# Where can I buy Pumice and Rottenstone



## CanadaJeff (Jul 8, 2008)

I'm finally starting to learn the value of a good finish and interested in using pumice and rottenstone to really bring out a nice sheen on my projects, however I am not able to find pumice or rottenstone anywhere.

For those who know or own it, where can you buy it? I have checked out Lowes, HD, Lee Valley, and hardware stores, but haven't been able to find it. Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong section of these stores.

Any help is appreciated.

Cheers
Jeff


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## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

Jeff,

Try here.

Herb


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## joek30296 (Jul 21, 2010)

I don't know if they still carry it or not but I bought pumice and rottenstone years ago at Sherwin-Williams paint stores. Something that usually works just as well, however, is coarse (red) and fine (white) automotive rubbing compound. I've used both to rub out lacquer finishes on furniture. Be careful with the red though, you'll rub through pretty quick.

Just my 2 cents.
joe


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## zonkers (Aug 18, 2010)

I'm a newbie here and a novice wood worker. That said, I own a classic car resto shop. Our paint jobs are all about the wet sand and buffing. Although I have yet to use our system on wood finishes I have spoken to lots of woodworker who have and tell me it works great. The grit levels we use on auto paint systems might not apply directly to wood finish but it may help you get the gist of it. A way to test your grits is to apply your finish onto something clear like Plexiglas and then experiment with different grits. We start with as low as 800 grit and work up to 3000 grit wet sand paper. Keep cleaning the paper in the bucket of water so that loose grit doesn't scratch the surface. Next step is the liquid compound, we start with the "coarse cut" first. I'm not sure what the grit is but it removes the 3000 grit sand marks. The next stage is polish. This product is about half as abrasive as the coarse cut. The final stage is swirl remover. This is very fine and removes the swirl marks left by the power buffer. All three of these steps do polish and level the surface as you go along. We used heavy duty buffers to work the liquid materials and if the tech does not know what he is doing he will burn thru the clear coat in seconds and ruin a very expensive paint job. Not all compounds are the same! Straight up, there is a lot of polishing products out there that are junk. 3M makes the best and also is the most expensive. Also watch out for finger marks transmitting thru the sandpaper and however you apply the compound. A cheap source for these supplies: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/


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## rwyoung (Nov 22, 2008)

Lee Valley lists Rottenstone in their catalog:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=20058&cat=1,190,43040

as well as pumice:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=20059&cat=1,190,43040

Woodcraft also carries it.


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## Jonnyfurniture (Aug 29, 2010)

Constantines


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## RogerBean (Apr 25, 2010)

In my experience Tom Coster's comments are on the money. The modern abrasives and polishing compounds from the automotive industry are vastly superior. All polishing operations, whether for metal, plastic, glass, or wood finishes are accomplished by a methodical application of progressively finer abrasives. The new stuff works a lot better and offers more control than pumice and rottenstone. It's probably why the old stuff is getting harder to find. Good luck with your polishing.
Roger


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