# finishing a live edge slab - suggestions to achieve certain finish



## contento

Greetings all! I'm getting ready to dive into my first live edge slab piece (bathroom vanity counter top) and I need some advice on how best to finish it to get the desired look.

Here is an example of the finish I'm looking to get (super smooth, satin sheen):









Since this is going to be in the bathroom and likely getting wet, I'll need to make sure I take that into consideration when finishing (meaning if I can't get waterproof with a satin finish, then I'll chose a different finish).

The wood I'm probably going to be working with is Bishop wood (of which I know little about). This is a finished board I found a picture of:








I'm hopefully getting a really nice slab of this. If not, I'll be using a piece of black walnut that I already have.

So, the questions:
- depending on which of the two woods I'm using, will I need to take different steps to achieve the finish or will both types essentially take the same steps?
- what products and process would you recommend for prepping and finishing to get the desired finish? I've read and see some guys sand then use hot linseed oil first, then a shelac seal coat, finer sanding and more shelac, then rubbing out the finish.

Thanks all for any recommendations! I'll post photos along the way.


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## Mahdeew

For humid area like in the bathroom/Shower place, I would go with oil poly or lacquer for both. Have to cover all sides and bottom as well.


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## Mahdeew

Charles Neal has a nice youtube video on how to bring the shine out to the level you desire.


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## contento

this Charles Neil?


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## Mahdeew

That is the man: Here is the video


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## contento

awesome. thanks. watching it now.


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## bigblockyeti

Here's a picture of a live edge stool I made, finished in waterborne poly. I think it was old masters. Something happened to the finish in the can as it came out like pudding, the tech support guy suspected it probably froze at some point. At any rate, it turned out better than I expected and further sanding between coats could have easily resulted in an even smoother finish. The higher than normal viscosity did help with bark a little.


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## contento

so…
- oil based shleac or satin lacquer like this

- 1200 grit on my random orbital + lube (he uses soapy water)
- 2000 grit abralon pad + lube

then what? he doesn't speak to anything beyond that. Will that be where I stop or should I be applying something further (wax, etc)?

My biggest question then is what about BEFORE I start hitting it with the shellac? I get it sanded to perfect. Then what? Is there anything I should hit it with before the shellac to seal it, bring out the color/grain, fill pores, etc?

Once more..thanks all!


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## CharlesNeil

You get your slab and lets see what you have, then we can go from there, depending on the slab and the condition, will determine what we want to use as a finish,, When you have the slad , and before you start, PM me and I will help you through it.


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## contento

Hey Charles. Thanks for chiming in. Great videos, btw. Very helpful for someone green (excuse the pun) like me. I've done plenty of work with wood, but never a serious focal point piece like this.

I have the Walnut slab now.









Hopefully I'll have the Bishop wood soon. Even if I DO get the slab of Bishop, this hunk of Walnut is going to be the next project, done is the same exact satin smooth finish for my living room. The only difference is that it won't need to be super waterproof, but living in South Florida, I do have to deal with the humidity.


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## CharlesNeil

Do you want to color the sap wood or leave it.. Do you want to "help" the " free form look " if so take a look

http://www.cn-woodworking.com/creating-a-live-edge/


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## contento

I definitely want to leave the sap wood light for the dramatic contrast. It may be hard to tell in the photo but the back (left in the pic) is already squared as are the ends. The front (right) edge is still bark on. I'm planning on stripping the bark (still learning the ins and outs of doing that from pressure washers to draw knives), then seeing how much character is in the edge. I do plan on doing some carving on it because I am in love with the edge of that photo that I posted at the top. I might not get THAT crazy with my carving, but the short answer is "yes" and I appreciate the video link. Watching it now.


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## mojapitt

I definitely would use oil based poly. But as said earlier, make sure that you seal all sides and edges properly.


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## contento

Thanks Monte.

I'm still looking for a recommendation on an order of attack. I'm sure it's not just sand it smooth and hit it with Poly and call it a day (that is of course if I want the best, richest, results). I'm eager to hear what Charles has in a method for me.


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## CharlesNeil

What I am waiting on is to see it surfaced and sanded, and then see what we have. We have numerous products we could go with. We could use a good urethane oil finish, however if you want the stark sapwood /heart wood , assuming its nice and white, then the oil could "tan " it, same with an epoxy.Epoxy would be a good choice if we have checks and other defects., or your after a super tough finish. If we have a nice surface and want to maintain the wood colors as close to what they are , then a water base would be a good option , Or we could use a good oil, to enhance the color, and then a water base, and then perhaps rub the finish to a satin, glass smooth surface. We could also do the same with an epoxy, or a lacquer . The possibilities are numerous.. Lets see what we have before we commit .


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## contento

Ok, so first thing to do is to get the bark off and the entire piece sanded down. Got it. How smooth should I be taking it at this point? 320? 600? 1500?

A few of the things you mentioned are what I'm after…hopefully they can be achieved in unison:

- waterproof (going in my bathroom)
- the sapwood isn't white, so I'm not to worried about it losing it's "whiteness" but I do want the sharp contrast since the heartwood is so dark and interesting.
- "rub the finish to a satin, glass smooth surface" If the very first photo at the top that I posted of that gorgeous bar top is a close match to this, then that's exactly what I want.


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## CharlesNeil

to get the finish you have in the first post… No Problem !

Sand to about 180, no need to go any further. Then we will go from there


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## TheBoxWhisperer

I would do whatever Charles Neil tells you to do. To the letter. This forum is amazing, that people like Mr Neil will come out and help people. This is like getting guitar tips from Eric Clapton. Is it true that Tommy Mac used to post on here as well?


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## contento

Greetings all. Sorry for the unexpected hiatus from from my thread. Unfortunately, in the midst of my project, my mom passed away. Needless to say, we've had a lot to deal with. It has been nice to turn to the wood to clear my head.

So, with that, here is where I am at:
- planed a substantial cup out of the piece by hand with a Harbor Freight electric plane. For my first attempt at planing and with a $45 tool, I have to say, I'm very pleased with the results
- the piece has been cut down to size. Again, by hand with nothing but a framing square and a skill saw.
- I've hand-carved the free edge (not against the wall) to give it more of a "live" feel. Used my die grinder and a sanding disk for most of it.
- the front edge had to be worked back quite a bit to remove some of the too-dry and brittle bits and get to the hard wood. More creative carving had to be done.
- sanded the entire piece from 36 grit (to handle some of the planing edges) all the way to 150 and she is really looking and feeling nice!





































As you can see, there are a couple of canyons on the top of the piece. They really give it some awesome character so my intent is to preserve them. I was thinking that I would fill them will the clear epoxy leveled to the surface before I get into any further finishing. Of course, I'm looking for suggestions on this.

I still need to cut the hole for the sink and the faucet, so I don't want to do any finshing work until then, but what say you all? What do you think? What's next in my process?

and as always, thanks!!


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## bobssc

Wow that looks beautiful! I am excited to see how it ends up when you are finished with it.


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## contento

Me, too, Robert! LOL


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## CharlesNeil

Your looking good, go ahead and get your sink cut out, and then sand it to about 180, be sure to keep this in a plastic bag when not working on it, then drop me a pm, and we will get together on the phone, too much to type, but then you can post your progress and what you do, Should be fun to watch this come together

here are a couple of blogs I did on the the subject http://intheworkshop.wordpress.com/2010/10/19/clario-slab-finishing-and-stuff/

This one you have to scroll thru the photos to the end , the walnut slab was split cracked and just a mess, but the epoxy save it, http://intheworkshop.wordpress.com/2013/04/22/stump-table-aka-swamp-art/

In the first blog we sprayed the epoxy with another finish to lessen the sheen, in your case I would like to have you rub it, so folks can see how it is done..

Will be out of town over the weekend, but will try to respond as best I can..


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## contento

Awesome as always Charles!

That walnut slab is gorgeous. I love the finish and it sounds exactly like what I want (epoxy to complete seal it up, then rubbed down to satin).

I wish the sink would hurry up and get here! I'll be back around when the holes are done.


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## contento

ok, all. The sink came in Friday (like 6 days early)! Gave me the weekend to tackle the holes and sanding. Cutting the sink hole was ridiculously hard. This wood is SO hard! I went through jigsaw blades one after the other. I've got the entire piece sanded to 220.

So, it's on to the finishing!

Charles, I'll PM you now. In case I forget to say it enough, thanks tons!


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## Randy_ATX

Very nice. I've had this on my watch list since the start.
Sorry to hear about the passing of your mom.


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## contento

ok, so after speaking at length with the Master, I have a clear plan of attack.

- started by plugging up the cracks and holes from the bottom then pouring a mix of Glaze Coat resin into the caverns from the top. I had to do this is 2 steps, as the cracks needed time to cure to plug up the runner cracks so that I could then fully fill the cracks to the level top

- tonight I did a seal-coat of the Glaze Coat resin cut with 25% acetone. Started on the bottom, then flipped it onto nail boards and did the top.



















- tomorrow night, I'll sand everything with 220grit then hit it with another 25% cut seal coat. After that, that's when it gets fun (final coats, sanding, and buffing)


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## Woodendeavor

Charles Neil, Why do you want him to keep it in plastic? I have worked with slabs a few times and this I did not understand. Could you explain?


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## CharlesNeil

Any wood panels, when exposed can have a tendency to cup, Slabs as well, especially when you have to remove alot of material. You open it up, and in doing so expose surfaces thet are not as dry as the outer surfaces, and as it dries, it can cup, especially when laid on a bench or similar , where one side is exposed more than the other.

Even if wood is kiln dried and all the precautions taken , when you plane it , and so forth you open it up, and it will dry further, this is why we always skim plane our wood and allow it to acclimate. Makes a big difference.

once a panel is processed , and flat, putting it in a plastic bag maintains the moisture content as is, and it isnt exposed to air so it stays flat . Typically most panels cup due to an imbalance in moisture from one side to the other. that swhay often you can take a cupped panel and lay it out in the sun with the convex side up and it will reverse. This happens because your drying that side further, and as it dries it shrinks. Another thing I do is to stand uncovered panels, not lay them , unless I cover them . This is to maintain an equal exposure.

If you take a flat panel and lay it on a bench and have a ceiling fan or any other air moving over the exposed surface its very likely it will cup .


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## contento

ok, update…

- The final flood coat has cured for about 48 hours:



























- I lightly wet sanded with 600 grit paper and soapy water for lube per Charles' instructions (to help it cure better), and now it'll sit for a few more days to fully cure. Then it'll be 600/1200 grit wet sand, 1000 grit abralon, 2000 grit abralon, then hand-buffed with automotive grade swirl remover.


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## contento

and so it's finished.

- 600 & 1200 wetsand to get a super smooth even finish, using a spray bottle with soapy water for lubrication, keeping the material that is removed cleaned off of the surface as I go.
- 1000 then 2000 grit abralon pads also with a bit of the soapy water for lube and also keeping it clean. I opted not to go with the 3000 grit because I didn't want to promote too much of a gloss in the finish
- finally, a good hand-rubbed finish using 3M swirl remover, applied just as Mr. Miagi would have it done: wax on, wax off.

The finish is an ultra-smooth, buttery soft, satin













































I have some additional tile work to do on the wall, so I'll be taking the top back out to protect it. While it's out, I'll probably rub it out again…just not sure with what yet. Maybe a really high-grade carnuba wax (Charles?)

flaws: the piece came out INCREDIBLY, but being the amateur I am, there are flaws (that won't be there next time). If you are going to tackle a similar project, these notes are for you:

- be sure the piece is level all through the process, I made the mistake of not leveling it but realized it before I started applying the resin. The problem is that I realized as I was stirring it! You don't get much time to apply it once mixed, so I was scrambling to level the piece securely.

- bubbles: your worst enemy. When bubbles form in the resin after you apply it, they become pits when they pop. Pits in the resin once cured are noticeable. There is a process for using a hand propane torch for gently heating the area with the bubble to release it. I failed to know that before hand, so yes, I have some little pits here and there. If I wasn't making a live edge style piece, I'd be unhappy, but since the piece is what it is, the pits are just more character…at least that's what I'm telling myself.

- my biggest issue is with a couple of spots that I tried to fill in/flood with resin. the areas seemed to be drying a little thin (noticeably), so I tried to flow a bit more material over them. I think a combination of waiting too long to do it (the resin probably was starting to cure a bit) and not having a torch to heat the areas a bit was my mistake. The couple of areas have a bit of puddling and while I was able to address them a bit through the sanding process, I was scared to be too aggressive it taking them down totally.

All in all, the piece is fantastic. I'm very proud of it, and while I could have done it on my own, no WAY would it have come out this good…Mr. Niel, you are a master and a gentleman to reach out and help! I owe you.


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## Randy_ATX

I've been "watching" this the whole time. MAN did that turn out NICE! Great job and you are fortunate to have the help from CN like you did. Thanks to you both for helping others out with instruction and documenting your progress. I've got some slabs cooking in a solar kiln right now.


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## CharlesNeil

uh oh ..My bad..I totally forgot to tell you about using the butane tourch to eliminate bubbles, as welkl you can exhale on it ..its the carbon dioxide that breaks the bubbles,,,

Some have even used dry ice and let the vapors drift over

As to the pits, You can dribble a little epoxy in them with a toothpick, it would be good to take a drill bit and just slightly abrade the inside of the pit, let it cure , sand flush and rub it out again..

Sorry for not remembering ..


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## contento

no worries Charles! It'll give me something more to do on it.

What do you think about a finishing coat of wax like I mentioned. Maybe a high-grade carnuba? Anything you like in particular? nothing at all?


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## BarbS

What a great process to watch! Thanks so much for sharing what you were doing. The result is stunning. 
And I love hearing Charles' advice as you went along. 
Here's a plug for Mr. Neil's Wood Finishing class, a very worthwhile webinar for those interested: Online Finishing Class


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## vikingcape

Wow that turned out great! Amazing to have a finishing master helping someone along so nicely too


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## endgrainy

Thanks for this thread, I was watching along too. Great work contento - a truly custom project, one of a kind. Came out beautifully. Thanks for all of the great advice CharlesNeil.


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## stefang

I would check out the epoxy finishes. They look great on live edge work and protect really well against moisture. They are thicker and therefore more protective on those rough edges. I used a good quality poly on some kitchen counters which did stay nice for about 5 years. I used 3 coats with light sanding in between. Also a good way to go, but abrasion will dull the surface after awhile, maybe not such a problem in a bathroom.


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## Cobra77

I am about to finish a slab of walnut and use it as a fireplace mantel. Couple question: 1. someone was telling me that is should be kiln dried to kill any bugs and get a uniform drying before finishing it. Do I need to kiln dry? 2. I am an amateur and have read lots of different things to use. I want to keep the contrast, but bring out the rich darkness too. Also, want glossy finish. What should I use? Do I need to use something different as it will be exposed to some heat from the fireplace? Should I drill the mounting holes before finishing and seal the inside of the holes?


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## Dogtor

What was the reason and ratio of the acetone cut?


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## Dogtor

I'm trying to finish this similar to how contento did his sink. It's going to be a bar top. Contento can you give me a more detailed "recipe" on how you did it?


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## contento

> What was the reason and ratio of the acetone cut?
> 
> - Dogtor


The acetone cut on the first coat of epoxy helps it to penetrate the wood, locking it down and sealing it. That way, the next, more important top-coat pours are more even. Certain areas of the slab will absorb more than others and if you head right to a heavy, regular pour, some areas will be absorbed more than others causing some issues. That is far less eloquent than Charles could explain, but that's the gist of it.

As for the recipe, I think it's pretty well documented through this post. Is there something in particular I can answer for you? I've done quite a few slabs now with this finish.


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## Dogtor

So just use a thin coat of epoxy and acetone mixture on the first coat, sand, then make a thicker pour. How much acetone do you put in the epoxy?


> What was the reason and ratio of the acetone cut?
> 
> - Dogtor
> 
> The acetone cut on the first coat of epoxy helps it to penetrate the wood, locking it down and sealing it. That way, the next, more important top-coat pours are more even. Certain areas of the slab will absorb more than others and if you head right to a heavy, regular pour, some areas will be absorbed more than others causing some issues. That is far less eloquent than Charles could explain, but that s the gist of it.
> 
> As for the recipe, I think it s pretty well documented through this post. Is there something in particular I can answer for you? I ve done quite a few slabs now with this finish.
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> - contento


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## contento

Be sure to go back and read the thread from the beginning. Not because of what I have to offer, but because Charles Neil is kind enough to share his expertise. The acetone cut is 25% (that's in the thread). A VERY IMPORTANT POINT about cutting the epoxy: do NOT mix the acetone with either of the parts of the resin. Mix your resin fully first (both parts) THEN cut it. Otherwise, you will negatively effect the way the 2 parts work together.

Once you have that seal coat (thinned resin) coat washed on and fully cured, then you'll move to the thicker pours. Make sure you mix enough resin for each pour. Nothing worse than being a little short on your mix and having spots that didn't flood coat evenly.

Be patient. Do NOT rush between stages. Allow the resin to cure and rest before sanding it.

Go get a little propane torch. You HAVE TO HAVE ONE for this process. You'll use it to keep the bubbles out of the finish, but if you aren't careful, direct heat can also negatively effect how the resin cures.


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## Dogtor

thanks

The acetone cut on the first coat of epoxy helps it to penetrate the wood, locking it down and sealing it. That way, the next, more important top-coat pours are more even. Certain areas of the slab will absorb more than others and if you head right to a heavy, regular pour, some areas will be absorbed more than others causing some issues. That is far less eloquent than Charles could explain, but that s the gist of it.

As for the recipe, I think it s pretty well documented through this post. Is there something in particular I can answer for you? I ve done quite a few slabs now with this finish.


















- contento
[/QUOTE]


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## diydreamer

Hi contento, this thread caught my interest as we're about to finish a live edge black walnut slab as a floating step in the bathroom. I'm wondering how your wood is holding up in that environment? Also curious about the color of the wood - has it changed over time? My understanding is that walnut can lose it's beautiful reddish hue when exposed to light, and that a UV blocking stain or sealant is advisable. Did you use any sort of stain before sealing? Lastly, could you please advise on the epoxy you used? Thanks in advance!!


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## contento

It's been a long time and we've actually moved out of that house so I honestly have no recent info on it. Sorry. I can tell you that since then, I've done a lot of wood and epoxy work. I won't say I've mastered it, but gotten pretty good at it. You can check out my work at facebook.com/contentowoodworks

The first application of the acetone cut epoxy acts to seal it. Not sure how much that protects from UV.

I've used a bunch of different epoxies from cheap to top notch. I can get away with cheaper epoxy if I'm tinting it, but to go totally clear, my favorite product is EcoPoxy. It's a 2:1 so it cures more slowly but it's Crystal clear and debubble itself really well.


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## diydreamer

Thanks for your quick reply. I checked out your facebook page, your work is gorgeous! I've never seen colored epoxy used like that - it's an interesting juxtaposition with the neutral wood tones.

I'm thinking I'll use a Solar-Lux stain (actually a fade and UV resistant dye) before applying the epoxy…not sure if that'll work or if it's even necessary. The wood color of your countertop looks perfect as it is, a nice warm brown. But we have skylights in the bathroom and get a lot of light, so I'm worried about the color changing or fading.

Thanks for the recommendation of the EcoPoxy. Could you tell me which product you use? It looks like there are two options. Thanks.


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