# Need help for creating a 2" edge on 2 large lazy susans for blind corner base cabinet.



## HarleySoftailDeuce (Jan 14, 2009)

Hi everyone,
I'm in the process of building kitchen cabinets for my first woodworking project. The carcasses are coming out fine, however, the 2 large lazy susans (32" dia) need a raised wooden lip to keep stuff from fallin g off. Does anyone have suggestions on how to make a curved band around these discs? Should I go so far as to create a steam box with PVC? ...or is there some simpler approach?
I'd appreciate any help I can get.

Paul


----------



## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

find someone with alarge outboard lathe capacity then that job should be relatively easy.Or bandsaw a glue up or router a glue up with say eight sides Alistair


----------



## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

In many lazy susan cabinets, a rounded wall of masonite is bent around a frame inside the carcass, surrounding the shelves so that anything that might fall has nowhere to go. This makes a lip pretty much unnecessary.


----------



## kolwdwrkr (Jul 27, 2008)

Rev-a-shelf makes a beautiful wooden lazy susan. That's the easiest way. Maybe not the cheapest. LOL. Personally I would do bent lamination. Cut strips that are 2 1/4 or larger X 1/16. You will need to make an MDF form that is the exact size of your round shelf. (doesn't have to be mdf, but why not) You may need to do this in halves, in fact it's almost a guarentee. So you glue up your pieces and clamp them to your round mdf form and let them dry. Next you scrape the glue off and run one edge through the bandsaw or over a jointer to make it flat. Then run it through the planer. (you can run it through the TS but at a risk you may want to avoid. I've done it and it's a little frightening) Once you have the shape and the height of your pieces taken care of it's time to cut them to lenth. Providing that your halves are a little more then half of the circle you should have plenty to cut off. So you cut one half to square up the edges. Put it on your project and mark both cut ends. Square up one end of other half and line it up on one of the marks you made. It will run past the other mark hopefully. Just transfer the mark to the second half and cut it square. Then use dowels or loose mortise and tenon for the joinery. If you have a finger joint bit you can go that route, but you will need to accomodate the cuts. 
Steam bending a 3/4 X 2" board into a circle will prove to be near impossible, especially when you go to make the joint. Anyhow hope that helped.


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

We take a piece of 1/4" baltic birch plywoodX 2 1/4" wide and glue and staple it around the edge of your susan. Then a little putty, sanding, and clear coating and you are done, We have done this for years in our cabinet shop they look as good as the ones you can buy.


----------



## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

I just made some 34 inch diameter rev shelves and wrapped 1/4"x 1 1/2" band around them. I used a ratchet strap to glue them on . If you want more details let me know.


----------



## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

3/4" birch shelf with 1/4" birch plywood band. 1/2" pine lips at the cutout edges. The flat spots in the band are not actually on the finished shelf. I didn't bother to smooth the radius in sketchup.


----------



## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

I placed some finish nails at the corners of the cut out and screwed the shelf to my table. After the ratchet strap is in place I tap the band down to the table and then tightened it more. Remove the screw in the center and clean up the excess glue. I let it dry over night, sanded the edges then finished.


----------



## HarleySoftailDeuce (Jan 14, 2009)

That makes it much clearer now. Thanks again for your help!
Paul


----------



## HarleySoftailDeuce (Jan 14, 2009)

Wow, another great idea. I've learned so much in a short while.
Thanks to all !


----------



## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

The 1/4 band needs to run by the cut out and glue to the ends of the cutout rim so the cut out rim has to be applied first. I dont know how you would fasten the 1/4 at the ends the other way.


----------



## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

I radiused the end of the ply strip and cutout strip with about a 1/2" radius with the belt sander. It looks good. I will post a photo later.


----------



## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

The cutout will be even more difficult than it already is with the plyband on it.
The glue joint at the end of the ply ban will be weak.
Nailing the band on will be difficult without four hands unless you rig up somthing to hold it on while you nail it.
Nailing the band on *before* putting the ratchet strap on it doesnt make sense. Nailing the band on *after* The ratchet strap is on doesnt make sense either. I will let you figure out why.
This is good stuff. It shows the difference between methods of construction of those that would do something and those that did do something.

Don't worry, my feelings aren't hurt.


----------



## dennis (Aug 3, 2006)

I wraped an 1/8 cherry strip around my pie. Stapled it on then wraped another 1/8 strip and glued it on…no holes to fill…sand and finish.
Glue lots of glue….


----------



## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

Yes Dennis…I would prefer to laminate the band on with some high quality hardwood, two or three layers. The process would be longer. All I had to work with was pine and it wasn't working out. It wasnt even clear pine. So…

bentlyj…thought you'd appreciate that.  Just a lttle humor. But the jab wasn't the only point I made. I have done several of these, having been a cab builder for over 35 years. This isn't my hobby, it's how I make my living. Of the 10 or 20 or 30 (who knows) lazy susans I've built I don't think I ever did one like this using 1/4" plywood for the band. I don't recall the others being any easier. I recked several pieces of band material trying to dry bend it around the 34 " diameter and found the ratchet strap helps in this regard. So.. I do indeed have a clue. In fact I have so many clues I share them for free with people like you. It's all good. BTW it's usually cheaper to buy the shelves but the sizes don't always workout and delivery time, shipping and availability doesnt always work out.

Now I am going to go laminate the tops.


----------



## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

goodness…i didnt cut up on you…i stated how i did something and stated the reasons why. It isnt about my level of experience. It's about giving advice to some one that asked for it and HIS level of experience. No amount of obfuscation will eliminate the fact that the cutout in a 30 inch circle will be easier to cut prior to putting the band on it…but then I am used to precision.


----------



## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

lol
dang i took the pics today and left my cam at the shop!


----------



## dennis (Aug 3, 2006)

Pine is almost impossible to bend…unless you want it to be straight.


----------



## HarleySoftailDeuce (Jan 14, 2009)

Geez, I have so many things to learn! 
I am grateful for all your replies, and will do my level best to work through this hurdle.

Paul


----------



## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)




----------



## HarleySoftailDeuce (Jan 14, 2009)

Geez….I started a war ! 
Next question; what hardwood would be most able to take the bend? I really enjoyed all the responses I got, and I'm still laughing  All your help is really appreciated.

Paul


----------



## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

Paul here is the indexed version. If you do it this way and want some dimmensions I can send them to you on a pdf. This drawing is showing 3/4 stock on the band with a 3/8 rabbit. I would need to know the exact sizes you want. I started this one 32" pt. to pt. I imagine you'd have to fit each piece as you build it. If you decide to bend and laminate I'm not sure as far as typically available hard woods like maple or oak the it makes much difference which species as much as the specific pieces of lumber and how it's resized. A uniform grain will give the most consistant radius. Rift sawn strips may not bend as uniformly as quartersawn strips but it may not be an issue. 32" is getting pretty tight for anything thicker than 1/8 dry (I think)


----------



## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

Paul, Here is the layout for the sled to make a 12 sided disk 30" across flats. The method I use to make the sled is in the message I sent you. Fasten the disk to the sled with a finishnail or screw then patch the hole when your're done. I'd recommend predrilling in the disk and sled (snug hole) so you can locate the pivot point. You didn't tell me if you wanted the disks reduced for the 3/4" extra edge material so I didnt do it.


----------

