# Virtual Designs in Sketchup



## rance

*Wall / Portable Tool Rack*

I seem to have a lot of SU drawings that I do that may or may not ever be built. Either way, I thought others might benefit from them.

This first one is a paged tool rack similar to ones I'm sure you've seen in several publications. Some I like, some I see blatant flaws in. This style reminds me of the days way back when I would go to the Dept. Store and look at the blacklight posters.










A couple of changes I've made include being able to quickly and easily remove it from the wall mount and work with it on the bench. For less used tools, they could just as easilly be stored on a shelf or slid into a purpose-built cubby hole.










I also designed this with single 3/8" plexiglass panels to more easilly find the tool you are looking for. Plywood can easilly be used in place of the plexiglass. I chose against the sometimes more popular peg board for a reason. For me, once I decide where I wanted to hang something on the wall, it pretty much didn't ever change. If it ever did, I didn't mind the holes it left behind in the cases where I just used plywood.

I designed these for square panels, making the frame pieces ALL the same length. This aleviates having Rails and Stiles that are manufactured differently, making it easier to build.

Here's the frame assembly. For the life of me, I cannot recall why I needed the gussets on all 4 corners. The two on the dowel side are mostly cosmetic to cover up the dowels, simply glued in place. It was expected that the holes for the dowels would be drilled after each rack was assembled.










EDIT: More pictures:

Here's a better view of one of the Racks.










And some details of the 2×4's holding it to the wall. Lag bolts/washers holding it to the wall are not shown. The washers could be cut from a milk jug. In addition, a support block under the lower support might be in order.










Lastly, a shot looking down the end of the upper support with the end face removed. Note the vertical holes on this support. Once drilled, carefully tilt the support about 10 degrees to 'waller out' the hole, but only forwards. This allows the upper dowel to be rotated the 9 degrees needed for removal of each of the racks.










Caveat: As with most of my projects and designs, I stand on the shoulders of those that have gone before me. It is infinitely easier to modify a good design someone else dreamed up than to come up with the whole thing on my own. All comments, suggestions, and criticisms are welcome.


----------



## LeeJ

rance said:


> *Wall / Portable Tool Rack*
> 
> I seem to have a lot of SU drawings that I do that may or may not ever be built. Either way, I thought others might benefit from them.
> 
> This first one is a paged tool rack similar to ones I'm sure you've seen in several publications. Some I like, some I see blatant flaws in. This style reminds me of the days way back when I would go to the Dept. Store and look at the blacklight posters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of changes I've made include being able to quickly and easily remove it from the wall mount and work with it on the bench. For less used tools, they could just as easilly be stored on a shelf or slid into a purpose-built cubby hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also designed this with single 3/8" plexiglass panels to more easilly find the tool you are looking for. Plywood can easilly be used in place of the plexiglass. I chose against the sometimes more popular peg board for a reason. For me, once I decide where I wanted to hang something on the wall, it pretty much didn't ever change. If it ever did, I didn't mind the holes it left behind in the cases where I just used plywood.
> 
> I designed these for square panels, making the frame pieces ALL the same length. This aleviates having Rails and Stiles that are manufactured differently, making it easier to build.
> 
> Here's the frame assembly. For the life of me, I cannot recall why I needed the gussets on all 4 corners. The two on the dowel side are mostly cosmetic to cover up the dowels, simply glued in place. It was expected that the holes for the dowels would be drilled after each rack was assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: More pictures:
> 
> Here's a better view of one of the Racks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some details of the 2×4's holding it to the wall. Lag bolts/washers holding it to the wall are not shown. The washers could be cut from a milk jug. In addition, a support block under the lower support might be in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, a shot looking down the end of the upper support with the end face removed. Note the vertical holes on this support. Once drilled, carefully tilt the support about 10 degrees to 'waller out' the hole, but only forwards. This allows the upper dowel to be rotated the 9 degrees needed for removal of each of the racks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Caveat: As with most of my projects and designs, I stand on the shoulders of those that have gone before me. It is infinitely easier to modify a good design someone else dreamed up than to come up with the whole thing on my own. All comments, suggestions, and criticisms are welcome.


Cool drawing.

Lee


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## degoose

rance said:


> *Wall / Portable Tool Rack*
> 
> I seem to have a lot of SU drawings that I do that may or may not ever be built. Either way, I thought others might benefit from them.
> 
> This first one is a paged tool rack similar to ones I'm sure you've seen in several publications. Some I like, some I see blatant flaws in. This style reminds me of the days way back when I would go to the Dept. Store and look at the blacklight posters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of changes I've made include being able to quickly and easily remove it from the wall mount and work with it on the bench. For less used tools, they could just as easilly be stored on a shelf or slid into a purpose-built cubby hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also designed this with single 3/8" plexiglass panels to more easilly find the tool you are looking for. Plywood can easilly be used in place of the plexiglass. I chose against the sometimes more popular peg board for a reason. For me, once I decide where I wanted to hang something on the wall, it pretty much didn't ever change. If it ever did, I didn't mind the holes it left behind in the cases where I just used plywood.
> 
> I designed these for square panels, making the frame pieces ALL the same length. This aleviates having Rails and Stiles that are manufactured differently, making it easier to build.
> 
> Here's the frame assembly. For the life of me, I cannot recall why I needed the gussets on all 4 corners. The two on the dowel side are mostly cosmetic to cover up the dowels, simply glued in place. It was expected that the holes for the dowels would be drilled after each rack was assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: More pictures:
> 
> Here's a better view of one of the Racks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some details of the 2×4's holding it to the wall. Lag bolts/washers holding it to the wall are not shown. The washers could be cut from a milk jug. In addition, a support block under the lower support might be in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, a shot looking down the end of the upper support with the end face removed. Note the vertical holes on this support. Once drilled, carefully tilt the support about 10 degrees to 'waller out' the hole, but only forwards. This allows the upper dowel to be rotated the 9 degrees needed for removal of each of the racks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Caveat: As with most of my projects and designs, I stand on the shoulders of those that have gone before me. It is infinitely easier to modify a good design someone else dreamed up than to come up with the whole thing on my own. All comments, suggestions, and criticisms are welcome.


I really like this idea… totally cool


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## Ken90712

rance said:


> *Wall / Portable Tool Rack*
> 
> I seem to have a lot of SU drawings that I do that may or may not ever be built. Either way, I thought others might benefit from them.
> 
> This first one is a paged tool rack similar to ones I'm sure you've seen in several publications. Some I like, some I see blatant flaws in. This style reminds me of the days way back when I would go to the Dept. Store and look at the blacklight posters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of changes I've made include being able to quickly and easily remove it from the wall mount and work with it on the bench. For less used tools, they could just as easilly be stored on a shelf or slid into a purpose-built cubby hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also designed this with single 3/8" plexiglass panels to more easilly find the tool you are looking for. Plywood can easilly be used in place of the plexiglass. I chose against the sometimes more popular peg board for a reason. For me, once I decide where I wanted to hang something on the wall, it pretty much didn't ever change. If it ever did, I didn't mind the holes it left behind in the cases where I just used plywood.
> 
> I designed these for square panels, making the frame pieces ALL the same length. This aleviates having Rails and Stiles that are manufactured differently, making it easier to build.
> 
> Here's the frame assembly. For the life of me, I cannot recall why I needed the gussets on all 4 corners. The two on the dowel side are mostly cosmetic to cover up the dowels, simply glued in place. It was expected that the holes for the dowels would be drilled after each rack was assembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: More pictures:
> 
> Here's a better view of one of the Racks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some details of the 2×4's holding it to the wall. Lag bolts/washers holding it to the wall are not shown. The washers could be cut from a milk jug. In addition, a support block under the lower support might be in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, a shot looking down the end of the upper support with the end face removed. Note the vertical holes on this support. Once drilled, carefully tilt the support about 10 degrees to 'waller out' the hole, but only forwards. This allows the upper dowel to be rotated the 9 degrees needed for removal of each of the racks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Caveat: As with most of my projects and designs, I stand on the shoulders of those that have gone before me. It is infinitely easier to modify a good design someone else dreamed up than to come up with the whole thing on my own. All comments, suggestions, and criticisms are welcome.


Very cool! I like it… Look fwd to seeing this come along!


----------



## rance

*Workshop Expansion for a Friend*

A friend of mine asked if I could help him with a SU drawing for his workshop expansion. He currently has a 16×24 space that he is quickly outgrowing. He has done some woodworking in the past with carving and other things but recently got the bug to step it up a notch. He is planning on having the shell built by a contractor and he and I will finish the inside. Here's a profile view. You can see his existing shop at the rear.










Note: The Tractor, fence, and garden plots were obtained from Google 3D Warehouse. You have to be careful what you get from there. Many of the objects come with a pretty hefty cost with regard to file size. With a little careful planning, file size can be kept managable. Ya just have to think about it when you are building your objects.

Another view from the front:










And a view from the left side, which I left exposed for viewing. I just noticed we're missing a couple of studs. Hope the builder doesn't do the same. 










Once it is finished, I'll try to get some pictures of the result. That'll be several weeks though.


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## americancanuck

rance said:


> *Workshop Expansion for a Friend*
> 
> A friend of mine asked if I could help him with a SU drawing for his workshop expansion. He currently has a 16×24 space that he is quickly outgrowing. He has done some woodworking in the past with carving and other things but recently got the bug to step it up a notch. He is planning on having the shell built by a contractor and he and I will finish the inside. Here's a profile view. You can see his existing shop at the rear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: The Tractor, fence, and garden plots were obtained from Google 3D Warehouse. You have to be careful what you get from there. Many of the objects come with a pretty hefty cost with regard to file size. With a little careful planning, file size can be kept managable. Ya just have to think about it when you are building your objects.
> 
> Another view from the front:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a view from the left side, which I left exposed for viewing. I just noticed we're missing a couple of studs. Hope the builder doesn't do the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once it is finished, I'll try to get some pictures of the result. That'll be several weeks though.


I did the same thing when I converted my 60 yr old single car garage to a shop and SU was such a great help. I was able to make, and correct, many of the mistakes while sitting in my easy chair. It was also invaluable when I purchased my materials. I still refer to the original model often. Really nice model that you did. Good luck with your project.


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## rance

*Rolling Tool Cart*










I got the inspiration for this from Workbench Magazine . I deliberately did not look at their drawings for dimensions or scale.










This cart looked like a good design. As with many projects, it is infinitely easier to customize an existing design rather than come up with all original ideas. How many times do we stand on the shoulders of giants that have gone before us?

The inner structure:









I replaced the pegboard on theirs with 1/2" plywood thinking I would simply screw tool holders and such to the plywood. Then I though French Cleats might be better. This led me to thinking about the use of the cart. I could roll it around the shop, gathering up tools and such for a project. Then roll it over to my work area and create all the sawdust one would want. After that project was complete, then I could reconfigure it for another project.










The thinking above sorta requires you 'buy into' the Whole-Shop French-Cleat mindset. It would make changes infinitely easier down the road.

I also wanted to add some clamp storage to the cart. By replacing their inner ply panel with two, then I could put clamps in that slot. Keep in mind this is not meant for "all the clamps in your shop", just the ones for a particular job. Or maybe a subset would always reside in this cart. Being the frugal person I am. I then changed those two inner panels to just plywood strips. These are more easilly obtained from my favorite sport "Dumpster Diving".  Same rule applies to scraps you may have lying around.










Economy of lumber:
Plywood ends are 1/2.
Plywood bottom and shelves are 3/4. 
All solid wood is sized to be easilly ripped from 2×4 scraps.

I designed mine as 18×36 at a height of 42. This just seemed about right. The front of the shelves have 1/4" strips fastened with glue to keep things from sliding off. This also adds a little stability to prevent sagging. (Maybe strips on the back of the shelves would be appropriate for the same reasons.) The shelves are screwed & glued to their support cleats on the ends. Those cleats are in turn dry screwed to the end support plywood which makes the shelf height relatively easy to adjust. This seemed to be preferable over shelf pins. I thought the shelves may inadvertantly be used as a handle to push it around and might tumble the shelves over if mere gravity was the only thing holding them in place.

A view with one end support removed:









You could make something like this as plain or fancy as you wish. That's the fun thing about having your own workshop. I hope you enjoy this and it gives you ideas for your shop. All comments and/or constructive criticism is welcome.


----------



## Woodbutcher3

rance said:


> *Rolling Tool Cart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the inspiration for this from Workbench Magazine . I deliberately did not look at their drawings for dimensions or scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cart looked like a good design. As with many projects, it is infinitely easier to customize an existing design rather than come up with all original ideas. How many times do we stand on the shoulders of giants that have gone before us?
> 
> The inner structure:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I replaced the pegboard on theirs with 1/2" plywood thinking I would simply screw tool holders and such to the plywood. Then I though French Cleats might be better. This led me to thinking about the use of the cart. I could roll it around the shop, gathering up tools and such for a project. Then roll it over to my work area and create all the sawdust one would want. After that project was complete, then I could reconfigure it for another project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thinking above sorta requires you 'buy into' the Whole-Shop French-Cleat mindset. It would make changes infinitely easier down the road.
> 
> I also wanted to add some clamp storage to the cart. By replacing their inner ply panel with two, then I could put clamps in that slot. Keep in mind this is not meant for "all the clamps in your shop", just the ones for a particular job. Or maybe a subset would always reside in this cart. Being the frugal person I am. I then changed those two inner panels to just plywood strips. These are more easilly obtained from my favorite sport "Dumpster Diving".  Same rule applies to scraps you may have lying around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Economy of lumber:
> Plywood ends are 1/2.
> Plywood bottom and shelves are 3/4.
> All solid wood is sized to be easilly ripped from 2×4 scraps.
> 
> I designed mine as 18×36 at a height of 42. This just seemed about right. The front of the shelves have 1/4" strips fastened with glue to keep things from sliding off. This also adds a little stability to prevent sagging. (Maybe strips on the back of the shelves would be appropriate for the same reasons.) The shelves are screwed & glued to their support cleats on the ends. Those cleats are in turn dry screwed to the end support plywood which makes the shelf height relatively easy to adjust. This seemed to be preferable over shelf pins. I thought the shelves may inadvertantly be used as a handle to push it around and might tumble the shelves over if mere gravity was the only thing holding them in place.
> 
> A view with one end support removed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could make something like this as plain or fancy as you wish. That's the fun thing about having your own workshop. I hope you enjoy this and it gives you ideas for your shop. All comments and/or constructive criticism is welcome.


Nice - you are a whiz with that SU.


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *Rolling Tool Cart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the inspiration for this from Workbench Magazine . I deliberately did not look at their drawings for dimensions or scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cart looked like a good design. As with many projects, it is infinitely easier to customize an existing design rather than come up with all original ideas. How many times do we stand on the shoulders of giants that have gone before us?
> 
> The inner structure:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I replaced the pegboard on theirs with 1/2" plywood thinking I would simply screw tool holders and such to the plywood. Then I though French Cleats might be better. This led me to thinking about the use of the cart. I could roll it around the shop, gathering up tools and such for a project. Then roll it over to my work area and create all the sawdust one would want. After that project was complete, then I could reconfigure it for another project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thinking above sorta requires you 'buy into' the Whole-Shop French-Cleat mindset. It would make changes infinitely easier down the road.
> 
> I also wanted to add some clamp storage to the cart. By replacing their inner ply panel with two, then I could put clamps in that slot. Keep in mind this is not meant for "all the clamps in your shop", just the ones for a particular job. Or maybe a subset would always reside in this cart. Being the frugal person I am. I then changed those two inner panels to just plywood strips. These are more easilly obtained from my favorite sport "Dumpster Diving".  Same rule applies to scraps you may have lying around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Economy of lumber:
> Plywood ends are 1/2.
> Plywood bottom and shelves are 3/4.
> All solid wood is sized to be easilly ripped from 2×4 scraps.
> 
> I designed mine as 18×36 at a height of 42. This just seemed about right. The front of the shelves have 1/4" strips fastened with glue to keep things from sliding off. This also adds a little stability to prevent sagging. (Maybe strips on the back of the shelves would be appropriate for the same reasons.) The shelves are screwed & glued to their support cleats on the ends. Those cleats are in turn dry screwed to the end support plywood which makes the shelf height relatively easy to adjust. This seemed to be preferable over shelf pins. I thought the shelves may inadvertantly be used as a handle to push it around and might tumble the shelves over if mere gravity was the only thing holding them in place.
> 
> A view with one end support removed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could make something like this as plain or fancy as you wish. That's the fun thing about having your own workshop. I hope you enjoy this and it gives you ideas for your shop. All comments and/or constructive criticism is welcome.


Thanks Rod, but no whizzing in my shop.

A friend of mine(Mickey) suggested it would be best if it's low enough to roll underneath bench/countertop. I tend to agree with him. Holes could also be drilled in the top shelf for a set of screwdrivers. And as I usually do on a cart like this, an outlet strip ALWAYS comes in handy.

Suggested contents:

Gluing: Yellah, Gorilla, Epoxy, CA(Three-Bears style… Thin, Med., Thick), Paper towel roll, squirt bottle of water, acid brushes, toothbrushes.
Tape: Painter's tape, Masking tape, Duct tape, Electrical tape.
Screws: Several sizes of Sheetrock screws, Kreg Screws.
Clamps: Bar clamps, spring clamps, Rubber bands.


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *Rolling Tool Cart*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the inspiration for this from Workbench Magazine . I deliberately did not look at their drawings for dimensions or scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cart looked like a good design. As with many projects, it is infinitely easier to customize an existing design rather than come up with all original ideas. How many times do we stand on the shoulders of giants that have gone before us?
> 
> The inner structure:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I replaced the pegboard on theirs with 1/2" plywood thinking I would simply screw tool holders and such to the plywood. Then I though French Cleats might be better. This led me to thinking about the use of the cart. I could roll it around the shop, gathering up tools and such for a project. Then roll it over to my work area and create all the sawdust one would want. After that project was complete, then I could reconfigure it for another project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thinking above sorta requires you 'buy into' the Whole-Shop French-Cleat mindset. It would make changes infinitely easier down the road.
> 
> I also wanted to add some clamp storage to the cart. By replacing their inner ply panel with two, then I could put clamps in that slot. Keep in mind this is not meant for "all the clamps in your shop", just the ones for a particular job. Or maybe a subset would always reside in this cart. Being the frugal person I am. I then changed those two inner panels to just plywood strips. These are more easilly obtained from my favorite sport "Dumpster Diving".  Same rule applies to scraps you may have lying around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Economy of lumber:
> Plywood ends are 1/2.
> Plywood bottom and shelves are 3/4.
> All solid wood is sized to be easilly ripped from 2×4 scraps.
> 
> I designed mine as 18×36 at a height of 42. This just seemed about right. The front of the shelves have 1/4" strips fastened with glue to keep things from sliding off. This also adds a little stability to prevent sagging. (Maybe strips on the back of the shelves would be appropriate for the same reasons.) The shelves are screwed & glued to their support cleats on the ends. Those cleats are in turn dry screwed to the end support plywood which makes the shelf height relatively easy to adjust. This seemed to be preferable over shelf pins. I thought the shelves may inadvertantly be used as a handle to push it around and might tumble the shelves over if mere gravity was the only thing holding them in place.
> 
> A view with one end support removed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could make something like this as plain or fancy as you wish. That's the fun thing about having your own workshop. I hope you enjoy this and it gives you ideas for your shop. All comments and/or constructive criticism is welcome.


Here's an updated version with a change of wood colors and a few items on the shelf.


----------



## rance

*File Size (WATCH OUT!)*

So many times I see a great SU drawing, but the author totally ignored the idea of file size economy. What am I talking about here? If you plan on sharing your file with someone else, it might be beneficial to both parties to stay cognizant of the size of the file you are creating.

Even though I am getting to the point in SU where it no longer impeeds my progress, I still watch SU tutorials from time to time. Just a few months ago, I came across one that went into a some detail about file size consideration. Unfortunately, for the life of me I cannot recall where I saw it and did not save the link. If you know of that(or another) tutorial that talks about file bloat, I would appreciate you sharing that link so I could review it for myself and pass it on to others.

When building objects, I make every separate piece of wood, a component. Why not a group? Well, when you copy a Group, you are copying each and every line and face that makes up that object. When you copy a component, you are essentially only copying a link to the definition of the object rather than a full copy of that object. The definition is stored in your SU file only once and each copy of that Component points back to the definition to understand how it is built. That 'pointer' takes up a whole lot smaller space than the actual definition does.

Another aspect of SU that often contributes to file bloat is curves. Curves are really only a series of straight lines. The default for drawing circles is to make them up with a series of 24 straight lines. You have the option to change that though. When you select the Circle tool, look at the lower right corner of your SU window. See the 24? You can just type 12 and press the Enter key. You have now changed the definition of a circle to only take up 12 line segments rather than the default of 24. Yes, you loose a little bit of resolution and 'realism', but how 'real' does a hidden hole really need to be in a drawing? Not often in most cases. Take the case below where we draw a caster. The one on the left takes 77kb to draw, whereas the one on the right reduces that to only 33kb:










Once you zoom out to see the whole project, you'll likely not even notice the resolution difference. To compound that, imagine a Sphere. By default, it is made up of many faces. 288 to be exact. By changing your default circle to just half(12), you reduce the number of faces to a mere 72:










I'm not suggesting that you ALWAYS reduce the resolution, but you can certainly reduce it when it is not needed. After all, the purpose for most of us woodworkers in using SU is to 1) get an idea of an object's shape and dimensional ratios before we go cutting up possibly expensive lumber, and 2) to have the drawing tell US what the exact dimension of a piece is that we've designed.

And as mentioned earlier, using Components rather than Groups, you can further reduce your file sizes. I hope this is helpful to some of you.


----------



## ptweedy

rance said:


> *File Size (WATCH OUT!)*
> 
> So many times I see a great SU drawing, but the author totally ignored the idea of file size economy. What am I talking about here? If you plan on sharing your file with someone else, it might be beneficial to both parties to stay cognizant of the size of the file you are creating.
> 
> Even though I am getting to the point in SU where it no longer impeeds my progress, I still watch SU tutorials from time to time. Just a few months ago, I came across one that went into a some detail about file size consideration. Unfortunately, for the life of me I cannot recall where I saw it and did not save the link. If you know of that(or another) tutorial that talks about file bloat, I would appreciate you sharing that link so I could review it for myself and pass it on to others.
> 
> When building objects, I make every separate piece of wood, a component. Why not a group? Well, when you copy a Group, you are copying each and every line and face that makes up that object. When you copy a component, you are essentially only copying a link to the definition of the object rather than a full copy of that object. The definition is stored in your SU file only once and each copy of that Component points back to the definition to understand how it is built. That 'pointer' takes up a whole lot smaller space than the actual definition does.
> 
> Another aspect of SU that often contributes to file bloat is curves. Curves are really only a series of straight lines. The default for drawing circles is to make them up with a series of 24 straight lines. You have the option to change that though. When you select the Circle tool, look at the lower right corner of your SU window. See the 24? You can just type 12 and press the Enter key. You have now changed the definition of a circle to only take up 12 line segments rather than the default of 24. Yes, you loose a little bit of resolution and 'realism', but how 'real' does a hidden hole really need to be in a drawing? Not often in most cases. Take the case below where we draw a caster. The one on the left takes 77kb to draw, whereas the one on the right reduces that to only 33kb:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you zoom out to see the whole project, you'll likely not even notice the resolution difference. To compound that, imagine a Sphere. By default, it is made up of many faces. 288 to be exact. By changing your default circle to just half(12), you reduce the number of faces to a mere 72:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not suggesting that you ALWAYS reduce the resolution, but you can certainly reduce it when it is not needed. After all, the purpose for most of us woodworkers in using SU is to 1) get an idea of an object's shape and dimensional ratios before we go cutting up possibly expensive lumber, and 2) to have the drawing tell US what the exact dimension of a piece is that we've designed.
> 
> And as mentioned earlier, using Components rather than Groups, you can further reduce your file sizes. I hope this is helpful to some of you.


excellent blog on su. why dont we have a on going thread on su. The length was just right. thank you,,,, phil [email protected]


----------



## Brad_Nailor

rance said:


> *File Size (WATCH OUT!)*
> 
> So many times I see a great SU drawing, but the author totally ignored the idea of file size economy. What am I talking about here? If you plan on sharing your file with someone else, it might be beneficial to both parties to stay cognizant of the size of the file you are creating.
> 
> Even though I am getting to the point in SU where it no longer impeeds my progress, I still watch SU tutorials from time to time. Just a few months ago, I came across one that went into a some detail about file size consideration. Unfortunately, for the life of me I cannot recall where I saw it and did not save the link. If you know of that(or another) tutorial that talks about file bloat, I would appreciate you sharing that link so I could review it for myself and pass it on to others.
> 
> When building objects, I make every separate piece of wood, a component. Why not a group? Well, when you copy a Group, you are copying each and every line and face that makes up that object. When you copy a component, you are essentially only copying a link to the definition of the object rather than a full copy of that object. The definition is stored in your SU file only once and each copy of that Component points back to the definition to understand how it is built. That 'pointer' takes up a whole lot smaller space than the actual definition does.
> 
> Another aspect of SU that often contributes to file bloat is curves. Curves are really only a series of straight lines. The default for drawing circles is to make them up with a series of 24 straight lines. You have the option to change that though. When you select the Circle tool, look at the lower right corner of your SU window. See the 24? You can just type 12 and press the Enter key. You have now changed the definition of a circle to only take up 12 line segments rather than the default of 24. Yes, you loose a little bit of resolution and 'realism', but how 'real' does a hidden hole really need to be in a drawing? Not often in most cases. Take the case below where we draw a caster. The one on the left takes 77kb to draw, whereas the one on the right reduces that to only 33kb:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you zoom out to see the whole project, you'll likely not even notice the resolution difference. To compound that, imagine a Sphere. By default, it is made up of many faces. 288 to be exact. By changing your default circle to just half(12), you reduce the number of faces to a mere 72:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not suggesting that you ALWAYS reduce the resolution, but you can certainly reduce it when it is not needed. After all, the purpose for most of us woodworkers in using SU is to 1) get an idea of an object's shape and dimensional ratios before we go cutting up possibly expensive lumber, and 2) to have the drawing tell US what the exact dimension of a piece is that we've designed.
> 
> And as mentioned earlier, using Components rather than Groups, you can further reduce your file sizes. I hope this is helpful to some of you.


I like to use groups and components more for the ability to control interaction between geometry, to keep parts separate, ease of drawing and manipulating elements…but I guess the file size reduction is a nice benefit. This is similar to blocks in the AutoCAD world. Also with components (and blocks) you can get global updates….you make a change to the component and all like components reflect that change.


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *File Size (WATCH OUT!)*
> 
> So many times I see a great SU drawing, but the author totally ignored the idea of file size economy. What am I talking about here? If you plan on sharing your file with someone else, it might be beneficial to both parties to stay cognizant of the size of the file you are creating.
> 
> Even though I am getting to the point in SU where it no longer impeeds my progress, I still watch SU tutorials from time to time. Just a few months ago, I came across one that went into a some detail about file size consideration. Unfortunately, for the life of me I cannot recall where I saw it and did not save the link. If you know of that(or another) tutorial that talks about file bloat, I would appreciate you sharing that link so I could review it for myself and pass it on to others.
> 
> When building objects, I make every separate piece of wood, a component. Why not a group? Well, when you copy a Group, you are copying each and every line and face that makes up that object. When you copy a component, you are essentially only copying a link to the definition of the object rather than a full copy of that object. The definition is stored in your SU file only once and each copy of that Component points back to the definition to understand how it is built. That 'pointer' takes up a whole lot smaller space than the actual definition does.
> 
> Another aspect of SU that often contributes to file bloat is curves. Curves are really only a series of straight lines. The default for drawing circles is to make them up with a series of 24 straight lines. You have the option to change that though. When you select the Circle tool, look at the lower right corner of your SU window. See the 24? You can just type 12 and press the Enter key. You have now changed the definition of a circle to only take up 12 line segments rather than the default of 24. Yes, you loose a little bit of resolution and 'realism', but how 'real' does a hidden hole really need to be in a drawing? Not often in most cases. Take the case below where we draw a caster. The one on the left takes 77kb to draw, whereas the one on the right reduces that to only 33kb:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you zoom out to see the whole project, you'll likely not even notice the resolution difference. To compound that, imagine a Sphere. By default, it is made up of many faces. 288 to be exact. By changing your default circle to just half(12), you reduce the number of faces to a mere 72:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not suggesting that you ALWAYS reduce the resolution, but you can certainly reduce it when it is not needed. After all, the purpose for most of us woodworkers in using SU is to 1) get an idea of an object's shape and dimensional ratios before we go cutting up possibly expensive lumber, and 2) to have the drawing tell US what the exact dimension of a piece is that we've designed.
> 
> And as mentioned earlier, using Components rather than Groups, you can further reduce your file sizes. I hope this is helpful to some of you.


Thank you Phil. DaveR used to post on here with a lot of SU stuff but he's concentrating his efforts elsewhere. When folks ask SU questions, there are still several folks here to answer. Do you have any particular areas of SU that you'd like to see discussed?

I agree David. Like parts on a machine that all move together should be 'stuck' together so they move as a cohesive unit. I'm trying to learn to use BobCad for my CNC work. I realize SU has some scripts that can export but BobCad(or TurboCad) seems to be a better fit for that kind of work. But for woodworking(and for free), SU does a pretty good job.


----------



## EvilNuff

rance said:


> *File Size (WATCH OUT!)*
> 
> So many times I see a great SU drawing, but the author totally ignored the idea of file size economy. What am I talking about here? If you plan on sharing your file with someone else, it might be beneficial to both parties to stay cognizant of the size of the file you are creating.
> 
> Even though I am getting to the point in SU where it no longer impeeds my progress, I still watch SU tutorials from time to time. Just a few months ago, I came across one that went into a some detail about file size consideration. Unfortunately, for the life of me I cannot recall where I saw it and did not save the link. If you know of that(or another) tutorial that talks about file bloat, I would appreciate you sharing that link so I could review it for myself and pass it on to others.
> 
> When building objects, I make every separate piece of wood, a component. Why not a group? Well, when you copy a Group, you are copying each and every line and face that makes up that object. When you copy a component, you are essentially only copying a link to the definition of the object rather than a full copy of that object. The definition is stored in your SU file only once and each copy of that Component points back to the definition to understand how it is built. That 'pointer' takes up a whole lot smaller space than the actual definition does.
> 
> Another aspect of SU that often contributes to file bloat is curves. Curves are really only a series of straight lines. The default for drawing circles is to make them up with a series of 24 straight lines. You have the option to change that though. When you select the Circle tool, look at the lower right corner of your SU window. See the 24? You can just type 12 and press the Enter key. You have now changed the definition of a circle to only take up 12 line segments rather than the default of 24. Yes, you loose a little bit of resolution and 'realism', but how 'real' does a hidden hole really need to be in a drawing? Not often in most cases. Take the case below where we draw a caster. The one on the left takes 77kb to draw, whereas the one on the right reduces that to only 33kb:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you zoom out to see the whole project, you'll likely not even notice the resolution difference. To compound that, imagine a Sphere. By default, it is made up of many faces. 288 to be exact. By changing your default circle to just half(12), you reduce the number of faces to a mere 72:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not suggesting that you ALWAYS reduce the resolution, but you can certainly reduce it when it is not needed. After all, the purpose for most of us woodworkers in using SU is to 1) get an idea of an object's shape and dimensional ratios before we go cutting up possibly expensive lumber, and 2) to have the drawing tell US what the exact dimension of a piece is that we've designed.
> 
> And as mentioned earlier, using Components rather than Groups, you can further reduce your file sizes. I hope this is helpful to some of you.


Those are some good tips but I find myself asking…are they really needed? Even a pretty detailed sketchup model doesnt get over a few meg and really even if a file ran 100meg that's not significant these days. To me its just easier to make the components the way I want them as opposed to worrying about the size.


----------



## smitty22

rance said:


> *File Size (WATCH OUT!)*
> 
> So many times I see a great SU drawing, but the author totally ignored the idea of file size economy. What am I talking about here? If you plan on sharing your file with someone else, it might be beneficial to both parties to stay cognizant of the size of the file you are creating.
> 
> Even though I am getting to the point in SU where it no longer impeeds my progress, I still watch SU tutorials from time to time. Just a few months ago, I came across one that went into a some detail about file size consideration. Unfortunately, for the life of me I cannot recall where I saw it and did not save the link. If you know of that(or another) tutorial that talks about file bloat, I would appreciate you sharing that link so I could review it for myself and pass it on to others.
> 
> When building objects, I make every separate piece of wood, a component. Why not a group? Well, when you copy a Group, you are copying each and every line and face that makes up that object. When you copy a component, you are essentially only copying a link to the definition of the object rather than a full copy of that object. The definition is stored in your SU file only once and each copy of that Component points back to the definition to understand how it is built. That 'pointer' takes up a whole lot smaller space than the actual definition does.
> 
> Another aspect of SU that often contributes to file bloat is curves. Curves are really only a series of straight lines. The default for drawing circles is to make them up with a series of 24 straight lines. You have the option to change that though. When you select the Circle tool, look at the lower right corner of your SU window. See the 24? You can just type 12 and press the Enter key. You have now changed the definition of a circle to only take up 12 line segments rather than the default of 24. Yes, you loose a little bit of resolution and 'realism', but how 'real' does a hidden hole really need to be in a drawing? Not often in most cases. Take the case below where we draw a caster. The one on the left takes 77kb to draw, whereas the one on the right reduces that to only 33kb:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you zoom out to see the whole project, you'll likely not even notice the resolution difference. To compound that, imagine a Sphere. By default, it is made up of many faces. 288 to be exact. By changing your default circle to just half(12), you reduce the number of faces to a mere 72:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not suggesting that you ALWAYS reduce the resolution, but you can certainly reduce it when it is not needed. After all, the purpose for most of us woodworkers in using SU is to 1) get an idea of an object's shape and dimensional ratios before we go cutting up possibly expensive lumber, and 2) to have the drawing tell US what the exact dimension of a piece is that we've designed.
> 
> And as mentioned earlier, using Components rather than Groups, you can further reduce your file sizes. I hope this is helpful to some of you.


Thanks for the tips! I will confirm that a SU model can get bloated pretty fast as the project grows. As an example, and although it's way out of the realm of woodworking, I've modeled an entire 30 acre 25, 50, 100, and 200-yard shooting range with lot's of construction details and groups, file size was above 24MB, but with some judicious use of these tips and and the 'purge unused' function under the model info window, reduced it to under 5MB.


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *File Size (WATCH OUT!)*
> 
> So many times I see a great SU drawing, but the author totally ignored the idea of file size economy. What am I talking about here? If you plan on sharing your file with someone else, it might be beneficial to both parties to stay cognizant of the size of the file you are creating.
> 
> Even though I am getting to the point in SU where it no longer impeeds my progress, I still watch SU tutorials from time to time. Just a few months ago, I came across one that went into a some detail about file size consideration. Unfortunately, for the life of me I cannot recall where I saw it and did not save the link. If you know of that(or another) tutorial that talks about file bloat, I would appreciate you sharing that link so I could review it for myself and pass it on to others.
> 
> When building objects, I make every separate piece of wood, a component. Why not a group? Well, when you copy a Group, you are copying each and every line and face that makes up that object. When you copy a component, you are essentially only copying a link to the definition of the object rather than a full copy of that object. The definition is stored in your SU file only once and each copy of that Component points back to the definition to understand how it is built. That 'pointer' takes up a whole lot smaller space than the actual definition does.
> 
> Another aspect of SU that often contributes to file bloat is curves. Curves are really only a series of straight lines. The default for drawing circles is to make them up with a series of 24 straight lines. You have the option to change that though. When you select the Circle tool, look at the lower right corner of your SU window. See the 24? You can just type 12 and press the Enter key. You have now changed the definition of a circle to only take up 12 line segments rather than the default of 24. Yes, you loose a little bit of resolution and 'realism', but how 'real' does a hidden hole really need to be in a drawing? Not often in most cases. Take the case below where we draw a caster. The one on the left takes 77kb to draw, whereas the one on the right reduces that to only 33kb:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you zoom out to see the whole project, you'll likely not even notice the resolution difference. To compound that, imagine a Sphere. By default, it is made up of many faces. 288 to be exact. By changing your default circle to just half(12), you reduce the number of faces to a mere 72:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not suggesting that you ALWAYS reduce the resolution, but you can certainly reduce it when it is not needed. After all, the purpose for most of us woodworkers in using SU is to 1) get an idea of an object's shape and dimensional ratios before we go cutting up possibly expensive lumber, and 2) to have the drawing tell US what the exact dimension of a piece is that we've designed.
> 
> And as mentioned earlier, using Components rather than Groups, you can further reduce your file sizes. I hope this is helpful to some of you.


Evil, Yes, computers have grown to meet some of the older challenges. Storage is only one reason to keep the file size down. As files grow in size, it also affects the speed at which you can orbit an object or move parts around. Folks with bleeding-edge computers may not notice these affects but I'm guessing that the woodworking community rarely has that fast of a computer.

Smitty, I'll have to look into 'purge unused'. There are still so many things in SU that I have yet to explore. One thing I've found is if I open a model, select everything(Ctrl-A), and copy it to the clipboard. Then create a brand new file(File/New), and paste in place' the contents of the clipboard and save this new model. The extraneous stuff is eliminated. This may in fact have the same effect as 'purge unused'. Hey, we're BOTH learning here. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Tootles

rance said:


> *File Size (WATCH OUT!)*
> 
> So many times I see a great SU drawing, but the author totally ignored the idea of file size economy. What am I talking about here? If you plan on sharing your file with someone else, it might be beneficial to both parties to stay cognizant of the size of the file you are creating.
> 
> Even though I am getting to the point in SU where it no longer impeeds my progress, I still watch SU tutorials from time to time. Just a few months ago, I came across one that went into a some detail about file size consideration. Unfortunately, for the life of me I cannot recall where I saw it and did not save the link. If you know of that(or another) tutorial that talks about file bloat, I would appreciate you sharing that link so I could review it for myself and pass it on to others.
> 
> When building objects, I make every separate piece of wood, a component. Why not a group? Well, when you copy a Group, you are copying each and every line and face that makes up that object. When you copy a component, you are essentially only copying a link to the definition of the object rather than a full copy of that object. The definition is stored in your SU file only once and each copy of that Component points back to the definition to understand how it is built. That 'pointer' takes up a whole lot smaller space than the actual definition does.
> 
> Another aspect of SU that often contributes to file bloat is curves. Curves are really only a series of straight lines. The default for drawing circles is to make them up with a series of 24 straight lines. You have the option to change that though. When you select the Circle tool, look at the lower right corner of your SU window. See the 24? You can just type 12 and press the Enter key. You have now changed the definition of a circle to only take up 12 line segments rather than the default of 24. Yes, you loose a little bit of resolution and 'realism', but how 'real' does a hidden hole really need to be in a drawing? Not often in most cases. Take the case below where we draw a caster. The one on the left takes 77kb to draw, whereas the one on the right reduces that to only 33kb:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once you zoom out to see the whole project, you'll likely not even notice the resolution difference. To compound that, imagine a Sphere. By default, it is made up of many faces. 288 to be exact. By changing your default circle to just half(12), you reduce the number of faces to a mere 72:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not suggesting that you ALWAYS reduce the resolution, but you can certainly reduce it when it is not needed. After all, the purpose for most of us woodworkers in using SU is to 1) get an idea of an object's shape and dimensional ratios before we go cutting up possibly expensive lumber, and 2) to have the drawing tell US what the exact dimension of a piece is that we've designed.
> 
> And as mentioned earlier, using Components rather than Groups, you can further reduce your file sizes. I hope this is helpful to some of you.


Rance

Thanks for this blog. A few days ago I was trying to solve a problem using the intersection of two circles where the standard 24 segments per circle was simply not accurate enough. If I'd known then how to increase the number of segments, I would have been able to get a much better result.


----------



## rance

*Rolling Wood Storage Rack*

I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:










It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.

It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2×4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.










In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.










By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.










The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.










I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.










You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.










As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.










Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.










Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!


----------



## MikeGager

rance said:


> *Rolling Wood Storage Rack*
> 
> I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.
> 
> It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2×4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!


looks pretty good. my only suggestion would be to go with the largest casters possible. i made a similar cart using 5" casters and it can be a bear getting it rolling, id imagine the weight of your cart would be somewhat more then the one i built fully loaded.


----------



## Woodbutcher3

rance said:


> *Rolling Wood Storage Rack*
> 
> I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.
> 
> It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2×4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!


@ Mike - the red wheel casters Woodcraft sells work pretty well - I think they're 6"

@Rance - cut the center shelves in half so you don't have to pull te whole shelf out ~ especially if it's loaded with wood or some other project.

You putting up any measurements or angles??


----------



## HokieMojo

rance said:


> *Rolling Wood Storage Rack*
> 
> I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.
> 
> It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2×4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!


Just a couple thoughts from someone that had one of these. 
1) they get very heavy. Just like I can still push a car in neutral, you can still push one of these carts when fully loaded, but mine was approaching 1500 lbs at one point. It isn't easy. Don't let this stop you though as long as you don't expect to push it with one finger.
2) If you use casters, go with polyurethane. Rubber ones will quickly develop flat spots. Poly is pretty good at resisting this.
3) get the biggest wheels you can. It makes moving items much easier.
4) reconsider the 6 wheel design. I get that you want to distribute the weight, but when you go with 6, the wheels often cause each other to jam up. They all inevitably end up pointed in a different direction. Your experience might be different, but this has been mine.
5) Be prepared for how much space this will take up. Even if you know it in your head, it can sometimes look different in reality. That was the case with mine.

I'm sure you've already thought of most of this. I just wanted to put it out there in case. Excellent sketchup work and I'm looking forward to seeing the build!


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *Rolling Wood Storage Rack*
> 
> I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.
> 
> It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2×4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!


I understand the concern with smaller casters, and the type too. On this drawing, I used 5" casters. If/when I get around to building this I'll put more thought into specific caster selection. As for the weight, after considering what this really would be used for, I'm thinking of reducing it to five A-Frames instead of six. Not a lot of weight reduction, but it might be less of an overbuild. This would bring them from about 19" up to about 24" on center.

Rod, good idea on the half-shelves. The footprint as well as the top shelf are 4'x8', and all angles are 10 degrees. I'm considering narrowing the top platform just a bit though.

All good points Hokie. In addition, the particular type of floor this would be used on should be taken into account, even to the point of how level it is. I'm already thinking of reducing the overall size to 42"x72". Never ending changes huh?

Thank you all for sharing your input.


----------



## JL7

rance said:


> *Rolling Wood Storage Rack*
> 
> I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.
> 
> It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2×4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!


This is really a nice design - too big for my little shop but I like it. One thought, to maximize the space utilization, you could devote one of the lower shelves for shorts, stored perpendicular to the length of the cart which utilizes that hard to reach center section. Of course, not everybody saves as many shorts as I do….....or do they??

Your Sketchup skills are impressive!

Jeff


----------



## ajosephg

rance said:


> *Rolling Wood Storage Rack*
> 
> I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.
> 
> It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2×4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!


As others have mentioned, weight may be a problem.

I built a similar cart but with less capacity in that I don't have the top shelf. I've got it fully loaded, and can barely get it to start moving. Admittedly I'm not that strong in my old age, but if it's tight against the wall it's tough to get it rolling because I have no place to brace my body. Once it starts moving no problem.

Mine has four 6 inch polyurethane swivel casters. I think Hokiemojo is right on about not using six casters. Even with just four, one of the problems in getting it moving is that the casters must usually swivel to get moving after being parked. For example my parked position is in a corner of the shop. When rolled into the corner at least two of the casters will have to rotate 180 degrees to back out of the parking place.

I used four 2×4's on edge to make the bottom frame, which provides enough strength to prevent bending, therefore, only 4 casters are needed. In addition, consider that the weight of the heaviest lumber (sheet goods on edge) load is going to be distributed along the length of the cart, so that in itself won't cause bending if you get my drift.


----------



## chodgson

rance said:


> *Rolling Wood Storage Rack*
> 
> I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.
> 
> It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2×4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!


Funny enough, I just built something very similar to this, to get all the wood currently stored all over my garage out into the shed and better organized. Mine was 4' tall, 6' long, and 3' wide at the base, Instead of the A-Frame, I went with straight-vertical supports, with no shelves on one side for all plywood storage - so kinda it would look kinda like an "HF" on the end, if the right side of the H and left side of the F were a single post.

There were 3 shelf levels (2 feet deep each, 1' on the outside, 1' between the supports) plus the 3' feet on the bottom. I stood my 2-by-4 shelf supports on end, and mortised them fully into the side of the uprights, which should have significantly more weight capacity than this design, but sacrificing some vertical space on each "shelf". I also put a cross-brace (2 2-by-4s in an "X" with an angled half-lap in the middle) across the "flat" (no shelves) plywood side to prevent racking.

With the measurements all 2'/3'/4'/6', I was able to make the whole thing out of a dozen 2×4s with no waste (well, the odd-length ends of the angled cross-braces were extra). While my shed is quite large (10'x12') I had no illusions of being able to roll this thing around on the exposed-aggregate concrete floor, so it just sits flat on the feet. So far I'm pretty happy with it.


----------



## TheSniper

rance said:


> *Rolling Wood Storage Rack*
> 
> I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.
> 
> It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2×4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!


I just built one based on your sketchup design (thanks) to replace a metal one I had. it can be seen here.
http://www.hyperlinks.net/lumber-rack-rolling/
Thanks for the Info Rance!
-Sam


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *Rolling Wood Storage Rack*
> 
> I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.
> 
> It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2×4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!


Sam,

I would love to see your build. Unfortunately the link you posted is broken.

Funny thing is I found this on Pintrest and thought "Hmmm, that looks familiar".

Rance

Edit: Well, a little speelunking and I found it here: http://www.hyperlinks.net/index.php/lumber-rack-rolling/

Don't know why but its kinda funny to see your project built by someone else.


----------



## TheSniper

rance said:


> *Rolling Wood Storage Rack*
> 
> I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.
> 
> It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2×4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!


Rance, 
First, THANKS! for the inspiration. 2nd Thanks again for alerting me to the broken link. (its working correctly now)
My Hosting svc some how changed all my permalinks ?1#. ut now their all back to working order. so the first link is now working. but not the second. Also. now that I have had the rack for some time. and I pretty much filled it up straight away. no room left on it! It is really quite heavy. So for those of you endeavoring such a build? REALLY dont skimp on the wheels. "REALLY".. I did not I in fact put 6 wheels on my rack. and spaced the 2 middle wheels so they kind of act like a teeter~totter of sorts. but even then its quite heavy to get rolling. Did you ever build yours?
-Sam


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *Rolling Wood Storage Rack*
> 
> I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.
> 
> It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2×4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!


Sam, I've not built it yet. I've down-sized so I may not ever. Maybe a smaller version. Glad it is working for you. Build on…


----------



## CurtJoy

rance said:


> *Rolling Wood Storage Rack*
> 
> I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.
> 
> It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2×4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!


Rance,

New to LumberJocks, how to I get the sketchup files or detailed design info to build this?

Thanks, Curt


----------



## rance

*3 Legged Workbench*

So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.

How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.

So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench. 









It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.









Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs. 


















I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench. 









Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)









Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better


















This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are. 









I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.

Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.

Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.

.

EDIT:

Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.


----------



## retiredandtired

rance said:


> *3 Legged Workbench*
> 
> So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.
> 
> How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.
> 
> So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.
> 
> Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.
> 
> Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.


I like that table, it would fit my shop just about right. but I still need to get that small thing on top { just to keep my head dry } frist. Yall need to keep the great ideals up.


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *3 Legged Workbench*
> 
> So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.
> 
> How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.
> 
> So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.
> 
> Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.
> 
> Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.


For you David.


----------



## JoeLyddon

rance said:


> *3 Legged Workbench*
> 
> So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.
> 
> How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.
> 
> So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.
> 
> Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.
> 
> Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.


Very interesting…


----------



## SPalm

rance said:


> *3 Legged Workbench*
> 
> So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.
> 
> How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.
> 
> So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.
> 
> Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.
> 
> Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.


Hi Rance,
You're weird. Smart and inventive, but weird none the less.

I can not imagine a 400 pound bench rocking. I would think to believe that they are 'self leveling'. Pure weight is a nice thing for a bench to have.

Those legs look like they need some lower bracing. And the umbrella needs a stand to buttress itself from the wind. But I like exploring the possibilities.

Keep it up,
Steve


----------



## jbertelson

rance said:


> *3 Legged Workbench*
> 
> So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.
> 
> How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.
> 
> So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.
> 
> Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.
> 
> Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.


*Rance*
Here is my blog that contains a link to somewhat more realistic woodworking textures for SU.

Texture Blog

They are self tiling, small file size things. The blog explains how to use them. I think you will enjoy using the textures for your virtual constructions. I use SU to design everything of any complexity. I don't think I have ever made something completely from someone elses plans.

Have a good one…......and I am going to post a teaser blog later today for my minibench, I suspect some of the ideas will amuse you, and you might find a useful idea or to.

The minibench has just a couple finishing touches left, and then will be presented as a project in the next couple of weeks.


----------



## jbertelson

rance said:


> *3 Legged Workbench*
> 
> So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.
> 
> How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.
> 
> So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.
> 
> Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.
> 
> Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.


*Steve*
I think I resemble your remark as well…..........(-:

I will present a teaser of a bench today, that is small, but with all its stuff in it, will approach 400 pounds….....it has 4 legs on levelers…......(-:


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *3 Legged Workbench*
> 
> So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.
> 
> How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.
> 
> So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.
> 
> Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.
> 
> Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.


@Steve. Weird? I take that as a compliment. 

Truth be told, I'm not really in love with the legs and their attachment on the bench above. I like the 3-legged-ness and think it has some merit. It just needs some design work. I put it out there to inspire. I do think that some dangling dingleberries all around the perimeter of the umbrella could serve to dress it up a bit. We'll have to get David's input on that though.

Thanks Jim. Yes, I should use better textures.  That has been a struggle for me with SU. I detest 'plug-ins', and I've tried installing someone else's 'wood selection' a while ago. Every time I used it, it required me to Browse to a folder to find it. It was not worth it. I believe it was the one at http://www.defcon-x.de/wordpress/textures/ but that link has gone stale.

I just installed yours. Flawless, complete, and easy to use. I'll add a couple of comments over there to be more pertinent. Thanks for nudging me Jim, and with putting the library together.

btw, you can Edit your previous comments up to 60 min. after you post.


----------



## SPalm

rance said:


> *3 Legged Workbench*
> 
> So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.
> 
> How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.
> 
> So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.
> 
> Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.
> 
> Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.


btw, did you know that if you Edit your previous comments, the persons subscribed to this post don't see those edits in their emails?

pretty sneeky, but weird none the less.

Steve


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *3 Legged Workbench*
> 
> So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.
> 
> How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.
> 
> So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.
> 
> Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.
> 
> Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.


Didn't know that Steve. I only get emails on the orig. post though. I could play some games with that.

And oh btw, you think I'm weird, what about these saw guys , and then there are the plane guys. Now those folks are REALLY weird.


----------



## jbertelson

rance said:


> *3 Legged Workbench*
> 
> So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.
> 
> How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.
> 
> So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.
> 
> Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.
> 
> Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.


Now we got us weird guys calling other guys weirder….......(-:

Oh well, we enjoy what we do. Never mattered to me if I was weird…...but I don't know if I want someone weider than me, because then it becomes a contest…..............(-:

Have a good one…....the minibench blog is up and running…...........


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *3 Legged Workbench*
> 
> So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.
> 
> How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.
> 
> So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.
> 
> Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.
> 
> Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.


Tom, I've added dimensions for you. Let me know if you need more.

Rance (just ONE of the wierd ones  )


----------



## ChipTom

rance said:


> *3 Legged Workbench*
> 
> So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.
> 
> How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.
> 
> So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.
> 
> Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.
> 
> Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.


Rance, Thanks a bunch. I won't know until I try to put it together if all the measurement that I will need are there but it looks like you covered it well. I've decided to not rush it. I'm going to buy some work tables from Sam's Club and, although they are for inside use, I'll alter the feet and throw grill covers over them. It's a quick solution (sturdy, flat top, can clamp to) for a little over $200 for both. After satisfying current demands I'll make two of your nice bench when the woodworking joy-potential is not encumbered by any pressure. Of course, I'll use outdoor-friendly materials and still throw covers over them when not in use. Want any pics from the endeavor? Thanks again. - Tom

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=145625


----------



## rance

*Corner Splines Without a Tablesaw*

I've seen questions here on LJ asking how to cut accurate splines with weapons other than a table saw. The obvious next choice might be a router. But what if you wanted them thinner than you could get with either of those?

I'm gonna suggest a good hand saw. Some can do them freehand with a hand saw. I'm not that good yet so my choice would be to build a Jig. (Or at least a SU drawing .

First order of business would be *saw selection*. Although some of the larger saws might work, I'm gonna suggest a nice Dovetail Saw. If we are cutting corner splines on a nice mitered box, then we will be ripping. Therefore, we would prefer a saw with a rip tooth configuration. In actuallity, I'll bet a Tennon saw would work pretty well too. The main requirement for the saw would be that it have a spine. You might suggest that it would rule out the Japanese pull saws but I say they could be configured to work. Alls ya godda do is configure a spine for them. That shouldn't be too tough of a task for most folks. I'd say clamp the spine with the smallest of clamps to not increase the weight of the saw too much though.

*On to the jig *(my favorite part). Here's an initial design that I believe would fit the bill for most woodworkers. It is not too difficult to build and should accomodate most any appropriate saw. 









Lets break this down a bit. *The basic jig starts with a corner brace *attached with a butt joint:









Dimensions are not all that critical. Just use what you have available in the shop. Mine happen to be 4" x 8" x 3/4". As with most jigs, I would suggest either MDF or some Baltic Birch plywood.

Next are the *saw blade guides*(Refined):








These are are a glue-up of a 1/2" strip and two 3" triangles. These are glued up separately, lightly planed, then installed. Note the grain direction for maximum strength if using solid wood.

*Attach the Blade Guides*. Draw a perpendicular line on the corner braces and attach the blade guides to the corner braces. You could glue the first one and wait till the glue dries or glue them both at the same time. Either way, you'll use your saw to accomodate for the gap between the two guides:









To accomodate for the set in the teeth on the saw, you can add strips of tape on the blade. What you are after is to have the two saw blade guides perfectly parallel. Use the saw alternataly on both slopes to set the width of the kerf gap. You'll want this snug. If it is too tight after gluing, you'll easilly be able to remove the tape on the saw and saw through to open it up properly.

*Now for the fence*. The fence determines how far from the top/bottom of the box that the saw kerf will be. I just used two 4" x 4" blocks fastened together:









This fence will be held in place with a small C-Clamp when using the jig:








I suppose you could screw it in place as well. Actually, that's probably what I would end up doing.

*Preparing the jig*. First, you must place the saw between the saw guides and saw through the corner pieces that we began with. You can see from underneath where the saw has made its way through:








It wouldn't hurt to put a backer board in there to prevent any tearout. That is important because those corner boards will act as backer boards when you do the sawing on your actual boxes.

Now you can adjust the fence to where your saw kerf will be at the top of your corner spline and clamp or screw it in place. Then place your box in a vise with one corner facing up and place the jig on the box, making sure the fence rests up against your box and make your first cut: 









Repeat this for all four corners. If you intende to have both lower and upper splines, turn the box over and cut those now as well. *Now make a shim *equal to the thickness of your desired corner spline minus the width of your saw kerf. So if your saw kerf is 1/32" and you want a 1/8" spline, then make your shim 3/32" thick. I've shown my shim here as 5" x 5" with the lower corner nipped off to accomodate the box being held in the vise:









Once the second kerf is cut, the waste would be removed using a narrow 1/8" chisel. You can undercut the waste removal to assure that the splines meet both edges when installed.

To accomodate a shallower kerf, simply add shims to the top of the saw blade guides.

This is but one way that this can be accomplished. There are many other ways that could work equally as well. I'm just presenting this one as it would probably be my first choice, given my skill level and available weapons. Feel free to provide any and all comments or constructive criticism.


----------



## JoeLyddon

rance said:


> *Corner Splines Without a Tablesaw*
> 
> I've seen questions here on LJ asking how to cut accurate splines with weapons other than a table saw. The obvious next choice might be a router. But what if you wanted them thinner than you could get with either of those?
> 
> I'm gonna suggest a good hand saw. Some can do them freehand with a hand saw. I'm not that good yet so my choice would be to build a Jig. (Or at least a SU drawing .
> 
> First order of business would be *saw selection*. Although some of the larger saws might work, I'm gonna suggest a nice Dovetail Saw. If we are cutting corner splines on a nice mitered box, then we will be ripping. Therefore, we would prefer a saw with a rip tooth configuration. In actuallity, I'll bet a Tennon saw would work pretty well too. The main requirement for the saw would be that it have a spine. You might suggest that it would rule out the Japanese pull saws but I say they could be configured to work. Alls ya godda do is configure a spine for them. That shouldn't be too tough of a task for most folks. I'd say clamp the spine with the smallest of clamps to not increase the weight of the saw too much though.
> 
> *On to the jig *(my favorite part). Here's an initial design that I believe would fit the bill for most woodworkers. It is not too difficult to build and should accomodate most any appropriate saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets break this down a bit. *The basic jig starts with a corner brace *attached with a butt joint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dimensions are not all that critical. Just use what you have available in the shop. Mine happen to be 4" x 8" x 3/4". As with most jigs, I would suggest either MDF or some Baltic Birch plywood.
> 
> Next are the *saw blade guides*(Refined):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are are a glue-up of a 1/2" strip and two 3" triangles. These are glued up separately, lightly planed, then installed. Note the grain direction for maximum strength if using solid wood.
> 
> *Attach the Blade Guides*. Draw a perpendicular line on the corner braces and attach the blade guides to the corner braces. You could glue the first one and wait till the glue dries or glue them both at the same time. Either way, you'll use your saw to accomodate for the gap between the two guides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To accomodate for the set in the teeth on the saw, you can add strips of tape on the blade. What you are after is to have the two saw blade guides perfectly parallel. Use the saw alternataly on both slopes to set the width of the kerf gap. You'll want this snug. If it is too tight after gluing, you'll easilly be able to remove the tape on the saw and saw through to open it up properly.
> 
> *Now for the fence*. The fence determines how far from the top/bottom of the box that the saw kerf will be. I just used two 4" x 4" blocks fastened together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This fence will be held in place with a small C-Clamp when using the jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose you could screw it in place as well. Actually, that's probably what I would end up doing.
> 
> *Preparing the jig*. First, you must place the saw between the saw guides and saw through the corner pieces that we began with. You can see from underneath where the saw has made its way through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It wouldn't hurt to put a backer board in there to prevent any tearout. That is important because those corner boards will act as backer boards when you do the sawing on your actual boxes.
> 
> Now you can adjust the fence to where your saw kerf will be at the top of your corner spline and clamp or screw it in place. Then place your box in a vise with one corner facing up and place the jig on the box, making sure the fence rests up against your box and make your first cut:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat this for all four corners. If you intende to have both lower and upper splines, turn the box over and cut those now as well. *Now make a shim *equal to the thickness of your desired corner spline minus the width of your saw kerf. So if your saw kerf is 1/32" and you want a 1/8" spline, then make your shim 3/32" thick. I've shown my shim here as 5" x 5" with the lower corner nipped off to accomodate the box being held in the vise:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the second kerf is cut, the waste would be removed using a narrow 1/8" chisel. You can undercut the waste removal to assure that the splines meet both edges when installed.
> 
> To accomodate a shallower kerf, simply add shims to the top of the saw blade guides.
> 
> This is but one way that this can be accomplished. There are many other ways that could work equally as well. I'm just presenting this one as it would probably be my first choice, given my skill level and available weapons. Feel free to provide any and all comments or constructive criticism.


Nice Approach!

Sure beats a Table Saw when all you want to do is a small spline…


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *Corner Splines Without a Tablesaw*
> 
> I've seen questions here on LJ asking how to cut accurate splines with weapons other than a table saw. The obvious next choice might be a router. But what if you wanted them thinner than you could get with either of those?
> 
> I'm gonna suggest a good hand saw. Some can do them freehand with a hand saw. I'm not that good yet so my choice would be to build a Jig. (Or at least a SU drawing .
> 
> First order of business would be *saw selection*. Although some of the larger saws might work, I'm gonna suggest a nice Dovetail Saw. If we are cutting corner splines on a nice mitered box, then we will be ripping. Therefore, we would prefer a saw with a rip tooth configuration. In actuallity, I'll bet a Tennon saw would work pretty well too. The main requirement for the saw would be that it have a spine. You might suggest that it would rule out the Japanese pull saws but I say they could be configured to work. Alls ya godda do is configure a spine for them. That shouldn't be too tough of a task for most folks. I'd say clamp the spine with the smallest of clamps to not increase the weight of the saw too much though.
> 
> *On to the jig *(my favorite part). Here's an initial design that I believe would fit the bill for most woodworkers. It is not too difficult to build and should accomodate most any appropriate saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets break this down a bit. *The basic jig starts with a corner brace *attached with a butt joint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dimensions are not all that critical. Just use what you have available in the shop. Mine happen to be 4" x 8" x 3/4". As with most jigs, I would suggest either MDF or some Baltic Birch plywood.
> 
> Next are the *saw blade guides*(Refined):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are are a glue-up of a 1/2" strip and two 3" triangles. These are glued up separately, lightly planed, then installed. Note the grain direction for maximum strength if using solid wood.
> 
> *Attach the Blade Guides*. Draw a perpendicular line on the corner braces and attach the blade guides to the corner braces. You could glue the first one and wait till the glue dries or glue them both at the same time. Either way, you'll use your saw to accomodate for the gap between the two guides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To accomodate for the set in the teeth on the saw, you can add strips of tape on the blade. What you are after is to have the two saw blade guides perfectly parallel. Use the saw alternataly on both slopes to set the width of the kerf gap. You'll want this snug. If it is too tight after gluing, you'll easilly be able to remove the tape on the saw and saw through to open it up properly.
> 
> *Now for the fence*. The fence determines how far from the top/bottom of the box that the saw kerf will be. I just used two 4" x 4" blocks fastened together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This fence will be held in place with a small C-Clamp when using the jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose you could screw it in place as well. Actually, that's probably what I would end up doing.
> 
> *Preparing the jig*. First, you must place the saw between the saw guides and saw through the corner pieces that we began with. You can see from underneath where the saw has made its way through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It wouldn't hurt to put a backer board in there to prevent any tearout. That is important because those corner boards will act as backer boards when you do the sawing on your actual boxes.
> 
> Now you can adjust the fence to where your saw kerf will be at the top of your corner spline and clamp or screw it in place. Then place your box in a vise with one corner facing up and place the jig on the box, making sure the fence rests up against your box and make your first cut:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat this for all four corners. If you intende to have both lower and upper splines, turn the box over and cut those now as well. *Now make a shim *equal to the thickness of your desired corner spline minus the width of your saw kerf. So if your saw kerf is 1/32" and you want a 1/8" spline, then make your shim 3/32" thick. I've shown my shim here as 5" x 5" with the lower corner nipped off to accomodate the box being held in the vise:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the second kerf is cut, the waste would be removed using a narrow 1/8" chisel. You can undercut the waste removal to assure that the splines meet both edges when installed.
> 
> To accomodate a shallower kerf, simply add shims to the top of the saw blade guides.
> 
> This is but one way that this can be accomplished. There are many other ways that could work equally as well. I'm just presenting this one as it would probably be my first choice, given my skill level and available weapons. Feel free to provide any and all comments or constructive criticism.


Thanks Joe. I have some future applications for thin corner splines and I think this will be just the ticket.

I tried to make the SU file available with a link, but with no success. I also tried uploading it to the 3D warehouse. I kept clicking the "Accept the Terms Of Service", but it acts like I forgot to check a checkbox. I even turned off PopUp blocker, still no go. Hmmmmm?

*Edit*: Note also that I changed the build-up of the Saw Blade Guides to make them easier to build and stronger.


----------



## JoeLyddon

rance said:


> *Corner Splines Without a Tablesaw*
> 
> I've seen questions here on LJ asking how to cut accurate splines with weapons other than a table saw. The obvious next choice might be a router. But what if you wanted them thinner than you could get with either of those?
> 
> I'm gonna suggest a good hand saw. Some can do them freehand with a hand saw. I'm not that good yet so my choice would be to build a Jig. (Or at least a SU drawing .
> 
> First order of business would be *saw selection*. Although some of the larger saws might work, I'm gonna suggest a nice Dovetail Saw. If we are cutting corner splines on a nice mitered box, then we will be ripping. Therefore, we would prefer a saw with a rip tooth configuration. In actuallity, I'll bet a Tennon saw would work pretty well too. The main requirement for the saw would be that it have a spine. You might suggest that it would rule out the Japanese pull saws but I say they could be configured to work. Alls ya godda do is configure a spine for them. That shouldn't be too tough of a task for most folks. I'd say clamp the spine with the smallest of clamps to not increase the weight of the saw too much though.
> 
> *On to the jig *(my favorite part). Here's an initial design that I believe would fit the bill for most woodworkers. It is not too difficult to build and should accomodate most any appropriate saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets break this down a bit. *The basic jig starts with a corner brace *attached with a butt joint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dimensions are not all that critical. Just use what you have available in the shop. Mine happen to be 4" x 8" x 3/4". As with most jigs, I would suggest either MDF or some Baltic Birch plywood.
> 
> Next are the *saw blade guides*(Refined):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are are a glue-up of a 1/2" strip and two 3" triangles. These are glued up separately, lightly planed, then installed. Note the grain direction for maximum strength if using solid wood.
> 
> *Attach the Blade Guides*. Draw a perpendicular line on the corner braces and attach the blade guides to the corner braces. You could glue the first one and wait till the glue dries or glue them both at the same time. Either way, you'll use your saw to accomodate for the gap between the two guides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To accomodate for the set in the teeth on the saw, you can add strips of tape on the blade. What you are after is to have the two saw blade guides perfectly parallel. Use the saw alternataly on both slopes to set the width of the kerf gap. You'll want this snug. If it is too tight after gluing, you'll easilly be able to remove the tape on the saw and saw through to open it up properly.
> 
> *Now for the fence*. The fence determines how far from the top/bottom of the box that the saw kerf will be. I just used two 4" x 4" blocks fastened together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This fence will be held in place with a small C-Clamp when using the jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose you could screw it in place as well. Actually, that's probably what I would end up doing.
> 
> *Preparing the jig*. First, you must place the saw between the saw guides and saw through the corner pieces that we began with. You can see from underneath where the saw has made its way through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It wouldn't hurt to put a backer board in there to prevent any tearout. That is important because those corner boards will act as backer boards when you do the sawing on your actual boxes.
> 
> Now you can adjust the fence to where your saw kerf will be at the top of your corner spline and clamp or screw it in place. Then place your box in a vise with one corner facing up and place the jig on the box, making sure the fence rests up against your box and make your first cut:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat this for all four corners. If you intende to have both lower and upper splines, turn the box over and cut those now as well. *Now make a shim *equal to the thickness of your desired corner spline minus the width of your saw kerf. So if your saw kerf is 1/32" and you want a 1/8" spline, then make your shim 3/32" thick. I've shown my shim here as 5" x 5" with the lower corner nipped off to accomodate the box being held in the vise:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the second kerf is cut, the waste would be removed using a narrow 1/8" chisel. You can undercut the waste removal to assure that the splines meet both edges when installed.
> 
> To accomodate a shallower kerf, simply add shims to the top of the saw blade guides.
> 
> This is but one way that this can be accomplished. There are many other ways that could work equally as well. I'm just presenting this one as it would probably be my first choice, given my skill level and available weapons. Feel free to provide any and all comments or constructive criticism.


I'm running into that type of thing more & more… Junior grade programmers that do not know how to debug anything is my guess… or they think they are SO Perfect that they don't have to test run programs…

If I had seen the kind of stuff I run into on My Watch (back then)... they would've been fired on the spot!

Very frustrating!


----------



## gfadvm

rance said:


> *Corner Splines Without a Tablesaw*
> 
> I've seen questions here on LJ asking how to cut accurate splines with weapons other than a table saw. The obvious next choice might be a router. But what if you wanted them thinner than you could get with either of those?
> 
> I'm gonna suggest a good hand saw. Some can do them freehand with a hand saw. I'm not that good yet so my choice would be to build a Jig. (Or at least a SU drawing .
> 
> First order of business would be *saw selection*. Although some of the larger saws might work, I'm gonna suggest a nice Dovetail Saw. If we are cutting corner splines on a nice mitered box, then we will be ripping. Therefore, we would prefer a saw with a rip tooth configuration. In actuallity, I'll bet a Tennon saw would work pretty well too. The main requirement for the saw would be that it have a spine. You might suggest that it would rule out the Japanese pull saws but I say they could be configured to work. Alls ya godda do is configure a spine for them. That shouldn't be too tough of a task for most folks. I'd say clamp the spine with the smallest of clamps to not increase the weight of the saw too much though.
> 
> *On to the jig *(my favorite part). Here's an initial design that I believe would fit the bill for most woodworkers. It is not too difficult to build and should accomodate most any appropriate saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets break this down a bit. *The basic jig starts with a corner brace *attached with a butt joint:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dimensions are not all that critical. Just use what you have available in the shop. Mine happen to be 4" x 8" x 3/4". As with most jigs, I would suggest either MDF or some Baltic Birch plywood.
> 
> Next are the *saw blade guides*(Refined):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are are a glue-up of a 1/2" strip and two 3" triangles. These are glued up separately, lightly planed, then installed. Note the grain direction for maximum strength if using solid wood.
> 
> *Attach the Blade Guides*. Draw a perpendicular line on the corner braces and attach the blade guides to the corner braces. You could glue the first one and wait till the glue dries or glue them both at the same time. Either way, you'll use your saw to accomodate for the gap between the two guides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To accomodate for the set in the teeth on the saw, you can add strips of tape on the blade. What you are after is to have the two saw blade guides perfectly parallel. Use the saw alternataly on both slopes to set the width of the kerf gap. You'll want this snug. If it is too tight after gluing, you'll easilly be able to remove the tape on the saw and saw through to open it up properly.
> 
> *Now for the fence*. The fence determines how far from the top/bottom of the box that the saw kerf will be. I just used two 4" x 4" blocks fastened together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This fence will be held in place with a small C-Clamp when using the jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose you could screw it in place as well. Actually, that's probably what I would end up doing.
> 
> *Preparing the jig*. First, you must place the saw between the saw guides and saw through the corner pieces that we began with. You can see from underneath where the saw has made its way through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It wouldn't hurt to put a backer board in there to prevent any tearout. That is important because those corner boards will act as backer boards when you do the sawing on your actual boxes.
> 
> Now you can adjust the fence to where your saw kerf will be at the top of your corner spline and clamp or screw it in place. Then place your box in a vise with one corner facing up and place the jig on the box, making sure the fence rests up against your box and make your first cut:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repeat this for all four corners. If you intende to have both lower and upper splines, turn the box over and cut those now as well. *Now make a shim *equal to the thickness of your desired corner spline minus the width of your saw kerf. So if your saw kerf is 1/32" and you want a 1/8" spline, then make your shim 3/32" thick. I've shown my shim here as 5" x 5" with the lower corner nipped off to accomodate the box being held in the vise:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once the second kerf is cut, the waste would be removed using a narrow 1/8" chisel. You can undercut the waste removal to assure that the splines meet both edges when installed.
> 
> To accomodate a shallower kerf, simply add shims to the top of the saw blade guides.
> 
> This is but one way that this can be accomplished. There are many other ways that could work equally as well. I'm just presenting this one as it would probably be my first choice, given my skill level and available weapons. Feel free to provide any and all comments or constructive criticism.


That looks like a lot of work and Im a power tool guy. If I needed really thin splines , I would use a thin kerf [1/16"] 71/2" circular saw blade in my table saw using my existing spline jig and I'd be done before you got your jig built. You could also cut thin splines on a bandsaw or REALLY thin splines on a scrollsaw. Anything to keep from using hand tools. No offense intended to those gluttons for punishment out there who LOVE hand tools.


----------



## rance

*The Inevitible Push Block*










Of all of the jigs in the woodshop, the push block or push stick is usually one of the first that is built. I have qualifications that govern a utilitarian project like this. For one, I rarely purchase materials since scraps can often suffice. Other parameters are to make minimal cuts and processing since these are not that critical. I much prefer wooden push blocks over the plastic ones I've seeen. The plastic ones(besides having to be purchased) seem to not grip the wood as they need to in making a safe cut. I also prefer MDF over plywood.

When taking the time to make a push block, it makes sense to make multiples. I've purposefully shaped it to nest well when making multiples. A piece of 10" x 48" stock can easilly yield 8 blanks: 








These can easilly be separated using a bandsaw to zig zag between the rows(shown in Red). Then follow with crosscutting the individual rough blocks.

One failure of most push blocks IMO is that the heel seems to get chewed up quicker than the base so I've incorporated a replacable heel. In this design, the the heel AND the block can both be 'refreshed' by simply trimming off 1/4" from the bottom. Anticipating this, I've included about 1.5" of solid material on the bottom of the base for just that purpose. The heel can also be replace as needed. It is retained using a 3/4" long brass screw. Brass is used in case of a blade strike so your saw blade won't be damaged. Here's a skeletal view so you can see how the heel fits in place: 

















You can also quickly raise the heel in situations when you are ripping thin material. If the heel is touching the table, then the pushblock is not doing all it was intended to do. The heel should never prevent the bottom of the block from fully contacting the wood.

*The build*:
Begin with *making the heel*. It is simply a 1/2" square stock of pine or hardwood. 









Next, *prepare a 6" x 10" block* of 3/4" MDF or plywood for the base. *Make a slightly loose* 1/2" x 1/2" *kerf*, 1/2" from the rear of the block. 








To get the width of this kerf perfect the first time, you can fit it to the heel *using your favorite KerfMaker*. I use my Disposable one. To achieve the slightly loose fit, when gauging the heel, add a shim of paper as a fudge factor.

Now *laminate a 1/8" cover to the base*. Be sure to not get glue inside the slot for the heel. 









All that is left now is to *add the handle and shape the outside*. I start by drilling two holes for the handle. I use a 1.25" Forstner bit for the ends and then 'connect the dots' using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. You can go the extra mile of making a template for smoothing it up with a router and a flush cut bit. 









Lastly, *round over all the outer edges*(except for the bottom) to make it more comfortable to use. *Drill for and install the brass heel-retainer screw* and "Bob's your uncle". 

There is, however, one situation that this block is not well suited for and that is for ripping very thin stock. For those instances, I suggest making one of these completely out of the base 3/4" material with an integral heel. The reason is that for ripping very thin strips(1/8" or less), the heel should fit flush to the fence so that it can push the thin strip on past the blade. Of course there are other better ways for ripping thin stock which I'll be covering in a future episode.

For those situations, *here's the solid version:*










*Edit:* Actually, if you don't share a shop with others and you can manage your push blocks, if you keep 3 - 4 dedicated to particular width cuts, then they don't tend to get nearly as chewed up and you might do well with the solid version shown last.


----------



## degoose

rance said:


> *The Inevitible Push Block*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all of the jigs in the woodshop, the push block or push stick is usually one of the first that is built. I have qualifications that govern a utilitarian project like this. For one, I rarely purchase materials since scraps can often suffice. Other parameters are to make minimal cuts and processing since these are not that critical. I much prefer wooden push blocks over the plastic ones I've seeen. The plastic ones(besides having to be purchased) seem to not grip the wood as they need to in making a safe cut. I also prefer MDF over plywood.
> 
> When taking the time to make a push block, it makes sense to make multiples. I've purposefully shaped it to nest well when making multiples. A piece of 10" x 48" stock can easilly yield 8 blanks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These can easilly be separated using a bandsaw to zig zag between the rows(shown in Red). Then follow with crosscutting the individual rough blocks.
> 
> One failure of most push blocks IMO is that the heel seems to get chewed up quicker than the base so I've incorporated a replacable heel. In this design, the the heel AND the block can both be 'refreshed' by simply trimming off 1/4" from the bottom. Anticipating this, I've included about 1.5" of solid material on the bottom of the base for just that purpose. The heel can also be replace as needed. It is retained using a 3/4" long brass screw. Brass is used in case of a blade strike so your saw blade won't be damaged. Here's a skeletal view so you can see how the heel fits in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also quickly raise the heel in situations when you are ripping thin material. If the heel is touching the table, then the pushblock is not doing all it was intended to do. The heel should never prevent the bottom of the block from fully contacting the wood.
> 
> *The build*:
> Begin with *making the heel*. It is simply a 1/2" square stock of pine or hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, *prepare a 6" x 10" block* of 3/4" MDF or plywood for the base. *Make a slightly loose* 1/2" x 1/2" *kerf*, 1/2" from the rear of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the width of this kerf perfect the first time, you can fit it to the heel *using your favorite KerfMaker*. I use my Disposable one. To achieve the slightly loose fit, when gauging the heel, add a shim of paper as a fudge factor.
> 
> Now *laminate a 1/8" cover to the base*. Be sure to not get glue inside the slot for the heel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that is left now is to *add the handle and shape the outside*. I start by drilling two holes for the handle. I use a 1.25" Forstner bit for the ends and then 'connect the dots' using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. You can go the extra mile of making a template for smoothing it up with a router and a flush cut bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, *round over all the outer edges*(except for the bottom) to make it more comfortable to use. *Drill for and install the brass heel-retainer screw* and "Bob's your uncle".
> 
> There is, however, one situation that this block is not well suited for and that is for ripping very thin stock. For those instances, I suggest making one of these completely out of the base 3/4" material with an integral heel. The reason is that for ripping very thin strips(1/8" or less), the heel should fit flush to the fence so that it can push the thin strip on past the blade. Of course there are other better ways for ripping thin stock which I'll be covering in a future episode.
> 
> For those situations, *here's the solid version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Actually, if you don't share a shop with others and you can manage your push blocks, if you keep 3 - 4 dedicated to particular width cuts, then they don't tend to get nearly as chewed up and you might do well with the solid version shown last.


Now that is a work of art…


----------



## BritBoxmaker

rance said:


> *The Inevitible Push Block*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all of the jigs in the woodshop, the push block or push stick is usually one of the first that is built. I have qualifications that govern a utilitarian project like this. For one, I rarely purchase materials since scraps can often suffice. Other parameters are to make minimal cuts and processing since these are not that critical. I much prefer wooden push blocks over the plastic ones I've seeen. The plastic ones(besides having to be purchased) seem to not grip the wood as they need to in making a safe cut. I also prefer MDF over plywood.
> 
> When taking the time to make a push block, it makes sense to make multiples. I've purposefully shaped it to nest well when making multiples. A piece of 10" x 48" stock can easilly yield 8 blanks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These can easilly be separated using a bandsaw to zig zag between the rows(shown in Red). Then follow with crosscutting the individual rough blocks.
> 
> One failure of most push blocks IMO is that the heel seems to get chewed up quicker than the base so I've incorporated a replacable heel. In this design, the the heel AND the block can both be 'refreshed' by simply trimming off 1/4" from the bottom. Anticipating this, I've included about 1.5" of solid material on the bottom of the base for just that purpose. The heel can also be replace as needed. It is retained using a 3/4" long brass screw. Brass is used in case of a blade strike so your saw blade won't be damaged. Here's a skeletal view so you can see how the heel fits in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also quickly raise the heel in situations when you are ripping thin material. If the heel is touching the table, then the pushblock is not doing all it was intended to do. The heel should never prevent the bottom of the block from fully contacting the wood.
> 
> *The build*:
> Begin with *making the heel*. It is simply a 1/2" square stock of pine or hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, *prepare a 6" x 10" block* of 3/4" MDF or plywood for the base. *Make a slightly loose* 1/2" x 1/2" *kerf*, 1/2" from the rear of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the width of this kerf perfect the first time, you can fit it to the heel *using your favorite KerfMaker*. I use my Disposable one. To achieve the slightly loose fit, when gauging the heel, add a shim of paper as a fudge factor.
> 
> Now *laminate a 1/8" cover to the base*. Be sure to not get glue inside the slot for the heel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that is left now is to *add the handle and shape the outside*. I start by drilling two holes for the handle. I use a 1.25" Forstner bit for the ends and then 'connect the dots' using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. You can go the extra mile of making a template for smoothing it up with a router and a flush cut bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, *round over all the outer edges*(except for the bottom) to make it more comfortable to use. *Drill for and install the brass heel-retainer screw* and "Bob's your uncle".
> 
> There is, however, one situation that this block is not well suited for and that is for ripping very thin stock. For those instances, I suggest making one of these completely out of the base 3/4" material with an integral heel. The reason is that for ripping very thin strips(1/8" or less), the heel should fit flush to the fence so that it can push the thin strip on past the blade. Of course there are other better ways for ripping thin stock which I'll be covering in a future episode.
> 
> For those situations, *here's the solid version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Actually, if you don't share a shop with others and you can manage your push blocks, if you keep 3 - 4 dedicated to particular width cuts, then they don't tend to get nearly as chewed up and you might do well with the solid version shown last.


I like the re-usable aspect of this. I cut a lot of thin stuff of varying widthes so the heal is going to get chewed up very quickly. Good design.


----------



## shipwright

rance said:


> *The Inevitible Push Block*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all of the jigs in the woodshop, the push block or push stick is usually one of the first that is built. I have qualifications that govern a utilitarian project like this. For one, I rarely purchase materials since scraps can often suffice. Other parameters are to make minimal cuts and processing since these are not that critical. I much prefer wooden push blocks over the plastic ones I've seeen. The plastic ones(besides having to be purchased) seem to not grip the wood as they need to in making a safe cut. I also prefer MDF over plywood.
> 
> When taking the time to make a push block, it makes sense to make multiples. I've purposefully shaped it to nest well when making multiples. A piece of 10" x 48" stock can easilly yield 8 blanks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These can easilly be separated using a bandsaw to zig zag between the rows(shown in Red). Then follow with crosscutting the individual rough blocks.
> 
> One failure of most push blocks IMO is that the heel seems to get chewed up quicker than the base so I've incorporated a replacable heel. In this design, the the heel AND the block can both be 'refreshed' by simply trimming off 1/4" from the bottom. Anticipating this, I've included about 1.5" of solid material on the bottom of the base for just that purpose. The heel can also be replace as needed. It is retained using a 3/4" long brass screw. Brass is used in case of a blade strike so your saw blade won't be damaged. Here's a skeletal view so you can see how the heel fits in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also quickly raise the heel in situations when you are ripping thin material. If the heel is touching the table, then the pushblock is not doing all it was intended to do. The heel should never prevent the bottom of the block from fully contacting the wood.
> 
> *The build*:
> Begin with *making the heel*. It is simply a 1/2" square stock of pine or hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, *prepare a 6" x 10" block* of 3/4" MDF or plywood for the base. *Make a slightly loose* 1/2" x 1/2" *kerf*, 1/2" from the rear of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the width of this kerf perfect the first time, you can fit it to the heel *using your favorite KerfMaker*. I use my Disposable one. To achieve the slightly loose fit, when gauging the heel, add a shim of paper as a fudge factor.
> 
> Now *laminate a 1/8" cover to the base*. Be sure to not get glue inside the slot for the heel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that is left now is to *add the handle and shape the outside*. I start by drilling two holes for the handle. I use a 1.25" Forstner bit for the ends and then 'connect the dots' using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. You can go the extra mile of making a template for smoothing it up with a router and a flush cut bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, *round over all the outer edges*(except for the bottom) to make it more comfortable to use. *Drill for and install the brass heel-retainer screw* and "Bob's your uncle".
> 
> There is, however, one situation that this block is not well suited for and that is for ripping very thin stock. For those instances, I suggest making one of these completely out of the base 3/4" material with an integral heel. The reason is that for ripping very thin strips(1/8" or less), the heel should fit flush to the fence so that it can push the thin strip on past the blade. Of course there are other better ways for ripping thin stock which I'll be covering in a future episode.
> 
> For those situations, *here's the solid version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Actually, if you don't share a shop with others and you can manage your push blocks, if you keep 3 - 4 dedicated to particular width cuts, then they don't tend to get nearly as chewed up and you might do well with the solid version shown last.


Nice Idea Rance.
It's very like the ones I use except mine don't have the handle hole or the "rechargeable" pusher.
You've found a way to actually make this a permanent tool rather than a throw away.


----------



## HuntleyBill

rance said:


> *The Inevitible Push Block*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all of the jigs in the woodshop, the push block or push stick is usually one of the first that is built. I have qualifications that govern a utilitarian project like this. For one, I rarely purchase materials since scraps can often suffice. Other parameters are to make minimal cuts and processing since these are not that critical. I much prefer wooden push blocks over the plastic ones I've seeen. The plastic ones(besides having to be purchased) seem to not grip the wood as they need to in making a safe cut. I also prefer MDF over plywood.
> 
> When taking the time to make a push block, it makes sense to make multiples. I've purposefully shaped it to nest well when making multiples. A piece of 10" x 48" stock can easilly yield 8 blanks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These can easilly be separated using a bandsaw to zig zag between the rows(shown in Red). Then follow with crosscutting the individual rough blocks.
> 
> One failure of most push blocks IMO is that the heel seems to get chewed up quicker than the base so I've incorporated a replacable heel. In this design, the the heel AND the block can both be 'refreshed' by simply trimming off 1/4" from the bottom. Anticipating this, I've included about 1.5" of solid material on the bottom of the base for just that purpose. The heel can also be replace as needed. It is retained using a 3/4" long brass screw. Brass is used in case of a blade strike so your saw blade won't be damaged. Here's a skeletal view so you can see how the heel fits in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also quickly raise the heel in situations when you are ripping thin material. If the heel is touching the table, then the pushblock is not doing all it was intended to do. The heel should never prevent the bottom of the block from fully contacting the wood.
> 
> *The build*:
> Begin with *making the heel*. It is simply a 1/2" square stock of pine or hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, *prepare a 6" x 10" block* of 3/4" MDF or plywood for the base. *Make a slightly loose* 1/2" x 1/2" *kerf*, 1/2" from the rear of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the width of this kerf perfect the first time, you can fit it to the heel *using your favorite KerfMaker*. I use my Disposable one. To achieve the slightly loose fit, when gauging the heel, add a shim of paper as a fudge factor.
> 
> Now *laminate a 1/8" cover to the base*. Be sure to not get glue inside the slot for the heel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that is left now is to *add the handle and shape the outside*. I start by drilling two holes for the handle. I use a 1.25" Forstner bit for the ends and then 'connect the dots' using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. You can go the extra mile of making a template for smoothing it up with a router and a flush cut bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, *round over all the outer edges*(except for the bottom) to make it more comfortable to use. *Drill for and install the brass heel-retainer screw* and "Bob's your uncle".
> 
> There is, however, one situation that this block is not well suited for and that is for ripping very thin stock. For those instances, I suggest making one of these completely out of the base 3/4" material with an integral heel. The reason is that for ripping very thin strips(1/8" or less), the heel should fit flush to the fence so that it can push the thin strip on past the blade. Of course there are other better ways for ripping thin stock which I'll be covering in a future episode.
> 
> For those situations, *here's the solid version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Actually, if you don't share a shop with others and you can manage your push blocks, if you keep 3 - 4 dedicated to particular width cuts, then they don't tend to get nearly as chewed up and you might do well with the solid version shown last.


Very nice job Rance. Now you've gone and done it, I have to run down to the shop and build a bunch of these! I had planned on sitting on the couch all day. Thanks a lot.


----------



## JoeLyddon

rance said:


> *The Inevitible Push Block*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all of the jigs in the woodshop, the push block or push stick is usually one of the first that is built. I have qualifications that govern a utilitarian project like this. For one, I rarely purchase materials since scraps can often suffice. Other parameters are to make minimal cuts and processing since these are not that critical. I much prefer wooden push blocks over the plastic ones I've seeen. The plastic ones(besides having to be purchased) seem to not grip the wood as they need to in making a safe cut. I also prefer MDF over plywood.
> 
> When taking the time to make a push block, it makes sense to make multiples. I've purposefully shaped it to nest well when making multiples. A piece of 10" x 48" stock can easilly yield 8 blanks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These can easilly be separated using a bandsaw to zig zag between the rows(shown in Red). Then follow with crosscutting the individual rough blocks.
> 
> One failure of most push blocks IMO is that the heel seems to get chewed up quicker than the base so I've incorporated a replacable heel. In this design, the the heel AND the block can both be 'refreshed' by simply trimming off 1/4" from the bottom. Anticipating this, I've included about 1.5" of solid material on the bottom of the base for just that purpose. The heel can also be replace as needed. It is retained using a 3/4" long brass screw. Brass is used in case of a blade strike so your saw blade won't be damaged. Here's a skeletal view so you can see how the heel fits in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also quickly raise the heel in situations when you are ripping thin material. If the heel is touching the table, then the pushblock is not doing all it was intended to do. The heel should never prevent the bottom of the block from fully contacting the wood.
> 
> *The build*:
> Begin with *making the heel*. It is simply a 1/2" square stock of pine or hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, *prepare a 6" x 10" block* of 3/4" MDF or plywood for the base. *Make a slightly loose* 1/2" x 1/2" *kerf*, 1/2" from the rear of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the width of this kerf perfect the first time, you can fit it to the heel *using your favorite KerfMaker*. I use my Disposable one. To achieve the slightly loose fit, when gauging the heel, add a shim of paper as a fudge factor.
> 
> Now *laminate a 1/8" cover to the base*. Be sure to not get glue inside the slot for the heel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that is left now is to *add the handle and shape the outside*. I start by drilling two holes for the handle. I use a 1.25" Forstner bit for the ends and then 'connect the dots' using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. You can go the extra mile of making a template for smoothing it up with a router and a flush cut bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, *round over all the outer edges*(except for the bottom) to make it more comfortable to use. *Drill for and install the brass heel-retainer screw* and "Bob's your uncle".
> 
> There is, however, one situation that this block is not well suited for and that is for ripping very thin stock. For those instances, I suggest making one of these completely out of the base 3/4" material with an integral heel. The reason is that for ripping very thin strips(1/8" or less), the heel should fit flush to the fence so that it can push the thin strip on past the blade. Of course there are other better ways for ripping thin stock which I'll be covering in a future episode.
> 
> For those situations, *here's the solid version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Actually, if you don't share a shop with others and you can manage your push blocks, if you keep 3 - 4 dedicated to particular width cuts, then they don't tend to get nearly as chewed up and you might do well with the solid version shown last.


Thank you, Rance…

COOL New design… to an Old thing…


----------



## Cornductor

rance said:


> *The Inevitible Push Block*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all of the jigs in the woodshop, the push block or push stick is usually one of the first that is built. I have qualifications that govern a utilitarian project like this. For one, I rarely purchase materials since scraps can often suffice. Other parameters are to make minimal cuts and processing since these are not that critical. I much prefer wooden push blocks over the plastic ones I've seeen. The plastic ones(besides having to be purchased) seem to not grip the wood as they need to in making a safe cut. I also prefer MDF over plywood.
> 
> When taking the time to make a push block, it makes sense to make multiples. I've purposefully shaped it to nest well when making multiples. A piece of 10" x 48" stock can easilly yield 8 blanks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These can easilly be separated using a bandsaw to zig zag between the rows(shown in Red). Then follow with crosscutting the individual rough blocks.
> 
> One failure of most push blocks IMO is that the heel seems to get chewed up quicker than the base so I've incorporated a replacable heel. In this design, the the heel AND the block can both be 'refreshed' by simply trimming off 1/4" from the bottom. Anticipating this, I've included about 1.5" of solid material on the bottom of the base for just that purpose. The heel can also be replace as needed. It is retained using a 3/4" long brass screw. Brass is used in case of a blade strike so your saw blade won't be damaged. Here's a skeletal view so you can see how the heel fits in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also quickly raise the heel in situations when you are ripping thin material. If the heel is touching the table, then the pushblock is not doing all it was intended to do. The heel should never prevent the bottom of the block from fully contacting the wood.
> 
> *The build*:
> Begin with *making the heel*. It is simply a 1/2" square stock of pine or hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, *prepare a 6" x 10" block* of 3/4" MDF or plywood for the base. *Make a slightly loose* 1/2" x 1/2" *kerf*, 1/2" from the rear of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the width of this kerf perfect the first time, you can fit it to the heel *using your favorite KerfMaker*. I use my Disposable one. To achieve the slightly loose fit, when gauging the heel, add a shim of paper as a fudge factor.
> 
> Now *laminate a 1/8" cover to the base*. Be sure to not get glue inside the slot for the heel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that is left now is to *add the handle and shape the outside*. I start by drilling two holes for the handle. I use a 1.25" Forstner bit for the ends and then 'connect the dots' using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. You can go the extra mile of making a template for smoothing it up with a router and a flush cut bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, *round over all the outer edges*(except for the bottom) to make it more comfortable to use. *Drill for and install the brass heel-retainer screw* and "Bob's your uncle".
> 
> There is, however, one situation that this block is not well suited for and that is for ripping very thin stock. For those instances, I suggest making one of these completely out of the base 3/4" material with an integral heel. The reason is that for ripping very thin strips(1/8" or less), the heel should fit flush to the fence so that it can push the thin strip on past the blade. Of course there are other better ways for ripping thin stock which I'll be covering in a future episode.
> 
> For those situations, *here's the solid version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Actually, if you don't share a shop with others and you can manage your push blocks, if you keep 3 - 4 dedicated to particular width cuts, then they don't tend to get nearly as chewed up and you might do well with the solid version shown last.


Now only if I took the time to sit down and learn sketch-up I could try to come up with my own. Looks good and also nice design.


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *The Inevitible Push Block*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all of the jigs in the woodshop, the push block or push stick is usually one of the first that is built. I have qualifications that govern a utilitarian project like this. For one, I rarely purchase materials since scraps can often suffice. Other parameters are to make minimal cuts and processing since these are not that critical. I much prefer wooden push blocks over the plastic ones I've seeen. The plastic ones(besides having to be purchased) seem to not grip the wood as they need to in making a safe cut. I also prefer MDF over plywood.
> 
> When taking the time to make a push block, it makes sense to make multiples. I've purposefully shaped it to nest well when making multiples. A piece of 10" x 48" stock can easilly yield 8 blanks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These can easilly be separated using a bandsaw to zig zag between the rows(shown in Red). Then follow with crosscutting the individual rough blocks.
> 
> One failure of most push blocks IMO is that the heel seems to get chewed up quicker than the base so I've incorporated a replacable heel. In this design, the the heel AND the block can both be 'refreshed' by simply trimming off 1/4" from the bottom. Anticipating this, I've included about 1.5" of solid material on the bottom of the base for just that purpose. The heel can also be replace as needed. It is retained using a 3/4" long brass screw. Brass is used in case of a blade strike so your saw blade won't be damaged. Here's a skeletal view so you can see how the heel fits in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also quickly raise the heel in situations when you are ripping thin material. If the heel is touching the table, then the pushblock is not doing all it was intended to do. The heel should never prevent the bottom of the block from fully contacting the wood.
> 
> *The build*:
> Begin with *making the heel*. It is simply a 1/2" square stock of pine or hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, *prepare a 6" x 10" block* of 3/4" MDF or plywood for the base. *Make a slightly loose* 1/2" x 1/2" *kerf*, 1/2" from the rear of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the width of this kerf perfect the first time, you can fit it to the heel *using your favorite KerfMaker*. I use my Disposable one. To achieve the slightly loose fit, when gauging the heel, add a shim of paper as a fudge factor.
> 
> Now *laminate a 1/8" cover to the base*. Be sure to not get glue inside the slot for the heel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that is left now is to *add the handle and shape the outside*. I start by drilling two holes for the handle. I use a 1.25" Forstner bit for the ends and then 'connect the dots' using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. You can go the extra mile of making a template for smoothing it up with a router and a flush cut bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, *round over all the outer edges*(except for the bottom) to make it more comfortable to use. *Drill for and install the brass heel-retainer screw* and "Bob's your uncle".
> 
> There is, however, one situation that this block is not well suited for and that is for ripping very thin stock. For those instances, I suggest making one of these completely out of the base 3/4" material with an integral heel. The reason is that for ripping very thin strips(1/8" or less), the heel should fit flush to the fence so that it can push the thin strip on past the blade. Of course there are other better ways for ripping thin stock which I'll be covering in a future episode.
> 
> For those situations, *here's the solid version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Actually, if you don't share a shop with others and you can manage your push blocks, if you keep 3 - 4 dedicated to particular width cuts, then they don't tend to get nearly as chewed up and you might do well with the solid version shown last.


Thank you guys. "Rechargable", that's funny.  Ya know, it seems like it ALWAYS happens. You spend hours tweaking here, nudging there. You think you have it as good as it can get and so you publish it, and THAT's when you come up with a change.

I really wanted to make these as EASY as possible to make, so that they WOULD get made. So here's the revised, kinder, and gentler on the build model:









And the dimensions:









Sorry Bill. I looks now you're gonna haf to throw those all away and build v2.0. 
It's never too late to learn Brandon. Lots of help here and online. Some good books too.


----------



## dannyfixit

rance said:


> *The Inevitible Push Block*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all of the jigs in the woodshop, the push block or push stick is usually one of the first that is built. I have qualifications that govern a utilitarian project like this. For one, I rarely purchase materials since scraps can often suffice. Other parameters are to make minimal cuts and processing since these are not that critical. I much prefer wooden push blocks over the plastic ones I've seeen. The plastic ones(besides having to be purchased) seem to not grip the wood as they need to in making a safe cut. I also prefer MDF over plywood.
> 
> When taking the time to make a push block, it makes sense to make multiples. I've purposefully shaped it to nest well when making multiples. A piece of 10" x 48" stock can easilly yield 8 blanks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These can easilly be separated using a bandsaw to zig zag between the rows(shown in Red). Then follow with crosscutting the individual rough blocks.
> 
> One failure of most push blocks IMO is that the heel seems to get chewed up quicker than the base so I've incorporated a replacable heel. In this design, the the heel AND the block can both be 'refreshed' by simply trimming off 1/4" from the bottom. Anticipating this, I've included about 1.5" of solid material on the bottom of the base for just that purpose. The heel can also be replace as needed. It is retained using a 3/4" long brass screw. Brass is used in case of a blade strike so your saw blade won't be damaged. Here's a skeletal view so you can see how the heel fits in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also quickly raise the heel in situations when you are ripping thin material. If the heel is touching the table, then the pushblock is not doing all it was intended to do. The heel should never prevent the bottom of the block from fully contacting the wood.
> 
> *The build*:
> Begin with *making the heel*. It is simply a 1/2" square stock of pine or hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, *prepare a 6" x 10" block* of 3/4" MDF or plywood for the base. *Make a slightly loose* 1/2" x 1/2" *kerf*, 1/2" from the rear of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the width of this kerf perfect the first time, you can fit it to the heel *using your favorite KerfMaker*. I use my Disposable one. To achieve the slightly loose fit, when gauging the heel, add a shim of paper as a fudge factor.
> 
> Now *laminate a 1/8" cover to the base*. Be sure to not get glue inside the slot for the heel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that is left now is to *add the handle and shape the outside*. I start by drilling two holes for the handle. I use a 1.25" Forstner bit for the ends and then 'connect the dots' using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. You can go the extra mile of making a template for smoothing it up with a router and a flush cut bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, *round over all the outer edges*(except for the bottom) to make it more comfortable to use. *Drill for and install the brass heel-retainer screw* and "Bob's your uncle".
> 
> There is, however, one situation that this block is not well suited for and that is for ripping very thin stock. For those instances, I suggest making one of these completely out of the base 3/4" material with an integral heel. The reason is that for ripping very thin strips(1/8" or less), the heel should fit flush to the fence so that it can push the thin strip on past the blade. Of course there are other better ways for ripping thin stock which I'll be covering in a future episode.
> 
> For those situations, *here's the solid version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Actually, if you don't share a shop with others and you can manage your push blocks, if you keep 3 - 4 dedicated to particular width cuts, then they don't tend to get nearly as chewed up and you might do well with the solid version shown last.












Here is a rough view of a push stick I used in one shop. We cut LOTS of 1" - 3" strips from 8ft sheets of Melamine or plywood. This stick let me push the strips through the blade, as these others do too. Additionally, it let me use the notch on the nose to ensure the strip was totally past the blade without my hand coming near the blade ever. Often, it was necessary to shove the cut strips out of the way of the next strip. The approx 20" length of this push let me reach beyond enough to move them over or out. The long length also let me keep the strips down on the table thus avoiding flying strips and kickback. Generally, these were made out of scrap plywood. Each of us in the shop took artistic license as to the exact shape and beauty.


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *The Inevitible Push Block*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all of the jigs in the woodshop, the push block or push stick is usually one of the first that is built. I have qualifications that govern a utilitarian project like this. For one, I rarely purchase materials since scraps can often suffice. Other parameters are to make minimal cuts and processing since these are not that critical. I much prefer wooden push blocks over the plastic ones I've seeen. The plastic ones(besides having to be purchased) seem to not grip the wood as they need to in making a safe cut. I also prefer MDF over plywood.
> 
> When taking the time to make a push block, it makes sense to make multiples. I've purposefully shaped it to nest well when making multiples. A piece of 10" x 48" stock can easilly yield 8 blanks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These can easilly be separated using a bandsaw to zig zag between the rows(shown in Red). Then follow with crosscutting the individual rough blocks.
> 
> One failure of most push blocks IMO is that the heel seems to get chewed up quicker than the base so I've incorporated a replacable heel. In this design, the the heel AND the block can both be 'refreshed' by simply trimming off 1/4" from the bottom. Anticipating this, I've included about 1.5" of solid material on the bottom of the base for just that purpose. The heel can also be replace as needed. It is retained using a 3/4" long brass screw. Brass is used in case of a blade strike so your saw blade won't be damaged. Here's a skeletal view so you can see how the heel fits in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also quickly raise the heel in situations when you are ripping thin material. If the heel is touching the table, then the pushblock is not doing all it was intended to do. The heel should never prevent the bottom of the block from fully contacting the wood.
> 
> *The build*:
> Begin with *making the heel*. It is simply a 1/2" square stock of pine or hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, *prepare a 6" x 10" block* of 3/4" MDF or plywood for the base. *Make a slightly loose* 1/2" x 1/2" *kerf*, 1/2" from the rear of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the width of this kerf perfect the first time, you can fit it to the heel *using your favorite KerfMaker*. I use my Disposable one. To achieve the slightly loose fit, when gauging the heel, add a shim of paper as a fudge factor.
> 
> Now *laminate a 1/8" cover to the base*. Be sure to not get glue inside the slot for the heel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that is left now is to *add the handle and shape the outside*. I start by drilling two holes for the handle. I use a 1.25" Forstner bit for the ends and then 'connect the dots' using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. You can go the extra mile of making a template for smoothing it up with a router and a flush cut bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, *round over all the outer edges*(except for the bottom) to make it more comfortable to use. *Drill for and install the brass heel-retainer screw* and "Bob's your uncle".
> 
> There is, however, one situation that this block is not well suited for and that is for ripping very thin stock. For those instances, I suggest making one of these completely out of the base 3/4" material with an integral heel. The reason is that for ripping very thin strips(1/8" or less), the heel should fit flush to the fence so that it can push the thin strip on past the blade. Of course there are other better ways for ripping thin stock which I'll be covering in a future episode.
> 
> For those situations, *here's the solid version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Actually, if you don't share a shop with others and you can manage your push blocks, if you keep 3 - 4 dedicated to particular width cuts, then they don't tend to get nearly as chewed up and you might do well with the solid version shown last.


That's a good one Danny. I like the notch on the end. Nothing wrong with having specialized pushers. No 1 pusher is best for all situations. Thanks for sharing.

You got me to thinking even more. I really don't like that 1/8" piece holding the heel away from the fence so here's "Push Block v2.0": 









Those two screws should hold the heel in place and they are high enough to not interfere with the fence.


----------



## Jimboe

rance said:


> *The Inevitible Push Block*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all of the jigs in the woodshop, the push block or push stick is usually one of the first that is built. I have qualifications that govern a utilitarian project like this. For one, I rarely purchase materials since scraps can often suffice. Other parameters are to make minimal cuts and processing since these are not that critical. I much prefer wooden push blocks over the plastic ones I've seeen. The plastic ones(besides having to be purchased) seem to not grip the wood as they need to in making a safe cut. I also prefer MDF over plywood.
> 
> When taking the time to make a push block, it makes sense to make multiples. I've purposefully shaped it to nest well when making multiples. A piece of 10" x 48" stock can easilly yield 8 blanks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These can easilly be separated using a bandsaw to zig zag between the rows(shown in Red). Then follow with crosscutting the individual rough blocks.
> 
> One failure of most push blocks IMO is that the heel seems to get chewed up quicker than the base so I've incorporated a replacable heel. In this design, the the heel AND the block can both be 'refreshed' by simply trimming off 1/4" from the bottom. Anticipating this, I've included about 1.5" of solid material on the bottom of the base for just that purpose. The heel can also be replace as needed. It is retained using a 3/4" long brass screw. Brass is used in case of a blade strike so your saw blade won't be damaged. Here's a skeletal view so you can see how the heel fits in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also quickly raise the heel in situations when you are ripping thin material. If the heel is touching the table, then the pushblock is not doing all it was intended to do. The heel should never prevent the bottom of the block from fully contacting the wood.
> 
> *The build*:
> Begin with *making the heel*. It is simply a 1/2" square stock of pine or hardwood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, *prepare a 6" x 10" block* of 3/4" MDF or plywood for the base. *Make a slightly loose* 1/2" x 1/2" *kerf*, 1/2" from the rear of the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the width of this kerf perfect the first time, you can fit it to the heel *using your favorite KerfMaker*. I use my Disposable one. To achieve the slightly loose fit, when gauging the heel, add a shim of paper as a fudge factor.
> 
> Now *laminate a 1/8" cover to the base*. Be sure to not get glue inside the slot for the heel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that is left now is to *add the handle and shape the outside*. I start by drilling two holes for the handle. I use a 1.25" Forstner bit for the ends and then 'connect the dots' using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. You can go the extra mile of making a template for smoothing it up with a router and a flush cut bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, *round over all the outer edges*(except for the bottom) to make it more comfortable to use. *Drill for and install the brass heel-retainer screw* and "Bob's your uncle".
> 
> There is, however, one situation that this block is not well suited for and that is for ripping very thin stock. For those instances, I suggest making one of these completely out of the base 3/4" material with an integral heel. The reason is that for ripping very thin strips(1/8" or less), the heel should fit flush to the fence so that it can push the thin strip on past the blade. Of course there are other better ways for ripping thin stock which I'll be covering in a future episode.
> 
> For those situations, *here's the solid version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Actually, if you don't share a shop with others and you can manage your push blocks, if you keep 3 - 4 dedicated to particular width cuts, then they don't tend to get nearly as chewed up and you might do well with the solid version shown last.


Wow that is really nice ..im gonna have to make one of these thanks !!!


----------



## rance

*Question on Wood Rack Installation*

I'm installing a wood rack I built and would appreciate any input as to mounting. This is going in a dingy basement. In fact, it is going in the only room remaining that still has a dirt floor. The rack has been built and consists of 4 vertical supports as follows:










The room where it is going looks something like this:










The rack will be mounted on the right-hand wall like this:










The vertical pieces will be supported by a simple 2×4 lying flat on the floor. Verticals will be toe-nailed to it, or more likely screwed to it(toe-nail style). The upper ends will sit flat against the joist by the wall. My question has to with fastening the upper part securely. I'm considering a simple 2×4 block(shown in gold) with the center cut out and installed as follows:










I will be screwing into the left end of the block through the left-hand joist and toe-nailing it on the right end to that first joist. Connection will be entirely with the joists. No connection to the flooring above. Would you consider this sufficient or is more blocking needed? I've calculated a maximum load of about 150 lbs on each support. That is the maximum. I doubt they'll get more than 100 in actuallity.

Suggestions, comments?


----------



## RTim

rance said:


> *Question on Wood Rack Installation*
> 
> I'm installing a wood rack I built and would appreciate any input as to mounting. This is going in a dingy basement. In fact, it is going in the only room remaining that still has a dirt floor. The rack has been built and consists of 4 vertical supports as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The room where it is going looks something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rack will be mounted on the right-hand wall like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The vertical pieces will be supported by a simple 2×4 lying flat on the floor. Verticals will be toe-nailed to it, or more likely screwed to it(toe-nail style). The upper ends will sit flat against the joist by the wall. My question has to with fastening the upper part securely. I'm considering a simple 2×4 block(shown in gold) with the center cut out and installed as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be screwing into the left end of the block through the left-hand joist and toe-nailing it on the right end to that first joist. Connection will be entirely with the joists. No connection to the flooring above. Would you consider this sufficient or is more blocking needed? I've calculated a maximum load of about 150 lbs on each support. That is the maximum. I doubt they'll get more than 100 in actuallity.
> 
> Suggestions, comments?


Those should work just fine! In fact, more than fine. At the top of a wood rack, it's all pull out force, very little down force on the fasteners as the weight is supported by the floor. So what you are doing is pinning the upright against the joist and using the adjacent joist to keep the top from tipping away from the wall.

The only thing that worries me is the dirt floor. If it shifts of compresses, then all your weight is hanging from your fasteners. You might consider using a concrete block or post pier buried in the floor beneath each vertical post to help carry the load.

I have a similar situation in my basement except it's a concrete floor and I am supporting shelf units. I have had over 2000 lbs. of stuff on those shelves and nothing has budged.


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *Question on Wood Rack Installation*
> 
> I'm installing a wood rack I built and would appreciate any input as to mounting. This is going in a dingy basement. In fact, it is going in the only room remaining that still has a dirt floor. The rack has been built and consists of 4 vertical supports as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The room where it is going looks something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rack will be mounted on the right-hand wall like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The vertical pieces will be supported by a simple 2×4 lying flat on the floor. Verticals will be toe-nailed to it, or more likely screwed to it(toe-nail style). The upper ends will sit flat against the joist by the wall. My question has to with fastening the upper part securely. I'm considering a simple 2×4 block(shown in gold) with the center cut out and installed as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be screwing into the left end of the block through the left-hand joist and toe-nailing it on the right end to that first joist. Connection will be entirely with the joists. No connection to the flooring above. Would you consider this sufficient or is more blocking needed? I've calculated a maximum load of about 150 lbs on each support. That is the maximum. I doubt they'll get more than 100 in actuallity.
> 
> Suggestions, comments?


Thanks for the input Tim. Maybe I'll use 2×6's and toe-nail into the other joist and the verticals can just float. This is sort of a short term solution. The long term solution is to move.


----------



## ShopTinker

rance said:


> *Question on Wood Rack Installation*
> 
> I'm installing a wood rack I built and would appreciate any input as to mounting. This is going in a dingy basement. In fact, it is going in the only room remaining that still has a dirt floor. The rack has been built and consists of 4 vertical supports as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The room where it is going looks something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rack will be mounted on the right-hand wall like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The vertical pieces will be supported by a simple 2×4 lying flat on the floor. Verticals will be toe-nailed to it, or more likely screwed to it(toe-nail style). The upper ends will sit flat against the joist by the wall. My question has to with fastening the upper part securely. I'm considering a simple 2×4 block(shown in gold) with the center cut out and installed as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be screwing into the left end of the block through the left-hand joist and toe-nailing it on the right end to that first joist. Connection will be entirely with the joists. No connection to the flooring above. Would you consider this sufficient or is more blocking needed? I've calculated a maximum load of about 150 lbs on each support. That is the maximum. I doubt they'll get more than 100 in actuallity.
> 
> Suggestions, comments?


I'd use a couple of 5/16 lags with fender washers to connect the verticals to the joist behind them or use countersunk Tapcon screws through the vertical and into the brick wall below the joist and about 1/3 of the way down.


----------



## JoeLyddon

rance said:


> *Question on Wood Rack Installation*
> 
> I'm installing a wood rack I built and would appreciate any input as to mounting. This is going in a dingy basement. In fact, it is going in the only room remaining that still has a dirt floor. The rack has been built and consists of 4 vertical supports as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The room where it is going looks something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rack will be mounted on the right-hand wall like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The vertical pieces will be supported by a simple 2×4 lying flat on the floor. Verticals will be toe-nailed to it, or more likely screwed to it(toe-nail style). The upper ends will sit flat against the joist by the wall. My question has to with fastening the upper part securely. I'm considering a simple 2×4 block(shown in gold) with the center cut out and installed as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be screwing into the left end of the block through the left-hand joist and toe-nailing it on the right end to that first joist. Connection will be entirely with the joists. No connection to the flooring above. Would you consider this sufficient or is more blocking needed? I've calculated a maximum load of about 150 lbs on each support. That is the maximum. I doubt they'll get more than 100 in actuallity.
> 
> Suggestions, comments?


rance:

Looks real good to me…


----------



## Kentuk55

rance said:


> *Question on Wood Rack Installation*
> 
> I'm installing a wood rack I built and would appreciate any input as to mounting. This is going in a dingy basement. In fact, it is going in the only room remaining that still has a dirt floor. The rack has been built and consists of 4 vertical supports as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The room where it is going looks something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rack will be mounted on the right-hand wall like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The vertical pieces will be supported by a simple 2×4 lying flat on the floor. Verticals will be toe-nailed to it, or more likely screwed to it(toe-nail style). The upper ends will sit flat against the joist by the wall. My question has to with fastening the upper part securely. I'm considering a simple 2×4 block(shown in gold) with the center cut out and installed as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be screwing into the left end of the block through the left-hand joist and toe-nailing it on the right end to that first joist. Connection will be entirely with the joists. No connection to the flooring above. Would you consider this sufficient or is more blocking needed? I've calculated a maximum load of about 150 lbs on each support. That is the maximum. I doubt they'll get more than 100 in actuallity.
> 
> Suggestions, comments?


I think what you're doing will work fine. you'll be happy with all that storage space. it will hold quite a bit


----------



## rance

*TS Blade Holder*

In pondering the best way to store my table saw blades, I came up with this design. I'm sure I've just borrowed bits & pieces from other designs and combined them here though. Isn't that the way it always happens? 

Here's the assembled box with a few of my favorite Red, Silver, and my new Blue blades: 







#1

My Design Criteria:
- Allow *quick access* to any blade without too much moving of other blades to get to the one I was after.
- Provide reasonable *protection* from banging the blades against each other and chipping the teeth.
- Allow a quick *visual of inventory* and selection.
- Hold *a lot of blades* without taking up a lot of space.
- *Simple* for anyone to build
- Oh, and lets not forget… made from *cheap*(or better yet, *FREE*) materials.

A close second was the *Pizza storage system*. I still believe a simple cubby hole system to hold Four or more 10" Pizza boxes would suit almost all of my requirements. Each pizza box could contain a) Rip, b) Crosscut, c) Specialty, and d) Needs Resharpened. Each box would sit on its own shelf and have a layer of cardboard to separate the blades in the box. Extra cardboard dividers would be stored under the bottom blade in each box:







#2
Almost forgot to mention the French Cleats on the back. A wonderful idea, whoever came up with that one. The other box has FC's as well but must have been hidden when I took the snapshot.

FWIW: Did you know that you can easilly and accurately *cut cardboard on your bandsaw and table saw*? I've done this for years. Be a little extra cautious though. Remove all ragged edges(and staples) before attempting this. And of course, if you don't feel comfortable doing this, then don't. 

Although I like the Pizza box design, I thought some folks would want a little bit classier holder.

I designed this at *9 1/4" deep* so the blades would protrude for easy access. And at *13" x 17 1/4"*, it doesn't take up much wall space. Not bad for *storing 20 blades* and having instant access to every one. The carcase was designed at 1/2" thick with 3/32 Hardboard for the dividers. 







#3
There's even storage for your favorite *Dado set* (or a nice Pizza).

The shelves do not go all the way to the back. This allows the inevitible sawdust accumulation to fall out the back. 







#4
I realize that is probably overkill, but I included it here just to show how you can think ahead on your projects.

You can see from this cut-away how little riser blocks are added to every other slot to allow easier access when grasping a blade. You can also see how *the shelf is slanted* to keep your blades in place:







#5

Even the riser blocks allow for natural sawdust evacuation as they are chamfered at the back:







#6

The riser blocks are removable and could be shaped to allow for some of your *7 1/4" blades*. Actually, if you're gonna do that, you might as well put the 7 1/4" blades on the bottom and all your 10" blades on the riser blocks. 







#7

Get creative, and save some space. Any and all suggestions are welcome.

EDIT: The vertical hardboard dividers don't have to be glued in. They could be removable as well.


----------



## ShopTinker

rance said:


> *TS Blade Holder*
> 
> In pondering the best way to store my table saw blades, I came up with this design. I'm sure I've just borrowed bits & pieces from other designs and combined them here though. Isn't that the way it always happens?
> 
> Here's the assembled box with a few of my favorite Red, Silver, and my new Blue blades:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #1
> 
> My Design Criteria:
> - Allow *quick access* to any blade without too much moving of other blades to get to the one I was after.
> - Provide reasonable *protection* from banging the blades against each other and chipping the teeth.
> - Allow a quick *visual of inventory* and selection.
> - Hold *a lot of blades* without taking up a lot of space.
> - *Simple* for anyone to build
> - Oh, and lets not forget… made from *cheap*(or better yet, *FREE*) materials.
> 
> A close second was the *Pizza storage system*. I still believe a simple cubby hole system to hold Four or more 10" Pizza boxes would suit almost all of my requirements. Each pizza box could contain a) Rip, b) Crosscut, c) Specialty, and d) Needs Resharpened. Each box would sit on its own shelf and have a layer of cardboard to separate the blades in the box. Extra cardboard dividers would be stored under the bottom blade in each box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2
> Almost forgot to mention the French Cleats on the back. A wonderful idea, whoever came up with that one. The other box has FC's as well but must have been hidden when I took the snapshot.
> 
> FWIW: Did you know that you can easilly and accurately *cut cardboard on your bandsaw and table saw*? I've done this for years. Be a little extra cautious though. Remove all ragged edges(and staples) before attempting this. And of course, if you don't feel comfortable doing this, then don't.
> 
> Although I like the Pizza box design, I thought some folks would want a little bit classier holder.
> 
> I designed this at *9 1/4" deep* so the blades would protrude for easy access. And at *13" x 17 1/4"*, it doesn't take up much wall space. Not bad for *storing 20 blades* and having instant access to every one. The carcase was designed at 1/2" thick with 3/32 Hardboard for the dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #3
> There's even storage for your favorite *Dado set* (or a nice Pizza).
> 
> The shelves do not go all the way to the back. This allows the inevitible sawdust accumulation to fall out the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4
> I realize that is probably overkill, but I included it here just to show how you can think ahead on your projects.
> 
> You can see from this cut-away how little riser blocks are added to every other slot to allow easier access when grasping a blade. You can also see how *the shelf is slanted* to keep your blades in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5
> 
> Even the riser blocks allow for natural sawdust evacuation as they are chamfered at the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #6
> 
> The riser blocks are removable and could be shaped to allow for some of your *7 1/4" blades*. Actually, if you're gonna do that, you might as well put the 7 1/4" blades on the bottom and all your 10" blades on the riser blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #7
> 
> Get creative, and save some space. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
> 
> EDIT: The vertical hardboard dividers don't have to be glued in. They could be removable as well.


I like it. Very compact and easy to get the blades in and out. Good job on the sketches. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## JoeLyddon

rance said:


> *TS Blade Holder*
> 
> In pondering the best way to store my table saw blades, I came up with this design. I'm sure I've just borrowed bits & pieces from other designs and combined them here though. Isn't that the way it always happens?
> 
> Here's the assembled box with a few of my favorite Red, Silver, and my new Blue blades:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #1
> 
> My Design Criteria:
> - Allow *quick access* to any blade without too much moving of other blades to get to the one I was after.
> - Provide reasonable *protection* from banging the blades against each other and chipping the teeth.
> - Allow a quick *visual of inventory* and selection.
> - Hold *a lot of blades* without taking up a lot of space.
> - *Simple* for anyone to build
> - Oh, and lets not forget… made from *cheap*(or better yet, *FREE*) materials.
> 
> A close second was the *Pizza storage system*. I still believe a simple cubby hole system to hold Four or more 10" Pizza boxes would suit almost all of my requirements. Each pizza box could contain a) Rip, b) Crosscut, c) Specialty, and d) Needs Resharpened. Each box would sit on its own shelf and have a layer of cardboard to separate the blades in the box. Extra cardboard dividers would be stored under the bottom blade in each box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2
> Almost forgot to mention the French Cleats on the back. A wonderful idea, whoever came up with that one. The other box has FC's as well but must have been hidden when I took the snapshot.
> 
> FWIW: Did you know that you can easilly and accurately *cut cardboard on your bandsaw and table saw*? I've done this for years. Be a little extra cautious though. Remove all ragged edges(and staples) before attempting this. And of course, if you don't feel comfortable doing this, then don't.
> 
> Although I like the Pizza box design, I thought some folks would want a little bit classier holder.
> 
> I designed this at *9 1/4" deep* so the blades would protrude for easy access. And at *13" x 17 1/4"*, it doesn't take up much wall space. Not bad for *storing 20 blades* and having instant access to every one. The carcase was designed at 1/2" thick with 3/32 Hardboard for the dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #3
> There's even storage for your favorite *Dado set* (or a nice Pizza).
> 
> The shelves do not go all the way to the back. This allows the inevitible sawdust accumulation to fall out the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4
> I realize that is probably overkill, but I included it here just to show how you can think ahead on your projects.
> 
> You can see from this cut-away how little riser blocks are added to every other slot to allow easier access when grasping a blade. You can also see how *the shelf is slanted* to keep your blades in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5
> 
> Even the riser blocks allow for natural sawdust evacuation as they are chamfered at the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #6
> 
> The riser blocks are removable and could be shaped to allow for some of your *7 1/4" blades*. Actually, if you're gonna do that, you might as well put the 7 1/4" blades on the bottom and all your 10" blades on the riser blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #7
> 
> Get creative, and save some space. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
> 
> EDIT: The vertical hardboard dividers don't have to be glued in. They could be removable as well.


COOL design…

That open slot in the Bottom/back is COOL too… to let the sawdust have a place to go… GOOD!

Do you have a string of small nails or something between the Shelf & the Back (sawdust space)?
... looks like something… can't make'm out…

Again… NICE design!

Thank you!


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *TS Blade Holder*
> 
> In pondering the best way to store my table saw blades, I came up with this design. I'm sure I've just borrowed bits & pieces from other designs and combined them here though. Isn't that the way it always happens?
> 
> Here's the assembled box with a few of my favorite Red, Silver, and my new Blue blades:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #1
> 
> My Design Criteria:
> - Allow *quick access* to any blade without too much moving of other blades to get to the one I was after.
> - Provide reasonable *protection* from banging the blades against each other and chipping the teeth.
> - Allow a quick *visual of inventory* and selection.
> - Hold *a lot of blades* without taking up a lot of space.
> - *Simple* for anyone to build
> - Oh, and lets not forget… made from *cheap*(or better yet, *FREE*) materials.
> 
> A close second was the *Pizza storage system*. I still believe a simple cubby hole system to hold Four or more 10" Pizza boxes would suit almost all of my requirements. Each pizza box could contain a) Rip, b) Crosscut, c) Specialty, and d) Needs Resharpened. Each box would sit on its own shelf and have a layer of cardboard to separate the blades in the box. Extra cardboard dividers would be stored under the bottom blade in each box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2
> Almost forgot to mention the French Cleats on the back. A wonderful idea, whoever came up with that one. The other box has FC's as well but must have been hidden when I took the snapshot.
> 
> FWIW: Did you know that you can easilly and accurately *cut cardboard on your bandsaw and table saw*? I've done this for years. Be a little extra cautious though. Remove all ragged edges(and staples) before attempting this. And of course, if you don't feel comfortable doing this, then don't.
> 
> Although I like the Pizza box design, I thought some folks would want a little bit classier holder.
> 
> I designed this at *9 1/4" deep* so the blades would protrude for easy access. And at *13" x 17 1/4"*, it doesn't take up much wall space. Not bad for *storing 20 blades* and having instant access to every one. The carcase was designed at 1/2" thick with 3/32 Hardboard for the dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #3
> There's even storage for your favorite *Dado set* (or a nice Pizza).
> 
> The shelves do not go all the way to the back. This allows the inevitible sawdust accumulation to fall out the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4
> I realize that is probably overkill, but I included it here just to show how you can think ahead on your projects.
> 
> You can see from this cut-away how little riser blocks are added to every other slot to allow easier access when grasping a blade. You can also see how *the shelf is slanted* to keep your blades in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5
> 
> Even the riser blocks allow for natural sawdust evacuation as they are chamfered at the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #6
> 
> The riser blocks are removable and could be shaped to allow for some of your *7 1/4" blades*. Actually, if you're gonna do that, you might as well put the 7 1/4" blades on the bottom and all your 10" blades on the riser blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #7
> 
> Get creative, and save some space. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
> 
> EDIT: The vertical hardboard dividers don't have to be glued in. They could be removable as well.


Thanks Dan/Joe. 
No nails there Joe. That's just the hardboard dividers and riser blocks you see under there. Another view:


----------



## JoeLyddon

rance said:


> *TS Blade Holder*
> 
> In pondering the best way to store my table saw blades, I came up with this design. I'm sure I've just borrowed bits & pieces from other designs and combined them here though. Isn't that the way it always happens?
> 
> Here's the assembled box with a few of my favorite Red, Silver, and my new Blue blades:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #1
> 
> My Design Criteria:
> - Allow *quick access* to any blade without too much moving of other blades to get to the one I was after.
> - Provide reasonable *protection* from banging the blades against each other and chipping the teeth.
> - Allow a quick *visual of inventory* and selection.
> - Hold *a lot of blades* without taking up a lot of space.
> - *Simple* for anyone to build
> - Oh, and lets not forget… made from *cheap*(or better yet, *FREE*) materials.
> 
> A close second was the *Pizza storage system*. I still believe a simple cubby hole system to hold Four or more 10" Pizza boxes would suit almost all of my requirements. Each pizza box could contain a) Rip, b) Crosscut, c) Specialty, and d) Needs Resharpened. Each box would sit on its own shelf and have a layer of cardboard to separate the blades in the box. Extra cardboard dividers would be stored under the bottom blade in each box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2
> Almost forgot to mention the French Cleats on the back. A wonderful idea, whoever came up with that one. The other box has FC's as well but must have been hidden when I took the snapshot.
> 
> FWIW: Did you know that you can easilly and accurately *cut cardboard on your bandsaw and table saw*? I've done this for years. Be a little extra cautious though. Remove all ragged edges(and staples) before attempting this. And of course, if you don't feel comfortable doing this, then don't.
> 
> Although I like the Pizza box design, I thought some folks would want a little bit classier holder.
> 
> I designed this at *9 1/4" deep* so the blades would protrude for easy access. And at *13" x 17 1/4"*, it doesn't take up much wall space. Not bad for *storing 20 blades* and having instant access to every one. The carcase was designed at 1/2" thick with 3/32 Hardboard for the dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #3
> There's even storage for your favorite *Dado set* (or a nice Pizza).
> 
> The shelves do not go all the way to the back. This allows the inevitible sawdust accumulation to fall out the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4
> I realize that is probably overkill, but I included it here just to show how you can think ahead on your projects.
> 
> You can see from this cut-away how little riser blocks are added to every other slot to allow easier access when grasping a blade. You can also see how *the shelf is slanted* to keep your blades in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5
> 
> Even the riser blocks allow for natural sawdust evacuation as they are chamfered at the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #6
> 
> The riser blocks are removable and could be shaped to allow for some of your *7 1/4" blades*. Actually, if you're gonna do that, you might as well put the 7 1/4" blades on the bottom and all your 10" blades on the riser blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #7
> 
> Get creative, and save some space. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
> 
> EDIT: The vertical hardboard dividers don't have to be glued in. They could be removable as well.


OK, in pic#4… it's the corners of the vertical pieces going to the Back with the pointed edges going to the back & seen from the bottom…

Thank you!

Great job!


----------



## Cozmo35

rance said:


> *TS Blade Holder*
> 
> In pondering the best way to store my table saw blades, I came up with this design. I'm sure I've just borrowed bits & pieces from other designs and combined them here though. Isn't that the way it always happens?
> 
> Here's the assembled box with a few of my favorite Red, Silver, and my new Blue blades:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #1
> 
> My Design Criteria:
> - Allow *quick access* to any blade without too much moving of other blades to get to the one I was after.
> - Provide reasonable *protection* from banging the blades against each other and chipping the teeth.
> - Allow a quick *visual of inventory* and selection.
> - Hold *a lot of blades* without taking up a lot of space.
> - *Simple* for anyone to build
> - Oh, and lets not forget… made from *cheap*(or better yet, *FREE*) materials.
> 
> A close second was the *Pizza storage system*. I still believe a simple cubby hole system to hold Four or more 10" Pizza boxes would suit almost all of my requirements. Each pizza box could contain a) Rip, b) Crosscut, c) Specialty, and d) Needs Resharpened. Each box would sit on its own shelf and have a layer of cardboard to separate the blades in the box. Extra cardboard dividers would be stored under the bottom blade in each box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2
> Almost forgot to mention the French Cleats on the back. A wonderful idea, whoever came up with that one. The other box has FC's as well but must have been hidden when I took the snapshot.
> 
> FWIW: Did you know that you can easilly and accurately *cut cardboard on your bandsaw and table saw*? I've done this for years. Be a little extra cautious though. Remove all ragged edges(and staples) before attempting this. And of course, if you don't feel comfortable doing this, then don't.
> 
> Although I like the Pizza box design, I thought some folks would want a little bit classier holder.
> 
> I designed this at *9 1/4" deep* so the blades would protrude for easy access. And at *13" x 17 1/4"*, it doesn't take up much wall space. Not bad for *storing 20 blades* and having instant access to every one. The carcase was designed at 1/2" thick with 3/32 Hardboard for the dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #3
> There's even storage for your favorite *Dado set* (or a nice Pizza).
> 
> The shelves do not go all the way to the back. This allows the inevitible sawdust accumulation to fall out the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4
> I realize that is probably overkill, but I included it here just to show how you can think ahead on your projects.
> 
> You can see from this cut-away how little riser blocks are added to every other slot to allow easier access when grasping a blade. You can also see how *the shelf is slanted* to keep your blades in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5
> 
> Even the riser blocks allow for natural sawdust evacuation as they are chamfered at the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #6
> 
> The riser blocks are removable and could be shaped to allow for some of your *7 1/4" blades*. Actually, if you're gonna do that, you might as well put the 7 1/4" blades on the bottom and all your 10" blades on the riser blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #7
> 
> Get creative, and save some space. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
> 
> EDIT: The vertical hardboard dividers don't have to be glued in. They could be removable as well.


WOW Rance, my hats off to you on this one. Great job!


----------



## LeeJ

rance said:


> *TS Blade Holder*
> 
> In pondering the best way to store my table saw blades, I came up with this design. I'm sure I've just borrowed bits & pieces from other designs and combined them here though. Isn't that the way it always happens?
> 
> Here's the assembled box with a few of my favorite Red, Silver, and my new Blue blades:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #1
> 
> My Design Criteria:
> - Allow *quick access* to any blade without too much moving of other blades to get to the one I was after.
> - Provide reasonable *protection* from banging the blades against each other and chipping the teeth.
> - Allow a quick *visual of inventory* and selection.
> - Hold *a lot of blades* without taking up a lot of space.
> - *Simple* for anyone to build
> - Oh, and lets not forget… made from *cheap*(or better yet, *FREE*) materials.
> 
> A close second was the *Pizza storage system*. I still believe a simple cubby hole system to hold Four or more 10" Pizza boxes would suit almost all of my requirements. Each pizza box could contain a) Rip, b) Crosscut, c) Specialty, and d) Needs Resharpened. Each box would sit on its own shelf and have a layer of cardboard to separate the blades in the box. Extra cardboard dividers would be stored under the bottom blade in each box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2
> Almost forgot to mention the French Cleats on the back. A wonderful idea, whoever came up with that one. The other box has FC's as well but must have been hidden when I took the snapshot.
> 
> FWIW: Did you know that you can easilly and accurately *cut cardboard on your bandsaw and table saw*? I've done this for years. Be a little extra cautious though. Remove all ragged edges(and staples) before attempting this. And of course, if you don't feel comfortable doing this, then don't.
> 
> Although I like the Pizza box design, I thought some folks would want a little bit classier holder.
> 
> I designed this at *9 1/4" deep* so the blades would protrude for easy access. And at *13" x 17 1/4"*, it doesn't take up much wall space. Not bad for *storing 20 blades* and having instant access to every one. The carcase was designed at 1/2" thick with 3/32 Hardboard for the dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #3
> There's even storage for your favorite *Dado set* (or a nice Pizza).
> 
> The shelves do not go all the way to the back. This allows the inevitible sawdust accumulation to fall out the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4
> I realize that is probably overkill, but I included it here just to show how you can think ahead on your projects.
> 
> You can see from this cut-away how little riser blocks are added to every other slot to allow easier access when grasping a blade. You can also see how *the shelf is slanted* to keep your blades in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5
> 
> Even the riser blocks allow for natural sawdust evacuation as they are chamfered at the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #6
> 
> The riser blocks are removable and could be shaped to allow for some of your *7 1/4" blades*. Actually, if you're gonna do that, you might as well put the 7 1/4" blades on the bottom and all your 10" blades on the riser blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #7
> 
> Get creative, and save some space. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
> 
> EDIT: The vertical hardboard dividers don't have to be glued in. They could be removable as well.


Rance, You are "da man" with sketch up!

Nicely done.

Lee


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *TS Blade Holder*
> 
> In pondering the best way to store my table saw blades, I came up with this design. I'm sure I've just borrowed bits & pieces from other designs and combined them here though. Isn't that the way it always happens?
> 
> Here's the assembled box with a few of my favorite Red, Silver, and my new Blue blades:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #1
> 
> My Design Criteria:
> - Allow *quick access* to any blade without too much moving of other blades to get to the one I was after.
> - Provide reasonable *protection* from banging the blades against each other and chipping the teeth.
> - Allow a quick *visual of inventory* and selection.
> - Hold *a lot of blades* without taking up a lot of space.
> - *Simple* for anyone to build
> - Oh, and lets not forget… made from *cheap*(or better yet, *FREE*) materials.
> 
> A close second was the *Pizza storage system*. I still believe a simple cubby hole system to hold Four or more 10" Pizza boxes would suit almost all of my requirements. Each pizza box could contain a) Rip, b) Crosscut, c) Specialty, and d) Needs Resharpened. Each box would sit on its own shelf and have a layer of cardboard to separate the blades in the box. Extra cardboard dividers would be stored under the bottom blade in each box:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2
> Almost forgot to mention the French Cleats on the back. A wonderful idea, whoever came up with that one. The other box has FC's as well but must have been hidden when I took the snapshot.
> 
> FWIW: Did you know that you can easilly and accurately *cut cardboard on your bandsaw and table saw*? I've done this for years. Be a little extra cautious though. Remove all ragged edges(and staples) before attempting this. And of course, if you don't feel comfortable doing this, then don't.
> 
> Although I like the Pizza box design, I thought some folks would want a little bit classier holder.
> 
> I designed this at *9 1/4" deep* so the blades would protrude for easy access. And at *13" x 17 1/4"*, it doesn't take up much wall space. Not bad for *storing 20 blades* and having instant access to every one. The carcase was designed at 1/2" thick with 3/32 Hardboard for the dividers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #3
> There's even storage for your favorite *Dado set* (or a nice Pizza).
> 
> The shelves do not go all the way to the back. This allows the inevitible sawdust accumulation to fall out the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4
> I realize that is probably overkill, but I included it here just to show how you can think ahead on your projects.
> 
> You can see from this cut-away how little riser blocks are added to every other slot to allow easier access when grasping a blade. You can also see how *the shelf is slanted* to keep your blades in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5
> 
> Even the riser blocks allow for natural sawdust evacuation as they are chamfered at the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #6
> 
> The riser blocks are removable and could be shaped to allow for some of your *7 1/4" blades*. Actually, if you're gonna do that, you might as well put the 7 1/4" blades on the bottom and all your 10" blades on the riser blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #7
> 
> Get creative, and save some space. Any and all suggestions are welcome.
> 
> EDIT: The vertical hardboard dividers don't have to be glued in. They could be removable as well.


Thanks Lee/Cosmo, but there are many here on LJ that can run circles around me. Always learning though. I learned a new thing about 'Intersect - With Model' just yesterday. Makes building even easier. I still don't do the plug-ins though. I hate them.

Here's another view of the pizza box version:








I'm tellin ya, its a VERY close 2nd choice.


----------



## rance

*A 'Sheet Sled' (for your Truck)*

This was spurred from David's thread in searching for a way to haul plywood in a small truck. I came up with a 'Bed Sled' and kept modifying it. I thought rather than taking over his thread, I'd offer it here.

















Notice the *Grocery Bag corrall *up front.

The 'Z' system in the center is hinged and can be folded up and laid flat. When set up, it sits on top of and locks in place(with a half lap) over the rear support. The rear support sits on top of and locks in place(also with a half lap) with the rear cross beam. The cross beam keeps the 'Z' from sliding out of the back of the truck when you drag race home from the BORG.

*2×4*'s, a piece of *ply*, and some *hinges*.

No plans per-se. *Building procedure*:

Cut the length of the rear cross brace to fit snug side to side at the rear of the bed.
Build the 'Z' rails to a length to fit tight between the front of the bed and the rear cross support. 
Build the rear center support the same height as the 'Z' unit and half lap it to the bottom of the plywood in the 'Z' and half lap on TOP of the rear cross support.

A closer view of the half lap arrangement.








Also notice the addition of a *center support block* to prevent sagging.

You can also see here where a rope can be attached to the 'Z' to keep the sheetgoods from falling out.









*Note*: This was an earlier snapshot before I flipped the 'Z' around. Build it like in the first pic so your groceries will be on the driver's side up front. You want them on the rigid side, not the floppy side of the 'Z'. Also note that *the rope should be tied to the left REAR*, not the left FRONT.

On the way to the lumber yard.









Diassembled.









Stacked for storing in the garage.


----------



## davidmw

rance said:


> *A 'Sheet Sled' (for your Truck)*
> 
> This was spurred from David's thread in searching for a way to haul plywood in a small truck. I came up with a 'Bed Sled' and kept modifying it. I thought rather than taking over his thread, I'd offer it here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the *Grocery Bag corrall *up front.
> 
> The 'Z' system in the center is hinged and can be folded up and laid flat. When set up, it sits on top of and locks in place(with a half lap) over the rear support. The rear support sits on top of and locks in place(also with a half lap) with the rear cross beam. The cross beam keeps the 'Z' from sliding out of the back of the truck when you drag race home from the BORG.
> 
> *2×4*'s, a piece of *ply*, and some *hinges*.
> 
> No plans per-se. *Building procedure*:
> 
> Cut the length of the rear cross brace to fit snug side to side at the rear of the bed.
> Build the 'Z' rails to a length to fit tight between the front of the bed and the rear cross support.
> Build the rear center support the same height as the 'Z' unit and half lap it to the bottom of the plywood in the 'Z' and half lap on TOP of the rear cross support.
> 
> A closer view of the half lap arrangement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also notice the addition of a *center support block* to prevent sagging.
> 
> You can also see here where a rope can be attached to the 'Z' to keep the sheetgoods from falling out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note*: This was an earlier snapshot before I flipped the 'Z' around. Build it like in the first pic so your groceries will be on the driver's side up front. You want them on the rigid side, not the floppy side of the 'Z'. Also note that *the rope should be tied to the left REAR*, not the left FRONT.
> 
> On the way to the lumber yard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diassembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stacked for storing in the garage.


Hmm… looks familiar


----------



## JoeLyddon

rance said:


> *A 'Sheet Sled' (for your Truck)*
> 
> This was spurred from David's thread in searching for a way to haul plywood in a small truck. I came up with a 'Bed Sled' and kept modifying it. I thought rather than taking over his thread, I'd offer it here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the *Grocery Bag corrall *up front.
> 
> The 'Z' system in the center is hinged and can be folded up and laid flat. When set up, it sits on top of and locks in place(with a half lap) over the rear support. The rear support sits on top of and locks in place(also with a half lap) with the rear cross beam. The cross beam keeps the 'Z' from sliding out of the back of the truck when you drag race home from the BORG.
> 
> *2×4*'s, a piece of *ply*, and some *hinges*.
> 
> No plans per-se. *Building procedure*:
> 
> Cut the length of the rear cross brace to fit snug side to side at the rear of the bed.
> Build the 'Z' rails to a length to fit tight between the front of the bed and the rear cross support.
> Build the rear center support the same height as the 'Z' unit and half lap it to the bottom of the plywood in the 'Z' and half lap on TOP of the rear cross support.
> 
> A closer view of the half lap arrangement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also notice the addition of a *center support block* to prevent sagging.
> 
> You can also see here where a rope can be attached to the 'Z' to keep the sheetgoods from falling out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note*: This was an earlier snapshot before I flipped the 'Z' around. Build it like in the first pic so your groceries will be on the driver's side up front. You want them on the rigid side, not the floppy side of the 'Z'. Also note that *the rope should be tied to the left REAR*, not the left FRONT.
> 
> On the way to the lumber yard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diassembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stacked for storing in the garage.


Looks pretty good & clever…

There is something I'd think about doing though…
1. Put a Cross piece across the Open(back) end… to make it more sturdy & to prevent flexing.
2. Extend the Center notched piece all the way to the piece just added & mount to it.
Just seems like it would stop a few Forces from causing trouble…
I'm no engineer… that's just what hit me when 1st looking at it.

You're having FUN with SketchUp! Wish I had the time to really LEARN that program… it's SO strong, it boggles the mind.

Thank you.


----------



## Craig_FL

rance said:


> *A 'Sheet Sled' (for your Truck)*
> 
> This was spurred from David's thread in searching for a way to haul plywood in a small truck. I came up with a 'Bed Sled' and kept modifying it. I thought rather than taking over his thread, I'd offer it here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the *Grocery Bag corrall *up front.
> 
> The 'Z' system in the center is hinged and can be folded up and laid flat. When set up, it sits on top of and locks in place(with a half lap) over the rear support. The rear support sits on top of and locks in place(also with a half lap) with the rear cross beam. The cross beam keeps the 'Z' from sliding out of the back of the truck when you drag race home from the BORG.
> 
> *2×4*'s, a piece of *ply*, and some *hinges*.
> 
> No plans per-se. *Building procedure*:
> 
> Cut the length of the rear cross brace to fit snug side to side at the rear of the bed.
> Build the 'Z' rails to a length to fit tight between the front of the bed and the rear cross support.
> Build the rear center support the same height as the 'Z' unit and half lap it to the bottom of the plywood in the 'Z' and half lap on TOP of the rear cross support.
> 
> A closer view of the half lap arrangement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also notice the addition of a *center support block* to prevent sagging.
> 
> You can also see here where a rope can be attached to the 'Z' to keep the sheetgoods from falling out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note*: This was an earlier snapshot before I flipped the 'Z' around. Build it like in the first pic so your groceries will be on the driver's side up front. You want them on the rigid side, not the floppy side of the 'Z'. Also note that *the rope should be tied to the left REAR*, not the left FRONT.
> 
> On the way to the lumber yard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diassembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stacked for storing in the garage.


I might worry about the weight and wind load on the cantilever section. The only thing preventing uplift on the section of the tongue in the truck is the weight of the wood. Add some wind back there trying to lift it and you could be dragging…If you could lock the diagonal portion of the Z to the front-to-back pieces, maybe with a hinge on one side and a pin of some sort on the other, the wedge fit might be enough vertical restraint.
Great idea and work in sketchup!


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *A 'Sheet Sled' (for your Truck)*
> 
> This was spurred from David's thread in searching for a way to haul plywood in a small truck. I came up with a 'Bed Sled' and kept modifying it. I thought rather than taking over his thread, I'd offer it here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the *Grocery Bag corrall *up front.
> 
> The 'Z' system in the center is hinged and can be folded up and laid flat. When set up, it sits on top of and locks in place(with a half lap) over the rear support. The rear support sits on top of and locks in place(also with a half lap) with the rear cross beam. The cross beam keeps the 'Z' from sliding out of the back of the truck when you drag race home from the BORG.
> 
> *2×4*'s, a piece of *ply*, and some *hinges*.
> 
> No plans per-se. *Building procedure*:
> 
> Cut the length of the rear cross brace to fit snug side to side at the rear of the bed.
> Build the 'Z' rails to a length to fit tight between the front of the bed and the rear cross support.
> Build the rear center support the same height as the 'Z' unit and half lap it to the bottom of the plywood in the 'Z' and half lap on TOP of the rear cross support.
> 
> A closer view of the half lap arrangement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also notice the addition of a *center support block* to prevent sagging.
> 
> You can also see here where a rope can be attached to the 'Z' to keep the sheetgoods from falling out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note*: This was an earlier snapshot before I flipped the 'Z' around. Build it like in the first pic so your groceries will be on the driver's side up front. You want them on the rigid side, not the floppy side of the 'Z'. Also note that *the rope should be tied to the left REAR*, not the left FRONT.
> 
> On the way to the lumber yard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diassembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stacked for storing in the garage.


Thank you for the comments and suggestions. Yes *David*, but with more changes.  *Joe*, if it is built snug, I wouldn't worry about it too much, even on the trip TO the lumber yard. Actually, a single screw from the cross brace into the lefthand 'Z' rail should do it. Or just a small block on the cross brace. I added a pic showing the tailgate to show how the rear center support would really be supported. *Craig*, I meant to include that the center plywood was hinged. I updated the original post. I've added a pic of it all folded up.


----------



## lilredweldingrod

rance said:


> *A 'Sheet Sled' (for your Truck)*
> 
> This was spurred from David's thread in searching for a way to haul plywood in a small truck. I came up with a 'Bed Sled' and kept modifying it. I thought rather than taking over his thread, I'd offer it here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the *Grocery Bag corrall *up front.
> 
> The 'Z' system in the center is hinged and can be folded up and laid flat. When set up, it sits on top of and locks in place(with a half lap) over the rear support. The rear support sits on top of and locks in place(also with a half lap) with the rear cross beam. The cross beam keeps the 'Z' from sliding out of the back of the truck when you drag race home from the BORG.
> 
> *2×4*'s, a piece of *ply*, and some *hinges*.
> 
> No plans per-se. *Building procedure*:
> 
> Cut the length of the rear cross brace to fit snug side to side at the rear of the bed.
> Build the 'Z' rails to a length to fit tight between the front of the bed and the rear cross support.
> Build the rear center support the same height as the 'Z' unit and half lap it to the bottom of the plywood in the 'Z' and half lap on TOP of the rear cross support.
> 
> A closer view of the half lap arrangement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also notice the addition of a *center support block* to prevent sagging.
> 
> You can also see here where a rope can be attached to the 'Z' to keep the sheetgoods from falling out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note*: This was an earlier snapshot before I flipped the 'Z' around. Build it like in the first pic so your groceries will be on the driver's side up front. You want them on the rigid side, not the floppy side of the 'Z'. Also note that *the rope should be tied to the left REAR*, not the left FRONT.
> 
> On the way to the lumber yard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diassembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stacked for storing in the garage.


rance, how about a length of 2" sq. tubing in the hitch receiver and put a T on that?


----------



## craftsman on the lake

rance said:


> *A 'Sheet Sled' (for your Truck)*
> 
> This was spurred from David's thread in searching for a way to haul plywood in a small truck. I came up with a 'Bed Sled' and kept modifying it. I thought rather than taking over his thread, I'd offer it here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the *Grocery Bag corrall *up front.
> 
> The 'Z' system in the center is hinged and can be folded up and laid flat. When set up, it sits on top of and locks in place(with a half lap) over the rear support. The rear support sits on top of and locks in place(also with a half lap) with the rear cross beam. The cross beam keeps the 'Z' from sliding out of the back of the truck when you drag race home from the BORG.
> 
> *2×4*'s, a piece of *ply*, and some *hinges*.
> 
> No plans per-se. *Building procedure*:
> 
> Cut the length of the rear cross brace to fit snug side to side at the rear of the bed.
> Build the 'Z' rails to a length to fit tight between the front of the bed and the rear cross support.
> Build the rear center support the same height as the 'Z' unit and half lap it to the bottom of the plywood in the 'Z' and half lap on TOP of the rear cross support.
> 
> A closer view of the half lap arrangement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also notice the addition of a *center support block* to prevent sagging.
> 
> You can also see here where a rope can be attached to the 'Z' to keep the sheetgoods from falling out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note*: This was an earlier snapshot before I flipped the 'Z' around. Build it like in the first pic so your groceries will be on the driver's side up front. You want them on the rigid side, not the floppy side of the 'Z'. Also note that *the rope should be tied to the left REAR*, not the left FRONT.
> 
> On the way to the lumber yard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diassembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stacked for storing in the garage.


Hmm. I like a project and all that by why not put one edge below the wheel well and let the other edge stick up over the side edge of the truck? and if sagging is an issue then work on some sort of prop for the center.

After that, a bit of stiff plywood sticking out the back isn't much of an issue. And I'm wondering. Is the bed only 60" with the tailgate down? That would indicate a bed length of about 48" which would be unsual. I have a short bed chevy and with the gate down it's 8 ft. The Tacoma has a 5 or 6 ft bed. Depending on model and with gate should be close to 7-8 ft. I also carry a bunch of long bungie cords too.

Is this a project for projects sake?


----------



## Craig_FL

rance said:


> *A 'Sheet Sled' (for your Truck)*
> 
> This was spurred from David's thread in searching for a way to haul plywood in a small truck. I came up with a 'Bed Sled' and kept modifying it. I thought rather than taking over his thread, I'd offer it here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the *Grocery Bag corrall *up front.
> 
> The 'Z' system in the center is hinged and can be folded up and laid flat. When set up, it sits on top of and locks in place(with a half lap) over the rear support. The rear support sits on top of and locks in place(also with a half lap) with the rear cross beam. The cross beam keeps the 'Z' from sliding out of the back of the truck when you drag race home from the BORG.
> 
> *2×4*'s, a piece of *ply*, and some *hinges*.
> 
> No plans per-se. *Building procedure*:
> 
> Cut the length of the rear cross brace to fit snug side to side at the rear of the bed.
> Build the 'Z' rails to a length to fit tight between the front of the bed and the rear cross support.
> Build the rear center support the same height as the 'Z' unit and half lap it to the bottom of the plywood in the 'Z' and half lap on TOP of the rear cross support.
> 
> A closer view of the half lap arrangement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also notice the addition of a *center support block* to prevent sagging.
> 
> You can also see here where a rope can be attached to the 'Z' to keep the sheetgoods from falling out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note*: This was an earlier snapshot before I flipped the 'Z' around. Build it like in the first pic so your groceries will be on the driver's side up front. You want them on the rigid side, not the floppy side of the 'Z'. Also note that *the rope should be tied to the left REAR*, not the left FRONT.
> 
> On the way to the lumber yard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diassembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stacked for storing in the garage.


i didn't mean any disrespect, just wanting to prevent an accident. I need to learn sketch up, you did awesome. I work in Microstation but not in 3D. Structural engineer by trade, so maybe anal? Again, nice looking project and drawings.


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *A 'Sheet Sled' (for your Truck)*
> 
> This was spurred from David's thread in searching for a way to haul plywood in a small truck. I came up with a 'Bed Sled' and kept modifying it. I thought rather than taking over his thread, I'd offer it here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the *Grocery Bag corrall *up front.
> 
> The 'Z' system in the center is hinged and can be folded up and laid flat. When set up, it sits on top of and locks in place(with a half lap) over the rear support. The rear support sits on top of and locks in place(also with a half lap) with the rear cross beam. The cross beam keeps the 'Z' from sliding out of the back of the truck when you drag race home from the BORG.
> 
> *2×4*'s, a piece of *ply*, and some *hinges*.
> 
> No plans per-se. *Building procedure*:
> 
> Cut the length of the rear cross brace to fit snug side to side at the rear of the bed.
> Build the 'Z' rails to a length to fit tight between the front of the bed and the rear cross support.
> Build the rear center support the same height as the 'Z' unit and half lap it to the bottom of the plywood in the 'Z' and half lap on TOP of the rear cross support.
> 
> A closer view of the half lap arrangement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also notice the addition of a *center support block* to prevent sagging.
> 
> You can also see here where a rope can be attached to the 'Z' to keep the sheetgoods from falling out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note*: This was an earlier snapshot before I flipped the 'Z' around. Build it like in the first pic so your groceries will be on the driver's side up front. You want them on the rigid side, not the floppy side of the 'Z'. Also note that *the rope should be tied to the left REAR*, not the left FRONT.
> 
> On the way to the lumber yard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diassembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stacked for storing in the garage.


That would work Rand. C.O.T.L, if you lay it up against the side, the corner by the top of the tail gate can gouge into the sheetgoods. Craig, none taken at all.  I appreciate you pointing the hinge thing out. I'm still finding new ways to use SU. It sure beats drawing on a napkin once you get good at it.


----------



## craftsman on the lake

rance said:


> *A 'Sheet Sled' (for your Truck)*
> 
> This was spurred from David's thread in searching for a way to haul plywood in a small truck. I came up with a 'Bed Sled' and kept modifying it. I thought rather than taking over his thread, I'd offer it here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the *Grocery Bag corrall *up front.
> 
> The 'Z' system in the center is hinged and can be folded up and laid flat. When set up, it sits on top of and locks in place(with a half lap) over the rear support. The rear support sits on top of and locks in place(also with a half lap) with the rear cross beam. The cross beam keeps the 'Z' from sliding out of the back of the truck when you drag race home from the BORG.
> 
> *2×4*'s, a piece of *ply*, and some *hinges*.
> 
> No plans per-se. *Building procedure*:
> 
> Cut the length of the rear cross brace to fit snug side to side at the rear of the bed.
> Build the 'Z' rails to a length to fit tight between the front of the bed and the rear cross support.
> Build the rear center support the same height as the 'Z' unit and half lap it to the bottom of the plywood in the 'Z' and half lap on TOP of the rear cross support.
> 
> A closer view of the half lap arrangement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also notice the addition of a *center support block* to prevent sagging.
> 
> You can also see here where a rope can be attached to the 'Z' to keep the sheetgoods from falling out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note*: This was an earlier snapshot before I flipped the 'Z' around. Build it like in the first pic so your groceries will be on the driver's side up front. You want them on the rigid side, not the floppy side of the 'Z'. Also note that *the rope should be tied to the left REAR*, not the left FRONT.
> 
> On the way to the lumber yard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diassembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stacked for storing in the garage.


"C.O.T.L, if you lay it up against the side, the corner by the top of the tail gate can gouge into the sheetgoods."

Tape the corner, or tie a rag to it, or place an old sheet of plywood underneath it, or if you want to build something simpler make a small rack that is wedge shaped and lets it tilt like I described.

This sort of reminds me about that old story, interesting even though it's not true..

Nasa needed a pen that would work in a weightless environment without the ink backing up. They spent a million dollars inventing a pen that pushed the ink to the tip Hence we have pens that can write upside down today. The Russians solve the problem a different way. They used a pencil.


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *A 'Sheet Sled' (for your Truck)*
> 
> This was spurred from David's thread in searching for a way to haul plywood in a small truck. I came up with a 'Bed Sled' and kept modifying it. I thought rather than taking over his thread, I'd offer it here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the *Grocery Bag corrall *up front.
> 
> The 'Z' system in the center is hinged and can be folded up and laid flat. When set up, it sits on top of and locks in place(with a half lap) over the rear support. The rear support sits on top of and locks in place(also with a half lap) with the rear cross beam. The cross beam keeps the 'Z' from sliding out of the back of the truck when you drag race home from the BORG.
> 
> *2×4*'s, a piece of *ply*, and some *hinges*.
> 
> No plans per-se. *Building procedure*:
> 
> Cut the length of the rear cross brace to fit snug side to side at the rear of the bed.
> Build the 'Z' rails to a length to fit tight between the front of the bed and the rear cross support.
> Build the rear center support the same height as the 'Z' unit and half lap it to the bottom of the plywood in the 'Z' and half lap on TOP of the rear cross support.
> 
> A closer view of the half lap arrangement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also notice the addition of a *center support block* to prevent sagging.
> 
> You can also see here where a rope can be attached to the 'Z' to keep the sheetgoods from falling out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Note*: This was an earlier snapshot before I flipped the 'Z' around. Build it like in the first pic so your groceries will be on the driver's side up front. You want them on the rigid side, not the floppy side of the 'Z'. Also note that *the rope should be tied to the left REAR*, not the left FRONT.
> 
> On the way to the lumber yard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Diassembled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stacked for storing in the garage.


Yes, I tend to over-engineer things. I build it, then I come up with a better/easier/simpler way like you have. But at least I don't have a ziilion hand-planes with more on the way.  Hey, thanks for sharing.


----------



## rance

*Sanding Sheet Holder*

When I make boxes, I typically tape down a full sheet of 150 grit sandpaper to the Table Saw to level the top and bottom of the boxes after they are glued up. The TS is one of the few dead flat surfaces in the shop where I teach. Being as this is a 'portable' situation, this is a pain because of having to tape and untape it each time. I want something to slap down on a bench and be able to quickly grab it to take it with me at the end of the day.

I've seen the ones using clip-board clips but the clips stick up too high for my liking. Here's what I came up with:









I can clip a full sheet of sandpaper to it along the edge with readilly available binder clips, giving me use of almost the entire sheet of paper. The 3/4" MDF board has a 1/2" rabbet all the way around to allow it to sit flat on the workbench without resting on the binder clips as shown here:








In making this Rabbet, I've found that binder clips work best if they are opened up to almost their full capacity. You might gauge your rabbet to make this happen with the size of binder clips you plan on using.

By adding a 3/4" dowel to the center of the bottom, it holds itself in place on any bench with dog holes. 









Gluing some 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom might be a good addition to keep it from spinning. I think this will be just the ticket for my mobile needs.


----------



## longgone

rance said:


> *Sanding Sheet Holder*
> 
> When I make boxes, I typically tape down a full sheet of 150 grit sandpaper to the Table Saw to level the top and bottom of the boxes after they are glued up. The TS is one of the few dead flat surfaces in the shop where I teach. Being as this is a 'portable' situation, this is a pain because of having to tape and untape it each time. I want something to slap down on a bench and be able to quickly grab it to take it with me at the end of the day.
> 
> I've seen the ones using clip-board clips but the clips stick up too high for my liking. Here's what I came up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can clip a full sheet of sandpaper to it along the edge with readilly available binder clips, giving me use of almost the entire sheet of paper. The 3/4" MDF board has a 1/2" rabbet all the way around to allow it to sit flat on the workbench without resting on the binder clips as shown here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In making this Rabbet, I've found that binder clips work best if they are opened up to almost their full capacity. You might gauge your rabbet to make this happen with the size of binder clips you plan on using.
> 
> By adding a 3/4" dowel to the center of the bottom, it holds itself in place on any bench with dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing some 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom might be a good addition to keep it from spinning. I think this will be just the ticket for my mobile needs.


I have a cutout of granite from where a kitchen sink went. I tape sandpaper to this for the same purpose. Works great but it is heavy. I just put it in the corner when not using it.


----------



## JoeLyddon

rance said:


> *Sanding Sheet Holder*
> 
> When I make boxes, I typically tape down a full sheet of 150 grit sandpaper to the Table Saw to level the top and bottom of the boxes after they are glued up. The TS is one of the few dead flat surfaces in the shop where I teach. Being as this is a 'portable' situation, this is a pain because of having to tape and untape it each time. I want something to slap down on a bench and be able to quickly grab it to take it with me at the end of the day.
> 
> I've seen the ones using clip-board clips but the clips stick up too high for my liking. Here's what I came up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can clip a full sheet of sandpaper to it along the edge with readilly available binder clips, giving me use of almost the entire sheet of paper. The 3/4" MDF board has a 1/2" rabbet all the way around to allow it to sit flat on the workbench without resting on the binder clips as shown here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In making this Rabbet, I've found that binder clips work best if they are opened up to almost their full capacity. You might gauge your rabbet to make this happen with the size of binder clips you plan on using.
> 
> By adding a 3/4" dowel to the center of the bottom, it holds itself in place on any bench with dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing some 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom might be a good addition to keep it from spinning. I think this will be just the ticket for my mobile needs.


Clever!

Thank you!


----------



## Jim Jakosh

rance said:


> *Sanding Sheet Holder*
> 
> When I make boxes, I typically tape down a full sheet of 150 grit sandpaper to the Table Saw to level the top and bottom of the boxes after they are glued up. The TS is one of the few dead flat surfaces in the shop where I teach. Being as this is a 'portable' situation, this is a pain because of having to tape and untape it each time. I want something to slap down on a bench and be able to quickly grab it to take it with me at the end of the day.
> 
> I've seen the ones using clip-board clips but the clips stick up too high for my liking. Here's what I came up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can clip a full sheet of sandpaper to it along the edge with readilly available binder clips, giving me use of almost the entire sheet of paper. The 3/4" MDF board has a 1/2" rabbet all the way around to allow it to sit flat on the workbench without resting on the binder clips as shown here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In making this Rabbet, I've found that binder clips work best if they are opened up to almost their full capacity. You might gauge your rabbet to make this happen with the size of binder clips you plan on using.
> 
> By adding a 3/4" dowel to the center of the bottom, it holds itself in place on any bench with dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing some 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom might be a good addition to keep it from spinning. I think this will be just the ticket for my mobile needs.


That is cool. I just use a loose piece of sand paper on one of my cast iron table tops and run the part on it in a figure 8 pattern. I was taught to always do that when lapping steel blocks extremely flat in tool making so I thought it should also work for wood.
For larger parts, I always use the jointer…..............Jim


----------



## EMVarona

rance said:


> *Sanding Sheet Holder*
> 
> When I make boxes, I typically tape down a full sheet of 150 grit sandpaper to the Table Saw to level the top and bottom of the boxes after they are glued up. The TS is one of the few dead flat surfaces in the shop where I teach. Being as this is a 'portable' situation, this is a pain because of having to tape and untape it each time. I want something to slap down on a bench and be able to quickly grab it to take it with me at the end of the day.
> 
> I've seen the ones using clip-board clips but the clips stick up too high for my liking. Here's what I came up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can clip a full sheet of sandpaper to it along the edge with readilly available binder clips, giving me use of almost the entire sheet of paper. The 3/4" MDF board has a 1/2" rabbet all the way around to allow it to sit flat on the workbench without resting on the binder clips as shown here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In making this Rabbet, I've found that binder clips work best if they are opened up to almost their full capacity. You might gauge your rabbet to make this happen with the size of binder clips you plan on using.
> 
> By adding a 3/4" dowel to the center of the bottom, it holds itself in place on any bench with dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing some 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom might be a good addition to keep it from spinning. I think this will be just the ticket for my mobile needs.


Nice idea. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## gfadvm

rance said:


> *Sanding Sheet Holder*
> 
> When I make boxes, I typically tape down a full sheet of 150 grit sandpaper to the Table Saw to level the top and bottom of the boxes after they are glued up. The TS is one of the few dead flat surfaces in the shop where I teach. Being as this is a 'portable' situation, this is a pain because of having to tape and untape it each time. I want something to slap down on a bench and be able to quickly grab it to take it with me at the end of the day.
> 
> I've seen the ones using clip-board clips but the clips stick up too high for my liking. Here's what I came up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can clip a full sheet of sandpaper to it along the edge with readilly available binder clips, giving me use of almost the entire sheet of paper. The 3/4" MDF board has a 1/2" rabbet all the way around to allow it to sit flat on the workbench without resting on the binder clips as shown here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In making this Rabbet, I've found that binder clips work best if they are opened up to almost their full capacity. You might gauge your rabbet to make this happen with the size of binder clips you plan on using.
> 
> By adding a 3/4" dowel to the center of the bottom, it holds itself in place on any bench with dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing some 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom might be a good addition to keep it from spinning. I think this will be just the ticket for my mobile needs.


Rance, Mine is an 18" wide x 4' long sanding belt (100 grit) attached to a piece of 1/4" hardboard with spray adhesive. I like the size as I can get a long smooth stroke and flatten things quickly. Clamped to the bench in use. Hangs on the wall for storage. These are great shop made aids. I stole the idea from the other Andy (the box sculptor). Pretty much everything I know came from this site!!! PS Mine has lasted really well (The belt was a good quality and I use my crepe rubber thingy on it every time I use it). I like your idea but that is a BUNCH of clips. Think I'll stick with the spray adhesive (no pun intended).


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *Sanding Sheet Holder*
> 
> When I make boxes, I typically tape down a full sheet of 150 grit sandpaper to the Table Saw to level the top and bottom of the boxes after they are glued up. The TS is one of the few dead flat surfaces in the shop where I teach. Being as this is a 'portable' situation, this is a pain because of having to tape and untape it each time. I want something to slap down on a bench and be able to quickly grab it to take it with me at the end of the day.
> 
> I've seen the ones using clip-board clips but the clips stick up too high for my liking. Here's what I came up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can clip a full sheet of sandpaper to it along the edge with readilly available binder clips, giving me use of almost the entire sheet of paper. The 3/4" MDF board has a 1/2" rabbet all the way around to allow it to sit flat on the workbench without resting on the binder clips as shown here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In making this Rabbet, I've found that binder clips work best if they are opened up to almost their full capacity. You might gauge your rabbet to make this happen with the size of binder clips you plan on using.
> 
> By adding a 3/4" dowel to the center of the bottom, it holds itself in place on any bench with dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing some 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom might be a good addition to keep it from spinning. I think this will be just the ticket for my mobile needs.


The belt idea is a good one Andy. I might just settle for two 4" or 6" belts side by side. I don't think I need 18" though. Thank you All for sharing your ideas.


----------



## Woodbutcher3

rance said:


> *Sanding Sheet Holder*
> 
> When I make boxes, I typically tape down a full sheet of 150 grit sandpaper to the Table Saw to level the top and bottom of the boxes after they are glued up. The TS is one of the few dead flat surfaces in the shop where I teach. Being as this is a 'portable' situation, this is a pain because of having to tape and untape it each time. I want something to slap down on a bench and be able to quickly grab it to take it with me at the end of the day.
> 
> I've seen the ones using clip-board clips but the clips stick up too high for my liking. Here's what I came up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can clip a full sheet of sandpaper to it along the edge with readilly available binder clips, giving me use of almost the entire sheet of paper. The 3/4" MDF board has a 1/2" rabbet all the way around to allow it to sit flat on the workbench without resting on the binder clips as shown here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In making this Rabbet, I've found that binder clips work best if they are opened up to almost their full capacity. You might gauge your rabbet to make this happen with the size of binder clips you plan on using.
> 
> By adding a 3/4" dowel to the center of the bottom, it holds itself in place on any bench with dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing some 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom might be a good addition to keep it from spinning. I think this will be just the ticket for my mobile needs.


Another clever idea! Always thinking; always sharing; always caring!
Why not just put two dowels on the bottom to keep it from spinning?


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *Sanding Sheet Holder*
> 
> When I make boxes, I typically tape down a full sheet of 150 grit sandpaper to the Table Saw to level the top and bottom of the boxes after they are glued up. The TS is one of the few dead flat surfaces in the shop where I teach. Being as this is a 'portable' situation, this is a pain because of having to tape and untape it each time. I want something to slap down on a bench and be able to quickly grab it to take it with me at the end of the day.
> 
> I've seen the ones using clip-board clips but the clips stick up too high for my liking. Here's what I came up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can clip a full sheet of sandpaper to it along the edge with readilly available binder clips, giving me use of almost the entire sheet of paper. The 3/4" MDF board has a 1/2" rabbet all the way around to allow it to sit flat on the workbench without resting on the binder clips as shown here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In making this Rabbet, I've found that binder clips work best if they are opened up to almost their full capacity. You might gauge your rabbet to make this happen with the size of binder clips you plan on using.
> 
> By adding a 3/4" dowel to the center of the bottom, it holds itself in place on any bench with dog holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gluing some 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom might be a good addition to keep it from spinning. I think this will be just the ticket for my mobile needs.


@Rod - Because dog holes are likely different spacing on different benches. Yeah, I could make it variable.


----------



## rance

*Simple Corner Spline Jig*

Here's my final version that I came up with after doing the over-thought version. I began with one that had an adjustable stop and all that but I gave it away. I like this one the best. When building it, *use only glue*, no metal fasteners. Dowels work if you feel you need them. The bottom plywood is not really needed but I had already built it that way. The next one prob. won't have it. The backer board(bright blue) is just double-stick-taped in place. Square might work better and you could rotate it 3 times before replacement.










Key features:

*Cheap *(I'm talking about the jig, not me. Well, maybe me too.)
*Easy to build*(after you give away the last one)
*Replacable *backer board
Works on *ANY *table saw

I'm mostly done with the days of building a jig to fit only one saw. I don't always work in my own shop so I want something that is not tied to a specific saw. And if the jig gets too chewed up with having different locations cut, just make another one.

... Just keeping it as simple as I can.

*Edit*: The side plywood piece is not really transparent plywood. I used the regular(ie. dumpster diver) kind.


----------



## gfadvm

rance said:


> *Simple Corner Spline Jig*
> 
> Here's my final version that I came up with after doing the over-thought version. I began with one that had an adjustable stop and all that but I gave it away. I like this one the best. When building it, *use only glue*, no metal fasteners. Dowels work if you feel you need them. The bottom plywood is not really needed but I had already built it that way. The next one prob. won't have it. The backer board(bright blue) is just double-stick-taped in place. Square might work better and you could rotate it 3 times before replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Key features:
> 
> *Cheap *(I'm talking about the jig, not me. Well, maybe me too.)
> *Easy to build*(after you give away the last one)
> *Replacable *backer board
> Works on *ANY *table saw
> 
> I'm mostly done with the days of building a jig to fit only one saw. I don't always work in my own shop so I want something that is not tied to a specific saw. And if the jig gets too chewed up with having different locations cut, just make another one.
> 
> ... Just keeping it as simple as I can.
> 
> *Edit*: The side plywood piece is not really transparent plywood. I used the regular(ie. dumpster diver) kind.


Wile E Coyote strikes again!


----------



## fussy

rance said:


> *Simple Corner Spline Jig*
> 
> Here's my final version that I came up with after doing the over-thought version. I began with one that had an adjustable stop and all that but I gave it away. I like this one the best. When building it, *use only glue*, no metal fasteners. Dowels work if you feel you need them. The bottom plywood is not really needed but I had already built it that way. The next one prob. won't have it. The backer board(bright blue) is just double-stick-taped in place. Square might work better and you could rotate it 3 times before replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Key features:
> 
> *Cheap *(I'm talking about the jig, not me. Well, maybe me too.)
> *Easy to build*(after you give away the last one)
> *Replacable *backer board
> Works on *ANY *table saw
> 
> I'm mostly done with the days of building a jig to fit only one saw. I don't always work in my own shop so I want something that is not tied to a specific saw. And if the jig gets too chewed up with having different locations cut, just make another one.
> 
> ... Just keeping it as simple as I can.
> 
> *Edit*: The side plywood piece is not really transparent plywood. I used the regular(ie. dumpster diver) kind.


Rance,

How did you know I needed just exactly this? And you even made it simple enough I can do it. Thanks and stay safe.

Steve


----------



## rance

*Clamp for cutting Dovetails*

I ran across the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking.

The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I'd rather not drill THAT big of holes in it.

I've come up with *an alternate solution *that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whomever's workshop you might visit. This is a real plus for me since I often work in other's shops.

If you *straddle this block across the corner of your bench*, you can achieve the same effect but not have to drill holes in your bench. I also swung the head of the clamps outwards to give *more room for your hands *when holding the chisel.










I drilled a blind *hole for the upper pad *of the clamp to keep them oriented for easier setup. Without these shallow countersinks, the clamps could easily rotate around making the tightening process difficult.










The added slat(shown transparent), spanning the lower part of the bars, corrals the lower part of the clamps. This should make it much easier to put in place until you get the clamps tightened down (and is required once you swivel the clamps outwards).










You'll also note that I've incorporated the more commonly found *bar clamps*. A wide variety of clamps could be used for this though.

Credits: Again, this is not my idea. I just enhanced the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. I am(again) merely standing on the shoulders of others greater than I.


----------



## StumpyNubs

rance said:


> *Clamp for cutting Dovetails*
> 
> I ran across the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking.
> 
> The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I'd rather not drill THAT big of holes in it.
> 
> I've come up with *an alternate solution *that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whomever's workshop you might visit. This is a real plus for me since I often work in other's shops.
> 
> If you *straddle this block across the corner of your bench*, you can achieve the same effect but not have to drill holes in your bench. I also swung the head of the clamps outwards to give *more room for your hands *when holding the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a blind *hole for the upper pad *of the clamp to keep them oriented for easier setup. Without these shallow countersinks, the clamps could easily rotate around making the tightening process difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The added slat(shown transparent), spanning the lower part of the bars, corrals the lower part of the clamps. This should make it much easier to put in place until you get the clamps tightened down (and is required once you swivel the clamps outwards).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll also note that I've incorporated the more commonly found *bar clamps*. A wide variety of clamps could be used for this though.
> 
> Credits: Again, this is not my idea. I just enhanced the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. I am(again) merely standing on the shoulders of others greater than I.


Can I use this idea in my show a couple weeks from now? I'm demonstrating some hand cut dovetails on the tool cabinet and I want to try this out. If it works like it looks like it will, I'll recommend it to the viewers. (I'll give credit to both you and Fine Woodworking)


----------



## gfadvm

rance said:


> *Clamp for cutting Dovetails*
> 
> I ran across the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking.
> 
> The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I'd rather not drill THAT big of holes in it.
> 
> I've come up with *an alternate solution *that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whomever's workshop you might visit. This is a real plus for me since I often work in other's shops.
> 
> If you *straddle this block across the corner of your bench*, you can achieve the same effect but not have to drill holes in your bench. I also swung the head of the clamps outwards to give *more room for your hands *when holding the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a blind *hole for the upper pad *of the clamp to keep them oriented for easier setup. Without these shallow countersinks, the clamps could easily rotate around making the tightening process difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The added slat(shown transparent), spanning the lower part of the bars, corrals the lower part of the clamps. This should make it much easier to put in place until you get the clamps tightened down (and is required once you swivel the clamps outwards).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll also note that I've incorporated the more commonly found *bar clamps*. A wide variety of clamps could be used for this though.
> 
> Credits: Again, this is not my idea. I just enhanced the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. I am(again) merely standing on the shoulders of others greater than I.


Rance, I like that idea. MUCH better than drilling big holes in a beloved bench! Once again, I am in awe of your Sketch Up skills.


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *Clamp for cutting Dovetails*
> 
> I ran across the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking.
> 
> The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I'd rather not drill THAT big of holes in it.
> 
> I've come up with *an alternate solution *that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whomever's workshop you might visit. This is a real plus for me since I often work in other's shops.
> 
> If you *straddle this block across the corner of your bench*, you can achieve the same effect but not have to drill holes in your bench. I also swung the head of the clamps outwards to give *more room for your hands *when holding the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a blind *hole for the upper pad *of the clamp to keep them oriented for easier setup. Without these shallow countersinks, the clamps could easily rotate around making the tightening process difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The added slat(shown transparent), spanning the lower part of the bars, corrals the lower part of the clamps. This should make it much easier to put in place until you get the clamps tightened down (and is required once you swivel the clamps outwards).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll also note that I've incorporated the more commonly found *bar clamps*. A wide variety of clamps could be used for this though.
> 
> Credits: Again, this is not my idea. I just enhanced the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. I am(again) merely standing on the shoulders of others greater than I.


Use to your heart's content Stumpy.  Thanks Andy.


----------



## swirt

rance said:


> *Clamp for cutting Dovetails*
> 
> I ran across the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking.
> 
> The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I'd rather not drill THAT big of holes in it.
> 
> I've come up with *an alternate solution *that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whomever's workshop you might visit. This is a real plus for me since I often work in other's shops.
> 
> If you *straddle this block across the corner of your bench*, you can achieve the same effect but not have to drill holes in your bench. I also swung the head of the clamps outwards to give *more room for your hands *when holding the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a blind *hole for the upper pad *of the clamp to keep them oriented for easier setup. Without these shallow countersinks, the clamps could easily rotate around making the tightening process difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The added slat(shown transparent), spanning the lower part of the bars, corrals the lower part of the clamps. This should make it much easier to put in place until you get the clamps tightened down (and is required once you swivel the clamps outwards).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll also note that I've incorporated the more commonly found *bar clamps*. A wide variety of clamps could be used for this though.
> 
> Credits: Again, this is not my idea. I just enhanced the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. I am(again) merely standing on the shoulders of others greater than I.


Nice work rance.
You know me… always trying to keep things simple…
If you left off the bottom block of wood and flip the clamps upside down, you could achieve the same thing. (I think) 
Flipping the clamps upside down, allows you to get the handles out of your way AND it lets you pivot the clamps inward so the clamp screw would just push against the bottom of the bench, while the clamp end would push down on the block.

It would allow you to shorten up the overhang of the block ends so you'd be less likely to smash into them with your hip/leg/other vital equipment.


----------



## JoeLyddon

rance said:


> *Clamp for cutting Dovetails*
> 
> I ran across the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking.
> 
> The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I'd rather not drill THAT big of holes in it.
> 
> I've come up with *an alternate solution *that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whomever's workshop you might visit. This is a real plus for me since I often work in other's shops.
> 
> If you *straddle this block across the corner of your bench*, you can achieve the same effect but not have to drill holes in your bench. I also swung the head of the clamps outwards to give *more room for your hands *when holding the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a blind *hole for the upper pad *of the clamp to keep them oriented for easier setup. Without these shallow countersinks, the clamps could easily rotate around making the tightening process difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The added slat(shown transparent), spanning the lower part of the bars, corrals the lower part of the clamps. This should make it much easier to put in place until you get the clamps tightened down (and is required once you swivel the clamps outwards).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll also note that I've incorporated the more commonly found *bar clamps*. A wide variety of clamps could be used for this though.
> 
> Credits: Again, this is not my idea. I just enhanced the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. I am(again) merely standing on the shoulders of others greater than I.


*
I'm wondering if you could do the same thing with a couple of these?

*


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *Clamp for cutting Dovetails*
> 
> I ran across the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking.
> 
> The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I'd rather not drill THAT big of holes in it.
> 
> I've come up with *an alternate solution *that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whomever's workshop you might visit. This is a real plus for me since I often work in other's shops.
> 
> If you *straddle this block across the corner of your bench*, you can achieve the same effect but not have to drill holes in your bench. I also swung the head of the clamps outwards to give *more room for your hands *when holding the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a blind *hole for the upper pad *of the clamp to keep them oriented for easier setup. Without these shallow countersinks, the clamps could easily rotate around making the tightening process difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The added slat(shown transparent), spanning the lower part of the bars, corrals the lower part of the clamps. This should make it much easier to put in place until you get the clamps tightened down (and is required once you swivel the clamps outwards).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll also note that I've incorporated the more commonly found *bar clamps*. A wide variety of clamps could be used for this though.
> 
> Credits: Again, this is not my idea. I just enhanced the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. I am(again) merely standing on the shoulders of others greater than I.


Swirt, I think that would work just fine.

Joe, I'm not a big fan of wood screws. In this application, the key is to get a clamp that won't fall off. It keeps from needing 3(or more) hands to align and tighten up the works.


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *Clamp for cutting Dovetails*
> 
> I ran across the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking.
> 
> The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I'd rather not drill THAT big of holes in it.
> 
> I've come up with *an alternate solution *that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whomever's workshop you might visit. This is a real plus for me since I often work in other's shops.
> 
> If you *straddle this block across the corner of your bench*, you can achieve the same effect but not have to drill holes in your bench. I also swung the head of the clamps outwards to give *more room for your hands *when holding the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a blind *hole for the upper pad *of the clamp to keep them oriented for easier setup. Without these shallow countersinks, the clamps could easily rotate around making the tightening process difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The added slat(shown transparent), spanning the lower part of the bars, corrals the lower part of the clamps. This should make it much easier to put in place until you get the clamps tightened down (and is required once you swivel the clamps outwards).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll also note that I've incorporated the more commonly found *bar clamps*. A wide variety of clamps could be used for this though.
> 
> Credits: Again, this is not my idea. I just enhanced the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. I am(again) merely standing on the shoulders of others greater than I.


Swirt, I like your suggestion. Something like this maybe?










The upper block could more easilly be built as follows:


----------



## Brit

rance said:


> *Clamp for cutting Dovetails*
> 
> I ran across the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking.
> 
> The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I'd rather not drill THAT big of holes in it.
> 
> I've come up with *an alternate solution *that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whomever's workshop you might visit. This is a real plus for me since I often work in other's shops.
> 
> If you *straddle this block across the corner of your bench*, you can achieve the same effect but not have to drill holes in your bench. I also swung the head of the clamps outwards to give *more room for your hands *when holding the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a blind *hole for the upper pad *of the clamp to keep them oriented for easier setup. Without these shallow countersinks, the clamps could easily rotate around making the tightening process difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The added slat(shown transparent), spanning the lower part of the bars, corrals the lower part of the clamps. This should make it much easier to put in place until you get the clamps tightened down (and is required once you swivel the clamps outwards).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll also note that I've incorporated the more commonly found *bar clamps*. A wide variety of clamps could be used for this though.
> 
> Credits: Again, this is not my idea. I just enhanced the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. I am(again) merely standing on the shoulders of others greater than I.


Great idea Rance, or at least your adaption or someone else's idea. One for my favourites. Thanks for posting.


----------



## Brit

rance said:


> *Clamp for cutting Dovetails*
> 
> I ran across the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking.
> 
> The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I'd rather not drill THAT big of holes in it.
> 
> I've come up with *an alternate solution *that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whomever's workshop you might visit. This is a real plus for me since I often work in other's shops.
> 
> If you *straddle this block across the corner of your bench*, you can achieve the same effect but not have to drill holes in your bench. I also swung the head of the clamps outwards to give *more room for your hands *when holding the chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drilled a blind *hole for the upper pad *of the clamp to keep them oriented for easier setup. Without these shallow countersinks, the clamps could easily rotate around making the tightening process difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The added slat(shown transparent), spanning the lower part of the bars, corrals the lower part of the clamps. This should make it much easier to put in place until you get the clamps tightened down (and is required once you swivel the clamps outwards).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll also note that I've incorporated the more commonly found *bar clamps*. A wide variety of clamps could be used for this though.
> 
> Credits: Again, this is not my idea. I just enhanced the "*Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails*" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. I am(again) merely standing on the shoulders of others greater than I.


In fact using Swirts idea, you could mount it on the front of the bench instead of using the corner of the bench. Ideally, you'd want the workpiece positioned over a leg with the clamps either side, so the mallet force is directed down the leg.


----------



## rance

*Dovetails ...with Curves*

I got my weekly(or is it daily) email from Fine Woodworking(FWW) and they had an advertisement for the beginning of a *Dovetail Techniques *series by Stephen Hammer on several kinds of dovetails. I watched the preview and was so fascinated with the *curved dovetail* that I had to mock it up in SketchUp.










A beautiful piece of art. They gave just a glimpse of him making them in the teaser. Just enough that I was able to draw it out. Some views of the *Pin board*:



















And the *Tail board*:



















By breaking these down to their basic shapes, and with the use of some templates, and hand(and power) tools, they should not be that difficult to build for someone who has successfully cut dovetails by hand before.

Here's one more picture that might give you a better idea of how these work:


----------



## JoeLyddon

rance said:


> *Dovetails ...with Curves*
> 
> I got my weekly(or is it daily) email from Fine Woodworking(FWW) and they had an advertisement for the beginning of a *Dovetail Techniques *series by Stephen Hammer on several kinds of dovetails. I watched the preview and was so fascinated with the *curved dovetail* that I had to mock it up in SketchUp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A beautiful piece of art. They gave just a glimpse of him making them in the teaser. Just enough that I was able to draw it out. Some views of the *Pin board*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the *Tail board*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By breaking these down to their basic shapes, and with the use of some templates, and hand(and power) tools, they should not be that difficult to build for someone who has successfully cut dovetails by hand before.
> 
> Here's one more picture that might give you a better idea of how these work:


COOL DT's!

COOL Sketchup work!


----------



## gfadvm

rance said:


> *Dovetails ...with Curves*
> 
> I got my weekly(or is it daily) email from Fine Woodworking(FWW) and they had an advertisement for the beginning of a *Dovetail Techniques *series by Stephen Hammer on several kinds of dovetails. I watched the preview and was so fascinated with the *curved dovetail* that I had to mock it up in SketchUp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A beautiful piece of art. They gave just a glimpse of him making them in the teaser. Just enough that I was able to draw it out. Some views of the *Pin board*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the *Tail board*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By breaking these down to their basic shapes, and with the use of some templates, and hand(and power) tools, they should not be that difficult to build for someone who has successfully cut dovetails by hand before.
> 
> Here's one more picture that might give you a better idea of how these work:


Rance, I'm getting a headache just thinking about those! Be sure and post yours as soon as you finish them.


----------



## Brit

rance said:


> *Dovetails ...with Curves*
> 
> I got my weekly(or is it daily) email from Fine Woodworking(FWW) and they had an advertisement for the beginning of a *Dovetail Techniques *series by Stephen Hammer on several kinds of dovetails. I watched the preview and was so fascinated with the *curved dovetail* that I had to mock it up in SketchUp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A beautiful piece of art. They gave just a glimpse of him making them in the teaser. Just enough that I was able to draw it out. Some views of the *Pin board*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the *Tail board*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By breaking these down to their basic shapes, and with the use of some templates, and hand(and power) tools, they should not be that difficult to build for someone who has successfully cut dovetails by hand before.
> 
> Here's one more picture that might give you a better idea of how these work:


Nice!


----------



## rance

*X Puzzle*

Someone came up with this puzzle a long time ago. I think it was Moses, or maybe Methusula. I first saw it Here on LJ.










I eventually drew it out in SU. So many folks have asked for the drawing I thought I'd post it here. It should be self-explanatory.










PS: Obviously you'll need to make two of these pieces.


----------



## Woodbutcher3

rance said:


> *X Puzzle*
> 
> Someone came up with this puzzle a long time ago. I think it was Moses, or maybe Methusula. I first saw it Here on LJ.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I eventually drew it out in SU. So many folks have asked for the drawing I thought I'd post it here. It should be self-explanatory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: Obviously you'll need to make two of these pieces.


This is a great puzzle for kids to make or play with.

Rance has taught this several times at WC in the woodworking for Kids (WW4K) class.


----------



## rance

*Illusionist's Heart Pendant*

Seeing that many folks seem to be interested in the construction of the Heart Pendant that Daftehh built, I asked him if he was planning on posting further instruction. He said he wasn't, and gave me permission to step in.

Many of you know by now that SketchUp is my Go-To tool for design. I truely use it as one of my woodworking 'tools' to determine dimensions, angles, etc. By drawing the heart out as two individual halves, I began with the basic 'Pill' shape. I experimented with the location of the diagonal separation line, but not a lot. It is actually pretty easy to locate it. You just have to make sure it is symetrical.










Another view shows it twisted to its heart shape. As for grain direction, you can choose your own to achieve your own desired look. I've also included one option of type and placement of hook for attachment to fit my needs.










I will not be providing actual dimensions for this blog as they are sorta irrelevant. I imagine what most folks have the most difficulty with is the connection between the two halves. What I want to convey here primarilly is how this pendant works and how to design your own.

For my purposes, there is no reason for me to draw this to the point of actual look. Given that, I can draw a blocked style of components.










Looking at the half(with the hook), lying it on its back and looking directly at the edge where it joins its mirrored half, you see a mere rectangle.










Locate a crosshair in the exact center of that surface. This is where you will install your swivel of choice. From a view with one face removed, you can get a better idea of the construction.










Be sure to not drill all the way through to the 'show' edge. I do plan on actually building one of these. On mine, I plan on using micro Rare Earth magnets to keep it in place.










So what are *the real 'tricks'*. Start with the Pill, separate it with the diagonal line. Then simply center the pivot point in the exact center of the face that meets its mating piece. Lastly, the edges can be rounded and shaped as you see fit.


----------



## mojapitt

rance said:


> *Illusionist's Heart Pendant*
> 
> Seeing that many folks seem to be interested in the construction of the Heart Pendant that Daftehh built, I asked him if he was planning on posting further instruction. He said he wasn't, and gave me permission to step in.
> 
> Many of you know by now that SketchUp is my Go-To tool for design. I truely use it as one of my woodworking 'tools' to determine dimensions, angles, etc. By drawing the heart out as two individual halves, I began with the basic 'Pill' shape. I experimented with the location of the diagonal separation line, but not a lot. It is actually pretty easy to locate it. You just have to make sure it is symetrical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view shows it twisted to its heart shape. As for grain direction, you can choose your own to achieve your own desired look. I've also included one option of type and placement of hook for attachment to fit my needs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will not be providing actual dimensions for this blog as they are sorta irrelevant. I imagine what most folks have the most difficulty with is the connection between the two halves. What I want to convey here primarilly is how this pendant works and how to design your own.
> 
> For my purposes, there is no reason for me to draw this to the point of actual look. Given that, I can draw a blocked style of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the half(with the hook), lying it on its back and looking directly at the edge where it joins its mirrored half, you see a mere rectangle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Locate a crosshair in the exact center of that surface. This is where you will install your swivel of choice. From a view with one face removed, you can get a better idea of the construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be sure to not drill all the way through to the 'show' edge. I do plan on actually building one of these. On mine, I plan on using micro Rare Earth magnets to keep it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what are *the real 'tricks'*. Start with the Pill, separate it with the diagonal line. Then simply center the pivot point in the exact center of the face that meets its mating piece. Lastly, the edges can be rounded and shaped as you see fit.


Got me thinking. May have to try this.


----------



## ShopTinker

rance said:


> *Illusionist's Heart Pendant*
> 
> Seeing that many folks seem to be interested in the construction of the Heart Pendant that Daftehh built, I asked him if he was planning on posting further instruction. He said he wasn't, and gave me permission to step in.
> 
> Many of you know by now that SketchUp is my Go-To tool for design. I truely use it as one of my woodworking 'tools' to determine dimensions, angles, etc. By drawing the heart out as two individual halves, I began with the basic 'Pill' shape. I experimented with the location of the diagonal separation line, but not a lot. It is actually pretty easy to locate it. You just have to make sure it is symetrical.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another view shows it twisted to its heart shape. As for grain direction, you can choose your own to achieve your own desired look. I've also included one option of type and placement of hook for attachment to fit my needs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will not be providing actual dimensions for this blog as they are sorta irrelevant. I imagine what most folks have the most difficulty with is the connection between the two halves. What I want to convey here primarilly is how this pendant works and how to design your own.
> 
> For my purposes, there is no reason for me to draw this to the point of actual look. Given that, I can draw a blocked style of components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the half(with the hook), lying it on its back and looking directly at the edge where it joins its mirrored half, you see a mere rectangle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Locate a crosshair in the exact center of that surface. This is where you will install your swivel of choice. From a view with one face removed, you can get a better idea of the construction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be sure to not drill all the way through to the 'show' edge. I do plan on actually building one of these. On mine, I plan on using micro Rare Earth magnets to keep it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So what are *the real 'tricks'*. Start with the Pill, separate it with the diagonal line. Then simply center the pivot point in the exact center of the face that meets its mating piece. Lastly, the edges can be rounded and shaped as you see fit.


Locating the pivot point seemed to be the hard part of this project. It seems very obvious now that you've told us how to do it. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## rance

*How to design a Gazebo Bird House*

A fellow LJ member(Belg1960) was asking about designing an Octagon Birdhouse a while back. He recently contacted me and asked if I would show him how I would do it in SketchUp. I thought I would make this public for all to see. The method that Jim Jakosh provided was certainly a good one. Every woodworker would benefit from understanding math as much as Jim does. Me, I tend to lean more on SU to do my math.

The SU method I am presenting here is but one SU approach. There are other ways to do this in SU, but this is the first one and the easiest one that came to mind for me.

Let me say that my purpose with this scenario is to use SU to tell ME the dimensions and angles rather than me having to tell SU those values. This is most often the case with me when using SU during the design.

The constraints given to me to dimension the Gazebo Bird House(GBH) were as follows:
8" diameter base 
7" base height 
10" diameter roof line 
6.7" roof height(derrived from Jim's scale) 
1" hole at the top(for finial placement) 
(arbitrarilly chosen on my part)

And YES, he requested a Hexagon, not an Octagon. 

I begin by drawing a side view profile-triangle of the roof using the given constraints(I rounded the 6.7" to 6.75"):








Note the 1/2" line on the bottom left corner. This represents the radius from the center point to the inner edge on the top where the finial will go. I also make all of this a 'Component' so it doesn't STICK to the other parts I'll be drawing.

I then lay up the profile of a 3/4" board profile where it would lie against the roof profile-triangle:









Next, I rotate the bottom end out to the bottom edge of the roof profile-triangle:
SU tells ME that this is 28.4 degrees. Incidently, this is the cut angle for the top & bottom of the roof panels. 








Note how it intersects with the triangle, thus keeping space for the hole in the center and not exceeding the roof diameter. It is not just a parallel fit to the triangle.

Now I convert this roof-panel profile into an actual 3D board by flattening the top & bottom, and pushing/pulling the front and rear faces to give it depth. The goal here is to extend it in both directions further than it needs to be. 5" ought to do it. These will be trimmed off in a later step. 








I've shown it transparent so you can see how it intersects the profile-triangle. The panel itself is also made into a 'Component'.

Next, I rotate to an arial view to do the real magic. I will be copying(in a circular fashion) that panel 5 more times at 60 degrees(360/6 sides[a hexagon] = 60 degrees). Note the point of rotation around the tip of that line sticking out to the left of the profile-triangle. 









And here's what you end up with:








It actually looks to be a jumbled mess doesn't it.

Lets come down a bit from the arial view and hide 4 of the panels. I also added a wooden color to the panel we will be working on:








By the way, since these panels are 'Components', then any changes I do to one, gets replicated on ALL the other panels.

Now comes the math part, but with no math at all. I draw an intersecting line where the two panels cross, from the inside intersection to the outer intersection. This is done on the top AND bottom beveled edges of the panel. 









I now edit the wooden panel itself to connect the upper intersecting line to the lower. And then remove the excess just as if I had cut it off with a saw. I have no idea at this point what that bevel angle is that I just created. Later I'll just measure it using SU. And here's what I'm left with:








Note that I also hid that one remaining blue panel to help eliminate some confusion to the non-SU users.

I now repeat the beveling for the other edge using the adjacent panel on the opposite edge:








But what am I looking at? Because these panels are 'Components', any change I do to one, happens to them ALL. Even if I have them hidden.

I can simply copy that one beveled face(now shown in wood veneer for easy identification):









Then paste it onto my all-wood panel:








BTW, I do this using one of the most unused, but most useful features of SU, 'Paste In Place'.

I finish up the panel by simply removing the excess on that other edge of the panel. And what I'm left with is a perfectly formed panel. In fact, if I unhide all the panels, they are all perfectly formed, and with precisely correct beveled edges:









So now, how do we cut these panels? More accurately, how do we measure the bevels? I simply make a copy of one of the panels, lay it down on a flat surface and measure the angles using the Protractor Tool in SU. We already know that the top and bottom bevels are 28.4 degrees:









The side angles for the panels are 15.3 degrees:









And the bevels themselves are 26.1 degrees:









And all the other pertinent dimensions:









OK, now for the base. We are looking for a 8" diameter base at a height of 7". So we do a similar procedure, but it is easier because we don't have to tilt the panels. I won't bore you with the details of this, other than the differences. For the base, I build it extra long, then raise it up into the roof until the top of the inner edge touches the roof panel. I then draw lines that can be used to bevel off the side panels. It is easier to do when having just one roof panel, and one side panel visible:









And with most panels in place:









I drew a 7" vertical line from the base of the roof, downward. This gave me a general idea of how tall to make the actual sides. They need to stick down below the lower roof line 7", but they are actually taller since they go up into the roof where they attach. 









Well that's about it. Any comments, criticisms, and suggestions are welcome. I hope this gives you some new ideas on how to use SU in your future projects.

Oh, and that bevel angle for the tops of the side panels, well that would be 90-(the bottom angle of the roof panel: 28.4 deg.), ie. 61.6 degrees, right? And the side bevels of any hexagonal box are 60 degrees.

And with the finish applied:


----------



## djwong

rance said:


> *How to design a Gazebo Bird House*
> 
> A fellow LJ member(Belg1960) was asking about designing an Octagon Birdhouse a while back. He recently contacted me and asked if I would show him how I would do it in SketchUp. I thought I would make this public for all to see. The method that Jim Jakosh provided was certainly a good one. Every woodworker would benefit from understanding math as much as Jim does. Me, I tend to lean more on SU to do my math.
> 
> The SU method I am presenting here is but one SU approach. There are other ways to do this in SU, but this is the first one and the easiest one that came to mind for me.
> 
> Let me say that my purpose with this scenario is to use SU to tell ME the dimensions and angles rather than me having to tell SU those values. This is most often the case with me when using SU during the design.
> 
> The constraints given to me to dimension the Gazebo Bird House(GBH) were as follows:
> 8" diameter base
> 7" base height
> 10" diameter roof line
> 6.7" roof height(derrived from Jim's scale)
> 1" hole at the top(for finial placement)
> (arbitrarilly chosen on my part)
> 
> And YES, he requested a Hexagon, not an Octagon.
> 
> I begin by drawing a side view profile-triangle of the roof using the given constraints(I rounded the 6.7" to 6.75"):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the 1/2" line on the bottom left corner. This represents the radius from the center point to the inner edge on the top where the finial will go. I also make all of this a 'Component' so it doesn't STICK to the other parts I'll be drawing.
> 
> I then lay up the profile of a 3/4" board profile where it would lie against the roof profile-triangle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I rotate the bottom end out to the bottom edge of the roof profile-triangle:
> SU tells ME that this is 28.4 degrees. Incidently, this is the cut angle for the top & bottom of the roof panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note how it intersects with the triangle, thus keeping space for the hole in the center and not exceeding the roof diameter. It is not just a parallel fit to the triangle.
> 
> Now I convert this roof-panel profile into an actual 3D board by flattening the top & bottom, and pushing/pulling the front and rear faces to give it depth. The goal here is to extend it in both directions further than it needs to be. 5" ought to do it. These will be trimmed off in a later step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've shown it transparent so you can see how it intersects the profile-triangle. The panel itself is also made into a 'Component'.
> 
> Next, I rotate to an arial view to do the real magic. I will be copying(in a circular fashion) that panel 5 more times at 60 degrees(360/6 sides[a hexagon] = 60 degrees). Note the point of rotation around the tip of that line sticking out to the left of the profile-triangle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what you end up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It actually looks to be a jumbled mess doesn't it.
> 
> Lets come down a bit from the arial view and hide 4 of the panels. I also added a wooden color to the panel we will be working on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, since these panels are 'Components', then any changes I do to one, gets replicated on ALL the other panels.
> 
> Now comes the math part, but with no math at all. I draw an intersecting line where the two panels cross, from the inside intersection to the outer intersection. This is done on the top AND bottom beveled edges of the panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now edit the wooden panel itself to connect the upper intersecting line to the lower. And then remove the excess just as if I had cut it off with a saw. I have no idea at this point what that bevel angle is that I just created. Later I'll just measure it using SU. And here's what I'm left with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I also hid that one remaining blue panel to help eliminate some confusion to the non-SU users.
> 
> I now repeat the beveling for the other edge using the adjacent panel on the opposite edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what am I looking at? Because these panels are 'Components', any change I do to one, happens to them ALL. Even if I have them hidden.
> 
> I can simply copy that one beveled face(now shown in wood veneer for easy identification):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then paste it onto my all-wood panel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I do this using one of the most unused, but most useful features of SU, 'Paste In Place'.
> 
> I finish up the panel by simply removing the excess on that other edge of the panel. And what I'm left with is a perfectly formed panel. In fact, if I unhide all the panels, they are all perfectly formed, and with precisely correct beveled edges:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now, how do we cut these panels? More accurately, how do we measure the bevels? I simply make a copy of one of the panels, lay it down on a flat surface and measure the angles using the Protractor Tool in SU. We already know that the top and bottom bevels are 28.4 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side angles for the panels are 15.3 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bevels themselves are 26.1 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the other pertinent dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, now for the base. We are looking for a 8" diameter base at a height of 7". So we do a similar procedure, but it is easier because we don't have to tilt the panels. I won't bore you with the details of this, other than the differences. For the base, I build it extra long, then raise it up into the roof until the top of the inner edge touches the roof panel. I then draw lines that can be used to bevel off the side panels. It is easier to do when having just one roof panel, and one side panel visible:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with most panels in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drew a 7" vertical line from the base of the roof, downward. This gave me a general idea of how tall to make the actual sides. They need to stick down below the lower roof line 7", but they are actually taller since they go up into the roof where they attach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's about it. Any comments, criticisms, and suggestions are welcome. I hope this gives you some new ideas on how to use SU in your future projects.
> 
> Oh, and that bevel angle for the tops of the side panels, well that would be 90-(the bottom angle of the roof panel: 28.4 deg.), ie. 61.6 degrees, right? And the side bevels of any hexagonal box are 60 degrees.
> 
> And with the finish applied:


Really great tutorial. Thanks for posting. I will have to try this soon to see if I can duplicate your results.

I just discovered your design series. Many thought provoking designs.


----------



## Belg1960

rance said:


> *How to design a Gazebo Bird House*
> 
> A fellow LJ member(Belg1960) was asking about designing an Octagon Birdhouse a while back. He recently contacted me and asked if I would show him how I would do it in SketchUp. I thought I would make this public for all to see. The method that Jim Jakosh provided was certainly a good one. Every woodworker would benefit from understanding math as much as Jim does. Me, I tend to lean more on SU to do my math.
> 
> The SU method I am presenting here is but one SU approach. There are other ways to do this in SU, but this is the first one and the easiest one that came to mind for me.
> 
> Let me say that my purpose with this scenario is to use SU to tell ME the dimensions and angles rather than me having to tell SU those values. This is most often the case with me when using SU during the design.
> 
> The constraints given to me to dimension the Gazebo Bird House(GBH) were as follows:
> 8" diameter base
> 7" base height
> 10" diameter roof line
> 6.7" roof height(derrived from Jim's scale)
> 1" hole at the top(for finial placement)
> (arbitrarilly chosen on my part)
> 
> And YES, he requested a Hexagon, not an Octagon.
> 
> I begin by drawing a side view profile-triangle of the roof using the given constraints(I rounded the 6.7" to 6.75"):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the 1/2" line on the bottom left corner. This represents the radius from the center point to the inner edge on the top where the finial will go. I also make all of this a 'Component' so it doesn't STICK to the other parts I'll be drawing.
> 
> I then lay up the profile of a 3/4" board profile where it would lie against the roof profile-triangle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I rotate the bottom end out to the bottom edge of the roof profile-triangle:
> SU tells ME that this is 28.4 degrees. Incidently, this is the cut angle for the top & bottom of the roof panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note how it intersects with the triangle, thus keeping space for the hole in the center and not exceeding the roof diameter. It is not just a parallel fit to the triangle.
> 
> Now I convert this roof-panel profile into an actual 3D board by flattening the top & bottom, and pushing/pulling the front and rear faces to give it depth. The goal here is to extend it in both directions further than it needs to be. 5" ought to do it. These will be trimmed off in a later step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've shown it transparent so you can see how it intersects the profile-triangle. The panel itself is also made into a 'Component'.
> 
> Next, I rotate to an arial view to do the real magic. I will be copying(in a circular fashion) that panel 5 more times at 60 degrees(360/6 sides[a hexagon] = 60 degrees). Note the point of rotation around the tip of that line sticking out to the left of the profile-triangle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what you end up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It actually looks to be a jumbled mess doesn't it.
> 
> Lets come down a bit from the arial view and hide 4 of the panels. I also added a wooden color to the panel we will be working on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, since these panels are 'Components', then any changes I do to one, gets replicated on ALL the other panels.
> 
> Now comes the math part, but with no math at all. I draw an intersecting line where the two panels cross, from the inside intersection to the outer intersection. This is done on the top AND bottom beveled edges of the panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now edit the wooden panel itself to connect the upper intersecting line to the lower. And then remove the excess just as if I had cut it off with a saw. I have no idea at this point what that bevel angle is that I just created. Later I'll just measure it using SU. And here's what I'm left with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I also hid that one remaining blue panel to help eliminate some confusion to the non-SU users.
> 
> I now repeat the beveling for the other edge using the adjacent panel on the opposite edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what am I looking at? Because these panels are 'Components', any change I do to one, happens to them ALL. Even if I have them hidden.
> 
> I can simply copy that one beveled face(now shown in wood veneer for easy identification):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then paste it onto my all-wood panel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I do this using one of the most unused, but most useful features of SU, 'Paste In Place'.
> 
> I finish up the panel by simply removing the excess on that other edge of the panel. And what I'm left with is a perfectly formed panel. In fact, if I unhide all the panels, they are all perfectly formed, and with precisely correct beveled edges:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now, how do we cut these panels? More accurately, how do we measure the bevels? I simply make a copy of one of the panels, lay it down on a flat surface and measure the angles using the Protractor Tool in SU. We already know that the top and bottom bevels are 28.4 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side angles for the panels are 15.3 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bevels themselves are 26.1 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the other pertinent dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, now for the base. We are looking for a 8" diameter base at a height of 7". So we do a similar procedure, but it is easier because we don't have to tilt the panels. I won't bore you with the details of this, other than the differences. For the base, I build it extra long, then raise it up into the roof until the top of the inner edge touches the roof panel. I then draw lines that can be used to bevel off the side panels. It is easier to do when having just one roof panel, and one side panel visible:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with most panels in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drew a 7" vertical line from the base of the roof, downward. This gave me a general idea of how tall to make the actual sides. They need to stick down below the lower roof line 7", but they are actually taller since they go up into the roof where they attach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's about it. Any comments, criticisms, and suggestions are welcome. I hope this gives you some new ideas on how to use SU in your future projects.
> 
> Oh, and that bevel angle for the tops of the side panels, well that would be 90-(the bottom angle of the roof panel: 28.4 deg.), ie. 61.6 degrees, right? And the side bevels of any hexagonal box are 60 degrees.
> 
> And with the finish applied:












Rance, the overall work looks absolutely fantastic. Now forgive the nieve' question but could I change the dimensions to this in the future? The only other SU project I was involved with was in the SU library and this was made available to me so I could make the changes needed.
I have one question about the 8 5/64" dimension in the attached drawing, is that from long point to long point? 
Would it be possible to add a jig to the blog to cut the angled pieces for the roof panels on the tablesaw?
Lastly how about putting the cherry on top with the cap block and a finial. Easy? LOL


----------



## gfadvm

rance said:


> *How to design a Gazebo Bird House*
> 
> A fellow LJ member(Belg1960) was asking about designing an Octagon Birdhouse a while back. He recently contacted me and asked if I would show him how I would do it in SketchUp. I thought I would make this public for all to see. The method that Jim Jakosh provided was certainly a good one. Every woodworker would benefit from understanding math as much as Jim does. Me, I tend to lean more on SU to do my math.
> 
> The SU method I am presenting here is but one SU approach. There are other ways to do this in SU, but this is the first one and the easiest one that came to mind for me.
> 
> Let me say that my purpose with this scenario is to use SU to tell ME the dimensions and angles rather than me having to tell SU those values. This is most often the case with me when using SU during the design.
> 
> The constraints given to me to dimension the Gazebo Bird House(GBH) were as follows:
> 8" diameter base
> 7" base height
> 10" diameter roof line
> 6.7" roof height(derrived from Jim's scale)
> 1" hole at the top(for finial placement)
> (arbitrarilly chosen on my part)
> 
> And YES, he requested a Hexagon, not an Octagon.
> 
> I begin by drawing a side view profile-triangle of the roof using the given constraints(I rounded the 6.7" to 6.75"):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the 1/2" line on the bottom left corner. This represents the radius from the center point to the inner edge on the top where the finial will go. I also make all of this a 'Component' so it doesn't STICK to the other parts I'll be drawing.
> 
> I then lay up the profile of a 3/4" board profile where it would lie against the roof profile-triangle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I rotate the bottom end out to the bottom edge of the roof profile-triangle:
> SU tells ME that this is 28.4 degrees. Incidently, this is the cut angle for the top & bottom of the roof panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note how it intersects with the triangle, thus keeping space for the hole in the center and not exceeding the roof diameter. It is not just a parallel fit to the triangle.
> 
> Now I convert this roof-panel profile into an actual 3D board by flattening the top & bottom, and pushing/pulling the front and rear faces to give it depth. The goal here is to extend it in both directions further than it needs to be. 5" ought to do it. These will be trimmed off in a later step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've shown it transparent so you can see how it intersects the profile-triangle. The panel itself is also made into a 'Component'.
> 
> Next, I rotate to an arial view to do the real magic. I will be copying(in a circular fashion) that panel 5 more times at 60 degrees(360/6 sides[a hexagon] = 60 degrees). Note the point of rotation around the tip of that line sticking out to the left of the profile-triangle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what you end up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It actually looks to be a jumbled mess doesn't it.
> 
> Lets come down a bit from the arial view and hide 4 of the panels. I also added a wooden color to the panel we will be working on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, since these panels are 'Components', then any changes I do to one, gets replicated on ALL the other panels.
> 
> Now comes the math part, but with no math at all. I draw an intersecting line where the two panels cross, from the inside intersection to the outer intersection. This is done on the top AND bottom beveled edges of the panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now edit the wooden panel itself to connect the upper intersecting line to the lower. And then remove the excess just as if I had cut it off with a saw. I have no idea at this point what that bevel angle is that I just created. Later I'll just measure it using SU. And here's what I'm left with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I also hid that one remaining blue panel to help eliminate some confusion to the non-SU users.
> 
> I now repeat the beveling for the other edge using the adjacent panel on the opposite edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what am I looking at? Because these panels are 'Components', any change I do to one, happens to them ALL. Even if I have them hidden.
> 
> I can simply copy that one beveled face(now shown in wood veneer for easy identification):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then paste it onto my all-wood panel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I do this using one of the most unused, but most useful features of SU, 'Paste In Place'.
> 
> I finish up the panel by simply removing the excess on that other edge of the panel. And what I'm left with is a perfectly formed panel. In fact, if I unhide all the panels, they are all perfectly formed, and with precisely correct beveled edges:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now, how do we cut these panels? More accurately, how do we measure the bevels? I simply make a copy of one of the panels, lay it down on a flat surface and measure the angles using the Protractor Tool in SU. We already know that the top and bottom bevels are 28.4 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side angles for the panels are 15.3 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bevels themselves are 26.1 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the other pertinent dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, now for the base. We are looking for a 8" diameter base at a height of 7". So we do a similar procedure, but it is easier because we don't have to tilt the panels. I won't bore you with the details of this, other than the differences. For the base, I build it extra long, then raise it up into the roof until the top of the inner edge touches the roof panel. I then draw lines that can be used to bevel off the side panels. It is easier to do when having just one roof panel, and one side panel visible:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with most panels in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drew a 7" vertical line from the base of the roof, downward. This gave me a general idea of how tall to make the actual sides. They need to stick down below the lower roof line 7", but they are actually taller since they go up into the roof where they attach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's about it. Any comments, criticisms, and suggestions are welcome. I hope this gives you some new ideas on how to use SU in your future projects.
> 
> Oh, and that bevel angle for the tops of the side panels, well that would be 90-(the bottom angle of the roof panel: 28.4 deg.), ie. 61.6 degrees, right? And the side bevels of any hexagonal box are 60 degrees.
> 
> And with the finish applied:


Thanks a lot Rance. Now I've got a major headache!!! I don't think my brain is wired for this kind of stuff. It took me a long time to figure out that I needed to cut 2 45s to make a mitered corner. OK with you if I just saw my birdhouse from a log with the bandsaw and forego all the math?


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *How to design a Gazebo Bird House*
> 
> A fellow LJ member(Belg1960) was asking about designing an Octagon Birdhouse a while back. He recently contacted me and asked if I would show him how I would do it in SketchUp. I thought I would make this public for all to see. The method that Jim Jakosh provided was certainly a good one. Every woodworker would benefit from understanding math as much as Jim does. Me, I tend to lean more on SU to do my math.
> 
> The SU method I am presenting here is but one SU approach. There are other ways to do this in SU, but this is the first one and the easiest one that came to mind for me.
> 
> Let me say that my purpose with this scenario is to use SU to tell ME the dimensions and angles rather than me having to tell SU those values. This is most often the case with me when using SU during the design.
> 
> The constraints given to me to dimension the Gazebo Bird House(GBH) were as follows:
> 8" diameter base
> 7" base height
> 10" diameter roof line
> 6.7" roof height(derrived from Jim's scale)
> 1" hole at the top(for finial placement)
> (arbitrarilly chosen on my part)
> 
> And YES, he requested a Hexagon, not an Octagon.
> 
> I begin by drawing a side view profile-triangle of the roof using the given constraints(I rounded the 6.7" to 6.75"):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the 1/2" line on the bottom left corner. This represents the radius from the center point to the inner edge on the top where the finial will go. I also make all of this a 'Component' so it doesn't STICK to the other parts I'll be drawing.
> 
> I then lay up the profile of a 3/4" board profile where it would lie against the roof profile-triangle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I rotate the bottom end out to the bottom edge of the roof profile-triangle:
> SU tells ME that this is 28.4 degrees. Incidently, this is the cut angle for the top & bottom of the roof panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note how it intersects with the triangle, thus keeping space for the hole in the center and not exceeding the roof diameter. It is not just a parallel fit to the triangle.
> 
> Now I convert this roof-panel profile into an actual 3D board by flattening the top & bottom, and pushing/pulling the front and rear faces to give it depth. The goal here is to extend it in both directions further than it needs to be. 5" ought to do it. These will be trimmed off in a later step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've shown it transparent so you can see how it intersects the profile-triangle. The panel itself is also made into a 'Component'.
> 
> Next, I rotate to an arial view to do the real magic. I will be copying(in a circular fashion) that panel 5 more times at 60 degrees(360/6 sides[a hexagon] = 60 degrees). Note the point of rotation around the tip of that line sticking out to the left of the profile-triangle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what you end up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It actually looks to be a jumbled mess doesn't it.
> 
> Lets come down a bit from the arial view and hide 4 of the panels. I also added a wooden color to the panel we will be working on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, since these panels are 'Components', then any changes I do to one, gets replicated on ALL the other panels.
> 
> Now comes the math part, but with no math at all. I draw an intersecting line where the two panels cross, from the inside intersection to the outer intersection. This is done on the top AND bottom beveled edges of the panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now edit the wooden panel itself to connect the upper intersecting line to the lower. And then remove the excess just as if I had cut it off with a saw. I have no idea at this point what that bevel angle is that I just created. Later I'll just measure it using SU. And here's what I'm left with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I also hid that one remaining blue panel to help eliminate some confusion to the non-SU users.
> 
> I now repeat the beveling for the other edge using the adjacent panel on the opposite edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what am I looking at? Because these panels are 'Components', any change I do to one, happens to them ALL. Even if I have them hidden.
> 
> I can simply copy that one beveled face(now shown in wood veneer for easy identification):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then paste it onto my all-wood panel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I do this using one of the most unused, but most useful features of SU, 'Paste In Place'.
> 
> I finish up the panel by simply removing the excess on that other edge of the panel. And what I'm left with is a perfectly formed panel. In fact, if I unhide all the panels, they are all perfectly formed, and with precisely correct beveled edges:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now, how do we cut these panels? More accurately, how do we measure the bevels? I simply make a copy of one of the panels, lay it down on a flat surface and measure the angles using the Protractor Tool in SU. We already know that the top and bottom bevels are 28.4 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side angles for the panels are 15.3 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bevels themselves are 26.1 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the other pertinent dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, now for the base. We are looking for a 8" diameter base at a height of 7". So we do a similar procedure, but it is easier because we don't have to tilt the panels. I won't bore you with the details of this, other than the differences. For the base, I build it extra long, then raise it up into the roof until the top of the inner edge touches the roof panel. I then draw lines that can be used to bevel off the side panels. It is easier to do when having just one roof panel, and one side panel visible:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with most panels in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drew a 7" vertical line from the base of the roof, downward. This gave me a general idea of how tall to make the actual sides. They need to stick down below the lower roof line 7", but they are actually taller since they go up into the roof where they attach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's about it. Any comments, criticisms, and suggestions are welcome. I hope this gives you some new ideas on how to use SU in your future projects.
> 
> Oh, and that bevel angle for the tops of the side panels, well that would be 90-(the bottom angle of the roof panel: 28.4 deg.), ie. 61.6 degrees, right? And the side bevels of any hexagonal box are 60 degrees.
> 
> And with the finish applied:


Thank you David. I really like to see how far I can take SU to keep me away from the math. It is a really neat tool.

Andy, I think the birds would be perfectly happy with a log home.

Pat, Yes, the 8 5/64" is from long point to long point. As for a tablesaw jig. I would cut them on a TS sled. Angle the rear fence 15.3 deg. and tilt the blade 26.1 deg. I'll try to post a mock up this weekend. I'm assuming the cap block is what would cover the seams on the roof. That angle is 127.8 degrees as follows:


----------



## Belg1960

rance said:


> *How to design a Gazebo Bird House*
> 
> A fellow LJ member(Belg1960) was asking about designing an Octagon Birdhouse a while back. He recently contacted me and asked if I would show him how I would do it in SketchUp. I thought I would make this public for all to see. The method that Jim Jakosh provided was certainly a good one. Every woodworker would benefit from understanding math as much as Jim does. Me, I tend to lean more on SU to do my math.
> 
> The SU method I am presenting here is but one SU approach. There are other ways to do this in SU, but this is the first one and the easiest one that came to mind for me.
> 
> Let me say that my purpose with this scenario is to use SU to tell ME the dimensions and angles rather than me having to tell SU those values. This is most often the case with me when using SU during the design.
> 
> The constraints given to me to dimension the Gazebo Bird House(GBH) were as follows:
> 8" diameter base
> 7" base height
> 10" diameter roof line
> 6.7" roof height(derrived from Jim's scale)
> 1" hole at the top(for finial placement)
> (arbitrarilly chosen on my part)
> 
> And YES, he requested a Hexagon, not an Octagon.
> 
> I begin by drawing a side view profile-triangle of the roof using the given constraints(I rounded the 6.7" to 6.75"):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the 1/2" line on the bottom left corner. This represents the radius from the center point to the inner edge on the top where the finial will go. I also make all of this a 'Component' so it doesn't STICK to the other parts I'll be drawing.
> 
> I then lay up the profile of a 3/4" board profile where it would lie against the roof profile-triangle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I rotate the bottom end out to the bottom edge of the roof profile-triangle:
> SU tells ME that this is 28.4 degrees. Incidently, this is the cut angle for the top & bottom of the roof panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note how it intersects with the triangle, thus keeping space for the hole in the center and not exceeding the roof diameter. It is not just a parallel fit to the triangle.
> 
> Now I convert this roof-panel profile into an actual 3D board by flattening the top & bottom, and pushing/pulling the front and rear faces to give it depth. The goal here is to extend it in both directions further than it needs to be. 5" ought to do it. These will be trimmed off in a later step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've shown it transparent so you can see how it intersects the profile-triangle. The panel itself is also made into a 'Component'.
> 
> Next, I rotate to an arial view to do the real magic. I will be copying(in a circular fashion) that panel 5 more times at 60 degrees(360/6 sides[a hexagon] = 60 degrees). Note the point of rotation around the tip of that line sticking out to the left of the profile-triangle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what you end up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It actually looks to be a jumbled mess doesn't it.
> 
> Lets come down a bit from the arial view and hide 4 of the panels. I also added a wooden color to the panel we will be working on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, since these panels are 'Components', then any changes I do to one, gets replicated on ALL the other panels.
> 
> Now comes the math part, but with no math at all. I draw an intersecting line where the two panels cross, from the inside intersection to the outer intersection. This is done on the top AND bottom beveled edges of the panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now edit the wooden panel itself to connect the upper intersecting line to the lower. And then remove the excess just as if I had cut it off with a saw. I have no idea at this point what that bevel angle is that I just created. Later I'll just measure it using SU. And here's what I'm left with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I also hid that one remaining blue panel to help eliminate some confusion to the non-SU users.
> 
> I now repeat the beveling for the other edge using the adjacent panel on the opposite edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what am I looking at? Because these panels are 'Components', any change I do to one, happens to them ALL. Even if I have them hidden.
> 
> I can simply copy that one beveled face(now shown in wood veneer for easy identification):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then paste it onto my all-wood panel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I do this using one of the most unused, but most useful features of SU, 'Paste In Place'.
> 
> I finish up the panel by simply removing the excess on that other edge of the panel. And what I'm left with is a perfectly formed panel. In fact, if I unhide all the panels, they are all perfectly formed, and with precisely correct beveled edges:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now, how do we cut these panels? More accurately, how do we measure the bevels? I simply make a copy of one of the panels, lay it down on a flat surface and measure the angles using the Protractor Tool in SU. We already know that the top and bottom bevels are 28.4 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side angles for the panels are 15.3 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bevels themselves are 26.1 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the other pertinent dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, now for the base. We are looking for a 8" diameter base at a height of 7". So we do a similar procedure, but it is easier because we don't have to tilt the panels. I won't bore you with the details of this, other than the differences. For the base, I build it extra long, then raise it up into the roof until the top of the inner edge touches the roof panel. I then draw lines that can be used to bevel off the side panels. It is easier to do when having just one roof panel, and one side panel visible:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with most panels in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drew a 7" vertical line from the base of the roof, downward. This gave me a general idea of how tall to make the actual sides. They need to stick down below the lower roof line 7", but they are actually taller since they go up into the roof where they attach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's about it. Any comments, criticisms, and suggestions are welcome. I hope this gives you some new ideas on how to use SU in your future projects.
> 
> Oh, and that bevel angle for the tops of the side panels, well that would be 90-(the bottom angle of the roof panel: 28.4 deg.), ie. 61.6 degrees, right? And the side bevels of any hexagonal box are 60 degrees.
> 
> And with the finish applied:


Rance, I was wondering if you had any more thoughts(mock up) about the sled for the table saw? I bought myself a wixey angle gauge and this will help with cutting the .3 or .4 on the tablesaw but I don't think that it will help me on the miter saw, any thoughts on how to figure these angles for that saw? I know it will work on the miter saw for setting a bevel as I can reference the blade to the table for this, just not when I'm trying to cut the mitered angles. Thanks Pat


----------



## rance

rance said:


> *How to design a Gazebo Bird House*
> 
> A fellow LJ member(Belg1960) was asking about designing an Octagon Birdhouse a while back. He recently contacted me and asked if I would show him how I would do it in SketchUp. I thought I would make this public for all to see. The method that Jim Jakosh provided was certainly a good one. Every woodworker would benefit from understanding math as much as Jim does. Me, I tend to lean more on SU to do my math.
> 
> The SU method I am presenting here is but one SU approach. There are other ways to do this in SU, but this is the first one and the easiest one that came to mind for me.
> 
> Let me say that my purpose with this scenario is to use SU to tell ME the dimensions and angles rather than me having to tell SU those values. This is most often the case with me when using SU during the design.
> 
> The constraints given to me to dimension the Gazebo Bird House(GBH) were as follows:
> 8" diameter base
> 7" base height
> 10" diameter roof line
> 6.7" roof height(derrived from Jim's scale)
> 1" hole at the top(for finial placement)
> (arbitrarilly chosen on my part)
> 
> And YES, he requested a Hexagon, not an Octagon.
> 
> I begin by drawing a side view profile-triangle of the roof using the given constraints(I rounded the 6.7" to 6.75"):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the 1/2" line on the bottom left corner. This represents the radius from the center point to the inner edge on the top where the finial will go. I also make all of this a 'Component' so it doesn't STICK to the other parts I'll be drawing.
> 
> I then lay up the profile of a 3/4" board profile where it would lie against the roof profile-triangle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I rotate the bottom end out to the bottom edge of the roof profile-triangle:
> SU tells ME that this is 28.4 degrees. Incidently, this is the cut angle for the top & bottom of the roof panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note how it intersects with the triangle, thus keeping space for the hole in the center and not exceeding the roof diameter. It is not just a parallel fit to the triangle.
> 
> Now I convert this roof-panel profile into an actual 3D board by flattening the top & bottom, and pushing/pulling the front and rear faces to give it depth. The goal here is to extend it in both directions further than it needs to be. 5" ought to do it. These will be trimmed off in a later step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've shown it transparent so you can see how it intersects the profile-triangle. The panel itself is also made into a 'Component'.
> 
> Next, I rotate to an arial view to do the real magic. I will be copying(in a circular fashion) that panel 5 more times at 60 degrees(360/6 sides[a hexagon] = 60 degrees). Note the point of rotation around the tip of that line sticking out to the left of the profile-triangle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what you end up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It actually looks to be a jumbled mess doesn't it.
> 
> Lets come down a bit from the arial view and hide 4 of the panels. I also added a wooden color to the panel we will be working on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, since these panels are 'Components', then any changes I do to one, gets replicated on ALL the other panels.
> 
> Now comes the math part, but with no math at all. I draw an intersecting line where the two panels cross, from the inside intersection to the outer intersection. This is done on the top AND bottom beveled edges of the panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now edit the wooden panel itself to connect the upper intersecting line to the lower. And then remove the excess just as if I had cut it off with a saw. I have no idea at this point what that bevel angle is that I just created. Later I'll just measure it using SU. And here's what I'm left with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I also hid that one remaining blue panel to help eliminate some confusion to the non-SU users.
> 
> I now repeat the beveling for the other edge using the adjacent panel on the opposite edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what am I looking at? Because these panels are 'Components', any change I do to one, happens to them ALL. Even if I have them hidden.
> 
> I can simply copy that one beveled face(now shown in wood veneer for easy identification):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then paste it onto my all-wood panel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I do this using one of the most unused, but most useful features of SU, 'Paste In Place'.
> 
> I finish up the panel by simply removing the excess on that other edge of the panel. And what I'm left with is a perfectly formed panel. In fact, if I unhide all the panels, they are all perfectly formed, and with precisely correct beveled edges:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now, how do we cut these panels? More accurately, how do we measure the bevels? I simply make a copy of one of the panels, lay it down on a flat surface and measure the angles using the Protractor Tool in SU. We already know that the top and bottom bevels are 28.4 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side angles for the panels are 15.3 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bevels themselves are 26.1 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the other pertinent dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, now for the base. We are looking for a 8" diameter base at a height of 7". So we do a similar procedure, but it is easier because we don't have to tilt the panels. I won't bore you with the details of this, other than the differences. For the base, I build it extra long, then raise it up into the roof until the top of the inner edge touches the roof panel. I then draw lines that can be used to bevel off the side panels. It is easier to do when having just one roof panel, and one side panel visible:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with most panels in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drew a 7" vertical line from the base of the roof, downward. This gave me a general idea of how tall to make the actual sides. They need to stick down below the lower roof line 7", but they are actually taller since they go up into the roof where they attach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's about it. Any comments, criticisms, and suggestions are welcome. I hope this gives you some new ideas on how to use SU in your future projects.
> 
> Oh, and that bevel angle for the tops of the side panels, well that would be 90-(the bottom angle of the roof panel: 28.4 deg.), ie. 61.6 degrees, right? And the side bevels of any hexagonal box are 60 degrees.
> 
> And with the finish applied:


This is a view from behind the saw, facing the operator. Screw the white block down to your TS sled at a 15.3 degree angle. Then tilt your TS blade 26.1 degrees.










And for the other side:










Hope this helps.


----------



## stefang

rance said:


> *How to design a Gazebo Bird House*
> 
> A fellow LJ member(Belg1960) was asking about designing an Octagon Birdhouse a while back. He recently contacted me and asked if I would show him how I would do it in SketchUp. I thought I would make this public for all to see. The method that Jim Jakosh provided was certainly a good one. Every woodworker would benefit from understanding math as much as Jim does. Me, I tend to lean more on SU to do my math.
> 
> The SU method I am presenting here is but one SU approach. There are other ways to do this in SU, but this is the first one and the easiest one that came to mind for me.
> 
> Let me say that my purpose with this scenario is to use SU to tell ME the dimensions and angles rather than me having to tell SU those values. This is most often the case with me when using SU during the design.
> 
> The constraints given to me to dimension the Gazebo Bird House(GBH) were as follows:
> 8" diameter base
> 7" base height
> 10" diameter roof line
> 6.7" roof height(derrived from Jim's scale)
> 1" hole at the top(for finial placement)
> (arbitrarilly chosen on my part)
> 
> And YES, he requested a Hexagon, not an Octagon.
> 
> I begin by drawing a side view profile-triangle of the roof using the given constraints(I rounded the 6.7" to 6.75"):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the 1/2" line on the bottom left corner. This represents the radius from the center point to the inner edge on the top where the finial will go. I also make all of this a 'Component' so it doesn't STICK to the other parts I'll be drawing.
> 
> I then lay up the profile of a 3/4" board profile where it would lie against the roof profile-triangle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I rotate the bottom end out to the bottom edge of the roof profile-triangle:
> SU tells ME that this is 28.4 degrees. Incidently, this is the cut angle for the top & bottom of the roof panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note how it intersects with the triangle, thus keeping space for the hole in the center and not exceeding the roof diameter. It is not just a parallel fit to the triangle.
> 
> Now I convert this roof-panel profile into an actual 3D board by flattening the top & bottom, and pushing/pulling the front and rear faces to give it depth. The goal here is to extend it in both directions further than it needs to be. 5" ought to do it. These will be trimmed off in a later step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've shown it transparent so you can see how it intersects the profile-triangle. The panel itself is also made into a 'Component'.
> 
> Next, I rotate to an arial view to do the real magic. I will be copying(in a circular fashion) that panel 5 more times at 60 degrees(360/6 sides[a hexagon] = 60 degrees). Note the point of rotation around the tip of that line sticking out to the left of the profile-triangle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what you end up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It actually looks to be a jumbled mess doesn't it.
> 
> Lets come down a bit from the arial view and hide 4 of the panels. I also added a wooden color to the panel we will be working on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, since these panels are 'Components', then any changes I do to one, gets replicated on ALL the other panels.
> 
> Now comes the math part, but with no math at all. I draw an intersecting line where the two panels cross, from the inside intersection to the outer intersection. This is done on the top AND bottom beveled edges of the panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now edit the wooden panel itself to connect the upper intersecting line to the lower. And then remove the excess just as if I had cut it off with a saw. I have no idea at this point what that bevel angle is that I just created. Later I'll just measure it using SU. And here's what I'm left with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I also hid that one remaining blue panel to help eliminate some confusion to the non-SU users.
> 
> I now repeat the beveling for the other edge using the adjacent panel on the opposite edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what am I looking at? Because these panels are 'Components', any change I do to one, happens to them ALL. Even if I have them hidden.
> 
> I can simply copy that one beveled face(now shown in wood veneer for easy identification):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then paste it onto my all-wood panel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I do this using one of the most unused, but most useful features of SU, 'Paste In Place'.
> 
> I finish up the panel by simply removing the excess on that other edge of the panel. And what I'm left with is a perfectly formed panel. In fact, if I unhide all the panels, they are all perfectly formed, and with precisely correct beveled edges:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now, how do we cut these panels? More accurately, how do we measure the bevels? I simply make a copy of one of the panels, lay it down on a flat surface and measure the angles using the Protractor Tool in SU. We already know that the top and bottom bevels are 28.4 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side angles for the panels are 15.3 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bevels themselves are 26.1 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the other pertinent dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, now for the base. We are looking for a 8" diameter base at a height of 7". So we do a similar procedure, but it is easier because we don't have to tilt the panels. I won't bore you with the details of this, other than the differences. For the base, I build it extra long, then raise it up into the roof until the top of the inner edge touches the roof panel. I then draw lines that can be used to bevel off the side panels. It is easier to do when having just one roof panel, and one side panel visible:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with most panels in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drew a 7" vertical line from the base of the roof, downward. This gave me a general idea of how tall to make the actual sides. They need to stick down below the lower roof line 7", but they are actually taller since they go up into the roof where they attach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's about it. Any comments, criticisms, and suggestions are welcome. I hope this gives you some new ideas on how to use SU in your future projects.
> 
> Oh, and that bevel angle for the tops of the side panels, well that would be 90-(the bottom angle of the roof panel: 28.4 deg.), ie. 61.6 degrees, right? And the side bevels of any hexagonal box are 60 degrees.
> 
> And with the finish applied:


I bow to your mastery of geometry and I am even happier now to have the Woodturner Pro program which does most of this for me. No matter, Your birdhouse design is very good. Solid and attractive too. Well done. I'm sure many will want to build it. Thanks for posting.


----------



## JoeLyddon

rance said:


> *How to design a Gazebo Bird House*
> 
> A fellow LJ member(Belg1960) was asking about designing an Octagon Birdhouse a while back. He recently contacted me and asked if I would show him how I would do it in SketchUp. I thought I would make this public for all to see. The method that Jim Jakosh provided was certainly a good one. Every woodworker would benefit from understanding math as much as Jim does. Me, I tend to lean more on SU to do my math.
> 
> The SU method I am presenting here is but one SU approach. There are other ways to do this in SU, but this is the first one and the easiest one that came to mind for me.
> 
> Let me say that my purpose with this scenario is to use SU to tell ME the dimensions and angles rather than me having to tell SU those values. This is most often the case with me when using SU during the design.
> 
> The constraints given to me to dimension the Gazebo Bird House(GBH) were as follows:
> 8" diameter base
> 7" base height
> 10" diameter roof line
> 6.7" roof height(derrived from Jim's scale)
> 1" hole at the top(for finial placement)
> (arbitrarilly chosen on my part)
> 
> And YES, he requested a Hexagon, not an Octagon.
> 
> I begin by drawing a side view profile-triangle of the roof using the given constraints(I rounded the 6.7" to 6.75"):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the 1/2" line on the bottom left corner. This represents the radius from the center point to the inner edge on the top where the finial will go. I also make all of this a 'Component' so it doesn't STICK to the other parts I'll be drawing.
> 
> I then lay up the profile of a 3/4" board profile where it would lie against the roof profile-triangle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I rotate the bottom end out to the bottom edge of the roof profile-triangle:
> SU tells ME that this is 28.4 degrees. Incidently, this is the cut angle for the top & bottom of the roof panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note how it intersects with the triangle, thus keeping space for the hole in the center and not exceeding the roof diameter. It is not just a parallel fit to the triangle.
> 
> Now I convert this roof-panel profile into an actual 3D board by flattening the top & bottom, and pushing/pulling the front and rear faces to give it depth. The goal here is to extend it in both directions further than it needs to be. 5" ought to do it. These will be trimmed off in a later step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've shown it transparent so you can see how it intersects the profile-triangle. The panel itself is also made into a 'Component'.
> 
> Next, I rotate to an arial view to do the real magic. I will be copying(in a circular fashion) that panel 5 more times at 60 degrees(360/6 sides[a hexagon] = 60 degrees). Note the point of rotation around the tip of that line sticking out to the left of the profile-triangle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what you end up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It actually looks to be a jumbled mess doesn't it.
> 
> Lets come down a bit from the arial view and hide 4 of the panels. I also added a wooden color to the panel we will be working on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, since these panels are 'Components', then any changes I do to one, gets replicated on ALL the other panels.
> 
> Now comes the math part, but with no math at all. I draw an intersecting line where the two panels cross, from the inside intersection to the outer intersection. This is done on the top AND bottom beveled edges of the panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now edit the wooden panel itself to connect the upper intersecting line to the lower. And then remove the excess just as if I had cut it off with a saw. I have no idea at this point what that bevel angle is that I just created. Later I'll just measure it using SU. And here's what I'm left with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I also hid that one remaining blue panel to help eliminate some confusion to the non-SU users.
> 
> I now repeat the beveling for the other edge using the adjacent panel on the opposite edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what am I looking at? Because these panels are 'Components', any change I do to one, happens to them ALL. Even if I have them hidden.
> 
> I can simply copy that one beveled face(now shown in wood veneer for easy identification):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then paste it onto my all-wood panel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I do this using one of the most unused, but most useful features of SU, 'Paste In Place'.
> 
> I finish up the panel by simply removing the excess on that other edge of the panel. And what I'm left with is a perfectly formed panel. In fact, if I unhide all the panels, they are all perfectly formed, and with precisely correct beveled edges:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now, how do we cut these panels? More accurately, how do we measure the bevels? I simply make a copy of one of the panels, lay it down on a flat surface and measure the angles using the Protractor Tool in SU. We already know that the top and bottom bevels are 28.4 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side angles for the panels are 15.3 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bevels themselves are 26.1 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the other pertinent dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, now for the base. We are looking for a 8" diameter base at a height of 7". So we do a similar procedure, but it is easier because we don't have to tilt the panels. I won't bore you with the details of this, other than the differences. For the base, I build it extra long, then raise it up into the roof until the top of the inner edge touches the roof panel. I then draw lines that can be used to bevel off the side panels. It is easier to do when having just one roof panel, and one side panel visible:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with most panels in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drew a 7" vertical line from the base of the roof, downward. This gave me a general idea of how tall to make the actual sides. They need to stick down below the lower roof line 7", but they are actually taller since they go up into the roof where they attach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's about it. Any comments, criticisms, and suggestions are welcome. I hope this gives you some new ideas on how to use SU in your future projects.
> 
> Oh, and that bevel angle for the tops of the side panels, well that would be 90-(the bottom angle of the roof panel: 28.4 deg.), ie. 61.6 degrees, right? And the side bevels of any hexagonal box are 60 degrees.
> 
> And with the finish applied:


Man… I got lost a long time ago…

I started understanding when it got to post #6 LOL

Looks interesting…


----------



## waleedwaheed2013

rance said:


> *How to design a Gazebo Bird House*
> 
> A fellow LJ member(Belg1960) was asking about designing an Octagon Birdhouse a while back. He recently contacted me and asked if I would show him how I would do it in SketchUp. I thought I would make this public for all to see. The method that Jim Jakosh provided was certainly a good one. Every woodworker would benefit from understanding math as much as Jim does. Me, I tend to lean more on SU to do my math.
> 
> The SU method I am presenting here is but one SU approach. There are other ways to do this in SU, but this is the first one and the easiest one that came to mind for me.
> 
> Let me say that my purpose with this scenario is to use SU to tell ME the dimensions and angles rather than me having to tell SU those values. This is most often the case with me when using SU during the design.
> 
> The constraints given to me to dimension the Gazebo Bird House(GBH) were as follows:
> 8" diameter base
> 7" base height
> 10" diameter roof line
> 6.7" roof height(derrived from Jim's scale)
> 1" hole at the top(for finial placement)
> (arbitrarilly chosen on my part)
> 
> And YES, he requested a Hexagon, not an Octagon.
> 
> I begin by drawing a side view profile-triangle of the roof using the given constraints(I rounded the 6.7" to 6.75"):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the 1/2" line on the bottom left corner. This represents the radius from the center point to the inner edge on the top where the finial will go. I also make all of this a 'Component' so it doesn't STICK to the other parts I'll be drawing.
> 
> I then lay up the profile of a 3/4" board profile where it would lie against the roof profile-triangle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I rotate the bottom end out to the bottom edge of the roof profile-triangle:
> SU tells ME that this is 28.4 degrees. Incidently, this is the cut angle for the top & bottom of the roof panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note how it intersects with the triangle, thus keeping space for the hole in the center and not exceeding the roof diameter. It is not just a parallel fit to the triangle.
> 
> Now I convert this roof-panel profile into an actual 3D board by flattening the top & bottom, and pushing/pulling the front and rear faces to give it depth. The goal here is to extend it in both directions further than it needs to be. 5" ought to do it. These will be trimmed off in a later step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've shown it transparent so you can see how it intersects the profile-triangle. The panel itself is also made into a 'Component'.
> 
> Next, I rotate to an arial view to do the real magic. I will be copying(in a circular fashion) that panel 5 more times at 60 degrees(360/6 sides[a hexagon] = 60 degrees). Note the point of rotation around the tip of that line sticking out to the left of the profile-triangle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what you end up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It actually looks to be a jumbled mess doesn't it.
> 
> Lets come down a bit from the arial view and hide 4 of the panels. I also added a wooden color to the panel we will be working on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, since these panels are 'Components', then any changes I do to one, gets replicated on ALL the other panels.
> 
> Now comes the math part, but with no math at all. I draw an intersecting line where the two panels cross, from the inside intersection to the outer intersection. This is done on the top AND bottom beveled edges of the panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now edit the wooden panel itself to connect the upper intersecting line to the lower. And then remove the excess just as if I had cut it off with a saw. I have no idea at this point what that bevel angle is that I just created. Later I'll just measure it using SU. And here's what I'm left with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I also hid that one remaining blue panel to help eliminate some confusion to the non-SU users.
> 
> I now repeat the beveling for the other edge using the adjacent panel on the opposite edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what am I looking at? Because these panels are 'Components', any change I do to one, happens to them ALL. Even if I have them hidden.
> 
> I can simply copy that one beveled face(now shown in wood veneer for easy identification):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then paste it onto my all-wood panel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I do this using one of the most unused, but most useful features of SU, 'Paste In Place'.
> 
> I finish up the panel by simply removing the excess on that other edge of the panel. And what I'm left with is a perfectly formed panel. In fact, if I unhide all the panels, they are all perfectly formed, and with precisely correct beveled edges:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now, how do we cut these panels? More accurately, how do we measure the bevels? I simply make a copy of one of the panels, lay it down on a flat surface and measure the angles using the Protractor Tool in SU. We already know that the top and bottom bevels are 28.4 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side angles for the panels are 15.3 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bevels themselves are 26.1 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the other pertinent dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, now for the base. We are looking for a 8" diameter base at a height of 7". So we do a similar procedure, but it is easier because we don't have to tilt the panels. I won't bore you with the details of this, other than the differences. For the base, I build it extra long, then raise it up into the roof until the top of the inner edge touches the roof panel. I then draw lines that can be used to bevel off the side panels. It is easier to do when having just one roof panel, and one side panel visible:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with most panels in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drew a 7" vertical line from the base of the roof, downward. This gave me a general idea of how tall to make the actual sides. They need to stick down below the lower roof line 7", but they are actually taller since they go up into the roof where they attach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's about it. Any comments, criticisms, and suggestions are welcome. I hope this gives you some new ideas on how to use SU in your future projects.
> 
> Oh, and that bevel angle for the tops of the side panels, well that would be 90-(the bottom angle of the roof panel: 28.4 deg.), ie. 61.6 degrees, right? And the side bevels of any hexagonal box are 60 degrees.
> 
> And with the finish applied:


This is good work , I think you are Engineer and you have many Skell s .

Thanks Dear


----------



## pilotboat

rance said:


> *How to design a Gazebo Bird House*
> 
> A fellow LJ member(Belg1960) was asking about designing an Octagon Birdhouse a while back. He recently contacted me and asked if I would show him how I would do it in SketchUp. I thought I would make this public for all to see. The method that Jim Jakosh provided was certainly a good one. Every woodworker would benefit from understanding math as much as Jim does. Me, I tend to lean more on SU to do my math.
> 
> The SU method I am presenting here is but one SU approach. There are other ways to do this in SU, but this is the first one and the easiest one that came to mind for me.
> 
> Let me say that my purpose with this scenario is to use SU to tell ME the dimensions and angles rather than me having to tell SU those values. This is most often the case with me when using SU during the design.
> 
> The constraints given to me to dimension the Gazebo Bird House(GBH) were as follows:
> 8" diameter base
> 7" base height
> 10" diameter roof line
> 6.7" roof height(derrived from Jim's scale)
> 1" hole at the top(for finial placement)
> (arbitrarilly chosen on my part)
> 
> And YES, he requested a Hexagon, not an Octagon.
> 
> I begin by drawing a side view profile-triangle of the roof using the given constraints(I rounded the 6.7" to 6.75"):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the 1/2" line on the bottom left corner. This represents the radius from the center point to the inner edge on the top where the finial will go. I also make all of this a 'Component' so it doesn't STICK to the other parts I'll be drawing.
> 
> I then lay up the profile of a 3/4" board profile where it would lie against the roof profile-triangle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I rotate the bottom end out to the bottom edge of the roof profile-triangle:
> SU tells ME that this is 28.4 degrees. Incidently, this is the cut angle for the top & bottom of the roof panels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note how it intersects with the triangle, thus keeping space for the hole in the center and not exceeding the roof diameter. It is not just a parallel fit to the triangle.
> 
> Now I convert this roof-panel profile into an actual 3D board by flattening the top & bottom, and pushing/pulling the front and rear faces to give it depth. The goal here is to extend it in both directions further than it needs to be. 5" ought to do it. These will be trimmed off in a later step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've shown it transparent so you can see how it intersects the profile-triangle. The panel itself is also made into a 'Component'.
> 
> Next, I rotate to an arial view to do the real magic. I will be copying(in a circular fashion) that panel 5 more times at 60 degrees(360/6 sides[a hexagon] = 60 degrees). Note the point of rotation around the tip of that line sticking out to the left of the profile-triangle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's what you end up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It actually looks to be a jumbled mess doesn't it.
> 
> Lets come down a bit from the arial view and hide 4 of the panels. I also added a wooden color to the panel we will be working on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, since these panels are 'Components', then any changes I do to one, gets replicated on ALL the other panels.
> 
> Now comes the math part, but with no math at all. I draw an intersecting line where the two panels cross, from the inside intersection to the outer intersection. This is done on the top AND bottom beveled edges of the panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now edit the wooden panel itself to connect the upper intersecting line to the lower. And then remove the excess just as if I had cut it off with a saw. I have no idea at this point what that bevel angle is that I just created. Later I'll just measure it using SU. And here's what I'm left with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note that I also hid that one remaining blue panel to help eliminate some confusion to the non-SU users.
> 
> I now repeat the beveling for the other edge using the adjacent panel on the opposite edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what am I looking at? Because these panels are 'Components', any change I do to one, happens to them ALL. Even if I have them hidden.
> 
> I can simply copy that one beveled face(now shown in wood veneer for easy identification):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then paste it onto my all-wood panel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I do this using one of the most unused, but most useful features of SU, 'Paste In Place'.
> 
> I finish up the panel by simply removing the excess on that other edge of the panel. And what I'm left with is a perfectly formed panel. In fact, if I unhide all the panels, they are all perfectly formed, and with precisely correct beveled edges:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now, how do we cut these panels? More accurately, how do we measure the bevels? I simply make a copy of one of the panels, lay it down on a flat surface and measure the angles using the Protractor Tool in SU. We already know that the top and bottom bevels are 28.4 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The side angles for the panels are 15.3 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the bevels themselves are 26.1 degrees:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And all the other pertinent dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, now for the base. We are looking for a 8" diameter base at a height of 7". So we do a similar procedure, but it is easier because we don't have to tilt the panels. I won't bore you with the details of this, other than the differences. For the base, I build it extra long, then raise it up into the roof until the top of the inner edge touches the roof panel. I then draw lines that can be used to bevel off the side panels. It is easier to do when having just one roof panel, and one side panel visible:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with most panels in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I drew a 7" vertical line from the base of the roof, downward. This gave me a general idea of how tall to make the actual sides. They need to stick down below the lower roof line 7", but they are actually taller since they go up into the roof where they attach.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that's about it. Any comments, criticisms, and suggestions are welcome. I hope this gives you some new ideas on how to use SU in your future projects.
> 
> Oh, and that bevel angle for the tops of the side panels, well that would be 90-(the bottom angle of the roof panel: 28.4 deg.), ie. 61.6 degrees, right? And the side bevels of any hexagonal box are 60 degrees.
> 
> And with the finish applied:


how did you get the 127.8 degree measurement?


----------

