# Starter Hand Plane Set



## uMinded (Apr 30, 2013)

I am learning to work wood with hand tools only. I have recently tried chinese knockoffs (the rear handle threads stripped out) and restoring antique shop finds (needed a LOT of TLC to true up but it did work).

I was looking at getting: (all amazon's names)

- Stanley 12-139 Bailey No.60-1/2 Low Angle Block Plane
- Stanley 12-204 No 4 Smoothing Bench Plane
- Stanley 12-905 14-Inch No.5 Contractor Grade Smooth Bottom Bench Plane
- Woodstock D3752 3-In-1 Shoulder Plane
- Stanley 12-978 1-1/2-Inch x 10-Inch Bullnose Rabbet Plane
- Stanley 12-951 SpokeShave with Flat Base

This is less than two Lee Valley or Lie Nielsen planes so its very affordable. The New Stanley SW planes have had decent reviews, they are not their old quality but still very usable. I have never seen the Woodstock 3-in-1 before so I would be interested in hearing opinions.

I am brand new to using hand planes so I don't want to buy the best to learn on…. I made that mistake with a $65 chisel I overheated…


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## bobasaurus (Sep 6, 2009)

I would lean towards the WoodRiver V3 line of planes from Woodcraft over any modern Stanley plane. They are fairly affordable and built like the old bedrocks. I have the #6 and it's fantastic.

Also, you might want to pick up just one or two planes, try them out, learn to sharpen them properly, then make decisions about which to acquire next as your current/next project demands.


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## uMinded (Apr 30, 2013)

Are the new Stanley planes based off the bedrock design? I just watched a video where he said "integrated into the sole casting". If thats true then the new Stanleys are not very tunable at all!


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## PLK (Feb 11, 2014)

Every new plane will need to be tuned to a certain extent. I would buy a 4 and 5 stanley and start with those. learn to flatten everything and tune it up. After you have versed yourself on those 2 and are happy with how you have tuned them up you will be able to answer your own question I believe.

Paul


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## lateralus819 (Mar 24, 2013)

Buy some Vintage planes. Learn to the them. Plenty of knowledge on the Web. Especially here.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Get a #4 and a #7.

A #5 is a carpenters tool. For a cabinetmaker it is a 
compromise tool or a luxury in-between size. I use
#5 planes plenty at the bench but mostly for hogging 
and an old $20 Bailey will do for that. Other than
that they are useful for work on a ladder or on your
back under a house. They aren't too heavy but they
really aren't long enough to shoot edges in some
furniture scale work.

Carefully consider shoulder plane manufacturer reputation
for shoulder planes or return policy. There are a lot of 
dogs out there that aren't machined consistently square.

The block plane and spoke shave you can skip, imo. Get
some Iwasaki files instead.


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## uMinded (Apr 30, 2013)

@lateralus819 I have been looking all over for vintage planes but they are VERY rare in my city and surrounding area. I tried online deals but try shipping a #7, its ridiculous.

@Loren I considered getting a #4 and #6. I want to learn to flatten a board by hand but will still use a jointer and planer for the majority of projects. I do not have enough hobby time to do it all by hand EVERY time…


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## PLK (Feb 11, 2014)

To each his own, I guess. The #5 I think is a great way to get into hand planing honing the base, understanding a plane, and finding your stroke.

I used a block plane just today on some shop cabinets I'm making. I find a block plane an indispensable tool in cabinet making.

The saying "Ask a woodworker how to do 1 task and you will get 3 answers from the same woodworker comes to mind here"

This photo was taken 6 hours ago, the block plane on top of the cabinets after finishing some edges.










Paul


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I say then put your dollars now into a fine #4, sharpening
equipment, some card scrapers and a no. 80 cabinet scraper.

If you want to spend new, buy premium because they
work the best and have the best resale value. Many of
us don't have deep pockets and I know from experience
that a lot of the shiny hand tools don't get used much
in most work. Pros working at a high level need a 
lot of tools available at their fingertips. For the amateur
looking to grow, I say invest in a few planes and scrapers
and maybe one or two fine chisels (filling out temporarily
with cheaper ones with crude handles)... and sharpening
gear!

Files and rasps don't get much love but for those of us
who are working at the bench and looking for efficiency
they are real time savers. The basic hardware store
rasps you may have used suck. Files are not so
class-conscious but good rasps and floats (Iwasaki
files are floats) are pricey to very pricey and worth it.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

I have always had a block plane. Can't imagine how a woodworker could work wood without one.
A #4 is most folks "go to" bench plane for finishing work.
And I have to say my next favorite plane is my Low angle Bevel up Jack, or perhaps my #6 fore plane.
I don't have a #7 or #8 but really want one. Will probably go for a Wood River #7 next.
My favorite specialty plane is my #92 shoulde plane.


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## sikrap (Mar 15, 2009)

Post a WTB (Want To Buy) in the "Trade & Swap" forum listing what planes you're looking for and I suspect you'll get plenty of offers. There are a few guys here that deal regularly and will sell you well tunes and sharpened planes ready to work at reasonable prices. IMHO, they will be better quality than the new Stanleys.


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## uMinded (Apr 30, 2013)

If I am going to spend a whole lot I can only afford two planes. Has anyone used a Lie Neilsen Rabbet Block Plane? It its works as a rabbet and block I think its a great deal. I will be trimming a lot of tenons and currently I use a chisel edge and a sanding block.


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## uMinded (Apr 30, 2013)

@sikrap I did talk to a few with good prices but once shipping was added on I was at the price of a new WoodRiver. I think a WoodRiver would be the same quality than an 80yo stanley given they use the bedrock design.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

I'd love to have a LN rabbet block, but now you're talking money. But one of those, a #4 smoother and a Veritas Bevel up Jack would really cover a lot of bases, short of actual jointing.


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## WhoMe (Jul 9, 2009)

STAY AWAY from the Stanley contractors planes you have listed (12-204, 12-905). The pace I work at sells them and they are almost duplicates of the Groz line of planes. Actually, imo, the Groz are better because they have wood handles. But both have crappy castings, rough machining, rough adjustability, THIN blades of unknown quality and so on….
The "contractors" label should give you a clue that these are used for rough work, paint scraping and sharpening with a grinder….

I say you should shorten your plane list to 3 planes to start. the block plane you have listed, 12-139 is a keeper as it is a good plane. So you just need a medium bench plane like a 4 or 5 and a 7. Since a 4,5 will be used Much more than the longer ones, in general, you should spend decent money on that. I think the suggestion of the Wood River V3 #4 & 5 planes is a good one.You should look into those. I'm not a fan of the fixed frog of the Stanley sweetheart #4 but the#62 (#5 sized equivalent) is quite a good plane and many like the 62 better than the #5 but that is a personal choice.
As for a #7, a decent used one off Craig's list/ebay type sites ( or here on lj for that matter) would be your best bet. Not as expensive as a WR V3 #7 but still, based on the expected use, you don't need to spend big bucks on this one.

Also, learn to sharpen and invest in a sharpening system of your choice.

As for the rest of the tools on the list, accumulate them as the need from projects arise. No need to spend money on tools that you won't use (unless you want to) if you don't end up doing projects that need them.

Last thing, go find the Handplanes of your dreams thread. There are quite a few plane hoarders/collectors over there that are recently thinning their collections and may be able to help you out with a couple planes.


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## uMinded (Apr 30, 2013)

Hmm…

I think I will get the LN rabbet block as it is the exact same price as a Stanley 12-139 Bailey No.60-1/2 Low Angle Block Plane and Woodstock D3752 3-In-1 Shoulder Plane combined and I can bet it will be superior to both in every way.

I will keep looking for a restored #4 in the meantime and maybe if I really need one I will go for the WoodRiver V3.

@WhoMe I can ship a #4 but a #7 is nearly $100 to ship, its ridiculous.

Any comments on the rabbet plane? I would have though it was a good idea for those minor tweaks on casework. Also the spoke shave would be useful for shaped legs on chairs and furniture. Alternatively I could use that money on a good cabinet scraper and a mill file and burnisher.


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## sikrap (Mar 15, 2009)

I have the LN rabbeting block plane and it is an excellent plane. It will easily do the tenons for you. Is someone telling you that shipping a #7 is $100? If so, that is ridiculous. I can ship a #7 anywhere in the U. S. for less than $20 via Priority Mail. I have a couple of Stanley #7's that I should post for sale. One is an English made Stanley that will be $75 (plus shipping) and an old American Stanley that will be $65 plus shipping.


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## uMinded (Apr 30, 2013)

I will buy the LN rabbeting block this weekend. If someone has a user #4 I would be interested in prices.

Do you cabinet and furnatire makers use scrappers or spokeshaves or rasps more often?


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## ChuckC (May 13, 2010)

+1 for the LN rabbet block. I use it all the time.


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## Rb12 (Apr 19, 2012)

I have been migrating over to the hand tool world myself. I have a #4 (Woodriver), #7 (1940's-ish Stanley with a new Veritas blade), and a router plane (Veritas). I conceptually would like more planes (yes I am hooked) but tbh I have been able to really get great woodworking results with these three.

I got the #4 first and learned to set it up and sharpen it (already have good experience sharpening chisels) and figured out its shortcoming (leveling a bench top with a #4 was a pita) before buying others. Personally, I would be reluctant to go out and buy a wide array of the same manufacturer not knowing if you like the tote, like the functionality, etc.

That aside, with a 4 and 7 I have been able to work with s2s or better, join boards, and effectively make furniture. If I was going to buy rough, I would get a 5 for hogging off more material.


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## uMinded (Apr 30, 2013)

I have a type 15 #5 I restored but the mouth is a quite open from use. I am thinking of using that as my hogging plane.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Lets see, should I get into this fray?

#3 and #4 are SMOOTHERS used in place of sandpaper. I happen to have a few of each. The Wood River ones are decent. I happen to have the #4 V3

#5 is a jack/ fore plane. ( happen to have four of them) It CAN be set up with either the edge cambered, or straight across. Mine are set up both ways. Need a small panel to be flat, use the jack plane as a long smoother. Rough sawn lumber? Camber the iron to an 8" radius. It will work a rough board down to about as flat as you can make it, and fast. I also happen to have a shorter jack plane. Think of a #3 with a 11" long base.

#6 is a small jointer/TRY plane. You use it to ensure the panel is true/flat. Have a larger panel? I use the #6 to flatten it out, and even smooth out longer/wider boards.

#7, #8 are called "Glue-ing Jointers" mainly to get an edge straight. As in glued up panels. Mine is a wood bodied Stanley #31. Wide iron, with just a hint of camber. Takes some practice to use right.

Block planes: Low angles, standard angles, adjustable/non-adjustable mouth. Never have enough of these little guys. Can knock off a corner, trim a tenon, adjust a fit, and a number of other one-handed items. A small one can reside in your shop apron's pocket, like a #103 size. I have a Stanley 9-1/2 adjustable mouth that cost a few dollars. There is also a #110 non-adjustable for rougher work. You can take it along when selecting rough sawn wood. A few swipes to tell what the boards look like under the rough sawn marks.

Special duty planes: Shoulder planes are handy, IF you do a LOT of tenon work. Not much good for making the tenon in the first place. A rebate plane can do that very easily. Like a Stanley #78. It will work just as good as the new"Skewed iron" ones, and can be had for a lot less.

A rogues gallery of sorts









an older #9-1/2 block plane









and a try plane(#6) a Jack plane (#5) a Junior jack plane (5-1/4) and a #3 smoother. The Jointer tends to hide down in the Tool Chest









24" long with a 2-3/8" wide iron. Spent a whopping $15 on it, and spent a few hour refurbbibg it, It will make an edge straight, though.


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## pauldye (Sep 10, 2012)

@Loren: LeeValley has a bevel-up jointer plane that looks like a #7 in size and width. How would this compare to the WoodRiver #7 ??

Paul


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## oltexasboy1 (Sep 25, 2013)

Check out http://hocktools.com/ if you high quality blades. Just for reference, if you have big or old hands like me the Wood river planes have a very small tote and make them hard for me to hold. Most of the planes I have are Stanley or Bailey planes and work very well when they are properly sharpened, that is the trick to good planes is a good sharp tuned edge. I have a small Stanley SH block plane that I like a lot. Good luck.


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## WoodAndShop (Apr 8, 2014)

Stop! Don't buy new inexpensive handplanes!!! Buy vintage and fix them up, and they'll last a lifetime! I started a blog that helps people (like you) get started in traditional woodworking with only hand tools, so please watch my video & read my article on how to choose hand planes:

http://woodandshop.com/woodworking-hand-tool-buying-guide-handplanes/


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