# Table saw safety advice needed: Repeated thin rips



## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

I really enjoy making cutting boards but I am having a little trouble figuring out the best way to cut the strips. I generally cut the individual strips at 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" depending on the board. I lock my fence down at one of the two mentioned settings and make the cuts. Because the fence is so close to the blade, I cannot use the blade guard or the kickback pawls. There simply isn't enough room between the rip fence.

I know what you are going to say - "use the GR-riper!" I tried and I can't for two reasons:

1 - some of the boards are wide, like 12 to 14". I don't feel like I have enough control. Yes, I could rip them in half first, however it messes up the grain patterns I am going for sometimes. Also the biggest reason:

2 - I am too short! The R4512 is kind of tall for a table saw. I am kind of short for a guy. With that combination, I can't really push the gripper all the way past the blade without over-reaching.

I currently use a puchstick like this one:









But I feel like I could have better control with other methods. Any ideas?


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

I use a simple 6-7" wide x ~ 12-14" long, rectangular 3/4" scrap birch plywood strip with a bottom cut in ~ a 1/2" to 3/4" deep "L". The tail of the "L" acts as a hook. The palm of my hand goes on top of the strip. The blade is raised to a height where the bottom of the gullets match the thickness of the stock.

It makes it really easy to push down and forward, and it was essentially free.

My current one is pretty, 'cause it's made from prefinished maple plywood.


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

You can always build yourself a step stool and some long-handled push sticks, but another good way is the rolling stuff I saw somewhere that acts as a featherboard and that pulls the wood towards the fence as it keeps it flat on the tablesaw's surface. I'm pretty sure some of the guys here will know what I'm talking about and will be able to give the name of that thing. Beats the GR-ripper for such a setup IMO.

OR, if you don't want to spend any money at all, you can always use a basic featherboard on the fence to keep the wood flat, and tilt your *whole* saw to the right side, and gravity will keep your lumber flat onto the fence. Just sayin'.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

I forgot to mention I definitely use a featherboard. I have enough reach with a push stick for this type of cut, I just don't feel as safe as I should. I generally make 20 to 30 cuts and when I am done with each one I count my digits. A step stool seems like a bad idea.


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## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

You could try something like this http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056&site=ROCKLER

Seems like you could build you own pretty easily too. You just bump the fence over with each cut and it keeps the main portion of the board between the fence and the blade.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I get the feeling you are not very comfortable around power tools, table saws in particular. I've been using saws for over 50 years and still have all 10 fingers. I don't use a blade guard. The only safety device I use is a wood push stick. I rip lumber strips as thin as 1/4" with never a problem. I treat my saw the same as driving a car. I obey the rules of the road; I know what my car is capable of, and that knowledge keeps me safe. I'm not suggesting you throw caution to the wind. Do whatever you feel comfortable with, but don't depend on after market safety devices to keep you safe. To be really safe around dangerous power tools, is to know your tool intimately and respect what it can do. Safety is a frame of mind; common sense being the ruling force.


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## harrywho (Jul 20, 2009)

You might look at Rocklers Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig. It allows you to cut on the left side of the blade. I have an older model but it works great. Actually when I just looked at their site it's on sale for $18.99.
Good luck!
Just saw John posted the same suggestion.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

I have a very healthy respect for my table saw. I wouldn't say I am uncomfortable around it, but I know what it is capable of. I've had a few cuts where the wood was so stressed it clamped shut on the riving knife and I had to shut the saw down free it. Those are the kinds of situations I wish I had a little more between my hand and the blade. I also know there has to be a safer way to make these cuts.

John, That looks like a great idea. Exactly what I was looking for


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

Harry, I'm just going to make one. I have the track that goes in the miter slot from a featherboard already, and a few old router it bearings. Looks like a fun little project


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Featherboard and a longer push stick. Or, a sacrificial push "block.".

I'm all for safety, but this is one of those applications where a push stick isn't a bad idea.


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## nwbusa (Feb 21, 2012)

I had to rip some 3/4" strips out of maple the other day, and since I had to rip quite a few I locked my fence down at that dimension. Then I looked real hard at the saw. 3/4" is not very dang far away from the blade, and my push stick is about 1/2" wide, meaning I had roughly 1/4" of space between the push stick and the blade. You better believe I was watching the cut with both eyes. Of course I could have just kept resetting the fence and made my cuts on the other side of the blade, but I just took it slow and easy and maintained control over the board through every cut. I guess everyone needs to determine for themselves what feels safe when using their saw.

I also use a 4512, and I ditched the blade guard and pawls almost from day one. To me, they seemed to hinder my visibility and made me feel *less* safe. Again, to each his own. The riving knife, though, I wouldn't do without.


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## Sodabowski (Aug 23, 2010)

Guys, did you ever consider making a sled with hold-down toggle clamps BTW? This could solve such cases.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

I really do not want to tell you to remove blade guard or riving knife, BUT some cuts on a saw are safer without them ! *(ONLY YOU SHOULD DECIDE THAT FOR YOURSELF)*
You also mentioned you cannot reach past the blade. This concerns me, a push stick works well when material is pushed well past the blade. I would consider making a "STABLE" platform in front of you saw tostand on. EVEN 3-4 inches high will make all the difference.. I do NOT think a stool is the answer either.I am certain people that work from wheel chair run into same scenario's as being a shorter person. THE WHOLE goal is to be comfortable doing what you are doing.


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## knotheadswoodshed (Jun 14, 2012)

buy or make a thin rip guide, thats what I use when making my strips for cutting boards and I find it works quite well. It also eliminates any burning issues.


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## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

I'm gonna second the step stool being a bad idea, seems unstable and dangerous. From the pics of the saw it seems like it would be easy to modify the saw with a hacksaw and drill. Literally cut 6" off the legs and shorten up the pieces that make up the wheel assembly. A sharp metal bit would let you move the wheels up 6". That will solve your reach issue.
For the strips I use 2 sticks of scrap wood that have cut outs on the end and set the fence to the desired width. One stick to push and the other to push pn the side since I lack featherboards. Honestly never felt unsafe this way as long as the stick slips between the blade and the fence.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

*John*, that would be a little scary for me! I don't find the guards a hindrance, except for the kickback pawls which score up the wood pretty bad.

*Canadianchips*, I can reach pass the blade, but not comfortably. I'd like to be able to keep the angle of my arm high in relationship to the blade. To go ALL the way past the blade with my Grripper puts my arm a little lower than I would like it to be. It's fine with a push stick though, I just don't feel I have enough downward control with a push stick. I'm sure it's all in my head, but accidents happen when you feel out of control. I've thought about making a platform. but I don't intend on keeping this saw forever and it's another thing to clean around/under and trip over. A standard height table saw is perfect. For some reason Ridgid wanted to make the R4512 really tall.

I made a prototype thin rip jig. It works, but after trying it out I can see ways to make a MUCH nicer one. That's tomorrow's project.

On a sad note, winter is coming!! It's actually too cold in the garage right now to apply finish!! Since there is no heat in the garage, I have a long woodworking hiatus coming up. Fortunately I have 8 weeks vacation time in the bank, and I am going to take 3 of them pretty soon. I have some BIG projects I need to start and complete (executive desk, Morris chair, 2 arts and crafts end tables and a coffee table).


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

Derosa, I don't want to chop into the saw because it's getting sold one day. I also don't need quite 6". This saw is about 3" taller than a Unisaw/sawstop/jet/PM etc. 3" doesn't seem like much, but when you get to the back of the table it's a big deal. I've had others comment that it feels weird and slightly uncomfortable compared to their table saws as well.

I don't like the traditional "push stick". I think the one I pictured is much better. if the wood moves, the stick breaks/slips, you hand is headed straight for the blade.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

BTW, nothing says you HAVE to set the blade close to fence for that cut. On a 10" board, you can make your strips fall off the outside of the blade. You have to set your fence each time, but with a good or great fence thats not too big of a deal. With my Incra fence, I can make that adjustment in about 5 seconds. Even with a good Bies you should be able to get some good, quick precision.

As long as the fence locks parallel, you can set your fence each time using a guide/stop on the left hand side, perhaps clamped to your miter gauge. That gives you a fast, repeatable fence setup for each pass. Just be sure that once the fence is set that you remove the stop.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

If you want to keep your blade guard in place use a low parallel piece of stock next to your rip fence and clamp that down. Essentially making a low profile rip fence. If you do this, make sure the stock is straight and the "new fence" edge is smooth enough to not catch the stock you are trying to cut.

I use MDF, sometimes faced with self adhesive aluminum or melamine. 
You can also add some "feather" fingers on top as long as they don't get in the way of the stock you are cutting.

*This enables you to keep your guard and kick back pawls in place and use whatever comfortable feed method you want. *


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## tomd (Jan 29, 2008)

I cut alot of 1/8 and 1/4" strips and use the Rockler thin strip guide like others have mentioned. Not only does it work very well but the strips are all within .01" of each other, and the guide is realitively inexpensive.


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## fge (Sep 8, 2008)

I believe you got the best answer to your question in the first posting from Barry. Take a moment and re read his suggestion. You have stated that you are tall enough to push wood safely past the blade with a push stick but are not comfortable using the push stick because they traditionally are not good at keeping the wood pressed flat on the table. Based on your own statements Barry's correct answer would give you the proper tool/technique required to make some of the most difficult cuts required while maintaining a good amount of safety.

Use Barry's method by utilizing scrap wood of most any kind, I prefer 1/2" ply myself but any will do. And using this method you can even safely cut 3/8 slivers of wood, who cares if your fabricated push stick runs through the saw blade, it is scrap wood that takes all of 30 seconds to fabricate. I might need to take aic of our high end push sticks to show you online. And also, I find most commercially marketed push sticks to be a legal way for a company to take advantage. Many push sticks sold commercially are not even designed very well at all. Others are designed well but a complete waste of money considering shop made push sticks are completed with scraps in under 30 seconds.


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## JesseTutt (Aug 15, 2012)

I have owned my Delta Contractor's saw for around 18 years. The first thing I did was not to install the blade guard or splitter. Back then they were not very good and prevented too many cuts.

With a zero clearance insert I can rip anything from a 1/32nd" or bigger on the waste side of my blade (woodworker 2). I start with a wide enough board that I can safely push the board through.

For a 1.25 or 1.5 inch strip I would rip it between the blade and the fence. My favorite push block for this is a 2×4. I cross cut off about a 1/4 to 3/8s" off one end and then glue it back 1/4" lower. This forms a lip to catch the back of the board. I allow the saw blade to cut right through the bottom portion of the block. When it is cut up too bad I repurpose it for firewood and make a new one.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

hello Lumberjoe,

You may wish to give "degoose" a call.

When I was at his workshop last visit Larry was cutting very thin strips of timber and the repeatability he was getting was very impressive.

So he knows the answer I can assure you.

Regards

Robert


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

Here's the basic idea…

The length holds it down, the hook pushes. Change any dimension necessary, but make it wide enough to keep your hand a few inches above the blade. MDF, plywood, even 2x construction lumber works fine…

For narrower strips, just let the blade cut the bottom of the device and the hook. Push blocks are disposable…


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## fge (Sep 8, 2008)

In light of Barry's recent post I do not need to show a pic of any of our cool looking push sticks.

I just wanted to add that I do our push stick just like Barry pictured except I round over the top 90 degree angle so that it is more comfortable in my pushing palm. I also make the hook portion about 3/8 or 1/2".

And as mentioned before, I also utilize the cut-off method. If need an 18" slice, I put the bulk of the wood between the blade and fence while leaving the 1/8" cut-off. This is harder though because the fence has to be moved after every cut.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

I'm going to fool around making some push sticks tonight. Believe it or not I don't have a whole lot of experience pattern routing, so I plan to practice by making some push sticks.

Jerry, the other side of the blade thing doesn't work well for me here. Being they are cutting boards, I am actually ripping the height as the pieces will be flipped so the side grain is on top. Even a small difference on just one strip means A LOT of planing and sanding.


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