# Jet 6" JJ6 Jointer



## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

*just picked up a jointer*

Thanks to your advice and recommendations Lee and Wayne in the previous post . I picked up a used jointer for $90 that I think is in decent condition. The motor seems to be working fine with out any out of the ordinary noise or vibration. Actually its surprisingly quiet when I am not jointing anything. The bed and the fence are cast iron and flat. The fence needs some adjusting as it is not exactly 90 when measured with a square. Here are some pictures.




























Naturally I have some questions 

1. It seems like the blades will need sharpening or replacement. See the first picture below. What type of places would sharpen these blades? or would a replacement me a better idea? The owner said they were never sharpened before.

2. When I jointed a rough board there was significant chatter. Is this normal? It felt like maybe it was cutting too deep or is it just my technique that needs improvement?

3. Anyone have a manual for it where i can figure out how the adjustments for the infeed and outfeed tables work? I have looked all over on line and can only find the manuals for the never models. OWWM did not have anything on Jet which surprised me. There are two knobs on the back side, a pair for each table (see second picture below) and 2 in the front as you can see in the first picture above. I am not sure what these are for..



















thanks in advance


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Camper said:


> *just picked up a jointer*
> 
> Thanks to your advice and recommendations Lee and Wayne in the previous post . I picked up a used jointer for $90 that I think is in decent condition. The motor seems to be working fine with out any out of the ordinary noise or vibration. Actually its surprisingly quiet when I am not jointing anything. The bed and the fence are cast iron and flat. The fence needs some adjusting as it is not exactly 90 when measured with a square. Here are some pictures.
> 
> ...


you could sharpen your blades yourself.

If you want to send them out, you could send them to forrest. Just google forrest sharpening services.

nice find and thanks for posting pics!


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## SnowyRiver (Nov 14, 2008)

Camper said:


> *just picked up a jointer*
> 
> Thanks to your advice and recommendations Lee and Wayne in the previous post . I picked up a used jointer for $90 that I think is in decent condition. The motor seems to be working fine with out any out of the ordinary noise or vibration. Actually its surprisingly quiet when I am not jointing anything. The bed and the fence are cast iron and flat. The fence needs some adjusting as it is not exactly 90 when measured with a square. Here are some pictures.
> 
> ...


Congrats on the new tool. I was thinking maybe the chatter is coming from the dull, chipped, or misaligned blades. You might try sending Jet an email and see if they know where to get a manual. Sometimes the factories know who sells the stuff. Sounds like you got a good price.

Sometimes they have blades for jointers and planers on Ebay.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Camper said:


> *just picked up a jointer*
> 
> Thanks to your advice and recommendations Lee and Wayne in the previous post . I picked up a used jointer for $90 that I think is in decent condition. The motor seems to be working fine with out any out of the ordinary noise or vibration. Actually its surprisingly quiet when I am not jointing anything. The bed and the fence are cast iron and flat. The fence needs some adjusting as it is not exactly 90 when measured with a square. Here are some pictures.
> 
> ...


Congrats on your new tool.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

Camper said:


> *just picked up a jointer*
> 
> Thanks to your advice and recommendations Lee and Wayne in the previous post . I picked up a used jointer for $90 that I think is in decent condition. The motor seems to be working fine with out any out of the ordinary noise or vibration. Actually its surprisingly quiet when I am not jointing anything. The bed and the fence are cast iron and flat. The fence needs some adjusting as it is not exactly 90 when measured with a square. Here are some pictures.
> 
> ...


The knobs are more than likely for table adjustment.
If you are getting chatter you are probably taking too much off in one pass. 1/16 or less per pass is best in MHO.
A few tweaks and it looks like you got a bargain.


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## Abbott (May 10, 2009)

Camper said:


> *just picked up a jointer*
> 
> Thanks to your advice and recommendations Lee and Wayne in the previous post . I picked up a used jointer for $90 that I think is in decent condition. The motor seems to be working fine with out any out of the ordinary noise or vibration. Actually its surprisingly quiet when I am not jointing anything. The bed and the fence are cast iron and flat. The fence needs some adjusting as it is not exactly 90 when measured with a square. Here are some pictures.
> 
> ...


Very nice, it would be tough to beat that price!


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

Camper said:


> *just picked up a jointer*
> 
> Thanks to your advice and recommendations Lee and Wayne in the previous post . I picked up a used jointer for $90 that I think is in decent condition. The motor seems to be working fine with out any out of the ordinary noise or vibration. Actually its surprisingly quiet when I am not jointing anything. The bed and the fence are cast iron and flat. The fence needs some adjusting as it is not exactly 90 when measured with a square. Here are some pictures.
> 
> ...


I have similarknob on the same locations on my delta 6" jointer. The knob are for adjusting the table. 
The one on the side is for locink/unlocking the table and the one in the front-middle is for height adjustment.


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

Camper said:


> *just picked up a jointer*
> 
> Thanks to your advice and recommendations Lee and Wayne in the previous post . I picked up a used jointer for $90 that I think is in decent condition. The motor seems to be working fine with out any out of the ordinary noise or vibration. Actually its surprisingly quiet when I am not jointing anything. The bed and the fence are cast iron and flat. The fence needs some adjusting as it is not exactly 90 when measured with a square. Here are some pictures.
> 
> ...


Great score, camper! The deal o' the day for sure.

I think I can help with several of your questions.

The knives should look razor sharp. They're not. They've got to come out and be sharpened. I don't recommend doing this yourself, especially if oodles has to be taken off to get rid of nicks. Try the yellow pages for "sharpening." The way these are done, usually, is they are all lined up in a jig and all ground at the same time so they have precisely the same angle and end up the same size (weight). It's a pro's job.

Jointers are very generic; I wouldn't obsess about an owner's manual. In fact, try for an older Delta or Rockwell. OWWM pix will get you a model number. You'll learn about gib screws on the ways (the allen screws under the black plastic knob) and what they do, and how to adjust the tables and all that.

To remove the knives: there will be probably three bolts (machine screws) barely visible behind the knives. These thread into the gib, (a different gib from above) which exerts even pressure to keep the knife tight in the slot. These bolts need to be turned into the gib to loosen the knife. You may have to grind one of your open end wrenches thinner to fit into the slot.

The knives may have springs, flat or coil, under them. probably not, that vintage, but be aware. You'll likely want to remove the entire gib with bolts and the knife to clean the slot and the parts.

Wrap those knives in something and boy howdy now you're on your way to the sharpener!

One more hint while you're at this stage: I stamp a unique number on each slot with a number stamp (duh, Lee). It helps keep track when you're reassembling and haven't snugged up all the bolts, and it also helps when you want to loosen one knife and slide it hither or yon to eliminate a new nick showing up on your boards. You do 1 the first time, 2 the next, all right, everybody, all together, "Duh, Lee."


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Camper said:


> *just picked up a jointer*
> 
> Thanks to your advice and recommendations Lee and Wayne in the previous post . I picked up a used jointer for $90 that I think is in decent condition. The motor seems to be working fine with out any out of the ordinary noise or vibration. Actually its surprisingly quiet when I am not jointing anything. The bed and the fence are cast iron and flat. The fence needs some adjusting as it is not exactly 90 when measured with a square. Here are some pictures.
> 
> ...


If you call Jet they will be able to send you a manual. Called customer service for the size bolt heads for the blades and they had no issue giving me the spec.

The model number should be stamped on one of the plates in the front. If you need a place to get blades for the jointer I can send you an address for them. The blades are 20 - 30 dollars. If you order them from Jet they are 75. These are the same blades.

Here is the link to Jet Tools manual page.


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## Retseih (Aug 14, 2010)

Camper said:


> *just picked up a jointer*
> 
> Thanks to your advice and recommendations Lee and Wayne in the previous post . I picked up a used jointer for $90 that I think is in decent condition. The motor seems to be working fine with out any out of the ordinary noise or vibration. Actually its surprisingly quiet when I am not jointing anything. The bed and the fence are cast iron and flat. The fence needs some adjusting as it is not exactly 90 when measured with a square. Here are some pictures.
> 
> ...


awesome link mrg….I think I will download my performax manual.


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## RonPeters (Jul 7, 2010)

Camper said:


> *just picked up a jointer*
> 
> Thanks to your advice and recommendations Lee and Wayne in the previous post . I picked up a used jointer for $90 that I think is in decent condition. The motor seems to be working fine with out any out of the ordinary noise or vibration. Actually its surprisingly quiet when I am not jointing anything. The bed and the fence are cast iron and flat. The fence needs some adjusting as it is not exactly 90 when measured with a square. Here are some pictures.
> 
> ...


Nice score. I have a newer version of that planer.

I find that taking a small bite works the best.


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## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

Camper said:


> *just picked up a jointer*
> 
> Thanks to your advice and recommendations Lee and Wayne in the previous post . I picked up a used jointer for $90 that I think is in decent condition. The motor seems to be working fine with out any out of the ordinary noise or vibration. Actually its surprisingly quiet when I am not jointing anything. The bed and the fence are cast iron and flat. The fence needs some adjusting as it is not exactly 90 when measured with a square. Here are some pictures.
> 
> ...


Thanks a lot for all the feedback.

First off let me give props to Jet. I e-mailed them last night and today they sent me a pdf of the manual they had on file. Definitely living up to the fine reputation they have built. the representative also asked me to contact her if I had any questions.

Before I received the e-mail, I looked around and found great similarity with this model (JJ-6)and Delta 37-220 and Jet JJ-6CSX both of which have manuals available on the web. The latter is a newer model and the manual is very well written.

*Hookie* and *Abbas*, I am not sure that I have the abilities or the set up to sharpen the blades so they are gona be sent out. I heard that this place is a reputable place with reasonable prices (50cents/inch) but have not called them yet. Looking to find a local place. Ace hardware does sharpening but I am not sure I trust them. new blades are around $20 which is an option.

*Wayne*, the source of the chatter could be any of the things you suggested. It definitely is not smooth like the jointers I have seen on youtube. I guess we will see.
*
Howie*, it seems like the from ones are for table height adjustment, and the side ones are for locking the tables. Have not figured out the two by the belt but the manual should help. I am hoping the same, a few adjustments and sharpening and it should all be good.

*Lee*, thanks again for your detailed and humorous post. I think between what you describe and the manuals I should be OK. Quick question though, do I need to mark anything before I take the knives off? I have read a couple of places that I should mark the TDC….just not sure…the manuals did not say anything about that..

*Mrg,* you guessed it, Jet came through 

and finally Wayne, Beginningwoodworker, Abbot, Lee and Ron, thank you for your kind words. I think it is a good machine and the owner (previous) was very kind to let me have it.

I will try to document the process as I figure it out…probably with more questions than documentation.

time to go look at the manuals….


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## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

*frankenjointer...*

this is turning out to be a sort of mystery jointer….

After looking at the manual jet sent me for the jj-6 model I noticed significant differences between the jointer i have and the jointer in the manual. Probably the most important part is the fence. The fence on the jointer i have hooks to the end of the infeed table (see pics in part 1 of the blog..very similar to the delta 37-220 models) and the jointer in the manual jet sent me, the fence is hooked up at the middle of the jointer, between the two tables…sort of like the new jet jointers.

I also removed the knives over the weekend(will post pictures later) and the gib screws listed as 1/4"X1/4"-18 UNF in the manual are actually 1/4"X1/4"-28. I actually could not find a screw anywhere designated as 1/4-18, its either 1/4-20 or 1/4-28.

So I took a couple of pictures, e-mailed jet customer support and then followed up with a call to tech support. Again, very very helpful (so far jet's customer service has been impressive). I spoke with the tech who had received my pictures and he agreed that while the tables are exactly like jet's tables the fence did not look familiar which also means the infeed table is different since thats where the fence is attached to the jointer..he asked to have another day to research and took my number to get back to me.

Finally, while the labels on the machine clearly say model jj-6, there is no serial number (meaning teh serial number area is blank)....

So far I am calling it the "frankenjointer" until we figure out what it is….a jet with a delta fence.

thanks for looking and your ideas/comments to help solve this mystery are appreciated


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Camper said:


> *frankenjointer...*
> 
> this is turning out to be a sort of mystery jointer….
> 
> ...


the fence actually looks like the rockwell/delta old fences - which are good fences, but I've never seen that fence on a Jet - until now.

FYI, the base the jointer is sitting on also looks like the rockwell part:


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

Camper said:


> *frankenjointer...*
> 
> this is turning out to be a sort of mystery jointer….
> 
> ...


I have just rebuilt an older Delta 6" jointer about a model 37-307, the only numbers on it were Serial No. 2-561,
and the motor rpm is 1725 rpm. To get the jointer knife rpm correct Delta recommended a 7" pulley on the
motor. You might want to check with Jet to get the correct rpm on your jointer knives, that could be part
of the chatter you mentioned. If I figure how to post pictures, I will put pictures of my jointer on this site.
I only paid $50 for mine, but I had to build a base and replace the bearings in the jointer knive assembly and 
the electric motor, and replace the jointer knife pulley. It works great now.


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## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

Camper said:


> *frankenjointer...*
> 
> this is turning out to be a sort of mystery jointer….
> 
> ...


I just got off the phone with Jet and there are some interesting news about this jointer.

It is a Jet jointer 100%...not a "frankenjointer".....

In addition, it is one of the first jointers ever made by Jet. It was manufactured in 1984. This model was produced only during that year and then was replaced by the more widely available version of JJ-6 model. Seems like I stumbled upon a bit of history here. very exciting…

The challenge is that there are no spare parts available for this and no documentation other than an exploded parts diagram. If you have been following this, I need some gib screws for the cutterhead and it seems like either I will have to "manufacture" them myself or hope that one of the newer models match the parts that were used in this jointer.

I spent a long time on the phone with Jet tech support(again props for their responsiveness and professionalism in helping me out) measuring screws for exisiting models and it seems like their newer jointers use the same screws. An alternative would be to get 3 new gibs and matching 12 screws and hope that they fit my cutter head. I am not sure what I will do but I may try to get screws off the shelf with matching pitch and diameter and grind them down to proper length. Any do's and don'ts would be appreciated from the more experienced.

Thanks for looking and your comments


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

Camper said:


> *frankenjointer...*
> 
> this is turning out to be a sort of mystery jointer….
> 
> ...


Hey Camper, think we might drill and re tap the holes?
Howie


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## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

Camper said:


> *frankenjointer...*
> 
> this is turning out to be a sort of mystery jointer….
> 
> ...


Hey Howie, I guess that is an option but maybe before we do that, I am pretty sure that the screws are 1/4X1/4-28…I have been able to find 3/8×1/4-28 screws and if we ground the ends off 1/8" and filed them we could solve the problem.

Even if we re-tap the holes we would still need to grind off-the-shelf screws since the smallest i can find is 3/8" long for any size. Jet has 1/4×1/4 screws for their new jointer but the pitch is not specified. Tech support believes they are 28. Currently I am looking at other jointers which may have similar replacement screws where the specs are listed. I would hate to order some and not get mathcing ones.

Maybe womeone who knows their gib screw sizes will chime in…

To top it all off I do not have much experience with grinding nor a grinder so maybe you can help me with the grinding if I cannnot get the appropriate size screws.


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

Camper said:


> *frankenjointer...*
> 
> this is turning out to be a sort of mystery jointer….
> 
> ...


I am pleased you are excited about the history of this tool. There's something about its "orphanness" that I find compelling.

If you try to retap the gibs, you'd risk the new bolt heads being too large to allow the gib to bottom in the slot.

Grinding an eighth off new bolts will not be difficult, just take a little time and care. It can be done on a belt sander, but a grinder will be easier. I would put washers on the bolt, screw it snugly into the gib so the eighth is sticking out the back, and grind it flush, carefully. It never really needs to be removed from the gib thereafter, so just checking to be sure nothing prevents it from reversing a slight amount is all you'll need.

Any LumberJocks in Camper's area? Somebody that could lend a hand so we can all celebrate the return to good health of this collector's item jointer?


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

Camper said:


> *frankenjointer...*
> 
> this is turning out to be a sort of mystery jointer….
> 
> ...


Camper, check my PM. We may have solved this in one of the weirder coincidences of the month…


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## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

Camper said:


> *frankenjointer...*
> 
> this is turning out to be a sort of mystery jointer….
> 
> ...


Hi Lee, thanks A LOT for the hook up. I just got off the phone with Avi. He will get back in touch once he gets home. This just may have come at a time when I was running out of options. (see the next blog entry).

Also, Howie(an LJ) lives pretty close to me. We actually hooked up last weekend and spent some quality time in his shop. I am sure he will be able to help me out with any mods if necessary.


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## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

*hunt for the knife set screws*

well I was finally able to find a screw with matching thread in one of the box stores but this time the head size is the problem. Its about 1/8" bigger than the original screws. Here are some pictures showing it on the gib. they are just too big and protruding from the edge of the gib which will likely interfere with the cutting. It seems like just grinding the length down does not seem to be an option . At least we now know what will probably not work…

here is a shot of both screws on the gib









the original from the back









the not so matching replacement


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

Camper said:


> *hunt for the knife set screws*
> 
> well I was finally able to find a screw with matching thread in one of the box stores but this time the head size is the problem. Its about 1/8" bigger than the original screws. Here are some pictures showing it on the gib. they are just too big and protruding from the edge of the gib which will likely interfere with the cutting. It seems like just grinding the length down does not seem to be an option . At least we now know what will probably not work…
> 
> ...


You're right-now we know what won't work! And no amount of duct tape or WD-40 will change that.

But there's hope!


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Camper said:


> *hunt for the knife set screws*
> 
> well I was finally able to find a screw with matching thread in one of the box stores but this time the head size is the problem. Its about 1/8" bigger than the original screws. Here are some pictures showing it on the gib. they are just too big and protruding from the edge of the gib which will likely interfere with the cutting. It seems like just grinding the length down does not seem to be an option . At least we now know what will probably not work…
> 
> ...


i don't have a great idea for a source, but there has to be someplace online that caries unusual sized hardware. shipping on a single screw can't be that bad either I'd hope.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

Camper said:


> *hunt for the knife set screws*
> 
> well I was finally able to find a screw with matching thread in one of the box stores but this time the head size is the problem. Its about 1/8" bigger than the original screws. Here are some pictures showing it on the gib. they are just too big and protruding from the edge of the gib which will likely interfere with the cutting. It seems like just grinding the length down does not seem to be an option . At least we now know what will probably not work…
> 
> ...


Hey Camper, try McFeely's.Com see if they have anything.


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## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

Camper said:


> *hunt for the knife set screws*
> 
> well I was finally able to find a screw with matching thread in one of the box stores but this time the head size is the problem. Its about 1/8" bigger than the original screws. Here are some pictures showing it on the gib. they are just too big and protruding from the edge of the gib which will likely interfere with the cutting. It seems like just grinding the length down does not seem to be an option . At least we now know what will probably not work…
> 
> ...


no go on Mcfeely's Howie, neither do mcmaster carr or grainger carry that size.

Hokie, I am open to suggestions, couple of places carry the screws for the new jet jointers (coincidentally jet is out of stock, ereplacement parts says 1-2 weeks to ship and I think mike's tools has them in stock.)....worst case I will order those and try them if someone can match the thread size over the phone.


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## dlmckirdy (Oct 27, 2009)

Camper said:


> *hunt for the knife set screws*
> 
> well I was finally able to find a screw with matching thread in one of the box stores but this time the head size is the problem. Its about 1/8" bigger than the original screws. Here are some pictures showing it on the gib. they are just too big and protruding from the edge of the gib which will likely interfere with the cutting. It seems like just grinding the length down does not seem to be an option . At least we now know what will probably not work…
> 
> ...


Camper,

Have you considered also the grade of the fastener. How much shear/tension will the fastener need to withstand? I see you have found a Grade 5 bolt. Although this is better than a "common" (ungraded) bolt, it is not made for great shear/tension. A Grade 8 fastener would probably be safer, though harder to machine down to size, if needed.

Since the hex head is too large, you might consider a philister head, with an Allen or Torx type socket in the head, or a 12 point head. Possible even another type of machine screw head (Phillips, Slotted, Torx, 12 point, etc.). You might try a machinery repair/parts house. They might even have the correct length. Try http://www.specialty-fasteners.com/.

Good luck,


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## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

*two steps forward one step back*

it has been a while since the last update and in the meantime I was able to clean up the jointer real good and figure out what knob does what. I will post some pictures when its up and running, probably the next blog entry.

More importantly I was able to find some screws!!! I ended up ordering screws for the new jet 6" jointer after looking around all over the place without much luck. Figured if anything is going to fit, these would be it. Well they arrived today and their thread and size fit perfectly. I was real excited and started setting the knives. Of course this was too good to be true and I come to find out that, the head of the screw, though the right size, its TOO THICK and would not fit in the slot in the cutter head.

*This is where i need some help.* I started sanding down the heads of the screws to match the thickness of the head of the old screws. I can sand them down enough to fit in the slot. Thats good news I guess.

In the picture below, you can see one of the new screws sanded down on the top left (square heads are new screws and hex heads are old screws), and old screw next to it and in the gib below 3 new screws and an old one. Have several questions as follows:

1. Old screws have a flat top and the new ones sort of come to a rounded peak in the center. when I sand them down would it make sense to leave a rounded peak like the new ones of sand them down flat like the old ones? They are butting up against a flat surface inside the grove in the cutterhead. To me it seems like the larger the contact area, the better the grip…

2. I am slightly concerned regarding the safety of all this as these are after all holding newly sharpened blades spinning at a very high rate. I do not want to think about what could happen if one was to fly out of the cutterhead. Do you think this is a concern since I am modding these screws?

3. Following up on question 2, I have to use 5 new screws. Should I divide them up evenly between the three cutters like 2-2-1 so that there is at least 2 old screws holding down each blade?

4. Or am I being too paranoid and this is a simple and safe design where the pressure applied by the screws is so high that the once they are tight in the slot in the cutterhead the blades are going nowhere.

Thank you for reading and your advice and I understand the disclaimer that I do whatever I do at my own risk . I am planning on setting the knives first thing tomorrow morning so any advice you can give me would be great help.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Camper said:


> *two steps forward one step back*
> 
> it has been a while since the last update and in the meantime I was able to clean up the jointer real good and figure out what knob does what. I will post some pictures when its up and running, probably the next blog entry.
> 
> ...


I don't tjhink you need to mix the screws, but are you going to be able to turn them since they are square. They look like they won't clear the bottom.


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## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

Camper said:


> *two steps forward one step back*
> 
> it has been a while since the last update and in the meantime I was able to clean up the jointer real good and figure out what knob does what. I will post some pictures when its up and running, probably the next blog entry.
> 
> ...


it works!!! Finally!!!

mrg…you had me worried for a sec but the screws cleared the bottom w/o problem.


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

Camper said:


> *two steps forward one step back*
> 
> it has been a while since the last update and in the meantime I was able to clean up the jointer real good and figure out what knob does what. I will post some pictures when its up and running, probably the next blog entry.
> 
> ...


I have had square headed screws on jointers and it seem to work fine. I would like to see the heads flattened. Everything will be better.

I would drive all three new ones into a gib, down snug, and clamp the gib in a vise and file all three at the same time.

Yes, your perception of what is happening when the machine is running is correct, but there is lots of good metal to metal contact there. Don't let your concerns cause you to overtighten the screws. They need to be tight, but not torqued into submission.

I like to set all the knives with all the screws snugged and then go around and check each one just to be sure.

Did you get to watch Vaughn's video? Very valuable in a lot of ways.


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## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

*finally its all in one piece and ready for making saw dust*

After all the dust settled with the screws, I was able to set the jointer knives and all seems to be working great. Ironically the first pieces I jointed are for a mobile base for the jointer which I will describe in a different blog.

Before it went back on the stand, I built a new wooden platform for it and tossed the old one out. I also glued pieces of rubber (the rubber is for making custom gaskets that I had on hand) figuring it would reduce vibration. i am not sure if it helps but it cannot hurt. here is a picture.










While setting the knives, I found (on the web) a lot of different ways to do it with dial gauges and magnets. I used magnets and it seemed to work fairly well. Actually first I set both tables the same height using a dial gauge. Thanks to Howie(another LJ), he let me borrow a dial gauge base that also has a large strong magnet for a base(its from HF). Then I simply placed the magnet across the tables and tighten the set screws at TDC for all 3 knives. The final check was a visual check which involved looking straight across from the infeed table at the same level as the table and you can see the height of the knives real well. Actually I put a paper behind it for contrast and by turning the cutter head you can watch both ends of the knife disappear as it goes below the table. Here is a picture that may clarify it all.










Finally built two push blocks to keep my fingers away from the sharp blades. Here it is ready for action.










Thanks again for all of you who helped me with your comments on the blog as well as PMs (especially Howie and Lee) ..the moral of the story is do not strip your set screws, otherwise its a walk in the park


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Camper said:


> *finally its all in one piece and ready for making saw dust*
> 
> After all the dust settled with the screws, I was able to set the jointer knives and all seems to be working great. Ironically the first pieces I jointed are for a mobile base for the jointer which I will describe in a different blog.
> 
> ...


That is beautiful. You must be so proud. I can't wait to get mine up and running.


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## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

Camper said:


> *finally its all in one piece and ready for making saw dust*
> 
> After all the dust settled with the screws, I was able to set the jointer knives and all seems to be working great. Ironically the first pieces I jointed are for a mobile base for the jointer which I will describe in a different blog.
> 
> ...


thanks hokie, keep us posted when you get yours up and running.


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Camper said:


> *finally its all in one piece and ready for making saw dust*
> 
> After all the dust settled with the screws, I was able to set the jointer knives and all seems to be working great. Ironically the first pieces I jointed are for a mobile base for the jointer which I will describe in a different blog.
> 
> ...


mine is just an abused 10 yr old grizzly. I'm blogging away on my progress, but I took a couple weekends off. Hopefully I'll get back to it soon, but the bearing replacement stuff has me a bit nervous about proceeding.


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## jm64 (Jan 21, 2011)

Camper said:


> *finally its all in one piece and ready for making saw dust*
> 
> After all the dust settled with the screws, I was able to set the jointer knives and all seems to be working great. Ironically the first pieces I jointed are for a mobile base for the jointer which I will describe in a different blog.
> 
> ...


Camper,
Thanks for the posts on getting this Jet back up and running. I looked at a similar one listed on CL last Sunday and your posts help me get some insight. The manual with the jointer had a 1982 copyright on it. In the end I passed - it needed a bit of work and the guy wanted $225 for it. At $90, I'd probably gone for it.


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## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

Camper said:


> *finally its all in one piece and ready for making saw dust*
> 
> After all the dust settled with the screws, I was able to set the jointer knives and all seems to be working great. Ironically the first pieces I jointed are for a mobile base for the jointer which I will describe in a different blog.
> 
> ...


I agree $225 is a little steep for it. I regularly see jointers of this kind come up for around $100-$150 around Tampa, FL. I am sure a nice one will come your way. Hopefully sooner rather than later. Good Luck!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Camper said:


> *finally its all in one piece and ready for making saw dust*
> 
> After all the dust settled with the screws, I was able to set the jointer knives and all seems to be working great. Ironically the first pieces I jointed are for a mobile base for the jointer which I will describe in a different blog.
> 
> ...


Thats a nice jointer, is it USA Made?


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## Camper (Jul 31, 2010)

Camper said:


> *finally its all in one piece and ready for making saw dust*
> 
> After all the dust settled with the screws, I was able to set the jointer knives and all seems to be working great. Ironically the first pieces I jointed are for a mobile base for the jointer which I will describe in a different blog.
> 
> ...


Actually no, it says its made in Taiwan.


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## MashMaster (Feb 12, 2011)

Camper said:


> *finally its all in one piece and ready for making saw dust*
> 
> After all the dust settled with the screws, I was able to set the jointer knives and all seems to be working great. Ironically the first pieces I jointed are for a mobile base for the jointer which I will describe in a different blog.
> 
> ...


nice job, I just picked up a slightly newer jj-6 (1984) version. Green paint apparently was first, then blue/grey. mine is blue. I hope I don't have the bolt issues you had with the bolts for your blades.


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## 480AZWoodman (12 mo ago)

Camper said:


> *finally its all in one piece and ready for making saw dust*
> 
> After all the dust settled with the screws, I was able to set the jointer knives and all seems to be working great. Ironically the first pieces I jointed are for a mobile base for the jointer which I will describe in a different blog.
> 
> ...












Looking for manual - Jet JJ-6 Serial 5113

Any help greatly appreciated

DB


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