# Compact size works well on smaller lathe *updated*



## lumberjoe

As far as the "not cutting", think of the rougher kind of like a parting tool. You need to find the bevel. As you turn the piece down, you may have to take your toolrest down (I know I usually do). When you don't want a parting tool to cut, you can do this on purpose by rubbing the bevel to see where your part will be. Then you decrease the angle of the tool and it starts cutting. You can't decrease the angle of the rougher though - only adjust the height.

Also, contrary to what a lot of people will have you believe, these inserts are not disposable. Get yourself a decent diamond stone. When you are ready to chuck the insert, rub it on the stone with the flat side down. Unless you have nicks, you will have a fresh cutting edge.


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## wormil

My experiments with adjusting the tool height anywhere but centered didn't work out well. Too low and I get a lot of catches, too high and the tool won't cut. Probably my issue with not cutting is related to having the tool angled and not realizing it even though I think I'm level. Thanks for the tip on the diamond stone, I'll shop around for one.

It occurs to me that a traditional tool rest is not really ideal for this style of cutter. A traditional rest is designed for adjusting the bevel but a wider rest would be beneficial with carbide tools.

One other thing I should have mentioned in the review. The chips really fly off this thing. At faster speeds I get a bunch of little cuts on my fingers or hand, like paper cuts. I'm definitely looking into a little lexan shield that attaches to the tool or maybe making one from plexi.


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## Kreegan

I have one of Cap'n Eddie's carbide tools, with the same cutters you have, the flat rougher and round finisher. I've found with the rougher that I get the best results with the tool rest set below center and holding the tool approximately 3-5 degrees angled down. I have a set of round tool rests from PSI and they definitely seem to work best for these tools, much better than your traditional angled style tool rests.


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## lumberjoe

I was going to say the same thing. Slightly south of center. If you have a tool rest that is angled up, it's not doing you a lot of favors with the rougher. Either a flat rest or a round bar is much better.

Just remember the tool is cutting when the wood strikes the top the cutter. If you are hitting the bevel on the bottom of the cutter head it is just going to rub.


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## lumberjoe

Also you don't need to spend a fortune on diamond stones. This set is really all you need and it's $23

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005910/18131/DMT-Dia-Sharp-25-Diamond-Offset-Mini-hone,-Kit.aspx

I use the fine (it comes with coarse, fine, and extra fine). They are handy to have anyway for sharpening forstner bits and other small sharp stuff.


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## wormil

Rich, you like the Cap'n Eddie tool as much as the Easy Wood? Or have you tried them both? I looked at those but the website and ordering options were a bit confusing.

Unfortunately I can't easily adjust my tool post height. It's a shop made rest and I have to add or remove spacers for adjustment.


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## Kreegan

I have not used the full sized Easy Wood tools, but have use their mini ones that are intended for pens and such at a Rockler demo. The EWT tools definitely have more polish and finish and look more professional, but the ones from Cap'n Eddie cut just as well. I agree that the way his products are listed on the site is confusing. I ended up buying his 44 Magnum kit, comes with the rougher and smoother cutters and a bar, then I just turned a handle for it and epoxied the bar in.


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## ScrubPlane

Thanks to those who posted regarding sharpening the bits…I bought this line simply because my skills at sharpening, although improving, are limited to chisels and plane blades.

That said…does anyone know if there is a 'off line' of manufacturers for the EWT cutters???

thanks…


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## lumberjoe

These really couldn't be any easier to sharpen. Buy this for 10$.

Remove your cutter. 
Place it upside down on the diamond hone (so the flat part is touching the hone)
Rub it back and forth 3 times (6 strokes)
Reinstall in the tool and enjoy the 21$ you just saved.

I am now on my 6th sharpening for my rougher insert and I still have plenty more to go


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## wormil

Joe, I ended up buying a diamond hone but haven't tried sharpening the carbide yet. Will try it very soon though.

Review updated. I downgraded the tools because the carbides were definitely dull.


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## wormil

So I did sharpen the square cutter on the diamond plate and it cut better but is still not what I would consider "sharp". I placed it top down and ran it back and forth with my finger, I did not try to sharpen the angled edges.


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## lumberjoe

did you lubricate it with water? It makes a big difference. Carbide is nasty and dirty. the ground off carbide will turn your fine stone into extra coarse if you don't wash the shavings away


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## wormil

No I didn't. Someone had told me not to use oil and I didn't even think of using water. I'll give it a good scrubbing with water and a toothbrush and try again sometime.


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## lumberjoe

also be sure to cover the whole top in sharpie. keep sharpening until the sharpie is gone


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## wormil

Yeah I did that, it only took seconds to scour the top to a bright new surface.


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## knotsburls

Try our cutters available at *www.knotsburls.com/kiliantools* ; nanograde cutters for $9 & $10. AND they are sharp!!!


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## Belg1960

How far does the bar extend from the handle on these, plz? Pat


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## wormil

About 4.5", from memory


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## Belg1960

Thanks Rick, managed to find it on line, its only 3.5.


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