# Bandsaw blade burning wood



## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

I probably just need a new blade but figured it wouldn't hurt to ask! I have an old Jet 14" bandsaw with a riser kit, cool blocks, urethane tires, and Timberwolf 1/4" 6tpi blade. The blade is about 3 years old and has been great, but lately, I have started seeing burn marks on the 2-3" thick basswood I am cutting out. I got concerned when it started smoking a bit! I used a brush and attempted to clean the blade a bit and even wiped some PAM on it per a tip from the Timberwolf web site. Should I take it off and soak it in some blade cleaner? I don't see any pitch or dust built up on it and it seems to cut ok except it has started burning the wood. It seems to be worse on one side of the cut than the other. Any suggestions?


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

*When re-sawing thicker wood you should use a 3 TPI blade it removes the sawdust better to prevent binding.*


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

A 1/4" blade is a bit too narrow for wood that thick, and 6tpi won't clear. Get a new blade too.
Bill


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## Goody (Nov 3, 2011)

A couple of things could be the problem. Teeth per inch and rake, feed rate of the material, density of the material, Blade rpm, and sharpness of the blade. If its the saw I think it is I have the exact same saw with the riser. If you have two belts in the back I would set it midrange. That saw will also cut metal and has some pulley settings that I find just too fast for wood. I don't use the Timberwolf anymore I cut a lot of reclamed wood and no matter how much you check you will miss a nail or a bullet. I have went to the blades that Industrial Abrasives sells. They are half the price of a Timberwolf and I can abuse the heck out of them. Timberwolf is an excellent blade for your purposes if all you are doing is cutting carving roughouts. Three years sounds like it may be time to retire that blade. I am sometimes surprised when I change a blade. Didn't reaize the blade on the saw was dull or bent. Knowing that saw and knowing what you cut out I would change the blade first. I would say the blade you are using is the best compromise between resawing and whipping around curves like we do. For rough outs I like a 3/16" wide blade,


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

I thought about going to something like 4tpi. I'm looking to buy some Pfeil tools and stuff from Woodcraft while they are still 15% off and thought I would get a new blade from them, but they don't have the Timberwolf in 3/16th 4tpi, only 10tpi. The 1/4" size is indeed a compromise, I just worry that the 3/16 wouldn't work for how I cut. I'll look at the industrial Abrasives though.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

With a 6tpi blade … even if it IS sharp … pack a lunch, bring a lawn chair, and slow your feed rate WAY down.

I'd get a 1/2" Wood Slicer, and be done with it, though


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

I was thinking a 6 TPI blade trying to cut stock that thick seems a bit toothy…

Are you cutting tight curves in this or something? If not, try a 1/2" 3TPI blade. I have the Timberwolf and have been very happy with mine, but more recent buyers report weld problems with theirs, You might want to try a Woodslicer instead…


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

Mike - take a look at your cool blocks. Sometimes the blade will wear a grove and give you tracking issues by "Holding" your blade a bit cocked.
I occasionally need to square up the face of the cool blocks on the disk sander


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

Since Goody has cut way more stuff than I ever will, I have ordered both the 3/16th and the 1/4 inch blades in 4tpi from Industrial Abrasive for $11.05 each plus $7 shipping. Seems like a great price and I'll get the chance to see which I like best! Thanks Goody!


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

You can use oven cleaner, but you can also put the blade in
soapy water and soak it. Then you can scrub the teeth with
a bristle brush and the pitch will come off.


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## mpounders (Jun 22, 2010)

Yeah, most of the curves are tight, so 1/2" is a little too big. The 1/4" is bigger than what most use for cutting out carving blanks also, but I just worked around it. I'm going to try the 4tpi on some new blades (I probably bought the 6tpi out of ignorance), but will also take a look at my blocks and may try cleaning just for fun. Thanks everyone for good advice! You'll make me into a woodworker one of these days!


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## Goody (Nov 3, 2011)

If you can get a hold of some lignum-vitlale from old boat propeller shafts. Cut into cool blocks the natural oils in it works great and the wood is really hard. Its hard to find the real stuff and theres some wood being sold as lignum but its not the same as the old stuff. I just put a Kreg resaw fence on my saw. Probably should have put a fence on long ago. With a six tpi 3/8 blade I cut a few veneers that you can see thru.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I would try cleaning that blade really well (I soak in Simple Green) and then wax it with the saw running. I use a big candle to wax my bandsaw blades. It does improve their mileage and they don't crud up as badly when cutting pitchy woods. If this doesn't fix it, its time for new blades. I have cut a lot of bandsaw boxes from 8" thick fir using a 6tpi TWolf and had no burning, but I always get some burning when resawing Osage Orange even with a new 2 tpi blade.


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