# Workbench Build - Splayed leg French Bench



## mochoa

*Top&Legs Jointed, Starting to layout the Wooden Screws.*

A while black I posed a forum topic asking for folks advise on how to use this piece of wood for a workbench.










A cabinet maker I bought my band saw from gave it to me for free. It was made from two slabs from a green oak tree so it cupped pretty bad. It had been used as a table for a restaurant.

After assimilating everyone's advice I decided I would cut out the piths, re-glue the top and use it to make a French workbench like Roy Underhill does in one of his shows. I love the splayed legs and I like the idea of a tool tray to keep things from rolling off of the bench. I have actually found a few antique examples of this bench online, here are some pictures I'll be using for inspiration. 

















Here is what my Sketch Up drawings look like so far.









My top wont be large, about 68" or so once its done but that is pretty close to the dimensions of the examples above. It will be about 2.5" thick and it will be about 16" wide (core), 24" wide with the tool tray. It will also work well for the space I have. 
I've already cut up the top, removed the pith, jointed by hand one face and one edge of each of the 4 pieces so they are now ready to be fed through the thickness planer for the other sides. 
The nice thing about pithy wood is that the wood on either side is quarter sawn. So, I will have a lot of nice quarter sawn flecks in my top!

















I also had a bunch of red oak I wanted to burn through for the legs and stretchers so this is a great opportunity to do that. They were all 4/4 so it has taken a lot of jointing and glue up to prepare them which was not fun since I don't have a jointer. 









Unless you count my new #6 which has been indispensible on this project. Its been a lot of fun to joint these big pieces of wood by hand. I'm having fun and getting a little workout. 









WOODEN SCREWS!: I'm going to be carving my own wooden screws for a leg vise and wagon vise. I'm following the instructions from Carters blog. The only exception is that I'm planning on carving the screw by hand rather than using a router. It seems very doable from everything I've read and I won't have the hassle of making a jig and buying a router bit. Also, I don't have a lathe, I had to buy my dowels, so I cant afford the trial and error of setting up the jig. I may make the router jig down the road if I buy a lathe and start making more screws.

I bought my dowels from these guys. I'm pretty satisfied with them. Luckily the 1 1/2" dowel I'm using for my tap fits just right in the whole made by my spade bit. 
The dowel for the screw is 2" in diameter.










__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










I satarted on some of the layout of he tap last night.

















So that's all I have for now. Next I'll be working on feeding my leg and top pieces through the planer when the kids are awake and working on the screw when they are asleep.

Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay tuned for the rest of the build.

Mauricio


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *Top&Legs Jointed, Starting to layout the Wooden Screws.*
> 
> A while black I posed a forum topic asking for folks advise on how to use this piece of wood for a workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cabinet maker I bought my band saw from gave it to me for free. It was made from two slabs from a green oak tree so it cupped pretty bad. It had been used as a table for a restaurant.
> 
> After assimilating everyone's advice I decided I would cut out the piths, re-glue the top and use it to make a French workbench like Roy Underhill does in one of his shows. I love the splayed legs and I like the idea of a tool tray to keep things from rolling off of the bench. I have actually found a few antique examples of this bench online, here are some pictures I'll be using for inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what my Sketch Up drawings look like so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My top wont be large, about 68" or so once its done but that is pretty close to the dimensions of the examples above. It will be about 2.5" thick and it will be about 16" wide (core), 24" wide with the tool tray. It will also work well for the space I have.
> I've already cut up the top, removed the pith, jointed by hand one face and one edge of each of the 4 pieces so they are now ready to be fed through the thickness planer for the other sides.
> The nice thing about pithy wood is that the wood on either side is quarter sawn. So, I will have a lot of nice quarter sawn flecks in my top!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had a bunch of red oak I wanted to burn through for the legs and stretchers so this is a great opportunity to do that. They were all 4/4 so it has taken a lot of jointing and glue up to prepare them which was not fun since I don't have a jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you count my new #6 which has been indispensible on this project. Its been a lot of fun to joint these big pieces of wood by hand. I'm having fun and getting a little workout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOODEN SCREWS!: I'm going to be carving my own wooden screws for a leg vise and wagon vise. I'm following the instructions from Carters blog. The only exception is that I'm planning on carving the screw by hand rather than using a router. It seems very doable from everything I've read and I won't have the hassle of making a jig and buying a router bit. Also, I don't have a lathe, I had to buy my dowels, so I cant afford the trial and error of setting up the jig. I may make the router jig down the road if I buy a lathe and start making more screws.
> 
> I bought my dowels from these guys. I'm pretty satisfied with them. Luckily the 1 1/2" dowel I'm using for my tap fits just right in the whole made by my spade bit.
> The dowel for the screw is 2" in diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I satarted on some of the layout of he tap last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all I have for now. Next I'll be working on feeding my leg and top pieces through the planer when the kids are awake and working on the screw when they are asleep.
> 
> Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay tuned for the rest of the build.
> 
> Mauricio


Excellent progress, Mauricio! We've all been waiting for you to start this blog series! Best of luck on the remaining build.


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Top&Legs Jointed, Starting to layout the Wooden Screws.*
> 
> A while black I posed a forum topic asking for folks advise on how to use this piece of wood for a workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cabinet maker I bought my band saw from gave it to me for free. It was made from two slabs from a green oak tree so it cupped pretty bad. It had been used as a table for a restaurant.
> 
> After assimilating everyone's advice I decided I would cut out the piths, re-glue the top and use it to make a French workbench like Roy Underhill does in one of his shows. I love the splayed legs and I like the idea of a tool tray to keep things from rolling off of the bench. I have actually found a few antique examples of this bench online, here are some pictures I'll be using for inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what my Sketch Up drawings look like so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My top wont be large, about 68" or so once its done but that is pretty close to the dimensions of the examples above. It will be about 2.5" thick and it will be about 16" wide (core), 24" wide with the tool tray. It will also work well for the space I have.
> I've already cut up the top, removed the pith, jointed by hand one face and one edge of each of the 4 pieces so they are now ready to be fed through the thickness planer for the other sides.
> The nice thing about pithy wood is that the wood on either side is quarter sawn. So, I will have a lot of nice quarter sawn flecks in my top!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had a bunch of red oak I wanted to burn through for the legs and stretchers so this is a great opportunity to do that. They were all 4/4 so it has taken a lot of jointing and glue up to prepare them which was not fun since I don't have a jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you count my new #6 which has been indispensible on this project. Its been a lot of fun to joint these big pieces of wood by hand. I'm having fun and getting a little workout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOODEN SCREWS!: I'm going to be carving my own wooden screws for a leg vise and wagon vise. I'm following the instructions from Carters blog. The only exception is that I'm planning on carving the screw by hand rather than using a router. It seems very doable from everything I've read and I won't have the hassle of making a jig and buying a router bit. Also, I don't have a lathe, I had to buy my dowels, so I cant afford the trial and error of setting up the jig. I may make the router jig down the road if I buy a lathe and start making more screws.
> 
> I bought my dowels from these guys. I'm pretty satisfied with them. Luckily the 1 1/2" dowel I'm using for my tap fits just right in the whole made by my spade bit.
> The dowel for the screw is 2" in diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I satarted on some of the layout of he tap last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all I have for now. Next I'll be working on feeding my leg and top pieces through the planer when the kids are awake and working on the screw when they are asleep.
> 
> Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay tuned for the rest of the build.
> 
> Mauricio


All the 6's in the world say YEAH!

Wow! Looking forward to this one Mauricio. I love the fact that you take risks, throw caution to the wind and push yourself to do new things.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Top&Legs Jointed, Starting to layout the Wooden Screws.*
> 
> A while black I posed a forum topic asking for folks advise on how to use this piece of wood for a workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cabinet maker I bought my band saw from gave it to me for free. It was made from two slabs from a green oak tree so it cupped pretty bad. It had been used as a table for a restaurant.
> 
> After assimilating everyone's advice I decided I would cut out the piths, re-glue the top and use it to make a French workbench like Roy Underhill does in one of his shows. I love the splayed legs and I like the idea of a tool tray to keep things from rolling off of the bench. I have actually found a few antique examples of this bench online, here are some pictures I'll be using for inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what my Sketch Up drawings look like so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My top wont be large, about 68" or so once its done but that is pretty close to the dimensions of the examples above. It will be about 2.5" thick and it will be about 16" wide (core), 24" wide with the tool tray. It will also work well for the space I have.
> I've already cut up the top, removed the pith, jointed by hand one face and one edge of each of the 4 pieces so they are now ready to be fed through the thickness planer for the other sides.
> The nice thing about pithy wood is that the wood on either side is quarter sawn. So, I will have a lot of nice quarter sawn flecks in my top!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had a bunch of red oak I wanted to burn through for the legs and stretchers so this is a great opportunity to do that. They were all 4/4 so it has taken a lot of jointing and glue up to prepare them which was not fun since I don't have a jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you count my new #6 which has been indispensible on this project. Its been a lot of fun to joint these big pieces of wood by hand. I'm having fun and getting a little workout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOODEN SCREWS!: I'm going to be carving my own wooden screws for a leg vise and wagon vise. I'm following the instructions from Carters blog. The only exception is that I'm planning on carving the screw by hand rather than using a router. It seems very doable from everything I've read and I won't have the hassle of making a jig and buying a router bit. Also, I don't have a lathe, I had to buy my dowels, so I cant afford the trial and error of setting up the jig. I may make the router jig down the road if I buy a lathe and start making more screws.
> 
> I bought my dowels from these guys. I'm pretty satisfied with them. Luckily the 1 1/2" dowel I'm using for my tap fits just right in the whole made by my spade bit.
> The dowel for the screw is 2" in diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I satarted on some of the layout of he tap last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all I have for now. Next I'll be working on feeding my leg and top pieces through the planer when the kids are awake and working on the screw when they are asleep.
> 
> Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay tuned for the rest of the build.
> 
> Mauricio


it should be a pretty nice bench when you're done. I'll be following.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Top&Legs Jointed, Starting to layout the Wooden Screws.*
> 
> A while black I posed a forum topic asking for folks advise on how to use this piece of wood for a workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cabinet maker I bought my band saw from gave it to me for free. It was made from two slabs from a green oak tree so it cupped pretty bad. It had been used as a table for a restaurant.
> 
> After assimilating everyone's advice I decided I would cut out the piths, re-glue the top and use it to make a French workbench like Roy Underhill does in one of his shows. I love the splayed legs and I like the idea of a tool tray to keep things from rolling off of the bench. I have actually found a few antique examples of this bench online, here are some pictures I'll be using for inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what my Sketch Up drawings look like so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My top wont be large, about 68" or so once its done but that is pretty close to the dimensions of the examples above. It will be about 2.5" thick and it will be about 16" wide (core), 24" wide with the tool tray. It will also work well for the space I have.
> I've already cut up the top, removed the pith, jointed by hand one face and one edge of each of the 4 pieces so they are now ready to be fed through the thickness planer for the other sides.
> The nice thing about pithy wood is that the wood on either side is quarter sawn. So, I will have a lot of nice quarter sawn flecks in my top!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had a bunch of red oak I wanted to burn through for the legs and stretchers so this is a great opportunity to do that. They were all 4/4 so it has taken a lot of jointing and glue up to prepare them which was not fun since I don't have a jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you count my new #6 which has been indispensible on this project. Its been a lot of fun to joint these big pieces of wood by hand. I'm having fun and getting a little workout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOODEN SCREWS!: I'm going to be carving my own wooden screws for a leg vise and wagon vise. I'm following the instructions from Carters blog. The only exception is that I'm planning on carving the screw by hand rather than using a router. It seems very doable from everything I've read and I won't have the hassle of making a jig and buying a router bit. Also, I don't have a lathe, I had to buy my dowels, so I cant afford the trial and error of setting up the jig. I may make the router jig down the road if I buy a lathe and start making more screws.
> 
> I bought my dowels from these guys. I'm pretty satisfied with them. Luckily the 1 1/2" dowel I'm using for my tap fits just right in the whole made by my spade bit.
> The dowel for the screw is 2" in diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I satarted on some of the layout of he tap last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all I have for now. Next I'll be working on feeding my leg and top pieces through the planer when the kids are awake and working on the screw when they are asleep.
> 
> Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay tuned for the rest of the build.
> 
> Mauricio


Good job Mauricio. I really like your choice in bench style. Hand carved wood screw … that is going to be great to see. Thanks for posting.


----------



## RGtools

mochoa said:


> *Top&Legs Jointed, Starting to layout the Wooden Screws.*
> 
> A while black I posed a forum topic asking for folks advise on how to use this piece of wood for a workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cabinet maker I bought my band saw from gave it to me for free. It was made from two slabs from a green oak tree so it cupped pretty bad. It had been used as a table for a restaurant.
> 
> After assimilating everyone's advice I decided I would cut out the piths, re-glue the top and use it to make a French workbench like Roy Underhill does in one of his shows. I love the splayed legs and I like the idea of a tool tray to keep things from rolling off of the bench. I have actually found a few antique examples of this bench online, here are some pictures I'll be using for inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what my Sketch Up drawings look like so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My top wont be large, about 68" or so once its done but that is pretty close to the dimensions of the examples above. It will be about 2.5" thick and it will be about 16" wide (core), 24" wide with the tool tray. It will also work well for the space I have.
> I've already cut up the top, removed the pith, jointed by hand one face and one edge of each of the 4 pieces so they are now ready to be fed through the thickness planer for the other sides.
> The nice thing about pithy wood is that the wood on either side is quarter sawn. So, I will have a lot of nice quarter sawn flecks in my top!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had a bunch of red oak I wanted to burn through for the legs and stretchers so this is a great opportunity to do that. They were all 4/4 so it has taken a lot of jointing and glue up to prepare them which was not fun since I don't have a jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you count my new #6 which has been indispensible on this project. Its been a lot of fun to joint these big pieces of wood by hand. I'm having fun and getting a little workout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOODEN SCREWS!: I'm going to be carving my own wooden screws for a leg vise and wagon vise. I'm following the instructions from Carters blog. The only exception is that I'm planning on carving the screw by hand rather than using a router. It seems very doable from everything I've read and I won't have the hassle of making a jig and buying a router bit. Also, I don't have a lathe, I had to buy my dowels, so I cant afford the trial and error of setting up the jig. I may make the router jig down the road if I buy a lathe and start making more screws.
> 
> I bought my dowels from these guys. I'm pretty satisfied with them. Luckily the 1 1/2" dowel I'm using for my tap fits just right in the whole made by my spade bit.
> The dowel for the screw is 2" in diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I satarted on some of the layout of he tap last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all I have for now. Next I'll be working on feeding my leg and top pieces through the planer when the kids are awake and working on the screw when they are asleep.
> 
> Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay tuned for the rest of the build.
> 
> Mauricio


I am really looking forward to this thing going together. I think the tool well is going to work out very well for you since you carve.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Top&Legs Jointed, Starting to layout the Wooden Screws.*
> 
> A while black I posed a forum topic asking for folks advise on how to use this piece of wood for a workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cabinet maker I bought my band saw from gave it to me for free. It was made from two slabs from a green oak tree so it cupped pretty bad. It had been used as a table for a restaurant.
> 
> After assimilating everyone's advice I decided I would cut out the piths, re-glue the top and use it to make a French workbench like Roy Underhill does in one of his shows. I love the splayed legs and I like the idea of a tool tray to keep things from rolling off of the bench. I have actually found a few antique examples of this bench online, here are some pictures I'll be using for inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what my Sketch Up drawings look like so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My top wont be large, about 68" or so once its done but that is pretty close to the dimensions of the examples above. It will be about 2.5" thick and it will be about 16" wide (core), 24" wide with the tool tray. It will also work well for the space I have.
> I've already cut up the top, removed the pith, jointed by hand one face and one edge of each of the 4 pieces so they are now ready to be fed through the thickness planer for the other sides.
> The nice thing about pithy wood is that the wood on either side is quarter sawn. So, I will have a lot of nice quarter sawn flecks in my top!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had a bunch of red oak I wanted to burn through for the legs and stretchers so this is a great opportunity to do that. They were all 4/4 so it has taken a lot of jointing and glue up to prepare them which was not fun since I don't have a jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you count my new #6 which has been indispensible on this project. Its been a lot of fun to joint these big pieces of wood by hand. I'm having fun and getting a little workout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOODEN SCREWS!: I'm going to be carving my own wooden screws for a leg vise and wagon vise. I'm following the instructions from Carters blog. The only exception is that I'm planning on carving the screw by hand rather than using a router. It seems very doable from everything I've read and I won't have the hassle of making a jig and buying a router bit. Also, I don't have a lathe, I had to buy my dowels, so I cant afford the trial and error of setting up the jig. I may make the router jig down the road if I buy a lathe and start making more screws.
> 
> I bought my dowels from these guys. I'm pretty satisfied with them. Luckily the 1 1/2" dowel I'm using for my tap fits just right in the whole made by my spade bit.
> The dowel for the screw is 2" in diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I satarted on some of the layout of he tap last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all I have for now. Next I'll be working on feeding my leg and top pieces through the planer when the kids are awake and working on the screw when they are asleep.
> 
> Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay tuned for the rest of the build.
> 
> Mauricio


^Ditto to ALL OF THE ABOVE! Looking fabulous!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Top&Legs Jointed, Starting to layout the Wooden Screws.*
> 
> A while black I posed a forum topic asking for folks advise on how to use this piece of wood for a workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cabinet maker I bought my band saw from gave it to me for free. It was made from two slabs from a green oak tree so it cupped pretty bad. It had been used as a table for a restaurant.
> 
> After assimilating everyone's advice I decided I would cut out the piths, re-glue the top and use it to make a French workbench like Roy Underhill does in one of his shows. I love the splayed legs and I like the idea of a tool tray to keep things from rolling off of the bench. I have actually found a few antique examples of this bench online, here are some pictures I'll be using for inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what my Sketch Up drawings look like so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My top wont be large, about 68" or so once its done but that is pretty close to the dimensions of the examples above. It will be about 2.5" thick and it will be about 16" wide (core), 24" wide with the tool tray. It will also work well for the space I have.
> I've already cut up the top, removed the pith, jointed by hand one face and one edge of each of the 4 pieces so they are now ready to be fed through the thickness planer for the other sides.
> The nice thing about pithy wood is that the wood on either side is quarter sawn. So, I will have a lot of nice quarter sawn flecks in my top!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had a bunch of red oak I wanted to burn through for the legs and stretchers so this is a great opportunity to do that. They were all 4/4 so it has taken a lot of jointing and glue up to prepare them which was not fun since I don't have a jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you count my new #6 which has been indispensible on this project. Its been a lot of fun to joint these big pieces of wood by hand. I'm having fun and getting a little workout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOODEN SCREWS!: I'm going to be carving my own wooden screws for a leg vise and wagon vise. I'm following the instructions from Carters blog. The only exception is that I'm planning on carving the screw by hand rather than using a router. It seems very doable from everything I've read and I won't have the hassle of making a jig and buying a router bit. Also, I don't have a lathe, I had to buy my dowels, so I cant afford the trial and error of setting up the jig. I may make the router jig down the road if I buy a lathe and start making more screws.
> 
> I bought my dowels from these guys. I'm pretty satisfied with them. Luckily the 1 1/2" dowel I'm using for my tap fits just right in the whole made by my spade bit.
> The dowel for the screw is 2" in diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I satarted on some of the layout of he tap last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all I have for now. Next I'll be working on feeding my leg and top pieces through the planer when the kids are awake and working on the screw when they are asleep.
> 
> Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay tuned for the rest of the build.
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for the encouragement you guys!

Brandon, I hope mine turns out as nice as yours.

Andy, thanks for the comments and I love my #6, I now understand why the blade that came with it was almost all used up.

Don, I've been thinking about what you said before about aprons, I'm thinking of beefing up the front edge of the top with a 5" strip of oak, more for the visual thickness than anything. We'll see how it looks as it starts to come together.

Anthony, I've been obsessed with the idea of cutting my own screws for a long time, I've read and seen enough to know it is very doable, I'm looking forward to it.

Ryan, thanks, I know your not fond trays but I think your right about the carving tools. Getting a nick out of a carving gouge is a lot of work. Also I'm thinking the tray can be covered pretty easily with a plank when needed. This bench will be at planning height so I will need to make a bench top bench with a twin screw for dovetailing and carving.

The think I liked about Roy Underhill's approach is that he uses what he has. Roubo could get massive slabs of wood for a gigantic bench. Roy had a 3" thick by 12" wide piece of maple so thats what he made his bench out of. That really inspired me to say, hey, these are the materials I have, what can I make with it, and here we are!

Thanks again guys. I hope to have more on the tap and screw next… Maybe I'll do a video showing the thread carving process, I haven't seen that anywhere online, hopefully my learning's will help demystify the process.


----------



## hhhopks

mochoa said:


> *Top&Legs Jointed, Starting to layout the Wooden Screws.*
> 
> A while black I posed a forum topic asking for folks advise on how to use this piece of wood for a workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cabinet maker I bought my band saw from gave it to me for free. It was made from two slabs from a green oak tree so it cupped pretty bad. It had been used as a table for a restaurant.
> 
> After assimilating everyone's advice I decided I would cut out the piths, re-glue the top and use it to make a French workbench like Roy Underhill does in one of his shows. I love the splayed legs and I like the idea of a tool tray to keep things from rolling off of the bench. I have actually found a few antique examples of this bench online, here are some pictures I'll be using for inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what my Sketch Up drawings look like so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My top wont be large, about 68" or so once its done but that is pretty close to the dimensions of the examples above. It will be about 2.5" thick and it will be about 16" wide (core), 24" wide with the tool tray. It will also work well for the space I have.
> I've already cut up the top, removed the pith, jointed by hand one face and one edge of each of the 4 pieces so they are now ready to be fed through the thickness planer for the other sides.
> The nice thing about pithy wood is that the wood on either side is quarter sawn. So, I will have a lot of nice quarter sawn flecks in my top!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had a bunch of red oak I wanted to burn through for the legs and stretchers so this is a great opportunity to do that. They were all 4/4 so it has taken a lot of jointing and glue up to prepare them which was not fun since I don't have a jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you count my new #6 which has been indispensible on this project. Its been a lot of fun to joint these big pieces of wood by hand. I'm having fun and getting a little workout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOODEN SCREWS!: I'm going to be carving my own wooden screws for a leg vise and wagon vise. I'm following the instructions from Carters blog. The only exception is that I'm planning on carving the screw by hand rather than using a router. It seems very doable from everything I've read and I won't have the hassle of making a jig and buying a router bit. Also, I don't have a lathe, I had to buy my dowels, so I cant afford the trial and error of setting up the jig. I may make the router jig down the road if I buy a lathe and start making more screws.
> 
> I bought my dowels from these guys. I'm pretty satisfied with them. Luckily the 1 1/2" dowel I'm using for my tap fits just right in the whole made by my spade bit.
> The dowel for the screw is 2" in diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I satarted on some of the layout of he tap last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all I have for now. Next I'll be working on feeding my leg and top pieces through the planer when the kids are awake and working on the screw when they are asleep.
> 
> Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay tuned for the rest of the build.
> 
> Mauricio


I like to see how you make the screw and nut.
It should be challenging.

Thanks for the blog.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Top&Legs Jointed, Starting to layout the Wooden Screws.*
> 
> A while black I posed a forum topic asking for folks advise on how to use this piece of wood for a workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cabinet maker I bought my band saw from gave it to me for free. It was made from two slabs from a green oak tree so it cupped pretty bad. It had been used as a table for a restaurant.
> 
> After assimilating everyone's advice I decided I would cut out the piths, re-glue the top and use it to make a French workbench like Roy Underhill does in one of his shows. I love the splayed legs and I like the idea of a tool tray to keep things from rolling off of the bench. I have actually found a few antique examples of this bench online, here are some pictures I'll be using for inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what my Sketch Up drawings look like so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My top wont be large, about 68" or so once its done but that is pretty close to the dimensions of the examples above. It will be about 2.5" thick and it will be about 16" wide (core), 24" wide with the tool tray. It will also work well for the space I have.
> I've already cut up the top, removed the pith, jointed by hand one face and one edge of each of the 4 pieces so they are now ready to be fed through the thickness planer for the other sides.
> The nice thing about pithy wood is that the wood on either side is quarter sawn. So, I will have a lot of nice quarter sawn flecks in my top!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had a bunch of red oak I wanted to burn through for the legs and stretchers so this is a great opportunity to do that. They were all 4/4 so it has taken a lot of jointing and glue up to prepare them which was not fun since I don't have a jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you count my new #6 which has been indispensible on this project. Its been a lot of fun to joint these big pieces of wood by hand. I'm having fun and getting a little workout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOODEN SCREWS!: I'm going to be carving my own wooden screws for a leg vise and wagon vise. I'm following the instructions from Carters blog. The only exception is that I'm planning on carving the screw by hand rather than using a router. It seems very doable from everything I've read and I won't have the hassle of making a jig and buying a router bit. Also, I don't have a lathe, I had to buy my dowels, so I cant afford the trial and error of setting up the jig. I may make the router jig down the road if I buy a lathe and start making more screws.
> 
> I bought my dowels from these guys. I'm pretty satisfied with them. Luckily the 1 1/2" dowel I'm using for my tap fits just right in the whole made by my spade bit.
> The dowel for the screw is 2" in diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I satarted on some of the layout of he tap last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all I have for now. Next I'll be working on feeding my leg and top pieces through the planer when the kids are awake and working on the screw when they are asleep.
> 
> Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay tuned for the rest of the build.
> 
> Mauricio















































MAURICIO: 
CUANDO FABRIQUES LA BENCH VISE, PUEDES CRUZARLE CON UN ENSAMBLE UNA TABLA EN SU EXTREMO SUPERIOR PARA SUJETAR MEJOR LAS PIEZAS!!!!!
YO LO HICE Y ME DIÓ UN RESULTADO MARAVILLOSO ;-D
SUERTE AMIGO


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Top&Legs Jointed, Starting to layout the Wooden Screws.*
> 
> A while black I posed a forum topic asking for folks advise on how to use this piece of wood for a workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cabinet maker I bought my band saw from gave it to me for free. It was made from two slabs from a green oak tree so it cupped pretty bad. It had been used as a table for a restaurant.
> 
> After assimilating everyone's advice I decided I would cut out the piths, re-glue the top and use it to make a French workbench like Roy Underhill does in one of his shows. I love the splayed legs and I like the idea of a tool tray to keep things from rolling off of the bench. I have actually found a few antique examples of this bench online, here are some pictures I'll be using for inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what my Sketch Up drawings look like so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My top wont be large, about 68" or so once its done but that is pretty close to the dimensions of the examples above. It will be about 2.5" thick and it will be about 16" wide (core), 24" wide with the tool tray. It will also work well for the space I have.
> I've already cut up the top, removed the pith, jointed by hand one face and one edge of each of the 4 pieces so they are now ready to be fed through the thickness planer for the other sides.
> The nice thing about pithy wood is that the wood on either side is quarter sawn. So, I will have a lot of nice quarter sawn flecks in my top!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had a bunch of red oak I wanted to burn through for the legs and stretchers so this is a great opportunity to do that. They were all 4/4 so it has taken a lot of jointing and glue up to prepare them which was not fun since I don't have a jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you count my new #6 which has been indispensible on this project. Its been a lot of fun to joint these big pieces of wood by hand. I'm having fun and getting a little workout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOODEN SCREWS!: I'm going to be carving my own wooden screws for a leg vise and wagon vise. I'm following the instructions from Carters blog. The only exception is that I'm planning on carving the screw by hand rather than using a router. It seems very doable from everything I've read and I won't have the hassle of making a jig and buying a router bit. Also, I don't have a lathe, I had to buy my dowels, so I cant afford the trial and error of setting up the jig. I may make the router jig down the road if I buy a lathe and start making more screws.
> 
> I bought my dowels from these guys. I'm pretty satisfied with them. Luckily the 1 1/2" dowel I'm using for my tap fits just right in the whole made by my spade bit.
> The dowel for the screw is 2" in diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I satarted on some of the layout of he tap last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all I have for now. Next I'll be working on feeding my leg and top pieces through the planer when the kids are awake and working on the screw when they are asleep.
> 
> Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay tuned for the rest of the build.
> 
> Mauricio


*MAURICIO
WHEN YOU BUILDING THE BENCH VISE , YOU CROSS WITH A ASSEMBLY A TABLE TOP END TO HOLD YOUR BEST PARTS!!
I DID AND GAVE ME A WONDERFUL RESULT;-D
LUCK FRIEND *


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Top&Legs Jointed, Starting to layout the Wooden Screws.*
> 
> A while black I posed a forum topic asking for folks advise on how to use this piece of wood for a workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A cabinet maker I bought my band saw from gave it to me for free. It was made from two slabs from a green oak tree so it cupped pretty bad. It had been used as a table for a restaurant.
> 
> After assimilating everyone's advice I decided I would cut out the piths, re-glue the top and use it to make a French workbench like Roy Underhill does in one of his shows. I love the splayed legs and I like the idea of a tool tray to keep things from rolling off of the bench. I have actually found a few antique examples of this bench online, here are some pictures I'll be using for inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what my Sketch Up drawings look like so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My top wont be large, about 68" or so once its done but that is pretty close to the dimensions of the examples above. It will be about 2.5" thick and it will be about 16" wide (core), 24" wide with the tool tray. It will also work well for the space I have.
> I've already cut up the top, removed the pith, jointed by hand one face and one edge of each of the 4 pieces so they are now ready to be fed through the thickness planer for the other sides.
> The nice thing about pithy wood is that the wood on either side is quarter sawn. So, I will have a lot of nice quarter sawn flecks in my top!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had a bunch of red oak I wanted to burn through for the legs and stretchers so this is a great opportunity to do that. They were all 4/4 so it has taken a lot of jointing and glue up to prepare them which was not fun since I don't have a jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you count my new #6 which has been indispensible on this project. Its been a lot of fun to joint these big pieces of wood by hand. I'm having fun and getting a little workout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOODEN SCREWS!: I'm going to be carving my own wooden screws for a leg vise and wagon vise. I'm following the instructions from Carters blog. The only exception is that I'm planning on carving the screw by hand rather than using a router. It seems very doable from everything I've read and I won't have the hassle of making a jig and buying a router bit. Also, I don't have a lathe, I had to buy my dowels, so I cant afford the trial and error of setting up the jig. I may make the router jig down the road if I buy a lathe and start making more screws.
> 
> I bought my dowels from these guys. I'm pretty satisfied with them. Luckily the 1 1/2" dowel I'm using for my tap fits just right in the whole made by my spade bit.
> The dowel for the screw is 2" in diameter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I satarted on some of the layout of he tap last night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that's all I have for now. Next I'll be working on feeding my leg and top pieces through the planer when the kids are awake and working on the screw when they are asleep.
> 
> Thanks for reading and I hope you'll stay tuned for the rest of the build.
> 
> Mauricio


Kova, esta excelente su idea. Lo que me preocupa de eso es que si sujetas una pieza muy lejos del tornillo le causara mucho estres. Y mas porque mi tornillo sera de madera

Kova, that is an excellent idea. What worries me is that if I clamp a work piece to far away from the screw it would cause to much stress on the screw. Especially since my screw will be made of wood.


----------



## mochoa

*Guide Block for the Wooden Screw Tap*

Hello LJ's,

As noted in the previous post I'm halfway through the milling of my lumber. I've set that aside for the weekend when I can run my machines without waking the kids.

For now I'm starting to work on the wooden screw for my leg vise.

First I thought I would post some of my sketches for my wooden screw plans. Maybe they will be helpful for someone else. Sorry, not as pretty as Mads sketches…


























Here is what I got done last night. 
I had already glued together the two pieces of 2×4 for the guide block.

-Last night I cut out the recess for chips
-Cut the kerf for the guide plate.









Then I cut up an old saw for the metal guide piece. No one will miss this crappy old Buck Bros Saw!
Stuck it in and marked out the shape:









Then used the calipers to scratch out the 1/4" protrusion:









I will save you from seeing the pictures of the metal cutting, It was ugly since I only had a hacksaw, that was going slow so I changed to sheet metal snips. That was a little faster but uglier. I need to buy an angle grinder or a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade for the next metal working project.

Once it was cut out I had to cut the semicircle. Here I used the hacksaw to remove most of the waste and then a round file to refine the shape:









And voila! I have a guide block for my tap!









It's so exciting to finally be making progress on this screw project!

Next I need to cut the kerf that guides the tap, make a mortise and wedge for the cutter, and of course I need to make the cutter.

Thanks for reading!

Mauricio


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Guide Block for the Wooden Screw Tap*
> 
> Hello LJ's,
> 
> As noted in the previous post I'm halfway through the milling of my lumber. I've set that aside for the weekend when I can run my machines without waking the kids.
> 
> For now I'm starting to work on the wooden screw for my leg vise.
> 
> First I thought I would post some of my sketches for my wooden screw plans. Maybe they will be helpful for someone else. Sorry, not as pretty as Mads sketches…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I got done last night.
> I had already glued together the two pieces of 2×4 for the guide block.
> 
> -Last night I cut out the recess for chips
> -Cut the kerf for the guide plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut up an old saw for the metal guide piece. No one will miss this crappy old Buck Bros Saw!
> Stuck it in and marked out the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then used the calipers to scratch out the 1/4" protrusion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will save you from seeing the pictures of the metal cutting, It was ugly since I only had a hacksaw, that was going slow so I changed to sheet metal snips. That was a little faster but uglier. I need to buy an angle grinder or a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade for the next metal working project.
> 
> Once it was cut out I had to cut the semicircle. Here I used the hacksaw to remove most of the waste and then a round file to refine the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And voila! I have a guide block for my tap!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's so exciting to finally be making progress on this screw project!
> 
> Next I need to cut the kerf that guides the tap, make a mortise and wedge for the cutter, and of course I need to make the cutter.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Nice. You'll be making screws for everything once you've done one. Very cool.


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *Guide Block for the Wooden Screw Tap*
> 
> Hello LJ's,
> 
> As noted in the previous post I'm halfway through the milling of my lumber. I've set that aside for the weekend when I can run my machines without waking the kids.
> 
> For now I'm starting to work on the wooden screw for my leg vise.
> 
> First I thought I would post some of my sketches for my wooden screw plans. Maybe they will be helpful for someone else. Sorry, not as pretty as Mads sketches…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I got done last night.
> I had already glued together the two pieces of 2×4 for the guide block.
> 
> -Last night I cut out the recess for chips
> -Cut the kerf for the guide plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut up an old saw for the metal guide piece. No one will miss this crappy old Buck Bros Saw!
> Stuck it in and marked out the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then used the calipers to scratch out the 1/4" protrusion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will save you from seeing the pictures of the metal cutting, It was ugly since I only had a hacksaw, that was going slow so I changed to sheet metal snips. That was a little faster but uglier. I need to buy an angle grinder or a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade for the next metal working project.
> 
> Once it was cut out I had to cut the semicircle. Here I used the hacksaw to remove most of the waste and then a round file to refine the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And voila! I have a guide block for my tap!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's so exciting to finally be making progress on this screw project!
> 
> Next I need to cut the kerf that guides the tap, make a mortise and wedge for the cutter, and of course I need to make the cutter.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Sweet! Can't wait to see the screw! I have the same crappy Buck Bros saw, so if you ever decide you need one, let me know. ;-)


----------



## CartersWhittling

mochoa said:


> *Guide Block for the Wooden Screw Tap*
> 
> Hello LJ's,
> 
> As noted in the previous post I'm halfway through the milling of my lumber. I've set that aside for the weekend when I can run my machines without waking the kids.
> 
> For now I'm starting to work on the wooden screw for my leg vise.
> 
> First I thought I would post some of my sketches for my wooden screw plans. Maybe they will be helpful for someone else. Sorry, not as pretty as Mads sketches…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I got done last night.
> I had already glued together the two pieces of 2×4 for the guide block.
> 
> -Last night I cut out the recess for chips
> -Cut the kerf for the guide plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut up an old saw for the metal guide piece. No one will miss this crappy old Buck Bros Saw!
> Stuck it in and marked out the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then used the calipers to scratch out the 1/4" protrusion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will save you from seeing the pictures of the metal cutting, It was ugly since I only had a hacksaw, that was going slow so I changed to sheet metal snips. That was a little faster but uglier. I need to buy an angle grinder or a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade for the next metal working project.
> 
> Once it was cut out I had to cut the semicircle. Here I used the hacksaw to remove most of the waste and then a round file to refine the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And voila! I have a guide block for my tap!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's so exciting to finally be making progress on this screw project!
> 
> Next I need to cut the kerf that guides the tap, make a mortise and wedge for the cutter, and of course I need to make the cutter.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


As far as I can tell it looks like you are doing a good job and it will work fine. I look foward to seeing how carving the screw by hand will be. If I didn't own a router and only had to make one screw I would do it by hand aswell. I may make a large screw in the future with 1 1/3 tpi, in that case I would do the screw by hand.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Guide Block for the Wooden Screw Tap*
> 
> Hello LJ's,
> 
> As noted in the previous post I'm halfway through the milling of my lumber. I've set that aside for the weekend when I can run my machines without waking the kids.
> 
> For now I'm starting to work on the wooden screw for my leg vise.
> 
> First I thought I would post some of my sketches for my wooden screw plans. Maybe they will be helpful for someone else. Sorry, not as pretty as Mads sketches…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I got done last night.
> I had already glued together the two pieces of 2×4 for the guide block.
> 
> -Last night I cut out the recess for chips
> -Cut the kerf for the guide plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut up an old saw for the metal guide piece. No one will miss this crappy old Buck Bros Saw!
> Stuck it in and marked out the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then used the calipers to scratch out the 1/4" protrusion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will save you from seeing the pictures of the metal cutting, It was ugly since I only had a hacksaw, that was going slow so I changed to sheet metal snips. That was a little faster but uglier. I need to buy an angle grinder or a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade for the next metal working project.
> 
> Once it was cut out I had to cut the semicircle. Here I used the hacksaw to remove most of the waste and then a round file to refine the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And voila! I have a guide block for my tap!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's so exciting to finally be making progress on this screw project!
> 
> Next I need to cut the kerf that guides the tap, make a mortise and wedge for the cutter, and of course I need to make the cutter.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


This is great Mauricio. Thanks for posting.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Guide Block for the Wooden Screw Tap*
> 
> Hello LJ's,
> 
> As noted in the previous post I'm halfway through the milling of my lumber. I've set that aside for the weekend when I can run my machines without waking the kids.
> 
> For now I'm starting to work on the wooden screw for my leg vise.
> 
> First I thought I would post some of my sketches for my wooden screw plans. Maybe they will be helpful for someone else. Sorry, not as pretty as Mads sketches…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I got done last night.
> I had already glued together the two pieces of 2×4 for the guide block.
> 
> -Last night I cut out the recess for chips
> -Cut the kerf for the guide plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut up an old saw for the metal guide piece. No one will miss this crappy old Buck Bros Saw!
> Stuck it in and marked out the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then used the calipers to scratch out the 1/4" protrusion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will save you from seeing the pictures of the metal cutting, It was ugly since I only had a hacksaw, that was going slow so I changed to sheet metal snips. That was a little faster but uglier. I need to buy an angle grinder or a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade for the next metal working project.
> 
> Once it was cut out I had to cut the semicircle. Here I used the hacksaw to remove most of the waste and then a round file to refine the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And voila! I have a guide block for my tap!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's so exciting to finally be making progress on this screw project!
> 
> Next I need to cut the kerf that guides the tap, make a mortise and wedge for the cutter, and of course I need to make the cutter.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


http://lumberjocks.com/projects/57123
*MAURICIO:
PARA QUE LA LEG VISE NO SE DESEQUILIBRE Y HAGA FUERZA TORCIDA, DEBES EQUILIBRARLA DESDE ABAJO CON UN PEDAZO DE MADERA DEL MISMO GROSOR QUE LA PIEZA A SUJETAR!!!!!!!*


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Guide Block for the Wooden Screw Tap*
> 
> Hello LJ's,
> 
> As noted in the previous post I'm halfway through the milling of my lumber. I've set that aside for the weekend when I can run my machines without waking the kids.
> 
> For now I'm starting to work on the wooden screw for my leg vise.
> 
> First I thought I would post some of my sketches for my wooden screw plans. Maybe they will be helpful for someone else. Sorry, not as pretty as Mads sketches…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I got done last night.
> I had already glued together the two pieces of 2×4 for the guide block.
> 
> -Last night I cut out the recess for chips
> -Cut the kerf for the guide plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut up an old saw for the metal guide piece. No one will miss this crappy old Buck Bros Saw!
> Stuck it in and marked out the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then used the calipers to scratch out the 1/4" protrusion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will save you from seeing the pictures of the metal cutting, It was ugly since I only had a hacksaw, that was going slow so I changed to sheet metal snips. That was a little faster but uglier. I need to buy an angle grinder or a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade for the next metal working project.
> 
> Once it was cut out I had to cut the semicircle. Here I used the hacksaw to remove most of the waste and then a round file to refine the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And voila! I have a guide block for my tap!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's so exciting to finally be making progress on this screw project!
> 
> Next I need to cut the kerf that guides the tap, make a mortise and wedge for the cutter, and of course I need to make the cutter.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio






























http://lumberjocks.com/projects/57123
*MAURICIO:
PARA QUE LA LEG VISE NO SE DESEQUILIBRE Y HAGA FUERZA TORCIDA, DEBES EQUILIBRARLA DESDE ABAJO CON UN PEDAZO DE MADERA DEL MISMO GROSOR QUE LA PIEZA A SUJETAR!!!!!!!*


----------



## RGtools

mochoa said:


> *Guide Block for the Wooden Screw Tap*
> 
> Hello LJ's,
> 
> As noted in the previous post I'm halfway through the milling of my lumber. I've set that aside for the weekend when I can run my machines without waking the kids.
> 
> For now I'm starting to work on the wooden screw for my leg vise.
> 
> First I thought I would post some of my sketches for my wooden screw plans. Maybe they will be helpful for someone else. Sorry, not as pretty as Mads sketches…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I got done last night.
> I had already glued together the two pieces of 2×4 for the guide block.
> 
> -Last night I cut out the recess for chips
> -Cut the kerf for the guide plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut up an old saw for the metal guide piece. No one will miss this crappy old Buck Bros Saw!
> Stuck it in and marked out the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then used the calipers to scratch out the 1/4" protrusion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will save you from seeing the pictures of the metal cutting, It was ugly since I only had a hacksaw, that was going slow so I changed to sheet metal snips. That was a little faster but uglier. I need to buy an angle grinder or a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade for the next metal working project.
> 
> Once it was cut out I had to cut the semicircle. Here I used the hacksaw to remove most of the waste and then a round file to refine the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And voila! I have a guide block for my tap!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's so exciting to finally be making progress on this screw project!
> 
> Next I need to cut the kerf that guides the tap, make a mortise and wedge for the cutter, and of course I need to make the cutter.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


I am so jealous on this part of your project. Making a press screw is on my bucket list.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Guide Block for the Wooden Screw Tap*
> 
> Hello LJ's,
> 
> As noted in the previous post I'm halfway through the milling of my lumber. I've set that aside for the weekend when I can run my machines without waking the kids.
> 
> For now I'm starting to work on the wooden screw for my leg vise.
> 
> First I thought I would post some of my sketches for my wooden screw plans. Maybe they will be helpful for someone else. Sorry, not as pretty as Mads sketches…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I got done last night.
> I had already glued together the two pieces of 2×4 for the guide block.
> 
> -Last night I cut out the recess for chips
> -Cut the kerf for the guide plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut up an old saw for the metal guide piece. No one will miss this crappy old Buck Bros Saw!
> Stuck it in and marked out the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then used the calipers to scratch out the 1/4" protrusion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will save you from seeing the pictures of the metal cutting, It was ugly since I only had a hacksaw, that was going slow so I changed to sheet metal snips. That was a little faster but uglier. I need to buy an angle grinder or a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade for the next metal working project.
> 
> Once it was cut out I had to cut the semicircle. Here I used the hacksaw to remove most of the waste and then a round file to refine the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And voila! I have a guide block for my tap!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's so exciting to finally be making progress on this screw project!
> 
> Next I need to cut the kerf that guides the tap, make a mortise and wedge for the cutter, and of course I need to make the cutter.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


RG, hopefully this inspires you to.do it, its been easy so far. But I have a lot more to go.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Guide Block for the Wooden Screw Tap*
> 
> Hello LJ's,
> 
> As noted in the previous post I'm halfway through the milling of my lumber. I've set that aside for the weekend when I can run my machines without waking the kids.
> 
> For now I'm starting to work on the wooden screw for my leg vise.
> 
> First I thought I would post some of my sketches for my wooden screw plans. Maybe they will be helpful for someone else. Sorry, not as pretty as Mads sketches…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I got done last night.
> I had already glued together the two pieces of 2×4 for the guide block.
> 
> -Last night I cut out the recess for chips
> -Cut the kerf for the guide plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I cut up an old saw for the metal guide piece. No one will miss this crappy old Buck Bros Saw!
> Stuck it in and marked out the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then used the calipers to scratch out the 1/4" protrusion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will save you from seeing the pictures of the metal cutting, It was ugly since I only had a hacksaw, that was going slow so I changed to sheet metal snips. That was a little faster but uglier. I need to buy an angle grinder or a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade for the next metal working project.
> 
> Once it was cut out I had to cut the semicircle. Here I used the hacksaw to remove most of the waste and then a round file to refine the shape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And voila! I have a guide block for my tap!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's so exciting to finally be making progress on this screw project!
> 
> Next I need to cut the kerf that guides the tap, make a mortise and wedge for the cutter, and of course I need to make the cutter.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Carter, thanks for checking out my progress. And thanks for putting up your tutorial. I'm looking forward to the carving phase of this project.


----------



## mochoa

*Tap for Wooden Nut*

Hello again,

On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.

If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.

Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)









Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel. 









Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw









Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook. 









The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.

The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such. 









This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter. 









I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance. 

















I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.









I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.









The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.

Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench. 

















And here is the first pass through the nut.









It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.

And here is the final product!!!









And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.

I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.

Thanks for watching,

Mauricio

EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


----------



## Bertha

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Friggin awesome.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


I was wondering where my damn chisels went!

Wonderful job Mauricio. Quite resourceful.


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Great work, Mauricio! I see this coming in handy for all sorts of things!


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Thanks for the blog. I have added this to my favorites, to be frefered to when I get around to doing the same thing.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Outstanding Mauricio. Thanks.


----------



## luv2learn

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Mauricio, I am glad you decided to do a blog on this. I originally saw this done by Carter also, http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648 but it is encouraging to see another woodworker repeat his method. I will be trying this method when I start my work bench project. Great job!!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Thanks for all the comments guys and thanks for watching.

Luv2Learn, Don - or anyone else thinking of doing this, I encourage you to try, it doesn't take that long and is not hard. I would equate the difficulty level to making a wooden plane for the first time.

I ordered my dowels because I don't have a lathe and besides the grinder I haven't used a power tool yet. I won't need it for the cutting the threads on the screw either.

However, I am contemplating making the router jig for cutting the threads on the screw, especially since I already have this practice nut made, I can easily turn it into the thread cutting jig. It would be handy if I plan to make more.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Scott, what do you know about these medical chisels? What do you use them for as a doctor?

I'm pretty sure they are stainless steel, especially after seeing the sparks the steel makes at the grinder.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Mauricio, we call them osteotomes. I use them quite often to chisel bone i.e. taking a bone graft. Most surgical steel is 316 stainless.


----------



## Bertha

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


^No metallurgist here, give me the Cliffs on 316. Don't mean to be gory, but surgeons leave good looking stuff in my patients. I autoclave it and put it in a box. No one's asked for it back yet. Is it worth shaping into something? Mauricio, while your friend is at it, hit up the radiology dept. for spent lead. Reloaders love that premium stuff.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Maybe THAT is what happened to my osteotomes. I left them somewhere and I can't find them. Just kidding (before the lawyer types can't sense the humor)


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Ha Ha ha, Al, your patients are not usually living if I remember right?

It held up well in this application where it was scraping the wood out for the nut. Here is a little info I found on it. My guess is it is Medium Carbon Steel. I dont know if stainless steel has the edge retention of the high carbon steel we use for woodworking.

http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=863

"Grade 316 is the standard molybdenum-bearing grade, second in importance to 304 amongst the austenitic stainless steels. The molybdenum gives 316 better overall corrosion resistant properties than Grade 304, particularly higher resistance to pitting and crevice corrosion in chloride environments. It has excellent forming and welding characteristics. It is readily brake or roll formed into a variety of parts for applications in the industrial, architectural, and transportation fields. Grade 316 also has outstanding welding characteristics. Post-weld annealing is not required when welding thin sections.

Grade 316L, the low carbon version of 316 and is immune from sensitisation (grain boundary carbide precipitation). Thus it is extensively used in heavy gauge welded components (over about 6mm). Grade 316H, with its higher carbon content has application at elevated temperatures, as does stabilised grade 316Ti.

The austenitic structure also gives these grades excellent toughness, even down to cryogenic temperatures.

Key PropertiesThese properties are specified for flat rolled product (plate, sheet and coil) in ASTM A240/A240M. Similar but not necessarily identical properties are specified for other products such as pipe and bar in their respective specifications."


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Al, I bet he can get the spent lead, I'll ask. ;-)


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Thanks for the close-ups and explanations Mauricio. Definitely one for the favourites. I must try this.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Thanks Brit! Hey I'm getting Favorite-ed by some woodworking studs. I'm honored.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Mauricio, I am confused about one step. Did you cut the blade from the handle. One pic shows the intact chisel in the vise the next you are grinding the bevel on a ~2" piece of steel.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Yeah I cut it off the handle and sharpened the thick end of the blade part and blunted the sharp end.


----------



## phtaylor36

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Wow. Awesome stuff. My wife just rolls her eyes after I tell her I'll be able to make my own screws and nuts…


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


^LOL Philip, I can relate to that, my wife still doesn't get what the heck I'm doing.

I thought she didn't understand the whole tap/die internal/eternal diameter thing so I tried explaining it to her, at the end I ask "does it make sense now", she says "no I still don't understand what the screw is for"…. Lol, I think she will just have to wait to see the final result for it to make sense.


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


We're all waiting to see the final result Mauricio. I don't know what's taking you so long. 

Seriously though, don't you find things always take longer than you think they will. Yesterday I thought I'd have my saw vise finished today, but although I worked hard on it, I've probably still got another day's worth of work to do if I'm honest. Still it is all about the journey, not how quickly you get there. At least, that's what I tell the wife.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Tap for Wooden Nut*
> 
> Hello again,
> 
> On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I've made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I'm very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward.
> 
> If you're like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation.
> 
> Laid out thread pitch on paper (2tpi so on tick mark every 1/2" then connect the dots)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Taped the layout sheet onto the dowel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used double stick carpet tape to attached the depth stop onto my saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then simply cut down the line on my shooting board/Bench hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kerf with this saw was actually to narrow so I had to go back over it with my panel saw to widen it out.
> 
> The next step is to find some steel to use as a cutter. My friend works at hospitals with a medical equipment company. He hooked me up with some surgical chisels that they were getting rid of. He said they were stainless steel so I was a little concerned that they wouldn't be ideal for woodworking but the one I used worked out great. I plan to use the others to make Skew chisels and such.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1/2" chisel I used for my cutter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ground the 45 degree angles on both sides with the tool rest set on a slight angle to give the back edge of the blade good clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a little hollow grind on the face of it to make it easier to flatten the face.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blade is wedge shaped so I used it in conjunction with a wooden wedge and it held in place pretty well.
> 
> Here is how I set up my Tap. The guide block is clamped to the nut, and the nut is clamped to the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first pass through the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It only takes 5 turns to get through this nut (about 2 1/2"). You have to make a lot of light passes to get to the full depth of the thread, I lost count but it was about 12ish.
> 
> And here is the final product!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no project is complete without a drop of blood on it (top right of the whole). lol, I'm sure this happens to everyone.
> 
> I'll be working on the screw next. I'll be carving it by had, it seems pretty straight forward. Pray that it fits the nut! I don't see any reason it shouldn't.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio
> 
> EDIT: I cant forget to again thank Carter for posting his blog on making wooden screws. He has some pretty good videos on the process here http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/27648


Andy, LOL, everything takes way to long, its partially because I don't like to do the same project twice so I'm constantly climbing the learning curve.

The other problem I have is focus, I start new projects before I finish the last one. And then one day I'll finish 3 or 4 projects in the same week, it makes me feel very productive for that week at least. ;-)

For example, I didn't carve my screw last night because I was varnishing a bookshelf for my son that's been sitting in the shop for a month or so. I actually made it very quickly I just don't relish the finishing process. Got to make the wife happy and as I stated earlier she doesn't appreciate the whole wooden screw thing. lol.


----------



## mochoa

*Wooden Screw*

Hello again my friends,

I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.

First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs. 









Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip. 









I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer. 









I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper. 









Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet. 









After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.









I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…


















It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104

So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.

Thanks for reading!

Mauricio


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Wow that does look like a lot of work! Hopefully the router will make short order of it.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


That 2" of carving took me 2hrs, I have 19" of thread to cut! F that, I was getting faster but still…


----------



## RGtools

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


That is a long process. I could only imagine. The is another hand tool way to do it though, you can make a threadbox that shaves it down to perfect. Roy Underhil did a great translation of Andre Roubo's description of how to do this in his book Working with Wedge and Edge…which also contains plans for the bench you are building so you might have seen this already.

Take care and I am looking forward to seeing this come together.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


talk about screwing it up! Its still pretty cool the way you've worked it by hand, but I think I'd power threw it as well.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


"...I have 19" of thread to cut! F that…"

<chuckle>


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks everyone for commenting.

Hey RG, I have Underhill's book and I havent looked at in in a while but if I'm not mistaken he says that anything 2" and above is cut by hand the way I'm doing it. Those dies they sell cut the whole thread in one shot, not llittle by little (if I'm not mistaken) so the force needed to turn one is too great.

I like to do things galoot style as much as possible because I think its more fun. But we all have our limits I have a day job and the bit is on sale at rockler right now for $12.99!

Also, I'd like to do more in the future so the router jig I tihnk is going to be the way to go.


----------



## RGtools

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


You are correct sir…but I thought about it and I wondered if you could rough it out first and shave it clean using the die.,.crap, you might as well use the router.

I might as well grab one too.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Do it RG! The tap is easy to make, Your test nut becomes your temporary nut to attache the router too. A very doable project.


----------



## jjw5858

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Hey Mauricio, fantastic work…no worries my friend…..I won't tell Roy Underhill if you don't!......lol
Looks awesome and great post! Everytime I use my powered drill/driver I joke to myself or friends in the shop…..don't look and cover your ears Roy!.....lmao. Looking forward to more, best wishes!

Joe


----------



## phtaylor36

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


That is awesome. Makes me re-think making my own screws. Great info though, looking forward to see how it turns out.


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Look good Mauricio, very manly way to do it.


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


This shows your determination to get it done. Good work. Thanks for giving us a peak at the labor that this takes.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for the support guys, Its nice to be able to talk to folks that get it. Try telling your non woodworking friends that your making a 2" wooden screw and their eyes glaze over.

Heck, you'll get that look from actual woodworkers!

This project makes me feel like the Professor on Guiligans Island! LOL


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Using the finished saw bench too  Great work Mauricio!


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


You don't know unless you try Mauricio. Sometimes the old ways are best and sometimes not. I would definitely go with the router personally. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


My top is almost ready for glue up. I still need to rout out the space on the bottom of the bench for the wagon vise. I havent bought the screw yet so I'm trying to work out the geometry in scetch up before I glue it up.

The screw is to be continued right now but I did buy the router bit, now I have to make the jig. Also, I bought a couple of planes that need some love so that had distracted me too.


----------



## RGtools

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


NICE!!!I am excited to see that oak top all finished and covered in shavings.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for the support Ryan! 
I think I have the geometry worked out, as long as the screw drawing I got from 3d Warehouse is accurate. We'll see. The wife has girls night out tonight so more will get done tonight!


----------



## jjw5858

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Looking great Mauricio, this will look and work awesome for your projects! I look forward to seeing more! I know what you mean by getting old planes…haa…. right in the middle of a project and some great old tools find a way to take you away from the task at hand….I surely know that story…lol! Have fun tonight!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks JJW, sometimes its nice to have more than one project going at the same time. Give you options with your shop time. Sometimes when your on a big project its good to take a break and work on something else.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Looking good, Sir! Push to finish, you'll be so glad you did!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for the pep talk Smitty, those words will ring in my ears tonight while in the shop "Push to Finish"!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


. I know you want it done more than anyone… Silly of me to say "push". But, I did… lol


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


No I'm a slacker, I need the push, #5 in evaporust keeps calling me.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Leave it. bench is calling…


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


Learning to turn, its comming along:


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


I'm in the mood for a bit of peer pressure Mauricio.

As Shane would say: "Is it done yet?"

Scot's lapping you man!

P.S. Its OK to tell me to shut up. I can take it. )

Seriously though, I'm really impressed that you are learning to turn in order to make your vise screws. That's hardcore man.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw*
> 
> Hello again my friends,
> 
> I finally got some time to work more on my wooden screw. So here is what I've done.
> 
> First the layout, same pitch as the tap, I also lay out the groove for the external garter. Then saw to the line. I also used a set of dividers to score a center line between the kerfs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I use a pencil and my fingers as a fence and mark out a quarter inch chamfer around the tip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sit on my freshly finished saw bench and use my "Leg Vise" to hold the screw while I rough out the chamfer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then smooth out the bevels with sand paper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I started chopping out the threads with chisel and mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After roughing it out I go over it whith a square file and then 80 grit sandpaper glued to a square piece of wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get it to work, and I almost made it through the nut last night…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot of trial and error, putting the screw in, taking it out, knocking down the high burnished surfaces. It kind of sucks, I think will leave this method to Hero and Archimedes. I'm buying a router bit to finish this thing off. The good thing about having done it by hand is that I now have set up "block" for perfectly positioning the router bit. See Carters blog with a detailed video of that jig. http://lumberjocks.com/CartersWhittling/blog/29104
> 
> So I will be ordering the bit, I may carve it a little more in the meantime.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Mauricio


I need the push Andy, thanks! Keep them coming.

Well, I've always wanted to learn to turn at some point, this seemed like as good a time as any. That and my sister in law give me a gift certificate that I used towards the purchase. I could spend more money buying wooden dowels or buy an old used lathe and make them myself.

However, I do wish I had a bench already. I hung out with Brandon last night, we went to a local WW Guild meeting for the first time, and in the room there were nice benches everywhere, it made me really want to get this thing done.

But I'm having fun, its a marathon project for sure but I'll have a lot of new skills when its over.


----------



## mochoa

*Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*

I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.

Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:

The raw materials:
Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.









Cut out the piths.









I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top. 









Now the Plan:
Top









Wagon Vise plan:









I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.

















Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.








Followed by a cross cut by hand









The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand. 
It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that. 









Andy here is how the recess ended up.









Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.









This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.









So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.

















It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!

Mauricio


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


I'm looking at the picture of your drill press and seeing that you already have a "WORK BENCH"... 

Very nice progress, Maur!


----------



## RGtools

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Nice to see progress. you are going to have a great bench when you are done. I love this design and I am considering one myself.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


*ERES UN CARPINTERO MC GUIVER QUE ECHA MANO DE LO QUE TIENE, PARA HACER UN TRABAJO EXCELENTE Y TE ADMIRO POR ESO COLEGA ;-D*


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Smitty, Thanks!, that is a HF workmate that is little more than a folding table. I put on a plywood top to increase the size and clamping capacity but its never successfully clamped anything. Maybe a cutting board for belt sanding once. Mostly its my Router table, Planer, drill press stand.

Ryan, thanks for the comment and following the blog. I have a thing for the splayed legs as you know. I would consider making another one if I happened upon and old barn beam for the top. Working larger pieces of wood with planes is just a lot of fun.

Kova, gracias hermano, esa era la idea, trabajar con lo que tenia, le agrega otra dinámica/reto al proyecto que lo hace mas gratificante. El resto de la madera ya la tenia y tambien era la misma Red Oak (roble rojo?) asi que no me va terminar costando mucho esta banca.

Kova, thanks brother, that was the idea, working with what I had, it ads another dynamic/challenge to the project that make it even more gratifying. I already had the rest of the wood (Red Oak) so the bench wont end up costing me much.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


*Y VOS VAS A SALIR ENRIQUECIDO DE HABILIDADES PARA TRABAJAR LA MADERA ;-)
SIGUEN APARECIENDO LAS PRUEBAS DE QUE: LA FALTA DE DINERO AGUDIZA EL INGENIO JAJAJAJAJAJAJAJA*


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


I have to repeat that in English, Our Argentinian friends have a very different and colorful way of expressing themselves since they are basically Italians who speak Spanish. ;-)

"And your woodworking abilities shall be enriched. And it continues to prove that: The lack of money heightens ingenuity"


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


It's coming along nicely! I really like ray flecks on that oak, too.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Why is the punching dumy wearing a black dress?


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


glue overkill?

Scott, you have something against black dress?

And a shop-mate shot!

very good Mauricio.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Scott, thats because he's my biatch. I smack him around when I f*ck some woodworking project up.

Its an apron I got out of the kitchen, I dont use it any more, its yours if you want it?

Thanks Brandon & Don

Yeah, I overdid the glue a little. I poured it straight out of the gallon so it was a little hard to control.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio,

I really respect what you are doing here. Re-purposing wood by cutting out the pith then re-gluing the slabs. That is a lot of hard work and admirable.

The splayed leg design. You did not follow the herd like I have.

The resultant cavity for your wagon vise is the same as mine, except that the width of your stopped rabbet is the same as my dog hole strip - so mine was laminated.

What final dimensions are you going for?


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Nice progress. Looking forward to the reveal. That is a serious amount of glue. The black "apron" is a little disturbing : )


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Scott, I'm following PurpLev's design for the wagon vise and it looks like he got his inspiration from the Benchcrafted vise. Hopefully mine will turn out as good as his. He says it does the job pretty well. 
My bench including the tool tray will be 24" wide and about 70" long. 
I can't wait to see how yours turns out its looking awesome so far.

Shane that B.O.B. the shop gargoyle that is disturbing, he scared away the would-be tool thieves.


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio this is one of my favorite bench designs. And using the re-purposed wood is great. She should serve you well. Keep us tuned in.
Great work.
Do you own a glue scrapper?


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Bandit, I think he uses one of these to remove the glue


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


It is looking great Mauricio. Love the shots of the #6 and jointer (it gives me hope. i don't own a planer/jointer). I'm really looking forward to seeing the leg/top joinery.

Thanks for bringing us along.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Dave&Anthony.

Don, thanks for that clip, thats what I need! Nah but really I cleaned the glue off while it was wet. I will be planing the surface so it will be all good.

Anthony, the power jointer would have been handy I wont lie, but since the top is made up of 4 pieces it was maneagable to do by hand, fun, and a nice workout. Go get you some!


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, I'm just pokin. I've had some glue joints that look the same. It's looking great.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


No worries here Don, I consider you my woodworking older brother, or uncle, I can take a poke from you.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


So the top slab is done. What is next?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Building the Top w/ a Spot for the Wagon Vise*
> 
> I put my wooden screw build on hold for a minute. While I ordered the router bit I needed to build the thread cutting jig I made some progress on the top.
> 
> Here is a quick review from previous blogs of how I got to this point:
> 
> The raw materials:
> Started with a green table I got for free from a cabinet shop. Very cupped due to the piths in the slabs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut out the piths.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with the good parts which were all quarter sawn, about 2.5" Red Oak. The knots will be hidden on the bottom of the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the Plan:
> Top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wagon Vise plan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I squared up 3 sides of each of the pieces by hand with my #6 and wooden Jointer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I had to cut out the recess for the Wagon Vise
> This involved cuts on two of the top pieces before I glued them together. The first was a simple stopped cut on the Band Saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Followed by a cross cut by hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next piece I had to cut out a recess (stopped rabbet?) which all had to be cut out by hand.
> It was tricky since I had only squared 3 side to keep as much thickness as possible so I couldn't reference off of the bottom of the piece which would have been the most logical. So I used my router table and cut out a groove as high as the bit would go and finished off the rest by hand. By sawing, drilling, and chopping. That was not a pretty process so there are not any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andy here is how the recess ended up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once that was done I drilled holes for dowels to keep the pieces aligned for glue up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This really helped out tremendously when doing the glue up. This dowel trick together with perfectly hand planed joints, I felt like I could have glued this top together with one clamp. But human nature tells us to use almost every clamp we own just to be on the safe side. I used plenty of glue as you can see, no starved joints here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I have a bench top with a spot for a wagon vise! It netted out to 14" wide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all downhill from here. Stay tuned for the rest of the build and thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Maybe finish the wooden screw, I might beef up the front edge of the bench, square up the legs w the new #7, practice my rising dovetails…


----------



## mochoa

*Wooden Screw #2 *

I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.

As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.

Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep. 









This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….









Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty. 









So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood. 

































The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:








So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
Still a little chipping thought but not bad. 









Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
















The hub hit the router base.

I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.

I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!

I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!

Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!

Mauricio


----------



## PurpLev

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


"doh" moment - HA

looks like great progress.. one step at a time - or one turn at a time


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks PurpLev, I'm going to follow your blog for my wagon vise so thanks for that info. You have to tighten counter clockwise right? No biggy.

Here is a better pic of the screw, still a fuzzy cell phone pic.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


This is awesome stuff, great pics, too!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Smitty, the test screw also makes a nice club the keep in the car! ;-)


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Looking good! I'm sure it'd hurt pretty badly to get hit over the head with one of those things!

Can't wait till you perfect the system-then I can come over and make a new leg vise screw.


----------



## Bertha

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Gotta love getting to the end of a pass and realizing the tools are going to bind. I can't tell you the number of times I've been using a circular saw with a guide and realizing at the end of the cut that the motor's going to hit a clamp. These screws are really looking good! I'm building a jig. I'm going to make mine for a trim router. Think it will work? I recently bought a Bosch Colt for no good reason at all. Looked cool. I'm desperately looking for something to do with it.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Ha, I've had the circular saw clamp thing happen to me too, hate when that happens.

Al, are you going to make your own reverse pitch threads? I think a trim router might work, your only taking off a triangle 1/4" deep.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Al, that's why I've learned to always to a practice run/dry run once I get the edge guide and/or clamps, etc in place… I did it a few times while working on a project with my router before I decided this would be a good idea… oops!

Mauricio, they are looking great!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Mos!


----------



## Bertha

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


^lol, I've ruined more stock than I haven't. I routed COMPLETELY THROUGH a PC dovetail template before the bit hit a brass thumbscrew, jerked, the template fell off the machine, I was seated, fell backwards, entire assembly crashes to ground. lol.

I think I might get a 1/4" v-bit for my little guy and start playing around.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Brandon, I think once I get my router set up correctly I'm never going to use it for anything else again. ;-) So, Once I get it set up just turn yourself a blank and come on over, well drink a couple of beers while cranking out a screw and nut.


----------



## Bertha

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Two drunken nuts cranking out screws. That sounds like my kind of party.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Ha ha ha, Al, if you fell with a spinning router in your hand that could have been a lot worse.

I got my V cutter at Rockler on sale for like $12 bucks.

Damn their up to $21 now. 
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2122&site=ROCKLER


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


I knew their was a joke in there somwhere when I worte it, I just wasnt fast enough.


----------



## Bertha

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


^lol. My table saw tipped over and smashed me in the head while I was installing my router extension. That could have been REAL bad. Luckily, my heads filled mostly with old malted barley and hops.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


^LOL!


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


I don't know a whole lot about wooden screw making, but noticed the "sign making" bit… wonder if a steeper angle would cause less chipping on the top of the threads? They're over double the price, though.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


I dont know I think so since it would be a thinner point, but then again the screw from Lake Erie Toolworks seems to have a 60ish degree angle but they must be making theirs on a CNC or something. You can see on the end of the thread near the hub it gradually trails off, you dont see the rounded stop like you would on a home made screw.

Carter says if I get the setting just right I wont get any chipping so thats wha I'm shooting for.


----------



## Bertha

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


^that's actually a really good idea, Mos. I like the idea of the laminate trimmer b/c mine's got the variable speed thing going. I figured that practicing on some 1" dowels, I could tweak the speed.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


lol you might have to start a "Wooden Screws of your Dreams" thread eventually


----------



## jjw5858

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Keep at it…..your learning a lot and it will look great!

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


"So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little." - Gotta love that.

Getting better and better Mauricio. Great job. Thanks for the update.


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, yeah, once you get it set up, just keep it there, and buy a new router if you need it for anything else. 

I do like beer.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Joe & Tony!


----------



## stefang

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Hi Mauricio, are you cutting to full depth or maybe too deep on each pass? If so, you might try taking several lighter passes instead to avoid the chipping. Not sure this is the solution, but just a thought.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Stefang, but unfortunatley the way the jig works you have to take the full cut all at once otherwise it wont pass through the jig.


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


First nice job on the screw. You are screws, I mean nuts. Thanks for showing your trial and errors, thats how we learn.
Great work Mauricio.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Hey have you guys seen this Japanese dude on ebay. He makes wooden screws a bunch of different ways. Here is one he does free hand on the router table.


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio,

I think the following should work (not tried)

Once your set up is correct, 
1) make a short screw in hard wood that you will keep as a reference. 
2) unmount your router without changing the depth of the bit and make a depth gauge by routing a V in a bloc (in which you have first cut a U )

The next time,
1) adjust the depth of the bit with the depth gauge.

2) put the reference screw in the jig;
than it should be easy to set the router at the correct place (and verify the correct depth [especially if you don't find anymore the depth gauge;-) ] ).
You would just have to bring the bit in close contact with the reference screw.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Good thinking Sylvain, Thanks! I have done that with one of the other chipped screws I have, it helps with the adjustment back to front, but since the screw had a loose fit it didnt work for the depth adjustment.

For the depth, I tried to insert a piece the 1.5" dowel that I used for the tap, this should be the correct depth that the router is shooting for, when I did that it was too tight and the screw jammed when i tried to cut it so it need to be set slightly deeper than that.

I made a new jig with a little more attention to detail so this process may work next time.

I may try your idea of making the depth gauge once I have it set just right.


----------



## luv2learn

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio,

Here is a link you might be interested in as you build your own threading jig. He has some insightful videos on how he set up his jig.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks L2L, I looked at one if his videos but he uses a indexing collar that sets it perfectly. I'm not sure how I could duplicate that.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


*LO LOGRASTE MAURICIO!!!!! TE FELICITO Y ME GUSTA MUCHO EL OLD LATHE QUE TE HAS COMPRADO :-D*


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Gracias mi hermano Kova, vamos a ver si por fin termino esta banca!
Thanks my brother Kova, lets see if I finally finish this bench now!


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio
there are a few intersting considerations here about clearances:
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/screw3.htm

The crest of the internal thread (nut) must not come in contact with the bottom of the external thread (screw) 
idem on the other side as illustrated on many sites about thread standard.
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTdtDo9ucklew6OS0FbBOCy4t3n7LZlLx1LLHvWWnDAjQ977uZ1

Unfortunately I didn't find a standard for wooden screw.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable.  The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Great links Sylvain, thanks for posting them.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Hey guys, I worked on the screw some more last night. Rather than make a new blog post I'll just update here.

I glued up the hub on a new Hard Maple Blank, turned the night before last, and ran it through the new threading jig last night. It started off pretty well with almost no chipping. Unfortunately towards the end I got some pretty ugly threads and the blank got increasingly hard to turn. I actually broke the stick I was using to turn the screw through the jig. The only thing I can think is that some chips got down into the jig and made it too tight.

Carters, router has built in dust collection which is probably why he didn't have this problem. I'm going to buy a vacuum attachment for my router for next time. Also, I'm going to cut the threads on the jig a little deeper so that I can cut the threads on the screw a little shallower to see if that improves with the chipping issue.

For now I'm going to use this as my bench screw and continue with the rest of the bench build. When I do make another screw I will probably use this one as my parallel guide. Below are some pics, sorry for the lack of clarity on some of them, I should have taken them with no flash.

Thanks for watching!


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Taking into account that the 4X Lego bricks are 15.8 mm wide,
the screw seems about 1 1/4"

Edit
I must be wrong those are Duplo bricks which are twice as big
so 2 1/2" X 2 TPI


----------



## Bertha

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio's next shop project:
.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Ha, nice dedective reasoning there Sylvain but those are larger blocks. The screw is 2" diameter, the hub is about 3.5", not sure how many mm that is.

The guy with the giant Roubo in Scott Landis book has a screw that is only 1 3/4" wide and he says it works just fine fine him, that kind of swayed my decision to go with a 2" screw. That and the fact that I'm not going to have gigantic 6×6" legs on my bench. Mine will be about 3.5"x5.5"

Al, dont be hattin' on my legos!


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


interesting tip found here :
http://www.rm-workbenches.co.uk/html/wooden_vice_screws.htm

"Each screw and nut are built from a solid section of beech that is soaked in linseed oil for several days prior to being threaded. The oil penetrates in to the timber and creates a self-lubricating effect along with really toughing up the wooden thread once it dries."

Although he may use a tap and die and not a router to make the screw.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Wow, that interesting Sylvain. I was thinking of useing beech but my lumber dealer didnt have big enough pieces of beech the day I went. I'm not apposed to gluing up two pieces of wood though, I may try it next time.

Its also interesting that he soaks the screw for several days before cutting them, That would take a lot of BLO. I guess you would have to soak them before cutting them because the oil would swell the wood and and affect the fit with the nut.


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw #2 *
> 
> I think most of you have seen a lot of these pics on other thread but I'll post them here for the Blog with more detail.
> 
> As you know last time I tried to carve my screw by hand, it worked but was slow going. So I built the router jig but have been having trouble dialing it in perfectly.
> 
> Here is the router jig I made. As you can see its a loose fit which is why I got a lot of chipping in the tips of the thread, I was cutting to deep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what happened when I fed my hand carved screw in. Sadly it was ruined….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better results when I started from scratch but still not acceptable. The screw works but it's not pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I ruined the dowels I had purchased so instead of buying more I bought an old lathe and learned how to turn a little. Here is some practice on some fire wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first go through the router got jammed, not deep enough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut that little piece off, tweaked the router and tried again. With success!!!
> Still a little chipping thought but not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Except for one hiccup. Doh!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hub hit the router base.
> 
> I have been working more on this little piece of my workbench odyssey. I've rebuilt the router jig with a little more attention to detail, bought some hard maple, and just cut out my blanks and glued on extra wood for the hubs last night. Once I turn them I'll be ready to make another go at the threads with the new router jig. Hopefully with no chipping. I'll update you guys on that for the next blog. Hopefully with great success.
> 
> I need to get this done and finish building my bench!!!
> 
> I've been enthralled with the idea of making my own screws for a long time now and very excited to be seeing a lot of light at the end of the tunnel!!
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio,

He just says "linseed oil" without specifying "boiled", so i thougt it would be crude linseed oil. There is a doubt.
When using a router, it might clog the bit. More details would be needed.

This guy has now another blog (aside from his commercial site):
http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/


----------



## mochoa

*Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *

Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.

Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great. 









Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!









I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
This is how it should look when done. 









So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron. 









I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun. 
Laid out the tenons on the legs









The notch trick to guide the saw









And ripped the tenons









Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.









Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws. 









The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak. 









I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.

I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.

I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.

I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley. 









I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.

So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today. 









Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.

Thanks for watching.


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Wow, I'm really beginning to be able to visualize it! Great work on the mortises and tenons, by the way. I'll say what we've all said before: This will be one sweet bench when its done.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks Brandon! You were telling me about hollow chisel mortisers last time we talked, I wat thinking about that the whole time. One of those would have been a huge time saver for me.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


i like how the oak top came out. Coming along nicely.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Looking good Mauricio. I was just watching the Woodwright's shop episodes on the splayed leg french work bench last night, so I now understand more about the design of your bench. I must say I like it.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks Don, I'll get some quality pictures for the grand finale'. Some of my cell phone pics are horrible.


----------



## sb194

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Looking good. Nothing better than using handsaws and planes to bring it toward completion.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks Mos, I decided I didnt want the rising dovetail though that would have been less work to cut than the mortices.


----------



## CartersWhittling

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Your bench is coming along. I remember when I was working on my buddy's bench we had to rest the bench top on the drill press too. That required quite the set up.


----------



## barecycles

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Well done…I like how it's coming along.

Let me ask you, are you abandoning the wood screw all together or will you pick it up at a later date? The reason I ask is I will be setting up to tackle this when I get back in town and I'm wondering if it's too ambitious for me.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Barecycles, no I havent given up, just taking a break and preparing my next strategy. Sometimes when you have some setbacks its nice to mix in some accomplishments to get you motivated again.

Making the tap is easy, making the guide block is easy, making the thread cutting jig is easy too once you have the tap done. My screw making attempts have always been usable but not as pretty as I would like.

My challenge is making them so the screws dont chip. Carter says if you get the depth right then the router wont chip the points.

I think part of my problem was I would get the depth right and it would cut well but then after a few inches the blank wouldnt turn. I think my issue was chips getting down into the jig so I ordered a dust collection hood for my router. We'll see how it goes.

Post pics of your screw when they are done!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Inching ever-so-close to a finished bench! Love your excitement w/ both hand planes, and bit/brace work, etc. Oh, how you'll love having this thing done and ready to work. Great progress, you're almost there!


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


and no stimulation in Smitty's remarks at all.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks Smitty! Its funny how in your mind you can go out into the shop and finish the whole thing in one evening, but in reality you just chop two mortices and cut two tenons. LOL.


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Ain't that the truth Mauricio. Great progress buddy.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


^ TRUTH!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


I'm contemplating cutting the next set of tenons on the band saw, I need to get this thing done! Also think I'm going to make a template to rout out the remaining mortises.

Thanks Andy, should we expect to see yours developing soon now that the Queen had her jubilee?


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


I might have to make some kind of bench soon Mauricio. Both of the screws on my Workmate no longer grip. Yesterday, I had to hold my saw vise in my Workmate with a 4' parallel clamp. I had to laugh, but it worked.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Hey Andy, you cant complain too much, have you seen what Mads is working with these days? I dont care what he says, that does not look comfortable. You'll get a good stretch in though.

Go for it Andy, YOU DESERVE IT!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


After all the work you have done for the wife latley you should be able to get approval to buy some hard maple?!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


at least a new workmate, for goodness' sake…


----------



## RGtools

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


I like the way you beefed up the thickness of the front. that looks like it might work quite well. Those would have been painful mortices to do by hand (been there done that…did not have the sense to break down and use the drill press).

Keep it up. I am looking forward to seeing those splayed legs we keep talking about.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


go for it Andy. I can't wait to the design on your portable bench. It'll probably be able to walk to the basement by itself!


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Mauricio I to have found with a brace and bit if it is not razor sharp oak can be a problem. For me the lead screw will waller out the starter hole and you are forced to get the bit through by pressure.
A wonderful build and high on the galoot scale. Nice work.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks Ryan but didnt you buy that bad aas mortising chisle? You kind of have to with on of those, at least once.

Thanks Dave, I actually have an auger file and I touched it up before hand, but your right you cant really do overlapping holes with the auger like you can with a fostner bit on the drill press.


----------



## jjw5858

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


This is looking really great Mauricio. You are doing fine work on this, enjoy the journey and keep on ahead! Thanks for sharing.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks Joe! This bench will go a long way to makeing my shop look a lot more galootsih. Cant wait to fire my 2×4 OSB bench. Your shop is inspirational to me by way, all those home made and vintage tools, spring pole lathe, not a power tool in sight… just looks like a nice place to be.

Andy, maybe you could put taperd legs on your bench, but they should taper down into a sharp point so they get a nice grip in the ground! What do you think?


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Those are some fine looking tenons Mauricio. It's looking great; so glad to see you back at it.

Thank you for posting.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Finishing the top and M&T on Front Legs. *
> 
> Hello friends. After more failure with the wooden screws I decided to order some dust collection attachments for the router and order some more maple dowels. While I waited for those to come in I worked on the top and legs. Here is a quick pictorial tour of my progress.
> 
> Flattened the top. This is the first real workout for the #7! Worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Square edges, stool as board jack. First real workout for the #5 to. I love it, it really gets the work done fast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided a 2.5" top looked to skinny in proportion to my legs, so I beefed up the front edge.
> This is how it should look when done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I glued on some more wood to beefed up the front 3.5" of the front. The finished thickness is about 3.5". The legs will mortise directly into this thicker part so its more than just an apron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut my tenons by hand, I seem to remember that this workbench was my excuse for buying the Veritas carcass saws so I had to use them. This part of the build was actually a lot of fun.
> Laid out the tenons on the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The notch trick to guide the saw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And ripped the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chisel out the line for the shoulder, and the notch on the corner again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tenons ready to go right of the saw. Almost no shoulder plane work needed to fit into the mortise later! Very gratifying to accomplish this with hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first mortise I tried to do galoot style with brace and bit but that was hard work in oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried a corded drill with forstner bit but that didnt work well and burned the wood.
> 
> I continued for a while with the brace and chisel but it was taking way too long. I had to figure out a way to use the drill press. Let me just say, I am ill equipped for work on this scale.
> 
> I had an idea but the hole time I'm thinking, "this is a bad idea, this is a bad idea" but I had to give it a try.
> 
> I sat my drill press on my flimsy HF workmate and held up the ends on my cheap HF roller stands. It held but barley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I almost dropped my drill press and bench top when pulling the top off the press but luckily I was able to catch both and avert catastrophe.
> 
> So here is where I left off last night (finished at like 1:30am) I'm hurting today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next will be the angled tenons for the splayed back legs.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks Tony, hope to post some more progress soon.


----------



## mochoa

*Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*

Hello Friends,

I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.

As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:

Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)









This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws. 









There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon. 









With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.









So here are all my leg tenons together. 









Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed. 









So here is the bench taking shape.









Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer. 









Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand. 









I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder. 









I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood. 








This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides. 









But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.









Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that. 









For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest. 









And here is the first stretcher in place. 









Now with both short stretchers









Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these. 









The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers. 

















Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise. 









I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine. 









And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..









Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.

















It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.

On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…

So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.

So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.

Thanks for watching,

Mauricio


----------



## CharlieM1958

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


That is going to be one impressive piece of woodworking when all is said and done. Heck, it already is!


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


So much progress, Mauricio! It's unfortunate about you stretcher mortises, but I don't think it'd be too hard to fix and it shouldn't set you back that much. Good luck on the rest of the build.


----------



## blackcherry

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio this is one for the favorite files, very unique in design. With all the angles and cutting its not hard to get twisted around but you made due and in the long run you'll have a workmate second to none. I will be keeping a eye out for the finish bench great work and thanks for posting …Blkcherry


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


I say lower the side mortise too, and cut a new short stretcher. (yeah, I know. I would suggest the hard way.) You've got a chance to make it right all the way around, so you should take the opportunity.

Now, feel free to not do this. It'll be an awesome bench - truly unique - regardless of choice! Thanks for the update, good work!


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible.
I don't think the router and band saw qualify 

great blog. Its going to be magnificent.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Charlie and Brandon.

Blackcherry, thanks and I'm honored to be added to your favorites!

Smitty, your messing with my head now. I had my mind all made up. The problem is that I'm all out of quarter sawn oak, so I would have to go out and buy some more, and it aint going to cost me $10 this time. Either that or use some regular old 8/4 Red Oak I have. 
Another option I just thought of is to trim an inch off the top of that stretcher, and shorten the mortise accordingly? The only drawback is that the bottom of all the stretchers would not align perfectly but they really do that now. My pieces are all different thickness and widths. I just run them all through the planer until they are flat and parallel and then stop. I kind of like the asymmetry that no one can notice.

Thanks Don. I didnt say only, I was careful to say as much as possible. . If I were doing this gain I would buy a bigger more aggressive tenon saw and cut them all by hand, it would have been much more accurate and faster! I hope to master band saw tune up one day though.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


P.S. the bandsaw is the quitest tool in my shop!


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Great progress Mauricio. I second what Smitty said. If you have enough wood to make another side stretcher, I say lower that one as well. It is going to be a great bench either way though.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Andy, but I dont have any more of that Oak? Would you throw a piece of flat sawn Red Oak in there or go get some more QTWO so it matches the rest of the stretchers? I mean, the QTWO is kind of wasted there really, you wont hardly see it either way.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


I like your 'Another option I just thought of' just fine! That's the ticket! And the adder can be red oak for character, no issues! If you ever do a shelf below, of some sort, add crips alongside the stretchers at a uniform 'height' and carry one. Even hide the red oak at or below said shelfline.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


My thought was to raise the short stretcher that is lower… that way you could have it match the other short stretcher in height, and wouldn't have to cut a new one; just shorten the existing one. You'd also have to raise the left mortices for the long stretches too. I'm not sure if the stretcher height was set where it was for a specific reason or not, so I'm not sure if this solution would be workable or not.

Either way the progress looks great! It's fun watching this come together since I want to make one similar in the future


----------



## PurpLev

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


oooh. starts to come together nicely! looks ready for some work


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Mos and Purp. Thanks for watching.

Purp I should be getting my screw this week to make my wagon vise a la PurpLev!

Smitty, I'm leaning towards just replacing with with Red oak at the uniform height. I just have to make sure I have enough for the stretcher and my two end caps (the original intent for that wood).


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


I think it is looking good. You will get it all worked out, but I think you should go the extra mile, if possible. I mean this is your bench. You are going to spend a lot of time using. You dont want to second guess it. Thanks for the update. Looking forward to the finished project.


----------



## CartersWhittling

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Perhaps you "burnt an inch" when using a measuring tape. That one always gets me.

You could cut the shoulders on the left tenons going into the bench top an inch lower, therefore bringing the left side up to the right. Then cut an inch off the bottoms of the right legs. The only problem with that is the bench is an inch lower. Although generally speaking most benches are never too low if you do hand planing.

Although that will only work depending on the short stretchers. Are both short stretchers the exact same length currently? If one short stretcher is higher than the other then one would be longer than the other. If the left short stretcher is an inch lower than the right side then you can proceed with my idea, you will also need to trim the left short stretcher as well.

Get what I am saying?


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio,

The splayed bench is very cool. I agree with Smitty et al. Take the time to correct the stretchers. They don't have to be perfect but make it "right." Once you draw bore and glue them beeatches there is no turning back. Dont leave something behind that will bug you. You'll do the right thing.

Looking foward to the next installment.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Shane, Carter, & Scott.

Carter, I dont know what you mean about burning an inch but I did use a tape measure so maybe that's what I did. Please enlighten me so I can avoid it in the future.

Also, that is a very good point I dont think the geometry of the tenon on the back legs would let me do that but it's a brilliant idea. Shortening the tops of the two legs would have been super simple. I'm planning on cutting 2" off anyway to make everything level with the back legs. I have about 2" blocks under the back legs now.

I get what you're saying about the short stretcher and it got me thinking. I cant move the right stretcher down without it being too short, but I can move the left stretcher up and shorten a bit. So instead of adjusting all 4 mortises on the right I do the ones on the left. That way I don't have to scrap the short stretcher on the right. Also, the gaps in the elongated mortises that I need to fill will be hidden on the bottom under the stretchers rather than the top!!!

The only drawback is that I will only have 15.25" between the top and the stretchers which won't leave room for much of a cabinet in the future, anyway its only a 1" difference than original plan. I wasn't planning on much a of a cabinet anyway, just wanted some cubbies for throwing bench hooks shooting boards and temporarily parking planes and saws.

Thanks for all your input guys, you have totally changed my thinking on how to solve this hiccup.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


I think what Carter meant by "burning an inch" is that he means starting the measurement at 1" on the tape measure instead of at the end, to avoid any inaccuracy that the end hook on the tape measure might introduce.

And for the record, what you took away from Carter's post is what I suggested ;-) Just saying 

I'm sure you'll get something figured out, and get this completed in no time


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


*MAURICIO: 
ESE WORKBENCH ESTÁ QUEDANDO ESPECTACULAR!!!!!
EN LO REFERIDO AL PROBLEMA DE AJUSTE DEL ENSAMBLE EN LA CAMILLA, LA TRADUCCIÓN ES HORRIBLE PERO CREO QUE DEBERÍAS GIRAR 180º CADA TRAVESAÑO Y LISTO ;-D
COMO EL TRAVESAÑO DELANTERO Y EL TRASERO ESTÁN IGUALES (EN LO REFERIDO AL ÁNGULO EN FALSO), INVERTÍ EL ENSAMBLE PARA VER QUÉ PASA, METIENDO CADA ESPIGA EN LA CAJA OPUESTA ;-)*


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Mos, You are absolutely correct. When I first read what you said I thought you were talking about only raising the left short stretcher, after rereading I see that your saying what I just said. You did plant the seed of the idea in my head though it just took me a while for it to sink in. I like the idea, especially since it makes the mortise plug more discrete on the bottom. You're a woodworking genius! My only concern is loosing the space under the top but like I said its only 1".

I wasn't using my tape measure like that but something strange happened for sure, the difference is exactly 1".


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Gracias Kova, lo voy a intentar, no se si funcionara pero no lo he probado todavia.

Thanks Kova, I'll try that (flipping the stretcher 180degrees), I'm not sure if it will work but I havent tried it yet.


----------



## jjw5858

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Nice job Mauricio. This is gonna be a nice bench my friend. Great work and blog, enjoy it!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Joe! Cant wait to get this thing done. Or at least the base assembled and glued up so I can start using it.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, you will let us know the final solution for the stretchers?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for the interest Scott, I'm still letting it marinade. Right now I'm thinking I will raise the mortises on the left which will give me the most seamless fix.

What gives me pause is the 15.25" space I will have between the top and the stretchers I never planned on making a cabinet and the difference from the original plan is only 1". I just wanted a place to throw tools down there in order to keep the top clear. Maybe some cubbies, but then I think about all the wasted space between and below the stretchers.

Underhill made a tool box between his stretchers, this design really lends itself to that but its not very practical, you could put stuff on the lid but then it would be a pain to get anything else out.

I think I may put some ship lapped boards on the bottom of the stretchers with no lid. That way I can keep stuff down there that won't fall off, I can always add a lid later if I decide or do the cubby thing I was thinking about that would just sit down in there.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Like this: 

































A couple of other options:


----------



## Boatman53

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio.. You could have a "drawer" on wheels that could go under the strechers.


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


It looks as you are having a great time. I have never built anything and not had problems. Thenyo overcom and modify. The bench is looking sweet. Very nice job.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


That is quite a handle on that last work bench.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Good thought Jim.

Dave, your right, its the mistakes that make it a growing experience. Thanks!

Scott, I never noticed that before, very long, I guess he likes a lot of leverage!


----------



## Bertha

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


^lol, Scott. It made me think of baseball.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


I'm almost done with my error fix! Thanks to everyone for the input and help on coming up with a solution. In particular credit is due to Mosquito for the solution I finally used. The repair will end up being invisible!
Here is where I left off last night. 
I'm starting to really love the look of this bench. 









Gap free joints, everything fitting nice and tight. 









Here are the gaps that I need to fill, you cant even see them unless you kneel down. I should have some tenon cut offs I can use as plugs. 









Cant wait to install this thing for the wagon vise!









Thanks for watching and for your support!


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Nice save Mauricio. I know I could tell you not to worry about the plugs but it would do no good. I'd have to plug them myself.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks, I agree, those spaces bother me, thinking about all the spiders hanging out down there.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


It's one of those things… although nobody who visits the shop will likely notice them, YOU will know they're there, and that will bug you… that's what usually happens to me! "Just leave it, no one will notice…" ... "yeah, but I'll KNOW"

Fix looks good, can't wait to see this come together


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


wrong thread….


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


*"But then again, to your point, you do have track lighting, anyone else have an opinion?"*

Nicely played sir!

:^b


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Mos, I might just use tenon cut offs, the end grain will show if you look down there that doesnt bother me really.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


^ ;-)


----------



## Boatman53

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio… Where did you get that screw for the wagon vise. It looks very long.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Jim, I got it from Lee Valley, your right it is longer than I need but the extra length will just be hidden under the bench.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Maur, well played!

Congrats on the fix, you've done an exceptional job. That bench is going to be a fabulous worker for you!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Smitty! I may get some more shoptime today.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher*
> 
> Hello Friends,
> 
> I'm long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I've made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I'm afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it's just frustrating. You'll see what I mean at the end.
> 
> As usual, I'll let the pictures do most of the explaining:
> 
> Cut the shoulders on the angled tenons. (Baby Monitor in the background, another good reason to use hand tools as much as possible) ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This time I decided I needed to move things along a little faster so I used the band saw instead of my hand saws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was some discussion about the strength of angled tenons, you can see in the pic that almost all of the grain runs the full length of the tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the band saw, what you save in sawing time you give back in tune up afterwards. But, it did give me a chance to play with my new #92.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here are all my leg tenons together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to rout the mortises. On this bench I've done pretty much every possible way to cut a mortise. For these I nailed down a template and used that to guide my router. I left some extra wood to pair by hand later for a tight fit. This can be pretty tedious. On the stretcher tenons I got wise and set the router to give me a good fit right from the start with little pairing needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is the bench taking shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then to joint one face of the short stretchers. I tried the Paul Sellers vise in the clamp trick, It worked great but I can't wait to have a wagon vise. To make faster progress I just took any twist out of one face with the jack plane, once it didn't rock anymore I ran them through the power planer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut the tenons on the band saw, these came out pretty nice. Since these stretchers were short and manageable I cut the shoulders on my table saw. All the other shoulders are sawn by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then clamp the stretcher in position and mark out the angle for the angled shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I came up with this contraption to use the cut off from the stretcher double stick taped to the stretcher to hold the piece at the proper angle to cut the tenons. The whole thing rides on a piece of plywood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This didn't go well, for some reason I got a lot of drift on the bottom of the cut. You can see how there is a lot of wood left outside the line, On the other side of the tenon too much was taken off, about the same amount of error on both sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it gave me a chance to try out my new #71! I love this tool. I haven't even sharpened it, too impatient, but for working across the grain it worked fine. Luckily I always leave a lot of extra length when I rough cut my pieces so I had a nice cut off to use to hold up the other side of the router plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the cleaned up tenons, I did cut off the ends so that I had a 1/2" shoulder all around but I don't have a pic of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the angled mortises I drill out the ends of the mortise with brace and bit, then use a forstner bit on the drill press to take out the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the first stretcher in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with both short stretchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my stock for the long stretchers with some Mineral Spirits on them, I scored some cheap QTWO for these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cool thing is that I'm already getting to use my bench to work on the stretchers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I position the stretcher to mark out the location of the mortise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a makeshift edge guide to rout out all the mortises for the stretchers. It worked just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the reassembled bench but there is a problem…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tragically there is a gap on each of the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It took me a while to figure out what the problem was. The legs were perfectly square to the top, and I knew for sure that the shoulders on the stretcher were perfectly square. Turns out that the mortises on the right leg are a full 1 inch higher than the left leg!!! :-( How did I mess that up? I don't know, but the worst part is that all 4 mortises on that right side of the bench are also off.
> 
> On the long stretchers all I have to do is cut the mortise 1" longer but then it will stick out above the stretcher so I will have to glue in a filler piece. But what about the short stretcher? If I slide that one down then the angel changes in relation to the back leg and the stretcher will be too short…
> 
> So I'm planning on fixing the mortises on the long stretchers and leaving the short stretcher as is. when I get around to putting in a shelf that stretcher will be an inch proud of the shelf. This doesn't bother me too much, also if I put in a cabinet that won't be noticeable at all.
> 
> So that's the plan going forward. Let me know if you guys have any better ideas.
> 
> Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Ok, I'm all plugged up and ready to move on! My plugs are cross grained but I think this will actually make it stronger and will counter any splitting force of the pegs. Not that its really neaded though.


----------



## mochoa

*Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*

Hello again friends,

I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.

These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.

*Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.










Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely. 









Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top. 









I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head. 
Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade. 









*Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum. 

























The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.

The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!









*Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components. 

















*Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.

But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible. 









The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.

This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg. 









*So here is where we leave off:*








Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.

I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.

Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!

Mauricio


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


That looks great, Maurico. I didn't realize how long that wooden screw was until you posted the side view of the bench.

Also, that jatoba looks very nice; I decided I want it back. Haha. ;-)


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Woo! It's starting to come together and look like a working bench! It must be a great feeling knowing it's working out so well!


----------



## RGtools

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Nice holdfast placement. I was so; excited to see another addition to this blog. It's been nice to see the thing from the concept stage all the way to almost done.


----------



## Bertha

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Loving the wooden screw. You've really been busy!


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Excellent work there sir! The splayed legs are definitely attractive.

How thick is your top and did you drill a "relief" hole on the underside so the holdfast will grip?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Brandon, ha ha ha, sorry you can't have it back! On that note though, I'm thinking of just putting wax on it as a finish, I've been reading a lot lately about oily woods and how finish can make them really dark, might have been on the hand plane thread. I'm gonna try it.

Yeah, the nice thing about making your own wooden screws is you can make them as long as you want. Well see if there are any functional limitations to clamping too far out from the leg.

Thanks Mos, I'm feeling super stoked, especially since I finished the wagon vise last night. I'll post that soon.

Ryan, thanks for the enthusiasm and support. Can't wait to see what kind of splayed leg creation you come up with.

Al thanks, that screw is a little chipped so I may end up cutting the hub off and using it as my parallel guide, I just got my new dowels in preparation for giving screw making another go. I got dust collection fittings for my router so I'm hoping that helps.

Scott, thank you sir! The top is mostly 2.5", the front 4" of it is 3.5". What's the relief hole about? I vaguely remember something about that. Do I need them? They seem to be working well now.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


What a bench. The screw looks photoshopped on top. It doesn't look Proportionate, its just to big to be a screw.

Very nice job!


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


If your holdfasts work then you do not need them. Some holdfasts do not grip as the depth of the holes approach 4" and thicker. One way to trick the holdfast is to drill, say, a 1" hole about an inch deep on the back side. Thus the holdfast only "sees" 3" of thickness in a 4" thick top.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


The second from last photo confuses me. The shadows on the bench top make it look like it is flush with the leg and there is a section cut out toward the front.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Don, maybe its just that the bench is smaller than a lot of the monolithic Roubos your used to seeing. Its only 2" in diameter but I did make the hub pretty beefy.

Scott, I think what might be throwing you off is that the ends still have varnish on them from when the top was a table. I glued on a 4" piece to the bottom and then glued on 3.5" piece to the front, those are unvarnished so they stand out. There is also a rounded corner on that first big lamination because that one was a corner of the table. It will make a little more sense in my next post when I crosscut the ends flush.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Scott, I still havent drilled my row of holes for the dogs, those will go into the 3.5" part, I want to use those for holdfast as well so I'll keep the relief whole in mind if its needed.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


So friggin' awesome Mauricio!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Tony!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Scott, by the way thanks again for sending me your workbench plans, they were very helpfull in working out the details of my deadman and wagon vise. Any update on your bench???


----------



## alba

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


It is going great. 

Jamie


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Jamie! Hope your health is improving and we'll see some progress on your bench, once you rescue yours from the misses that is.


----------



## jjw5858

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Looks like a great bench Mauricio, it is gonna be a real pleasure for you to do projects on this. Thanks for posting!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Joe! It already is, I've been using it to build the end caps and wagon vise and its been great.


----------



## chrisstef

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


My jealousy factor is hovering around an 8 …. i love the splayed legs.


----------



## bhog

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Beefy looking bench man.Nice work.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Chris, I hope I can improve on that 8 shortly. ;-)

Thanks Brandon, that reminds me I want to weight all the parts before I put it together, just curious about how much it weighs. Its not super massive but its pretty heavy.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, at 2.5" I don't think you will need a counter bore ( that's the right term that I couldn't think off during the previous post).

Now, food for thought. I remember a "conversation" somewhere here about dog holes being absolutely perpendicular. Some swore by drill presses and some swore by an 3/4" up spiral bit for a router. I personally thought this over zealous and I hope that some of our collegues can chime in. If I remember correctly Ryan did his dog holes with a brace.

I personally don't think that level of precision is needed for a dog hole. however, if one is to err I would err 2 degrees toward the tail vise.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Good point, I'm thinking of making a wooden guide for my brace to help keep it plum.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


i bought one of the jigs to hold the drill straight. I drilled about 3 holes with it and chucked it under the bench. Stand on the bench and hole the drill straight. If you don't think you can drill it reasonably straight, stand up a couple of framing squares or speed squares as a guide. There is also a trick where you can use a mirror, but breaking a mirror is 7 years bad luck, so I didn't want to risk it.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Broken mirror. :^)


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


I feel good about being able to keep it reasonably straight. Don so you are saying absolute straightness is not needed? Within one or two degrees is cool?


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


one or two degrees is cool. 4 or 5 degrees will still work, but you'll start to notice. (by notice, you'll see it, but it will still work) 6 or 8 degrees will still work, but you'll wonder what you were drinking when you drilled them.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Don, HA! - thats what I say - Sunday mornings when I walk into the shop :^)


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


One more small step nearer. Fine work!
I cant wait to see you first project.


----------



## RGtools

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Brace and bit by eye. None of my dogs lean in bad ways. However, I will say this. It's tempting to start the hole in the standing position (for sighting) and then get on top of your bench to get over the work to finish the cut (for leverage)...don't do this…your hole will have a bend in it when you change positions that will make your dogs hard to push up and down.

One of my special moments, but should you end op with this problem a round file and some time will help you fix it.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Don you sound like you speak from experience. I would have to be drunk to be off 4 degrees. I did the holdfast holes by hand and they work fine. I didn't know if dogs needed to be straighter, your making me feel a lot more confident about doing it by hand.

Thanks Dave, the list of projects is backing up, I need to get it done.

Ryan, thanks for the tip but I never would have considered standing on the bench, I like to feal under the bench for the bit to poke out so I can finish the hole from the bottom to prevent blowout.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Man, that oak table has come a long, long way! Nice, Maur!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Smitty, hard to believe the guys was going to throw the tables away, he had a stack of them, I wish I would have had more room in the car.


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, great looking bench and very long screw!
you wrote :
"I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head. " 
Looking to you skechup picture I would have thought you would do the classical way, like this :








If "b" is greater than "a", you just lift up the deadman to take it out.

Kari Hultman (the village carpenter) has taken another approach. The (split) bench top is not glued and she lifts the slab to insert the deadman.

"I'm finding all sorts of benefits to having a removable split top. [...] Also, I only need to lift it about 5/8" in order to remove the sliding deadman."
http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.be/2012/04/roubo-almost-done.html


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Deadman, Cut Legs, Drill Screw and Holdfast Holes*
> 
> Hello again friends,
> 
> I'm made a lot more progress since my last post so I will break it up into a couple of posts.
> 
> These are pretty straight forward, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> *Deadman:* BrandonW gave me this piece of Jatoba when we first met, Thanks again Brandon! I decided to use it for my deadman. Here I'm using the Paul Sellers trick for a makeshift end vise, it works ok but I cant wait to have a wagon vise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very dense wood but it planes pretty nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the design I think I'm going with. I'm going to finish it after assembly, just wanted to pane it down to see what kind of dimensions I'm working with before routing the groove in the bench top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a 1" deep groove, 3/4" wide. I think I'm going to have the V" slider/rail either stop 6" short of the left leg for deadman removal or maybe a short rail piece I can screw in place and remove whenever I want to remove the deadman. I'm still working out the details in my head.
> Here I'm using my makeshift wooden block router edge guide, I have since purchased a Bosch edge guide which is a nice upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next, I cut the legs to length.* I was pretty nervous about this, since the back legs are splayed, I couldnt simple cut them to equal lengths. So what I did was shim the legs to have the front legs plum and the top level. And scribe a line from the floor with dividers. This was tricky because the garage floor is not level. So Once I took the bench apart I just went with the longest distance on each leg, A also erred on the side of making the front legs equal length, same on the back legs. Fortunately it worked out, after cutting them the bench was nice and level and the front legs plum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height worked out perfectly and there is now wobble at all in the base. I also love the height. I ended up at around 33.5". I literally could not get more height out the legs because of the back leg splay, it causes you to lose a lot of height. I'm 6'2" so it made me nervous to have it so low. But this is the height of Schwarz' bench and he is 2" taller than me which was reassuring.
> 
> The height works and is nice for planning, It really lets you get your weight over the plane, you just lean on it and it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next for the Holdfast holes:* I love these things! I've been using them a lot already, you'll see in future pictures how I've used them for making other bench components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then to drill out are the holes for the wooden screws *for the vise and parallel guide. The front legs were pretty straight forward, 1.5" for the screw (threads to be tapped later) and 2 1/8" for the parallel guide. It was slow going on my cheap little drill press, these are big holes.
> 
> But probably the hairiest part is the angled whole I need for clearance in the back leg. I marked off the location on both sides of the leg so I could meet in the middle as close as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two holes met in the middle, off by only about 1/8" which was easily chiseled smooth with a gouge and rasp.
> 
> This picture shows how the screw will pass through the back leg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *So here is where we leave off:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually that pic doesnt have the holdfast holes in the top but you get the idea.
> 
> I've finished my end caps and wagon vise. I'll post that blog when I get more time.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Sylvain. I was still working out the details in that sketch and I guess I didn't remove that space. I didn't want to rout into my bench any deeper than I needed to so I think I'm going to do what Boatman did. 









The only difference is that I may put in a little 6" piece of rail that I can screw down to fill that space.


----------



## mochoa

*End Caps and Wagon Vise*

Back again friends,

Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley. 









Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919

First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…









Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel. 

















I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78. 

















It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.

Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:








I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.


























It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary. 









Now to crosscut the ends:








The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp. 









The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:









Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:









Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:









Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps. 









Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile. 









I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here. 









Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!









Dog hole in the wagon block.









Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate 
with the washer. 









This little hard maple piece holds the screw level. 









*EDIT*
Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.









And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great. 









It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid. 









A nice 8" of clamping capacity!









Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.

Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.

Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.

Mauricio


----------



## ksSlim

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Looking good! Thanks for the pics/blog.


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Nice pics Mauricio. Digging the DC on the router setup. A fella could learn something about benches on this site.


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Looking good Mauricio. Wagons roll!!!


----------



## Boatman53

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


I like your wagon vise Mauricio. Thought about one on my bench but ended up just bolting on an old face vise I had. Perhaps the next bench. The last one was just a practice bench.


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


How many hours would you say you have in it so far? Inquiring minds want to know. 
The vise mounting was well done. You do great work and are not afraid to show your mistakes. That makes you honest.


----------



## bhog

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


More nice work man.The chamfer repair is pretty dang good.Following along on these bench builds is starting to really make me NEED a real bench.Maybe one day.Im such a cromagnon that anything I build will look aged within 6 months.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


*BIEN HECHO MAURICIO!!!!!
HABILIDAD EN LAS MANOS + INTELIGENCIA EN LA CABEZA ;-D
PUEDES HABER VISTO ÉSTOS VIDEOS CIEN VECES O TAL VEZ NUNCA, PERO EL AUTOR DEL WORKBENCH, DETALLA MUY BIEN, CÓMO INSTALÓ LA PRENSA-CARRO:*


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


*BIEN HECHO MAURICIO!!!!!
HABILIDAD EN LAS MANOS + INTELIGENCIA EN LA CABEZA ;-D
PUEDES HABER VISTO ÉSTOS VIDEOS CIEN VECES O TAL VEZ NUNCA, PERO EL AUTOR DEL WORKBENCH, DETALLA MUY BIEN, CÓMO INSTALÓ LA PRENSA-CARRO:*


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Nicely done, M. The wagon vise is pretty sweet, even though it's not a Benchcrafted. In hindsight I probably would have liked to have added on to my bench, although I do use the tail vise a bit.

Also, did you misspell "misspeled anyting" on purpose? LOL.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Slim

Shane, Thanks, the DC is just a fitting I bought to go on the router base. Not as convenient as a dedicated table but it worked out pretty good, its an mdf board sitting on two 8/4 pieces of oak.

Thanks Andy, its pretty sweet so far.

Jim, thanks, wow if that was your practice bench I cant even imagine how nice your next bench will be.

This wagon vise is Lefty Tighty, Righty Loosy but it will be cool once I get used to it.

Dave, Thanks. How long? We dont ask those kinds of questions Dave… Who knows, the first picture was taken back in January but I built a bookshelf in between, not to mention my wooden screw making detour. I dont know, I've given up trying to keep track of hours, a lot but at the same time It hasn't seemed like that long. I will miss working on it when its done.

Thanks Bhog, I'm not that careful either, I've already caught myself chopping into my bench, I'm used to working on OSB that I chop and drill into all the time.

KOVA, gracias y gracias por el enlace, si yo soy hincha de Carter y les he visto todos los videos. Es un poco distinto el proceso con el tornillo de madera. El que me dio la inspiración para esta fue PurpLev. PRENSA CARRO, gracias por traducirme WAGON VISE, no sabia como se llamaba en español. Saludos!

*KOVA, thanks and thanks nfor the link, yeas I'm a big fan of Carter and I've seen all his videos. The process with the wooden screw is a little different. Purplev was my main source of inspiration. CAR VISE, thanks for the translation of WAGON VISE, I didn't know what that was called in Spanish. Cheers!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Brandon, damn you! And thanks!
I wish I was clever enough to have misspelled that on purpose, My spelling is horrible I spell check everything in outlook but I missed those because I was in a hurry. Thanks for pointing that out!
Brandon and I were playing with the Benchcreafted hardware at Woodcraft last night at our Guild meeting. Mine is nowhere near as smooth as that but it will do. What do you have on there now? An iron facevise?


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


HA - I thought four sure he misspelled misspeled on porpoise two. I no I wood half.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


^LOL


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Great job Mauricio. The chamfer repair looks perfect. On the repair-end's (left end?), is that end cap in place with spline and glue only or is it bolted too?

It is wonderful watching this come together. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Tony. No its not glued on, it will just be held on with the spline and bolts but I haven't bolted it on yet so its just the spline holding it right now.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


I just added this picture to the blog. I thought it was kind of an important detail that would help anyone looking to do something similar. Thanks for watching.


----------



## Boatman53

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Anybody else not able to see the last two pictures posted?


----------



## Boatman53

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Now I see it. Is the screw supported by that little block of wood at the end?
Jim


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Glad you could see the pics, yeah that's it, its hard maple but time will tell how it holds up, its not doing much really.


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Very instructive blog.
Also some creative clamping ideas :

" a little makeshift extension for the F clamp. "


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Sylvain!


----------



## CartersWhittling

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


I like the way the wagon vise is built. For the price it sure beats a bench crafted wagon vise.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Carter, so far its Money!


----------



## danwolfgang

mochoa said:


> *End Caps and Wagon Vise*
> 
> Back again friends,
> 
> Ok, the next step is the make a wagon vise out of this screw I got from Lee Valley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to PurpLev for the inspiration on his blog:
> http://lumberjocks.com/PurpLev/blog/17919
> 
> First I jointed one side of the boards for the end caps then ran it through the thickens planner, etc…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next since the wood in the wagon vise recess had warped since being cut I had to trim some wood off using my #78, #92, and a chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even used the front bullnose portion of the 78.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It didnt work so well because the grain was running the wrong direction so ultimately it was mostly done by chisel.
> 
> Next to lay the nut into the Wagon Block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hacked at this all kinds of different ways. The forstner bit on the drill press was having a lot of trouble with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was a pain, I think next time I'll try the router bit in the drill press trick, just seems scary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to crosscut the ends:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The left side was tricky because the legs were in the way of me clamping down my circular saw guide. So I used my holdfast (a lot of holdfast action in these pics) and a little makeshift extension for the F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The saw didnt cut through all the way so I cleaned up the rest with chisel and block plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I needed to patch this little chamfer from when this wood was part of a table:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned out ok, I nearly matched the grain perfectly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rout the ends of the bench to take the spline that will mate with the end caps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my new router set up! Again the holdfast work great, so versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how the joint is subtly highlighted here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what you've all been waiting for, the WAGON VISE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dog hole in the wagon block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counter bore then drill for the bolt. I dont have a pic of the holes drilled in the underside, that was kind of a pain because i had to square one side of the hole to mate
> with the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This little hard maple piece holds the screw level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT*
> Here is a shot of the entire assembly from below. My hardware store didnt have stainless steel barrel nuts so I had to go with a whole I squared up on one side to receive a washer and nut. Its a pain to get the washer and nut on the bolt in this little 3/4" hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And Voila! We have a wagon vise. I dont have the row of dog holes yet but so far it seems to work great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also works great for working the end of a board. Holds rock solid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice 8" of clamping capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchcrafted eat your heart out. LOL, just kidding, its not nearly as nice but it works pretty damn good at a fraction of the cost.
> 
> Anyway, thats what I have for now, I've got you guys all caught up. Sorry for the hasty post if I misspelled anything or was unclear in any way. I'm open to question or comments.
> 
> Thanks for watching, it wouldnt be nearly as fun without people to share it with.
> 
> Mauricio


How has the maple held up at supporting the wagon vise screw? I'm curious if I can go this route, or if I should make some sort of guide rail.


----------



## mochoa

*2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*

Here is a short update of just my work last night.

Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one. 

















I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.

Drilled out for the second end Cap.









And here is where I'm at to date. 









Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.

I welcome any advice on that.

I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all. 









It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
Mill well back
Dovetail well back
Make and fit well board
Angle on rail for deadman
Make deadman
Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
Mill shelf boards. 
Blacken bolts?
Chop hole for planning stop?
Make wooden screw and tap leg
Make vise chop

Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
Drill for drawbore
Chamfer All Edges
Smooth all surface
Assemble Base

Final Prep for finish
Finish
Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts

-Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,

Mauricio


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


it looks great Mauricio.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


I feel like I would be too chicken to use brass dogs… I know myself, and I know I'd probably run a plane into one at some point, which would suck.

Bench looks great though, can't wait to see the tray on it


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Don.

Mos, i wouldnt think that brass would damage a plane much at all since its pretty soft. they also sell some aluminum ones that are much cheaper and should also be easy on tool steel.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


i use wooden dowels. Brass or Aluminum may not damage it, but it'll sure dull it. OK, and maybe I'm a little cheap as well, but the primary reason is the same as Mos.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


I think I'm just feeling a little fancy lately, I'm thinking they will looks sweet.

Don, how do you keep your boards from bowing upwards? Is it important that the dogs be placed as high as possible? Maybe thats what I'm missing, I need to lengthen the clamping face I cut into my dowel.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


yeah, it was more the having to sharpen for a while after hitting one that I'd be worried about. I dropped a chisel not too long ago (and I did NOT try to catch it this time) and it hit one of the cross bars on my workmate… that was an awesome hour of reinforcing the whole "make sure you leave it somewhere it won't fall off…" idea


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


True, True, I hate when that happens.

My fear of falling tools is why I'm all about the tool wells. My veritas saw fell of the back of my bench last night, banged up one of the horns, I'm so pissed off about that.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


I'm trying to be really careful with my LN dovetail saw too… I'd hate to bang that thing up. That's also why I was drawn to this bench design


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Looking great! I've been using wooden dowels as well-they seem to work fine, but I do like the bling factor of the brass.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Yeah you dont want to drop that saw, mine is probably not as special as that one but it still hurts.

Man, I'm going to be able to lay down pretty much any bench plane in this well and it will be out of the way, I'm so stoked about that.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


you got me on the bling factor. I don't usually cut a face, only when I'm worried about a possible indentation, and thats not typically an issue unless I'm using really soft wood.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Brandon. Are yours just friction fit to the hole?

Don, so that holds well enough even when planing accross the grain? Seems like the surface is so small.


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


The dowels fit in the holes tight enough to stay in place, but loose enough that I can move them most of the time without breaking out the channel locks. ;-)


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


across grain I need something on the edge, even with a face, unless the piece is wide enough for 2 dogs, or real easy to plane. My dogs are close enough for 2 dogs a lot.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


*most of the time* without breaking out the channel locks is a good statement.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


^lol, thats what I'm trying to avoid by buying some dogs.

Highland Woodworking also has the Aluminum dogs that are identical to the Veritas ones, those are $20, I thought they were cheaper for some reason. I'd rather pay $10 more for the brass.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/roundaluminumbenchdogspair.aspx

I should make some kind of stop that fits into the hold fast holes in the center of the bench, that would help for across the grain planning.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, that is a good question about bowing the work piece. My bench does the same currently. The dogs that using now are just rough cut pieces of poplar that don't fit well. The dog holes are cut at slight incline which with proper fit square dogs should pinch down on the work piece and prevent upward bowing.

The veritas dog have 2 degree tilt to the face for the same reason. Try to cut the same incline on the faces of your dowels and see if it helps.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Looks great Mauricio. You've made such a fine bench. Even though the bench is looking so complete that to-do list does not seem to be shrinking much. 

I am curious about the bowing issue too. Please let us know if the 2° on the face of the dogs resolves the issue.


----------



## bondogaposis

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


If you are bowing the wood in your wagon vise, you are applying too much pressure. Put some suede on the faces of the wooden dogs and that will increase the gripping power of the vise w/o having to over tighten it.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Tony, the devil is in the details as usual and I want to make sure I push through to the end and get it all done completely. I always leave that last little detail undone. Like my tool cabinet I never finished making the tool holders.

I'll play with the angle of the dogs and see what happens.

Bondo, with less pressure the dogs wont hold. I have some leather pieces, I'll try it out.


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


All I use is wood dowels, I am scared of the metal hitting that iron that I spent two hours getting it the way I wanted.
And I use paddle bits all the time, they are under rated.
She is trucking right along.
You seem to be well organized with the the planning.
I have a bad habit of just going at it.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


*QUEDÓ MUY LINDO EL WORKBENCH AMETRALLADO ;-)
Y QUÉ TAL ANDUVIERON LOS PERROS VERITAS QUE COMPRASTE????*


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Dave, how do your wooden dogs work for you? Can you plane across the grain without them slipping?

ja ja ja, gracias Kova, no los he comprado todavia, lo estaba pensando, por ahora sigo usando unos de madera.

Hahaha, thanks Kova, I havent bought them yet (bass dogs), I was thinking about it, for now I'll keep using the wooden ones.


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio I have mine so tight I have to move them with a mallet. I know its an extra step but they stay where I set them.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


I'll have to try really tight ones and see how they work.

I fixed the angle on my dog faces and made the faces taller so I can clamp towards the top of the board. It did bow the board in the right direction (down) but then the dogs were pushed up a bit by the ends of the board. Tighter dogs may help.

I can see why a lot of people poo poo end vises for planing. They can be tricky.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


http://timewarptoolworks.com/woodworkingtools/woodenbenchdogs/
ACÁ TENÉS UNOS MODELITOS DE BENCH DOGS EN MADERA ;-D


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Gracias por el enlace KOVA, wow, no se que es mas increíble, el echo que alguien este vendiendo esos dogs o que hay haya gente que los compra en ves de hacerlos ellos mismos.

Thanks for the Link KOVA, wow, I dont know whats more incredible, the fact that someone is selling those dogs or that there are people who actually buy them instead of making it themselves.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Ball catch from Rockler:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10576&site=ROCKLER


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


You said ball catcher.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Insert Bevis and Butthead laugh.


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *2nd End Cap and Dog Holes*
> 
> Here is a short update of just my work last night.
> 
> Laid out and drilled my row of dog holes 3" apart. Sorry, galoot index is Zero on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a ¾" spade bit to make the wholes. Let me just say that I think spade bits are underrated. If you don't need to make a flat bottom hole or drill overlapping holes I like them better than Forstner bits. The spade bit leaves a pretty clean entry whole and cut pretty fast with a lot less effort IMHO.
> 
> Drilled out for the second end Cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where I'm at to date.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some thoughts on the wagon vise. The vise clamps very strong, my only concern is that it does cause the wood to bow up off of the bench top which is not good for planning. Maybe I haven't figured out how to use it correctly or maybe my wooden dogs don't have the proper angle cut into their face. I'll have to experiment with the dogs to see how I can make the board bow downwards keeping it flat on the bench.
> 
> I welcome any advice on that.
> 
> I plan on getting a pair of pair the Veritas brass bench dogs. We'll see if that helps at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like I'm close to done but the to-do list is still pretty long:
> Mill well back
> Dovetail well back
> Make and fit well board
> Angle on rail for deadman
> Make deadman
> Attach shelf ledgers? Or just screw on?
> Mill shelf boards.
> Blacken bolts?
> Chop hole for planning stop?
> Make wooden screw and tap leg
> Make vise chop
> 
> Weigh parts (just curious about total weight)
> Make draw bore pin (just because I want one)
> Drill for drawbore
> Chamfer All Edges
> Smooth all surface
> Assemble Base
> 
> Final Prep for finish
> Finish
> Glue leather pads on, leg vise, wagon vise, holdfasts
> 
> -Thats all for now folks. Thanks for watching,
> 
> Mauricio


Hahahha, thanks for that Dave! Lol


----------



## mochoa

*The Deadman*

Hello LJ Buddies,

Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.

I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.









I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon. 









This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit. 









Laid out the design with a wax pencil. 









Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave. 









After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII









To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well. 









I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw. 









Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece. 









For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw. 









And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place. 









I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down. 









Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left. 









And here is where we leave off. 









Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.

As always thanks for watching!

Mauricio


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


*ESE HOMBRE MUERTO TIENE MUY BUENA VIDA MAURICIO JAJAJAJAJAJAJAJA
EXCELENTE TRABAJO ARTESANO-INGENIOSO ;-D*


----------



## NateMeadows

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


You are doing awesome work! I like the Jatoba, it provides a nice contrast!

Nate


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


what a great looking bench. Well done.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Nice Mauricio.

That is the jatoba that Brandon gave right?


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


I like the shape of the deadman! It's coming along nicely, M.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Kova, gracias harmano.

Deadman sounds really weird in Spanish. "Hombre Muerto" ha ha ha 

Thanks Nate and Scott, Yes, thanks again to BrandonW for the giving me this Jotoba! It's a beautiful piece of wood.

Don, Thank you sir!

Brandon, Since Scott took my idea for the Coves I had to do something different. ;-)

Just kidding, I wanted something subtle that would break up the blockyness of the roubo style. I think it worked out. Also, the space I have for the deadman is kind of small so I think this slim look makes it look taller than it actually is.


----------



## carguy460

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Great job Mauricio! The deadman looks awesome!


----------



## PurpLev

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


very nice work Mauricio. hmm… I still need to make one of those


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Getting closer… I was more excited to see your update blog than I was to see that my travel plane till made top 3 ;-)


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Purp! You like to stretch projects out I've noticed. Speaking of which, you've seen my wagon vise "a la PurLev" right? I wish I had your metal working skills, I'd put a wheel on mine too.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


A fine deadman, Sir! Well done!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Mos! And thank for the support. Congrats on making top 3!

I think I've only made it there once and it was on plane restorations so it wasn't even something I made. No wait my tool cabinet made it. 
I have a theory that if you post your project after midnight you'll have more time to get a lot of hits to make top 3. I'll have to try it next time.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Smitty, I credit your deadman for the mechanics of my design so thanks!








Thanks Smitty's deadman.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


That's a abstract only a benchmaker can love. 

I know you waivered at one time re: adding the deadman to your bench. It's always what you know vs. the hundreds of other ways to do the same task, but I wouldn't do without this simple bench appliance. I'm interested to hear how useful you find it in the everyday workings of your bench. Again, nice job.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Yeah, I remember you saying that you cant be totally cool if you dont have a deadman, so I said, I better put one on! he he.

A lot of the antique French benches I used for inspiration didnt have them. I'm sure I wont regret it though. Maybe they used one of those bench slaves for edge jointing long boards.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


I used my deadman just 15 minutes after completing it.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Scott, did you glue yours down? I'm not liking all the screw holes, I'm thinking of gluing it down and plugging the holes. Not on the little removable piece of course.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


I had a couple of my computer cases make it, when I first joined. I think each project is eligible for daily top 3 on a 24-hour basis, per when the project was posted. Mine will disappear in a little over an hour, since I posted it 22 hours ago. So I'm not sure if just after midnight matters or not.

I bet this bench makes it once it's done ;-)


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Beautiful job Mauricio. That is one gorgeous bench.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Tony!


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, I did sir. I glued the V track flush with the front of the stretcher.


----------



## GrandpaLen

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio,

Your new Bold and Beefy Bench seems to exude the challenge to be used. *'Bring It On' !!*

Very nice Fit and Finish.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Len


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Len, the great thing about it is that is already sturdy enough to use. I've been using it to complete the rest of the components.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Is it still dry fit Maur?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Yeah, I guess I'm at a point where I could assemble it now but I'm putting it off for now. at least until the tool well is finished.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Afraid of committment?


----------



## chrisstef

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Youre all over it now Mauricio …. looks like youll be fine tuning it in no time. Love the deadman.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Yeah, I always think I can assemble the base at anytime but I'm never sure if I will want to take it apart for some reason while making the tool tray or something.

Thanks Chris!


----------



## shipwright

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Just a beauty Mauricio. The craftsmanship is evident in every detail.

Great work !!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Paul, coming from you that is a real honor, thanks!


----------



## Boatman53

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Nice work Mauricio. You will find those splayed back legs very stable when pushing on the bench. I know I was surprised how ridged that portable bench I made with the splayed legs really was.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Boatman! Yes it is very stable so far, I think its going to work great.

Your portable bench is in my inspiration folder. It bears reposting in case anyone hasnt seen it.


----------



## RGtools

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


It never fails to amaze me how easy it is to cut yourself on freshly planed wood.

The deadman looks great. Makes me yearn to finish mine.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks RG, get on that, I'm already using mine, check it out.


----------



## RGtools

mochoa said:


> *The Deadman*
> 
> Hello LJ Buddies,
> 
> Here is my most recent progress. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
> 
> I previously milled the grove on the underside of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a rabet 3/4" in from the front and glued on a 3/4" tenon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was cut by hand. First had to perfect the fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Laid out the design with a wax pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bandsawed the curve then cleaned up with a spokeshave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the holes and cleaned the Jatoba with Acetone and glued on the tenon and bottom piece with TBIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To keep the tenon as long as possible and still be able to slip it into the groove I came with this idea, chamfering the back corner of the tenon. It works pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut one side of the V on the table saw but because the block on this end is not the same thickness as the other, the deadman wont sit flat to cut both sides so I cut the other side with a hand saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cleaned up the cut with my #92, it works well but it is a knuckle buster, I cut myself about 3 times on this step. Not on the plane of course but on the sharp edges of the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the rail I used my #5 and #7 to joint one face and edge of a board and then ripped it off on the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how it looks with the bottom rail temporarily in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the rail to make a little door for removing the deadman. Screwed them down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left a neat little gap at the top. Just trial and error, no logic on how much room I left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again to BrandonW for giving me the Jatoba. I've put it to good use.
> 
> As always thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Nice. Dual holdfasts are a beautiful thing.


----------



## mochoa

*The Tool Well*

Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.

Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!

THE WELL BACK:
Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible. 









Hit it with the heat gun









Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness









This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.

Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner









WELL JOINERY
Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile. 









I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake. 









I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes. 









Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it. 









Tails Cut









This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out. 









Worked out pretty well!









Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.

!WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!

Cutting the pins on he saw bench









Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.









This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching. 









THE WELL BOTTOM:
Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom









Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy









Rebating the bottom of the well bottom









The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.








I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.

I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later. 









And here is where we leave off. 
A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top. 








It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.









Another angle of the well









That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.

Thanks for watching!

Mauricio


----------



## PurpLev

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


looks great! nice work


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Dang that looks good! Look out for bhog… he might call you out on the hairy leg ;-)


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Purp!

Mos, thanks, I warned him in bold letters, if he looks its because he wanted to. ;-)


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


P.S. I realize my shop is a Pigsty, I actually spent a couple of hours reorganizing the shop and cleaning up. I need to post some pics on my Workshop page.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Very nice Mauricio. It is great to see that you are getting so much use out of your bench already.

Dovetails: Did the shallow rebate make a difference for you? Also regarding "chop & chip"; have you concluded which method of waste removal you prefer? The joints came out wonderfully, well done.

The rebate for the bottom of the well looks outstanding. Wasn't there a discussion about slots or holes in the well for the detritus (for Smitty) to be easily cleared?

Your bench is looking fantastic Mauricio.

p.s Seeing people in crocs hurts my soul a little bit.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Ah, very nice!~

Those leg shots are best left to PMs between you and bhog, though…


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Tony: Shallow rabbet, I think its Money, but not with this plane and not with this big DT's. It makes transferring your marks so easy for one, and it should give a nice tight clean looking joint on the inside of your box, or well.

Regarding Chop n Chip: I think its what your in the mood for. However, either way you have to chop through all that end grain, this saves you the step of coping saw'ing close the line first. Plus its fun.

Regarding Crocs: I only let my family and you guys see me in them. I don't leave the house with them. ;-)

Regarding Detritus: I know I was leaving something out. I think I figured out something pretty revolutionary to deal with that. I have to get some pics when I can and show yall what I'm thinking.

Smitty, haha, I know I was going to get flack for the hairy legs. I was thinking, when I saw Mos' hairy legs, that yall aint seen nothin' yet! And now you have…


----------



## jjw5858

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


This is great Mauricio, one hell of a nice bench to enjoy your work on for sure! Awesome blog, it takes time but really is going to be worth it. Have fun!

All the best,

Joe


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


*I was thinking, when I saw Mos' hairy legs, that yall aint seen nothin' yet!*
You've got a few years' head-start ;-)


----------



## terryR

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Looking nice, Mauricio! That's a ton of work to be proud of!!!


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Nice bench Mauricio. Are you leaving the gap between the bench top and the well so you can sweep the shaving onto the floor?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Joe!

Mos you calling me old you mutha f*cker! I'm Sorry then man, if it means that much to you then I conced the title of most hairyest legs.

Thanks Terry! Its taking much longer than I thought it would that's for sure, but its been a lot of fun.

Andy, that's exactly what I was thinking, there is about a 2in gap between the bench top and the well board, I was going to fill it but now I'm thinking of leaving it open for easy cleaning.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Well, I could have done without the harry leg clog shot, but everything else looks great. The shop looks like mine after I've cleaned up a bit.


----------



## blackcherry

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Really like the look of this bench it look very inviting to work on, man I can feel it from Chicago. It blog like this one who inspire the woodworking addiction, enjoy my friend I for one did as well…Blkcherry


----------



## chrisstef

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Hell yea mauricio. Your bench is lookin great bud. Youre puttin a lot of style into it for sure.

What youre not putting style into is your footwear.


----------



## shipwright

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Gonna be gorgeous Mauricio, just gorgeous.
I applaud your dedication and your blog is truly Excellent.


----------



## Boatman53

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Good looking bench Mauricio. The best part is using the bench to build the bench.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Dang, I was trying to find a google image search for something saying "don't be hating on my crocs" or something along those lines. Apparently there is no love for crocks on google.

I'll go barefoot next time a take a pic a la Smitty.

Thanks Don Yoda, sorry to ruin the woodworking porn with the hairy legs and clogs.

Thanks Chris, and thanks for letting a Bro know.

BlackC: Thanks, glad I could make you feel the wood love all the way to Chicago!

Shipwrite & Boatman: I have much respect for both of you real life woodworkers, your compliments mean a lot.

Boatman, you'll notice some similarities your bench in the way I put my end caps together. Thanks for the inspiration.

Ah, and Shipwrite, you inspired me to buy some Brown Liquid Hide Glue, I'm going to use it when putting together my dovetails.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Here is what I was talking about with the space I have in the tool well:









Here is the view of the gap from the bottom









Options:
1: Leave it all open, maybe add a cleat on the legs under the well board to support weight.
Pros: lots of easy clean out, I will be able to get a clamp in on the back of the bench top
Cons: My bottom shelf will get full of crap.
2: close off only the center and leave the ends open.
Pros: my shelf wont get littered and I will still be able to clean out the crumbs on the ends
Cons: I wont be able to clamp in that center area.
3: Close it all off
Pros: all dust contained
Cons: All dust contained, no clamping back there(however there may be room to close it off while leaving a little room for clamping), I will need to explore that one.

What do you guys think?


----------



## Boatman53

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Your welcome Mauricio, I like the thick back side to the tool well. I haven't done it yet but I intend to drill it for dog holes. It is very sturdy for clamping things vertical. I have another addition that will utilize that back rail but I have to finish the hauling season first.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Scott: here is how I plan on breaking in my bench once its done. Introducing Diego the destroyer!

















Ha Ha Ha, the tool well is already starting to accumulate crap!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Jim, you know I actually had a 4/4 board for that and when I got it home I'm like, this doesnt look right! I checked your bench pics and said, no thats what I need, so I went back and got a 8/4 board. Now the DT's look right.


----------



## Boatman53

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


I have an old Ulmia bench that is in very nice condition but the back of the tool well is only 4/4 so it is not very useful for anything but keeping the tools in the well.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio,

Dude (generic pronoun), I love your bench.

First, Is that a make shift router table you have clamped? If so, STRONG.

Your #78 is painted hammered bronze and I don't give a $hit what you say. It ain't black.

I am intrigued by Jim's idea to put dog holes in the back rail. With a little creativity a think you could really leverage that idea.

Diego the destroyer is precious. However, the rubber mallet ain't going to do crap. I look forward to see what you put in his hands, his command, for his delight that will really age that top. I don't have the frigging guts.

Re the tool well: I think #2 is a great choice. Put cleats on the legs for strength. Close the middle to keep your shelf clean and leave ends open for dust extraction. Have you thought of drilling or perforating the bottom with a series of, say, 1/2" holes to also let dust to fall through?

Finallly, 1/4 round will just look like your hiding something. Do you really need it?


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


One other question. What is the height relation between your table saw to the left and the bench? Will your bench function as an out feed table?


----------



## Boatman53

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


That gap could be very useful for clamping. I might lose a chisel through that gap however. Or anything rolly. As to the dust and chips problem. I have a vacuum that does that job. I thought about a hole etc, but all you are doing is dumping it on the floor to vacuum up later. I prefer it contained till I'm ready.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


 I prefer it contained till I'm ready.

Excuse the pun :^)


----------



## Boatman53

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Isn't it better that way?


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Well done Mauricio. I do like the angled legs, sort of sets it aparts. I am not disturbed by the legs…but the crocs kinda made me cringe : )

See rule #1191 above!

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Excellent work.
Great bench.
As Boatman said
I might lose a chisel through that gap however. Or anything rolly.
This will of course happen just when you try to grab this rolly tool and it will end up on the concrete, just what you wanted to avoid with a well.
Or you will search for hours a tool that is hiding there.
So what about a removable shutting board on the all length (a board with two dados where the legs are)

So you can open it to clamp or to clean and keep it closed the rest of the time.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Jim, I'm not sure how I would use the dogs on the apron but I'll keep it in mind in case the need ever occurs to me. Show us some pics when you get around to doing it. What is hauling season?

I just went through your bench build pics again by the way. Some good stuff there.
http://s1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/boatman53/workbench/

Dude (Scott): Thanks man! Yes, my router table right now is a piece of MDF with a hole in it. I had two pieces of 8/4 oak I just laid on the bench. The hold fasts hold the "router table" and one side of the fence! Ha ha. And I have a dust attachment for the fixed base. No substitute for a router table but it will do for now.

The 78 aint black for sure, its Craftsman Gray, the lighting form the crappy camera pone makes it look bronze. My wife is taking the nice Canon camera to the shop today to get fixed. Hopefully well have some better pictures for next time.

I need to put something more potent in Diego's hands for sure. We were working out a temper tantrum in that pic. I used it as an excuse to show him the new shop layout. 
I just need to be careful he doesn't put an eye out, this one is kind of athletic, I'm counting on him getting an athletic scholoarship so I need him with both eye's. ;-)

However, it will be broken in before its even finished. So far I have, chopped into it with chisels, drove about 5 brad nails into it, dribbled glue on it, and gouged the top pretty badly with a chisel. I'm just not a carful worker and I'm used to an OSB top where I don't give a $hit what happens to it. I think it will looks sweeter with some scars in it anyway.

Regarding the well Space: the well board actually extends 2" below the top, So I can put in a 1" filler strip on the end of that and still have a 1" space for getting a clamp in. I may leave at least one end open for sweeping out dust.

However: Boatman makes a good point. How hard is it to just blow out or vacuum up the waste, and it keeps your floor cleaner.

I think I do need the ¼ round, I don't think it will look bad, and there is a seam there that kind of needs to be hidden some way. 
Here is a pic: Not that bad I guess but not seamless.









And yes, it sits below the surface of my TS so it makes a great outfeed table! This bench is becoming the heart of my shop already. Big Smile ;-)

Shane: Thanks! The King Bed is next, I need to get this bench finished. The honey do list is getting long.

Sylvain, good point about having stuff hid in that little gap in the well. Hmm, a removable slip fit filler piece?. That's not a bad idea.


----------



## Boatman53

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Hi Mauricio hauling season is when we take the boats out of the water. For me that goes till about the third week in October. Plus booking the winter work. Once November gets here and the covers are on the boats the owners forget they even own a boat. If work isn't booked by then there won't be any till they take the covers off and realize there were a lot of things that could have been done over the winter. Once November arrives my deadlines go away, well not really they all have the same deadline…... spring. That's when I have more time to do shop projects.
As to the fit on the legs, I would not worry about it. It is below top height at the back so not really visible. Plus the bottom board of the tool well will be susceptible to seasonal movement. You may fit the 1/4 round now only to find just as visible a space around the molding.
Jim


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio,

Again, I agree with Jim. I just dont think 1/4 round is necessary. But I am not there and you will (obviously) do what you want.


----------



## RGtools

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Maricio,

What about a drop in insert for the gap in the toolwell? It would keep you tools from rolling out but you could still dust when needed.

The bench is looking great.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Jim, I'm kind of fascinated by the boatbuilding gig. Sounds like a nice living.

I was thinking that the ¼ round would be tacked to the legs so it would hide any wood movement of the 10" well board. I will set them in place and see how they look before commiting.

RG, I'm thinking about the drop in insert. It's a pretty good idea.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


*TE QUEDÓ ESPECTACULAR MAURICIO ;-)
CUANDO TENGAS QUE HACER OTRO DOVETAIL EN UN TIRANTE TAN LARGO, PUEDES
SUJETAR UNA TABLA DEL LARGO DEL WORKBENCH CON LOS DOS GANCHOS DE LAS PIERNAS
Y ANTES DE AJUSTAR LOS GANCHOS, COLOCAS EL TIRANTE PARADO Y AJUSTAS: ENTIENDES????
IMAGINA LA MISMA SITUACIÓN QUE EN LA FOTO TITULADA: "Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy" PERO ATRAPANDO UN TIRANTE PARADO SOBRE EL SUELO, AL QUE LE TIENES
QUE HACER UNOS CORTES EN SU PARTE SUPERIOR ;-)*


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Ya entendi Kova, gracias, lo intentare para la proxima.


----------



## CartersWhittling

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Your bench is coming along nicely. I can tell your bench is already coming in handy and it's not even finished! Holdfasts and old school benches are the way to go!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Tool Well*
> 
> Here is my latest progress. This blog is too damn long, I need to remember to do these more often and break them up. Sorry about that.
> 
> Mostly pictures though. Questions and Comments are welcome!
> 
> THE WELL BACK:
> Trying to "Steam Bend" the tool well back straight. Notice the dowle I used to get the clamp as far out of the way as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hit it with the heat gun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it straight enough to joint one side and run through the planner without losing too much thickness
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This process did work ok, unfortunately I didn't measure the before and after for a fair comparison.
> 
> Flattened one side of the well back with the scrub, #5, and #7 before running the other side through the planner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WELL JOINERY
> Grooving the end caps. I've got a #45 on the way for future grooves. For now I got creative with the bench and hold fasts. I love me some holdfasts! So versatile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried making a shallow rebate on the back on the Tails to make a tighter joint with the tails. The 78 wasn't the best tool for the job. as you can see the fence extends beyond the sole of the plane and is not held firmly letting it pivot despite the set screw. The knicker chewed up my base line. Oh well. We'll have to make a dust riser for that corner to hide the mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried using the 71 to true things up, it helped some but its going to be kind of ugly. I'm not too worried, after doing a few dovetails you'll realize there are lots of tricks for hiding your mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut the tails. I'm using the bench already for everything! I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tails Cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first time using the "Chop and Chip" method of waste clean out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked out pretty well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transferring the tails to the pin board was very challenging because the pin board is 6' long. I had to lay both pieces on their side which made alignment and marking tough. No pic of that.
> 
> !WARNING: HAIRY LEGS IN CROCS TO FOLLOW!
> 
> Cutting the pins on he saw bench
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of test fitting and testing to get them to fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side, the other side is looser and sloppier and will need some patching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE WELL BOTTOM:
> Smoothing the poplar board for my well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jointing an edge, the holdfasts and deadman already coming in quite handy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebating the bottom of the well bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 78 was set for a thick cut for speed and the 92 came in for fine tuning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont have a pic but I use axle keys I get cheap from ACE hardware to gauge the thickness of the tongue left from the rebate.
> 
> I fit the board in the well. Cut out recesses to fit around the legs. I'll be hiding the fit with some quarter round molding later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where we leave off.
> A #7 lays in there nicely and clear the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It almost clears the top sitting upright but not quite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another angle of the well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's it for now folks. Next I tackle the Wooden Screw (again) and the leg vise.
> 
> Thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Carter, I'm loving it so far, cant wait to finish it. I have dust collection for my router now and I'm going after the wooden screw again next. Most of my inspiration did come from antique benches, they just look so much more reasonable and just look right.


----------



## mochoa

*Wooden Screw - Another attempt*

It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…

Made a new jig








After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.








I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one. 


























Tapped the leg









Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit. 
I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….









Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity. 









Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest. 









Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!

I hope to have good news for you soon.

Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.

Mauricio


----------



## mojapitt

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Way more ambitious than my workbench projects


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


I know Monte, its a sickness really…


----------



## jap

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


i would have given up long ago, i'm impressed


----------



## ITnerd

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Hey Mauricio - good news is, you're not the first to have this problem. Bad news is, its hard to correct for the compounding errors that occur as the depth of your female threads increase, when using a router system.

Bill Rittner, a guy who makes some fantastic totes, wrote about it on his blog here. He had a challenge using the Beall Threader when the nuts got deeper than 2". (Man I hope Al doesn't read this post).

He goes on to use a modern screw box with satisfactory results, but is not happy with the limitation of woods that can be used. Depending on what you're using for the screw, you may be ok. Highland Hardware has these boxes in stock, up to 1.5" diameter.

They recommended if I was going to use a harder wood, that I let it soak in mineral oil for several days. They also have thier 25% off one day sale (if you have the coupon from thier mailing list) tomorrow. Jackpot.

Either way, best of luck getting your bench finished - its looking great sir!


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Good luck bro, way out of my league stuff here. Cool, but looks so difficult, credit is do for even trying to wrestle with this. Victory will be sweet.


----------



## alba

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, you are doing a great job

Your making something that would

only be made by a time served tradesman

after a few years of practice. You will get

it right. Thanks for sharing the learning process

warts and all.

Jamie


----------



## luv2learn

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, I get your frustration but I also sense your determination to resolve this problem. I also sense you aren't going to give up. Good for you!!


----------



## PurpLev

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


I guess I simply went the lazy road and got the metal screws :/ the way I figured it I will probably only make 2 screws for my bench, and didn't want to change the focus of the build from building a workbench to building wooden screws - and I supposed you can understand why 

that said, those wooden screws always look so much nicer, and have a deeper reach in many cases as you can build them to your specifications. good thing you are sticking to it, but I would seriously work on discovering why the difference between making the screw, and tapping the leg if you are using the same tap for both the leg and the jig. sounds like 1 of the spirals on the screw might have an imperfection that causes it to bind….


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Chris, I really appreciate that link, great to hear the perspective of a machinist on this subject. Interesting that he says that Maple always chipped with the thread box, that's what I'm using, however he gets good results at the end. The idea of soaking the screw in mineral oil intrigues me but I'm afraid of the screw swelling and being too tight in the jig.

I have thought about the one Highland sells. The 1.5" is a little small, at least visually. Although there is a guy in Scott Landis' workbench book that uses it for a leg vise and it works fine.

If he was able to get it to work in a 1" nut at 5tpi maybe I should bore out part of the nut on the back of the leg to make my nut 2"? It might work then.

PurpLev, thanks, its got to be a labor of love for me to go through all this. It's really just been a fascination of mine for a while to make these screws, not a time or money question. And hey if I get the process down I might sell a couple…

I do think it's a thread pitch issue because it gets tighter little by little.

Jap, Shane, Jamie, & L2L thanks for the encouragement, it means a lot.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


wrong thread


----------



## jjw5858

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Hey Mauricio, I mimic some great advice from Jamie. He is spot on. Making your own threads is a process like any other craft that takes a good few years and some real time to get this down completely. I have yet to try it but I really admire you taking this on. Like anything some people can rock this out in one try, but most everyone has to earn those painful frustrating tries at it so it works efficiently.

Don't let it get you down, you had the courage to try it and you have gained experience in your efforts. Keep at it and you will eventually get a creative solution.

The bench is a winner and take time to admire all of your hard work!

All the best my friend, keep sawing!

Joe


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


You will succeed and we will be amazed.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Joe!

Scott, thanks for the faith, and nice fro by the way. ;-)


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Who votes for boring out the back of the leg/nut? According to the article Nerd posted I may be pushing the limits of what this thing can do. if I do so and make the nut effectively 2" instead of 3.5" my screw may work. Worst case scenario I would have to bore out the whole thing and attaché a nut to the back of the leg.

What say you folks?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


I think I'll try making another screw with the old jig. If that doesnt work then I'll boar out the back of the legnut little by little.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Sounds like a solid plan.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


so, are you putting the screws to that bench project, or is that bench project putting the screws to you?

I'm in awe of the patients you guys have. I'd have beat something with one of those suckers by now.

Great Job, keep it up.


----------



## ITnerd

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


I think I'll try making another screw with the old jig. If that doesnt work then I'll boar out the back of the legnut little by little.

I think this is a perfect approach Mauricio. If the old jig doesn't deliver, 2" of threading is plenty enough to keep that thing solid for you & future generations of the Mauricio Clan.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


+2 on new screw, old jig. Then incremental boring.


----------



## CartersWhittling

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


You have really been faithful to making wooden screws. Great job! Perhaps I should finish my screw series soon.

I cannot give a definite answer to your problems. If the thread pitch is wrong my guess would be the router bit is too deep and with inconsistent presser feeding the dowel into the jig you can "stretch" the threads on the screw making the pitch different from the nut. I would also note, as you have probably noticed, sending a screw through the jig more than once usually messes it up.

If you send me some photos of your jig I might be able to help you out.

You are doing a great job on your bench so far! Keep it up.


----------



## gfadvm

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Man, that is WAY above my skill level but I really admire your efforts to date. I liked you plan in comment#15. Keep us posted as I have always wanted to do wooden screws/nuts but haven't committed to a method.


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Can you not place a small chisel in the nut and use it as a die to check the consistency of the threads on the screw?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Don, ha ha ha, a little bit of both. I want to be done with this screw but I'm in too deep to stop now.

Chris, 2" would give me 4 threads, should hold up ok. Speaking of the clan, I had my boys out there yesterday helping me turn the tap which was kind of cool.

CARTER, I blame you for feeding this addiction! Just kidding, I had it before you did your blog, you just facilitated it. Thanks for that description of the issue, makes perfect sense. I know you keep telling me about the cutter being too deep but I swear I have it set as shallow as I can. Part of my issue I figured out was that I'm using the plunge base on my router, and since my hands aren't on the handle it is coming up as I go and not staying fixed, In the past I didn't realize it and overcompensated by setting it deeper. I solved for that in the last go round but maybe I can set it to cut shallower than I think.

I'll send you some pics of the jig, I paid extra attention to detail on this one so maybe it is simply my cutting depth that is off. If I compare the pitch of the thread that worked vs. the one that didn't the difference is very little. I'll post a pic soon.

Thanks for your help man!

Thanks gfadvm, don't let my experience turn you off, others have been a lot more successful than me but I'm getting there.

Dave, I don't think that would work, it would just take more and more off of each thread till it's all jacked up. Thanks for watching!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Another important point to note here about the difference in hand work and power tool work. If I had cut this screw by hand like I started to, it would have taken me a while but it would have matched perfectly and I'd be done a long time ago. Again, using hand tools for one off's is often faster than power tools, in production work thats not true but in this case it is. I would like to make more than just one so I want to get this jig right.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Just another thought. If you do end up boring out the back of the leg AND you think the number of threads is insufficient, would you consider gluing another short auxillary nut on the back of the leg. That way you would have 2 nuts (if you don't already) in series.

The added nut will give you more threads to engage. The distance between them will increase the stability and decrease play.

Since they are both shorter the error in thread pitch should be more forgiving.


----------



## MarkSr

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, just wish I could get to your level of expertise. You will get it. Don't give up. How about a little distraction with what I am looking for?

I have a question for the you and the other pros out there.

I have been lucky enough to receive a good amount of boards of white oak, they range from 2" to 3-1/4" x 
1-1/2" x 30" to 37" long.

Project: 24" x 60" woodworking bench, with a 3" top, (2 pcs. of 3/4" plywood with 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" oak boards) butcher block style, maybe 2 or 4 pieces of walnut for some style.

Here is the Question:

Will I have any problems down the road if I build the top with the individual oak boards running the 24" way instead of the usual 60" long pieces. I have never seen a table built that way and I really don't want to end joint them, (remember the longest pieces of oak I have is only 37" long, and most are between 34" to 36"). Beside the dog holes ending up on a joint, (which I would not do) is there anything else that I would have to be concerned about????

I am just starting to get the frame work started and would really appreciate all the information (for or against) running the top boards the narrow way instead of the long way.

i will be patiently awaiting, because I value all you guys out there that have many years of experience and with that comes knowledge and that is why I am here, to learn.

Thanks,
Mark


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


I don't have any experience of cutting wooden screws, but I have cut metal screws on a lathe before. You only need to be slightly out for the thread to bind as any error is compounded over the length of the thread.

My first thought when reading this post was "Why doesn't he just counterbore the back of the leg, but then I thought you probably want to do it right. I think the first thing you need to establish is what exactly is going wrong. Why not cut 1/3 off the female piece (through the thread) so the male piece will still engage properly, then wind it in until it starts to bind. You will then be able to see what is happening between the male and female parts and take the right corrective action. If you don't know what the problem is, you will still be stumbling around in the dark hoping to get lucky next time.

To quote Apollo 13 "Let's work the problem people".


----------



## terryR

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, awesome fortitiude being displayed by yourself! A 'normal' woodworker would've given up long ago…

I like Carter's idea of stabilizing the router in the jig…no up and down movement…

AND when you DO get this working…I'd like two from beech.


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio,
it seems either the pitch of the thread of the screw or the pitch of the thread of the nut is not constant (or the two of them).
(I woulf think the screw, as you could engage more or less ten turns before being stuck.)
It is difficult to check the nut, but you could use a kind of comb to check the screw :









In metal bolt and nut; the nut's thickness is usally (0.8Xouter diameter of the screw). Studies show that nearly all of the stress is taken by the first 3 threads (this is due to the elastic deformation of both the screw and the nut). So there is no advantage to have ticker nuts. Of course wood is not metal and it is probably a bit different.

The ticker the nut the greater the chance to have a mismatch.
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/screw8.htm
(see picture at the bottom of the page)


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Looking at the picture here :
http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_71&products_id=181&zenid=5kvfq5kqkhv7uhpbcb2m7nlcv6
[you normally can zoom by typing simultaneously "ctrl " "+" in order to have a better precision]
the nut has a thickness of approximately 5 times the pitch; taking into account that the entry and exit turns are probably not complete, there must be about 4 effective working thread.

Your benh leg thickness is a bit more than 7 times the pitch, so it is probly safe to bore the back of the leg to reduce the "nut" tickness.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Scott, that's not a bad idea but I'd probably be better off boring part of the nut out, if it fails then add the nut to the back, if it doesn't then leave it alone.

Thanks Andy, I think I understand the problem. I think the link Chris posted explained it perfectly, it is very difficult for them to match in a very thick nut. The tolerances have to be extremely close or you're going to have problems. The below pictures should make very clear what is happening.

Terry, thanks, are you thinking of making a moxon vise or a twin screw bench vise. These 2" screws would be great for that. Let me get my bench finished and I may be able to help you out. You may even be able to send me the back piece of the vise to be tapped directly.

Sylvain, that is incredibly useful information you just posted. I don't have a comb like that as a gauge but I do have one test screw that fits and serves the same purpose, illustrated below. Also the first 3 thread idea is great, at 2" the nut would have 4 teeth so that would be adequate and, as the pictures below show would, will work perfectly. (0.8Xouter diameter of the screw) would be 2"x.8=1.6". The nut is the least of my worries in terms of strength, if you think about it its almost all end grain, that's not going to break. Any fail would be in the screw itself.

Ok see the below pics: 
Comparison of the screw that works vs. the one that is not working. you can see how the error compounds with many threads in contact. 









However, if we look at only matching 2" of thread. We are within our margin of error for TPI tolerances and get a good fit. 









Thanks for all your input guys, I haven't decided but I'm really leaning toward boring out the back of the nut and calling it a day.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


MarkSr, I would ask one of our boat builders (screen names: Shipwrite or Boatman53). They should be able to suggest a very strong joint for joining boards on end. You could stager the seams in a brick lay pattern. It should be pretty strong and any chopping you do is usually directly over one of the legs anyway so I think that would work.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for the link Sylvain, I think we just posted simultaneously. I think your right and the threads in the nut are the least of my worries in terms of strength since its mostly end grain.

I really like the style of McGuire's screws. I'm not that good at turning yet so I'll stick with the plain hub for now. I need to soak mine in linseed oil too like he does.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


*MAURIQUERIDO:
VOLVÉ A LAS RAÍCES JAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJA*
http://www.mimecanicapopular.com/verherr.php?n=484


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


just thinking aloud :
the humidity of the screw-jig's nut must be kept under control.
If between the time one cuts the thread of the screw-jig's nut and the time one uses it to cut the screw thread, it expands or shrinks, the screw-pitch will be respectivelly greater or shorter than the nut-cutting-jig's pitch.
Longitudinal expansion and shinking of the nut-cutting-jig would be much smaller (the master groove pitch).


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Gracias por el enlace Kova. Aquí se consiguen esas Machuelos y Terrajas y now son muy caras. El problema es el tamaño de 1.5". Yo se que dicen que el tamanio no importa pero no inspira mucho visualmente! ;-)

Thanks for the link Kova. We can get those tap and die sets here and they aren't very expensive. The problem is the 1.5" size. I know they say hat size doesn't matter but it doesn't inspire much visually! ;-)

Thanks Sylvain, thats a very good point. I used quartersawn white oak for my last jig. So the shape of the whole is not likely to deform but the TPI can change slightly. All the more reason to keep the nut at around 2" thick. I should store it in a plastic bag.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


*TE REFIERES AL TAMAÑO DEL TORNILLO O AL TAMAÑO DE OTRA COSA?



?

Click to expand...

JAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJA*


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


;-)


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Carter, did you put any finish on your screws? I'm thinking BLO and wax?


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


*PRIMERO ALGO QUE LO PROTEJA DE LA HUMEDAD COMO UN BARNÍZ
O ALGÚN IMPREGNANTE PARA MADERAS Y LUEGO CERA PARA PISOS TRANSPARENTE,
LO LUSTRAS CON UN PAÑO Y VAS A VER COMO CORRE ESA ROSCA ;-)*


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio,
I was reading older issue of your bench odissey : the #3
where you said about seating the tap's cutter:
"I laid out the mortise using the same pitch angle as the threads, drilled a couple of holes on the drill press and then chiseled out the waste."

Did you mean that the cutter is not perpendicular to the tap's dowell longidudinal axis?
This would mean that the nuts are not cut with the flange of the thread at 45° with regard to the longitudinal axis (unless you have taken this into account in grinding the cutter, which would imply calculating compoud angles). This would produce a "rake angle" as said for saws.

On the other side, the screw jig is made in such a way that (when well centered) the flange of the thread are at 45°.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Sylvain, I hear what your saying, and maybe I didn't explain it clearly enough but if the cutter was in line longitudinally with the tap/dowel then the profile of the cut would be less than the 90 degrees which I think is the same thing your saying. 
So you have to line it up perpendicular to the pitch of the thread so that the profile being cut is the full 90 degrees. Here is a pic that explains it. Please ignore the mess in the background!


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


For goodness sakes Man, clean up your bench.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


*EN ESE PALO DE LA FOTO ESTÁ LO QUE TE DIGO:
QUE SEA LARGO COMO EL ANCHO DEL WORKBENCH Y QUE
EL PALO TENGA LA ROSCA BUENA AL FINAL Y ENROSQUE AL 
FONDO DE LA CAMILLA DEL WORKBENCH Y NO AL FRENTE:
VA A AJUSTAR IGUAL PERO TU VAS A DOMINAR LA DISTANCIA DE
APRIETE DE LA LEG VISE ;-)*


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio,
I have looked once again to Carter's tutorial. You have used the same method as him.
I had misunderstood what angle it was about.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Kova, creo que entiendo lo que estas diciendo pero lo que no entiendo es cual seria la ventaja de hacerlo de esa forma?

Kova, I think I get what your saying but I'm not sure what the advantage would be in doing it that way?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


duplicate.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


*TU ROSCA BUENA ENTRA EN EL TORNILLO PERO ES CORTA LA ROSCA QUE ENGRANA
Y TIENES ESE CRÉDITO PARA APRETAR UNA PIEZA: 4 ROSCAS BUENAS 
PERO SI TRASLADAS LA TUERCA PARA ENROSCAR LA PUNTA DEL PALO, TIENES PARA 
APRETAR LA MEDIDA DE LA ROSCA SITUADA EN LA PUNTA DEL PALO + LA DISTANCIA 
QUE VOS GANES CORRIENDO LA TUERCA: TRASLADO LA TUERCA 50 CMS. HACIA ADENTRO,
TENGO 50 CMS MÁS PARA APRETAR: Y QUÉ LEY DICE QUE LA ROSCA DEBE DE ESTAR
DE ÉSTE LADO AL FRENTE DEL WORKBENCH?



?

Click to expand...

 SI VAS A SUJETAR IGUAL UNA PIEZA ;-)*


----------



## FreddyS

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Hi mauricio! Kova sounds right, if you get rid of the thread in the workbench leg and just add a nut on the back of the leg it could work, with the nut being 2" thick as that's what you can get away with. You would need to make the screw longer to compensate for the leg thickness though.

Good luck!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Freddy, if I read Kova right he is talking about moving the nut 50cms (about 20") back to the back leg. If I understand right, I'm not sure what the advantage is to that.

Kova, me vas a tener que dibujar lo que estás diciendo porque lo que estoy entendiendo no tiene mucho centido, seguro que tu idea esta buenísima pero no la estoy captando . Estas hablado de poner la tuerca en la pata de atras y hacer un tornillo mas largo? Gracias por tu apoyo hermano!

Kova, can you draw out what you are talking about. I'm sure your idea is great but its not making sense to me. Thanks!


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio












*SÍ YO PUDIERA HACER UNA ROSCA CORTA EN EL PALO, NO ME CONFORMARÍA
CON UNA LEG VISE CORTA ;-)*


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio











*
PONDRÍA LA ROSCA BUENA EN LA PUNTA DE UN PALO LARGO
Y INSTALARÍA DOS HEMBRAS O TUERCAS DE MADERA:
UNA EN LA PATA TRASERA Y LA OTRA ATORNILLADA EN EL REVERSO
DE LA TAPA DEL WORKBENCH ;-) *


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio











*
ENTONCES: "1" Y "2" SON ESAS TUERCAS CUADRADAS DE MADERA
QUE HICISTE DE MÁS Y AL IR LA ROSCA CORTA DE UNA TUERCA A LA OTRA
GANARÍAS LA DISTANCIA "AB" PARA PODER AJUSTAR PIEZAS MÁS ANCHAS
QUE LA ROSCA CORTA QUE TE SALIÓ *


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


*Y EN LA MANDÍBULA DE LA LEG VISE COMO EN LA PATA DELANTERA
VA UN AGUJERO SIN ROSCA ;-)*
*WOOD NUTS your spare ;-)*


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Ya entendí Kova, que bien dibujas hombre! Tu idea hace que no sea necesario enroscar el palo entero, solo la punta. No esta mala la idea pero muy complicado para mi. Significaría hacer un cilindro con dos diámetros distintos (las mias las estoy comprando ya listas de 2") y no se si la tuerca #2 aguantaría el jale del tornillo. Y también, las patas de atrás están en ángulo que también agrega complicación.

Creo que voy a seguir intentando el sistema de Carter. No ha sido fácil pero seguro que la pego pronto.

I got it now Kova, nice drawings! Your idea eliminates the need to thread the whole dowel, just the tip needs to be threaded. Its not a bad idea but I think its to complicated for me. It would mean turning a dowel with two different diameters (I buy mine pretty much ready to go at 2"), also I'm not sure if Nut #2 would withstand the pressure of the screw. Also, by back legs are slanted so that adds more complication.

I think I'm going to stick with Carter's method. I've got to get it right sooner or later…


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


http://www.ina.fr/economie-et-societe/education-et-enseignement/video/VDD10045545/la-fabrication-d-un-siege-a-l-ecole-boulle.fr.html








*MAURIQUERIDO:
EN ÉSTE VIDEO DEL AÑO EN EL QUE LOS PEDOS SE TIRABAN A MANO, VAS A VER, MÁS O MENOS POR LA
MITAD, UNA PRENSA QUE SIRVE PARA SUJETAR UNA PIEZA LARGA Y TRABAJAR EN LA PUNTA COMO VAS A VER 
QUE LO HACE EL ESTUDIANTE: TAMBIÉN FIJATE EN EL ROUTER QUE USAN AL FINAL (PELIGROSO), PERO SI QUERÉS HACERTE
UNA PRENSA DE ESAS, EN MADERA, TE ADJUNTO UN DIBUJO DE LO QUE YO INTERPRETÉ QUE ERA LA PRENSA ;-)*


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


http://www.ina.fr/economie-et-societe/education-et-enseignement/video/VDD10045545/la-fabrication-d-un-siege-a-l-ecole-boulle.fr.html


----------



## vivien

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


hey,i want to ask does cnc routers have market in your woodworking processing?


----------



## JGM0658

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, have you checked that the plate on your router is perfectly centered? I looked at the CartersW method and it seems to me that when you align the router on the jig with the cross hairs, if you are not perfectly centered, then your pitch would change. This would be similar to what happens when you use a dovetail jig and your router is not centered.

This is why it worked with the short screw but not with the long one, as you progress the error becomes greater. Think finger joints.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


Kova que Buenos esos videos! Gracias por el en enlace. Me encanto esa prensa y la serrucho que parecía cepillo que usaban para cortar los hombros?/shoulders de los tenons. Y que tal el Toupie(router) que utilizaban, que peligroso se ve esa machina!

Kova, great videos! Thanks for posting the link. I love that vise and that saw that looks like a plane that they used for cutting the tenon shoulders. How about that router they use, that machine looks dangerous.

Vivien, I think your right that there are CNC routers that can do it. I saw a manufacturer at the woodworking show displaying screws they made with CNC. I'm sure that would be a much bigger investment than I'm willing to make.

JGM, I agree with you about centering the router perfectly. The cross hairs on Carters router plate were set after he set the jig just right, through eyeballing it and running test pieces through the jig until it worked. That allows him to set it up faster next time. The trick is getting it set that one time. I've been chatting with Carter offline and it sounds like he and his friend have had a lot of the same frustrations I've had.

I'm thinking of making the screw a different way. One with less margin for error and I have more control over the pitch. I probably wont have time to try it until at least next week. Here is a picture that will give you an idea of what I'm thinking:








http://dblaney.wordpress.com/2011/07/10/a-simple-machine-to-make-large-diameter-wooden-screws-contd/

That rig looks complicated but its actually very simple, jut a long box with some perforated boards attached to the top. There is a lead screw that attaches to the blank and controls the feed rate/thread pitch. If I can make it so the same lead screw is used to cut the screw and the nut then it has to match perfectly.

I know, I know, you guys are thinking I'm crazy for going through all this trouble. But I like the challenge…

Stay tuned, and thanks for watching and your support.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screw - Another attempt*
> 
> It didnt turn out well, still licking my wounds. Here is briefly what happened…
> 
> Made a new jig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one test screw, I successfuly made one that had reasonable little chipping, I was happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually cut the hub off a reject screw and reused it on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped the leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the screw, but it binds up after a little bit.
> I kept tapping the threads deeper and deeper hoping it would fit but it wasn't the diameter of the hole, it was the thread pitch, and since the leg is pretty thick there are a lot of teeth that engage the nut so it has to be right on. I have no idea why this is happening… The same tap was used for the guide threads in the screw making jig, it should be exactly the same, but its not….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically one of the first practice screws I made with my first jig fit perfectly. I'd use it except I would need a 3" thick chop and it would only have a 4.5" clamping capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are all of my attempts laid out in chronological order. The closest ones are the oldest.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the first ones I made fit so I still have hope and one more screw blank!
> 
> I hope to have good news for you soon.
> 
> Thanks for watching and thanks for your support.
> 
> Mauricio


*ESTÁS LOCO PERO CÓMO NOS DIVERTIMOS TODOS JAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJA*


----------



## mochoa

*Wooden Screws - The Last Word*

Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.

New method picked up on this blog.

Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.

Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.

Some pics:
The "machine":









The coupler:









Where the action happens:









So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.

RESULTS:
Here is the good side of the screw:









And the rougher sides:









Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.

And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped? 
hallelujah!









I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise. 
I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.

Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.

Thanks for watching and for your support!

Mauricio


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Looking good Mauricio. All that patience is paying off. Mighty long screw you have there bud. What else is there to be completed on the bench now?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Shane. The screw has about 20" of threading which is about what the Lake Eerie screws have except that mine is 2" and not 2.5".

But I like 2" for a lot of reason. 
-I can buy the blank already made
-I don't need 6"x6" legs
-I'm sure it will work just fine
-And I can use it for other types of vises like a Moxon maybe

Workbench To-Do's:
Make the Leg Vise
Make the bottom shelf
Final smoothing
Assemble the base
Finish (maybe do before assembly?)

Not much to go now, but you know how that goes. It always seems like less than it actually is.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


So when do they ship? :-D

Looking good, glad you've gotten a process down that seems to work well. In the end, it looks like a much easier process than some of the other ways you've tried.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Mos! Once I eliminate the chatter I'll see about maybe selling a couple.


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


I really hope this works out for you. I know you have a lot of time and labor in it. It seems that you are determined to get this and I believe you will.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Dave, I think I'm calling it done at this point. There might be some minor tweaks but I'm calling it "worked out". ;-)


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Awesome Mauricio. You are to be congratulated for your tenacity.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Scott, thank you sir.


----------



## terryR

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


+1 on the awsome!
I KNEW you get it figured out!!!

That's quite some machine you've built there…


----------



## PurpLev

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Nice!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for the faith Terry, its actually was quite simple. All I had to do was make a bunch of pieces of wood with holes through them glue and nail them to a base. (not counting the lead screw and guide block) Once my Bench is nice and flat I wont even need the box beam, I'll just clamp it all to my bench. Then it will just be about 6 guide pieces that need to be stowed away.

Purp, thanks my man, and thanks for watching.


----------



## luv2learn

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Way to persevere Mauricio. Not only did you conquer you learned something in the process. Thanks for including all of us on your journey.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks L2L! I'm trying to grow up to be like you one day. By the way you havent made any wooden mancihnes lately, dont tell me your getting soft. ;-)


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


So with this machine… you could replicate the TPI on anything that you can use as the lead screw?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


If your talking about changing the TPI or reversing the pitch (wagon vise) then yes, I would just have to make a different lead screw.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Actually you have me thinking now. If I wanted to reverse the pitch I might just need to put the lead screw and guide block in there backwards. (I would just have to figure out a way to crank it)


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


That's what I thought. It looks like a very useful set up. Soon we'll see a shop picture, and you'll have the cabinet for all the hand tools, and then next to it will be 10-15 different lead screws…


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Great job Mauricio. You did it! There'll be no stopping you now.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


;-) they do look cool laying around the shop. I need an old wooden barrel like Smitty's. They would look pretty sweet in a barrel under one wing of my bench. Much better than my old arm and hammer detergent buckets. lol.

Andy, thanks for the support! Your right, nothing stopping me from finishing the bench now.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


see, when I start screwing around nothing ever comes of it. Nice Job.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


;-) Thanks Don. This has certainly been a very twisted tale…


----------



## mojapitt

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


That is a very impressive cut. Great job.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Woot! Congratulations Mauricio. You are a tenacious man.

Looks great too.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Monte & Tony!

Hey what do you guys think about hubs. My vise chop will be Walnut and since I'm adding a hub to my screw after the fact I can make it out of any wood I want. I'm not sure I will like a Maple hub contrasting against the Walnut chop. What do yall think about a walnut hub so it matches like Derek's? But then I'm not sure what to do about a garter, I want to add some subtle contrast.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Derek's screw is also 2" by the way.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Another dark wood on the walnut would be subtle, Sapele or some such?


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


I would like the maple, but I'd like it either way. Maple with a walnut handle to match would be good. Walnut with a maple (or ash) handle would be good.

I know, I know, I'm no help at all.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for the input guys, maybe maple wouldn't be that bad, with some oil and wax on it will be a little darker any way. The wifey says she likes the "checker board look"


----------



## SASmith

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Glad to see your success.
Thanks for the link.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Your bench is oak correct? Why nut an oak hub that contrasts with the walnut but matches the bench. That you achieve the contrast without introducing a third wood/color/texture. Kinda keep it simple.


----------



## CartersWhittling

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


I am glad to see the new jig works well. Whenever I have free time, haha, I will experiment with it myself. It sure seems to have a lot of advantages over the jig I used, besides size.

I am sure you are glad to continue onto other parts of your bench now. I look forward to seeing it finished.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Scott.

ScottyB, That's not a bad idea, I kind of like it. Let me see if I have some left over QSWO cutoff I can glue together for that.

Carter, thank you sir, go for it! I bet you'll figure out how to iron out the minor kinks for me. ;-) I think the issue is that the supports on the out feed side of the router are not holding the screw snuggly enough so the work is jumping around a little as its being cut… I will try to shim it up a little next time.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


*LO LOGRASTE GENIO ;-)
TE FELICITO ;-)
DEBERÍAS FABRICAR Y VENDER TORNILLOS DE MADERA
PARA PAGAR TODOS LOS PALOS QUE TIRASTE JAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAA*


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


hahaha Thanks Kova, I have destroyed a few dowels, I wouldn't mind selling a couple to recoup the cost, thought it wasn't much.

jajaja, Gracias Kova, si he destruido un poco de palos, no me caería mal vender algunos para recuperar un poco del costo aunque no era tanto.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio











*
CON TANTOS TORNILLOS DE MADERA QUE HICISTE, PODÉS
HACERTE UNA DE ÉSTAS ;-)*


----------



## FreddyS

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Hi Mauricio, nice to see you finally got it like you wanted, great!


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio






*NO SABÍA QUE HABÍAS HECHO UN VIDEO DE TU BANCO *


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Great video Kova, thanks for posting it. Its very similar to the antique bench that was my inspiration. The proportions of the leg vise are very different. I hope my bench looks this good in 200 years!

Buenisimo el video Kova, gracias por mostrármelo. Es muy parecido al banco antiguo que fue mi inspiración. Que rada las proporciones de la prensa. Espero que el mio se vea tan bien en 200 años!


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Wooden Screws - The Last Word*
> 
> Ok you are probably as tired of hearing about wooden screws as I am of trying to make them. This will be brief.
> 
> New method picked up on this blog.
> 
> Pretty self-explanatory. This method has much less room for error than my previous method.
> 
> Basically, a lead "screw" I laid out and cut by hand attached to my blank via a coupler I made. I made it octagonal so it looks like a nut. The lead screw uses the same "false nut" the tap uses to advance the whole thing at the proper rate.
> 
> Some pics:
> The "machine":
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coupler:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where the action happens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what's the verdict? These are the best results so far. Quite acceptable. I mangled my first blank but I made some adjustments cutting the second screw and it went a lot better. On one part of the second screw I cut it incrementally and I think that helped a lot. The ability to do so is one of the strengths of this jig.
> 
> RESULTS:
> Here is the good side of the screw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the rougher sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not horrible, I don't think. I can file and sand a lot of that out.
> 
> And here is the bottom line…. does it fit the leg I tapped?
> hallelujah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll run a couple more screws before moving on but I think I have what I need to make my vise.
> I'll make some more adjustments to see if I can't eliminate more of the chatter I'm getting.
> 
> Another great thing about this jig is I made it to fit the dowels I order online. All I have to do is drop a blank in and start cranking. After that I need to make and attach a hub that I'll turn.
> 
> Thanks for watching and for your support!
> 
> Mauricio


Beautiful bench for sure although it looks a bit pickled now with that thick, glossy coat of poly.


----------



## mochoa

*Leg Vise Part 1*

Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.

It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!

I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.

I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit. 









Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width. 









I like how it came out. 









My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…









Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic. 









Glued that up. 









Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p









Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub









Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole. 









And when we put both together?! Voila!








A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!

How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!









I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.

However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!

Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.

Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!

Merry Christmas,

Mauricio


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Maur, the whole leg vise holding power thing is crazy strong, as you're finding out. What a vise you've made! Simply outstanding, well done! Bench is looking awesome, and reeks of aesthetic beefiness. Some incredible projects are going to be all the more possible with that tool at the ready.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


That hub came out so nice Mauricio. Congrats on having a leg vise now, that is awesome. Always a pleasure to see your work.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


man that looks nice. Its got a massive appearance.

will be watching how you will be turning the bottom screw?


----------



## LukieB

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Wow Maur, it looks awesome. I'm also curious about the bottom screw?


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Nice work Mauricio. The hub came out excellent, and the leg vise looks great so far.

Have you figured out what you're going to do for the bottom nut yet? And are you going to try recessing it into the leg?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks guys for all your comments.

The lower screw wont turn, it will have a nut on it that you flick with your foot to adjust the chop so its parallel to the leg.

So instead of having to move a pin as with typical leg vises, you spin a nut with your foot. The other advantage to it is that its infinitely adjustable.

The problem is that because my screw is 2tpi, and I want a nut that has at least 3 threads in it for strength, that means I need a nut that is 1.5" thick. This is an issue when clamping thinner boards.

The Shaker bench in Landis' book has a 3/4" nut (4tpi screw), a difference of 3/4 is not an issue and that slight toe in actually works fine.

I'm thinking I will add a 1" "clamping pad to the top instead of trying to cut a recess or something to make room for the nut. I may double stick tape in on and try it out for a while before committing.


----------



## BTimmons

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


I think I understand the lower screw mechanism….maybe? I'm interested to see how it really works.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


I may have to make video once i get it working.


----------



## waho6o9

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


A foot flicker, pure genius once again.

Carry on.


----------



## jjw5858

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Fantastic Mauricio! Great work on this entire project and that leather is gonna make it even better. I use a strip of that on my shave horse so that's a really good idea and way to go for extra grip. Awesome journey, enjoy the bench, enjoy your holiday and all the best to you and yours! Have fun!

Joe


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Wahoo, but unfortunately I cant take credit for the idea. It doesnt seem very common in period benches, I hope I dont find out why the hard way. 

Joe, thanks, how did you stick your leather on? I read somewhere where someone used double stick carpet tape instead of cement. I thought it might be worth a try.


----------



## terryR

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Awesome! Love seeing it all come together…especially with the added aesthetical beefiness. That leg vise certainly looks powerful…


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


It looks great Mauricio. Thanks for sharing along the journey. Really looks like a build a man could be proud of.


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


That is looking sweet.
Nice job.
Cant wait to see it in action.


----------



## a1Jim

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Good work impressive.


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


My hat is off to you Mauricio. First off, I would never have known that the hub was two pieces of wood joined together if you hadn't told me and secondly, through sheer determination and the acquisition of new skills you now have an awesome leg vise. You're an example to us all not to give up if we mess up first time. The foot flicker probably wasn't common in period benches because they didn't have your thread cutting skills.


----------



## bhog

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Pretty sweet stuff Maur, I need to make a real bench.


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Congratulations Maur.

Merry Christmas all


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks guys.

Andy, thanks you sir, I'm hoping the hub and the screw stay as one after some use. I reinforced the joint with some oak dowels. I really appreciate your comments man.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


*ESE BANCO QUEDÓ MEDIEVAL MAURIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
FELÍZ NAVIDAD PARA VOS Y TUS SERES QUERIDOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOS*


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


*Y MUY BUENAS FOTOS LOCO!!!!!*


----------



## CartersWhittling

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


I'm glad to hear the vise is finally functional! Now your mind can rest for the holidays a little bit more knowing you don't have to worry about screws and nuts anymore!

Again, I look forward to seeing your work completed!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Kova, jajaja Gracias! Pues esa era la idea, que pareciera Medieval! ;-) Gracias, y feliz navidad para ustedes también!

Carter thanks man, your right, i got this done right before leaving town. I just couldnt have relaxed as well if I didnt get it done. Home stretch now man, cant wait to get it done!!!!!!


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio,

Concerning leather. I used spray adhesive on all my leather and it is peeling right off. Since most have recommended contact cement and Jameel on the Benchcrafted blog confirms this. I just don't want you to waste your time like I did.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 1*
> 
> Welcome back to my blog series folks. Thanks for following along on this long journey of mine.
> 
> It's hard to believe I started cutting up the parts for my top in January. It's taken me almost a year. However there were some detours taken along with way on other project. I'm in the home stretch now!
> 
> I needed a hub for the screw. One of the luxuries of making your own screws is that you can make the hub out of any wood you want. I went with some QSWO I had left from my stretchers. I think it makes a softer contrast than maple against the walnut chop I'll be using.
> 
> I'm pretty proud of the gain match on the glue up. It looks almost like one piece of wood.
> I went with a subtle concave along the length and sanded it up to 400 grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled a hole in the hub, turned the screw to fit, and glued it in. I use axle keys as set up block a lot, you can get them cheap at Ace hardware.
> These are 3/8", I used them to make sure I kept my garter groove at the right width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My walnut vise chop netted out to 1.75" thick after surfacing both faces. I thought that looked thin so…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resawed about another 1" off the rest of the board to laminate on to the board in the previous pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glued that up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we have the aesthetical beefiness! Or "gravity" if you prefer ScottyB. ;-p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after some cleanup we have this. I also trimmed the board to have the grain pattern of the wood centered. I drilled the hole for the screw in a knot so hopefully it will look like the grain flows around the hub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drilled a hole for the screw, inserted the screw and screwed it into the leg, marked out the location for the lower screw, then drilled that hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when we put both together?! Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A functioning leg vise! I'm stoked!
> 
> How does it hold you might ask? Like a Boss!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be gluing on some leather, for now I tested it with non-slip drawer liner. Here I'm testing out clampling a 3/4" board with a 1.5" "nut" in the parallel guide. I'm still working out the details of that part.
> 
> However with very little cranking the hold is amazingly strong. I can jump on this board and it doesn't budge!
> 
> Next up: Shaping the chop, Jatoba garter (thanks again BrandonW), and the nut for the parallel guide.
> 
> Thanks for watching and sharing in the joy folks!
> 
> Merry Christmas,
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for the heads up Scott. What about the idea of using double-sided carpet tape? I heard that somewhere to.


----------



## mochoa

*Leg Vise Part 2*

Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.

I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.

A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice. 









Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape. 









This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.

Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak. 









I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…

















Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.









Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.

I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:









And cut some bevels on it. 









The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.

You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.










Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it. 








Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well… 

The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.

Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.

I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.










Sawed out most of the waste.










Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.










The #4 worked out better. I just felt right. 


















This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. 









And here is the finished product. 









This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice! 









14.5"!









So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.

The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!

You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.

Thanks for following along!

Mauricio


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Awesome. Looking good Mauricio. You're so close!

What's left after this?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Mos! The lower shelf, and I'm half way through milling up those boards. I got a nice workout last night with the old wooden fore plane. And its true that having the lower bench lets you use your abs, I'm feeling them today! ;-)


----------



## terryR

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Just amazing! I love the leg vice as much as ScottyB's! Maybe even more considering all the effort I saw go into it.

Oh no, you didn't use a wood screw to install your vice handle, did ya?  I just did the same on a handle I turned, and was scolded by the LJ's that know better.  But, after looking at several online, it seems the easiest way…


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


I literally laughed out loud at that 14.5" ruler shot. I can't wait to see you planing a 14" x 14" x 6' post 

Seriously I love the leg vise. I can't believe the work you have into it.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Terry, Thanks!. And yes I did! I'm not sure how else I would do it? The first screw pulled out then I put a much longer and much courser drywall screw in and it has held up pretty nicely so far. I saw a LN bench at woodcraft that had a threaded insert set in, if this one pulls out I may have to do something like that. The LV handle was just screwed into the end so I figured I would give it a try.

Don, thanks, I know it's a little exaggerated/comical. It's the same length as a Lake Eerie screw but with that screw you lose so much length to the leg and the nut. since my leg and nut are one and the same I get a lot more reach. Ok, that may not have sounded right (easy fellas).

Maybe not a beam but it will come in handy for putting a full drawer or box in there for planing the edge. ;-)


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Mos, question for you on doing a shiplap. Not sure if you've done it yet with your 45 but you have thought it through already. Or anyone else who may have some insight.

If I want to do a ship lap with a bead should I do the bead first and then the rabbet so the fence has more bearing surface?


----------



## chrisstef

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Man that is one heck of a bench Maur. 14 1/2" of clamping goodness. Stef likey. Thanks for the mallet shout out and the photo op. Brightened my day.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Hell yeah Stef! Oh and I can confirm that the handle in that mallet is well secured. ;-)


----------



## chrisstef

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Go figure, something i built works as intended  First time for everything boys!


----------



## JGM0658

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


So you turn the bottom screw with your foot? That is a pretty clever solution for this kind of vise, much better than having to put a rod every time you move the vise.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Thats correct Jorge! Thanks for the comment. It works well now but I haven't even waxed that screw yet. It should turn like a top.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


If it were me, I would do the bead first and then cut the rabbet. I can look up in some of my books about the #45, and see what their suggestions are for something like that.

I'm going to ask, though… When you say shiplap with a bead, you're talking about bead behind rabbet, not next to, right?


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


I'm not sure it matters which you cut first, but I think I'd cut the rabbit first. I'd be afraid of messing the bead up cutting the rabbit, and that's the part that shows.


----------



## chrisstef

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


*since my leg and nut are one and the same I get a lot more reach.*

I cant let this go Maur, i just cant. Giving new meaning to "they see me rollin". You would roll in circles just pivoting around, gettin no where fast.


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Nice, Mauricio. You have been an excellent steward of that jatoba. Your leg vise is now everyone's envy!

Stef--lol.


----------



## TheJBitt

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


You may have answered this in a previous post (I'm arriving a little late to the party), but why did you angle the legs opposite of the vise?


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


The width of the bench top is narrower than something like a split top Roubo bench (not including the tool well on his). The splayed (angled) legs are to help give it a wider footprint for stability reasons. It's this opposed to mounting the legs to the (weaker) tool well. For his bench, it's probably not as big of an impact, since it's quite heavy, but I'm building one that's similar to his, but only 4' long and the top is only 10" wide. It matters more to the stability in mine.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


This is what I was thinking. If I'm using the #45 I think I need to do the bead first… Otherwise the fence wont have much to ride on. I'm thinking of cheating and doing the rabbet on the TS. I need to get this thing done!









Stef, LOL. I'm glad you didn't let it slide. You got to like that layup.

Thanks Brandon, and thanks again for the Jatoba, I have one more project to come that will include some glued up Jatoba cut offs. LOL.

Jbitt, the splayed legs help when you are doing heavy across the grain planing. It transfers the force into the ground very nicely. Especially since this is not a massive bench. Ah, I see Mos responded, that too.


----------



## chrisstef

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Man im still laughing about what you wrote "leg and nut all one". I got a really strange visual. 
I do think, as blasphemous as it may be, that the TS is the way to go on the rabbet Maur. Or the router table.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


That's why I would do the bead first too. Because I would think it'd be easier to have the larger bearing surface on the fence, as you suggest.


----------



## BTimmons

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


I'm getting leg vise lust again.


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Looks like all that screwing you did is paying off. Well done sir.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


That vise screw reminds me of my mallet…


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Get you one BT!

Shane & Smitty… ;-)

Ok the beads and rabbets just got done. Beads first. Rabbets with two cuts on the TS. 
Beading is not the smoothest operation on the 45. Maybe I'm just not used to using it yet, it's the first time I use it on a project. But it was more fun than using a router that's for sure.

The TS was good but as usual my cuts were a little off. Left the bead a little too undercut, hopefully the wont break off, time will tell.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


wait, what are you shiplap-ing? I thought you were going to leave gaps between boards on the bottom shelf, if that's what they're for.

Good to hear it worked out, hopefully lol


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Man u got the prettiest leg I have seen for a guy.
That jatoba is some hard stuff. I made a plane bottom with it and rasping the mouth took forever. The bushing you made will never wear out.
Great progress.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


*EXCELENTE TRABAJO DE FINA EBANISTERÍA LOCO!!!!!!
ME PREGUNTABA SI TE GUSTARÍA AGREGARLE UNA TABLA EN CRUZ ARRIBA
CON EL OBJETO DE PODER PRENSAR MADERAS MÁS LARGAS?



?

Click to expand...

?*


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Love that round-over, very nice touch, and well executed too. Beauty!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


Mos, I gave up on that idea. I don't think I would have liked how it looked.

Thanks Dave, you know I get compliments on my legs all the time. 









Thanks Smitty! I wasn't sure about it. I was thinking of tapering it slightly towards the bottom. But I asked the wife and she says she likes it chunky ;-). So I think I'm going to leave it like that.

Kova, thanks for your comments man! I like your idea but I'm just not sure it's necessary. I think I can clamp a board of any with the vise as it is. Also having a vise that wide would cause a lot of wracking which might put too much strain on the Wooden Screw

Kova, gracias por su comentario hombre! Me gusta su idea pero no estoy convencido que sea necesario. Me parece que puedo sujetar una tabla de cualquier tamaño con la prensa como esta. También temo que tener unas mandíbulas (¿) tan anchas me pudieran torcer mucho el tornillo de madera.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Leg Vise Part 2*
> 
> Welcome back folks. Progress has been slow but steady. I'm in the home stretch now.
> 
> I need to finish up this leg vise, then the lower shelf and I'll be ready for final assembly.
> 
> A while back BrandonW gave me a Jatoba board. Its the same stuff I'm using on my deadman. Its beautiful dense wood and I've been milking every last scrap of it. I used the below scrap as my garter even though it is the checked end of the board. I ended up having to use a lot of superglue in the cracks to hold it together. But I think it's going to be worth it. It really looks nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the final result after laying out and cutting it to shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This wood is a lot redder than it appears in the pics. I'll be sure to take some better pics for the final reveal.
> 
> Then I needed a handle for the vise. I had a piece of hickory firewood that worked perfectly for this. I am introducing yet another wood species here but I think it blends well with the oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to match the style of my lee valley screw handle that I will be using for the wagon vise. Close enough…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I needed a nut for the screw I'm using as my parallel guide. I made the nut 1.5" thick so that it would engage at least 3 threads on the screw. This is one of the disadvantages to the screw I'm using (2tpi). The nut on the Shaker bench in Scott Landis' book is only 3/4" but its on a screw that is smaller with a higher TPI. Also a nut that is 3/4" does not affect the vise closing down to zero. Mine does.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my solution to overcoming part of that problem. You'll notice that the picture above has a lot of guide lines for the bevel cuts I decided to make.
> 
> I pulled out my home made tenon jig which is just an LVL block with a cleat screwed to it, works great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut some bevels on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The advantage to this is that it keeps my threads intact while thinning the outside. This allows the leg vise to wrack a little more without the nut getting so much in the way.
> 
> You'll see in a minute that the vise still does not close up all the way but I can very effectively clamp a 1/4 board (more like 3/16") without it budging.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a pic with a 1/4" piece of plywood clamped in the vise with the leather I'm planning on using. The leather is about an 1/8" thick so that helps. I can move the bench before the piece will move. So I'm thinking I will leave the vise as is even though it doesn't close up all the way. It bugs me a little but I can live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, that pic is a little out of order and gives away part of the ending. Oh well…
> 
> The other option was to cut a recess in the vise chop to make room for the nut but I think I will hold off on that.
> 
> Now to shape the chop. I had planned to make it similar to the Shaker vise chop but I decided to keep it as beefy as possible. The walnut was so beautiful that I wanted to keep as much of it as I could. So I decided to just do a round over at the top and leave the rest along.
> 
> I did the layout with a French curve and a white wax pencil. I tried a couple of variations but finally went with the outside line for a more robust round over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out most of the waste.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gave the new #62 a spin. I'm still getting used to this tool so I'll reserve judgment. I just didn't feel comfortable maneuvering it during this application.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 worked out better. I just felt right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like with Mineral Spirits on it! I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the finished product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older picture but you can see that the capacity is pretty nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 14.5"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the leg vise is pretty much done. I have some UHMW tape I want to put in the hole of the parallel guide to make it run smoother and keep it from getting bumped around so much it passes through the leg.
> 
> The clamping power of this vise is amazing. I put Christef's Mallet in the vise with the leather and I'm not exaggerating when I say I can move the entire bench by moving the handle and the mallet doesn't budge at all!
> 
> You'll see in the next blog I am using the leg vise a lot for edge jointing shelf boards.
> 
> Thanks for following along!
> 
> Mauricio


So very nice Mauricio. That vise looks awesome. You are doing such a great job with your bench.

To the next installment i go!


----------



## mochoa

*The Shelf*

I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.

I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.

So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5. 









I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.

A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint. 









This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment. 









After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!

But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4

I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.

I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory. 









Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!









I ran all the beads on one edge of each board. 









Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!









This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.

Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.

And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........

Voila!

























From the back:









I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.

I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers

So the bench is practically done. 
Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
Tweak a few minor details
Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it. 
Flatten the top again
Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
Glue on leather pads on both vises.

Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.

Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!

Mauricio


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Looks amazing. I like the picture of the bench with all the stuff on it and shavings on the floor. That is what mine always looks like…no room for work because of all the stuff. I need a bench for stuff, and a bench for work…or maybe just better organization?

Great build.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


LOL, thanks! I should have cleared it off before the pics. I did clear it off afterwards but I just couldnt wait to take the pics. I gess I have to leave something for the imagination for the final reveal. Hey but now I have the bench on the wall for all the crap and the new bench for the actual work.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Spectacular Mauricio. I have loved watching you bring this bench into being. You are a tenacious fellow and a hell of a craftsman. Thanks sharing it with us.


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Great progress. You're so close. You really upped the game with those beaded ship-laps. My bench is always a mess, unfortunately. My garage is also a hot mess.


----------



## ksSlim

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Hell of a nice job.
Your craftsmanship is not too shabby for an advanced apprentice.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Push it all into the tool tray! It's looking really great..

Also, the bead on the joint helps to hide the joint, in that the line between boards is then more hidden by being at the edge of the bead instead of by itself.

I should post it in the workbench thread instead of here, but I'm already typing here…
I was thinking the other day about the Veritas/Lee Valley inset vise. I'd have to deepen the recesses for that every time I flattened the bench… which would involve taking it out, etc etc… annoying


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


You're making such a great job of that bench Mauricio. I've always loved boards with a beaded edge and that is a great place to add that detail. I'm really excited to see it with the finish on. It is going ot look fabulous.


----------



## terryR

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Awesome, Mauricio! Every little detail is pleasing to the eye. What a nice tool you've built…a bench to be quite proud of, IMO! That beaded ship lap shelf is the bee's knee's!


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


its such a unique bench. Super job. The first picture is definitely calendar material.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Excellent Mauricio! Love it. What is going to be fun is watching the grain of that chop come alive and contrast with the rest of the bench with that first swipe of finish.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Tony, Brandon, Don & Slim.

Mos, thanks, but the tool tray is already full! LOL. Your right that's just another good reason for the bead.

Brit, I actually never liked "bead board" before, but then I've only ever seen the fake stuff at the hardware store. Understanding the purpose for the decoration has made me appreciate it more.

Thanks Trerry, I guess the trick is adding little details without overdoing it. Hopefully I've done that.

Scott, thanks, I agree. The round over on the chop created a pretty neat domed grain pattern at the top. Also the grain kind of flows around the screw hub. Also I can't wait to see how the quarter sawn top pops!

Thanks again for all the comments guys and for following along. It's been great to be able to share it with fellow bench lovers.

And I look forward to seeing all the benches you guys are in the process of building.

I'll take some pics of the bench cleared off. I cant stop opening the garage door and looking at it. ;-)


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Here are some way better pictures using my wife's Nikon. What a difference! I'm sorry that I've been torturing you guys with all those crappy blackberry pictures.

Here it is with the top cleared off. 









And a couple of low light pics of the shelves. I was trying to pop the beads a little with the shadows.


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Very nice. It will hold up just fine. 
High on the galoot scale.
Have you named your bench yet?


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


looks great!


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


*HERMOSO LOCO!!!!! QUEDÓ DE PELÍCULA!!!!!
NO TE OLVIDES, EN DÓNDE CORRE EL MUERTO, PUEDES PONER
CERA PARA PISOS INCOLORA Y LUEGO FROTAR CON UN PAÑO!!!!!
ESE HOMBRE MUERTO VA A CORRER COMO EN LA F1 JAJAJAJAJAJAJA*


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Looking mighty nice. I really like the alternating widths. Keep using your wife's camera, and toss that Blackberry in Lake Lanier.


----------



## waho6o9

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Beautiful work Mauricio and congratulations on a fine build!


----------



## jjw5858

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Look's awesome Mauricio! The finish is gonna make a great finale. Enjoy it!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks fellas!

Dave, I havent though of giving it a name? Might have to think of something French. Or maybe Cajun French since I'm from New Orleans. How about Boudreaux? I dont know, him and Thibodeaux are always the butt of all the jokes.

Gracias Kova, nunca me olvidad de frotarlo. 

Thanks Brandon, I need to send it somewhere. I need to see if the IT guys will send me a new one. I need to do some more damage to it first.


----------



## LeChuck

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Hey Mauricio, I'm wondering, how did you attach the shelf boards to the bench (shelf supports)? Or did you just let them float? I'm thinking about putting a shelf on mine. I was holding out because I really wanted a cabinet, but I think I have other things to get to first before I tackle that and a shelf would be nice in the meantime, so I can put my miter box down there and a few other things (would be a nice storage space for a moxon vise or something like that).

I don't want the shelf boards to jiggle or jump around if I bang on the bench, but I'm also opposed to screwing them down…


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


Mine floats and I put them even with the top of the stretchers just in case I ever decide to add a cabinet but I'm not planning on it at this point. I'm thinking about that space as temporary storage with the idea of keeping the top clear.

I wouldn't say they jump around but I do think they create some noise when I chop on the bench. The Schwarz approved method is to use cut nails (one in each board). I think I would do that if I ever got some nice ones.


----------



## LeChuck

mochoa said:


> *The Shelf*
> 
> I'm surprised at how much progress I've made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf.
> 
> I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I'm done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build.
> 
> So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these boards flat enough on one side to run through the thickness planer. But before that I scrubbed the other side to remove the dirty exterior to save the planet knives from the wear.
> 
> A couple of the boards were kind of narrow so I edge jointed them two at a time while they were still in their rough state. I put a slight hollow in them which made for a nice spring joint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first time trying this technique. It worked great! The joints were so good that all I needed was one clamp in the center. I also used a couple of spring clamps on the ends to help with alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all the boards were flattened and run through the planner I jointed one edge with the #7 and made the other edge parrallel on the Table Saw. Now for some fun with the old Stanley #45!
> 
> But before that I removed the the machine marks with the #4
> 
> I wanted to do a beaded shiplap on the boards, because The Schwarz did it , but also because it made sense to allow for expansion and contraction while adding a little style. I also like the fact that the bead does have a practical purpose. It rounds over the edge which makes it stronger, otherwise the edge would eventually chip and you would see it any way. So instead of hiding it, accentuate it and add a decorative detail.
> 
> I tested it out first on some scrap. This is my first time
> trying out the #45. It worked fine, it took some fettling to get the depth of cut just right. But the results were satisfactory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the real thing. I don't have the wagon vise installed yet and the dogs are not quite close enough to the edge but that didn't stop me at all. There are so many ways to secure work on this bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ran all the beads on one edge of each board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then cut rabbets with two cuts on the TS for the other edge. Funny how you tend to forget to use your brain when you run boards through machines. At least I do. You can see in this pic that I ran the wrong face along the fence on many of these boards which undercut the bead a little too much. Oh well, hope they hold up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This morning I cut, aligned, and screwed on the cleats for the shelf. No pics of this boring process. The only tricky part was putting a 15 degree angle on the back cleats. I just laid it out and planed them down to the line with my #5. It was a very quick process.
> 
> Then I shot the front edge of each board with the new #62, still with the factory edge on it. I haven't stopped to sharpen yet but it still slices end grain like a champ. Then on the back end of the board I cut a 15 degree angle so it would match the back stretcher and legs. Sorry no pics of this.
> 
> And the result!!!??? Drum roll please!!!........
> 
> Voila!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like how it came out. I'm glad I didn't skimp on this part of the bench or procrastinate and leave it for later. I really think it completes the bench.
> 
> I had planned on putting the shelf at the bottom of the stretcher the way Roy Underhill and Schwarz did. But I don't plan on putting a lid on it to make it a tool chest. At this point I just want an open shelf. And if I ever do decide to put a low cabinet down there then the shelf is already good to go flush with the top of the stretchers
> 
> So the bench is practically done.
> Next I will take it apart, smooth all surfaces
> Tweak a few minor details
> Then I will drill for the drawbore pegs
> I want to make a drawbore pin, I know I don't really need it, but I just want to. And I already bought all the parts for it.
> Flatten the top again
> Apply the Oil/Varnish blend
> Glue on leather pads on both vises.
> 
> Martin Luther King day on Monday which means no work, so hopefully I get some more shop time in this weekend.
> 
> Thanks it for now folks, thanks for watching!
> 
> Mauricio


I want to see if there's a good way to do it without metal fasteners, or I might as well grab the nail gun and use that…

I like the idea of temporary storage as well, parts from a current build, clamped stuff gluing up etc…


----------



## mochoa

*Drawbore Assembly*

Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.

I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.

The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.

This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.

I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins. 

















So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges. 









Then drill out the holes in the mortises. 









Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye. 

















When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight. 









So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset. 

















Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.

I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits. 









The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders. 









Next I cut some oak pegs. 









Then whittled a point on the end of each. 









So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.

I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.

I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.

And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one! 








Went in perfectly!

I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.










But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL. 









Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke

Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.

So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it. 

















It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!

Next up:
Flatten the top again
Chamfer dog holes
Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
Final small details (removing dents and such) 
Apply finish

So I'm almost done!

Comments and questions are always welcome.

Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!

Mauricio


----------



## blackcherry

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Does the phrase labor of love fall into this project, this turn out great with your spot on craftsman ship well done!


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Wow, I can't believe you broke that dowel. You're gonna have to scrap the whole project now. If only you had rived your wood and made the dowels from a dowel plate. ;-)

Looks great, Mauricio. I think you'll have quite a bench to take pride in.


----------



## stefang

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Looks really good Mauricio.


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Really nice Mauricio. This is an inspirational piece. Between all these benches and tool cabinets I am seeing pop up on blogs and in projects, it puts a lot of pressure on a fella to get off the porch and run with the big dogs. Well done.


----------



## affyx

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


that is a great,solid looking bench! thanks for the info on the drawbores, i'm about to drawbore mine (in the next weekend or so) and was wondering if 1/16" was enough


----------



## SASmith

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Great bench.
Thanks for sharing the progress pics.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks BC, definitely a labor a love I've been working on it for about a year and while I'm happy to almost be done I think I'll miss the bench building journey.

Your right Brandon, I think I'll get rid of it. You want it. Come get it….. Syke…

Thanks Stefang!

Shane, you have way more skills than me man, go make you one. It will probably only take you a week. 

Thanks John, I tried to do 1/16" but I found it to be too close to the first hole I poked with my auger bit. That's what happened when I had that one tenon that wasn't closing up. There was not enough offset to pull it tight. I had better luck with about 3/32 - 1/8". Just play with it and see what works for you. And be sure to rub those pegs on a candle, that's what I did and it worked great.


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Yippee! Another convert to drawboring. Looking good Mauricio.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Smith!

Thanks Andy, yes sir, no glue or anything, I'm a convert. Cant wait to try it on furniture projects.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Yes!!! Nice work Mauricio.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


So much awesome going on there Mauricio. Hope mine comes even half as good as yours does. I'd be happy with it.

Why not leave the battle scars in? I mean… it's gonna happen sooner or later, right? ;-)


----------



## LukieB

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Looking good Maur…. like really good. I really like the drawboring, gonna have to try that


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, I'd never have considered building a bench like this but I really love it. I'm still unsure how I'd like a bench with flush legs ( no overhang) but it looks great. You'll enjoy it a long time. Thanks for sharing the journey.


----------



## jjw5858

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Great stuff, I too agree those draw bores will hold more than fine. Great looking bench my friend, you will always remember making it and look back when your older and smile. Awesome!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Outstanding bench with near-flawless execution. Wow.

From the finished surfaces to the screws to the splayed leg design, you've done amazing work on this bench. You've built a shop partner that will last several lifetimes, without a doubt. A long way to come from your starting point: a couple of thick oak planks.  Congratulations, looking forward to the final project post!!!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Man, I'll tell ya'll, I was having nightmares last night about failed drawbores though. I kept thinking about one where the peg split the mortise side and I wracking my brain about how to fix it. I had to go outside in the morning to make sure it wasnt real. LOL

Thanks for the support Tony, Lucas, & Mos.

Mos, I guess I could leave the hammer dents, its just annoying when its most of the joints. LOL. That and I guess I'd want to at least start out with smoother surfaces. Actually after a few dings I started putting a piece of plywood next to the peg that caught most of the stray hammer blows. Another tip to keep in mind.

Thanks Don! Lumberjocks would be boring if we all had the same style bench.  However mine does have a little 1" lip on the font "apron" that I can still get a clamp on if I need to.

Thanks Joe, your next man. When are you starting on your Underhill inspired bench? Your tag line is perfect atually, I'm "Making something I'll love tomorrow, and I'm doing it slowly. lol.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for the kind words Smitty and thanks for the encouragement. Hopefully the final post wont be too far away… My wife has been very patient but think she has had enough of this workbench obsession.


----------



## terryR

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Very nice, Mauricio! Splayed legs drawbored together…awesome!

Makes me wanna grab some drawbores and try them out! I cannot believe you did all these as a first attempt. Congrats on such overwhelming success, bud!


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Nice job, you had me on the edge of my keyboard.
Now I have to go watch Roy and Peter.
Roy would be proud.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Terry, you got to try it man, works great.

Thanks Dave, I need to make it out to see Roy now. He has the bench from the show at his school I believe.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Ah, makes sense. I guess when I did my pegs I used one of those double sided urethane and hard rubber mallets.


----------



## Sylvain

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio you can be proud of yourself.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Mos, I need to get me one of those. I just have never had success driving wooden pegs with anything but a steel hammer. Everything else I've tried tends to break the peg. The Urethane is firm though so it might have worked well.

Sylvain, thank you sir!


----------



## jap

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Looking great.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


I don't want to say how many pegs I've broken with the urethane hammer, because I still have to remove, glue, and re-drive the pegs for my workbench legs, but I will give you a clue, it rhymes with hero…

I also use it for some chisel work too


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Jap!

Mos, I'm always happy for an excuse to buy a legitimate woodworking tool at one of the big box stores! I'm going to have to grab one next time I'm there.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Drawbore Assembly*
> 
> Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left.
> 
> I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it's not necessary at all. I also won't have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size.
> 
> The hole stress free thing is true in theory any way.
> 
> This assembly was pretty damn stressful since it was my first time drawboring anything. You'll see the issues as we go through the pictures.
> 
> I think you are all aware of my venture into making drawbore pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now that those are done I needed to smooth all surfaces and edges.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then drill out the holes in the mortises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transfer the holes to the tenons with a little offset. This was one of the nerve wracking parts because I was really unsure of how much offset to use in oak. I ended up using around 3/32 or so I guess. Once I got a sense for it I just went by eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I tested the fit on my fist couple (with only 1/16" offset) there was almost no offset and it wasn't pulling the joint tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I used a tip I saw on a Peter Follansbee blog. I glued dowels back into the hole then predrilled them with more offset.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty easy and I only had to do that on 3 of the holes.
> 
> I had to adjust the fit on one or two shoulders that weren't closing up tight on the outside face. The drawbore pin helps for checking these fits.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #92 was the tool of choice for cleaning up the shoulders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut some oak pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then whittled a point on the end of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So without further ado lets start driving some pegs. I'm almost shat myself on this part because I didn't know what to expect. I just stopped thinking about and started pounding them in.
> 
> I was afraid my offset might be too much. Maybe the pegs wouldn't go in? Maybe they would break off in the middle of pounding them in? I didn't know.
> 
> I did read one tip about rubbing wax on the pegs to ease their navigation through the hole, so that's what I did.
> 
> And I'm glad I did. Here goes the first one!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went in perfectly!
> 
> I went through all the joints for the stretchers first. Besides some stray hammer blows (I'll have to steam the dents out) everything went swimmingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But of course nothing ever goes perfectly right?. Here is my first and only FAIL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of looks like a surprised face ;-0
> The peg broke off before I could drive the last inch in. So it did get all the way through the tenon and about 1/2" into the back wall of the mortise before it broke
> 
> Also, I guess this is the best place for this kind of failure because it will be covered up by leather for the vise chop.
> 
> So here is the assembled core of the bench. Or the wet dog as Roy Underhill called it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's amazing how the pegs hold everything together. Its Rock Friggin' Solid. Just an incredible bit of ancient technology. There is no give in the joints at all. I'm pretty excited!
> 
> Next up:
> Flatten the top again
> Chamfer dog holes
> Glue and bolt on the tool tray (that will be tricky)
> Final small details (removing dents and such)
> Apply finish
> 
> So I'm almost done!
> 
> Comments and questions are always welcome.
> 
> Thanks for the watching and for all the encouragement!
> 
> Mauricio


I guess I also don't hit them very hard either. If nothing else, it'll make the pegs mushroom less. I drove a lot of pegs with it when I made my traveling plane till. The other thing I liked was that it was a little quieter, but that's probably not as much of an issue to someone not in an apartment lol


----------



## mochoa

*Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*

Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.

So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.

First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent) 









Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table. 









Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7









Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry. 









Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp. 









Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping. 









Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.

Pretty gappy on this side. 









The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.









This is the good side. Only one little plug. 









So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4. 









Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform. 









Inserted some patches. LOL!









Here is the after pic.









You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed. 









Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.









#5 & #7 for this job. 









So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.

THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.

So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.


















































I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.

I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.

Looking forward to put this thing to work.

Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.

It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.

Cheers!

Mauricio


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Mauricio, it looks absolutely amazing. A finely crafted bench. Good pics, especially on the DT fix. It has been a pleasure to follow along, inspirational work sir. Bravo.


----------



## blackcherry

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for sharing this journey on such a unique workbench,bravo for you and your new workmate…BC


----------



## BrandonW

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Wow. It's really coming together. I think this is my favorite bench on the site just because it is so unique and has the hand-made screws.


----------



## blackcherry

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Shane jinks on the BRAVO…lol


----------



## mojapitt

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


I really wish I could spend a day with you to see this done in person. Truly awesome work.


----------



## ksSlim

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


NICE Maur, thanks for taking us on the trip with you.
I think you're going to enjoy using it.


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


That looks awesome, Mauricio. Can't wait to see it in random shots (once finished, of course)


----------



## shipwright

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


What a labor of love Mauricio.
You've put in a lot of time and effort for this.
I'm glad for you that it is turning out so beautifully.
You should be very proud.

It's also nice to see you using hide glue, should last a few hundred years.


----------



## djwong

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for showing how you corrected the dovetail gaps. The fix looks great.


----------



## luv2learn

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


I have really enjoyed this blog and I have learned a lot from you. Your bench is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship thanks for sharing your journey with us.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


A heirloom bench for sure. Nice job.


----------



## chrisstef

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Congrats Mauricio! As much as we all love wood working im sure that the finish of your bench comes as a huge relief. You pulled it off in stunning fashion friend. I kinda cant wait to see what it looks like with a finish on it, especially the leg vice. Can we get a video of its first ding? You know you gotta get that out of the way right?


----------



## yuridichesky

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


It is really nice feeling when there are only few last touches left and it's ready to go. Congrats!

Also, you made me work harder on my own workbench, so thank you


----------



## terryR

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


+1 to what Yuri said…you keep inspiring ME to get my bench done, too!

Thanks for sharing the gappy dovetails…the after shots look great! Strong inspiration there!

Congrats on completing an awesome project!!!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for all the great comments guys!

Thanks Shane and thanks for all he encouragement along the way.

Thanks BC! I look forward to putting it to use.

Brandon, that's a bold statement, there are a lot of great benches on LJ, thanks for that great compliment.

Monte bring some beer it would be a good time! Thanks!

Thanks Slim, and thanks for your input along the way.

Mos, I'm just going to start using it. I'll slather it with finish when it gets warmer. Warmer temps are just around the corner down here. Wont be long.

Thanks Paul, yes my first couple of experiences with liquid hide glue have been positive. The 24hr cure time can be a little inconvenient but I'm glad I now have it in my bag of tricks.

Thanks DJ, glad I was able to pass on tips learned from other LJs.

Thanks L2L, and thanks for following.

Thanks, Don, kind of cool to think that this bench will be around for a long while. Hopefully among the family for centuries to come.

Stef, thanks man, I'm with you, that leg vise is really going to pop once some finish is on it. the first dings were put in it before it was even finished, most of the joints still have hammer dings from when I drove the pegs in. I'm going to leave them there. They don't bother me much. You also should know that your mallet will be a permanent fixture in the tool tray. It's what I will be using to smack holdfasts among other things. 

Thanks Yuir! Cant wait to see your bench come together. If your wagon vise is any indication of what the rest of the bench will look like I'm sure it will be amazing.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Terry! I'm glad to pass on the inspirational energy I received from all the great benches made by other LJ's. I look forward to seeing yours come together!


----------



## blackcherry

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Keep coming back to this unique bench I guess it's the size that is so impressive along with the tray ,legs, and well everything. I've alway like view bench made here and this one ranks with the best smaller type benches posted in quite sometime and will bet it will be copied soon. Thanks again Mauricio for sharing with us on this cool design .


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks again BC! I have really enjoyed the little work I've done on it so far. Mos is making one very similar to mine. Watching his build really helps me re-live the whole experience. Here are some pics of my inspiration piece. I found it googleing "antique French Workbenches".


----------



## LukieB

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Looks awesome Maur, Very nice job!!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Here is the site where I found the bench. It looks like they sold the bench above. But there is another one that is similar. 
http://www.1stdibs.com/search/?q=workbench

This reminds me. I'd like to add a flip up sawing stop one of these days. 









Although I'm not sure if he wagon vise screw would be in the way. There might be risk of hitting it with the saw and messing up the teeth.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Lucas!


----------



## PurpLev

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


NICE!

curious - what made you position the tails on the end cap as opposed to on the apron?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Purp. Hmmm, I'm not sure, I haven't given it much tough. I guess my reasoning was that I will see the end caps the most and tails look better than pins? LOL. Also it gives more strength front to back?

Do the tails normally go on the back?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Oh and Purp, thanks again for your blog on the wagon vise. I was just looking at how much clearance I would have to put a 6" wheel on it like you did. The center of my screw is just under 3" from the top so it wont work for me unfortunately.


----------



## PurpLev

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


cool.

The tails usually go on the apron to pull the end-cap inwards and mechanically counter the forces that the tail vise exerts on the end cap (which is pushing it away from the bench) - same idea as the bolts you have on the end cap. since you have the bolts it's less critical, and if its visually more pleasing to you than you have made the right choice 

hope this didn't come off in a negative way, just noticed it and was curious. cheers. bench looks awesome!


----------



## PurpLev

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


maybe you can do a 5" wheel, or just go big and don't worry about it unless you plan on having workpieces which are longer than your bench and will protrude from the tail and be affected by the "higher" wheel (that also means that you won't be able to hold those using your tail vise) ?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Ah makes sense Purp. I think I'm safe with the bolts. No negativity detected, thanks for the thought and discussion.

Hmmm, 5"? I'll look into that. That might work and I think it would give me more than enough torque. I dont have a metal lathe like you do but DonW gave me a good idea of how to attach the wheel. He just ordered some large drill bits and was able enlarge the hole on the wheel that way.


----------



## PurpLev

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


let me know what you decide. Grizzly have a few handwheels at ~$8-$10, I'll be willing to machine one for you.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Purp! You dont have to tell me twice, I'm off to find a hand wheel!


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Awesome Mauricio! Congratulations! That bench is a whole ton of sexy.

You are a force to be reckoned with, your exuberance and tenacity have made following your build informative, inspiring and a complete pleasure. Thank you for taking the time to bring us along with you.

It really is a beautiful piece of work Mauricio.


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


I'm really happy for ya bro. You really worked hard for that and overcame a lot of obstacles. That was a masterclass on patching dovetails. I'd forgotten the tip of sawing the gap before inserting the wedge, but I'll remember it now.

Great work. Enjoy it.

P.S. I'd love to see a video of the wagon vice in operation.


----------



## jjw5858

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


This looks amazing Mauricio. Really inspiring work here. Thanks for sharing the pics of the older bench as well. It looks awesome!

I do need to get some ideas together in the spring to start mine this is true….lol. Thinking Paul Sellers influenced work bench meets….who knows…lol.


----------



## alba

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Your bench looks really sweet
Wonderful that you have taken the time to document it all.
Good luck with the video, I depend on my sons for such technology.
Jamie


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks for the wonderful comments Tony!

Thanks Andy, I should probably post some better pics with my wife's camera. I'll see what I can about the video. I'd like to show the bench going through all the possible work holding positions.

Thanks Joe! Check out John's blog. He is making a Paul Sellers / Roubo bench that you might find interesting. It's a really sweet design. http://lumberjocks.com/affyx/blog/34061

Jamie, that's what I need someone to do it for me! Hopefully it's just one short clip with no editing. I don't know the first thing about editing a video. I'll have to channel Underhill for that one. ;-) Thanks for your comments!


----------



## superdav721

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Great save on the doves. You are doing a great job. This bench will looks to be one of the best tools you have and you built it. I am impressed.
Bravo!


----------



## RGtools

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


This is a fantastic build, I am really impressed by the repair work you did on the dovetails, you can hardly tell in the finished product. When it comes down to it being able to persevere and fix stuff like that is what makes you a good woodworker in the end.

Now…beat the heck out of that thing…with love of course.


----------



## KOVA

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


*HERMOSO WORKBENCH LOCO Y MUY FELÍZ CUMPLEAÑOS ;-)*


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Dave! Great point. The only problem is that its makeing the rest of the tools and the shop look like crap. Its going to make me have to step up my game.

Thanks RG. Your right, rolling with the punches is what its all about. Don't wory, I'm going to beat it up, mostly because I'm not a very carful worker. It already has some pretty nice dings in it.

Gracias Kova, y gracias por las felicidades!


----------



## helluvawreck

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


I'm not sure that I've seen this blog. That looks like a real nice bench. Good work and thanks for posting - I'll take a look at the rest.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Thanks Charles!


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *Final Top Prep and Tool Tray Assembly*
> 
> Ok folks we have some momentum going here and have made some real progress lately. We're getting close to the end.
> 
> So the idea is, flatten the top, glue and bolt on the tool tray, then plane to tray to be coplanar with the top.
> 
> First I chamfer the dog holes, I do this again after flattening. I figure I want to avoid spelching when planning the top by chamfering them beforehand. I'm not ashamed to say I used a routah (Norm accent)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patched a couple of holes from when this top was a table.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the top with winding sticks, Stanley's #5, #5 1/2, and #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next to glue up the tool tray. I dry fit it and then knocked off one end at a time, applied glue and knocked it back on. I used liquid hide glue (Old Brown) for the extra open time. I'm not sure if I needed it but it is comforting to not be in such a hurry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is some creative clamping. I don't have pipe clamps long enough so I used two cabinet clamps bridged in the middle by an F clamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the DT on the left side was very sloppy so it need some extra clamping to close it all up. Since I'm clamping on a slight angle I used some non-slip drawer liner to keep the clamps from slipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and the draw bore pin came in handy for lining up the holes so I could get the bolts in.
> 
> Pretty gappy on this side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other side (the first one cut) was much better. You would think it would be the other way around. This one took a lot of paring to get it to fit so I got more aggressive on the second one trying to get it to fit right off the saw but that didnt work out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the good side. Only one little plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after the glue was dry, I flushed up the end grain with the Krenov smoother and the #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sawed out the gap to make the patches straight and make the lines more uniform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inserted some patches. LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the after pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got to love that about woodworking. Almost any error can be fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I put my straight edge across the bench and marked of where I needed to knock down the tool tray to make it coplanar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 & #7 for this job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after easing some edges and bolting the wagon vise back on. I also flushed up the wagon block with the top.
> 
> THE BENCH IS DONE. That is except for the oil varnish mix. I'm waiting for it to get a little warmer before I do that to make sure it cures right. Won't be long I'm sure. I also will be applying leather to the vises.
> 
> So here it is folks, pretty much ready for action. I also just picked up some Veritas brass dogs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may do a video showing how the screw parallel guide works, I've never done a video so I'm not sure.
> 
> I'm stoked but can't wait to put on the finish and get the final blog done.
> 
> Looking forward to put this thing to work.
> 
> Thank you guys for watching and for all your encouragement and advise along the way.
> 
> It's been great sharing the journey with you guys.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mauricio


Big smile here Scott  Thanks for reposting that pic! Brings back memories of your glorious bench completion.


----------



## mochoa

*The Finish*

Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…

I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.

After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.

Just one coat on the bench.

I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.










I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.

I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!


























Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.

















The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!









The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale. 









I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out. 









The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.










The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage! 









Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax. 









Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces. 
i
















I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.

Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!

































Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.

I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.

Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.

Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.

Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!

In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.

"I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


----------



## mojapitt

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


I couldn't work on a table that nice. That's nicer than some folks dinner tables. 

Beautiful work. Please teach your children all you know.


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


You have out done yourself Mauricio. Tell the truth, working with that oak left you with the "black hand" many times. One of the downsides to oak and walnut. It is really nice, enjoy it, as I know you will.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Well done. Definitively one of my favorites.


----------



## Airframer

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


That…... is one sexy looking bench! I have been lurking and following this build for a while and it is great to see it finished. My hats off to you sir!


----------



## luv2learn

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


That is one very fine bench and a very well documented build. This is truly a family heirloom. Now that you have your shop anchored with this fine piece of equipment I am looking forward to seeing the projects you and your bench produce.


----------



## JGM0658

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


That came out sweet Mauricio, congratulations!


----------



## gfadvm

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


I'm with Monte. Put that in the house and build a less fancy version for the shop!


----------



## Tim457

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


You finished the bench within a year with small children, that's very impressive. I have to agree with Monte, it looks so nice I'd have a hard time using it. When the next project beckons though…


----------



## Mosquito

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


It looks really great. The finish seems to have worked really well


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Thanks for all the wonderful comments guys.

Shane, you know, I've never had the Black Hand? And I've worked with Oak a lot. Wonder why?

Don't worry guys, I'll be putting it to use and beating it up with love.

Tim your right, having small children doesn't help the productivity at all!


----------



## jjw5858

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Looks awesome! Congrats and enjoy it!


----------



## ShaneA

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Really, no black hands? The stuff makes my hands black, and it is difficult to get off. Walnut gets me too. Maybe it just effects people different. I really haven't had problems with dust of any type, like some do. But there are woods that discolor my skin.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Never had the 'black hand' either. Maybe a little black glue residue. Much is made about oak and walnut that I don't get. Guess that's why my bench is oak and walnut as well. 
Also, I applied watco danish oil to my roubo today. I think it's pretty much made of the same ingredients you used. Guess I just saved the mixing.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


I don't have a poem, but the build is truly inspirational. The transformation of wood and worker over the past months has been a sight to behold; thanks for taking us along!


----------



## JGM0658

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


The stuff makes my hands black,

The tannin in the oak reacts with your sweat, do your tools "rust" after you use them? You probably have acidic sweat…


----------



## Brit

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


OMG - I'd forgotten all about that little rap Mauricio. )

It has always been a sweet bench in my eyes and it is set to improve with age and some honest work. Looking forward to some action shots in future posts.


----------



## yuridichesky

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


This is eye candy, my congratulations!

What did you do to attract young helpers to the process? Mine 11 y.o. one doesn't show a bit of interest towards shavings.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Big Red, your bench is going to look amazing, cant wait to see it with finish on it. Yeah watco is pretty much the same thing, it might be Tung oil instead of BLO though.

Smitty, thanks for that profound statement sir and thanks for sharing your wisdom along the way.

Shane I think I responded to the black hands comment on the wrong page. It might be due to the residual metals in your skin from all the pole dancing. ;-)

LOL, Andy, I loved your poem, I had to save it to bust out on a special occasion. Here it is in full:

"I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction.

Chrisstef, Brandon, Dan and Don,
Them homeys comin' at ya with their rappin' songs
Their sheeeit is strong, brothers it ain't wrong,
In this LJ posse where we all belong.

Won't somebody stop me 'cause I haven't a clue,
Why the hell I'm rappin' when I'm 52.

Peace out!"

LOL….

Yuri, I don't know how I finally got them out there. But there not out there for the woodworking. They imagine that the planes are trains and that the shavings are smoke! Its a start I guess. Might not work on an 11yr old though.


----------



## donwilwol

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


did you say homeys?


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Yes he did Don…


----------



## PurpLev

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


That came out great!

glad to read the wheel works well for you. Happy I could contribute. Enjoy the new work surface


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


THANKS AGAIN PURP. It worked out great and was easy to put on. I think it really completes the bench.

The space on the shaft you told me about doesn't bother me at all. I'm going to leave it like it is. I like it.

And thanks for the turned handle. It goes really nicely with the rest of the wood on the bench.


----------



## SASmith

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


I enjoyed the build blog. 
Thanks for sharing.


----------



## lysdexic

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


I will thank PurpLev for you one more time. Love the hand wheel.


----------



## AnthonyReed

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Outstanding Mauricio! Very cool that it stirred some interest from your boys. And yes that chop is phenomenal.

Congratulations on its completion. Well done bud.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Smith, thanks you sir and thanks for the support!

Scott, yes, thanks again to PurpLev! I'm loving it.

Tony, thanks man!


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Some action shots. Light clamping and the piece dose not budge at all. 









Planing small this pieces, no problem…


----------



## kokayak

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Where can you get a wheel like that to replace the T-handle on the wagon vice? I'd really love to put a wagon vice on my next bench and the wheel handle seems far superior to a T-handle.


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Kokayak, the wheel is a big plus, especially since the T handle can stick out in front of the bench and get in the way.

You can get the Hand Wheel at Enco.com or Grizzly.

But you will need a large drill bit to drill the hole to fit the screw. I'm not sure where you are located but I hear you can get them cheap at Harbor Freight in the states. I was fortunate to have a LJ buddy help me out with that part.


----------



## Northwest29

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Mauricio - What an amazing journey of work and sharing with your fellows LJs. Excellent work, perseverance and craftsmanship. Well done! But you forgot to carve your initials and date -


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Thanks Ron, it was a long journey but I'm glad I did it and now have a sturdy bench to work on. And more importantly my work holding frustrations are over!

I did think about carving something on it but my carving skills are not there yet. I didn't ever sign it anywhere which sucks, I'm going to have to at least write my name under the top or something with a marker.


----------



## helluvawreck

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


This is one of the niceset benches that I've seen. You've done a fine job on it.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Thanks for that big compliment Charles. I really appreciate it.


----------



## duckmilk

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Maur, your bench blog is what I accidentally stumbled upon while researching for a bench build idea, and what got me hooked on LJs. This comment is so late because I lurked for a long time and, after a move, just recently foined the fray. Thanks for the inspiration. Will be starting mine soon after I get a new shop built (don't label me along with Stef yet)


----------



## mochoa

mochoa said:


> *The Finish*
> 
> Hello again friends. Ok I know this bench build has been a little anticlimactic because you have seen the bench put together a million times. But this should be my final post on this bench build… maybe…
> 
> I got the finish applied, added leather to the vices, and put a hand wheel on the wagon vise.
> 
> After testing out the finish on scraps I decided to go with 1-1-1 (MS, Poly, BLO) on most of the bench. I sanded it into the top with 220 grit sandpaper to fill the pores some.
> 
> Just one coat on the bench.
> 
> I found 3-2-1 to be a little slicker and a little lighter in color so I used that on the walnut leg vise chop only. I put two coats on the leg vise just because I felt it needed it to look good. Slickness isn't an issue here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find glossiness to be an issue using this clear poly, especially since the finish was sanded into the top.
> 
> I'll spare you pictures of the wipe on wipe off routine and just show you many pictures of the seexy new bench!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the quarter sawn rays of the red oak.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The QSWO stretchers also have a lot of nice rays showing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The #4 placed on the bench to give you an idea of scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the vise chop came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The grain is centered on the board and kind of flows around the screw hub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kids have been having fun playing on the bench which is why they are in many of the pictures. I clamp a board in the wagon vise and they use it as a track for the "trains" (planes) to ride on. I retracted the blades of course. This is a dream come true for me because they have never wanted to hang out in the shop with me before. Now they ask me every day if we can go play in the garage!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and I actually Shellacked the Jatoba deadman and vice garter. I heard that oil finishes can sometimes darken oily woods so I went with just a light seal coat of shellac and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double stick tape was used to add leather to the vise faces.
> i
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm undecided about whether this was a good call. It certainly holds the leather securely but it seems like it might be a little gummy and allows the work piece to wiggle a little bit when clamped. This is not really an issue with the leg vise but it is an issue when clamping a board vertically for sawing in the wagon vise. But then again that may be due to me using the pretty thick leather (~1/8"). I'll try it for a while and see how it goes. I can always pull it off and use contact cement or just use thinner sued leather.
> 
> Finally, I'm very excited about the hand wheel PurpLev hooked me up with. You got to love the generosity shown by so many Lumberjocks on this site. Thanks again PurpLev! He even turned me a nice mahogany handle for it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides looking cool I really think it was needed. I've found that there are some situations where the T handle sticks out in front of the bench and hits your leg when you are planing. Also there is a lot of moving in and out on a wagon vise (more so than on a leg vise) so the small hand wheel is faster to spin in and out. The hand wheel works great and provides plenty enough clamping leverage accept one part of the wagon travel that is a little tight. I'll need to work out those kinks.
> 
> I'll work on doing a video so you guys can see how everything works.
> 
> Also, I'm thinking of putting a wheel on the leg vise that will ride on the floor to make the movement in and out a little smoother. Not absolutely necessary but I think it would be a nice touch. Thanks to Boatman Jim for hooking me up with some plastic wheels that are going to work perfectly for this.
> 
> Thanks for following along on this long journey folks. I really appreciate everyone's encouragement and support along the way. It's been challenging, fun, and very educational.
> 
> Look for my bench in the future in action shots as I put it to work!
> 
> In conclusion I'd like to share an excerpt of a poem from my LJ Buddy Andy (aka Brit). Clearly a man that was brought up on Shakespeare. LOL.
> 
> "I'm sendin' this out to my homeboy Mauricio,
> He ain't no rapper, but his bench is bellissimo!
> This ain't no fiction, it's built with conviction,
> Them splayed legs help the coefficient of friction."…


Mike, that's great to hear, I'm glad to have been of some inspiration.

I've done a lot of work on this bench and I like it a lot. I don't really have any complaints. Its not the simplest bench to build so it took some time. Probably would have been faster to make a basic roubo but I worked with the materials I had.

For the wagon vise I would look at Airframers blogs. He has a very nice way of making metal slides with very simple tools, If I did it again I would go that rout. Mine doesn't slide well at the extrems of the channel, moves very easily in the middle.

And I would make it a couple of inches taller. I just sit it on blocks.

Other than that I love it. Glad to see you out of the shadows!

And definitely don't be a Stef!


----------

