# Stacking 1/4" MD5 Panels for Cabinet Doors



## Beems (Sep 7, 2015)

I'm looking for an inexpensive method to make low-profile doors for shop cabinets. I was going to use 1/2" MDF and just cut the panels to size, but I think they might stick out farther than I'd like. My other option is to use two 1/4" MDF Panels, one overlapping the opening while the attached smaller one fits inside the opening. I think a single 1/4" panel is too flimsy, but I'm "guessing" that two 1/4" panels will be sturdier. Here's an illustration I did to make it clearer:










1) Is the illustration shown really going to make the door less flimsy
2) How do I even attach the two panels together? Is glue strong enough?
3) Is this even the appropriate forum section?

Thanks in advance,
Beems


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

How about using 1/2" mdf and cutting a rabbet around the perimeter. This would give you the same effect without the need to glue up all of the panels.


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## Beems (Sep 7, 2015)

Sorry, I intended to state that I don't own a router so that method, while ideal, isn't possible without that investment. If all else fails, I guess I'll go splurge on a router.


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

In that case you can glue them up to get the desired effect. You will need mark where the smaller panel will be on the larger one because the mdf will tend to slide around in the glue when the clamping force is applied. You will also need to use cauls to apply pressure as evenly as possible over the entire surface. That can be tricky with larger panels. The panels will need to be glued flat, if they are unflat when glued they will stay that way after the glue cures.

Do you own or have access to a table saw? If so you could make the rabbets by running them over the saw, adjusting the fence and repeat until the desired rabbet width is achieved.

If your budget will support the purchase and you have more projects planned down the road then a router can be very handy. If this is a one time build I would save the money and glue them.

The use of a single 1/4 sheet will not work. The screws holding the hinge will not have enough material to hold. Mdf is not known for it's ability to hold fasteners.


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

> The use of a single 1/4 sheet will not work. The screws holding the hinge will not have enough material to hold. Mdf is not known for it s ability to hold fasteners.
> 
> - joey502


+1, MDF won't hold screws especially in a hinge situation at 1/4" thickness, Plywood would be better, but you'll see warping over time without a frame to contain the panel


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

If you can swing it, splurge and get the router. You don't need to break the bank. I have Bosch routers, but those Dewalt mid-size (not trim, not full size) would be my choice if I needed a new one (they weren't available at the time I purchased). Routers are amazingly versatile, and you'll probably find a use for them on future projects (molding details, mortise/tenon, rabbets, dados, etc). Plus, it'll save you the effort of getting your 1/4" panels perfectly lined up and glued.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

What kind of hinges are you going to use? As others pointed out, you are going to run into trouble if you screw the hinges into only 1/4" of MDF.

Face gluing MDF works just fine. I've done it for several table tops and fences. Just be sure to use cauls to distribute the pressure like joey said.


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

+1 to Ed - most any router you can swing that will fit a 1/2" shank won't be wasted money, if you get hooked on the hobby you'll find that the router is one of those tools that it's nice to have a couple, I've got 3, and am looking for a D handle


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

Table saws can rabbet, too…


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## RichardHillius (Oct 19, 2013)

The most difficult part I see to what you are describing is going to be aligning the two panels while the glue dries. My experience with glueing two flat surfaces to each other is that they are really difficult to get aligned just right and usually you just oversize them and cut them to final dimension after the glue dries. You are going to need to align the smaller panel near perfect or it won't fit in the frame right.

It's not the fastest way to do this but I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work assuming you can figure out how to align the panels. You might need a alignment frame during glue up to get the panels lined up than nail them together until the glue dries.


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## Beems (Sep 7, 2015)

Thanks for all the advice. After reading all the comments here, I think I'll just buy a router. I found a Hitachi with a 5-year warranty for $175 (I have a bunch of other Hitachi tools and they've been great, and I can't pass up a 5-year warranty). If I only ever end up using it on these cabinet doors, it was an expensive tool. However, now that I'll own one I'm sure I'll be able to find other projects to use it on.


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

> Thanks for all the advice. After reading all the comments here, I think I ll just buy a router. I found a Hitachi with a 5-year warranty for $175 (I have a bunch of other Hitachi tools and they ve been great, and I can t pass up a 5-year warranty). If I only ever end up using it on these cabinet doors, it was an expensive tool. However, now that I ll own one I m sure I ll be able to find other projects to use it on.
> 
> - Beems


I think you are making a good choice.


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

Agreed, my 1st router came after my screw gun and my circular saw, there are loads of tasks you can do with it that will draw you further into wood working.

You don't list your location, nor the model of the router, I'm hoping you got the 2 base kit for for $175, that would be a decent deal! Next step would be to start looking at some router table types, the table based router really expands the capabilities, oh and check MLCS some of the basic kits are good to get to get you started, I think they have a 10 pc set that was a good deal and you wouldn't get stuck buying bits you wouldn't use.


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