# Equipping the Shop



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

*Starting Point*

Hi folks!

From time to time I've read posts on the LJ forum, but this is the first time I've posted, or rather blogged here.

A bit of background about myself. My father was at one time a high-school shop teacher, but for reasons I can only guess (and I have a pretty good guess), he never taught me woodworking - and did little woodworking during the years I grew up. The only shop/stationary power tools that Dad had were a *Craftsman, model 100 RAS, dating back to the mid-50*'s and some kind of *12" planer *he picked up used along the way but never bought a motor for. Some years ago, thinking I would never use it, I gave the planer away to my old pastor who had helped me pull a stump. When I went with him to his shop to help him unload it, it turned out that the pastor already had a 20" planer and a 42!!" planer. I'm thinking I may be able to get Dad's old planer back - tho I'm still not sure I'll want it.

My guess at why Dad never taught me woodworking is that Mom probably feared I'd cut off some useful body part (which is a very reasonable fear for any parent). So far I've managed to avoid that.

The 50's model RAS I still have and use, in fact my most recent project was to build an 8-foot left extension table with a 104" Incra track on it to convert the RAS into a crosscutting station - for both length cuts and dados.

As I've written in my profile, I've been a beginning woodworker for 12 years and I figure I'll continue to be a beginning woodworker for another year or two before I become (hopefully), and moderatly skilled intermediate amateur.

So, I've current got in the shop

55-year-old Craftsman RAS - with 80-tooth, thin kerf Freud blade.
12-year-old Ridgid TS2424 - with the same Freud blade, 
Harbor Freight 6" joiner (still in the box - just bought it a couple of weeks ago)
HF 2HP dust collector (also still in the box)
HF "smallest DP ever" ($50 item)

Porter-Cable circular saw (I cut panels on the floor with a clamp-on guide)
HF plunge router I picked up for $50 a few weeks ago,
various other hand power tools.

I hope to aquire soon

Bandsaw
Router Table and associated positioning system.
TS fence upgrade
TS miter sled.

OK, that's a long post - better stop.

-Ocelot


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Starting Point*
> 
> Hi folks!
> 
> ...


Thanks for the welcome, Christopher. I wasn't sure anybody would notice a blog post from a newby.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Ocelot said:


> *Starting Point*
> 
> Hi folks!
> 
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Let me add my welcome as well and say that we are glad to have you on board, Ocelot. And thanks for the introduction too.


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## GaryD (Mar 5, 2009)

Ocelot said:


> *Starting Point*
> 
> Hi folks!
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Hey welcome to LJ's, you will find this place addicting. But everyone here is ready and willing to give you valuable information when you need it. I think you have a great start on a workshop, I remeber when I moved to South Carolina from Maryland, I sold alot of my fathers/grandfathers tools, ( I was 21 and didnt know better), now wishing I had kept alot of them, if for nothing else, the history of them. But again welcome


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Ocelot said:


> *Starting Point*
> 
> Hi folks!
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Welcome aboard. What condition is the RAS in? I love to see new life brought back into old tools.


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## GregD (Oct 24, 2009)

Ocelot said:


> *Starting Point*
> 
> Hi folks!
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I suggest you consider adding one of these to your DC when you can swing it, unless you plan on venting your DC outside. I would be concerned about breathing air coming out of a 5 micron filter.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Starting Point*
> 
> Hi folks!
> 
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Hey Greg,

I've already seen the threads about that, and thought it was a great idea. I'll consider when I've got the thing set up (and have a bandsaw to cut the circular mounting plate.) I may end up building a liittle lean-to or detached shed out back with the DC and air compressor in it. (Hopefully set up so that the compressor doesn't suck in the dust.) In that case, I'll not worry about the diff between 5 micron and 0.5 micron. Heck, I could even just skip the bag and blow the dust out a hole in the back of the shop. There's nobody back there to notice the mess. 

And right now, I've got no DC at all. Besides, Sam Maloof lived to be 93 and probably didn't have 0.5 micron filters until the last 20 years or so, and I don't plan to spend that much time in the shop.

-Paul


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

Ocelot said:


> *Starting Point*
> 
> Hi folks!
> 
> ...


Welcome to Lumberjocks, Ocelot.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Ocelot said:


> *Starting Point*
> 
> Hi folks!
> 
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Congrats,Ocelot. Sounds like you is off to a great start.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

*RAS side table with Incra Rail and Stop*

Over the past couple of weeks, as I've found time, I've built a 8-ft side table for the old Craftsman Radial Arm Saw so that I can easily cut things to length and do crosscut dados. I have a bookcase project that I started before this - during which I realized that before I cut all those dados I need a precision length stop.

A few thoughts (mini-review) on the Incra track.

Had I realized that this is the old-style Incra track (non-flip-stop), I might have considered the newer one, even though it was a bit more expensive.

I bought two 52-inch track sections, one with the "shop stop" included, from Amazon - for about $140 for all. They arrived in good shape without delay.

Each 52-inch track came with 3, 16-inch long sections of plastic scale (nice plastic), marked 16-0, 32-16, 48-32 (from left to right). Since I considered that it would be a nuisance to have the scale start over at 48", I ordered the 96-48 (3 sections of 16" each) directly from Incra. These scale sections are what I consider to be a minor shortcoming of this track system, since you must allign (on a 96" track), 5 joints between the mylar scales - and redo it any time you move the zero point. The instructions for zeroing the stop to the saw suggest that you set the stop in a fixed location, push the stop rod up agaist the saw tooth, then slide the scale to zero. That's not practical with the scale divided into 6 sections which have to be alligned at the ends.

So, I leave the scale where it is and just move the stop rod to the saw tooth to zero it. I can't imagine why they would suggest doing it the other way. It occurs to me that I could just replace the steel stop rod with a piece of wooden dowel (each time I change blades or dado stacks) - and then just clamp the stop at zero on the scale, and cut off the end of the dowel to zero the stop. Probably, that's overkill. I'll just use the steel stop rod for now.

I've already discovered that the stop rod floats a little more than 1/4" off the surface of the table, so that if I cut a 1/4" piece of MDF, the stop rod slips over the top of the piece I'm trying to cut. I just line it up by eye and it seems to be easy to get it dead on.

I'll post photos when I take them. I keep forgetting to take a camera to the shop.

Llimitations of the RAS aside, I already very much like this setup. The limitations are that this RAS has a bit of slop in the column so that I have to square it to the fence with the arm of the saw pushed to the right, and remember to push it to the right before each cut. I'm going to try to figure out where the slop is and see if I can tighten it up, but it seems that the arm moves about a 1/16" at the far end, which is a lot more than I would like. Does anybody know where I can tighten this up?

Oh, and I've discovered that Emerson (manufacturer of this saw for Sears) will give me $100 to scrap it and send them the motor - due to some lawsuit or recall or something. I think I'll keep it, though it has no brake and spins a loooong time when switched off.

Next post will be 1 picture longer and 1000 words shorter.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

*1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*










Finally, I've pulled the photos from my camera. I neglected to photograph it as I built it, but here it is in finished form. It gives me 8' of stop range for precisely measured crosscuts. I can use it for through cuts as well as crosscut dados. The extension table top and fence are made of a partial sheet of 18mm (3/4") oak veneer plywood that I've had laying around for 10 years or so. The legs are of ordinary 2×4 stud material. There is no finish on it. The stop rail is two 52" sections of Incra rail.

The saw is mounted on a Ridgid universal tool stand. Dad didn't have a stand for it, and had it sitting on various things over the years.










This photo shows the right end of the fence. To the right of the blade, there is a partial spacer fence the same depth as the INCRA rail. The back of INCRA rail is fastened to the fence and the top of the extension table is fastened to the bottom of the INCRA rail.

The fence (sacrificial) of the RAS is clamped between the (wooden) table and a floating partial table at the back of the main table. This is the original table that came with the saw when my Dad bought it back in 1961. It's not so flat, but my feeling so far is that it is usable.










Under the left front corner of the main table, I've got this little drawlatch which pulls the extension table tight to the main table. Since the back edge of the extension is fastened to the fence, which now extends 8' to the left from the right edge of the main table, I didn't think I needed any further fastening at the back.










The extension table is supported with two inverted "T" legs which are mounted to door hinges so that the table can be folded for ease of storage or transport when removed from the main saw table. The bottom of each T leg has two "T-bolt" inserts which provide for height adjustment of each corner of the extension table.










Here's a view from upstairs.










The left side of the saw.










Another left angle view.










This has almost nothing to do with the RAS, but it's the partially floored upstairs of my shop. When I finish this, I can move a lot of stored craft materials (my wife's yarn, fabrics etc.) upstairs to free up space to really get my shop set up. So, finishing that is top shop priority!


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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I love the old iron. Nice machine. Nice save. I recently refurbed a drill press that appears to be from that series/era.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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Thanks for your comments Tedstor. I'd like to see some photos of that drill press.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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Nice looking RAS!


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## gagewestern (Mar 24, 2009)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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has your saw been painted i just picked up one just like iton CL but in black. also i can't hind any mod #s on mine.looks good!


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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Looks like my 58 model except for color. They're good saws even if there mounted to a Ridgid stand. LOL

Nice upper space in the shop, maybe enough room to have a small office even.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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Gagewestern,

I'm pretty sure mine has not been painted. It's not the sort of thing my Dad would have done. That's the original color.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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Gregn,

I suppose I could paint over the "Ridgid" sign, or maybe it's stuck on there someway where I can take it off. I never thought about it. I'll have to take a look.


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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I'm not sure but I think different years had used different colors much like Shop Smith and other manufactures. Mine is machinery gray. Thats pretty cool that it was your Dads RAS, mine was bought used, although I do have some tools that were my grandfathers and from dear departed friends. Its kinda like they are there in the shop with me.


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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Ocelot, I was just pulling on your chain. Whatever works is all that matters. I do plan on taking mine off the stand and mounting it in a bench type system, due to my new shop is narrower than my last shop even though the sq.footage is almost the same.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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I'm not sure what year it is. I looked the model number up on the Emerson Electric web site. Emerson will giive me $100 to remove the motor and send it to them (scrap the saw to settle some kind of safety lawsuite, apparently). I'll go take a photo of the labels and post them. I'm pretty sure Dad had it before I was born (in '58) and aquired it after he married (in '52).


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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Here's the motor cover.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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Here's the front of the base.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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The most important label on the left side of the base. My photo came out badly. I'll have to shoot it again.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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Gregn,

No prob with chain-pulling, but on the other hand, there's no particular reason I shouldn't pull the "Ridgid" logo off of there if I have a spare moment and it looks easy.

I can see that you could get it closer to the wall with a different stand arrangment. The legs of the stand are slanted for stability, but it really doesn't need that on the back.


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## Gregn (Mar 26, 2010)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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I'm sure someone can tell you from OWWM can tell you the year.
http://vintagemachinery.org/
Yeah Emerson told me the same thing because they didn't have the retro kit for the blade guard, they did send me a manual for mine though.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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Thanks for the link, Gregn, I was not aware of that web site.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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I've just now found the papers for this saw. It was a birthday gift from my Mom to my Dad - November 1, 1961. I've corrected the title to reflect that. Now 52 years old!

Mom paid $199 + tax + finance charges (was financed at $10.50 / month).

I just now ordered 2 motors bearings from Sears, since it has starting making disturbing noises during use.

Yeah, I'm going to keep it going.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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I replaced the motor bearings in this saw yesterday. I had never previously changed bearings, so I was afraid I would mess it up, but it went very smoothly and the saw now runs very quietly. Without a blade on it, it is surprisingly quiet. I had never run the saw without a blade before but tested it that way.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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Craftsman and Ridgid are both Emerson, so I see no reason to remove a logo.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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Hey dhazelton! Yeah, the logo is not near the top of my to-do list. I really need to make a new table top for this saw. The old one, which is the original 50+ year old top, is badly out of flat. I'll not throw it away, but just hang it on the wall as a memorial. I'll redo the side table at the same time.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Ocelot said:


> *1961 Craftsman RAS with added crosscut stop rail*
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Rustoleum has a nice hammered copper spray that I used in a 50s Craftsman (King Seeley I think) drill press that you could use on the stand. If you're going to the trouble with the logo might as well make the collars and cuffs match


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

*I ordered a bandsaw - Grizly G0513X2*

Friday, I finally fired off an order for my bandsaw.

All this wood on the ground inspired me. Can any of you folks who can advice me on how to mill up green stuff on a bandsaw (if that's a good idea)?

I've got a small walnut triee that has a section maybe 10' long that is straight and should fit through the saw. Also some cherry, not so straight, but I haven't really looked at it yet. Branches off of a couple of huge oaks that should fit but from what I've read may be too reactive to use. etc.

-Ocelot


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Ocelot said:


> *I ordered a bandsaw - Grizly G0513X2*
> 
> Friday, I finally fired off an order for my bandsaw.
> 
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i don't know much about this myself ocelot

i am surprised that with all the lumber and mill types we have
that nobody has given any help here yet

there have been some discussion lately 
about new members just taking and not giving back
like asking help as you are
and then just dumping the blog
without thanking anyone for their help

i'm sure you are not of this caliber of person

we have been a friendly and 'family' for a long time now
but recent events soured many
and some just stand out of reach
and only respond from time to time now
waiting to see which way the wind is blowing 
and whether the new members will participate 
or just grab and run

hope you get some help soon
as i too would like to know some of what you are asking about


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I ordered a bandsaw - Grizly G0513X2*
> 
> Friday, I finally fired off an order for my bandsaw.
> 
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patron,

Thanks for your comments. As for the balance of giving and taking, right now, as a person with little experience, I have little to give. Also, unfortunatley, I have little time to sit on the computer to post. It's garden season. I've got a family, church, trees down all over my property, some medical appointments lately, and I'm a baseball fan (and there's a game every day). So, I take a few minutes now and then to get on LJ. I expect that my participation will come in spurts as I have time, but I want to make sure I spend more time in the shop than on the computer. Given my low level of experience, I don't expect my questions are very interesting, but I appreciate any feedback I get.

-Ocelot


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Ocelot said:


> *I ordered a bandsaw - Grizly G0513X2*
> 
> Friday, I finally fired off an order for my bandsaw.
> 
> ...


glad you are hanging in here
just as you 
many are switching to spring
outdoor projects
and will also be hit and miss here too

have a good one
and enjoy


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

*Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*

I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.










So, after reading a bit on-line, I ordered a tenoning jig from Rockler. I think you can get the same jig for $20 less from Grizzly, but I didn't notice that til after I ordered it.

To obtain the maximum range of motion, and allow me to cut at zero (tight agaist the blade) without worrying about cutting into the cast-iron fence, I added a 3/4" plywood face plate to the fence of the jig.

After playing around with the thing a little, I decided that it needed an upgrade, so I ordered a 6-inch digital readout (iGauge) from Grizzly. The same DRO is available from many on-line sources. I had only to get a friend to drill and tap a hole for a #8-32 screw in the cast-iron moving plate (to attach the end of the DRO rail), and hammer one of the brackets supplied with the DRO into the shape I needed to connect the puck of the DRO to the base plate on the tenoning jig, and I had a jig that could position a workpiece within a thousanth of an inch over a 2.2" range of motion.










I can just turn the screw to get any position to the thousanth of an inch.










Then tighten it up to fix that setting.










It tends to move 1 or 2 thousanths when I tighten it up, so I plan ahead and dial it in a bit high.

I've used it to make some saw-kerf box joints out of scrap which I'm quite pleased with.

I've had to fiddle with the alignment of the jig, and I'm going to re-allign my saw as well, but I'm really having fun with the things I can do with this set-up.

One added bonus is that I can use this jig to align my saw. I only need to clamp a peice into the jig which has a protruding post or finger, then dial the jig out to touch that finger against the tooth of the blade on each side to measure (using the DRO) the distance from the slot in the table top.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...












Here's the Rockler tenoning jig with a 3/4" wooden faceplate added and the iGauge digital readout (DRO).


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...


To show what it can do, here I'm trimming the thickness of a scrap of ply.









Dial in the thickness and lock the jig. (The reading drifted by 1/1000 before I shot this photo.)









After clamping the piece and running it by the saw blade.









Checking the result with caliper.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...


Mounting the DRO on the tenoning Jig










Installation of the DRO required drilling and tapping a hole in the moving plate of the tenoning jig for a #8-32 machine screw. This was used to mount (using a bracket supplied with the DRO) one end of the rail of the DRO. I've flipped the rail over so that the puck can be mounted more easily and with the cable coming out the top side.

The puck (slider on the rail) is mounted to a bracket fabricated from one of the supplied brackets simply hammered flat to remove a bend I didn't need. The bracket is mounted to the base plate of the jig where the old pointer was originally mounted.

The tenoning jig, as I've got it set up, has a range of motion of about 2.2 inches. If doing box joints deeper than that, I'll have to flip the stock and make some of the cuts from the other edge. A caliper and a calculator will be required in order to be sure that cutting from two different reference faces will produce the desired results.










Top view clearly shows the now useless inch scale which was stuck on the jig at the factory.

The readout unit can be placed wherever you want, and has magnets on the back so it will stay put.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...


This morning, I checked the alignment of my table saw using the tenoning jig and DRO.










Here's a little do-dad I made to help with the job.










After unplugging the saw, the do-dad was clamped in the jig and carefully dialed up until it touched a marked tooth on the near side of the saw with the blade fully raised. While moving the do-dad with the lead screw, I moved the blade slightly back and forth so that I could hear the do-dad scratch the blade.










Close up.










Here's the readout with the do-dad just touching the blade.










Doing the same thing with the marked tooth rotate around to the far side.










The readout indicates that saw is aligned within 2 thousanths.
Now, there is some slop where the guide bar rides in the slot on the table and other factors which might contribute to inaccuracy, but I'm thinking this is good enough.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...


Very informative post. I just bought a Wood River Tenon jig off CL for $25 and was worried about cutting into its fence. Thank you for solving that problem! I also noticed the tape measure on the jig aws worthless but I'm not sure I'm smart enough to install a DRO like you did. Maybe if I study this blog some more….. Thanks a bunch for posting this.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your comments, gfadvm!

The DRO was $20 + shipping from Grizzly. It completely transforms the tenon jig, in my opinion. Installation was very easy, but I would be glad to give more details of the installation if that would help.










Here's a closeup of a joint I made with it at the corner of a frame made out of 3/4×1 inch rails. Even without glue, the frame is quite rigid and square.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...


That is a perfect joint! I'm envious of your mechanical skills. If you lived closer, I'd pay you to install this on my jig. I may give it a try as it only cost $20. Be prepared for cries for help!!! I did attach the sacrificial board to my fence today. Do you think this DRO would work on my Wood River jig?


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...


Thanks! Without seeing your jig, I can't tell if the DRO would fit. Can you post a photo of it?

Another thing that helped this joint is that I bought a saw blade with a flat tooth geometry so that the kerf is flat on the bottom. The first blade I tried left a non-flat kerf which shows gaps at the end of the joint.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...


OK, I've had a look at the WoodRiver jig on the woodcraft site. Also, somebody reviewed it here on LJ.

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/1733

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2083094/33127/WoodRiver-Tenoning-Jig.aspx

From the photos, it looks only a litte different from the Rocker. I think you'll have to drill and tap 2 holes to mount the DRO. Mine only required one hole because the jig had a little pointer mounted to it that I could remove to use that hole for mounting the sliding puck of the DRO. It looks like the WoodRiver jig has the pointer on the other side of the moving plate and has a scale on the round horizontal bar.

To be sure, it would help if I could see the other side of the WoodRiver jig.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...


Ocelot - The scale is on the round horizontal bar and the little red pointer is mounted right above it on themoving plate. You can see both in the pic you linked. Now, where exactly do I mount the "puck"? Tapping and threading 2 holes shouldn't be a problem. I may have to buy you a plane ticket to Tulsa if I cant figure this out!


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...


Ticket to Tusla. Sounds like a country song.










I'm guessing the other side of your jig looks just like mine.

The base plate extends beyond the sliding plate on the side facing away from you when you are using the jig. That's the place to mount the DRO. One hole (number 1 in photo) goes in the side of sliding plate as far toward the hinge end as you can go, and the other hole goes in the top of the base plate, as far away from the hinge as you can comfortabley go. Number 3 in photo points to it, but can't see it since it's under the bracket. A bracket (in box marked 2) attaches to the hole on the base plate, the puck (what I call it) attaches to that, and the end of the DRO's rail attaches (usiing a bracket that comes with it) to the sliding plate. The rail slide freely through the puck, which reads somehow it's position on the rail.

The tenon jig has only 2 or 2.25" of movement range - because of the limits on the screw and on the slot in the top of the sliding plate, so the 6" DRO is more thay you need, the rail doesn't hurt anything sticking out on the side away from the blade.


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...


The pics made it Much clearer. I think I can do this but I looked at my Grizz catalog and cant find the "DRO". I'm not trying to be aPITA but it looks like I am. Appreciate all your efforts, now if I can just find the DRO.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...


No problem.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/0-6-Digital-Fractional-Horizontal-Vertical-Remote-Scale/T21577

Looks like they upped it to 22.95.

-Ocelot


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Tenoning Jig - with add-on digital readout*
> 
> I had in mind to make a rail and stile sort of thing, with what I think are called box joints in the frame. After I took a whack at using the fence on the table saw to guide some pieces on end to cut the box joint notches, I decided that I really needed a tenoning jig.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I must have been looking with my eyes closed!


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

*Harbor Freight 6-inch Jointer - Model #30289*

Probably 3 or 6 months ago, I picked up a little Jointer at Harbor Freight. I had a 20% off coupon and it was on sale too, so I got it for about 2/3 of list price. I didn't have anywhere to put it so it sat in the box until sometime in December.

Finally, more than 3 years after the shop was built, in early December, I got the attic floor completed, and moved hundreds of boxes of stuff upstairs - so that now I have room to work down below. So, opened the box and set up the jointer. Now, before I began, I considered this to be my "starter" jointer. I just bought it because it was probably the cheapest cast-iron 6-inch jointer with a stand that I could buy. I figured that if it worked at all, it was worth the money and I could use it until I get a real jointer.

Well, I had the good fortune to have a visit from my old (retired) pastor friend, who before he entered the ministry was a tool and die maker. We sat there and dialed that thing in so that both ends of all 3 blades were within 2 thousanths of the same level.

All I can say I can't imagine $200 better spent on a tool. It works quite sweetly. The table is short, but for the things I have jointed - up to 48inches long, it did a fine job. Now, I can't really face joint anything except for narrow stuff, but I already have found this little machine quite useful. If you take the time to dial it in, it serves well. I'll post some photos and talk more about the blade adjustment procedure when I get more time.


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## RibsBrisket4me (Jul 17, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Harbor Freight 6-inch Jointer - Model #30289*
> 
> Probably 3 or 6 months ago, I picked up a little Jointer at Harbor Freight. I had a 20% off coupon and it was on sale too, so I got it for about 2/3 of list price. I didn't have anywhere to put it so it sat in the box until sometime in December.
> 
> ...


It's a great feeling to get a tool at a great price and have it do the job well. Plus you got to hang out w/a buddy. Congrats!


----------



## macatlin1 (May 5, 2010)

Ocelot said:


> *Harbor Freight 6-inch Jointer - Model #30289*
> 
> Probably 3 or 6 months ago, I picked up a little Jointer at Harbor Freight. I had a 20% off coupon and it was on sale too, so I got it for about 2/3 of list price. I didn't have anywhere to put it so it sat in the box until sometime in December.
> 
> ...


Congratulations on your new toy.

Be careful if you move the jointer around. The sheet metal legs are a bit flimsy and will fold over if the jointer is leaned back or forward. I put a couple of plywood panels on each side to connect the front to the back and make it more rigid.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Harbor Freight 6-inch Jointer - Model #30289*
> 
> Probably 3 or 6 months ago, I picked up a little Jointer at Harbor Freight. I had a 20% off coupon and it was on sale too, so I got it for about 2/3 of list price. I didn't have anywhere to put it so it sat in the box until sometime in December.
> 
> ...


@bullethead,

I do enjoy getting good value. Of course, my shop is a *little* unballanced with my 20 inch spiral cutter planer and this little jointer, but that's fine for now.

@macatlin1,

Thanks for the tip. I'll be careful if I move it. It seemed sturdy enough when I was setting it up. I still haven't put the dust chute or belt gaurd on it and may do a little more adjusting when I add those.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

*Harbor Freight 5 Speed Bench Top Wood Lathe - Model #65345*

I picked this little lathe up in early december, again with a 20% off coupon and on sale, so I paid about $155 for it. My wife gave me some turning tools for Christmas (which were on my list and expected). So far I turned a couple of little spindle tests out of pine. It's fun and the lathe seems to work well.

More later.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Ocelot said:


> *Harbor Freight 5 Speed Bench Top Wood Lathe - Model #65345*
> 
> I picked this little lathe up in early december, again with a 20% off coupon and on sale, so I paid about $155 for it. My wife gave me some turning tools for Christmas (which were on my list and expected). So far I turned a couple of little spindle tests out of pine. It's fun and the lathe seems to work well.
> 
> More later.












I assume this is the lather you refer to? Looks good to me! I have the HF full size lathe (the heavy duty one with the cast iron bed and reversable head) and I have been very pleased. You should enjoy yours just fine, and all the cash you saved can be used to buy some new turning tools or a bunch of stock!


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Harbor Freight 5 Speed Bench Top Wood Lathe - Model #65345*
> 
> I picked this little lathe up in early december, again with a 20% off coupon and on sale, so I paid about $155 for it. My wife gave me some turning tools for Christmas (which were on my list and expected). So far I turned a couple of little spindle tests out of pine. It's fun and the lathe seems to work well.
> 
> More later.


Yep. That's the one. It's quite rigid and seems to have enough power for making spindles, which is all I plan to do with it now. 18" is somwhat of a limitation, but most spindles are shorter than that. I view it as a starter lathe. It would be nice if the tool rest was longer so I wouldn't have to stop and move it so often, but other than that, I have no complaints.


----------



## deniseo (Jan 13, 2014)

Ocelot said:


> *Harbor Freight 5 Speed Bench Top Wood Lathe - Model #65345*
> 
> I picked this little lathe up in early december, again with a 20% off coupon and on sale, so I paid about $155 for it. My wife gave me some turning tools for Christmas (which were on my list and expected). So far I turned a couple of little spindle tests out of pine. It's fun and the lathe seems to work well.
> 
> More later.


I have one and I like it as much as the 5 speed Jet I had in the States. My son sent it to me. He bought it for me with a 20% off coupon. Sweet deal.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

*Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*

I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.

A day or two later, I called and told him I wanted to buy a good bit of it if he could give me a price.

So, I've got 1000 bft of lumber - and had no place to store it.

Lumber racks were needed.

Unfortunately, the 5 minutes/month that I have for LJ has elapsed. Got to take the wife to the doc.

More about lumber and racks later.

-Paul


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


Paul, You are more than welcome to store it at my place for free! Wish you lived next door as I have tons of dry storage area.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


Thanks gfadvm!

But, I have a solution in work here so it won't be neccesary to ship it out west there.

I was working on a design for a lumber rack - double sided, cantilever, and even mobile, and had bought the material and cut most of it out, when I saw a great deal on some lumber racks on eBay.

So, I bought the ebay rack for $145 plus $80 worth of gasoline to go get it.

Here it is in my shop.










But I'm still working on my home-built rack. All the materials are cut out. I have almost all the hardware.

Here's a piece of it that I've completed. (Other pieces can be seen leaning on the right side of the steel rack). When I get the entire thing done, I'll post it as a "project". I haven't posted any projects because the LJ guideliines say that it has to be a completed project and I don't have any that I'm willing post yet, but the lumber rack will be one when it's done.










The shop-built rack should have the capacity to store 340 cubic feet (4080 bft) of lumber if tightly packed. Of course, it will never be tightly packed. At 42 lb / cubic foot, that's about 14000 pounds, which is close to the capacity of the 12×1200lb rated castors.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


The main part of my shop-built mobile, double-sided, cantilever lumber rack (MDSCLR  consists of "trees" designed as a sandwich structure. The arms, along with 2×6 spacers are sandwiched between two 2×6s to form a "tree" which slides down into/over a base made of 2 2×12s with spacers blocks between them - on which 2 1200lb rated 6in castors are mounted. Both the tree and the base are assembled with nails, and the upper tree is attached to the base with carriage bolts.










When I first layed one of these out on the floor, I realized that the construction materials were not of uniform thickness. The 2×4s were thinner than the 2×6s, so that the arms would be loose if I assembled it like that. So, I looked over at my newly aquired Griz 20in spiral planer and it just seemed natural that I should plane everything to a uniform 1 3/8 in. thickness. ...

So I did, and it went pretty quickly - so it was a good exercise for the planer, except that I didn't figure on how much chips/dust that would make. As you can see below, the blueberries got mulched as a consequence.










Another consequence I didn't think of when I decided to plane all that pine was that I might gum up my new planer with pine tar. I haven't pulled the covers off to look, but I know it must be on there. Hopefully, it won't cause any problems.

After planing, the sandwich went together much more tightly.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


Here's the "open-face" version, which shows how the arms and spacers go in.










The top of the rack is at the bottom of this photo.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


Ignoring for a moment the nails, the load on each arm will be transfered directly to the spacer on which it rests, and down through the stack of arms and spacers directly to the top edge of one of the 2×12s in the base. It should be a very sturdy arrangement.

The "T" of the base with the tree is another area that needs to be strong to resist the force of uneven loading of the rack (for example if everything is loaded on one side). I don't leave this to the bolts alone. One of the vertical 2×6s is sandwiched between the 2 2×12s of the base, and both sides of the vertical 2×6 are blocked by blocks of 2×12 nailed in place to form a socket. The bolts actually then don't have much load at all, since the verical load rests on the top edge of the 2×12 and the torsional load is resisted by the blocks.










This photo shows the bottom of the base with the vertical tree inserted in the "socket". This was taken before it was nailed. The socket is actually a bit tighter than this. The tree can only be inserted/removed by hammering it. This prevents the slop in the bolt holes from affecting the squareness of the "T".


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


Oh My, What a nice rack you have! Lol.

Looks like it could hold a tank. Much more impressive that my little rack


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


DIYaholic,

Yours looks quite functional. Where did you buy the pipe?

I like your rack. The guy I bought the lumber from had a rack of the same general type as yours. That's the kind I was going to build originally, until I let my imagination run away.

My shop has a lot of windows, and as a consequence, not very much wall space. I wanted a free-standing rack.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


The pipe is 1/2" black pipe available in any hardware/home improvement store. I however, got all the pipe for FREE from my old job! The 4" x 4" posts were also FREE from the same source as the pipe! I only had to pay for a some hardware and support brackets.

I know what you mean by letting your "imagination run away". I always get paralized during the design phase of any project. Trying to anticipate and design for ANY & ALL contingencies, leaves mind spinning sometimes!!!


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


The design phase is what I enjoy the most - except, of course, for seeing what you imagined in your mind become reality! I'm not one for building things from plans. There's nothing wrong with that, and I might learn a lot by doing that, but it's not the way I like to do it.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


That is a really solid looking rack that you are building that should serve well forever and look nice while it's doing it. You have blueberries? I may come visit as I LOVE BLUEBERRIES. I eat frozen blueberries and heavy cream every night before I go to bed. My best friend gives me 25 gallons every year for my birthday. They grow a lot of the really big one where he lives in Arkansas.


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## HamS (Nov 10, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


http://lumberjocks.com/projects/59883
I posted the above in Stumpy's Tubafore contest. This is a very flexible way to store lumber. I like the cantilever approach you used, but it is always a problem to keep the cantilever rack balance and not fall over.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


@gfadvm,

25 *gallons* of blueberries! Wow! Now, that's a *best* friend!


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


Yep, The very best!


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *Lumber Racks (and some lumber)*
> 
> I was eating dinner with my old retired pastor back a few weeks (I think it was in December), when he mentioned that he was interested in selling the rough-cut lumber that he has collected for many years. He said he already had a taker on the walnut, but he had almost 2000 bft of air-dried cherry, some more than 30 years old, that he was interested in selling. Now this fine man has reached 80, and he's realized that he's not going to use all the bounty he has saved up.
> 
> ...


Hi. I thought I would report that I'm still alive, and did finish that lumber rack. I'll have to post photos of it in use when I get them sorted out.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

*Things you can do with a tiny Drill Press - by making a few jigs*

It seems that every time I use my drill-press I have to make a jig. I have often thought I need a bigger, better one, but I haven't yet figured out exactly what the advantage is. What do you think? Here's the kind of things I do.

*Drilling holes centered on cross-cut dados.*




























*Drilling doweled lapjoint frames at an odd angle.*


























*Drilling the ends of struts at an odd angle.*

Notice that I had to rotate the head of the drill-press relative to the base so that the item I was drilling would clear.










The 32-thread machine screw is an improvised stop.














































*Resulting Assemblies*


















*Drilling Really Big things on the floor*


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## cabmaker (Sep 16, 2010)

Ocelot said:


> *Things you can do with a tiny Drill Press - by making a few jigs*
> 
> It seems that every time I use my drill-press I have to make a jig. I have often thought I need a bigger, better one, but I haven't yet figured out exactly what the advantage is. What do you think? Here's the kind of things I do.
> 
> ...


There are many advantages of a large drill press but what you've demonstrated here is what I like to see !

You are using what you have and pushing the envelope with it. Showing it who's boss. Love it!

Enjoy the journey! JB


----------



## Porcupine (Mar 4, 2013)

Ocelot said:


> *Things you can do with a tiny Drill Press - by making a few jigs*
> 
> It seems that every time I use my drill-press I have to make a jig. I have often thought I need a bigger, better one, but I haven't yet figured out exactly what the advantage is. What do you think? Here's the kind of things I do.
> 
> ...


In my mind, it's a waste of money getting an upgrade when you can be as creative with what you have as you are. Great job!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Ocelot said:


> *Things you can do with a tiny Drill Press - by making a few jigs*
> 
> It seems that every time I use my drill-press I have to make a jig. I have often thought I need a bigger, better one, but I haven't yet figured out exactly what the advantage is. What do you think? Here's the kind of things I do.
> 
> ...


I had a small drill press like yours for many years and found it very useful. I did get a large floor model later, but my son now has the small one and it's still a great machine. I can't claim to have used it in so many creative ways as you have demonstrated here. Well done and I agree with what cabmaker said.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

*I got bit by the handplane bug*

I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.

Hey, I've got a 20 inch spiral head planer and a little 6-inch (power) jointer. I thought I didn't need any of that grampa's old iron.

But, one day, something snapped.

Two weeks later, here's where I am. The photos here are straight from ebay. I've given them all a basic cleaning since them, but have taken no new photos (no 3 is not here yet). My goal was to get usable tools, not become a collector. All of them have cleaned up nicely and look to be perfectly usable. All have throat adjustment.

Type identifications are my best understanding from reading online version of type study. I may change my guess on some of these after further study.

I'm out $270, including shipping for the entire set, number 3, 4, 5 1/4, 5, 6, 7, plus a couple extra number 5s.
[edit, now $335, since I bought another no 7, sigh]

After a little more cleaning, the next task is sharpening. Maybe eventually, I'll refinish some of the wood or paint the castings, but not any time soon.

I think I'm about done now. Every time a box appears on the porch, my wife knows I'm going to disappear for awhile to clean up the new toy. She's great - very tolerant, but 7 months pregnant with twins and kinda wants me to do some other things right now. LOL.

But… I don't have a 4 1/2 nor a 5 1/2….

So what do you think? How did I do?

-Paul (EvapoRust is my friend)

No 3C, type 18. (Thought it was a type 16, but diagonal knerling on adjuster makes it a type 18)


















No 4, type 16.


















No 5 1/4, type 16 - hole in heel. Name scribed all over it, but nice after cleanup.


















No 5C, type 11 - broken casting, wrong tote, but WORKS GREAT! (Was thrown in free with another plane)



















No 5, type 16. Pretty nice. (Thought it was type 18, but straight knerling on the adjuster make it a 16).


















No 5, type 12. Lots of pitting on iron and chipbreaker. Horn of rosewood tote broken. Crack in knob. Ignore the other plane in the first photo. It's a Fulton that came as a two-fer on that deal. I don't count it.



















No 6C, type 15 - very nice rosewood! Best wood of planes that I have recieved. Insignificant chip in the trailing edge of the mouth. Also front edge of frog is chipped.


















No 7C, type 18, lousy painted handles but solid. Except for some loss of japaning, plane itself is nearly perfect after derust. (I have sanded the beech wood and stained since arrival).


----------



## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Welcome to the restorer's club.
Be careful, rust hunting can be addictive.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


a nice looking set.


----------



## johnlowell (Dec 22, 2012)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a real project, but the outcome will be nice. cheers!


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...





















I bought another 7C today (which I didn't need). Addiction is a bad thing. The wife told me several times to go ahead and buy it, so I did. $74 including shipping.

Also, I sanded the tote and knob on my first 7C.

I'm planning to stain them dark and go from there - shooting for semi-gloss, which I prefer to the factory look.

-Paul


----------



## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Hell Paul, if you don't love your wife I love her for you. My wife hates tools.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Oh, I love her, for sure.

Now about … hmmm. some minutes ago she asked "are you coming to bed soon", and I replied "yes".

So, goodnight!

-Paul


----------



## whitebeast88 (May 27, 2012)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


great looking collection you've got going!!!


----------



## j1212t (Dec 7, 2013)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


That's how it's done, come and join the dark side!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Good stuff, Paul, congrats!


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


My "grade B" 12×18x3" granite surface plate has finally been shipped. I got it for $53 with free shipping from Amazon. (They've raised the price to $97 since I ordered mine.)

So, sometime this week, I should have a flat surface to sharpen irons on. Oh, I also ordered a honing guide, not the fancy one, just the basic. We'll see.

I plan to build a simple little bench/stand for the surface plate.

By the way, I notice that a "Grade A" surface plate at that size (12×18x3") can be had for $95 delivered, so I would not order the "grade b" since it actually costs more now. It astonishes me that something so precisely made (accurate to about 5 100-thousanths of an inch over it's entire surface) can be had for a 100 bucks. I imagine that 100 years ago, Ty Cobb's annual salary ($12000) could not have bought such a thing, and today, a guy could buy it with one day's wages flipping burgers.

-Paul


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


I'm a basic honing guide lover, too. Doubt seriously it'll be replaced with anything fancier, and I'll only go free-hand on oil stones (used occasionally, they're in the toolchest for touch-ups).

Granite plate for scary sharp, or ? I use DMTs so the surface doesn't matter; the plate is permanently flat and as true as I need it to be.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


If that was a question…

Yes, The granite surface plate is for scary sharp.

I also plan to build the belt-sander conversion from the HF 4×36 sander - but not yet. I'll want it to sharpen lathe tools. I figure I can do the initial grinding of plane irons on that also. But that will be months in the future. We're expecting twins, and I've got to get focused on other things.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Belt sander approach is a good one, many do the same that I've read. Bandit gets great results, specifically. And congrats on the twins!


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Well, I came home today and found a very heavy wooden crate on my porch, opened it up expecting to find my granite surface plate, but instead found Grizzly Model T10050 Right Angle Iron Bender. So, I looked that thing up and found that it's about $305 delivered. Hmmm. I don't need it. I want my surface plate. But maybe I can do some kind of deal and come out ahead. I'll ask Amazon if I can keep it. Tomorrow, I should see our machinist at lunch and ask him if he needs one of those. It can bend a 1/4" thick 4" wide piece of steel to a 90 degree corner.

It's 97 pounds (45kg), so maybe they won't want to pay the return shipping.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Please make me stop! (looking at planes on ebay)


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


looking is ok.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


ah, but looking takes time - lots of time that I need to be doing other things…. and leads to buying tooo.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


I'd like to help but.......


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


The granite surface plate arrived yesterday. Pretty much OK. I have to build a quick little bench/stand for it with space also for the belt sander based sharpening machine. I've been figuring on that in my mind. "quick" means I'll use tube-a-fors and OSB and the staple gun and bolts.

-Paul


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...












Oops! I bought another No 5, type 11. This time, even with a broken tote! I just liked the rest of the plane that much.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Looking closely at the planes that I have bought recently, I've noticed that the post-war planes (at least) seem to lack the frog allignment features of the earlier planes. I just looked at 3 of them last night - 2 no 7's (type 18-19) and one no 3 (type 18).

The notch in the bottom of the frog which straddles the rib in base is not machined to fit tighly there as it was in the earlier planes. The throat adjustment screw passing through the fork on the back of the frog constrains the back of the frog, but the front of the frog is somewhat free to move from side to side, and can get out of square with the edge of the mouth. I'll look at the rest of my planes when I get a chance.

Is this something everybody already knew?

-Paul


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


The type 11, no 5 arrived. It is in amazing condition - looks like it has had very little use over the past 100 years. I wonder how the tote got broke. The tote seems to be glued with chewing gum or something like that. I'm going to see if I can pull it apart and do a better job. The iron is very clean - the best iron of any plane I've yet bought. There's no rust on the plane at all. The adjuster lever tip (which goes through the slot in the chipbreaker) seems to have no wear at all.

Some parts of the plane look as if they were blued a long time ago. I read that the back of the chipbreakers used to be blued, but I don't know…

I bid on 4 more planes. <sigh> I don't think I'll "win" most of those auctions, but probably a couple.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Here's the front of the frog where it mates with the rib of the reciever. 
They quit making this tight fit in the later planes.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Just to keep everything on this blog, here's some quotes from HPOYD thread.



> I ve been blogging my recent handplane … er… addiction on my own thread, but … this is from the iron on my most recent Bailey no 5, type 11.
> 
> Most of my planes arrived with very rusty irons, but this one is nearly perfect.
> 
> ...





> "They quit making this tight fit in the later planes."
> 
> Interesting, because frog play is one of my beefs with baileys I ve used.
> 
> - BigRedKnothead





> I don t know when they changed it. The type studies I ve seen online don t mention it.
> 
> I"ve noticed that the type 18s and 19s I have are not tight there at all.
> I don t have a type 13 or 14.
> ...





> Here s the entire plane. Bailey No 5, type 11.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> So, at lunch time I was home and took a few photos.
> For both of these, the frog and receiver seem pretty tight at the front, although the earlier one is tighter. The triangular "fins" on the frog that are machined to fit the rib are deeper on the No 5 type 12 than on the No 6 type 14-15.
> 
> A quick look at the type 16, 18 and 19 planes that I have (sorry no photos yet) shows a total lack of these "fins".
> ...





> I took a look - and made photos of 3 of my type 16, 18, 19 planes.
> 
> The front of the frog is definitely less controlled on those. I don t know if mine are typical, but I suspect that they are.
> 
> ...





> Here s some photos of the Bailey type 19 frog receiver mating on one of my No 7 s.
> 
> You can see that the front of the frog is able to rotate from side to side to a disappointing extent.
> 
> ...





> Here s some similar photos of a No 4, type 16. The frog s freedom to skew seems about the same as the type 19.
> 
> Whole plane.
> 
> ...


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Another thing I've been wondering about is the grind angle commonly used on the irons of these planes.

I can't see any reason for as tight an angle as 25 degrees, or even 30 degrees. The bevel is behind the action. The chip rides up over the flat side of the iron until it hits the chipbreaker and rides up over that. Except for the very edge, the bevel is just riding along through air. Why not bevel it to near the 45 degree angle of the frog?

Why not 42 degrees rather than 25? That would make the edge stiffer, less likely to deflect and dig in - especially at the corners. It would also enable the trailing edge of the iron to be better supported directly by the lip of the plane sole rather than only by the frog. I intend to try it!

-Paul


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


I've added up the numbers and it looks like I've spent approx. $450 on handplanes in the last two months.

I've really got to stay off of ebay!

I started 2014 with $50/mo allocated in the household budget to woodworking stuff. I had spent a lot over the past few years and produced very little finished woodworking, so I figured $600 for the year would be a good restriction. Now in the past two months, on handplanes alone, I've just spent 9 month's budget!

I think I need to sell one set (No 4,5,7) of planes. Hopefully for at least $150.

My latest aquisitions :

I've been wanting a No 4, type 11, and kept being outbid by folks who were willing to pay more.

At last I bought this one for $16, including shipping.



















I have a spare iron and chipbreaker, and the wood off of a Fulton, but I bought this type 13,14,15 levercap since I don't like the Fulton's levercap.










After derusting, the sole is quite pitted but usable.

I also bought another No 5 (I'm a sucker for a cheap old No 5).
This looks to be a type 14 Sweetheart with OK wood. It too is badly pitted, but I have hopes for it. I think I might swap levercaps with the frankenplane above, since that levercap is very nice and is the right type for this plane. This might turn out to be my best No 5.



















I'm going to stop now. Really. Well… I am in the lead on a couple of auctions, but they are several days out and probably a higher bidder will take me off the hook. <sigh>

-Paul


----------



## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Paul, that's a nice collection of hand planes.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


I received the most recent plane pictured above today at lunch time.

It's actually better than the photos. The wood is good (for me). No cracks and looks like rosewood.

The rust is shallow mostly. The screw connecting the iron and chipbreaker was missing and it looks like somebody tried planing with the chipbreaker - as the iron was floating high above the action. So, I need to clean up the edge of the chipbreaker - and regrind the iron as well.

Strange thing about this one - is that it doesn't match the type studies that I have read online.

While it has the single 1910 patent date cast into the base and the raised ring to receive the knob, it does *not* have "Made in USA" cast behind the knob - or anywhere on the base plate. So, it's like a type 13.5 or something.

-Paul


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


After 1st cleaning, here is the Bailey No 5, type 14 Sweetheart.









Unfortunately, some pitting on the sole. Not pretty, but won't affect usage. There is more pitting on the cheeks, not shown here.










It's on the right here, with a type 11, and type 12.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Here's the No 4, type 11, I bought for $16, including shipping a couple weeks ago. It came iwth no iron, chipbreaker, lever cap, knob nor tote. Just a base casting and frog.



















I have up til now resisted the urge to flatten / lap / sand the sole of planes, but this one needed it. Since I don't plan to use it on it's side, I'm just working the sole right now. I may do the cheeks later, but this sanding takes hours and hours!
After a bath in EvapoRust and a little work with 50 and 80 grit, this was the ugly state.









After running through the grits to 1200, I'm done.









I'm working on the wood - have taken the knob and tote from a Fulton branded plane, sanded the red laquer off and refinished with "dark walnut" danish oil. It still looks redish. I'm not quite satisfied with the finish, and have a little more work to do adjusting the fit, but it looks sorta like this.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


You could make some new ones, http://www.timetestedtools.com/making-a-bench-plane-tote.html


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the link, Don. I've thought about making totes and may make one for one of my No 5's, but I had this Fulton wood and figured it was solid and pretty close to what I need, so I used it. I do need to adjust the angle of the tote by about 2 degrees. It willl take about a 16th off bottom at the front end of it, sloping toward taking nothing off at the heel. I haven't figured out how I'm going to do that since it's hard to clamp but I'll figure it out.

-Paul


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


Here's a closer look at the sole at the toe.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


On Sunday afternoon and yesterday (Monday) evening, I finally got around to grinding and honing a couple of irons. Since I'm using sandpaper on a granite surface plate for both grinding and honing, for me, there's no difference.

I selected two irons to begin with. One had been previously ground at 16 degrees and the other at 60 degrees! The 60 degree one obviously could not have planed at all on a 45 degree frog.

Most of the time is spent in grinding on 80 grit to re-shape to bevel and square the edge. This is a tedious process, which I hope to do in future on a belt sander.

I found the process satisfying, none the less, and am eager to finish the 2nd one. The first one has been tested and is OK, though I suspect I haven't done a super job of it.

I had to spend a hour Sunday with a calculator and paper and pencil figuring out the equation of the offset distance on my honing guide as a function of the bevel angle. I made a little table with several angles ranging from 16 degrees to 43 degrees. The iron I'm working now I'm shooting for 37.5 degrees, rather than the standard 30.

-Paul


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


I have noticed that it's somewhat difficult to grind the edge square using the basic honing guide. I've figured out that I need to keep much more pressure on the wheel than on the edge of the iron - so that the squareness of the 1/2 wide wheel can control the angle rather than the 2" wide edge of the iron. Logically, I would have to have more than 4 times as much down force on the wheel to overcome the leverage of the wider blade.

Another note: Somebody on LJ recommended hairspray as the best temporary adhesive for sandpaper on the surface plate. I've tried it. It doesn't work so well for me. I'm going to get a can of the propper spray adhesive before I do much more of this.

-Paul


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


I've finally gotten some irons sharpened. Here's one of my Bailey No 7's, freshly sharped by "shary sharp" to 1200 grit. This is a 36.25 degree bevel replacing partly an 18.5 degree bevel. I didn't grind the old bevel completely away, since that would take a long time with sandpaper and use a lot of steel.

In the photo below taken with inexpensive USB microscope, the top section is the old shallow bevel and the lower section is the new 36.25 degree bevel.

Next time I take photos with that device, I'm going to put a scale in the picture.










I'm very satisfied with the shavings I'm getting. This is eastern red cedar.


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


I worked up another plane iron over the past 2 days - finished last night. This is my 4th iron sharpened.

It was a Bailey No 3, type 18 (I think). The iron had apparently been ground by a wide, small radius wheel when I recieved it. The center was ground deeper than the edges, as if the wheel it was ground on was a bit rounded at the sides. The bevel was 18.5 degrees.

I ground it on 80 grit sandpaper at 37 degrees, and honed up to 1200 grit. I had just yesterday remembered that I have a backpack baby/toddler carrier, so I loaded my 2.5 year old in it and wore him to the shop. That worked really well, as it allowed him to see what I was doing, and kept him out of mischief.

Plane now cuts pretty well, but I'm not done. I didn't work the chipbreaker enough - and chips still get under the leading edge of it. Also, this particular plane (which I picked up on Ebay for $23.65 including shpping) is a little bit off, so that it doesn't adjust well. I've got some ideas on what to do about that. Still, I'm pleased with the results so far.

No photos, but I did make some nice shavings.

-Paul


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...





















Yikes! The addiction!

I popped on a buy-it-now : $145 incl shiipping for a Bailey No 8C (type 11 or 12) and a No 7 smooth, type 14 or 15. The wood looks solid but they are both super ugly - orange paint on the No 7's wood. Both have holes drilled in both toe and heel.

Did I buy 'em from one of you LJ's? I don't think so, since the seller seems not to be a plane man.

I wanted a No 8 and I wanted a Sweetheart No 7… but I have 2 No 7's already and one of them is tuned up pretty nicely. <sigh>

One side of me sees my sickness, another side is looking back at ebay for a 4 1/2 and a 5 1/2 and off into the 
rabbits and etc.

How can I be asking for help (Help!) and smiling at the same time?

I just tell myself. "When I *need* some more planes, I know where to get them. It can certainly wait until next year or the year after next." But then, I'm back looking at ebay again. <sigh>

-Paul


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


I forgot to mention that I've continued to sharpen plane irons - have about 6 done now, I think. Getting better at it, but I'm considering this "phase 1" of the sharpening process. For phase 2, I'll use finer grits and a different approach.

I'm shooting for a non-standard 37 degree bevel. For now, just a single bevel up to 1200 grit paper. I don't see that you save a lot of time by using micro-bevels - since it doesn't seem to take very long on the higher grits anyway. But I've got room to go to 42 degrees (heresy!) if I want to add micro-bevels.

I've been testing on some cherry as well as the cedar - and trying to learn how to plane at the same time.

The cherry piece I'm testing on has a big knot on one end which is a good test. The cedar has a knot and a grain reversal. I've got some pecan that I want to test on also - much harder than the cherry.

-Paul


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


The pair of No 7 and 8 arrived Friday.

I've been soaking in Evaporust and cleaning them up a little over the weekend.

Not too bad. Not too good either.

Both had bent irons. One chipbreaker was bent too. The No 8 (type 11) has some bad pitting on one cheek at the tail. The No 7 (type 13) has a cracked knob. One of them seems to have a crack in the lever part of the levercap. The No 7, may have a crack in the sole, or it may only be a scratch.

I've got them back together after initial cleanup and minor straightening. I'll post some photos soon.

-Paul


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


It's been a few months. This is a plane I did last week - posted on the "Restoration" thread, but nobody thought it was worthy of comment. (sniff, sniff)



> Here s another little Bailey #4 that arrived on Monday from ebay ($25.23 with shipping).
> 
> It s not really finiished, since I haven t worked the iron and chipbreaker yet and maybe I m going to do a little more work on the sole, but I couldn t resist making my first post on this thread with an incomplete refurb after I finished the wood on this one.
> 
> ...


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...


its definitely worth a comment, but sometime life interferes.

Plus, its missing the money shot


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Ocelot said:


> *I got bit by the handplane bug*
> 
> I've been reading all you guys extolling the virtues of old Stanley Bailey planes for awhile now.
> 
> ...





> Plus, its missing the money shot
> 
> - Don W


OK. I admit, I didn't sharpen it yet. I could have slapped another iron on it and made some shavings.

Thanks for stopping by!

You've done hundreds (thousands?) of these. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

This only the 3rd one that I've refinished the wood. The other two were (apparently) beech, so it was a real pleasure to sand off the old finish and find rosewood underneath.

-Paul


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