# lathe turns very slow HELP



## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I took a piece off the lathe to cut and put it uped the hi speed back on and when I turned the lathe on it barly turned. the motor groans and sometime won't turn next lower speed the same changed belt back and forth and will work on fourth speed, it is reliable fro third down. I loosened the tail stock to just barly puting pressure on to get to work on fourth won't work on fith at all even with no wood whats wrong. I have only had the lathe about 9 months. its an HF midi lathe


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Can you turn the headstock by hand (you might need to loosen the belt if it won't turn by hand). 
Do hear or feel any grinding noises when you turn it.

Can you turn the motor shaft by hand?

Does it smell like something is burning?

Is the belt damaged?


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

the belts fine I even tuned it on with out tension just motor weight on the belt and it still turned slow. I am roughing on lowest speed and it works fine seems to be an issue i n the higher speeds 3 4 5. motor shaft turns freely, can't detect any grating some times the piece just won't move but usually just groans and moves very slow I don't see any damage to the belt or wheels. However I did notice some black streaks on the raised part of the tread. But that won't be on the hi speed because tonight is the first time I have used it. I can't figure it. could the belt be slipping,


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Does it actually make a groaning noise? Does it only do this when you have something on the lathe or all the time?

Make sure that the screw that tightens the pulley to the motor shaft is tight.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

yea thats how I would describe it, sould like an electric motor that want to go but won't yes it does it when there is no wood on the lathe. I'll check the pully screw but why does it work right at slow speed but not hi


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

You need to do basic troubleshooting. To start, disconnect the belt from the motor and turn it on. If the motor is bad you'll know right away. If it runs fine then it's probably lathe bearings. Check that by trying to turn the spindle by hand. Do that and report back.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I checked the motor without the belt it purrs like brand new. this head stock rotates freely with no slop or noise.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

So the spindle spins freely and the motor spins freely but when you connect them with the belt, it barely turns. And it was fine one minute, bad the next and it makes a groaning sound. My guess is the motor, unless the belt is binding somewhere.


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## xunil76 (Feb 16, 2017)

did you remember to disengage the parking brake? =)


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

WHAT ABOUT START CAPASITOR ??? :<))


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

the parking brake is not the issue since the wood turns some time 1st 3 speed work ok i4th is iffy 5 won't work at all. so the brake can't be on besides we are talking lathe not car, but if we were it couldn't be the brake.
I'll bite what is a CAPASITOR. Could it be the switch


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

You'll have to bust out a multimeter and do some troubleshooting since the problem isn't being obvious. I don't believe there is enough information for anyone to do anything but guess. It is worth checking the connections inside the switch to make sure everything is tight since that is the only thing you touched. Better yet, check it with a multimeter.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

Thanks that is my next step, finding somebody to do that, I could check connection even wire a new switch but when it comes to that kinda thing I haven't a clue


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I was searching Utube central machinery wood lathes and found one motor problem a guy had same as mine turned very slow. He changed the capacitor. should that be the problem how would i go about findi ng one, I checked ebay and found a ton of lathe parts but no capacitors


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

A capacitor is not a lathe part, it's a motor part. Pull the one you have to find the rating of it. Should be under a cover attached to the motor on the back side of the lathe and should be less than $10. Probably would be a good idea to test it with a multi-meter first to verify it's bad.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

ok thanks, now gota find out how to do that


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Wikihow of all places actually has a good tutorial.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

ok thanks, where do I get a decent capacitor


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

my local hardware store has them in stock :<)) check it out first with a multimeter


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

whats the difference between a multimeter and an ohm meter, I trying to find out how to do it but I don't know if i can the wires from the motor are about 2 inches long. If i cut one to short I'll have to buy a new lathe. Im dumb at things lime that


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

A multimeter is an ohm meter (ie: they both will measure resistance). You don't test with the thing plugged in, so shorting wires will not harm anything. And you should not have to cut anything - the wires on the capacitor should have spade connectors and simply unplug.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

mine is wired and the wires from the motor are 2" long is a pic


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

try this : 



 :<))


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## sawdustdad (Dec 23, 2015)

Are you sure the pulleys are tight on the shafts? Motor pulley and headstock pulley? If they are keyed to the shaft, the key may have sheared, allowing the pulley to spin but not the headstock, or the motor will spin but the motor's shaft will just spin inside the pulley.

Check this before you go replacing the starter cap. (which, despite it being a HF tool, I'm betting is fine).


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

everything is tight besides if the pulleys were lose it would affect all speeds not just the highest 2. I was useing the lathe earlier , it worked fine but I was working on the 3rd speed 4 barley turns and 5 won't turn at all.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Note: Before you disconnect the capacitor or touch the connections on it, it is a good idea to take a screwdriver with a good insulated handle and short out the wires. Capacitors can store a charge for a while and you don't want to get zapped.

BTW, you can what looks like a compatible capacitor on Amazon for about $10, though it might be cheaper on ebay if you want to deal with that.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

thats another question i have I ubderstand how and why it needs to be done but how do i do it when the ends are crimped there is nothing to contact with


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Don't worry about it… the cap discharges as soon as the motor stops and the start circuit closes. Cut out those little plastic crimp connectors, test the cap, and use wire ties to put it back together.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

what are wire ties, can the crimp connectors themselves be cut instead of the wire maybe with a dremal cut off wheel. That way i wouldn't lose wire. what numbers do I search to get the right part


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Maybe a case of too tight? Tailstock is cranked to tight . was an issue on the lathe I had. Had to back off the tail stock a hair, until the stock got up to speed.

Release the pressure of the tail stock just a tad, and see how that helps.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Sorry… meant to say wire nuts.










Cheers,
Brad


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

oh oky the only wire ties I know about are zip ties yea that will work.

The tailstock is not an issue, won't rune with no wood mounted


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I have been watching utubes about capacitors and have a couple questions. if you would prefer to move it to a different thread do so

how do i test my lathe capacitor, it is a wired capacitor but in utbe all that is shown is how to test a bayonet type that can be safely removed for testing.

I can't find my exact capacitor, the one lazy man posted is 25 uf and mine is 26 uf is that a critical number, how far off can it be. thanks Mike


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Cut the crimps, pull the capacitor out, strip back the wires and test there. 25uf is fine… as long as it's +/- 5% and rated for 120v or more.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

ok thanks Brad, as long as the lathe hasn't been run will it be discharged


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

This cap will work…. Higher voltage doesn't matter. Don't use lower voltage than orginal.
https://www.ebay.com/p/US-Cbb60-25uf-Wire-Lead-Cylinder-Motor-Run-SH-Capacitor-AC-450v/926854985?iid=302241082456


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

> ok thanks Brad, as long as the lathe hasn t been run will it be discharged
> 
> - Karda


He said earlier that it would discharge after it's turned off. If you are still nervous, just carefully touch the ends of the wires together after cutting them (one at a time) to be doubly sure.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

thank you for your patience, I get a little paranoid some times. I ordered the cap why me suggested thanks every body for all your help Mike


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

got my new capacitor and hooked it up no change can they be wired backwards


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## LeeMills (Nov 2, 2014)

I am sure you have checked them but…
you stated..
"everything is tight besides if the pulleys were lose it would affect all speeds not just the highest 2. I was useing the lathe earlier , it worked fine but I was working on the 3rd speed 4 barley turns and 5 won't turn at all."

Cars popped into my mind. Floor a Yugo and off you go, floor a Porsche and you just sit there with the tires spinning. Is it possible a set screw is tight enough for low speed to grip but loose enough to slip at high speed?
I don't know, just a wag.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I checked the screws, they seemed as tight as they can get. I can get fourth going but I have to spin the work by hand. I was looking at utubes and saw one where a turner had to start the lathe by spinning the wood after he started. He went to get a nu capacitor. his wasn't bad, the shop owner said to check the centrifugal switch. That was it. But that is getting into to work that is beyond me. if i can't find some body to work on it i do what I can till it quits


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Did you check the capacitor before buying a new one? Did you check the new one (they have been known to ship bad from the supplier - it's not unheard of and they do have a limited shelf life). Could be the centrifugal switch. But you will have to pull the end bell off the motor. If you can get it to work by spinning it by hand, then it does sound like something in the start circuit. Could be as simple as some sawdust stuck between the contacts.

Cheers,
Brad


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

First I think it would be best if we knew what kind of lathe you had.

Then we can go from there knowing the type and year and if it is a pulley driven or variable speed or a Reeves drive.


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

> Maybe a case of too tight? Tailstock is cranked to tight . was an issue on the lathe I had. Had to back off the tail stock a hair, until the stock got up to speed.
> 
> Release the pressure of the tail stock just a tad, and see how that helps.
> 
> - bandit571


Bandit

That should never be a problem unless the bearings are bad. I know a lot of people back in the day used to bang the wood on the headstock with a hammer to set the wood and then bring up the tailstock. It would damage the bearings more and more until they got rid of it since they had a problem later.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> First I think it would be best if we knew what kind of lathe you had.


For those of you who haven't been following along with the drama  It's a HF mini 10x18 benchtop lathe that was recently purchased not too long ago.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

between center I don't thing is an issue, I tighten tight but not that tight beside it does the same with nothing between center but air. no brad I didn't check the capacitors I just replaced, guess I'll have to find a multi-meter, How are the ones HF sell


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

You have to identify why it won't turn and no one can do that over the internet. You said the motor runs fine alone, and the lathe spins freely when the belt is disconnected, that means it only has trouble when the belt is connected. Did you check to see if the belt is binding, pinched, or rubbing? Does it spin freely by hand when the belt is connected?


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I checked again screws are tight, I done thinks the belt is slipping, is there a test for that, assuming a belt is slipping what can i do about it. I know there is only so much you can tell a bout the problem without being there. I appreciate your advice. i going to get a multi meter and check the condensers thanks Mike


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Is there a woodturning or woodworking club in your area where you might be able to get hands on help?


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

> Is there a woodturning or woodworking club in your area where you might be able to get hands on help?
> 
> - Rick_M


He certainly needs it…....... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

OK now that I know what the lathe is here are the two options

1. Bearings
2. Belt to tight

1. Open up the belt cover and you can use a screwdriver and put it on the bearing housing and listen to the end of the screwdriver and you can hear if it is making any noises with the belt off and you turning the spindle with a drive spur on it to help you turn it.
Does it make noise? If yes it is the bearings. If not go to put the belt lightly and turn it on the slow pulley. If you do not hear nothing then go to #2

2. First one tighten the belt lightly or just enough to engage the pulley and turn it. Then tighten it like you used to without any wood and turn it on. See if there is any difference of sound or running.

If you do not get anything from both of them Return it and get another one or get your money back and got this one from PSI

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/KWL-1018VS.html

Or Grizzly which is variable speed for $20 more then the HF one you bought

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-x-18-Variable-Speed-Wood-Lathe/T25926


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

Hi jerry where you been you are right i do need a turning club but there are none in the area and I don't know anybody that knows turning or machinery. I did the checks Arlin, nothing. it is way out of warranty. But that made me think I can call the company maybe it has happened before. I appreciate everybodys help Thanks Mike


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

i just call HF the tech I talked to said my problem was most likely wheels out of alignment or bad bearing, he checked with somebody came back with a bearing number. Now all I need to do is find out how to remove the bearings. ifound a video on changing the belt but it don't deal with the bearings


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

got the speed problem solved. I was changing speeds and set it on 4 and nothing lifted the motor and it took off like a 747 same on 5. apparently it works only when the belt is barley touching the wheel


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

Hi Karda, I don't quite understand about "nothing lifted the motor" but I do understand "took off like a 747"! Good to know that you have the problem solved for now. It would still be a really good idea if you could find someone nearby who could have a look and give you some tips about adjusting and using the lathe.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I tried the lathe on speeds 4 and 5 and nothing changed still wouldn't turn, that is with just the motor weight for tension when I lifted the motor and loosened the belt that is when it worked, apparently those 2 speeds work only with a loose belt.


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