# Anyone spraying waterbased poly



## dryhter (Jul 14, 2008)

Looking for some feed back on spraying minwax water based poly. is it possible, seems like it should be but what are the the results?


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

I don't have a sprayer, but I can't see any potential problems with spraying it. I do use the spray cans of Minwax WB poly for most of my projects.


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## redalan (Jul 22, 2009)

thin even coats it will run in a sec. gravity feed sprayer work best 4 me


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## North40 (Oct 17, 2007)

I've sprayed it, and it does okay. It dries faster than an oil-based poly, and doesnt have the honey color that you get from most oil-based poly. The water can soak into the wood a bit which can raise the grain.


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## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

This interests me too. Anybody sprayed with a true HVLP system?


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

I've sprayed it with siphon, gravity feed and even a Wagner power sprayer (Not such great results with this one). As mentioned, really light coats because it runs quickly.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

dumb the minwax and get some general finished high performance water based poly. It works much better and isn't watered down like the minwax. sprays beautifully


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

I have some limited experience with HVLP spraying water base poly. It works well if the ambient temperature is not to high. If it is to warm the spray drys to fast and gets a "orange peel" finish. I would say somewhere around 60-70 degrees would be best.


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## BlankMan (Mar 21, 2009)

60-70 degrees. Then my workshop would be perfect during the winter if I don't fire up my wood stove. I'll have to give it a try.


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## Ger21 (Oct 29, 2009)

I've sprayed over 15 gallons of Minwax water based through an old Wagner Finecoat cheap HVLP. On vertical surfaces, it will run very easily, so light coats are a must. It's a bit tricky to get a wet enough coat without running, but can be done with a little practice. Raising the grain isn't a problem for me. Sanding after the first coats knocks off any raised grain, and I can sometimes get away with only two coats. I also spray it over water soluble aniline dyes. The dyes really raise the grain, but again, sanding the first coat of poly removes the raised grain, and the second coat goes on perfect. For flat horizontal panels, you can lay a very heavy final coat for the second coat and get a really nice finish.

If you look at my kitchen pics in my projects, it was all sprayed with the Minwax.

The downside is the cost, at about $40/gallon. For my next project, I'm going to try the Hydrocote Resisthane from Highland Hardware. It go great reviews in a comparison test I saw a while back, and it's 25% cheaper.


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## TheHarr (Sep 16, 2008)

I've been spraying wb finishes with a cheap HVLP gun for several years. The results has brought my finishing up to a professional level. These days, I would be hard pressed to go back to using a brush. First, I am not a fan of minwax wb finishes. Check out Target Coatings for wb finishes. The BIG TRICK is to learn how to adjust your gun. That takes time and expierence. Read up on it. Second, I very rarely have had a run spraying vertical surfices. If you get a run, just immediately whipe it off and spray over the spot. Spraying wb finishes is very forgiving, you will enjoy the expierence and will be impressed with the results.

Keep making those wood chips.


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## DaneJ (Aug 13, 2009)

I have sprayed Minwax, Olympic and General Finishes. All pose similar problems. None take kindly to thinning. All of them will run easily on vertical surfaces. If you have ever sprayed clear lacquer it is very similar… you need to wet-out the surface enough to flow and prevent orange peel. Have plenty of light and watch the surface from an angle and watch the 'wave' as you spray, this also prevents overlapping too much.

For equipment I use Devilbiss "conversion" gravity feed guns, the "Finishline" model plenty good enough. Get a regulator/gauge at the gun because the slightest pressure variation can have quite an effect on WB finishes. I use the DeKupps disposable cup system, cleanup is a breeze but more important they will *never* drip because they are not vented and you can even spray sideways or even upside-down.

BTW-just because it is WB does not mean that it is perfectly safe, wear a respirator !!!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I've sprayed Polycrlicis it sprays fine (if you know how to spray) I wipe the wood down with water ,let it dry and then lightly sand with 150 use a tack rag spray let dry 2 hours, a very quick sand with 180 and shoot again. If happy let it be if not let dry 2hours and use 180 once more. Depending on wood 2 coats usually works fine.


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## EaglewoodsPres (Mar 9, 2008)

I have tried to spray WB products, with some moderate success. I only do it now when there is onsite work to be done where the customer is opposed to the lacquer fumes. Thinning is very hard to accomplish correctly. The molecules that make up water borne finishes are thicker thus resulting in the need for a bigger tip. Too much thinning and the finish will fish eye on you. Raising the grain is not too big an issue with a knock down sanding after your first coat as usual. One big problem I do run into is the fact that the finish dries on the spray tip quickly. This can result in an improper fan pattern. You need to keep your spray tip clean at all times. Light coats are a must as the finish will run, especially when spraying vertical surfaces. One thing to keep in mind is that, unlike lacquers, which emulsify the undercoat and combine to make one thick layer, waterborne finishes add succesive seperate layers. I would recommend nothing less than 3 coats when using WB. Hope all the tips her help. I myself have choosen to stay in the stone age and stick with the lacquers. I know that at some point, the laws will require that everyone spray low VOC finishes. But until that happens, my thought is if it isn't broken, don't fix it. As in the case of cessna pilot, I too am a very satisfied ML Cambell customer. It is a very durable product that is extremely versatile. I do know that they have their own line of waterborne products on the market. My rep has tried to get me to try it but right now I just don't need to take the time with the learning curve.


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## dryhter (Jul 14, 2008)

Thanks to all who replied, 
As I suspected vertical surfaces are/could be a problem.I will check out the M.L.Campbell line.The advice and suggestions are all appreciated.


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## bigpops0259 (Jan 15, 2007)

I've tried to spray several poly's. Didn't like the results to much fine sanding to finish. Started using wood lacquers like that finish the best dries fast, great results, with little sanding to finish. Sherman Williams has several different glosses. A little pricey but worth it. I think, but who I'm I.


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## mynoblebear (Nov 22, 2009)

One trick to vertical surfaces is the same as when you have a bit to much swett draining from your pores. Turn some fans on. Lots of air movement will evaporate the water faster. You must have a way for the moisture to leave the spray room also otherwise with the heat that is also recommended you will be in the tropics and enjoying the humidity. You name the product and I have sprayed it and lots of it and yes that means I have broke the rules on the bucket. If you get a run wait until all the area around the run is well on its way to dry and finger off the run. This will save you some time on the next go. Do not get greedy with your coats. Sometimes faster is not faster.


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