# Millers Falls 18C - good choice for a newbie?



## jacobgerlach (Jul 26, 2013)

I posted here to get advice about lumber prices, tools to get rough stock ready to work, etc.

Part of my solution is keeping an eye out for good deals on planes.

I haven't decided to jump fully into surfacing rough stock by hand, but my goal is to eventually be able to clean up one face of a board enough to then send it through the power planer. I'd also like to be able to edge joint - I don't plan on buying a power jointer anytime soon.

I understand the basic idea of jack>jointer>smoother from other posts…

There's a 1935 Millers Falls 18C on CL for $35 near me.

I'm assuming that this is useless for edge jointing both because it's too short and because of the corrugated sole.

I've also heard some people recommend sticking to Stanley as a beginner since there's more information out there.

I have no experience sharpening, but have read a little on scary sharp and watched some videos - seems like it fits my budget.

So what do you guys think? Good choice to start me down the hand tool path?


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## eao2012 (Jan 14, 2013)

I got a Millers Falls plane from *BigRedKnothead* and I really like it. Pics? Sounds good unless theres something wrong with it, can't tell without pics.


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## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

The price is OK, it's the same size as a Stanley #6. All the parts are the same as a Stanley except one says Stanley, yours would say Millers Falls. Corrugated bottoms aren't going to stop you from edge-jointing and while Mr. Leach talked about their lack of length and how it makes them so unsuitable for jointing, I notice that it doesn't stop him from selling them on his monthly tool-list.


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## jacobgerlach (Jul 26, 2013)

Thanks for the replies guys.

The CL pics aren't particularly helpful - there is a crack in the tote that is hard to see. Relatively little rust. I'll make a final decision when I actually see it, but I have to drive about 30 min to check it out, so I want to see if it's worth the trip.

Maybe a more specific question:
*Is a jack plane enough to prepare a rough board to send through a power planer?* I've heard people talk about doing this, but not with specifics.

I suppose that the other option would be using a jointer plane (since I'm going to use the planer for bulk material removal)?


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## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

You only need to get one side flat enough so it doesn't rock, plane the other side flat and flip the board. So yes, any old plane will do. Or you could just skip the plane and tape wedges to the underside to make it stable until the top is flat.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

$35 is pretty good for a type 2 Millers Falls 18C. It'd be like picking one up for $25 off eBay when you factor in shipping, which would be a good deal.

You will have no problems edge jointing with a corrugated plane unless you are jointing very thin stock. The length won't be a problem unless you are working with fairly long boards (like 6+ feet). Paul Sellers uses a Stanley #4 for practically everything, and that's much shorter.

I personally like Millers Falls planes, a lot. They're just as good as the Stanleys, if not better.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

The price is not out of line and it could be restored. A #6 can be used for scrubbing boards if you camber the blade similar to what is recommended for jack although it is heavier.

Normally you joint one side of the board flat, joint an edge to 90 degrees, then plane the board to the correct thickness. The other edge would be cut to width on a table saw. You have to be careful if your only using a power planer that you do not make the board parallel but not flat (if that makes sense).


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## jacobgerlach (Jul 26, 2013)

Wayne - my understanding was that you can flatten one face with hand planes so that you have flat and parallel faces after the planer. This is really what I was asking in my last post - will this plane get the board flat enough to achieve this or would I need to flatten further with a jointer plane?


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

The length won't be a problem unless you are working with fairly long boards (like 6+ feet)

+1. I have a couple #6 size planes and absolutely love them for flattening and jointing. They are long enough for most tasks and I only break out the #8 jointer if the piece is really large. One of these is set up with a cambered iron and works great for initial flattening of rough or warped boards. The other has a straight iron and is used for jointing and final flattening right before hitting with a smoother.

There are some that do not like the #6 size, but it is one of my favorites and I find them to be incredibly useful.


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## Tugboater78 (May 26, 2012)

It should suffice, and millers falls are good planes


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## TerryDowning (Aug 8, 2012)

Lots of options for flattening stock if you have a power planer.

A jig to hold the board in reference to flatten one side then flip it flatten the other side.

Wedges as mentioned.

Prep one side by hand as mentioned by you. It doesn't have to be glassy smooth or show quality, just flat enough to serve as a reference for the opposite side being planed.

Another name for the 18" planes like the #6 Stanley and the MF #18 is the fore plane who's role in life is rough stock preparation. The #6 and MF#18 are much maligned planes, bigger and less maneuverable than a jack not as large or heavy as a jointer so the reference may not be as accurate and it doesn't get as much momentum. Blah Blah Blah

I have a #6C and use it for jointing edges (I don't have a Jointer plane yet). According to my straight edge the edges come out flat and true. Many itinerant craftsman like my Grandfather (the source of most of my planes) used the #6 in place of the larger jointers since it was less weight to lug around and did the job adequately. Please do keep in mind that Gramps did mostly construction grade work and not fine furniture. So using the #6 as a jointer was an "it's good enough" situation. YMMV depending on your final project. I can't complain about the results i have achieved with Gramps' #6C.

Miller's Falls planes are good solid user planes. I have a #9 (smoother), a #14 (Jack) and a #7 skewed rabbet block plane. MF -lanes typically have these desired qualities: Good steel in the blades that take and hold an edge; soles and sides typically have enough mass to be flattened and squared; the frog beds are machined; and the frogs are cast. I would welcome a MF #18 and happily put it to use. Depending on condition and location $35 may be a fair price. If there is damage or missing parts don't be afraid to haggle.

Good luck.


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## jacobgerlach (Jul 26, 2013)

I ended up picking this up. Thanks to all who replied with advice.

The tote looks like it was epoxy repaired at some point - a crack runs all the way around.

The japanning is pretty much 100%, but I wouldn't be able to tell the difference between original and a restoration somewhere along the way.

Everything else looks pretty nice - very little rust, a little dust and dirt on the frog.

I can already tell that the blade will need some work - a couple small dings at the edge, uneven from left to right:









I stopped by Lowe's on the way home to get a granite tile to try sandpaper sharpening. Even though I asked the guy in the tile dept, I found out when I got to the register that you have to buy them by the carton. As an apology, the guy gave me an 18×18 sample from a discontinued line that he had saved from the dumpster!

I know there's a wealth of information about scary sharp out there (I'm about to start reading more of it), but if anyone has recommendations on what grit to start and finish with, I'd appreciate hearing those. Looks like Lowe's tops out around 600 grit. Do you guys get the higher stuff exclusively at woodworking stores?


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

You should be able to get higher grit wet dry sandpaper at auto parts stores if the hardware stores don't have it. Most will carry up to 2000 grit in with the body repair stuff.


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## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

ACE sells individual sheets much higher, and so do most auto parts stores.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

And read up on the paper. You'll want wet dry. I know a lot of guys buy from Lee Valley.


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## RandallCombs1988 (10 mo ago)

I have tons of planes if u want some message me on Facebook. I have Bailey's, millers falls, belknap bluegrass, liberty bell Stanley, tons of them. My Facebook user name is KaylaRandall Combs. Anytime.


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

I have both a MillerFalls and an old Bedrock #5. Once tuned up, I find both are fine. IMHO, only need to jump to the really nice planes is for your smoother and block. My #7 is an old Stanley. It says Bailey but the more crude frog adjustment. Once set up, you don't adjust a planer much anyway. I went to a WoodRiver for my smoother to see if it was better than my old Bailey, and once tuned, no difference. Tuning the WoodRiver ( bedrock design) is easier. I have a couple of Taytools rebate planes that are OK I guess, but never used any other so I don't know.

I quit the sand-paper sharpening mess. Now I am just about using the 1200 diamond and 16,000 Sharpton stone. MDF with stropping compound. I have not splurged on a CBN wheel for rough bevel grinding but it is on my list. ( out of stock last time I looked)

I have been transitioning from power to hand tools for finish. Even with the Lux head in my planer, I still need to hit it with my #4. Really, using as little sandpaper as possible. Planes and scrapers worked for 5000 years. Ever look closely at older museum pieces?

FWIW, I use Hock irons in my old planes. Not that they cut much better, but the old irons were pitted. I did have to open the mouth of one of them.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

If you want my opinion, I would bypass the granite and paper and go straight to diamond plates. In the long run they can be cheaper than the paper. They are also faster as you can sharpen on the push and pull stroke. Paper will tend to tear on the push stroke. If the edge is not square you may benefit from a cheap Eclipse style holder to square up the leading edge if needed. I went from wet stones to paper on float glass (scary Sharp) and now on diamond plates. I wish I had started on the plates.

Whatever you choose, get that plane honed and tuned. I have been working with planes using winding sticks and straight edge to get my boards trued just for the fun and challenge. I sold my power jointer and haven't fired up the planner in months.


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## yamato72 (Apr 5, 2021)

Guys… you're replying to 9-yr-old thread, resurrected by a spammer.


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## AMZ (Jan 27, 2020)

I like MF better than Stanley Bedrocks, provided they have the articulated lever cap. Equal in most ways to Stanley, and the lever cap is far superior.


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