# Contractor Table Saw Dust Collection



## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

Anyone out there has any suggestion for dust collection for a contractor style table saw?
I recently have purchased a used TS and is in the process of getting it tuned. It will sit in my garage. I figured controlling the dust will be easier on me, health wise and will also reduce my clean up effort too. 
Dust just goes everywhere.

Just like to see what everyone else is doing. Hopefully there are some good tips out there.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

One, pretty effective, method would be to build a cabinet to replace the legs, and have a dust collection chamber in the cabinet. The chamber can easily be connected to a DC system thru a blast gate.

A second option would be one of the aftermarket bags that can be attached inside the legs. No DC, but it at least contains the sawdust.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Something like this from Eric_S' blog is fairly simple:









You could also block off the back like a member of Woodnet did:


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

SawKerf, I have tried the bag method on my previous TS. It was OK to collect the big stuff but the fine dust get everywhere.
The cabinet approach, ???? I have to think about that.

Scott, Thanks for the pictures.
The intermediate mounting table with chute looks good.
I would think the chut (the box part) will need an opening to clear up jams every once in awhile.
I was toying with the idea closing out the rear too. How do you still allow the blade to tilt?

How critical is it to have all the opening sealed? There are still openings on the front where the tilt gause and height adjust srews are.


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## taoist (Jul 31, 2011)

I have a Delta contractors saw and have a dust collector hooked up to it. The saw came with a sloped pan on the bottom of the saw with a 4" hook up. It works fairly well. I tried to block off the back of the saw (motor/belt area) but when it is blocked off a lot of sawdust comes up on top of the table. I just use it the way it came so it's not perfect but a lot better than the bag on the bottom or just letting it fall. It's my opinion that the only truly complete dust collection has to have below and above the table dust collection.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

This is what the underside of my old '50's Craftsman looks like, and it works pretty well, but I need to add some to the top, at the blade, one o these days.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Get the shroud that will fit the bottom, and don't completely black the rear. It cut WAY down on the air flow. Mine is partially blocked with a removeable panel. Take it off when tilting blade. I'm using the HF DC with good results except for above-the-table collection.
Bill


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## Tom148 (Mar 14, 2012)

Sears made a dust kit 133299510. Some of the parts are still available but maybe not all. The re may be a replacement part # but I know the exploded view is available online at searsparts.com. I have this kit on my 113….Craftsman saw and it works ver well. I think you could easily replicate it from some Luna or plastic sheet, some brads nd some glue. You can get a vacuum port at any supply store.

Good luck!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Actually, mine has one o those, maybe 12×12 or so flat plastic dust collection pieces with a 4" hole in it. It fit perfectly, and the 1lb coffee can was just an extention because the port wasn't long enough, and I couldn't get the hose to stay on. I also have a cardboard piece with cut-outs for the belt, motor, etc that I move when I tilt the blade. It's jury-rigged, but, hey, it works.. lol Dust needs to be in a collector, not our lungs


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

You'd need to either remove the back panel, or build one with a slot for the motor to tilt.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

Building a box does work fairly well. It is also important to seal off most of the back of the contractors saw. The side gaps provide enough air flow. Also need to block off the front where the crank comes out.

Here's a link from my cabinet I built for my SawStop that shows blocking off the back of the cabinet. The pieces need to be removable for when you miter the blade. http://lumberjocks.com/comments/850983








I found it important to keep the dust box under the saw as small as possible. A sloping board improved things immensely.








Dust collection box

If you want to take this route, my blog has a lot of details in doing this for a SawStop. I'm sure other contractors saw are pretty similar to do this with:
SawStop Cabinet Blog

That refrigerator magnet material (can be obtained from a sign shop) can be used to seal off the front of the saw.


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

I have the exact same TS and have the factory adaptor kit mentioned by Tom. It has a 2.5" hook up for a shop vac.

I recently modified it for hooking up a 4" line with no reducer and it is working well.

As mentioned, above the blade it gets messy, so I use the factory blade guard most of the time.

IMO these are pretty darn good table saws and can be dialed in quite well. There is an alignment aide that you can mount on the trunions that gets very good reviews. I don't have it,but wish I did, as adjusting the trunnions to get the blade parallel to the slot can be quite the chore if you have to tap it into position. You'll get it just right, only to have it shift when you tighten up the bolts.

I have the exact same fence as well and really like it….as it has no discernable flex when adjusted correctly and locked down…..

Enjoy your new saw!


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## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

this is the link for the Pals

Here's a couple snaps of the modified factory DC adaptor…

it has a 2.5" hookup on the back side (which I plugged)










and a removeable clean out door on the front side, to which I attached a 4" hook up.


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

Thanks for the suggestions.
I will give it shot. the drop down box concept appeals to me.
I will add a back plate to cover the rear openings.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

I have been making these in several different sizes for Contractor's table saws.


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

weren't those sold by a major retailer for a while, like penn state industries or mlcs WW?


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

When I had that saw, I just put a box under it. If you keep a sharp blade on it, there wont be much dust at all, just the chips you get on the top, but no DC will get that.

This is a contractors saw which was meant to be used either outside or at a job site where you don't need DC. 
You'd have to rebuild the entire saw to effectively use DC, you have huge gaping holes all over the saw body, not to mention the motor trunion, such as it is, and belt protruding from the back.

I'd just keep a shop vac handy and clean up afterward.


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I just keep a 5 gallon bucket under mine…


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

I've been using a trash bag attached to the underside with 1" spring clamps.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

*Toolie*, PSI was selling them until we had a disagreement. *Russell*, you think what you want, I've been a woodworker for about 30 years, I know what I need, and I know what works, including the back of the saw. Personally I don't know why anyone would want to spoil it for others that don't need or can't afford a Cabinet table saw. I like my American made Delta Contractor's table saw, and I'm proud to own it.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

I have a C'man 113.298030 TS. I was able to friction fit a HF DC shroud onto the base of the TS, hooked up to a HF 2HP DC. I have sealed the small openings within the base, but not the rear or front of the saw. Some dust still collects inside the cabinet, but overall it is quite effective. Next is to close off the back and front, then modify the blade guard to accept a DC fitting, for table top collection.

4" connection to DC hose:









Shroud is friction fit & removes fairly easily:









Sealing up the insides with foil tape:


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

*DIY* ( Randy ) in my opinion those hoods are obsolete and inefficient.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

SawSucker,
They can't be obsolete and ineffective, as they are still being manufactered & sold! Lol. Are there better, more expensive alternatives, sure. However, this IS working for me.


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## stonedlion (Jan 12, 2011)

My Ridgid came with a factory shroud similar to what Randy has. Between a good shop vac and a ZCI, I get very little dust in the air.

I know I have seen aftermarket shrouds for sale, but cannot remember where. I thought it might be Rockler, but could not find them on the web site.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

I guess that I need to stay in the shop and keep my ideas to myself. It's not worth the aggrevation.


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## rodaddy2 (Dec 22, 2012)

I'm a brand new member and woodworker wannabe. I will retire Dec. 31 after working for 50 years-none of that in woodworking. This site looked like a good place to ask for some expert information. I inherited a "Sears & Roebuck" 10-inch bench saw model 62618 or 113298032 (both model numbers are on the tag. Serial code is 89249P0152. I has a link belt not rubber. It was still being used when my uncle died more than 20 years ago but his wife just let it sit in his workshop until she died. I want to start out with a new table saw rather than a vintage one. Can anyone tell me what year model it is and how much it might be worth to someone interested in restoring solid old equipment? Thanks, rodaddy2


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

SawSucker,
That is the great thing about LJs, a wide assortment of talent and opinions freely expressed and exchanged, for the benefit of others. I'm sorry you feel aggrevated. I was just SHARING my experience.

rodaddy2,
Welcome to LJs!
The best way to get more responses to your query, would be to start a seperate thread/discussion. With that said, you may want to try www.vintagemachinery.org perhaps www.owwm.net.


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## GT350 (Dec 22, 2012)

I built a base for my craftsman saw. The part that covers the motor is also a nice out feed table. The table is a nice solid fit and is easy to remove so I can easily remove and install the blade guard. The 4" dust collector hose draws from under the motor stopping anything from building up around the motor. The bin under the saw just pulls out to dump it. This works very well at collecting the sawdust, I get a little on the top of the saw, mostly large particles. I'm working from my iPad and not sure how to rotate the photo's, I'll have to work on that.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

GT350, to me it looks like you have alot of dust in the cabinet and your subjecting your motor to alot of dust by running dust by it. Outfeed tables are nice to have, but in this situation I think that your paying a price for it.


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

SawS is right.
The motor on the 113 is an air cooled motor.
One of the things I did went I got my TS is to blow air into it and gentely scrap the wood dust off of it. Yes, there were a lot of dust in mine. Accumulation of wood dust will prevent the motor to remove heat properly. If fact, I recommend this to be a fairly regular maintenace task (6-12 months depending on usage). This will help legthen the life of the motor.

GT, I do like your setup. Build my own base with build in dust collection consideration is attractive. I recommend you to fire up that air compressor and blow some air in that motor once in awhile. I think you will be fine then.


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## GT350 (Dec 22, 2012)

Actually, mine is not an air cooled motor. By that I mean that there are no openings in the motor for sawdust to enter it so I have never had a problem with dust in the motor. My 4" dust collector opening is right beneath the motor so there is plenty of air moving past the motor to keep it cool and the dust from building up around it.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

I would bet that there is dust getting in the motor somewhere, especially in the capacitor cover. You'd be surprised where fine dust can get into things. The setup that I designed works the opposite of yours, air comes in from the back of the saw cabinet, preventing the fine dust from escaping out the back. For the heavier chips I designed and built a shroud for the back side of the blade that tilts with the blade. I also use a removeable outfeed table, the hardware was made by Delta for their saws, all I had to do was build the top for it.


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## GT350 (Dec 22, 2012)

Looks like a nice clean setup.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

I generally do not direct people to someone elses video who is trying to take credit for one of my designs, but the less then respectful guy shows how well my dust hood for under the saw works. Table Saw Dust Hood


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## Alan72 (Oct 31, 2012)

I just sold my contractor saw, I had the same set up as DYI did. It work ok, it seemed that saw dust would collect at the side and I would have to clean it out with a shop vac, it was a PIA with my outfeed table. Sawsucker the ones you build seem more efficient to collect dust. If I still owned my saw I would've ordered one.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

Thankyou Alan, I appreciate that.


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## dakremer (Dec 8, 2009)

I'm pretty sure Alan72 and SawSucker are the same guy….

Sawsucker is just trying to sell his things


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

Dak, you'd be wrong. I don't have a clue who Alan72 is, but I sure appreciate his support.


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## DKV (Jul 18, 2011)

SawSucker, wow you're busy tonight. Look at my avatar. I forgive you a third time.


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## mickeyt (Jan 20, 2013)

Hey Sawsucker, can you pm me or me you, (Not sure how to pm yet being new) I might be interested in one of your collectors. I don't know if this is the proper way to ask this, but I guess if I am breaking the rules someone will let me know. Also I don't understand how the metal plate works are is attached can you explane more.


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## SamuraiSaw (Jan 8, 2013)

Dust collection for a contractor saw will be marginal at best. The contraption Chuckie devised is nothing more than a variation of a number of inexpensive designs available. Spend a little time at your local Home Depot, Menards, or Lowes and you can make the same thing for a few bucks. The concept is simple. Direct the sawdust created by the blade towards a suction device. I did the same thing to several saws over the years. It is easy and cheap.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

Sam, once again, you don't have a clue. It's obvious that your a cabinet saw pusher. And frankly I'm really tired of your stalking and harassment, whatever your problem may be.


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## DKV (Jul 18, 2011)

Sam, did Saw screw you over at one time? You have a real hard thing going on here…


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*rodaddy2*, the model number on my Craftsman 10" saw is 113.29943 which I bought in 1972 for $250 with the stand. It was a good saw for its time and you probably can't get one that decent for that price today!

It has been a good saw and the only part that I replaced was the starter capacitor about 20 years ago.

What is that saw worth today? A lot depends on what shape its in!


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## Cortland (Aug 24, 2009)

I snagged the exact same saw off of Craigslist a couple of years ago. The setup I made is about 80% efficient. These contractor saws are leaky but you can do pretty well if you work at it.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*Cortland* what happens when you tilt the blade?

Are those guards just help in place with magnets?


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## Dirte (Feb 7, 2011)

Check mine out… 
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/44175


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## lj61673 (Oct 31, 2011)

Collecting the dust after it settles and collecting it as it happens are two different things. Fact is that the best contractor saw collection will fall short of the best cabinet saw collection. And no, I am not a cabinet saw "pusher". 
To do it properly you must collect from the base and from the blade at the same time. The base is by far the simpler of the two and most cabinet saws, by sheer design outperform any aftermarket contractor add on. The blade is a different story as the dust is traveling at a very high rate of speed as it leaves the blade. This involves encapsulating it and moving enough air volume to remove it from suspension before it leaves the blade guard.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

Ok lj, show us an example of your experience at collecting dust from a Contractor's saw instead of just flapping your gums. I spent a couple years working on it until I got it right. What really bothers me is that I show you people pictures and even a video and you still refuse to get it. Unbelievable.


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## lj61673 (Oct 31, 2011)

I have no experience with a contractor saw. Wouldn't buy one. A big part of the reason is the piss poor dust collection.
I don't care how many pictures you show, a saw that has an enclosed cabinet will always be tighter than a saw with an open one. In addition most cabinet saws today have a shroud enclosing the bottom half of the blade (PM, Grizzlly SS etc.) with an additional hose connected to a dust port. I can tell you first hand that this shroud is responsible for a lot of dust collection. 
Could you spend many hours and much money doctoring a contractor saw, plugging every opening and orifice, in hopes of making it as tight as most cabinets saws already come from the factory? Maybe.

P.s. if it took you a couple of years to get it right maybe that should tell you something….


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## lj61673 (Oct 31, 2011)

*"I guess that I need to stay in the shop and keep my ideas to myself. It's not worth the aggrevation."*

This sounds like a worthy endevour.


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## SamuraiSaw (Jan 8, 2013)

lj,

I wore out several contactor saws over the last 40 years. I made some modifications to mine to make dust collection better, but it was never great. I certainly didn't dedicate 2 years chasing the impossible. As you rightly point out, there are too many holes for truly efficient dust collection. The saw is designed to be open, which makes it lighter and portable. By design, dust collection will be marginal on a contractor saw, period.


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## Cortland (Aug 24, 2009)

Oldnovice
Yes, the back of my saw is covered with thin plastic sheet held in place with magnets. Of course, it doesn't work with a tilted blade but it's better than nothing and took all of 5 minutes to do. I'd rather spend the time working on the wood rather than the saw!


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

*I have no experience with a contractor saw.* Then lj61673 maybe you should stick to a topic that you know something about.


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## SamuraiSaw (Jan 8, 2013)

"maybe you should stick to a topic that you know something about.".

If you followed you're own advice you'd be a big hit on the tinker toy forums.


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## rodaddy2 (Dec 22, 2012)

Please remove me from your blog. Too many contentious contributors apparently could not read Rule Number 1. Sounds like a bunch of bickering children.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Have the base shroud and partially blocked backside on my Grizz 0444Z. Works pretty darned well when hooked to the HF DC.
Bill


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

I'm going to put this as plain and simple as I can so some of you can understand. I don't give a rats backside about what cabinet saw salesmen and cabinet saw owners think or have to say. Some of us are happy with our Contractor's saws. I spent alot of time improving dust collection for my saw, and I shared it thinking that others might be interested in it also. Infact I even went out and bought the equipment to do that kind of work, if you don't like it move on, I'm not interested in listening to a bunch of BS, I know what works. And to you Sam, all you have managed to do is a bunch of jaw flapping harassment , yet you have shown absolutely nothing that you have done. Kiss my dust port you freakin loser. I have reported your behavior so many times that I give up on Debbie or Martin doing anything about it. I've come to the conclusion that they are desperate.


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## lj61673 (Oct 31, 2011)

Not sure why you're taking any of this so personally. Contractor saws are notorious for bad dust collection. Period. I'm glad you spent so much time and effort trying to improve yours. I hope it works out for you. 
Don't delude yourself, its not like you split the atom, nothing you're doing is groundbreaking. And your style is abrasive and arrogant which does nothing for your credibility. Lose the self importance and the attitude, you're boring us to tears.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

Yeah, shame on me for having any self worth. *nothing you're doing is groundbreaking* It's remarks like that which hinder me from showing anything here that I've done. Why bother ?


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## madts (Dec 30, 2011)

SawSucker: Your attitude sucks. we are all Jocks, none better than others, but you seam to think you are the chief Honcho. Not. Now go get a life and chill out.


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## SamuraiSaw (Jan 8, 2013)

Gosh Chuckie…..

Does this mean I won't get a Christmas card from you this year?

You're showing your true colors again Charlie. And to use your favorite term, you don't have a clue.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

Sam, I don't have a clue ? well then why don't you clue us in. Get a profile and show something, or are you afraid that someone will figure out who you are ?


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## ReclamationArtisan (Feb 2, 2013)

SawSucker,
I like your sheet metal colllector for the bottom of the saw. Do you make one that will fit the Powermatic Artisan saw…. I think it is the Model 64. Thanks for your response.


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## SamuraiSaw (Jan 8, 2013)

Do yourself a favor and head to the local hardware store. Get yourself a 4" collar and a small sheet of sheetmetal. You can build one for yourself in about an hour for less than $15.


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## GT350 (Dec 22, 2012)

Disregard this post.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

Hi ReclamationArtisan, I'm not familiar with the size under the model 64, but I'm sure that I could make one to fit.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

Thought I would add my recent dust collection solution on my contractor's saw since it seems to be a popular link, although a little old.


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## David_H (Oct 16, 2014)

Holy Moly that is allot of effort, very nice work Sir!

PS thanks for resurrecting this, I am a new member and missed this brouhaha, very entertaining.


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