# Bench/stand for metal working lathe



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*New lathe needs a place to hang out*

After conspiring for some four years I finally saved up my pennies for the Grizzly G0602 metal cutting lathe.










Had fun rigging it into my basement and began the process of disassembly, inspection and cleaning all the cosmoline off of it.










These Chinese lathes are priced low enough for hobbyist to afford, but require a bit of TLC, as there are lots of burrs that need filing and grit to clean up in order to get everything moving smoothly.

With the lathe weighing in at over 400 lbs. it's also helpful to get ~1/3 of the weight off of it.










Now I need to make a stand for it….

Design requirements are:

inexpensive, sturdy, heavy enough to dampen vibrations and add rigidity to the lathe.

Here's what I came up with:










And after some research, I have a little surprise for the top


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *New lathe needs a place to hang out*
> 
> After conspiring for some four years I finally saved up my pennies for the Grizzly G0602 metal cutting lathe.
> 
> ...


I know what the surprise is….


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

ssnvet said:


> *New lathe needs a place to hang out*
> 
> After conspiring for some four years I finally saved up my pennies for the Grizzly G0602 metal cutting lathe.
> 
> ...


Good for you bud. Looks like fun. Always wanted one.


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## Belg1960 (Jan 3, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *New lathe needs a place to hang out*
> 
> After conspiring for some four years I finally saved up my pennies for the Grizzly G0602 metal cutting lathe.
> 
> ...


My guess for the top is a metal catch pan?? Looks like a great tool!!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *New lathe needs a place to hang out*
> 
> After conspiring for some four years I finally saved up my pennies for the Grizzly G0602 metal cutting lathe.
> 
> ...


Randy is a fart smeller…. uh… make that smart feller :^p


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *New lathe needs a place to hang out*
> 
> After conspiring for some four years I finally saved up my pennies for the Grizzly G0602 metal cutting lathe.
> 
> ...


Here's a couple pics of the fun I had rigging…. just me (O.K. my wife stood by to call 911) and my blue ox, some chains and 2.5 hours…

@ 430 lbs. I had visions of a runaway crate sliding down the bulkhead ramps and breaking some legs, so I didn't want any helpers or bystanders to worry about.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *New lathe needs a place to hang out*
> 
> After conspiring for some four years I finally saved up my pennies for the Grizzly G0602 metal cutting lathe.
> 
> ...


Ahhh…. rigging & bulkhead doors….
Brings back fond memories!!!
"Work like an Egyptian"....


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *New lathe needs a place to hang out*
> 
> After conspiring for some four years I finally saved up my pennies for the Grizzly G0602 metal cutting lathe.
> 
> ...


As Archimedes would say… "Give me a lever and I'll move the world"... or sander, or lathe, or TS :^p


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *New lathe needs a place to hang out*
> 
> After conspiring for some four years I finally saved up my pennies for the Grizzly G0602 metal cutting lathe.
> 
> ...


You can move anything. That's a fine looking lathe


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Joinery decisions and cutting the framing members*

The top needs a 1×10 perimeter frame…. I was going to try using a Lock Miter bit I have, but couldn't get a tight fit and the end grain locking tab kept braking. So I decided to glue and screw a simple but joint…










to support the frame, I cut a shelves on the outer sides of the post tops. I cut the cheeks on the band saw and for the shoulders I set the depths stop on my SCMS and used the fence stop to get identical parts.



















A little paring with a 3" timber framing chisel used like a slick










All cleaned up and spiffy….


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Joinery decisions and cutting the framing members*
> 
> The top needs a 1×10 perimeter frame…. I was going to try using a Lock Miter bit I have, but couldn't get a tight fit and the end grain locking tab kept braking. So I decided to glue and screw a simple but joint…
> 
> ...


Next up are lap joints for the stretchers… time to set up the dado blade.










Setting up stop blocks on the fence helped for repeatable cuts… I cut the top and the bottom










And then using shims to make the step cuts to clear the middle.

Here they are…








(one little boo-boo)


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Joinery decisions and cutting the framing members*
> 
> The top needs a 1×10 perimeter frame…. I was going to try using a Lock Miter bit I have, but couldn't get a tight fit and the end grain locking tab kept braking. So I decided to glue and screw a simple but joint…
> 
> ...


This dado blade was an economy setup called "Avenger" made by Steel-X

The side wall cuts are crisp and clean, but the bottom of the dado cut was not so smooth


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Joinery decisions and cutting the framing members*
> 
> The top needs a 1×10 perimeter frame…. I was going to try using a Lock Miter bit I have, but couldn't get a tight fit and the end grain locking tab kept braking. So I decided to glue and screw a simple but joint…
> 
> ...


Here's a dry fit of a stretcher lap…










They fit snug, but the rounded off edge of the 2×4s make it look loose

Here's a dry fit of the progress so far.










Looks more like a fish tank stand….

Next up is cutting some plywood.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Joinery decisions and cutting the framing members*
> 
> The top needs a 1×10 perimeter frame…. I was going to try using a Lock Miter bit I have, but couldn't get a tight fit and the end grain locking tab kept braking. So I decided to glue and screw a simple but joint…
> 
> ...


Looking good Matt. I couldn't help notice…..it looks like you cut the wrong side of the line on one leg. I have never done that…..recently. Ruined an oak newel post when I did it. How much concrete will be in the bench?


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Joinery decisions and cutting the framing members*
> 
> The top needs a 1×10 perimeter frame…. I was going to try using a Lock Miter bit I have, but couldn't get a tight fit and the end grain locking tab kept braking. So I decided to glue and screw a simple but joint…
> 
> ...


Lookin' stout.

Looking forward to you "pouring" yourself into this project….
That and to seeing the projects coming from your metal eating lathe!!!


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Joinery decisions and cutting the framing members*
> 
> The top needs a 1×10 perimeter frame…. I was going to try using a Lock Miter bit I have, but couldn't get a tight fit and the end grain locking tab kept braking. So I decided to glue and screw a simple but joint…
> 
> ...


Looking good, Matt! Was recently reading that some 'springiness' is desirable in a lathe bench, not sure how it may apply to a metal cutting lathe?


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Joinery decisions and cutting the framing members*
> 
> The top needs a 1×10 perimeter frame…. I was going to try using a Lock Miter bit I have, but couldn't get a tight fit and the end grain locking tab kept braking. So I decided to glue and screw a simple but joint…
> 
> ...


Mr. Bill has noticed my boo-boo. I'll mend that with a little scrap and some glue.

Candy… That's very interesting about "springiness". I do think that metal cutting presents a different paradigm, however. My (limited) research all points towards rigidity as the #1 desirable feature in mills and lathes, as any flexure will produce tool chatter and wreck the finish.

I originally planned on making Stumpy's 2×6 Roubo bench, but I heard some reports of wood movement causing problems.

The goal hear is cheap, functional, and if possible…. adding rigidity.


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Joinery decisions and cutting the framing members*
> 
> The top needs a 1×10 perimeter frame…. I was going to try using a Lock Miter bit I have, but couldn't get a tight fit and the end grain locking tab kept braking. So I decided to glue and screw a simple but joint…
> 
> ...


Just thought I'd muddy the waters for you. Kidding. I read that in Practical Woodturner by F. Pain page 11. I could be misinterpreting it, as well.


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *Joinery decisions and cutting the framing members*
> 
> The top needs a 1×10 perimeter frame…. I was going to try using a Lock Miter bit I have, but couldn't get a tight fit and the end grain locking tab kept braking. So I decided to glue and screw a simple but joint…
> 
> ...


Looking Good!

"Looks more like a fish tank stand….", haha…your bench is like a so not particularly interesting caterpillar today, metamorphosing into a detailed, intricate butterfly tomorrow. It will be strong like bull. I've used a thin strip jig to cut shims for dados, then realized I had 50 or so paint stirring sticks that all measured 1/8" thick, to a 64th. Thank you big box store. They make great shims to cut the slots in shop-made feather boards.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Joinery decisions and cutting the framing members*
> 
> The top needs a 1×10 perimeter frame…. I was going to try using a Lock Miter bit I have, but couldn't get a tight fit and the end grain locking tab kept braking. So I decided to glue and screw a simple but joint…
> 
> ...


If it is a fish tank, it'll hold a whale… lol


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*more progress*

Breaking down panels with my cordless saw and a T square… I cut them oversized so I can get a precision cut on the TS with the new sled.










I decided to dado the stretchers to mount the bottom shelf instead of using ledgers or just letting the plywood rest on top of the strethers.










Plywood fits nice and snug…










All done with the dado blade now, so I decided to clean up the Fusion blade before putting it back on.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *more progress*
> 
> Breaking down panels with my cordless saw and a T square… I cut them oversized so I can get a precision cut on the TS with the new sled.
> 
> ...


missed a couple pics…

put a matching dado in the post for the bottom panel…. lines up nicely with the stretcher dado










But unfortunately, it took a couple tries and I made Swiss cheese out of one of my post bottoms…. there's only supposed to be two dados here…. not four :^o










I have enough 4×4 left to cut a new post, but I may opt to mend this one by splicing in some matching blocks


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *more progress*
> 
> Breaking down panels with my cordless saw and a T square… I cut them oversized so I can get a precision cut on the TS with the new sled.
> 
> ...


Bummer on the oppses….
But progress is progress, even if one needs to take one step back.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*She's got legs...*

I decided that I would mend my errant dados instead of replacing the leg, as it would be trying to repeat the setups exactly and match the other legs. Here's pic of one repair….










And here're the legs assembled.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *She's got legs...*
> 
> I decided that I would mend my errant dados instead of replacing the leg, as it would be trying to repeat the setups exactly and match the other legs. Here's pic of one repair….
> 
> ...


Yeah, fixin' was the way to go….
Duplicating the leg would have been problematic.
Nice job on fixing the opps!!!

Still awaiting the surprise….


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *She's got legs...*
> 
> I decided that I would mend my errant dados instead of replacing the leg, as it would be trying to repeat the setups exactly and match the other legs. Here's pic of one repair….
> 
> ...


Way to go, Matt. Looks good from here.


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *She's got legs...*
> 
> I decided that I would mend my errant dados instead of replacing the leg, as it would be trying to repeat the setups exactly and match the other legs. Here's pic of one repair….
> 
> ...


Nice splices, Matt!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *She's got legs...*
> 
> I decided that I would mend my errant dados instead of replacing the leg, as it would be trying to repeat the setups exactly and match the other legs. Here's pic of one repair….
> 
> ...


This is gonna hold a truck for sure. Nicely constructed


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## Bigrock (Apr 16, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *She's got legs...*
> 
> I decided that I would mend my errant dados instead of replacing the leg, as it would be trying to repeat the setups exactly and match the other legs. Here's pic of one repair….
> 
> ...


One of the keys to becoming a good Woodworker is learning to get out of trouble on a project. You are learning this by fixing your bad cuts.
I just built a box with a sliding top and cutting that dado so the sliding top would slide into the groves on the sides and back. I turned the top the wrong way and you guessed it. I had a saw kerf in the wrong place. I got a piece of walnut, sliced off a thin piece, glued it in and used it as a accent line on the top.

You could hide all of these bad cuts with veneer and nobody would ever know.
Good luck on your Bench.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Ledgers and mid-span support*

Today's progress…..

Ledgers and mid-span member to support the 3/4" plywood (over which goes the surprise)










Ready to pull off the bench and flip it over next….

I'm debating finishes. I'm committed to not spend money on this project and have a couple options on the shelf…

One is a Hunter Green stain










Over which I'd put a couple coats of poly

Another is 2-in-1 Pecan poly shades










Neither are great options…. But both are free.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Ledgers and mid-span support*
> 
> Today's progress…..
> 
> ...


Aaaa…. yeah….. neither finish looks to be primo.
Looks like a choice between the lesser of two evils!
Tough call…. but I'll leave it to you.
You're the one that has to live with it…
Well, until you decide to re-finish it!!! ;^)

Will the surprise be about 5" thick???
If so, that going to be immovable!!!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Ledgers and mid-span support*
> 
> Today's progress…..
> 
> ...


Randy… just under …. and it will definitely fall into the "heavy duty" category…. emphasis on heavy.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Ledgers and mid-span support*
> 
> Today's progress…..
> 
> ...


Free is always good. lol


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Ledgers and mid-span support*
> 
> Today's progress…..
> 
> ...


Looking at it again… the green is pretty gross.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Short stretchers and sanding*

Decided to add short stretchers to cap the plywood shelf ends…



















Since these where an after thought, I just used pocket screws..










But joints look nice and tight after a little sanding…










Thinking about over driving the screws and filling the holes after the finish is applied


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Short stretchers and sanding*
> 
> Decided to add short stretchers to cap the plywood shelf ends…
> 
> ...


Good call!
Looks much better… is it rabbeted(?) for support???

Have you decide on which "less than appealing" finish to apply?

Anxiously waiting…. for you to "fill" us in on the "surprise"....


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Short stretchers and sanding*
> 
> Decided to add short stretchers to cap the plywood shelf ends…
> 
> ...


I'm leaning towards a couple coats of the Pecan Poly Shades….










Better than that hideous green.

Since the lathe will see cutting oil and cooling fluid in normal use, I want a poly finish… And this can has been on my shelf for quite a while.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Short stretchers and sanding*
> 
> Decided to add short stretchers to cap the plywood shelf ends…
> 
> ...


I cut a dado in the short stretchers 3/4" deep, so they both cap and support the shelf ends, as well as tie the legs together.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Sand, start finish and tool tray*

Decided to keep cost minimal and use an unopened can of Pecan Poly Shades….. And only managed to spill half of it on the floor…..

Here's the first coat…. Nothing to brag about…










Glued up some scraps to make a tool tray for the tool kit that came with the lathe… Some metric wrenches, Allen keys, dead centers and a nice chuck for the tail stock…. I'll spiffy it up with some Kaizen foam when I'm done…










Hope to get a second coat of finish on today… And then spray some rattle can poly over the top for durability…


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Sand, start finish and tool tray*
> 
> Decided to keep cost minimal and use an unopened can of Pecan Poly Shades….. And only managed to spill half of it on the floor…..
> 
> ...


Looks great from here…. The floor that is!!! ;^)

Ahhh…. Kaizen foam…. Jeff & *74* would be soooo proud!!!

Carry on….
With the build…. NOT the spill!!!


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Sand, start finish and tool tray*
> 
> Decided to keep cost minimal and use an unopened can of Pecan Poly Shades….. And only managed to spill half of it on the floor…..
> 
> ...


Looks great. I was wanting to see a pic of the newly stained floor myself.
I think the Polyshades can be a useable product as long as it is not just painted on and left. If wiped back off it can be used like a gel stain. I have seen it painted on and left. Not pretty.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Sand, start finish and tool tray*
> 
> Decided to keep cost minimal and use an unopened can of Pecan Poly Shades….. And only managed to spill half of it on the floor…..
> 
> ...


Oh boy oh boy…


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Sand, start finish and tool tray*
> 
> Decided to keep cost minimal and use an unopened can of Pecan Poly Shades….. And only managed to spill half of it on the floor…..
> 
> ...


Second coat…


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *Sand, start finish and tool tray*
> 
> Decided to keep cost minimal and use an unopened can of Pecan Poly Shades….. And only managed to spill half of it on the floor…..
> 
> ...


Looks like it oughta do the trick, Matt. Nice job. Polyshades looks good from here.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Ready for the top*

The finish is more or less a bust (I'm not showing the bad sides), but I need to move on….

Here it is with the tool tray mounted …










And if you haven't figured it out yet, here are the materials for the top…










A rebar reinforced, 5" thick, poured concrete block, with vertical pipes for through bolting the lathe down….

Anybody got a 24" bull float I can borrow?


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Ready for the top*
> 
> The finish is more or less a bust (I'm not showing the bad sides), but I need to move on….
> 
> ...


Estimated weight of the top alone is 320 lbs.

:^o


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *Ready for the top*
> 
> The finish is more or less a bust (I'm not showing the bad sides), but I need to move on….
> 
> ...


I don't quite understand the need for concrete for the top. I suspect you are trying to get a flat surface so the lathe will sit without twisting the lathe ways. There are other ways to accomplish this without using concrete. With the weight of the lathe and the concrete, the bench will be top heavy; better to put the concrete down close to the floor for better balance.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Ready for the top*
> 
> The finish is more or less a bust (I'm not showing the bad sides), but I need to move on….
> 
> ...


I like the lathe anchoring method.
Will the holes in the top….
Match the holes in your head??? ;^)

How long will you need to let the concrete cure?

I know you are going for vibration dampening with the concrete, but….
Have you considered adding fiberglass reinforcement (to the concrete)?

At 320+ pounds….
Big Blue would be needed to pull that bench out of the basement.
Hope you aren't moving anytime soon!!!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Ready for the top*
> 
> The finish is more or less a bust (I'm not showing the bad sides), but I need to move on….
> 
> ...


You should be able to park a Ford F-350 on that puppy


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Ready for the top*
> 
> The finish is more or less a bust (I'm not showing the bad sides), but I need to move on….
> 
> ...


Ron… The idea is to hard bolt the lathe to the top and in doing so making the lathe bed more rigid and massive, so that it is less inclined to chatter on hard cuts and give a crapy finish. It will definitely be top heavy, but the will be about 75 lbs of tooling stowed on the bottom shelf and I will secure it to the wall with 'L' brackets to ensure it doesn't do anything unexpected.

Randy… I will park it in its final resting place b4 I pour the concrete, and declare it immoveable afterwards.

Yah, it's kind of a crazy design, and I'll have no one but myself to blame if it's a bust. But then again, it's actually a pretty inexpensive build, and is goin fairly smoothely.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Ready for the top*
> 
> The finish is more or less a bust (I'm not showing the bad sides), but I need to move on….
> 
> ...





> Yah, it s kind of a crazy design, and I ll have no one but myself to blame if it s a bust. But then again, it s actually a pretty inexpensive build, and is goin fairly smoothely.
> 
> - Mainiac Matt


I wouldn't say it's a crazy design.
Then again…. I'm crazy!!!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Leveled the bench and poured concrete top*

Trimmed the front leg bottoms and slipped in plastic shims to get the bench spot on level…










One of Matt's "maxims" is to never pour concrete without steel reinforcement (please don't ask me how I came to this conclusion)....










Bolt holes have to align to the drip tray holes…




























Ready for business…










I forgot what a PITA hand mixing concrete is…..










Not perfect, but not too shabby either. I needed a little Portland cement to make a slurry to fill in the courser spots and float a nice smooth surface, but alas, all I had was the pre-mixed Quickcrete….

I didn't want to drop $30 on a bull float, so I had to use my brick trowel.










Bolt holes are nice and flush…










I used four 80 lb bags of Quickcrete and half of a 60 lb bag, so not counting the water, the top is 350 lbs. that should dampen some vibrations.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Leveled the bench and poured concrete top*
> 
> Trimmed the front leg bottoms and slipped in plastic shims to get the bench spot on level…
> 
> ...


Ps…. I'm beat!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Leveled the bench and poured concrete top*
> 
> Trimmed the front leg bottoms and slipped in plastic shims to get the bench spot on level…
> 
> ...


All the calculations and fitting paid off….
As the top looks, well…. Top Notch!!!

Sure is a rock solid bench. Well done.
Now that the concrete is poured….
Pour yourself a stiff drink…. you've earned it my friend!!!

I'm anxiously awaiting…. for the metal to be flying!!!


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## Belg1960 (Jan 3, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Leveled the bench and poured concrete top*
> 
> Trimmed the front leg bottoms and slipped in plastic shims to get the bench spot on level…
> 
> ...


Really great job, progress looks fantastic. As big a pain in the butt as it is to hand mix concrete you would think that pain would stay with you forever. Necessity makes us do crazy things. LOL


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## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Leveled the bench and poured concrete top*
> 
> Trimmed the front leg bottoms and slipped in plastic shims to get the bench spot on level…
> 
> ...


Looking good , Matt! Are you planning on putting some weight on the bottom to counterbalance the top-heaviness? Or bolt the table to the floor?


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Leveled the bench and poured concrete top*
> 
> Trimmed the front leg bottoms and slipped in plastic shims to get the bench spot on level…
> 
> ...


Don…. I'm putting a tool box and storage for chucks, etc… On the bottom shelf. But the stand will still be very top heavy (especially when the lathe is mounted). I'm going to connect the top to the wall behind, either with 'L' brackets and a cleat, or with a shelf assembly.


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Leveled the bench and poured concrete top*
> 
> Trimmed the front leg bottoms and slipped in plastic shims to get the bench spot on level…
> 
> ...


Holy concrete table Batman! Well done. I'll be busy the day you decide it needs to go back up the stairs!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Leveled the bench and poured concrete top*
> 
> Trimmed the front leg bottoms and slipped in plastic shims to get the bench spot on level…
> 
> ...


That should hold anything.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Skim coat to make up for my "iffy" flat work*

Every time I do mason work, I finish up with a fresh respect for professional masons who do the work very well. There's more science to it than one might think and it takes a lot of practice to get the techniques right.

My second observation is that whenever I do a project that doesn't turn out so well, I always find that there are good YouTube videos out there that would have helped me a lot, had I watched them BEFORE I started, as I made the classic novice error of mixing the concrete too soupy and wound up with a puddle that couldn't be properly floated.

So being none to impressed with the coarse, slightly unlevel finish of my concrete poor, now that it's pretty well cured, I decided to try doing a skim coat.

I found a half bag of ConPro Oneshot in my shed, but when I tested it in a corner, it crumbled when dry….. Home Depot, here I come. They have a product by Henry called Uni Pro that gets good reviews,and best of all, I didn't have to buy a huge bag…. I chose the little 3 lb. box fox $6.

This time I prepped the surface by putting a "curb" on 3 sides. Mixing was easy, but this stuff sets up really fast, so you have to think it through and even do a dry run….. Just like with a big clamped glue up.










I used my Sheetrock tools, which worked well…










I was just a little short of mix, but it's very close. I'll evaluate it when dry and may hit it again, as it was easy enough.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Skim coat to make up for my "iffy" flat work*
> 
> Every time I do mason work, I finish up with a fresh respect for professional masons who do the work very well. There's more science to it than one might think and it takes a lot of practice to get the techniques right.
> 
> ...


Looking better. I guess the most important thing is that the lathe sits on there without wobbling.


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## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Skim coat to make up for my "iffy" flat work*
> 
> Every time I do mason work, I finish up with a fresh respect for professional masons who do the work very well. There's more science to it than one might think and it takes a lot of practice to get the techniques right.
> 
> ...


Looks good, Matt. It will look even better once the lathe is on it.


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## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Skim coat to make up for my "iffy" flat work*
> 
> Every time I do mason work, I finish up with a fresh respect for professional masons who do the work very well. There's more science to it than one might think and it takes a lot of practice to get the techniques right.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to seeing the lathe mounted and in service, Matt, but not as much as you do!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Skim coat to make up for my "iffy" flat work*
> 
> Every time I do mason work, I finish up with a fresh respect for professional masons who do the work very well. There's more science to it than one might think and it takes a lot of practice to get the techniques right.
> 
> ...


Ya know…. they sell pre-made counter tops.
That look just like concrete, marble or even granite…
A lot less work & easier on the back!!!

With all the effort you have put into this build….
I have no doubt that great things will come….
From your metal eating behemoth!!!


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *Skim coat to make up for my "iffy" flat work*
> 
> Every time I do mason work, I finish up with a fresh respect for professional masons who do the work very well. There's more science to it than one might think and it takes a lot of practice to get the techniques right.
> 
> ...


Looking good, Matt. Can't wait to see it with the lathe on it.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Skim coat to make up for my "iffy" flat work*
> 
> Every time I do mason work, I finish up with a fresh respect for professional masons who do the work very well. There's more science to it than one might think and it takes a lot of practice to get the techniques right.
> 
> ...


But do they way 300 lb, and if so, how do I bring one home :^p

Trust me, 80 lb. at a whack was bad enough :^o


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

*Houston, the Eagle has landed*

My friends son (later 20s and a great guy) is pretty buff and stopped by to help lift the lathe….










Mounting holes lined up perfectly.

Now to bolt it down and see if I can put Humpty Dumpty back together again….

That pretty much wraps up the build… I'll post some pics and list it as a project when I'm up and running and again when I have Kaizen foam in the tool area.

Thanks for tuning in.


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Houston, the Eagle has landed*
> 
> My friends son (later 20s and a great guy) is pretty buff and stopped by to help lift the lathe….
> 
> ...


Looks great Matt.


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

ssnvet said:


> *Houston, the Eagle has landed*
> 
> My friends son (later 20s and a great guy) is pretty buff and stopped by to help lift the lathe….
> 
> ...


Looks good, Matt. What's going to be your first project?


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Houston, the Eagle has landed*
> 
> My friends son (later 20s and a great guy) is pretty buff and stopped by to help lift the lathe….
> 
> ...





> Looks great Matt.
> 
> - firefighterontheside


Yeah…. What he said!!!



> Looks good, Matt. What s going to be your first project?
> 
> - Gary


Yeah…. What he said!!!

It sure do look purdy….
Can't wait to see it all back together & the swarth pile up!!!
Yeah, you'll need to do a video….


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

ssnvet said:


> *Houston, the Eagle has landed*
> 
> My friends son (later 20s and a great guy) is pretty buff and stopped by to help lift the lathe….
> 
> ...


That's just too cool, Matt.


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## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Houston, the Eagle has landed*
> 
> My friends son (later 20s and a great guy) is pretty buff and stopped by to help lift the lathe….
> 
> ...


Solid project, Matt! Put up a notice when you're ready for metal-working commissions. +1 to a short video showing the machine and the operator's capabilities.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

ssnvet said:


> *Houston, the Eagle has landed*
> 
> My friends son (later 20s and a great guy) is pretty buff and stopped by to help lift the lathe….
> 
> ...


First two projects are going to be….
1. Make my own face vise hardware (similar to the Benchcrafters hardware)
2. Make a new y-axis ball screw for my little CNC bench top mill that will increase my travel and eliminate my backlash problems


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

ssnvet said:


> *Houston, the Eagle has landed*
> 
> My friends son (later 20s and a great guy) is pretty buff and stopped by to help lift the lathe….
> 
> ...


Ohhhh…....
Those sound like very interesting projects!!!

Uh…. video???


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## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

ssnvet said:


> *Houston, the Eagle has landed*
> 
> My friends son (later 20s and a great guy) is pretty buff and stopped by to help lift the lathe….
> 
> ...


Great, Matt. Very solid.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

ssnvet said:


> *Houston, the Eagle has landed*
> 
> My friends son (later 20s and a great guy) is pretty buff and stopped by to help lift the lathe….
> 
> ...


Turned out very nice. I know it sure is stout.


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