# Ridgid R4512 question



## IppoJ (Feb 13, 2011)

I realize that table saw issues have been beat to death, because I've read, and read, and read but I am looking for a table saw and via a price match, etc ordered the Bosch 4100.
I know this isn't the ideal fine-woodworking saw but my space is severely limited and reviews made the 4100 sound like the best compromise.

My question though, is about the rails on the 4512. They are 58" long if I remember correctly but they are two pieces. Can I remove the long rail and one or both wings and center the shorter rail on the table? 
I looked at the 4512 today and because it has a mobile base I can fit it in my garage *IF* I can shorten the working width of the table.

My projects are/will be typically small with very little sheet work so I would rarely have to reattach the removed pieces.

Hoping someone has a definite answer because I would really prefer the Ridgid.

Thanks all.


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## IppoJ (Feb 13, 2011)

hmmm, well I just got a call saying the Bosch is ready to pick up so it sounds like Bosch it is.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

From what I can tell, it's a pretty capable saw from that genre. Unfortunately, I know little more than that. Good luck!


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## Blakep (Sep 23, 2010)

The Bosch and the Dewalt are the top rated two in the benchtop line. I used to have the Dewalt for a short time before I got my Delta. I looked at both of them and they both seemed like pretty good saws but the Dewalt seemed to have a sturdier base and I liked the rack and pinnion fence on the Dewalt. Either one will be a good benchtop saw though.


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## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

Buy the saw that fits your space, I wouldn't want to cut it down

or alter it because it take resale value away.


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## IppoJ (Feb 13, 2011)

I'm going to attempt a call into Ridgid and ask the question. 
Logic (hahaha) tells me that if aftermarket fences can be fitted to the R4512 then I should be able to find either a replacement rail or a shorter rail. But the realist in me tells me that it'll be a futile search.

I'll post up my answer from Ridgid when I get it.

Thanks all


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## Furnitude (Oct 18, 2008)

Hello,
I have a Ridgid R4512 and wanted to do the exact thing you are suggesting. I have a very small amount of space for a shop in my basement. I put it between a post that supports the house and my furnace, with barely enough room to squeeze around it. Unfortunately, the holes on the long portion of the fence don't match up with the holes on the saw and the wings to attach it. I think it would be possible to drill your own holes. It is only aluminum. If you did a good, neat job with them, it probably wouln't affect resale value very much. It would still be perfectly usable. The other problem is that the long portion doesn't reach the full length of the saw and the wings. Pretty close though. I'm working on a full review and am going to suggest this to Ridgid. If you have any other suggestions for improvements, please let me know.

You can see my journey with the R4512 here: http://furnitude.blogspot.com/search/label/Ridgid%20R4512

I'll be interested to see what Ridgid says. Enjoy!


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## IppoJ (Feb 13, 2011)

Mitch, I *just* read that trying to find my answer! Thanks for the insight!

It seems like an easy fix for Ridgid, they would simply have to re-engineer the mounting of the rails so that only the short rails could be attached to the existing holes. 
I am more than happy to be their test pilot…


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

There should be no reason that you can't do that with the R4512…both aluminum and cast iron drill nicely. The R4512 will be quieter, has more space to operate in front of the blade, has more torque, is heavier and more stable, should hold up better over time, and will be more feasible to repair or upgrade in the future. The Bosch will definitely be easier to move from site to site.

FWIW, a mobile base can be added to just about any saw. The Ridgid lift system is nice, but it's only a minor selling point IMHO.


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## IppoJ (Feb 13, 2011)

Thank you Scott, after your and other's responses I'm going to wait for the Ridgid and cancel the Bosch.

Here is the curious reply from Ridgid:

We have not mounted just the short rails. The rails would mount to the saw. However, you would have very limited use of the rip fence.

Best regards,

Tim


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## IppoJ (Feb 13, 2011)

I asked for clarification from Ridgid and heard exactly what I was hoping:
The bolts will go through the cast iron top then the rails will slide on the square bolt head. There should be no drilling.

Best regards,

Tim

On a similar note I stopped by Menard's over lunch and their *MasterCraft* store branded saw looks exactly like the R4512 and Sears 22183 except for the colors (Green and Gray) and the extruded rails are squared off instead of round. I'm also 99% sure that the MasterCraft drill presses are made by JET, it's a clone of the 707300 and has a three year warranty.


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## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

Good luck with your saw build, have fun ridgid's are great saws


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## ncdon (Jul 11, 2010)

I don't think you can go wrong with the ridgid 4512. It should easily adapt to your needs. More importantly, though is service after the sale. I have a Ridgid 4511 which I recently found out was on the recall list because of arbor problems. The recall offered free on site service. I contacted Ridgid customer service and they have bent over backwards to send a repair tech down to service my saw in my shop. It's taken a week and 2 calls to Ridgid to get a tech to travel the 60 or so miles down here, but the tech called me yesterday and said I should expect him between 8:30 and 9:00 this morning. I understand that Ridgid has agreed to pay their service center extra because of the time and distance involved.
You've got to love a company that will stand by there product like that.


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## ncdon (Jul 11, 2010)

update to my earlier post, 2 guys from Bryant electric, Norfolk, Va arrived at 7:45 this am, Changed my arbor. trued my saw and left. Truely great service. Don


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

Thanks for the update ncdon. That is one of the reasons why I lean toward Ridgid on many of my tool purchases. I have seen many stories like this where they stand behind their product. I don't buy on warranties alone, but it never fails to impress me when I see so many positive stories when they are used. Hope you love the saw.

David


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## IppoJ (Feb 13, 2011)

How to unload 280lbs by yourself.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Now that looks like a "more to come" photo!


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## IppoJ (Feb 13, 2011)

Packed very well. It reminded me of the Tamiya models that I've assembled. Everything neatly packed, arranged and well labeled.

I'm a little further along in getting it set up, I'll take a couple photos tonight, but I've run into a bit of a snag.
Rigid told me no redrilling would be required to use only the long rails but they were only 1/2 right. The front rail has a channel for the bolt heads so the bolts are floating. The back rail however, is drilled and of course none of the holes line up. 'Massaging' my available space has freed up enough room so I can store the saw with both wings on and the long rail is nearly an exact fit so I'm going to redrill the back rail. Hopefully I'll have time tonight.
I think I am also going to see if Ridgid will sell me a spare set of rails so I can have the full width when needed.

ps: I hope it's not improper etiquette here to post updates here. If so, please let me know. Each forum is a little different. Thanks all!


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## davidswoodwrks (Aug 14, 2010)

LOL love how you unloaded the saw and congrats on getting the ridgid. i had to do a similar unload when i got the RS4511, that one was 475 lbs, all by myself. lol. i used 1" pipe to do mine.


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## IppoJ (Feb 13, 2011)

David, those are big, 50 year old cedar planks that I've been trying to think of a project for.


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## IppoJ (Feb 13, 2011)

Here it is with the modified long rails mounted. Finally got a chance to make a couple cuts last night and I could barely be more impressed. Smooth and quiet. 
I've got the Ridgid T3 R1060C (that I picked up for $25!) that made gorgeous cross cuts in the spanish cedar, oak and 'mystery exotic' that I had.









I need to square up the miter but the fence seems dead on. I'm also trying to decide if I should run a 220v outlet for it or leave it at 110v. I like the idea of being able to plug it in to any 110 outlet but, honestly, it's not like I can throw it in the trunk and haul it to a friend's house. haha


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## Furnitude (Oct 18, 2008)

Great job on the fence. I need to do that on mine. Would you mind giving me the rundown on how you did it? Did you have to drill new holes through the fence?


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## IppoJ (Feb 13, 2011)

Thanks Mitch, 
the front rail was easy since the mounting bolts float in a track. 
for the back rail, I marked off the long rail where the existing holes in the table were, rigged a fence on my DP and drilled new holes. I think 3/8" for the mounting hole and then 1/2" for the access hole.
Of course none of the existing holes line up so I drilled 7 new holes. 
The best part is that I can still reconfigure it back to the full width when needed.

__

Tonight, hopefully, I'm going to square up the miter and then try a couple different waxes I have on the table and rails.


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## ncdon (Jul 11, 2010)

Dave, congratulations on the new saw, looks like you're about ready to make some serious sawdust. Good luck.


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## ichbinpete (Jan 12, 2011)

very nice! isn't it great when a plan comes together!


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## woodturtle (Oct 23, 2011)

Those of you interested you can order parts for the Rigid R4512. I intend to extend on the left side of the saw (30") and put a router in. I ordered the right side rails to install on the left. The front rail is slotted so I do not have to do any drilling or adapting. The rear rail should be a piece of cake (hoping anyway). The part numbers are listed in the manual for easy access.

I order from:

Gardner Inc
3641 Interchange Road
Columbus, Ohio 43204
1-800-848-8946

Really happy with my Ridgid R4512

Jim


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## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

Hey guys,
I realize I'm resurrecting a very old thread here and I apologize for that but I'm in the same exact boat as the OP. I want to purchase this saw but don't have that much room for the wings. For someone who has this saw, how much space is INSIDE of the wings from front to back? Also, is there any more detailed instructions on how to shorten/lengthen the wings at ease? I've not had a chance to see the saw in person but it has GLARING reviews all over and for me it's between this and the R4510 because they're essentially the same price but I'd rather have the heft of this one if I can fit it.

This is also my first post on the forums so please be gentle 

Matt


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Hi Matt - Any decent full size stationary saw like the R4512 will have several advantages over a portable jobsite saw like the R4510. Unless you need the portability or are severely space constrained, I'd go with the stationary saw.

The R4512 is made by Dayton, and is essentially identical to the Craftsman 21833. The standard table depth of these saws is 27" deep, which is how deep the wings are from front to back. The width of the table is ~ 20", with each wing adding ~ 10" of width for a total table width of 40". You can remove the wings, but the fence rails will still occupy the same amount of space, unless you modify the fence rail configuration.


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## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

Hi Scott,
Thanks for your detailed reply. For the 27" of depth, is that the inside measurement of the rails or the outside? The reason I ask is that I have a workbench that is mobile and 24" deep. If I can position the saw on the left side of a wall and put the workbench between those rails I should have enough room on that wall when storing the saw to not interrupt with the door that's in the middle of the wall. If it's not an inside measurement then I suppose the workbench won't fit in between there.

Also I see that there is a bar on the right side of the rails (excuse my ignorance but I don't know what to call all these parts, I'm fairly new to woodworking and have limited knowledge of saws and their part names) which would hinder me being able to fit that workbench between those rails. If you could shed any more light on that and if thats something I can remove (at least for storage purposes if it's easy to take off/put on) that'd be great.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

The 27" table depth is the measurement between the rails.


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## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

that's great news Scott! that'd work for me then, the only thing I have to figure out now is the bar that holds the rails together on the right side.  Any word on that?


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

The bar between the front and rear rail on the right side are to add strength to the aluminum rails. It shouldn't be necessary if your shorten the rails like "IppoJ" did (see his pics above), or if you provide another source of rigidity like a work bench, router table, or extension table.

Here's an example of a router table on a Ridgid TS3650 that replaces that bar… the fence is fairly similar to the R4512's:


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## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

Gotcha, that makes sense. In essence I could remove that bar and do with the router table insert like that image since I need to make a router table anyway. If you don't mind me asking, where did you get that image from? I'd like to see if there is a guide to how that table was made if possible.

Thanks for all your help knotscott, it's greatly appreciated.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

The bar is held in place by 4 screws. 
It maintains the spacing between the rails for the fence.

At least it's that way on my Sears Craftsman 21833. Almost the same saw as the Ridgid R4512.


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## mprzybylski (Nov 21, 2011)

So in essence when I need to store it I should be able to unscrew that quickly and put the bar away so I can fit my workbench in between the rails, right? If that's the case, I should be good to go in purchasing this saw! Pardon me but I'm quite excited about it.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

*If you don't mind me asking, where did you get that image from? *

Google.com "Ridgid 3650 router table".

p.s.: When you get a new saw, do the saw and yourself a favor a buy a decent blade for any furniture or finewoodworking projects. Save the stock blade for cutting junk lumber from your friends and neighbors!


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## Rockbuster (Apr 5, 2011)

I have the older Ridgid TS3650 . Just wondering how much difference there is between it and the R4512. I have no intention of getting rid of the TS3650 It has been and still is a great machine, just curious. At the time I bought it, I also bought their 13" planer. At that time, Ridgid had a policy of guaranteed for life, do they still offer this on their products?


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

The 3650 is a traditional contractor saw with an outboard motor. The R4512 is more of a hybrid with the motor tucked inside the enclosure, which has several advantages. The R4512 also has a riving knife vs the standard splitter on the 3650, but Ridgid downgraded to steel on the R4512 instead of solid cast iron. Both have the same size table area and similar power and duty ratings…AFAIK the fences are similar too, but the 3650 had a single front rail, whereas the R4512's is a two piece rail.

Ridgid still offers a Lifetime Service Agreement (LSA), but it's not a complete warranty for life. Read the details to see what it covers and what it doesn't. You also need to register for it, it's not automatic.


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## sp5937 (Mar 12, 2009)

I bought this saw at Home Depot back in Feb of 2011. I LOVE this saw, it is extremely quiet, acurate, easy to use, and did I say accurate?

However…there are problems with the dado capability. You cannot use 8" dado blades, and I do not have 6" ones. Also, there is no dado throat plate. Also, Ridgid has not come up witj a way to overcome that release lever for the splitter…so, I just do not use the saw for dados.

Also, the throat plate is so thin, you cannot make your own zero clearance plates…or maybe I just do not know how…

Anyone have anything about this? A solution?


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## DMIHOMECENTER (Mar 5, 2011)

I have the 4512. I bought the zero clearance plates from Leecraft for 24.99. One for a thin kerf blade and another for standard.

They have the dado insert now as well for 28.99 but I don't have it because I will dado with a router before fooling with all that changeover time and expense (blade, zci).

Model #RG-5 Leecraft Zero-Clearance Table Saw Insert fits the new RIDGID R4512 W/RIiving Knife
Model #RG-6 Leecraft Zero-Clearance Table Saw Insert fits the new RIDGID R4512 For Dado Sets


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## IppoJ (Feb 13, 2011)

"Also, there is no dado throat plate."

This probably won't help too much but, Menards sells this same saw under their Masterforce brand and it ships with a dado insert so I assume they would sell that as a replacement part. http://tinyurl.com/d6m9pch


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## jaydubya (Sep 13, 2010)

The craftsman 21833 that I have also comes with a dado insert, and im sure Sears parts is easier to deal with than the 9.00/hr college student at menards who worked in electrical last week.


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## anobium (Dec 25, 2011)

All right, I read quite a bit and could use some more info and help.
Here in Germany we have nothing similar to the r4512 unless you go into real woodshop equipment.
Ridgid here is a name brand for pipe inspection you can order only through special retailers.
Those don't carry woodworking tools.
I remember seeing Ridgid at home depot when I was in the states. The average jobsite saw here starts at 600$ and you get over 1000 if you ask for a little precision. First of all I am looking for way to ship that obviously heavy box but before that I am wondering if miterslots and other things on that saw or in the us in general have a certain standard so I can get things some time down the road.
Does it have the option to allign the table to the blade? how easy is it to set up? Is ridgid a name brand over there?
Looking for equipment outside the country is interesting. I am thankful for any help.
(Same on thicknessplaner (1300$ here) and a router for a router table.
Don't mean to go off topic though


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