# Hitachi Table Saw



## Radish

Aw come on Obi, don't hold back.


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## Chipncut

Aren't you afraid that the *"Big Hitachi God"* will put a curse on you.

If your telling the truth though, you'll be safe.


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## Obi

I don't have the time to suck up to the *"Big Hitachi God"*, and all the reviews for the *5 Star* products are great but if there is a safeety issue, or something bad with a product it is my responsibility to share it with my friends. Appearently the *"Big Hitachi Gods"* don't use power tools or they would have figured this out. And I'm not afraid because if Hitachi would have cared they would have stumbled across this review when I first posted it back in '06 when the thing caught fire.

But thanks for lookin out for me Dick.


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## Coffinmaker

I AM SO glad I just read this review…on the night I bought my Hitachi 12 Compound Mite Saw I looked at this saw…AND I almost BOUGHT IT..!!!!!!!!!!! Whew…that was close..!I didnt though and the next day I went to HD and bought the Ridgid TS3650 for LESS then the Hitachi.!I LOVE gift cards and discount coupons….LOL.


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## Chipncut

*You're alright Obi!!*


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## gizmodyne

You speak the truth Obi.


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## dalec

Obi,

The HP ratings as I have learned reading the many forums is terribly misleading in that the 3.0 HP is the peak hp rating. As I learned looking at conversion tables Amps:HP is much more accurate measure of a tool's power.

Unfortunately, manufactures like to use peak HP which is a much higher number than what the tool really produces. The HP rating is a much more familiar measure for most of us, so we tend either not be knowledgeable about what the amp rating means or ignore it when looking at power rating measures for tools.

With your experience, I hope there been or will be a product safety recall on this Hitachi saw.

Thanks for this stand up review.

Dalec


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## Obi

As I've progressed using the table saw (as I cannot afford to buy a new Griz) I realize that this would have been better designed with a direct shaft on the tilting handle instead of a plastic gear (which melted when it caught fire).


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## dalec

It sounds like Hitachi could have done a much better job of designing their TS. Having a saw catch fire is pretty disquieting.

Dalec


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## decoustudio

so, tell us what you really think Michael.

this was a great review.

Has me wondering why you had a fire?

Was it a hot chip from the cutting process, or electrical?

I shop vacuumed up a hot ember cleaning around the wood stove once. When I smelled that something was wrong, it had started to smolder in the dust inside. As close as I have come to losing my dream.

loved this one, 
Mark


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## Obi

Mark,
The design of this table saw is as follows:
The top section is made of sheet metal and it folds in right where the body bolts to the legs. Because the port is very near the front it doesn't suck the sawdust out of the back. Somehow, while milling some 8/4 oak, the blade got over heated. It then over heated the sawdust piled up all around on top of the lip. I just happened to look back after I shut it off while walking away I noticed embers and smoke. After extinguishing the fire, and the cold sawdust was vacuumed out, it became evident that the plastic gear had melted in the heat.

If they made the body full size and made a better dust port the saw would be 30% better.
If they made the tilt mechanism "Direct-drive" they would improve design, cut costs and improve it 30%
If they made it truly 3HP and call it a cabinet saw, you almost have a perfect saw.

ONLY THEN WOULD I SAY "BUY THIS SAW."


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## FrankA

I am so….. glad I read this. I have been looking at this saw at Lowes for about a month. The last thing I need is another table saw fire. I am without a table saw now because of a craftsman saw catching on fire. (they no longer make it so no need for a review) I almost bought this saw about five times but kept talking myself out of it. Been waiting to find a used Unisaw so I guess my wait continues. 
Thanks so much for the review.


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## Obi

Hitachi is going to HATE me.


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## USCJeff

I was very close to getting this saw at one point. A Hybrid seemed the way to go for my budget and needs. My wife (great woman) told me to get what I'd be happy with down the road as I had really liked a couple true cabinet saws. Got a Grizzly 1023 and haven't looked back.


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## Bubba

Sorry, but I have to make a correction for others who, like me, run across this thread while shopping for a new saw. *The dust port on the C10FL is supposed to be oriented toward the back of the saw.* The reviewer above states that the port is "off-centered toward the front," which leads me to wonder whether the saw was assembled incorrectly. Granted, the documentation for this saw is poor, but the diagram does show (and common sense would indicate) that the dust collection port should face the rear. In addition, the stand has solid panels on the front and sides, but only a cross brace in the rear. That is obviously for connection of a dust collection hose. The manual does remind you to make sure the front of the stand is aligned with the front of the saw. The dust collection pan could be reversed, but then it would be difficult to attach a hose. I just really have to wonder how this saw was assembled and whether a dust collection hose was attached. This is not a dangerous saw if assembled correctly and used with proper dust collection.


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## Obi

*According to the diagram the dust port points away from the operator* (whether thats the front or back is immaterial). It was assembled according to the instructions. It's a bad design, and misleading. It has a lip all around the inside so it's going to collect dust everywhere. You can go look at the diagram on page 30

Apparently Bubba joined Lumberjocks just to check the review on this saw because it's the only thing he's commented on. Must be a Hitachi Emploee trying to redeem this P.O.S.


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## Bubba

Yes, I did join after seeing this review. I stated that in my first sentence. I do not work for or represent Hitachi in any way. However, when people are shopping for a new saw they do search for reviews, and I thought this one was unfair. I added my $.o2, as anyone should be free to do.

Any saw is going to have small areas, such as the lip you mention, inside the case where dust collects. That is normal. However, as you pointed out yourself, most of the dust collects at the back of the case. Having the dust port at the front instead of the rear is obviously incorrect. Whether that's "incorrect enough" to cause the problem you had, neither of us can say for certain. But it's only fair to point out that the condition was present.

I notice you did not address my question of whether you were using a dust collection system. Even with the port mis-oriented, I'd think a good DC would pull a lot that dust out. To have a fire hot enough to melt that gear, there must have been a lot of sawdust burning in there, not just a little around the lip.

The bottom line is that it's the reponsibility of the owner/operator to make sure their machines are properly maintained. You should have been looking inside that case long before this happened. I'm sorry, I have absolutely nothing against you. I don't know anything about you. You may be the finest woodworker on the planet for all I know. But we all make mistakes. All I wanted to do was point out that the dust collection tray was installed incorrectly and it's unfair to trash the saw because of that.

The saw is not perfect. The manual is very far from perfect. Frankly, it sucks. But that's not uncommon either. Still, it is a very good saw for the money.


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## Obi

Yes I use a dust collection, and it was hooked up and running. The lip is so large that it cannot help but to collect all around the lip, and the reason I *DO NOT* recommend this saw is any tool that has design flaws so that when used properly with all the possible safety features, still manages to catch fire because of said design flaws does *NOT* get a good review. The dust collection port and the lip are only two flaws.
The other one is the plastic gear used to tilt the blade. After the fire the plastic gear melted making it no longer usable unless you turn the shaft by hand. Had they mounted the tilt mechanism on the side with a direct drive handle that problem wouldnt be there. If they put the lips outside there wouldnt be anything to catch the sawdust on.

The whole purpose is to give a review, and I did that. If there were saws out there and someone reads this and saves another $200 they could get a grizzly which has more power and a better design


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## TheSteve

I am currently having to make due with a 10" hitachi contractor table saw that is about 3 years old… the arbor? is direct drive into the motor with no adjustments and now wobbles 1/16" or more side to side so i deal with horrid saw marks… the fence system on mine is horrible… will not stay square and will not slide with anything less then a hammer wack. the blade elvevating gears are in such bad shape that the table tilts almost over when you try to raise / lower the blade and ive cleaned it best i can. it wont rip oak over 1", and on top of that the miter slots are 5/8 groove with staggered t slots about every 6 inches, so after market guages and jigs arent an option. ive even fabricated an oak miter slide to try to make 1 but the stupid staggered t slots catch when it slides.

i dont think i will ever buy another hitachi tool in my lifetime.


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## Obi

I own several Hitachi tools and in most part they are great tools. I only have an issue with this saw.


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## woodtimes

Obi, thanks for the review, the spirited debate is fun to read. 
I noticed this saw last year when it showed up in the local Lowes. I too, am glad I bought the Ridgid vs this one. I have the Hitachi router and orbital sander, both of which I really like. I needed spare on both items and got them with no problem from Hitachi. I noticed a few weeks ago, one of the woodworking magazines reviewed table saws and this one was mentioned as closer to the "bottom of thie list". I curious, how was the customer service when you contacted Hitachi about your incident?? BTW, I also recently noticed a very poor recommendation on the new Hitachi sliding chop box. I still have my eyes on one of their cordless drills, I do like their designs on these. Bob


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## Obi

I have several Hitachi Products… 2 cordless drills, both of them 12 volt. One a regular cordless drill the other impact. The 12 volt hitachi is the most ass kickin driver I've ever used in this size (12 volt) The drill was less impressive. I have 2 Hitachi Routers. 1 is a 1 3/4 hp variable speed router which is good for smaller projects but suffers when using them for raised panels. The other is a 3 1/4 hp variable speed plunge router. Again… ASS-Kickin.

Just so Hitachi doesnt think I hate them or something I recommend the Hitachi 3 1/4 HP Variable Speed plunge router and the 12 volt impact driver… ALL DAY LONG! Great products. And the prices are very good, so buy today and go do it at LOWE'S


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## TexasTimbers

Thanks for sharing your review Obi. I respect it but I too resepctfully take exception with it because I have had the opposite experience.

I can assure everyone out there, the dust collection on mine is the best I've ever had and I have owned 7 table saws in 19 years. I bought this saw for my wife because my 16" Oliver is way too big for her to do the tedious things she does on a table saw, and I find myself using this saw alot more than the 1947 Oliver that I love. I'm certainly not comparing the two! But the Hitachi is NOT, from my experience, anywhere near the failure described here. Obi has onviously had a bad experience whether his fault or not, and that is not my point to try and assess or address.

I believe anyone considering this saw, should definately look at other reviews. Just Google the term "C10FL Review" and you'll get a load of reviews to read from other users and some editors. Most reviews are very positive. Most reviews mention the terrible instructions (I concur wholeheartedly) and the 3HP rubbish, and also how GREAT the dust colleciton is. Notibally exceptional in most users' view. It's obvious something is not right about your DC situation Obi I hope you flipped that bottom tray around it's obviously turned the wrong way.

I can take pictures for you all, there is very little dust inside my cabinet and the saw is hooked, from 35 feet away and 3 elbows, to a shop-shared 2HP DC.

Even though it is a 1.5HP motor it cuts as well as any other 1.5HP saw with a sharp blade, which is mandatory for any cutting tool. I have riped 6/4 Osage Orange with no problem. I didn't push it as hard as I can like with my Oliver, but I don't expect the 1.5HP to take it on the chin like the 240v 7.5HP 3 phase can. The fence, once adjusted properly, is smooth and accurate. The stamped steel wings were flared up but I had them adjusted and flat in about 20 minutes. I strengthened the flimsy legs (not avaialble on *most* saws in this price range) with strips of 1/2" plywood and took all of 10 minutes.

I agree one should not have to make jury-rigged mods on a new saw, and they aren't totally necessary on this one, but both Grizzly Table saws (both of which I loved especially the 1023 GS slider) needed MUCH more tweekeing from the factory than did this saw.

I have to add that I stole this saw, brand new in the box from Lowe's for under $240 on the road TTL. So that did affect my ability to smile as I made the minor mods to it that I did. But had I paid $500 for the saw I would have still been happy with it. This, from someone who sets a high bar for his machinery.

I do not have an affinity for one brand over the other really. I have always used the motto Buy the tool, not the wrapper. Overall Hitachi has good engineering, but their other two smaller table saws Lowe's is now carrying are absolute boat anchors. This saw however, is not one of them.

If you read this review and want to consider this saw, do not make your decision based on Obi's, or my, review. Read more and you'll see Obi, while certainly sincere and truthful and honest on conveying HIS experience with this saw, by no means represents the majority who own this good value (in my case GREAT value) saw.

No hard feelings Obi and I hope you don't take it that way, nor that you have to defend your review once again. I am not attacking it by any meands just taking exception that your experience with this quite decent, dependable saw, is the norm.

Cheers. Kevin.


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## oldone

I am considering the Hitachi C10FL table saw as my first non-portable table saw, I have researched a lot of table saws over the years and this one impresses me as a decent saw for the price. I am a newcomer here and have been reading all the opinions on this particular saw. I even went so far as to download the owners manual and parts manual for this saw and after studing these very carefully, I am wondering if Obi assembled the dust collection chut backwards, as the assembly portion of the manual I downloaded shows the chute opening to be assembled to the rear of the cabinet instead of to the front, but I may be interpreting the assembly instructions incorrectly.
Also my download of the owners manual explains in the motor wiring instructions that you can either wire this saw for 115 volt operation or 230 volt operation, of course the 230 volt option will definately mean a more powerful saw ! 
I haven't purchased this saw as yet but am very interested in it and some of the features I like about the saw.


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## Obi

I PLACED THE DUST COLLECTION AT THE END OPPOSITE THE OPERATOR. THEY WAY THE INSTRUCTIONS SHOW.

YOU WANT TO BUY THIS SAW? GO AHEAD. FOR A COUPLE HUNDRED MORE YOU CAN GET A REAL CABINET SAW FROM GRIZZLY.

i'VE BEEN IN THE WOODWORKING BUSINESS FOR OVER 30 YEARS.

I'VE GOT CABINETS IN THE SILVER LEGACY CASINO IN RENO, NEVADA.

I'M NOT A NOVICE, THIS IS WHAT I DO FOR A LIVING.

*BUY THIS SAW*


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## ShipWreck

I love my contractors saw. If I feel lazy and do not feel like hooking up my dust collection, it all falls to the floor. Cabinet saws are nice, but they have thier cons too.


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## Grumpy

Nothing like a bit of constructive criticism on a review. Good post Obi. I am glad I have a cabinet saw for most things but portability is an issue.


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## Obi

Portability is such an issue that I just went out into the shop and removed the wheels. Then I took the worlds most worthless p.o.s. dust collection shroud off and now… I can fabricate a proper method to collect the dust.

*THANK YOU ALL FOR INSPIRING ME TO TEAR THE USELESS CRAP OFF THIS MACHINE*


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## oldone

First of all not all of us have the unlimited amount of funds that others do, so we have to look at and consider cost above all, I for one cannot afford to pay $700.00 to thousands of dollars for an expensive cabinet saw for my home shop, I am basically a woodworking hobbiest and do-it-yourselfer. I am going to take your advice and buy the C10FL and judge for myself, also I'm pretty sure that I can fix the so called dust collection problem and tilt gear problem fairly quickly and easily and at little extra cost to me.
Oh, and just a little insight, even those who think they know everything there is to know, may just be kidding themselves regardless of their experience, etc.
I can certainly tell by your last comment that you have more money than commen sense !
Good luck with trying to prove everyone who disagrees with you as being wrong or know-nothings.
Their are certainly a lot of others on other forums who disagree with you on the virture of this saw !


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## motthunter

tell us how you really feel.


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## Obi

*O.K. MAYBE I WAS A LITTLE UNFAIR. IT'S PROBABLY BETTER THAN ALL OF THE OTHER TABLE SAWS IN ITS PRICE RANGE, BUT I DON'T KNOW ABOUT THEM, I BOUGHT THIS ONE. I USE IT EVERY DAY. IT HAS DESIGN FLAWS THAT ONLY SOMEONE WHO USES IT EVERY DAY WOULD NOTICE. ALL I'M SAYING IS IF YOU USE YOUR TABLE SAW EVERY DAY, IT WOULD BE WORTH THE EXTRA $200.00 AND BUY THE GRIZZLY INSTEAD OF SPENDING $500.00 ON THIS ONLY TO FIND THAT IT HAS FLAWS IN THE DESIGN.

SOME PEOPLE WHO HAVE READ THIS REVIEW TAKE IT PERSONALLY … LIKE THEY EITHER DESIGNED IT OR THEIR NAME IS HITACHI.

LIGHTEN UP, IT'S A TABLE SAW. IT'S ONLY ONE BAD REVIEW.

REVIEWS ON TOOLS IS LIKE A CRITIC AT THE THEATRE. NOT EVERY BODY IS GOING TO LIKE THE SAME MOVIE, NOT EVERYBODY IS GOING TO SEE IT FROM THE SAME SEAT, FROM THE SAME EYES AND SOME PEOPLE GET UP AND GO PEE OR GET A SNACK AND MISS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE SHOW.

IF YOU'VE USED THIS SAW, THEN WRITE YOUR OWN REVIEW AND YOU CAN EVEN SAY I'M A JERK, I DON'T CARE. AS I SEE IT, IM GETTING FAMOUS.

HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!*


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## mrtrim

lol go obi !! ive not written any reviews for no particular reason but after reading through this im not sure ill bother . i thought a review was to relate ones personal experience ( good or bad ) with a particular tool . and collectively we find out if a tool has a problem or if maybe one person got a lemon or whatever . i dont think anyones personal experience needs to be rebutted unless youve shared that experience . so if these guys havent been in your shop useing your saw , i agree write your own review and relate your own experience . thats what makes the review system work ! sorry didnt mean to rant .


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## Obi

*THIS REVIEW IS ON PAGE ONE OF THE GOOGLE SEARCH*

HALLELUJAH, I'M FAMOUS!!!!


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## TexasTimbers

My initial thoughts when I read these replies were "Wow Obi! CAPS, *Bold*, *CAPS AND BOLD*, the whole enchilada! I thought I had included enough discalimers to make it clear I was not attacking your review, just giving my own. Maybe you are just worn out on this thread (don't blame you)."

But then I read mrtrim's post:

Quote by mrtrim: i dont think anyones personal experience needs to be rebutted unless youve shared that experience . so if these guys havent been in your shop useing your saw , i agree write your own review and relate your own experience . thats what makes the review system work ! sorry didnt mean to rant .

I agree mrtrim thanks for making that observation and bringing me to my senses. I did not foresee the ill will I have/may have caused and I aplogize to you Obi. I assure you my intentions were noble and not argumentitive, but we all know how relevant intentions are in the end.

I will not in the future post a contradictory review in someone's review. It was bad manners and bad judgement. I can see now that it can come across as implying the OP is somehow "incorrect", no mater how many disclaimer's one uses as a pretext.

Sorry fellas. Won't happen again.


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## Obi

When I first opened a cabinet shop (at a friend's insistance) I told him I can't because I don't have … the entire list of reasons as to why I couldn't due to lack of tools. He said "O.K." and we proceeded to look into the best tools for the cheapest price.

This saw was the first item purchased and that was based on 3 things
1) Limited Funds
2) Manufacturer's Specs
3) I didn't know about Grizzly at the time

I also purchased a dust collection system from Lowe's and I read every manual before i set the things up because every tool in the shop that *CAN* kill the user if used improperly.

I knew that the dust collection port was installed properly but I was not aware of the collection of dust at the user side of the saw due to the enormous lip inside.

As far as the review goes this is not opinion or hearsay this is actual fact.

It was the oldone that angered me, saying:
"I am wondering if Obi assembled the dust collection chut backwards" 
"I can certainly tell by your last comment that you have more money than commen sense !"

Apperantly this "Know-it-all" signed up and logged on just to give me a bad time, because his only two comments have been to bad mouth my review…

And I'm still getting famous

And it's spelled *"COMMON"* sense


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## TexasTimbers

I know what it feels like to discover a tool is lacking in performance when you had high, average, or even no expectations. Ain't good.


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## Obi

Wow, with this kind of attention, maybe I should write more reviews on all the tools I have that I don't like.


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## oldone

Obi- First of all I did not log on to this site to anger anyone, only to get some advice on the C10FL table saw, since it is probably the only saw that I will be able to afford and available without having to pay additional shipping charges.
Just to give you, the expert a little insight into what I have been using as a table saw for the past ten years is a SKIL, 10 inch bench-top table saw that I constructed a T square type rip-fence for, as the factory fence was a flimsy, thin aluminum thing. Now I would like to up-grade to something better, IN A PRICE RANGE THAT I CAN AFFORD and since I have managed to construct several pieces, such as a large modular entertainment center, china hutch, computer armoire, etc., using the Skil, I believe I can do as well or better with the C10FL, even if you don't like it. All of my tools are mostly bottom of the line Skil products, but I believe I have done quite well with them. 
And thank you for correcting my misspelling of the word COMMON sense, since it was a key stroke error and not a spelling error, but it's nice to see that you are also a certified spelling and grammer teacher as well as a saw expert ! In case you haven't noticed, you have now managed to make me mad as hell and I will no longer give you the attention that you seem to crave so much.


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## Obi

*Buy the saw*. It's not a bad saw, I just wouldn't recommend it as a cabinet saw for someone that uses their saw every day to make a living.

Upgrade the blad to a Freud 80 tooth, buy extra belts from Ace Hardware and be aware of the sawdust buildup inside the saw.

I'd recommend not installing the plastic shroud dust collector, but modify the base to let it fall to the floor and inclose the base with anything and attach your dust collection to the modified base.

And I apolgize for slinging dirt.


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## Woodbender

I discovered this site by doing a search on this particular saw, so it proves the "silver lining" theory is still alive and well. Great site! I had already read several reviews on it and pretty much decided to get one. As one of the posters above said, in the reviews I read also, there were a couple of mentions about the above-average dust collection.

After reading this "review" I am sure I am going to get one based on the comments of some of the more sane individuals who tried to offer a little balance. Anyone with an ego a mile has no credibility since they can't help but put themselves at the apex of everything they say and do. An unbiased review from Mr. Obi is impossible, because he sees the saw as having "let him down", or of course having "victimized" him, and must exact his revenge on the inanimate object AND the manufacturer.

It is but one of a myriad components, of a very complex condition known as narcissism. In this instance we can say it prevents the inflicted person from viewing or saying anything in an unbiased manner. Hence a "review" which goes out of it's way to demonize an object in lieu of simply listing what he perceives as the inadequate attributes of the design and engineering of the machine.

Obi, being a slave to his condition, doesn't just "warn" readers about what he sees as the weaknesses but he ORDERS YOU NOT TO BUY THIS SAW! DO NOT BUY THIS SAW! DO NOT BUY THIS SAW!! etc. because you are too stupid to make up your own mind based on simple facts. Narcissists have an extreme "Superiority Complex" and do not believe anyone can make simple decisions, based on elementary deduction.

this is also why he needs to use CAPITALS INCESSANTLY when wants to yell at you and "put you in your place". How dar you attempt further discussion on an issue which has been decided by Almighty Obi? And how dare anyone even consider he could have installed the dust collection part incorrectly (which is a virtual given)?

" . . . In case you haven't noticed, you have now managed to make me mad as hell and I 
will longer give you the attention that you seem to crave so much."

Sorry to inform you oldone, a narcissist is going to find attention somewhere, somehow.

And btw, MR. GRAMMAR, it's "blade" and not "blad", "enclose" not "inclose", and "apologize" not "aplogize". But don't allow your poor usage and spelling prevent you from throwing stones. It's always best that a glass house be shattered from the inside.

Good day!


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## Obi

So, now I'm insane and stupid. I was. I should have looked a little harder for a better saw.

And since my last post, i redesigned the dust collection. Removed the shroud completely, incased the bottom and attached the dust collection to the modified base. Works great.

I'm amazed. If someone points out design flaws, and another buys the item in spite of the warnings, who then is then is the stupid one?


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## oxillini

Just a note for those who may have come across this review when searching or contemplating purchasing this saw. The dust collection has been redesigned. The port is now centered and exits downward, vertically. All directions come to the port in a nice, parabolic shape. I just put this saw together last weekend and noted that the collection is different from the display at my local Lowe's. I had thought I would need a 2" to 3" adapter for my collection hose based upon the display, but this new panel uses 3".

The motor is still being claimed at 3HP, but is clearly marked as 15A @ 115VAC. Assuming an efficiency in the 85% range, this is close to a 2HP motor. Still good, but certainly not the 3HP monster listed on product literature.

Setup was simple and painless and the saw is running smoothly.

I do have a bit of a beef with the blade guard. I got rid of an early 80's Craftsman where the guard attached at the rear of the saw with wingnuts. Perhaps this is no longer considered the norm, nor even acceptable, but this guard attaches with hex head bolts directly behind the blade. Removal/reinstallation is a real pain.


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## Obi

All-in-all, the saw isn't really a bad saw, just had a few design flaws and if they've changed the dustcollection port so that the saw dust doesn't collect on the sides and continue to pile up that was half of my complaint. The only other thing I didnt like was the gear driven angle adjustment.

They should really make the angle adjustment direct drive instead of a plastic gear.


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## oxillini

I agree on the bevel adjustment note. When you look at the saw internals, the handle would have been at the front of the left side anyway. Putting the knob on the front gains nothing and adds an unnecessary change of direction.

This saw was available with a $100 gift card and 15% off. At just over $400, this is a good saw. Is it a production grade cabinet saw? No, but that's not really the market it is playing in.


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## madbaird

I too bought this saw a couple of years ago. Some things to add is it is a left tilt saw which has left me changing stuff around to use on my saw. My dial dado set and Grizzly tennon sled. I have modified the access door on a hinge and a twist lock. I did this to help removing the build up of dust in many of the corners.

Anybody have any ideas on how to make a good zero clearence insert for this? Funky design and tried with some hardwood, but the edges were to thin and broke.

When I can afford it, I will be replacing this saw with something better.

Hitachi makes a great product (I too have two routers, cordless impact drill and several other hand tools) they just failed to meet my expectations on this one.

Just my two cents. -Dave


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## marcb

madbaird brings up a pretty big negative if you ask me. Does it have a bad throat design? My old little saw had a poor design making zero clearance next to impossible, bad bad bad.

Personally I sit and wait until I can find the oldest tool I can find and buy that one, never been let down!


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## Weekend_Carpenter

I just bought this saw ($499 - 15%(Promo) - 10% (coupon) -$100 (gift card thru MIR), and I love it. This is my second table saw, and I am far from a professional woodworker (that is why I bought a $500 TS , and not a $1000+ Jet table saw). I have used it with pine and cedar in the month that I have had it. It cut great through both, even when using the dado blade. This saw is not perfect, but it is a lot better than the others in the same price range. Here are the pros, and cons (and no I don't work for hitachi… lol)

*Cons*
*The Manual sucks *(period). But seriously the manual takes all the fun out of the experience anyways… 
*The legs are flimsy… *I bought $20 worth of 1/8" angle iron and some bolts from lowes to fix this… (hasn't been a big enough deal to fix yet)
*The motor is not really 3HP all the time*, as stated before that is peak… move on…
*The Blade Adjustment Lock is not the greatest*, even if you "Lock" the angle and depth, you can can still move the dials with your hands and a little bit of force…

*Pros*
For the weekender this saw has a *great fence system* out of the box once setup…
*Dust collection works fantastic* on this saw, and even better with a dust collecter (I have a delta that works great)
*The saw is really quiet*…. just a high whisper…
*The saw has wheels standard*, no mobile base accessories kit to buy…
*Most of the parts are cast iron *(except for the sheet metal base)
*The on/off switch is also a bump switch *that you can turn off with your knee…
*It has a nice holder on the side for the fence system…* not a biggie, but still shows that thought was put in…

All in all, if you can assemble things without having to follow the directions religiously, and don't mind spending $20 (or less) to reinforce the legs, it's a great table saw! I bought this after seeing many positive reviews, and using the hitachi C12LSH mitre saw that I have owned for over 2 years now. I have been very happy with these two hitachi products, however I have looked at other brands for other types of tools, such as dewault, bostitch, porter cable, delta, craftsmen, kreg, etc.


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## yrob

Are the trunions attached to the cabinet or to the table top?


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## Obi

there are no trunions …


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## yrob

How is the blade assembly attached to the saw then ? How easy is it to align the blade parralel to the miter ?

I have a craftsman contractor saw and its a pain. Its attached to the top and you have to loosen screws and wack the assembly with a mallet to get it aligned in contrast to cabinet saws where you have the trunions attached to the cabinet making alignment a simple matter of loosening the table bolts and aligning it to the blade.

Some hybrid saws apparently have this feature too. This saw is not one of them then?


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## Weekend_Carpenter

There are no trunions that I know of… I have not taken my saw that far apart, but blade is square to the top, and fence system…

You might take a look at the manual… on page 29…

http://www.hitachipowertools.com/product/files/saws/table_saws/C10FL_OM.pdf

Hope that helps you out…


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## jnam

I bought this TS about 8 months ago and have had nothing but problems. It spent about 5 weeks at a service center due to a terrible rattle and shaking while running and as it came to a stop. Even after the servicing it still is not the whisper running saw I expected. Now I have noticed that the blade is not parallel to the miter guage slot. It is between 1/16 and 3/32 difference between the front of the blade and the back of the blade in reference to the guage slot. Enough of a difference to recut the work piece as it passes the back side of the blade when cutting with the fence.

This brings me to my next question: Has anyone had this sort of problem with this saw or does anyone know how to adjust the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot?

I dont mind getting inside the blade assembly as long as I know what to do but the manual has nothing concerning the adjustment to the blade with relation to the mitre slot.

Thanks for any advice.


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## jeff_wenz

jnam,

The blade assembly can be adjusted if it is not parallel to the miter slot by removing the panel opposite the woodworker if he were operating the saw (6 Phillips head screws). After removing the panel, you will have access to the inner workings of the saw. There are 4 hex head bolts (8mm) that bolt the blade assembly to the underside of the table. Mine were pretty snug, so I had to use a ratchet with a 8mm hex socket to loosen them. I thought there was enough play with just loosening the 2 bolts closest to the opening, but I ended up having to loosen all 4. To exert enough sideways force while tightening, I used a clamp to keep the blade assembly square while re-tightening the bolts.


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## 8iowa

After carefully looking at the table saws in Lowe's tool area I'm convinced that the "big box" retailers are not the best place to shop for stationary power tools. The tools I have seen there are truly an example of "you get what you pay for".

That being said, the advertised amperage rating is not a good way to judge the power of a motor, nor are peak HP ratings. This is often an indication that the tool is powered by a universal type electric motor, which is definitely inferior to the induction type electric motor for stationary tools. In a nutshell, there are no standards for universal motors, so the manufacturers tend to claim anything they want to. This type of motor has brushes, operates at very high speed, (frequently above 10,000 rpm), has a high noise level, and has a relatively short life.

Induction motors are standardized by NEMA. The HP, frame size, speed, and full load amperage is shown on the nameplate. The HP rating of an induction motor is determined on a dynamometer,with the temperature rise stabilized over a period of time. The temperature must stay within the limits of the class of insulation used in the motor (usually class "B" insulation at a temperature rise of 55 degrees C). The speed-torque curve of an induction motor is very flat. It can be loaded beyond it's full load torque rating for brief periods with only a slight drop in speed.

When shopping for a table saw or any other type of stationary power tool, at a minimum, you should look for an induction motor.


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## Obi

sad part is that none of my friends have a better saw.


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## ChicagoGlen

Just signed up and read the comments. I have had this tool for a little over two years. I have had one part break. The blade locking mechanism does not lock the balde for changing blades so I have to use a clamp for this. Also, unless someone can point me in the right direction I cannot find any zero clearance inserts for this saw. I have never used another table saw but I believe the inserts are thicker on other saws and you can make your own. Since the plate is so thin onm the Hitachi I am not sure if it is safe to do so.

Other than this I can't really complain about the saw. I have made some nice hard wood mission style furniture with it an I have been very happy except for the lack of accessories.

(Zero Clearance inserts, Outfeed Table, etc)

Does anyone know if there cabinet version of this saw's cast iron wings will fit the C10FL or if a Beis fence will fit it?

Thanks,

Glen


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## donald

I agree the Dust collection is not what you would think it should be so like Obi, I trashed the stock collection "Tray" and rebuild it with a 4" duct. I also ditched the fence for a Biesmeyer B30. The stock casters were replaced with a Heavier set from WoodCraft. I built a new extension table to the right and that is about it. I use mine about 3~4 days a week and cut everything from pine to Brazilian Cherry without issue. Great saw for the beginner to intermediate woodworker.


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## dofitch

I just bought the saw yesterday for $385. My cabinet doesn't look anything like the one on obi's saw. I'm hoping they read his review and I got the new and improved model. I'll let y'all know what I think after I put it together and run some wood through it.


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## delta_chris

Hey folks. I just got this saw last Sunday which like Hal this particular saw must have been redesigned with improvements such as the dust collection and that front gear and handle for the tilt.
Hal its a pretty descent saw for its price. And guys with respect to all of you, this saw is now very much capable of building cabinets. I've actually taken calipers to my pieces and and are straight as could be. The one thing i explain to everyone is the quality of the blade of any cutting tool means the world. I find the freud diablo blades are the way to go for any saw. And of course a good resin removal solution for the blade is always a plus. I have actually had a diablo on a $100 delta shopmaster bench ts which the blade was half the cost but made all the world of difference. I actually used the blade for almost a year before resharpening it Now with this particular saw i have started some of my newest work and cant complain , although a saw is only as good as its blade.


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## Obi

All in all it isn't a bad saw, just had some serious design flaws. If they've been corrected then dollar for dollar it's a good saw.


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## Woodchuck1957

For that kind of money you really can't expect much in a new saw. And it's not really the blade that makes a saw, a good fence is higher on the list.


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## delta_chris

Yes woodchuck you are right as far as the accuracy but as far as material thickness and density the blade is of utmost importance when considering the life of the motor and how much power you actually need to do the job. I just got through cutting some purpleheart blanks to turn on my lathe and it is harder, heavier, and more dense than oak. And when i wrote my last post that is what i was considering but but next to a hich quality fence you cant go wrong. Quality and ease of cut are the two most important things for me. And obi reguardless of how myself or anyone else may feel about your posts earlier in this review, the point must have gotten across to hitachi because by the discription of your saw compared to mine which are the same model they did improve the overall design. Obi, with all due respect i didnt care too much for some of your posts as well as others but the main thing is we can all come to an agreement that the bad design was considered and changed, and i can tell that you still feel the same about your saw but your considerations have changed some which does show that you do have open thoughts. Now on a different note, i am a big delta tool fan but the reason i chose this saw over the delta is price and that you have to buy the fence seperate and th motor is outside of the housing which causes a problem for me because of space, and i have 2 kids and both of them are wanting to learn woodworking so not having the exposed belt is one less danger this saw imposes on my kids being around me. Now i know i lot of you might think that kids should not be around equipment like this but my dad taught me respect for machinery and im doing the saw with my kids which they are catching on quickly. 
You all have a good day.


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## Woodchuck1957

Chris, ofcourse you can buy whatever you want, for whatever reason, but the complaint I hear occassionally about the motor hanging out the back on Contractor's saws and taking up more shop space I think is pretty weak, In most cases people have outfeed tables. Dust collection is another weak complaint I hear occassionally, it can be done very effectively, and I can prove it.


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## Obi

Funny thing … After all my bitching and moaning, I like the saw. Always did, til it caught fire due to a design flaw.

There might be one or two saws in the $500.00 range that are close. 1 is the rigid and I'm sure Griz has a comparable saw. I bought what I bought due to lack of information. Had I known that Grizzly was out there, I would have spent $200 more and got a much better saw.


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## Woodchuck1957

A plastic gear that tilts the blade isn't something I be too impressed with. And for $200 you could of had a Delta Contractor's saw with alot better fence. Grizzly is ok if you live close enough to one of their showrooms that you don't have to pay for shipping. By the time I pay for shipping I could just as well by a Delta locally and not have to deal with the cost or hassle of shiping issues, and I can get immediate parts and suport the same day in most cases.


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## knotscott

I appreciate your candid review. Your comments reflect my overall impression of the saw. I'm sure it cuts just fine, but there are several other excellent choices in the same price range, and I find that the Hitachi has very few advantages over it's competitors.


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## Blackie_

I just recently joined LJ and just ran across this thread so this post is for the most part now insignificant as I think this model is discontinued, actually it appears that Hitachi has stopped making table saws all together but none the less I've owned this saw now going on 6 years and it's always done everything I've needed it to, I am by far an expert as I had upgraded from a small bench top saw. I was too a bit confused as to the orientation front and rear so I took some pictures showing how I have it configured. 








If you are standing at the controls of the saw then that's the front of the saw in my eyes









Rear view or back side of the saw looking at the bottom and dust port









Dust hose connected









After several many cuts with dust collection on, dust is left under the gears that obi was talking about.

Was mentioned by the originator it was oak that caused the fire, if to big or deep of cuts are taken at one time out of oak it can cause the blade to get hot thus causing a fire also a duel blade.


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## mosco

I too own this saw 
I considerate it an above average contractors saw for the money
I upgraded the fence & the mitre gauge
As far as the dust collection issues I regularly use my air compressor to clean out saw dust while the dust collector is running. Is that something I should have to do? maybe not but it takes me about 60 seconds to clean out my saw btw I have the newer dust port which allows most of the dust to fall-out on its own


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## 9FINGERTIM

I can get confused enough without having confusing instuctions, its very dangerous to put non understandable directions or diagrams in pieces of equipment that are capable of killing or injuring people who cant figure out exactly what they mean . some times the drawing looks as if they have been done by someone who isnt too talented and the written instructions come in 7 different languages and the english one seems to be the shortest,sometimes they are r giving you instructions for more than one model of the same product "if you have the 33b put the belt on the right side of the fartpump ,if you have model34a you dont have a fartpump, but we're not going to tell you which model you may have! i think anyone selling a product in this country should be held responsible for any accident that occurs with any piece of equipment that caused injury do to confusing assembly directions also some products come with entirely to much assembly requiired
.


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## cbfodalo

I picked up the C10fl on Craigslist a couple weeks ago for $100. it was missing one of the rear fence rails, and some bolts. I put about $60 into it with the rear rail, and a vlink belt. I use this saw as a jobsite saw when I am on large trim jobs, jobs where I will be there for a few weeks. I ripped 3/16" off the back off some 5/4 v 4 cypress casing, enough for 100 windows and 35 doors in the past 2 weeks. I worked this saw pretty hard. upon first setting it up for the rip, I popped the breaker pretty frequently. I found the saw would get hot pretty fast, so I searched the forums and came up with my own take; 
I have no problem with the fence, or the steel extension wings, in fact I wish this thing was a little lighter, not heavier…. the fence took some tweaking, but it is now dialed in, and cuts perfect. The dust collection is a joke, but its just not funny. I wonder if Hitachi or whoever designed this thing actually cut anything with it…. . its, not 3hp, impossible with motor, but 2hp is what my math comes up with and that's enough. OK, so I addressed the dust collection and heat with a few different attempts. First, I cut a hole on the back of the saw, about 4" down and 4" from the right and glued a 2.5" shop vac attachment in the hole. I connect the exhaust from my 11amp shop vac to this port, forcing air into cabinet. I also sealed all other seams in cabinet with metal tape, so I am trying to manage and control airflow to try to get the sawdust out while cooling saw. this works,, in about 4 hours of ripping I dumped 14 gal shop vac three times. I added another 2.5" shop vac port to the left side right in the middle of the motor bump out. I first tried to use another shoc vac to force air over motor and pressurize cabinet, dust collection improved, but saw got hotter, I found that the tefc motor blows from the inside of cabinet toward the metal side wall, and somehow by blowing air into this port the saw got hotter then without the additional air, so next I pulled air from this port as well as the built in dust port. I get less efficient dust collection this way, but the saw runs all day without overheating. so right now, the saw runs pretty well with one shop vac, sucking out of the built in dust port, and the return air blowing into the first port on the back of the size. when I am planning to rip for a few hours, I hook up another vac, and suck out of the motor port. My next plan is to rebuild base by removing dust pan, building a new one lower, and adding sturdier casters. I will not be using this saw in a shop, so everything I do I have to think about mobility. Anybody build a new base for this saw. 
Hey btw, Lowes has a sweet looking Delta saw for $599…. delta #36-725.


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## Obi

the new saw. Gimme a few months and I'll post a review on this.


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## jonathanb

hitachi table saw, i do not have to used this brand anymore…
------------------
JET 708315BTC JBTS-10BT-3 15 Amp Benchtop Table Saw


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## 4x4moses

I know this is an old thread, but I want to put my two-cents in, too. I bought a used C10FL, and I am quite pleased with it. I mean no criticism of Obi's opinion, but there are at least two points I'd like to address. First, the 3HP is PEAK - as pointed out by others (and Obi). Second, the C10FL is NOT A CABINET SAW! The C10FL is a home-owner/DIYer quality saw. It's not a cheap bench saw, but it's also not a high-dollar cabinet saw. Heck, it's not even comparable to a top-of-the-line contractor saw. To buy a $400.00 saw, and expect it to operate and perform like a Grizzly/Jet/Powermatic is unrealistic. I like my Hitachi saw - especially in comparison to the anemic Delta TS200LS and Rockwell Homecraft 34-660 that I previously used.


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## keithchen

Many discussion about this saw. Although this saw have not sold long times, still many people looking for. So I searching and compile reviews about the saw here http://woodworkingtoolkit.com/hitachi-c10fl/
If you have time to read, please leave your comments.
Thanks!


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