# A Saw With a Lot of Potential, Both Good and Bad



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

My biggest beef is the hassle of adjusting the lower wheel for co-planer, getting the belt away from the case, and to solve pulsating of the blade, presuming the blade is welded well and true.

Now that I've been doing some in depth shopping for upgrades (e.g., 15" and 17" saws), I've learned being able to adjust the lower wheel is the norm on larger saws.

It takes, as noted above, a lot of patience, a bit of experimentation AND a good blade to properly set the lower wheel shaft. Now that I've gotten there, it's worth the time. Too, it's worth sending back blades that have a dip on the back of the blade, even if it's over fifteen inches or so. That WILL cause problematic pulsing, which cannot be cured by the shaft adjustments.

The fact my Rikon came VERY poorly adjusted from the factory aside (e.g., the drive belt was rubbing against the case and would go back to rubbing the case when it was put back in place), it may well be my review should be as much about Olsen, Timberwolf and Starret bandsaw blades as the saw. Three of the Timerwolf blades pulse, but the Starret is wonderful.

IN SHORT, a bit of research in, I'd be inclined to give it a few stars back for "bang for your buck" for a 14" saw.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

WAIT A MINUTE!

Now that I've looked at several saws that are larger than my 14" PM or Rikon, the same set up for the shafts appears to be a common thing. In fact, the 17" Grizzly I just got has an entire section of the manual dedicated to explaining how to set the upper and lower wheels co-planer, IF you have to.

It appears my buddy, so, me when I took over the saw, just got the one made on a bad Rikon day. As noted above, it was running smooth when the fellow took it out the door [with a Starret blade on it] and after hours of messing around.

That one was on the Rikon folks, but nothing that was not repairable with a LOT of experimenting and adjustments.


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