# locking miter router bit



## jacob34 (Mar 14, 2012)

I am getting ready to build a blanket chest and while doing so purchased a new router table which of coarse made me start looking to purchase new router bits. I ran across a locking miter bit and thought it would work nicely with my project. I am curious if anyone has used the bit and if it is as strong in larger projects as say a rabbet. Thanks in advance.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

I have used one for the legs on a side/end table. I bought a Freud brand bit, and used it in Oak. It's a large bit, and has to hog off a lot of wood. Requires a lot of time to set up, and can't really "sneak up" on it either, due to the perfect setup required. You also have to have a variable speed router, as with something that large you'll have to slow it down.

I never tested the strength on it, but looks better to me than a rabbet for table legs. That was the main reason I got it. Wanted a mitered leg so the joint was on the corner, but wanted a "stronger" joint than just the two faces glued together. Whether or not it's stronger, or worth it, I can't confirm.


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## jacob34 (Mar 14, 2012)

So as I have router with no speed control you would not recommend me purchasing it? I think it would look better as well and why I am looking into it.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

You should be able to sneak up on the final depth of cut by moving the router table fence. 
Either way, I would want a 2+hp router with variable speed.

What part of the project is it for? Legs?


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## PaulJerome (Feb 4, 2010)

For the amount of time you'd spend setting up, you'd be better off with a splined miter.


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## AlanBienlein (Jan 29, 2011)

Just order this from Infinity tools and all of your set up problems will go away. I've used it and it works as advertised perfectly! Lock miter master No need for set up blocks ever again. And here is a link to a blog about how to use it.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Yes, you will need variable speed of some sort. The bit I bought said to not run it any higher than a specific RPM, which was lower than what my non-variable speed router would do by quite a bit. And as Willie said, higher HP is also a very good idea.

With regards to what Willie said, you can sneak up on it, but it's a huge pain to do unless you set up some kind of specific stop to adjust the fence to when it's at "full depth". Then having to set up the bit for the other cut as well. It takes quite a lot of time, so as such, I would agree with Paul.

Edit: That infinity setup jig looks pretty slick. You can see how it would be a pain to "sneak up" on it…


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## jacob34 (Mar 14, 2012)

Alan that is just cool. pinto I wanted to use it to joint the sides together.


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## jacob34 (Mar 14, 2012)

can I assume that like with rail and style bits that quality is important for fit.


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## danr (Sep 5, 2009)

Yes the setup jig lookis cool. 
I wont buy one. 
With a good dial caliper and patients a person can set up the bit just fine. 
As has allready been mentioned, a powerful router set at a slow speed is reuired (see bit instructions for details). 
I always cut these joints in one pass (no sneaking up). 
Also, I always use a carrier / jig to hold the peice being run. I have only used the joint to make Stickley legs.

I have never questioned the joint's strength as you are getting a huge ammount of glue surface.

Best regards


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## SteveKnnn (Mar 25, 2013)

Anyone near Richmond, the local Woodcraft store has a locking miter demo this Saturday @ 1:00 pm (5/25/13)


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

There's also drawer lock bits. It's a variation on 
the rabbet that shares some of the alignment
geometry with the lock miter.


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

Kind of surpised that nobody has mentioned this. If you do a little testing (and you should) once you gfet it perfect, you can make simple setup blocks so you repeat the setup and get it right every time.


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## jacob34 (Mar 14, 2012)

I am going to put a check by yes on the strength question. I want to use it to joint the sides of a blanket chest together and would think if you guys are using it on legs with no issues that a complete side would definitely be strong.

danr this maybe a stupid question but do you use a jig for safety, accuracy or both.


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## jacob34 (Mar 14, 2012)

Loren I have a set of the drawer lock bits, haven't used them yet. I like the look of the locking miter bit is why I ask versus the cabinet drawer lock bit.


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## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

Am I out of my mind?


> ?? I run all router bits at full speed with a 3 1/4hp PC. From the smallest round over to a 3 1/2" panel raiser. I have never had any problems. Can some one advise me why I should run them slow


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## jacob34 (Mar 14, 2012)

Do you get tear out if you run them at a higher speed? Or am I missing something as well?


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

I have scars on my left hand from a bit that came apart at high speed when I was about 23years old.. 
Luckily it only tore up two fingers where shrapnel went in one side and came out the other.
Took 27 stitches in two fingers.

A small piece, about half the size of a dime hit me in the chest and knocked me backwards about 3 feet. Left a huge bruise the size of a plate, and a nice imprint of the button it hit on the front of my shirt.

You guys can run your bits at any speed you want to. I'm following the recommended speed chart.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

I have that bit and have used it twice. I like it quite a lot. BTW..I just went to the site for that set-up tool. Man! They are PROUD of that little tool. I made my own with a piece of oak. It has worked both times.


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## AlanBienlein (Jan 29, 2011)

Kind of surpised that nobody has mentioned this. If you do a little testing (and you should) once you gfet it perfect, you can make simple setup blocks so you repeat the setup and get it right every time.

The nice thing about the jig is you can throw away those setup blocks you made. Those setup blocks are only good for stock that is the exact same thickness as the setup blocks.

As for dial calipers if you want to waste time with that method go ahead. All I now is my lock miter bit will see a lot more use since I got the new setup jig. No more sneaking up on it required.


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## AlanBienlein (Jan 29, 2011)

Here is a picture of a recent project I used the jig on and made the cuts on the actual pieces to be used. No test cuts were done.


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## gearupflapsup (Feb 11, 2013)

Just finished 4 posts for a mission oak bed. Really liked the bit and the joint. Very solid. Not bad to set up really I ran two test pieces and let it rip. lots of gluing surface and easy to clamp.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I bought one and used it once, 6 years ago. It does take a long time to get it right.


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## jacob34 (Mar 14, 2012)

I like the way that joint looks Alan.


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## diemaker (Jan 1, 2013)

I made 18 photo boxes a year or so ago, and was amazed how square they came out using this bit. my mat. was .50 oak so I used the 3/4" size cutter running full speed with no problem. Thanks for the heads up on that set up gage, I will look into that.


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## Fuzzy (Jun 25, 2007)

I especially like the "**Router Bit NOT Included*" disclaimer in the ad … at this price, I guess it would be easy for folks to expect one to be included.

I don't doubt that the device works, but come on … $60 + shipping for a stamped out & engraved chunk of aluminum ???


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## AlanBienlein (Jan 29, 2011)

Fuzzy said "I don't doubt that the device works, but come on … $60 + shipping for a stamped out & engraved chunk of aluminum ???"

If you take the time to read it is for both jigs as there is one for the larger lock miter bit and one for the smaller lock miter bit. They are offering them at this time for $49.90 for both of them. The regular price will be $59.80.

If you primarily use the larger or the smaller lock miter bit just order the appropriate jig for $29.90.

And yes its just an engraved and milled piece of anodized aluminum. But you have to remember that you have a specialty item here that might have limited sales so that does factor into the cost.


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## OnlyJustME (Nov 22, 2011)

Currently trying to set up/use a lock miter bit for some plywood shelf construction. Wish i saw those jigs before so i had them now. I think i'll try to make something similar like Gary and see how it goes. 
I found Stu's process helpful.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

If you value your time then I think the set up jig is well worth the cost. I have one on order so I don't have real time experience yet but from what I'm read from those who have it, it's a real time saver.

If you like to "tinker" then it's probably not for you.


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## danr (Sep 5, 2009)

jacob34,

"danr this maybe a stupid question but do you use a jig for safety, accuracy or both."

I guess the answer is that this is just the way that I learned how to do it. The jig is really more of a carrier. For the Stickley legs, each leg starts out as 4 pieces, 3/4 thick, and 2 inches wide (length is whatever is needed). I cut two of the pieces, wide side (2 inch side) down/up, and then the other two pieces standing on the 3/4 inch edge. I think it would be ok to not use the carrier for the wide side down but I would NOT make the standing on edge cut without it. So in the end, it is for safety. The guys I know that do production runs with shapers use the same technique for relatively "small" pieces like this.

As I said before, the bit setup is a little tricky but you can do it with some care.

Give it a try.


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