# Craftsman Table Saw 28462



## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

*Craftsman Table Saw Miter*

Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.

The saw came with a miter gauge which is T-shaped. Here's what I measured with my calipers.










Lots of articles say to cut a piece of hardwood to use as tracks. Sounds good in theory but the T shape makes this really difficult.

I am hoping I can get a piece of 5/8" stock that is 5/32" or less thick.Then I think I will use a standoff to space up from the bar to the table top edge. If I can do that, then I will have a workable miter slat to use for jigs (like the crosscut sled).


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## juniorjock (Feb 3, 2008)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


Welcome to LJ, Doug. I had the exact same problems with my first table saw (Hitachi). I didn't notice it until I bought a tenoning jig. There was no way that jig was going to work with the saw I had. I started to send the jig back but I decided that I would eventually buy another saw that had standard slots. I'm glad I kept it. When I bought it, I paid about $50 for it. Now, they go as high as $100.
Trying to build a cross-cut sled almost drove me crazy. Good luck. Maybe you'll be able to upgrade soon.
- JJ


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## intheshop (Aug 18, 2010)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


Doug,

Don't worry about the T-slots. Just use a rectangular strip for your runners. If you have a thickness planer they can be quite easy to make. If not, you can use a hand plane (assuming you have one) and it's not too much more difficult. Also, you can deliberately make the runners a little narrow, then as you screw them to the sled, shim them with business or playing cards so that they run against the inside (or outside) of the slots - as long as both of them reference the inside (or outside) of the slot they will take any play out of the sled.

Finally, make them a little shallow and place dimes in the bottom of the slot and place the runners on top of the dimes. That raises the tops of the dimes above the table, and the sled sits on top of the runners as you screw them in. When you remove the dimes the sled sits on top of the table. Then wax the sled, runners, table and slots, and it will slide like a dream. You could also use pennies if you'r a real cheapskate. ;-)


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## RKW (Dec 17, 2008)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


i had this problem with my first table saw. If i remember right i cut a rabbit on both sides of my runners which created a t-shape that worked. I no longer have the saw or the sled so i cant get any more specific, but i know i did it once and it worked great.


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## dpwalker (Aug 25, 2010)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


Hey Doug, I had the same problem with my cheap Craftsman. If you check Sears Parts direct http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?intcmp=xsite_Sears you should be able to find metal miter rods to fit your saw (about $5 each). I bought 4 & use them for sleds. I also used a grinder attachment on my hand drill to shave the notches flush with the slot. It works well.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


@dpwalker - I've been part of the way down that road. Problem is I want the slides to be longer than the one mounted to the miter. Ideally, I'd like them to be 1.5x times the table depth to make a solid sled runner.

I'm trying a crazy idea and will post if it works or not. Ordered two pairs of 4 ft long bar stock pieces. One that fits into the lower part and one that will mount above. If I can drill/attach them together I should have a track that will be long and fit well.

i like the idea of using the sears part for particular jigs like a custom tenon jig.

I think all of this is an attempt to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


Yeah, but if you make that silk purse out of a sow's ear, will the Saw Stop cut it anymore ? lol

Why in the world would you want the your runners on your sled to be a t ? Like Cole suggested, just make them fit the full depth and the narrowest width. Are you wanting to have to slide your sled in from the ends every time you use it ? I have standard slots on my ridgid, but I assure you my sleds do not and will not be t's. Does anybody do that?

Now if I misunderstood and you are trying to make runners for hold-downs, feather boards, etc. then it makes sense.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


@David - Thoughts greatly appreciated. A few of my reasons and these might be answerable but here goes anyway.

The narrowest width is .454 inches - a non-standard width. 3/8" wide bar stock would be .375 resulting in way too much slop. It's true that I could sandwich between both tracks and snug it inside or outside, but I don't want to have to span the blade since it complicates any jigs I want to build.

The bigger reason is that the top of the T is tabs not a slot and doesn't run the entire length. In fact, there are only two tabs (see picture). So unless I want to put a very long front end on the runners it just won't work.










The bottom of the track is a very convenient 5/8". I can buy bar that fits that track and has very little slop.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


Here's what I am going to do at this point in time.


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


Dear Legend,

Wow. I have learned something here (again). What was/is the purpose for those tabs? I've never seen those before. I just retired a 17 year old Craftsman saw that did not have those tabs.. although it did have the non-standard miter slot and a very disgusting miter gauge.

Good luck. You are a more persistent and patient man than I.

DG


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


I had a similar saw. I tried to taper some 2" oak on it. Scared me to death or at least enough to go buy a unisaw. New saw would be my recommendation.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


David G - No, I think I'm just the most cheap, although I am learning that cheap isn't better in the long run and I am sure I will eventually bow down and get a new saw.

@Wayne - that seems to be the common thread in most of the solutions, but I got some crazy in me that wants to come up with a "better" solution and I do tend to over Engineer everything I do.,

I have a buddy who offered me $50 for the saw. Don't know if he wants the saw or just wants to shut up my complaining about it. If he was less of a friends, I'd go for the deal in a second.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


@David G - The tabs appear to be there to hold in the miter slot. My theory is that they hired a group of high school dropouts who have never used a table saw before and gave them the opportunity to be a tool designer.

I can't imagine that tool is cheaper to manufacture with the tabs than it would be without them.

Best idea here is to take a grinder to the tabs. Then I could just use 5/8×1/2 bar stock and be done with it.


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


I know what i would do, for sure ! I would get out the die grinder ,and very carefully remove those tabs, finish up with files and fine sand paper.
I use steel bar stock for my sled ,and jigs, in my standard miter slots


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


I think the table top is plastic, not metal.


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## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


I will second those who say to get a new one. I had that saw and filed the tabs off with a metal file, about a hour's worth of work overall. I'd used the saw for minor cuts around the house like plywood and such and it served well until I decided to make my kid's crib. I spent about 4 hours making everything perfectly square and milled down some ash to make runners, built a perfectly square crosscut sled and had the motor sieze on the firs piece of 2" thick purpleheart I tried to run through it on the sled. Spent 400 on a closeout hitachi and have been way happier.


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


The table is cast aluminum


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


Ah, thank you. I couldn't tell by tapping on it and the coating on it makes it look plastic.

I did get bar stock and it fits snuggly. Now to figure out just how to join the bar stock.

If the tabs in the table miter slots were gone, 5/8" by 1/2" bar stock would fit just fine. Removing the tabs is probably the best solution, but I'm going to give these pieces a shot and see if I can make it work.


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## dq2 (Sep 21, 2010)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


I went ahead and bought 2 miter rods from Sears Parts direct for the exact same saw. My sled works OK, but not ideal. When I moved from Minnesota to Phoenix, I had to leave my good Craftsman table saw behind. Now my son is thinking about moving here. It would be a dream if he brought my other saw with him.


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## PSUmike (Jun 19, 2012)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


Doug, what did you end up doing with this problem? I have a very similar saw and the T-tracks drive me nuts. I've been thinking of filing them down. Also, I see your insert is simliar to mine as well. I've wanted to make a zero-clearance insert for this saw, but wasn't sure how to go about that since every other manufacturer makes oval-shaped inserts that seat all the way around. It seems these crapsman inserts only seat on one side. Photos to follow.


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## mythink (Jul 18, 2020)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


Got one of these need a table saw and got one off craigs list.
it is hard to make a wood miter for this table saw going to try.

was wondering if anyone has tried using a miter from a different manufacture?

Like the Ridgid/Ryobi/Homelite Miter Gauge Rod #HM-089240015177 it's dirt cheap not sure on the s&h.


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## FyrFytr998 (Mar 12, 2021)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


Found this thread while researching a birthday gift given to me.

After deliberating, I decided taking off the tabs was the easier thing to do. Was pretty easy with the multi tool and a file afterwards.

Will upgrade to a better saw once I get the hang of things. I'm pretty new to wood work, and I just built my work bench to this saws specifications.


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## FyrFytr998 (Mar 12, 2021)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


For anyone searching the web looking for info on newer Craftsman Table saws. They are still using a non standard width for their miter slots, but instead of it being 5/8ths, it is now 13/16ths. Go figure.

I found this out, because I bought the Milescraft featherboard on the strength that they had an adapter for a 5/8 slot. I mean who really double checks a measurement when the internet tells you what it is right, lol?

Well needless to say, the 5/8 miter was way too small, and the 3/4 miter was a little loose. No worries, it's nothing a washer as a shim couldn't fix, lol.

I don't mean to resurrect an older thread. It just happens this is one of the first topics that pop up when you internet search "Craftsman Miter Slots", and the tool has changed a bit since 2011.


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## 21Andean (8 mo ago)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Craftsman Table Saw Miter*
> 
> Like many people my first big shop tool was a table saw. Not knowing any better I bought a Sears Craftsman saw, model 28462. I'm sure there are good Craftsman saws, but the low end saws have a non-standard miter gauge slot. What does that mean? It means you can't buy any standard tools such as featherboards, tenon jigs, etc. I really need a cross-cut sled and I am left to come up with a custom track to fit. Adding insult to injury this table saw has notches which mean that a square block can't be used.
> 
> ...


Hello Lumberjocks,

I bought an used and sturdy Craftsman 10" table saw, model 137. It came with fence, stand and wheels. It did not have a miter gauge. See the two pictures.

Craftsman has discontinued the original miter gauge and does not have a replacement. Home Depot, Lowe's and Ace Hardware do not carry this miter gauge.

Would you have a miter gauge to spare or do you know a website that offers this website? Advice and tips are welcome.

Your consideration will be gratefully appreciated.

Thank you.

Sincerely,

Andean


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

*Throat Plate pains*

The standard throat is made so that the blade can be in any angle and not hit the plate. Trouble is, that's pretty wide. 5/8" in fact.










I want to make a zero clearance insert for my dado and a smaller throat for my standard blade but there's some real problems.

#1 - The throat plate is really thin. I measured .062. Will need to cut rabbits under the screw locations no matter what material I make it out of.

#2 - The shape is a pain. Will use hardboard and flushcut router bit to replicate plate.

#3 - I lost one of the rubber pads that go under the two screw locations.

#4 - I lost screws. Discovered that metric 5×16mm flathead (philips) screws work. Marked the bottom of the plate with the screw size using a P-Touch label.

#5 - The warning sticker was really sticky. I think I should be able to fix that with goo gone.










I really hate this saw…


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Throat Plate pains*
> 
> The standard throat is made so that the blade can be in any angle and not hit the plate. Trouble is, that's pretty wide. 5/8" in fact.
> 
> ...


That plate looks like one from a benchtop saw, and they can be a real pain to backfit with a ZCI.

One possible solution would be to get another plate (or plates), cut an opening in it (leaving a "rim" that sits in the throat recess), and make wood inserts that fit in the "rim". The inserts give you the ZCI part.

You mention using a dado cutter. Make sure that your saw can handle one before you go to a lot of trouble with a ZCI. If your arbor isn't long enough to allow full engagement of the arbor nut, you probably shouldn't use a dado.


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## tierraverde (Dec 1, 2009)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Throat Plate pains*
> 
> The standard throat is made so that the blade can be in any angle and not hit the plate. Trouble is, that's pretty wide. 5/8" in fact.
> 
> ...


Doug,
That was a big reason I stored mine in the shed and got a Ridgid 3650. The saw is a typical "Crapsman "odd ball tools" 
Your problems were the same as mine. To me it's a dangerous tool, although mine is about 20 years old. Yours looks fairly new.
Sawkerf has a good solution with an insert in an insert, abeit the arbor length.
If your budget allows, try to find a good used contractor/tablesaw and stay away from the portables. I kept my portable for when I need it at another site.

Good luck.


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## wildbill001 (Mar 2, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Throat Plate pains*
> 
> The standard throat is made so that the blade can be in any angle and not hit the plate. Trouble is, that's pretty wide. 5/8" in fact.
> 
> ...


I have a similar plate on my little DeWalt benchtop. Like you, I needed a zero-clearance and tried a number of times to mill something to no avail. Finally came up with a solution-laid a piece of 1/2" MDF on top of the saw.

Added some screw inserts so I could lock it down from underneath the existing table. Raised the blade, VOILA! zero-clearance. Oops. Need a fence. Looked around the shop and noticed my old, original Incra Jig. Perfect.

More screw-inserts in the MDF enabled me to mount the Incra.

Now, when I need a ZC, I place the MDF on top of the saw, lock it down. Then I loosely screw down the Incra, extend the fence so that it touches the raised blade. That allows me to make sure I'm parallel. Lock down the incra and away I go.

I can post picts this weekend if none of this makes sense.

Bill


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Throat Plate pains*
> 
> The standard throat is made so that the blade can be in any angle and not hit the plate. Trouble is, that's pretty wide. 5/8" in fact.
> 
> ...


Bill, that makes a lot of sense. I can picture it in my head.


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## tierraverde (Dec 1, 2009)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Throat Plate pains*
> 
> The standard throat is made so that the blade can be in any angle and not hit the plate. Trouble is, that's pretty wide. 5/8" in fact.
> 
> ...


Great solution Bill


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## Flocktothewall (Jan 16, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Throat Plate pains*
> 
> The standard throat is made so that the blade can be in any angle and not hit the plate. Trouble is, that's pretty wide. 5/8" in fact.
> 
> ...


Jim C. Did the exact same thing, same saw and all. I haven't looked back once. Every now and again a good contractors saw comes up on CL for real cheap, but that may not be in the options for the OP to get a new table saw.

But the Zero clearance insert and DADO blade (along with noise from a universal motor) set me over and I got a 3650.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Throat Plate pains*
> 
> The standard throat is made so that the blade can be in any angle and not hit the plate. Trouble is, that's pretty wide. 5/8" in fact.
> 
> ...


I keep checking CL but here in Pittsburgh there's not all that many listings and for the ones that are listed either they look really old or really crappy. In the meanwhile, I'm thinking hard about the Steel City. Lowes can get it and if I pick it up at the store there's no shipping charge.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

*Bars are in*

The aluminum bar stock arrived and I got a big surprise.

The 5/8" wide piece fit snugly in the bottom of the track with very little wobble/slop.

The surprise was the 3/8" x 1/2" stock. It also fit nicely between the tabs - when I turned the 1/2" side between the slots..

Stacked together, the are a very nice solution with just a small amount above the table. I could probably bolt them together and easily make a sled that spans the blade and rides above the table and in the track bottom. Here's a pic (hard to see from the pic, but it's the best I could do.










Here's a pan back:










I feel hopeful finally…

Time for a new CAD drawing!


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Bars are in*
> 
> The aluminum bar stock arrived and I got a big surprise.
> 
> ...


Nothing like a plan that works out for you. Congrats.

DG


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Bars are in*
> 
> The aluminum bar stock arrived and I got a big surprise.
> 
> ...


I'm not trying to pop your bubble here, but It seems like this is a lot more trouble than just removing the tabs

Craftsman 10 in. Table Saw with Stand 
Sold by Sears | Sears Item# 00928462000 | Model# 28462 
Table saw has a powerful 15 AMP motor, *cast aluminum tabletop*, die cast miter gauge with positive stops and a micro bevel adjustment all allowing for exceptional accuracy with fast, smooth cuts. This saw includes a 2 ? dust port for use with wet/dry vacuums and a dust bag that mounts onto rear vac port. Right telescoping wing adjusts for up to 30 right rip capacity and has a rear out feed for use with large materials. Saw can accommodate up to a ? cut 6 diameter dado stack. Added features are a folding, collapsible stand and on-board push stick, blade, rip fence, miter gauge and wrench storage.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Bars are in*
> 
> The aluminum bar stock arrived and I got a big surprise.
> 
> ...


@Bubinga - I'm with ya. I think I am a glutton for punishment to keep swinging at this but I kinda like messing with this sorta junk.

Plus, I'd like a general solution that can be done by anyone with basic tools. Putting the two pieces of metal together is going to be interesting. Either screw it or JB Weld it are the two leading contenders.

We do have a mill where I work so that might be what I end up doing


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

*Trading off two designs*

I'm trading off two designs for miter slot bars. The stock table and standard miter gauge looks like:










My two piece build-up looks like:










Removing the tabs looks like:










This is a pretty fun tradeoff.

*Material*
Either uses available materials although removing the tabs uses one piece of material not two. The two piece build-up requires a method to bond the two bars together. I'm going to give JB Weld (the Qwik version) a shot. One bar is less expensive than two, but the shipping was more than the materials anyway. 5/8" stock is not available from my local Lowes Depot.

*Versatility*
If the slot was modified, it would mean that the miter gauge is no longer supported in the slot by the top of the T. That may or may not make a difference. Plus the bottom of the miter gauge could be replaced by the bar stock. Modifying the table takes about an hour (according to one comment earlier in the thread) so that's not too bad. It will "look funny" but that's really no big deal.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Trading off two designs*
> 
> I'm trading off two designs for miter slot bars. The stock table and standard miter gauge looks like:
> 
> ...


I was frustrated by this problem as well. The final solution for me was to buy a Delta unisaw.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

*More on the Throat Plate and a "Duh!"*

OK, I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed. Nowhere near it. But it did occur to me that the reason the throat plate was so thin was that the table had a rubber gasket holding it up.










What if I simply took out the gasket? How deep would it be then? And could I do something with the depth? Turns out really easily. Turns out when I measured the depth of the plate, it was a clean 1/8". And I have piles of 1/8" hardboard. Maybe I am finally onto something?










Sounds like I need to put the flush trim router bit onto the router table and attach the metal throat plate to a piece of 1/8" hardboard and give this a shot. Will post progress on making a silk purse out of this sow's ear of a tablesaw.

Thought I had some 1/8" hardboard, but apparently there are different hardboard thicknesses other than 1/4" and 1/8". I think (if my math is right) that this stuff is 3/16".










Had a scrap of pegboard sitting around it it is closer.










Home Depot has sheets of hardboard which they say are 1/8" .

- Actual product thickness (in.) : 0.125

My calipers will be the judge of that. Yet another 13 mile (each way) trip to HD.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

*JB Weld - not so much*

Tried the jb weld on the two Aluminum bars. Didn't hold. Scuffed surface. Still didn't hold.










I did have a good idea. Wrapped the bars in wax paper before gluing to keep it from sticking in the track.

Good news is that it does scrape off easily.










Think I need to screw it together.

Grinding off the tabs looks better now…


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *JB Weld - not so much*
> 
> Tried the jb weld on the two Aluminum bars. Didn't hold. Scuffed surface. Still didn't hold.
> 
> ...


Is there different types of JB Weld? There may be an aluminum specific product. You may also want to check out Loc-Tite.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

*Stop the madness - track "solved"*

I've been making this way too hard. I am going to cull the best ideas from this thread and fix this.

Decided to forget about the bottom 1/8" and just use the 1/2" x 3/8" bar stock I bought. It's nearly flush with the surface and has very little play (about .013" or less than 0.8 degrees across a 16" sled).










I drilled oversized wood screw holes and will screw the tracks to the bottom of the sled.










If I shim the track from opposite sides of each track, that should limit the play.

Using #8×3/4 wood screws.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

*Table Saw Sled*

I cut the wood for the cross-cut sled. I'm basing this on the woodworking for mere mortals design , but with one difference, I want to have T track in the sled top to attach a tenon jig, The track will run parallel to the blade. Here's the pile of "stuff". The top is 18" deep x 26" wide. I made it a couple of inches deeper since I need to be able to square up 16" board shelving for my Stickley Inspired Entertainment Unit .










I used the T-track method when I made my drill press table (also copied from woodworking for mere mortals ) and liked the method.










Glue.










Glue drying (pressed by paint cans)...










Waiting on the glue to dry…


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

*Notional Tenon Jig for Table Saw*

One of my objectives in making the table saw sled is to mount a tenon jig to the sled. I want to bolt down the tenon jig into T track so I am adding a slot for the T track to the sled top. To do that I need to know the distance from the blade to the track. I've done a notional design using 3/4" lumber which shows the track needs to be 5-5/8" from the blade edge.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

*It's Hip to be Square*

Fence glued and clamped.










Squared fence to blade.










Stop block…










T-track - leave room to remove T bolt.










Now I get to wait again for the glue to dry.


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *It's Hip to be Square*
> 
> Fence glued and clamped.
> 
> ...


To me the sled is the #1 table saw accessory.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *It's Hip to be Square*
> 
> Fence glued and clamped.
> 
> ...


Can't imagine how I have got along so long without one - except that figuring out how to deal with the crapsman T track made this harder.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

*Sled and a Tenon jig oops*

Assembled more of the sled.



















Waiting on glue to dry for the back fence and supports.

*Big Oops*

Didn't think about this one… I wanted to mount a tenon jig on the sled. Even did a notional design to make sure I added T-track at the right place. Then I put the support bars. It wasn't until the glue was mostly dried that I realized I had not thought through this very well. The bars go over the blade - right where the Tenon Jig needs to go.

Need to rethink this. Probably better not to put this on the sled due to the lost 3/4" from the sled height.

Also, I chose to poorly route out the supports on both sides. I did it by hand and it turned out really poorly. Too much chip out and too wide but it'll do. Plus, I will need an oddly shaped stop block if I want to put the block closer than the edge of the supports allow.

Also noted that the track, which is put on early in this design, is now way too tight to easily slide. Will probably need longer track anyway due to the placement of the tabs. Good thing I bought twice the material I need


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## rmoore (Mar 9, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Sled and a Tenon jig oops*
> 
> Assembled more of the sled.
> 
> ...


At least your humble enough to admit your mess ups. Let's just call it a learning experience… or a prototype. I've made lots of prototypes.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Sled and a Tenon jig oops*
> 
> Assembled more of the sled.
> 
> ...


I get plenty of opportunities for humility. I think it could be helpful to someone else to see when I mess up and I've also got some great advise here on how to do better. I feel like this site is apprenticing me.


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## rmoore (Mar 9, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Sled and a Tenon jig oops*
> 
> Assembled more of the sled.
> 
> ...


Just read the rest of this blog. I made some zero clearance inserts for my Craftsman table saw which also has a thin original throat plate. Check this out. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46641


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Sled and a Tenon jig oops*
> 
> Assembled more of the sled.
> 
> ...


@Ron - Very cool. i did manage to make a 1/4" throat plate and was able to push the blade up by clamping the fence over the plate (make sure to leave room for the blade). I like the idea of putting a backing plate behind it, but cutting it with my circular saw really scares me. I was thinking about makinf the undersized (bottom) plate also out of 1/4" and gluing the two together. Also, doesn't the arbor hit the 3/4" or did you hog it out?


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## rmoore (Mar 9, 2011)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Sled and a Tenon jig oops*
> 
> Assembled more of the sled.
> 
> ...


Doug, I put the circular saw blade on my table saw as the 10 inch blade would not go down low enough to clear the insert. The arbor will hit if I raise it up high enough. You could use a Dremel or something to make a space for the arbor.


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## jonnybone (Jul 14, 2010)

LegendInMyOwnMind said:


> *Sled and a Tenon jig oops*
> 
> Assembled more of the sled.
> 
> ...


You need a new Table saw buddy!! /

I would check out those Bosch bench top models. They are super solid. Good stuff.


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## LegendInMyOwnMind (Apr 27, 2011)

*Sled done - working well*

I got the sled done and it works well. Used Aluminum bar stock (see earlier) to match the inconvenient Sears Craftsman miter slots.










Had to put the runners out the front and back.

This is a pretty decent solution to the track issue although the result is pretty tight.


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