# Roubo Cabinet



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Why and What?*

Twenty-five months ago I built my Roubo workbench based on plans in C. Schwarz' first Workbenches book. I read the cautions to keep the underside of the benchtop clear of anything that would impede clamping, protruding holdfasts, etc. and finished the base with a simple shelf. I did add a small, single drawer to the underside about six months later, based on examples in Roubo illustrations, but nothing else.

About a year ago I was fortunate to come across a traditional cabinetmaker's workbench that came out of an organ factory nearby. It has a chest of drawers underneath (four wide drawers and a hinged cubby on its right side) that I use for all the things that don't fit in the Roubo's small drawer (and that's lots of my most commonly used hand tools). When I picked up the Stanley SW 750 set my problem came to a head - where to put my now complete chisel sets (Everlastings, SW 750 Re-Issues, cats and dogs, etc.)? A wall / bench rack or in a drawer? I think sometimes that a couple of low-profile drawers at the bottom of the Roubo would be a very good thing, because what's down there now isn't used at all or simply gets covered in dust and shavings. I do not want to fill the space with a cabinet; I don't work that way and don't want a kitchen cabinet with a thick top. I use my hold fasts and use the bench as a total clamping tool, so the bottom has to stay essentially clear. Isn't there middle ground here? Maybe something like this?










It'll be an all-drawer cabinet, unless the right side is a door, like what's in the traditional bench cabinet. But a door wouldn't work in the Roubo because there is a sliding deadman on the underside of the bench that would hinder the door's ability to be used freely. But the thought is my #45 (and others) need a home / large drawer rather than the far away shelf it's sitting on now.

Sounds like I have a project on my hands.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Why and What?*
> 
> Twenty-five months ago I built my Roubo workbench based on plans in C. Schwarz' first Workbenches book. I read the cautions to keep the underside of the benchtop clear of anything that would impede clamping, protruding holdfasts, etc. and finished the base with a simple shelf. I did add a small, single drawer to the underside about six months later, based on examples in Roubo illustrations, but nothing else.
> 
> ...


I'm currently building a small shaker-type bench with underside drawers and a cabinet. I need the additional storage, more than I need additional clamping options. Plus, since its a small bench, the cabinetry and its contents add much needed mass.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Why and What?*
> 
> Twenty-five months ago I built my Roubo workbench based on plans in C. Schwarz' first Workbenches book. I read the cautions to keep the underside of the benchtop clear of anything that would impede clamping, protruding holdfasts, etc. and finished the base with a simple shelf. I did add a small, single drawer to the underside about six months later, based on examples in Roubo illustrations, but nothing else.
> 
> ...


@Tedstor - I understand completely the benefits of storage and mass - this should deliver both but with the clearance I need between benchtop and cabinet so holdfasts work without issue. This build, fully loaded, will likely add well over a hundred pounds to the bench and I like that. And you're not blogging your bench build yet? I'll follow along if you do… 

Oh, and I love the vintage Craftsman avitar!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Why and What?*
> 
> Twenty-five months ago I built my Roubo workbench based on plans in C. Schwarz' first Workbenches book. I read the cautions to keep the underside of the benchtop clear of anything that would impede clamping, protruding holdfasts, etc. and finished the base with a simple shelf. I did add a small, single drawer to the underside about six months later, based on examples in Roubo illustrations, but nothing else.
> 
> ...


as I understood then was the benchplanes stored on the shelf under the benches 
and didn´t a Rubobench have a big shelf 

but I wuold make a wallcabinet to store you tools in and hang it very near or above the bench

Dennis


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Why and What?*
> 
> Twenty-five months ago I built my Roubo workbench based on plans in C. Schwarz' first Workbenches book. I read the cautions to keep the underside of the benchtop clear of anything that would impede clamping, protruding holdfasts, etc. and finished the base with a simple shelf. I did add a small, single drawer to the underside about six months later, based on examples in Roubo illustrations, but nothing else.
> 
> ...


@Dennis - For awhile I had bench planes under the bench, but there was just too much dust / debris to leave them there. Take a look at my shop pics and you'll see where the planes live now; not enclosed, but in a wall-hung cabinet right next to the bench where I can reach them. The Roubo cabinet is for chisels and small hand tools; it should allow for very usable space for some tools on top, while projects are in-work (they'll be easier to reach than if they were at the bottom of the bench) but I don't plan on using it that way for now.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Why and What?*
> 
> Twenty-five months ago I built my Roubo workbench based on plans in C. Schwarz' first Workbenches book. I read the cautions to keep the underside of the benchtop clear of anything that would impede clamping, protruding holdfasts, etc. and finished the base with a simple shelf. I did add a small, single drawer to the underside about six months later, based on examples in Roubo illustrations, but nothing else.
> 
> ...


do you still have the old bench 

I like your corner left to the window but that wuold be the place to sneak in the wallhunged toolcabinet 
I know I am bad …lol but consider a big turn around redoooo of the shop org.
I like your plane till though 

take care
Dennis


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Why and What?*
> 
> Twenty-five months ago I built my Roubo workbench based on plans in C. Schwarz' first Workbenches book. I read the cautions to keep the underside of the benchtop clear of anything that would impede clamping, protruding holdfasts, etc. and finished the base with a simple shelf. I did add a small, single drawer to the underside about six months later, based on examples in Roubo illustrations, but nothing else.
> 
> ...


I think there is nothing in the shop that is more important to customize to your particular needs than the workbench. Swartz says keep the underside clear. Fine. But THOUSANDS of woodworkers like to have drawers and cabinets under there and it works great for them. How can both be correct?

Simple. Swartz uses lots of long holdfasts and large jawed wooden clamps. So HE needs it open below the top. I use bench dogs and plane stops and don't like a holdfast in my way. But I DO LIKE to have my tools organized close to the bench. So cabinets and drawers make sense for me.

Take some time to examine how YOU work. Do you REALLY need that open space? Or are you just keeping it open because Swartz convinced you to?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Why and What?*
> 
> Twenty-five months ago I built my Roubo workbench based on plans in C. Schwarz' first Workbenches book. I read the cautions to keep the underside of the benchtop clear of anything that would impede clamping, protruding holdfasts, etc. and finished the base with a simple shelf. I did add a small, single drawer to the underside about six months later, based on examples in Roubo illustrations, but nothing else.
> 
> ...


@Stumpy - I am on board! I'll measure the space, but I'm sure there's room for a cabinet that still allows for hold fasts. I just have to come up with the right dimensions. I have Jorgensens and pipe clamps, no big Jaws.

@Dennis - You are tough on me! I'll maybe do a wall mount in the future, but the window you're seeing leaks and needs to be replaced sooner rather than later, so I'm staying away from mounting much alongside it for now. And I need better skills to pull that off well. But keep pushing me, my friend! And yes, I have both benches!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Design Specs*

Took measurements; here's what will work best (all outside dimensions of the cabinet):

33 ¼" W x 13 ¼" H x 20 ¼" D

Assuming full ¾" stock for carcase and all dividers, top drawer will be 10" x 2 ¾" (face), and larger drawers will measure 20 ¾" x 3 ¾". The door (or larger, right side drawer) is 10" x 11 ¾".

Other hard requirements:
- Has to fit between the legs of the bench (of course);
- Must be set back enough to not make contact w/ the 203 clamps in the sliding deadman; and
- Drawers must work around the deadman being in place.

Drew the cabinet face on some foam board and here it is underneath the Roubo as a one-stop mock up. It shows that the sliding deadman, pushed right, is totally clear of the other four drawers.










Then I took a hold down and ran it through the benchtop. I use hold downs a lot and the cabinet can't interfere with those. And if they fit, can't imagine a clamp that would get in the way either. Pic is hard to see, kinda dark, but shows between a one and two inch clearance.










The mock-up shows drawer sizes that will handle chisels on top, other hand tools in the two drawers below, so time to press forward. Thought is to do this as a furniture carcase build as much as possible - I want to do hand-tooled dovetails for the carcase and stopped dados for the solid-wood dividers. And this may be a great place to use some of the pine 1x stock (actually 7/8") that came out of the attic of my house. I've always looked for 'the right place' to use that stuff but I've now been storing it 18 years.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Design Specs*
> 
> Took measurements; here's what will work best (all outside dimensions of the cabinet):
> 
> ...


looking goood sofare , not a bad idea to make it half high as you do 
geting most from both world

take care
Dennis


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Design Specs*
> 
> Took measurements; here's what will work best (all outside dimensions of the cabinet):
> 
> ...


Love the fact that your chisels, marking tools and other hand tools would be so close. NOt to mention the Roubo is one of my favorites.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Materials*

Depth of cabinet is figured at 20¼", meaning that the full top requires a rough panel measuring 33Wx20D. Sides are only 13 ¼" high, so two of them end to end require a rough panel that is 27Wx20D. SO, I need 40 (plus or minus) inches of good material at least 33" along the grain. Almost four foot. And that doesn't address the bottom of the carcase or the solid wood interior dividers (four of them) I'd like to have in the finished cabinet.

The material I've decided to use should at least handle the sides and top, and it comes from a walnut extension / drop-leaf monstrosity of a table my son bid on and won at a recent consignment auction we went to. Long story short, he had my bid number and bought this thing for a buck. "You always say you can use good wood, and this one has a lot of it!" Ah, so true…

Lest anyone think I'm tossing aside a piece of history in this mad pursuit of shop furniture, a few words on the table. It… is… crap. Aprons mortised into the legs, but with a top fastened to the aprons from the outside, using slotted screws seated in holes made with a spade bit. Every board on the top is cupped, glue joints open or failed, and the extension mechanism has failed completely. Really, the only reason it was sold as a standing piece at all is because someone had run a couple of two inch drywall screws through the top, holding everything together.

What to salvage? All top pieces, aprons and legs.



















Also salvaged the wooden drop leaf supports. These appear to be hand cut; here are pictures of the supports and mortised hinges of the drop-leaf. I'll keep the supports for later use (maybe?)


























And here's a pic of the rough pine I'll have to use for the base of the carcase as well as for each of the inside partitions. I plan on edging them in walnut on the show side of the cabinet.










My concern is that a carcase made from this reworked walnut may end up being less than ¾" thick. How significant is that in a cabinet that won't ever be moved while full? Not very, I guess. Also, the inside faces of the walnut, if irregular, will show through at the dovetail joinery. It is shop furniture, though, so I'm not going to go nuts worrying about interior surfaces.

Knobs / pulls will have to be low-profile, and I don't have stuff for the interior drawer assemblies set aside yet, but those things don't have to be decided right now. I've got panels to make and lots of dovetails between me and that (finishing) stage, so off to stock prep!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Materials*
> 
> Depth of cabinet is figured at 20¼", meaning that the full top requires a rough panel measuring 33Wx20D. Sides are only 13 ¼" high, so two of them end to end require a rough panel that is 27Wx20D. SO, I need 40 (plus or minus) inches of good material at least 33" along the grain. Almost four foot. And that doesn't address the bottom of the carcase or the solid wood interior dividers (four of them) I'd like to have in the finished cabinet.
> 
> ...


nice start on the cabinet 
and I don´t think you have to worry too much about the thickness of the boards 
and it will still gain a tremmendus mass to your bench speciel when your tools have landed

looking forward to the next one

take care
Dennis


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Materials*
> 
> Depth of cabinet is figured at 20¼", meaning that the full top requires a rough panel measuring 33Wx20D. Sides are only 13 ¼" high, so two of them end to end require a rough panel that is 27Wx20D. SO, I need 40 (plus or minus) inches of good material at least 33" along the grain. Almost four foot. And that doesn't address the bottom of the carcase or the solid wood interior dividers (four of them) I'd like to have in the finished cabinet.
> 
> ...


@Dennis - I think you're right on thickness, too. Shouldn't be a problem. Surfacing this material is going to be a blast, stay tuned!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Resurfacing Material*

With plan and materials in hand it's time to build panels that will become the Roubo Cabinet (with pictures!) Not for the faint at heart, this entry contains extensive hand plane use that many would consider exhausting and (essentially) pointless in the modern workshop. I, of course, see things differently.

Up to this point, I'd not had a project that required solid wood panels that had to be joined / assembled to this extent. So 'gluing up panels' had meant rail and style stuff, not what I'd need for the Roubo Cabinet. While I have a 'traditional' bench in the shop with shoulder vise and square dogs that would do the job of holding stuff for work on their faces, I really prefer the Roubo. But with all the directional changes I'd have to do to work up these cupped boards, hold fasts just didn't excite me much. So this Resurfacing section actually will begin with a workbench modification.

Short and sweet, I bought a Veritas bench pup some time ago but hadn't cut a line of holes along the bench that would allow me to use it for face work. Why? Really because I'm essentially a chicken when it comes to modifying my bench in such a permanent fashion. Which is also why I have a vintage Craftsman 10" face vise on hand that I'm 'supposed to' add to the right end of the Roubo for essentially the same purpose. That would take more cutting than I was prepared to do, hence the Veritas mod. Pictures tell the story: cutting the row of holes (the first two spaced apart from the rest to avoid the right leg) went smoothly










except for the last one - I hit a cut nail that had to be extracted - a leftover from the bench's former life as a main entrance threshold (see Roubo Bench in my Projects area).










With all holes cut, I took my router out of storage and 'coved' a recess around each hole to minimize splitting as pups / dogs / hold downs are repeatedly pulled out, and the mod was complete!










Whew. Glad that's over. Finally a major mod to the bench that just may prevent me from adding any kind of wagon or end vise to the bench. Let's see how it works in use and go from there.

With the bench mod complete, work began on the faces of the walnut being repurposed from the $1.00 table. I got a serious workout! Applied an edge bevel to each to prevent blow out










then worked one face on each of the three wider table top boards to get a nice surface.





































Used the Stanley #5C for 90% of the straight-across and diagonals work. Pulled the #7 into service 'jointing the faces of the boards, then tried out the #5 ½ a bit for a combination smoothing / jointing exercise.










I think I'll camber that #5 ½ iron and set the frog back to put it in between my heavily cambered T11 #5 and the straight-bladed #5C.

Work holding with the bench pup was outstanding! I did have to adjust my planing movements to avoid the top of the pup but that ain't so bad. Planing at a skew every once in awhile is a good thing, and if push came to shove I could adjust the board(s) to allow a straight run if needed. With the three 'big boards' faced, I moved on to the pine boards that are needed for the bottom of the cabinet. I'll edge them in walnut at glue-up for an optimal front view. Gotta use pine in these places because there's just not enough walnut to go 'round.

Pictures of the pine facing workout are pretty interesting. Really some butt-ugly stuff at the start, but looks pretty good when all is said and done. And surfaces on either side don't have to be perfect with the pine in that they're either inside the cabinet or underneath it.























































All faced board were run through the thickness planer to remove (most of) the bow on the backsides and get a consistent (board-to-board) thickness. Here's a pic of the cleaned up walnut, ready for jointing and glue-up into panels for the top and sides. The other pieces, at the forefront, will be the faces of the four main drawers. Nothing set aside for the 'big drawer' yet…










Edging of the pine will require some handwork with a smoother to get a consistent thickness in that these pieces were run through the planer in a separate run. Build is solidly underway!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Resurfacing Material*
> 
> With plan and materials in hand it's time to build panels that will become the Roubo Cabinet (with pictures!) Not for the faint at heart, this entry contains extensive hand plane use that many would consider exhausting and (essentially) pointless in the modern workshop. I, of course, see things differently.
> 
> ...


Good stuff and very well written. Those planes will give you a workout. Who needs a gym?
I had damaged my 3/4 bit the exact same way adding holes to my bench. But that allowed me to upgrade my bit to a better one.
I do love this style bench Smitty Keep up the good work.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Resurfacing Material*
> 
> With plan and materials in hand it's time to build panels that will become the Roubo Cabinet (with pictures!) Not for the faint at heart, this entry contains extensive hand plane use that many would consider exhausting and (essentially) pointless in the modern workshop. I, of course, see things differently.
> 
> ...


@Super - Thank you, glad you enjoy it! Bit I used for bench drilling was a Forstner…Is that what you used? Love the planes and working on the bench. Really looking forward to getting this project done and set under the Roubo!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Resurfacing Material*
> 
> With plan and materials in hand it's time to build panels that will become the Roubo Cabinet (with pictures!) Not for the faint at heart, this entry contains extensive hand plane use that many would consider exhausting and (essentially) pointless in the modern workshop. I, of course, see things differently.
> 
> ...


Yep it was a brand new set that my wife was sold. She had bought me a router at a big box store. Told the guy she wanted a set of bits to go with it. He sold her a 10 piece set of forstner bits. I got them and she was so sorry. I told her no problem they would be put to use. I ruined the 3/4 four days latter. Had to get another quickly. 
The bench is coming along nicely









.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Resurfacing Material*
> 
> With plan and materials in hand it's time to build panels that will become the Roubo Cabinet (with pictures!) Not for the faint at heart, this entry contains extensive hand plane use that many would consider exhausting and (essentially) pointless in the modern workshop. I, of course, see things differently.
> 
> ...


Forstners with a router - that's sad but very funny! Oh man…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Panel Glue-Ups*

Laid out the pieces to get panels that will be the top and two sides of the cabinet / carcase, paying some attention to grain pattern as well as grain direction, to get pieces that would be visually appealing and that would (hopefully) smooth well at final finish. Here's the walnut all laid out:










I'm gluing up a total of four total panels - two walnut and two pine. Not rocket science - apply glue to both edges:










Brush out, then squeeze. Walnuts were first, and one of those needed some vertical clamping to keep it from bowing front to back. The other did well without help.



















I did do a fifth assembly the day before the panel work with all the walnut cut-offs; this picture shows those smaller widths that were jointed w/ the #8 and glued to make bulk edging material for the pine partitions; easier to work with cuts to width than narrower pieces that aren't true. I know, I'm still having a hard time throwing anything away from this old table…










Here's one of the pine panels with walnut edge band, glued up on Panel Day:










After sitting overnight, the clamps were removed and excess glue was basically scraped off by holding a 1" chisel nearly flat against the joint and running it front to back. Once all were out of the clamps, I did some additional smoothing across the larger faces to bring some inconsistencies under control. The walnut went fine.



















The pine smoothing work was more interesting. Like the backs of the walnut, I ran the pine boards through the power planer to get to consistent thickness; clearly the blades need some sharpening. Here are views of the pine being worked, to include a shot of "specks" that were then smoothed out with a 4 ½. All then looked great.


























Completed panels appear to be flat and true, so this part of the build is now 'in the can.' Four panels don't a cabinet make, of course… many hours of shop time so far and all I have to show my wife are some big boards.

I've starting 'sticking' my raw materials at this point. It's very, very rainy this spring and I would hate for these panels to start going all weird on me. That, and no matter where I place them they're in the way. So it's over to the assy bench (now cleared of all other interests) for these panels until they get dimensioned prior to joinery work.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Panel Glue-Ups*
> 
> Laid out the pieces to get panels that will be the top and two sides of the cabinet / carcase, paying some attention to grain pattern as well as grain direction, to get pieces that would be visually appealing and that would (hopefully) smooth well at final finish. Here's the walnut all laid out:
> 
> ...


Great glue up Smitty, I was given a large load of hard wood and was faced with storage also. I built a rack overhead and at the height it is the checking will not be a severe.


















Oh some of your picks are missing. Might wana check it out.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Panel Glue-Ups*
> 
> Laid out the pieces to get panels that will be the top and two sides of the cabinet / carcase, paying some attention to grain pattern as well as grain direction, to get pieces that would be visually appealing and that would (hopefully) smooth well at final finish. Here's the walnut all laid out:
> 
> ...


Nice post. Good looking panels !

I think "Panel Day" should be a Federal holiday 

I wonder whether there will be any movement issues with walnut+pine…..


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Panel Glue-Ups*
> 
> Laid out the pieces to get panels that will be the top and two sides of the cabinet / carcase, paying some attention to grain pattern as well as grain direction, to get pieces that would be visually appealing and that would (hopefully) smooth well at final finish. Here's the walnut all laid out:
> 
> ...


@Super - think I've got the pics figured out in the post - thanks for the heads up! Formatting the links is a pain sometimes… Question on your pics - who's the Patron Saint of Racks (headshot photo on the wall)? Does she prevent checking, twist and wind?  *Lots* of space up there - good use of overhead!

@Neil - Thanks! And I think I'll write my congressman RE: Panel Day… They're not getting much of anything else accomplished these days! 

Regarding movement, each of the 'boards' is certainly over 50 years old and that entered into my decision to not worry about it. Especially length-wise. If there (ever) is severe change, the joint will fail and the recourse will be to drive some screws into the face of the cabinet. I don't think it will happen, truthfully. If material isn't stable at this age… But then, come to think of it, I'm not necessary stable either. Crap.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Panel Glue-Ups*
> 
> Laid out the pieces to get panels that will be the top and two sides of the cabinet / carcase, paying some attention to grain pattern as well as grain direction, to get pieces that would be visually appealing and that would (hopefully) smooth well at final finish. Here's the walnut all laid out:
> 
> ...


looking good sofare 

take care
Dennis


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## DinoWalk (May 24, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Panel Glue-Ups*
> 
> Laid out the pieces to get panels that will be the top and two sides of the cabinet / carcase, paying some attention to grain pattern as well as grain direction, to get pieces that would be visually appealing and that would (hopefully) smooth well at final finish. Here's the walnut all laid out:
> 
> ...


Smitty, nice series so far. I really like how you're using salvaged wood. What glue do you like to use?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Panel Glue-Ups*
> 
> Laid out the pieces to get panels that will be the top and two sides of the cabinet / carcase, paying some attention to grain pattern as well as grain direction, to get pieces that would be visually appealing and that would (hopefully) smooth well at final finish. Here's the walnut all laid out:
> 
> ...


@dino- Thanks. Glue is nothing special, just Titebond. Glad you're enjoying!


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Panel Glue-Ups*
> 
> Laid out the pieces to get panels that will be the top and two sides of the cabinet / carcase, paying some attention to grain pattern as well as grain direction, to get pieces that would be visually appealing and that would (hopefully) smooth well at final finish. Here's the walnut all laid out:
> 
> ...


Very nice blog and very nice work.
A joy to read and to follow


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Panel Glue-Ups*
> 
> Laid out the pieces to get panels that will be the top and two sides of the cabinet / carcase, paying some attention to grain pattern as well as grain direction, to get pieces that would be visually appealing and that would (hopefully) smooth well at final finish. Here's the walnut all laid out:
> 
> ...


@Bert - Thanks! I wish I would have taken a picture of the donor table back in March… So ugly. The first picture above, after the text "The walnut went fine." There are a couple of holes visible. Those were locations of 3" wood screws that were holding the table together when it sold at auction for $1. I didn't plug them, they're visible on the finished cabinet. Always a reminder to me of what can come from what appears to be total cr*p.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Panel Glue-Ups*
> 
> Laid out the pieces to get panels that will be the top and two sides of the cabinet / carcase, paying some attention to grain pattern as well as grain direction, to get pieces that would be visually appealing and that would (hopefully) smooth well at final finish. Here's the walnut all laid out:
> 
> ...


When I was very young my father told me the most wonderful thing about wood is that it can always be made like new.
This is what you did , great job.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Panel Glue-Ups*
> 
> Laid out the pieces to get panels that will be the top and two sides of the cabinet / carcase, paying some attention to grain pattern as well as grain direction, to get pieces that would be visually appealing and that would (hopefully) smooth well at final finish. Here's the walnut all laid out:
> 
> ...


Panel Day pictures restored / retrieved from Photo(Scum)Bucket.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Cutting to Size*

I don't always subscribe to 'measure twice, cut once' because the stuff I build isn't set in stone; designing around mistakes, when they happen, isn't too difficult, typically. The foam board mock up I did for this cabinet, for example, represents a high-water mark of up-front design work for shop furniture! With more complex builds, Sketch Up may be something I need to learn. But I digress…

After the many hours of work required simply to get panels made to work with (example of one of the walnut panels here):










I approached cutting with some concern. After all, it's not like I can create more raw material and recover without issue; the table parts are pretty much all used up. The donor table has been disassembled and processed, along with some old pine, into a total of four panels that should just be enough material to build this tool cabinet. Cutting was going to be via handsaw, free-hand on the table saw, or via the DeWalt RAS. I chose the RAS for ripping and cross-cutting. I pulled back the carriage and set the width of cut needed for the top and sides panels, then ran each of them through.










The pine (bottom and partition) panels) were then cut using the same blade setting. Cuts completed without issue / couldn't be more pleased. I should be able to get all of the four interior drawer partitions: 1) out of a cut-off from the bottom panel; and 2) from cuts of the second large pine panel. Won't have much extra material when all is said and done.










Next step is to start putting these pieces together with dovetails on the corners and stopped dados at the ends of each partition. Knowing there's no room for error adds just a little pucker, not?


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cutting to Size*
> 
> I don't always subscribe to 'measure twice, cut once' because the stuff I build isn't set in stone; designing around mistakes, when they happen, isn't too difficult, typically. The foam board mock up I did for this cabinet, for example, represents a high-water mark of up-front design work for shop furniture! With more complex builds, Sketch Up may be something I need to learn. But I digress…
> 
> ...


Looking very nice Smitty. I noticed your collection of hand saws. Are you a hybrid woodworker? Keep the blog going I am interested in the outcome


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Cutting to Size*
> 
> I don't always subscribe to 'measure twice, cut once' because the stuff I build isn't set in stone; designing around mistakes, when they happen, isn't too difficult, typically. The foam board mock up I did for this cabinet, for example, represents a high-water mark of up-front design work for shop furniture! With more complex builds, Sketch Up may be something I need to learn. But I digress…
> 
> ...


@Super - I guess Hybrid is as good a word as any for how I'm working anymore. And it's a great way to go. That's a more 'thoughtful' blog entry for another time… Maybe…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Mitered Dovetails*

We are to the point, fellow woodworkers, that progress is being made that directly results in something that resembles an actual cabinet. So if you've followed along up to this point waiting for 'real work' to take place, yawning with each installment that detailed build plans (boring!), material prep (double boring!) and panel glue-ups (A blog entry on gluing panels? Are you kidding me??), this just may be the pay-off you've been waiting for. Of course, maybe not. But I digress, as usual…

Let's begin the build of this carcase by laying out the dovetail spacing on the walnut side panels. Both panels will be cut at the same time.


















And here's proof of said cutting, because if there aren't pictures, it must not have happened:


























I then removed most of the waste with a coping saw before clamping the panels to the bench for some chisel work.


































Each of the panels of the carcase will be joined at the corners using mitered dovetails. I blogged about this previously, and the method used for this build evolved from the three practice rounds (and comments) done with scrap stock as proof of concept. The challenge then was accurately marking mitered half-tails, if you recall…

To work the mitered tails, each panel has to be clamped on it's edge using the flush face of the bench as a clamping surface. For the carcase top, this meant using the leg vise on one end and a leg-based hold down on the other end. The sliding deadman is at the end as well, providing additional backing for the panel. What an elegant solution - I love this bench…










And back to the cutting. Begin by marking the miter on the edge of the board with a knife using a small (mine is a 6") combination square as a guide. Then chisel out a small trough for the dovetail saw to fit into, on the waste side of the line, because I want a crisp finish on this show joint.










I don't have a picture of the diagonal cut in action, but it did happen because the vertical cut that removes the miter waste, along with chisel trimming of the miter, are each shown in the following.


















Once the pin waste is chopped out and the first jointed end of this inaugural side panel of the carcase took final form, it was time to mark the pin board to include miters. This is where I came up with a trick to transfer lines that results in good miters.

Position the tail board as normal. See the gaps at each end between the half tails and pin board? Those gaps pose a problem for line transfer in the traditional sense; hard to trace where there is no direct contact.










So I made a short mark at the base of the tail, then positioned the combination square on top of the tail board for a perpendicular mark where the mitered tail is hovering. You can see the small mark:










When the tail board is pulled, simply connect the lines to get a complete cutline for the pin miter…










Cut the pin board in the now-familiar sequence:










































Now for the moment of truth. The first jointed corner of the cabinet is ready for a test fit. Hours invested up to this point, so it's important that each of these joints goes well. Really no margin for error… I clamped the pin board to the face of the bench and readied the tail board support system (in this case, a #4 ½ wide smooth plane):










Then laid it into place









and tapped it down.









Does it fit? You be the judge, but here's hint: I'm tickled to death!





































Here's where things move very quickly on the web but in reality involved many, many hours of sawing and chopping. The extra-fine news was that I've become very familiar with the new #750 Stanley SW chisels; they were used throughout this part of the build, worked great and held a single, good edge without rehoning. Glad I finally have a decent (and complete) set of chisels to work with (see my review in LJs if you'd like to read more). Anyway, I completed the pin and tail cuts on the other side panel then completed tail cuts to each side panel to match them up with the walnut-edged pine base panel. Here's that panel clamped up first for pin cuts then for chopping.


















This panel fit together with the sides wonderfully, and the contrasting woods really looks cool.









And so now I have a four sided box! Hooray!


















Didn't count how many times (already) these panels have been put together then taken apart, but with the partitions to cut and join to the carcase via stopped dados, there are many more dry fits in my future. But I have a four-sided box!


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## Hoakie (May 8, 2007)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails*
> 
> We are to the point, fellow woodworkers, that progress is being made that directly results in something that resembles an actual cabinet. So if you've followed along up to this point waiting for 'real work' to take place, yawning with each installment that detailed build plans (boring!), material prep (double boring!) and panel glue-ups (A blog entry on gluing panels? Are you kidding me??), this just may be the pay-off you've been waiting for. Of course, maybe not. But I digress, as usual…
> 
> ...


That's a lot of dovetailing…Nice work! I can't wait to get back in my shop and make some sawdust.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails*
> 
> We are to the point, fellow woodworkers, that progress is being made that directly results in something that resembles an actual cabinet. So if you've followed along up to this point waiting for 'real work' to take place, yawning with each installment that detailed build plans (boring!), material prep (double boring!) and panel glue-ups (A blog entry on gluing panels? Are you kidding me??), this just may be the pay-off you've been waiting for. Of course, maybe not. But I digress, as usual…
> 
> ...


@Hoakie - And I've inflicted five drawers w/ half-blinds on myself too with this little piece of shop furniture. Ah, but let's chalk it up to 'practice with a purpose.'

I looked at your dovetail posts - very impressive stuff! I'm hoping these clean up almost as nice as yours did once all is glued together and planed out. I've had the carcase clamped up tight, in a dry fit exercise, and have been very pleased with the joints 'off the saw,' as they say.

There are many approaches to the through-dovetail joint… Suffice to say it can be for show but is also simply a very, very strong way to join two boards at right angles. With this shop cabinet, I'm after strength; it's why I didn't sweat the inside of the panels and have some gaps as a result in the dovetails. But the box is way rigid, and I love it. And I got to practice on something meaningful, rather than just making bookends.

I've opted not to use a dovetail angle gauge when cutting tails - it's whatever my saw does naturally as an angle. The results are surprisingly consistent and pleasing to my eye. After all, it was meant to be a hidden joint more often than not at the corners of carcases. I won't be hiding these, of course… 

Hope you're enjoying the series - thanks for the comment and good luck w/ your projects!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails*
> 
> We are to the point, fellow woodworkers, that progress is being made that directly results in something that resembles an actual cabinet. So if you've followed along up to this point waiting for 'real work' to take place, yawning with each installment that detailed build plans (boring!), material prep (double boring!) and panel glue-ups (A blog entry on gluing panels? Are you kidding me??), this just may be the pay-off you've been waiting for. Of course, maybe not. But I digress, as usual…
> 
> ...


First Smitty this was a very well written and a detailed post. I have found another lj that cuts taisl first.You have built a very nice carcase. The miter edges are impressive and neatly done. Please blog on the glue up and drawer build. Great job


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails*
> 
> We are to the point, fellow woodworkers, that progress is being made that directly results in something that resembles an actual cabinet. So if you've followed along up to this point waiting for 'real work' to take place, yawning with each installment that detailed build plans (boring!), material prep (double boring!) and panel glue-ups (A blog entry on gluing panels? Are you kidding me??), this just may be the pay-off you've been waiting for. Of course, maybe not. But I digress, as usual…
> 
> ...


@Super- Thanks much for reading and for the comments.

I tried pins first when learning the joint, didn't care for it. Tried again a few weeks ago to see if it helped with the mitered joint used here, and it really didn't to my way of thinking. So now it's tails first or bust! 

Stay tuned for partition via dado cuts, plus a floating back panel besides the glue up and drawer fabs. Oh, and finishing. Have no idea when it'll all get done now that summer's pretty much here! But it's the journey, right?


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails*
> 
> We are to the point, fellow woodworkers, that progress is being made that directly results in something that resembles an actual cabinet. So if you've followed along up to this point waiting for 'real work' to take place, yawning with each installment that detailed build plans (boring!), material prep (double boring!) and panel glue-ups (A blog entry on gluing panels? Are you kidding me??), this just may be the pay-off you've been waiting for. Of course, maybe not. But I digress, as usual…
> 
> ...


That is fantastically good work. Thanks for sharing with all the pictures.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails*
> 
> We are to the point, fellow woodworkers, that progress is being made that directly results in something that resembles an actual cabinet. So if you've followed along up to this point waiting for 'real work' to take place, yawning with each installment that detailed build plans (boring!), material prep (double boring!) and panel glue-ups (A blog entry on gluing panels? Are you kidding me??), this just may be the pay-off you've been waiting for. Of course, maybe not. But I digress, as usual…
> 
> ...


I am at the learning stages of hand cut dovetails. They take a long time. Yet, I would hazard a guess that for as long as it took for accomplish your dovetail box, that the process of documenting the steps, posting the pics, and composing the post, took just as long.

Thank you so much for sharing your experience. I certainly do enjoy following along.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails*
> 
> We are to the point, fellow woodworkers, that progress is being made that directly results in something that resembles an actual cabinet. So if you've followed along up to this point waiting for 'real work' to take place, yawning with each installment that detailed build plans (boring!), material prep (double boring!) and panel glue-ups (A blog entry on gluing panels? Are you kidding me??), this just may be the pay-off you've been waiting for. Of course, maybe not. But I digress, as usual…
> 
> ...


@lysdexic - Good luck on your dovetailing! I'm comfortable with the joint now, but have to be very deliberate at each step to minimize the 'oops' opportunities, if you know what I mean. If you try thirty dovetails in thirty days the tools, layout, cutting and chopping steps will become familiar; I cut 23 sets in 30 days on 4" wide scrap pine, and got to where I wanted to be. Give it a try!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails*
> 
> We are to the point, fellow woodworkers, that progress is being made that directly results in something that resembles an actual cabinet. So if you've followed along up to this point waiting for 'real work' to take place, yawning with each installment that detailed build plans (boring!), material prep (double boring!) and panel glue-ups (A blog entry on gluing panels? Are you kidding me??), this just may be the pay-off you've been waiting for. Of course, maybe not. But I digress, as usual…
> 
> ...


@8iowa - Thanks for the great compliment, glad you like the series. It's at a stop this weekend but I'm hoping for some shop time this week.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails*
> 
> We are to the point, fellow woodworkers, that progress is being made that directly results in something that resembles an actual cabinet. So if you've followed along up to this point waiting for 'real work' to take place, yawning with each installment that detailed build plans (boring!), material prep (double boring!) and panel glue-ups (A blog entry on gluing panels? Are you kidding me??), this just may be the pay-off you've been waiting for. Of course, maybe not. But I digress, as usual…
> 
> ...


I like those dovetails.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails*
> 
> We are to the point, fellow woodworkers, that progress is being made that directly results in something that resembles an actual cabinet. So if you've followed along up to this point waiting for 'real work' to take place, yawning with each installment that detailed build plans (boring!), material prep (double boring!) and panel glue-ups (A blog entry on gluing panels? Are you kidding me??), this just may be the pay-off you've been waiting for. Of course, maybe not. But I digress, as usual…
> 
> ...


All 30+ pictures that were hosed by Photo(Scum)Bucket have been restored in the post above. Smitty


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails*
> 
> We are to the point, fellow woodworkers, that progress is being made that directly results in something that resembles an actual cabinet. So if you've followed along up to this point waiting for 'real work' to take place, yawning with each installment that detailed build plans (boring!), material prep (double boring!) and panel glue-ups (A blog entry on gluing panels? Are you kidding me??), this just may be the pay-off you've been waiting for. Of course, maybe not. But I digress, as usual…
> 
> ...


Appreciate your tenacity


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails*
> 
> We are to the point, fellow woodworkers, that progress is being made that directly results in something that resembles an actual cabinet. So if you've followed along up to this point waiting for 'real work' to take place, yawning with each installment that detailed build plans (boring!), material prep (double boring!) and panel glue-ups (A blog entry on gluing panels? Are you kidding me??), this just may be the pay-off you've been waiting for. Of course, maybe not. But I digress, as usual…
> 
> ...


I guess 'tenacity' is one word to describe it. At least it kinda rhymes with 'insanity'.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Dados and Partitions*

I've got a carcase that needs to be divided into sections to house five drawers for hand tools at the Roubo. As is usually the case with my shop work, there are more efficient ways to put drawers in cabinets than the methods I've chosen. Part of the answer to that is this Cabinet will be matched up to a bench that, as a pair of shop tools, will be productive way beyond my time with both of them. The balance falls into the mantra 'practice with a purpose.' I build things for the shop using tools and joinery I'd like to use in the future on heirloom furniture for my kids. Heady stuff, right? So enough of that - on to the Update!

The first pair of dados will carry the main vertical partition; the one that defines and separates The Large Drawer from the three rows of drawers elsewhere on the cabinet's face. And the first dado was cut by clamping down a stop across the top panel and cutting a pair of boundary lines with my 14" tenon saw for routing. A little cutting w/ a chisel, then the Stanley "Old Woman's Tooth" kicked in.


























That experience, ie: clamping and cutting alongside a stop to an imprecise depth, didn't excite me much; that I had to chop alongside the saw lines was too much work and I used that method exactly one time. From that point it was 'strike a deep line w/ an Exacto knife, then chop (deepen) those etched lines with a chisel.' If I had the right sized #39 skew-angle dado plane, with sharp cutter and spurs, that'd be the dandy tool to use here. But, I don't. *sigh*

Either way, with a depth that defined a nice track for the Stanley #71 router, there was a method for cutting all of the dado cuts needed in the cabinet (eight of them for those keeping score at home). The first picture shows the chopping being done w/ a vintage Everlasting; I did that to see if I missed the feel of hitting steel vs. the wood on wood of the 750 socket chisels. Wood won…


















































And a couple more routing pictures, with nice clean dados! Process was pretty successful after several rounds of it.

















On the router, tried the v-blade first but went with the 3/8" (or 1/2"?) square blade after some fine honing on the 1200 diamond stone. With both dados cut (top and bottom panels), I re-assembled the carcase to mark and then cut a piece of partition panel to length and checked it for square.

























Slid panel into carcase, and fit was snug (but not too much so). With partition in place, time to mark it at the top and bottom for a stopped (stepped) cut with an Exacto knife.

















To cut each of these "step cuts" at either end of all four partitions, follow the pics below. With the face of the to-length partition etched, I clamped the partition into the bench for easy edge work

















and chiseled (flicked, actually) the waste so the gents dovetail saw would have a nice edge to follow.









Depth was marked w/ the 6" combination square,









and cuts were made.

















First panel / partition in, with pics of 'step cuts' revealed at the top and bottom.

















Left-hand side panel needed a couple of dado cuts to handle the three rows of drawers (same as the new vertical partition). So I marked it,









scored the lines,









set those lines a little deeper with chisel and then did the router thing.

















I did have a couple of partitions that were too tight for my liking (very hard to slide in and out - I was afraid they'd split!). I used a block plane and some wax to ease things along. Note that I didn't apply wax to the front ends of any of the panels; the intent is to apply glue at these (dado-housed) leading ends to keep the partitions in place while allowing the rest of the panel to float (expand / contract) over time, uninhibited. 

















And now, once again, it's time to leverage the power of the web and move this project forward at a rate that simply doesn't convey the amount of effort required to actually get stuff done.
Each partition was cut to length, notched and fitted into a carcase that was 'rough clamped' to ensure sizing would indeed fit within the dimensions of a cabinet that is glued up and clamped tight. Yes, it was a bear doing all the inserts and re-inserts, but the end result is worth all of the effort. 

























The last pic in this chapter shows the in-work cabinet set on top of the bench that will house it when all is said and done. Note all of the clutter underneath… Ah, I can't wait to get that space moved into the Productive column. Soon, I hope.










Next steps include fabricating a back panel as well as a frame and panel drawer front for The Big Drawer, and these will be unique challenges. Material selection is now a critical issue in that the donor table has little to offer in the way of quality pieces to be re-purposed. Especially for the back panel. I don't want to depart from the walnut theme of this piece, so I'll have to scrounge the woodpile for decent (not prime) material good for nothing but the back of a carcase. Additionally, I'd like the back panel to be floating; no metal fasteners (nails, brads, screws, etc) at all. Not that I intend to drag this thing through airport screening, but I want it so that if I *wanted to…* The mitered dovetails should enable me to cut a fully hidden dado if I want to go with a tongue and groove fit, but man that certainly complicates glue-up because the panel will have to be in place while the sides are drawn in tight at the dovetails. Yuck. With glue that is drying in place. Double Yuck. And the Big Drawer front will have a pull on its face, so it can't be a thin panel. Triple Yuck! Oh, isn't it fun to design on the fly? Make no mistake, it may seem like this is all thought out, but it's an illusion. If I waited for all planning to be complete before cutting wood, nothing would get done. That would equal No Fun…

Thanks for reading!

EDIT: I have a combination of flickr and photo(scum)bucket images in this post. This will be addressed soon. Smitty


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Dados and Partitions*
> 
> I've got a carcase that needs to be divided into sections to house five drawers for hand tools at the Roubo. As is usually the case with my shop work, there are more efficient ways to put drawers in cabinets than the methods I've chosen. Part of the answer to that is this Cabinet will be matched up to a bench that, as a pair of shop tools, will be productive way beyond my time with both of them. The balance falls into the mantra 'practice with a purpose.' I build things for the shop using tools and joinery I'd like to use in the future on heirloom furniture for my kids. Heady stuff, right? So enough of that - on to the Update!
> 
> ...


All - Had extreme difficulty with Photobucket earlier this evening while trying to post this blog entry - if you received multiple notices of an update but couldn't find the entry, sorry, but I deleted it until there was time to correct it by moving pics to Flickr. Not sure I like the photo sizes that are the defaults above, but I don't know how to change them. Ah, isn't technology grand???

And this Comment gets me to 100 posts in 54 days - Huzzah!


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## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Dados and Partitions*
> 
> I've got a carcase that needs to be divided into sections to house five drawers for hand tools at the Roubo. As is usually the case with my shop work, there are more efficient ways to put drawers in cabinets than the methods I've chosen. Part of the answer to that is this Cabinet will be matched up to a bench that, as a pair of shop tools, will be productive way beyond my time with both of them. The balance falls into the mantra 'practice with a purpose.' I build things for the shop using tools and joinery I'd like to use in the future on heirloom furniture for my kids. Heady stuff, right? So enough of that - on to the Update!
> 
> ...


Nice update Smitty. I've got some tricky dados to cut in a while and you've just complicated it for me with another alternative on how to cut them … Thanks. You'll have your clutter cleared up soon.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Dados and Partitions*
> 
> I've got a carcase that needs to be divided into sections to house five drawers for hand tools at the Roubo. As is usually the case with my shop work, there are more efficient ways to put drawers in cabinets than the methods I've chosen. Part of the answer to that is this Cabinet will be matched up to a bench that, as a pair of shop tools, will be productive way beyond my time with both of them. The balance falls into the mantra 'practice with a purpose.' I build things for the shop using tools and joinery I'd like to use in the future on heirloom furniture for my kids. Heady stuff, right? So enough of that - on to the Update!
> 
> ...


Smitty I commented on this once and uhh it disappeared. Oh well, very nicely done. I do like the widows tooth she is very nice. A wonderful carcase you have built by hand. Will she have a little hideaway in her somewhere? Great job.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Dados and Partitions*
> 
> I've got a carcase that needs to be divided into sections to house five drawers for hand tools at the Roubo. As is usually the case with my shop work, there are more efficient ways to put drawers in cabinets than the methods I've chosen. Part of the answer to that is this Cabinet will be matched up to a bench that, as a pair of shop tools, will be productive way beyond my time with both of them. The balance falls into the mantra 'practice with a purpose.' I build things for the shop using tools and joinery I'd like to use in the future on heirloom furniture for my kids. Heady stuff, right? So enough of that - on to the Update!
> 
> ...


@Super - Thanks very much for the ear worm, re: secret compartment… Now I will be aggravating myself even further by incorporating something!  It *does* make a lot of sense! Hmmm…


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Dados and Partitions*
> 
> I've got a carcase that needs to be divided into sections to house five drawers for hand tools at the Roubo. As is usually the case with my shop work, there are more efficient ways to put drawers in cabinets than the methods I've chosen. Part of the answer to that is this Cabinet will be matched up to a bench that, as a pair of shop tools, will be productive way beyond my time with both of them. The balance falls into the mantra 'practice with a purpose.' I build things for the shop using tools and joinery I'd like to use in the future on heirloom furniture for my kids. Heady stuff, right? So enough of that - on to the Update!
> 
> ...


I am the same way. I might make a sketch or something when I start but for the most part I find a logical place to start on a workpiece and I go from there.

Is that a Record knuckle-joint block plane? I have one just like it waiting for restore, did you notice some slop in the mouth adjustment when you got yours?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Dados and Partitions*
> 
> I've got a carcase that needs to be divided into sections to house five drawers for hand tools at the Roubo. As is usually the case with my shop work, there are more efficient ways to put drawers in cabinets than the methods I've chosen. Part of the answer to that is this Cabinet will be matched up to a bench that, as a pair of shop tools, will be productive way beyond my time with both of them. The balance falls into the mantra 'practice with a purpose.' I build things for the shop using tools and joinery I'd like to use in the future on heirloom furniture for my kids. Heady stuff, right? So enough of that - on to the Update!
> 
> ...


@RG - Don't know if I'll ever learn sketch-up at this rate, but I'm probably one massive screw up away. 

That block plane in the pic is an old Craftsman knuckle joint, made (most likely) by Sargent from what I've been able to research on-line in the two years I've owned it. $12 at auction, and I love it 'cept for the lack of a lateral adjustment lever. No slop in the mouth, and enough blade to last my lifetime, I think. Thanks for looking!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Dados and Partitions*
> 
> I've got a carcase that needs to be divided into sections to house five drawers for hand tools at the Roubo. As is usually the case with my shop work, there are more efficient ways to put drawers in cabinets than the methods I've chosen. Part of the answer to that is this Cabinet will be matched up to a bench that, as a pair of shop tools, will be productive way beyond my time with both of them. The balance falls into the mantra 'practice with a purpose.' I build things for the shop using tools and joinery I'd like to use in the future on heirloom furniture for my kids. Heady stuff, right? So enough of that - on to the Update!
> 
> ...


Cabinet looks good!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Framed Backpanel*

I have a fully joined carcase with partitions for five drawers, but it's only got two sides, a top and a bottom. ie: it needs a backside! Options I've thought about include a series of half-lap boards nailed into a rabbet at all four edges, and a floating frame and panel. Because one of these is necessarily more difficult to do than the other, you can likely guess which one I've chosen…

I started work with material selection. For the frame I've used a pretty non-descript (re: crappy) piece of walnut from inventory; it's reasonably flat and true, with the right thickness, but has sapwood and knots and swirls a-plenty. So, a frugal choice that is suitable for the back of a shop cabinet. Dimensioned length and width of frame per the assembled (but not glued) caracase. Individual rail and stile widths dictated by the material: maxed out at 3" by cutting out knots and some of the barker sapwood. Board was ripped twice, edges were jointed:




























Dimensioned length and width of frame per the assembled (but not glued) caracase. 









Individual rail and stile widths dictated by the material: maxed out at 3" by cutting out knots and some of the barker sapwood. With that much layout completed, to include some slop for future joinery, I moved on to cutting the tongues and grooves with the Stanley #48 T&G plane, including all four ends of the rail pieces. If you haven't had a chance to use a #48, it's a blast. I laughed out loud the first time I cut with this tool; I've never had that kind of reaction to a power tool, and I'd say the #48 was likely the single tool that sealed the hand tool deal with me. Anyway, I marked the faces of all boards to ensure I attacked each with the plane oriented correctly; the #48 is optimized to center on 7/8" and my material is not (exactly) that (and I don't really care that it isn't). So setting faces and working the material consistently, to preserve the show face, is important with the #48. 









Here are shots of the groove cuts on the rails.



























I applied mineral spirits to the end grain and waxed the plane a few times to help things along / get the best results. Also note the clamped 'sacrificial' cut-off that prevents severe end grain blow out when pulling this maneuver.



























For the inset panel 'filler' material, I opted for what was available over making something custom. Plucked some salvaged, beaded poplar type stuff from inventory and cut several pieces to length on the RAS.


















Then took passes at the table saw to get ends "thicknessed" to match the frame grooves. 


















Centered the whole pieces to get consistent 'partials' measurement at each end with a pair of dividers. Marked the cut and used a gents dovetail saw to rip it and get each of the two partial end from one board. Nice it worked out that way / saves some material. Used the gents because it's the thinnest kerf I have. Some thinning on the ends of the bead stock was needed get all things to fit not-too-snug, and that was done w/ a #93 shoulder plane. Applied glue to all frame joints then clamped it up. 













































Removed clamps and did some smoothing plane work on the face; also cut the excess stile run-off. Final sizing of this roughed panel, as well as joinery to get it matched up to the carcase, is next on the To Do list in my march towards Glue-Up.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Framed Backpanel*
> 
> I have a fully joined carcase with partitions for five drawers, but it's only got two sides, a top and a bottom. ie: it needs a backside! Options I've thought about include a series of half-lap boards nailed into a rabbet at all four edges, and a floating frame and panel. Because one of these is necessarily more difficult to do than the other, you can likely guess which one I've chosen…
> 
> ...


Very good progress. And your neatness with you hand tools is to be commended. And I want you to know I am drooling over that wonderful plane. OK now to something I don't know, the wax I get but what pray tell do the spirits do for you?
Great job. My hat is off Smitty


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## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Framed Backpanel*
> 
> I have a fully joined carcase with partitions for five drawers, but it's only got two sides, a top and a bottom. ie: it needs a backside! Options I've thought about include a series of half-lap boards nailed into a rabbet at all four edges, and a floating frame and panel. Because one of these is necessarily more difficult to do than the other, you can likely guess which one I've chosen…
> 
> ...


The spirits make the end grain fibers easier to slice giving a wonderfully smmooth finished surface, am I right Smitty?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Framed Backpanel*
> 
> I have a fully joined carcase with partitions for five drawers, but it's only got two sides, a top and a bottom. ie: it needs a backside! Options I've thought about include a series of half-lap boards nailed into a rabbet at all four edges, and a floating frame and panel. Because one of these is necessarily more difficult to do than the other, you can likely guess which one I've chosen…
> 
> ...


@kenn - Absolutely correct. Softer end grain means less splitting, smoother results, and the spirits dry without or residue. Any final finish unaffected.

@Super - Treat yourself and get a #48! You won't regret it… 

And thanks for the vote of confidence because there isn't anyone 'round these parts doing this kind of thing w/ hand tools. Heck, I'm fairly certain my dad believes I'm certifiable for working this way…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Placing the Backpanel*

With the back panel released from pipe-clamp jail and kinda-sorta smoothed with a #4, time to get it ready for fitting to the back of the carcase. What I want to do is get this panel inset into a groove planed (yes, with the #48!) inside said carcase so it floats in place / can expand and contract its little heart out. The panel will be 'tongued' on all four sides, so in order to get the 'un-tongued' dimensions right I first had to clamp the carcase tight to get a 'finished' inside dimension for the back panel.










Along with that, I jointed a long edge on the panel itself. Knocked a bevel on the end to avoid end-grain blow out then planed it smooth




























With the backpanel placed underneath the clamped-up carcase, I was able to measure the absolute max dimensions; from there I set the radial arm saw and worked on cutting the panel to width (actually, height of the in-place cabinet) with a number of passes. 









Have you ever tried to 'sneak up' on a cut like that? Be honest…

Well, this time it didn't work for me and I'll tell you what happened. I have a 2-foot rule that I'm trying very hard to make my go-to measuring tool while doing these kinds of "furniture" builds. And up until this point I was doing pretty good. But this time, the measure fell inside the brass-joined hinge sections of the rule; when I translated said measure to the blade of the RAS, I was off by one half inch, so now the panel fit totally inside the opening rather being T&G ready as planned. Did the cutting correctly on the ends of the panel (whew!) so I moved on to the #48 cuts to get the panel as well as the endcaps of the carcase cut. Grooves worked right into the mitered tails, looks great! Whew. This part of the plan worked…


















So how does the carcase look with a backside? Not too bad.



























In that last pic you can see that visible 'ends' to the dados I cut for the partitions. If I had done the rabbeted backpanel solution discussed earlier, those would now be out of sight. Do they bother me now, being visible on the back of the cabinet? A bit, to be disgustingly honest about it. And the major impetus for doing mitered dovetails in the first place was for the backside rabbets. But it's either remake the backpanel or live with these construction 'clues' on the backside of a cabinet that sits under my workbench. Uhmmm… let's see… Well… I think I'll chalk it up to lesson learned and move on!

Oh, yes, did I mention the partitions? There's one more value-add task needed to make those ready for glue-up, and that is to cut them to their now-final 'depth.' I marked each with the measurement taken with the backpanel in place, then cut them with a hand saw… Decided to go that way over free-handing at the table saw or using the band saw. Really, it's just as easier to rip them by hand using a sharp saw and a sawbench.



















So, finally, the carcase is in final form, ready for glue-up. How 'bout a glamour shot? *Queue the pretty girls!* Wait, don't have any of those standing by. So, all you get is the cabinet…









Now to figure out, in the absence of T&Gs, how to stabilize the horizontal runs of the panel. The plan is to friction fit a couple of dowels, dead-center, to each of the top and bottom rails to hold the panel in place from whatever front-to-back stress it may receive (like slamming drawers). Could use four slotted screws from the outside, but just can't bring myself to do it.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Placing the Backpanel*
> 
> With the back panel released from pipe-clamp jail and kinda-sorta smoothed with a #4, time to get it ready for fitting to the back of the carcase. What I want to do is get this panel inset into a groove planed (yes, with the #48!) inside said carcase so it floats in place / can expand and contract its little heart out. The panel will be 'tongued' on all four sides, so in order to get the 'un-tongued' dimensions right I first had to clamp the carcase tight to get a 'finished' inside dimension for the back panel.
> 
> ...


Looking very nice Smitty. I am sure you are proud of your project. As you should be. It is shaping up nicely. Could you pin it with some square walnut dowels on your panels and where you said you needed some screws.imho. Now to tell the truth I see your carcase sitting in my living room with a big screen on top and all my on the components stuffed in the shelves.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Placing the Backpanel*
> 
> With the back panel released from pipe-clamp jail and kinda-sorta smoothed with a #4, time to get it ready for fitting to the back of the carcase. What I want to do is get this panel inset into a groove planed (yes, with the #48!) inside said carcase so it floats in place / can expand and contract its little heart out. The panel will be 'tongued' on all four sides, so in order to get the 'un-tongued' dimensions right I first had to clamp the carcase tight to get a 'finished' inside dimension for the back panel.
> 
> ...


I am loving this build. Keep it up.

The walnut you are working with is great, it reminds me a lot of the stuff I have in my shop.


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## tsangell (Jan 10, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Placing the Backpanel*
> 
> With the back panel released from pipe-clamp jail and kinda-sorta smoothed with a #4, time to get it ready for fitting to the back of the carcase. What I want to do is get this panel inset into a groove planed (yes, with the #48!) inside said carcase so it floats in place / can expand and contract its little heart out. The panel will be 'tongued' on all four sides, so in order to get the 'un-tongued' dimensions right I first had to clamp the carcase tight to get a 'finished' inside dimension for the back panel.
> 
> ...


I'm enjoying it, too. I love the hand tool heavy approach.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Placing the Backpanel*
> 
> With the back panel released from pipe-clamp jail and kinda-sorta smoothed with a #4, time to get it ready for fitting to the back of the carcase. What I want to do is get this panel inset into a groove planed (yes, with the #48!) inside said carcase so it floats in place / can expand and contract its little heart out. The panel will be 'tongued' on all four sides, so in order to get the 'un-tongued' dimensions right I first had to clamp the carcase tight to get a 'finished' inside dimension for the back panel.
> 
> ...


@tsangell- Glad you enjoy the project, it's been fun. Thanks for reading!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Placing the Backpanel*
> 
> With the back panel released from pipe-clamp jail and kinda-sorta smoothed with a #4, time to get it ready for fitting to the back of the carcase. What I want to do is get this panel inset into a groove planed (yes, with the #48!) inside said carcase so it floats in place / can expand and contract its little heart out. The panel will be 'tongued' on all four sides, so in order to get the 'un-tongued' dimensions right I first had to clamp the carcase tight to get a 'finished' inside dimension for the back panel.
> 
> ...


great work!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Placing the Backpanel*
> 
> With the back panel released from pipe-clamp jail and kinda-sorta smoothed with a #4, time to get it ready for fitting to the back of the carcase. What I want to do is get this panel inset into a groove planed (yes, with the #48!) inside said carcase so it floats in place / can expand and contract its little heart out. The panel will be 'tongued' on all four sides, so in order to get the 'un-tongued' dimensions right I first had to clamp the carcase tight to get a 'finished' inside dimension for the back panel.
> 
> ...


@RG- I do like the way walnut responds to hand tools; it really is my favorite material but I'm anxious to do something in cherry, someday. I've read folks who prefer it over anything else…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Placing the Backpanel*
> 
> With the back panel released from pipe-clamp jail and kinda-sorta smoothed with a #4, time to get it ready for fitting to the back of the carcase. What I want to do is get this panel inset into a groove planed (yes, with the #48!) inside said carcase so it floats in place / can expand and contract its little heart out. The panel will be 'tongued' on all four sides, so in order to get the 'un-tongued' dimensions right I first had to clamp the carcase tight to get a 'finished' inside dimension for the back panel.
> 
> ...


@Super - OMG, I've built a TV cart???  Of course, things like this, if built well enough, are around long enough to get 'repurposed' many times. So, maybe it's not as far fetched as it first seems. You're a prophet, my friend! Thanks for commenting!


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Placing the Backpanel*
> 
> With the back panel released from pipe-clamp jail and kinda-sorta smoothed with a #4, time to get it ready for fitting to the back of the carcase. What I want to do is get this panel inset into a groove planed (yes, with the #48!) inside said carcase so it floats in place / can expand and contract its little heart out. The panel will be 'tongued' on all four sides, so in order to get the 'un-tongued' dimensions right I first had to clamp the carcase tight to get a 'finished' inside dimension for the back panel.
> 
> ...


Cherry is a treat too. I Like it all…except Mesquite which is my favorite Plane-making wood, and my least favorite wood to work.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Carcase Glue-Up*

You've heard of spot welding, as applies to metal? Well, the partitions in this cabinet are spot-glued, specifically with a brushed-out dab of glue at the leading edges of each. That should allow for movement with the seasons without cracking.

The partitions ride in matched dadoes that must be lined up right and drawn tight between four large panels that are glued at the dovetailed corners. Oh, and the back panel floats completely in grooves in the side panels with a 'button dowel' at top and bottom. (Sorry, no pictures of the hidden dowel trick, but I did it in the centers of the top and bottom rails to add lateral (?) strength. It took about 15 minutes to add them.
Spreading glue, holding pieces and placing clamps was all I had to do. Geez, the most stress I've felt in the shop in some time. And, wouldn't you know it, there aren't many pictures of actual glue! But what I have, I'll share. Besides that, glue you've seen! How about something you maybe haven't tried? To pull the dovetail joints together, I used what Robert Wearing would refer to as 'cramps;' I made them to match up with the dovetails using a 1" (I think) Forstner bit at the drill press.

Marking the cramps:


















Drilled and ready to apply:









One trick that I did before glue up also came from Wearing, more specifically an illustration in The Essential Woodworker. It showed slight bevels being planed against proud dovetails and pins to prevent blowout when smoothing the assembled carcase. I've (unfortunately) hit that end-grain blow out many times, so hopefully this does the trick. So I struck a line alongside the proud tails and marked the tops as being candidates for said beveling.


















When the carcase was apart, the lines were clear!









So I knocked off edges to a half dozen or so marks, then was ready for glue up!









All there is of glue actually being applied is a single shot of the first partition getting hit. 









Then adrenaline kicked in, the camera went bye-bye and the scramble to clamp within glue working time took place. I had my #3 son help me with the clamps. So, here it is after the whirlwind, moving from bottom to top then with all clamps!



























How'd the mitered corners look? Not bad. Here's one of them:









Once all was dry and all ten clamps were removed, I was anxious to dress the top of the carcase, where the beveling had been done. Here's the cabinet braced up against the bench, ready for work.









Applied mineral spirits and went to work. The contrasts are magnified by the mineral spirits, but the results were great!



























And, getting ahead of myself just slightly, here's a shot of the carcase on top of the bench, all glued up, with drawer fronts sticking in their respective openings. 









Cabinet is in final form, but looks kinda boring, don't you think? Now I'm thinking of hardware and final finish. Oh, and those pesky drawers aren't actually built…


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## tsangell (Jan 10, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-Up*
> 
> You've heard of spot welding, as applies to metal? Well, the partitions in this cabinet are spot-glued, specifically with a brushed-out dab of glue at the leading edges of each. That should allow for movement with the seasons without cracking.
> 
> ...


I'll say it again. I am really enjoying watching this come together. I just read the section on dovetailing a carcase in "The Essential Woodworker," so I am getting my Robert Wearing fix, too.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-Up*
> 
> You've heard of spot welding, as applies to metal? Well, the partitions in this cabinet are spot-glued, specifically with a brushed-out dab of glue at the leading edges of each. That should allow for movement with the seasons without cracking.
> 
> ...


@tsangell - Cool that it's tying in with your reading of "TEW;" interested in your take on the bevels cut aside the dovetails. It's only an illustration with a couple of words in his text, and it's after the dovetailing section. When I was dovetail practicing, the end grain blow out was a problem and I thought the only way to mitigate it would be to cut all pins and tails short of the mating surfaces. I like the way this worked out.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-Up*
> 
> You've heard of spot welding, as applies to metal? Well, the partitions in this cabinet are spot-glued, specifically with a brushed-out dab of glue at the leading edges of each. That should allow for movement with the seasons without cracking.
> 
> ...


You must have not been too nervous. I see that you paused to take a pic prior to clamping the bottom. I also am enjoying your build.

Tell me again what the mineral spirits do for you.

Interesting that "The Essential Woodworker" has come up alot lately. I may have to add this to my existing pile of woodworking books. It is expensive though.

Smitty - thanks for sharing.

Scott


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-Up*
> 
> You've heard of spot welding, as applies to metal? Well, the partitions in this cabinet are spot-glued, specifically with a brushed-out dab of glue at the leading edges of each. That should allow for movement with the seasons without cracking.
> 
> ...


Scott;

-But for the number of times I took this cabinet apart and put it back together during the build, I would have been screwed. Adding dowels at the last minute wasn't very smart, either, because it complicated things even more. Probably a better way to put it together, but the way I did it was stress… First squirt of glue, one pic, then brush-applied to the first end of one panel (not even mating pins yet) and it hit me how much glue had to be applied concurrently. With joints to be pulled together at once, the pics abrubtly stopped.

-http://www.lostartpress.com/catalog/cf1f3915-00f4-4498-b9ba-2ca623c4631b.aspx is where you can buy a new copy of TEW for $23. Maybe I should do a book review here on LJs; I really like this book.

-I read (and believe) that mineral spirits applied to end grain before planing makes cutting easier, with less splitting, while offering no residual effect on finishing.

Glad you're enjoying the blog!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-Up*
> 
> You've heard of spot welding, as applies to metal? Well, the partitions in this cabinet are spot-glued, specifically with a brushed-out dab of glue at the leading edges of each. That should allow for movement with the seasons without cracking.
> 
> ...


Concerning "TEW": my comment about the expense was based on a quick search that took me to the $100 out of print listing on Amazon. Now, I see that Schwarz and company reprinted the book last year. Fascinating story. I will definitely order it.


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## tsangell (Jan 10, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-Up*
> 
> You've heard of spot welding, as applies to metal? Well, the partitions in this cabinet are spot-glued, specifically with a brushed-out dab of glue at the leading edges of each. That should allow for movement with the seasons without cracking.
> 
> ...


TEW gets another recommendation from me. It has a great amount of hand tool "meat" on it's bones, and it is pretty thorough. There are times when my inexperience makes me think about what he is saying so that I can really understand it. It's one that I will probably read more than once, and refer to often.

@Smitty - he does mention beveling the dovetails on the backside. I think this is an ok solution if you don't overshoot on the bevel. I think leaving the tails shy and planing down the faces would be preferable, with a bit more planning (thicker stock.)

Yes, I meant "planning" not "planing," although that might also be true…


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-Up*
> 
> You've heard of spot welding, as applies to metal? Well, the partitions in this cabinet are spot-glued, specifically with a brushed-out dab of glue at the leading edges of each. That should allow for movement with the seasons without cracking.
> 
> ...


Very nice Smitty. And that is a great way to build a glue jig. Looking mighty tight and mighty nice. Great build, waiting to see it in use. Did you put any thought towards a hide away?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Carcase Glue-Up*
> 
> You've heard of spot welding, as applies to metal? Well, the partitions in this cabinet are spot-glued, specifically with a brushed-out dab of glue at the leading edges of each. That should allow for movement with the seasons without cracking.
> 
> ...


@Super - Thanks, and yes I have an idea for a hidden space in the cabinet. It involves The Big Drawer, and if it works (okay, even if I really attempt it) I will do a Bonus Entry when the cabinet is done…


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Drawer Faces*

The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.

Two pics of Operation #1 - rough fitting then trimmed up:


















And two of Operation #2, same thing only repeated:


















Of course, it's obvious that there's nothing set aside for The Big Drawer, the right-most opening, and there are a couple of reasons for that. First and foremost, the Donor Table is gone / used up / totally consumed and there's no solid material left for a larger drawer front. I have scavenged enough for a frame, though. Second, a solid wood front of that size probably wouldn't be a good idea anyway; too much stress / likely to crack over time or, even worse, warp and not fit square or flush. So it has to be a frame and panel job, and material is needed for the panel / insert.

Tried my hand at re-sawing some walnut scrap not big enough for frame material; etched a starter line at the table saw and then went at it with the bandsaw. That didn't work. Then free-hand, and that didn't work either. Face it, I suck at re-sawing; it's something that I need to improve on / buy the proper blade for, definitely, but not in the face of necessity. I need to keep viewing the posts of LJers that do this well, and learn more.

If push comes to shove, I can thickness easily with handplanes on a job this small, and pretty quickly too, so that's an option. Wouldn't run shorts like this through planer; that'd be silly. Looking at the inside of the door on the Traditional Bench in the shop, the floating panel is flush with the frame (it's recessed on the public side). I've seen that before, but in context of my Big Drawer problem it's something I'd like on the show side of the drawer, I think. Beefier material to mount a pull to and it means no more thicknessing of material down to less than 1/2". Ahh, working around our limitations is a very good thing sometimes! *Grin!* Thicker material means I can use the #48 to create the tongue that allows the face to ride flush with the front, if you know what I mean… Coming together!

I mentally put these issues aside and worked other things with the cabinet, specifically blog entries #s 4 through #11. I did plane up the faces of the drawer fronts I had and cut them to rough size at one point, likely to get them out of the way. Here's a pick of the first four drawer fronts just sticking into the cabinet (as seen in the Most Previous Episode of this Blog Series):










UPDATE: The Big Drawer is to the right in the above pic.

Once all other progress had come to a stand-still, pending drawer fronts, it was time to address The Big Drawer problem. The good news is, things fell in place. How? Long story short, I collect my cut-offs and send them over to a buddy who uses his back-yard fire pit a lot. He gets good, dry wood and I like that someone gets one last benefit out of the stuff I'm (finally) able to part with as unusable. Well, in doing cleanup for a fire pit re-stock I ran across a couple of long, narrow pieces of walnut left over from the panel cutting exercise that could be cross cut and glued up to panel size. Huzzah! Game on!

I laid out the frame pieces I'd already set aside, jointed them and did the now-familiar T&G work. The first picture below shows a nice groove worked into one of the rails. The second was taken while cutting a short tongue, and clearly shows how you know your #48 needs re-honing.



















So after some sharpening action on both #48 cutters, I was able to complete the frame without much effort at all; you've seen frame work on the backpanel anyway. So, it was on to the actual inset panel. And Oh, such a Wee Little Panel it seemed to be, having worked on the cabinet panels earlier in the project. Jointed the edges, glued them up, 









and clamped everything .









With the glue dry and clamps removed, I smoothed the face 'real nice.'




































Once it was sized up (and yes, this went without problem on all four sides this time, unlike the debacle w/ the floating backpanel) I used the still-freshly-sharpened tongue and groove plane (sharp = good) to ready it for fitting.


















The frame was dbl-checked for square, floating panel put in place, then glued up and clamped.









After the glue up and cure times had passed, I dressed the frame a bit. Looking good!









How 'bout a picture of the backside? Sure can tell how this thing came to be!









And the cabinet, under the bench, with drawer fronts set in place, ready for half-blind dovetails for the sides! 


















As always, thanks for looking!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


Smitty, it is coming along nicely. I have to admit that I was confused throughout, simply because I thought the 'Big Drawer' was actually the bottom drawer and there is clearly wood alotted. I see now that I assumed wrong. Yet, that begs the question -Are you really making a drawer or a cabinet door?

How are your drawer fronts staying put? Do you have a rabbet around the back so they fit in?

How did you deal with that tear out?

What is your plan for a finish? Just curious.

Still enjoying following along.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


WOW that is one great build. Your craftsmanship is wonderful. And a very detailed blog. Great stuff Smitty. I have enjoyed it very much. How about you let me hold that Stanley for a little while?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


@lysdexic - Sorry it was confusing, I've put an UPDATE in the text above so it's clearer for others from this point… The Big Drawer is indeed the one on the right, full height to the cabinet, and will be a drawer rather than a door. Crouching down and reaching to the back of a cabinet isn't as preferred as reaching down to a drawer that's pulled out. That's the thought, anyway. It's planned as the place for my #45 combo plane, with all parts. It's currently sitting on a shelf, far from the main work area, and that drives me nuts.

With The Big Drawer handling the #45, and the two upper Small Drawers holding chisels, I'm thinking maybe C-clamps, screwdrivers, bench stops, etc. for the larger, mid-sized pair of drawers. Maybe even a block plane or two. Lots of room about to become available, I just haven't gotten that far in the thought process re: filling them up. I'm sure it'll happen soon enough, though. 

In the pics, the drawer fronts are staying put because they're not trimmed for final fit. All edges and faces are hand-tooled, therefore not perfect / precise; setting them in place for a pic or two isn't a big deal, and I've left them just slightly big (they won't slide into their opening and get totally flush at the surface, for example). Once I have the sides, backs and bottoms done, I'll plane all inside surfaces and face edges to fit and slide nicely. At least that's the plan.

Funny thing, tear out w/ a #48. I'm thinking, Man, this stuff isn't going well, even with wax. Then it hit me that I hadn't done time at the sharpening station for awhile… After the picture was taken, I did the honing and ran another couple of passes on the tongue edge to clean it up. Luckily, all of the split wood was on the 'donor piece' that was clamped alongside for just such a purpose when planing end grain.

Finish at this point is likely to be Watkins, like my bench. That will bring out the color of the walnut, can be reapplied, is easy, etc. etc. I'm open to suggestions, but don't have sprayer and shellac has not been my friend…

@Super - Sure, you can handle the #48 anytime!  And I'm glad you like the build / pics / blog. It's nearly complete, and has been fun to do!


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


This is a great build. Seeing the shavings you made in all that walnut got me back on track on one of my projects (actually two), thanks.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


@RG - It's hard sometimes to stay in motion with some of these long builds, ain't it! Right now I'm making the drawers for this build and it's going real slow… four drawer side boards dovetailed, six to go, and then the backs and bottoms. I'm beginning to realize the best part of making drawers is getting them done!


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


My favorite part is fitting the bottoms. (which also means I am close to done)


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


@RG - you think 1/8" masonite is thick enough material for the 'gang of four' drawer bottoms? I'd go thicker for the Big Drawer…


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


If these were small I would say yes but these are fairly big drawers that are going to hold heavy steal. Do you have any wide poplar sitting around? Trust me, a solid wood drawer bottom is worth the extra effort. 3/8th to a 1/2 thick bottom beveled to fit into a 3/16th or 1/4 inch groove will be beefy enough that someone will appreciate the drawer look at the drawer long after you are gone.

1/4 is the thinnest I would go if I was using good hardboard, but I don't use it anymore.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


sigh…

Now I'm going to have to think on your points.

Solid wood = some instability over masonite. And more work on what should be the downhill run on this build. But your 'beefy' comment has appeal. For solid, I'd glue up the 1/2"x3" material I used for the backpanel insert to make bottoms. And then it's possible that only solid wood is required on The Big Drawer. It's got the #45. Maybe too the larger pair of drawers. Urg. Decisions, decisions…


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


Sorry to throw a wrench in your works. But honestly you have put so much work into the the other components of the build it would be a shame not do solid bottoms, you will appreciate them more.










And the bevels are an interesting challenge for your hand planes (when you figure out how to make the cross grain cuts smoothly I guarantee you will pat yourself on the back).

Have you started the joinery at all on the drawers? If so you are kind of committed to your original plan because there are definitely some design considerations when it comes to solid bottoms (think about the bevels)










If you have not done any joinery, cut your grooves in the drawers first (trust me on this) and size the back of the drawer so it just touches to the top of the groove (not like the picture above), that way you can secure the drawer with one screw (on a solid drawer you oversize the hole to allow for movement). If you put the groove in a location that it will fit the solid wood, then you can use the hardboard for now until you get a chance to get some nice wide stock for your drawer bottoms…a nice compromise, alder and poplar are the best species I know for this task, but any soft relatively stiff wood will do.

As far as instability goes, if you wanted to work a perfectly sound material you would be on the Metaljocks site; wood moves, get over it (thanks Tom Fidgen for that bit of needed wisdom).


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


@RG - Hey, if I wasn't ready for tough input, I wouldn't have asked. Your points are great.

Yes, I have done the sides to the two middle drawers already so it's too late to pre-groove those. But then, if I had pre-grooved, they wouldn't be in the right place for solid bottoms so I'll take it as a good thing.

Agree on the drawer back being single screw solution. I've done drawers up to this point that were total floats *because* they were masonite / stable. So solid + screw is new and I'm up for it.

I'll see what I can find for wider stock.

Finally, nice bevel work in the pics above! Well done, thanks for sharing.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


I wasn't too worried about offending. But I know what it's like to have someone mid project go "oh yeah you should…" and throw a rock into your brain-pan. I had this happen with my workbench and my sawbench when I read things that Christopher Schwarz wrote mid-project, I was eventually happy for the advice but, I could not help but mutterings something along the lines of "son of a…"

Thanks for the compliment. I do ok but here is a really fine example of what the bottom should look like.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


Sorry to back track on this blog but let me ask a question out of pure ignorance. Can you not use 1/2" Baltic birch plywood and bevel it down to fit a 1/4" groove for a drawer bottom. This seems like a good compromise.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


No problem on backtracking! I'm on the last two drawers, the smallesf ones at the top, and those I'm wanting to use a wood bottom panel instead of masonite / hardboard…


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


Still, does the plywood plan work? Are you going to use solid wood?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


I think good ply would work, actually. Best combo of strength and stability… Got the grooves cut as os today, so I guess now I'll search out some birch-type ply.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawer Faces*
> 
> The material for four of the drawer fronts had been identified and set aside when the dimensions of each drawer were pretty much set. Each of those came from the aprons of the donor table, looked quite scruffy, but cleaned up well on the face side. I did have to do some filler work on the insides of these pieces because of how they were 'purposed' on the Donor Table, specifically I cut blocks out of scrap walnut to fill cavities towards the bottom of each of two drawers so my drawer bottoms would have solid material to run through around the entire drawer. Didn't have to do a necessarily pretty job, so I didn't… I save extra effort for show sides / don't mind building in 'character' for others to find and ponder over in the way off future… And while patching up boards for use seems already like a pain in the arse, it's what must be done sometimes when used stuff is re-used.
> 
> ...


I would not bevel Baltic birch for ascetic reasons, but I would say that from a strength perspective you should be ok as long as you go with a good ply with lots for layers.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Drawers Sides, The Big Drawer*

An update only because getting the drawers built is taking so long and is fixin' to take awhile longer because shop time is giving way to quality family time.

For The Big Drawer, I've worked side dovetails by marking for thickness and depth…





































Then worked the half-blind pins …





































And stuck it in place, without a bottom, just because I was ready to see progress!










Five drawers to document in a future post, and I'm trying some different assembly methods based on an episode of The Woodwright's Shop I saw recently. Until I can get all the details completed, captured and blogged, keep the sawdust flying!


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## venicewoodworker (Mar 15, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawers Sides, The Big Drawer*
> 
> An update only because getting the drawers built is taking so long and is fixin' to take awhile longer because shop time is giving way to quality family time.
> 
> ...


Nice work.


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## dub560 (Jun 4, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawers Sides, The Big Drawer*
> 
> An update only because getting the drawers built is taking so long and is fixin' to take awhile longer because shop time is giving way to quality family time.
> 
> ...


Very nice


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawers Sides, The Big Drawer*
> 
> An update only because getting the drawers built is taking so long and is fixin' to take awhile longer because shop time is giving way to quality family time.
> 
> ...


Thanks to both of you for reading, and for the encouragement. Most appreciated!

The post isn't to the level of detail that I've done thusfar, but it'll be a couple weeks yet before this project wraps up and I can finish the series. Thanks to all for reading. I have come to the realization that I don't much like making drawers, though… I have built one before this project, and with these five it's clear that it's not my favorite part of a build. Funny thing is, I'm not sure why that is…


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawers Sides, The Big Drawer*
> 
> An update only because getting the drawers built is taking so long and is fixin' to take awhile longer because shop time is giving way to quality family time.
> 
> ...


Nice work Smitty. I may be as anxious as you to see the finished product. How are your Stanley 750's holding up?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawers Sides, The Big Drawer*
> 
> An update only because getting the drawers built is taking so long and is fixin' to take awhile longer because shop time is giving way to quality family time.
> 
> ...


I'm pretty much ready for completion… 750s are doing great. Still on initial honing and edges still sharp. Love 'em.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawers Sides, The Big Drawer*
> 
> An update only because getting the drawers built is taking so long and is fixin' to take awhile longer because shop time is giving way to quality family time.
> 
> ...


I thought the big one was a cabinet. Dude that is cool


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawers Sides, The Big Drawer*
> 
> An update only because getting the drawers built is taking so long and is fixin' to take awhile longer because shop time is giving way to quality family time.
> 
> ...


Are you going to use any type of drawer slides?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawers Sides, The Big Drawer*
> 
> An update only because getting the drawers built is taking so long and is fixin' to take awhile longer because shop time is giving way to quality family time.
> 
> ...


nice!

and yeah - sometimes we just want to put it together to get some gratification, cause especially for us - it's never really finished until 2 months after it's actually finished.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Drawers Sides, The Big Drawer*
> 
> An update only because getting the drawers built is taking so long and is fixin' to take awhile longer because shop time is giving way to quality family time.
> 
> ...


No drawer slides, just lots of wood with wax is all. Drawers fit in the openings that are solid wood, and since all is nice and swelled in the high humidy this summer, shouldn't stick once fitted. Worked on a couple of sides today, almost ready for next post… *whew*


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Gang of Four Drawers - Sides*

The Roubo Cabinet has been in work now since March. Weather is incredibly oppressive this month, with temps in Southern Illinois routinely in the mid-90s. And the humidity? As I'm fond of saying, "At least it's a wet heat…" My shop is not climate controlled so going inside to work lately means sweat to the point of dripping within the first 5 minutes. I wipe down tools a lot, and myself too. Yuck. But this project is still in OPEN status, so turn on the squirrel fan, turn up the radio and let's get cranking.

This Cabinet consists of five drawers: a Small Pair of drawers at the top; two Wide drawers under the Small Pair; and a single Big Drawer at the right side of the other four. Here's the original sketch as a reminder:










Lucky Part 13 of this series left off with the completion of sides to the Big Drawer, no back or bottom or glue up. The process I'm using to complete drawer backs and bottoms has been consistent across three of the drawers so far; I'm using half blind dovetails to join all sides to drawer fronts and simple dados in the sides hold the drawer backs in place. The drawer bottoms slide into 1/8" dados and surrounded on all four sides because the bottoms (so far) have been salvaged Masonite / hardboard.

The drawer sides are all made from reclaimed pine built-ins along an entire wall in a house getting renovated in a town nearby. I was fortunate to be able to pull these cabinets out before the owner took a crowbar to the works and make it all dumpster material. Here's a pic of the built-ins (the Roubo Cabinet drawer sides all come from the sides of the three very-high-up drawers in the center of the picture):










The simple way to set the height of the drawer sides was to set the rip fence of the table saw per the drawer fronts. I cut four sides and two backs for the Wide Drawers, then reset the fence and cut the same numbers for the Small Pair of drawers. *The saw is turned off - just setting the fence!*










All drawer side and drawer front pieces were marked for work.





































Each piece got bottom markings as well as location marks to tell me which pieces went to which opening in the cabinet, then I clamped up matching pairs of sides and marked / cut the dovetails. Because the pine was quite splintery when I worked up the Big Drawer, I went to my modern Stanley Gent's Dovetail Saw to make the cuts for the Gang of Four.




























Once the tails were transferred to the drawer fronts, I made those cuts then chopped out the waste.














































With a little bit of paring on the pin boards (my baselines typically need a little bit of work from front to back to get them nice and flat, but the tails are 'straight off the saw'), I was able to get everything looking pretty good. And note in these pictures that the Wide Pair feature half-tails while the Small Pair get half-pins. Why? Just because I saw an episode of the Woodwright's Shop where Roy recreated a toolbox with half-tails; he had a great time trying to figure out why the original builder would do it that way and I wanted to put some variation in my build so that someday, someone might try to 'figure out' why I did it that way, too… Silly, right?




























With the sides-to-fronts joinery complete, time to get groovy (for the bottoms). For the sides I was able to use the #45 with 1/8" cutter:



















For the fronts, I used my shaper because of the need for stopped cuts (plow planes don't do that very well…)



















All of the drawer side pieces ran long, meaning a 'final' cut to length was needed. A necessary first step was to plane each of them to fit height-wise with a #4 Smoother (recall that the carcase is solid wood, front to back, and the inside surfaces aren't finished surfaces). I then marked each and used a combination square to transfer the cutline to the back of each board. Did the cuts on the bench hook with a 14" sash saw.














































I say 'final' in quotes because I expect to do one more cut to set each drawer just so when I get to final finish work.

So at this point I'd typically end the post with a nice pic of the work as it it sits… Well, this ain't gonna be a typical post. Right now, as I'm typing this, the Cabinet is at a mixed level of completion and I want to clean up my write-up to match up with all the process pics. So there are more updates coming as I wrap this up. Next updates will include 'how I do it' details on placing backs to these drawers, as well as a presentation of drawer bottom materials used. Then there's handle selection and placement, final drawer fitting, smoothing the entire carcase, and applying finish. Whew! Why does it seem that I have so much further to go when we've gotten so much done already??? As always, Thanks for Reading!


----------



## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Gang of Four Drawers - Sides*
> 
> The Roubo Cabinet has been in work now since March. Weather is incredibly oppressive this month, with temps in Southern Illinois routinely in the mid-90s. And the humidity? As I'm fond of saying, "At least it's a wet heat…" My shop is not climate controlled so going inside to work lately means sweat to the point of dripping within the first 5 minutes. I wipe down tools a lot, and myself too. Yuck. But this project is still in OPEN status, so turn on the squirrel fan, turn up the radio and let's get cranking.
> 
> ...


It is HOT and HUMID on this side of St. Claire river as well. I thought there was something wrong with me, pick up my hammer and I am sweating all day ?, My wife just kept saying its the humidity. I grew up in WEST, we had DRY heat.
Well at least you take photo's as you are building. I get wrapped up in the building and always FORGET the pictures till it is completed.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Gang of Four Drawers - Sides*
> 
> The Roubo Cabinet has been in work now since March. Weather is incredibly oppressive this month, with temps in Southern Illinois routinely in the mid-90s. And the humidity? As I'm fond of saying, "At least it's a wet heat…" My shop is not climate controlled so going inside to work lately means sweat to the point of dripping within the first 5 minutes. I wipe down tools a lot, and myself too. Yuck. But this project is still in OPEN status, so turn on the squirrel fan, turn up the radio and let's get cranking.
> 
> ...


Hey Smitty it as hot if not hotter up in Northern Illinois as well but I'm not complaining I keep reminding myself whats ahead after fall…lol Nice use of reclaim lumber enjoy the tunes and the great weather stay hydrated your friend in woodworking….Wilson aka Blkcherry


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Gang of Four Drawers - Sides*
> 
> The Roubo Cabinet has been in work now since March. Weather is incredibly oppressive this month, with temps in Southern Illinois routinely in the mid-90s. And the humidity? As I'm fond of saying, "At least it's a wet heat…" My shop is not climate controlled so going inside to work lately means sweat to the point of dripping within the first 5 minutes. I wipe down tools a lot, and myself too. Yuck. But this project is still in OPEN status, so turn on the squirrel fan, turn up the radio and let's get cranking.
> 
> ...


@Chips - If it weren't for it being so easy to take pictures with my phone, I certainly wouldn't do it. There is something to be said for capturing progress, though. Pretty neat to be able to review the steps of a project.

@Cherry - Decent reclaimed wood is just so much better in quality than what I otherwise could use, it just makes sense. Hardest part is getting enough of the same stuff to do a whole project. The built-ins sure did get me lots of 3/4" and 1/2" pine. The 1/2" stuff is clear, with the others being 'construction grade' from 40+ years ago (better than construction grade by today's standards…)


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Gang of Four Drawers - Sides*
> 
> The Roubo Cabinet has been in work now since March. Weather is incredibly oppressive this month, with temps in Southern Illinois routinely in the mid-90s. And the humidity? As I'm fond of saying, "At least it's a wet heat…" My shop is not climate controlled so going inside to work lately means sweat to the point of dripping within the first 5 minutes. I wipe down tools a lot, and myself too. Yuck. But this project is still in OPEN status, so turn on the squirrel fan, turn up the radio and let's get cranking.
> 
> ...


I liked seeing some of the tarnished tools. I love it when they get some miles on them, that's when you know they are gems.

The half tail was a fun choice and you will mess with someones mind in the future. Keep up the good work and I hope to see a tour a few months from now on how the drawers fill up.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Gang of Four Drawers - Sides*
> 
> The Roubo Cabinet has been in work now since March. Weather is incredibly oppressive this month, with temps in Southern Illinois routinely in the mid-90s. And the humidity? As I'm fond of saying, "At least it's a wet heat…" My shop is not climate controlled so going inside to work lately means sweat to the point of dripping within the first 5 minutes. I wipe down tools a lot, and myself too. Yuck. But this project is still in OPEN status, so turn on the squirrel fan, turn up the radio and let's get cranking.
> 
> ...


Thanks for taking the time to share this.

Do the corrugated sole on your plane bother you? I have read some here on lumberjocks poo-poo corrugated bottoms because they collect shavings and saw dust. Just don't know if a really should be avoiding those on my ebay searches.

Your use of reclaimed wood is honorable.

Your weather is the same as I have here in the Carolinas-since May.

Scott


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Gang of Four Drawers - Sides*
> 
> The Roubo Cabinet has been in work now since March. Weather is incredibly oppressive this month, with temps in Southern Illinois routinely in the mid-90s. And the humidity? As I'm fond of saying, "At least it's a wet heat…" My shop is not climate controlled so going inside to work lately means sweat to the point of dripping within the first 5 minutes. I wipe down tools a lot, and myself too. Yuck. But this project is still in OPEN status, so turn on the squirrel fan, turn up the radio and let's get cranking.
> 
> ...


I mix and match in my shop. I have never had a problem with the corrugation clogging. The claims that they reduce friction are bogus though.

Here is the benefit, they are easier to lap if they go out of true, and they are resistant to getting scratches in them from particulate, (a consideration if you work with salvage wood at all).


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Gang of Four Drawers - Sides*
> 
> The Roubo Cabinet has been in work now since March. Weather is incredibly oppressive this month, with temps in Southern Illinois routinely in the mid-90s. And the humidity? As I'm fond of saying, "At least it's a wet heat…" My shop is not climate controlled so going inside to work lately means sweat to the point of dripping within the first 5 minutes. I wipe down tools a lot, and myself too. Yuck. But this project is still in OPEN status, so turn on the squirrel fan, turn up the radio and let's get cranking.
> 
> ...


@RG - The tools, as we both know, are over half the fun when making stuff like this. No feeling quite matches running these antiques through their paces. As for the tarnish, I'm simply too lazy and unskilled to remove it, so I decided long ago to love them as they are. I'm so looking forward to stocking this bad boy; think of this cabinet and the bench as a soon-to-be 300lb tool chest.

@Scott - RE: Corrugated soles and planes. I read once they were more sought after by collectors because there weren't as many made. I'm not a collector, so that isn't why I have them (I recall that there's a 5C, 7C and 8C in the plane till at present). I have them because they were available in the right price range and of the Types I prefer (T13 or T14 SW). What I can say about the corrugations first-hand is they kind of make it more difficult to sight an emerging blade when fettling the planes in the upside-down position. More shadow lines, if that makes sense. But, it's a really non-issue to me because, once set, the planes are fine / not noticed shavings and/or saw dust. And come to think of it, how would sawdust get under a handplane in use?  Bottom line, I wouldn't avoid one on ebay for the perceived shortcomings you've run across because I haven't experienced either of them.

OH, and as for what RG pointed out, I second the notion that the friction benefit claim is pretty much bogus. Occassionally applying wax to the bottom of an iron bench plane does wonders, though.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Gang of Four Drawers - Sides*
> 
> The Roubo Cabinet has been in work now since March. Weather is incredibly oppressive this month, with temps in Southern Illinois routinely in the mid-90s. And the humidity? As I'm fond of saying, "At least it's a wet heat…" My shop is not climate controlled so going inside to work lately means sweat to the point of dripping within the first 5 minutes. I wipe down tools a lot, and myself too. Yuck. But this project is still in OPEN status, so turn on the squirrel fan, turn up the radio and let's get cranking.
> 
> ...


@3 - Thanks for reading and for the comments. Matching up those boards to do the cuts is something I'm always happy I 'remember' to do (it's not habit just yet). Sure is a nice touch on matching drawer sides, and I agree it would have been a time saver on the top and bottom boards you were working. I hate measuring, too, and matching them would have killed half of that perhaps. Next time, right?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Hardware*

Q: What do you call a drawer that doesn't open?
A: Rework.

Okay, lame joke but it's a decent intro to the challenge of finding drawer pulls for this Roubo Cabinet of mine. Design constraints? Not many, but they're important ones.

1. Stout enough to work on drawers full of tools (potentially heavy)
2. Aesthetically in sync with the cabinet (I'll know it when I see it)
3. Hardware can't stick out / interfere with the sliding deadman

First thing I thought of were those wildly understated (but cool looking) round pulls; you know, the kind that seem to be inside tool chests these days. A close second was round porcelain knobs. Other choices included recessed bail pulls, regular handle pulls and plain old wooden knobs. I'm sure I have the names for all of these things wrong, but that's part of the dilemma. I can't get what I can't describe.

I do have wooden pulls scavenged over the past several years, but they're oak and I'd rather not introduce a new type of wood (FAIL, Point 2). I found brass pulls at a flea market and bought the pair, but then figured consistency was important (FAIL, Point 2). Then I bought (for $2) a pair of small porcelain pulls and matched them up with recessed pulls my dad had on hand. Ah, a possibility here!









A big dislike was the uber-shininess of the recessed pulls (FAIL, Point 2). Who wants chrome on their bench? Not me. So I tried to 'stress' them. First I heated them up with a torch. No go. Then soaked the lot of them in white vinegar for a week. Still shiny. Then I tried sandblasting them, just so they wouldn't shine so darned much. Well, when I did that, the pull portion of the hardware came free from the backs way too easily. Damaged goods, not durable… (FAIL, Points 1 and 2). Urg.

On to the catalogs. Most diverse collection of pulls was in the Van ********************'s on line store, and here's what I settled on:


















Seeing the range of prices for pulls and other assorted hardware was a real eye opener. What I got was modest compared to what was out there, let me tell you. Of course, for those who may read this that are 'in the business' of building custom cabinetry, I'm not telling you anything you didn't already know.

To mount the pulls on the Gang of Four only meant to keep them vertically aligned. Found the center of the Small Pair to set the positions there for each pull, then lined up the ones for the Big Pair and all was good.

Measurements were set and repeated with combination square and large-ish divider…


















and squares only on the Big Drawer:


















From that point, used a center punch tool to mark screw locations on each drawer face. Wood screws (Slotted! Yay!) sent with the pulls were stressed to match, but were too long. The bench grinder fixed that, though. Punch, Drill and Drive, I say!!



























So where are we now with the cabinet?
I owe you an entry on drawer assembly that will recap what's been done AND include what will be done to finish the Small Pair, but with hardware installed on 60% of the project, this is the cabinet today:



















Three more posts and this epic project will be complete and I'll (finally!) be able to load it up with tools. Oh, how nice that will be! As always, thanks for reading.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hardware*
> 
> Q: What do you call a drawer that doesn't open?
> A: Rework.
> ...


Regrets for the strange camera angles that are in the pics above; Photobucket misbehaving again OR it's another user training issue. Hope to correct the final couple of pictures, anyway; they're most important.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hardware*
> 
> Q: What do you call a drawer that doesn't open?
> A: Rework.
> ...


Those appear robust and sturdy. Also, they go very well with the style and color of the bench. Certainly goes along with your taste in vintage tools.
Great post.

So, you have the drawer bottoms done?


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hardware*
> 
> Q: What do you call a drawer that doesn't open?
> A: Rework.
> ...


The other knobs/pulls are simply a No-Go IMO.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hardware*
> 
> Q: What do you call a drawer that doesn't open?
> A: Rework.
> ...


Ahhh, pictures have self corrected!

Thanks, Scott, for the comments. I had a hard time finding something right and it meant something now that I've put all the time into the build. Call it age, wear or patina, but I really connect with quality, old tools that work wood and pulls that appeared that way was pure Bonus!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hardware*
> 
> Q: What do you call a drawer that doesn't open?
> A: Rework.
> ...


Small Pair are as you see them in the last pic- not done. We're real time.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hardware*
> 
> Q: What do you call a drawer that doesn't open?
> A: Rework.
> ...


those pulls look so much better than shiny chrome - nice choice


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hardware*
> 
> Q: What do you call a drawer that doesn't open?
> A: Rework.
> ...


Great choice.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hardware*
> 
> Q: What do you call a drawer that doesn't open?
> A: Rework.
> ...


every time I come to this post and begin to quickly scroll down those two porcelain knobs look like 2 eyeballs looking at me. I have scroll back real just to remember what they are.

Just thought that I would add something meaningful to the blog.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Hardware*
> 
> Q: What do you call a drawer that doesn't open?
> A: Rework.
> ...


Thanks, everyone for the feedback!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Final Assembly - Drawer Backs, Bottoms and Fitting*

This is the last post required to complete the build and make ready for applying the finish of my choice to get this one in the books. Once all the drawer fronts have been joined to the sides, and those cut to rough length, I had to work on adding backs to the drawers as well as bottoms. All drawer backs were set into simple dados that were cut on the table saw.



















For the Big Drawer as well as the Big Pair of drawers, the drawer bottom consists of a single piece of repurposed hardboard, or what I grew up calling Masonite. I had to cut it square, and used a simple rip fence / jig with the trim saw to get edges that were straight and square. The material fit in the tracks just fine.


















The bottoms on the Small Pair had to be wood panels (because RG talked me into it) so the backs, while still in a simple dado, weren't channeled for a fully enclosed bottom like the other drawers were. I wanted the grain to run across the panel for stability, so a quick glue up of my pine 'drawer sides' donor material was required. That was simple enough, you've seen panel glue ups - so no need to go into detail here. With my drawer bottom panel in one piece, three more actions were required:
1. Flatten the material on both sides 
2. Cut to rough size
3. Apply bevels with the #78 to run in the side grooves

Did it happen? Yes.






















































The raised, underside portion of the bottoms were proud of the side rails, so I had to do some additional thicknessing. 









And, just for fun, here's what my bench in work looked like at the time









I had stopped dados on the Small Pair so some final chiseling was required.


















They're IN, just need backs and final fitting. Bookcase drawer bottoms - COOL!









Backs in. This is coming together!









A few pictures to tell the glue-up story:






















































Check for square…








And we're Golden.









Lots of trim work-









Mounted the last pair of handles, and finally the cabinet is built!



























I'll do some final smoothing at the carcase dovetails, apply a simple finish and be ready post this bad boy as a Completed Project. Oh, the lifecycle of a shop build here on LJs!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Final Assembly - Drawer Backs, Bottoms and Fitting*
> 
> This is the last post required to complete the build and make ready for applying the finish of my choice to get this one in the books. Once all the drawer fronts have been joined to the sides, and those cut to rough length, I had to work on adding backs to the drawers as well as bottoms. All drawer backs were set into simple dados that were cut on the table saw.
> 
> ...


this cabinet looks great, and adds so much storage that is always appreciated. nice design!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Final Assembly - Drawer Backs, Bottoms and Fitting*
> 
> This is the last post required to complete the build and make ready for applying the finish of my choice to get this one in the books. Once all the drawer fronts have been joined to the sides, and those cut to rough length, I had to work on adding backs to the drawers as well as bottoms. All drawer backs were set into simple dados that were cut on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Thanks, PurpLev!


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Final Assembly - Drawer Backs, Bottoms and Fitting*
> 
> This is the last post required to complete the build and make ready for applying the finish of my choice to get this one in the books. Once all the drawer fronts have been joined to the sides, and those cut to rough length, I had to work on adding backs to the drawers as well as bottoms. All drawer backs were set into simple dados that were cut on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Beastly Man Smitty, it turn out great and the patina makes it old world looking. All your pic's were hand tool inspiration, nice looking collection and your bench shows how useful these legends of woodworking are still handy tool to have in today's shop. Thanks for taking the time to show your talents and the use of these timeless beauty's ...Wilson


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Final Assembly - Drawer Backs, Bottoms and Fitting*
> 
> This is the last post required to complete the build and make ready for applying the finish of my choice to get this one in the books. Once all the drawer fronts have been joined to the sides, and those cut to rough length, I had to work on adding backs to the drawers as well as bottoms. All drawer backs were set into simple dados that were cut on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Wilson - Those words are very much appreciated, glad you've enjoyed the posts. The last three pics show 'smudges' on the faces of several drawers that are actually sweaty handprints due to the intense Summer 2011 heat. I think I may leave them rather than plane them out before applying final finish. At this point, it is what it is!


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Final Assembly - Drawer Backs, Bottoms and Fitting*
> 
> This is the last post required to complete the build and make ready for applying the finish of my choice to get this one in the books. Once all the drawer fronts have been joined to the sides, and those cut to rough length, I had to work on adding backs to the drawers as well as bottoms. All drawer backs were set into simple dados that were cut on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Yes seal'em in, "Perspiration of Success " your own personal signature…lol great blog…Blkchery


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Final Assembly - Drawer Backs, Bottoms and Fitting*
> 
> This is the last post required to complete the build and make ready for applying the finish of my choice to get this one in the books. Once all the drawer fronts have been joined to the sides, and those cut to rough length, I had to work on adding backs to the drawers as well as bottoms. All drawer backs were set into simple dados that were cut on the table saw.
> 
> ...


very nice work I like how you have storage and the sliding support. Sorry I forget what it's called, I like how it's all functional.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Final Assembly - Drawer Backs, Bottoms and Fitting*
> 
> This is the last post required to complete the build and make ready for applying the finish of my choice to get this one in the books. Once all the drawer fronts have been joined to the sides, and those cut to rough length, I had to work on adding backs to the drawers as well as bottoms. All drawer backs were set into simple dados that were cut on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Superb. Again thanks for taking the time to share this with us. Once, my skills are appropriate I fully intend to build a roubo bench a la Schwarz. Yet, with imitation being the most sincere form of flattery, I fully intend to outfit the bench with cabinet like yours.


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## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Final Assembly - Drawer Backs, Bottoms and Fitting*
> 
> This is the last post required to complete the build and make ready for applying the finish of my choice to get this one in the books. Once all the drawer fronts have been joined to the sides, and those cut to rough length, I had to work on adding backs to the drawers as well as bottoms. All drawer backs were set into simple dados that were cut on the table saw.
> 
> ...


I have enjoyed this series, you did a nice job with it. I wasn't sure about a cabinet under there but you've kept it low enough to not interfere with anything that is going on. You'll be brushing shavings off it, tho.! I just let the shavings gather up on my shelf and equipment, not a good solution. After my current project, a clock, I'm going to take some time a do some shop/tool storage improvement … you've given me inspiration.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Final Assembly - Drawer Backs, Bottoms and Fitting*
> 
> This is the last post required to complete the build and make ready for applying the finish of my choice to get this one in the books. Once all the drawer fronts have been joined to the sides, and those cut to rough length, I had to work on adding backs to the drawers as well as bottoms. All drawer backs were set into simple dados that were cut on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Glad you went with solid wood. Wasn't doing the bevels fun?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Final Assembly - Drawer Backs, Bottoms and Fitting*
> 
> This is the last post required to complete the build and make ready for applying the finish of my choice to get this one in the books. Once all the drawer fronts have been joined to the sides, and those cut to rough length, I had to work on adding backs to the drawers as well as bottoms. All drawer backs were set into simple dados that were cut on the table saw.
> 
> ...


@Blackcherry - Sealed in and permanent! Thanks, buddy!
@bigike - Thanks! Sliding deadman. Yes, it works and just clears the front of the cabinet, with 203 clamps along for the ride (those stick through some, not an issue though). 
@lysdexic - Go for it, don't wait!  Oh, and Post It so we can follow along!
@3finger - Thank you for the great feedback. Now, I get to put stuff in it / enjoy the build for a while!
@kenn - I can use my hold downs on material as thin as 1/2" without hitting the top of the cabinet, and can't think yet of a clamping application that would be impeded by the cabinet. I think this will work just fine, and glad you enjoyed the series!
@RG - Yes, doing the bevels was really a lot of fun. I'm glad you stayed on me to do at least a couple drawers that way, and it's kinda cool that there's some variety in how the drawers were constructed. I get a kick out of that kind of thing.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Finish Applied, Final Entry*

Two snapshots is all there is for this entry. Pulled the cabinet out of its cubby below the workbench and set it on top for an applied finish.










I've thought for awhile there were some proud dovetail joints needing some final attention, but decided all was good. Finish consisted of a single coat of boiled linseed oil, which I will reapply this fall when my entire bench is due for a refresher coat of Watco's. Started wiping the first drawer, big smile on my face. I was amazed / truly didn't realize the impact it would have on the now-very-familiar look of this old walnut…










Is it too good for shop furniture? *Nah!!* Under the bench it goes!

Regarding this blog series, which officially ends today, here's a recap: 344 pictures and the document containing all the blog entries is over 5,800 words. It's been a lot of work, but it's been fun. Thanks very, very much to everyone who took the time to comment, because your input / observations are appreciated. Feedback is what makes LJs a real community. See ya later!


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## tsangell (Jan 10, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Finish Applied, Final Entry*
> 
> Two snapshots is all there is for this entry. Pulled the cabinet out of its cubby below the workbench and set it on top for an applied finish.
> 
> ...


Thanks so much for blogging this! I have enjoyed the series.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Finish Applied, Final Entry*
> 
> Two snapshots is all there is for this entry. Pulled the cabinet out of its cubby below the workbench and set it on top for an applied finish.
> 
> ...


Now that's a storage unit Smitty one to be proud of for sure! Also a great home to preserve the fine collection of hand tool you've collected over the years. Thanks for taking the time and letting us enjoy our commend interest, that's working the wood…Wilson


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## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Finish Applied, Final Entry*
> 
> Two snapshots is all there is for this entry. Pulled the cabinet out of its cubby below the workbench and set it on top for an applied finish.
> 
> ...


Nice blog, even better cabinet. Too good for the shop? No way, the shop deserves the best!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Finish Applied, Final Entry*
> 
> Two snapshots is all there is for this entry. Pulled the cabinet out of its cubby below the workbench and set it on top for an applied finish.
> 
> ...


Smitty sorry I haven't been around for the finish of this fine piece of shop furniture. Your grandchildren will enjoy storing tools in it. And they will have the blog to reflect upon to remember the care you placed in building it. 
The walnut pops with the oil on it. Great job. And well done!
Whats next?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Finish Applied, Final Entry*
> 
> Two snapshots is all there is for this entry. Pulled the cabinet out of its cubby below the workbench and set it on top for an applied finish.
> 
> ...


that is a beauty!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Finish Applied, Final Entry*
> 
> Two snapshots is all there is for this entry. Pulled the cabinet out of its cubby below the workbench and set it on top for an applied finish.
> 
> ...


@Super- Welcome back, my friend! I saw you re-appear yesterday and was sure glad to see it. Try not to stay away so long next time, okay?

Thanks for checking in, those are some nice words on the cabinet. It's been stocked with measuring tools in the top right drawer (stick rules, four-fold rules, tape measure and marking gauges), striking/cutting tools in the top left (three hammers of different sizes, nail sets and utility knives), chisels and rasps in the middle drawer (everlastings, mutt and jeff pieces, saw files and set, etc) and egg beaters, panel gauge, bits and assorted drivers in the bottom drawer. The Big Drawer has the #45 (with iron sets), the SW chisel roll and a sliding tray that carries my exactos, marking knife and wax for the planes. It works great!

Next? I've completed the build of a partition wall that creates a very specific woodworking area in my shop building. Needed a smaller footprint I could heat and (possibly) cool. The overall building is 44' wide by 30' deep; the woodshop is now a third of that. Along the new wall I'll build a long station for my RAS, with lumber rack overhead and cubbies everywhere for everthing else. Bought a stash of cherry, walnut, hickory and some oak in the spring, just now am getting it off the floor into another lumber rack that was full of dimension stock. SO, in a couple words, busy work.

Helping #1 son with a HS woodshop project, and that's been fun. Of course, his instructor is suprised that the work is coming into school hand-planed.  I've offered to recondition / tune / fettle the three planes the school has, so I 'spect those will come home this week for me to work on. All good stuff!

Again, welcome back!

And PurpLev, thanks! You do great work, btw!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Finish Applied, Final Entry*
> 
> Two snapshots is all there is for this entry. Pulled the cabinet out of its cubby below the workbench and set it on top for an applied finish.
> 
> ...


All good news Smitty. There are still planes in school. Dennis says his child, Silke is studying Sloyd. 
.
Your shop is huge. Mine is 192 sq feet .With some loft space. But it is mine. It works out fine for a bench and a bunch of hand tools.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Finish Applied, Final Entry*
> 
> Two snapshots is all there is for this entry. Pulled the cabinet out of its cubby below the workbench and set it on top for an applied finish.
> 
> ...


You know, guys (like you) who put out fine work in such small shops put alot of pressure on guys like me. It raises the bar to use every square foot. It's also one of the things I looked at before deciding I could do with a woodshop the size I've defined now. Just have to make it more efficient than it is, and that's the tough part!


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## Cantputjamontoast (Jan 1, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Finish Applied, Final Entry*
> 
> Two snapshots is all there is for this entry. Pulled the cabinet out of its cubby below the workbench and set it on top for an applied finish.
> 
> ...


The only thing I can say is WOW.

And thank you I very much, enjoyed that whole series.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Finish Applied, Final Entry*
> 
> Two snapshots is all there is for this entry. Pulled the cabinet out of its cubby below the workbench and set it on top for an applied finish.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Jam - You actually read the whole series? I'm impressed as well.  It was fun, glad it's still relevant, as things get buried pretty quickly here on LJs.


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## laketrout36 (Nov 7, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Finish Applied, Final Entry*
> 
> Two snapshots is all there is for this entry. Pulled the cabinet out of its cubby below the workbench and set it on top for an applied finish.
> 
> ...


That's a nice addition to your shop. And something to be proud of.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Finish Applied, Final Entry*
> 
> Two snapshots is all there is for this entry. Pulled the cabinet out of its cubby below the workbench and set it on top for an applied finish.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Trout!


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