# Making a Violin



## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

*Making a Violin*

Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?

What to do first (besides building a bench)? Got to have a plan!

Well, actually, you need a mold to shape the ribs (sides) of the violin to. A good book to start learning is "The Art and Method of the Violin Maker" by Henry Strobel.

Here's a plan. Though I won't follow this one exactly, it's for reference. 









What we have here are two molds with corner and end blocks in place. Notice the shape of the 'points' to be carved? The one on the right is a Stradivari pattern circa 1705. It's 346.5 mm long from top to bottom. The other is a Vuillaume pattern of a Strad. It's 345.0 mm and is the pattern I used to make my first violin.










This one is of a Buck Bros. inside gouge I acquired. I use it to cut the corners on the blocks.










Here's a closeup of the business end.










Another view…










I have a question on sharpening this tool. I used a dremel tool to shape the inside lip as best I could. It's sharp, but not as sharp as I would like it.

If anyone has a trick, or tip on sharpening an inside gouge, sharp enough to shave my arm. Please let me know.


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## Bearpie (Feb 19, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Making a Violin*
> 
> Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?
> 
> ...


Ron, I do wood carving among other things and I would suggest a leather strop wheel you can find at Woodcraft. I would use a polishing rouge on the leather to aid in polishing/sharpening. I would also make the angle of the cutting edge a bit shallower meaning longer so it glides through wood instead of plowing like yours looks to be doing. Putting a mirror finish on the edge also helps the chisel to glide through wood. I also use a buffing wheel with the rouge after the leather strop and it helps with the polishing action.

Hope this helps.

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL


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## jordan (Nov 5, 2009)

RonPeters said:


> *Making a Violin*
> 
> Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?
> 
> ...


This should be exciting for sure!


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## Bill729 (Dec 18, 2009)

RonPeters said:


> *Making a Violin*
> 
> Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?
> 
> ...


I'm really looking forward to following your work. I read Henry Strobel's book too. You're way ahead of me-I'm still working on the workbench part. From what I see you look quite prepared for the challenge!

Bill


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *Making a Violin*
> 
> Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?
> 
> ...


I can't wait. How about a dowel with finer and finer grits of sand paper. I think Fww has a video on it.


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Making a Violin*
> 
> Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?
> 
> ...


Ron,
Here you are now doing the my most awaited violin making. This will surely give us another lesson.
Jordan,
I'm also following on your work and students…. how I wish I could catchup.. 
For the others, 
Maybe I have to budget my time for the 4 of you: Ron, Jordan, and Martyn.. and so with Larry… The real experts now doing all the tutorials.. Live..
Thanks for all and Keep it up. God bless.


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Making a Violin*
> 
> Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?
> 
> ...


Ron,
In sharpening my gouges, I used wood rods.. I use my gouge to shape the wood accordingly with the inner side of gouge. Then I make it a bit smaller (the gouge inner side is bigger than the shape of the wood) by sanding. Like a round file, I sharpen my gouges by sliding my gouges to the rod wrapped with sandpaper. Honing is the secret to really make it sharp. This is possible by using a 1600 grit sandpaper. Ensure that the sandpaper will take the sanding surface evenly with the wooden rod. I am not sure if it will work for you. But it worked with me. Sometimes, I use the round file and just wrapped it with sandpaper.


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## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Making a Violin*
> 
> Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?
> 
> ...


Wow, Ron:
I was very happy to see this blog this morning. I am anxious to see how you do this and I am looking forward to following your progress through your blog. Thank you so much for sharing your skill with us all.

I agree with Bert! It is just one great lesson after another here at LJ's! We certainly do have the best of the best, as well as the kindest and most sharing people in the industry (as well as the most talented!)

I have reserved my seat for this series and will be here watching with interest.

Sheila


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## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Making a Violin*
> 
> Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?
> 
> ...


Thanks guys n gals! I'll do my best to document the process.

As for the dowels…why didn't I think of that!? I also heard from a friend about woodcraft having a metal tool shaped like a double horn (not sure I'm explaining it correctly?) that might just work for the sharpening as well. It's diamond encrusted. I like the dowel idea though and to make the edge steeper. I'll do that.


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## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *Making a Violin*
> 
> Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?
> 
> ...


This is great! I am very interested in seeing this process and learning lots. Thanks


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## roy (Jan 5, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *Making a Violin*
> 
> Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?
> 
> ...


chain saw files work great
they come in different sizes

if you use a power tool it heats the metal (which is NOT good )
work them by hand slowly and you will be amazed

also the inside part of a high pressure sodium or similar bulb is incredible for the final touch


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## ottobre (May 21, 2016)

RonPeters said:


> *Making a Violin*
> 
> Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?
> 
> ...


hi, 
newbie here, can you please provide the web link for the violin molds (counterform), thank you very much.


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## ottobre (May 21, 2016)

RonPeters said:


> *Making a Violin*
> 
> Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?
> 
> ...


hi, 
newbie here, can some one please provide the website for the violin molds (counterform), where can i order it?
thank you very much.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *Making a Violin*
> 
> Now that the bench is finished, it's time to start using it for its intended purpose! I thought I'd document my progress along the way. I hope that's ok with everyone?
> 
> ...


Hi ottobe Welcome to Ljs
I did a little searching online,I don't know how good their products are.

https://www.internationalviolin.com/Shop/tools/violin-bridge-fingerboard-patterns-molds-templates


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## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

*End Blocks and The Middle Bout*

I've cut and installed the corner and end blocks on the mold with just a dab of glue, so when I remove the mold, they release easily. These are what the ribs (sides) attach to. The blocks are made of willow because of its lightness and the added benefit that it is a fairly straight grained wood which makes cutting with the inside gouge an easy task.

I then drew the points and top and bottom using the template. These are two different violins - reason for two templates.










Using the inside gouge (newly sharpened btw!) I then trimmed the inside bouts first. This is so the outside part of the block reinforces the middle bout after it's bent. When I trim the outside it will also trim the inside rib leaving a nice clean line for the outside to butt against.

Here I'm trimming the outside points and getting them ready for the next phase - bending and attaching the lower and upper bouts.










Points trimmed and ready for the bouts.



















Bending the upper and lower bouts.


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## roy (Jan 5, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *End Blocks and The Middle Bout*
> 
> I've cut and installed the corner and end blocks on the mold with just a dab of glue, so when I remove the mold, they release easily. These are what the ribs (sides) attach to. The blocks are made of willow because of its lightness and the added benefit that it is a fairly straight grained wood which makes cutting with the inside gouge an easy task.
> 
> ...


very cool


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *End Blocks and The Middle Bout*
> 
> I've cut and installed the corner and end blocks on the mold with just a dab of glue, so when I remove the mold, they release easily. These are what the ribs (sides) attach to. The blocks are made of willow because of its lightness and the added benefit that it is a fairly straight grained wood which makes cutting with the inside gouge an easy task.
> 
> ...


Ron,
What is the measurement of the widest side of the violin front and/or back (same width). My violin is a bit smaller. I think my Jackfruit wood is not enough. Can it be joined in the middle? Thanks very much.


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## Bearpie (Feb 19, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *End Blocks and The Middle Bout*
> 
> I've cut and installed the corner and end blocks on the mold with just a dab of glue, so when I remove the mold, they release easily. These are what the ribs (sides) attach to. The blocks are made of willow because of its lightness and the added benefit that it is a fairly straight grained wood which makes cutting with the inside gouge an easy task.
> 
> ...


Very interesting! I was learning to play a violin in the early 80s then in the later 80s my house was burglarized and it disappeared along with many other things! Which is why I'm interested in this project although I don't think I'll be building one as I am losing my hearing and can't hear the higher pitches. I still love violin music but it has to be quite loud for me to enjoy.

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL


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## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *End Blocks and The Middle Bout*
> 
> I've cut and installed the corner and end blocks on the mold with just a dab of glue, so when I remove the mold, they release easily. These are what the ribs (sides) attach to. The blocks are made of willow because of its lightness and the added benefit that it is a fairly straight grained wood which makes cutting with the inside gouge an easy task.
> 
> ...


Bert, 
The ribs at the tail portion is 32 mm whereas the neck is 30 mm. The thickness of the top and back plates would be 4.5 to 5 mm.

These would be considered the 'ideal', however, there are variations depending on the maker.


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## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *End Blocks and The Middle Bout*
> 
> I've cut and installed the corner and end blocks on the mold with just a dab of glue, so when I remove the mold, they release easily. These are what the ribs (sides) attach to. The blocks are made of willow because of its lightness and the added benefit that it is a fairly straight grained wood which makes cutting with the inside gouge an easy task.
> 
> ...


Very interesting.


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## techyman2 (Jul 28, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *End Blocks and The Middle Bout*
> 
> I've cut and installed the corner and end blocks on the mold with just a dab of glue, so when I remove the mold, they release easily. These are what the ribs (sides) attach to. The blocks are made of willow because of its lightness and the added benefit that it is a fairly straight grained wood which makes cutting with the inside gouge an easy task.
> 
> ...


Hi Ron,
Did you use the strobel books. I used them and still refer to them after nearly 20 instruments. Good book is the useful measurements book. The tone wood trade is truly international and I have actually bought tonewood from international violin co in US when the exchange rate favoured us. I also bought wood direct from German suppliers when the exchange rate was good but now there is no value in going over seas and I either source local wood or buy within the UK from importers. The US seems to have a lot of good suppliers. If you buy in bulk there are deals to negotiate but thats well out of my league.
When I prepare the blocks I split the wood to get the grain running vertical this makes trimming the blocks easier both when doing the rib side and especially the inside.
Regards from UK
Dave


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## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *End Blocks and The Middle Bout*
> 
> I've cut and installed the corner and end blocks on the mold with just a dab of glue, so when I remove the mold, they release easily. These are what the ribs (sides) attach to. The blocks are made of willow because of its lightness and the added benefit that it is a fairly straight grained wood which makes cutting with the inside gouge an easy task.
> 
> ...


Techyman2
Yes, I use Strobel for reference, just to keep me from getting ahead of myself. I have a few 'ideas' (shape of plates etc.) of my own that he doesn't cover that I'll incorporate as I go along.

I just got a nice 3ft x 18" 4/4 piece of willow that is really straight grained that I'll be using from now on.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

RonPeters said:


> *End Blocks and The Middle Bout*
> 
> I've cut and installed the corner and end blocks on the mold with just a dab of glue, so when I remove the mold, they release easily. These are what the ribs (sides) attach to. The blocks are made of willow because of its lightness and the added benefit that it is a fairly straight grained wood which makes cutting with the inside gouge an easy task.
> 
> ...


I'm reading backwards. So it's starting nice.


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## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

*Sides, or 'Ribs' ~ Bending & Gluing*

Ok, I'm back…

Had a bit of an issue with the bending iron. It seems it is rather delicate and putting it on high (10) is a no no. It's a Watlow 'Firerod' embedded in the aluminum tower. The current flow at 10 apparently burns out the element? It requires about an hour to get to bending temperature - and had I read the sheet that it came with…

It was repaired free of charge and henceforth I will be careful to mind the dial! Nothing past 5 from now on.

Progress! I have both rib sets in place, though only one is ready to build. It takes about 24 hrs to set the hide glue properly and tomorrow I should be able to work the 2nd violin.

First, a pic of the resharpened inside gouges from #1 in this series. Instead of a blunt edge, it's swept back which helped with sharpening the edge. It's not as 'fine' (smooth) an edge as my chisels, but it cuts the hair on my arm just fine.










Here is the final glue up of the bottom rib. It is one piece of 1.2mm maple. Typically, this would be two pieces butt joined at the bottom block (top block here) where the end pin is. This is a known weak spot with regards to cracks, even more so when you drill a hole in the middle of it! Stradivarius used one piece - he was the master!










Next I show the detail of the corner block which is 'unfinished'. I still have to trim the extra wings off the ribs and sand down the edges to 30mm at the heel block and 32mm at the end pin block. You can see the extra width of the ribs here.










Here is the finished corner. Note the inside rib fits nicely up to the outer rib? Then I square off the outer rib just to the line of the inside rib edge.










Here is a 'top down' detailed view of one of the corner joints.










After centering, I've placed the mold on the spruce top. The washers are 3mm and 4mm thick and will be used to define the outside edges of both the top and the back. I don't know if Stradivarius had washers like this, but I do.










Tracing the outside edge of the ribs with a sharp pencil inside the washer yields the following outline.










Here is the final shape of the back. Next is band sawing the rough shape - don't cut that line! Afterwords, I'll use finger planes to get it to the edge of the line.










Thanks for watching!


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## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Sides, or 'Ribs' ~ Bending & Gluing*
> 
> Ok, I'm back…
> 
> ...


I love watching how you work and I really do appreciate your taking the time to show us. It is fascinating to see. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us.

Sheila


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## Eric_S (Aug 26, 2009)

RonPeters said:


> *Sides, or 'Ribs' ~ Bending & Gluing*
> 
> Ok, I'm back…
> 
> ...


That is going to turn out beautiful.

I like your washer idea. It has never occurred to me to try that.


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## DrSawdust (Mar 7, 2007)

RonPeters said:


> *Sides, or 'Ribs' ~ Bending & Gluing*
> 
> Ok, I'm back…
> 
> ...


WOW !!! That is some great enginuity. I can't wait to see how it turns out. Thanks for sharing.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

RonPeters said:


> *Sides, or 'Ribs' ~ Bending & Gluing*
> 
> Ok, I'm back…
> 
> ...


A great looking story. Nice job.


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## Bearpie (Feb 19, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Sides, or 'Ribs' ~ Bending & Gluing*
> 
> Ok, I'm back…
> 
> ...


Wow, I just learned what those holes are for, Clamping and this knowledge will aid me in a project that I am having a bit of problem cause I don't have a big enough clamp. By utilizing the holes and a large dowel I will be able to use the clamps that I have. The washers are another fantastic tip. The things we learn here is incredible. Thanks.

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Sides, or 'Ribs' ~ Bending & Gluing*
> 
> Ok, I'm back…
> 
> ...


Ron,
Thanks for posting and I'm really watching everymove you do on this. I know how it looks easy but in reality it is so delicate dealing with 2-3mm thick sides. You are using longitudinal grain for sides. My violin uses the other way around. The endgrains are on the top and not on the joints. The advantage is that it is easy to bend (using a pliable wood species.. mahogany or amboyna). Here in the Philippines, I haven't seen anyone using a dry heating process… Most of us soak it with hotwater then bend and dry. Well, I learned the right way from you now. Keep us posted and thanks again.


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## DonnaMenke (Sep 20, 2006)

RonPeters said:


> *Sides, or 'Ribs' ~ Bending & Gluing*
> 
> Ok, I'm back…
> 
> ...


Ron- learn something new every day- especially when it comes to wood working. Your trick with the washers is amazing- simple yet effective. Now I can't imagine doing it any other way.
It reminds me about making the working wooden lock many years ago. http://www.woodworks-by-donna.com/MISCELLANEOUSWOODWORKING.html How to make the bird's eye maple shackle a continuous diameter all the way around was a problem my hubby solved in a similar way. He found a large washer with a 3/4" ID and I just had to carve away whatever didn't fit through the washer. Sweet solution.


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## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

*Cutting the 4mm edge to size*

The wood shaped to the line. If you check back a few posts there were two lines. My 'final' line is what you see remaining.










Here's a jig I made to cut the edges to size.










Does anyone see what 'the problem' is in this picture? Think hard…

It's a 1hp Craftsman router with a 3/8" straight bit. I call it a 'face off' bit, but I could be wrong? The jig part is the device holding the router steady. It's 1/8" aluminum plate sitting on 3 Delrin plastic blocks attached to a recycled formica sink cut out. I needed something to free up my hands to work the wood. The cut is a little 'proud' of 4mm. I'll get it closer later. It really is 4.5mm at the 'points' you see in the picture and about 4mm around the sides. It's optical aesthetics.










Here is the first pass. I didn't get too far before realizing, "Dang, that router bit must be dull!?"










Of course, what is 'wrong' in the picture above is the bit is UPSIDE DOWN! Oops! It doesn't cut too well, but it sure does burn wood!

Here is yours truly making sawdust. Lots of it. Which is why I did this outside. The jig stays on the planter pretty well, but I think I'll make some kind of box to set it on, as it did move a little.










The result is a really clean edge. Because I haven't done this for over a year, I forgot the 'trick' of going the other way with the wood (L to R). I'll have to see if I can glue this piece back on. With any luck, it won't even be noticed.










Next is to use my gouges and templates to shape the top and back.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *Cutting the 4mm edge to size*
> 
> The wood shaped to the line. If you check back a few posts there were two lines. My 'final' line is what you see remaining.
> 
> ...


I just discovered this series. Interesting ;-)) Thx for putting on LJ.


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## BertFlores58 (May 26, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Cutting the 4mm edge to size*
> 
> The wood shaped to the line. If you check back a few posts there were two lines. My 'final' line is what you see remaining.
> 
> ...


It is very interesting how the top and back are shaped to fit the ribs… This is a very nice tutorials.


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## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *Cutting the 4mm edge to size*
> 
> The wood shaped to the line. If you check back a few posts there were two lines. My 'final' line is what you see remaining.
> 
> ...


Very informative! THanks


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## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

*Carving the plates*

Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.

This is the maple back. I've carved guides using templates I made out of aluminum. After aligning the guides to the plate surface it's a simple matter of carving away the excess and blending. There are 6 templates. 1 through 5 are horizontal left to right with the last spanning the length.










A close up.










Another view of the vertical template.










Notice the points of light? More carving to go…










The template should sit on the surface.










The work space.










Here is one of the scrapers I use to remove the sawtooth finger plane marks. I have to use the sawtooth because maple will tear out and leave divots in the surface.










Staged 'assembly'.










Side shot.










Views of the scroll.



















Finished plate surface. Need to trim up the edge and the 'points' still.










Top and Back.










The other sides. I still have to make a jig to hold the plates to be able to carve the inside.










Gluing the linings to the ribs. The 2mm lining strengthens the 1mm thick ribs and provides a wider surface for the plates to glue to.










Thanks for viewing!


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


Interesting process. Must take a little patience ;-))


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## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


Love the pictures, helps the uninitiated to understand the talent and commitment necessary to make instruments.


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


oh my goodness!! I've just started "playing" the fiddle so seeing the birth of a violin is extra special. 
Oh the precision!!! those teeny tin rays of light coming through.. phew.. 
Very impressive

I appreciate the time it took to take the series of photos as well. Thank you
makes me want to go get out the violin and look at it with great respect


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


MsDebbieP, be sure and post a recording of the Oragne Blossom Special when you get it down pat )


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


oh you are too funny … too funny. I do a nice "Amazing Grace" though  
Orange Blossom Special… humph….


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


That's a good one too ;-)


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## Hayabusa (Jul 7, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


Delicious work and delicious IBEX small plane. I really beg you for a template to make only the scroll, I wish to include it into a future furniture project, not a violin. I would be really grateful to you if you can, so long


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


If I could do something like that I would be doing cartwheels of joy.  That is beautiful and I am making this a favorite. I love the scroll and the delicate curves of the body and the whole thing makes me smile inside. Thanks for posting this.


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


I missed the last couple posts in this series. Glad I found it again! A very interesting story. Thank you for taking the time to share it with us.


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## DonnaMenke (Sep 20, 2006)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


This is absolutely great. You do a good blog. Telling the story with your pictures lets us all enjoy your processes. Thank you so much for taking the time to share it all with us. Looks like it will be a super violin.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


That is looking wonderful. I can think that working on it is very enjoyable and rewarding. Thanks for sharing this with us with such a great series of photos.


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## Roz (Jan 13, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


This is so informative! This project is looking great!


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## Luthier (Oct 27, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


Nice work Ron, That scroll is awesome!


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## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


What a wonderful documentation of the process, Ron. The pictures are beautifully clear and show the amazing steps you take to make this beautiful instrument. The scroll is wonderful. It looks so delicate and graceful! I love seeing this being done and you really do a great job of telling the story. Thanks so much!

Sheila


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## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


Thanks everyone!

It's hell on the hands! The next day they get puffy. I guess that's what happens when you become an old fart!?

Perhaps I'll document the creation of the scroll next?

Julio, here is a place to begin http://liutaiomottola.com/myth/scroll.htm he says it is a myth that it comes from the golden mean. I was always told it 'was' the golden mean. Anyway, in nature the nautilus spiral comes the closest to the spiral shape and is probably where the masters got the 'idea' to emulate it? Aesthetics notwithstanding, the purpose of the scroll is to protect the pegs from damage.

You have all no doubt seen "scroll's" that were a carving of a bearded man's head etc. Tradition says a scroll, but as with everything in life, variety is the spice!


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


Great job. Now when are you going to do it with the good wood.

LOL, Just kidding. Some very nice carving. I was at PRS Guitars where they hand carve their handmade guitars. I tried my luck at the demo booth. I can appreciate the effort.


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## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


Karson,
What you don't 'see' is there is another violin (Vuillaume Strad copy) in the works just off camera. It's actually the 'better' wood! This is one I drew up from the Chimney's Workshop books using a Strad 1705 S length of 346.5mm. The 'points' are less graceful than the Vuillaume pattern, but I had to draw one up from scratch just to see how it was done - with nothing more than a compass and a square. Now that I've drawn that (several times btw) I can copy the master Strad.


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## DennisLeeZongker (Jul 25, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


Super Wow!!! Great blog. I was going to start making Archtop Guitars about 15 years ago, but took up carving & marquetry. And now I'm so busy I don't think I'll ever get my chance.

I have read a few books, the Guarneri Family & Antonio Stradivri his life & work.

Were did you get your inspiration?


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## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


I'm an acoustic strings musician. Playing the fiddle was a challenge I took up about 20 years ago. I had a buddy who was making a fiddle and that's where the trip began. The violin is quite a machine - an air pump - and when you consider they designed and built it without a computer (other than their brain…) just circles, squares and straight lines you have to be amazed!


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## Kerry (Jan 9, 2008)

RonPeters said:


> *Carving the plates*
> 
> Ok, I've been busy with life and could only get to the violin as weather permitted, that is until I insulated the garage and installed an IR heat lamp which takes the chill off the air.
> 
> ...


This is one of those 'bucket list' projects of mine. Will certainly be watching for updates on this project. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Kerry


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