# Seeking advice on door construction



## dan_fash (Jan 7, 2009)

I've been tinkering with the idea of replicating some old (100yr+) doors. I'm trying to make a decision on construction type. I don't want to do laminated, because the edges of the door would give away that it is new construction. Traditional r&s doesn't fit the look I'm going for. Think old castle doors. I'd like my doors to be able to be exterior doors, which I know get about as much abuse as possible, and especially have to be warp resistant, and excellent fitting. 
I read a simple article on door construction (motherearthnews.com I believe) that talked about a 3rd construction style they simply called joined. Basically they describe glued butt joints of long planks, but with 4 threaded rods bolted through and through.

www.motherearthnews.com/diy/build-wooden-door-zmaz90ndzshe.aspx

Anybody have any input here? The idea seems solid, but really I'm at a loss…

Thanks for your help

Dan


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## dan_fash (Jan 7, 2009)

No door builders out here that could help me?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

there is a million ways to skin this cat and it really depends on what your expectations are. Even 100 years ago doors came in all shapes and sizes and styles and construction. Maybe post a picture of what you'd like to replicate.

I had a hard time deciphering what the question really was.

I've seen doors that were simple 2" oak planks fastened together. Old and fantastic looking, and worth a fortune, but I'm not sure i'd want one on my weather tight house.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Hi Dan
I learned doormaking from my father in law who stopped making doors in his 70s and started at the age of 10.He made doors and windows for movie stars,Disney land and many high end homes.
His solution for making door that did not warp (particularly large doors) was to joint short pieces of wood for styles (best to use quarter sawn wood) then use 1/4" veneer on the faces and on the edges mitered to be undetectable and yes on large doors(some as large as 12'tall and over 5'wide) he would hide threaded rods routered through the rails inside the door.


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

The problem with the construction method you want is the 'excellent fitting' part.
How would you account for seasonal movement on an exterior door, even with the threaded rods?
In this instance I think an engineered approach is required, like Jim mentions, with veneering on top.


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## dan_fash (Jan 7, 2009)

The weathertight really is the crux… On the interior doors, nor really an issue. Jim, when you say he jointed short pieces for the stiles, do you mean that in the span of one stile, there were several smaller pieces?. I've seen some door construction where there was in essence 3 layers of 3/4" stock laminated and overlapping. I guess that's where I really need to focus. 
The 1/4 inch veneer won't work, as I do some very deep distressing, but making the outer layer 3/4 oak would prob work.

If I'm putting a speak-easy into the door (prob a small double pained window really) should I frame that into the layers, or just cut it out from the completed door?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Dan 
I should have made it a little clearer. He actually glued finger jointed short pieces together for the stiles ( I'd guess 8-10") and then veneered the the 1/4" on the faces and after thinking about it the edge may have been thicker than 1/4". I think you could probably make the face veneer thicker. The key point on the face veneer is that it's thick enough so when you mill the material the veneer doesn't show.


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## dan_fash (Jan 7, 2009)

Sounds interesting. Is there a structural benefit to finger jointed short pieces over single piece stiles if they are a layer in a lamination?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

The benefit is that you have small pieces that have different wood grains ,this eliminates one piece of wood twisting and cupping on the stiles making a much more stable door. The finger jointing makes it a continual piece that have lots of glue surface on the end grain rather than just laminating over separate pieces you try and glue end grain to end grain .
If you have a router table and a finger joint router bit you can do the finger joints with that or better yet a shaper and the right blades.


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## Loco (Aug 11, 2013)

Outdoor ? 2" solid heartwood teak or mahogany.Or use both.Got a lathe ?


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## Loco (Aug 11, 2013)

I like glass on external doors but dunno about up'ar in Methlehem. These are about a simple-elegant as doors get.
One way mirror ;-). I can see you but you can't see me !


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Interesting and unique doors Loco,nice work.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

This one works very well for me and I think it is the style you are looking for. It is a glue up but you have to look very closely to find the glue lines. Mitering the edges as Jim says would work even better but no one has ever noticed the joints in mine yet unless I showed them.
It has stood up for several years in a Canadian environment and has not changed shape or size at all.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I remember seeing that in projects ,great job Paul.


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## JustplaneJeff (Mar 10, 2013)

I recently built 7 doors for our towns theater which is on the historic registrar. I laminated white oak for my cores, and used mortise and tenon joinery. I then skinned both sides with QSWO 5/16 thick which made for almost invisible lines on the edges. That job was completed almost 1 1/2 years ago and the doors are still just fine. There is a few picts of this on my projects page if you would like to look. Good luck with your project


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

You can get very flat and warp free doors if you laminate the boards and then mill them to shape. For example:

triple lamination would serve most door construction. mill 3 boards to 5/8" thick by say 5 1/2" wide and 8'2" long

These 3 laminate will serve for a stile on an 8' door. Use resin glue such as Unibond 800 or West Systems Epoxy.

This will give you the waterproofing you will need for exterior applications.

Make up all of your parts in the rough dimensions and then mill both sides equally to final dimensions so you retain symmetry on the boards and door. This is an important step.

From there go to glue up and finish.

This is just an example. You can glue up very thick doors and not have any problems. You can even go to a 5 layer lamination if needed for even more stability.

Does it cost a bit? Yes. But you will get a high quality door that will last for a long time.

BTW, long threaded rods is a very good idea for larger doors. You might want to put in removable decorative plugs on them so they can be tightened once in a while.


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## agallant (Jul 1, 2010)

I made the front door to my house out of quarter saw 8/4 oak. I did mortice and tennon construction I also added some large bolts in for extra strength. The panels I used plywood. I have had no movement in the door.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I like frame and panel construction to control wood movement. Maybe you could make the castle door look, and find some way of controlling wood movement. Here are some options…
- add a frame and panel, yet use rustic materials
- use a laminated core, and make the veneers look like planks (Jim's comments above)
- use solid 8/4 stiles on the hinge and strikeplate sides, but make the rest from 1/4" thick veneers.
this way you would never see the glue lines.

Best of luck.


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