# What's your favorite paste wax, and why?



## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

I'm sure there will be plenty of debate on this topic, but I am curious as to everyone's thoughts on this?

You very well may have more than one favorite, but maybe for different applications, so please list multiple products for the various applications.

Thanks for your input everybody!


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## luckydawg (Mar 17, 2010)

Same here I'm to the paste wax world so I would also enjoy knowing more
about it before I go and purchase the wrong kind and am stuck with it!

Were waiting LJ's!


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

For tools (e.g. table saw top, scroll saw, jointer tables, etc.), I use ordinary Johnson's Paste Wax (in the big yellow can).

For projects, I use Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish … pricey, but produces a great finished piece.


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## cstrang (Sep 22, 2009)

For my cast iron tops it's Johnson's Paste wax and for my projects I use Minwax.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

TheDane,

Do you prefer the Renaissance wax on all your projects, or just turned items? I looked at a container at Rockler when it was on sale a few weeks ago, and thought it'd be excellent for smaller turned items, etc. but wasn't sure about something I'm wiping on and wiping off by hand. I thought I might go through it fairly quickly, for a picture frame, or something similar. I have read a ton of great comments on it though and would eventually like to try it on something.

I too use the Johnson's on the tablesaw, and will be using it once I get the bandsaw assembled.

I have used it on a couple of projects, but can't stand the smell. Once it's dry, it's fine. It's the only wax I have right now (came with the tablesaw), but I'm considering others right now, which is why posed this question.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Myland Wax from the UK with the queen seal of approval. It goes on like butter and buff out to a very nice satin hand rub looking finish. I like to use it over Watco's Danish oil for a super rich finish. To price to apply on cast tops and other tools, strictly for finish work. A very nice hand rub look with great durability its been my choice for plenty of years now thanks for asking and good luck finding your go to wax.


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

Homebrew…


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## Timberwerks (Sep 29, 2009)

I use Liberon Black Bison. It's easy to apply, drys hard and has a nice scent. It is also easy to remove if needed. Renaissance is also a good wax but it is very difficult to remove completely if you need to re-finish.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Jonathan-I'm not a turner (don't have a lathe). I use renaissance on small projects like pencil holders, picture frames, etc.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

TheDane,
I mistakenly presumed that you turned, as it seems like most people I've read about that use Renaissance use it on turned projects. How long would you say a small container of it tends to last you then? I'm sure this can vary greatly, based on the size of the project, but a rough estimate would still be helpful.

Timberwerks,
I almost picked-up a container of Liberon Black Bison last time I was at Rockler, but didn't. Maybe next time. Thanks for your impression on that particular wax. What's your preferred method of removal for it?


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

I have wondered about the Neutral vs. Clear in the Black Bison line of wax? Not having used them yet, the only difference I can tell (on paper) is that the Clear is supposed to have a bit of an amber tint to it compared to the Neutral, which is supposed to be neutral (go figure).

Does anybody prefer one over the other between these two specific products?


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## Timberwerks (Sep 29, 2009)

I use the neutral Black Bison. To remove the wax I use a cotton cloth and I then buff out with Liberon 0000 steel wool. It always leaves a flawless silky smooth finish with no dull wax residue. I typically use two coats.


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## D1st (Jan 28, 2010)

I recently put Howards citrus paste wax on a piece and it turned out nice. The main reason I bought this wax was for my table saw. The cast iron got rusty after a storm and my roof had a leak right over the saw. I got the rust off and put Howards on it and buffed it out. It looks real good.


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## Kindlingmaker (Sep 29, 2008)

Another vote for Johnson's but I also use car waxes that are hard finishes and some with buffing compound in them to smooth out my dust problems. Almost all come out 99% smooth, silky and protected.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

I like the Mylands. If I remember correctly it is a blend of beeswax and Carnuba. A good combination of soft and hard. I wouldn't recommend waxes for stuff that will be handled a lot or will be exposed to moisture, as with a fruit bowl, for example.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Again, I'm learning here, so I will ask the question Mike:

I thought one of the reasons to use the wax (besides the silky-smooth sheen) was to help repel water? I think I'm going to remove the wax from the herb tray, by the way, and put on a few coats of poly. Then maybe some wax over that once it cures.


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## GrayPonyWorkshop (Apr 28, 2010)

Briwax all the way.


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## Dustmite97 (Aug 1, 2009)

I like Minwax but Briwax is also very good.


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## sittingbuller (Mar 10, 2010)

I also prefer the Briwax over Watco danish oil for projects. For tools, I usually use minwax because I have it left ov er from a project and didn'like the results.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I use Minwax for everything. DON'T USE AUTO WAX IN THE SHOP!!!! It contains silicone. Bad stuff when time to finish unless ya wanna deal with fisheye.
Bill


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## lwllms (Jun 1, 2009)

I use TreWax because it has the highest carnauba content of any of the waxes I've been able to find or have already been mentioned here. The other advantage is that it's less expensive because they're not marketing it to fickle woodworkers. Find it in the floor maintenance section of hardware stores or lumber yards, not in the finish section.


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## Millo (Jan 19, 2010)

so, can you use any wax over a satin poly finish, including REnassaince wax? What is the best-smelling wax, you think? ...and I know the answer to that last one is definitely not Johnson's! ;-)


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## needshave (Jan 13, 2013)

I use Johnson's on all equipment. For my wood finishes I use minwax and Wylands. Like the saying goes " you get what you pay for. Wylands is most expensive of anything I have tried. (Amazon Carries it)


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

For tools - hand planes, saws, planers, etc. I've been using Minwax - it's what I found on the store shelf, I figure it's equal to Johnsons. I've tried the Staples dark brown from Woodcraft and Briwax clear - don't find anything special about them. If you want a colored wax put some dye in it. I've used Renassaince wax on my guns - works well. I've started using Rem oil on hand tools - dries to a waxy finish and seems to be providing good rust protection. I use crayons for the bottom of hand planes while working - any candle works too.

Finished projects get Meguair's products - various grit "cuts" depending on how rough I need to start out and finish with synthetic sealant - amazing stuff - keeps my vehicles shining like a diamond in a goat's a** and does the same for wood. Yes these have silicone - only used on finished projects. Tools get wax w/o silicone.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

So I'm not the only one who uses Minwax?...;-)


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## richardwootton (Jan 17, 2013)

Does anyone know if the Minwax paste wax contains any silicone?


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## ScottKaye (Jan 19, 2013)

I use butchers brand wax in the orange can for my tops


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Richard, MinWax paste wax contains NO silicone.


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## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Lundmark amber carnauba wax. I use it on tools and as a wax finish on wood. Smells like lobbies used to smell like when they'd wax the floors (turpentine & wax-yum).


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