# Outfeed / Assembly Table Build - Feedback Welcome



## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

Hi Lumber Jocks!

For my second thread, I wanted to share a SketchUp design that I've been working on. I want to keep it simple, and allow for easy reuse of the MDF/hardboard materials if I decide to tear it down and start over.

Space is a luxury in my 2 car garage, and I desperately need an outfeed table for safety and a plumb/level worksurface for many upcoming projects.

- Going to be planing basic dimensional pine from the big box stores, expecting final lumber to be 3-1/4" x 1-1/4" 
- Plan to route 1/4" roundover on the pine trim for the top work surface and shelf below.
- Casters are 4" w/ brake from Harbor Freight :X

*1) I want to attempt my first lap or dado joints (aside from a pegboard and mirror frame). Where would these be best utilized?"

*2) For a finish, should I apply boiled linseed and/or oil-based poly on the MDF or hardboard? I'm hoping to seal it as nicely as possible. Any tips welcome! I have no experience, other than paste wax and some boiled linseed.*

*3) Leveling pegs for the 4 corners of the table. Are these expensive? I'm not sure if I want to sacrifice mobility, but plumb & level are #1.*

*Any suggestions?*

*Pictures have links for better viewing*


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## HackFabrication (Mar 11, 2019)

If space is at a premium, you are using a bit more than 20 sq ft by having a fixed (although movable) table.

I work in my basement, and have even less square footage of floor space. So I opted for a drop leaf style outfeed/assembly table:



















With the TS on a mobile base, everything moves (once table is down) out of the way.


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## Fenns (Jul 26, 2019)

For the height adjustability you could use casters that have a threaded stud on top, and then put those into a sleeve in the bottom of the leg and use a nut on the threads to be able to level the unit.


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## Axis39 (Jul 3, 2019)

1) Lap joints and dadoes could be utilized on the aprons and stretchers, where they meet the legs. They would really help with keeping things square and avoid wracking.

2) Be honest? I usually use paste wax on hardboard tops like this (and this is the way I do a lot of my workbenches). I also don't fasten them in place. I run a lip, like you have and then simply place one or two layers of hardboard in to it. The workbench I built 20 years ago (and just recently abandoned) still looked decent and worked with just wax.

3) Bolts through nuts epoxied into the feet work great… You could do fold down wheels if you really needed to move it.

When I recently set up my new shop, in a one car garage space, I did a lot of youtubing and interwebbing. I ended up building a smaller assembly/out-feed table than I expected - 39×50. The 50" is parallel to my table saw's table, the 39 is butted up against it. The size surprised me. It has been perfect for catching pieces as they come through the saw, small enough it is easy to get around, and large enough to catch anything coming off the saw. It's also worked out perfectly for building, assembling, etc. The 50" width has been nice when clamping stuff that's a full 48" wide.

I also built it a tad shorter than my table saw's table, so jigs and fixtures that slide in the miter slot slide right across the top of the table. It kept me from having to rout slots… It made it easier to implement another hardboard top… And, it was an experiment that seems to have worked out perfectly. It's high enough not to cause any danger when the workpiece tips down. And it made it easier… and avoids one more place that normally collects dust.

I also built a torsion box top out of MDF to go underneath the hardboard top. My only regret is that I didn't make it a bit taller. I left the side pockets open on three sides to hold tools. I find it so helpful to keep a block plane, sharpening stuff, my drawing book, little things I use all the time, at hand under the top. Also, as I work, I have begun building drawers and shelves underneath to keep tools I grab all the time handy. The first thing I added were two 'holsters' to hold my screw gun and cordless drill. Next to that, I build a drawer to hold bits and batteries. Straight edges, a cleaning brush, a couple of hand saws, all get screws or hooks into the legs to keep them handy all the time as well. Then, a shelf underneath to hold a glue caddy and my hand planes. Since I am working in a small space, storage is everything!

Looks like your design should work, but like HackFabrication says, you might think hard about the size. Have fun with it and enjoy it for years to come!


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## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

Like you , I work in a small shop. I built a simple folding outfeed table and it worked very well.
The problem with it was that I was always using it for more than an outfeed table. It became a work bench, an assembly table, and a finishing table. It was not build to handle what I was putting it through.
Finally this spring I began designing a better version that could serve all those functions. 
After many many incarnations I came up with my torsion top outfeed/assembly table. 
It's small enough to tuck away when not needed but big enough for my needs.
I don't really have many build photos but I will share what I have.

My Old Set up

















My current setup:



















































This may not be what you had in mind but maybe it will give you some ideas.
It measures 50"x33" and fits perfectly in the spot I have.

I should mention that I share my shop with the wifes car at night so everything I have rolls and has to leave room for her car.


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

I'm in a 2 car with half a car of other stuff, all of my items are convertible to save as much space as possible, and I use every inch of wall space. I have a bunch of the old school workmates and they are great for being a sturdy base for many adaptations, I did a project for an outfeed table a little while ago and am currently in the midst of a project where I'm using 2 workmates and a hollow core door slab as an assembly table, either way it all folds away and I can easily get 1 car in, and with a bit more work I can get the 2nd one in, but you have to get out on the passenger side…lol Workmates are pretty easily found on craig's list but never consider the newer ones with 200, 300, 400 numbers, you're looking for the old school ones from the 70's and 80's. You only have new England for your profile so I just peeked in New York

And saw the most common good one here for $35 but they generally can be had for $20
https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/tls/d/wawarsing-black-and-decker-workmate/6951471155.html

And I wish I was not down in MD right now but up in CT because this one is the first generation aluminum H frame version listed for $20 and easily re-sale-able for $100
https://newhaven.craigslist.org/tls/d/guilford-bd-workmate-table/6971834746.html

They may not be your solution to your need right now, but they're damn handy to have around when you're in a small space and need a table out in the driveway to work on.


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

> Like you , I work in a small shop. I built a simple folding outfeed table and it worked very well.
> The problem with it was that I was always using it for more than an outfeed table. It became a work bench, an assembly table, and a finishing table. It was not build to handle what I was putting it through.
> Finally this spring I began designing a better version that could serve all those functions.
> After many many incarnations I came up with my torsion top outfeed/assembly table.
> ...


Beautiful design. I really like it.

To everyone else: I'll reconsider the size of the bench, but I really wanted a larger work surface to do all my assembly & work on. I did a narrow 24" wall-mounted bench for my miter station and general use.. it spans the length of the garage and hardly takes any space up.

What would you go with for the table dimensions?

The table saw spans a max of 55", that is from the edge of the tabletop to the edge of the longer rail. Should I cut this off a bit? Maybe 48" x 48"? or even less?


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

> I m in a 2 car with half a car of other stuff, all of my items are convertible to save as much space as possible, and I use every inch of wall space. I have a bunch of the old school workmates and they are great for being a sturdy base for many adaptations, I did a project for an outfeed table a little while ago and am currently in the midst of a project where I m using 2 workmates and a hollow core door slab as an assembly table, either way it all folds away and I can easily get 1 car in, and with a bit more work I can get the 2nd one in, but you have to get out on the passenger side…lol Workmates are pretty easily found on craig s list but never consider the newer ones with 200, 300, 400 numbers, you re looking for the old school ones from the 70 s and 80 s. You only have new England for your profile so I just peeked in New York
> 
> And saw the most common good one here for $35 but they generally can be had for $20
> https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/tls/d/wawarsing-black-and-decker-workmate/6951471155.html
> ...


I'm a massHOLE . West Springfield, specifically. But thanks.


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

> For the height adjustability you could use casters that have a threaded stud on top, and then put those into a sleeve in the bottom of the leg and use a nut on the threads to be able to level the unit.
> 
> - Fenns


Long day at work, and my brain is not computing this. Can you link me to an illustration of this?

These are the casters I got ($2.99 ea - w/ some coupon haggling at Harbor Freight)

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-x-3-4-quarter-inch-stem-swivel-caster-with-brake-90999.html


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

> Like you , I work in a small shop. I built a simple folding outfeed table and it worked very well.
> The problem with it was that I was always using it for more than an outfeed table. It became a work bench, an assembly table, and a finishing table. It was not build to handle what I was putting it through.
> Finally this spring I began designing a better version that could serve all those functions.
> After many many incarnations I came up with my torsion top outfeed/assembly table.
> ...


Sorry to haunt you, but would you mind sharing your .skp file with me? I would love to be able to go through your design and see how you put it all together.

So to clarify, it IS big enough for your needs? IE Full sheets of plywood, dimensional lumber, etc? I don't want anything crashing to the floor-- leaning foward and putting awkward pressure on the other end of the blade is getting too sketchy for my tastes.

Is that torsion top made of particle board? I'm considering changing to that, after seeing it both here and in other projects @ LJ.


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

Regretfully, I'm going to share the disaster that is my current garage.

1) We just moved in a few months ago. I cleared enough space to get started on it a few weeks back.

2) Added 2 new dedicated garage 20v circuits.
- 1 = Ceiling outlet (garage door) & wall outlet dust collection (mod pending).
- 2 = Wall 2-gang 20v outlets (miter station, misc. tools, etc.)

3) Drywall (2 walls so far)
- Scraped off popcorny goodness. 
- Patched a few 2 ft to 6 ft holes in drywall from previous hostile parkers 
- Mudded 20+ holes from 4-12" peg hooks used for all sorts of lawn stuff 
- Primed / sealed

4) Threw together floating storage shelf and wall-mounted workbench/miter station. It's missing my raspberry pi PC setup but I've been working on several projects at once… including getting all my tools out and sorted from the basement.

Before last weekend:



















After last weekend:





































*THERES MORE ROOM THAN IT LOOKS  IE:*

I plan on getting that metal storage rack out of there, including all of the boxes on it, and putting a wall-mounted lumber storage rack system going over there.

And I now have the tabletop space for a benchtop drill press / sanders.


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## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

> Sorry to haunt you, but would you mind sharing your .skp file with me? I would love to be able to go through your design and see how you put it all together.
> 
> So to clarify, it IS big enough for your needs? IE Full sheets of plywood, dimensional lumber, etc? I don t want anything crashing to the floor-- leaning foward and putting awkward pressure on the other end of the blade is getting too sketchy for my tastes.
> 
> ...


This forum is all about sharing information. I don't mind one bit. Many here have helped me over the years.

Yes, this size table fits my needs very well. Both my outfeed table and my work bench are mobile so I can use them in any direction that fills my needs. My new OF table can be turned long ways if needed. I kept the 12" extension that my original OF table hung off of so when I turn the OF long ways I have almost 84" of support.
It is exactly the same height of my work bench so I can use them together if needs be.

I use my circular saw and a jig to break down 4×8 sheets. I never felt real comfortable muscling around full sheets on the table saw by myself.

The web and the frame of the OF table are made from 1/2" MDF. I used The Wood Whisperer's method of building it. It is pretty darn flat! 



I built a solid oak frame around all of it and then use a piece of 3/16" hardboard for the top. It has adjustable feet and retractable castors.
It's really heavy and stable.
Yes you can have the Sketchup file. Send me an e-mail: [email protected] and I will send it to you.

Looking back, I wish I had taken a few more pictures during the build but I didn't really think anyone would be interested since it's not very big.


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

> Looking back, I wish I had taken a few more pictures during the build but I didn t really think anyone would be interested since it s not very big.
> - fivecodys


Just skimmed through and took notes on that video. I'm going to have to adjust them to a proper size.

I'm leaning toward going 48" x 48" or maybe 48" x 36" (without trim added) at this point. With a grid top, you can easily bring the legs inward more and obtain a nice overhang since the top is properly supported.

Do my notes look correct?

all 3" wide strips

outer frame
3/4 mdf
47 1/2×70 3/4

inner grid
1/2 mdf
7-1/4" x 7-1/4" inner grid square

;--> CUTS ;--------------------------------------------;

3" 3/4" mdf 
2x 70" 
2x 46"

1/2" mdf
8x 46" 
40x 7-1/4"

;--> STEPS ;--------------------------------------------;

1 wax surface prevent glue sticking

2 assemble entire outer frame
- framing square
- glue / brad nails
- clamp all 45 angles
- let dry

3 assemble first row of grid |||||||
- utilize 7-1/4" piece as spacer
- glue / brad nails

4 add full length piece & complete first row

5 rinse & repeat


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## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

> Sorry to haunt you, but would you mind sharing your .skp file with me? I would love to be able to go through your design and see how you put it all together.
> 
> So to clarify, it IS big enough for your needs? IE Full sheets of plywood, dimensional lumber, etc? I don t want anything crashing to the floor-- leaning foward and putting awkward pressure on the other end of the blade is getting too sketchy for my tastes.
> 
> ...


This forum is all about sharing information. I don't mind one bit. Many here have helped me over the years.

Yes, this size table fits my needs very well. Both my outfeed table and my work bench are mobile so I can use them in any direction that fills my needs. My new OF table can be turned long ways if needed. I kept the 12" extension that my original OF table hung off of so when I turn the OF long ways I have almost 84" of support.
It is exactly the same height of my work bench so I can use them together if needs be.

I use my circular saw and a jig to break down 4×8 sheets. I never felt real comfortable muscling around full sheets on the table saw by myself.

The web and the frame of the OF table are made from 1/2" MDF. I used The Wood Whisperer's method of building it. It is pretty darn flat! 



I built a solid oak frame around all of it and then use a piece of 3/16" hardboard for the top. It has adjustable feet and retractable castors.
It's really heavy and stable.
Yes you can have the Sketchup file. Send me an e-mail: [email protected] and I will send it to you.

Looking back, I wish I had taken a few more pictures during the build but I didn't really think anyone would be interested since it's not very big.



> Looking back, I wish I had taken a few more pictures during the build but I didn t really think anyone would be interested since it s not very big.
> - fivecodys
> 
> Just skimmed through and took notes on that video. I m going to have to adjust them to a proper size.
> ...


You can make the grid any size that works for you. You can also make the grid depth what ever floats your boat. I just took what Marc did and kind of re-sized it for my application.
I used pocket holes and glue for the leg assembly and to mount the top to my base.

I felt really dumb waxing that sheet of MDF but it really did help in preventing glue from sticking to it.
Oh, I had the guys at Home depot make a couple of cuts on their panel saw to make the MDF easier to handle and load into my pickup. That worked nicely, especially on the hardboard. That stuff is so flimsy and I have actually cracked a piece in half when trying to load it.

Have fun and post your finished table so we can see it!


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## Axis39 (Jul 3, 2019)

I built my torsion box grid on one of my faces, then built the frame and trim around it.

I also used two pieces of plywood for each corner (joined at a 90 deg angle). I added plywood stretcher strips between the legs and those are getting used to hold the shelves underneath.

I cannot stress enough how convenient it is to have little 'cubbies' to put tools and 'stuff' in while working. It was as simple as not putting anything over the open grid ends (although, I did fill them in in the corners where the legs are attached).

Here's a pic from three weeks ago:










Things have changed since… I have more storage underneath and the Miter saw station has gotten several drawers and two upper cabinets.


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## Jared_S (Jul 6, 2018)

My outfeed table is a torsion box design with a removable melamine top. The skins are 1/8" hardboard with a 4" plywood honeycomb at about 9" centers. Cheap, light and effective.


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

@ Everyone:

Greatly appreciate all of the info! Love the torsion box idea and I've been playing with it for an hour or so.

Am I designing beyond my capability at this point?

I want to keep the sides open for cubbies, but also want to have an outer frame to support it. What do you think of this and how could I accomplish these cuts? 














































They're on the side opposite of the one facing the table saw.

3/4" MDF topper
3/4" MDF for outside torsion box

1/2" MDF for inside grid
1/2" MDF for bottom layer

*The big question is-- How hard would those cubby cut outs be? They'd have to line up with the grid and everything.*

*Currently, I only have 1/2" lip of 3/4" MDF around the edge of each cubby.*


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## Axis39 (Jul 3, 2019)

It would be far easier to install your 'face frame' like a regular face frame, made up of thinner strips.

You could plaster a solid piece on, then drill a hole and use a flush trim bit in a router to do the cutouts.

But, I don't know that you're gaining much strength by cutting it out of a single piece? Plus, the internal structure is already in place and keeps the faces square and sturdy.


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

I think I'm going to simply make the sturdiest table possible, and add drawers or a mini french cleat system to the sides down the road. Here's what I have as a final product.

Overkill? Yup. Why not? they practically give 2×4's away.

The whole thing requires 2 sheets of MDF - 1/2" and 3/4".


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## Jared_S (Jul 6, 2018)

> I think I m going to simply make the sturdiest table possible, and add drawers or a mini french cleat system to the sides down the road. Here s what I have as a final product.
> 
> - bmilcs


I see that as the best option. I have a paulk assembly table and it used to collect things inside the cubbies.


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

> I m a massHOLE . West Springfield, specifically. But thanks.
> 
> - bmilcs


LOL, that's a new one to me I did 2 seasons as the chef at a place in the Berkshires near Beckett & Lee, beautiful country, but I'm not a fan of the laws there


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

> I m a massHOLE . West Springfield, specifically. But thanks.
> 
> - bmilcs
> 
> ...


 I had a warehouse gig that landed me in Lee way back when. What's wrong with our WICKED good laws dude?


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## BattleRidge (Oct 22, 2017)

I kept my combination workbench, assembly area, outfeed table simple and have been very satisfied with the results.

The frame is of 2×6 construction and similar to your original design. I used lumber from Lowe's and see no real need to joint & plane the wood prior to assembly. I had considered various joinery options and ended up placing the boards face-to-face (or edge) and the result has been very rigid.

The top consists of two layers of 3/4" plywood screwed (not glued) together, and fastened to the frame with screws. The doubled plywood makes a great top and if I were to do it all over again, I wouldn't change it.

The work surface is a sheet of hardboard affixed with double sided tape and surrounded by modified oak trim. The hardboard is relatively inexpensive and easy to replace should it become worn or damaged. I didn't use any type of finish on the hardboard and it provides a clean, durable and great working surface in it's natural state.

I also wanted to have the option to disassemble or allow for modification in the future and thus the entire project is screwed together, but I have found no reason to make any changes to the basic form. Since being built, I have found it to be quite sturdy and doesn't budge even if under heavy use. The work surface is completely flat and level and has remained that way through several seasons of weather changes.

The overall size is 4' x 8' with a 30" x 30" drop-down area that I use for my oscillating belt / spindle sander, portable router table, and scroll saw (all of which store under the work surface when not in use). I placed a shelf on one side that holds a variety of of my portable power tools (many were out on various projects when the picture was taken) and will be installing pull-out drawers on the other side to store a variety of woodworking tools and items. The ample size of the working area has been great and it is nice not being cramped for space.

I built the unit to be stationary and have no need to move it around in my shop, thus I didn't add any casters. My concrete floor is flat & level and I didn't install any levelers on the workbench. The height was built to be just below the top of the table saw. I gained a tremendous amount of usable work area and convenient storage space from the unit and it is a central work area in my shop.

My shop is 30' x 40' x 10'h, but I kept my woodworking space to a relatively compact area for convenience. The rest of the shop contains storage for my tractor w/ implement, mechanical work area & workbenches and tool storage, metal working area, various shelving units and parking for my pickup (which will move outside when space is needed for large projects). I have a 'clean' finish area that is climate controlled in my basement and thus don't have to worry about cross contamination between projects being built and the final finished product.


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## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

> I had a warehouse gig that landed me in Lee way back when. What s wrong with our WICKED good laws dude?
> 
> - bmilcs


Can't say it's TOO much better here in Maryland, but i don't think it's any of the government's business to know the size of my magazine or the weight of a trigger pull


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

> - BattleRidge


Very nice. I am jealous of your available space!

I ultimately decided to take a step back and wait before I move forward on my workbench build.

I need to figure out how I'm going to lay my shop out, including tool placement, DC ducting, and how much space I can afford to dedicate to an outfeed/assembly bench.


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## BattleRidge (Oct 22, 2017)

There are a multitude of workbench options and I bounced around many ideas before finally coming up with my final design - and even then, it evolved even further during the actual build process. Each person's needs are different and thus each workbench / assembly area / outfeed table (whether individual stand-alone units or a combination unit) will be different.

Work flow and processes are also important to consider so that the entire workshop is a pleasure to work in and doesn't become a hindrance - and of course there is always the space & financial limits that come into play.

My wood storage rack is at the end of the shop where the wood first comes in the door and the A-frame rack has made organizing wood a lot easier and provides a large amount of heavy-duty capacity. The table saw and the radial arm saw are located nearby to cut pieces to size, and the jointer & planer are alongside for further processing when needed.

The workbench provides a convenient, easy-to-reach spot to place wood once it has been cut and to organize for the next task. An advantage of having a larger / longer work surface is that I can often have my project and associated pieces on the table, and still have outfeed space available for the table saw. It is also convenient to have the majority of my hand-held tools and woodworking supplies located just below the work surface - you can never have too much storage space.

Further woodworking occurs at the other end of the shop via the bandsaw. The area between the BS & RAS (where the scrap wood box is) is reserved for a future drill press.

I often have the sander at the drop-down area for easy access near the bandsaw. I have a portable router table that can also sit at the drop-down area, though I just obtained the table saw which has a router mount and I may begin to utilize that at some point. If the sander and router table will both be needed, the sander will move to the raised area just behind it's shown location, or if not needed it is stored in a spot beneath the work surface. I also use the drop down area for my scroll saw, and the raised area behind for the dovetail jig.

Dust collection is via two 4" PVC pipes along the base of the wall, one connected to the bandsaw and the jointer, with the second connected to the radial arm saw and to a 4" flexible hose that connects to the table saw or the planer. I have a Super Dust Deputy Cyclone that will be installed before the dust collector which will then sit at the far end of the wall.

I plan on building a portable cabinet / base on wheels for the planer which will allow it to rest below the surface of the radial arm saw and thus limit the need for frequent moving (it presently sits a little too high). I also plan on plumbing the drop-down area into the main dust collector system and to reserve the shop vac / dust deputy for hand tools, floor cleaning, etc.

If you are unsure of the final size / design of your workbench, two or three sawhorses and a sheet of plywood (cut to approximate size) can provide the opportunity to work & move around it for a while before your final build. I presently have several boxes with tools and such sitting on the far side of my workbench that I am using to give me an idea of the number & size of drawers I want to install (an upcoming project). I am keeping my old table saw (smaller contractor-type model) to allow ripping of boards longer than 8' (which can be challenging with the 'fixed' location of my wood storage rack and table saw), though may at some point find it is no longer needed.

If you are like me (and many other woodworkers) your shop will likely be a continually evolving space, adapting and changing with your wants and needs over time. The nice (and fun) thing about wood is that you can do many things with it and unless you get fancy with fancy woods, much of what you build your shop out of can be done at a somewhat reasonable cost - and if something needs to be done-over, the experience only builds your skills and knowledge base (and you can often re-use the remnants of a previous build for something else).


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Your plan is doable, and will allow for future fill in on the lower half, should you decide to section it off for the always important storage.

I only use BLO if I want to pop grain, not much to pop if you use a hardboard on top. I'd suggest a fast drying poly, probably water based to get it coated, and dried, because you won't be wanting to have it, and not use it.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

@bmilcs

Check out the Ron Paulk table. And over on YouTube Jay Bates has some good info on this. The concept is very good and can be built to any size.

Aside from the dust/lung health issues, MDF gets very heavy very quickly. If you do with with MDF cut it out in the drive way . But I suggest 3/4 ply will do the job for you. You can top it with a piece of hardboard or better yet, laminate.

Good luck. The shop is a never ending project. I just finished running the DC duct under slab and now I'm getting ready to built cabinets for my shop. And yeah, I've been in it 25 years.

One other thing I would like to mention is in a garage workshop, ventilation is an issue to be considered. Several factors come into play especially if the door has to be closed. If the air handler is in the garage, fumes, odors, or even fine dust can potentially be sucked in and distributed through the house. Do not rely on it to be totally sealed. One way is to build a sealed closet around it.


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

> There are a multitude of workbench options and I bounced around many ideas before finally coming up with my final design - and even then, it evolved even further during the actual build process. Each person s needs are different and thus each workbench / assembly area / outfeed table (whether individual stand-alone units or a combination unit) will be different.
> 
> Work flow and processes are also important to consider so that the entire workshop is a pleasure to work in and doesn t become a hindrance - and of course there is always the space & financial limits that come into play.
> 
> ...


BattleRidge, I would LOVE to see some photos. As someone who doesn't read much, this is a lot to visualize lol


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

I'm having a hard time figuring out how I want to layout my shop. It's overwhelming and taking away from the fun of it. It's a disorganized mess at the moment, and I don't have a table to work on.

I need guidance!

Should I go with this size workbench or should I go larger? I desparately need a work surface, as well as organization.

I threw together 3 modules for my french cleat to hang my circular saw, multi-tool and sander.

Cutting small pieces of plywood is very tricky w/o a band saw.


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

Apologies for the ramblings of a lunatic.

What should I prioritize in my shop?

I have a long list of things to build:

- Outfeed/workbench
- Planer cart
- Router table (table saw mounted)
- Crosscut & miter sled
- Dust collection ducts 
- Tons of storage-drawers, shelves, and organization galore


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## cmacnaughton (May 17, 2019)

> Apologies for the ramblings of a lunatic.
> 
> What should I prioritize in my shop?
> 
> ...


I can only tell you my experience, and that is: without a table to build things on, you'll have a harder time building the other things on your list. Beyond that, don't feel like you need to do everything immediately.


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## BattleRidge (Oct 22, 2017)

When I built my shop, I hadn't really planned on having woodworking space and basically planned on using the area for storage. At the time (January, 2018), my equipment consisted of a RAS that I have had for years, a contractor-type table saw and a few hand and power tools.



















My first major tool that I purchased when I decided to get into woodworking was a bandsaw. This is also the most expensive piece of equipment in my shop and I purchased it new & wanted something nice, solid and capable.










I quickly tired of working on the floor or with a makeshift surface and after much contemplation, came up with the final design for my combo assembly table, workbench, outfeed table. I included an area for various pieces of equipment (sander, router table, scroll saw - all of which store in the unit) which I have found to be quite convenient and sturdy. There is also ample space for portable power tools and woodworking supplies easily at hand. The next step will be to install pull-out drawers for further organization, also a dust collection pipe to the drop down area. Having a large work surface allows for the gathering of prepared wood, project assembly and still have outfeed space for the table saw.










I added the Dewalt Planer (new at a great price on sale) and to remain within my budget limitations, began exploring Facebook Marketplace & Craigslist where I found my jointer, dust collector and table saw - assembling my shop at a much swifter pace and at great savings (I had each in my shop on the same day each piece was listed). With the addition of a variety of hand power tools, I am sitting pretty much where I need to be at this point in time. I still need to install the Super Dust Deputy Cyclone and collection drum into my DC system.










For ease of dust collection, I removed the switch from the DC and installed it at a much more convenient spot near the center of my shop (just to the right of the RAS).










My wood storage rack has been another important addition. It allows for a large amount of storage and is quite heavy duty with support spacing close enough to help keep boards flat and straight.










I recently added the Grizzly table saw, and it has been a huge step up from my previous saw. To run power to my 'island', I ran conduit along the floor and nestled it between sections of my floor anti-fatigue mats (which makes a notable difference in comfort in my main working area). I still need to install a second section of conduit for the table saw and right now just have the wire running on the floor. For dust collection, I use a 4" flexible dust collection hose and will often disconnect and move it out of the way when not needed.










My shop works quite well for me, though each person will have different wants and needs. My finish area is in my basement that is clean and climate controlled year around.

When determining the placement for equipment and shop layout, it helps to think about what your work flow will be and to try to limit the need of walking back and forth all over the place when performing various tasks.

I have found many advantages to the large size of my assembly area, workbench, outfeed table - including the huge amount of convenient storage - but such a design and size isn't for everyone and there can also be advantages to a smaller unit or toward having a separate workbench, assembly and outfeed table. With my new table saw, I decided to move my unit about a foot further away from the wood storage rack which required unloading the unit and moving it (about an inch at a time, it is quite heavy) to what will be it's final location, but I see no need to do any further moving.

The outfeed table / workbench would be a good place to start and trying to work without a good area can be, well, horrible - trying to do things on the floor or in an undersized spot isn't fun.

The planer is heavy and if you use it often, a cart can be a plus. I have mine on a workmate on wheels but plan on building a portable cabinet at some point, though for now I am getting by without.

The previous owner of my table saw built a router area but I haven't had the opportunity to tinker with it - though I can see the advantage to having the router there. I presently use a portable router table at my drop down area.

With your available miter saw station, the crosscut & miter sled could possibly wait if it isn't needed right away.

Dust collection is definitely a plus and having the system plumbed to each machine is a huge time-saver compared to moving the dust collector (or hose) to each machine when needed. I have a blast gate for each hose that runs to a machine, and with the size of my system will at times leave two ports open when going back and forth between a couple machines & still have great collection. The installation of a cyclone can be a plus in both keeping your filter clean and in limiting the worry about a piece of wood or other item being sucked through the hose and into the impeller.

I am still adding to my storage (needing to install drawers in my workbench) and you can never have enough. I have the walls of my shop basically lined with storage spots, though it is also used for a variety of mechanical work, vehicle parking, tractor & tree farm equipment and so forth. There can also be an advantage in only keeping what you want & need and for all else, either dispose (yard sale or otherwise) of it or find an out-of-a-way spot to put it.



















Good luck in your shop and I am looking forward to seeing what you come up with.


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

@ BattleRidge - That's one heck of a setup!

I was letting emotion get the better of me last night. Walking through my MESS of a garage with a laundry list of to do's is tiresome after a long workday.

I'm going to focus my efforts on a proper work surface as that makes the most sense. Even though my space is limited, I really want to have a large, flat surface in the center of my shop for all my projects to sit on.

My main issue is that I started buying tons of tools and supplies before having a real place to work in… as I needed them for a home renovation-- immediately upon moving in. I didn't have the luxury of doing this as a pure hobbyist, and slowly adapting to a growing collection.

Workbench it is to start with. I'm leaning toward a simple design, most likely not a torsion box, to start with. I need something built quickly so I can move onto the many essentials ahead of me.


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## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

> @ BattleRidge - That s one heck of a setup!
> 
> I was letting emotion get the better of me last night. Walking through my MESS of a garage with a laundry list of to do s is tiresome after a long workday.
> 
> ...


When I first started I was using a hollow core door that I got from the the lumberyard and two saw horses.
I used this for several years. The only problem was hole for the lock-set (drilled in wrong spot so door was not usable) I beat the crap out of that thing! What ever works brother!


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

Welp. a few noticeable mistakes made along the way, but what else is shop furniture for? function and learning pains. my floor is significantly off, so i shimmed my table saw up an eight of an inch .

still need to put a finish on the frame and top. planning on using oil poly to get some practice in .

i plan on adding some electrical outlets to the frame, as well as shelving, drawers and tool hooks… maybe a side cubby bin thing .

ps what kind of wood is this? freshly cut. I plan to use it for slides on a cross cut sled.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

I would use some laminated plywood fo the front and rear of the sled rather than a single board. I think it will stay flatter over time.


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## bmilcs (Sep 13, 2019)

> I would use some laminated plywood fo the front and rear of the sled rather than a single board. I think it will stay flatter over time.
> 
> - controlfreak


Sorry. I must've used the wrong terminology lol. I try.

I meant the track slot thingies that sit in the miter slots on the table saw itself. Runners? I don't know 

I'm going with 23/32 plywood for the rest. I don't have any 1/2"


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