# took lots of abuse, then died, amazon replaced



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

I have the 734 so a bit different but I turn mine about a 1/2 turn. If the wood has an uneven top to it then I start out turning it about a 1/4 turn. If you don't have a jointer and the bottom is twisted or warped, well you won't flatten it using the planer this way and a slight turn down could cause it much distress. My guess is that you might have stressed it. The breaker in the motor should have stopped it before it heated up to much though.


----------



## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Your fault

No. It's not designed to take abuse. Quite the opposite.

DC might had contributed.

I turn mine 1/4-3/8

It if sounds like the motor is working too hard then it is.


----------



## playingwithmywood (Jan 10, 2014)

yea seems like a duty cycle issue I wonder is Dewalt has a Duty cycle listed for this machine

I have one and it has been great but I have treated it gentle


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

+1 about over working it. It is a good planer but probably not for they way you used it. Nice that Amazon replaced it.


----------



## Jeff28078 (Aug 27, 2009)

100% your fault. Amazon ate that one.


----------



## woodmiser404 (Mar 2, 2014)

Definitely your fault. I've had my planer for years and have never cut deeper then a 32nd. In fact, I made a plastic wheel that only takes off about a 64th and that reduced the snipe to almost nothing. Personally, Amazon was extreme generous in replacing your unit.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

half turn MAXIMUM!


----------



## steffen707 (Feb 14, 2012)

Its funny all of you say 1/32 maximum, even though the planer itself shows a depth gauge of 1/8" for 3" boards, 3/32 for 6" boards, 1/16" for 9" boards and 1/32 for 13" boards. I stayed under those limits. I guess it does say MAXIMUM. Oh well. Thanks Amazon/Dewalt!


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

My policy in general is that I should never force a machine.

When the planer wouldn't feed the boards, it was telling you that something was wrong. Either the cut was too heavy, the feed rollers were gummed up with pitch, the wood was dragging, the knives were dull… whatever the case, don't force feed machines.

I don't have the 735, but there are many, many reviews claiming that the knives dull quickly. Dull knives can't cut clean with little force back on the lumber. The feed rollers can only apply so much force to the board before they slip…. and then when you force feed it, all will go down hill quickly.

WRT the DC issue…. the high flow of air serves not only to evacuate the chips, but also to cool the machine. Shop vacs provide high static presser differential (suck) but low air flow. DCs provide lower static pressure differential, but move a LOT more air.


----------



## steffen707 (Feb 14, 2012)

> My policy in general is that I should never force a machine.
> 
> When the planer wouldn t feed the boards, it was telling you that something was wrong. Either the cut was too heavy, the feed rollers were gummed up with pitch, the wood was dragging, the knives were dull… whatever the case, don t force feed machines.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the suggestions Matt. Next time i'll try to take less material off when its struggling. I'm thinking lack of jointing the boards to begin with was also a big culprit. I was hoping to be able to do this job without needing a jointer, but perhaps that's just not going to happen.


----------



## christherookie (Jan 22, 2010)

For the number of people who said it was you're fault, I'm happy….because usually things are MY fault.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Yes, you can take the maximum cuts in t h e manual. But taking max cuts on hundreds of boards is too much. I also think that your bad dust collection was a big factor. But having too much back pressroom limited the air flow which also provides cooling. Your dust collection setup is really strange. I think you would be better off just running a dryer duct or 4" flex hose into a trash can. I ran mine for years that way.

When you run equipment you have to listen to it and watch it. I can tell on my DW735 when the cut depth is too much.

Unfortunately, you killed the machine and I think Amazon is going beyond what they should do.


----------



## HankLP (Jan 9, 2017)

Doesn't this thing have an overload shutoff and a reset switch (or button)?


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

+1 for Matt's comment on dull knives. First, the 735 knives are embarrassingly cheap and get dull quicker than my old 733 knives by a long shot. With the cutting you did, they were probably dull about a quarter of the way into your job.

I found out quickly how badly dull knives slow down the feed rate. I had made a few dozen very light passes with new knives through some end grain mesquite. Even as I did the last couple of pieces I noticed it was dragging a little. When I started planing the regular boards long grain, it would barely feed them. I had to push the board. This is all over the course of about 20 minutes. I flipped the blades and it fed like a champ. I've since upgraded to a shelix and never looked back.


----------



## steffen707 (Feb 14, 2012)

> +1 for Matt s comment on dull knives. First, the 735 knives are embarrassingly cheap and get dull quicker than my old 733 knives by a long shot. With the cutting you did, they were probably dull about a quarter of the way into your job.
> 
> I found out quickly how badly dull knives slow down the feed rate. I had made a few dozen very light passes with new knives through some end grain mesquite. Even as I did the last couple of pieces I noticed it was dragging a little. When I started planing the regular boards long grain, it would barely feed them. I had to push the board. This is all over the course of about 20 minutes. I flipped the blades and it fed like a champ. I ve since upgraded to a shelix and never looked back.
> 
> - Rich


Thanks for the input Rich.


----------



## steffen707 (Feb 14, 2012)

> Your dust collection setup is really strange. I think you would be better off just running a dryer duct or 4" flex hose into a trash can. I ran mine for years that way.
> - Redoak49


Here is my setup. After I reduced the passes to 1/32 or less, the sequential cyclone with shop vac worked like a champ.

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/11665


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

> Your dust collection setup is really strange. I think you would be better off just running a dryer duct or 4" flex hose into a trash can. I ran mine for years that way.
> - Redoak49
> 
> Here is my setup. After I reduced the passes to 1/32 or less, the sequential cyclone with shop vac worked like a champ.
> ...


I have never seen a dust collector set up like that and it is very strange.


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Yup, right here. If I have a bunch of cut pieces for a project that I have to plane to 3/4", it does take multiple passes and a long time. But in the end you've got a stack of stuff, straight, flat, and smooth ready to work with so it's all worth it.

I can tell if I'm taking off too much at a time or my blades are getting dull when the planer seems to labor more. Sometimes if I have narrow pieces, say for cabinet doors I can get a little more life out of them by putting one or two narrow pieces in at a time.

If you're doing a large width, 10" or so then you've got to take thin swipes. You can hear the planer groaning if you don't.

And if the thermal cutoff trips a few times as you're working then the planer has been overtaxed either by too thick swipes or dull blades.

Beyond that a little Johnson's paste wax on the bed and outfeed tables makes a huge difference too.


----------



## steffen707 (Feb 14, 2012)

> And if the thermal cutoff trips a few times as you re working then the planer has been overtaxed either by too thick swipes or dull blades.
> 
> - Craftsman on the lake


Man i wish the thermal cutoff worked. It just died and burned up. Never had anybody show me how to use a planer, and never had a woodshop class. I'll take your guy's advice and go thinner & slower.


----------



## steffen707 (Feb 14, 2012)

> Your dust collection setup is really strange. I think you would be better off just running a dryer duct or 4" flex hose into a trash can. I ran mine for years that way.
> - Redoak49
> 
> Here is my setup. After I reduced the passes to 1/32 or less, the sequential cyclone with shop vac worked like a champ.
> ...


Well if you've never seen one and its strange it must not work…....works like a charm actually. Also this DC setup was done AFTER the first planer died, so you can't attribute the setup to the demise of the first planer.


----------



## steffen707 (Feb 14, 2012)

Thanks to everybody that provided positive feedback. I'll put your comments to good use. Hopefully others find this discussion useful. I talked with Oneida Air and they said my current sequential cyclone DC is just fine. i'm no longer subscribing to this post.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

Live and learn!

Good luck with the replacement.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

There are a number of things newbies can learn from this

Just because a machine has a maximum depth of cut does not mean you should use it especially for continuous operation such as hundreds of passes.

Running rough cut boards through a planer will dull the blades and cause it to work harder. The blades on the DW735 have had issues of not lasting long.

I think that the dust collection may have had a part in over heating the planer. Restricting the air flow would cause heat problems with continuous long time operation.

I do not know what extension cords the operator was using but I always use heavy duty ones.

This is a bench top planer. I have one and use it for lighter work or finish planing. For heavy duty work and rough sawn wood , I use a 15" 3 hp planer.


----------



## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

I'll let you off the hook; it wasn't your fault.

Yes, you were abusing the planer, but the motor should have tripped before it burned up. I've tripped mine quite a few times when dimensioning a lot of lumber. Sounds like the overload was bad from the factory.

I agree with everyone else though, 1/2 turn max in most cases.

If you really want a planer that can hog some wood, you need to buy a heavier duty planer.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

The manual shows that it has a 18 amp circuit breaker. There is not a thermal overload. it is likely he did not exceed the 18 amps but just over heated the motor f o r a long time.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

One thing that's bothering me in this thread is the notion that the depth of cut is a constant. I realize DeWalt has the chart on the depth gauge for the 735, and that makes some difference, but the biggest factor is the wood. Different woods and grain patterns put different loads on the cutter. With experience you can tell by the sound and adjust your cut depth accordingly.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Rich..you are correct about listening to your machine. You can tell when a machine is working too hard. In this case, you have someone new to the planer and did not recognize what was happening. I can tell with mine when I am taking too much off by the sound. I only run mine on the slower speed.

Very fortunate that it is being replaced.


----------



## PlanBWoodworks (Jan 29, 2017)

While I agree that OP overworked the planer, and that I have never seen a dc setup like that, I disagree with the 1/2 turn max guidance. I have a DW734 and when I must remove a significant amount of material, I always rotate 1 full turn between passes. I remember Glen Huey specifically advising in an episode of 360 Woodworking that a planer is designed to remove significant amounts of material and performs better when removing a thicker pass as opposed to a thinner. I have performed countless passes at 1 full turn in many different species, and have had absolutely no adverse effects.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> I remember Glen Huey specifically advising in an episode of 360 Woodworking that a planer is designed to remove significant amounts of material and performs better when removing a thicker pass as opposed to a thinner.
> 
> - PlanBWoodworks


Yes. Finally someone who saw Glen say that. I've been harping on that since I joined LJ, and still all I hear is people incorrectly saying to take light passes to reduce tear out. The only time I take light passes is when I'm sneaking up on an exact thickness.


----------



## playingwithmywood (Jan 10, 2014)

> I remember Glen Huey specifically advising in an episode of 360 Woodworking that a planer is designed to remove significant amounts of material and performs better when removing a thicker pass as opposed to a thinner.
> 
> - PlanBWoodworks
> 
> ...


I do not think that applies to a machine well this machine on 110 volts it is was a regular motor on 220 then I would agree


----------



## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

In summary, if you have a piece of equipment you don't know how to use, take a few minutes, start an LJ forum post and ask some questions. As evidenced here, folks are more than willing to provide useful, and helpful tips.

It is a lot cheaper than replacing a machine that broke because you misused it, or worse, getting hurt because you don't understand how to use it correctly.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> I do not think that applies to a machine well this machine on 110 volts it is was a regular motor on 220 then I would agree
> 
> - playingwithmywood


Why would the voltage matter?


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

What does it mean to perform better when taking a thicker amount. Can someone tell me what the guy used to determine this. This comment is interesting but needs some more information.

With my 735, when I take a thicker cut it is working harder. I would love if someone could measure the amps with a thin cut versus a thick cut. It is hard to believe that the amps would be lower with a thicker cut.


----------



## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> What does it mean to perform better when taking a thicker amount. Can someone tell me what the guy used to determine this. This comment is interesting but needs some more information.
> 
> With my 735, when I take a thicker cut it is working harder. I would love if someone could measure the amps with a thin cut versus a thick cut. It is hard to believe that the amps would be lower with a thicker cut.
> 
> - Redoak49


It's Glen Huey in a video. In it he states that taking light passes increases the risk of chip out due to the blades skipping over the surface rather than taking a real cut. I'm paraphrasing, but that's the gist of the message. At the time I saw it I still had my 733 and I found that taking deeper cuts did seem to reduce the chip out, although with that planer it was never eliminated.

Nowadays having a 735 with shelix head, chip out is a thing of the past, so I don't even think about it anymore.


----------



## Jacksdad (Mar 28, 2017)

The biggest thing with planing is listen to it, if your ru ning a board through and it really bogs down, you are taking to much off. I have the dw733 and I take a half turn off hardwood and if I have new knives I take a full turn off pine, but I listen to the motor.


----------



## PlanBWoodworks (Jan 29, 2017)

> I remember Glen Huey specifically advising in an episode of 360 Woodworking that a planer is designed to remove significant amounts of material and performs better when removing a thicker pass as opposed to a thinner.
> 
> - PlanBWoodworks
> 
> ...


Playingwithmywood,

I have the Dewalt 734 on 110. No problems with a full turn at all.



> What does it mean to perform better when taking a thicker amount. Can someone tell me what the guy used to determine this. This comment is interesting but needs some more information.
> 
> With my 735, when I take a thicker cut it is working harder. I would love if someone could measure the amps with a thin cut versus a thick cut. It is hard to believe that the amps would be lower with a thicker cut.
> 
> - Redoak49


Redoak49,

In my admittedly novice opinion, I believe that Glen meant that deeper cuts produced a smoother, more uniform surface. That has been my experience.


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

The theme of this thread was burning up a planer and not the quality of the cut. Taking shallower cut puts less strain on the motor and less heat buildup.

The OP took max cuts according to the planer mfg recommendation and worked the planer very hard.


----------



## PlanBWoodworks (Jan 29, 2017)

You asked what was meant by stating a planer performs better when a thicker pass was taken. I was attempting to answer that. I agree that OP was totally at fault for the failure of his planer.


----------



## Jeff28078 (Aug 27, 2009)

Depth of cut is totally dependent on the wood. A full turn on pine may be OK but entirely different on red oak or hickory.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

I have a 734, take light cuts, never had an issue


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I relooked at the OPs posts. He recently asked a question about a carport to store his 6000 bf.of rough sawn wood.

If I had that much wood to process thru a planer, I would have found a heavier duty planer like one of the 15" 3hp planers sold by every mfg. I also would think thru my blade choice and what makes the most sense in the long-term.

If money were no object, I would buy a 15" planer with a carbide insert cutter head and a good dust collect. Maybe process and sell some of the wood to pay for equipment.


----------



## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

I am quite sorry to say but it was all your fault and to be honest you owe Amazon the funds for the new one you received.

It was never meant that much going thru it and taking off that much at a time. Is this the first time you used one?

Also did you read the instructions before use?

I am not trying to be mean just the truth and like I said I believe you should pay for the new one also. Your learning curve should not be the fault of the manufacture.


----------



## BKP (Feb 23, 2019)

I'm new to this board, but not to woodworking-just retired so lots more time to indulge. I've owned the DW734, an old Makita 2012, and the DW735X for a while, and have learned a couple of things about the latter:
- 1/4 to 1/2 turns *max* (despite the wood type-even less for hickory, pecan, the harder exotics, etc.) I tend to leave it on the finishing speed, so there are more cuts per second (only actual difference is the slower feed speed). So, regardless of the mfg recommendation, err conservatively.
- If you're planing a cupped or twisted piece, you'll never get two flat coplaner faces just running it through and flipping it. It just stresses the rollers, and gets you a thinner cupped or twisted piece. If you don't have a jointer, construct a perfectly flat sled (baltic birch or mdf) and surface it with self adhesive sandpaper. Shim the side of your project piece that rocks, so it's steady on the sled, and doesn't rock at all. Mark (pencil) the top of the piece (so you can see where the hills/valleys are), and plane ONLY that side until it's properly flat (jointed) with no more pencil marks showing. Only then, turn it over, and plane the other side. A peripheral benefit of the sled is that it reduces or eliminates snipe (assuming it's longer than your project piece).
- Not sure, but your pic looks like you have a 2-1/2" hose on the ejection port. Even though chips ONLY fly out of that 2-1/2" diameter port on the 735, the impeller fan is *so* powerful, you may get chip blow-back when a 4" hose is not attached, instead of a 2-1/2". This stresses the fan, as well as the planer, and you end up with a good amount of shavings on the bed (is that not the case with your setup?). The recommendation is NOT to use a shop vac, and the fact is, you don't need it. I have my planer on a caster-based table, with a 3-foot long 4" flex hose on the ejection port, that terminates in a 30 micron DustRight bag on a shelf under the router (I have a 4" to 5" coupler going into the bag). So, it's an isolated setup. Takes a while to fill that big bag, I don't stress the impeller, and don't need the DC running when I'm planing.
I know this was a long post… hope someone gets some value out of it…


----------

