# table top grain orientation



## rhett (May 11, 2008)

I am at the table top portion of a recent dining room set commisssion. My client has given me the cherry for the table top, but it is unruly at best. I would not use it, but it has sentimental value to her, it was her deceased father's. I have always made my tables with the grain going length wise and breadboard ends. The only way to tame this stack of wood is going to be to cut it down, flatten it and run it with the grain perpendicular to the length. Should I be worried about the 10 1/2" overhang on the ends of the table. It is a modified trestle design so there is no support on the ends. I am afraid it will cup or break off should someone sit on it. Suggestions please. The final dimensions are to be 34×75 with two leaves in the middle that are 45" combined. All boards will be 5" wide and I am hoping to get them flat by 13/16".


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## gusthehonky (Feb 26, 2008)

The unsupported joint between the 2 5" sections could present a problem, I'm no authority, but grain orientation combined with dowels, or biscuits, or dominoes, etc. could result in an ugly failure if/when overly stressed. I'm no master of fine furniture but your concerns about design raised an eyebrow. As for cupping, crowning, etc. I can't help ya. Best of luck, judging by your projects, this will be all sorted out and conquered in a day or two.


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## Bigbuck (May 15, 2008)

Seems like it should be strong enough for normal use on a table, however if they were to sit or stand on the unsupported section It may break although I doupt even that would break it. I don't really know though hopefully somebody with more experiance will stop by and help you out.

Good Luck


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

*I was thinking maybe tongue, & grooved glued joints may add some strength.*


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

Maybe a runner on the bottom of each side, dovetailed into bottom of the top. Make the runner from the same thickness as the top boards, so there would only be about half of the board below the lower surface. Then taper the ends into the outer boards. Does that make sense, or am I rambling?


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## gusthehonky (Feb 26, 2008)

I was thinking along the lines of tenontims solution also, but he said it better than me, or could all-thread be buried inside the outer boards and and the nut be hidden within a countersunk hole and plugged? Just another one of my dumb ideas.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

i would put some cross braces across the length of the table. a breadboard end would be good too but it would be hard to do on a table with the grain orienting that way. i would say a few braces under is your best bet.


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

Putting a breadboard along the sides, perpendicular to the top boards, along with stiffeners parallel to the breadboard about 4" to 4 1/2" in from the edges should give it the stability you are looking for. You could also use the stiffeners in the design as a skirt around the table.


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## CelticCross (Mar 22, 2007)

Rhett ,
I was going to suggest the same thin John did above. I think the breadboard sides would add a unique bit of character to the design but also a lot of strength. Let me know what you decide a how it work out.
Ryan


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## rhett (May 11, 2008)

Thanks for all the ideas. I feel rather silly in the fact I wasn't thinking about the table having center extensions…ie I can run the grain lengthwise because I can make the length in two pieces. Too much time under the flourescent lights I guess. Anyhow, I had to take 1 1/8" thick cherry down to 3/4" just to make it flat. Not a very thick top, but the customer gets what the customer wants. If that isn't a reason to store your wood correctly, I don't know what is.


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

Well, Rhett, I guess we all failed that test. No one else caught it either. 3/4" is a nice thickness for a table unless you're making a rather massive frame.


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