# Finger Joints: Technical question



## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

I have just recently wanted to expand my joinery techniques and I'm working on finger joints..

I made a jig for my router table with a fence and basically a 1/2" hardwood key to reference each slot, but my question is since I am using 3/4" stock I need to cut a 1/2" x 3/4" inch slot :
I am wondering what the best and fastest method is

1. Should I make several passes on each finger until the desired height is reached ( if I choose this method it's hard to align the bit while the stock is flush with the router table, this making it difficult to achieve consistent fingers and slots.
2 or should I work on each finger of the joining face and then raise the router straight bit

If there is another method using my jig I'm all ears….

Thanks guys


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I assume you are calling box joint corners finger joints. Many people use them interchangeably. I cut those for my beehives on the table saw because they are easy to make. I use the same method with a board screwed to the miter gauge and a small block attached to the board the reference. There are some fancy jigs out there on the internet but I haven't built one yet. If you have a dove tail jig for your router you can use a box joint bit and do it there.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Make the cuts in one pass, otherwise you will end up with sloppy joints.
I use a tablesaw jig, because I don't like making 3/4" deep cuts on the router table in one pass. 
I have a Leigh box joint template that I have been meaning to try. Most of my projects lately have called for dovetails, but box joints are fun too.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Depending on your router/bit and the wood, you may be able to take it in 1 swipe. 3/4" isn't so thick that the bit won't be able to eject the shavings.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

What they said: single pass. Just watch your feed rate.


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## frosty50 (Dec 22, 2011)

I have a dedicated sled to use on my router table for 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" finger joints. I use a down cut spiral bit and they only adjust due to the dedicate jigs is the height of the bit. I just made 8 drawer boxes, 4 1/2" in height using the 1/2" jig and routed all of the fingers in less than 45 minutes. Each jig took approximately 45 minutes to make and work like a champ. I am paying around with the idea of making a jig set up for 1" box joints be have not finalized it yet as I am not happy. Firm believer in jigs to speed up production time.


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

> I have a dedicated sled to use on my router table for 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" finger joints. I use a down cut spiral bit and they only adjust due to the dedicate jigs is the height of the bit. I just made 8 drawer boxes, 4 1/2" in height using the 1/2" jig and routed all of the fingers in less than 45 minutes. Each jig took approximately 45 minutes to make and work like a champ. I am paying around with the idea of making a jig set up for 1" box joints be have not finalized it yet as I am not happy. Firm believer in jigs to speed up production time.
> 
> - frosty50


Just curious. When you say you use a down cut spiral bit I assume that is to clear the chips on the upper surface of th jig and not down into the router motor. Is that correct? The only spiral bits I own are up cut and they would pull the chips down into the motor on the router table. I may need to invest in some down cut bits for this purpose.


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## Luthierman (Jun 4, 2015)

I bought this and never looked back. It has infinite adjustability for everything. Just saying. The only jig you will ever need to make box joints. I understand it doesn't exactly answer your question, I just wanted to make the suggestion if you got to where you really like box joints. This simplifies it so much. 








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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I would recommend that you make your box joints on the tablesaw: much faster and less tearout. I started out making them on the router table so I know where you are. I will never go back to the router table for box joints.


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## EdsCustomWoodCrafts (Sep 21, 2014)

> I would recommend that you make your box joints on the tablesaw: much faster and less tearout. I started out making them on the router table so I know where you are. I will never go back to the router table for box joints.
> 
> - gfadvm


I would love to but my tablesaw is a piece of crap I'm trying to get a new one I have my eye in a ridged contractor style but I can't afford one yet and to be honest all of my work is suffering sorry for rambling but I 100% agree with you


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I cut a lot of perfect box joints on a Ryobi contractor saw with a Harbor Freight dado set when I first started out and I would go back to the old Ryobi before I went back to the router table. I now use the Freud Box Cutter blades. They aren't cheap but well worth the $.


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