# Tips for scrolling marquetry?



## leftcoaster (Jan 1, 2016)

I got a DeWalt SS for a good price and thought I'd try my hand at some double bevel marquetry. I have a marquetry package from a veneer house and the pieces are generally 0.5 to 0.6 mm thick. That's half a mm not 5 mm.

I installed an Olson skip tooth No. 2 with 20 TPI, labeled as good for marquetry starting at 3/32" ( considerably more than I have. ). Not a good choice

I also tried a Spiral No 0 with 46 TPI with 360 degree cutting capability, which sounds good. This seems like the right blade, right?

My practice cuts are cracking on multiple species with either blade. The veneer flaps around a lot which is obviously going to stress the wood.

Pretty sure the problem lies between the blade and my seat (ie me/technique).

How do I control the flapping?

How fast should I run the blade?

Are there different strategies for cutting crossgrain that I need to employ?

What other tips do experienced LJs have for a novice scroller?


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## Davevand (Feb 10, 2016)

I'm not sure I would try cutting something that thin with a scroll saw. Whenever I cut thin stock I always sandwich it with a pieces of scrap thin plywood. I would use a 0/2 or smaller jewelers blade and cut very slow. The few times I have cut veneers I use a sharp razor blade.


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

I do lots of double bevel inlay on my scroll saw. (thousands) I inlay hard maple into eastern red cedar mostly. Each is 3/8" thick. I use a #5 blade. I also inlay other woods like oak, bubinga and walnut. All 3/8" thick. When I use veneer I glue it to another wood to make up 3/8"and inlay it that way.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I use single ply cardboard like from beer boxes as a backer. You can buy thicker single ply for scrapbooking but I tried both and it's not necessary. I've just done a little of this so you might want to experiment.

You can put masking tape over any trouble areas of your pattern and it will support the top or at the least keep the pieces together.


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## leftcoaster (Jan 1, 2016)

> I use single ply cardboard like from beer boxes as a backer. You can buy thicker single ply for scrapbooking but I tried both and it s not necessary. I ve just done a little of this so you might want to experiment.
> 
> You can put masking tape over any trouble areas of your pattern and it will support the top or at the least keep the pieces together.
> 
> - Loren


Tape makes sense. How do you affix the veneer to your cardboard backer? If not at the edge, it seems likely to have the same flapping problem - now flapping on top of the cardboard.


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## leftcoaster (Jan 1, 2016)

Anybody able to comment on saw speed?


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Well, it depends on how big your pieces are. I've just done smaller things with the technique. I bought a bunch of cheep poplar veneer in about 11×14" size on ebay to learn with before wasting expensive veneer. I don't remember exactly what I've done but I had some success doing it more or less like I described.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

You need 2/0 blades at the most. 
Back your veneer with veneer tape or newsprint/hide glue (which amounts to veneer tape but cheaper) to prevent splintering. 
Work very slowly and support the cut very close to the blade.

…… or build a chevalet and make it easy….

Seriously, there are lots of people doing DB marquetry in thin veneer and lots of books. Do some research online.
Personally I don't do DB and find the chevalet FAAAAAR easier to work with.


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