# Work Sharp



## StumpyNubs

My comments on the other review on this (posted yesterday) cover this already, but I will repeat them here…

Throw out the expensive slotted wheels, glass discs and sandpaper. Cut yourself some 6 inch MDF discs and use buffing compound instead of sandpaper. Make a stand that includes a shelf that is level with the disc top and use a cheap honing jig just like you would with a stone or scary sharp setup.

It makes all the difference and you'll be LOVING this machine in no time…


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## rance

I agree Phil, but it looks like you are having a problem counting to 3.  You gave it 4 stars.

I saw that platform Stumpy. That's a great solution. It doesn't solve the slotted disk problem though. They have another purpose. But those can be duplicated too with mdf.


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## StumpyNubs

It does solve the slotted disc problem if you also use the Tormek jig for gouges and other such turning tools instead of the slotted discs. Mounting the bar is cheap, but the jig is expensive. However I'm working on making a jig for it. I already came up with a knife sharpening jig similar to the Tormek that only costs a few dollars to make and works great with the Worksharp.

If you like using the slotted sharpening technique, that can be sloved too. If you are using MDF discs for the sandpaper and buffing compounds, that frees up your glass discs. Use them with the slotted paper, along with the slotted disc and you can then do five grits without switching paper. (One on each side of the two included glass discs, a fifth on the included slotted disc.


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## woodmaker

Well when I got mine for Christmas and used it over the week-end it was worth all 5 stars I gave it because it works for me. 
In 30 days it will still have 5 stars. 
This is a tool I can shrapen with. 
I can't seem to get the hang of sharpening on stones wet or dry; never could, never will apparently. This tool solves that problem. So 5 stars it is.


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## Phil53

Did not mean to upset anyone it's just my opinion. I apologize for that.

I know that in my own experience that after the new wears off and you have worked any tool for awhile you find the quirks ether good or bad.

StumpyNubs, I like the idea of making the MDF disc. That's a project I'll have to put on the list.


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## davidmicraig

No offense taken Phil. I have been one of the guilty parties that have too eagerly expressed my joy over a new tool and posted a review before the product was really broken in. On this particular product, however, I still stand behind my five star review 

I think what you might want to take into consideration is that sharpening is one of those skills that used to be taught to young'uns, probably before one was allowed to even use a knife/chisel/plane and that art has kind of died out for new woodworkers. Most lower quality chisels and planes don't even mention that the blades will have to be sharpened or honed on the packaging and newbies (like I used to be) never even give it a thought and believe that the bad cuts from these hand tools are caused by lack of talent more so than poor edge quality. So you have to imagine the elation that one feels when they use a really sharp chisel the first time. As well as the knowledge that this edge can be maintained with little effort on the hobbyist's part.

Expectations vary by woodworker, some like edges that are so sharp you cut yourself looking at the tool. Other's don't find that it fits their particular style. All a matter of perspective. Cost is a factor on these machines and many of us find work arounds and cheaper alternatives to what the company offers based on our abilities and personal frugalness. This device helps me with my turning tools as well as my chisels and my personal gratification as a woodworker has greatly intensified since using these.

At any rate, always good to hear a different impression and criticism of a product should be as welcome as the positives. The feedback helps the manufacturer take care of some quirks and produce an even better product.

Thanks for posting,

David


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## Dusty56

Phil53 , I agree 100% with your "wait and see" before reviewing , thoughts : )
Actually USED the tool for 30 or more days , not just owning it for that long !! LOL


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## Greedo

30 days? i would rather say no review within 6 months to a year after purchase. Unless there is something major wrong with a tool, then we are usually euphoric about them initially and can't re hold from posting a review and i was guilty of this as well in the past!


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## DavidBethune

Hey Phil.. I've had mine a couple of years and love it.. If you happen to know anyone with a LASER they can cut you as many wheels as you want both the slotted and the regular out of Acrylic.. They work GREAT> Also the same Laser Guy can cut whatever grits you want for the slotted and regular wheel.. I own a LASER so that's how I know.. I also cut the slotted wheels to accept a madrell.. that way you can just chuck them into a drill press… no Worksharp even necessary.. "Check my page" I have some pics posted.. I also just posted some info on how to use the diamond grits now available and where to get them from.. in this previous discussion just scroll down..


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## StumpyNubs

Hey Dave, one question… Why cut slots in clear acrylic wheels? The reason for the slots is so you can see through it, but you can see through a clear wheel anyway… Actually, the slotted discs would work fine on the class wheels, and if you line the paper up, you can use one on each side.


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## Guss

I think that there tools are good tools I like there concepts have any of you guys put a square on your tools off the sharpener When i used my grandpas i got a lot of disk deflection and it made the tools out of square on the wider stuff as much as a 1/6th it does give the tools a nice edge and it makes the back of your tools flat and smooth other then that i really wasn't that impressed


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## redryder

*"I would like to see more reviews after they have had their tool for a while (30 days or more)".*

Amen brother.
The perfect tool reviews always scare me…...........


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## StumpyNubs

*Guss*- I get very little deflection, but it is easily compensated for by adjusting the angle of the port, which is done by loosening a screw under the disc and moving a small lever. And deflecction caused by sharpening from the top is easily negated by using a honing guide with a single wheel in the center rather than the one they supply with the wide blade attachment accessory.


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## ChuckC

It should be mentioned that you don't have to use their sandpaper. I get mine from the box store and the instructions even advocate it.

With the Tormek bar and jigs you shouldn't even have to use the slotted wheel to freehand.

I love the reviews on tools that aren't even used yet or that comment on the customer service and it hasn't even arrived yet! How about we wait until we actually get it, use it, and then review the entire experience.


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## StumpyNubs

OK- my video of the Upgrades I made:


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## Phil53

Thanks again StumpyNubs I like the video and I do see a new project in the works for my WorkSharp.


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## SeaQuest

I love my WorkSharp and as for problems getting the abrasive grits. Yes the WorkSharp ones are expensive and hard to come by. However … you can use any 6" adhesive backed disk abrasive. I get mine from any of several local woodworking locations including an automotive supplier. They are really cheap and just as good as the WorkSharp brand ones. You do have to get the slotted abrasives from WorkSharp but they last a long time.


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## DavidBethune

Jim.. Find someone out there with a LASER and they can cut you all the lotted ones you'll ever need for cheap!


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## SeaQuest

Laser is a very general term, it's an acronym for Light Amplification thru Stimulated Emission of Radiation and it can be implemented in forms ranging from the little ones that hang off a key chain to ones that can bounce off the surface of the moon or punch holes through 48" blocks of titanium. I can only guess that you're referring to some sort of CNC machine that uses a Laser as a cutting implement. If that's the case I wouldn't know of anyone with one. Besides the slotted disks lasts forever and the abrasive lasts me many months so it's not worth the effort.


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## Howie

I've had my ws3000 for about 4 years. I'll still give it 5 stars. I do appreciate the tips about them on here.
I hate to mention this but I only have $1.00 in mine…..yep $1.00. I bought a lottery ticket and won $500.00 of which I proceeded to Big Orange and bought a Ridgid OS and to Woodworkers Sply and bought the 3000.
Sadly I cried all the way home.(;-))


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## DavidBethune

@Jim.. Sorry I should have specified LASER for you.. A Laser that cuts with a LASER beam.. Nothing touches the surface but the beam. CNC's are not Lasers..

I only made that suggestion because you posted

"You do have to get the slotted abrasives from WorkSharp but they last a long time."

I was just saying you had an option is all..
All the BEST
db


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## SeaQuest

Ok I'm not familiar with this type of laser cutting service, I'm not even sure what to look for.


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## thedude50

what you guys are missing on this great little machine its the dmt disks. in my review for this old workshop.com I tested 4 great sharpeners and they all were worth owning. the little ws 3000 is a great concept . But I for one am tired of the price card all the time, woodworking is not a cheep hobby. that said the work sharp is very affordable but forget the need to use compounds or sand paper buy the DMT magnetic disk sets and the honing set for the work sharp and forget about buying any thing else for your work sharp. I know that dmt is also looking for a solution to the slotted disks using mono crystalline diamonds these disks put the Work sharp over the top. even though i have a tormek i will always use the work sharp for things i don't want a hallow grind on, like mortising chisels.


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## DavidBethune

@ Jim.. I assume your not liking what I'm saying for some reason?? It's only a suggestion.
It took me 2 seconds to find a Laser Business located in Langley.. I would be amazed if it cost you more than ten dollars to have them cut it..
Here's the LINK:
Laser Business Located In Langley


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## SeaQuest

@David …. I'm absolutely certain it works, I've just never heard of a local business that can provide that type of service. The company you mention does laser engraving. Those are typically small scale low power units for small engraving applications ie pens and truphy plaques. I would be surprised if they have equipment big enough and strong enough to slice up 1/2" sheets of acrylic. Having said that it's worth asking so I will give them a call next week.


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## StumpyNubs

Dude- Those DMT discs look great. They are expensive though!

SOme have complained that DMT diamond stones are not fine enough. What do you think about the discs?


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## knothead

I have had my Worksharp 3000 for well over 2 years now, closer to three and my LOW LOW opinion of it's quality, performance and value have not changed. It is barely better than junk, has been since I opened the box. I have given it plenty of time to endear itself to me but it just has not. I have managed to find a few uses for it but mostly these past several months it just sits on the shelf.

I know there are some that are very happy with theirs, but not all of us

regards!


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## beamrider

I dont know anything about this sharpening system, so I dont know if it's possible to use a smaller diameter disc on it. But, if you want a surface that is dead flat, how about using a compact disc? They are made of polycarbonate, thickness is 0.047", diameter is 4.7", and center hole is 0.591". They are spec'd to handle just under 10k RPM. Of course, you might have to figure out some way to mount the disc, etc, and as thin as they are, flexion might be a problem also. I suppose you could just stack multiple CD's on the spindle, or make a thicker one by bonding CD's together. As cheap as they are, you could make a disc for every grit available, could be a good use for all those AOL CD's floating around out there….

And if you needed a metal/ceramic disc, you could always use a hard drive platter, I imagine the tolerance on those are much tighter than a CD. However, the diameter is also much smaller. Unless you happen to have a few old Winchesters laying around that you wouldnt mind sacrificing….

As I said, I have no idea if any of this would work or not, it's just food for thought…


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## StumpyNubs

CD's are too thin. Stacking them up (and gluing them together) is a lot of work when MDF is already flat and cheap…


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## beamrider

You may be right about that being too much work, I gave it a shot anyway since I've got a bunch of junk CD's laying around. 10 CD's stacked is just under half an inch, and with a CD holder spindle and a can of 3M spray adhesive, it took just under a minute to make a half inch stack. Now, if I can just find an unused small motor laying around somewhere I can give this a try….


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## StumpyNubs

Well, I didn't mean your idea was a bad one… sorry if I came across that way!

My concern with them on a worksharp would also be the size of the hole. It would be hard to center them and lock them down.

But the idea itself might work in another application… keep us posted!


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## beamrider

Nah, you didnt come across offensive or anything, in retrospect, I'm the one that was probably being a slight smart-alec…

Cant seem to be able to find any info on what the ID of a worksharp wheel is, a CD is 15mm, from pictures it looks like a worksharp wheel has a smaller ID than that, so hmmmmm…...How does a worksharp wheel lock down to the arbor, does that knob just screw on?


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## StumpyNubs

The hole in the center of the Worksharp disc is about 12mm. There is a short arbor that the disc goes on that also has a threaded hole in the center. That plastic knob you see in the photo has a bolt end that screws into that arbor and pinches down the disc.


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## willy66

On the topic of the worksharp 3000, I have some mixed feelings and some questions. I have had it in use for over 1 year now, and am very happy with how SHARP it makes the edges of my tools. I struggle, however, when sharpening anything smaller than 1/4", and larger than the bottom port allows. Recently, the bottom port was making my edges out of square, but i was able to fix that with the adjustment screw, (created for that reason).

I have the wide blade attachment for my larger plane blades, but have been having a hell of a time achieving a square edge on my jointer plane blade. I have tried re-leveling the bed, and adjusting the best I can, but have just about given up. Any suggestions any one?

Also I just got a spokeshave (Veritas) for Chirstmas, and a router plane (Veritas). Any suggestions/jigs for sharpening these blades? The Spokeshave blade is very short, and I dont think it would work with the wide blade jig. The Router blades are L shaped. Very tough.

I also found that they have come up with a bar that attaches to the WorkSharp, that uses Tormek and Jet jigs. Has anyone tried this yet? I'm considering trying that instead, but that becomes a whole additional expenditure. I don't mind spending the money, just don't want to keep investing money in the WorkSharp, when in the long run, I will end up just buying the Tormek, instead of trying to make the WorkSharp work LIKE the Tormek.

The more tools I get, the more I find limitations to this machine…To be honest, I am very close to trading up for the Tormek. Just waiting to see what my tax return looks like.

-Willy


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## StumpyNubs

*willy66*- At the top of this thread I posted an episode of my woodworking show that deals with a lot of the issues you are having. I'll post it again here.

The jig that holdes the wide plane blades has two wheels, so it is dependant on that table they give you being perfectly mounted, shich is VERY difficult the way they designed it. I have had success by switching to a single wheeled jig (like the cheap ones a lot of people use for stones and sandpaper) It allows the jig to tilt a bit so that the blade lays flat on the disc. Sharpen by applying light pressure with your fingers on the two corners of the blade near the bevel with that jig.

Tormek makes a jig to sharpen spokeshaves. I think you can make one yourself. In my video I show how to use a bar to mount those Tormek jigs to the worksharp. Check it out when you get a chance:


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## thedude50

the only issue with the dmt disks that i was awareI = of and after testing two sets in our shop for a month they are great and the inital out lay is not cheep but in only 25 paper changes it is paid for the rest is gravy they come in three grits and a homing wheel that uses diamond paste it is to die for the hone on diamond paste is second to none like i said if you want the best buy a tormek but for a budjet sharpiner thge workshapr get it done and with the DMT DISKS IT IS WAY ABOVE AVERAGE IMAGINE YOU DONT HAVE TO KEEP PULLING OUT FOR HEAT BECAUSE THE DIAMOND DISKS DONT MAKE THE CUT WITH HEAT THEY SIMPLY SLICE AWAY THE STEEL I have tested tools for 15 years and this is not a hunk of junk it is a cheep solution if you want a workhorse buy a tormek nothing is even close I am still testing the top 3 units the jet the tormek and the worksharp there is no doubt the king is the tormek the jet was not even in the same league but the worksharp offer power sharpining at a great price point


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## shepditch

Stumpy,
I am definitely going to build your table system - simple + effective = brilliant

I'm wondering if the honing compound/diamond paste swells the MDF over time, ruining the flat surface and the grind. Is it worth putting a couple coats of poly or shellac (something oil, not water-based) on the MDF to protect it? Also, it looks like the compound is fairly randomly swirled across the MDF platter, does that cause any issues with high/low points on the disk? I'm just wondering if committing to the DMT disks (therefore leveling the table to that vs. the MDF platters) is the way to go. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Steve


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## StumpyNubs

The compound is pretty dry, like a crayon. When it heats up it turns to a greasy consistency, but that doesn't bother the MDF. As it does that, it spreads out evenly. If you have any trouble with lumps, just take an old blade and press it against the surface until you generate enough heat to melt the compound. If the bumps are really bad, use that old blade to scrape some of it off as the disc spins and then reapply a thinner, more even layer. You may get those bumps on new discs (like in my photos) but after a bit of use they even out and turn nice and smooth. (All of the compound colors will turn black when they warm up, so mark on the edge of the disc which color to reapply. And make sure you wipe the blade clean between each compound!)

I hear that DMT discs are great. If you want to invest in them, you still will need to do the honing compound because the diamond discs aren't fine enough. But they would replace the sandpaper discs I have to use for the courser grits, and the fine one will replace the black or brown compound too. But you'll still need to use the white and red.

I suggest placing a DMT disc on top of a 1/2" mdf disc. (You'll need to replace the knob on the worksharp with a longer one). Level the table with that. Then when you switch from the DMT/MDF combined thickness to just the MDF, that little difference should make a nice microbevel for the fine honing compound without needing to adjust the jig!

Now that I thought of that,I may do a followup show in it- if I even decide to spend the cash on some DMT discs!


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