# Newbie table saw safety question



## Brian1969 (Sep 30, 2014)

I've watched probably hundreds of videos and read hundreds of web pages on table saws, table saw safety, what can go wrong, etc., to the point that I felt I was ready for a table saw. So, I went out and got one (another post).

I made a couple of quick cuts with it, nothing major, just to make sure everything works correctly. However, I'm getting ready to do a project and when I get ready to rip an actual piece of wood, I'm literally too terrified to do it, to the point where I'm considering taking the damn thing back to the store and forgetting all about it. I have visions of wood flying back at me, or worse. I probably read a little too much on the bad stuff that can happen, lol.

Anyway, my question: has anyone here felt such a fear/phobia initially, and what did you do to overcome it? I've looked at the grr-ripper blocks, all kinds of featherboards, board buddies….you name it, anything that will hold the piece of wood in place (and out of my face) in case something happens (is there even anything that would/could do that, btw?) and I just don't know what to do.

My brother swears up and down to "just go ahead, you'll get over it!" but I'm the youngest of the family and I tend to overthink things, to a fault, but I just can't bring myself to just "go ahead!!!" when it's something as serious as this. I kinda like having ten fingers, after all.


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## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

If your saw has a riving knife or splitter, make sure you use it. Use a push stick and a featherboard to prevent it from moving off of the fence. Stand out of the direct line of fire from kickback, and just do it. You'll get used to it quickly. Or have someone else show you.


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## ElChe (Sep 28, 2014)

Every time I turn my table saw on. I use a splitter and no blade guard as the stock blade guard on my unisaw is worthless. I keep my hands away from the blade. I find the push sticks and magnetic featherboards to be indispensable. I do have two grrippers but I don't use them because the push sticks I made work fine and the grrippers are a hassle to adjust. Follow your brother's advice and let the saw rip!


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

My first table saw was a POS sub-$100 thing I bought at the borg back in the 70's.. my general operational setup was to sit it on the floor of the garage (it was a benchtop thing without any kind of stand or base) and run 8 foot PT 2×4's through it. It would wobble and move around, so I would usually have to chase it around with the 2×4 trying to keep it straight into the blade. Must of used it like that for 10 years or so before it finally just died. Never felt any fear of using it, never took any precaution other than try to keep my hands away from the blade, and never had an incident. Don't over think it. Just keep cautious, use common sense and follow the general safety tips that can be found in the various you-tube videos you have been watching.

Cheers,
Brad

Obvious note to others: The procedure described above is NOT recommended!!!!!


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

Definitely buy or make a push stick. I have been using the one sold by Kreg for several years.

Another thing that helps with wider boards such as sheet goods, is a pair of Bench Dog Push Blocks. Feather board? You betcha.

It's OK to be skeered. That saw can be intimidating. You might want to buy a 24×24 x 3/4 inch piece of pine plywood to practice on. Make a few rip cuts. That size of plywood is easy to handle. I suggest that you make several rips that are 3 1/2 inches wide. Who knows, you may need them later for A drawer side or two. .

Use the miter bar and make a few cross cuts. I suggest that you cut a piece of wood and clamp it to the miter bar to help support the piece you are cross cutting.

Start small, and practice. And don't lose your focus! Women and pets can be an easy distraction. Shut the saw down and shoo them out of the shop! Safety first.

Good luck.
Mike


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

Fear & intimidation IS a good thing….
It means that you WILL be careful and focused!!!
& that is the key to using it safely!!!

Yup, a few practice cuts will help alleviate the "first time jitters"!!!

There also may be a beginner's woodworking class, at your local tech or high school.
That would potentially be a great way to "test the waters".


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## Brian1969 (Sep 30, 2014)

The saw came with a push stick but I have my doubts on how useful it would be (seems like it's too big). I'm confident I made a good purchase, I checked it out front to back, top to bottom, etc., and it's great. I made a cross-cut using the miter gauge and a rip cut on a plywood panel, and it did fine with the included blade, but even while doing those two cuts, I was really…I don't know the word for it (uncomfortable? Feaked out? Paranoid? lol). Cutting something smaller, like a piece for a table leg…I just can't bring myself to do it.

I've been thinking of putting a couple featherboards on the fence to help keep things down, and one on the table (in front of the blade, so it's not pushing anything into it) to help in that area. I guess my major concern is that with having to push in three directions all at the same time, I'm gonna screw up and not push properly one way or another and BAM! I have a face full of wood, lol.

The thing is, I have a 12" sliding compound miter saw, a circular saw, router w/ a table, etc., and I use them all the time, so I shouldn't be gun-shy about a power tool at all, but this saw just freaks me out for some reason.


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## Brian1969 (Sep 30, 2014)

I know, btw, that there is no sure-fire way to prevent a kickback using some kind of accessory or attachment, but if you had to recommend something that would go the furthest in prevention (besides the riving knife and gaurd, which-believe me-I WILL be using), what would it be?


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## Picklehead (Feb 12, 2013)

The best advice I can give you at this point is "DON'T BE IN THE WAY OF THE KICKBACK". Stand off to the left of the blade (assuming the workpiece and the fence are to the right of the blade). I think you may reach a point adding safety devices (specifically featherboards ON the fence) that you won't have enough room to properly use your push stick, be able to see the process, and be able to adjust and follow through with your cut. Many times you can see that something's not right and adjust your technique to prevent a problem. That riving knife will keep the workpiece from moving away from the fence after it passes the blade, preventing it from contacting the rear of the blade, which is how kickback happens. Keep working with larger pieces where there's lots of room between the fence and the blade. Push your workpiece from somewhere LEFT of the center of the distance between the blade and the fence so that A) It keeps the workpiece from rotating away from the fence and B) it allows you to stand to the left of the workpiece, where you're out of the way. And here we are back where we started. Congratulations on having enough sense to be cautious, not it's time to carefully get enough experience to relax. Enjoy.


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## lepelerin (Jan 13, 2012)

The other way around, if it makes you feel better and safer is to bring back the saw and get a few hand saws. Way safer for you maybe. When you are ready to overcome your fear, maybe you could reconsider a table saw.
As long as you are careful there should not be any problem.


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## Big_Bob (Mar 30, 2008)

A little trepidation is a good thing. It is what keeps us safe. When you stop thinking of what bad things can happen you get complacent, fail to use safety devices and forget to follow the safety rules. Just follow the rules be a safe as you can, when cutting tiny pieces use jigs that make cutting things safer. If someone comes into your shop to talk stop working until they leave.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

About 10 years ago, I was walking through Home Depot with a few extra dollars in my pocket, and this dinky little Ryobi benchtop table saw caught my eye. It was only $89, and I thought "What the heck… that might come in handy." At the time I wasn't into woodworking at all. I was just an around-the-house-handyman type. But the first time I ripped a piece of lumber to the width *I* wanted it to be, I knew life would never be the same. It was like a whole new world had opened up.

My point in saying all this: I think once you make those first few cuts, you'll be hooked. You will not know how you lived this long without a table saw. You've watched the videos. You are going to be cautious. Now take a tip from Nike and your brother… just DO it.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

The first thing you need to do is THROW THOSE PUSH STICKS AWAY!!! Then make a "push shoe" that will give you a lot more control of the workpiece. I use a shop made hand held featherboard to both hold the workpiece against the fence and to hold the workpiece flat to the table. I respect my tablesaw but certainly do not fear it!


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Some pics of my push shoes and hand held featherboard. Remember to keep the featherboard BEHIND the near edge of your blade. I think you can see how this featherboard serves 2 functions: holds stock against the fence and keeps stock from riding up on the blade.


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## davidls (Mar 7, 2014)

1. Always cut stock that is flat and has a straight edge. I usually run my stock over the jointer first.
2. Always use a kerf splitter such as a riving knife. The last time I had a kick back is when I didn't use a splitter. Use the blade guard.
3. When ripping keep the stock against the fence. No need to push hard just keep it in contact.
4. Stand off to the side so you'll be out of the path of a kickback.
5. On longer boards there is the tendency to push down on the end of the board while feeding it thus raising the end of the board as it meets the blade. Keep it flat against the table with your left hand or use a roller for support.
6. Use an out feed table or roller.
7. Use a push shoe. I really like these - http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=30067&cat=1,42207,49759&ap=1 I use one in my left hand to keep the stock against the fence and another in my right hand to push the stock through.
8. Don't cut a piece on the table that is too big for your comfort level. I have a big Sawstop with 52" capacity but I cut sheet goods down to smaller pieces before it hits the table saw.

Finally, just practice a few minutes pushing a board through with the fence set just slightly wider than the board. Soon you'll be using your saw with confidence.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Do you have a Woodcraft store that has classes? If thou do see if they have a basic table saw class. You will have some show you how to use it and give you pointers. If not, see if the local college or high school has a wood shop class.


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## Brian1969 (Sep 30, 2014)

Thanks, everyone. I think I'm going to either order a set of grr-rippers or stop where I bought the saw and get some featherboards (or do both, lol). I've no problem with everything else, I just want something to give me peace of mind, as much possible, that I have absolute control over the board I'm cutting. The push stick that came with the saw, I don't see me ever using, and I have a couple of push blocks, but the rubber pads don't grip the wood very good (you get what you pay for, and I didn't pay but a few bucks for each) and there's no way I'd trust them to help me guide a piece of wood on a table saw (I used them once on the router table, didn't like them, and never touched them again).


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## Brian1969 (Sep 30, 2014)

I live in BFE, there's nothing like that within 75 miles of me. Anything I need, I pretty much have to mail order it. We have a Menards about 20 miles away, but other than that, there's no place that sells tools (of quality, I mean) or wood.

I'm confident I know how to use one, it's just getting past that initial phobia of getting a kickback. Once I can get past that, I know I'll be more than ok. I respect my tools, always have, never had an incident, as I always think things out ahead of time. Like I said earlier, I am the youngest in the family, so I've had the luxury of seeing my older brothers-and dad-do dumb sh*t on a regular basis and made a mental note for the future to "no do that", lol. I've been reading up and watching videos on this for about a year, and when I felt the time was right, I went and bought one. I probably should have found someone who had one, had them let me use theirs, etc., and THEN went and bought it, but I don't know anybody around here that has one.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Look at the push sticks/boards William Ng uses in his "5 cut to a perfect sled" video. Pretty much just a handhole cut into a scrap piece of plywood. For thin rips you just cut into it. Provides excellent control also.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Being paranoid is good but if you are really scared of the saw take it back and buy a band saw. Fear leads to timidity which is more dangerous than the saw. Band saws are less intimidating and after awhile you will build up the confidence for a table saw.


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## HMWWAWCC (Jun 26, 2011)

Using featherboards is always smart and reassuring, especially when you're first starting out. It might take more time but you'll get comfortable using the tool and familiar with how it works and feels.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Use the saw to make your own featherboards.. you will gain experience and confidence on a small project and make something useful at the same time. Plenty of instructions can be found with a quick google. Make a couple.. get creative. Small projects will slowly lead to larger ones.

Cheers,
Brad


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

You've at least got a decent full size cast iron saw in your favor….it's heavier and more stable than a portable, and it has about 12" of landing area in front of the blade that should help get everything situated before the cut. It can't hurt to read a good table saw book…Kelly Mahler and Jim Tolpin both have great books. Can't hurt to take a class, and visit a seasoned veteran who sets a good example.

Some basics (apologies for any repeats…didn't read all the replies):
- A high quality sharp blade that's suitable for the task and is clean offers the best chance of success
- A well aligned saw with perfect fence to blade alignment is ideal…align the riving knife with the blade too
- be sure the throat insert is flat, flush, and won't flex
- Be sure the pulleys are aligned to avoid vibration
- Wax the table surface 
- Wood that's flat and straight is easier to control and cut than wood that's warped and rocking on the saw
- Small pieces can be tough to cut
- Large pieces can be tough to cut
- Always use the riving knife when feasible
- Use the guard when feasible
- Always use a push stick, push shoe, or Gripper type device
- Use featherboards for rip cuts….only use them before the blade.
- Use an outfeed table to catch your workpiece
- Clear cutoffs from the table before proceeding to the next piece
- Use a switch that can be turned off with your leg if things get squirrely
- Stand to the left of the blade path
- Start with easy pieces…crosscuts are generally less intimidating than rips, so get comfortable with those first (something like repeat 1/2" xcuts of a 1×3 piece of scrap ~15-20" long would be pretty easy)
- Raise the blade just enough to expose the gullets between the teeth


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

> I ve watched probably hundreds of videos and read hundreds of web pages on table saws, table saw safety, what can go wrong, etc., to the point that I felt I was ready for a table saw. So, I went out and got one (another post).
> 
> I made a couple of quick cuts with it, nothing major, just to make sure everything works correctly. However, I m getting ready to do a project and when I get ready to rip an actual piece of wood, I m literally too terrified to do it, to the point where I m considering taking the damn thing back to the store and forgetting all about it. I have visions of wood flying back at me, or worse. I probably read a little too much on the bad stuff that can happen, lol.
> 
> ...


Ok first let me tell you I've been doing this a long long long time. If you ever loose that twinge when you turn that saw on, then you are a fool. You must respect that tool it is dangerous. However, if you cannot overcome freezing fear, then you have a problem as well. This was the instruction from my shop teacher when i was 16 years old and it stuck with me through my whole life. Follow good safe practices, and you operations manuals and you will be ok.

Do bad things happen yes, but thats not the norm. Learn proper technique, and where to stand depending on operation and you will be ok.

Concentrate on the operation at hand and never take your eye off the blade while its spinning! Wear proper PPE and use push sticks (i reccomend the grrippr's) Use a saw with a riving knife if you can. If it does not have one, use the microjig as it will act as one and fits in the throat plate.

Never ever work tired! Only bad incident I ever had was on a saw that did not have a splitter to protect against kickback, and I was tired and slipped up and wanted to get that final run it, and was standing directly behind the blade. Needless to say it hurt, but I never ever made the same mistake again, and that was back in 89.

So respect the tool but don't be terrified. It's like your car, use it, but respect it has the ability to harm you. Besides, the great things it helps you make is what makes it all worthwile.

Cheers and have fun!


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I know exactly what you mean by being afraid at first.
I used a radial saw for many years with good success. Decided on and bought a Grizz table saw that had been very lightly used, set up VERY well, and nicely cared for.
Scared the crap outa my at first.
I use all the safety stuff for sure. Board Buddies where applicable, push SHOE, Grip Tite Guides, etc.
My saw does not have a riving knife, but the splitter and guard stay on the saw unless I'm making a non-through cut.
I also have a sled and an Incra 1000SE miter gauge.
Never underestimate the value of quality sharp blades. Dull or warped blades can get ya into trouble.
Table saws are like combat. You should never be complacent with either one.
Bill


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## oltexasboy1 (Sep 25, 2013)

I have read most of the comments here and unfortunately I think I may be the only one that has actually cut off part of my finger on a saw. I did that because I was not paying enough attention to what I was doing. The one thing that I might point out besides the already good advise, would be to make sure that your blade and fence are very square to each other . That is what generally causes kickback, because the work piece will bind against the fence and the piece is pushed against the blade so tightly that it results in kickback. PAY ATTENTION. Quit if you are distracted, DON'T drink and saw, and did I say, PAY ATTENTION to what you're doing. 
One final thing, make ,buy ,borrow or steal an outfeed table. fighting with a piece that is falling off you saw while your working will get you hurt. This is like most things, you must be in control of the saw not the other way around. Good luck and carefully forge ahead.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

I ran into this problem just a few years ago when I went into power woodworking.
Youtube videos on doing brain surgery on yourself, are just a little better then some of the woodworking ones. And another problem with about anything on the net. If you have little or no experience, how do you judge if the video is any good?

I don't know, but I think this video is pretty good on kick-back,


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## Garbanzolasvegas (Jan 15, 2015)

That fear you feel will keep all ten of your fingers attached to your hands…. I to am terrified every time I use my Ridgid but like I said fear is not necessarily a bad thing.

By the way I bought this comically huge PUSH stick laughing at it wen I opened the box… But I use it every day


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## Brian1969 (Sep 30, 2014)

I stopped and bought some feather boards today and got them attached. And, with that little bit of reassurance, I made my first cut. Nothing to it, lol. I just needed something, a crutch if you will, to get me over that initial hump.

Having said that, I don't want people to get the wrong idea, that I'm terrified of this saw….I'm not. I'm horrified that I might get a board to the face, lol. I know the splitter/riving knife, the pawls, etc., are supposed to stop that, or at least help prevent it, but my main concern was that, being a newbie without experience, then I lack the touch or feel on how, exactly, I should run a board through. I'll get some experience using the crutches, so to speak, and I should be ok.

I'm very vigilant about maintaining my tools, I'm always focused on what I'm doing, etc., so if I have an accident, it will be one of those freak ones where I did everything right but something still went wrong (knock on wood). I've used circular saws, miter saws, chainsaws, you name it, everything but a table saw, and I've always had a healthy respect for them, knowing full well what they can do it I screw up. But I always had someone there to show me how to use them (my dad). He's no longer with us, and my brother (the one I mentioned) has zero experience with any of this stuff (that's why I wasn't about to "just go ahead!!!" like he suggested). I think if I just keep it simple for a while until I learn it more and get more experience, I'll be ok.

Thanks!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

Good for you.
You are no longer a TS virgin….
You'll never forget your first!!! ;^)


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I've yet to see anything go up towards my face. If it's gonna come out it usually goes straight back at your belly. Biggest mistakes I've made is cutting off small pieces from a larger one and not controlling the small piece. As soon as it is cut all the way thru it's gonna go backwards. Any time you need to cut off something so small that you can't safely push it thru with a stick think about putting the small bit on the outside. You may have to break larger pieces down with a circular saw first. Keep using the saw and you'll get more comfortable, just don't get complacent.


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## sawdustjunkie (Sep 12, 2013)

Last year I had a kickback that hit me in the chest so hard, it brought me to my knees.
Just after that, I got a new saw with a splitter and made a few cross cut sleds.
I have made hundreds of cuts and have never had a problem since.
It's good to be somewhat scared! Like others have said here, it keeps you focused on what you're working on. 
Don't let the fear keep you from enjoying your hobby.
I also use a gripper and am going to buy another shortly.


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

I may have missed it in all the posts but one thing that seems to be missed is never let go of your stock! dont leave material in the saw and release it to shut off the saw!. Avoid shutting the saw off in a cut and if you must don't let go until the saw is completely stopped. Unless it is caused by faulty material , split or stressed kick back happens only a couple ways. the piece between the blade and the fence gets pinched (dull blade forced through the cut, the blade deflected against the piece between the fence and the blade by the opposing piece of material or the piece gets picked up by the back side of the blade because it has not been firmly held in place past the blade. Kick back cannot happen unless the saw gets a better purchase on the material than you do controlling it. Many push sticks have the potential for greater harm than good. they leave the piece loose in all directions but push and the material has a chance to ride up on the blade. When this instance is corrected by pressing the part down onto the blade the blade is introduced to more material than the previous portion and it can grab kicking the piece back directly. Some have shown devises that control the piece in all planes. MUCH safer than a typical "push stick". with most of the provided push sticks look where you are directing your effort. DIRECTLY into the zone of the blade! if there was a kick back it is like kicking the stilts out from under someone, down onto the blade goes your hand. Riving knives and splitters are great. over the blade guards are good practice also. you cant let go of a piece faster than it can suck you in so plan your cuts for safety. execute them with purpose and don't loose control of the stock by letting go. lots of good info above. Don't fear the machine, fear is a distraction. respect what it is capable of and learn to control it. Glad you are able to finally enjoy your saw!


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

Brian, Been there, done that wore out the T shirt. To my way of thinking your on the right track, slow and easy.
Everything takes time and a healthy respect for you tools will serve you well down the road. I found that using a good reliable Dixon-Ticonderoga #2 with a good eraser and a push board pretty handy. The eraser keeps things from slipping around and binding up.


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## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

In truth, I have only had a few issues with wood flying back at me… usually on tablesaws with overhead dust collector guards. and usually with all the riving knifes and what have you.

The secret to table saw safety is…. make sure you know where the danged blade is, if you can't see it, and you can't see your stock, then you are in trouble. It's when you lose that little bit of natural apprehension that you lose a finger. Pay attention to where that blade is and you will be good. Make sure you stock is moving properly across the fence and you will be good.

I have cut literally thousands upon thousands of board feet of lumber. When wood is properly dried, it is very rare for the tension of the wood to pinch the blade. Unless we are talking jatoba (brazilian cherry) then you might have alot of that happen…. just something weird about that species.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

1. Don't touch the blade while it's moving
2. Don't put anything in the path of the blade you want in one piece
3. Don't stand behind a board you are ripping. It's rare, but I have seen an oak board fly across a room.


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## Kitestir (Mar 9, 2014)

I have been using my TS for just over a year and I still am nervous using it. But I think that is a good thing because I never get TOO comfortable with it so I am always careful. I don't know if I want too ever loose that respect. Just be careful and follow the mentioned tips and you should be fine!


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