# Can I Adequately Join A Face Frame To A Plywood Case With Glue On Only One Surface?



## Targa (Aug 21, 2013)

I'm gluing a solid oak face frame, with the aid of biscuits, to a 3/4" oak plywood case and want to minimize glue squeeze out in order to minimize clean up of glue residue on the surface to be finished. (This is my first project so I'm cautiously feeling my way along)

My question is whether I can obtain adequate results by applying glue to only one surface before clamping the face frame to the case?

Will there be sufficient holding strength of the glue if I run a single bead of the glue around only the center of the case, in addition to both sides of the biscuits, before clamping the face frame to the case instead of also applying glue to the mating surface of the face frame?

I would appreciate your comments

Thank you


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Probably … I do that often … just make sure you spread the glue on the surface you put the bead on.

After-thought: Putting glue on both surfaces doesn't mean spreading twice as much glue. If you cut the amount of glue in half and put it on both sides, then spread evenly, you shouldn't have any more squeeze-out than with just one bed on one surface.


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

I prefer glue on both surfaces, particularly making sure there is glue in each biscuit slot on both sides-just use less glue and spread it out thin as Gerry observed.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

You can prefinish the ply with shellac to prevent the glue
from getting in the pores. You can also use paste wax 
which comes off with mineral spirits.


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## Alongiron (Jan 10, 2011)

When gluing anything at anytime, I always using 1-1/2 blue painters tape


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## BJODay (Jan 29, 2013)

+1 for TheDane. Use a silicon glue brush to spread the glue on the desired surface. It is surprising how far a bead can be spread around.

BJ


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## Targa (Aug 21, 2013)

*"When gluing anything at anytime, I always using 1-1/2 blue painters tape"*

I tried using some blue painters tape for delicate surfaces on some glue ups I did and had a tough time getting it off at the glue edge. Perhaps I waited too long and let the glue dry hard which is why it came off in bits and pieces?

*" You can also use paste wax which comes off with mineral spirits"*

Is there any particular paste wax I should or shouldn't use if I decide to go that route? I think I read somewhere not to use any with silicon?


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## rhett (May 11, 2008)

A single bead of glue and biscuits will keep that facefrrame on for good.

I would avoid the wax trick, especially if this is your first project.

A damp sponge should take care of any major squeeze-out.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

The problem with wiping glue off an open pored wood like oak
is the glue can get down in the pores. Some people claim
this has never been a problem for them, but it has vexed 
me in the past and that is why I do not wet-wipe glue on
open pored woods.

Any regular paste wax will work.

You could also fill the veneer grain before gluing the face 
frame one. The glue can be scraped off then with no
concerns about it affecting stain. With solid wood you
can scrape away material to get past any glue issues,
but with veneer being so thin more than light sanding
can result in the brown glue showing through the veneer.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

Use a liquid hide glue like Old Brown Glue and you can clean up squeeze out with water and a cloth. The strength is just as good and its just as easy. You will have no issues with finish and better yet, it is reversible.

Why is everyone using PVA glues????


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## DLCW (Feb 18, 2011)

I've been doing exactly that process since 2000 when I started my business. I've done hundreds of cabinet since then and have never had a problem. Prior to that, I did it the same way for family and friends when woodworking was a hobby. I prefinish all my cabinet parts before I assemble. That way any glue squeeze out is really easy to clean up.


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