# Using plastic laminate on only one side of plywood.



## AndrewWilkerson (Sep 24, 2013)

I have a problem. I want to laminate the interiors of some cabinets I am making with white plastic laminate. I have laminated cabinets before, so I have the contact cement spray gun and all the right flush trim bits. I have always laminated both sides of the plywood to balance it out. In this project though I want the interior to be plastic laminate for durability and easy of cleaning but I want the outside to be bamboo veneer. I want to put on the bamboo veneer last so that I can cover all nail and screw holes. The problem is that I know that if I laminate one side of the plywood, by the time machine all the joints into it and assemble it the plywood will have warped. Does anyone know a trick to keep plywood from warping from laminate. Seal the other side with lacquer or shellac?

Thanks!


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## Nomad62 (Apr 20, 2010)

I have never done such a thing, so I'm guessing….take it for what it's worth. It seems to me that the plywood will move no matter what (as it acclimates to the home environment), but since an unmovable surface will be attached to only one side the other side will do all the moving, causing said warp. Perhaps drying the plywood pieces well before attaching the laminate will relieve the problem? Could MDF be used instead? Simply my two cents worth, change is available ;-)


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## Walt447 (Aug 18, 2010)

instead of laminating the inside why not use two panels of plywood and put the bad face to bad face and glue the panel together then use several coats of polyurethane to the inside. That would make the inside washable and just as attractive as the outside.


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

First - you can buy prelaminated ply from cabinet suppliers
or
After laminating one side, cut your panels out, then clamp them flat until you're ready for them
or
sealcoat the other side, which will help keep moisture out, but may not prevent warp.
No matter how you do this, make sure you are using a cabinet grade ply, which you cannot get at the big boxes.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

What kind of joinery are you planning to use?

I would use confirmats but you may not want to fuss
with setting up for those. Pocket screws draw
parts together just as well but with confirmats the
holes are pre-drilled so the parts line up. I might
drill the holes before laminating then drill out the 
laminate where needed.

Glue won't stick to the laminate obviously.

Like Sam says above, store it flat.


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

I have to ask this, but are you sure plywood will warp laminated one side with melamine? (it is melamine right?).
The crossed grain layers of plywood should make it dimensionally stable in every direction. I'm only asking because I've never heard of ply going out of shape like this before. Please correct me if I'm wrong.


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## MarkwithaK (Sep 12, 2009)

Couldn't you simply used the laminated chipboard (I don't like it but I know it is used) and then simply attach a 1/4 panel to the show side with the veneer applied?


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Plastic laminate. I think the plywood might warp a bit but
if the plywood is good stuff I don't think it is likely to
be a problem as long as it is stored well in the interval
between laminating and assembly.


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## AndrewWilkerson (Sep 24, 2013)

Yes plywood does warp when laminated on one side. I have tried MDF, AC plywood. I don't think I have ever tried laminating cabinet grade plywood. I have had 1/2" birch plywood warp when I veneered it with 1/4" bamboo plywood. And that happened even though I glued them and clamped them to a flat surface. It took less than a day for the bow to appear after I removed them from the clamps (clamp time was a few days). I am glad that you mentioned pre laminated plywood. I hadn't thought about that option. I don't want to use MDF or Melamine because of durability. These cabinets will be cash registers for a my hardware store so they will take a ton of abuse. 250K transactions per year over a 5 year plus life span.

As for joinery I was going to use mostly dado and rabbit joints. I doubt I will use dovetails for anything but the drawers boxes. That should take out some of the bow but I haven't had great luck getting square carcasses when only laminating one side of the plywood.

Earlextech, I assume you where talking about Zinsser Bulls eye Seal Coat? I haven't tried coating the exposed side with that.

At this point I think I might just go with 3/4" bamboo plywood. It would be stronger and since I won't have to laminate anything it might be cheaper in the end.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

If you are using solvent based contact cement (not that water based stuff) you could coat both sides with shellac. 
I'd be more concerned about water based glue on one side and solvent on the other so the seal coat should help avoid that.


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## AndrewWilkerson (Sep 24, 2013)

I am using solvent based contact cement, prayed with a gun for the laminate and extended set tightbond glue on on the bamboo veneer. I'll try shellacing both sides. I am really leaning towards 3/4" bamboo at this point. once you add in the cost of prelam and the cost of 1/4" bamboo the price is almost the same as 3/4" bamboo. Factor in the time required and 3/4" bamboo comes out on top.

I'll still try a 2'x2' sample shellaced on both sides. I want to see what would work when this problem comes up again for me or anyone else.


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