# Fixing chamfer gap...



## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Got ahead of myself and routered a chamfer without considering how this would give me a gap when I assembled the back to the sides. The gap is larger than I expect would work to try to sand/fill with a mix of glue and sawdust. Am hoping someone might have a suggestion on a good way to fix/cover or make into a "design element." Thought of trying to cut a small wedge to glue in (and then sand etc to "blend") but likely too small. Thanks.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Glue and sawdust?


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Epoxy putty. You can blend it to get close to the wood color. By letting it cure enough to be solid, but not completely hard, you'll be able to use a chisel to trim it square, and then sand it flush after it hardens.

Finally, because the surface of the epoxy will be a solid color, some graining pens or pencils will blend it with the surrounding area.


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

Not sure of actual size but you can cut some pretty small wedges / shims with proper grain orientation that I think would look the best?


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## Desert_Woodworker (Jan 28, 2015)

> Not sure of actual size but you can cut some pretty small wedges / shims with proper grain orientation that I think would look the best?
> 
> - Andre


 +1


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## Desert_Woodworker (Jan 28, 2015)

OOps double post


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll try to cut a piece to help "fill" the small gap and then go with some glue/sawdust as I haven't worked with epoxy putty (and would have to order that). I have some of the dark Titebond glue which I've been using so that will hopefully help with blending to match. 
Thank you again for every one who replied.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

I would cut a wedge of the same wood and same grain direction and the exact width of that vertical board and make it over twice the size of the gap so you can handle it. Put some glue on the inside with a toothpick and then jam that wedge in there and let it dry for at least 4 hrs, cut off the excess with a Japanese saw and sand it


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## JBrow (Nov 18, 2015)

BB1,

Rather than trying to fill in the void, the shoulder of the rabbet on the stile could be chamfered. Some careful layout and a sharp chisel could produce two chamfers that meet in the middle. With the number of chamfers already on the project, this option would likely leave you as the only one who will ever know this was a mistake.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

That is an option I have been considering as well. My chisel work is lacking, but was going to try using a handheld router on some scrap pieces to see if I could router all the way around the top and make it all looked "planned."

And have a few other mistakes! One being a board that slipped out of my hand and a 6 inch long narrow piece split off the edge. Have glued that back in place (thankfully on the bottom side/back corner). After some sanding I hope to be the only one who notices (other than my husband who was helping me with the glue up)!!



> BB1,
> 
> Rather than trying to fill in the void, the shoulder of the rabbet on the stile could be chamfered. Some careful layout and a sharp chisel could produce two chamfers that meet in the middle. With the number of chamfers already on the project, this option would likely leave you as the only one who will ever know this was a mistake.
> 
> - JBrow


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> BB1,
> 
> Rather than trying to fill in the void, the shoulder of the rabbet on the stile could be chamfered. Some careful layout and a sharp chisel could produce two chamfers that meet in the middle. With the number of chamfers already on the project, this option would likely leave you as the only one who will ever know this was a mistake.
> 
> - JBrow


Like this?


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

I was thinking more along the lines of a larger chamfer along the whole length. 
Not sure though as that is really an "all in" with no turning back!


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

*


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

That is what I was thinking for a chamfer fix. For perspective, this is the top (small bookcase and the person I'm making it for wants the "lip"around the top). My gaps are in the back corners.












> - jbay


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

If it were me, I'd go the replace route.

Place a chisel on the end of an identical board and chip out a 45 deg. wedge, should only take one chop.

This can then be glued to the chamfer and sanded flush.


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## JBrow (Nov 18, 2015)

BB1,

If the bookcase top can be removed, then the re-rout with a wider chamfer would be possible. However, if the top is already fixed in place and cannot be removed, the bearing screw on the chamfer bit could bottom out on the top and thus not allow enough depth of cut to achieve the width needed.

jbay, that is what I had in mind, but with the drawing you posted, the remaining square shoulder might also need some chisel work. That I suppose would be a design decision.

As far as chisel work, a well-executed complimentary chamfer could be achieved with a paring block. The pairing block would be a piece of scrap whose end is cut to the angle of the chamfer. The pairing block would support the back of the chisel keeping the chisel at the proper chamfer angle. The pairing block could be clamped in position to remove progressively larger amounts of material, a little at a time, until the chamfers match. The direction of the wood grain would allow a sharp chisel to make clean shallow cuts.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

There's no easy way to hide this I can think 
of. You could chisel down into the end grain
a little and fit an end-grain plug snugly. While
to the careful observer the patch would be 
obvious, I think the end grain would help
conceal the joint.

Short of routing away a lot of long grain material
it's going to be difficult to conceal a butt joint
in a long grain repair.

Wood putty or lacquer burn-in stick repair can
have a pretty good appearance, especially if
a glossy clear finish is applied after.


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## BB1 (Jan 29, 2016)

Quick followup on the gap issue. Finally had some time to head to the shop and worked on the bookcase. I went with a "wedge" glued in and then sanded. Not perfect, but better than the gap. Also added a bit of filler trim that covered a small gap. Have been sanding for a while and hope to start with the finish yet this weekend. Thanks again for all the suggestions!


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

Thanks for the follow up, it's always nice to see how something turns out.
Looks Good!


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