# Laquer over wax/oil finish?



## JR545 (Feb 24, 2015)

Need some advice, I'm new to the whole "finishes other than poly" world.
I built a rustic console table for my wife out of reclaimed lumber so I could experiment with different finishes and techniques.
The top conists of segments of different species of pallet and fencing lumber lightly carbonized and skip planed with a tung oil finish. 
The legs(ripped down pine 2x's) and skirt (mystery hard white wood from a pallet) are carbonized and painted with a homemade chalk paint using a latex and calcium carbonate mixture. I scraped and sanded back the paint to simulate wear and added some brown wax to dirty up the white paint.
My question is, can I use spray laquer to seal over the whole project?
If not, what if anything could I use to seal the whole piece?
Please be kind in any criticism on the actual construction…..my feelings bruise easily..lol


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## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

No on the lacquer over the wax…

You might have some luck with shellac, it's a lot better at adhering to other finishes…

Good Luck!

Herb


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Zinsser Seal Coat = dewaxed shellac. It can go under and over anything and anything can go over it!


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## JR545 (Feb 24, 2015)

Thanks for the quick relies.
I was looking to grab some Seal Coat as a pre-stain for some of the softer reclaimed woods I use already.
Looking at Zinnsers web site for specs it appears that I *could* Seal Coat the entire piece and then poly over the Seal Coat?


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## rhford (Aug 28, 2013)

Yup. Shellac is known as a universal finish that you can put over or under any other finish. Seal Cote (the dewaxed stuff) is a perfect choice.


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## mickel12 (Mar 5, 2015)

Mian ayaz

Nice Post


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

I use minwax "polycrylic".
It will POP the distressed sanding areas.
Try it on a scrap piece. YOU WILL LIKE this product, it leaves a clear finish, no yellowing.
"I never use the wax method under paint to distress my projects" 
Once again you will have to experiment with acrylic over wax ! Use a test piece first. You might try a "PST" wash first to remove the wax.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Strip the brown wax and use glaze or thinned acrylic paint to "antique" the look, then topcoat with about anything. Using dewaxed shellac as a 1st topcoat would help with any other topcoat you want to use. Pretty sure the wax will be a problem even for shellac.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

While Zinssner Seal Coat is seen as a universal sealer, usually you would remove the wax with mineral spirits first. If the wax is not removed, you could have adhesion problems. Wax is hard enough to remove from smooth, closed grain hardwood. It would be nearly impossible to remove the wax from reclaimed wood. 
Does it have wax on it? If it just has well-cured tung oil you can use any finish of your choice. The title made me think you had waxed it. If it has wax on it, I would just add some colored wax such as Briwax or Howards Walnut wax. For a piece like this, a wax finish would be okay, and the colored wax will age it a bit.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

The wax is the problem - the curing oils applied like tung or linseed you will be OK.

If you had some NON-curing oil like mineral oil/butcher block oil, that you wanted to coat, that would be a problem


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## JR545 (Feb 24, 2015)

Thanks guys.
The wax was only applied to the painted portions of the table. I'll remove the wax with MS and try the glaze instead to preclude any finishing problems.
I also discovered after reading up on tung oil the the product my wife brought home is a wiping varnish instead of tung oil (Formby's). 
I should have this mess sorted out in the next few days and will update with results.
Thanks for all the suggestions/guidance.


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