielson would set me back over $400.

After I get done restoring them, I'll probably build a storage system for them. I like the design of one in the Christoper Schwartz video Course Medium Fine. It mounts on the wall and has storage space for each plane.

Anyone have any good plans for plane storage?


----------



## johnnybwood

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


Hello, Wayne - I recently picked up a plane on eBay for $0.99. I bought it simply because the seller said that it worked. When I pulled it out of its ratty packing and tried it, it worked! It was sort of like a frozen clock - on time twice a day. So I took it apart, soaked it in WD-40, gently tooth-brushed it with Top Saver and - voila! - it works again, but now I can adjust it, and it cuts beautifully. The hardest part of the whole deal was getting the rust off the iron so that I could sharpen it.

As I was healing the patient I kept looking for some marks to ID the make/model. I couldn't find any so I asked the folks at Lee Valley Tools for some ideas. I sent them a bunch of pix of the plane in various states of dis-assembly and described the markings on the iron, frog, base near the tote, etc., etc. So far this edition of Stump the Band has been - Lee Valley 0: JohnB 1. If you wouldn't mind too much, could I send these pix to you and have you take a look at them? And if you do look at them, could you let me know what you think, please? I only ask because my curiosity is up given the inability of a very knowledgeable bunch at Lee Valley to figure this out. I intend to keep the plane as a working tool, but if I need a rider on my insurance policy I'd like to know it.

At any rate, thank you for listening. I hope that I'll hear from you soon.

JWB


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


I would be happy to look at the photos JWB. I will send you a message with my email address.


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


Have you seen Phil's plane cabinet? http://www.philsville.co.uk/planecabinet.htm

Maybe, you've come up with a solution by this point? I'm just trying to get through this blog series!!!


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


Thanks Dorje. I have been reading his blog for quite a while, but had not see the cabinet. Phil had been blogging here as well, but has not been active for a while.


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## keithcruickshank

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


Wayne - my hats off to you on tackling so many planes. I had to pipe in on your Stanley #5.5 restoration. I found a great Bailey #5 that is one of my favorite planes. It too was a basket case (literally, I found it at a junk shop in a wicker basket along with other assorted junk - $25). Turns out it was a 1907 vintage and after some work, it is really a great user plane. I did a short video on how I restored that plane and so while I know that you are now an expert, I thought this video might be useful for others or at least another take on what to do with these old standbys. Anyways, here is is at my personal blog:

http://woodtreks.com/give-your-wood-hand-plane-a-tune-up/19/

Keep up the great postings on your plane collection. I really enjoy it.

Keith


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


Thanks Keith. Your video is great. I'm going to add your web site to my references blog entry.


----------



## knowch

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


where could i find a replacement knife for a bailey/stanley 5 1/4 hand plane. anyone?


----------



## a1Jim

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


Looks sharp ,thats to say great.Nice job


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## hambonez

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


knowch,

Not sure about the 5 1/4 (just getting into planes myself) but maybe http://www.hocktools.com.


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## hammer0630

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


How do you know what year the stanley bailey 5 1/4 plane is approx.? I have one in beautifull condition. I have noticed on ebay the 5 1/4 is rare compared to others. Thanks… Jeff


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bailey #5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane*
> 
> Another long week at work, so I will post another of the planes that is in good shape. This plane is a Stanley Bailey 5 1/4 Junior Jack Plane. I purchased this plane on ebay and it arrived in the mail today. It came with it's original box and is in good shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another plane that was used for training woodworkers. It is 11 1/2"Long, 1 3/4"Wide and weighs 3 3/4lbs. This plane was made from 1921 until 1983 and this one appears to be a more receint model. It came with its original box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically all I did to this plane was to provide a light coat of wax. Hopefully I will get some sharpening done this weekend.
> 
> The following picture shows the planes that have been completed so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are from left to right Stanley #3, Stanley 4 1/2, Stanley 5 1/4 and a Record T5. Also, I found some info on how to make a side handle for the T5. Perhaps I will get to turning one this weekend. I'll post pictures if I get there.
> 
> Today at work we had the going away party for a group of my retireing friends. I presented the pens that I turned last weekend. Everyone was extreamly happy. Anyway have a great weekend.


This one is later, perhaps 70s. I really need to upgrade to a pre-war version. You can tell the type and date range of a Stanley Bench plane by using one of the stanley bench plane type study on the web.

Here are a couple of links to type studies

https://home.comcast.net/~stanleyplanes/planes101/typing/typing.htm 
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/type_study.php


----------



## WayneC

*Stanley Bedrock #605 Jack Plane*

Today was a day with a lot chores to be done, so I picked a plane to rework that required little effort. This is a Stanley Bedrock plane from the mid-1930s. Bedrock planes are Stanley's preimum line of handplanes. They were made in sizes from #2-#8. All of the planes are numbered in the 600 series (e.g. 603, 606, etc.) The early planes had a rounded side similar to normal Stanley Bailey planes. In the early 1900s the planes changed to a more square side as you can see from the photo of this plane. Bedrock Planes have a unique frog adjustment capability. You loosen 2 screws on the rear of the frog to release the frog and then you can use the center screw to adjust the mouth of the plane without removing the blade. The Lie-Nielson bench planes are based on Stanley Bedrock planes.

All I needed to do with this plane was clean it up a bit. Because this plane has collectable value, I replaced the original blade with a Hock Chipbreaker and Iron. I set the original blade aside and will return the blade if I ever decide to sell the plane. This plane was an eBay purchase and cost a little over $100.





































Here are a couple of photos showing the plane after I cleaned it up.



















The following photos show the planes that have been completed so far.


----------



## JohnGray

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock #605 Jack Plane*
> 
> Today was a day with a lot chores to be done, so I picked a plane to rework that required little effort. This is a Stanley Bedrock plane from the mid-1930s. Bedrock planes are Stanley's preimum line of handplanes. They were made in sizes from #2-#8. All of the planes are numbered in the 600 series (e.g. 603, 606, etc.) The early planes had a rounded side similar to normal Stanley Bailey planes. In the early 1900s the planes changed to a more square side as you can see from the photo of this plane. Bedrock Planes have a unique frog adjustment capability. You loosen 2 screws on the rear of the frog to release the frog and then you can use the center screw to adjust the mouth of the plane without removing the blade. The Lie-Nielson bench planes are based on Stanley Bedrock planes.
> 
> All I needed to do with this plane was clean it up a bit. Because this plane has collectable value, I replaced the original blade with a Hock Chipbreaker and Iron. I set the original blade aside and will return the blade if I ever decide to sell the plane. This plane was an eBay purchase and cost a little over $100.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a couple of photos showing the plane after I cleaned it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following photos show the planes that have been completed so far.


*Ya hoo BETTER PICTURES*!!! Keep up the good blog series.


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## Dadoo

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock #605 Jack Plane*
> 
> Today was a day with a lot chores to be done, so I picked a plane to rework that required little effort. This is a Stanley Bedrock plane from the mid-1930s. Bedrock planes are Stanley's preimum line of handplanes. They were made in sizes from #2-#8. All of the planes are numbered in the 600 series (e.g. 603, 606, etc.) The early planes had a rounded side similar to normal Stanley Bailey planes. In the early 1900s the planes changed to a more square side as you can see from the photo of this plane. Bedrock Planes have a unique frog adjustment capability. You loosen 2 screws on the rear of the frog to release the frog and then you can use the center screw to adjust the mouth of the plane without removing the blade. The Lie-Nielson bench planes are based on Stanley Bedrock planes.
> 
> All I needed to do with this plane was clean it up a bit. Because this plane has collectable value, I replaced the original blade with a Hock Chipbreaker and Iron. I set the original blade aside and will return the blade if I ever decide to sell the plane. This plane was an eBay purchase and cost a little over $100.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a couple of photos showing the plane after I cleaned it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following photos show the planes that have been completed so far.


Hey Wayne, I have an old Sargent #714 I recently put back in usuable service. The handles refinished beautifully and now I figure I may as well do the rest right too. What kind of paint would you use? And where can I obtain a new blade at? Mine was ground at an angle over its lifetime and needs be squared or replaced.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock #605 Jack Plane*
> 
> Today was a day with a lot chores to be done, so I picked a plane to rework that required little effort. This is a Stanley Bedrock plane from the mid-1930s. Bedrock planes are Stanley's preimum line of handplanes. They were made in sizes from #2-#8. All of the planes are numbered in the 600 series (e.g. 603, 606, etc.) The early planes had a rounded side similar to normal Stanley Bailey planes. In the early 1900s the planes changed to a more square side as you can see from the photo of this plane. Bedrock Planes have a unique frog adjustment capability. You loosen 2 screws on the rear of the frog to release the frog and then you can use the center screw to adjust the mouth of the plane without removing the blade. The Lie-Nielson bench planes are based on Stanley Bedrock planes.
> 
> All I needed to do with this plane was clean it up a bit. Because this plane has collectable value, I replaced the original blade with a Hock Chipbreaker and Iron. I set the original blade aside and will return the blade if I ever decide to sell the plane. This plane was an eBay purchase and cost a little over $100.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are a couple of photos showing the plane after I cleaned it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The following photos show the planes that have been completed so far.


I try to leave the japanning alone (black coating) as it will affect the collector's value of the plane. There are a number of web resources for how to re-japan a plane. I will look around. All I do is put a clear coat of shellac on the body to protect the parts from rust. I also wax all parts of the plane using a good paste wax.

On blades, I buy ones I see at antique sales and flea markets if they are inexpensive. Woodcraft carries standard replacement blades. On my planes I like to use Hock Blades and chip breakers. They really do an outstanding job. You can see hock blades on 3 of the 4 planes in the photos above. The blades are made from great steel and are thicker than stock blades. This leads to better performance. Lie-Nielson also offers high end replacement blades. Also, depending on how much usable blade you have remaining, your current blade can be reground and sharpened. This can be done on a standard grinder if your careful not to oveheat the the blade. You can grind a 25 degree bevel. Tools like the worksharp can make the process much easier.

This plane performs extereamly well… It is one of my favorites to use when I just want to go into the shop and make shavings…

John, this post was made about the time Martin enhanced the photo display capability and I started to take advantage of it. The rest of my posts should use larger photos.


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## Dadoo

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock #605 Jack Plane*
> 
> Today was a day with a lot chores to be done, so I picked a plane to rework that required little effort. This is a Stanley Bedrock plane from the mid-1930s. Bedrock planes are Stanley's preimum line of handplanes. They were made in sizes from #2-#8. All of the planes are numbered in the 600 series (e.g. 603, 606, etc.) The early planes had a rounded side similar to normal Stanley Bailey planes. In the early 1900s the planes changed to a more square side as you can see from the photo of this plane. Bedrock Planes have a unique frog adjustment capability. You loosen 2 screws on the rear of the frog to release the frog and then you can use the center screw to adjust the mouth of the plane without removing the blade. The Lie-Nielson bench planes are based on Stanley Bedrock planes.
> 
> All I needed to do with this plane was clean it up a bit. Because this plane has collectable value, I replaced the original blade with a Hock Chipbreaker and Iron. I set the original blade aside and will return the blade if I ever decide to sell the plane. This plane was an eBay purchase and cost a little over $100.
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Thanx for the reply. Looks like I'm gonna find someone to professionally reshape and resharped this as (1) I can't seem to find a replacement for the 714 and (2) I know they'll get the angles correct. I have a hard enough time just putting an edge on a lawnmower blade!


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock #605 Jack Plane*
> 
> Today was a day with a lot chores to be done, so I picked a plane to rework that required little effort. This is a Stanley Bedrock plane from the mid-1930s. Bedrock planes are Stanley's preimum line of handplanes. They were made in sizes from #2-#8. All of the planes are numbered in the 600 series (e.g. 603, 606, etc.) The early planes had a rounded side similar to normal Stanley Bailey planes. In the early 1900s the planes changed to a more square side as you can see from the photo of this plane. Bedrock Planes have a unique frog adjustment capability. You loosen 2 screws on the rear of the frog to release the frog and then you can use the center screw to adjust the mouth of the plane without removing the blade. The Lie-Nielson bench planes are based on Stanley Bedrock planes.
> 
> All I needed to do with this plane was clean it up a bit. Because this plane has collectable value, I replaced the original blade with a Hock Chipbreaker and Iron. I set the original blade aside and will return the blade if I ever decide to sell the plane. This plane was an eBay purchase and cost a little over $100.
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Your welcome. I just took a look on the internet and realized the 714 is an auto set plane. I had been assuming it was a strait bench plane. BTW. The one I saw was for sale for $329 or similar.

Finding a replacement blade will be tough. Do you have a woodcraft close by? I belived the one here will sharpen blades. That or you could send it to me and I will sharpen it and send it back. Can you post a few photos of the plane?


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## Bertha

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock #605 Jack Plane*
> 
> Today was a day with a lot chores to be done, so I picked a plane to rework that required little effort. This is a Stanley Bedrock plane from the mid-1930s. Bedrock planes are Stanley's preimum line of handplanes. They were made in sizes from #2-#8. All of the planes are numbered in the 600 series (e.g. 603, 606, etc.) The early planes had a rounded side similar to normal Stanley Bailey planes. In the early 1900s the planes changed to a more square side as you can see from the photo of this plane. Bedrock Planes have a unique frog adjustment capability. You loosen 2 screws on the rear of the frog to release the frog and then you can use the center screw to adjust the mouth of the plane without removing the blade. The Lie-Nielson bench planes are based on Stanley Bedrock planes.
> 
> All I needed to do with this plane was clean it up a bit. Because this plane has collectable value, I replaced the original blade with a Hock Chipbreaker and Iron. I set the original blade aside and will return the blade if I ever decide to sell the plane. This plane was an eBay purchase and cost a little over $100.
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Hooooo Raaaaaaah!


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock #605 Jack Plane*
> 
> Today was a day with a lot chores to be done, so I picked a plane to rework that required little effort. This is a Stanley Bedrock plane from the mid-1930s. Bedrock planes are Stanley's preimum line of handplanes. They were made in sizes from #2-#8. All of the planes are numbered in the 600 series (e.g. 603, 606, etc.) The early planes had a rounded side similar to normal Stanley Bailey planes. In the early 1900s the planes changed to a more square side as you can see from the photo of this plane. Bedrock Planes have a unique frog adjustment capability. You loosen 2 screws on the rear of the frog to release the frog and then you can use the center screw to adjust the mouth of the plane without removing the blade. The Lie-Nielson bench planes are based on Stanley Bedrock planes.
> 
> All I needed to do with this plane was clean it up a bit. Because this plane has collectable value, I replaced the original blade with a Hock Chipbreaker and Iron. I set the original blade aside and will return the blade if I ever decide to sell the plane. This plane was an eBay purchase and cost a little over $100.
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: ^ )


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## WayneC

*New Candidates*

Today is Mothers day. To cellibrate, the family and I went to the monthly antique sale. and I thought I would document the day's find. This antique sale is fairly large and makes for a good family outing. There is a little something for everyone. I did miss one item that made me wish I had been there a little earlier. It was a large, highly figured and very beautiful lignum vitae mallet. Such is life.

I was looking for router planes and also perhaps a scrub plane to add to the set. Hopefully a Stanley 271 or a #140 if I were to get lucky. The following is what I was able to find.










A #71 Stanley Router Plane, a Stanley #95 RH Edge Plane, a lignum vitae mallet and a small handle for taps or similar use.

Here are some more photos


















































The mallet is marked Hati on the end. I also found a nice set of trammel points that I did not take pictures of. Everyone in the family found some treasures as well. All in all not a bad day.


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## Karson

WayneC said:


> *New Candidates*
> 
> Today is Mothers day. To cellibrate, the family and I went to the monthly antique sale. and I thought I would document the day's find. This antique sale is fairly large and makes for a good family outing. There is a little something for everyone. I did miss one item that made me wish I had been there a little earlier. It was a large, highly figured and very beautiful lignum vitae mallet. Such is life.
> 
> I was looking for router planes and also perhaps a scrub plane to add to the set. Hopefully a Stanley 271 or a #140 if I were to get lucky. The following is what I was able to find.
> 
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> A #71 Stanley Router Plane, a Stanley #95 RH Edge Plane, a lignum vitae mallet and a small handle for taps or similar use.
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> The mallet is marked Hati on the end. I also found a nice set of trammel points that I did not take pictures of. Everyone in the family found some treasures as well. All in all not a bad day.


Good purchase. They look like users to me without any restoration. Sharpen and go.


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## Chipncut

WayneC said:


> *New Candidates*
> 
> Today is Mothers day. To cellibrate, the family and I went to the monthly antique sale. and I thought I would document the day's find. This antique sale is fairly large and makes for a good family outing. There is a little something for everyone. I did miss one item that made me wish I had been there a little earlier. It was a large, highly figured and very beautiful lignum vitae mallet. Such is life.
> 
> I was looking for router planes and also perhaps a scrub plane to add to the set. Hopefully a Stanley 271 or a #140 if I were to get lucky. The following is what I was able to find.
> 
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> A #71 Stanley Router Plane, a Stanley #95 RH Edge Plane, a lignum vitae mallet and a small handle for taps or similar use.
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I could almost see your big smile reflecting off of the tools.


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## woodspar

WayneC said:


> *New Candidates*
> 
> Today is Mothers day. To cellibrate, the family and I went to the monthly antique sale. and I thought I would document the day's find. This antique sale is fairly large and makes for a good family outing. There is a little something for everyone. I did miss one item that made me wish I had been there a little earlier. It was a large, highly figured and very beautiful lignum vitae mallet. Such is life.
> 
> I was looking for router planes and also perhaps a scrub plane to add to the set. Hopefully a Stanley 271 or a #140 if I were to get lucky. The following is what I was able to find.
> 
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> A #71 Stanley Router Plane, a Stanley #95 RH Edge Plane, a lignum vitae mallet and a small handle for taps or similar use.
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Nice, and nice pix. Thanks for posting.


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## David

WayneC said:


> *New Candidates*
> 
> Today is Mothers day. To cellibrate, the family and I went to the monthly antique sale. and I thought I would document the day's find. This antique sale is fairly large and makes for a good family outing. There is a little something for everyone. I did miss one item that made me wish I had been there a little earlier. It was a large, highly figured and very beautiful lignum vitae mallet. Such is life.
> 
> I was looking for router planes and also perhaps a scrub plane to add to the set. Hopefully a Stanley 271 or a #140 if I were to get lucky. The following is what I was able to find.
> 
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> A #71 Stanley Router Plane, a Stanley #95 RH Edge Plane, a lignum vitae mallet and a small handle for taps or similar use.
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Wayne -

Well, I struck out in Sisters this weekend - no tools. My son did find an old Roman coin for his collection so it wasn't a total loss. He spent the money he earned helping to spread bark and tend the debris fires.

Looks like I will have to book an antique tool shopping trip with you! Congratulations on the new additions to your collection. Great looking tools and great photos! Thanks for sharing.


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## TheKiltedWoodworker

WayneC said:


> *New Candidates*
> 
> Today is Mothers day. To cellibrate, the family and I went to the monthly antique sale. and I thought I would document the day's find. This antique sale is fairly large and makes for a good family outing. There is a little something for everyone. I did miss one item that made me wish I had been there a little earlier. It was a large, highly figured and very beautiful lignum vitae mallet. Such is life.
> 
> I was looking for router planes and also perhaps a scrub plane to add to the set. Hopefully a Stanley 271 or a #140 if I were to get lucky. The following is what I was able to find.
> 
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Wayne,

I have some major antique/tool sale envy. Unfortunately, I have to drive a good hour over to Illinois to get to the best local once-a-month antique and tool sale.

Looks like a great Mother's Day haul!


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Candidates*
> 
> Today is Mothers day. To cellibrate, the family and I went to the monthly antique sale. and I thought I would document the day's find. This antique sale is fairly large and makes for a good family outing. There is a little something for everyone. I did miss one item that made me wish I had been there a little earlier. It was a large, highly figured and very beautiful lignum vitae mallet. Such is life.
> 
> I was looking for router planes and also perhaps a scrub plane to add to the set. Hopefully a Stanley 271 or a #140 if I were to get lucky. The following is what I was able to find.
> 
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> A #71 Stanley Router Plane, a Stanley #95 RH Edge Plane, a lignum vitae mallet and a small handle for taps or similar use.
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Thanks.

Ethan, I guessing there are probably some good local areas to hunt. I was thinking of you when I saw the Mallet that sold. It was right up your alley. It went for $35. Lignum and highly figured.


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## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *New Candidates*
> 
> Today is Mothers day. To cellibrate, the family and I went to the monthly antique sale. and I thought I would document the day's find. This antique sale is fairly large and makes for a good family outing. There is a little something for everyone. I did miss one item that made me wish I had been there a little earlier. It was a large, highly figured and very beautiful lignum vitae mallet. Such is life.
> 
> I was looking for router planes and also perhaps a scrub plane to add to the set. Hopefully a Stanley 271 or a #140 if I were to get lucky. The following is what I was able to find.
> 
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> A #71 Stanley Router Plane, a Stanley #95 RH Edge Plane, a lignum vitae mallet and a small handle for taps or similar use.
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Wow - you were able to find some great old tools! You found a router plane! How do you do it? Any suggestions on how to track down the "right" kind of antique sales - or are they generic anitique sales put on by a big company???


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Candidates*
> 
> Today is Mothers day. To cellibrate, the family and I went to the monthly antique sale. and I thought I would document the day's find. This antique sale is fairly large and makes for a good family outing. There is a little something for everyone. I did miss one item that made me wish I had been there a little earlier. It was a large, highly figured and very beautiful lignum vitae mallet. Such is life.
> 
> I was looking for router planes and also perhaps a scrub plane to add to the set. Hopefully a Stanley 271 or a #140 if I were to get lucky. The following is what I was able to find.
> 
> 
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> A #71 Stanley Router Plane, a Stanley #95 RH Edge Plane, a lignum vitae mallet and a small handle for taps or similar use.
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I prefer Antique street sales. Local communities do them a couple of times a year. I also walk through antique stores, but most of what you see is not useable or is over priced.


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## mot

WayneC said:


> *New Candidates*
> 
> Today is Mothers day. To cellibrate, the family and I went to the monthly antique sale. and I thought I would document the day's find. This antique sale is fairly large and makes for a good family outing. There is a little something for everyone. I did miss one item that made me wish I had been there a little earlier. It was a large, highly figured and very beautiful lignum vitae mallet. Such is life.
> 
> I was looking for router planes and also perhaps a scrub plane to add to the set. Hopefully a Stanley 271 or a #140 if I were to get lucky. The following is what I was able to find.
> 
> 
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> A #71 Stanley Router Plane, a Stanley #95 RH Edge Plane, a lignum vitae mallet and a small handle for taps or similar use.
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I don't know how I missed this one, Wayne, but I'm currently going back to the beginning and reading through this entire series. I've read alot of them, but I have to go back to the beginning!


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## JohnGray

WayneC said:


> *New Candidates*
> 
> Today is Mothers day. To cellibrate, the family and I went to the monthly antique sale. and I thought I would document the day's find. This antique sale is fairly large and makes for a good family outing. There is a little something for everyone. I did miss one item that made me wish I had been there a little earlier. It was a large, highly figured and very beautiful lignum vitae mallet. Such is life.
> 
> I was looking for router planes and also perhaps a scrub plane to add to the set. Hopefully a Stanley 271 or a #140 if I were to get lucky. The following is what I was able to find.
> 
> 
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> A #71 Stanley Router Plane, a Stanley #95 RH Edge Plane, a lignum vitae mallet and a small handle for taps or similar use.
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Nice finds!!!!!!!!


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## rodman40

WayneC said:


> *New Candidates*
> 
> Today is Mothers day. To cellibrate, the family and I went to the monthly antique sale. and I thought I would document the day's find. This antique sale is fairly large and makes for a good family outing. There is a little something for everyone. I did miss one item that made me wish I had been there a little earlier. It was a large, highly figured and very beautiful lignum vitae mallet. Such is life.
> 
> I was looking for router planes and also perhaps a scrub plane to add to the set. Hopefully a Stanley 271 or a #140 if I were to get lucky. The following is what I was able to find.
> 
> 
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> 
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> A #71 Stanley Router Plane, a Stanley #95 RH Edge Plane, a lignum vitae mallet and a small handle for taps or similar use.
> 
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> 
> The mallet is marked Hati on the end. I also found a nice set of trammel points that I did not take pictures of. Everyone in the family found some treasures as well. All in all not a bad day.
























































































































Wayne, Do you know of any tutorials on video of how to use the router plane, like how to sharpen it and how to plane with it. Where do you find cutters for these planes? Haves somes pics of a plne that belonged to my Father-in-law which I restored recently, thanks in advance.


----------



## WayneC

*Aw Screw it*

I have not been working on this series or any real projects for that matter for quit a while. I have been working very long hours at my day job and really not feeling too motivated. Perhaps I caught some of that bug that was affecting Mot a bit back.

I have a nice early type 9 or so Stanley #4 I want to restore as part of the set I am putting together. You can go back to post one to see my overall plans if you want, but, iin a nutshell, I plan to assemble a complete set of old Stanley Bench planes. Number 1 to number 8 and all of the odd sizes in between.

I purchased the Stanlye #4 off of ebay a little while back. It has a broken tote, which is easy to repair and then upon further inspection I discovered that the blade adjustment knob is frozen. I'm not sure I will be able to repair it and I guess I may need to find a approprate parts plane and replace the frog.

Anyway last weekend, I was in woodcraft getting my father's day present. I've shown pictures of it elsewhere, but will show a photo again here in the event you missed it.










It is a Lie-Nielson #1 and it is sitting next to my #8 to show the difference in size between the smallest and largest bench plane. While I was looking at the #1, I saw that Woodcraft had the #4s on sale and decided to screw the plans to have all old Stanleys and buy myself a birthday present (I had already conceded on the idea of original Stanley Bailey #1 and #2s because of cost). This was last Sunday. Tonight I grapped the WorkSharp and sharpened the blade and put the plane to work. Here are some photos of it in action. It is a sweet plane and the experience of making paper thin shavings makes it worth every penny.





































I now have every plane in the series except for the #2. I'm guessing this will be another Lie-Nielson unless I get lucky along the way. I have restored the planes up through the #5. I have the 5 1/2, 6, 7, and #8 to go. Anyway have a great night.


----------



## Obi

WayneC said:


> *Aw Screw it*
> 
> I have not been working on this series or any real projects for that matter for quit a while. I have been working very long hours at my day job and really not feeling too motivated. Perhaps I caught some of that bug that was affecting Mot a bit back.
> 
> I have a nice early type 9 or so Stanley #4 I want to restore as part of the set I am putting together. You can go back to post one to see my overall plans if you want, but, iin a nutshell, I plan to assemble a complete set of old Stanley Bench planes. Number 1 to number 8 and all of the odd sizes in between.
> 
> I purchased the Stanlye #4 off of ebay a little while back. It has a broken tote, which is easy to repair and then upon further inspection I discovered that the blade adjustment knob is frozen. I'm not sure I will be able to repair it and I guess I may need to find a approprate parts plane and replace the frog.
> 
> Anyway last weekend, I was in woodcraft getting my father's day present. I've shown pictures of it elsewhere, but will show a photo again here in the event you missed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a Lie-Nielson #1 and it is sitting next to my #8 to show the difference in size between the smallest and largest bench plane. While I was looking at the #1, I saw that Woodcraft had the #4s on sale and decided to screw the plans to have all old Stanleys and buy myself a birthday present (I had already conceded on the idea of original Stanley Bailey #1 and #2s because of cost). This was last Sunday. Tonight I grapped the WorkSharp and sharpened the blade and put the plane to work. Here are some photos of it in action. It is a sweet plane and the experience of making paper thin shavings makes it worth every penny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now have every plane in the series except for the #2. I'm guessing this will be another Lie-Nielson unless I get lucky along the way. I have restored the planes up through the #5. I have the 5 1/2, 6, 7, and #8 to go. Anyway have a great night.


them's perdy… I want a smoother… and the worksharp.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Aw Screw it*
> 
> I have not been working on this series or any real projects for that matter for quit a while. I have been working very long hours at my day job and really not feeling too motivated. Perhaps I caught some of that bug that was affecting Mot a bit back.
> 
> I have a nice early type 9 or so Stanley #4 I want to restore as part of the set I am putting together. You can go back to post one to see my overall plans if you want, but, iin a nutshell, I plan to assemble a complete set of old Stanley Bench planes. Number 1 to number 8 and all of the odd sizes in between.
> 
> I purchased the Stanlye #4 off of ebay a little while back. It has a broken tote, which is easy to repair and then upon further inspection I discovered that the blade adjustment knob is frozen. I'm not sure I will be able to repair it and I guess I may need to find a approprate parts plane and replace the frog.
> 
> Anyway last weekend, I was in woodcraft getting my father's day present. I've shown pictures of it elsewhere, but will show a photo again here in the event you missed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a Lie-Nielson #1 and it is sitting next to my #8 to show the difference in size between the smallest and largest bench plane. While I was looking at the #1, I saw that Woodcraft had the #4s on sale and decided to screw the plans to have all old Stanleys and buy myself a birthday present (I had already conceded on the idea of original Stanley Bailey #1 and #2s because of cost). This was last Sunday. Tonight I grapped the WorkSharp and sharpened the blade and put the plane to work. Here are some photos of it in action. It is a sweet plane and the experience of making paper thin shavings makes it worth every penny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now have every plane in the series except for the #2. I'm guessing this will be another Lie-Nielson unless I get lucky along the way. I have restored the planes up through the #5. I have the 5 1/2, 6, 7, and #8 to go. Anyway have a great night.


Next time I come down, I bring a few planes for you to try out and the WorkSharp. The trip to Singapore got called off. So, I'm around.


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## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Aw Screw it*
> 
> I have not been working on this series or any real projects for that matter for quit a while. I have been working very long hours at my day job and really not feeling too motivated. Perhaps I caught some of that bug that was affecting Mot a bit back.
> 
> I have a nice early type 9 or so Stanley #4 I want to restore as part of the set I am putting together. You can go back to post one to see my overall plans if you want, but, iin a nutshell, I plan to assemble a complete set of old Stanley Bench planes. Number 1 to number 8 and all of the odd sizes in between.
> 
> I purchased the Stanlye #4 off of ebay a little while back. It has a broken tote, which is easy to repair and then upon further inspection I discovered that the blade adjustment knob is frozen. I'm not sure I will be able to repair it and I guess I may need to find a approprate parts plane and replace the frog.
> 
> Anyway last weekend, I was in woodcraft getting my father's day present. I've shown pictures of it elsewhere, but will show a photo again here in the event you missed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a Lie-Nielson #1 and it is sitting next to my #8 to show the difference in size between the smallest and largest bench plane. While I was looking at the #1, I saw that Woodcraft had the #4s on sale and decided to screw the plans to have all old Stanleys and buy myself a birthday present (I had already conceded on the idea of original Stanley Bailey #1 and #2s because of cost). This was last Sunday. Tonight I grapped the WorkSharp and sharpened the blade and put the plane to work. Here are some photos of it in action. It is a sweet plane and the experience of making paper thin shavings makes it worth every penny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now have every plane in the series except for the #2. I'm guessing this will be another Lie-Nielson unless I get lucky along the way. I have restored the planes up through the #5. I have the 5 1/2, 6, 7, and #8 to go. Anyway have a great night.


Happy Birthday - and a good looking present to self! Or, was that a, "birthday" present. I bought the #62 for my birthday last week! On the smooth plane front, I've been using a pretty beat up old Stanley #4 (and that's after getting all the rust off and tuning it up!). I'm pretty interested in the LN #4 too, which'll probably be my next plane purchase.


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## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Aw Screw it*
> 
> I have not been working on this series or any real projects for that matter for quit a while. I have been working very long hours at my day job and really not feeling too motivated. Perhaps I caught some of that bug that was affecting Mot a bit back.
> 
> I have a nice early type 9 or so Stanley #4 I want to restore as part of the set I am putting together. You can go back to post one to see my overall plans if you want, but, iin a nutshell, I plan to assemble a complete set of old Stanley Bench planes. Number 1 to number 8 and all of the odd sizes in between.
> 
> I purchased the Stanlye #4 off of ebay a little while back. It has a broken tote, which is easy to repair and then upon further inspection I discovered that the blade adjustment knob is frozen. I'm not sure I will be able to repair it and I guess I may need to find a approprate parts plane and replace the frog.
> 
> Anyway last weekend, I was in woodcraft getting my father's day present. I've shown pictures of it elsewhere, but will show a photo again here in the event you missed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a Lie-Nielson #1 and it is sitting next to my #8 to show the difference in size between the smallest and largest bench plane. While I was looking at the #1, I saw that Woodcraft had the #4s on sale and decided to screw the plans to have all old Stanleys and buy myself a birthday present (I had already conceded on the idea of original Stanley Bailey #1 and #2s because of cost). This was last Sunday. Tonight I grapped the WorkSharp and sharpened the blade and put the plane to work. Here are some photos of it in action. It is a sweet plane and the experience of making paper thin shavings makes it worth every penny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now have every plane in the series except for the #2. I'm guessing this will be another Lie-Nielson unless I get lucky along the way. I have restored the planes up through the #5. I have the 5 1/2, 6, 7, and #8 to go. Anyway have a great night.


Well, well, well… I stayed up late getting caught up on this series (and exploring all it's offshoots!). I sure am glad that you didn't give up on it back at - whenever that was!

So, any ideas for a plane cabinet yet???


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Aw Screw it*
> 
> I have not been working on this series or any real projects for that matter for quit a while. I have been working very long hours at my day job and really not feeling too motivated. Perhaps I caught some of that bug that was affecting Mot a bit back.
> 
> I have a nice early type 9 or so Stanley #4 I want to restore as part of the set I am putting together. You can go back to post one to see my overall plans if you want, but, iin a nutshell, I plan to assemble a complete set of old Stanley Bench planes. Number 1 to number 8 and all of the odd sizes in between.
> 
> I purchased the Stanlye #4 off of ebay a little while back. It has a broken tote, which is easy to repair and then upon further inspection I discovered that the blade adjustment knob is frozen. I'm not sure I will be able to repair it and I guess I may need to find a approprate parts plane and replace the frog.
> 
> Anyway last weekend, I was in woodcraft getting my father's day present. I've shown pictures of it elsewhere, but will show a photo again here in the event you missed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a Lie-Nielson #1 and it is sitting next to my #8 to show the difference in size between the smallest and largest bench plane. While I was looking at the #1, I saw that Woodcraft had the #4s on sale and decided to screw the plans to have all old Stanleys and buy myself a birthday present (I had already conceded on the idea of original Stanley Bailey #1 and #2s because of cost). This was last Sunday. Tonight I grapped the WorkSharp and sharpened the blade and put the plane to work. Here are some photos of it in action. It is a sweet plane and the experience of making paper thin shavings makes it worth every penny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now have every plane in the series except for the #2. I'm guessing this will be another Lie-Nielson unless I get lucky along the way. I have restored the planes up through the #5. I have the 5 1/2, 6, 7, and #8 to go. Anyway have a great night.


Thanks for going back and reading the series. I have not started on the cabinet. I saw one in a Chris Schwartz video I like but have not settled on a final design. I need to get going pretty soon. I need my bench back. I'm running to work at the moment and will write more later.


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## Karson

WayneC said:


> *Aw Screw it*
> 
> I have not been working on this series or any real projects for that matter for quit a while. I have been working very long hours at my day job and really not feeling too motivated. Perhaps I caught some of that bug that was affecting Mot a bit back.
> 
> I have a nice early type 9 or so Stanley #4 I want to restore as part of the set I am putting together. You can go back to post one to see my overall plans if you want, but, iin a nutshell, I plan to assemble a complete set of old Stanley Bench planes. Number 1 to number 8 and all of the odd sizes in between.
> 
> I purchased the Stanlye #4 off of ebay a little while back. It has a broken tote, which is easy to repair and then upon further inspection I discovered that the blade adjustment knob is frozen. I'm not sure I will be able to repair it and I guess I may need to find a approprate parts plane and replace the frog.
> 
> Anyway last weekend, I was in woodcraft getting my father's day present. I've shown pictures of it elsewhere, but will show a photo again here in the event you missed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a Lie-Nielson #1 and it is sitting next to my #8 to show the difference in size between the smallest and largest bench plane. While I was looking at the #1, I saw that Woodcraft had the #4s on sale and decided to screw the plans to have all old Stanleys and buy myself a birthday present (I had already conceded on the idea of original Stanley Bailey #1 and #2s because of cost). This was last Sunday. Tonight I grapped the WorkSharp and sharpened the blade and put the plane to work. Here are some photos of it in action. It is a sweet plane and the experience of making paper thin shavings makes it worth every penny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now have every plane in the series except for the #2. I'm guessing this will be another Lie-Nielson unless I get lucky along the way. I have restored the planes up through the #5. I have the 5 1/2, 6, 7, and #8 to go. Anyway have a great night.


Nice looking little plane Wayne.


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## mot

WayneC said:


> *Aw Screw it*
> 
> I have not been working on this series or any real projects for that matter for quit a while. I have been working very long hours at my day job and really not feeling too motivated. Perhaps I caught some of that bug that was affecting Mot a bit back.
> 
> I have a nice early type 9 or so Stanley #4 I want to restore as part of the set I am putting together. You can go back to post one to see my overall plans if you want, but, iin a nutshell, I plan to assemble a complete set of old Stanley Bench planes. Number 1 to number 8 and all of the odd sizes in between.
> 
> I purchased the Stanlye #4 off of ebay a little while back. It has a broken tote, which is easy to repair and then upon further inspection I discovered that the blade adjustment knob is frozen. I'm not sure I will be able to repair it and I guess I may need to find a approprate parts plane and replace the frog.
> 
> Anyway last weekend, I was in woodcraft getting my father's day present. I've shown pictures of it elsewhere, but will show a photo again here in the event you missed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a Lie-Nielson #1 and it is sitting next to my #8 to show the difference in size between the smallest and largest bench plane. While I was looking at the #1, I saw that Woodcraft had the #4s on sale and decided to screw the plans to have all old Stanleys and buy myself a birthday present (I had already conceded on the idea of original Stanley Bailey #1 and #2s because of cost). This was last Sunday. Tonight I grapped the WorkSharp and sharpened the blade and put the plane to work. Here are some photos of it in action. It is a sweet plane and the experience of making paper thin shavings makes it worth every penny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now have every plane in the series except for the #2. I'm guessing this will be another Lie-Nielson unless I get lucky along the way. I have restored the planes up through the #5. I have the 5 1/2, 6, 7, and #8 to go. Anyway have a great night.


Nice! I love those LN planes. The restoration series has been a good one. I went down to the shop, and spent 2 1/2 hours just cleaning last night. I'm hoping that will give me the motivation to do some work down there. I even tackled, "the corner!" Happy B-day by the way!


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## jockmike2

WayneC said:


> *Aw Screw it*
> 
> I have not been working on this series or any real projects for that matter for quit a while. I have been working very long hours at my day job and really not feeling too motivated. Perhaps I caught some of that bug that was affecting Mot a bit back.
> 
> I have a nice early type 9 or so Stanley #4 I want to restore as part of the set I am putting together. You can go back to post one to see my overall plans if you want, but, iin a nutshell, I plan to assemble a complete set of old Stanley Bench planes. Number 1 to number 8 and all of the odd sizes in between.
> 
> I purchased the Stanlye #4 off of ebay a little while back. It has a broken tote, which is easy to repair and then upon further inspection I discovered that the blade adjustment knob is frozen. I'm not sure I will be able to repair it and I guess I may need to find a approprate parts plane and replace the frog.
> 
> Anyway last weekend, I was in woodcraft getting my father's day present. I've shown pictures of it elsewhere, but will show a photo again here in the event you missed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a Lie-Nielson #1 and it is sitting next to my #8 to show the difference in size between the smallest and largest bench plane. While I was looking at the #1, I saw that Woodcraft had the #4s on sale and decided to screw the plans to have all old Stanleys and buy myself a birthday present (I had already conceded on the idea of original Stanley Bailey #1 and #2s because of cost). This was last Sunday. Tonight I grapped the WorkSharp and sharpened the blade and put the plane to work. Here are some photos of it in action. It is a sweet plane and the experience of making paper thin shavings makes it worth every penny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now have every plane in the series except for the #2. I'm guessing this will be another Lie-Nielson unless I get lucky along the way. I have restored the planes up through the #5. I have the 5 1/2, 6, 7, and #8 to go. Anyway have a great night.


nice plane Wayne, I've got this old thing I gotta take a picture of and see if you can tell me what it is. I got it in a box o junk when I bought my lathe. Happy Bday. Mine was the seventh of June. jockmike


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Aw Screw it*
> 
> I have not been working on this series or any real projects for that matter for quit a while. I have been working very long hours at my day job and really not feeling too motivated. Perhaps I caught some of that bug that was affecting Mot a bit back.
> 
> I have a nice early type 9 or so Stanley #4 I want to restore as part of the set I am putting together. You can go back to post one to see my overall plans if you want, but, iin a nutshell, I plan to assemble a complete set of old Stanley Bench planes. Number 1 to number 8 and all of the odd sizes in between.
> 
> I purchased the Stanlye #4 off of ebay a little while back. It has a broken tote, which is easy to repair and then upon further inspection I discovered that the blade adjustment knob is frozen. I'm not sure I will be able to repair it and I guess I may need to find a approprate parts plane and replace the frog.
> 
> Anyway last weekend, I was in woodcraft getting my father's day present. I've shown pictures of it elsewhere, but will show a photo again here in the event you missed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a Lie-Nielson #1 and it is sitting next to my #8 to show the difference in size between the smallest and largest bench plane. While I was looking at the #1, I saw that Woodcraft had the #4s on sale and decided to screw the plans to have all old Stanleys and buy myself a birthday present (I had already conceded on the idea of original Stanley Bailey #1 and #2s because of cost). This was last Sunday. Tonight I grapped the WorkSharp and sharpened the blade and put the plane to work. Here are some photos of it in action. It is a sweet plane and the experience of making paper thin shavings makes it worth every penny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now have every plane in the series except for the #2. I'm guessing this will be another Lie-Nielson unless I get lucky along the way. I have restored the planes up through the #5. I have the 5 1/2, 6, 7, and #8 to go. Anyway have a great night.


Thanks guys. My B'day is actually tomorrow. I'm hoping to give myself the gift of some shop time.

Dorje, I looked real hard at the #62 and have also been looking real hard at the #140. I keep hoping to find a Stanley #140 in a box of block planes for $5 or so but no luck so far. I decided to stick with completing the set of bench planes and went that way. Also, I looked real hard at the #9. I've been wanting a true miter plane for a while.


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## WayneC

*Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*

I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.

This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.

Here are some before photos.




























The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart




























Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.










One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.










Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.



















It cuts rabbets quickly….










Have a wonderful weekend….


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## Treefarmer

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
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> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


Sweet Wayne. I've started keeping my eyes out for some planes and chisels to restore. I'd like to focus on my handtool work more and you've inspired me to start restoring some. You can expect some questions.


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## Karson

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
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> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
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> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
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> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
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> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


Great Job Wayne. I need to find a Flea Market or two around.


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## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
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> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
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> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


I still don't understand how you find so many cool tools!

Wayne- I have a question for you concerning 78s. I have a newer Stanley 78. The fence is not square to the sole and thus it makes a tapered rabbet cut! Any ideas on how to remedy this? I did try referencing the sole on a trued up (square) piece of stock, with sandpaper on the side to abrade the fence square. Well, I didn't stick with that for long - Any other ideas?


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
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> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


I was thinking getting square cuts was a matter of technique. The more I use it the better I get. But the link above indicates blade setting plays a big role in getting a square cut. I'm not sure if you had time to read it, but it is pretty interesting.


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## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


I'll check out the link -

Skill aside, the blade is razor sharp and plane is easy to use; it cuts a real clean rabbet. It's my reference, the fence, that is out of square the exact amount of how out of square the rabbet gets cut. Sure, I could angle it to get a square(-er) cut to adjust for the fence that's not true, but I believe that the purpose of the fence on this plane is to set the width of the rabbet and to ensure a square cut.

I'll probably try to keep sanding til I get the fence square to the sole.


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


Here is a link to a users guide for the #78. It does not address this issue, but may be of general interest. I'll do some digging around I belive there is also some info in Michalel Dunbar's book on the 78. I'll take a look after dinner and post if there is some more info.


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


I checked Michael's book and nothing specific about getting square results other than making sure the body of the plane (side and sole) are square. He indicates the fence is used to determine the width of the rabbet. I'm going to play around with it some more and do some additional research. Let me know if you find out anything.


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## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


Thank you Wayne for digging into this with me - I've asked around and I haven't really recieved this level of interest. I really appreciate it!

The users guide link is good, but like you said, it doesn't address what we're talking about. I'm thinking that I may have have some info on the 78 in fairly basic, though decent, hand tool book by Peter Korn. I'll check! Should we move this into a forum topic on the 78 or stick with what we've got going here?

Also, I'll check the sole to side squareness, but I'm just so convinced that the fence is the problem. In one of the pictures in the users guide link it does show an arrow which indicates pushing the fence against the workpiece while pushing forward…

Thanks again!


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## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


Wayne -

I checked sole to sides for square, one is dead on, the other a hair off, but it doesn't seem to affect the wall of the rabbet that is referenced by that side (the right -I believe).

Also, in the Peter Korn book on hand tools, he states that after you get your fence and depth stop set up for the dimension you are to cut, "start planing with the fence flat against the work." So, when I do that, I get a not so square rabbet.

Here are some photos of what I've described…

These are a couple shots with a little square referenced on the sole to show the how far out the fence is:


















Here's the rabbet cut when I use the fence as a reference against the side (sorry about the blur, though the silhouette tells the story:









Now taking into consideration what you stated above re: technique, I am able to correct the cut and get a square rabbet (but I really think that the fence ought to be my reference and my guide to a square finished rabbet):


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


I think your on to it. I just checked mine and there is not gap at all. I don't have time to take any photos this morning. I would think about checking the post that the fence rides on to see if it may be bent. If bent, you could order a replacement from Stanley for a few dollars I belive. If it is strait, then perhaps a mill file and some lapping with sand paper is in order.


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


Yes! I'll see if I can't rig up a jig to file the fence down first! Thanks Wayne! That should speed up the process! I did check the post on a straightedge and it does seem to be okay. I hadn't thought of running the fence on a file yet (only sandpaper), so I think that you've nailed it! I'll get this thing tuned up yet! I'm starting to visualize the jig…


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## WildGoose

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


Where do you get the part that include the thumb bolts, the crew in smooth shaft and the side bracket that screws in?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


You can try the Stanley Parts page. The ones on this plane were original to the plane and came with it when I purchased it. Sometimes you can find spare parts on ebay.

http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/planes-rabbetplanes-12-078duplexrabbet.html

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=stanley+78&category0=


----------



## b2rtch

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


I have an identical plane that I bring from France with me (!!!). 
The one that I have was made in England and since I am in the the USA I moved many many time and I lost the fence.
I was reading about this plane on the Internet this morning, this plane is made, without any change, since 1885.
It is said that it made a fortune for Stanley. 
I wonder if the person who designed it had a share of this fortune and a medal or something.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


I would be surprised if they did. You should be able to find a replacement fence on ebay or you could order one from Stanley if you want to replace it.


----------



## b2rtch

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


YESTERDAY AFTER WRITING MY MESSAGE, I LOOKED IN MY STUFF AND LO AND BEHOLD , I FOUND ALL THE PARTS i THOUGHT WERE GONE.
I now have a complete plane.
I noticed how poorly machined this plane is.
The sole is especially bad, the machining is very rough. 
I spent yesterday working on this plane, flattering and finishing the sole to 15 microns and sharpening and polishing the blade to 0.05 micron and polishing and painting the whole thing.
Much better than new.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


Good to see you have it back in working shape.


----------



## b2rtch

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


Thank you Wayne. 
The question is : will I use it?
I did not used it in the past, I might give it try just to try it.


----------



## swank

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #78 Duplex filletster and rabbet plane*
> 
> I'm straying a little from the bench planes today and documenting the restoration of a Stanley #78 Duplex Filletster and Rabbet Plane. I found this plane at the flea market last weekend and had been wanting to play with one. This one was in fairly good condition and was complete. Many of these planes that you find are missing parts. Things to look for are the depth stop, fence, and 3 blade spur.
> 
> This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. This plane was made after 1925 given the lever that is used to adjust the blade. A good post on how to tune this planes can be found on the Australian Woodworking Forums.
> 
> Here are some before photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step was to disassemble the plane. Here are some photos of it apart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I removed any rust from various parts with abrasive blocks and then applied a coat of schallac to all of the japanned (black) parts. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. If needed it can be removed with denatured alcohol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One trick I use to to clean up screws in a drill chuck on the lathe. I use abrasive blocks while the lathe is spinning. I does a good job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to assemble and test the plane. I sharpened the blade earlier in the week, so it is good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It cuts rabbets quickly….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a wonderful weekend….


Hi,

I've been looking at getting one of these, and know to look for the depth stop and fence…but can you explain wht the "3 blade spur " is?

Thanks1


----------



## WayneC

*Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*

Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.

http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf

Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.



I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.

Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.



I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.



Here is what they looked like once they came out…



After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.

Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


----------



## PanamaJack

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Wayne, Thanks for this article. I just picked up 5 planes at a flea market this past weekend. Three of which need a little attention as this one you got. This will help immensely. Looks like it works really well.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Your welcome PanamaJack. What kind of planes did you get?


----------



## Treefarmer

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Wow….very nice…whodah thunk it?


----------



## PanamaJack

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Well…Good question Wayne. I don't know anything about Planes, but here goes:

This guy claimed one to be a "*Sears Craftsman*", however it has *Dunlap* "reverse embossed" on it. It also says *Made in U.S.A.* 107.1. This one is in really good shape. Hardly any rust. 9 inches long +/- x 2-13/32 wide.

Another one has Lakeside stamped on it. This one has a "grooved" bottom plate on it. It's 12-1/2 inches long x 2-3/8" wide. Very light rusting mostly on the bottom in the grooves and under the blade.

One has no markings at all. It's about 9-1/4" length x 2-3/16" wide. Metal looks a little darker, but very little rust. Knocked most off with 0000 steel wool today. A little rusting under the blade

The other two are 6-1/2" small palm(?) planes, no markings at all. Really good shape, with little noticeable rusting.

All blades need to be sharpened badly, however appear not to have been used much at all. All I have used so far is the 0000 steel wool and a little penetrating oil to minimize further rusting until I can fix them the right way.  $32 for all. All stamped *Made in U.S.A.* on them


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


The citric acid bath was interesting to see. Seems like it did the trick, but knocks off finish that you'd like to retain. What is the "bluing" that you referred to?

Also, with regard to the linseed oil wicking technique: I have read in a book on Swedish carving of wooden ware and what have you the suggestion that you immerse the entire piece in oil and leave it for a day or so. I did that with a handle I made for a knife, and really liked the results, so I can relate with the wicking! Just imagine if you first heated the oil up to 120 degrees! That would be really good!


----------



## Tikka

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


THanks Wayne - becomming a chemist as well as woodworker - If I could find some tools, then I will keep this in mind - have you tried this on saw blades and router bits to remove the resin - or is this mix too strong?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


I've only tried this on handplane parts so far. I'm still in an exporing stage. Also, I imagine you could very the strength of the mix.

On Stanley planes, there is a finish on the back of chip breakers and on the metal piece that is used to adjust the frog. The parts coated in a finish in the factory. If your restoring a plane with collector's value you want to retain this. Normally, I would scrub gently with scotch bright and then coat with schallac. The process I'm using is based on the video by Earnie Conover - Reclaming Flea Market Planes. Check out my video reference page - http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/WayneC/blog/680


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Sounds like you got quite a haul PanamaJack. The small planes sound like block planes. Can you post a few photos? I am curous about the one with no markings.


----------



## Chipncut

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


It looks like a good way of removing rust. I have these old 5 & 6 foot long cross cut saws. Would I have to immerse them, or just brush on?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


The only instructions I have seen for this show immersion. You could try brushing it on. On your saws, what is your goal? Preserve or put back into use?


----------



## PanamaJack

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Here's the two small block planes: 


















"Sears/Dunlap" plane:










"Lakeside" Plane:










9-1/4"x2-3/16" Plane:


----------



## PanamaJack

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Hopefully they weren't too small a picture for you Wayne. I could email larger pics.


----------



## coloradoclimber

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Dorje,

Here are wiki articles to bluing and japaning. Hand planes are likely have a mix of japaning and bluing depending on the specific part. Both processes are designed to cover and protect the underlying metal from rust. Bluing is a surface oxidation process wherein chemicals are used to oxidize the surface of the metal creating a protective layer. Japaning is a lacquer like coating which mechanically bonds to the surface of the metal protecting against oxidation and wear.

Bluing will leave an almost imperceptibly thin surface layer and will get into all cracks and threads. Japaning will leave a more durable coating but is a significant surface layer.

Neither surface stands up extremely well to surface abrasion.

Wiki Bluing)

hmm, the embedded link has a closing ) that doesnt stay with the link, so here's the link in plain text

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_(steel)

Wiki Japaning


----------



## coloradoclimber

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


It makes sense that the citric acid bath would remove bluing. The goal of the bath is to remove the iron oxide (red rust) and since bluing is a surface oxidation process it seems reasonable that bluing would be removed along with the heavier rust.


----------



## Chipncut

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


For display,maybe the rust adds to the look, but I thought it would be fun to experiment a little. If someone wanted the saw to be usable also.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


PanamaJack,

Good looking set of planes for $32. The bottom one may be a Stanley #4 Hard to tell from the photos. Check the inside of the depth adjustment wheel and the lateral adjustment lever to see if they are marked.

The dunlap and the last plane are #4 Sized smoothing planes, the Lakeside appears to be a #5 Jack Plane and the block planes are standard angle block planes. The block planes may be marked on the blades.

Are you all set up for sharpening? If not I would recommend you do a web search on scary sharp. It is probably the method that would require the lowest investment to get started.

Also, your pretty much complete for a basic set of planes. I would look for a low angle block plane and a #7 or #8 Jointer plane when your out and about.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Dick,

I've seen some stuff used that stabilizes rust on antique tools that are intended for display only. I would be concerned with stripping the saws and exposing pitting if there is a lot of rust. You might lose the nice look.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Coloradoclimber.

Good info. Makes a lot of sense.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Here is another interesting product that might be worth a look. I have not tried it.

http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Rust-Before-and-After-W7C2.aspx


----------



## Treefarmer

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Great info all around. I only have a few planes and need to look for some more. I like the idea of saving some $ with the yard sale finds.


----------



## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


I missed this earlier, Wayne. Thanks for the post. I've got a few #4 workers that I want to try this on eventually.


----------



## PanamaJack

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Is there a market for, or is there a source forplaner parts Wayne? I tried the stanley site, it comes back and tells me that it(site) is closed…(?).

I can find several planes(to buy), but they seem to have something missing on them, or they are broken, too rusted, etc….I can deal with the rust.

Thanks for all the help.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


I checked the stanley site and found an updated parts page. Is this the one you tried?

http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/planes.html

When buying planes I try to target specific types. That allows me to find parts planes that match one I am trying to restore. Also, you can many times find parts on ebay. Woodcraft and Rockler sell knobs, blades and chipbreakers.

Hope this helps.


----------



## mot

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


I looks like it worked pretty good!


----------



## PanamaJack

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Tanks Wayne!


----------



## LeeJ

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Wayne;

Excellent information, and very well presented. I never knew…

Lee


----------



## Karson

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Thanks Wayne for the information.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Cleaning Parts with Citric Acid*
> 
> Based on an article by James Thompson I found on OldToolsShop.com. I though I woud try using Citric Acid for rust removal. The article can be found at the following link.
> 
> http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/restore/RemovingRust-CitricAcid-ne.pdf
> 
> Citric acid is used in food processing and seems to do a good job removing rust. I checked the local yellow pages and found a local beer home brewing store. I called them and confirmed that I could purchase citric acid for $5 per pound. I made a quick run over and purchased 2 pounds. I also located a plastic container, a brass brush and some scotch bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I had purchased a #5 parts plane for it's handles at the flea market a couple of weeks ago for $3 and had retained the handles and the frog. The body was badly pitted and had already gone in the trash. From a hindsight perspective, I would have like to have held on to it to use to try it this rust removal technique.
> 
> Here is a photographs of the parts before taking the bath.
> 
> 
> 
> I mixed up the solution using a mix of 1 cup of citric acid to one gallon of water. I placed the parts in and then came back and scrubbed them every 30 minutes or so. The total time in the solution was about 2 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what they looked like once they came out…
> 
> 
> 
> After removing, them I dried them with paper towels, compressed air, and coated them in a light coat of 3 in 1 Oil. I belive it removed the bluing from the metal piece that controls the position of the frog and because of this, I would not use this method for this part or for chip breakers if you care about maintaining the original finish.
> 
> Also, another technique I tried from Michael Dunbar's book Restoring, Tuning, and Using classic woodworking tools was to soak weather worn knobs in Boiled Linseed Oil. This worked very well. Basically you stand the parts in a coffee can with an inch or so of BLO in the bottom and you let it wick up into the parts. 45 minutes on each end.


Thanks Karson and Lee.

In another post, PanamaJack asked how long to leave the planes in the solution. My answer is as short a time as possible. I begin checking in an hour and scrub the parts with a scouring pad. Depending on the level of rust I normally get them clean in a couple of hours.


----------



## WayneC

*Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*

I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.

In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.

All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.










Front view










It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence










In my hand for size










With a #4 bench plane










I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


----------



## Treefarmer

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


You're going to have me joining you soon. That looks sweet.


----------



## Obi

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


and to think it probably started with a cheap block plane.


----------



## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


I know what you mean. I spent a lot of time on Blood and Gore and was constantly referring to it when I was bidding on planes. The ones that fascinate me are the router (aka rebate) planes. Since I was a kid, It has boggled my mind that you can put a deep square cut in wood with a hand plane. I understand it now but have not taken the plunge on one of those yet.

What are your thoughts on those? By the way, nice score. You should have that in tip top before you know it with you techniques. How are you going to deal with the finish on this one?


----------



## mot

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


I think there's a pill for that.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


Obi, I did start with a cheap block planes. And it mauled the wood horribly. It is amazing how much difference a little knowledge and a sharp blade.

Jeff, I do have a router plane but have not played with it much yet. I would like to get a 271 as well. It is the little brother of this plane.










Tom, please send me a year's supply of those pills. I could use them.


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## alf

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


Hi Wayne, good to see someone else suffer on this Slope as well as me! Don't be fooled by Chris' blog - there are lots of features of the Veritas plough that no Record employee would recognise. Hey, that means you need both, right? (I've got to stop doing that to people…) Enjoy the 044; right up until the 043 arrives and you fall for it just like everyone else does… 

Cheers, Alf


----------



## Tangle

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


AAah heck, Wayne, yer jus' havin' too much fun.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


Thanks Alf, I'm looking forward to seeing the Veritas plough. Are you going to review it offically when it comes out? I was thinking of buying one but thought I would try the originals first before I made that commitment. I'm hoping the 43 is there by the time I get home from this business trip.

Thos. having fun is my goal. : ^ )


----------



## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


Very nice router Wanye. Is that post-restoration or the condition when you got it? Whatever the case, she's a beaut!


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


Thanks Jeff. That is the condition it was in when I purchased it.


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


I love these posts - that's all I have to say.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


Thanks Dorje. Have you got a Plough plane in your arsonel yet?


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


No - but I'll be sure to put one on the tool list! (That I carry with me virtually all the time).


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


A plough remains near the top of the list, though I can't seem to move on it…

How has your 044 worked out?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


It works pretty well. I would like to compare it to the Veritas version. My understanding is that Veritas was based on this plane.


----------



## GaryK

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


Man, please don't get me started on planes! I have enough thing to keep me busy.


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


Wayne - I recently gave the Veritas a go at the last woodworign show, but since it was my first experience trying a plough, I was hesitant to just go for it. I'm interested in using a 044…

Cyber Tool Swap?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


CTS works. Also there are a number or Record 044s (and 043s) for sale on UK eBay. The shipping is a bit high, but still much less that than a new Veritas.

Gary, you know you need just one more (you always do)


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


I'll have to take a peek…Thanks

Also, another Q…do all 044s use the two guide rods or do some only use one?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


Need to have 2. I belive the Record 040 is the only one with a single rod.

You can buy 7mm tool steel and make replacement rods or ones with different lenghts.


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


Great - thanks -

I looked on Uk ebay and asked a seller the cost of shipping to the US…he quoted me 36pounds…$70

I don't have a sense of what the actual planes are going for yet though…so can't tell what total cost might be…


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


36 pounds is unreal. I just purchased a Record 043 and the shipping was 9 pounds….$18 Ask a few other sellers. The 044s should not be too bad. I looked at completed auctions and it appeared to be 20-35 pounds for a complete one in good shape. One went for about 58 in mint condition with a box.


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 1*
> 
> I started this blog to restore a set of Bailey style bench planes for use in my shop. The more I have worked with handplanes, the more diverse my interests have become. I have been interested in Plough Planes for a while after reading about them on Patrick's Blood and Gore site and on Alf's Cornish Workshop web site. Alf has a lot of historical information on her web site as well as a user's guide that shows how to tune and use a combination plane.
> 
> In addition to this, I read an entry in Chris Schwartz's blog about some new planes coming from Lee-Valley this fall. Lee Valley is releasing a new Plough plane based on the Record 044. The Record 044 is one of several planes that are unique to Record. Others are the 040, 043 and the T5.
> 
> All of this motivated me to purchase a Record 044 on ebay. This plane is used to cut dados of various sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with 7 blades and 2 sets of bars for the fence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my hand for size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a #4 bench plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also won a Record 043 and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. One of these days I will get a Stanley 45 and take another step down the slippery slope.


Good to know - I've got a couple more emails out requesting shipping costs…


----------



## WayneC

*Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*

I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.

Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.










Here is a view of the front of the plane.










Here is a side view










Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


----------



## Tangle

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


I like it, Wayne. it will do what it was intended to do. Good one.


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


A beauty -

What size cutter did you get with it?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Thanks.

Dorje, it came with a 1/4" cutter.


----------



## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


I'm beginning to have some serious plane envy Wayne. I'm glad you continue to make these posts and thanks for turning me on to Alf's site. Does the smaller size feel awkward or harder to control?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Your welcome Jeff. I think the smaller size makes it easier to control. You can use it with one hand. I'm going to have to make a planing stop for these guys. I also need to get some bar stock and make some shorter posts.


----------



## PanamaJack

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Another cool tool Wayne.


----------



## Karson

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Very nice Wayne.


----------



## Treefarmer

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


OH Man!...my wife is so gonna kill you.


----------



## someGuy123

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


That's cool.


----------



## philsville

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Nice, Wayne!
Glad to see you are slipping down the slope at quite a rate!
The #43 is a gem - enjoy!
Phil


----------



## Chipncut

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Real nice Wayne, 
You must have the largest collection of planes in the USA, or getting there.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Thanks Phil. It will be fun to play around with.

Not even close Dick. I'm trying to avoid the collection lable and get a good diverse selection for use in the shop (Although, I'm pretty sure my wife and daughter would agree with you).


----------



## VicH

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Thanks for the heads up on Alf's video. I followed the link to her website. A lot of good info there. She even has pdf manuals of the Stanley no. 45. Very cool.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Your welcome Vic. Do you have any combination planes. If so, what kind and how do you like them?


----------



## VicH

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Hey Wayne. 
I ended up replying to your message. But, on the wrong page. DOH! Anyway, I just have the two bodies. A buddy has the whole setup box and all. It's pretty cool. He got his passed down from his Dad.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Actuallly from a PM, I belive I knew that you had the 45s. You will have to give it a try with you buddies plane and see if you want to make the investment in cutters. I picked up a 45 last weekend, but I need to get some cutters for it as well.

I just ordered some tool steel to make some short rods for the fence on this plane. Going to make a set of 2.6" rods for it as described in the following linked article. Along with some Lignum Vitae for a fence and this should be a pretty nice plane.

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/record.html

Let me know how it goes if you get around to trying it out.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


LOL - I purchased another one of these today. I prefer the kurled knobs.


----------



## Grumpy

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Nice.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Fun little plane.


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Nice - what cutter sizes?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


The cutters are 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4".


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Are those the standard sizes that came with that model?

And - do you know how many came with the 044?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Yes. There are also a set of metric cutters available in 4, 6, 9 and 12mm sizes.

With the 044 the available cutters are 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/17, 1/2, and 9/16.

Also think there are metric 4, 6, 9, and 12MM are available for the 044.


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope - Part 2*
> 
> I recieved the second Plough plane from the UK in the mail today. This one is the little sister of the Record 044 I showed in my last blog entry. This one is a small plough plane made by record and imitated by a couple of other manufactures including Marples. This plane is useful for quickly making groves in boards for drawers and similar applications.
> 
> Let me introduce the Record 043 to you. I'm show it next to my Lie-Nielson low angle block plane to give you a sense of scale. It was actually smaller than I was expecting. I'm going to clean this plane up and put it to good use in my shop. This one only came with a single blade. Normally they come with 3 blades (1/8", 3/16", 1/4") and metric blades were available as an option. I'm going to have to find additional blades. In the interem, I can use blades from my Record 043.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a view of the front of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a side view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I would like to thank Alf for getting me interested in these planes. Here is a link to a video showing her using a Record 044 to make a groove.


Thanks Wayne…


----------



## WayneC

*Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*

I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.



It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running. 
The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.



Here is a photo of it on the shooting board



And one with it apart



This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


----------



## Tangle

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Great Blog, Wayne. You got it here quick. We were just talking about it this morning. I got on Philsville tonight and then went to the shop and started a plane. I gotta try this. I am impressed with Phil's work. Great tecnique and very functional.I think maybe we lost something when we started to buy our tools instead of making them. The guys like Phil are teaching us the difference. Thanks for the photos,Wayne.
Tom


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Thanks Tom. I agree about losing something by not making our own tools. I've got the stuff to make a couple of Krenov style smoothing planes. I'm going to give it a try before long.


----------



## boboswin

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Very decent looking plane .
You should really enjoy working with that.
I have plans for a brass infil and a box plane for this winter I hope if I ever get the darn brass stock.

Bob


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Thanks Bob. Phil does great work.

Have you tried looking on eBay for the brass stock? That is where I have been finding metal stock lately.


----------



## jockmike2

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Nice looking plane Wayne. I've got an old one I'm gonna take a pic of, and see if you can figure out what it is. I have no idea. mike


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Looking forward to seeing it Mike. Perhaps we can get you to put if back into use.


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Beautiful Wayne (and Phil!) -

Is the wood Osage Orange? Or???


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Phil did a great Job. The wood is Goncalo Alves.


----------



## Karson

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Great looking Plane Phil and Wayne.

I wish you many fine shavings with it.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Thanks Karson. Phil provided the skill and all of the work….. I'm just the happy new owner.


----------



## philsville

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Wayne
Glad you like your plane - she looks great! Well, I would say that 
Good looking shooting board you have there, too. And I did notice the other gloats in the pic - HNT Gordon hammer and L-N brush? Very nice 
Best regards
Phil

ww.phillyplanes.co.uk


----------



## Radish

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


But no shavings. Wayne we wanna see the curls, up close, full width and trans-illuminated!
BTW I'm liking that shooting board as well. The ramp providing a shearing action is an improvement over the plans I have seen. Have you blogged that one?

I keep telling myself that after the Christmas gift making frenzy this will be the *Year of the Plane* for me, when I learn how to effective use these tools and make a few.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


I think the plane is a gloat. The brush has been living on the bench for quite a while. I could not quite get myself to use a MDF shooting board with your plane…


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


I'll post some action shots down the road. The shooting board is a self-reward for some hard work. I've been working long hours and weekends pretty much over the entire summer. I've got two weeks of vacation starting this weekend and expect to get the shop back in order and some work done. Perhaps I will even get it tour ready.


----------



## Radish

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Wayne, Debbie and I would love to do an inspection!


----------



## mot

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Ooooooooooo…pretty awesome!


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Sliding down the slippery slope Philly style*
> 
> I'm a firm beliver in supporting other LumberJocks when I can and I've been in the hunt for a good miter plane for a while. I was impressed with Phil's wooden miter planes and decided to order one. It actually arrived a couple of weeks ago, but with my work schedule I really have not had time to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> It is a wonderful plane. Well made. Phil made the blade as well as the plane. It was well tuned when it arrived. I basically set it on the bench, put the blade in, then the wedge, tapped the wedge in. Tapped it a few times on the nose and was off an running.
> The plane has a very fine mouth and takes nice shavings. I've used it on my shooting board and it works quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo of it on the shooting board
> 
> 
> 
> And one with it apart
> 
> 
> 
> This is a really wonderful purchase and well worth the investment. It will get many years of use in my shop.


Looks like Christopher Schwarz likes them as well….

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Tool+Test+Wooden+Miter+Plane+From+Philly+Planes.aspx


----------



## WayneC

*Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*

I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.

Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.










The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.

When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.

Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.

I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future










The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.










Note the pins that are used instead of screws.










With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.










Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.










Applying the shellac










Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.





































And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


----------



## Tangle

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


Wayne,
It looks pretty good. Great photos.


----------



## David

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


Wayne -

What a wonderful plane to rehab. Great photos. I am looking forward to the next part of the blog. I see a nice new Hock iron & chip breaker ready to go! BTW nice set of cabinet screwdrivers!

David


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


Thanks Tom and David. I finished the post.


----------



## mot

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


You have more patience than I do, Wayne! Great job and another in a great series to read and learn from.


----------



## Tangle

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


That is a great looking set of planes. Wasn't that fun? it really doesn't take all that long to get a plane working like it's supposed to. Someone in another post mentioned that you need a surface plate to lap soles but a piece of plate glass and sand paper work just fine. I'm not throwing out my planer or jointer but it sure feels good to use a sharp plane. I need to trade up to Bedrocks. There's that slippery slope again. By the way, I've been getting shellac in spray cans at Woodcraft. It's cheaper than at Home Depot. It sure is handy for little stuff. It and good ol' Rattelaquer.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


It is a lot of fun. I need to get the others done and move on. I also need to design and build a tool cabinet.


----------



## boboswin

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


My,my what a lovely find and addition to a lovely stable.

Bob


----------



## David

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


Wayne -

Great ending and a wonderful set of planes!


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


Thanks Bob, David and Mot. Getting closer to being done.


----------



## Brad_Nailor

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


Wayne..wow way to bring back something alot of people would think was junk. Looks like you have an extensive collection of older planes. It looks brand new. Hand planes are a mystery to me…I am a power tool guy!


----------



## Tikka

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


Another nice find! At this rate you will have to build yourself another workshop - just house all the hand tools you are aquiring (envy).


----------



## philsville

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


Wayne
Another cracking tool - Well done!
Phil


----------



## Karson

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


Great job Wayne. A nice restoration.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


Thanks guys.

Tony, I would love to have a dedicated workshop.

Brad, even a power tool guy needs a couple of planes…


----------



## Dorje

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


Nice work Wayne - what are the the other planes you still need to restore? (and house)


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


I have a full set of bench planes. I would also expect to have 3-4 block planes, a couple of shoulder planes, a miter plane or two. I think I will store my speciality planes (rabbit, combination, etc. else where). This photo shows the issue. I have 4 left to restore.


----------



## bigike

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


nice this is how I want mine set up with all hock blades.


----------



## xraydav

WayneC said:


> *Stanley Bedrock 603 Type 6*
> 
> I really like the Stanley Bedrock style planes and on a whim bid on and won this plane last week. I will be replacing my current #3 with this plane in my bench plane set. If you have followed the blog, I set a goal of putting together a full set of Stanley bench planes. The set is now pretty much complete with a little tuning planned. For example, I would like to replace my Sargent #8 with a Stanley 8C or perhaps a Bedrock 608 and have been slowly looking for one. Also, I still need to restore the #5 1/2, 6, 7, and 8 to complete the set. Need to get it done so that I can move on to completing and blogging some projects.
> 
> Here is a before photo of the plane. It was missing it's front knob.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was go to Bob Kaune's Stanley Bedrock Type study page to determine the plane's type and age. According to this page, this is a Type 6 Bedrock plane and based on blade was manufactured between 1914 and 1918.
> 
> When you buy a Bedrock for use, I recommed you get a type 5 or later. The one of the key benefits of a Bedrock plane is the ability to adjust the frog with the blade locked into place. This is a very nice feature and was introduced in 1911. The type study page has a good diagram that shows the design of the frog.
> 
> Another identifying feature of a type 5 or later plane is the flat sides. As a side note, this design is the foundation for the Lie-Nielson bench planes. All of their bench planes (except the #1) are modeled after the Stanley Bedrock line.
> 
> I have been buying any of the planes that I come across that are in 1910 to 1930 or so manufacture date if they are inexpensive and have usable parts. I evaluate the overall condition remembering that blades, knobs, frogs, etc. can cost a bit if you need to buy one. This approach paid off for me as I had a couple of knobs that are approprate for this plane. Also, I purchased a Hock Blade and chip breaker for the plane. I will set the original blade and chip breaker aside and return it to the plane if I decide to sell it in the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to dissassemble the plane and evauate any problems. As you can see there is some light rust in the bed of the plane. Also the rear handle has been broken and repaired. I will leave it as is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the pins that are used instead of screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the frog out you can see the design of the frog mounting point and where the screws are located that are used to lock the frog in place and adjust the frog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is completely dissassembled. There is some light rust on the body of the plane. Other parts are in good condition. I checked the bottom with a steel rule and it appears to be flat. Given the collector's value of the plane and overall condition, I am not going to lap the sole or clean the patina off of the metal. I am going to clean the rust from the body and apply some clear shellac to the japanned parts of the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Applying the shellac
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to put everything together. I'm using a little 3-in-1 oil on all of the screws. Then I adjusted the mouth and set the blade. A few quick passes to verify the plane is operational.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is in it's rightful place along with the other smoothing planes in the set


Hello Wayne, learned about Hock blades and breakers from your article. I am a user and I suspect a collector too as I long to have a complete set. I am of the ilk that likes a lapped bottom and sides, and I get almost as much satisfaction from keeping my Stanley blades honed.. i have a 606, 605 604 and am shopping for a 603, 602 and 607. This is where I admit my disease.. I also have a Set of Baileys 3s, 4s, 4.5s, 5s, 5c, 6s, 7s and am shopping for a 2 and if I ever find a 1 I will probably spend more of the kids inheritance on it. I think I will have an 8 some day as well. I have and use my 92 shoulder plane often as I make furniture mostly. Rockers and tables, cradles and such. I do have a planer and jointer and use them of course but I find finish fitting much easier and more enjoyable with hand planes. I also have about 12 other planes from other manufacturers.. But Bedrocks Rock in my book. I suspect I will pass on before any of my kids gain interest in my tools and so I don't much care about keeping the collect-ability of my tools. I like to strip and refinish the totes and handles and in some cases make new ones out of Massachusetts Cherry.. wood I cut down years ago and had milled into lumber. Anyway its nice to see someone who has respect for them, I love those little ones… tell us more about them why dont you.
David from Boston


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## WayneC

*Stanley 112*

This was a craigslist item that showed up yesterday evening. I quickly arranged to head over to the sellers house and pick it up. The Stanley 112 is a scraping plane used for finishing surfaces similar to a card scraper. According to Patrick Leach, "this is one of the finest tools ever to have been unleashed on the public from New Britain, Connecticut." It has been on my shopping list for a while.

This one is in pretty good shape. It has some light rust and is missing it's blade. It also has some very minor pitting on the sole. It should clean-up nicely. A quick trip to the Craftman Studio web site and a replacement hock blade is on it's way. Attached are some before photos. I will post a follow-up when I have her cleaned up.









Lie-Nielson has a video on setting them up - 



and using them -


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## sbryan55

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112*
> 
> This was a craigslist item that showed up yesterday evening. I quickly arranged to head over to the sellers house and pick it up. The Stanley 112 is a scraping plane used for finishing surfaces similar to a card scraper. According to Patrick Leach, "this is one of the finest tools ever to have been unleashed on the public from New Britain, Connecticut." It has been on my shopping list for a while.
> 
> This one is in pretty good shape. It has some light rust and is missing it's blade. It also has some very minor pitting on the sole. It should clean-up nicely. A quick trip to the Craftman Studio web site and a replacement hock blade is on it's way. Attached are some before photos. I will post a follow-up when I have her cleaned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lie-Nielson has a video on setting them up -
> 
> 
> 
> and using them -


Wayne, that is a nice looking plane. I will be looking forward to seeing its restoration. With all of these posts on plane restoration it certainly is an incentive to work on my #5 and #8 that belonged to my father.

I have seen posts detailing how to clean up the original blades that were in the plane but, in my opinion, you can't beat a Hock iron. It was a good idea (especially since it did not have one anyway) to put one in.


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112*
> 
> This was a craigslist item that showed up yesterday evening. I quickly arranged to head over to the sellers house and pick it up. The Stanley 112 is a scraping plane used for finishing surfaces similar to a card scraper. According to Patrick Leach, "this is one of the finest tools ever to have been unleashed on the public from New Britain, Connecticut." It has been on my shopping list for a while.
> 
> This one is in pretty good shape. It has some light rust and is missing it's blade. It also has some very minor pitting on the sole. It should clean-up nicely. A quick trip to the Craftman Studio web site and a replacement hock blade is on it's way. Attached are some before photos. I will post a follow-up when I have her cleaned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lie-Nielson has a video on setting them up -
> 
> 
> 
> and using them -


Thanks. I label and set the original blades aside and move my hock blades to the new plane if I happen to upgrade. Then I can restore the original blade. In this case, I could have probably found a cheaper replacement blade at woodcraft, but I am a firm beliver in quality. This plane and blade should last me the rest of my life.


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## Moai

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112*
> 
> This was a craigslist item that showed up yesterday evening. I quickly arranged to head over to the sellers house and pick it up. The Stanley 112 is a scraping plane used for finishing surfaces similar to a card scraper. According to Patrick Leach, "this is one of the finest tools ever to have been unleashed on the public from New Britain, Connecticut." It has been on my shopping list for a while.
> 
> This one is in pretty good shape. It has some light rust and is missing it's blade. It also has some very minor pitting on the sole. It should clean-up nicely. A quick trip to the Craftman Studio web site and a replacement hock blade is on it's way. Attached are some before photos. I will post a follow-up when I have her cleaned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lie-Nielson has a video on setting them up -
> 
> 
> 
> and using them -


Beautiful plane, nice Tote…....I have seen nice/mint blades at ebay time to time, even the dented one for veenering work. Is anything to restore in that plane? Looks ready to go to me….


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## mot

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112*
> 
> This was a craigslist item that showed up yesterday evening. I quickly arranged to head over to the sellers house and pick it up. The Stanley 112 is a scraping plane used for finishing surfaces similar to a card scraper. According to Patrick Leach, "this is one of the finest tools ever to have been unleashed on the public from New Britain, Connecticut." It has been on my shopping list for a while.
> 
> This one is in pretty good shape. It has some light rust and is missing it's blade. It also has some very minor pitting on the sole. It should clean-up nicely. A quick trip to the Craftman Studio web site and a replacement hock blade is on it's way. Attached are some before photos. I will post a follow-up when I have her cleaned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lie-Nielson has a video on setting them up -
> 
> 
> 
> and using them -


Hey Wayne,

I just noticed you're back and active. This should be an interesting restoration. I've considered a scraping plane for some time.

Cheers!

Tom


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## boboswin

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112*
> 
> This was a craigslist item that showed up yesterday evening. I quickly arranged to head over to the sellers house and pick it up. The Stanley 112 is a scraping plane used for finishing surfaces similar to a card scraper. According to Patrick Leach, "this is one of the finest tools ever to have been unleashed on the public from New Britain, Connecticut." It has been on my shopping list for a while.
> 
> This one is in pretty good shape. It has some light rust and is missing it's blade. It also has some very minor pitting on the sole. It should clean-up nicely. A quick trip to the Craftman Studio web site and a replacement hock blade is on it's way. Attached are some before photos. I will post a follow-up when I have her cleaned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lie-Nielson has a video on setting them up -
> 
> 
> 
> and using them -


Wayne, have you looked at the Lee Valley Scraper?
Unless you stole that #112 it's worth a peak before you invest in it.


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112*
> 
> This was a craigslist item that showed up yesterday evening. I quickly arranged to head over to the sellers house and pick it up. The Stanley 112 is a scraping plane used for finishing surfaces similar to a card scraper. According to Patrick Leach, "this is one of the finest tools ever to have been unleashed on the public from New Britain, Connecticut." It has been on my shopping list for a while.
> 
> This one is in pretty good shape. It has some light rust and is missing it's blade. It also has some very minor pitting on the sole. It should clean-up nicely. A quick trip to the Craftman Studio web site and a replacement hock blade is on it's way. Attached are some before photos. I will post a follow-up when I have her cleaned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lie-Nielson has a video on setting them up -
> 
> 
> 
> and using them -


Hey Tom it is good to see ya.

Bob, I have quite a bit less invtested in this plane. At this point I am committed.

Moai, It has some rust to be removed and I need to work on the sole. Other than that it is in pretty good shape.


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## Blake

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112*
> 
> This was a craigslist item that showed up yesterday evening. I quickly arranged to head over to the sellers house and pick it up. The Stanley 112 is a scraping plane used for finishing surfaces similar to a card scraper. According to Patrick Leach, "this is one of the finest tools ever to have been unleashed on the public from New Britain, Connecticut." It has been on my shopping list for a while.
> 
> This one is in pretty good shape. It has some light rust and is missing it's blade. It also has some very minor pitting on the sole. It should clean-up nicely. A quick trip to the Craftman Studio web site and a replacement hock blade is on it's way. Attached are some before photos. I will post a follow-up when I have her cleaned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lie-Nielson has a video on setting them up -
> 
> 
> 
> and using them -


Wow, thats a nice one. I wish I hadn't seen this. Now I'm going to need one of these.


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## Brad_Nailor

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112*
> 
> This was a craigslist item that showed up yesterday evening. I quickly arranged to head over to the sellers house and pick it up. The Stanley 112 is a scraping plane used for finishing surfaces similar to a card scraper. According to Patrick Leach, "this is one of the finest tools ever to have been unleashed on the public from New Britain, Connecticut." It has been on my shopping list for a while.
> 
> This one is in pretty good shape. It has some light rust and is missing it's blade. It also has some very minor pitting on the sole. It should clean-up nicely. A quick trip to the Craftman Studio web site and a replacement hock blade is on it's way. Attached are some before photos. I will post a follow-up when I have her cleaned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lie-Nielson has a video on setting them up -
> 
> 
> 
> and using them -


Thats pretty cool…It almost looks like an elaborate holder for a card scraper!


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112*
> 
> This was a craigslist item that showed up yesterday evening. I quickly arranged to head over to the sellers house and pick it up. The Stanley 112 is a scraping plane used for finishing surfaces similar to a card scraper. According to Patrick Leach, "this is one of the finest tools ever to have been unleashed on the public from New Britain, Connecticut." It has been on my shopping list for a while.
> 
> This one is in pretty good shape. It has some light rust and is missing it's blade. It also has some very minor pitting on the sole. It should clean-up nicely. A quick trip to the Craftman Studio web site and a replacement hock blade is on it's way. Attached are some before photos. I will post a follow-up when I have her cleaned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lie-Nielson has a video on setting them up -
> 
> 
> 
> and using them -


I ordered some Evapo-Rust, think I will give it a try. I have seen quite a few posts about it. I will probably try it on a beater before I use it on the areas with rust on this plane. In this case most of the rust is light. The biggest concern I have for electrolysis is how to dispose of the liquid once your done.

Blake, I would offer to trade it to you for your 62, but I picked up the LN version last year. (and your 62 is a more valueable plane) Still think you got the find of the month.

Brad, pretty much.


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## WayneC

*Stanley 112 Update*

Just a quick update. I ordered and recieved a Hock replacement blade for the plane from Craftsman Studio. While I was at it, I had a moment of weakness and also ordered a Hock burnishing rod. I really like Craftsman Studio, good prices and quick shipping.

The burnishing rod comes without a handle so I enlisted one of my friends to turn a quick brass handle. The Hock blade is very high quality and I like the finish. Photos are below.

I also have a some evapo-rust on order. Once that is here, I will get after the restoration. It will be interesting to see how well it works.


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## bhack

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112 Update*
> 
> Just a quick update. I ordered and recieved a Hock replacement blade for the plane from Craftsman Studio. While I was at it, I had a moment of weakness and also ordered a Hock burnishing rod. I really like Craftsman Studio, good prices and quick shipping.
> 
> The burnishing rod comes without a handle so I enlisted one of my friends to turn a quick brass handle. The Hock blade is very high quality and I like the finish. Photos are below.
> 
> I also have a some evapo-rust on order. Once that is here, I will get after the restoration. It will be interesting to see how well it works.


Thanks for the update. Keep then coming because they are very informative.


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## Caliper

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112 Update*
> 
> Just a quick update. I ordered and recieved a Hock replacement blade for the plane from Craftsman Studio. While I was at it, I had a moment of weakness and also ordered a Hock burnishing rod. I really like Craftsman Studio, good prices and quick shipping.
> 
> The burnishing rod comes without a handle so I enlisted one of my friends to turn a quick brass handle. The Hock blade is very high quality and I like the finish. Photos are below.
> 
> I also have a some evapo-rust on order. Once that is here, I will get after the restoration. It will be interesting to see how well it works.


Cool deal, Wayne. I'm about to order some evapo-rust too. I have some saw plates I want to clean up that way. I've already done some electrolysis on them but it didn't quite get it all. I think to accommodate the length, I had to have too large of a vessel to effectively work with my charger. I've heard the lower the amps the better… Works great in a 5gal bucket at around 1/2 amp but I could never get below about 3 amps with a larger trash can.

Have you ever done electrolysis on saws?


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112 Update*
> 
> Just a quick update. I ordered and recieved a Hock replacement blade for the plane from Craftsman Studio. While I was at it, I had a moment of weakness and also ordered a Hock burnishing rod. I really like Craftsman Studio, good prices and quick shipping.
> 
> The burnishing rod comes without a handle so I enlisted one of my friends to turn a quick brass handle. The Hock blade is very high quality and I like the finish. Photos are below.
> 
> I also have a some evapo-rust on order. Once that is here, I will get after the restoration. It will be interesting to see how well it works.


I've shyed away from electrolysis. There may be others here with some more experience with it that can chime in.


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## brianhavens

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112 Update*
> 
> Just a quick update. I ordered and recieved a Hock replacement blade for the plane from Craftsman Studio. While I was at it, I had a moment of weakness and also ordered a Hock burnishing rod. I really like Craftsman Studio, good prices and quick shipping.
> 
> The burnishing rod comes without a handle so I enlisted one of my friends to turn a quick brass handle. The Hock blade is very high quality and I like the finish. Photos are below.
> 
> I also have a some evapo-rust on order. Once that is here, I will get after the restoration. It will be interesting to see how well it works.


Have you tried scraping with it yet? The #112 is one of those tools that, once you start using it, you wonder how you survived without it for so long. I was giddy for several days after I got mine working. Too bad they are so expensive. I think that has a lot to do with why not too many use them: you have to be a galoot to be willing to spend the money.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley 112 Update*
> 
> Just a quick update. I ordered and recieved a Hock replacement blade for the plane from Craftsman Studio. While I was at it, I had a moment of weakness and also ordered a Hock burnishing rod. I really like Craftsman Studio, good prices and quick shipping.
> 
> The burnishing rod comes without a handle so I enlisted one of my friends to turn a quick brass handle. The Hock blade is very high quality and I like the finish. Photos are below.
> 
> I also have a some evapo-rust on order. Once that is here, I will get after the restoration. It will be interesting to see how well it works.


Not yet. I got the evao rust yesterday, but have not had time to play with it. I was going to grab a beater block plane and try it out on that first.


----------



## WayneC

*Interesting middle of the road approach*

While looking for a link to Christopher Schwartz's blog for my review of his book I noticed his most recent blog entry "Vintage Planes are Better than New" and thought the topic was worth sharing here. In the article, he discusses his purchase of a handplane from Steve Nisbett. Steve is a Machinest that buys old planes and rebuilds them. The planes are then sold from his ebay store. The blog article is a quick read and includes a link to Steve Nisbett's ebay store.

Given the discussion recently about Lee Valley Planes vs. Lie-Nielson vs. Restoring planes, I thougth this would be a good compromise if people were looking for a good value in a hand plane. Check it out.

I dug around in the shop last night, but was not able to find a good candiate to try out the evapo rust on. I may have to make a flea market run this weekend. I did come across a nice #18 that I had set back. May have to get to work on it after the 112.


----------



## Blake

WayneC said:


> *Interesting middle of the road approach*
> 
> While looking for a link to Christopher Schwartz's blog for my review of his book I noticed his most recent blog entry "Vintage Planes are Better than New" and thought the topic was worth sharing here. In the article, he discusses his purchase of a handplane from Steve Nisbett. Steve is a Machinest that buys old planes and rebuilds them. The planes are then sold from his ebay store. The blog article is a quick read and includes a link to Steve Nisbett's ebay store.
> 
> Given the discussion recently about Lee Valley Planes vs. Lie-Nielson vs. Restoring planes, I thougth this would be a good compromise if people were looking for a good value in a hand plane. Check it out.
> 
> I dug around in the shop last night, but was not able to find a good candiate to try out the evapo rust on. I may have to make a flea market run this weekend. I did come across a nice #18 that I had set back. May have to get to work on it after the 112.


Interesting article.

Did you ever notice how woodworking magazines never feature articles about used tools? Its because their advertisers would go nuts. They don't want anybody to know that you can get better quality US-made tools for a quarter (or less) of the price of new crap from China/Taiwan.

I'm checking out that guys e-bay store right now.


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Interesting middle of the road approach*
> 
> While looking for a link to Christopher Schwartz's blog for my review of his book I noticed his most recent blog entry "Vintage Planes are Better than New" and thought the topic was worth sharing here. In the article, he discusses his purchase of a handplane from Steve Nisbett. Steve is a Machinest that buys old planes and rebuilds them. The planes are then sold from his ebay store. The blog article is a quick read and includes a link to Steve Nisbett's ebay store.
> 
> Given the discussion recently about Lee Valley Planes vs. Lie-Nielson vs. Restoring planes, I thougth this would be a good compromise if people were looking for a good value in a hand plane. Check it out.
> 
> I dug around in the shop last night, but was not able to find a good candiate to try out the evapo rust on. I may have to make a flea market run this weekend. I did come across a nice #18 that I had set back. May have to get to work on it after the 112.


Every once in a while I see articles about tuning old planes, but I agree the majority of the publications are intended to influence the purchase of new tools.

I am wondering if he would take planes and rework them as a service.


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## Julian

WayneC said:


> *Interesting middle of the road approach*
> 
> While looking for a link to Christopher Schwartz's blog for my review of his book I noticed his most recent blog entry "Vintage Planes are Better than New" and thought the topic was worth sharing here. In the article, he discusses his purchase of a handplane from Steve Nisbett. Steve is a Machinest that buys old planes and rebuilds them. The planes are then sold from his ebay store. The blog article is a quick read and includes a link to Steve Nisbett's ebay store.
> 
> Given the discussion recently about Lee Valley Planes vs. Lie-Nielson vs. Restoring planes, I thougth this would be a good compromise if people were looking for a good value in a hand plane. Check it out.
> 
> I dug around in the shop last night, but was not able to find a good candiate to try out the evapo rust on. I may have to make a flea market run this weekend. I did come across a nice #18 that I had set back. May have to get to work on it after the 112.


Most of the magazines out now really don't cater to us woodworkers. They seem to cater to the weekend warrior who doesn't really care about how to use a plane or properly tune it up. I gave up on the printed media a while ago since there is so much more useful and FREE info on the internet. I've learned more about woodworking off of the forum boards I peruse daily than I could ever learn from a magazine.

Now that I am done ranting, thanks for the link. I just love working with antique tools. There's something satisfying about using a well tuned antique, knowing that it is outperforming most of the new tools out there today, and the fact that it costs much less.


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## matt1970

WayneC said:


> *Interesting middle of the road approach*
> 
> While looking for a link to Christopher Schwartz's blog for my review of his book I noticed his most recent blog entry "Vintage Planes are Better than New" and thought the topic was worth sharing here. In the article, he discusses his purchase of a handplane from Steve Nisbett. Steve is a Machinest that buys old planes and rebuilds them. The planes are then sold from his ebay store. The blog article is a quick read and includes a link to Steve Nisbett's ebay store.
> 
> Given the discussion recently about Lee Valley Planes vs. Lie-Nielson vs. Restoring planes, I thougth this would be a good compromise if people were looking for a good value in a hand plane. Check it out.
> 
> I dug around in the shop last night, but was not able to find a good candiate to try out the evapo rust on. I may have to make a flea market run this weekend. I did come across a nice #18 that I had set back. May have to get to work on it after the 112.


so…speaking of books…when are you going to write your book? after 26 blog entries you are becoming quite an author…and clearly an expert!


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Interesting middle of the road approach*
> 
> While looking for a link to Christopher Schwartz's blog for my review of his book I noticed his most recent blog entry "Vintage Planes are Better than New" and thought the topic was worth sharing here. In the article, he discusses his purchase of a handplane from Steve Nisbett. Steve is a Machinest that buys old planes and rebuilds them. The planes are then sold from his ebay store. The blog article is a quick read and includes a link to Steve Nisbett's ebay store.
> 
> Given the discussion recently about Lee Valley Planes vs. Lie-Nielson vs. Restoring planes, I thougth this would be a good compromise if people were looking for a good value in a hand plane. Check it out.
> 
> I dug around in the shop last night, but was not able to find a good candiate to try out the evapo rust on. I may have to make a flea market run this weekend. I did come across a nice #18 that I had set back. May have to get to work on it after the 112.


I'm told I am not an expert until I have spent more on wood than I have on tools….. Have a ways to go to meet that standard.


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## toolmike

WayneC said:


> *Interesting middle of the road approach*
> 
> While looking for a link to Christopher Schwartz's blog for my review of his book I noticed his most recent blog entry "Vintage Planes are Better than New" and thought the topic was worth sharing here. In the article, he discusses his purchase of a handplane from Steve Nisbett. Steve is a Machinest that buys old planes and rebuilds them. The planes are then sold from his ebay store. The blog article is a quick read and includes a link to Steve Nisbett's ebay store.
> 
> Given the discussion recently about Lee Valley Planes vs. Lie-Nielson vs. Restoring planes, I thougth this would be a good compromise if people were looking for a good value in a hand plane. Check it out.
> 
> I dug around in the shop last night, but was not able to find a good candiate to try out the evapo rust on. I may have to make a flea market run this weekend. I did come across a nice #18 that I had set back. May have to get to work on it after the 112.


I just re-read the article today on Schwartz's blog, and wondered what happened to Steve Nisbett's eBay store?
Sadly it seems as though he passed away earlier this year.
http://wheaton.patch.com/groups/obituaries/p/obituary-death-notice-funeral-steven-j-nisbett-57-nova10b752013


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## WayneC

*Struck out at the flea market*

My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.

I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.



We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.

Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo

Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide

Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)

Cost: $27

Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.











Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.





With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)



Have a good weekend.


----------



## Timbo

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


Looks like a nice plane, fairly decent shape.


----------



## jockmike2

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


Very old, what's it worth Wayne? I saw some like these up by Houghton Lake, MI. Should I grab them the next time I'm up there if they are in decent shape?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


Thanks Tim.

Mike, I'm not real comfortable with pricing them. This one appeared to be reasonable and in a condition that I could restore it and use it. I was looking for a Jointer, jack and smoother as well. Eventually, I would like to get some good usable profiling planes as well. Personally, I try to avoid buying things I do not intend to use. Would you use the planes you saw?


----------



## MedicKen

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


Wayne,
I have used evaporust on some rusty table saw parts. The main thing is, at least to me, it doesnt leave the old patina that electrolysis does. The metal comes out nice and clean, no rust, but has this flat, almost etched apperance. If you are wanting the old patina evaporust is not the choice. If you dont really care about the apperance and just want the rust gone it does a great job. It will also leave any paint that is present, where elecrtolysis will strip to bare metal.


----------



## Karson

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


I great looking trip.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


Thanks Ken, this is why I want to try it out. I may have to go check a different flea market tomorrow.


----------



## craftsman on the lake

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


Nice aquire!

Go with the evaporust. I've tried a lot of things, electrolysis and various chemicals from the automotive store. Evaporust does the best job and will not damage the metal hands down, no contest.


----------



## Stoneturner

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


All in all, it appears that you had a great shopping trip. I have a question. Does the wood plane do as good a job as the metal planes?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


I only have one wood plane I have been using with any regularity (wooden miter plane made by lumberjock Phil Edwards). It works well. I am wanting to exparament with wooden planes. The are supposed to be lighter and easier to push than metal planes. Other LJs may have more experience or opinions…

Below is a photo of my other wooden plane…


----------



## jockmike2

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


So you buy them to use and not to collect and sell? Some of the ones I've seen up north, would be usable. Others, not. Thanks.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


Yes, I am trying to avoid collecting for the sake of collecting and I do not sell anything at this point. One of these days I will have to make it back to Michigan to poke around. I lived in Marquette for close to 4 years when I was younger and had family in the Detroit area for a long time. They moved to California about 5 years ago and so I have not had any reason to go back.


----------



## scottishrose

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


Just a cautionary tale about those block planes and Evaporust. I am doing a lot of old tools and so I put the top of the block plane which was rusty in the jar. This is the part you hold on to. The next day - no rust, no japaning. Anyone know how to fix this? Otherwise the evaporust has done its weight in gold returning drawers full of chesels, plane blades, chippers, and carving tools back to a place where they can be sharpened.
Scottishrose


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


Was the top jappanned or just painted? If painted, I am guessing you could repaint it. Have any photos?


----------



## rob2

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


That Wooden Plane is a beauty.

Have you tried Denio's in Roseville? I have heard that there is a big flea market in the Bay area that has tools.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


Yes Rob, Denio's is where I struck out at last weekend. I had not heard of one in the bay area that does. I went to the San Jose area flea markets a while back and it was mostly new stuff / junk. I have not tried the one in Oakland by the ball park. Do you know of any others or the one specificaly with tools.

The plane came from the Antique Trove. There were a couple of Restoration worthy stanleys in there if anyone in the local area is interested. 60 1/2, 3c Type 11 and a #4 that looked pretty good. There were a number of others as well That did not stick out.


----------



## Nawfalk

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


Wayne…I have been lurking on the forum for a bit and have followed your hand plane restorations. I have obtained Stanley #4, #5, #7C, and a Wards Master #6. The Japanning is about 60-70% intact on all planes except the #7C which has about 95% of it intact. I am interested in your process for shellacing the #4, #5, and #6. Do you have a preference of brush over spray? How many coats?

As for the #7C, it is a type 11 and in great shape. Would T9 be the way to go on that whole plane?

My shop is a completely unplugged shack on the river in my back yard, so I am trying to keep these as protected as humanly possible. I appreciate your, as well as any other Jock's, input.


----------



## superdav721

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


Very nice find. As far as price that was well worth it. Cant wait to see the refurb. The worst thing that gets me is a part swap or replacement. I will get hung up on the condition and squareness and not pay attention to say, the wedge is not the original. I found a smother one time. Good ++. Purchased it and didn't notice the angle of the blade. Its a toothing plane. I now have a great plane body but am in need of a toothing blade. I will find one then I will have a reason to start hide glue veneering
A two dollar saw WOW


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Struck out at the flea market*
> 
> My son and I went to the local flea market looking for a rusty block plane to try out the evapo rust. I was hoping to find a 102 or 103 for a buck or two. I wanted to try it before starting on the Stanley 112. It is too nice of a plane for it to be used for the trial.
> 
> I was not able to find any good candiates for testing the evapo-rust. Anyway, I ended up walking out having only spent $2 on an old back saw. Cest 'la vie.
> 
> 
> 
> We stopped at a local antique store on the way home. I found a 22" wooden Fore plane and decided to bring it home to restore.
> 
> Manufacture: Cox and Luckman (1839 - 1914) Birmingham England with a Robert Sorby Iron - Kangaroo Logo
> 
> Size: 22 1/4 long x 3 1/2 wide
> 
> Owner: J. A. Morgan - stamped all over the plane (even in the blade bed)
> 
> Cost: $27
> 
> Condition: Good. Mouth may be too wide and might need to be patched. As it stands it would not be able to take a fine shaving. There is a hairline crack in the front part of the handle but the handle appears to be quite solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the crack in the forward part of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a Stanley Fore plane (#6)
> 
> 
> 
> Have a good weekend.


I missed your questions Nawfalk. I am just brushing a single coat of shellac on the planes to inhibit rust on the body. On the #7 I would try to clean it with a damp cloth….

Thanks superdav. I normally ask for a price then carefully look the item over to make sure it is complete and determine if there is any damage.


----------



## WayneC

*New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*

Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.

I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.

The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.

The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.

Side views

















Top view









Sole









Workings of the plane









Front view









The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.

The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.

For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.

That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


----------



## donwilwol

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Nice plane wayne. I'm not sure of the "collector" hang up. It's not like buying an unused plane and using it. I will "collect" rare planes and tools if the opportunity arises, and would only do restorations that would increase the value. Enjoy the purchase.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


I agree Don. I will only schallac the body of the plane and wax the parts. No stripping, repainting or other stuff on this guy. Over time I will try to find an original blade and adjuster in good condition.


----------



## bigike

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


wow that doesn't look like it needs any work at all! Nice find though. How much if you don't mind me askin?


----------



## Chelios

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Nice score! - What a good looking plane. It was probably expensive but surely worth it. I am sure you will put it to good use.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


I don't mind Ike. It was $165 plus shipping.


----------



## venicewoodworker

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Dude….....You are a collector also. Tomorrow, when you look at yourself in the mirror, say this phrase…."I am both a user AND collector….there is nothing wrong with that. May the good lord give me the guidance to know when to collect. The knowledge on what to use and the common sense to know the difference between the tools."


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Hi Wayne,
Congratulations!!!
It looks like a beauty, a real beauty.
(You know I think this is probaly the most beautiful hand plane ever made).
I think also you should restore it as little as possible, it is in a super shape, just as we want a old plane to look.
I can provide you with the details you need so you can make a new adjuster, I will take mine apart and give you photos and measures. I think if you put some efford into making your own, this will be a kind of update.
Remember to check the LN blade fits (ask them) even the models are the same the blade dont always fit.
The knob will be fine with epoxy and that is no issue.
Look forward to see shavings from that baby.
I think the price was also more than fair, but this must be due to the missing adjuster (so you can easy doubble the value or more by fixing it).
Congrat.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Karson

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Nice buy Wayne


----------



## SST

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Very nice find, Wayne. If you're just going to use it & are not a restoration nut (I use "nut" in the best possible meaning, here) I'm not sure I'd worry about the missing adjuster, as it works fine without it. I'd just glue the knob, or turn a new one & use an appropriate sized washer spacer. (probably a fender washer)

As to the "I am not a collector" thing…relax…I'm not a collector either, and just to keep myself convinced of that, I go around & zip off a few shavings with each of my 25 or so planes. It's as simple as that, really.

(By the way, if that doesn't work, what with having a LN version, & all, I will do the following favor for you…only in the interest of you hanging on to your sanity and all. I'll store it for you in my shop (at no charge, mind you) and email photos of all shavings made with it. Think about it. You won,t get a better deal than that. -SST


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Mads, thanks for the offer of the photo and information, I was going to ask you if you could measure the thickness of the adjuster. I was thinking my first move would be to put a brass fender washer under the knob. When the plane gets here I will check the LN adjuster to see on the off chance if it fits. I am guessing I will have to make one. I'm in agreement to do as little as possible to the plane.

Venice, I will try my best. I want to avoid having shelves full of redundant planes. My intent is to use all the planes I have in my woodworking.

Karson, thanks Sir.

Tom, I feel the value of the plane is such that it is worth finding the adjuster and a the correct original blade. Perhaps if you had offered visiting rights and a monthly video of it in use I would have considered your offer…lol

As a side note, I did get the LN replacement blade on order. It should be here before the plane arrives.


----------



## Bertha

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


A dream of mine.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Hi Wayne,

I have made you a little present, it is a drawing with specifications you can print and then just make your own.










Press this link and download as PDF so you can print it in scale.
http://www.felding.net/image/pic/sparewaynes62.pdf

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Wow. Thank you so much for the drawing. I greatly appreciate you taking the time to do this. It will be very helpful in making the part and may help others who have the same issue. I'm starting to look for the right metal.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Happy to be able to help you.
You could use brass also if you cant get the metal.
Think you have to solder the pin in place with silver solder since this will have some force to it.
Are you familiar with silver solder?
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Thanks again Sir. I am hoping others will find this of use as well.

I was thinking brass just because of it's availability, but would prefer the original look. Going to do some hunting online. I am familar with silver solder. I will have to look into what I have available in the shop for soldering. I have some stuff for doing electronic work.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.












I was thinking of you today, I am trying to give new life to a old Disson saw, and to play with my carving tools, to make a flower on the handle and little details.
I can feel I need som training, but it is great fun.

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


That looks like a wonderful way to spend a day. I'm slowly getting some saws. I lost a bid on some lovely Distons yesterday. There were 3 saws two as a pair and a single. One of the pair and the single had the same owners name engraved on the blade. I won the single but lost on the pair. Kind of makes me sad that they are split up but it was getting pretty expensive.

I just got an email from Craftsman Studio that the LN replacement blade is on a 6-8 week back order. I am going to switch to woodcraft/IBC.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


I cancelled my Craftsman Studio order and now have an IBC blade on order from Woodcraft.

Mads, I'm looking at this site to order metal. http://www.onlinemetals.com/index.cfm Would you think Brass or Nickel? It looks like they would cut custom pieces so I would not have to order a full sheet. This was the site recommended by Finewoodworking to get metals for making brass dovetail guages. I will probably get some of that while I am here.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Hi Wayne,
For the metal I think you should send them a mail and explain the purpose, then they can advice you.
Don't you have a smith or a junk yard close so you can get a scrap piece…
I just subscribed a three years membership on FWM so now I will see if the sun shines brighter there…
Fighting to become a web member so I can see some videos.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Bertha

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Wayne, after searching for bar/sheet stock, I dropped into my local ACE to buy a weedeater blade & asked on my way out, "y'all don't have any brass bar stock do you". The guy led me over to an area chock full of bar stock, sheet stock, you name it. I bought enough to make about 100 plane hammers, sheet steel, you name it. You might surprise yourself and find sheet stock locally. You could always cut up something around the shop


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Al, I know a hardware store and a hobby shop that would have some brass stock. It is just difficult to get out these days given the leg.

Mads, kind of the same thing. I would normally be out poking around and could find something. It is often easier to find it online and have it delivered these days. I know it is more expensive and eats tool/book/wood money. My question on the metal was more about original apperance. I was thinking the Nickel might look more like the origional part. I spent some time thinking about it in the pool today. I think I will go with brass. It is easier to get and eventually I will find a real part to replace it with.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Wayne I agree the nickel would look more original.
The brass will be easier to work, and would look fine and perhaps add some personality.
Really Wayne you do not need to bother to find a original, since the original are just a bend piece of metal with no ornamentation or other details, so the one you make will be eaqually fine than the original.
If you bother if it looks all original, then go for the nickel plate or simply a metal plate. 
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


I'm thinking about the long term value of the plane. Having the original adjuster and a good original blade will significantly increase the value of the plane. I a guessing they are going to be harder and harder to get your hands on. Brass will be a good reminder for me to keep looking.


----------



## superdav721

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Wayne great find, sorry to be so late haven't been online much. 
Ok here is my line "hello my name is Dave I am not a collector I am a user." Now that is out of the way. 
I love the plane and good luck on replacement parts and or making them.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Thanks Dave. Sounds like things are busy these days.


----------



## Radish

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


That is a lovely plane. I believe I agree with Mafe. They obviously were at the point that ornamentation for it's own sake was still being practiced. I hope you will let us know how the IBC blade does.
If you go brass, you might check Blick art on-line, or the tried and true McMaster Carr. I could spend days at the latter site…


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Doug, Will do on the IBC update. I'm going to check a local hardware store for brass before I order online. I finally made it to home depot tonight and got some contact cement to make a strop for carving knife sharpening. I checked their metal stock and they did not have any brass. Only Iron and Aluminium.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


I got a sheet of brass and some rod today. Just need the plane to get here…. lol Still need to get some epoxy to repair the knob.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *New Restoration Candidate - Stanley #62 part 1*
> 
> Time to get this blog active again. I had been overrun with work for a long time and not doing much of anything in the shop for quite a while. That is not a good pattern for one's work-life balance. In Feburary, I fell while on a business trip and this has temporarily left me without the use of my right leg. I have had lots of time to reflect and to renew my commitment to getting working in the shop again. Although, it is probably going to be another month or more before I am able to get out there, clean it up and get working. Currently my shop looks like a nuclear bomb went off in there.
> 
> I won this plane on ebay over the weekend. I have been looking for a Stanley 62 for quite a while and was excited to see this one come available as a buy it now plane. I checked it over several times and then went for it.
> 
> The Stanley 62 is a low angle jack plane with a bed angle of 12 degrees. The plane is designed for plaining difficult grain and across the grain. It is also a good plane for use with a shooting board. My intent is to put this plane into use my shop, although this does raise an ethical delema. I have to keep telling myself that I am not a collector over and over because I currently own the Lie-Nielsen (LN) version of this plane. I figured when I bought it that I was going the cheaper route buying the LN. LOL, I was probably right.
> 
> The plane is currently in the mail, but looking at the photos it has 3 condition issues that need to be over come. (The photos are from the original listing.) The first issue is that it has a cracked front knob. This can be directly attributed to the second issue where the brass adjustment lever is missing from the front of the plane. The 3rd issue is the blade. The blade has been over sharpened, to do this a previous owner ground out the slot in the blade, allowing the blade to be sharpened further down. It is clear from this that the plane was used a lot during it's long life. Hopefully I will not discover any additional issues when I recieve and dissassemble the plane.
> 
> Side views
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sole
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Workings of the plane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The most difficult issue to over come will be the missing adjustment lever. I have searched the various part dealers and have not seen anything. I will keep my eyes open for a busted up 62 parts plane as well. When the plane arrives I was also going to check to see if the LN's adjuster will fit. If so I will call LN to see if they will sell me one. In the interem I plan to install a washer in place of the adjustment knob to prevent the over tightening that had cracked the knob in the first place. If anyone has a lead for this part it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> The knob should be a straight forward repair. If it is glued solid, I will probably leave as is. Otherwise, I will reglue. I have seen an original replacement knob for sale for about $90. However, I would turn my own before spending that kind of money on one.
> 
> For the blade, Stanley, IBC and LN all make replacement blades. The Stanley sweetheart replacement blade is the cheapest, but I am not sure if it will fit the original #62 or not. Woodcraft currently has the #62 IBC blades on Sale for $41. LN has their replacement blade for $45. I think I am more inclined to go with the LN blade and plan to order from Craftsman Studio later tonight.
> 
> That about wraps it for tonight. Next post will be when I recieve the plane and have a chance to tear it apart and get some photos taken.


Jabbby dabby doo


----------



## WayneC

*Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*

Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".

I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!

So here are some photos.

*Side view*


Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.

*Top View*


In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.

*The Surprise*


As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.

*Close up of the cap and blade*


*Closeup of blade adjustment knob*

*Sliding part of the mouth*

*Mouth*


*Knob*


You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.

*Brass stock*


Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.

*Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*


Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.

*Blades*


Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.

*Blade Depth adjustment*


In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.

*Front of the planes*


Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.

*From the Side*


There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


----------



## donwilwol

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


nice comparison. It will be interesting to see how they compare in use. I do like the looks of the wood on the stanley better. (minus the crack of course)


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Hopefully the crack will dissappear on repair. I need to find some gnarly wood to test the planes side by side.


----------



## sedcokid

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Great Blog!! Interesting comparison, once the repair is complete will you be posting new photos.

Thanks for sharing


----------



## bigike

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


wowNow I see their the same exact plane interms of body shape anyway.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Chuck, I will blog the process as I go. I'm planning to show the repairs as I make them and then the final results. It might be a bit before I do the performance compairason. (have a broken leg)


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Ike, yeah Lie-Nielson modeled their Low Angle Jack after the Stanley #62. The 62 is pretty hard to find in the wild. In most cases it is cheaper to buy a LN, Veritas, or new Stanley Sweetheart version.


----------



## Karson

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Wanye:

A nice comparson. Good luck on the restoration.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Congrat again, now it's home.
Welcome in the 62 club.
Since the mouth have a back of the blade problem this should have no effect I agree (strange why it is so), and the front seems perfect, this would have been a problem.
When you fix the knob, buy some dye you can color the epoxy while wet with, in this way you can make a 'invisible repair, I have done this with some knifes with good results.
I must say I like the Stanley sooooo much better, it is elegant and classy, the LN is a screamer with pling compared i think.
BEAUTIFUL.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Thanks Karson.

Mads, I agree the mouth is strange. Woodcraft sells epoxy, wood filler and dye. I'm hoping to get there tomorrow. I agree the look of the plane is wonderful though the LN feels more substantial. It will be fun to run them over the same wood.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Yes it is going to be interesting to hear a test.
You might be the only guy on the planet that acually have both!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Mads, I'm guessing there are quite a few folks running around with the LN, Veritas, Old and new Stanleys. I wonder if there will actually be much difference or if the test will really come down to the difference between LV vs IBC cutter.


----------



## TheGravedigger

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


I'm really curious to see if that wonky mouth opening causes any chatter. On a bevel-down plane I wouldn't expect any problems, but have no idea how a bevel-up will behave. Gonna be interesting.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


I was wondering the same thing. I am guessing the IBC blade will also be a factor. It will be thicker than the stock blade. I just got back from woodcraft. I picked up the epoxy and dye.


----------



## RGtools

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Getting green over here. Nice score.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Thanks sir.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Look what I found today. It is now in the mail. Also, the IBC blade arrived today.


----------



## Karson

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Good things happen to those who wait!!


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Ahhh congratulations!
That is wonderful, now the baby can become full born.
Even I am almost sad since I was looking forward to see you make one.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Thanks Mads. I really would like for the plane to be complete with Stanley Parts but like you I was looking forward to making the lever. I'm still kicking around the idea of making one for fun. I was looking at an original blade as well, but it wouild have cost me as much as the two bow saws I purchased last night. So, I will keep looking for that as well. This will be good to have if I ever decide to sell the plane or my daughter does not want my tools when I am gone.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


You can find other purpose for the materials, I have started a build on a little plane with brass sides.
Yes we have the same luxury of daughters, this also mean no one to take over the tools… My daughter is only 12 now so perhaps she will get more interested in tool later we never know, I hope for some grand children or a son in law that could take over one day.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


My daughter is 22 now and has had interest in carving and turning in the past. She is a senior in college now. I'm hoping the interest carries forward.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


What a wonderful picture.
And what a beautiful daughter you have. What part of the world is your family roods she could be a Skandinavian girl of looks. (She looks so much like a girlfriend I had 20 years ago that I thought for a second it was her).
I have not tried the lathe with my daughter yet, she is still not too happy for powertools on the run, but perhaps it will come.
Yes we can always hope.
Big smile her,
Mads


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Pen turning is a good way to introduce a young person to turning. They get to successfully create something that they will value in a relatively short period of time. Perhaps with one of the carbide pen turining tools.

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Pen_Making___Pen_Making_Tools___Easy_Pen_Turner___ewt_pen_tool?Args=


----------



## donwilwol

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


I agree with Mads. My daughter is just a bit older. Her specialty is "Dad, can you make me a….."


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #62 Part 2 - Inspection*
> 
> Whoot. The plane arrived today. I unpacked it and started the inspection. I only found one surprise which is a good thing. Now all I need is for the IBC blade to arrive and I will be ready to "get er done".
> 
> I picked up some brass sheet and rod yesterday, so I can also begin the process of creating a new lever to adjust the mouth. Thanks again Mads!!!!
> 
> So here are some photos.
> 
> *Side view*
> 
> 
> Things to look out for in this photo. If you look at the depth adjustment knob, you can see that two much of it is exposed. This indicates the blade has been ground way down and this case needs to be replaced. The other thing you can see is that the front knob is missing the lever used to adjust the mouth of the plane and the knob is cracked.
> 
> *Top View*
> 
> 
> In this view, you can see the cracked knob, the blade that is too short and missing adjustment lever. The depth adjustment of the plane and lever cap look real good. The rear tote is also solid and in good shape. There is some Jappanning loss but no real rust.
> 
> *The Surprise*
> 
> 
> As you can see from this photo the back of the mouth is out of square and looks like it may have been filed at some point. This was something I did not pickup from the ebay photos when I was inspecting it for purchase. I'm pretty sure this will not affect the performance of the plane.
> 
> *Close up of the cap and blade*
> 
> 
> *Closeup of blade adjustment knob*
> 
> *Sliding part of the mouth*
> 
> *Mouth*
> 
> 
> *Knob*
> 
> 
> You can see that I will need to use epoxy to fill the gap in the knob when I repair it. The break is not clean enough for glue alone.
> 
> *Brass stock*
> 
> 
> Note the washer, that was under the frog. I am guessing it was an attempt to prevent the knob from breaking. When I got the brass stock, I also got a large brass washer to use in the interim. You can see it in some of the later photos.
> 
> *Side by side with a Lie-Nielson #62*
> 
> 
> Note that the casting appears to be heavier on the LN plane, the blade is much more substantial, and there are two screws on the tote. Also it is clear that there is no way an LN adjuster could be used to replace the original one in the Stanley.
> 
> *Blades*
> 
> 
> Note the differences in usable blade lenght and also the dreaded thickness difference. (reference to the thickness debate that was going on in the handplane threads for a while). The LN blade is much thicker than the original blade. The shortness is best seen by comparing the distance between the edge of the blade and the hole where the cap screw goes on the blade.
> 
> *Blade Depth adjustment*
> 
> 
> In this photo you can see the differences in blade adjustment mechanics. LN has a single slot on the blade that mates with the knob. The Stanley has a mechanizm simiar to the ones used on block planes. A standard LN blade will not work as a replacement.
> 
> *Front of the planes*
> 
> 
> Note how beefy the adjustment lever is on the LN plane.
> 
> *From the Side*
> 
> 
> There you have it. The next step is for me to make the adjuster and repair the knob. Hopefully it will not take woodcraft too long to ship the blade.


Yes, I have a pair of small maple tables that are overdue completion that she ordered quite a while back. Need to finish them up.


----------



## WayneC

*English Wooden Chamfer Plane*

This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).

There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


----------



## bigike

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


very nice it looks as though it doesn't need any work though.


----------



## RGtools

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


I looks like this plane did not start life as a chamfer plane. That the only way I can explain the "missing" insert.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Ike, I debated where to put it. My main purpose for posting this was to be a template for Mads to make one.

RG, it could be a remade tool.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Hi Wayne thank you!
I have seen these planes but never understood how they were put together, now I do.
RG, this I do not understand why? And what should be missing here.
The problem I can see with this type should be lack of support behind the blade as it comes out, so you need to take thin shavings and then tap the blade down as you go.
Best thoughts,
Mads And thank you again Wayne, it's a really nice little plane you got you.


----------



## RGtools

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


The "insert" is not deep enough for an insert, if you put one in now it would interfere with the operation of the plane. Look closely at the 6th picture and you will see what I mean.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


The insert comes out about 1/8th of an inch to create a mouth for the plane. You can see it in the bottom of the v. I belive the triangle in the center of the v represents the size of the chamfer.


----------



## Bertha

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


I was thinking the same thing. It seems as if it started out as a smoother and someone excavated the sole and added a block. How they did that with such precision, I'll never know. It seems as if the block with forever prevent the sole from fully engaging the piece. Am I missing something too?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


I believe this just takes an 1/8th of an inch chamfer off of the edge of the wood. The wooden inset is the part that goes against the cut. The V's ride on the sides of the boards being chamfered. The blade protrudes at the back of the wooden inset. Here is a photo where you can see the blade…


----------



## Bertha

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Nice photo, Wayne, I get it now!


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Thanks. This is a pretty good view as well…


----------



## Bertha

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


So it looks like the first pass or two will be pretty agressive, but I'm not sure how you'd avoid that and still have support behind the blade. The block still looks a bit tall to me; how thick would you estimate that step? It looks like 1/8" at this magnification but that could be deceiving.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


It is about 1/8". The mouth can be adjusted to take a very fine cut. I just raised the blade so it could be easily seen. I believe you would start with the edge being chamfered on the block and not at the toe of the plane. Otherwise you would just hit the leading edge of the block.


----------



## RGtools

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Ah it all makes sense now. That is cool.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


: ^ )


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Sence to me too.
It should be enough support.
Thank you.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Bertha

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Like they say, Wayne, a picture's worth a 1000 words. I think you're right, give it a few general passes with the block, then finish it with the chamfer. I really want one now!


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Mads, hope to see a creation from you in this area soon.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Wayne, I have hollydays the next three weeks from Sunday so I will be invisible… More or less.
I have two un finished shoulder planes, four knifes, a saw vise, a bunch of saws to sharpen and are working on a shaving horse… So I think it will take just a little time before I get there.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Boy that is a lot of excuses….lol Sounds like you have your hands full.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Laugh


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## Bertha

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


I've got the planebuilding bug…really bad. I've just got so much going on right now. My project list is laughable.


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Ouch Al, that and a new tool budget? How will you get by?


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## donwilwol

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Al, I know what you mean. I walk in my shop, start something, and next thing i know, I've switched gears because something was in my way. I wish I had a shop organizing service.


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


It appears Phillip Edwards (long time LumberJock) is now selling chamfer planes. The fence design on this one is pretty nice. This video show them in operation if your not familiar with how they are used.


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## WOmadeOD

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Nice plane.
I believe it may be a chamfer finishing plane. Set for a fine cut, it can follow up after roughing the chamfer quickly with a jack or block plane set fairly coarse, truing the 45 degree angle and leaving a smooth finish.
It needs no 'support' behind the plane iron, since the vee soul will support the final cut. The inset soul is there to support, reducing tear out.
At least that's my take on it.
Will be nice to hear how it performs once it's tidied up.


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *English Wooden Chamfer Plane*
> 
> This is a recent eBay purchase. I am posting this for Mads. He would like to make one and requested some photos. This plane is 6 inches long by 2 inches wide and the body is 2 1/2" Tall. There is a wood insert at the mouth that make the overall plane approximately 3 inches tall. The blade is 8 inches long 1 1/2 inches wide and is a little over 1/8 inch thick. The blade is marked The blade is marked J. Herring and Sons, England and has the image of a fish above the name. There is no manufacture name on the plane. There are two owner names on the plane (S. Reed and A. Barnard).
> 
> There is a block inserted in the chamfer that the blade is aligned with. The chamfer begins in 1/4 inch from each side. It appears to be 7/8's from the bottom of the sole at it's peak.


Thanks for the info sir.


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## WayneC

*Guess I need to get back to work. *

Queue is getting too long.


----------



## Woodwrecker

WayneC said:


> *Guess I need to get back to work. *
> 
> Queue is getting too long.


Quit buying.
Start restoring…lol
(any one of those three jointers would look nice on my bench !)


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Guess I need to get back to work. *
> 
> Queue is getting too long.


I agree. The bad part this is not all of them.

The one on the left has a big chunk out of its side. It is going to be used for parts.


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## Woodwrecker

WayneC said:


> *Guess I need to get back to work. *
> 
> Queue is getting too long.


Wayne, you have to make something with those planes.
Your spoon project is almost two years ago ! lol


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## donwilwol

WayneC said:


> *Guess I need to get back to work. *
> 
> Queue is getting too long.


I'm a similar situation. Add the walker turner lathe and I'm waaay behind.


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## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Guess I need to get back to work. *
> 
> Queue is getting too long.


Eric, I've been burred in work lately. Need to clean out the shop and save some time for woodworking projects.

Looking forward to seeing the how the lathe turns out Don.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *Guess I need to get back to work. *
> 
> Queue is getting too long.


That's life.
There is a time for every thing.
Now for buying.
I know you enjoy the road and this is what is important.
Best thoughts my friend,
Mads


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## WayneC

*Stanley #55 *

I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.

If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here

Combination Plane Manuals

Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.

Photos below.


----------



## donwilwol

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.


This will be fun to watch!


----------



## Mosquito

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.


Oooh that will be fun!


----------



## CFrye

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.


Nice!!


----------



## WhoMe

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.


So since the 55 and it's accoutrements take up the whole tool box, where are you going to put
the rest of the planes?
Lol, BTW, extremely jealous. That was an amazing find.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.





> So since the 55 and it s accoutrements take up the whole tool box, where are you going to put
> the rest of the planes?
> Lol, BTW, extremely jealous. That was an amazing find.
> 
> - WhoMe


Thanks. 

The other planes (bench, block, router, etc.) planes actually in my main tool chest. I'm thinking of using individual drawers to hold the other combination planes, though it means they would need to be stored disassembled.


----------



## donwilwol

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.


I'm assuming you haven't found this thread yet Wayne

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/43282


----------



## theoldfart

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.


Wayne, impressive display. Were the H&R's with the 55?


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.





> I m assuming you haven t found this thread yet Wayne
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/topics/43282
> 
> - Don W


I had, just have not been over there in a while.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.





> Wayne, impressive display. Were the H&R s with the 55?
> 
> - theoldfart


They were separate and actually go with my 45.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.


"a complete set of combination planes…"

Oh my. If this set includes the Millers Patent line, my hat is off to you. Well, you've got a #55, so my hat is already off.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.


I've got a Millers 42. But I was not planning to complete those. That would be a very expensive affair. I have Stanley 45, 46, 50, and 55. Record 043 and 044. I think I am going to get a Record 405 when one comes up when I have some money available.


----------



## Grumpy

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.


Good one Wayne.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.





> Good one Wayne.
> 
> - Grumpy


Thanks.


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *Stanley #55 *
> 
> I'm in the process of putting together a complete set of combination planes. I recently added a Stanley 55 and some accessories to go with it. I have a small tool cabinet that I am adapting to store the planes.
> 
> If you need a manual for the 55 one can be found here
> 
> Combination Plane Manuals
> 
> Note: The Hollow and Rounds are for use on a 45. The fence configuration is different between the 45 and the 55 and they do not fit on the 55.
> 
> Photos below.


Have to admit I am highly jealous on that one!
Wauuuuuuu a beauty.
Congrat.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## WayneC

*Tony - Stanley Bedrock 602*

I got an awesome buy it now deal on this plane. I did a light clean-up this afternoon to get him in the tool box. The plane got its name from a crudely scrawled owner's name "Tony" on the side and tote. I'm down to two bedrocks to complete the full set.


----------



## donwilwol

WayneC said:


> *Tony - Stanley Bedrock 602*
> 
> I got an awesome buy it now deal on this plane. I did a light clean-up this afternoon to get him in the tool box. The plane got its name from a crudely scrawled owner's name "Tony" on the side and tote. I'm down to two bedrocks to complete the full set.


I think I've got 3. this one included.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Tony - Stanley Bedrock 602*
> 
> I got an awesome buy it now deal on this plane. I did a light clean-up this afternoon to get him in the tool box. The plane got its name from a crudely scrawled owner's name "Tony" on the side and tote. I'm down to two bedrocks to complete the full set.





> I think I ve got 3. this one included.
> 
> - Don W


The 605 1/4 is the remaining tough one. I'm going to add a 604 when I find one. I had not gotten one before because I have a LN 604. Getting the 602 has me rethinking that.


----------



## donwilwol

WayneC said:


> *Tony - Stanley Bedrock 602*
> 
> I got an awesome buy it now deal on this plane. I did a light clean-up this afternoon to get him in the tool box. The plane got its name from a crudely scrawled owner's name "Tony" on the side and tote. I'm down to two bedrocks to complete the full set.


I think all i need is a 602, 604 1/2 and 605 1/4.

the 3 toughest.


----------



## WayneC

WayneC said:


> *Tony - Stanley Bedrock 602*
> 
> I got an awesome buy it now deal on this plane. I did a light clean-up this afternoon to get him in the tool box. The plane got its name from a crudely scrawled owner's name "Tony" on the side and tote. I'm down to two bedrocks to complete the full set.


I see 604 1/2 on eBay all the time. The trick is finding one for a reasonable price.


----------



## donwilwol

WayneC said:


> *Tony - Stanley Bedrock 602*
> 
> I got an awesome buy it now deal on this plane. I did a light clean-up this afternoon to get him in the tool box. The plane got its name from a crudely scrawled owner's name "Tony" on the side and tote. I'm down to two bedrocks to complete the full set.


I know, and the 605 1/4 usually stay a little under the $500 mark


----------



## mafe

WayneC said:


> *Tony - Stanley Bedrock 602*
> 
> I got an awesome buy it now deal on this plane. I did a light clean-up this afternoon to get him in the tool box. The plane got its name from a crudely scrawled owner's name "Tony" on the side and tote. I'm down to two bedrocks to complete the full set.


You guys are wonderful!
Lovely plane dear Wayne, really a gem.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------

