# What else do I need to spray laquer?



## Illinoiswoodworker (Mar 24, 2013)

Hello,

As I am getting my wood shop going and get one thing figured out, another one its ugly head.

As I'm starting to make higher quality furniture and cabinets I want to start spraying my finishes.

I am making the trim for my windows, doors and floor trim.

I have a DeVilbiss gravity sprayer, Mdl # GFC-616-43FW with a 1.6 tip.

I will be spraying ML Campbells, MagnaMax Pre catalyzed lacquer.

I was told by the supplier that I will need a 2.0 to 2.2 tip. Is that correct? How do I figure how much reducer to use?

I will be contacting ML Campbell, but I hoped I could get some help from the kind people on this forum.

Thanks a lot.


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## huff (May 28, 2009)

Illinioswoodworker,

I've sprayed lacquer for years and have used the ML Campbells products for probably the past 10 to 12 years (I really like their products).

I've sprayed with both conventional sprayers and now with an HVLP system. For spraying lacquer, I've always used a 1.5 tip and used a 2.0 tip when I was spraying paint.

As far as thinning the lacquer, it will tell you on the can that you can spray straight from the can, but I always liked to thin mine a little (about 10%), especially if the weather is cooler. You can purchase a viscosity cup and actually measure to get the recommended flow rate as specified by the manufacturer.

Make sure you have good ventilation when you are spraying

Make sure no flames

Make sure you have a good resperator ( one designed for spraying not for dust).

You will probably want to build yourself some sort of spray booth (helps control overspray and ventilation).

Personally, I like their Satin 35 for most of my finishes, but for some of my furniture pieces I like to use the dull rub 15 sheen ( it really gives a hand rubbed look to the finish).

Feel free to ask any questions.


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## Maggiepic (Aug 26, 2010)

I do the same as huff. I use a 1.3 or 1.5 In my CAT compliant gravity feed. I thin with a medium dry lacquer thinner. I use the Magna-Lac, the only thing available in my area.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Explosion proof lighting and exhaust fan would be at the top of my list in addition to the respirator already mentioned.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I don't mean to spoil your fun if you really want to use that sprayer by all means do, but take the work outside and use a respirator. Also you might consider Krylon in a can, much easier, not very expensive and does an excellent job for this type of application. 
Save the sprayer for water base applications.


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## Airspeed (Mar 11, 2013)

I spray everything, I forgot how to use a paintbrush. I installed a simple box fan in the exterior wall of my basement shop with a door that opens. I use a Sharpe Finex gun, it's a middle of the road gun but the best I've owned. The most important tool you will need is a compressor with the most cfm you can get, massive pressure isn't important, I use only 20 psi at my gun. I use a gun mounted regulator, not a air control but an actual regulator. I usually use acetone with lacquer unless I want a really glossy finish, it hardens up very fast with acetone.


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## Illinoiswoodworker (Mar 24, 2013)

Thanks for the responses…..
I just heard back from ML Campbell, they recommend a 1.4 to 1.6 for MagnaMax. So I should be good to go with my 1.6. I'm usually not that lucky. I will try to spray this weekend. I will pick up some supplies and then practice on some 2×4s that I have laying around.

Huff, ya, ML Campbell products are very durable. I have a friend that makes custom cabinets. He uses ML Campbell product exclusively. If these products are good enough for someone who has been making custom cabinets for 40 years, they are good enough for me.

I have a respirator and will have a temporary spray booth constructed when I spray this time but I will be building a dedicated booth this summer.

Sorry I didn't reply back sooner but after I got home from work I spent a couple hours painting a guest bedroom.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I have been spraying for 40 years and if you want to be a pro and do pro work IMO spraying is the only way to go. I agree with the above statements about goo ventilation (the reason I use water borne material) Don't forget about a good moisture trap to keep water and oil out of your material. Long term it would be best to have a spray booth but their very costly. Many shops get by with an area in their shop that can by and cleaned up the best plus having reasonable dust control .As others have mentioned lacquers and their thinners are very flammable, so make sure there are not sources of flames,sparks etc such as pilot lights, electric motors that spark,and no one that's anywhere near smoking. To get your spraying technique down pat you can practice with water on cardboard or a piece of plywood.


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