# Scott and Jay's "Shop Time Throwdown"



## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

*The challange is extended and accepted.*

Back in February I noticed that one of my buddies on Youtube had fallen off the face of the earth, so I tossed him a note and learned that he had fallen into a funk. In order to get him back from he dark side I decided to issue a challenge that would force us both back into our shops. 
Here's the original challenge video: 





Here's Jay's acceptance video:





Here are our self-imposed rules:

Beginning the first week of March and continuing through the month our buddy Jay (Youtube's Dighsx) and I are entering into a fun little contest, and we encourage you to watch our progress and if you like, play along.

Make sure to subscribe to this channel https://www.youtube.com/MrToolHunter and Jay's channel at https://www.youtube.com/user/dighsx

Scott and Jay's "Shop Time Throwdown" rules of engagement


The clock must keep and tell time.
The clock must be constructed predominately of wood. Upcycling is encouraged.
The clock must Be practical for shop use. (think dusty environment)
The clock must be built for under $100 in lumber. The budget for the movement, hardware, lighting, etc is not limited.
 The construction of the wooden portions of the clock must be crafted by the competitor. Outsourcing of hardware, glass, movement, and other components is permitted.

Scott and Jay's Throwdown will be judged by two juries:
1.) YT audience, which will be weighted as 50% of the vote and
2.) Izzy Swan, whose vote will be weighted as 50% of the vote. Visit and subscribe to Izzy's channel at: https://www.youtube.com/user/rusticman1973

Four video updates from each of us:
1.) Week one (Between March 1-7):
Post a video announcing our intentions to accept the throwdown challenge. The title MUST contain the words "Accepting the MrToolHunter and Dighsx Shop Time Throwdown".

2.) Week two (Between March 8-14):
Post a video describing your concept/design/inspiration for your clock design. You do not need to disclose your final design.

3.) Week three (Between March 15-21):
Post a project status report, including the sharing of any interesting challenges and solutions.

4.) Week four (Between March 22-31):
Post a Project unveiling video recapping highlights of the build and disclosing everything but trade secrets or intentional mysteries. A second private video may be posted disclosing details the mysteries, but this must be linked within the description of the forth video before judging begins on April 1st.

Voting will take place between April 1st and 3rd using a method we will disclose at the time of the vote and the winner(s) will be announced on Saturday April 4th via a video posted on the MrToolHunter channel.

I'll try to keep you updated here, but if you want to see the video updates as soon as we post them on Youtube, make sure to subscribe to my channel at: https://www.youtube.com/MrToolHunter and Jay's channel at https://www.youtube.com/user/dighsx


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

*Shop Clock Design Challenges *

This week Jay and I posted a video were we discussed some of our design ideas and the challenges we believe we will face with the build.

Here's my Design Challenges video: 




Here's Jay's Design Challenges video: 




At this stage of the game we are both holding our cards awfully close to our vest, but as we flesh-out our ideas we'll share more.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

*A little insight into the design of my clock*

I mentioned in the video from by previous post that my plan is to build a large clock, somewhat inspired by a tower clock that I once help to repair. That clock was in the tower of the Lebanon, Ohio City Hall building and though that experience was over 25 years ago it is still a high point of my horological career.










I also mentioned that in 1982 when I was in school at Gem City College School of Horology I read an article about a "Mystery Clock" that was on display in the window of a retail store prior to the year 1900. Thanks to Google Books I was able to locate that article, which I've reproduced here. This concept should help to overcome the challenge brought on by the fact that even high-torque quartz movements are going to be underpowered for the size hands I have planned for my clock. More to come.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

*This week's clockmaking update is short and sweet.*

I was traveling for work this week so I only got a few minutes in the shop to work on my "Shop Time Throwdown" clock, but I did gather most of the lumber and parts that I'll need to make it all come together. 
Here's the update video:


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

*Jay Dighsx posts his week 2.5 update video*

Jay shares a couple challenges he is facing with the build of his "Shop Time Throwdown" clock, and he also shares what he is using for the brains of his clock:





I've also created a Youtube playlist of all of our videos in this throwdown, so if you want to catch-up they're all in one place: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLxYlYd_yP0Wc58TN7IkCnMsSgXdC-SrKi


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

*Time to install some bearings, then suddenly... CRAP! *

I'm to the point in my project where I need to mount some bearings, so I picked-up some skateboard bearings off of Amazon that had a good rating at that weren't going to break the bank. I only need four, but they were sold in sets of eight, so I guess I have back-ups. The ID on them is 8mm, and after a little research I determined that what I needed was a couple 8mm X 100mm steel dowels. I dropped by our local Fastenal store and though they didn't have them on hand they were able to get a pair ordered for pick-up in the store two days latter for only $2 each.

Like clockwork (see what I did there?) they called two days later and after paying and jumping back into my van I was able to confirm the fit… and they don't fit! This can't be happening! They were oversized and after looking closely at the invoice I noticed that the word "Oversized" even appeared in their description! I didn't ask for oversized dowels, I asked for 8mm dowels! Shouldn't this have been mentioned when I ordered them?

So as you can see I had to toss them on the lathe and turn off a small amount to permit the bearing to slide on. If I knew I was going to have to do this I would have walked out the door on Monday with two 3/8" dowel pins.










My next challenge was I would need to mount the bearings in a couple 22mm holes, and wouldn't you know, that's not a common size even in European cabinetmaking, so it was back Amazon. I snagged this carbide tipped "Forstner" for less than $6 with free shipping thanks to Prime. And yes, I know these bits aren't truly Forster bits, but seeing that I'll be drilling on a drill press and all the holes are square to the face of the board they'll do just fine.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

*One of the most uncomfortable things I've ever done with a woodworking project*

It's time to add some texture to the slats that will make up the dial of my clock. An a previous project I ran similar strips of pine over a wore brush prior to finishing and I was generally pleased with the results, but I recall it taking a crazy-long time to get the depth of texture that I desired. Recently I've been catching up on a backlog of videos by Jimmy DiResta and in one he torched and then wire brushed similar pine boards and it was clear that I had my solution. The Japanese call this "Shou-Sugi-Ban", and there they use it as a finish for exterior cedar siding. Google it because it is fascinating.










So I gathered-up my slats and took them to the back patio along with my propane torch. Initially I just toasted them, which gave them a nice brown color, but then I remembered that adding color isn't what I'm after; I need the wood to fall-away when I wire brush it. So with a little trepidation I let it rip. Is it odd that the songs "Disco Inferno" and Kansas' "Fight Fire With Fire" played continually in my mind for the two and a half hours that it took to roast the wood?










Returning to the shop with my scorched wood my next project was to add a wire wheel to "stock feeder". A couple years ago I had a project that required me to accurately route groves in a thousand + feet of lumber, and though I couldn't justify the price of a stock feeder I could justify purchasing an inexpensive portable planer. I removed the blades, built a dedicated bench with a long, continuous bed and rigged an overhead router that together with the planer as the stock feeder made short work of the project. I fabricated a mount for my drill and cobbled together a mandrel from a carriage bolt and away we went.










All in all about 340 liner feet of this charred pine made two trips under the wire wheel, and the results look good.

Want to hear the odd part? Next we paint the wood white!


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

MyGrowthRings said:


> *One of the most uncomfortable things I've ever done with a woodworking project*
> 
> It's time to add some texture to the slats that will make up the dial of my clock. An a previous project I ran similar strips of pine over a wore brush prior to finishing and I was generally pleased with the results, but I recall it taking a crazy-long time to get the depth of texture that I desired. Recently I've been catching up on a backlog of videos by Jimmy DiResta and in one he torched and then wire brushed similar pine boards and it was clear that I had my solution. The Japanese call this "Shou-Sugi-Ban", and there they use it as a finish for exterior cedar siding. Google it because it is fascinating.
> 
> ...


I'm curious… have you ever attempted a new finishing techniques that was this outrageous? Scott


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## j1212t (Dec 7, 2013)

MyGrowthRings said:


> *One of the most uncomfortable things I've ever done with a woodworking project*
> 
> It's time to add some texture to the slats that will make up the dial of my clock. An a previous project I ran similar strips of pine over a wore brush prior to finishing and I was generally pleased with the results, but I recall it taking a crazy-long time to get the depth of texture that I desired. Recently I've been catching up on a backlog of videos by Jimmy DiResta and in one he torched and then wire brushed similar pine boards and it was clear that I had my solution. The Japanese call this "Shou-Sugi-Ban", and there they use it as a finish for exterior cedar siding. Google it because it is fascinating.
> 
> ...


That's cool. My first ever proper project I made (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/93307), I burned the top of my pine coffee table. I have no idea where I even came up with the idea, as I had no experience in the field. I just thought it'd be a good idea.

Didn't burn it as thoroughly though since i didn't want the texture, i just wanted the look.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

MyGrowthRings said:


> *One of the most uncomfortable things I've ever done with a woodworking project*
> 
> It's time to add some texture to the slats that will make up the dial of my clock. An a previous project I ran similar strips of pine over a wore brush prior to finishing and I was generally pleased with the results, but I recall it taking a crazy-long time to get the depth of texture that I desired. Recently I've been catching up on a backlog of videos by Jimmy DiResta and in one he torched and then wire brushed similar pine boards and it was clear that I had my solution. The Japanese call this "Shou-Sugi-Ban", and there they use it as a finish for exterior cedar siding. Google it because it is fascinating.
> 
> ...


Jake, I don't know why but your link results in a error message. I found your project by going to your profile, but strange things are afoot at the Circle K. Scott

Here it is again: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/93307



> That s cool. My first ever proper project I made (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/93307), I burned the top of my pine coffee table. I have no idea where I even came up with the idea, as I had no experience in the field. I just thought it d be a good idea.
> 
> Didn t burn it as thoroughly though since i didn t want the texture, i just wanted the look.
> 
> - Jake


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

* If it's good enough for Jimmy Diresta... *

Here's something I've never done to a woodworking project… 



 Actually, I've learned that it's called "Shou-sugi-ban" and you should check this out: http://www.remodelista.com/posts/remodeling-101-shou-sugi-ban-uk-burnt-wood-siding-and-flooring


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

*My compitition isn't just using a CNC machine, he built the CNC machine! *

Jay had a rough-road this week while trying to get work done on his "Shop Time Throwdown" clock. He has chosen to build his clock from wooden gears, and while I am as obsessed with wooden geared clocks as the next guy it would never occur to me to start from scratch and design my gears without consulting the methods that clockmaker's before me had used and perfected. But that's how Jay rolls, and if it works my hat is off to him.

In the video linked below Jay gives his weekly update and shares some footage of the CNC machine that he built for his shop. He even throws in a funny joke for good measure.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

*Finally, something to put my face on.*

After torching and wire brushing the wood slats that will make-up the dial I decided to paint them black. Yes, that's on odd choice, but since the final effect is an aged patina I'm going to apply a crackled antique white as the final finish and I realized that there just wasn't going to be enough contrast without adding black.










Next I had the wrestle the 5' X 5' sheet of Baltic Birch ply up onto a Shopsmith Mark V that served as a make-shift assembly table. This backer board was painted green in the areas where the dial doesn't cover. Man, that stuff sucks paint!










I liked the looks of the charred wood so much that I decided to reprise it on my 2X4 frame pieces. The process of adding the 2X4 frame to the board began with the realization that I don't have many long clamps. In the end I wound up using one 6' pipe clamp and several K-Body clamps which were clamped to one another.










After flipping the board over and examining the results I realized that something was missing, and after a few quick rips on the Shopsmith bandsaw I had some trim to add to the frame.










I like how this is going. Next step; add the dial.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

*Time to make the dial.*

With the back and the frame finished it's time to attach the dial. The slats needed to be cut so that together they will produce a round dial, so I attached them to the back temporarily with double-sided tape and with a make-shift compass drew a circle on their face.










From there they were removed and individually cut to length on the bandsaw and attached to the plywood using wood glue, hot melt glue. Or so I thought. Some of the slats had developed crazy crooks and bows, and the hot melt was being overwhelmed, so I added a few 23Ga pins to the wild ones, which seemed to tame them.



















After waiting for the oversized 8mm dowel and turned out that it wasn't going to be long enough after all, so in the end I wound-up using an off the shelf carriage bolt from our local Ace Hardware Store. I mounted it from behind the panel and test fit the bearings with a few washers and nuts for proper spacing.










Next came the hands. I used an aspen board and after marking the length from the tip to the center I guesstimated the additional length that would be needed for the counterbalance. After considering and dismissing the use of PVC pipe for my counterbalance I settled upon Sutliff pipe tobacco tins, which are abundant in my shop. I traced one on the counterweight end of each hand and then cut the hands from the board using my Shopsmith bandsaw. The hands were drilled with my new 22mm Forstner bit, which proved to be horribly oversized for what I was hoping would be a snug fit, but they'll work with a little hot melt glue to secure them. These were fit on the arbor and given a little spin for fun.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

*Finish the hands *

Even though everything was to be rustic the hands needed a little sanding, so after 15+ years of resting I finally broke-out my Shopsmith Strip Sander, which made quick work of the job. I don't know why I don't reach for this tool more often because it was perfect for the task.










With the hands cut and sanded smooth (ish) the next task was to substantially lighten them. I did this by using a Forstner bit on my Shopsmith drill press.










The next thing that had to happen was to shorten the tobacco tins to their final size. This was so easy that one got away from me and just about ruined a Timberwolf blade. Just goes to show you not to get too comfortable and complacent.










There wasn't much to remove, but without this reduction the hands would have to be mounted much farther apart to allow them to pass one another.










I attached the tins to the hands using Titebond HiPUR hot melt polyurethane adhesive, which was a life saver on much of this build. Finally the hands were painted a satin black.










The lids to the tins also needed to be painted, and because they are plastic I had to do a little research to find the best choice of paint. I discovered Krylon Fusion, which will bond to the plastic and can be used on the wood parts too.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

*Final steps and the REVEAL VIDEO!*

Note: Don't miss the link to the video at the bottom of the post!

The final steps happened in a blur over the Easter weekend. The big reveal was pushed back to Easter day, 4/5/15 and because of the reprieve I did what I always do: procrastinate. So while the photos in this post are sparse the payoff will make it worthwhile.

Using my Shopsmith bandsaw I resawed a 22" length of 2X4 and freehand drew a capital "I", "V" and "X". Drawing isn't a skill that I was blessed with, so I was thankful to be using Roman numerals. After a quick count I was surprised to learn how many time the number "I" appears on a clock dial. Can you guess without looking? I traced these onto the pieces of resawn pine and cut them out on my bandsaw and gave them a couple quick coats of paint.










Fortunately I happened to have a paper dial laying around, so I cut a hole through the center and taped it to my large dial and using my compass to extend the lines to the "number ring" area of the dial. Again I used the Titebond HiPur hot melt to tack the numbers in place, and if any of them ever spring loose I'll tack them all with my 23Ga pinner for good measure.










As almost an afterthought I did a quick angled rip on my bandsaw on a 2X4 to serve as a cleat for mounting the clock, and I used liquid Nails and a couple TapCon scews to hold the lower cleat in place on the wall and gave it a few hours to cure.










After trying to lift the behemoth myself i called my son "Boy" to my shop and we lifted her into place and recorded the following video. Please note that the next and final post will contain a video that explains how the clock functions.


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## MyGrowthRings (May 4, 2008)

*Final Entry and the Secret to How the Clock Works.*

It's finally finished and if you've read this far you probably are curious how the clock is powered. It's all revealed in the video linked below. Thanks for reading, watching and commenting. Scott










Here's the video where the clock was revealed: 



Here's the video where the secrets are revealed:


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