# Board Buddies - Attaching to fence track



## dougswoodworks (Nov 6, 2014)

Hey,

After hearing rave reviews from friends about board buddies, I bought a set (yellow). Went into the shop, opened the box and was a bit disappointed. I had assumed (I know not enough research, blah, blah, blah…) and found that it does not mount to a track on a fence without some help in jig parts I do not have. I am not hot on using it mounted to a sacrificial fence when one is not needed normally.

So, fellow sawdust manufacturers: Have any of you gotten jig parts and attached to the table saw fence? I have a Rigid R4512 that works great for me and ideally, I would just like to slide them in the track on the top of the fence, lock down and go to work.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Doug


----------



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Let me know if you figure out how to use a push shoe (or even a push stick) to go past the board buddies. 
M


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I have used the board buddies and they are great for some things. I mounted mine to a board which I could easily and quickly attach to the fence.


----------



## dougswoodworks (Nov 6, 2014)

well, fans be fans, haters be haters. they are not made for thin stock, so you would not need to be pushing so close to the fence. if you want something to help with thin stock, check out the rockler then rip jig. genius.

right tool for the right job.



> Let me know if you figure out how to use a push shoe (or even a push stick) to go past the board buddies.
> M
> 
> - Madmark2


----------



## dougswoodworks (Nov 6, 2014)

Red,

So, basically the same thing as a sacrificial fence mounted on the opposite side? Can you share a pic? Would greatly appreciate that.

Thank you,

Doug



> I have used the board buddies and they are great for some things. I mounted mine to a board which I could easily and quickly attach to the fence.
> 
> - Redoak49


----------



## DBDesigns (May 29, 2018)

I bought a cheap aluminum track that takes 1/4-20 bolts nicely. You can mount it on top of your fence with countersunk machine screws. You could also machine a piece of stable wood and use it instead of the aluminum track.

I don't use them for the table saw. they are for my router table and shaper. I have a set of Grrippers from Rockler that I use with my table saw. They aren't cheap but they increase finger safety and what is that worth?


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

I've used them both ways, with and without a board to mount them on.

I have a Unifence, so they would not mount without the board. Then, thanks to a fellow LJ, I found a fence that loves accessories.

As to the Unifence, I didn't like the idea of pushing the fence out 3/4", so I shaped a board to fit the back side of the fence and installed them in it. Worked great.


----------



## Mike_D_S (May 3, 2012)

I like the board buddies for ripping, especially for pieces that are 3 or 4 inches wide. While I'd like to say that I always use a push stick, I am guilty of just using my hand to guide pieces like that. When the board buddies are mounted them basically keep me from using my hand and make me use a push stick.

@Madmark2, you're right, they do get in the way of a normal push stick, but I made up a longer low profile one that I can push all the way through and it works fine. Just basically cut a 16" piece of ply into an L shape with the long part about 1" wide and then cut a notch on the end to catch the board end.

To mount them, I drilled and tapped a couple of 1/4-20 holes in the top of the fence body and mounted a piece of ply which the board buddies are mounted to. I can remove the whole thing in about a minute by undoing the bolts or just take the buddies off and leave the mounts behind.










Mike


----------



## MrWolfe (Jan 23, 2018)

I am interested in an anti-kickback device like this one or maybe this one from Woodworker's Supply too…

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082DMW4P6/?coliid=I35GNLA7A7POKP&colid=RURRF9Z0PSNW&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it!https://woodworker.com/images/ss/834-842.jpg!










I also have a Ridgid 4512 and I'm wondering if there is anyone who has successfully attached either of these to their ridgid 4512 stock fence. A pic or list of hardware needed would be greatly appreciated.
Heading out to the shop to check some measurements but I think my fence is too wide for the Woodworker's Supply one… and the description doesn't mention how tall the fence should or shouldn't be.
Thanks
Jon


----------



## wildwoodbybrianjohns (Aug 22, 2019)

These are the kind of thing that gets used 2 or 3 times and ends up in a drawer somewhere, never to be heard of again.

That being said, they are ok for ripping sheet, and sometimes on a router table. The green ones are better IMO, as they spin both directions, and yellow only spin one direction.

I just use DIY featherboards, easy to make and replace, cost nearly nothing. If I were to spend money on something, it would be the grip-tite system.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

I actually bought another fence for my Unisaw to make it easier to install and remove them.

When cutting wider boards, they are great to help pull the board or plywood to the fence.

As to push sticks (shoes), I always just ran a board just a bit narrower than the one being cut behind the board being cut, when it was past the point I could hold it.


----------



## MrWolfe (Jan 23, 2018)

Thanks Brian and Kelly,
I am in a rare "jig/personal protective equipment" acquisition mode. I've been buying jig parts and bits online and a few jigs on Ebay. I bit the bullet for the Board Buddies jig/yellow roller jig from Peachtree for less than $50 shipping included. A lot of reviews and I finally saw the one that said "fits on the newer Ridgid table saws without extra stand offs or aluminum tracks. Even if I do need them, a stand off or a 1/4 inch track to fix to the top of my fence is no problem. 
Even if it spends most of the time in a drawer as long as it is there when I need it then it will be worth it.
Thanks Kelly, that seems like a great solution for one of the drawbacks other users have written about. I'll use that tip for sure.

Brian, I actually built an adjustable featherboard for the top of my fence that I use now. I managed to chop it up a bit so I found a pair of Bosch OEM featherboards on Ebay for less than $10 tonight. I'll make another one so I'll have a pair for ripping thin stock. I'm in the mode of buying and making jigs so that I ALWAYS have at least three safe guards for any cut I make. That is part of the mental checklist I run through on my table saw every time I use it. I need to to that with all my power tools and that is what I'm working towards.
Thanks
Jon


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

Sorry *Doug*, if that *board buddy* is that thing with yellow tapered wheels all I will offer is sympathy and any suggestion may cause offence… I'm slowly amassing a series on the topic of *Stupid Ideas/Buys of the past (so far)*... and if it's similar to my purchase, it makes *that list*, for a planned future posting.

In all fairness, I haven't really put it through its paces, however, after unboxing, I was so intimidated and disillusioned by it that it went straight into the too hard basket… where it still sits. I had a similar reaction as you in contemplating mounting options to my fence.

I currently use the JessEm Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides... YES, they are expensive (which is probably the last thing people want to hear), however, I do swear by them.

For *small stock* (with this jig or other types of setups), I use a dedicated push stick that passes under the arms and extends past the far end of the saw blade,








and for large stock/sheet-goods I use push blocks.
Because it is spring loaded, I do clamp my fence to the tabletop when I use them to ensure 100% accuracy… this is just my paranoia and it is a pain when I forget to remove the clamp before trying to move the fence (swear words).
When not in use, it just simply parks on the end of my fence (with the clamp) to ensure I never get too complacent or lazy to use it when needed,


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> I currently use the JessEm Clear-Cut TS™ Stock Guides... YES, they are expensive (which is probably the last thing people want to hear), however, I do swear by them.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


+1 Have them and* love* them. Worth the investment. They are especially great when you are in a one man shop for cutting sheet goods because they hold the stock against the fence. It's like having another pair of hands to help guide the stock. I bought the Board Buddies and ended up giving them away to a friend. They were an immediate fail as soon as I installed them.

LBD - I like the T track idea but see no way to do that and still be able to use the ruler on the fence.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

> +1 Have them and* love* them. Worth the investment…
> - Andybb


As mentioned, I'm sold on them… it's the other LJ members than need *the donation(s)* to invest in a great (and safe) product.


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> I am interested in an anti-kickback device like this one or maybe this one from Woodworker s Supply too…
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082DMW4P6/?coliid=I35GNLA7A7POKP&colid=RURRF9Z0PSNW&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it!https://woodworker.com/images/ss/834-842.jpg!
> 
> ...


Al I didn't see this post. What you are showing there is much like the Vega fence add-on I have that in addition to what they called a stock pusher was a replacement for using something like the board buddies. It attaches directly to the top aspect of the Vega fence. The wheel is slightly canted, so it keeps the stock pulled tight to the fence, and the little spring steel in front is an anti-kickback pawl. Just another reason I love my Vega fences.




























I staged these pics for a guy some years ago, and didn't want the blade competing, so it's set pretty low.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Let's not forget that a riving knife or at the very least a splitter is the best way to avoid a kickback.


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> Let's not forget that a riving knife or at the very least a splitter is the best way to avoid a kickback.
> 
> - Andybb


Absolutely, everything else is just additional help. It all starts when you keep the boards from jumping onto the back of the blade, and nothing does that better than a splitter, or RK


----------



## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

I have these on my unisaw fence. I rarely use them except when ripping wide boards. The other day I was setting up to rip some plywood and noticed that the mounting bracket was cracking. Closer investigation revealed that the bracket was not milled from a blank but rather was poured into a mold. I could see the crystal structure where it cracked. That is a sign of poured material rather than milled material.


----------



## derekcohen (Jul 15, 2007)

> Sorry *Doug*, if that *board buddy* is that thing with yellow tapered wheels all I will offer is sympathy and any suggestion may cause offence… I m slowly amassing a series on the topic of *Stupid Ideas/Buys of the past (so far)*... and if it s similar to my purchase, it makes *that list*, for a planned future posting.
> 
> In all fairness, I haven t really put it through its paces, however, after unboxing, I was so intimidated and disillusioned by it that it went straight into the too hard basket… where it still sits. I had a similar reaction as you in contemplating mounting options to my fence.
> 
> ...


Why are you not using a blade guard?

Even more of a potential problem, you have the blade low, which exposes the rear of your blade as the splitter is too far back. That is an invitation for a board to contact this area of the blade, which will become instant kick back! A high blade is safer than a low blade when you do not have a proper riving knife.

I have just purchased the Jessem guides but yet to install them. Your push stick looks good.

Regards from Perth

Derek


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

> Why are you not using a blade guard?


Because they're more than just a *PITA*... they're *hemorrhoids on steroid*... My blade guard is supported by a poorly designed splitter that is an absolute pain in everyones arse to remove and put back.



> ... you have the blade low, which exposes..


Well observed *DC*, however for a photo shoot without stock, I tend not to measure the stock's thickness and use gauges to set the height… just gaging…

You are technically correct… never really considered it to that level before, however, that initial small distance covered (by narrowew stock) will be safeguarded by a minimum of 1 featherboard (which I *always use*... *not negotiable*, eg. white mag-switch mounted in picture… even for photo shoots it gets put in place) after which the splitter will take control. Not using a blade guard, I'm continually aware of the exposed blade and psychologically I believe that a smaller exposed blade can potentially do less damage than a fully raised blade.. thereafter all other arguments are purely academic in my mental mentality.



> ... I have just purchased the Jessem guides but yet to install them. Your push stick looks good.
> - Derek Cohen


One thing few would/could/should-not dispute… you'll love them… with the right setup, they should never leave your fence so you should never have an excuse for not using them appropriately…
Usually I don't use the JessEm on narrow stock, however, if I do, that push stick is invaluable to permit leaving the guides in place yet still maintain some ° of safety. I am lucky as I have a laser and can "print cut" a new one on demand… so if it needs slight modification for dedicated (one of use) it's not an issue.
I only use the push stick for the last part of a rip, until then it's placed out of the way but within reach (future project post being formulated).


----------



## John_ (Sep 23, 2013)

I have the Jessem guides also - treated myself and bought them as my Christmas present. No regrets, extremely pleased, not only as a safety product, but it also helps with the cut since it forces the board up against the fence.

I have their 'Clear Cut Precision Stock Guides' for my router table and same thing - they work great and no regrets

And no, I don't use a blade guard either


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

> And no, I don t use a blade guard either
> - John_


Naughty *Johnie*...


----------



## RDan (Jan 14, 2012)

I have the Jessem guides and use them all the time for ripping. As for mounting them take a look at Dave Stanton Install using Mag switches 



 I will be doing this shortly, because I sometimes would like to remove them completely if I want to use another Jig on the fence. Wish I had seen it before I drilled into my fence. He also made a Jig to hold the router table model on his Rip Fence for the table saw. I only take mine off when ripping real narrow stock. Dan


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

well first off i never have a guard on my saw and my saw had board buddies when i got it but they soon got removed,for me there just in the way,a big PITA.i do have a splitter and various push sticks so as to keep all ten digits.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

I just cut a bunch of maple for the farm kid next door. Having the not often used Buddy's to pull the cuts to the fence was nice (I spaced them whatchamacallitdohickeys they call feather boards).

I'd never leave the hold downs on my fence 24-7, but when I do need them, they're nice to have. More so now that they are paid for.

My guard use is almost as intermittent as pottz. I will pull the over-arm over large boards and flat stock because it eats a lot of what would be tossed into the air without it.

Again, like the pottz, my splitter is never far from its home and I always use pushes.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Learn something new every day (I've been cutting off the wrong end - dammit….........



> - LittleBlackDuck


----------



## joe121 (Feb 17, 2014)

I have a unisaw with a jet-lock fence which works great for the way i use the board bud. It might also work for your fence but instead of horizontal holding pins maybe vertical, but i don't know the inerds of your fence. Here are pics of mine. Works great for large or long wood.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

> well first off i never have a guard on my saw
> - pottz
> 
> My guard use is almost as intermittent as pottz…
> ...


I think I should be paddled… *please*... just wanted to kink my reply with the emoji… *my blade guard* has been re-cycled into beer can pull rings, many countless growth rings ago.


----------

