# "Art Box" Tutorial



## Argyllshire

*Finishing*

The tutorial is under construction.


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## GaryK

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I'd be interested! Thanks

I know exactly how much work it takes to do something like this.


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## DanYo

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go for it !! I'm looking forward to it


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## majeagle1

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I'm all for it Andy, .... hope you're ready for this because I think you are going to get "ALOT" of responses…............. Can't wait for the posts


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## MsDebbieP

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I'm interested for sure!! What a generous offer.


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## lew

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Please count me as one who would appreciate seeing a tutorial.

Lew


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## a1Jim

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Hey Andy that would be great.


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## Radish

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Anyone that has been bitten by the box-bug would be into this. I'm continually dissatisfied by the squareness and lineal nature of my own output. I've been knocked out by the sinuous lines and the inset "medallion" on the lids of your boxes since I first saw them.

I echo Deb's comment. This is a very generous offer and I for one would be a most grateful subscriber to a blog. While I can't speak for anyone but myself, I'd put money on CharlieM1958 and Blake's interest as well…


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## loupitou06

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Like my grandmother used to say : ask a blind man if he wants to see again but don't ask me if I want step-by-step instructions for beautiful boxes with picture


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## GEORGE6149

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Andy; i would greatly appreciate a step by step tutorial. thanks


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## bnoles

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As one of Rachel's box 42 favorites, I would enjoy the opportunity to paticipate in your class and thank you very much for taking the time to do this.


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## Toolz

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Yes please. I would like to see the tutorial.


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## whitedog

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i say yes , i am addicted to box making so anything on making them is great … i love all of your projects


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## Chips

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I find building boxes addictive. Yes I would like to see a tutorial.


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## TwangyOne

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Count me in! Box building was my sole purpose for getting into woodworking (even though I've yet to actually finish one, OOPS!)


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## flcopper169

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I"m in…. I do love those boxes…

Thanks…

Rob


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## Argyllshire

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We now have over a dozen votes to proceed with the tutorial.Me and my big mouth,haha.
I need to finish up two boxes I am currently making,post those photos,and then I will start getting organized.
Be patient.


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## tmblweed0429

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Count me in! Thanks for offering to do this. I promise if you do this I will actually build one too!


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## Rustic

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count me in


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## sbryan55

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I am always willing to participate in learning a new technique, so count me in.


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## Karson

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Count me in.


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## JohnGray

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Count me in, I'd love to do it.


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## RWR

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I for one would love to see, step by step, your process of making these beautiful boxes. Thanks.


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## Radish

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Willing to wait…thanks Andy!


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## Lee

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Count me in. And, thanks for your effort in advance. Your going above and beyond the call.

Lee


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## Argyllshire

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Thanks again for all of the positive feed back.I will keep reading here for votes and will also write how I am proceeding on my end.

To tantalize everyone even further,I will be posting pictures of the most involved,hi tech version of this box I have and will ever build.This is a one off design and I will never do another.
It was designed for the last contest,incorporating both elements, a knot and a secret.But life got in the way and it wasnt finished in time.It has been sitting on shelf waiting for me.Hopefully I will have it completed this weekend,I just have the tray dividers and lining to complete.
Thanks again,
Andy


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## Russel

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Andy, you write and I'll read. When people who know what they're doing share their skills it's nothing but a bonus.


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## DennisLeeZongker

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That sounds like a great idea Andy. Your boxes are incredible, Thanks for inspiring so many people.


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## Billp

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Andy that's why I come to this sight to learn from talented people like yourself. We all would be better with you sharing your knowledge with us.


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## ellen35

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I'd love to learn!
Ellen


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## Shadydog

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I'm in.


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## cwcad

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I like Russel's response. "You write and I'll read."

Count me in as well!!


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## WacoustaWombat

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I'd be *VERY* interested in your offer. I made my first box-which was also a chessboard-last year. Really struggled through it. Would like to make some other boxes, but would like to do it right. So yes, please.


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## DuncanInSpain

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I'd be interested. Lack of space means small projects are the order of the day for me and these boxes are cool…


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## DeputyDawg

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Andy;
Count the "Dawg" in. Looking forward to learning.


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## river

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I for one would love to see, step by step, your process of making these beautiful boxes. Thanks.


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## davidtheboxmaker

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Andy
I'll always looking for new box designs to inspire me. I like to make something a bit different so please go ahead with the blog.


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## PCorl

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I would be interested….add me to the list….Thanks


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## woodworkersguide

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I'm in too!


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## GregGibbons

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Just statred making boxes, by all means, post and I'll build

Much Thanks Andy


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## rherring3

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I would love to be taught by "The Master" Thanks for your offer.


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## wayner

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Count me in

Thanks Andy


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## douglbe

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I love tutorials on learning new methods. These boxes will be a great way to use up some of the many cut offs I tend to hang on to. Thanks for your generosity.


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## adeptr

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Count me in, Andy!


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## BobR

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Add me to the list.


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## dickpiper

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I'm in; sounds interesting.


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## dickreeves

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Anything you feel like sharing would be greatly appreciated.
Box on…


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## reuser

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I am in! Please share the power.


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## satchmo

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Hey Andy - Please include me.
I would also like any side-notes on humidors - Thanks


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## Ernest1

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I'm interested also. Boxes are fun to make and give away.


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## WadeP

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Andy, I would really appreciate it if you would share your secrets with us.
Thanks


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## iSawitfirst

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I want to see that 4" angle grinder in action!


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## Gpops

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I guess I make 50th response. Wonder if it is enough to get you started on that tutorial? Don


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## Argyllshire

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I am impressed with all the positive response.Thanks to all of you.

I am working behind the scenes,organizing,editing,etc…Stay tuned.
I am wanting to make this a "Challenge",which is a great way for everyone to apply what they learn and then show it off to the group.This was suggested by MsDebbie and Martin.
No prizes will be given away,just a chance to show your version of a sculpted box.

I will link from here to the tutorial page when I am ready and also will refer back to this blog to bring late comers up to speed.

I will be posting another version of these sculpted boxes this morning and another in a few days,so keep your eyes peeled.

Thanks again!


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## rpalm

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Thanks, I eager to learn.


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## mccreamark

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I am interested too.
Thank you
Mark


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## cmm

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I would be very grateful to you for sharing your skills and techniques.
Thanks.


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## Coloneldon

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Yes please. I would like to see the tutorial.


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## leroy

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I'm definitely interested and truly appreciate your effort and willingness to share.


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## cwcad

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First off we should be thanking YOU for the effort much less the pictures, plans, and posts. But your welcome never the less.


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## abie

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Yes. 
I am making boxes only now because my home is full of furniture.


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## renthal

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Fire away! Nothing puts it all together like a tutorial. Maybe if you do one, that will shame me in to putting one together.


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## boxman

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i for one would like to see more pictures , seeing someone work only helps to give a person ideas & make you a better woodworker, thanks.


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## dalec

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Add me to your expansive list of subscribers.

Thanks,

Dalec


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## bamasawduster

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Look, dude, I've marveled at your boxes. The idea of being shown how to build one has definitely gotten my attention. Thanks a million for your consideration and effort.


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## grumpa

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Hey!! Yes something new for the old Grumpa. The grandkids will love this.


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## larrysch

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me too - looking forward to learning anything new


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## BillyT

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That's a very kind and generous offer Andy! I'm in for sure!

Bill


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## tacodan

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Looking for just the right box for my Mom's cremains!


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## edsea

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Thank You, perfect timing for my new shop. Ed


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## celtmann

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I'm very interested, and appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience…


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## Kaytrim

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Count me in as wanting to learn this process. These are top notch gifts for friends and family.


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## jimjanbar

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Your sharing part your talents with us would be greatly appreciated.
Thanking you in advance,
Jim


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## BlueBrummie

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Count me in. I'm a relative newbie, and always looking to learn a new technique/method.

Erick


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## Lane

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I definitely like to see a tutorial. Some great work, Andy. I need to "fix" some picture frames…now I know how I'm going to go about just making new/better ones. Trying something new.


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## Ampeater

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I would definitely like to see it as well.


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## Byates

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Count me in! I always like your boxes!


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## ggparkin

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count me in too.


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## paperbender1965

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I am certainly in.


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## busterz

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Your boxes are great & I would like to try to build one our two myself.


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## vidkid26

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As Letterman would say," Cut me a slice of that!"


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## SeaQuest

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Yes Please Andy!!!


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## jarruda144

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Count me in, please and thanks a bunch!


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## Schummie

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Andy, I can't wait, thank you.

Schummie.


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## kwerdal

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I would be interested as well!!


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## Newton

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Please….POST!


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## kidcacy

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Your willingness to share represents the foundation upon which our hobby/profession has been built. Thanks for your kind offer. I await like a school girl looking forward to her first date!


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## gbear

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sounds great…i'm in


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## 12ftguru

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Yes please. I really appreciate anyone willing to share their hard won lessons.


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## parkerdude

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Well to answer you post, I do think that you're stingy, but that's just for the whiners amongst us. Seriously though, I'd be VERY interested in your box blog. I just got interested in making boxes a few months ago and have been assembling the tools and techniques to learn to make great gift boxes. What I find most interesting is the great lack of info addressing the actual technique. I just see posts of pretty pictures. My boxes are usually applauded for the unique inlays and such (those are the mistakes that I've covered up).

So I'm all in, the areas that I have interest in are boxes that don't have store bought hinges (I hate to craft a fine box and have to put someone else's EXPENSIVE lid system on it. So please think about alternative closure systems maybe something like friction fit lids and shop made hinges.

Thanks


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## tuzeman

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Yes, please count me in…


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## Xymenah

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I would love to see a tutorial! I absolutely love boxes and am always looking for ways to make new and different ones.


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## sandw40

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As a beginner I would love to watch and learn.


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## justjohn49

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I am also eager to learn something new. Count me in.


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## herg1

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Please add me to the list.


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## Loc

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Please!


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## LorenN

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As a new woodworker - this helps me learn alot - Yes.

-LorenN


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## sloopjohnb

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Andy…I would be very interested in your generous offer. Thanks much. 
John B.


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## Zipsss

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I am in.


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## sharad

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Eagerly waiting to watch your tutorials. I really appreciate your magnanimity for what you are doing for us.
Sharad


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## pommy

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Im in Andy all for learning more skills


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## DallasWJ

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To borrow (and edit) a line from Field of Dreams, If you teach it, we will build.
I'd love to see the tutorial, Andy!


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## rla036

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Thanks Andy, I am always looking for new ideas and appreciate those who share their expertise with fellow woodworkers.

Bob


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## MelvinKey

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Andy, I would love to see a tutorial.
Melvin


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## Handymom

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Ditto to all of the above (count me in, please, I'm in, and all the othere). Can't wait.


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## Runningmike

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Count me in too please.

Mike


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## LJR

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Would love to see how you make these!


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## Chiefk

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Count me as another interested LJ


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## patron

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yes please i'll have what he's having .
from one boxmaker to another ,
if we don't share ,
nobody gets any better ,
and the world at large 
is a sadder place .
no body can take your place ,
but they can all honor you in their work !


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## TheWingDoctor

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Please post the tutorial. I would love to see and use the proccess myself. Yes, we will use a process you have created, but this forum is about sharing techniques and ideas. I would never expect to cost you a sale of a box, just to be able to create a beautiful box that I can appreciate and give as a gift that others cn appreciate. Thanks.

Bruce


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## Durnik150

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Sign me up. I'm interested!


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## SCOTSMAN

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yes I too would like to see the tutorial please. Have you enough people now? thanks again Alistair


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## wells

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I like making boxes and would appreciate a tutorial by someone of your caliber. I have only been reading the posts lately and not been posting. I would follow your posts!


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## kerflesss

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Count Me-ow in too…


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## Argyllshire

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The response has been outstanding! Thanks to everyone.
I will keep on working away behind the scenes.
I have one more box to post this week which is very different from the others,but the same basic idea.
Then its back to the writing and photo layout for the tutorial.
Stay tuned


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## majeagle1

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Well said Patron !!!! How True!
Wow, it looks like it's up to 114 comments now…...........

Gonna be a lotta beautiful boxes out there after Andy shares his skills with us.
What a fan base you have Andy !!!!


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## psquared

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I'm in.


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## SawTooth1953

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I am interested… I just started making boxes and would appreciate learning how to make more attractive ones. Thanks for the offer.


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## Maximillian

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I would love to, although its a long way to come from New Zealand. Still, maybe a woodworking Holiday in the U.S. would be a good idea. However, I can't see the War Office being too amused by that… Then again, if she scored a nice art box out of the deal…


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## dragondncr

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I would definately be interested in this. Hopefully this is an online tutorial.


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## GMoney

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Count me in!


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## Treeclimber

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Andy,

I add myself to this growing list and look forward to it.


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## FatherHooligan

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if there is still virtual room count me in.


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## TemplateTom

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Andy

You have created a great interest in the making of your boxes and I admire you for the effort you are making to present the solutions. I have been teaching for over 50 years and it seems you have produced the class I was always seeking. The best class I ever had was at The Association for the blind where I taught them to use the router. I look forward to seeing your presentation so keep up the good work. I tried the same idea on another forum but because I was introducing new routing techniques I had very little followers willing to learn as they were only prepared to listen to one person who had little understanding of what I had to offer and they were only listening to one person.

A famous quote I read some where '*Keep doing what you have been doing for years and you will end up with same results' *

So fellow wood workers listen to what Andy has to say with an open mind.

Tom


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## Hawgnutz

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Andy,
WOW, what a generous offer! COUNT ME IN! I wold love to learn how to create a beautiful box like yours.

God Bless,
Hawg


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## aleksmartin

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Count me in

Thanks Andy


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## Lboy

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Sign me up!


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## TThomas

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sounds great to me…thanks for the help….


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## cmoss

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Please add my name to the list on the tutorial for the boxes
regards Charles


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## MarioF

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Andy, count me in, thank you for your time and effort, it takes a lot of work to do this.


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## tresselk

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I would definitely be interested.


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## Hersh

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Hi Andy,
Please count me in as well. I have seen your submitted projects, and I love the Little Gem and the Art boxes. Thank You.


----------



## Al_PG

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


I'm in. I would love to make one for each of my kids. Thank you.


----------



## RTT

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


I'd be interested! Thanks


----------



## digger

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Sounds great, can't wait.


----------



## dustbunny

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


I 132nd that vote !!

Lisa


----------



## gordo

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Yeah! I think that I would like to try this. I'm a novice woodworker, so anything and everything will be a help


----------



## ken2000

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Great sign me up

Ken


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


I appreciate all the support and will be happy to share my approach with all of you.
YES-To all those who wanted to know if this is an online tutorial.
It will be a simple discription accompanied with photos for each significant step.
Thats what I am working on now.I dont want to start the blog too soon,or it will grag on far to long I fear.
My goal is to have the brunt of the text and photos done before I post anything.Then as everyone is starting on their own box I will introduce the next phase.
I would appreciate any suggestions and if possible will address those.
Thanks again,
Andy


----------



## phil1950

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


I WOULD LIKE MORE INFORMATION! I had severe arthritis this winter past, and had to stop my wood working.

Feeling better with warmer weather, so I am back to reading LJ and saw your Art Boxes blog…

any links to show them????

(or did I miss the link because of tired eyes)????

philip in Eugene, Oregon


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Hi Phillip.
Sorry to hear about your fight with arthritis! That sure takes the fun out of woodworking.
I am glad your doing better and are able to get back to making sawdust.
Please share one of your projects with us when you get time.

By the way, if you want to see one of my boxes just click on the projects tab to the left of my picture.It will bring up a photo of my latest one and then on to the next.
Just let me know if you have any trouble.

Thanks for your interest,and I hope we get that sunshine they keep promising


----------



## kb7fxj

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Count me in

Art Wasilla Alaska


----------



## bowyer

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Count me in


----------



## beemerbob

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


I need a project for birthdays coming up. Count me in.

Bob


----------



## prez

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


if you can show me how to make them as beautiful as the ones you make….I WANT TO LEARN !!

As part of the tutorial…..maybe you can ask all those who participated to send a picture of their completed project!! Wouldn't that be awesome…..


----------



## Elaine

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


An opportunity to learn how to make a box as beautiful as yours? Count me in!


----------



## azal

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


thanks in advance, old dog needs to learn new tricks.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Thanks for all the positve feedback 
@Prez-Thats exactly what we are going to do.It is going to be a challenge,no prizes,just an opportunity for all who want, to post their own rendition.
I am certain it will be a blast.
Stay tuned.


----------



## AeroClassics

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


I would be very interested! I never turn down an opportunity to learn some new technique…..especially from a master!

Doug


----------



## adam_nolen

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


totally interested. when does it start? haha


----------



## dickn

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Andy,

I would be very interested in learning your techniques. You do great work!


----------



## BigTim

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Looks like this will be a VERY popular blog. 
I'd be very interested in learning more from a talented woodworker!


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


@Adam-I am hoping to start page one this weekend.Thank you for your interest.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


@Dick andTim - Thats really nice of you to say that.I will post a new box by Sunday,so keep an eye out.


----------



## jockmike2

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


'Don't leave me out. I'm in.


----------



## vegeta

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


i would very much like to learn the technique you use to make your boxes 
i thank you ahead of time for all the effort you are putting into this


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


I have just posted a box with a twist.It will be include in the tutorial.
Here is a detail shot.


----------



## Benjamin

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Andy I am just a newbie to this site, but I would love some new knowledge in the art of boxs. I agree with everyone else, this is a very generous offer. I wouldn't be surprised if the enitire site tunes in. I look forward to it. Thanks and beautiful work…...


----------



## SCOTSMAN

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


I think we have enough people voting yes now don't we?Alistair


----------



## Allens

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


*Newbie Alert:* I might just have to give it a go as well, especially after seeing this last box you made.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Thanks everyone! We definitely have enough people signed up.I am cutting out the project box and photographing the process.Then I will start the tutorial page…soon.
@Paul and Kathy-Thanks  Go for it!!


----------



## Semalot

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Late, but sure am happy to see you doing this for the community. Your artistry is unique and very pleasing to the eye. I really appreciate your efforts and generosity.
Best regards,
Michael


----------



## cabinetmaster

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Late but not out. I was talking to a guy the other day about doing some jewelery boxes with veneer and inlay. So your tutorial will be just the thing to help me get started. Thanks for the offer and I look forward to you blog.


----------



## halhoyle

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Being a novice woodworker, I for one would be mightily grateful to learn how to build boxes like those you've displayed.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Thanks everyone!
Follow the link below to page #1 of the tutorial.It has finally strated.
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/9415


----------



## ratchet

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


I'm late but I'm in!


----------



## abie

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Mr Too..
Bruce


----------



## Carolynne

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


YESSSSSSS!!!!!!!


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Thanks for the interest in the tutorial,here is the link.
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/9415


----------



## blade

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Love your work, dedication and big heart for sharing


----------



## Pawky

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Thank you for sharing this tutorial, I loved reading through it


----------



## Carolynne

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Please?? I love your boxes and as a burgoning newbie thrive on your expertise…

What I would like to know is how many Jockeys out there would like me to do a tutorial, step by step, on a new box? With lots of clear photographs?


----------



## karlroth

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


its brilliant that you've shared so much - a truly generous gift
thank you !!

k


----------



## blackcherry

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Andy I to am taken by these beautiful boxes and can't express the thank in which you have tutorial your boxes. I now in the works of try out your boxes can't wait to start sculpturing these boxes. I just love spending time in my small shop and creating works of wood, so therapeutic and rewarding. I know you spent plenty of time sharing your works and it is so appreciated by me and many more LJ's who take the time to read. Thanks for all you have done past and present, looking forward to posting my Andy's type boxes your friend in woodworking …Wilson


----------



## kellerbomb

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Years later and I have to admit that I am still interested!


----------



## witch1

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Please include me with those who want you to continue with this lesson!
Sharon


----------



## AnsbachArtisans

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Still interested. Love to be able to view the tutorial Andy.


----------



## sandhill

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Andy you left us hanging. I would love to see the last part.


----------



## raydawg

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Yes. Love to learn better finishing like yours.


----------



## BrettUK

Argyllshire said:


> *Finishing*
> 
> The tutorial is under construction.


Looking forward to it pal.


----------



## Argyllshire

*Intro*

Updated 1/15/12

How to make an Art Box

by Andy Campbell

*Safety*

Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.

Style
Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.










2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.










3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.










The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.

The Chapters will cover the following:
#1- Introduction
#2- Wood Selection
#3- Making the Box
#4- Corner Splines
#5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
#6- The Lid
#7- The Medallion
#8- The Handle
#9- It all Hinges on This
#10-The Pin Hinge
#11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
#12-Shaping
#13-Finishing
#14-Dividers

Andy


----------



## ellen35

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


I am waiting with baited breath!


----------



## rtb

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


I really like your boxes and your review. Looking forward to continuing the journey


----------



## a1Jim

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


This should be good bring it on.


----------



## majeagle1

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Goog beginning Andy, can't wait for the main feature and then the grand finale!!!!!

Thanks agian for doing this !


----------



## Kindlingmaker

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Thank you!


----------



## Radish

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


What Gene said!


----------



## Toolz

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Already added to my "watch list" many thanks


----------



## blade

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


This is great for a novice like me. I've never built a gift box of any sort. I love it . thank you for sharing.


----------



## pommy

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Andy added to watch list and eagerly awaiting the next episode this is what makes this site so unique thanks mate


----------



## DennisLeeZongker

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Looking forward to your tutorial. Your Art Deco box is my favorite. It reminds me of fine tuned Cadillac. Thanks for sharing, Andy.


----------



## DanYo

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


get ready, get set, go …. hope you enjoy your time making it as I am looking forward to seeing it


----------



## MsDebbieP

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


goal: check! 
disclaimer: check! 

let the games begin!


----------



## BigTim

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Keep 'em coming!


----------



## gordo

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Thanks Andy. I'm looking forward to this.

Gordo


----------



## cabinetmaster

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


I'm ready to go. Let's get started…........................................................................


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


I am getting close to posting the first construction photos…just getting my thoughts down in a logical sequence.Another day or so.

We get in the habit of doing something without thinking too much about it.
This is good for me ,it's making me evaluate my process and see where I need to improve.

Thanks for your patience.


----------



## tomd

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


I am literally changelled, I need lots of pictures. This will be very interesting.


----------



## dcutter

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


I've always wanted to build a box and have plenty of scrap wood to work with! Can't wait to see if I can duplicate your beautiful work.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Here is a link to Part #2.
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/9672


----------



## Karson

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Thanks for the blog series.


----------



## justjohn49

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Thanks Andy


----------



## woodplay

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Thanks Andy. Is the shaping next???


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Your welcome Rick.Actually,the last chapter showed as much of the shaping as I can really express with photos.Since every box is different,there really isnt a plan of attack,its more about feel and self expression.The last chapter is about complete and will show the final sanding and how it looks finished.


----------



## woodplay

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


I suppose what I'm most curious about are the tools you use and in what order you like to use them in the shaping process. Do you usually draw a patern out or does the pillowed effect just happen and somewhat fall into place?


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Hi Rick,the tutorial covers the tools and the process pretty well.It will become more clear as you start making one.The pillowed top is shaped with the grinder or a sander,just remove the excess wood on the lid and medallion,until it all blends together into a dome or whatever you fancy.I look forward to seeing a box by you.Dont hesitate to ask for clarification as needed.


----------



## Cindy

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


So far I find this very enlightening and I am waiting eagerly for part 2. thank you for taking the time to share with all of us at different levels.


----------



## Carolynne

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Yippie!!!


----------



## Kentuk55

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


so very fantastic Andy. just awesome!! ALL of em


----------



## tyka

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Thank you for doing this Andy. I never made a box this size before; love all your beautiful awesome designs. Selft-taught woodworker until I start following your tutorial LOL. BTW don't think twice about conventional methods, the one's that work are the best.


----------



## therookie

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


great start continuing the blog


----------



## DullChiselDoug

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Thank you for sharing your talent with us. I'm very grateful!


----------



## Ken90712

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Looking fwd to reading all of these, Thx Andy!


----------



## parkerdude

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Hi Andy,

I just had a thought.

I saw a guy here in St. Louis, MO., who was selling a nice variety of boxes. What caught my eye was a table of boxes that I identified as YOUR design.

What I wondered was, could that have been you selling those boxes in the "Clayton Craft Fair" in 2009 or 2010?

I didn't pay close attention to the guy's face, he had a kind of Safari Suit with one of those Aussie style hats with one side of the brim turned up.

Was that you?

Anyway, thanks for all the posts, they keep us real and focused on our craft.

later,


----------



## Bertha

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Subscribed!


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


@Parkerdude- Wasnt me….at least I dont think so 
I dont even own a safari suit.


----------



## adam502

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Awesome looking boxes! Can't wait to start!


----------



## EdGF

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


amazing, I can't wait to try it


----------



## Blackberry

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


Added to favorites


----------



## CortezWoodworking

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


I'm new here but Andy your work stands out among the many jocks here. Thanks for taking the time to write this tutorial.


----------



## dillonca

Argyllshire said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> How to make an Art Box
> 
> by Andy Campbell
> 
> *Safety*
> 
> Be safe! Guards, etc…may not be visible in the pictures. This is written for woodworkers of all skill levels.
> But, please keep in mind that this is not woodworking #101. I am writing this in a step by step manner that should be easy for a beginner to follow, but some basic understanding of tools and terminology is required.
> I ask that the more advanced woodworkers be patient and not be offended. I don't wish to test your patience or appear to be condescending…just helpful to a mixed audience. I have my own way of doing things, but as a self taught woodworker, some of them are unconventional. I am not trying to teach you how to do things my way, but just showing you how I do things. Do each step in a way YOU are comfortable with.
> 
> Style
> Definition of Art Box -A box with a medallion in the lid that resembles a picture in a frame. The body and lid may be shaped or not.
> Let's take a look at a few styles, each with a slightly different lid and hinge set up. Note how the shaping varies on each one.
> 1) The first one hinges on brass pins allowing it to swing down into the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) The main difference here is that the lid sets into a lip of the box body on only three sides. It uses barrel hinges so it does not drop into the box at the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) This box is very different from the other two. It has a frame and panel style top, uses butt style hinges and does not set into a lip at all. The lid is sliced off the box after assembly. It uses butt style hinges. The shaping is very different and the bottom was raised up enough to allow cutouts to add a footed look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The construction is very similar for all of these boxes, but at a certain point they head off into their own direction.
> 
> The Chapters will cover the following:
> #1- Introduction
> #2- Wood Selection
> #3- Making the Box
> #4- Corner Splines
> #5- Cutting the Lip of the Box
> #6- The Lid
> #7- The Medallion
> #8- The Handle
> #9- It all Hinges on This
> #10-The Pin Hinge
> #11-Butt or Barrel Hinges
> #12-Shaping
> #13-Finishing
> #14-Dividers
> 
> Andy


You do amazing work!


----------



## Argyllshire

*Wood selection*

Updated 1/15/12

The "Art Box" concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame.
Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it off.

Consider

A) What YOU find appealing, which is totally subjective.
B) How you want to do the top, e.g., medallion or not, and type of hinges.
C) What material you either have on hand or have access to.
Here are two different approaches.
A) Contrasting the color or grain, or both between the body and the medallion is very eye catching.
B) Alternately, a tone on tone approach can evoke a calming effect, or in the right combination, it might even feel masculine.
Some suggestions
• A light colored wood such as maple for the sides and top and a figured piece of myrtle for the medallion is stunning.
• On the other hand, a darker body out of wenge works well with ziricote for the medallion. 
• For a tone on tone effect, try using plain walnut for the body and figured walnut for the medallion.
Tip
To see how two woods look together, wet them with mineral spirits and lay one over the other, this brings out the color and does not raise the grain like water. Just lay one on the other to see if you like the effect.

Grain Matching
The body and top should to be out of the same board if at all possible so the color and grain match closely.
If you are using a figured wood and want the grain to appear to run contiguous from the face and up over the top, then you will need a wider board of about 11''. (That's how I did the Bad Moon secret box)
This isn't always necessary, as when using straight grained lumber, or when a lot of shaping is done, the shaping grinds away the top layer of matching grain anyway.
Parts

A. Body - For a contiguous look, matching the grain of the body with the top, 
you will need a board about ¾ × 11×40.
B. Body - To grain match the body only, select a board about ¾ x 4 × 40
and a separate piece for the top about ¾ x 7 × 11
C. 
Medallion- ¾ × 5×8
D. 
Corner splines - I often rip these out of the same board as the medallion. You may wish to go for a stronger contrast. Play around and see what works best with your woods.

E. Handle - This will often come from the same board as the medallion or a scrap of wild figured wood.

F. Dividers - After I have completed the box, I work on the design for the dividers. I prefer to make a visual statement by matching them to the medallion or contrasting them with the body color.

Note. 
There will not be a typical cut list for this box. You will cut parts for the body and size the bottom from that, and after you assemble the body, you will cut and fit the lid, and so on…
A sacrificial box
Depending on your skill level, and how clear my instructions are, I recommend making a second box out of an inexpensive wood, such as poplar or clear pine. This will give you a test subject for each set up. There are several steps where you may feel more comfortable practicing on wood that is less dear to you.
The first thing I do is mark out each part, showing its relationship to the others. This insures that each one gets cut in the proper sequence and is reassembled in order.










Note:
You may skip this part if you are using an even grained/colored wood or making a test box. However, it's a good idea to get in the habit of paying attention to grain orientation.
I will be using this piece of bubinga for the body and lid of my box.


----------



## Ossian

Argyllshire said:


> *Wood selection*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> The "Art Box" concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame.
> Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it off.
> 
> Consider
> 
> A) What YOU find appealing, which is totally subjective.
> B) How you want to do the top, e.g., medallion or not, and type of hinges.
> C) What material you either have on hand or have access to.
> Here are two different approaches.
> A) Contrasting the color or grain, or both between the body and the medallion is very eye catching.
> B) Alternately, a tone on tone approach can evoke a calming effect, or in the right combination, it might even feel masculine.
> Some suggestions
> • A light colored wood such as maple for the sides and top and a figured piece of myrtle for the medallion is stunning.
> • On the other hand, a darker body out of wenge works well with ziricote for the medallion.
> • For a tone on tone effect, try using plain walnut for the body and figured walnut for the medallion.
> Tip
> To see how two woods look together, wet them with mineral spirits and lay one over the other, this brings out the color and does not raise the grain like water. Just lay one on the other to see if you like the effect.
> 
> Grain Matching
> The body and top should to be out of the same board if at all possible so the color and grain match closely.
> If you are using a figured wood and want the grain to appear to run contiguous from the face and up over the top, then you will need a wider board of about 11''. (That's how I did the Bad Moon secret box)
> This isn't always necessary, as when using straight grained lumber, or when a lot of shaping is done, the shaping grinds away the top layer of matching grain anyway.
> Parts
> 
> A. Body - For a contiguous look, matching the grain of the body with the top,
> you will need a board about ¾ × 11×40.
> B. Body - To grain match the body only, select a board about ¾ x 4 × 40
> and a separate piece for the top about ¾ x 7 × 11
> C.
> Medallion- ¾ × 5×8
> D.
> Corner splines - I often rip these out of the same board as the medallion. You may wish to go for a stronger contrast. Play around and see what works best with your woods.
> 
> E. Handle - This will often come from the same board as the medallion or a scrap of wild figured wood.
> 
> F. Dividers - After I have completed the box, I work on the design for the dividers. I prefer to make a visual statement by matching them to the medallion or contrasting them with the body color.
> 
> Note.
> There will not be a typical cut list for this box. You will cut parts for the body and size the bottom from that, and after you assemble the body, you will cut and fit the lid, and so on…
> A sacrificial box
> Depending on your skill level, and how clear my instructions are, I recommend making a second box out of an inexpensive wood, such as poplar or clear pine. This will give you a test subject for each set up. There are several steps where you may feel more comfortable practicing on wood that is less dear to you.
> The first thing I do is mark out each part, showing its relationship to the others. This insures that each one gets cut in the proper sequence and is reassembled in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note:
> You may skip this part if you are using an even grained/colored wood or making a test box. However, it's a good idea to get in the habit of paying attention to grain orientation.
> I will be using this piece of bubinga for the body and lid of my box.


Excellent! I've most of the materials I need already on hand.


----------



## Kindlingmaker

Argyllshire said:


> *Wood selection*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> The "Art Box" concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame.
> Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it off.
> 
> Consider
> 
> A) What YOU find appealing, which is totally subjective.
> B) How you want to do the top, e.g., medallion or not, and type of hinges.
> C) What material you either have on hand or have access to.
> Here are two different approaches.
> A) Contrasting the color or grain, or both between the body and the medallion is very eye catching.
> B) Alternately, a tone on tone approach can evoke a calming effect, or in the right combination, it might even feel masculine.
> Some suggestions
> • A light colored wood such as maple for the sides and top and a figured piece of myrtle for the medallion is stunning.
> • On the other hand, a darker body out of wenge works well with ziricote for the medallion.
> • For a tone on tone effect, try using plain walnut for the body and figured walnut for the medallion.
> Tip
> To see how two woods look together, wet them with mineral spirits and lay one over the other, this brings out the color and does not raise the grain like water. Just lay one on the other to see if you like the effect.
> 
> Grain Matching
> The body and top should to be out of the same board if at all possible so the color and grain match closely.
> If you are using a figured wood and want the grain to appear to run contiguous from the face and up over the top, then you will need a wider board of about 11''. (That's how I did the Bad Moon secret box)
> This isn't always necessary, as when using straight grained lumber, or when a lot of shaping is done, the shaping grinds away the top layer of matching grain anyway.
> Parts
> 
> A. Body - For a contiguous look, matching the grain of the body with the top,
> you will need a board about ¾ × 11×40.
> B. Body - To grain match the body only, select a board about ¾ x 4 × 40
> and a separate piece for the top about ¾ x 7 × 11
> C.
> Medallion- ¾ × 5×8
> D.
> Corner splines - I often rip these out of the same board as the medallion. You may wish to go for a stronger contrast. Play around and see what works best with your woods.
> 
> E. Handle - This will often come from the same board as the medallion or a scrap of wild figured wood.
> 
> F. Dividers - After I have completed the box, I work on the design for the dividers. I prefer to make a visual statement by matching them to the medallion or contrasting them with the body color.
> 
> Note.
> There will not be a typical cut list for this box. You will cut parts for the body and size the bottom from that, and after you assemble the body, you will cut and fit the lid, and so on…
> A sacrificial box
> Depending on your skill level, and how clear my instructions are, I recommend making a second box out of an inexpensive wood, such as poplar or clear pine. This will give you a test subject for each set up. There are several steps where you may feel more comfortable practicing on wood that is less dear to you.
> The first thing I do is mark out each part, showing its relationship to the others. This insures that each one gets cut in the proper sequence and is reassembled in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note:
> You may skip this part if you are using an even grained/colored wood or making a test box. However, it's a good idea to get in the habit of paying attention to grain orientation.
> I will be using this piece of bubinga for the body and lid of my box.


...gett'n ready!


----------



## degoose

Argyllshire said:


> *Wood selection*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> The "Art Box" concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame.
> Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it off.
> 
> Consider
> 
> A) What YOU find appealing, which is totally subjective.
> B) How you want to do the top, e.g., medallion or not, and type of hinges.
> C) What material you either have on hand or have access to.
> Here are two different approaches.
> A) Contrasting the color or grain, or both between the body and the medallion is very eye catching.
> B) Alternately, a tone on tone approach can evoke a calming effect, or in the right combination, it might even feel masculine.
> Some suggestions
> • A light colored wood such as maple for the sides and top and a figured piece of myrtle for the medallion is stunning.
> • On the other hand, a darker body out of wenge works well with ziricote for the medallion.
> • For a tone on tone effect, try using plain walnut for the body and figured walnut for the medallion.
> Tip
> To see how two woods look together, wet them with mineral spirits and lay one over the other, this brings out the color and does not raise the grain like water. Just lay one on the other to see if you like the effect.
> 
> Grain Matching
> The body and top should to be out of the same board if at all possible so the color and grain match closely.
> If you are using a figured wood and want the grain to appear to run contiguous from the face and up over the top, then you will need a wider board of about 11''. (That's how I did the Bad Moon secret box)
> This isn't always necessary, as when using straight grained lumber, or when a lot of shaping is done, the shaping grinds away the top layer of matching grain anyway.
> Parts
> 
> A. Body - For a contiguous look, matching the grain of the body with the top,
> you will need a board about ¾ × 11×40.
> B. Body - To grain match the body only, select a board about ¾ x 4 × 40
> and a separate piece for the top about ¾ x 7 × 11
> C.
> Medallion- ¾ × 5×8
> D.
> Corner splines - I often rip these out of the same board as the medallion. You may wish to go for a stronger contrast. Play around and see what works best with your woods.
> 
> E. Handle - This will often come from the same board as the medallion or a scrap of wild figured wood.
> 
> F. Dividers - After I have completed the box, I work on the design for the dividers. I prefer to make a visual statement by matching them to the medallion or contrasting them with the body color.
> 
> Note.
> There will not be a typical cut list for this box. You will cut parts for the body and size the bottom from that, and after you assemble the body, you will cut and fit the lid, and so on…
> A sacrificial box
> Depending on your skill level, and how clear my instructions are, I recommend making a second box out of an inexpensive wood, such as poplar or clear pine. This will give you a test subject for each set up. There are several steps where you may feel more comfortable practicing on wood that is less dear to you.
> The first thing I do is mark out each part, showing its relationship to the others. This insures that each one gets cut in the proper sequence and is reassembled in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note:
> You may skip this part if you are using an even grained/colored wood or making a test box. However, it's a good idea to get in the habit of paying attention to grain orientation.
> I will be using this piece of bubinga for the body and lid of my box.


So far so good. Well written and well thought out, I just wish I could write as well as you make boxes or make boxes as well as you write.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Wood selection*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> The "Art Box" concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame.
> Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it off.
> 
> Consider
> 
> A) What YOU find appealing, which is totally subjective.
> B) How you want to do the top, e.g., medallion or not, and type of hinges.
> C) What material you either have on hand or have access to.
> Here are two different approaches.
> A) Contrasting the color or grain, or both between the body and the medallion is very eye catching.
> B) Alternately, a tone on tone approach can evoke a calming effect, or in the right combination, it might even feel masculine.
> Some suggestions
> • A light colored wood such as maple for the sides and top and a figured piece of myrtle for the medallion is stunning.
> • On the other hand, a darker body out of wenge works well with ziricote for the medallion.
> • For a tone on tone effect, try using plain walnut for the body and figured walnut for the medallion.
> Tip
> To see how two woods look together, wet them with mineral spirits and lay one over the other, this brings out the color and does not raise the grain like water. Just lay one on the other to see if you like the effect.
> 
> Grain Matching
> The body and top should to be out of the same board if at all possible so the color and grain match closely.
> If you are using a figured wood and want the grain to appear to run contiguous from the face and up over the top, then you will need a wider board of about 11''. (That's how I did the Bad Moon secret box)
> This isn't always necessary, as when using straight grained lumber, or when a lot of shaping is done, the shaping grinds away the top layer of matching grain anyway.
> Parts
> 
> A. Body - For a contiguous look, matching the grain of the body with the top,
> you will need a board about ¾ × 11×40.
> B. Body - To grain match the body only, select a board about ¾ x 4 × 40
> and a separate piece for the top about ¾ x 7 × 11
> C.
> Medallion- ¾ × 5×8
> D.
> Corner splines - I often rip these out of the same board as the medallion. You may wish to go for a stronger contrast. Play around and see what works best with your woods.
> 
> E. Handle - This will often come from the same board as the medallion or a scrap of wild figured wood.
> 
> F. Dividers - After I have completed the box, I work on the design for the dividers. I prefer to make a visual statement by matching them to the medallion or contrasting them with the body color.
> 
> Note.
> There will not be a typical cut list for this box. You will cut parts for the body and size the bottom from that, and after you assemble the body, you will cut and fit the lid, and so on…
> A sacrificial box
> Depending on your skill level, and how clear my instructions are, I recommend making a second box out of an inexpensive wood, such as poplar or clear pine. This will give you a test subject for each set up. There are several steps where you may feel more comfortable practicing on wood that is less dear to you.
> The first thing I do is mark out each part, showing its relationship to the others. This insures that each one gets cut in the proper sequence and is reassembled in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note:
> You may skip this part if you are using an even grained/colored wood or making a test box. However, it's a good idea to get in the habit of paying attention to grain orientation.
> I will be using this piece of bubinga for the body and lid of my box.


Thanks for the support everyone!
@Degoose-thats a nice compliment.It doesnt come naturally,believe me,but I just stay with it until it looks about right.ha


----------



## cabinetmaster

Argyllshire said:


> *Wood selection*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> The "Art Box" concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame.
> Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it off.
> 
> Consider
> 
> A) What YOU find appealing, which is totally subjective.
> B) How you want to do the top, e.g., medallion or not, and type of hinges.
> C) What material you either have on hand or have access to.
> Here are two different approaches.
> A) Contrasting the color or grain, or both between the body and the medallion is very eye catching.
> B) Alternately, a tone on tone approach can evoke a calming effect, or in the right combination, it might even feel masculine.
> Some suggestions
> • A light colored wood such as maple for the sides and top and a figured piece of myrtle for the medallion is stunning.
> • On the other hand, a darker body out of wenge works well with ziricote for the medallion.
> • For a tone on tone effect, try using plain walnut for the body and figured walnut for the medallion.
> Tip
> To see how two woods look together, wet them with mineral spirits and lay one over the other, this brings out the color and does not raise the grain like water. Just lay one on the other to see if you like the effect.
> 
> Grain Matching
> The body and top should to be out of the same board if at all possible so the color and grain match closely.
> If you are using a figured wood and want the grain to appear to run contiguous from the face and up over the top, then you will need a wider board of about 11''. (That's how I did the Bad Moon secret box)
> This isn't always necessary, as when using straight grained lumber, or when a lot of shaping is done, the shaping grinds away the top layer of matching grain anyway.
> Parts
> 
> A. Body - For a contiguous look, matching the grain of the body with the top,
> you will need a board about ¾ × 11×40.
> B. Body - To grain match the body only, select a board about ¾ x 4 × 40
> and a separate piece for the top about ¾ x 7 × 11
> C.
> Medallion- ¾ × 5×8
> D.
> Corner splines - I often rip these out of the same board as the medallion. You may wish to go for a stronger contrast. Play around and see what works best with your woods.
> 
> E. Handle - This will often come from the same board as the medallion or a scrap of wild figured wood.
> 
> F. Dividers - After I have completed the box, I work on the design for the dividers. I prefer to make a visual statement by matching them to the medallion or contrasting them with the body color.
> 
> Note.
> There will not be a typical cut list for this box. You will cut parts for the body and size the bottom from that, and after you assemble the body, you will cut and fit the lid, and so on…
> A sacrificial box
> Depending on your skill level, and how clear my instructions are, I recommend making a second box out of an inexpensive wood, such as poplar or clear pine. This will give you a test subject for each set up. There are several steps where you may feel more comfortable practicing on wood that is less dear to you.
> The first thing I do is mark out each part, showing its relationship to the others. This insures that each one gets cut in the proper sequence and is reassembled in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note:
> You may skip this part if you are using an even grained/colored wood or making a test box. However, it's a good idea to get in the habit of paying attention to grain orientation.
> I will be using this piece of bubinga for the body and lid of my box.


Getting my supplies ready. getting hot in here though.


----------



## FatherHooligan

Argyllshire said:


> *Wood selection*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> The "Art Box" concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame.
> Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it off.
> 
> Consider
> 
> A) What YOU find appealing, which is totally subjective.
> B) How you want to do the top, e.g., medallion or not, and type of hinges.
> C) What material you either have on hand or have access to.
> Here are two different approaches.
> A) Contrasting the color or grain, or both between the body and the medallion is very eye catching.
> B) Alternately, a tone on tone approach can evoke a calming effect, or in the right combination, it might even feel masculine.
> Some suggestions
> • A light colored wood such as maple for the sides and top and a figured piece of myrtle for the medallion is stunning.
> • On the other hand, a darker body out of wenge works well with ziricote for the medallion.
> • For a tone on tone effect, try using plain walnut for the body and figured walnut for the medallion.
> Tip
> To see how two woods look together, wet them with mineral spirits and lay one over the other, this brings out the color and does not raise the grain like water. Just lay one on the other to see if you like the effect.
> 
> Grain Matching
> The body and top should to be out of the same board if at all possible so the color and grain match closely.
> If you are using a figured wood and want the grain to appear to run contiguous from the face and up over the top, then you will need a wider board of about 11''. (That's how I did the Bad Moon secret box)
> This isn't always necessary, as when using straight grained lumber, or when a lot of shaping is done, the shaping grinds away the top layer of matching grain anyway.
> Parts
> 
> A. Body - For a contiguous look, matching the grain of the body with the top,
> you will need a board about ¾ × 11×40.
> B. Body - To grain match the body only, select a board about ¾ x 4 × 40
> and a separate piece for the top about ¾ x 7 × 11
> C.
> Medallion- ¾ × 5×8
> D.
> Corner splines - I often rip these out of the same board as the medallion. You may wish to go for a stronger contrast. Play around and see what works best with your woods.
> 
> E. Handle - This will often come from the same board as the medallion or a scrap of wild figured wood.
> 
> F. Dividers - After I have completed the box, I work on the design for the dividers. I prefer to make a visual statement by matching them to the medallion or contrasting them with the body color.
> 
> Note.
> There will not be a typical cut list for this box. You will cut parts for the body and size the bottom from that, and after you assemble the body, you will cut and fit the lid, and so on…
> A sacrificial box
> Depending on your skill level, and how clear my instructions are, I recommend making a second box out of an inexpensive wood, such as poplar or clear pine. This will give you a test subject for each set up. There are several steps where you may feel more comfortable practicing on wood that is less dear to you.
> The first thing I do is mark out each part, showing its relationship to the others. This insures that each one gets cut in the proper sequence and is reassembled in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note:
> You may skip this part if you are using an even grained/colored wood or making a test box. However, it's a good idea to get in the habit of paying attention to grain orientation.
> I will be using this piece of bubinga for the body and lid of my box.


A really well laid out plan, thanks for putting this together. I've got to go find some wood…..!


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Wood selection*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> The "Art Box" concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame.
> Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it off.
> 
> Consider
> 
> A) What YOU find appealing, which is totally subjective.
> B) How you want to do the top, e.g., medallion or not, and type of hinges.
> C) What material you either have on hand or have access to.
> Here are two different approaches.
> A) Contrasting the color or grain, or both between the body and the medallion is very eye catching.
> B) Alternately, a tone on tone approach can evoke a calming effect, or in the right combination, it might even feel masculine.
> Some suggestions
> • A light colored wood such as maple for the sides and top and a figured piece of myrtle for the medallion is stunning.
> • On the other hand, a darker body out of wenge works well with ziricote for the medallion.
> • For a tone on tone effect, try using plain walnut for the body and figured walnut for the medallion.
> Tip
> To see how two woods look together, wet them with mineral spirits and lay one over the other, this brings out the color and does not raise the grain like water. Just lay one on the other to see if you like the effect.
> 
> Grain Matching
> The body and top should to be out of the same board if at all possible so the color and grain match closely.
> If you are using a figured wood and want the grain to appear to run contiguous from the face and up over the top, then you will need a wider board of about 11''. (That's how I did the Bad Moon secret box)
> This isn't always necessary, as when using straight grained lumber, or when a lot of shaping is done, the shaping grinds away the top layer of matching grain anyway.
> Parts
> 
> A. Body - For a contiguous look, matching the grain of the body with the top,
> you will need a board about ¾ × 11×40.
> B. Body - To grain match the body only, select a board about ¾ x 4 × 40
> and a separate piece for the top about ¾ x 7 × 11
> C.
> Medallion- ¾ × 5×8
> D.
> Corner splines - I often rip these out of the same board as the medallion. You may wish to go for a stronger contrast. Play around and see what works best with your woods.
> 
> E. Handle - This will often come from the same board as the medallion or a scrap of wild figured wood.
> 
> F. Dividers - After I have completed the box, I work on the design for the dividers. I prefer to make a visual statement by matching them to the medallion or contrasting them with the body color.
> 
> Note.
> There will not be a typical cut list for this box. You will cut parts for the body and size the bottom from that, and after you assemble the body, you will cut and fit the lid, and so on…
> A sacrificial box
> Depending on your skill level, and how clear my instructions are, I recommend making a second box out of an inexpensive wood, such as poplar or clear pine. This will give you a test subject for each set up. There are several steps where you may feel more comfortable practicing on wood that is less dear to you.
> The first thing I do is mark out each part, showing its relationship to the others. This insures that each one gets cut in the proper sequence and is reassembled in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note:
> You may skip this part if you are using an even grained/colored wood or making a test box. However, it's a good idea to get in the habit of paying attention to grain orientation.
> I will be using this piece of bubinga for the body and lid of my box.


Here is the next part.
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/9773


----------



## Karson

Argyllshire said:


> *Wood selection*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> The "Art Box" concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame.
> Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it off.
> 
> Consider
> 
> A) What YOU find appealing, which is totally subjective.
> B) How you want to do the top, e.g., medallion or not, and type of hinges.
> C) What material you either have on hand or have access to.
> Here are two different approaches.
> A) Contrasting the color or grain, or both between the body and the medallion is very eye catching.
> B) Alternately, a tone on tone approach can evoke a calming effect, or in the right combination, it might even feel masculine.
> Some suggestions
> • A light colored wood such as maple for the sides and top and a figured piece of myrtle for the medallion is stunning.
> • On the other hand, a darker body out of wenge works well with ziricote for the medallion.
> • For a tone on tone effect, try using plain walnut for the body and figured walnut for the medallion.
> Tip
> To see how two woods look together, wet them with mineral spirits and lay one over the other, this brings out the color and does not raise the grain like water. Just lay one on the other to see if you like the effect.
> 
> Grain Matching
> The body and top should to be out of the same board if at all possible so the color and grain match closely.
> If you are using a figured wood and want the grain to appear to run contiguous from the face and up over the top, then you will need a wider board of about 11''. (That's how I did the Bad Moon secret box)
> This isn't always necessary, as when using straight grained lumber, or when a lot of shaping is done, the shaping grinds away the top layer of matching grain anyway.
> Parts
> 
> A. Body - For a contiguous look, matching the grain of the body with the top,
> you will need a board about ¾ × 11×40.
> B. Body - To grain match the body only, select a board about ¾ x 4 × 40
> and a separate piece for the top about ¾ x 7 × 11
> C.
> Medallion- ¾ × 5×8
> D.
> Corner splines - I often rip these out of the same board as the medallion. You may wish to go for a stronger contrast. Play around and see what works best with your woods.
> 
> E. Handle - This will often come from the same board as the medallion or a scrap of wild figured wood.
> 
> F. Dividers - After I have completed the box, I work on the design for the dividers. I prefer to make a visual statement by matching them to the medallion or contrasting them with the body color.
> 
> Note.
> There will not be a typical cut list for this box. You will cut parts for the body and size the bottom from that, and after you assemble the body, you will cut and fit the lid, and so on…
> A sacrificial box
> Depending on your skill level, and how clear my instructions are, I recommend making a second box out of an inexpensive wood, such as poplar or clear pine. This will give you a test subject for each set up. There are several steps where you may feel more comfortable practicing on wood that is less dear to you.
> The first thing I do is mark out each part, showing its relationship to the others. This insures that each one gets cut in the proper sequence and is reassembled in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note:
> You may skip this part if you are using an even grained/colored wood or making a test box. However, it's a good idea to get in the habit of paying attention to grain orientation.
> I will be using this piece of bubinga for the body and lid of my box.


Thanks for the tutorial.


----------



## ratchet

Argyllshire said:


> *Wood selection*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> The "Art Box" concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame.
> Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it off.
> 
> Consider
> 
> A) What YOU find appealing, which is totally subjective.
> B) How you want to do the top, e.g., medallion or not, and type of hinges.
> C) What material you either have on hand or have access to.
> Here are two different approaches.
> A) Contrasting the color or grain, or both between the body and the medallion is very eye catching.
> B) Alternately, a tone on tone approach can evoke a calming effect, or in the right combination, it might even feel masculine.
> Some suggestions
> • A light colored wood such as maple for the sides and top and a figured piece of myrtle for the medallion is stunning.
> • On the other hand, a darker body out of wenge works well with ziricote for the medallion.
> • For a tone on tone effect, try using plain walnut for the body and figured walnut for the medallion.
> Tip
> To see how two woods look together, wet them with mineral spirits and lay one over the other, this brings out the color and does not raise the grain like water. Just lay one on the other to see if you like the effect.
> 
> Grain Matching
> The body and top should to be out of the same board if at all possible so the color and grain match closely.
> If you are using a figured wood and want the grain to appear to run contiguous from the face and up over the top, then you will need a wider board of about 11''. (That's how I did the Bad Moon secret box)
> This isn't always necessary, as when using straight grained lumber, or when a lot of shaping is done, the shaping grinds away the top layer of matching grain anyway.
> Parts
> 
> A. Body - For a contiguous look, matching the grain of the body with the top,
> you will need a board about ¾ × 11×40.
> B. Body - To grain match the body only, select a board about ¾ x 4 × 40
> and a separate piece for the top about ¾ x 7 × 11
> C.
> Medallion- ¾ × 5×8
> D.
> Corner splines - I often rip these out of the same board as the medallion. You may wish to go for a stronger contrast. Play around and see what works best with your woods.
> 
> E. Handle - This will often come from the same board as the medallion or a scrap of wild figured wood.
> 
> F. Dividers - After I have completed the box, I work on the design for the dividers. I prefer to make a visual statement by matching them to the medallion or contrasting them with the body color.
> 
> Note.
> There will not be a typical cut list for this box. You will cut parts for the body and size the bottom from that, and after you assemble the body, you will cut and fit the lid, and so on…
> A sacrificial box
> Depending on your skill level, and how clear my instructions are, I recommend making a second box out of an inexpensive wood, such as poplar or clear pine. This will give you a test subject for each set up. There are several steps where you may feel more comfortable practicing on wood that is less dear to you.
> The first thing I do is mark out each part, showing its relationship to the others. This insures that each one gets cut in the proper sequence and is reassembled in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note:
> You may skip this part if you are using an even grained/colored wood or making a test box. However, it's a good idea to get in the habit of paying attention to grain orientation.
> I will be using this piece of bubinga for the body and lid of my box.


I'm still late, but still in. I'm looking for wood now.


----------



## therookie

Argyllshire said:


> *Wood selection*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> The "Art Box" concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame.
> Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it off.
> 
> Consider
> 
> A) What YOU find appealing, which is totally subjective.
> B) How you want to do the top, e.g., medallion or not, and type of hinges.
> C) What material you either have on hand or have access to.
> Here are two different approaches.
> A) Contrasting the color or grain, or both between the body and the medallion is very eye catching.
> B) Alternately, a tone on tone approach can evoke a calming effect, or in the right combination, it might even feel masculine.
> Some suggestions
> • A light colored wood such as maple for the sides and top and a figured piece of myrtle for the medallion is stunning.
> • On the other hand, a darker body out of wenge works well with ziricote for the medallion.
> • For a tone on tone effect, try using plain walnut for the body and figured walnut for the medallion.
> Tip
> To see how two woods look together, wet them with mineral spirits and lay one over the other, this brings out the color and does not raise the grain like water. Just lay one on the other to see if you like the effect.
> 
> Grain Matching
> The body and top should to be out of the same board if at all possible so the color and grain match closely.
> If you are using a figured wood and want the grain to appear to run contiguous from the face and up over the top, then you will need a wider board of about 11''. (That's how I did the Bad Moon secret box)
> This isn't always necessary, as when using straight grained lumber, or when a lot of shaping is done, the shaping grinds away the top layer of matching grain anyway.
> Parts
> 
> A. Body - For a contiguous look, matching the grain of the body with the top,
> you will need a board about ¾ × 11×40.
> B. Body - To grain match the body only, select a board about ¾ x 4 × 40
> and a separate piece for the top about ¾ x 7 × 11
> C.
> Medallion- ¾ × 5×8
> D.
> Corner splines - I often rip these out of the same board as the medallion. You may wish to go for a stronger contrast. Play around and see what works best with your woods.
> 
> E. Handle - This will often come from the same board as the medallion or a scrap of wild figured wood.
> 
> F. Dividers - After I have completed the box, I work on the design for the dividers. I prefer to make a visual statement by matching them to the medallion or contrasting them with the body color.
> 
> Note.
> There will not be a typical cut list for this box. You will cut parts for the body and size the bottom from that, and after you assemble the body, you will cut and fit the lid, and so on…
> A sacrificial box
> Depending on your skill level, and how clear my instructions are, I recommend making a second box out of an inexpensive wood, such as poplar or clear pine. This will give you a test subject for each set up. There are several steps where you may feel more comfortable practicing on wood that is less dear to you.
> The first thing I do is mark out each part, showing its relationship to the others. This insures that each one gets cut in the proper sequence and is reassembled in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note:
> You may skip this part if you are using an even grained/colored wood or making a test box. However, it's a good idea to get in the habit of paying attention to grain orientation.
> I will be using this piece of bubinga for the body and lid of my box.


awsome


----------



## Ken90712

Argyllshire said:


> *Wood selection*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> The "Art Box" concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame.
> Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it off.
> 
> Consider
> 
> A) What YOU find appealing, which is totally subjective.
> B) How you want to do the top, e.g., medallion or not, and type of hinges.
> C) What material you either have on hand or have access to.
> Here are two different approaches.
> A) Contrasting the color or grain, or both between the body and the medallion is very eye catching.
> B) Alternately, a tone on tone approach can evoke a calming effect, or in the right combination, it might even feel masculine.
> Some suggestions
> • A light colored wood such as maple for the sides and top and a figured piece of myrtle for the medallion is stunning.
> • On the other hand, a darker body out of wenge works well with ziricote for the medallion.
> • For a tone on tone effect, try using plain walnut for the body and figured walnut for the medallion.
> Tip
> To see how two woods look together, wet them with mineral spirits and lay one over the other, this brings out the color and does not raise the grain like water. Just lay one on the other to see if you like the effect.
> 
> Grain Matching
> The body and top should to be out of the same board if at all possible so the color and grain match closely.
> If you are using a figured wood and want the grain to appear to run contiguous from the face and up over the top, then you will need a wider board of about 11''. (That's how I did the Bad Moon secret box)
> This isn't always necessary, as when using straight grained lumber, or when a lot of shaping is done, the shaping grinds away the top layer of matching grain anyway.
> Parts
> 
> A. Body - For a contiguous look, matching the grain of the body with the top,
> you will need a board about ¾ × 11×40.
> B. Body - To grain match the body only, select a board about ¾ x 4 × 40
> and a separate piece for the top about ¾ x 7 × 11
> C.
> Medallion- ¾ × 5×8
> D.
> Corner splines - I often rip these out of the same board as the medallion. You may wish to go for a stronger contrast. Play around and see what works best with your woods.
> 
> E. Handle - This will often come from the same board as the medallion or a scrap of wild figured wood.
> 
> F. Dividers - After I have completed the box, I work on the design for the dividers. I prefer to make a visual statement by matching them to the medallion or contrasting them with the body color.
> 
> Note.
> There will not be a typical cut list for this box. You will cut parts for the body and size the bottom from that, and after you assemble the body, you will cut and fit the lid, and so on…
> A sacrificial box
> Depending on your skill level, and how clear my instructions are, I recommend making a second box out of an inexpensive wood, such as poplar or clear pine. This will give you a test subject for each set up. There are several steps where you may feel more comfortable practicing on wood that is less dear to you.
> The first thing I do is mark out each part, showing its relationship to the others. This insures that each one gets cut in the proper sequence and is reassembled in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note:
> You may skip this part if you are using an even grained/colored wood or making a test box. However, it's a good idea to get in the habit of paying attention to grain orientation.
> I will be using this piece of bubinga for the body and lid of my box.


Very well written, I like it.


----------



## Argyllshire

*Making the box*

Part 3
updated 1/15/12

Regarding size:
Size and proportions are important…to a point. 
We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)

I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.

The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.

But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.

*Lets start cutting some wood.*

Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.










Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.










Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.

The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop. 
The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.










Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.










The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.










Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.

As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.

*Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*










*Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.

This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.










This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.










*Next*, 
we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.

Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)










NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.

*Bottoms Up*
When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.

*Be prepared.*
This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
Have a damp rag at hand for drips.

Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.

Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape. 
Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.

Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._










Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


----------



## Karson

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


nice job on the tutorial.


----------



## DanYo

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


thanks … I'm taking it all in …. very well done instructions, almost like a text book


----------



## pommy

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


thanks for the tip on second box your just to good at this teaching thing i hold on to your every word


----------



## sbryan55

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Andy, this is a pretty good tutorial. It is easily followed, concise, and well-documented.


----------



## Russel

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Nicely done. That's a pretty slick jig for your saw.


----------



## Radish

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Thumbs up…on to step 4. Thanks again, Andy.


----------



## scrappy

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Just read through all 3 of your "Art Box Tutorials" You are doing a fantastic job on teachingus your process. It is very concise yet informative. Your use of *BOLD* and italics help do highlight specific points.

Excelent job. CAn't wait to have you finnish this series.

Thank You

Scrappy


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Thank you all for the support.
I am glad its easy to follow,I have spent much time rewriting and whittling away all the unneeded photos and words.

*Bad news!* 
I was recutting the rabbit for the lid to set down into,and I ruined the box.Arrrggg!!!
Here is the way it should look.


And here is the major malfunction that even the most expensive putty cant fix.
Artsy as it may be,I dont see any way to incorporate this new ledge into the design.
It was my own dumb fault too.I was trying to cut the lip a little deeper for the lid to set lower because the hinge pin was not going to land into the meaty part of the lid.I had mistakenly cut the rabbit only 3/8 deep instead of 1/2.I just was thinking clearly.The bearing for the rabbit bit needs something to ride against and that section had already been milled away when I cut the pockets.



Oh well.No need kicking myself too hard.I will always remember this and therefore have learned a good lesson.
I would rather kiss a duck than start over at this point,but…
I promptly went ahead and made another box.It took me about 30 minutes to plane the new board,rip it to size,miter all 4 sides,cut the bottom,and glue it up.Its drying now,and it will take me another 90 minutes to get it back to where I was when this happened.Fortunately I can still use the lid and medallion,I have already made,so it could have been worse.
I will cut off the top of this box and use it for screws or…something.I have about 4 just like it to keep it company.
Stay tuned to this station,more to come.


----------



## a1Jim

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


very well done


----------



## MsDebbieP

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


this is a great tutorial!


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


And here is #4
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/9789


----------



## moshel

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


one of the best tutorials i have ever read! Thanks!


----------



## ratchet

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


I'm still along for the ride.


----------



## Carolynne

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Eeeeeek! Nice to know that experts can make errors and keep on trucking! Wonderful example for me!


----------



## Kentuk55

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Great tutorial. I've gotta try doin a box or 2 like this. very very kool


----------



## therookie

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


nice looking good


----------



## SPHinTampa

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Of all the cool things on this site, these boxes are still at the top of the list.


----------



## MarkDavisson

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Gasp!!!! I'm returning to my "in-progress" Art Box (my first one) after having to put it aside for the warmer months, and can't remember how to route the cuts for the medallion inlay!

Your tutorial is/was the greatest, Andy, just as it was. And I thank you for it and for the inspiration your boxes have provided to me. But . . . can I ask that you HURRY with your revisions? )


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Sorry!
Yes, the medallions are a bit tricky it seems but they really arent. 
I think you are saying that you have the medallion template figured out, but in case you dont here is a quick summary.

Cut a rectangle shaped scrap the size of your medallion. Just make the medallion a size that looks about right setting on the lid, about an 1 1/2" of lid showing on all edges is a good place to start. Next make a frame from mdf for the router template by butting 4 pieces of it around the medallion blank, this is going to be the guide that your template bit rides against, on the inside of course. Use a top bearing template bit. The template will look like an empty picture frame and the bit will run around the inside, lowered a little at a time to cut the recess for the medallion, about 3/8" deep. The corners will be radiused.

Cut the medallion to the length and width of the recess using the table saw. This will give you a tight fitting rectangle with square corners. You can test the fit by standing it on edge and dropping it into the recess, first by length and then by width. Now to radius the corners. This is the tricky part. I do mine by eye using a disc sander to come close to the line and finish fitting using a sanding block and testing one corner at a time. I orient the direction of how I want the medallion to lay and number each corner of the blank and its matching number on the lid, that way when I shape and test the male corner #1 on the blank with the female corner #1, I keep it all straight as I move on to #2 and so forth.
I mark the radius on each corner using radius templates I got at Woodcraft. Just match it to the inside corner of your recess.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004218/703/Quick-Corner-Four-Pack.aspx 
I used to make a template block the same size as the medallion and double stick it to the real medallion and run it around the bit in a table mounted router, which worked ok but was never quite as tight a fit as I like and any chip out from the bit isnt fixable. So….I use the table saw and a sander and slowly sneak u on the fit.
I hope this helps, 
Andy


----------



## MarkDavisson

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Andy, you're the greatest! This is the exact info I needed! No matter how long and how hard I thought about it, i couldn't remember the part about the 4 pieces of mdf being butted against the four sides of the blank.

Thank you!


----------



## andivearm

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Hi Andy
Sorry, I do not speak English.
Do you can post pictures after 5 lessons.
Your work is wonderful
Greetings from Germany and thanks, Anita


----------



## Ken90712

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Soory about the goof, we all make them well atleast I do! LOL

Great info and class…...


----------



## DanYo

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Hey Andy ! I used your blog to start making this oak box. 
Used my table saw for the miter cuts and my old shopsmith joint-matic for the router work.
Appreciate you posting your methods. I used masking tape for the glue up and it worked great. I also recessed the bottom rather then cutting a groove for the plywood. Glued it and tacked it on with some new old stock copper nails.
I've found some thick ca glue that works great for me so that is another variation. It was completely dry in a few minutes.
Thanks again for your inspiring work.
Regards
Dan'um


















http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/300


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Way to go Dan, I like your style, being flexible is part of being a good woodworker. 
I would like to see your box when its finished.


----------



## Beard

Argyllshire said:


> *Making the box*
> 
> Part 3
> updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding size:
> Size and proportions are important…to a point.
> We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4'' x 6 3/4'' x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.)
> 
> I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in relationship to this box. We multiply Height x GR= Width.
> 
> The height is 3 1/2 plus the lid and medallion add another 3/8 each, for a total of about 4 ¼ for the overall height. We multiply x 1.618 =6.875 and if we multiply that x 1.618 we get 11.125''.
> As you can see this box is very close to the Golden Ratio. After shaping it is going to be a little more off of that ideal, but it is only a guide. It will be up to you to decide what pleases your eye, and for the intended purpose of the box,and the material you have on hand.
> 
> But just so we are all on the same page from start to finish, lets work with these dimensions.
> 
> *Lets start cutting some wood.*
> 
> Make sure your board is flat. Any twist will not allow your mitered corners to come together.
> Start by milling the board to 3/4'' thick.
> Rip a strip 3.5'' wide and 38'' long minimum.
> Orient the grain direction from left to right and mark out your pieces just to be sure you cut each piece in proper order. Its easy to flip the board front to back and miter the wrong side.
> Make sure and mark the front and top of the board for the lid and set it aside for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to cut a dado to receive the bottom. I use 1/4'' plywood and size the kerf to fit the actual thickness, since it varies. I make the kerf about 1/4'' deep which will allow for more shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to miter your 4 box sides. I prefer to use a miter saw with a simple jig to make repeatable cuts.
> There are many ways to get the same results, including a table saw with a sliding cutoff sled. I just prefer this setup because I get great results and its simple.
> 
> The photo below shows cutting a miter using the first stop.
> The saw is always kept at the same position for every cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then flip front to back and trim away just enough to get a full miter, that ensures the grain on the face will continue unbroken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The flip front to back for the next cut using the second stop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a good idea to use backer boards to prevent tearout, but you will need to take that in to account when setting up a jig like this. They will push your board away from the fence which will change where the saw enters your board,making each piece longer. I prefer putting wide masking tape on the entire back. I did not use any here because I just had this 96 tooth sharpened.
> 
> As you can see in this last picture, my cuts dont land on my orientation marks. They are only there to keep me from doing something boneheaded. The preset stops are what determine the length of each cut.
> 
> *Here are all four sides ready to assemble.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we want to temporarily tape the box together so we see how well we did with our miters.
> I either use my table saw fence for a backstop or a board screwed to by bench to keep all the pieces in line for taping them together.
> I use 3/4" yellow masking tape, it really takes the strain and doesnt leave a lot of gunk behind to clean off. I personally dont like blue tape, it doesnt allow me to get enough pressure on the joints, and it will often slacken off without me realizing it. Some people use duct tape or clear packing tape. Find what works best for you.
> 
> This photo is simply showing the faces taped tightly together, edge to edge. The *orange highlighted circle * shows how I let the edges ride over a little bit, so when its folded it up to form the box this really pulls it tight since its trying to stretch the tape even more. But, just a little overlap is plenty, or the tape may break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo is of the inside after its all taped together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next*,
> we are going to measure for our bottom and fit it, then we will glue and tape up the box.
> 
> Cut the bottom so it fits snug but wont interfere with the closing up of the miter joints.
> I allow about 1/8" gap. I glue in the bottom, its plywood so its dimensionally stable and wont cause the box to split. You dont need to glue it in if your joints are tight and especially if you add corner splines. I just prefer to, for the added strength and the solid sound the bottom makes when tapped on. Its a personal thing-)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW is the time to tape the box up tight and see that everything fits nicely together, the miters should be snug and the bottom should fit right and it should be square. If not, you will see if you can tweek it where needed or recut everything.
> 
> *Bottoms Up*
> When you have your bottom prefitted, add two new bands of tape to act as your clamps. The bands of tape you have been sticking and un-sticking for your dry fitting, are getting pretty sad looking but are ok to just leave on for the actual glue up.
> 
> *Be prepared.*
> This all needs to be done fairly quickly! The glue starts grabbing within a few minutes, so work fast. If its very warm, you will need to move quickly or the glue will start to skin over and your joints will not close up tightly. This will cause them to be very noticeable. I use Titebond 3 because it has a little longer open time.
> If the miters dont pull up tight you will need to coax them a little with some screw clamps, so have them handy.
> Have a damp rag at hand for drips.
> 
> Brush a thin layer of yellow glue on each miter face and while that soaks in, brush glue into the dado groove for the bottom if you wish. Then go back and put another coat of glue onto each miter face if has soaked in all the way. This will of course depend on the woods porosity and the glue you are using. Move quickly but dont be sloppy.
> 
> Now you can slip the bottom in and fold up the box pulling it closed with the tape.
> Check your miters and add more tape as need to tighten it up.
> 
> Flip the box over and check the top edges of the miters too. Clean any excess glue off and place the box on a perfectly flat surface, like your table saw and make sure it doesn't rock. If it rocks much at all, then it is out of square. I use a block of wood and a mallet and smack it hard on the high corner to level it out. You will then need to put another band of tape around it to tighten up that joint and keep it in that position. A little rocking is acceptable as long as your joints look good. I will show you how I get the bottom flat later on._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check from corner to corner with a tape measure to double check that its square. But be sure the miters are tight!


Andy this is great stuff!! I have been trying to get through your class but, have not had the time. Please show how you built your jig if you don't mind I would love to build one. I think you need to do a book deal and make a DVD you do excellent work that would also put some $$ in your pocket.

Thanks Neal


----------



## Argyllshire

*Corner Splines*

Updated 1/15/12

We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.

This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.

I decided there had to be a better way.
I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:










I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24. 
*Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.

There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.

Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H

Another shot.









*Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).

Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.

*Tip:* 
If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut 
down into the splines.
This will become clear a little later on.

*Tip*: 
If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…

Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.










Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut. 
I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely. 
There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.










For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs. 
If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.










*Tip:*
You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine. 
Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box. 
Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines? 
So do your utmost to make them crisp.










Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
This is my approach and it works very well for me.
As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.

I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.










*Test your splines!* 
Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.

Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.

*Tip:*
It is very easy to mess this up!
Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!

Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)

Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.










After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.










And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


----------



## a1Jim

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Hey Andy

Cool blog very good photos and good details. I like that sanding platform.


----------



## pommy

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


I'm saving them all up in favs and when i get the time i will start my build but you keep going andy these lessons are so good

Andy


----------



## Al_PG

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Great instructions Andy, I'm really enjoying this series. Thank you, Al


----------



## majeagle1

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Way to go Andy, great blog and detailed instructions…...........
I probably won't comment on "all" steps/phases, but I sure am watching and reading each one
with baited breath for the next step.

I also like the sanding platform. I have tried the smaller sheets and it can be a pain becasue they do tear, like you say.

Thanks again for doing this….................


----------



## BigTim

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Wow, you are very good at detailing all the little things that are needed to do quality work.
I'm paying attention!


----------



## littlecope

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Go, Man, Go!!!


----------



## DanYo

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


siftin' thru the chaff to get to the wheat ! sweet ! neat ! .... well done … this is the good stuff


----------



## Billp

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Andy thanks for doing this for us. I really appreciate all the time and effort you are put into this tutorial.


----------



## jimc

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Andy, thanks for the Blog tutorial - very nice job! Pretty much the way I do it - my jigs are a bit different and I cut the end bevels on the table saw with a sled but it all comes out the same in the wash. Like your sanding table - will have to look at one of those but my boxes are usually about 1/2 to 2/3 this size so I pretty much get away with one of two sheets glued to a marble block with spray adhesive.

Jim


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


I want to thank everyone for reading these and taking the time to cheer me on.

I will post another chapter soon,I am sorting photos and working on text right now.


----------



## jjraybur

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Looking forward to the sculpting and shaping blog!


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Onto the next chapter here
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/9821


----------



## moshel

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


quick question: what grit do you use for the sanding of the bottom?


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Hi Moshel,
the grit depends on the free belts I get,but typically they are a worn out 120-150.


----------



## ratchet

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Very well done Andy! 
The little hints like being certain the splines are bottomed out when glueing is the difference between success and failure.


----------



## kolwdwrkr

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


nice tutorial on doing the keyed miters. You're sled for making the kerfs is awesome.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Thank you!


----------



## daruco

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


For anyone making splines, a word of caution. Andy shows making splines from rectangular pieces of wood. That's the best approach because you end up with sidegrain along both sides of the spline. Do not do what I did and cut triangles in an effort to minimize the amount of waste. (This was the approach suggested in a Fine Woodworking article.) Or, if you are going to cut triangles, be sure to pay attention to which way the grain is running when you set them in your box. Don't be like me and place them indiscriminately, or else you later will realize, to your horror, that your splines on any given face are not of uniform color because (of course) the endgrain in certain woods (especially maple) is much darker than side grain. Sometimes, I hate woodworking.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Good point Dave, thats what happens to me when I come up with a simple solution too. It backfires


----------



## moshel

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


I had one or two similar experiences with FWW… like old aunts with their secret cake recipes, they keep out some ingredient.


----------



## Kentuk55

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


I'm with Jim on that sanding platform. great idea. Very ez on the back that way


----------



## therookie

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


nice splines


----------



## thedude50

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


where did this go there is nothing here


----------



## Ken90712

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Nice! Love the splines! I like doing them!!!!


----------



## NYChris

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Gotta say, I love this tutorial, so far.. You make it sound and look much easier to craft a box, than i would have ever imagined. Itching to get started on one, now.


----------



## widwotkma

Argyllshire said:


> *Corner Splines*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.
> Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue.
> 
> This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.
> You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very slow, you may not tear the paper.You can also use a sanding block or a hand plane. I have a Jet 6×48 belt sander/disc combo, but is just not quite wide enough.
> 
> I decided there had to be a better way.
> I work for a cabinet shop,( in the office only, where I design and blah,blah,blah) and we have a 36" wide Time Saver sander. We toss the belts after they are worn out but I knew they had a little life left so I snagged one to make a sanding platform. After a little trial and error it looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use it for the bottom, top and for leveling out the sides after cutting off the splines.
> The belts I get are 36'' wide and a 60'' loop. I split them in half lengthwise ( *they rip very straight after you get it started with a cut from a razor knife.)*
> and that gives me a sanding surface of about 18×24.
> *Do not try ripping these on the table saw…kids!*
> The angle of the sanding bed gives a nice working position and the ell leg lets it hook onto the edge of a bench, keeping it in place. ( I am sorry but the ell leg I am refering to is not shown in this photo, its at the operators end, its not the one to the right in the picture.) The taper lets the rod progressively tighten the belt by wedging it in place. Simply pull the rod back and the belt slackens so you can rotate it to a new clean section.
> 
> There is still enough life in these belts for this purpose. Just check with a local cabinet shop and offer them a few bucks for discards. They will probably just give them to you, but you may get turned away if you go asking for a handout.
> 
> Or you could order a new one from Klingspore
> They sell this same size but they also have a 17" x54" and they cost about $33 plus s&H
> 
> Another shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* we are going to cut for the corner splines (aka slip feathers or corner keys ).
> 
> Layout, and how many you use is strictly up to you. You can just place them randomly if you wish making each corner unique.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you are going to really do some wild shaping then placement isnt that critical, since your eye wont be able to align one side with the other anyway. Maybe after a few drinks you might be able to.
> This is the layout we will use for this box. The reason the top spline is placed further from the top edge than the bottom one is from the bottom edge, is that this will allow for more aggressive shaping of the top without getting into the spline too much.
> Another reason, is that if you are going to make a box that has a lip on only three sides of the lid to nestle into and you will be using butt style or barrel hinges, then this will ensure the cutout for the lid at the back doesnt cut
> down into the splines.
> This will become clear a little later on.
> 
> *Tip*:
> If I want the center one to be exactly centered between the top and bottom ones, I dont measure its location ne until I have cut the bottom and top kerfs. It easy to be off a little when allowing for blade thickness, etc…
> 
> Here is the layout I used, but yours can be whatever you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my corner spline jig that rides overtop of my saw fence. It cant move to the side ensuring a straight cut.
> I placed sticky back felt on the inside surfaces so it slides freely.
> There are several other versions on LumberJocks to model yours after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clean flat bottom kerfs the correct saw blade is important. I bought a flat grind toothed blade by Forrest since all I had was a selection of ATB ones which leave a veed or angled bottom. I would carefully try and flatten the bottoms with a file, but it was very difficult not to mess up the sides. I understand why some still use an ATB blade, its a chunk of money for a blade that I only use for kerfs.
> If you arent sure what type of blades you have, do a test by cutting shallow kerfs in a board with each one, you might just have a flat cutting blade on hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> You will get better looking kerfs if you only push the box through the blade once, and do it like a machine.
> Stop after you go over the blade and raise the box up to clear the blade before pulling it back through.
> It doesnt take much…a little wiggle…a little sideways pressure…or even a blade with poor runout, and you will get a sloppy cut. Even a little slop is visible when you glue in a spline that contrasts with the box.
> Thats the whole idea isnt it, to draw the eye to the splines?
> So do your utmost to make them crisp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next we need to cut some splines and I have decided to use Maple for this Bubinga box.
> There are several methods for doing this, including an adjustable stop that sets to the left of the blade. You can also rip them on the bandsaw and run them through a thickness sander, and you can even take your chances with a planer to size them if you wish but they usually just spit it out like scrabble pieces.
> This is my approach and it works very well for me.
> As you can see it is simply a push stick with a heel, a good handle, and a flat side that rides against the fence.
> 
> I set the blade to the approximate width of the spline and make a pass or two until I get it just right testing with some scrap wood. Yes, the thin strip is between the blade and the fence but is prevented from shooting out the back because of the matching heel on the push stick. Just be sure and use a good wood with an intertwined grain such as this White Oak one shown here so the heel doesnt break off too easily. Its a little scary at first, but its safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Test your splines!*
> Slide them in and out to be sure they are snug, but not so tight that you need to force them in while they are still dry. They will swell pretty quickly with glue on them and they may not even bottom out. Its a fine line between too tight and even a little too sloppy. A loose fit will mean that you will see the glue around the spline.
> 
> Cut the splines to about 1 1/2'' long using a handsaw or bandsaw. I always cut extra so I wont be tempted to use one thats too tight or too loose. Now you are ready to start glueing them in the slots.
> 
> *Tip:*
> It is very easy to mess this up!
> Dont get in a hurry, and do one at a time. Quit texting your girlfriend and focus!
> 
> Use a small brush to apply the glue. ( I use acid brushes for soldering. They are natural animal hair and can be used over and over. They are cheap too. I cut the bristles shorter with a chisel and mallet.)
> 
> Have a wet rag at hand to wipe away excess glue and another acid brush to clean around the slots, just to be sure the splines are seated all the way to the bottom of the slots. You may need to coax it into place with a mallet.
> Do this slowly and carefully on each one. And, be sure you dont bump the others out of position.
> If there is any gap anywhere, it will show when you trim the splines flush. Not much you can do to fix it. So, be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you have them all done, give it an hour or so to dry and trim them flush. I have a 14" bandsaw, so I can just fit one of these boxes through to trim off the ends. A handsaw will work too. So will a trained beaver if happen to own one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then on to the sanding platform to flatten the sides. It doesnt really need to be pretty, just flat for referencing off of a fence or measuring for hinges, etc.. The sides of this box will be shaped anyway, so dont waste time on getting all the marks out…unless you want to….which I usually do


Good point on the choice of saw blade for cutting the splines. An alternating tooth will cause a noticeable gap. An alternative to buying a dedicated blade is to use an outside blade from a dado blade set or a blade from a box joint blade set, which has flat teeth. I recently picked up a DELTA 35-7670 8-Inch Stacked Dado Set for $69 on sale at Rockler.


----------



## Argyllshire

*Cut the lip for the lid*

Updated 1/15/12

At this point we have a box body with corner splines.
Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.
DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE!

For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.
Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we do the medallion.
Then you could continue on to the shaping if desired.
For now, just follow along with the tutorial, and continue at your own pace.
I strongly recommend making a test box. Are you listening to me at all or are you still texting little Sheba?
You will feel more comfortable when trying out some of the following procedures on a lesser grade of wood.

Next
We want the top edge of the box sanded flat in case you havent already done that.
What we are going to do is route a recess on the inside top edge of the box to recieve the lid.
We will invert the box over a router fixed in a table. Any bumps at the corner joints on the top of the box will transfer to the lip we are routing down inside. Its much easier to sand the top edge than to sand inside.
Once the top edge of the box is smooth, remove any sawdust, etc from the inside of the box and the router table so we have a clean surface.

Next
We are going to route a rabbet, a lip, inside the box, all the way around. It will finish at 3/8'' wide x 1/2'' deep.
Keep in mind that any chipping is a real issue with this style of box. Any variations along the gap, which is called the reveal, between box and lid, will really jump out. We do need a gap between the lid and box for the lid to open, but it needs to be small and very even. Capiche?
NO? OK, OK, then look at it this way,, if you sand out a chip, or deep router burn on the inside lip of the box it makes a divot, meaning it becomes wider at that point, a wavy line. The lid cannot be shaped to fit into those "wide spots". Its like trying to parallel park a Winnebago. 
I route the lip using several shallow passes for the depth and the width. This will minimize chipping and burning.
I use a rabbet bit with interchangeable guide bearings and start with one that gives me a cut just under 3/8" wide. I go fairly slow on the first shallow pass, not worrying about the burn marks. I cut down to just shy of the full 1/2'' depth, leaving about 1/16''. I then clean this up with a bearing that gives me the full 3/8'' width and also I reset the router to take the full 1/2'' depth.

Be sure and let the bit stop spinning before lifting the box off, clean away all the chips after each pass, and be sure you move around the bit in the correct direction. This of course will depend on which side of the equator you live on." Here in Oregon, thats clockwise.

*Tip:*
Wet the wood with a damp cloth prior to routing to minimize tearout.

If you dont have a set of bearing, just use a pattern bit and make multiple passes. Depends a lot on the wood.

Start
with the edge of the cutter about 1/8 above the table. Use a high speed setting if you have that option and lower the center of the box over the bit and move it in a clockwise direction, (moving into the bit). After a complete pass around the bit,c enter the box over the bit and turn off the router. Clean away all the chips and raise the bit to about 1/4" - 3/8" and repeat. Leave the bit about 1/16 shy of the total 1/2" depth. Last of all, change your guide bearing and raise the bit to exactly 1/2'' deep and make your final pass, moving at a little faster pace to prevent new burns.
Your final results will depend on the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your bit, and how tight you crossed your fingers.

Here is the bit set and the router. Also, you can see the bent wrenches for the router I made. I massaged them to fit down into the well by heating them in the woodstove and tempering in oil. But thats another story.










A close up of the bit.










The first pass just under our 3/8" width.










Done @ 3/8" wide x 1/2" deep










Next
Carefully and lightly sand the rabbet just enough to smooth it out.Then sand a very small radius on the inside edge of the lip to ease fitting in the lid. This will prevent denting it as you test fit the lid… over and over.


----------



## a1Jim

Argyllshire said:


> *Cut the lip for the lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we have a box body with corner splines.
> Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.
> DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE!
> 
> For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.
> Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we do the medallion.
> Then you could continue on to the shaping if desired.
> For now, just follow along with the tutorial, and continue at your own pace.
> I strongly recommend making a test box. Are you listening to me at all or are you still texting little Sheba?
> You will feel more comfortable when trying out some of the following procedures on a lesser grade of wood.
> 
> Next
> We want the top edge of the box sanded flat in case you havent already done that.
> What we are going to do is route a recess on the inside top edge of the box to recieve the lid.
> We will invert the box over a router fixed in a table. Any bumps at the corner joints on the top of the box will transfer to the lip we are routing down inside. Its much easier to sand the top edge than to sand inside.
> Once the top edge of the box is smooth, remove any sawdust, etc from the inside of the box and the router table so we have a clean surface.
> 
> Next
> We are going to route a rabbet, a lip, inside the box, all the way around. It will finish at 3/8'' wide x 1/2'' deep.
> Keep in mind that any chipping is a real issue with this style of box. Any variations along the gap, which is called the reveal, between box and lid, will really jump out. We do need a gap between the lid and box for the lid to open, but it needs to be small and very even. Capiche?
> NO? OK, OK, then look at it this way,, if you sand out a chip, or deep router burn on the inside lip of the box it makes a divot, meaning it becomes wider at that point, a wavy line. The lid cannot be shaped to fit into those "wide spots". Its like trying to parallel park a Winnebago.
> I route the lip using several shallow passes for the depth and the width. This will minimize chipping and burning.
> I use a rabbet bit with interchangeable guide bearings and start with one that gives me a cut just under 3/8" wide. I go fairly slow on the first shallow pass, not worrying about the burn marks. I cut down to just shy of the full 1/2'' depth, leaving about 1/16''. I then clean this up with a bearing that gives me the full 3/8'' width and also I reset the router to take the full 1/2'' depth.
> 
> Be sure and let the bit stop spinning before lifting the box off, clean away all the chips after each pass, and be sure you move around the bit in the correct direction. This of course will depend on which side of the equator you live on." Here in Oregon, thats clockwise.
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wet the wood with a damp cloth prior to routing to minimize tearout.
> 
> If you dont have a set of bearing, just use a pattern bit and make multiple passes. Depends a lot on the wood.
> 
> Start
> with the edge of the cutter about 1/8 above the table. Use a high speed setting if you have that option and lower the center of the box over the bit and move it in a clockwise direction, (moving into the bit). After a complete pass around the bit,c enter the box over the bit and turn off the router. Clean away all the chips and raise the bit to about 1/4" - 3/8" and repeat. Leave the bit about 1/16 shy of the total 1/2" depth. Last of all, change your guide bearing and raise the bit to exactly 1/2'' deep and make your final pass, moving at a little faster pace to prevent new burns.
> Your final results will depend on the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your bit, and how tight you crossed your fingers.
> 
> Here is the bit set and the router. Also, you can see the bent wrenches for the router I made. I massaged them to fit down into the well by heating them in the woodstove and tempering in oil. But thats another story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close up of the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pass just under our 3/8" width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done @ 3/8" wide x 1/2" deep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next
> Carefully and lightly sand the rabbet just enough to smooth it out.Then sand a very small radius on the inside edge of the lip to ease fitting in the lid. This will prevent denting it as you test fit the lid… over and over.


Good tutorial well done


----------



## Al_PG

Argyllshire said:


> *Cut the lip for the lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we have a box body with corner splines.
> Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.
> DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE!
> 
> For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.
> Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we do the medallion.
> Then you could continue on to the shaping if desired.
> For now, just follow along with the tutorial, and continue at your own pace.
> I strongly recommend making a test box. Are you listening to me at all or are you still texting little Sheba?
> You will feel more comfortable when trying out some of the following procedures on a lesser grade of wood.
> 
> Next
> We want the top edge of the box sanded flat in case you havent already done that.
> What we are going to do is route a recess on the inside top edge of the box to recieve the lid.
> We will invert the box over a router fixed in a table. Any bumps at the corner joints on the top of the box will transfer to the lip we are routing down inside. Its much easier to sand the top edge than to sand inside.
> Once the top edge of the box is smooth, remove any sawdust, etc from the inside of the box and the router table so we have a clean surface.
> 
> Next
> We are going to route a rabbet, a lip, inside the box, all the way around. It will finish at 3/8'' wide x 1/2'' deep.
> Keep in mind that any chipping is a real issue with this style of box. Any variations along the gap, which is called the reveal, between box and lid, will really jump out. We do need a gap between the lid and box for the lid to open, but it needs to be small and very even. Capiche?
> NO? OK, OK, then look at it this way,, if you sand out a chip, or deep router burn on the inside lip of the box it makes a divot, meaning it becomes wider at that point, a wavy line. The lid cannot be shaped to fit into those "wide spots". Its like trying to parallel park a Winnebago.
> I route the lip using several shallow passes for the depth and the width. This will minimize chipping and burning.
> I use a rabbet bit with interchangeable guide bearings and start with one that gives me a cut just under 3/8" wide. I go fairly slow on the first shallow pass, not worrying about the burn marks. I cut down to just shy of the full 1/2'' depth, leaving about 1/16''. I then clean this up with a bearing that gives me the full 3/8'' width and also I reset the router to take the full 1/2'' depth.
> 
> Be sure and let the bit stop spinning before lifting the box off, clean away all the chips after each pass, and be sure you move around the bit in the correct direction. This of course will depend on which side of the equator you live on." Here in Oregon, thats clockwise.
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wet the wood with a damp cloth prior to routing to minimize tearout.
> 
> If you dont have a set of bearing, just use a pattern bit and make multiple passes. Depends a lot on the wood.
> 
> Start
> with the edge of the cutter about 1/8 above the table. Use a high speed setting if you have that option and lower the center of the box over the bit and move it in a clockwise direction, (moving into the bit). After a complete pass around the bit,c enter the box over the bit and turn off the router. Clean away all the chips and raise the bit to about 1/4" - 3/8" and repeat. Leave the bit about 1/16 shy of the total 1/2" depth. Last of all, change your guide bearing and raise the bit to exactly 1/2'' deep and make your final pass, moving at a little faster pace to prevent new burns.
> Your final results will depend on the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your bit, and how tight you crossed your fingers.
> 
> Here is the bit set and the router. Also, you can see the bent wrenches for the router I made. I massaged them to fit down into the well by heating them in the woodstove and tempering in oil. But thats another story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close up of the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pass just under our 3/8" width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done @ 3/8" wide x 1/2" deep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next
> Carefully and lightly sand the rabbet just enough to smooth it out.Then sand a very small radius on the inside edge of the lip to ease fitting in the lid. This will prevent denting it as you test fit the lid… over and over.


Look forward to the next one.


----------



## flcopper169

Argyllshire said:


> *Cut the lip for the lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we have a box body with corner splines.
> Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.
> DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE!
> 
> For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.
> Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we do the medallion.
> Then you could continue on to the shaping if desired.
> For now, just follow along with the tutorial, and continue at your own pace.
> I strongly recommend making a test box. Are you listening to me at all or are you still texting little Sheba?
> You will feel more comfortable when trying out some of the following procedures on a lesser grade of wood.
> 
> Next
> We want the top edge of the box sanded flat in case you havent already done that.
> What we are going to do is route a recess on the inside top edge of the box to recieve the lid.
> We will invert the box over a router fixed in a table. Any bumps at the corner joints on the top of the box will transfer to the lip we are routing down inside. Its much easier to sand the top edge than to sand inside.
> Once the top edge of the box is smooth, remove any sawdust, etc from the inside of the box and the router table so we have a clean surface.
> 
> Next
> We are going to route a rabbet, a lip, inside the box, all the way around. It will finish at 3/8'' wide x 1/2'' deep.
> Keep in mind that any chipping is a real issue with this style of box. Any variations along the gap, which is called the reveal, between box and lid, will really jump out. We do need a gap between the lid and box for the lid to open, but it needs to be small and very even. Capiche?
> NO? OK, OK, then look at it this way,, if you sand out a chip, or deep router burn on the inside lip of the box it makes a divot, meaning it becomes wider at that point, a wavy line. The lid cannot be shaped to fit into those "wide spots". Its like trying to parallel park a Winnebago.
> I route the lip using several shallow passes for the depth and the width. This will minimize chipping and burning.
> I use a rabbet bit with interchangeable guide bearings and start with one that gives me a cut just under 3/8" wide. I go fairly slow on the first shallow pass, not worrying about the burn marks. I cut down to just shy of the full 1/2'' depth, leaving about 1/16''. I then clean this up with a bearing that gives me the full 3/8'' width and also I reset the router to take the full 1/2'' depth.
> 
> Be sure and let the bit stop spinning before lifting the box off, clean away all the chips after each pass, and be sure you move around the bit in the correct direction. This of course will depend on which side of the equator you live on." Here in Oregon, thats clockwise.
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wet the wood with a damp cloth prior to routing to minimize tearout.
> 
> If you dont have a set of bearing, just use a pattern bit and make multiple passes. Depends a lot on the wood.
> 
> Start
> with the edge of the cutter about 1/8 above the table. Use a high speed setting if you have that option and lower the center of the box over the bit and move it in a clockwise direction, (moving into the bit). After a complete pass around the bit,c enter the box over the bit and turn off the router. Clean away all the chips and raise the bit to about 1/4" - 3/8" and repeat. Leave the bit about 1/16 shy of the total 1/2" depth. Last of all, change your guide bearing and raise the bit to exactly 1/2'' deep and make your final pass, moving at a little faster pace to prevent new burns.
> Your final results will depend on the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your bit, and how tight you crossed your fingers.
> 
> Here is the bit set and the router. Also, you can see the bent wrenches for the router I made. I massaged them to fit down into the well by heating them in the woodstove and tempering in oil. But thats another story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close up of the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pass just under our 3/8" width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done @ 3/8" wide x 1/2" deep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next
> Carefully and lightly sand the rabbet just enough to smooth it out.Then sand a very small radius on the inside edge of the lip to ease fitting in the lid. This will prevent denting it as you test fit the lid… over and over.


Andy… You've done a great job putting this together….. Thanks so much for taking the time to do this….

Sincerely …

Rob


----------



## jimp

Argyllshire said:


> *Cut the lip for the lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we have a box body with corner splines.
> Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.
> DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE!
> 
> For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.
> Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we do the medallion.
> Then you could continue on to the shaping if desired.
> For now, just follow along with the tutorial, and continue at your own pace.
> I strongly recommend making a test box. Are you listening to me at all or are you still texting little Sheba?
> You will feel more comfortable when trying out some of the following procedures on a lesser grade of wood.
> 
> Next
> We want the top edge of the box sanded flat in case you havent already done that.
> What we are going to do is route a recess on the inside top edge of the box to recieve the lid.
> We will invert the box over a router fixed in a table. Any bumps at the corner joints on the top of the box will transfer to the lip we are routing down inside. Its much easier to sand the top edge than to sand inside.
> Once the top edge of the box is smooth, remove any sawdust, etc from the inside of the box and the router table so we have a clean surface.
> 
> Next
> We are going to route a rabbet, a lip, inside the box, all the way around. It will finish at 3/8'' wide x 1/2'' deep.
> Keep in mind that any chipping is a real issue with this style of box. Any variations along the gap, which is called the reveal, between box and lid, will really jump out. We do need a gap between the lid and box for the lid to open, but it needs to be small and very even. Capiche?
> NO? OK, OK, then look at it this way,, if you sand out a chip, or deep router burn on the inside lip of the box it makes a divot, meaning it becomes wider at that point, a wavy line. The lid cannot be shaped to fit into those "wide spots". Its like trying to parallel park a Winnebago.
> I route the lip using several shallow passes for the depth and the width. This will minimize chipping and burning.
> I use a rabbet bit with interchangeable guide bearings and start with one that gives me a cut just under 3/8" wide. I go fairly slow on the first shallow pass, not worrying about the burn marks. I cut down to just shy of the full 1/2'' depth, leaving about 1/16''. I then clean this up with a bearing that gives me the full 3/8'' width and also I reset the router to take the full 1/2'' depth.
> 
> Be sure and let the bit stop spinning before lifting the box off, clean away all the chips after each pass, and be sure you move around the bit in the correct direction. This of course will depend on which side of the equator you live on." Here in Oregon, thats clockwise.
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wet the wood with a damp cloth prior to routing to minimize tearout.
> 
> If you dont have a set of bearing, just use a pattern bit and make multiple passes. Depends a lot on the wood.
> 
> Start
> with the edge of the cutter about 1/8 above the table. Use a high speed setting if you have that option and lower the center of the box over the bit and move it in a clockwise direction, (moving into the bit). After a complete pass around the bit,c enter the box over the bit and turn off the router. Clean away all the chips and raise the bit to about 1/4" - 3/8" and repeat. Leave the bit about 1/16 shy of the total 1/2" depth. Last of all, change your guide bearing and raise the bit to exactly 1/2'' deep and make your final pass, moving at a little faster pace to prevent new burns.
> Your final results will depend on the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your bit, and how tight you crossed your fingers.
> 
> Here is the bit set and the router. Also, you can see the bent wrenches for the router I made. I massaged them to fit down into the well by heating them in the woodstove and tempering in oil. But thats another story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close up of the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pass just under our 3/8" width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done @ 3/8" wide x 1/2" deep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next
> Carefully and lightly sand the rabbet just enough to smooth it out.Then sand a very small radius on the inside edge of the lip to ease fitting in the lid. This will prevent denting it as you test fit the lid… over and over.


Thanks for writing this blog! I have learned a lot.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Cut the lip for the lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we have a box body with corner splines.
> Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.
> DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE!
> 
> For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.
> Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we do the medallion.
> Then you could continue on to the shaping if desired.
> For now, just follow along with the tutorial, and continue at your own pace.
> I strongly recommend making a test box. Are you listening to me at all or are you still texting little Sheba?
> You will feel more comfortable when trying out some of the following procedures on a lesser grade of wood.
> 
> Next
> We want the top edge of the box sanded flat in case you havent already done that.
> What we are going to do is route a recess on the inside top edge of the box to recieve the lid.
> We will invert the box over a router fixed in a table. Any bumps at the corner joints on the top of the box will transfer to the lip we are routing down inside. Its much easier to sand the top edge than to sand inside.
> Once the top edge of the box is smooth, remove any sawdust, etc from the inside of the box and the router table so we have a clean surface.
> 
> Next
> We are going to route a rabbet, a lip, inside the box, all the way around. It will finish at 3/8'' wide x 1/2'' deep.
> Keep in mind that any chipping is a real issue with this style of box. Any variations along the gap, which is called the reveal, between box and lid, will really jump out. We do need a gap between the lid and box for the lid to open, but it needs to be small and very even. Capiche?
> NO? OK, OK, then look at it this way,, if you sand out a chip, or deep router burn on the inside lip of the box it makes a divot, meaning it becomes wider at that point, a wavy line. The lid cannot be shaped to fit into those "wide spots". Its like trying to parallel park a Winnebago.
> I route the lip using several shallow passes for the depth and the width. This will minimize chipping and burning.
> I use a rabbet bit with interchangeable guide bearings and start with one that gives me a cut just under 3/8" wide. I go fairly slow on the first shallow pass, not worrying about the burn marks. I cut down to just shy of the full 1/2'' depth, leaving about 1/16''. I then clean this up with a bearing that gives me the full 3/8'' width and also I reset the router to take the full 1/2'' depth.
> 
> Be sure and let the bit stop spinning before lifting the box off, clean away all the chips after each pass, and be sure you move around the bit in the correct direction. This of course will depend on which side of the equator you live on." Here in Oregon, thats clockwise.
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wet the wood with a damp cloth prior to routing to minimize tearout.
> 
> If you dont have a set of bearing, just use a pattern bit and make multiple passes. Depends a lot on the wood.
> 
> Start
> with the edge of the cutter about 1/8 above the table. Use a high speed setting if you have that option and lower the center of the box over the bit and move it in a clockwise direction, (moving into the bit). After a complete pass around the bit,c enter the box over the bit and turn off the router. Clean away all the chips and raise the bit to about 1/4" - 3/8" and repeat. Leave the bit about 1/16 shy of the total 1/2" depth. Last of all, change your guide bearing and raise the bit to exactly 1/2'' deep and make your final pass, moving at a little faster pace to prevent new burns.
> Your final results will depend on the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your bit, and how tight you crossed your fingers.
> 
> Here is the bit set and the router. Also, you can see the bent wrenches for the router I made. I massaged them to fit down into the well by heating them in the woodstove and tempering in oil. But thats another story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close up of the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pass just under our 3/8" width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done @ 3/8" wide x 1/2" deep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next
> Carefully and lightly sand the rabbet just enough to smooth it out.Then sand a very small radius on the inside edge of the lip to ease fitting in the lid. This will prevent denting it as you test fit the lid… over and over.


And here we go to chapter #6.
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/9857


----------



## Jonathan55

Argyllshire said:


> *Cut the lip for the lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we have a box body with corner splines.
> Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.
> DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE!
> 
> For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.
> Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we do the medallion.
> Then you could continue on to the shaping if desired.
> For now, just follow along with the tutorial, and continue at your own pace.
> I strongly recommend making a test box. Are you listening to me at all or are you still texting little Sheba?
> You will feel more comfortable when trying out some of the following procedures on a lesser grade of wood.
> 
> Next
> We want the top edge of the box sanded flat in case you havent already done that.
> What we are going to do is route a recess on the inside top edge of the box to recieve the lid.
> We will invert the box over a router fixed in a table. Any bumps at the corner joints on the top of the box will transfer to the lip we are routing down inside. Its much easier to sand the top edge than to sand inside.
> Once the top edge of the box is smooth, remove any sawdust, etc from the inside of the box and the router table so we have a clean surface.
> 
> Next
> We are going to route a rabbet, a lip, inside the box, all the way around. It will finish at 3/8'' wide x 1/2'' deep.
> Keep in mind that any chipping is a real issue with this style of box. Any variations along the gap, which is called the reveal, between box and lid, will really jump out. We do need a gap between the lid and box for the lid to open, but it needs to be small and very even. Capiche?
> NO? OK, OK, then look at it this way,, if you sand out a chip, or deep router burn on the inside lip of the box it makes a divot, meaning it becomes wider at that point, a wavy line. The lid cannot be shaped to fit into those "wide spots". Its like trying to parallel park a Winnebago.
> I route the lip using several shallow passes for the depth and the width. This will minimize chipping and burning.
> I use a rabbet bit with interchangeable guide bearings and start with one that gives me a cut just under 3/8" wide. I go fairly slow on the first shallow pass, not worrying about the burn marks. I cut down to just shy of the full 1/2'' depth, leaving about 1/16''. I then clean this up with a bearing that gives me the full 3/8'' width and also I reset the router to take the full 1/2'' depth.
> 
> Be sure and let the bit stop spinning before lifting the box off, clean away all the chips after each pass, and be sure you move around the bit in the correct direction. This of course will depend on which side of the equator you live on." Here in Oregon, thats clockwise.
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wet the wood with a damp cloth prior to routing to minimize tearout.
> 
> If you dont have a set of bearing, just use a pattern bit and make multiple passes. Depends a lot on the wood.
> 
> Start
> with the edge of the cutter about 1/8 above the table. Use a high speed setting if you have that option and lower the center of the box over the bit and move it in a clockwise direction, (moving into the bit). After a complete pass around the bit,c enter the box over the bit and turn off the router. Clean away all the chips and raise the bit to about 1/4" - 3/8" and repeat. Leave the bit about 1/16 shy of the total 1/2" depth. Last of all, change your guide bearing and raise the bit to exactly 1/2'' deep and make your final pass, moving at a little faster pace to prevent new burns.
> Your final results will depend on the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your bit, and how tight you crossed your fingers.
> 
> Here is the bit set and the router. Also, you can see the bent wrenches for the router I made. I massaged them to fit down into the well by heating them in the woodstove and tempering in oil. But thats another story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close up of the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pass just under our 3/8" width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done @ 3/8" wide x 1/2" deep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next
> Carefully and lightly sand the rabbet just enough to smooth it out.Then sand a very small radius on the inside edge of the lip to ease fitting in the lid. This will prevent denting it as you test fit the lid… over and over.


Andy, thanks! I'm getting ready to try cutting and sanding the corners of the lid if I can get the rabbet cut this weekend. I'm wondering how much room you leave for wood movement. Most of the boxes I've made have had a frame and panel lid.

Jonathan


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Cut the lip for the lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we have a box body with corner splines.
> Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.
> DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE!
> 
> For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.
> Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we do the medallion.
> Then you could continue on to the shaping if desired.
> For now, just follow along with the tutorial, and continue at your own pace.
> I strongly recommend making a test box. Are you listening to me at all or are you still texting little Sheba?
> You will feel more comfortable when trying out some of the following procedures on a lesser grade of wood.
> 
> Next
> We want the top edge of the box sanded flat in case you havent already done that.
> What we are going to do is route a recess on the inside top edge of the box to recieve the lid.
> We will invert the box over a router fixed in a table. Any bumps at the corner joints on the top of the box will transfer to the lip we are routing down inside. Its much easier to sand the top edge than to sand inside.
> Once the top edge of the box is smooth, remove any sawdust, etc from the inside of the box and the router table so we have a clean surface.
> 
> Next
> We are going to route a rabbet, a lip, inside the box, all the way around. It will finish at 3/8'' wide x 1/2'' deep.
> Keep in mind that any chipping is a real issue with this style of box. Any variations along the gap, which is called the reveal, between box and lid, will really jump out. We do need a gap between the lid and box for the lid to open, but it needs to be small and very even. Capiche?
> NO? OK, OK, then look at it this way,, if you sand out a chip, or deep router burn on the inside lip of the box it makes a divot, meaning it becomes wider at that point, a wavy line. The lid cannot be shaped to fit into those "wide spots". Its like trying to parallel park a Winnebago.
> I route the lip using several shallow passes for the depth and the width. This will minimize chipping and burning.
> I use a rabbet bit with interchangeable guide bearings and start with one that gives me a cut just under 3/8" wide. I go fairly slow on the first shallow pass, not worrying about the burn marks. I cut down to just shy of the full 1/2'' depth, leaving about 1/16''. I then clean this up with a bearing that gives me the full 3/8'' width and also I reset the router to take the full 1/2'' depth.
> 
> Be sure and let the bit stop spinning before lifting the box off, clean away all the chips after each pass, and be sure you move around the bit in the correct direction. This of course will depend on which side of the equator you live on." Here in Oregon, thats clockwise.
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wet the wood with a damp cloth prior to routing to minimize tearout.
> 
> If you dont have a set of bearing, just use a pattern bit and make multiple passes. Depends a lot on the wood.
> 
> Start
> with the edge of the cutter about 1/8 above the table. Use a high speed setting if you have that option and lower the center of the box over the bit and move it in a clockwise direction, (moving into the bit). After a complete pass around the bit,c enter the box over the bit and turn off the router. Clean away all the chips and raise the bit to about 1/4" - 3/8" and repeat. Leave the bit about 1/16 shy of the total 1/2" depth. Last of all, change your guide bearing and raise the bit to exactly 1/2'' deep and make your final pass, moving at a little faster pace to prevent new burns.
> Your final results will depend on the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your bit, and how tight you crossed your fingers.
> 
> Here is the bit set and the router. Also, you can see the bent wrenches for the router I made. I massaged them to fit down into the well by heating them in the woodstove and tempering in oil. But thats another story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close up of the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pass just under our 3/8" width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done @ 3/8" wide x 1/2" deep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next
> Carefully and lightly sand the rabbet just enough to smooth it out.Then sand a very small radius on the inside edge of the lip to ease fitting in the lid. This will prevent denting it as you test fit the lid… over and over.


I am glad to hear that you are making a box.I have just started getiing a little feedback,hopefully more in the future.
This is a good question,so I am going to post this into the tutorial.

Regarding wood movement:
Depending on the wood you use,where you live,and your own personal experience,you may want to allow more clearance.

This is what works for me.
I really dont allow for any movement at this stage.I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me.Even if we start off with a snug fit,we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter.This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip.Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish.But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges,that its very easy to get a sloppy fit.This would allow the lid to move from side to side,which will just feel wrong,and the pins may show too much in the gap,and the handle may not drop straight into the seat,but might rub the sides on the way down.

The only time I have seen a problem was when one of my boxes was placed on a counter in the bathroom and over a few months the high humidity caused the lid to stick.Once removed from that room, it returned to normal,about two months later.

I hope this helped.


----------



## bigike

Argyllshire said:


> *Cut the lip for the lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we have a box body with corner splines.
> Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.
> DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE!
> 
> For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.
> Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we do the medallion.
> Then you could continue on to the shaping if desired.
> For now, just follow along with the tutorial, and continue at your own pace.
> I strongly recommend making a test box. Are you listening to me at all or are you still texting little Sheba?
> You will feel more comfortable when trying out some of the following procedures on a lesser grade of wood.
> 
> Next
> We want the top edge of the box sanded flat in case you havent already done that.
> What we are going to do is route a recess on the inside top edge of the box to recieve the lid.
> We will invert the box over a router fixed in a table. Any bumps at the corner joints on the top of the box will transfer to the lip we are routing down inside. Its much easier to sand the top edge than to sand inside.
> Once the top edge of the box is smooth, remove any sawdust, etc from the inside of the box and the router table so we have a clean surface.
> 
> Next
> We are going to route a rabbet, a lip, inside the box, all the way around. It will finish at 3/8'' wide x 1/2'' deep.
> Keep in mind that any chipping is a real issue with this style of box. Any variations along the gap, which is called the reveal, between box and lid, will really jump out. We do need a gap between the lid and box for the lid to open, but it needs to be small and very even. Capiche?
> NO? OK, OK, then look at it this way,, if you sand out a chip, or deep router burn on the inside lip of the box it makes a divot, meaning it becomes wider at that point, a wavy line. The lid cannot be shaped to fit into those "wide spots". Its like trying to parallel park a Winnebago.
> I route the lip using several shallow passes for the depth and the width. This will minimize chipping and burning.
> I use a rabbet bit with interchangeable guide bearings and start with one that gives me a cut just under 3/8" wide. I go fairly slow on the first shallow pass, not worrying about the burn marks. I cut down to just shy of the full 1/2'' depth, leaving about 1/16''. I then clean this up with a bearing that gives me the full 3/8'' width and also I reset the router to take the full 1/2'' depth.
> 
> Be sure and let the bit stop spinning before lifting the box off, clean away all the chips after each pass, and be sure you move around the bit in the correct direction. This of course will depend on which side of the equator you live on." Here in Oregon, thats clockwise.
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wet the wood with a damp cloth prior to routing to minimize tearout.
> 
> If you dont have a set of bearing, just use a pattern bit and make multiple passes. Depends a lot on the wood.
> 
> Start
> with the edge of the cutter about 1/8 above the table. Use a high speed setting if you have that option and lower the center of the box over the bit and move it in a clockwise direction, (moving into the bit). After a complete pass around the bit,c enter the box over the bit and turn off the router. Clean away all the chips and raise the bit to about 1/4" - 3/8" and repeat. Leave the bit about 1/16 shy of the total 1/2" depth. Last of all, change your guide bearing and raise the bit to exactly 1/2'' deep and make your final pass, moving at a little faster pace to prevent new burns.
> Your final results will depend on the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your bit, and how tight you crossed your fingers.
> 
> Here is the bit set and the router. Also, you can see the bent wrenches for the router I made. I massaged them to fit down into the well by heating them in the woodstove and tempering in oil. But thats another story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close up of the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pass just under our 3/8" width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done @ 3/8" wide x 1/2" deep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next
> Carefully and lightly sand the rabbet just enough to smooth it out.Then sand a very small radius on the inside edge of the lip to ease fitting in the lid. This will prevent denting it as you test fit the lid… over and over.


i almost sent a message to ya about this but then i read it and now i understand how u didi it (the lid fitting) im still kinda nervous about trying to do the whole box so i just been reading the tutorial a page at a time really ones where i dont understand how something was done i wish i had the ink to print the whol thing but for now its ok to just read here the only thing is i have to stand the whole time im on the computer cuz i dont have space for a desk and chair mabee a stool but anyway thanks for the info my first box you will see first even before i post it so till then.


----------



## JoeLyddon

Argyllshire said:


> *Cut the lip for the lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we have a box body with corner splines.
> Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.
> DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE!
> 
> For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.
> Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we do the medallion.
> Then you could continue on to the shaping if desired.
> For now, just follow along with the tutorial, and continue at your own pace.
> I strongly recommend making a test box. Are you listening to me at all or are you still texting little Sheba?
> You will feel more comfortable when trying out some of the following procedures on a lesser grade of wood.
> 
> Next
> We want the top edge of the box sanded flat in case you havent already done that.
> What we are going to do is route a recess on the inside top edge of the box to recieve the lid.
> We will invert the box over a router fixed in a table. Any bumps at the corner joints on the top of the box will transfer to the lip we are routing down inside. Its much easier to sand the top edge than to sand inside.
> Once the top edge of the box is smooth, remove any sawdust, etc from the inside of the box and the router table so we have a clean surface.
> 
> Next
> We are going to route a rabbet, a lip, inside the box, all the way around. It will finish at 3/8'' wide x 1/2'' deep.
> Keep in mind that any chipping is a real issue with this style of box. Any variations along the gap, which is called the reveal, between box and lid, will really jump out. We do need a gap between the lid and box for the lid to open, but it needs to be small and very even. Capiche?
> NO? OK, OK, then look at it this way,, if you sand out a chip, or deep router burn on the inside lip of the box it makes a divot, meaning it becomes wider at that point, a wavy line. The lid cannot be shaped to fit into those "wide spots". Its like trying to parallel park a Winnebago.
> I route the lip using several shallow passes for the depth and the width. This will minimize chipping and burning.
> I use a rabbet bit with interchangeable guide bearings and start with one that gives me a cut just under 3/8" wide. I go fairly slow on the first shallow pass, not worrying about the burn marks. I cut down to just shy of the full 1/2'' depth, leaving about 1/16''. I then clean this up with a bearing that gives me the full 3/8'' width and also I reset the router to take the full 1/2'' depth.
> 
> Be sure and let the bit stop spinning before lifting the box off, clean away all the chips after each pass, and be sure you move around the bit in the correct direction. This of course will depend on which side of the equator you live on." Here in Oregon, thats clockwise.
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wet the wood with a damp cloth prior to routing to minimize tearout.
> 
> If you dont have a set of bearing, just use a pattern bit and make multiple passes. Depends a lot on the wood.
> 
> Start
> with the edge of the cutter about 1/8 above the table. Use a high speed setting if you have that option and lower the center of the box over the bit and move it in a clockwise direction, (moving into the bit). After a complete pass around the bit,c enter the box over the bit and turn off the router. Clean away all the chips and raise the bit to about 1/4" - 3/8" and repeat. Leave the bit about 1/16 shy of the total 1/2" depth. Last of all, change your guide bearing and raise the bit to exactly 1/2'' deep and make your final pass, moving at a little faster pace to prevent new burns.
> Your final results will depend on the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your bit, and how tight you crossed your fingers.
> 
> Here is the bit set and the router. Also, you can see the bent wrenches for the router I made. I massaged them to fit down into the well by heating them in the woodstove and tempering in oil. But thats another story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close up of the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pass just under our 3/8" width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done @ 3/8" wide x 1/2" deep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next
> Carefully and lightly sand the rabbet just enough to smooth it out.Then sand a very small radius on the inside edge of the lip to ease fitting in the lid. This will prevent denting it as you test fit the lid… over and over.


Andy,

Thank you very much for your hard work in putting this together.


----------



## Kentuk55

Argyllshire said:


> *Cut the lip for the lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we have a box body with corner splines.
> Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.
> DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE!
> 
> For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.
> Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we do the medallion.
> Then you could continue on to the shaping if desired.
> For now, just follow along with the tutorial, and continue at your own pace.
> I strongly recommend making a test box. Are you listening to me at all or are you still texting little Sheba?
> You will feel more comfortable when trying out some of the following procedures on a lesser grade of wood.
> 
> Next
> We want the top edge of the box sanded flat in case you havent already done that.
> What we are going to do is route a recess on the inside top edge of the box to recieve the lid.
> We will invert the box over a router fixed in a table. Any bumps at the corner joints on the top of the box will transfer to the lip we are routing down inside. Its much easier to sand the top edge than to sand inside.
> Once the top edge of the box is smooth, remove any sawdust, etc from the inside of the box and the router table so we have a clean surface.
> 
> Next
> We are going to route a rabbet, a lip, inside the box, all the way around. It will finish at 3/8'' wide x 1/2'' deep.
> Keep in mind that any chipping is a real issue with this style of box. Any variations along the gap, which is called the reveal, between box and lid, will really jump out. We do need a gap between the lid and box for the lid to open, but it needs to be small and very even. Capiche?
> NO? OK, OK, then look at it this way,, if you sand out a chip, or deep router burn on the inside lip of the box it makes a divot, meaning it becomes wider at that point, a wavy line. The lid cannot be shaped to fit into those "wide spots". Its like trying to parallel park a Winnebago.
> I route the lip using several shallow passes for the depth and the width. This will minimize chipping and burning.
> I use a rabbet bit with interchangeable guide bearings and start with one that gives me a cut just under 3/8" wide. I go fairly slow on the first shallow pass, not worrying about the burn marks. I cut down to just shy of the full 1/2'' depth, leaving about 1/16''. I then clean this up with a bearing that gives me the full 3/8'' width and also I reset the router to take the full 1/2'' depth.
> 
> Be sure and let the bit stop spinning before lifting the box off, clean away all the chips after each pass, and be sure you move around the bit in the correct direction. This of course will depend on which side of the equator you live on." Here in Oregon, thats clockwise.
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wet the wood with a damp cloth prior to routing to minimize tearout.
> 
> If you dont have a set of bearing, just use a pattern bit and make multiple passes. Depends a lot on the wood.
> 
> Start
> with the edge of the cutter about 1/8 above the table. Use a high speed setting if you have that option and lower the center of the box over the bit and move it in a clockwise direction, (moving into the bit). After a complete pass around the bit,c enter the box over the bit and turn off the router. Clean away all the chips and raise the bit to about 1/4" - 3/8" and repeat. Leave the bit about 1/16 shy of the total 1/2" depth. Last of all, change your guide bearing and raise the bit to exactly 1/2'' deep and make your final pass, moving at a little faster pace to prevent new burns.
> Your final results will depend on the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your bit, and how tight you crossed your fingers.
> 
> Here is the bit set and the router. Also, you can see the bent wrenches for the router I made. I massaged them to fit down into the well by heating them in the woodstove and tempering in oil. But thats another story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close up of the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pass just under our 3/8" width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done @ 3/8" wide x 1/2" deep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next
> Carefully and lightly sand the rabbet just enough to smooth it out.Then sand a very small radius on the inside edge of the lip to ease fitting in the lid. This will prevent denting it as you test fit the lid… over and over.


seriously, thank you for taking the time to do this awesome tutorial on how to your box designs. I really appreciate you sharing these ideas.


----------



## therookie

Argyllshire said:


> *Cut the lip for the lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we have a box body with corner splines.
> Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.
> DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE!
> 
> For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.
> Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we do the medallion.
> Then you could continue on to the shaping if desired.
> For now, just follow along with the tutorial, and continue at your own pace.
> I strongly recommend making a test box. Are you listening to me at all or are you still texting little Sheba?
> You will feel more comfortable when trying out some of the following procedures on a lesser grade of wood.
> 
> Next
> We want the top edge of the box sanded flat in case you havent already done that.
> What we are going to do is route a recess on the inside top edge of the box to recieve the lid.
> We will invert the box over a router fixed in a table. Any bumps at the corner joints on the top of the box will transfer to the lip we are routing down inside. Its much easier to sand the top edge than to sand inside.
> Once the top edge of the box is smooth, remove any sawdust, etc from the inside of the box and the router table so we have a clean surface.
> 
> Next
> We are going to route a rabbet, a lip, inside the box, all the way around. It will finish at 3/8'' wide x 1/2'' deep.
> Keep in mind that any chipping is a real issue with this style of box. Any variations along the gap, which is called the reveal, between box and lid, will really jump out. We do need a gap between the lid and box for the lid to open, but it needs to be small and very even. Capiche?
> NO? OK, OK, then look at it this way,, if you sand out a chip, or deep router burn on the inside lip of the box it makes a divot, meaning it becomes wider at that point, a wavy line. The lid cannot be shaped to fit into those "wide spots". Its like trying to parallel park a Winnebago.
> I route the lip using several shallow passes for the depth and the width. This will minimize chipping and burning.
> I use a rabbet bit with interchangeable guide bearings and start with one that gives me a cut just under 3/8" wide. I go fairly slow on the first shallow pass, not worrying about the burn marks. I cut down to just shy of the full 1/2'' depth, leaving about 1/16''. I then clean this up with a bearing that gives me the full 3/8'' width and also I reset the router to take the full 1/2'' depth.
> 
> Be sure and let the bit stop spinning before lifting the box off, clean away all the chips after each pass, and be sure you move around the bit in the correct direction. This of course will depend on which side of the equator you live on." Here in Oregon, thats clockwise.
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wet the wood with a damp cloth prior to routing to minimize tearout.
> 
> If you dont have a set of bearing, just use a pattern bit and make multiple passes. Depends a lot on the wood.
> 
> Start
> with the edge of the cutter about 1/8 above the table. Use a high speed setting if you have that option and lower the center of the box over the bit and move it in a clockwise direction, (moving into the bit). After a complete pass around the bit,c enter the box over the bit and turn off the router. Clean away all the chips and raise the bit to about 1/4" - 3/8" and repeat. Leave the bit about 1/16 shy of the total 1/2" depth. Last of all, change your guide bearing and raise the bit to exactly 1/2'' deep and make your final pass, moving at a little faster pace to prevent new burns.
> Your final results will depend on the wood you are cutting and the sharpness of your bit, and how tight you crossed your fingers.
> 
> Here is the bit set and the router. Also, you can see the bent wrenches for the router I made. I massaged them to fit down into the well by heating them in the woodstove and tempering in oil. But thats another story.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A close up of the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first pass just under our 3/8" width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done @ 3/8" wide x 1/2" deep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next
> Carefully and lightly sand the rabbet just enough to smooth it out.Then sand a very small radius on the inside edge of the lip to ease fitting in the lid. This will prevent denting it as you test fit the lid… over and over.


cool


----------



## Argyllshire

*The Lid*

Updated 1/15/12

Regarding wood movement:
Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.
This is what works for me.

I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip. Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish. But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges, that its very easy to get a sloppy fit. This would allow the lid to move from side to side, which will just feel wrong, and the pins may show too much in the gap, and the handle may not drop straight into the seat, and the sides may rub on the way down.

Cutting the lid to size is nothing more than cutting a rectangle exactly the size of the opening and then radiusing the corners.

Here is the lid blank cut to size and prior to rounding the corners…obviously.










I choose to sand the corners to match the profile of the box using a template to first mark out the radius.
I bought a set of cool templates at Woodcraft.










Then its over to the disc sander to get close but leaving enough to fiddle with by hand.










OR you can make a template for the entire top out of ply or masonite or…well you get the picture. With a template you can stick it to your lid and run it around a router with a template bit. It may want to eat a corner or two, thats why I prefer to sand to fit. Just go slowly. Turn down the Rap music and pay attention at this point anyway.










The lid all snug in its new home.


----------



## a1Jim

Argyllshire said:


> *The Lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding wood movement:
> Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.
> This is what works for me.
> 
> I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip. Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish. But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges, that its very easy to get a sloppy fit. This would allow the lid to move from side to side, which will just feel wrong, and the pins may show too much in the gap, and the handle may not drop straight into the seat, and the sides may rub on the way down.
> 
> Cutting the lid to size is nothing more than cutting a rectangle exactly the size of the opening and then radiusing the corners.
> 
> Here is the lid blank cut to size and prior to rounding the corners…obviously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to sand the corners to match the profile of the box using a template to first mark out the radius.
> I bought a set of cool templates at Woodcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its over to the disc sander to get close but leaving enough to fiddle with by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR you can make a template for the entire top out of ply or masonite or…well you get the picture. With a template you can stick it to your lid and run it around a router with a template bit. It may want to eat a corner or two, thats why I prefer to sand to fit. Just go slowly. Turn down the Rap music and pay attention at this point anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid all snug in its new home.


good tutorial well done


----------



## RWR

Argyllshire said:


> *The Lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding wood movement:
> Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.
> This is what works for me.
> 
> I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip. Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish. But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges, that its very easy to get a sloppy fit. This would allow the lid to move from side to side, which will just feel wrong, and the pins may show too much in the gap, and the handle may not drop straight into the seat, and the sides may rub on the way down.
> 
> Cutting the lid to size is nothing more than cutting a rectangle exactly the size of the opening and then radiusing the corners.
> 
> Here is the lid blank cut to size and prior to rounding the corners…obviously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to sand the corners to match the profile of the box using a template to first mark out the radius.
> I bought a set of cool templates at Woodcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its over to the disc sander to get close but leaving enough to fiddle with by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR you can make a template for the entire top out of ply or masonite or…well you get the picture. With a template you can stick it to your lid and run it around a router with a template bit. It may want to eat a corner or two, thats why I prefer to sand to fit. Just go slowly. Turn down the Rap music and pay attention at this point anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid all snug in its new home.


Andy, this is a great tutorial series. Thanks a lot for sharing.


----------



## littlecope

Argyllshire said:


> *The Lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding wood movement:
> Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.
> This is what works for me.
> 
> I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip. Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish. But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges, that its very easy to get a sloppy fit. This would allow the lid to move from side to side, which will just feel wrong, and the pins may show too much in the gap, and the handle may not drop straight into the seat, and the sides may rub on the way down.
> 
> Cutting the lid to size is nothing more than cutting a rectangle exactly the size of the opening and then radiusing the corners.
> 
> Here is the lid blank cut to size and prior to rounding the corners…obviously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to sand the corners to match the profile of the box using a template to first mark out the radius.
> I bought a set of cool templates at Woodcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its over to the disc sander to get close but leaving enough to fiddle with by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR you can make a template for the entire top out of ply or masonite or…well you get the picture. With a template you can stick it to your lid and run it around a router with a template bit. It may want to eat a corner or two, thats why I prefer to sand to fit. Just go slowly. Turn down the Rap music and pay attention at this point anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid all snug in its new home.


Super presentation! You're making it look awful easy…If I ever come across some suitable woods, I'm going to have to attempt this. 
Darn nice of you to take the time to document and photograph your process of creation, many thanks!!


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *The Lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding wood movement:
> Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.
> This is what works for me.
> 
> I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip. Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish. But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges, that its very easy to get a sloppy fit. This would allow the lid to move from side to side, which will just feel wrong, and the pins may show too much in the gap, and the handle may not drop straight into the seat, and the sides may rub on the way down.
> 
> Cutting the lid to size is nothing more than cutting a rectangle exactly the size of the opening and then radiusing the corners.
> 
> Here is the lid blank cut to size and prior to rounding the corners…obviously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to sand the corners to match the profile of the box using a template to first mark out the radius.
> I bought a set of cool templates at Woodcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its over to the disc sander to get close but leaving enough to fiddle with by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR you can make a template for the entire top out of ply or masonite or…well you get the picture. With a template you can stick it to your lid and run it around a router with a template bit. It may want to eat a corner or two, thats why I prefer to sand to fit. Just go slowly. Turn down the Rap music and pay attention at this point anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid all snug in its new home.


Thank you all for reading this and commenting.
Here is chapter 7.
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/9871


----------



## ratchet

Argyllshire said:


> *The Lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding wood movement:
> Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.
> This is what works for me.
> 
> I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip. Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish. But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges, that its very easy to get a sloppy fit. This would allow the lid to move from side to side, which will just feel wrong, and the pins may show too much in the gap, and the handle may not drop straight into the seat, and the sides may rub on the way down.
> 
> Cutting the lid to size is nothing more than cutting a rectangle exactly the size of the opening and then radiusing the corners.
> 
> Here is the lid blank cut to size and prior to rounding the corners…obviously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to sand the corners to match the profile of the box using a template to first mark out the radius.
> I bought a set of cool templates at Woodcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its over to the disc sander to get close but leaving enough to fiddle with by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR you can make a template for the entire top out of ply or masonite or…well you get the picture. With a template you can stick it to your lid and run it around a router with a template bit. It may want to eat a corner or two, thats why I prefer to sand to fit. Just go slowly. Turn down the Rap music and pay attention at this point anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid all snug in its new home.


Andy;
I really want to take a shot at making at least one of these boxes, but I'm not sure I understand the procedure for cutting the medallion once the lid inset is cut. You wrote that the medallion is cut the same way as the lid, but to me that procedure only works for a recess. If we use the same process used to cut the recess in the lid then wouldn't the medallion be too small on all sides by 3/4" (2 x's the diameter of the router bit)?
Any help for the confused is appreciated.
Thanks,
TJ


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *The Lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding wood movement:
> Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.
> This is what works for me.
> 
> I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip. Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish. But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges, that its very easy to get a sloppy fit. This would allow the lid to move from side to side, which will just feel wrong, and the pins may show too much in the gap, and the handle may not drop straight into the seat, and the sides may rub on the way down.
> 
> Cutting the lid to size is nothing more than cutting a rectangle exactly the size of the opening and then radiusing the corners.
> 
> Here is the lid blank cut to size and prior to rounding the corners…obviously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to sand the corners to match the profile of the box using a template to first mark out the radius.
> I bought a set of cool templates at Woodcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its over to the disc sander to get close but leaving enough to fiddle with by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR you can make a template for the entire top out of ply or masonite or…well you get the picture. With a template you can stick it to your lid and run it around a router with a template bit. It may want to eat a corner or two, thats why I prefer to sand to fit. Just go slowly. Turn down the Rap music and pay attention at this point anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid all snug in its new home.


Hi TJ, l think I see your problem. Lets look back at the photos, I think they explain the process best. Make a jig as shown that leaves a border around the medallion about 1 1/4'' or so,and cut a recess about 3/8'' deep *using a pattern bit with a bearing that is the same diameter as the bit. *
The medallion is cut to size *after that* to ensure a good fit.

It can be very confusing when laying out templates and bits with different sized bearings.There are other ways to accomplish this same thing,including using template guides,but this is what I had on hand. I do recommend practicing on a dummy box first.

Let me know if this doesnt answer your question, I want you to be able to do this too.


----------



## ratchet

Argyllshire said:


> *The Lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding wood movement:
> Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.
> This is what works for me.
> 
> I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip. Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish. But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges, that its very easy to get a sloppy fit. This would allow the lid to move from side to side, which will just feel wrong, and the pins may show too much in the gap, and the handle may not drop straight into the seat, and the sides may rub on the way down.
> 
> Cutting the lid to size is nothing more than cutting a rectangle exactly the size of the opening and then radiusing the corners.
> 
> Here is the lid blank cut to size and prior to rounding the corners…obviously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to sand the corners to match the profile of the box using a template to first mark out the radius.
> I bought a set of cool templates at Woodcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its over to the disc sander to get close but leaving enough to fiddle with by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR you can make a template for the entire top out of ply or masonite or…well you get the picture. With a template you can stick it to your lid and run it around a router with a template bit. It may want to eat a corner or two, thats why I prefer to sand to fit. Just go slowly. Turn down the Rap music and pay attention at this point anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid all snug in its new home.


Eureka…the light just came on. Doh!
Thanks, I think I've got it now.


----------



## therookie

Argyllshire said:


> *The Lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding wood movement:
> Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.
> This is what works for me.
> 
> I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip. Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish. But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges, that its very easy to get a sloppy fit. This would allow the lid to move from side to side, which will just feel wrong, and the pins may show too much in the gap, and the handle may not drop straight into the seat, and the sides may rub on the way down.
> 
> Cutting the lid to size is nothing more than cutting a rectangle exactly the size of the opening and then radiusing the corners.
> 
> Here is the lid blank cut to size and prior to rounding the corners…obviously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to sand the corners to match the profile of the box using a template to first mark out the radius.
> I bought a set of cool templates at Woodcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its over to the disc sander to get close but leaving enough to fiddle with by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR you can make a template for the entire top out of ply or masonite or…well you get the picture. With a template you can stick it to your lid and run it around a router with a template bit. It may want to eat a corner or two, thats why I prefer to sand to fit. Just go slowly. Turn down the Rap music and pay attention at this point anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid all snug in its new home.


love it


----------



## gashley

Argyllshire said:


> *The Lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding wood movement:
> Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.
> This is what works for me.
> 
> I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip. Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish. But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges, that its very easy to get a sloppy fit. This would allow the lid to move from side to side, which will just feel wrong, and the pins may show too much in the gap, and the handle may not drop straight into the seat, and the sides may rub on the way down.
> 
> Cutting the lid to size is nothing more than cutting a rectangle exactly the size of the opening and then radiusing the corners.
> 
> Here is the lid blank cut to size and prior to rounding the corners…obviously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to sand the corners to match the profile of the box using a template to first mark out the radius.
> I bought a set of cool templates at Woodcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its over to the disc sander to get close but leaving enough to fiddle with by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR you can make a template for the entire top out of ply or masonite or…well you get the picture. With a template you can stick it to your lid and run it around a router with a template bit. It may want to eat a corner or two, thats why I prefer to sand to fit. Just go slowly. Turn down the Rap music and pay attention at this point anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid all snug in its new home.


Andy,
I really appreciate you taking the time to post such a great blog on how you do your boxes. This is one of those "DOH" projects where once you do it, you realize the techniques are really quite simple and make sense. 
I made a run of 3 of these boxes out of Claro Walnut with quilted maple inserts to give out as gifts. I wasn't really happy with how my sculpting/carving of the boxes came out (they didn't really flow organically the way I would have liked - but the recipients all loved them) but have some good ideas on what I want to do next time I get down to doing these.
Thanks again for your contributions around here.


----------



## abie

Argyllshire said:


> *The Lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding wood movement:
> Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.
> This is what works for me.
> 
> I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip. Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish. But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges, that its very easy to get a sloppy fit. This would allow the lid to move from side to side, which will just feel wrong, and the pins may show too much in the gap, and the handle may not drop straight into the seat, and the sides may rub on the way down.
> 
> Cutting the lid to size is nothing more than cutting a rectangle exactly the size of the opening and then radiusing the corners.
> 
> Here is the lid blank cut to size and prior to rounding the corners…obviously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to sand the corners to match the profile of the box using a template to first mark out the radius.
> I bought a set of cool templates at Woodcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its over to the disc sander to get close but leaving enough to fiddle with by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR you can make a template for the entire top out of ply or masonite or…well you get the picture. With a template you can stick it to your lid and run it around a router with a template bit. It may want to eat a corner or two, thats why I prefer to sand to fit. Just go slowly. Turn down the Rap music and pay attention at this point anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid all snug in its new home.


Andy:
Great tutorial and I am just now starting. Had to re read procedures but I am doing as you say by trying on a practice box first
Wonderful pictures and once I have re read it twice I finally get it
again another light is lit.
TNX again.
PS: I am working on palm boxes too.
Bruce 
re tired and tired too.


----------



## raydawg

Argyllshire said:


> *The Lid*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Regarding wood movement:
> Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.
> This is what works for me.
> 
> I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and lip. Feel free to start off with a small gap (1/16) or so if you wish. But keep in mind that as you sand your mating edges, that its very easy to get a sloppy fit. This would allow the lid to move from side to side, which will just feel wrong, and the pins may show too much in the gap, and the handle may not drop straight into the seat, and the sides may rub on the way down.
> 
> Cutting the lid to size is nothing more than cutting a rectangle exactly the size of the opening and then radiusing the corners.
> 
> Here is the lid blank cut to size and prior to rounding the corners…obviously.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I choose to sand the corners to match the profile of the box using a template to first mark out the radius.
> I bought a set of cool templates at Woodcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then its over to the disc sander to get close but leaving enough to fiddle with by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR you can make a template for the entire top out of ply or masonite or…well you get the picture. With a template you can stick it to your lid and run it around a router with a template bit. It may want to eat a corner or two, thats why I prefer to sand to fit. Just go slowly. Turn down the Rap music and pay attention at this point anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid all snug in its new home.


Andy,

Revisiting this fantastic tutorial. I am attempting making one of these boxes and have partially made the dummy box.

I don't have a single large enough board to make the lid out of. My idea is edge join two pieces of alder, then continue on as outlined here on your tutorial.

Do you think I will have problems later when I add the medallion and start the shaping?


----------



## Argyllshire

*The Medallion*

Updated 1/15/12

Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.









We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
*Here is how I made this one:*

#1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.










#2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling. 
Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.










The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly. 









*Tip:*
Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.

Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.

*The best way to prevent this from happening is to:* 
Work from the center out
Work at a slow and even pace 
Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
Wet the edges with a damp rag
Make multiple passes










And here is how the test block fits into the recess.









This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.










The handle comes next.


----------



## woodpeckerbill

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Andy, good tutorial. Great looking boxes. Nice selection of wood. Kudos.


----------



## majeagle1

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


I've been following along and this is wonderful Andy…........... you are doing a great job and providing great instructions and tips. Keep it up and thanks again.


----------



## Kindlingmaker

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Super! Super good job! Ok when are you going to start your video series on PBS? ; ) Really, I do thank you for this blog, it's great!


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Boy…...thank you all for the support
I know I am probably giving way too many details for most of you,so I thank you for your patience.
My goal is to encourage everyone regardless of ability, to try their hand at this project.

Hopefully,my thoroughness will prevent you from making many of the same mistakes I have made.
And I am looking forward to seeing what you will come up with.I hope to learn better ways to make these boxes,to learn from your experience.

*Dont hesitate *to let me know of any errors in my write up,or questions you need answered.
Please do that right here in the comments section.That will minimize duplication of the same concerns,and also,everyone can read the answer.


----------



## PKP

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


great tutorial! Thanks for takeing the time to write it. Well Done! Hope you will do more tutorials you are very good at explianing your work and with pics it really helps to see what your talking about.


----------



## sbryan55

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Andy, this is an excellent tutorial series. You have explained it well and documented the process thoroughly. You certainly have made it clear for me.


----------



## Radish

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


I've been following along with a deep appreciation of your dedication to sharing this with us. It's a lot of work and a labor of love indeed. Thanks - I'll remain a loyal reader!


----------



## Jonathan55

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


I just found this tutorial and picked out a piece of mahogany and a piece of poplar to start with! I've made a lot of boxes from books and magizines but this is one of the most interesting boxes I've seen.

Thanks!


----------



## a1Jim

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Hey Andy
This is spectaular totorial well done.


----------



## Russel

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Andy, this is good stuff. I wish I were in a position to build as you teach, but scheduling is not allowing that. We won't mention that my skills might also get in the way. But I've marked each entry for future reference and will be putting this information to work as soon as I can. Thanks for all the detail.


----------



## Lee

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Andy…I just finished printing off your tutorials. I think you have good presentation skills. Love your work and thanks for sharing your expertise. I don't know who said it, but, "a candle looses nothing if it lights another candle" Hope you'll do more.

Lee


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


I am glad that this series is making sense.I dont have any formal training,so I am trying to write this in the way I would want to read it.
Thanks to all of you for reading this series and taking time to make positive comments.
I am working on the next chapter,but it will be a few days before I will have it ready to post.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


The link will take you to the *helpful hints *page.
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/9943#comments


----------



## cwdance1

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Great job and keep the tutorials coming. 
I need to complete my box. 
Thanks for sharing


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Here is the next chapter.
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/10058


----------



## gfadvm

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Andy
If you dont rout the lip,where do you place the hinge pins so the top will open.This looks a lot easier as I just made the same mistake you did on your demo box.Thankfully,this was my pine practice box!I want to inset the lid like yours,but wil use stop inside box rather than route the lip.Thanks for the great tutorial.You are my woodworking role model.
gfadvm


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


gfadvm- If you dont route the top, which will allow the lid to set into a recess, then the pins wont work for hinges. You will need to use the barrel hinges or some sort of butterfly style.
Thanks for the compliment, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with, send me a note when you post it.
Andy


----------



## MarkDavisson

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Andy, your craftsmanship is very inspiring to me. Thank you for everything you have put into this blog.

I have a question for you regarding the barrel hinges. If the bottom hinge holes are even slightly out of alignment with the hinge holes in the lid, it will be bad news. Measuring and marking the locations seems a little suspect. Do you have a technique for reliably matching the hole locations prior to drilling?

I have these little buttons with "spikey" tops that came with a doweling jig, and I've thought about inserting those in the lower holes then carefully pressing the lid into position, thus indenting the under-side of the lid, but I thought you might have developed a better way.

Hug those grandbabies.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Mark, thats a good point and the pins would work well for alignment.
I simply set the lid into its recess on the box and mark both hinge locations on the back and transfer the lines onto the mating surfaces. You must be careful, but its not very difficult to get it right.
Have fun,
Andy


----------



## therookie

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


my turn


----------



## Belg1960

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Andy, reading and learning from your great tutorials. I'm a little perplexed by the fact that the top(3rd) layer of strips don't seem to be flush/level where they meet at the corners. being that the router bears on these how do you get a flat bottom?


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


You're right Pat. The picture doesn't show how I leveled up the template with strips of heavy paper prior to using it. But, I found that as long as the bottom is somewhat flat after routing, I can just level it up a little better with a chisel. And a good coat of glue will hold it fine, plus you will never see the joint if it has small gaps.


----------



## Belg1960

Argyllshire said:


> *The Medallion*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.
> DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.
> I typically make the medallion about 1" to 1.5" smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do this next step and it will depend on the router bit you use and the thickness of the material you have to make your template.
> *Here is how I made this one:*
> 
> #1-The photo below shows two layers of strips of 1/2" melamine butted tight to the lid. This will hold the lid in place and make a flat base for the next layer of strips. I used scraps about 3'' wide, running one end past the other, all the way around the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2- Next I mounted a block of wood the exact size of the medallion, centered in the top of the lid in the exact spot I want the recess to be.
> You can use double stick tape, but I prefer screws so it cant get bumped out of place. The holes go away with the milling.
> Now add the last layer of strips, rotating the joints so they are offset with the ones below. Butt this layer up to the center block, making sure its snug, but remember you will need to be able to remove the block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The height will depend on the pattern bit you use. My bit was 1 1/4" PLUS THE BEARING so I ended up with a template stack of 1 1/2". ( 3 layers of 1/2" melamine )
> Thats on the extreme edge of reach for most routers to travel, so If you are buying a bit for this project just get a shorter one and make your jig accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Make it smooth on the inside or you will get bumpy sides. You need to allow the bit to ride on a perfectly smooth face down the sides of your jig, for about 3/8'' of travel. I always do a practice run on a scrap just to be sure the quality of the cut is smooth.
> 
> Its a good idea to remove most of the material in the center using a forstner bit, that way the router bit is only cutting one edge instead of two. If you just plunge into the center of a hardwood like bubinga the bit will chatter because it is trying to cut on all its edges at the same time. Thats not so bad as long as you stay away from the edges, but it can break a 1/4 shank bit. Its hard to believe but this chattering and even chips bouncing around can cause small uneven cuts along the edge that will show up. The only way to fix it is to reposition the jig and recut the recess.
> 
> *The best way to prevent this from happening is to:*
> Work from the center out
> Work at a slow and even pace
> Keep the chips cleared as you get closer to the sides
> Wet the edges with a damp rag
> Make multiple passes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is how the test block fits into the recess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This photo shows the lid nestled into the rim of the box and the medallion setting in its recess. The medallion doesnt need to be this thick, it can be flush with the lid. It all depends on how you want to shape the top. Sometimes I will split a 3/4 board in two pieces and use it for two medallions and just shape a gentle dome on the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The handle comes next.


Thanks, I use playing cards as shims all the time. I guess there is no real stress on the medallion so if its not glued at 100 % its not that big a deal.

I get that the carving process is something that is personal and each person will have a different technique, any other pointers then what you have in the tutorial would be much appreciated.


----------



## Argyllshire

*The Handle*

Updated 1/15/12

At this point we should have an assembled box, with corner splines, a recess cut into the body for the lid to set down into 3/8", and a recess for the medallion cut into the lid that is also 3/8" deep, and the medallion cut to fit.
DO NOT glue in the medallion yet!

Next thing is to make the handle.
I like to attach the handle by cutting a mortise in both the handle and the edge of the lid and slipping in a thin strip of wood, aka a spline. The spline is a scrap left over from your corner splines.

*HOW:*
Insert a 1/8'' bit in your table mounted router and cut a slot in the lid and a matching one in the handle blank, about 3/16'' deep. On the handle, stop your mortise about 3/8'' from the ends. Now cut a spline to slip into the slot and make it about 3/8'' shorter than the length of the slot. This will allow you to slide the handle back and forth to position it. If you do much shaping to the handle it may get shorter, maybe on one side more than the other. The wider slot will let you move it back into center of the lid. Ease the edges of your spline with sandpaper to make it easier to slip in and out. Make sure it is narrow enough to let the handle butt up tight to the body.

Here is one ready to mount.










Now you can do some shaping prior to mounting it. Just be careful to watch the ends where you can cut into the mortise, and allow for sanding later on after its mounted.

*Tip:*
If you feel like you are close to exposing the mortise or just want a visual reminder, place a piece of tape on the ends of the handle.










DO NOT GLUE YOUR HANDLE IN! 
We want our handle loose until we are done shaping the seat in the box. 
If the handle and its seat dont match up nicely we can always make another if its not glued in.

*This picture *shows the seat roughed out.
Cut a kerf with a handsaw at each end of the box lip where we marked the seat for our handle. This will prevent the router from tearing out a chunk of wood. You can use a sharp chisel to remove the waste, but I prefer a spiral bit in my table mounted router. Make several shallow passes and clean up the last bit with a chisel and a sanding block. Just get it to where the lid will close all the way. *Dont cut all the rim off, leave about 1/8 of the front edge where the handle sits so it will hide the edge of the lid or you will be able to see past and into the box.*
Fine sanding can be done later.
You can also do this step with a Dremel or other power tool if you like.









Ready for sanding to fit the handle.









Handle in place after a little more sanding.










Now we will cut the pockets for the box to pivot.


----------



## DanYo

Argyllshire said:


> *The Handle*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we should have an assembled box, with corner splines, a recess cut into the body for the lid to set down into 3/8", and a recess for the medallion cut into the lid that is also 3/8" deep, and the medallion cut to fit.
> DO NOT glue in the medallion yet!
> 
> Next thing is to make the handle.
> I like to attach the handle by cutting a mortise in both the handle and the edge of the lid and slipping in a thin strip of wood, aka a spline. The spline is a scrap left over from your corner splines.
> 
> *HOW:*
> Insert a 1/8'' bit in your table mounted router and cut a slot in the lid and a matching one in the handle blank, about 3/16'' deep. On the handle, stop your mortise about 3/8'' from the ends. Now cut a spline to slip into the slot and make it about 3/8'' shorter than the length of the slot. This will allow you to slide the handle back and forth to position it. If you do much shaping to the handle it may get shorter, maybe on one side more than the other. The wider slot will let you move it back into center of the lid. Ease the edges of your spline with sandpaper to make it easier to slip in and out. Make sure it is narrow enough to let the handle butt up tight to the body.
> 
> Here is one ready to mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can do some shaping prior to mounting it. Just be careful to watch the ends where you can cut into the mortise, and allow for sanding later on after its mounted.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you feel like you are close to exposing the mortise or just want a visual reminder, place a piece of tape on the ends of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DO NOT GLUE YOUR HANDLE IN!
> We want our handle loose until we are done shaping the seat in the box.
> If the handle and its seat dont match up nicely we can always make another if its not glued in.
> 
> *This picture *shows the seat roughed out.
> Cut a kerf with a handsaw at each end of the box lip where we marked the seat for our handle. This will prevent the router from tearing out a chunk of wood. You can use a sharp chisel to remove the waste, but I prefer a spiral bit in my table mounted router. Make several shallow passes and clean up the last bit with a chisel and a sanding block. Just get it to where the lid will close all the way. *Dont cut all the rim off, leave about 1/8 of the front edge where the handle sits so it will hide the edge of the lid or you will be able to see past and into the box.*
> Fine sanding can be done later.
> You can also do this step with a Dremel or other power tool if you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for sanding to fit the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handle in place after a little more sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we will cut the pockets for the box to pivot.


very well presented … I'm glad I marked you as a buddy … I've learned allot from reading your blogs
..
thanks for sharing


----------



## gbear

Argyllshire said:


> *The Handle*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we should have an assembled box, with corner splines, a recess cut into the body for the lid to set down into 3/8", and a recess for the medallion cut into the lid that is also 3/8" deep, and the medallion cut to fit.
> DO NOT glue in the medallion yet!
> 
> Next thing is to make the handle.
> I like to attach the handle by cutting a mortise in both the handle and the edge of the lid and slipping in a thin strip of wood, aka a spline. The spline is a scrap left over from your corner splines.
> 
> *HOW:*
> Insert a 1/8'' bit in your table mounted router and cut a slot in the lid and a matching one in the handle blank, about 3/16'' deep. On the handle, stop your mortise about 3/8'' from the ends. Now cut a spline to slip into the slot and make it about 3/8'' shorter than the length of the slot. This will allow you to slide the handle back and forth to position it. If you do much shaping to the handle it may get shorter, maybe on one side more than the other. The wider slot will let you move it back into center of the lid. Ease the edges of your spline with sandpaper to make it easier to slip in and out. Make sure it is narrow enough to let the handle butt up tight to the body.
> 
> Here is one ready to mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can do some shaping prior to mounting it. Just be careful to watch the ends where you can cut into the mortise, and allow for sanding later on after its mounted.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you feel like you are close to exposing the mortise or just want a visual reminder, place a piece of tape on the ends of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DO NOT GLUE YOUR HANDLE IN!
> We want our handle loose until we are done shaping the seat in the box.
> If the handle and its seat dont match up nicely we can always make another if its not glued in.
> 
> *This picture *shows the seat roughed out.
> Cut a kerf with a handsaw at each end of the box lip where we marked the seat for our handle. This will prevent the router from tearing out a chunk of wood. You can use a sharp chisel to remove the waste, but I prefer a spiral bit in my table mounted router. Make several shallow passes and clean up the last bit with a chisel and a sanding block. Just get it to where the lid will close all the way. *Dont cut all the rim off, leave about 1/8 of the front edge where the handle sits so it will hide the edge of the lid or you will be able to see past and into the box.*
> Fine sanding can be done later.
> You can also do this step with a Dremel or other power tool if you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for sanding to fit the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handle in place after a little more sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we will cut the pockets for the box to pivot.


Andy…I just wanted to say "Thank you" for all the work you have put into this tutorial. You have done an excellant job that I know it has taken you a lot of time and effort. Thanks again for sharing you talent and knowledge.


----------



## newTim

Argyllshire said:


> *The Handle*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we should have an assembled box, with corner splines, a recess cut into the body for the lid to set down into 3/8", and a recess for the medallion cut into the lid that is also 3/8" deep, and the medallion cut to fit.
> DO NOT glue in the medallion yet!
> 
> Next thing is to make the handle.
> I like to attach the handle by cutting a mortise in both the handle and the edge of the lid and slipping in a thin strip of wood, aka a spline. The spline is a scrap left over from your corner splines.
> 
> *HOW:*
> Insert a 1/8'' bit in your table mounted router and cut a slot in the lid and a matching one in the handle blank, about 3/16'' deep. On the handle, stop your mortise about 3/8'' from the ends. Now cut a spline to slip into the slot and make it about 3/8'' shorter than the length of the slot. This will allow you to slide the handle back and forth to position it. If you do much shaping to the handle it may get shorter, maybe on one side more than the other. The wider slot will let you move it back into center of the lid. Ease the edges of your spline with sandpaper to make it easier to slip in and out. Make sure it is narrow enough to let the handle butt up tight to the body.
> 
> Here is one ready to mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can do some shaping prior to mounting it. Just be careful to watch the ends where you can cut into the mortise, and allow for sanding later on after its mounted.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you feel like you are close to exposing the mortise or just want a visual reminder, place a piece of tape on the ends of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DO NOT GLUE YOUR HANDLE IN!
> We want our handle loose until we are done shaping the seat in the box.
> If the handle and its seat dont match up nicely we can always make another if its not glued in.
> 
> *This picture *shows the seat roughed out.
> Cut a kerf with a handsaw at each end of the box lip where we marked the seat for our handle. This will prevent the router from tearing out a chunk of wood. You can use a sharp chisel to remove the waste, but I prefer a spiral bit in my table mounted router. Make several shallow passes and clean up the last bit with a chisel and a sanding block. Just get it to where the lid will close all the way. *Dont cut all the rim off, leave about 1/8 of the front edge where the handle sits so it will hide the edge of the lid or you will be able to see past and into the box.*
> Fine sanding can be done later.
> You can also do this step with a Dremel or other power tool if you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for sanding to fit the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handle in place after a little more sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we will cut the pockets for the box to pivot.


Hey Andy… I really enjoy your blog. Thanks for taking the time to write it up.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *The Handle*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we should have an assembled box, with corner splines, a recess cut into the body for the lid to set down into 3/8", and a recess for the medallion cut into the lid that is also 3/8" deep, and the medallion cut to fit.
> DO NOT glue in the medallion yet!
> 
> Next thing is to make the handle.
> I like to attach the handle by cutting a mortise in both the handle and the edge of the lid and slipping in a thin strip of wood, aka a spline. The spline is a scrap left over from your corner splines.
> 
> *HOW:*
> Insert a 1/8'' bit in your table mounted router and cut a slot in the lid and a matching one in the handle blank, about 3/16'' deep. On the handle, stop your mortise about 3/8'' from the ends. Now cut a spline to slip into the slot and make it about 3/8'' shorter than the length of the slot. This will allow you to slide the handle back and forth to position it. If you do much shaping to the handle it may get shorter, maybe on one side more than the other. The wider slot will let you move it back into center of the lid. Ease the edges of your spline with sandpaper to make it easier to slip in and out. Make sure it is narrow enough to let the handle butt up tight to the body.
> 
> Here is one ready to mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can do some shaping prior to mounting it. Just be careful to watch the ends where you can cut into the mortise, and allow for sanding later on after its mounted.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you feel like you are close to exposing the mortise or just want a visual reminder, place a piece of tape on the ends of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DO NOT GLUE YOUR HANDLE IN!
> We want our handle loose until we are done shaping the seat in the box.
> If the handle and its seat dont match up nicely we can always make another if its not glued in.
> 
> *This picture *shows the seat roughed out.
> Cut a kerf with a handsaw at each end of the box lip where we marked the seat for our handle. This will prevent the router from tearing out a chunk of wood. You can use a sharp chisel to remove the waste, but I prefer a spiral bit in my table mounted router. Make several shallow passes and clean up the last bit with a chisel and a sanding block. Just get it to where the lid will close all the way. *Dont cut all the rim off, leave about 1/8 of the front edge where the handle sits so it will hide the edge of the lid or you will be able to see past and into the box.*
> Fine sanding can be done later.
> You can also do this step with a Dremel or other power tool if you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for sanding to fit the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handle in place after a little more sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we will cut the pockets for the box to pivot.


You are very welcome! Its alot of work,but I enjoy doing it.I hope it is clear and someone can use this info to make a box.I am learning from doing this too.I also anticipate picking up some tricks from some of you.
Thanks again.


----------



## LeeJ

Argyllshire said:


> *The Handle*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we should have an assembled box, with corner splines, a recess cut into the body for the lid to set down into 3/8", and a recess for the medallion cut into the lid that is also 3/8" deep, and the medallion cut to fit.
> DO NOT glue in the medallion yet!
> 
> Next thing is to make the handle.
> I like to attach the handle by cutting a mortise in both the handle and the edge of the lid and slipping in a thin strip of wood, aka a spline. The spline is a scrap left over from your corner splines.
> 
> *HOW:*
> Insert a 1/8'' bit in your table mounted router and cut a slot in the lid and a matching one in the handle blank, about 3/16'' deep. On the handle, stop your mortise about 3/8'' from the ends. Now cut a spline to slip into the slot and make it about 3/8'' shorter than the length of the slot. This will allow you to slide the handle back and forth to position it. If you do much shaping to the handle it may get shorter, maybe on one side more than the other. The wider slot will let you move it back into center of the lid. Ease the edges of your spline with sandpaper to make it easier to slip in and out. Make sure it is narrow enough to let the handle butt up tight to the body.
> 
> Here is one ready to mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can do some shaping prior to mounting it. Just be careful to watch the ends where you can cut into the mortise, and allow for sanding later on after its mounted.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you feel like you are close to exposing the mortise or just want a visual reminder, place a piece of tape on the ends of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DO NOT GLUE YOUR HANDLE IN!
> We want our handle loose until we are done shaping the seat in the box.
> If the handle and its seat dont match up nicely we can always make another if its not glued in.
> 
> *This picture *shows the seat roughed out.
> Cut a kerf with a handsaw at each end of the box lip where we marked the seat for our handle. This will prevent the router from tearing out a chunk of wood. You can use a sharp chisel to remove the waste, but I prefer a spiral bit in my table mounted router. Make several shallow passes and clean up the last bit with a chisel and a sanding block. Just get it to where the lid will close all the way. *Dont cut all the rim off, leave about 1/8 of the front edge where the handle sits so it will hide the edge of the lid or you will be able to see past and into the box.*
> Fine sanding can be done later.
> You can also do this step with a Dremel or other power tool if you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for sanding to fit the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handle in place after a little more sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we will cut the pockets for the box to pivot.


Hi Andy;

You sure did a good job on this series!

Very, very well done!

Lee


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *The Handle*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we should have an assembled box, with corner splines, a recess cut into the body for the lid to set down into 3/8", and a recess for the medallion cut into the lid that is also 3/8" deep, and the medallion cut to fit.
> DO NOT glue in the medallion yet!
> 
> Next thing is to make the handle.
> I like to attach the handle by cutting a mortise in both the handle and the edge of the lid and slipping in a thin strip of wood, aka a spline. The spline is a scrap left over from your corner splines.
> 
> *HOW:*
> Insert a 1/8'' bit in your table mounted router and cut a slot in the lid and a matching one in the handle blank, about 3/16'' deep. On the handle, stop your mortise about 3/8'' from the ends. Now cut a spline to slip into the slot and make it about 3/8'' shorter than the length of the slot. This will allow you to slide the handle back and forth to position it. If you do much shaping to the handle it may get shorter, maybe on one side more than the other. The wider slot will let you move it back into center of the lid. Ease the edges of your spline with sandpaper to make it easier to slip in and out. Make sure it is narrow enough to let the handle butt up tight to the body.
> 
> Here is one ready to mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can do some shaping prior to mounting it. Just be careful to watch the ends where you can cut into the mortise, and allow for sanding later on after its mounted.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you feel like you are close to exposing the mortise or just want a visual reminder, place a piece of tape on the ends of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DO NOT GLUE YOUR HANDLE IN!
> We want our handle loose until we are done shaping the seat in the box.
> If the handle and its seat dont match up nicely we can always make another if its not glued in.
> 
> *This picture *shows the seat roughed out.
> Cut a kerf with a handsaw at each end of the box lip where we marked the seat for our handle. This will prevent the router from tearing out a chunk of wood. You can use a sharp chisel to remove the waste, but I prefer a spiral bit in my table mounted router. Make several shallow passes and clean up the last bit with a chisel and a sanding block. Just get it to where the lid will close all the way. *Dont cut all the rim off, leave about 1/8 of the front edge where the handle sits so it will hide the edge of the lid or you will be able to see past and into the box.*
> Fine sanding can be done later.
> You can also do this step with a Dremel or other power tool if you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for sanding to fit the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handle in place after a little more sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we will cut the pockets for the box to pivot.


On to Chapter 9.
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/10084


----------



## mousejockey

Argyllshire said:


> *The Handle*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we should have an assembled box, with corner splines, a recess cut into the body for the lid to set down into 3/8", and a recess for the medallion cut into the lid that is also 3/8" deep, and the medallion cut to fit.
> DO NOT glue in the medallion yet!
> 
> Next thing is to make the handle.
> I like to attach the handle by cutting a mortise in both the handle and the edge of the lid and slipping in a thin strip of wood, aka a spline. The spline is a scrap left over from your corner splines.
> 
> *HOW:*
> Insert a 1/8'' bit in your table mounted router and cut a slot in the lid and a matching one in the handle blank, about 3/16'' deep. On the handle, stop your mortise about 3/8'' from the ends. Now cut a spline to slip into the slot and make it about 3/8'' shorter than the length of the slot. This will allow you to slide the handle back and forth to position it. If you do much shaping to the handle it may get shorter, maybe on one side more than the other. The wider slot will let you move it back into center of the lid. Ease the edges of your spline with sandpaper to make it easier to slip in and out. Make sure it is narrow enough to let the handle butt up tight to the body.
> 
> Here is one ready to mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can do some shaping prior to mounting it. Just be careful to watch the ends where you can cut into the mortise, and allow for sanding later on after its mounted.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you feel like you are close to exposing the mortise or just want a visual reminder, place a piece of tape on the ends of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DO NOT GLUE YOUR HANDLE IN!
> We want our handle loose until we are done shaping the seat in the box.
> If the handle and its seat dont match up nicely we can always make another if its not glued in.
> 
> *This picture *shows the seat roughed out.
> Cut a kerf with a handsaw at each end of the box lip where we marked the seat for our handle. This will prevent the router from tearing out a chunk of wood. You can use a sharp chisel to remove the waste, but I prefer a spiral bit in my table mounted router. Make several shallow passes and clean up the last bit with a chisel and a sanding block. Just get it to where the lid will close all the way. *Dont cut all the rim off, leave about 1/8 of the front edge where the handle sits so it will hide the edge of the lid or you will be able to see past and into the box.*
> Fine sanding can be done later.
> You can also do this step with a Dremel or other power tool if you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for sanding to fit the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handle in place after a little more sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we will cut the pockets for the box to pivot.


First off thanks for making the blog, it looks like a ton of work. But of course I have a question, I didn't see what you are using for the pins except for the temporary use of nails. What do you use for a permanent pin? I was thinking brazing rod and a plug?? It's entirely possible that I've just overlooked the info. but I've looked several times.

Thanks


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *The Handle*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12
> 
> At this point we should have an assembled box, with corner splines, a recess cut into the body for the lid to set down into 3/8", and a recess for the medallion cut into the lid that is also 3/8" deep, and the medallion cut to fit.
> DO NOT glue in the medallion yet!
> 
> Next thing is to make the handle.
> I like to attach the handle by cutting a mortise in both the handle and the edge of the lid and slipping in a thin strip of wood, aka a spline. The spline is a scrap left over from your corner splines.
> 
> *HOW:*
> Insert a 1/8'' bit in your table mounted router and cut a slot in the lid and a matching one in the handle blank, about 3/16'' deep. On the handle, stop your mortise about 3/8'' from the ends. Now cut a spline to slip into the slot and make it about 3/8'' shorter than the length of the slot. This will allow you to slide the handle back and forth to position it. If you do much shaping to the handle it may get shorter, maybe on one side more than the other. The wider slot will let you move it back into center of the lid. Ease the edges of your spline with sandpaper to make it easier to slip in and out. Make sure it is narrow enough to let the handle butt up tight to the body.
> 
> Here is one ready to mount.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can do some shaping prior to mounting it. Just be careful to watch the ends where you can cut into the mortise, and allow for sanding later on after its mounted.
> 
> *Tip:*
> If you feel like you are close to exposing the mortise or just want a visual reminder, place a piece of tape on the ends of the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DO NOT GLUE YOUR HANDLE IN!
> We want our handle loose until we are done shaping the seat in the box.
> If the handle and its seat dont match up nicely we can always make another if its not glued in.
> 
> *This picture *shows the seat roughed out.
> Cut a kerf with a handsaw at each end of the box lip where we marked the seat for our handle. This will prevent the router from tearing out a chunk of wood. You can use a sharp chisel to remove the waste, but I prefer a spiral bit in my table mounted router. Make several shallow passes and clean up the last bit with a chisel and a sanding block. Just get it to where the lid will close all the way. *Dont cut all the rim off, leave about 1/8 of the front edge where the handle sits so it will hide the edge of the lid or you will be able to see past and into the box.*
> Fine sanding can be done later.
> You can also do this step with a Dremel or other power tool if you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready for sanding to fit the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Handle in place after a little more sanding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we will cut the pockets for the box to pivot.


Thank you Myles. 
No, your correct, I didnt specify what I used in the tutorial. Sorry about that ! 
I have covered the same info on other boxes and fielded that question before, but missed putting it in this blog. Doh! 
I did go back and add it to this one just now, thanks for catching that.

I typically use 1/8 brazing rod or get small pieces at the hobby shop that are usually in better condition. I have plugged the ends with dowell but you will not be able to freely round the sides over, you will need to use much more care, and you still see the plug, so I quit doing it that way. Its a personal choice. 
I look forward to seeing yours, so drop me a note if you wish, so I dont miss it. 
Andy


----------



## Argyllshire

*It all hinges on this.*

Updated 1/16/12

This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box.

I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you.

The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box.

*Chapter 10 will discuss this style.*










The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop strap. ( The Deco box has a comepletely different type of lid as you can see but was included because it has butt hinges.)










You could also use a butt hinge with built in stops, they cost about $30 a pair. 
Or you could use barrel hinges like I did on the Secret box, they run about $16 a pair.

*Chapter 11 will cover this style.*










Or you can just make a lift off lid like I used for the Designer boxes.
I am not going to cover this style at this time.


----------



## KentS

Argyllshire said:


> *It all hinges on this.*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box.
> 
> I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you.
> 
> The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box.
> 
> *Chapter 10 will discuss this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop strap. ( The Deco box has a comepletely different type of lid as you can see but was included because it has butt hinges.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also use a butt hinge with built in stops, they cost about $30 a pair.
> Or you could use barrel hinges like I did on the Secret box, they run about $16 a pair.
> 
> *Chapter 11 will cover this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can just make a lift off lid like I used for the Designer boxes.
> I am not going to cover this style at this time.


This series is great!!!
Thanks for all the time you have put in. I can't wait to try some of this.


----------



## a1Jim

Argyllshire said:


> *It all hinges on this.*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box.
> 
> I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you.
> 
> The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box.
> 
> *Chapter 10 will discuss this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop strap. ( The Deco box has a comepletely different type of lid as you can see but was included because it has butt hinges.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also use a butt hinge with built in stops, they cost about $30 a pair.
> Or you could use barrel hinges like I did on the Secret box, they run about $16 a pair.
> 
> *Chapter 11 will cover this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can just make a lift off lid like I used for the Designer boxes.
> I am not going to cover this style at this time.


Very informitive it looks like the handle is a work of art by itself. good job


----------



## Jonathan55

Argyllshire said:


> *It all hinges on this.*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box.
> 
> I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you.
> 
> The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box.
> 
> *Chapter 10 will discuss this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop strap. ( The Deco box has a comepletely different type of lid as you can see but was included because it has butt hinges.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also use a butt hinge with built in stops, they cost about $30 a pair.
> Or you could use barrel hinges like I did on the Secret box, they run about $16 a pair.
> 
> *Chapter 11 will cover this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can just make a lift off lid like I used for the Designer boxes.
> I am not going to cover this style at this time.


Thank you for all you've put into this! Great boxes and great teaching!


----------



## majeagle1

Argyllshire said:


> *It all hinges on this.*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box.
> 
> I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you.
> 
> The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box.
> 
> *Chapter 10 will discuss this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop strap. ( The Deco box has a comepletely different type of lid as you can see but was included because it has butt hinges.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also use a butt hinge with built in stops, they cost about $30 a pair.
> Or you could use barrel hinges like I did on the Secret box, they run about $16 a pair.
> 
> *Chapter 11 will cover this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can just make a lift off lid like I used for the Designer boxes.
> I am not going to cover this style at this time.


I am really enjoying your entire series, what a fantastic job!!!

I am knee deep in 4 commisioned boxes now but when I am done, I am going back through all the series and start an "Art box" of my own, with your wonderful inspiration. Thanks again Andy !!!!!


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *It all hinges on this.*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box.
> 
> I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you.
> 
> The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box.
> 
> *Chapter 10 will discuss this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop strap. ( The Deco box has a comepletely different type of lid as you can see but was included because it has butt hinges.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also use a butt hinge with built in stops, they cost about $30 a pair.
> Or you could use barrel hinges like I did on the Secret box, they run about $16 a pair.
> 
> *Chapter 11 will cover this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can just make a lift off lid like I used for the Designer boxes.
> I am not going to cover this style at this time.


I am glad this series is making sense.Let me know of any corrections needed.
Thanks for the comments.


----------



## newTim

Argyllshire said:


> *It all hinges on this.*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box.
> 
> I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you.
> 
> The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box.
> 
> *Chapter 10 will discuss this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop strap. ( The Deco box has a comepletely different type of lid as you can see but was included because it has butt hinges.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also use a butt hinge with built in stops, they cost about $30 a pair.
> Or you could use barrel hinges like I did on the Secret box, they run about $16 a pair.
> 
> *Chapter 11 will cover this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can just make a lift off lid like I used for the Designer boxes.
> I am not going to cover this style at this time.


Like reading a good book. Can't put it down.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *It all hinges on this.*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box.
> 
> I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you.
> 
> The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box.
> 
> *Chapter 10 will discuss this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop strap. ( The Deco box has a comepletely different type of lid as you can see but was included because it has butt hinges.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also use a butt hinge with built in stops, they cost about $30 a pair.
> Or you could use barrel hinges like I did on the Secret box, they run about $16 a pair.
> 
> *Chapter 11 will cover this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can just make a lift off lid like I used for the Designer boxes.
> I am not going to cover this style at this time.


Here is where we start the shaping,
http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/10157


----------



## JoeLyddon

Argyllshire said:


> *It all hinges on this.*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box.
> 
> I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you.
> 
> The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box.
> 
> *Chapter 10 will discuss this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop strap. ( The Deco box has a comepletely different type of lid as you can see but was included because it has butt hinges.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also use a butt hinge with built in stops, they cost about $30 a pair.
> Or you could use barrel hinges like I did on the Secret box, they run about $16 a pair.
> 
> *Chapter 11 will cover this style.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can just make a lift off lid like I used for the Designer boxes.
> I am not going to cover this style at this time.


Great tutorial…


----------



## Argyllshire

*Pin Hinges*

Updated 1/16/12

I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.

Here is how its done: 
Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.

It will look like this.










The finished depth.










The finished width.










Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.



















*Pin Location:*

As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges. 
If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.

Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.










Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.

Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*










The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.










Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.










*Tip:*
Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.

*Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.

*This photo* 
shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.










And here we have a working lid.


----------



## a1Jim

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


Super blog interesting work thanks for sharing


----------



## Partridge

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


i guess it is only wood


----------



## BarryW

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


giving the design character and personality…nice work.


----------



## Jonathan55

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


I have wood for several boxes cut. I was thinking my first would have a lift off top like your designer boxes then move on to more complicated. I get the idea that the lid fits snugly to begin with but does it really stay in place when you take the angle grinder to it? I was thinking it might need something like double sided tape.

Also I had some 1/8 walnut for the splines and I used a single dado blade (with a flat grind) from my stack to cut the slots and it came out a little slopy by about 64th or so. I have my fingers crossed. Back to the drawing board.
Jonathan


----------



## cwdance1

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


Please don't stop this blog as I have it all printed out so I can make a box when the instructions are complete.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


Thanks for reading everyone.I am working on the next installment and will post soon I hope.I have a lot going on this summer 

@Jonathan-You are right…tape is a great way to hold the lid in place while shaping.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


And onto the next

http://lumberjocks.com/Argyllshire/blog/10308


----------



## kolwdwrkr

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


It would be great if you had put this as a series to make it easier to follow. Nice box. Have to go see the other blogs on it


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


I agree,but I dont know how to do that.I tried to set this up that way but it didnt work.
Douglas Bordner is going to convert this to a PDF when its complete.Thanks for looking.


----------



## Dalehurst

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


Hi Andy!

Question. "The grinder. Just a 4'' angle grinder,guard removed,and a 5'' flexible sanding disc" - Do you need to have some type of backer for the sanding? When I used my 4" grinder with a 5" flexible sanding disc the disc
pretty much torn apart not long after I stared grinding. Is this normal? The wood is maple. I am using a makita grinder.

Thank You

Bruce


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


Hi Bruce, actually my grinder came with a flexible rubber disc for sanding, the sanding discs set on that.
I took some advice from a fellow Jock and started using the flap sanding discs made for the 4'' grinder and they work great. They are good for scooping out the bowl of a spoon too.
Hope this helps,

Andy


----------



## JoeLyddon

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


Andy, could you give us some Links to the Flapper sanding thingy you're talking about… maybe some pics too?

Sanding is the real Key to this type of sculptured work…

Thank you…


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


Good idea Joe, here is a link to illustrate what I am talking about. You will need to confirm your arbor size. I buy mine at the local hardware store, or home center.
Happy grinding

http://www.shop3m.com/3m-flap-disc-f3mwjbcp0h.html


----------



## Dalehurst

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


Perfect

Thank You Andy

Bruce


----------



## JoeLyddon

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


Very good!


----------



## JerBear123

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


Andy,
Do you do anything special to keep the brass pin in? If not, does it wiggle out over time?


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


I point the end, place a little CA in the hole and tap it in firm but not too hard. They haven't come out yet.


----------



## dalepage

Argyllshire said:


> *Pin Hinges*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sides
> The difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.
> The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open.
> 
> Here is how its done:
> Use the same pattern bit and bearing setup that you just finished using for the lip of the box. What we are going to do is crank the bearing up in several stages to cut deep pockets *just at the back for the lid *to drop down into.
> 
> It will look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finished width.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set a fence 1 1/18'' to 1 3/4'' from the center of the bit.
> You will need to experiment with this depending on your bit and bearing setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pin Location:*
> 
> As the lid drops into the box it scibes a larger arc than it would if we were using barrel hinges or butt hinges.
> If we located the pins at the far back corner, then the lid would contact the back lip before it fully opened.
> After much experimenting, I came up with a placement that allows the lid to swing down into the box and then lean back enough that it will stay open on its own. Also this location will position the pin in the center of the lid, after we grind away the top portion of the lid.
> 
> Remember we have a lid that is 3/4'' thick,and our recess is 1/2'' deep,which leaves 1/4'' of the lid standing out of the box.S o, if we shape the top of the lid down to the lip of the box we will end up with a lid that is only 1/2'' thick at its edges, which places the pin in the center of the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drill the hole the diameter of your brass pins. I use 1/8" brazing rod found at most hardware or welding supply stores.
> 
> Drill about 1 1/2" deep total. I am using a simple jig with steel bushings, one leg is for the left and the jig swings around to do the right. Tou can eyeball it with a hand drill or use a drill press. *If the pins are not in alignment the lid will swing up crookedly and bind up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lid will be off and on several times while you remove the wood on both the lid and box at the back. I use long roofing nails to act as temporary hinges, they are easier to get out. Polish them up so the slip in smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before we can open the lid we need to pare away some wood on the top and bottom, at the very back edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Tip:*
> Wiggle the lid up and down when you have the pins in,even if its a little bit,remove the pins and look for rub marks where its tight and sand those away. Keep doing this.
> 
> *Warning:* I want to caution you about going too fast because it is very easy to remove too much wood at the back, leaving a thin line that will disappear if you grind into it. Final sanding will remove additional wood, aggravating the problem even more. If you arent sure how much wood you have left along the back edge, then just stay away from there when shaping.
> 
> *This photo*
> shows a side view of the lid after beveling the top/back edge and bottom/back edge and corners. Final fine sanding will be done later.
> Here you can see the line where we stopped the top bevel, and if you look to the far right, in the middle, you can see a flat spot about 1/4'' high.That is the only area that is still in contact with the back of the box. Carefully hand sand along this line until the lid opens without rubbing. Do this at a downward taper.
> Keep in mind that your finish will add little material to each surface and you may get areas where it will rub.This is one of those things that depends on many factors including humidity. Just be sure it works pretty good for now and you can fine fit it later just before finishing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we have a working lid.


In regard to the top ground flat ripping blade, You can get a very good Freud "glue line" ripping blade for about $50. This blade is so good that I use it instead of a jointer for my glue joints.

You won't be disappointed in this blade.


----------



## Argyllshire

*Butt or Barrel Hinges*

Under construction.


----------



## scrappy

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Have been following this tutorial and am very impressed. I love the way the top looks like wind blown sand.

Will be trying my hand at one of these soon.

Scrappy


----------



## JoeLyddon

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Hey, that's looking pretty GROOVY! 

COOL…

AWESOME!

Thank you…


----------



## whitedog

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


it's another beauty… thanks for the great tutorial ,very well done, i got a lot out of it.
i'm sorry to see it ending , maybe someday we can talk you into another on your art boards :0)


----------



## a1Jim

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Hey Andy a beautiful and special box


----------



## kolwdwrkr

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


wow thats looking great. Now I have to go back and see the previous blogs. Thanks for sharing


----------



## DanYo

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


this one everything ! very nice


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Thank you all for taking time to comment.
@Scrappy-I was hoping that I could express that effect.Sand dunes,or the beach.Thanks.
@Whitedog-Perhaps I will if there is enough interest.It would be much faster to do than this one


----------



## cwdance1

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Great job,

Being new at this woodworking I realy realy appreciate you taking the time to show me how its done. I have leaned allot from the web site but your work is some of the best on here.

Thanks for sharing.
Terry


----------



## Innovator

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Nice looking shape to a standard box.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


@CWDance-Thank you Terry,and i do hope to see your version someday.

@Innovator-I'm glad you like the shaping.Now I just need to finish it.


----------



## SawTooth1953

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Wow! This step… "carving" the box… that puts a lot of art on top of the fine box-making craft… and I assume this is what you mean when you call it an "Art Box". (IMHO, "shaping" doesn't say enough… to say you 'shaped the box' just doesn't evoke an image of the process you used or of the results you achieved.) I hope this comes across correctly, but I'd say that in this shaping/carving step, you took that 'nice' box and made it beautiful (and unique).

Spence


----------



## clarkey

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Well Andy! l don't know if this is the last step your going to show for these boxes. But l have to say the detail in these tutorials will allow me to build one, however l'm sure l'll make some mistakes along the way but it'll be worth it because l'll also teach myself through these tutorials new methods that will become very handy on other projects. You should have been a tech teacher, l say this because l'm a Facility Maintenance Mechanic with a school board in Canada and l've received help from tech teachers in the past one of whom was a cabinetmaker for a sailboat manufacture. Great job! l look forward to seeing more tutorials , THANKS


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Thanks Spence, sorry for the late reply!

Clarkey, thats very nice of you to say so. I am only good at conveying info if its on a subject I am compassionate about, like this one.Thanks.


----------



## rtriplett

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Andy, I have been making boxes for a few years. I have been wondering what to do to continue to change and grow. 
Thanks for the inspiration and detailed discussion. My angle grinder had a Guard??
Robert


----------



## brutus

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Great job. Thanks for sharing. I think i will try one. First step is to get a moaning stool. I think will need one.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Have fun Brutus and learn to enjoy your time alone with the stool


----------



## Peter1

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Hi Andy,

great series. Have you thought about completing the parts on hinges? I have seen and used a few methods but nothing works consistently for me.


----------



## bannerpond1

Argyllshire said:


> *Butt or Barrel Hinges*
> 
> Under construction.


Andy, thanks for all the time you spent with this tutorial. No doubt it will save a lot of mistakes. I do everything you do until the medallion part. That was worth my time and I really appreciate your expertise. I have some maple burl that's going to be medallions. Thanks!


----------



## Argyllshire

*Shaping*

Updated 1/16/12

*This is the fun part!*

Its scary too! 
The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.

Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*! 
A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.

I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.

*The tools needed:*

First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.









I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.

*The guard was removed for the picture.*










You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.

You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.

Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.

Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
(I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)

I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.

My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.










What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.

*How I do it*:
I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.









































































Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out. 
Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.

Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.










*Next* is the finishing.


----------



## TomFran

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


That's a great "problem" to have, Andy!

Wow! Those are some cute grandchildren.


----------



## Radish

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


A whole crowd of future box recipients. Pretty good summer job there Andy.


----------



## Russel

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Grandkids sure are a distracting bunch, and I can fully understand your inability to resist. Looks like a great bunch of kids, so have fun.


----------



## JoeLyddon

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Hey Andy!

You have a Grand bunch there!

With a bunch like that close by, I'm surprised that you have ANY time for anything else!

*Yes, priorities are Priorities! *


----------



## majeagle1

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


I don't really think you have much problem "acting" like a caring grandfather, I think you are a very "proud" grandfather, and rightly so!!!
Cherish all the moments you can…...........

and BTW, great photography ( composition, lighting, etc…. )

Thanks for sharing


----------



## PineInTheAsh

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


With a heavy schedule staring at me I swore I would not post on LJ today. But, Andy, you got me with those beautiful pics. My grandson's a little too young yet, but I'm looking forward.

Andy, if you took those pictures, you've got a wonderful creative touch.

You know, grandfathers are THE man!

I'm sure you enjoy every moment and are bursting with pride.

Now, I forgot, what was that woodworking project you were working on?

All the best,
Peter


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


*Thanks to everyone for the nice comments and for being patient with me finishing this tutorial.*

@Tom-Thank you,it is a good problem for sure.
@Douglas-I recently the older girls the Designer boxes I posted here on LJ,just a few weeks ago.
@Russel-Yes,they are distracting, in a good way…usually.haha
@Joe-Thats something we often learn too late in life.
@Gene-Thanks.Its pretty easy really.I am glad you like the photos too.
@Peter-I am honored that these photos moved you to comment.Yes,I did take the pictures,another hobby of mine.Thanks.BTW,your grandson will be in the shop before you know it


----------



## JoeLyddon

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Andy, just enjoy it while you can… for whatever it takes… 
You only have ONE chance to do it… so, just Do It…


----------



## Karson

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


They will/can keep you busy even when they are not there.

Great looking kids. they must take after your wifes side of the family. LOL.


----------



## RWR

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Andy,

Great looking grandchildren ,have 5 myself, and great pictures to boot…...love em as much as you can cause they grow up really fast.


----------



## gbear

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


What a great looking bunch of kids…who could ever pull themself away from those wonderful faces…
Enjoy them while you can Andy the "art boxes" will wait.


----------



## bnoles

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


I only have 2 and you see how much time I have to visit here 

Great looking crew Andy and I know you are 6X as proud as I am.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Thnk you all.
@Karson-Thats very perceptive of you.haha


----------



## degoose

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


My grandson is in New Zealand so visits are rare. He is only 6 months or so .. be better a little later when he can annoy me in the workshop LOL


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


@Degoose-haha,prepare yourself now while you have time.Its a blast.


----------



## KentS

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Andy, where *are* your priorities? We have woodworking to do! (just kidding)
Aren't grandkids great. I only have one so far, but she does RULE. I do have another on the way though.
I guess they will affect my shop time shortly.


----------



## Billp

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Your a Lucky man to have all of those smiley faces in your life.


----------



## Billp

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


PS. Andy I just printed off all of the tutorials can thank you enough for sharing you knowledge and skill with us, you really should do a book. I would be the first to buy it.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Thanks Bill,I just might someday.


----------



## a1Jim

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Grand kids first above all. A cute bunch


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Your right Jim,thanks.


----------



## MsDebbieP

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


good thing you have us the heads up-by the photos you would think that they are all angels… devils in disguise… good thing you go them pegged 

Great photos, as well, by the way..


----------



## Carolynne

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Sooooo very very cute!


----------



## Kentuk55

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


gotta luv them Grandkiddo's…


----------



## abie

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Andy:
Iv'e got the grinding down and have several moaning tables/stools…
What's got me stymied is the sanding and smoothing.
I would love to know how you and Greg achieve the smooth results..
I have eight boxes in the works but the sanding is givng me fits.
Dremel/orbital sander, rasp, all leave small grooves which make smooth aa real hassle.
any advice?
Bruce


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Hi Abie, yes it will give you ,its a lot of tedious sanding.
I cant speak for Greg but I typically follow the sweeping contours made by the grinder with a random orbit sander with about #150 grit paper depending of course on the wood and how deep the scratches are. Doing this will redefine the ridges and valleys slightly, but try to follow the pattern you made as close or possible unless you want to adjust the shaping. Use the edge of the sander to get down into the valleys and use a light touch as you go, then follow up with hand sanding.
I wish I could offer more but thats about it, you can do it, stay focused and do a little at a time and learn to enjoy the process, it can be very enjoyable.
Andy


----------



## abie

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


ThX much.
enjoy your tutorials and will attempt to use your methods.
Spent two memorable years at the U of O in Eugene years ago.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Thanks Bruce. Go Ducks!


----------



## Peteybadboy

Argyllshire said:


> *Shaping*
> 
> Updated 1/16/12
> 
> *This is the fun part!*
> 
> Its scary too!
> The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know.
> 
> Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. *But slow down Hotrod*!
> A little care must be used or you will wind up with a ruined box. That has happened to me more than once when I first started playing around with this concept. Just go slow and you will be fine.
> 
> I like to mount my box to a stool or a low bench to keep it from moving. This places it at a comfortable height and allows me to shape the top, front and both sides. To shape the back, I remove the box and reset it facing backwards.
> ( An adustable stool with a top a little smaller than the box would be perfect since you could get at the top and all four sides, and raise it as needed.!)
> I simply screw it to the stool right through the bottom, about center. The hole will get covered on the inside with a liner and a tag with the name of the box, woods, etc., will be pasted over the bottom hole.
> 
> *The tools needed:*
> 
> First of all, get a *Moaning Stool *or chair or something so you will be comfortable if you mess up. If you have been a woodworker very long you no doubt have a contingency plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a *4'' angle grinder with a flexible sanding disc*. I use a 50 -80 grit disc depending on the wood. A flap sanding disc works good too but they tend to burn or gum up so I use it after the heavy work has been done with the sanding disc.
> 
> *The guard was removed for the picture.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a *random orbit disc sander *from start to finish, though it will take longer,and inhibits freedom of movement, at least to me. I like the way I can get wide sweeping strokes by using the angle grinder, because it removes material faster, I can move faster,with a more natural fluid flow.
> 
> You could also use a *Dremel *or a *Foredom* with different attachments.
> 
> Or the old fashioned tried and true tools, chisels and gouges are an option.
> 
> Even a *stationary sander *with a disc and belt will give nice results.
> (I used the radiused edge of my stationary belt sander to do much of the shaping on the sides of the "Deco Box" I used the grinder to establish the top details though.)
> 
> I recently bought a *Merlin* long neck angle grinder and I like it for detail work.The chainsaw works very well for hogging out small bowls and spoons. The carbide disc last forever and is great for recontouring edges and the flap sander eases it all together. Very nice tool for light work with good control.
> 
> My wife got a hold of it and made twenty spoons in a row.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What you use will determine how much control you have and the contours you want. Obviously a small handheld disc sander will allow much more freedom and will cut a tighter pattern than a 12'' stationary sander. Feel free to use what you have, but experiment with it first on some scrap to see what profiles you can get.
> 
> *How I do it*:
> I always start at the top and remover the edges of the medallion and then the lid, shaping a dome.
> Be careful around the hinge area and the handle. You should still have the temporary pins in so they are a reminder of where to keep an eye out.
> After the top is domed I round off the corners. The rest of the shaping depends on what I want to express, how I am feeling, what kind of mood I am in or the music I am listening to. (This is one of the few times I have music on.) So, I cant really explain how to shape a box, its personal. I aim to shape in a way that looks natural, an organic flow, like driftwood has. Thats my style though and may not be yours.
> Here are some pictures of how the shaping developed on this box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I took a 4" random orbit sander with a 100 grit disc and smoothed it all out.
> Here is a picture with just the morning light filtering through a side window. It casts the rest of the box in shadow but really brings out the shaping in the lid.
> 
> Notice how I left a ridge of wood at the hinge location.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next* is the finishing.


Thank you Andy for sharing your skills and knowledge. I am impressed by your sharp edges in your waves,


----------



## Argyllshire

*Dividers*

Updated 1/15/12


----------



## sbryan55

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Andy, thanks for allowing us to come along for the ride on the construction of this box. It has meant a lot to me personally to follow along on the tutorial. I can honestly say that I have learned more about box construction from your tutorial than all of the books that I have read on box making. It has been a wonderful trip and I have enjoyed every post.


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## a1Jim

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Great Blog and wonderful art box


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## Julian

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Wow, Andy! Being that I go to the dunes almost weekly to go to the beach, I can honestly say that you nailed the look.


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## blockhead

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Outstanding job Andy!! The box and the blog are magnificent! The design and colors of this box are a perfect match. Thanks for all of your hard work!


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## Blake

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Awesome tutorial. I have always wanted to try one of theses. I definitely learned a few tricks. Thanks!


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## DanYo

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


a treasure ! beautiful craftsmanship


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## Billp

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Andy you have a knack for teaching, everything is explained so completely. From now on when ever I make a box I 'll say I learned it from Andy.


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## Russel

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


This has been a great series and I appreciate the time you've taken to do it.


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## littlecope

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Great Job, in every way, Andy! Many Thanks!!


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## kcrandy

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


My friend, this is a piece of art.


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## cajunpen

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


It's all been said - but I'll add my two cents - OUTSTANDING craftsmanship. Thank you for all of the effort and time you put into sharing your knowledge.


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## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


I WANT TO THANK ALL OF YOU FOR YOUR KIND WORDS.

THANK YOU!!

I am happy that all the work I put into this paid off.The real proof will be when we start seeing more of these boxes posted right here on LJ.
You can do it !!!


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## gbear

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Yeah…thanks Andy…Now I've used all the ink in my printer!!!


----------



## KentS

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Andy,
I got behind watching your blog while working on mine, but what I've seen is fantastic. Now I'll go back and catch up.
Your boxes are an inspiration, and I'm anxious to try your techniques. Again awesome work
---Kent


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## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


@ gbear-thanks,I hope you didnt print all the pictures too.ha

@ Kent-Thanks also,I look forward to seeing what you craft from my blog.


----------



## MsDebbieP

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


thank you for the wonderful tutorial.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Your very welcome Debbie.I enjoyed it all.
Thanks for your help too.


----------



## mcoyfrog

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Great tutorial, now i hope to apply it to my tongue drums thanks for putting this all together.


----------



## mmh

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Beautifully done and documented! My mind's gears are turning now on creating a unique box of my own!


----------



## daltxguy

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


nice work and tutorial andy. I hope to try my own soon.


----------



## dustyal

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


uh, is that all? No more lessons? Like, why didn't I find this BEFORE I made my three boxes? You've explained the errors of my ways. Nice going.

Seriously, I really appreciate the work and effort you put into this blog. I especially enjoyed the pictures of your "interruptions." To be honest, I might not have started if I had read your blog first. You make it sound simple, but it takes practice. But now that I have practiced… I'll be trying some of your techniques-something I would not normally have tried on my own. Thank you for that. I can see where the art and the function comes together. That, and when I free hand the design, I can call it "art" and not "mistake"?

Again, like all the other comments… very well put together and very much appreciated by me and a whole population of LJ'ers.


----------



## OhValleyWoodandWool

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Andy,

I really appreciate all of the work that youve've put into this series. It is very informative and truly inspiring.

Thanks
Doug


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Doug, thanks for the kind words and support.


----------



## KirkLauritzen

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Andy,
Thank you so much for this awesome tutorial!

I am so impressed with your layout of pictures with detailed instructions on each step. I am so excited to start making my first box - I feel confident "I can make it". I tell you Andy, if you don't submit your tutorials to HGTV, I will! I totally see a show in not only your obvious talent and skill in woodworking, but in explaining how to in a smooth paced informative manner.

This was beyond fun to read.
I'll definitely be watching out for your future postings. Thanks again Andy.

p.s. hey you mentioned a pdf on this tutorial - did it ever come out?


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Wow! Thanks for the high praise Kirk, I am glad it inspired you.
The PDF was the brainchild of Douglas Bordner and he has my go ahead if he really wants to. but I am sure he is very busy like every other woodworker


----------



## Woodhacker

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Andy, I've been away from LJ for 6 months or so and just came across this series today. Your boxes were the first ones that struck me and encouraged me to join LJ and my own boxmaking. I love this style and I'm definitely going to try your techniques sometime. Thanks for putting this series out here…I know it took a ton of time to do.


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Thanks Martin, and glad to have you back again. Drop me a line when you post your box.


----------



## ldavies

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Hi Andy,

Thanks so much for this tutorial. I am going to embark on a box project myself as a present for my wife and another for my mum. I think I may be missing something though. In between #12 and 14 there is not step describing how you finish the box. When I look at #13 it looks like a blog post you did before you even started this series of blogs. Am I missing something?

Lloyd


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Sorry about that Lloyd, #13 is out of line and I dont know how to correct that. It should be before #1.

But take a reread of this one, #14, and you will see that I added a large section on sanding and finishing that I have been working on. This will answer some, but not all of the question I have recieved. As time permits I will do a video and add pictures to walk everyone through the process. It will be after the contest though.
Andy


----------



## ldavies

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Thanks much Andy. Very helpful.

lloyd


----------



## awoodnut

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


thanks Andy that was very helpfull for me in general box building also.

I used the tape to test fit and glue and I did a raised panle for a lid and sanded of the top of a ring box to make a domed lid. Worked great.

Thanks agean

Mike
Central Oregon


----------



## Argyllshire

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Please tag *your* box "art box", and everyones should show up on the same pages.
It would be great to see everyones in a group.
Andy


----------



## mtkate

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


This is inspirational.


----------



## D1st

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Very cool. I think I will make one very soon. Thanks for the class. Whens the next one.


----------



## longgone

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Andy, I saw pictures of your Art Boxes fairly recently and I was extremely impressed with your creativity, ingenuity and just simply put "motivated by their uniqueness". The closest projects I have built that could be vaguely called a box were cabinets and furniture. Never any physically small projects…until seeing your art boxes.
You got me hooked !
I built two so far and plan more. My wife confiscated one and the other is sitting on my desk. I didn't read your complete tutorial until after building these two. 
I read it in its entirety today and just wanted to post my belated compliments and thanks for the inspiration and all of the effort you obviously put into explaining the entire process.
I picked up a lot of great info that will help me in building others. All of your hard work creating the tutorial is greatly appreciated
Thanks!


----------



## yarydoc

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


WOW Great tutorial Andy. You made it idiot proof, even I could understand it. You almost lost me when you took the grinder to it but I came around.  Thanks for posting this now I have another project on my list.


----------



## NewPickeringWdWrkr

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


I just finished reading your entire series and have to say I look forward to attemting this as well. It (of course) will require me to buy a new tool (like I need a reason LOL) in order to do the curves, but that's about it.

Wonderful series! For someone who learns by watching and trying, you made me feel like I was watching you do it!


----------



## twokidsnosleep

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


I am just stumbling on this tutorial and completely blown away by the look of these boxes. Really in awe.
Something to aspire to after I can make the basic square box 
Thanks to Andy for all the work in putting this together.


----------



## Diggerjacks

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Hello Andy

I'm very impressed for the quality of your boxes

Many thanks for the tutorial and the time we have passed to write it
Many thanks many thanks


----------



## woodisgood

Argyllshire said:


> *Dividers*
> 
> Updated 1/15/12


Hello Andy

Thank you very much for sharing your expert knowledge with us and for taking the time to do so.

Fantastic craftmanship.


----------

