# New Incra I Box calibrations



## StoutSawdust (Jan 21, 2018)

Hey guys,

I have been fiddling with my new Incra I Box jig all weekend. I watched all youtube videos and the included DVD. After trying both kiss calibrations setup methods from the DVD the spacing is still too big far for my pins to interlock on my box joint.

I finally got the joints to work after sticking my caliper between the pin plates and saw blade then micro adjusting til there was no gap between the pinpoints and the blade.

Not so quick and easy as the video showed. Has anyone else had similar problems?


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Yep. I've commented on here many times that Incra makes great products, but they really oversell those KISS Calibration type concepts in their videos. I've yet to find anything of theirs that's as easy to set up as they make it look. Your use of calipers is the right way to go.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

I use the 1/4in setup bar when setting up my I-Box. Sure, a little fine adjustment will still be needed, but this will get you very close.
Buy a brass setup bar set, such as :
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/whiteside-5-piece-brass-set-up-gauges-4 
or
https://www.rockler.com/precision-brass-setup-bars


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## ScottM (Jul 10, 2012)

I'm really not sure how you got THAT far off. Send Incra an email and see what they may be able to suggest for "resetting" your adjustments. Those guys are great with product support.


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## StoutSawdust (Jan 21, 2018)

Thanks guys, I will try to get a hold of Incra.

I'm definitely getting those setup gauges! Thanks for the link.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

The problem with Incra's method for setting it up is that there are two places where it's very subjective. First, when you bring the jig's fingers together you can't tell absolutely when they are just touching, and there is a fraction of a turn of the red knob between what might be touching and when they are pressed together. Likewise, when you open them out to fit the kerf of your test cut, precisely how tight should they be? Again, there is a fraction of a turn of the red knob between a fit and a snug fit. All of that is enough to completely screw up the joint since turning the red knob also changes the distance from the fingers to the cutter - and the finger width on the board.

There are really only two factors involved since the kerf width is constant. One is the width of the jig's fingers and how tight the boards fit over them, and the space from the outer finger face to the bit (I prefer using a router). I find that a good firm fit in the board kerfs is essential for consistency. If you can just drop the board onto them, there's too much play. I like to set them so I have to push the board down onto it.

After that, the rest is easy. You can use your calipers to adjust the silver knob and get the perfect finger width and you're done. I find I don't even need to make a test cut. Before cutting expensive wood I do one on some scrap to be safe, but it's always perfect.

The reason I like to use the router table is that when making the cuts, I only have to slide the jig a couple of inches for each pass.

Also, since I work almost exclusively with a 5/16" diameter bit, I don't have to do any adjustments at all. Just drop the jig on the router table and cut away.


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## newwoodbutcher (Aug 6, 2010)

I've been using the IBox jig with the Forrest 2-Piece flat bottom Finger Joint Set of blades for a few years now. I do a fair amount of finger joints I'm my projects. I set up the IBox jig when I first got it with the Kiss procedure and my Forrest finger joint blades stacked at 1/4". I always make a test piece but haven't Re-adjusted the jig since the first time and my finger joints are near perfect every time.


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## StoutSawdust (Jan 21, 2018)

Since I'm still in the return window I'm going to exchange it. If the second one has the same micro adjust after the fact issue I will just live with it and call Incra.

Still getting those brass bar sets though!


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

> Since I m still in the return window I m going to exchange it. If the second one has the same micro adjust after the fact issue I will just live with it and call Incra.
> 
> Still getting those brass bar sets though!
> 
> - StoutSawdust


IMO, hold off on returning it for an exchange. What you are showing/describing is NOT the fault of the jig, only an adjustment issue.

And as others have pointed out, use it on several pieces of scrap wood while tuning in on a perfect fit.


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## Peteybadboy (Jan 23, 2013)

I also use the ibox a lot. I use Freud box joint blades. I set it up once for 1/4 then again for 5/16? and have not touched it building several boxes. I must admit I ran back and forth watching the DVD to the table saw and back to get it right. I'm happy with it.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Everything is based on getting the space between the blade and register pin equal to the blade thickness.

The register pin spacing is something you learn by feel.

What I do is

1) make a couple cuts
2) re-adjust the pin so its pretty snug
3) adjust the space between pin and blade.

I also found you don't need to make a whole side, just make a couple cuts and use a micrometer to measure the pin & dial it in to fit the kerf the way you want.

You'll get it when you:

1) remember which way to turn the silver knob
2) remember to hold the red knob when you adjust the silver knob
3) REMEMBER TO LOOSEN THE *&^% SET SCREW


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

So. is there a consensus among owners and users that the jig works well? The advertised features of the thing make it appealing.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

> So. is there a consensus among owners and users that the jig works well? The advertised features of the thing make it appealing.
> - ArtMann


YES, it does work well. It just takes a bit of practice learning how the "two" adjusting mechanisms-in-one works, locks, and how to hold one while adjusting the other.


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## ScottM (Jul 10, 2012)

> YES, it does work well. It just takes a bit of practice learning how the "two" adjusting mechanisms-in-one works, locks, and how to hold one while adjusting the other.
> 
> - HorizontalMike


And also using it often enough to remember!! That's always my problem.


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## DanielP (Mar 21, 2013)

Adding a second miter slot guide helps with accuracy.


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## StoutSawdust (Jan 21, 2018)

> So. is there a consensus among owners and users that the jig works well? The advertised features of the thing make it appealing.
> 
> - ArtMann


Yeah, it works well, I would still recommend it for sure. Still a smooth process for quick box joints, just not as smooth as the videos have you believe.


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

Thanks guys for the advice! I am usually very good about adapting to and using new equipment that requires some subtle adjustment. I have a woodworking friend who received one as a gift but has never tried it. He prefers his Leigh jig that works on a router table. I think I can acquire it economically. Sorry to hijack the thread.


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## StoutSawdust (Jan 21, 2018)

> Thanks guys for the advice! I am usually very good about adapting to and using new equipment that requires some subtle adjustment. I have a woodworking friend who received one as a gift but has never tried it. He prefers his Leigh jig that works on a router table. I think I can acquire it economically. Sorry to hijack the thread.
> 
> - ArtMann


Well, hopefully he gives you a good deal! I decided to get the porter cable dovetail jig after my return but will pick up another one later.


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