# Homemade Router table extension wing question



## choa (Aug 15, 2012)

So i just ordered a router plate from rockler. my plan is to mount it on the left wing of my table saw. i plan on using a high end CNC mill to cut out the hole for the plate in my cast iron. the question i have is after i leave the ledge will it still be thick/strong enough. i will have roughly 1/8" thick of iron left for support the plate plus router. also do u think it would compromise the strength of the overall wing?

additional info:
router plate dimensions 8-1/4" x 11-3/4" x .25" 
table saw extension wing 27" x 12" x ~.36" 
router being used Bosh 1617

-Nick
EDIT: 
finished product is here 
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/83077


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## bluekingfisher (Mar 30, 2010)

Brave move Nick although I should think the remaining material should be enough to support the base plate and router. Remember, the weight of the unit will be spread across the area of the lip over its entire surface, it could probably take your weight. There are store available wings with the exact same set up available so if its safe for them should be OK for you.

Good luck.

David


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## MarkDavisson (Apr 26, 2009)

Nick, I think your plan is a good one.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

A router plate is around 1/4" to 3/8" thick. I doubt that the CI wing on your saw is that thick. It may not even be thick enough to maintain a flush surface. I base this on my own saw which is a Jet cabinet saw. How do you plan to cut the hole? CI is not easily cut using hand held tools. You are talking a major metal removal job suitable only for a rigid machine set-up. Typically the way to cut a round hole in a cast iron plate would be to mount it on a vertical milling machine and using a boring head remove metal in progressively larger diameters and depth.


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## choa (Aug 15, 2012)

i plan on using this mill to cut the hole. it is plenty powerful and im going to run a program that cuts it exactly to the specs of the router plate using its CNC function. i measured my cast iron thickness and got around 3/8" the plate is 1/4 therefore leaving around an 1/8"


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

With that mill, you shouldn't have any problem cutting the hole. I guess you will be using a straight end mill and using the CNC to trace the round shape. No need for a boring head. That should get you a nice CI slug left over for another project. Thanks for the update.


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## jenniferzinger (Apr 6, 2013)

Nick, I think your plan is a good one.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Sorry; I didn't read your thread fully before replying. I was thinking a round hole until I re-read the message as it being a rectangular cutout. Your plan is absolutely right-on. Blame it on old age.


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## choa (Aug 15, 2012)

The link to finished product will be up soon


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Why not just buy the Benchdog router table TS extension wing as it has been tested to not only hang on your TS but also support your router, inserts, and router lifts?










I have had one for 5 years and I am thinking of adding another!


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## choa (Aug 15, 2012)

The reason I didn't is b/c they cost $450. That is where I got the idea though. My school wood shop has one on both their table saws and really liked them


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## choa (Aug 15, 2012)

here is the finished product 
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/83077


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I posted a comment on your finished project page and as I said, *"can't get better than that"*!


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

Nice work. I'm too late to respond to the OP's questions, but perhaps it would be of value to others: why the plate?

Wouldn't it make more sense just to machine a hole and machine the backside flat and bore and countersink for the screws to hold the bottom of your router in the cast iron itself?

I could easily be wrong, but I can't see a reason to inset the plate in a cast iron wing.

Kindly,

Lee


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## choa (Aug 15, 2012)

I have gotten that question a few times and I have a few reasons for the plate. My biggest reason is because I don't have a router lift so a bit change would be very difficult once I get the cabinet made around the thing. Another reason is someday I may get a different router and if I have the holes drilled specifically for that router well then I would have 3 holes in my cast iron. lastly that hole is the industry standard router plate size so any plate can drop in therefore making it a lot easier to buy/make a router lift in the future


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I don't know if I have said this before but I swap out routers with different bits and set up height for a project as it is quicker and found out, at least for me, to be more accurate. But, in he other hand, tat could also be done w/o a plate.

A router lift would be nice! Like this one








which has been on my which list for some time!

Just one suggestion, put the leveling adjustments on the plate so you can level the plates from te top of the RT!


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

Got it! Thanks for the clarification. Onward! Rout and rout some more!

I could add to your reasons the holes in the plate for starter pins. Granted those holes could be milled in the CI, but they're already there, and an attractive safety feature when you need them.

Kindly,

Lee


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## choa (Aug 15, 2012)

ya i put some set screws in the lip of the cast iron and they didn't work too well because it only had 1/8 to grab so i think i might just shim with a few pin nails but its not more than 1/32 below the table and thats only on one side. 
knowing me i will make my router lift and because i only have access to the high end machinery for a few more months (i graduate in june) i will be making one pretty soon


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