# Off Topic - Japanese Knotweed



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Has anyone waged war against this invasive species? Ive got a good stand of the stuff just behind a fence in a wooded portion of my backyard and its beginning to creep its way into my lawn area. Needless to say, I aint havin it! Has anyone had any success in eradicating this SOB?

From what ive read the only type of warfare its susceptible to is chemical. 2,4-D and other herbicides that contain glyphosate such as concentrated roundup are supposed to be the ticket but will likely need to be applied directly to a freshly cut stem / shoot of the plant.

I hates me some knotweed.


----------



## SirIrb (Jan 12, 2015)

BURNED MOTOR OIL.

[sound of weeds screaming]


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Sounds of my Department of Environmental Protection employed wife screaming ^

But I guess at some point ill resort to just about anything lol. She's gotta go to sleep some time.


----------



## SirIrb (Jan 12, 2015)

It is the best weed killer. Back home in South Mississippi kudzu can not be stopped short of mowing it and never letting the leaves get sun, rinse, repeat for years. But the mower wont get in fence rows. oil will.


----------



## 7Footer (Jan 24, 2013)

Hey buddy, asked my old man about it, it's pretty bad here in Oregon too, especially in the coastal areas. Sounds like the timing of when you spray is the key, as which is the same with most invasive species. Basically you need to spray it in the fall if you want to stop the rhizomes from spreading, if you spray it now it will help, but it won't stop it… Sounds like that is some nasty ish, and you got some work cut out for you.

If you need some herbicides, I can most likely hook you up, we're a licensed chemical dealer, that round up pro sh!t is expensive, and it's all a name, glyphosate is cheap and I bet we have some lying around. Just look at what percent of active ingredient is in pro vs. pro concentrate… My pops was saying that with round pro concentrate, it has a little extra ingredient in it which turns the leaves and foliage brown quicker than a straight glyphosate, but that doesn't really mean it's gonna kill the plant or the rhizomes, and the active ingredient between pro and pro concentrate is not a huge amount.. It said fall is the most effective time to spray knotweed because that's when the roots are absorbing more nutrients and thus will absorb more of the herbicide into its roots…. I guess that the root systems of knotweeds are so massive that's part of what makes it very hard to control.

There's a couple people I can ask and see if anything in particular works better than other products, they're noxious weed 'sperts.. I found this article about it though, sounds like you're pretty much right on though, glyphosate. 
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/node/965
Here's some more good links
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/search/google?cx=003321618576478813351%3Aw55shzhvmvg&cof=FORID%3A11&query=knotweed&sa.x=0&sa.y=0&sa=Search&form_build_id=form-jife48W-72yHUiTQiJUs5VqYSQ-Edi3z86OkED55_04&form_id=google_cse_searchbox_form


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

*EDIT*: Never mind, I deffer to ^. This is 7's wheelhouse, he'll set you straight.

If you are diligent with a systemic herbicide like roudup wouldn't it eventually kill the root system and negate the infiltration? It reads like it is a very robust plant and will require many applications to kill the root system, which is the only way to stop it permanently. Short of that, rent a dozer and push the ish out.

I have no experience with it however Stef, I am just blathering my thoughts.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

I forget what you do for a living sometimes 7 … doh! Definitely talk to you people and see what you can dig up for a brother. Ive sent an email over the invasive species department at UConn to see what they might be able to offer as well.

From what ive read 41% glyphosate seems to be the standard in roundup concentrate and other similar products. Gimme dat good ish if you got it buddy! I think I can get 46% stuff at the depot but im always on the look out for the real deal goods.

If ive got to cut the shoots one by one and inject them with death juice I will. Little motor oil for you, lil gylhosate for you, little magic dust for santy claus.


----------



## woodcox (Nov 21, 2012)

Here ya go. Give 7'rrr a call to see if he has a couple loaners that are "out of rotation".

Out of control that stuff looks like it could hide a house! Good luck with that mang.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

I think youre dead on T. Its gonna take time and effort which im willing to do. From what I read, even if you pull this stuff by the roots, one little spec of root will cause regermination.


----------



## ChrisK (Dec 18, 2009)

An article i read suggested covering it tarps to block all the sunlight. Takes time but appears to work.


----------



## 7Footer (Jan 24, 2013)

Yeah I'm sure motor oil will work, lol. Just don't let anyone see you doing it!

I'll let you know if I hear anything from the foresters we work with. Sh!t sounds bad though, the root systems of that knotweed are like 10x the size of their foliage (compared to most trees that are 1 to 1 root system vs foliage), which is why it spreads so much…

Edit: ha WC!


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

+1 to the goats.
Stef, I know where you can buy a couple of kids!


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Ive heard that as well Chris. Ill actually be pulling out around 500 sqft of carpet from the house soon and im kind of debating on cutting the stuff back and laying the carpet over it. The only downfall is eventually ill have to throw that carpeting away and by then it'll be wicked heavy and stink something awful im sure.

No goats Terry lol. The rest of suburbia might lose their minds if the new neighbor lets his goats run free.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Here's the response email I got from the folks up at UConn:

Hi Chris,

I am glad to hear of your interest in controlling Japanese knotweed (Polygonum cuspidatum). For fact sheets and more information on this plant please visit our website and look for Polygonum cuspidatum listed on the Invasive Plant List: http://cipwg.uconn.edu/invasive_plant_list/.

This is an extremely difficult invasive plant to control due to its ability to re-grow from ½ inch vegetative pieces and from seeds. Roots and runners must be removed to prevent re-sprouting. Digging up plants is labor intensive and not recommended since digging tends to spread rhizome fragments which generate new shoots. Here are my recommendations:

Cut plants several times during growing season:
Cutting repeatedly stresses the plants and greatly reduces the reserves in below-ground rhizomes. At least three cuts are needed in one growing season to offset rhizome production. Cutting can be done at any time during the growing season but must be done repeatedly. Repeated cuttings should be continued for several consecutive years.

Shading, in conjunction with cutting, will help to weaken plants because Japanese knotweed requires high light intensities.

• I have heard varying degrees of success with shading but this is an option: After cutting, stands can be covered with black plastic or shade cloth topped with asphalt, blocks, or stones. Plastic should be kept level with the ground and coverage should extend at least 10 feet beyond the farthest stems. Weigh down the edges and monitor for sprouts. Leave cover in place for at least two growing seasons.

Cut and spray plants in the fall:
Chemical control is most effective in the fall (before first killing frost) when plants are translocating nutrients to the rhizomes. Cut stalks about 2 inches above ground level and immediately apply glyphosate (Roundup) or triclopyr (Garlon) to the cut stems. A follow-up treatment may be needed to control re-sprouts. 
*Always follow all directions on the herbicide label

Disposal:
These plants should not be composted at all because they have rhizomes that may survive in compost and spread to new locations when the compost is distributed. Do not bring to a transfer station, compost site, or brush processing site that may compost or mulch the material. Plant material can be bagged (tied in heavy duty black plastic bags) and allowed to rot in a sunny location for several weeks, then disposed of in trash to be placed in land fill or incinerated. Where burning ordinances permit, plant refuse can be dried out thoroughly above ground and burned on site. Plant parts should not be allowed to contact soil during this time to prevent sprouting. Incineration of material may be a viable option if it can be transported securely to an incinerator. Contact your town to find out if your regular solid waste/trash is incinerated. A guide on proper disposal can be found on our website at: http://cipwg.uconn.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/244/2014/01/InvasivePlantDisposal_2014-01-23.pdf

Japanese knotweed will not be controlled easily. It takes diligence throughout many growing seasons and even then will require constant monitoring for seedlings and re-sprouts.

I hope this information is helpful in understanding the challenges and techniques for controlling Japanese knotweed and I wish you success in the battle ahead. Please let me know if you have any additional questions or concerns.


----------



## 7Footer (Jan 24, 2013)

Stef-san, you're in luck. Talked to one of our good customers who is the Chief Forester for a timberland management company in Corvallis… Super knowledgeable guy. He said it's all about Imazapyr, anyone who says glyphosate is the key is behind the times. lol. Two products that work on it that contain Imazapyr are Polaris AC and Habitat, and I know we have something sitting around, probably some Polaris. He also said you have to wait until after the 4th of july to spray it because that's when the carbohydrates start going back into the root systems, and that's when you can kill it. He said that he'd be happy to coach you through it if you want to give him a call. He is an awesome guy, really fun to talk to… He also breeds prized pigs, ha!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

^Good man.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Hell yea 7! Friggin love this place. Aint no where on the interwebz that I have found with knowledge like that. I just looked up the Polaris stuff on the webz and it goes for like $75 for a quart. Im sure it needs to be mixed with water though.


----------



## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

Graze or mow during the growing season.
The covered plot will "spring" back.
I've seen success by covering until August, then uncover and treat with your choice of chemicals.

Applying chemicals late summer, early fall gets down to the roots better.
However, the seeds are viable for at least 8 yrs. Use pre-emergent.

As was said before, Glyphos is available in concentrate or other names.
Copyright or patent must have expired on "Round-up"

2-4D is some nasty stuff. Can sterilize an area, and the run-off effects anything in the area.


----------



## 7Footer (Jan 24, 2013)

Yeah it's usually only 3-6 ounces per gallon of water… Polaris is name brand though, there's a few others out there that are much much cheaper that are the same exact thing. Don't worry your pretty little face about how much it goes for. ;-)


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Good info Slim. Im not a huge fan of chemicals in most situations, especially around wells. Ive heard enough horror stories of polluted wells from my wife and no way would I want to endanger anyones water supply. Im a hippy at heart, love me some trees.

Thanks again 7. Ive got maybe a 2000 sqft area that id treat. Ill let ya know how my chat goes with your guy.


----------



## 7Footer (Jan 24, 2013)

The whole polluting and endangering water supplies thing started from a bunch of uninformed whack jobs. Herbicides are not as bad as everyone makes them out to be, pesticides are a different story though. The key with applying pesticides and herbicides is reading the label. You make your mix per what the label says and follow the rules of the label and you've got nothing to worry about.

Anytime brutha!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

*"...You make your mix per what the label says and follow the rules of the label and you've got nothing to worry about. - 7Footer"* - Just like on the DDT bottle. You'll be fine Stef.


----------



## 7Footer (Jan 24, 2013)

Lol T. Like I said, pesticides are a different story…


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Understood.

Don't get all sensi.


----------



## 7Footer (Jan 24, 2013)

The only sensi I get is sensimilla yo… It did remind me though, I saw this before my Boys got knocked out of the playoffs a couple nights ago and took this pic just for you… I ordered you one. ;-)

















Got eem! Ha…. Got eem!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Ouch.


----------



## 7Footer (Jan 24, 2013)

You know I'm just playin, I heart you. I wasn't even gonna bust it out but i know how much you love bustin my sack. I'll give you this though, next time I'm playing golf in the pouring ass rain I'm buying a bucket hat.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

No more DMT for this guy. Ohh wait, you said DDT.










Its funny how fast a thread denigrates once the original answer is solved. Thank you guys for that.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

I should have included a <golf> with above "ouch" as my sarcasm obviously did not come through.

Yes, busting your balls is one of my favorite things.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

*"Its funny how fast a thread denigrates once the original answer is solved. Thank you guys for that." -* I mind my manners on all but your threads, derailing post resolution I understood as fair game.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Absolutely fair game. And welcomed.

So ive gone full tard on this whole knotweed thing and started a conversation with a specialist up at UConn. I told her about the recommendation of the imazapyr and here's her response:

Thanks for the info, it's important to hear what others have tried and what they recommend. Discovering the best techniques for controlling Japanese knotweed requires an ongoing and dynamic discussion.

I have heard that imazapyr can be extremely effective for knotweed control since it persists in the soil for long periods of time. However, since it is non-selective it can also kill valuable non-target species. Imazapyr can move within roots and be transferred between intertwined root systems of different plants and other species. It has the potential to cause significant damage or death to trees and other species in the area. This movement of herbicide is exacerbated when imazapyr is incorrectly over-applied. Because of its potential for collateral damage, imazapyr may not be appropriate for sites with desirable vegetation. Sites where imazapyr has been used should not be planted for at least one year, because of its lingering effects.

I tend to recommend glyphosate because it is effective, easily accessible, and most commonly recommended, but imazapyr may be a better option for you depending on site conditions.

Yes, applications made after July 1 and before the first killing frost are most effective at injuring the rhizomes because carbohydrates produced in the leaves are moved to the rhizomes for growth and storage.

Keep me updated on the results of the control method you choose. Now you are armed for battle!


----------



## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Sounds like you're getting good advice from both sides.

Imazapyr if it's an area that you don't care that other stuff in the vicinity, including trees, may die off and not be able to be replanted for a while. Glyphosate if you need to be more selective, but it may take more time to completely eradicate the crap.

We don't have Japanese knotweed around here, but there are many other species with similar stories. My bane right now is bindweed. Almost an identical problem-someone brought to the area 100 years ago as an ornamental, now it's invasive and destructive. Like knotweed, it stores so much energy in the roots and rhizomes that it takes years to get rid of it.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Full AirFramer-mode is just the right caliber for it Stef. I hope you get the gopher this time; either way though we will enjoy the show.


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

Chris, have you tried napalm?


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Napalm would do the trick Soda but im trying to retain a bit of the shade bearing trees. Come sunset, the house and yard gets peppered by the sun out back. The glare that comes off our countertops will blind a man if ya aint careful.

So, to update, I talked to Noah's guy that he hooked me up with. He's a chief forester out in Oregon and very pleasant to speak with. He's got a recipe that he shared with me that is to be applied between July 4th and Labor day. At this time the plant will be sending all of its energy to the roots instead of the foliage. He suggested the following cocktail:

1/2% imazaypr (Brand name Polaris AC)
2% glyphosate (45% active ingredient, brand name Roundup concentrated formula)
1/2% surfactant (dish soap, mineral oil, etc)
97% water

He also said that the mixture should be kept off of the bark and foliage of any mature trees. So ill be sitting around waiting for this stuff to grow and annoy me for the next 2 months. Ill be sure to update along the way and hopefully within the next 2 years I can get rid of this bastard plant. In the mean time ill be conferring with the invasive species folks at UConn, keeping them abreast of my findings and any new information that they might be able to provide.


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

JK with the napalm  but more seriously, did you try boiling water? I'm wondering on a side note if the rhizomes of that stuff could be of any use, I'll investigate a bit and see if there's something useful inside of them.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Inside them? Like sapphires? Or maybe pearls?


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

The problem is that the root system is massive and ive got about a 1/4 acre of it. The shoots can actually be eaten like asparagus and its been know to be a remedy for lymes disease but id love to see what ya come up with soda.


----------



## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Dig it up, eat it, then go poop in the creek. Won't kill it, but it will go downstream and worry the crap out of anyone living there. Here in Mississippi, we have all you'll ever need. Good example of those who thought we needed something to control erosion. Environmental science at its best.
Oh well…....
If anyone ever finds a real use for the stuff they will be a millionaire overnight.
Bill


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

Found what I was looking for. The French Wikipedia page says all about what's in that thing (alas, not the English page): the roots are the most important natural source or resveratrol, which is increasingly investigated for health and beauty care. My suggestion: dig'em up and stock them dry (forget about DDT or other pesticids). You guys out there in the States might end up building small scale local facilities to treat these suckers and turn them into something useful and worthy. Oh, by the way, we're invaded by that thing too here in Yurrop, and it seems to be a strong indicator of polluted ground, mainly by metals. Ouchie.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Youre welcome to all you can pick brother  Im all for peace but once captain knotweed and his gang stepped foot on my grass peace went out the window. This is war.

The indicator of metals is interesting though. My wife works with a lot of things of that nature. Ill have to talk to her on that.

Case in point; our desk:


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

Oh shoot…


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Heres what the crap looks like. Id say 90% of that wasnt there 2 weeks ago when i mowed the lawn.










2 hours and a 55 gallon trash bag full im about half way done chopping it down. This will need to be done 2-3 times a year for 2-3 years before the plant will give up. Im hoping that the use of the herbacide mixture will shorten that battle.


----------



## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

Looks like the battle against the Sumac, it took a few brutal extractions and several years of mowing before we eventually managed to get rid of it. This stuff is tougher still, good luck bro…


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

What a pain in the ass, I hope the herbicide helps you turn the tide.

Thanks for the update.

Beautiful woods/back yard you have there Stef.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

In feel your pain! I think there are more noxious weeds on my 10 acre tree farm than trees ;-( Of course the trees take more space ;-)


----------



## KellyB (Mar 1, 2015)

Ah, yes, Japanese Knotweed. Looks like bamboo without any of its redeeming qualities. 
The way I did it, was to get hold of a gun which has a hypodermic-like needle which you insert into the stem just above the first or second joint from the ground. I used full strength Roundup, which requires care so as not to kill yourself or that prize planting of whatever flowers. Glyophosphate will kill knotweed, but it takes at least a year and a couple or three applications. In the fall, the plant tends to send its resources down to the rhizomes and that's the best time to nail them.

The gun is pricey. If you know a vet, you might get a syringe from them. Glue syringes for epoxy also work. 
Good info and the gun is from here: http://www.jkinjectiontools.com/

One of the positives of this method is that it is quite selective, and doesn't get into the ground as it would if you were to spray it. Think of it as a lethal injection. And yes, where knotweed is concerned, the death penalty is approved.

And it is an ongoing war, much like the Hatfields and McCoys. 
Good luck.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Thanks for the information Kelly. War it is, no doubt about it. Ill most likely be spraying as the previous owner, in an attempt to kill the knotweed, had laid down some landscape fabric and some poly sheathing which killed everything except for the knotweed which just grew right through and around it lol. Aside from the knotweed there isn't much else for about 10' off of my fence line so that's gonna get the spray. If I can get my hands on a cheaper injection gun I may use that method in a few other areas but at $250 ill probably pass . The way I see it is if I can kill the knotweed and theres some other war casualties involved that's the price ive got to pay. Ill replant in another year or 2.


----------



## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

You weren't kidding about picking up a new hobby. I'm no fan of spraying chemicals either but that stuff is crazy. My neighbor is a chemist and he keeps reminding me that herbicides are not long lasting to accumulate in the environment like pesticides. Sounds like repeatedly tearing out the foliage plus the drug cocktail should be effective. Enjoy your new pastime, thanks for the update.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Yea, the first thing I did was to investigate the half life of the herbacides id be using. The glyphosate is something like 3 months and the imazaphyr is 12 months.

Like I needed a new hobby but as my grandfather used to say … "you own a house, you deserve it."


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Ha! Gramps is cool.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Gettin sprayed this weekend. Ill keep photo documentation. We've cut this back from the fence line twice all ready. Total of 7 55 gal contractor bags. Just from the yard side of the fence.


----------



## summerfi (Oct 12, 2013)

Man, that's impressive stuff Stef. If you kill it off your place, is it just going to come back in from the neighbors?


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Wow. Amazing.


----------



## isotope (Dec 14, 2013)

Wow! Looking that the timestamps of your previous post, it seems like all those weeds grew in just 2 months. That is crazy. Good luck in your war.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

So far its pretty isolated to my yard bob. I think the neighbor to the left of me has a few shoots but not as much as i do. The previous owner had brought in a bunch of fill to level out the yard and im sure the devils weed came with it.

War it is iso. Im well prepared and ready for battle.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Heres the update. I sprayed the special sauce july 11th (ish). Here's what it looked like a week later;










This ^ was the first spot i sprayed and i dont think i shook the mixture enough. Heres the rest:










Still pretty lush

Here's where we are today.



















Its clearly been impacted. The leaves are wilting , dying and falling off. I sprayed 3 gallons over about 5,000 sqft. There was a grand total of 9 oz of herbacide in that mixture. As soon as it cools off a bit ill chop down all the stalks and respray the open shoots. From there its a waiting game to see what next spring brings.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Geeze that stuff is resilient.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Resilient isn't the word. Everything else that I spray is nuked. I mean gone-zo. This stuff is still managing to hang around and fight. Ill have the last laugh though. Im hookin up all the people I know in the neighborhood with the special 7 sauce.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

7 is a pusher, first taste is free.

Hope the multi-person attack helps knock it out for good in your area.

Best of luck extinguishing its light and thanks for keeping us updated; it is amazingly tough stuff.


----------



## GregInMaryland (Mar 11, 2010)

Any update?

Greg


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Nothin new to speak of Greg. I haven't had the time to get out there and cut it back any further but we are expecting a hard frost over the weekend and that should be the nail in the coffin for the season. Most likely we will have to wait until next spring to see what comes back. Ive got a feeling that its going to take me 2-3 years of treating to get rid of it and then another season to get some of the normal vegetation back.


----------



## GregInMaryland (Mar 11, 2010)

Good luck! I am not similarily affected (or effected for the grammar police if I got it wrong) and I've been interested in how you were faring.

I'll be interested in your updates.

Greg


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Ill keep the thread going come next spring but ive got decent hopes that I put a good beatin on it. The stuff that I didn't spray, because it borders both mine, and my neighbors yard, is strong as ever and still flowering. The stuff in my yard hadn't produced a single flower since I sprayed. Ive been laying down grass clippings over the really dead areas in hopes to fertilize the area so I can grow normal weeds again next spring.

If you've got a small patch you can try and cover it with old carpet to block the sunlight.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Hopefully this is more congenial that perennial creeping buttercups I fought them for about 15 years before I didn't seen any little shoots showing up any more ;-(


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Spring update:

Pics taken april 29th.









This is behind the fence line where all my work was concentrated. What you see are last years dead stalks. Up to 1" in diameter. No signs of any new growth In this area contrary to the other side of the yard that went untreated. 
Positive movement gang.

That untreated patch on the slope tgat abutts my neighbors yard will get treated this summer. Again spraying between july 4th and labor day.

Im keeping my eye on when natural vegetation begins regrowth and how the black cherry holds up. Hoping for no collateral damage.


----------



## duckmilk (Oct 10, 2014)

Looks promising so far Stef.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Right on! Dr. Feelgood's mixture and your timely application seems to have done the job. Good luck on the black cherry.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Dont cause no problems and wont be no problems ya heard.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

2 year update. Stef wins.

I finally got around to pulling up all the landscape fabric and poly sheeting the previous owner had laid down in an attempt to stop the knotweed. It had minimal effect on stunting the growth. Underneath there was a web of dead knotweed roots. Basically a blanket of roots (and mice, moles, ants, etc).

Next step is reestablishing ground cover and stabilizing the bank. If anyone has any suggestions for low creeping cover im all ears.


----------



## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

I like Vinca. So far very trouble free, aggressive but controllable. We have two kinds here and didn't pay for any of it. Just find a friend with some and plant a rooted stem every 18" or so and in two years nothing else can grow through it easily. Pretty purple blooms every spring and sometimes through out the summer, depending on how it feels I guess.

We put Pachysandra in a closed bed by the house to replace Ajuga plants that became infested with crown rot. Very durable, and in two years hasn't filled in 12" spacing yet.

DanK


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Thanks for the tip Dan. Looks like itll fit the bill. Ive passed it off to my horticultural advisory board.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Congrats Stef! Thanks for the update too!


----------



## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

> Ive passed it off to my horticultural advisory broad.
> - chrisstef


Fixed it for ya.

DanK


----------

