# Over the blade dust collection



## deadherring (Nov 25, 2013)

Hi,

I've decided I'm finally sick of getting blasted in the face with sawdust when cutting on the table saw and am determined to figure out the best option for over the blade dust collection.

I've got the Grizzly G0690 table saw and have a 2HP Grizzly dust collector piped into the shop and connected to the table saw dust collector port. The problem is the dust coming off the blade that hits me in the face. Even with eye and mouth/nose protection it's a lot of dust and it gets all over the shop.

I came across this home made option in which he connects a 2.5" pvc pipe to the riving knife on his saw, but it limits cut height, prevents the blade from being fully lowered and the possibility of the wingnut ending up in the blade doesn't make me too thrilled.

Grizzly sells an over the blade system which might be a possibility. It's pretty pricey vs. a home made system, but any home system that uses a shop vac I'll have to buy a new one and a chip seperator to go with it so it will come out to roughly the same. I'm wondering with the Grizzly system how I would use a push block since it seems to cover the blade?

Any thoughts on over the blade dust collection is appreciated, preferably something not too complicated. If links to a build video of plans were available it would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Nathan


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## rolandk (Dec 11, 2016)

try watching Dan Pattisons channel on you tube. 



. I like his aver arm system but not his guard. there is a shop notes blade guard that sandwiches a standard shop vac attachment with plexiglass that looks a lot better. hope this helps and the link works. 1st time posting.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

AFAIK, all over-arm guards do, or can, provide dust collection… Excalibur, Biesemeyer, Grizzly, Sawstop, Penn State, etc… If you have some metalworking skills and access to a welder, making one would be another option. But it would have to be pretty well built, as otherwise it might not be safe enough and could present a real danger should something go wrong with it. I would look to one of the commercially available ones for design guidance.

Cheers,
Brad


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Also consider the Shark Gaurd, I had one for years on my Unisaw and it really worked well. It's also a little less expensive than most of the others.


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

15+ years with the Excalibur on two saws with zero regrets for me. Expensive, and guards are never an exciting or sexy purchase, but the value is there.

I don't like guards that attach to a splitter or riving knife because they don't work with most sleds and jigs, or with dado and most rabbeting operations.

I use sleds and jigs pretty much any time I'm not straight line ripping, so such a guard would seriously destroy the utility of my table saw. I use several crosscut and dado sleds, taper sleds, edge straightening sleds, box miter and spline sleds, a dovetail sled, a tenon jig, an L-fence, and sub fences that bury part of a dado set under the fence. In time, you probably will too…

The beauty of the Excalibur is that when needed, it can lock in a raised position to clear sled rails or a zero clearance miter fence, swing out of the way, or completely come off the saw in seconds, all without tools. The easier a guard can come and go, the more chance it will be on the saw as much as possible… When raised, it still collects a decent amount of dust, while a splitter mounted guard sits on the shelf doing nothing.


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## mike02130 (Jul 23, 2016)

Hmm, forty years useing a table saw and I never got blasted in the face. Is that common with the imports?


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Don't know, but my USA Unisaw threw an awful lot of dust off the blade. I'm not sure it hit me in the face, tho'.


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## jusfine (May 22, 2010)

I haven't had much excess sawdust from my Unisaw - a few years ago I bought, installed, and then returned the Excalibur system, just couldn't get used to the big thing over top my saw. Over 30 years without it might have made me feel that way.

I spent some additional time sealing most holes in the Unisaw cabinet and with a zero clearance throat plate and my dust collection system, the dust on top of the table is minimal.


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## jkinoh (Mar 16, 2013)

As Mr. Unix said, if you have access to a welder, you could make one. I made the arm first, since it was in the dust collection pipe support, then made the part over the saw blade later on. I initially made it out of wood, as a "prototype", to see if it would work. It has, and as a lot of my prototypes go, is still being used. I think I made this 6 or 7 years ago. Maybe more. Anyway, it works fine. Sucks up all the dust and keeps my digits away from sharp stuff. Sorry for the poor pictures, but shop is in middle of actual work.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

I started with one that I made myself but ended up getting a shark guard. The benefit is that I could order it with whatever size dust port I wanted but still maintain a narrow blade guard. I needed 4" for my dust collector so the guard I made my own had to be a little over that in width to accommodate the flange.

The Shark Guard has the 4" but it still narrows down to have the guard only be a couple inches wide.

I also like that it has a roller at the very front so it can easily raise and ride over the lumber as it goes through.


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## jkinoh (Mar 16, 2013)

I like the narrow design of the Shark Guard. Maybe my next "prototype" will be more like that!! It's hard to change when something works.

How easy is it to remove the Shark Guard? I loosen one knob and mine swings up and out of the way.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Nathan, +1 for the SharkGuard, but be aware that the lead time is something like 2-3 months IIRC.


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## BG43017 (Jan 15, 2011)

Jkinoh,

JK, was wondering if you could post the overall dimensions of your blade cover, some close up photos of the cover itself and perhaps a video of it in operation ripping and cross cutting? What is the purpose of the T-track? Also perhaps a photo of how it swings out the way when not in use.

-Bob


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

I just went Shark Guard. Bought the 4" PM66 version this Monday evening. I think a purchase well spent. I'm good at making my own stuff. But for the price of a Shark Guard, it's a no brainer.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

> I like the narrow design of the Shark Guard. Maybe my next "prototype" will be more like that!! It s hard to change when something works.
> 
> How easy is it to remove the Shark Guard? I loosen one knob and mine swings up and out of the way.
> 
> - jkinoh


The Shark I had on my Unisaw was fastened with the clamp from a Bies snap in splitter, and may be different from the stock setup. Still, mine was a 3 second operation to remove. (Maybe 5 seconds)


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## deadherring (Nov 25, 2013)

Hi all,

Thanks for all the replies. I don't have the ability to weld and am leaning towards a bought vs build solution.

For those that have an over the saw solution, I'm wondering a few things:

1. Did it solve the dust coming off the blade problem? 
2. I noticed many of the solutions cover the blade (naturally). Does this present a problem when it comes to using push sticks? I use them quite a lot-as a relative beginner they are safer for me-does the solution preclude the ability to use them? I use the style that covers the stock (the Jay Bates model for those that are familiar) as opposed to the smaller ones you use to push through.

Thanks,

Nathan


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

In my case it did solve the problem, but be aware you have to have good air flow through the guard to catch the dust. My overarm is an Excalibur which I upgraded to a few years ago, and it can be a pain when using push shoes etc., but it doesn't preclude you from using them. If it's a thinner workpiece you move the basket out of the way and fight the dust, but if the workpiece is maybe 1 1/2"+ (between the fence and the blade) it's quite doable.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Don't add top dust collection and solve the problem of WHY dust is hanging on the blade. Is the saw full of dust? Does it throw dust even when NOT cutting? Your TS should throw minimal dust from the rear of the blade. if you're getting a face full of dust there is a problem somewhere. Top side collection is a band aid on the real issue.

M


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## KelleyCrafts (May 17, 2016)

I ordered my Shark guard three weeks ago today. Lee said it's about a three week wait for mine when I ordered but haven't heard anything since then which is fine.

Getting mine for the big daddy PM72.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

I tried to look around the web of the shark guard in action in a video. Couldn't find anything. All were assembly. 
I ordered mine Monday. Kinda was hoping he would have a PM66 version or two laying around and just ship it out


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

You're gonna love it. Getting the flex hose onto that oval shaped connection is a little bit of effort, he used to include some helpful tips….pay attention to those.


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## Jon_H (Jun 21, 2016)

> Hmm, forty years useing a table saw and I never got blasted in the face. Is that common with the imports?
> 
> - mike02130





> Don t add top dust collection and solve the problem of WHY dust is hanging on the blade. Is the saw full of dust? Does it throw dust even when NOT cutting? Your TS should throw minimal dust from the rear of the blade. if you re getting a face full of dust there is a problem somewhere. Top side collection is a band aid on the real issue.
> 
> M
> 
> - MadMark


I don't have forty years experience, but I have enough to know that getting "blasted in the face" *should not happen*. Even with no guard at all. Even on imports. Something else is wrong apart from not having an over-the-blade guard. If that something else poses a safety threat, your over-the-blade guard may not protect you.

Not saying you shouldn't add an over-the-blade guard, but you REALLY ought to find out why you're getting blasted in the face without one.


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## KelleyCrafts (May 17, 2016)

> I tried to look around the web of the shark guard in action in a video. Couldn t find anything. All were assembly.
> I ordered mine Monday. Kinda was hoping he would have a PM66 version or two laying around and just ship it out
> 
> - Holbs


I emailed with Lee yesterday and paid him. Should be sent out by Friday or Monday at the latest.

I never worried about it much but this saw can rip a little over 5" and has 7.5hp powering it, well 5hp really after the phase converter. Enough for me to want a good splitter and guard. D.C. Is a bonus really.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

I've been running an Excalibur on my Unisaw for well over a decade. It is especially wonderful when cutting sheet stock.

My over-arm guard and dust collector is over a zero clearance plate and a 52" table. I draw off four inch hoses there and at the cabinet.

I didn't measure, but cutting pieces around six to eight inch or narrower stock makes using a push shoe difficult (I never use scary push sticks because I like to hold the wood down where near the back of the blade, where kick backs start). As such, consider a good set of hold downs WITH a splitter so you can just run another piece through to push the stock past the blade.

The over arm pick up doesn't work nearly as well when cutting on the edge, but it goes a long ways to reducing blow off from the blade, it you have a good collector. Some dust is still propelled along the table top, but no dust is tossed at your face.

P.S. I use push shoes religiously, except for narrow cuts with the guard in place, when I use the side and top wheel hold-downs.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

This Excalibur overhead guard came with the Delta 12-14, I just put it on not long ago, and more or less have adapted to it. I use a heavy miter gage more then a sled now. It does improve dust control, but more important for me is the work hold down ability, and guarding the blade. The unit is heavy with an adjustable counter weight for some pressure control.
I am considering the Sawstop overhead guard for my contractors saw, it looks pretty good and not too expensive.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

I meant to include a couple photos in my ramblings, a couple posts back.

Note I keep my push shoes over the cutting area, where I can reach one easily, if I don't already have it on the table.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Here is my newly installed sharkguard with 4" dust collection port. I could not use any boom arm from the right side of the cabinet saw due to having 2 cabinet saws face to face. This works 100% for my needs. And I made a mini video of the dust collection during a cut:
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/8930


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## Jonafare (Mar 1, 2021)

I have a (just delivered) Grissly G0921, out of the crate it was throwing sawdust like crazy!!! Following the advice of some of the prior posters, I looked deeper into what was causing the sawdust shower. Conclusion; my sawblade was out of line with the miter gauge slots and fence. Loosen bolts and realigned table & blade & fence according to the manual, best I could get was 7 thousandths. Guess what…sawdust completely vanished!!! Not a trace!!! Thanks to the guys posting on here to investigate the cause. My blade was cutting from the rear and was throwing saw dust. You guys saved me from buying an overhead vac hose.


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