# Pop Quiz - How would you make this cut?



## live4ever (Feb 27, 2010)

In the shop we are often faced with a task and multiple ways to perform the task. That decision point, which we go through tens of times every day in the shop, can have huge implications not just for the satisfactory result of the task but also our safety.

I recently had the simple decision of how to do the following and I'd like you to choose your own adventure. How would you do it in your shop with your tools?

You want to 45-degree bevel one edge of a 3/4" thick 2×2" workpiece.

*NOTE: Try not to look at other responses before you answer. Just ask yourself how you'd do it and post your reply. If you just agree with another poster it's really no fun.*

As Charlie points out, I left out a key detail - the depth of the cut is all the way through the 3/4", as in making a mating bevel on a french cleat block.


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## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

I would cut that on the bandsaw. Being that small I might try the scroll saw but I don't know if it goes to that angle. Bandsaw seems safest otherwise.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

I would tilt the bed on the Ridgid sander to 45 degrees, slide the miter gauge into the track (to give me something to hold it against straight), then gently feed it into the belt until I see it reach the top corner. Total time about 30 seconds. Fingers (and the skin that covers them): intact.


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## Nighthawk (Dec 13, 2011)

Depends on the wood hard or softwood… but most likely I would go to the band saw (if I had one…) but in this case since that it is still on my wish list (but hopefull for not to much longer… the scroll saw would also work… being so small a cut possible hand cut it… but it depends what the part was for and how accurate I have to be with the cut.

However I would have most likely put the bevel on it before it was cut down to (converting imperial to metric and back again) ermmmm size and most likely on the table saw with a jig or even mitre saw, and then cut my shape…


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

I have a sliding jig I use on the TS for small cuts. Guess I'd use that


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## miles125 (Jun 8, 2007)

I'd do the bevel on the jointer to long lengths before ever cutting them into 2" long pieces.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Router table, long stock (or a small parts holder) and a 45 bevel bit.


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## MrAl (Sep 3, 2007)

Table saw.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Mark it with a gauge, plane with a cambered #5 until close, finish with a smoothing plane. 90 seconds or less, no safety concerns.


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## bent (May 9, 2008)

spokeshave


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## kizerpea (Dec 2, 2011)

table saw…push stick..or custom push board..more than one way to skin a cat!


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I can't answer without know how deep of a cut we're talking about. If it's fairly shallow, I would do it on the router table with a 45 degree chamfering bit.


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

If possible, I would have beveled it on the TS before the piece was cut so small.

Otherwise, I would use a hand plane.


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## bunkie (Oct 13, 2009)

I would hot-melt glue the workpiece to a longer board and cut it on the tablesaw.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

Others have said that they would make the 45 cut while the piece were still bigger and cut it down to size later. I agree with that. But sometimes that is not an option. Hence I offer how I would do it if I did not have the option of making the cut earlier.

I would cut a scrap piece of larger wood with a 45-degree angle, clamp that piece to the sled for my TS and clamp the small piece to the scrap block I had made.

Also - by drilling a hole into the scrap piece, I would be able to securely clamp the small piece to the scrap piece using a clamp like this

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17821&filter=table%20saw%20fence%20clamp

Note, these clamps are handy for a number of applications other than just adding a sacrificial board to your TS fence.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

router table with a 45/bevel cutter and a push block/sled. since it's just 3/4" thick material this would be the easiest, safest, and cleanest cut


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

I would use a miter box and a back saw. Nothing wrong with using hand tools when the needed.


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## CampD (Nov 8, 2008)

If I knew that I needed that cut and size of piece at the begining of the project.
I would first cut the 45 on the miter saw and then to length,
If realizing I needed a chamfer on that small of piece I would attach it to a sacarificial board (either double sided tape or hot melt) and then cut it on the miter saw.
or lastly, hand plan it.


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## KnickKnack (Aug 20, 2008)

I think I'd use this jig.


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

Put it up against the fence, hold securely, raise the blade into the piece. Practice run first to make sure you won't cut your fingers off.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

Table saw.


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

If bevelling it when it's bigger isn't an option, I'd grab any piece of sheet good about a foot long and 6" wide, and a scrap of 3/4×2x6 or so. First rip a parallel edge onto the 12" long piece with the blade at 90. Then screw the second piece to it. Square up the far edge of this piece to the ripped edge. Put it about mid-length. Tilt the blade to your bevel angle and rip a little more off, so you get the angle on both pieces. Place the workpiece along the far edge of the cross piece, lined up so the previously cut edge is right where you want the cut, secure it with a quick-grip clamp and make the cut. This is just a quick and dirty throwaway panel sled.


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## jusfine (May 22, 2010)

If it is solid material, tablesaw then jointer, maybe the bandsaw then jointer.

I misread the info, thought it was 2' x 2"when I first answered. too small for jointer, would use hand plane instead.


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## nbistecche (Dec 28, 2011)

table saw. if too unsafe, disc sander, tiliting the table of course.


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

Table saw with sled. Simple, accurate, safe and fast.


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## ShopTinker (Oct 27, 2010)

I'd put a small clamp on it for a handle, to control the piece after the cut, use a scrap piece to push it through the table saw.


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

Sorry folks, I seem to have a stalker


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## NANeanderthal (Jun 2, 2011)

Mark it, scrub close to the line, hit line with smoother with straight iron


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

I run small stuff like that through the table saw by using a scrap board with a screw through it. But that only works if the screw hole you will leave in one side of the piece can be hidden. Otherwise I would use a bandsaw to get it close and a handplane jig to make it perfect.

(I followed the dierections and didn't read any other comments, hope I didn't make myself look like a moron…)


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## DLCW (Feb 18, 2011)

A 3/4" thick 2×2? That sounds a little odd actually. Did I miss something on the dimensions in the original post?

If it is a 3/4" thick board 2" wide, I would rough cut it on the bandsaw using the bandsaw fence as a holder/guide for the piece and then do a finishing pass on the jointer with the fence tilted 45 degrees.


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## paratrooper34 (Apr 27, 2010)

mitre vise and block plane.


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## SignWave (Feb 2, 2010)

For variety:
table saw + fence + Grripper.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I would throw that 2" piece int he scrap box and get a larger piece to make the cut on. then cut it to 2". I just wouldn't cut a piece (or joint) that small. Too many things can happen too fast.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Just cut it with the bandsaw with the workpiece standing on end and the table flat at 90 degrees to the blade.


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

If I had only one piece to cut. I would just clamp it to the fence on the RAS or SCMS to make the cut.


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## Jacoblucas (Sep 28, 2011)

On something so small I'd use the jointer set at 45 degrees, its pretty dummy proof. It it was bigger I'd go to the table saw.


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## KentS (May 27, 2009)

I would rip a longer board, cut the 45 on the table saw, and then cut the 2" length. Even if I totally waste material, it sure beats "wasting" my finger.

The other alternative would be to clamp it in my table saw sled, but I could do it much faster with the first method.

(I did not look at anyone elses answer before responding-now I am going to go back and look)


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

masking tape to hold it to a waste piece, clamp both to the fence on the miter saw. Turn blade table to 45 degrees, chop down. Clean up the good piece.


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## JSilverman (Mar 31, 2011)

I would cut the bevel on a 2" wide long board, then cross cut 2" pieces off of that


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

I believe that the minimum board length for my jointer is 10".


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## Norman1 (Oct 28, 2010)

I would make the cut with my band saw by tilting the saw table and using a clamped piece of scrap as a guide fence. Once the cut is complete I would hand plane the two pieces until I'm happy with the fit and finish.


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## Tomj (Nov 18, 2011)

I was in this situation not to long ago for a french cleat I was going to use for a towel rack. I just super glued it to a wider board and cut it on my table saw. A little sanding and and it was like the super glue had never been there. Although the super glue could mess up your finish so glue at your own risk.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

BTW for you guys that suggested the jointer - the safety rules say you should never try to joint any board shorter than 12 inches long….just saying.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

if its one edge………cut on the TS, then re-cut to length

small pieces…….on a sled jig, with a router/table/shaper/TS


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

Really good topic; I'm embarrassed to admit that I've tried such a cut on my MS in the past, and almost cut my fingers off doing so. I think I'd probably try and plan to bevel a longer piece eg. 6"x2" and then cut it to 2" long. If I absolutely had to cut it when it was 2×2, I'd use a handsaw.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

IF the 45 bevel is along an EDGE grain, just my handplane will do. Mark the bevel on each end, and connect across the "face". Clamp up in a vise, with just enough room to work the plane. Start at the waste's corner, and plane down until all the lines are split. A nice , smooth bevel cut, ready to go…...where?


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