# 3D printing for $150 - Grizzly G0923



## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Bumped for new tips added in review

Read the review here










Easy 3D printing on the cheap!


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Bump - two folx say they're ready to get one. It's a cool toy!


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Final bump. This is really cool machine!









Little 1-1/4" x 2-1/4" x 1-1/8" box. Screw post recess is 1/2 way down.


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## Tony1212 (Aug 26, 2013)

I don't know… That x-axis waving around in midair like that gives me pause.

I bought a Creality Ender 3 V2 earlier this year for about $50 more than this and it has two supports to keep the x-axis parallel to the print bed. Also, as it is one of the most popular FDM printers, there is a LOT of content online to help a newbie get great prints.

Not trying to sell anyone on the Enver3 V2, just giving a couple of my reasons why I chose it over many similar priced alternatives.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

The X axis is very rigid over 6" of thavel

I did notice that there seems to be a specification error. The build area is listed as *4-3/8"* square and is actually *155mm/6"!* The build area is larger than specification! I measured the physical travel and the software allows positioning (and it prints) in a *6×6x6* volume. The Z axis may also have some extra range that I haven't checked yet.

*Another tip:* The print head shroud is large and at the beginning of a print its very hard to see what the print head is doing. A UV flashlight makes the filament & glue glow different colors making it easier to see if the build started properly.

Proper adhesion is key. Too little, the build won't start, Too much and you get a gooey mess. It also seems to help to let's the glue dry before building on it. A thin, dry film works best.

I've only really had problems with false starts where the adhesion wasn't right and you wind up with a tangled ball of filament instead of anything useful. Fortunately the extruder doesn't dump a huge amount of filament in the process. Keep an eye out as it builds the first 1mm or so (four or five slices) and if it doesn't catch, about the print & try again.

I've burned thru about 1/3 of a roll of filament in four days of building.




























Everything red was extruded in the above pictures.


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## northwoodsman (Feb 22, 2008)

3D printers come in handy for a lot of things. They take a lot of tweaking to get them dialed in. I also have a Creality Ender 3 V2. It took me about 6 months to get the hang of it. With each brand, and even color, of filament it seems like you are starting over at first. Keep your bed clean and level, no drafts in the room, your filament dry, and record your settings. In woodworking I thought getting to 1/64 of an inch in accuracy was outstanding. With 3D printing your shooting for 1/100 of a millimeter. When I started I was printing around 25-30 mm/sec to get a good print, now that I understand it and have upgraded my board, cooling fans and ducts, added an auto bed leveler, a camera, a Raspberry Pi with OctoPrint, have a filament heater/dryer, etc. I can print at 100 mm/sec all day long without any problems and my prints are as smooth as a baby's butt. By the way, if you have a Microcenter near you they have the Ender 3 Pro on sale all the time for $99.00, that's $200 off. You have to sign up to be on their email list to get the coupon code. You can't reserve it on line, and they won't ship it. The current offer expires today. The next offer will probably be released tomorrow and will last for two weeks. Creality probably sells more hobby-level 3D printers than all other makers combined.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

This one set up and ran out of the box. No tweaking. I'm using the defaults with a 90% infill and the stuff is coming out solid.

You realize verything you see was designed and successfully printed since delivery on sat the 18th & late on the 20th?

There was no tweaking. That's kinda the point. It was printing 15 minutes after I opened the box. My first bracket design was done in an hour and I've got over two dozen printed designs and dozens of copies of some parts. They're all dead on with no d!cking around other than getting the part started. Bed levelling is automatic.

This is literally sold as "child's play" for middle school STEM students!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

90% infill! I usually print at 10-15% infill. The most I've ever done is maybe 20%. The things I've printed could probably be run over by s truck without crushing them. I've even tried crushing them in a bench vise and they hold up really well. You'll save filament and a lot of print time if you lower your infill level.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

At 15% infill the support cols snapped off the base when I tried to remove it from the build table They were 1/4" dia, 1" tall attached to a 3/8"w x 1/8"thk base. I'm making small, strong things for mounting little sensors and the like.

This is 3/4" dia, 1" tall:


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I was fixing to place the order and the sale price disappeared.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Bizarre. A few minutes later, the price went back to the sale price. The filament is 1/2 price, so I bought 4 spools.

It aggravates me that Griz charges me 8% sales tax when the correct tax is 5.5%. I've tried in the past to fight that with them with no progress. Meanwhile Alibris.com (a bookseller) fixed it after I complained so I order books from them when possible. Homedepot.com always had the correct rate, but Amazon always has it wrong.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Grizzly filament is no bargain. It's at Walmart for $15/kilo all day.

The red is slightly translucent and the fab makes it sparkle like 50's diner red seats. The cam shows it oranger than in life.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Well, I paid $15 for it, so no problem. I got an extra nozzle too. Don't know if I'll need it or if I'll need one for each color.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Now the questions are:
How study are these printed objects?
Are they dimensionally stable, or do they shrink over time.

Anyway I've been meaning to buy one of those to play with, so now I have.

I used to work (as a programmer) for a CAD company, and wish I could use 20-year-old software that I well knew. Oh well. I had no problems with Sketchup, but I think it has deteriorated in the latest free version and they work it so you can't use the old one. I suppose I could write my own CAD but it would take me a year which I don't have to waste on such adventures. I friend of mine put together a pretty good CAD system in about 3 months working 100 hours a week, but he's not an average programmer. The company didn't want him to do that, and sent him home He was supposed to be doing something else. (He was working in Paris.)


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

The change filament does a good job. PULL as it feeds back. Cut the last 1' or so off to get rid of rough texture. It came with a small spool of yeccch green for test. No prob changing to red w/o cross contamination.

If it won't start printing do change filament and try again.

Manually raise Z to 100 mm or so before changing filament. This will let you scrape crud (glue/fil) off the sides. Tip is *HOT!* DAMHIKT

Actual print area is 6+ X, 5+ Y & 7+ Z.

Spread glue thin, even & let dry before use. Doesn't need to reapply unless film is gone and build is glassy.

Scrape excess glue threads between runs. Tray pulls forward easily when not printing. Is messy. Glue strands stick. Put paper down under machine.

Use PREHEAT between runs.

USB operation is odd. plugging in USB resets printer. Turn computer first and then printer on & allow to boot. Connect USB & printer will restart & everything should sync. Printing via USB has no run time counter so it looks like nothing is happening. You have to select "Print using USB" and then click the button. Printer bottom line will say "E1 Heating" until head warms and motion begins.

Have fun. Look into TinkerCAD while you wait for delivery - NEVER LOG OUT - it thinks you're done FOREVER and kills your account - losing all your objects! You have to select DUPLICATE to start a new drawing based on an existing part. Renaming in the GUI does NOT fork the file!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

At those small sizes, it is probably more like 100% anyway. I've had really good luck using blue masking tape on the bed. It gives it really good adhesion and it's easier to get off the build plate as well. I buy the widest stuff I can find.

I've got a Sainsmart Ender 3 and it required minimal assembly. I haven't had any calibration issues. As long as I get the build plate level, it performs flawlessly.


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## HerringImpaired (Mar 13, 2019)

Got mine on Tuesday (12-21-21) and finally got around to playing with it today. I successfully printed a few of the test files and so far I am impressed, especially considering it was only $150.00!

I could not find a way to print from the provided slicer software, apparently you have to save to the SD card and print from there. Not a problem, just seems odd since you can connect it to the PC like a 1D Printer.

When I ordered it Sunday night, the total came to a certain amount, but the next morning the total had gone up by about $25!
A Note to Grizzly threatening to cancel the order got it resolved pronto!

Been browsing thingiverse and TinkerCAD for ideas. Should be fun!


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

If you hook up the USB BEFORE you load the slicer software the SAVE button will have an additional drop down. Select "Print via USB" and then click the button - NOTHING will happen EXCEPT the bottom line of the LCD will say "E1 Heating". When the temp hits 210, motion will start.










Closing the Slicer will kill the job but it'll run fine minimized.

It's normal for the printer to initialize when the slicer starts.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

My review (different version) is the FIRST up on the Grizzly site for the G0923

This thing is new, literally *hot*, and on sale 25% off!

They should give me a finders fee, LOL (I wish! My annual bill there looks like a phone number!)


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## northwoodsman (Feb 22, 2008)

Madmark, Did you sign up for a TinkerCAD account? I use it almost daily and it autosaves as you go if you are signed in. It saves your file with a unique name but all you do is type over it to rename it. When I open up TinkerCAD I have over 100 files saved and organized into separate folders. If I want to tweak one I just open it up and make the changes or I can clone it if I want to save the original and not change it. Fusion 360 is another good program to use and it's free. In the free version you can only have 10 active files at one time but when you deactivate a file it's still there. When you want to use that file again just deactivate one and activate another one. What slicer are you using?


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I have been learning using OnShape lately. Similar to F360 in how you design but seems a little simpler to me. It is web based so no PC software to install and works well. To use on tablet such as iPad, you have to install their app. I have used the app to modify but without a stylus it would be a little tough to do a complete design there. Files are stored in the cloud so are accessible from any computer. Note that for the free account you have to agree that your designs be public. Not a big deal for me but if you don't want to share your designs, you will have to have a paid subscription.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

I created an account on TinkerCAD, drew several items, made 'em public, logged out and when I tried to log back in it created a NEW account with the *same* name - but no objects left. I searched and found the public items and it let me copy them back.

I've got over two dozen objects now, all public. Two collections as well. Search for DuPont and Arduino in Collections or for me personally.

I'm using the Grizzly slicer that comes with the tool. Seems to work well. It allows multiple objects to combine into a single build, move, rotate, mirror, etc. It's a well mannered program. My only complaint is no active timer during USB printing but that's minor. It shows the expected time, just not a counting timer.

I'm Master rated in AutoCAD and have been using it since V2.15 when you had to buy the 8087 math co-proc chip & add it to your mobo just to get it to run - on a green screen Corona (Google it) "portable" the size and weight of a "portable" sewing machine! LOL

Learning the basics of TinkerCAD didn't take long at all, especially given the simplicity of basic brackets and stands. I've even figured out how to add my initials into the objects. It's pretty fun to use. My biggest complaints are; resizing a circle moves the center, and no location readout or snap to precisely align little things, Rotation into 3d isn't as intuitive as it could be. But for a free web program, designed to be used by STEM students, it's great!


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## northwoodsman (Feb 22, 2008)

MM, if you haven't already done so download and print the Keyboard Shortcuts for TinkerCAD. I printed it and laminated it, it comes in handy unless you have a super good memory. I find if I set the settings to 0.1 mm that the shapes snap pretty well to that. I then drop the layout ruler on the plane and align it to a the corner of a 10mm grid square. I move my object over to that reference and place an XY corner on that safe reference point. From there if you move anything it tells you exactly how far you have moved it from that point or how far another object is from that point. I do a lot of aligning, grouping, aligning, grouping, aligning, grouping, aligning, UN-grouping.


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## mawilsonWCR (Feb 18, 2021)

> I used to work (as a programmer) for a CAD company, and wish I could use 20-year-old software that I well knew. Oh well. I had no problems with Sketchup, but I think it has deteriorated in the latest free version and they work it so you can t use the old one. - Ocelot


I use Sketchup Make (the last version that loaded local) for lots of things (e.g. shop planning), but not for 3D printing. I use Fusion 360 for that. It's serious CAD with a serious learning curve unless you are already used to parametric modeling. And, as long as you can live with 10 active models (you can move models in and out of the archive with a bit of effort) and 1 sheet (at a time) drawings, you can use the hobbyist (free) license. The other interesting thing is that I can run it on my Surface Laptop (Core i5, integrated graphics) though it doe run better on my desktop (Core i7, nVidia RTX).

I have a well modded Ender 3. My usual workflow: design in Fusion, export STL, slice in Cura, and sneakernet via microSD to the printer.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Sketchup is a PITA for 3D printing. Some of the things that are already a little annoying for woodworking become really painful for printing. Nearly everything I have designed for printing in SU requires significant work to close the mesh so that you the STL doesn't confuse the slicer. Anything with a curve is almost guaranteed to have problems.


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

Sketchup doesn't like small dimensions since it seems designed for architectural scale projects. But I scale projects x100 or even x1000 before merging or subtracting solids and scale back when done. That eliminates most manual cleanup even if I'm designing tiny items like luer-lock syringe tips.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I've tried the scaling trick and with "complex" shapes, I sometimes still have some clean up to do. The Solids Inspector extension helps to ID issues but I think you either have to use the 2017 version of SU or a paid subscription to use it. They may have finally included that feature in the paid version. Plus, I cannot believe that they have not fixed that issue of having to scale up and back down to make small curves. I hate having to do that because I inevitably forget to scale something and it disappears because it is 100th or 1000th the size it needs to be. OnShape is quickly becoming my go-to CAD package for 3D printing.


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

Solid Inspector is practically a necessity for Sketchup whether 3D printing or not. Solid merging tools won't work without water-tight models and those merging tools really boost modeling speed. I'm using 2017 Pro and haven't tested new versions of Make to see if the plugin works with them.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Uhh. I'll tell you one thing about the printer. Its MESSY. The glue gets scraped off as the print starts and the little sticky bits get all over the floor and grab dirt. Blecch! Plus I've got bits and twists of filament mixed in.

I don't know the solution. Do NOT use in a carpeted area. Putting down a pad or papers might help, but only as a temporary fix. I'll let you know if I figure out a better solution than scraping the crap off the floor. Sweeping doesn't help as the bits are stuck. Mopping doesn't help as the glue doesn't appear to be water soluble.

It is a great toy as well as a good tool. SWMBO likes Rick & Morty and I've printed her a couple of figurines. There are a LOT of preexisting STL files out there that print just fine.


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## northwoodsman (Feb 22, 2008)

Edit: I just looked this printer up their website. I assumed it had either a heated metal or a heated glass build plate. I deleted my comments and tips.


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## HerringImpaired (Mar 13, 2019)

Madmark2, I did finally see the print direct to printer. In my haste to get rolling, I fired up the software while the PeeCee was installing the driver for the printer. Thats why it did not show up initially as an option.

I tried it, and forgot about the PeeCee going to sleep, and ruined that print…. Oil Well!

I figure it's easier to save to SD cards and print from the printer since it's so darn easy.

For the money, it's been a lot of fun, and I've spent hours looking at STL files to print…. 
Plus it gave me a reason to fire up the old PeeCee after a few years of silence. I prefer my Mac's…. 
I've even caught my wife checking it out while it's working…

I hope that at some point I can upgrade the print bed to something that is FLAT. The plastic one provided is not ideal, but it does work.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*NWM:*
I'm using the glue stick that came with the kit. It's the standard yellow tube kind for common use.

Bed temp? Don't think It has a bed heater. The bed doesn't get warm. I know nothing about all those parameters, everything is preset and works fine.

The first 0.3 pass doesn't print & is slower. This is where the little bits of glue get scraped up. 2nd pass at 0.5 starts to print. 3rd pass at 0.7 has full coverage and by 1.1 the build is solid and should run to finish.

I have the base option set where the first few passes are wide, leaving maybe 0.020" extra at the bottom. This, the scraps extruded when changing filaments, and "mold flash" (fine bits of filament that are created when changing levels) make lots of little bits everywhere.

Brim? Edge curling? Squish? There's no Z-axis preset. It starts at 0.3 and goes up from there. No part cooling fan. There is just the one on the print head.

This is a simple "plug & chug" machine that just works. If it's not building at 0.7 I abort, do a filament change and restart and everything works fine.

There are software adjustments that I haven't found a need for - yet.

It's a lot of fun aside from the mess.


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

Heated beds increase adhesion and reduce warping and basically makes it easier to do large shapes, use more types of filaments (ABS or nylon) or print without glue. I've never used glue on the bed for any print done on our Prusa MK3S.

Getting the heated bed costs money though. A Prusa Mini (similar specs to the Grizzly) runs $400 for the pre-assembled unit.

Printer presets work well for simple items. As shapes get more complicated, it helps to understand the settings so they can be tweaked. Tall items with a narrow footprint might need a brim around the base to secure it to the table.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Couple of usage notes after making a couple hundred pieces.

It's *MESSY!* The glue gets scraped off the build plate in short strands that, upon contact with the floor, adhere! Do *NOT* use this on a carpeted area!

The glue scrapes up but can't be swept or mopped.

In addition to the glue there are little bits of filament from changing the filament, scraping from aborted (false starts) runs, etc.

I found the Preheat function, keeps the nozzle temp 10°C under operating temp for quick starts.

Start your day with a Change Filament for best results. Remember to raise the print head up a couple of inches (Move Z-axis 10mm steps) BEFORE you do the Change Filament so you can clear the nozzle of the mess extruded during the change.

If you get a false start do a Change Filament. Press the feed release and help pull the old filament out. The filament just about to be fed squishes and sticks to the side of the feeder tube. You need to put a goodly amount of tension on the old filament coming out. You'll see the bulb at the end coming out of the tube. Snip the bulb of premelt and an inch or two of filament off before referring. Feed all the way to the nozzle for best results.

Use the SD card for long runs. If you print via USB and the computer burps for any reason your print will abort. If you start a 2nd session of the Grizzly slicer to slice something else the printer will reset. If you're printing from the SD card the machine will continue to chug.


> If you're printing from the SD card with the USB connected and you turn on the computer, or start the Grizzly slicer software, the printer will *HARD RESET!*


The computer's USB connection has enough current to power up the computer portion of the printer. Nothing will get hot or move and the display will be dimmed but the onboard controller is trying to run. It's not pretty and although it probably doesn't hurt the machine, I don't like doing that to equipment. I solved the issue (for me) by putting a switch in the red wire of the USB so I can cut power to the printer when I don't want to unplug and still want to use the computer.

When designing parts try to avoid sharp 90°s, if a part is going to fail, its at a sharp bend. Fillet corners and the base of pillars for strength. Screw holes need to be oversize because of squish. Add 0.010"-0.015" to pilot hole diameter if you're going to tap.

1/8" at 90% fill is pretty strong for making mounts and utility objects, decorative stuff can be thinner and down to 15% fill but will be fra-geel-lay (stencil on the leg lamp crate). Don't over torque when mounting as pieces will fracture on a layer line and split like wood. Heat from a soldering iron can fix cracks.

The cat loves it!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

You might want to try using blue masking tape instead of the glue. It peels off easily, leaves no residue to clean off and the only time I've had something not adhere is when I didn't have the height set right. The only down side is that the bottom layer will pick up the texture from the tape but that is not usually a problem for the sort of things I make; plus, it is actually smoother than my build plate. Most things I print are utility items for use around the shop. I can usually get at least 2 or 3 uses out of it before I have to peel it off and apply a new layer but you can extend that for small parts by not printing in the same spot every time. I use the widest one that I can find which is almost 3". I like the 3M regular blue tape because it has the smoothest surface but HD and Lowes near me no longer stock it for some reason so I just bought a no-name brand from Amazon to try.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Bumped for new tips added in review


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## darthford (Feb 17, 2013)

Dry your filament. Most of the filaments absorb moisture from the air and when it hits the hot end it burst into a gas ruining the print surface quality. I use this one, it works great. https://shop.eibos3d.com/products/filament-dryer

After drying I use a food storage vacuum bag gadget to seal the spools under vacuum. Tip, cut a couple 3×3 squares from cardboard to place over the filament spool center holes so the bag doesn't get suck into the hole.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

BTW, I have a thread on 3D printing where I have been compiling a list of various resources I have found or others have mentioned that anyone learning how to 3D print may find useful. If you have any resources that might be helpful for others, please post them there and I will add them to the OP of that thread.

3D Printing for the Woodworking Shop


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I've finally fired up my Grizzly printer a week or so ago. I put it in an unused office at work, so the kids don't mess with it at home. I have only printed pre-cooked files and some that I started with STL and sliced. There is a game that requires 32 dwarves. I made a sliced file that has 8 dwarves and figured I'd run it 4 times. I did fine the first time so I made another with 24 pieces - which run about 9 hours and also was successful. The next run failed because the filament tangled on the spool. I had two more 13-hour runs which also tangled on the spool and failed, so I'm downsizing my expectations and paying close care to the spool.

I'm about ready to put it away until I have my own models to print - having found out enough about it's operation for now. I'm printing PLA at 210C. I've just bought some PLA+ which is supposed to print at 225C, and a spool of PETG which needs at least 240C (better at 255C). I've heard that the PTFE feed tube will degrade at higher temps and I'm not sure I can get a spare, so I'll do a little reading before trying PETG, at least.

Have any of you tried these other filaments?

-Paul


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Paul, I do not have the Grizzly printer but my printer has the same sort of feed tube. PETG has worked just fine. I will bet that you will find that you can find the same sort of feed tube should you ever have to replace it. Heck, chances are you can find this exact same printer with a different brand on it somewhere.

BTW, I bought a roll of the Amazon Basics PLA because it was cheap but it was a tangled mess so I had to check in on it every hour or so. Because it was wound so chaotically, it was really easy to let the end get underneath another section on the spool so whenever I remounted it, I would pull several feet out and rewind it to make sure that didn't happen. I still checked on it periodically but never again had another print ruined because of tangling. Thankfully, I finished off that roll about 2 weeks ago. Now, I only buy filament that shows it neatly put on the spool or ones where they at least claim it is tangle free.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Thanks for your reply on the PETG and tangle questions, Lazyman.

I thought the tangle was caused by a crossover and I think I"m clear now. But when I'm at work, a 3-hour run in the morning and afternoon and an attempt at a long run at night is what I'm doing today. The boss is tolerant but I try to stay away from the thing during work hours.

My spool of white PLA+ came over the weekend and I might try to save a file with the 240C settings to test that. It seems that the temp is in the file, from what I can tell, though I haven't looked into it.

This unit does not have a heated bed. I've been using glue stick, but might try painters tape soon.

-Paul


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## northwoodsman (Feb 22, 2008)

Instead of a standard glue stick I use a product called Magigoo, it's more expensive but I can print 10 - 15 prints without having to reapply. Once the bed cools the prints pops right off. I generally print PLA+ at 195°C to 205°C. I have had the most success with Inland brand filament from Microcenter. It's finally readily back in stock in North Dallas. Overall the price of filament has gone up $4 - $6 per roll in the past 18 months. I used to pay $18.99 for PLA+ now it's generally $22.99 - $24.99 for Inland brand at Microcenter. The key to good prints is keeping your filament dry. I have some reusable vacuum seal bags designed for these large spools. They don't last forever but I can get about a year out of them if I don't pull the seal to tight and puncture them. I use the silica packets in them. I also have a countertop convection oven that can go as low as 100°F and remain constant so I'll dry my filament in that for 4 - 6 hours if I need to. I usually set it at about 145°F. Use authentic Capricorn® feed tubing and you'll get superior results. The walls are thicker, the hole in the center is more precise, it can withstand higher temps. Make sure the ends are cut perfectly square (get the kit with the cutter) so you don't get hot end leakage.

The only time I go near my printer is to change filament or to remove the project. I load the files and run it through Octoprint. I have an auto bed leveler. I have two cameras connected and an LED light bar to illuminate the print area (red means it's warming up, white means it's printing, green tells me it's done). Everything runs through a Raspberry pi connected to my laptop over wifi. I have a couple of those wifi controlled outlets that are connected as well and they shut everything down 5 minutes after the print is completed.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I've not had a problem with moisture on my PLA. I just leave the spool on the machine most of the time and so far have not had a problem. The roll that I just used up was over 2 years old and spent at least 75% of that time on the machine.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

My grizzly unit's power supply failed this morning. It's 24v 3A, so I probably have something I can patch in.

-Paul


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Check the switch. On mine the inline power switch failed but not the ps itself. The switch is extreamly cheap.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

The blue LED on the power brick is not lit.

Unless the switch is shorted, it would not cause that failure mode.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Yeah, that's dead.


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