# Sliding Miter Station - so deep!



## toddbeaulieu

I'd love to hear how you have dealt with the depth requirements of a slider. I'm planning a new station and really wanted it against a wall, rather than in the center. When I factor in the sliding depth, a dust hood and an extra inch for a fence on the saw itself, it's …. DEEP! If I put a deep counter like this in, would I regret it? Do any of you have feedback with such a setup?

Behind the fence: 23".
From the fence to the cutting capacity: 15"

That's 38"!

I suppose I could have the saw stick out and not provide a platform for the full 15", but to get it down to 30", I'd have just 7" left. Sure, that's enough for 99% of my cross cutting, I'm guessing, but it means an entire wall consumed for a 7" surface!

I'm sure I could find a way to use all that space behind the fence, like with cubbies and then cabinets, etc. The setup I'm think of is the Norm Abrams one, with cabinets and drawers under it. I need the storage.

Oh, and I'd really REALLY hate to cut a hole in the wall!


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## ShaneA

They take up a lot of space. Do you already have the saw? I think the Hitachi and newer Bosch saws require a little less space. A hole in the wall gets back 4", could be useful. Maybe just try to make the best multi use of the space as you suggested. Drawers, cubbies, extra work surface, things like that. But what do I know? I still have the same unresolved problem too.


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## richgreer

I read this and then walked down to my shop to measure my set up. It is 20" from the fence to the wall.

As you probably know, there are sliders that do not need as much clearance in the back. I can think of 3 (Hitachi, Bosch and Festool) but they are all quite pricy.

In my own case, I am okay with my current setup, but not thrilled with it. If I ever need to replace my miter saw (a 10" Makita SCMS) I will probably go back to a non-sliding 12" saw. I'm not convinced that I really need the extra capacity of a slider.


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## Bobsboxes

I had the Bosch slider and I build a cabinet 40" deep, I really didn't like the use of space. And I traded with a contractor, and ended up with a new 12" Bosch and it has worked good for me. I really liked the slider, but it was to big for my garage shop. The new ones are super, but with a big cost also.


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## unisaw2

My 10" Makita miter saw top is 30" deep, and the saw sticks out about 6". I used the space behind the saw for a dust collection box. Dust collection is decent. Still need to trap more dust, without interfearing with the miter/bevel movements.


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## jusfine

There aren't too many options I have found unless you go to Kapex (Festool) where the rails project to the front, and there is virtually no additional room required behind the saw.

I have a Kapex and the 12" Milwaukee, the Milwaukee sticks out 8" past front of table, nothing else I can do but turn the saw to 45 degrees when not using it so it doesn't get bumped.

I like the dust collection in the photo above, should help a lot.


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## MashMaster

I like the dust collection box behind it.


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## JAAune

We use a Kapex as well so this is no longer an issue. With the old DeWalt, though we just had to pull it away from the wall and leave it there. In order to make the best possible use of space, we had drawers directly under the saw. The extensions on either side were supported on the ends so there was space underneath to put rolling carts and/or a garbage can to hold the cutoffs. A couple box fans would get stored in the space between the saw cabinet and the wall.

There was also a large, semi-circular dust hood behind the saw.


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## renners

My FIL's cabinet/stand for the Dewalt 12" slider has two casters at the back, so it's just a case of lifting it at the front and pulling to move it easily from the wall.


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## Nighthawk

My old shop before I moved to thy own house… I had the mitre saw on a sliding locking pull out becnch. When it was no in use I stored at 45. It didn't save a lot of space, but it meant the bench it was on didn't have to be so wide and take up vauable space I didn't have.

In my new shop lost the floor but gained a space (eventually when I can afford to get it all done) and the mitre saw will just sit in its current position anyway and simply has the rom to move. Another option is to buy a mitre (selling the sliding) I have found that I can do 99.9 per-cent of the cuts on the table saw… and really the mitre saw isn't really needed… he only different is that the mitre saw is quicker to set up.


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## UglySteve

I have the Bosh 12" slider and built the new yankee miter box and storage. Cut a hole in the wall of my garage into the back yard about 44" wide and 20" tall. Then I built a box that hangs on the outside of the garage to keep out the weather. Works great, but I have to repair it when I move. May be getting the Kapex soon so we'll see.


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## 559dustdesigns

toddbeaulieu I agree with uglysteve. With most saws the only way to gain more slider room is to build out the other side of the wall. 
Some people just don't have the space or they don't want to alter their walls of their shop. 
I found an interesting storage solution in a youtube video which has one of those new bosch glide saws. If you'd like skip to 2min25sec.


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## 559dustdesigns

Hey UglySteve Will you post a blog of your mitersaw station that you described above. I would love to see it. I too have been kicking around the idea of building out the side of my shop to accommodate my siding miter saw.


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## toddbeaulieu

Lots of good input. Thank you all. I spent Sunday looking through designs here and elsewhere, while designing the station in sketchup. It's a work in progress, subject to change considerably.

I'm now thinking of a hybrid approach for clearance, wherein I'll open up a hole on the interior wall, but it won't breach the exterior. That will give me 5.5+ inches, which is better than nothing.

Attached is an early preview of what I'm thinking of. I believe I'm still going to end up with a deep cabinet in order to have surface in front of the track … which I really think I want. I believe I can come up with some really cool uses for the space behind the track, such as "cubbies", battery charging, wall cabinets, etc. At this moment, the unit (top) is 31" deep and 12' long.

I loved the idea of incorporating the mortising machine into the track so it's readily available. I could also eliminate the crummy hold down that came with my Jet, in favor of more robust option as I design how that mounts up.

This is looking like a real beast, but the idea is build each section seperately.


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## jusfine

^ That looks great, but I would move the cubby holes so they are not directly under the saw, less sawdust gets in drawers..


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## davekennedy

todd if you would like I can send you the measurement for the bench I just finished.


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## dbhost

I don't have one of those high brow brand sliders, so mine takes quite a bit of depth. Specifically 30" from the front of the front leg, to the back of the saw when fully extended. A typical bench is 24", going the extra 6" is actually pretty nice for storage space IF you can afford the depth… For me it seems to help more than it hurts…

Remember, you don't need to go all the way to the front of the saw for a miter station. Just out to the front legs of the saw…


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## toddbeaulieu

The cubbies in my plan are for cutoffs. I saw someone here do that and love the idea.

David, I'm very interested in learning more about what you did. I'm hoping to make mine better than all of yours by stealing from you!


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## unisaw2

I believe Fine Woodworking magazine had a plan for a 24" deep top that slid out another 6" when in use. The entire top was moved with full extension drawer hardware if I rememeber correctly.


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## davekennedy

Just let me know and iwill send you sizes. I still need to build dust box for miter saw and storage @ rear of counters. Also drawers and door. The space directly below the miter saw is for shorts.


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## toddbeaulieu

Oh my. That is an interesting twist, JJ. I'm going to think that one through. Thank you!


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## zoepup

I have a large storage area behind mine. I built a "window" into that area. I then surrounded the protruding section in the storage area with shelves to hold even more stuff. This is an uncompleted view of it from front, but close enough to get idea.


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## 1yeldud1

zoepup - i really like your idea - has anyone ever thought about a stand similar to yours that would allow you to "stand" the saw on its "nose" or "tail" when not in use ? possibly bolting the saw to a surface and rotating it like they do for the flip top machine stands - does this make sense ?


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## zoepup

I like the rotating idea if you need the space. My stand has two wings on it that have large triangular supports to hold them up. I can flip them down. 
As for tilting the saw into the wall, I think it will stick out a good 11-18" (at least mine will). My bench is only 24" deep. However, I love small shop space saving ideas as I had a small one for many years.


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## 1yeldud1

I have a sliding compound miter saw that I hardly use - what i was thinking could a person take a stand like yours and mount the saw on a "panel" that had a set of hinges on the top back corner and a set of "Handles" on the front surface. That panel with the saw mounted, could be rigged to pivot the front of the saw downward until it was actually vertical instead of horizontal. Would this not allow the saw to take up less "table space" - basically storing the saw in a cabinet directly below where it was mounted


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## JAAune

I designed a chopsaw station for the workplace a couple weeks ago. I'll get the file tomorrow and post it just in case it sparks some useful ideas.

It's more geared for a professional shop with multiple employees so I've got provisions for a scrap bin and dust collection setup built into the thing. Not really sure if the former is that useful for the average shop.


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## JAAune

Forgot to fetch the drawing before coming home. I'll try to get it tomorrow.


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## JAAune

Here are the pictures.



















The cutout on the left side is to permit a small dust collector to fit behind the saw station.

The bin and funnel system on the right are for cutoffs destined for the burn pile.

The narrow cabinet on the left holds cordless drills, batteries, chargers and a jigsaw.


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## toddbeaulieu

Thank you for posting the pictures. I continue to tinker with the design. The drawer slides are going to break the bank. I might do the carcass and top first and come back around, filling in the drawers as the budget allows.


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## unisaw2

Todd,

Just happened to see the Fine Woodworking idea on the sliding table. It is in vol 222 page 14.


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## toddbeaulieu

The only mag I currently get is from woodcraft (which I love).

I guess I should pick one or two others …


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## waho6o9

Festool Kapex.
http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/sliding-compound-mitre-saw/c/1007/
http://www.festoolusa.com/images/featureviews/561287-Left.jpg


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## stefang

I made a sliding torsion box table to mount my Sliding miter saw to. As you see in the picture, I have it pulled out. It can be pushed all the way in to the countertop front. I've had it for two years and I find it a great space saver in my narrow shop as it can be pushed in when not in use. The table slides between two rails mounted on each side of the counter opening.

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## toddbeaulieu

Mike, That's an interesting idea.

I have a number of options in front of me. Probably the biggest decision is whether to build a track on the bench, or use the bench surface entirely, with the saw recessed. I'm leaning towards the latter because it would give me more available surface.

I need to figure out definitively how much area the rear of the saw introdudes when push fully back and at angles to see what I'd need for a recess in the wall, if I did that.

I'm thinking the final solution might be a combination of concepts. For instance, if I built a shorter box for under the saw I could pull it out a bit if I needed to make an angled cut. This assumes I'm unable to get the needed clearance with a hole in the wall.

I'm so new to woodworking that whatever I do is a best guess, as I have no practical experience to form these decisions. It's great to see the different approaches people have taken.

When I bought my 12" Makita I was unaware of reticulating saws. I didn't realize I'd have mounting issues, either. But frankly, I wouldn't have spent $1,300 on a saw. I understand the value of engineering and quality, but I'm house poor and need to spread my money out. The cost of material over the past year has killed my tool budget!


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## MoPower

Some good Ideas here. I'm still setting up my new shop and have been avoiding this issue until now. I think you guys have given me some good ideas to start with.


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## crank49

Could a CSMS be actually used in a vertical orientation?
I mean with the base bolted to the wall and the fence becoming the horizontal support?
Would probably need some counterweight to help pull the sliding part up.
I'm just thinking out loud here.


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## jaydubya

crank49….. thats an interesting idea


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## ssnvet

go online and sign up for the free two week trial of FWW online.

The article for the SCMS workstation is available to download as a .pdf (along with a lot of other stuff)

I have the Milwaukee 10" SCMS and have always liked it. I used it a lot for 15 years worth of building projects. But now that I have it set up in my shop, I'm thinking that a non-sliding chop saw would do the trick just fine.

I'm not cutting to many 2×12s these days.


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## MrRon

I think my setup is ideal, at least for me. I have a regular 10" miter saw against the wall and next to it a 10" radial arm saw. The total depth is 16" from the wall + another 10" for the RAS table. They are positioned so they use a common fence.


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