# Building a Traditional Wooden Boat



## mattd

*Introduction*

I've recently begun to move on with building a traditional wooden yacht tender. Boatbuilding has always been fascinating to me as a type of woodworking and I'd like a new boat for next year. This is mostly a learn as I go project. I'd like to connect with others that are interested with boatbuilding (and could maybe offer me some guidance too)

*Selecting a boat*

Before choosing a plan, my basic requirements were that it would be built traditional wooden lapstrake construction, a good rower, option to upgrade with a sail, stable for kids, able to mount a small outboard motor, light enough to transport on a car top (maybe), and small enough so I could build it in my shop instead of the cold garage.

There are hundreds, if not thousands, of small boat plans available in books and online. Eventually, I decided on the Sunshine Yacht Tender from Duck Trap Woodworking. This seemed to fit all of my requirements and I could order a decent set of plans along with a book on how to build it. There's a nice history to this boat going back to the early 1900s in Maine. Home builders and professionals still build and sell this model.










*Project Summary:*

Expenses so far: $60 for (a very nice) set of plans and plan book
Several books borrowed from library


----------



## patron

mattd said:


> *Introduction*
> 
> I've recently begun to move on with building a traditional wooden yacht tender. Boatbuilding has always been fascinating to me as a type of woodworking and I'd like a new boat for next year. This is mostly a learn as I go project. I'd like to connect with others that are interested with boatbuilding (and could maybe offer me some guidance too)
> 
> *Selecting a boat*
> 
> Before choosing a plan, my basic requirements were that it would be built traditional wooden lapstrake construction, a good rower, option to upgrade with a sail, stable for kids, able to mount a small outboard motor, light enough to transport on a car top (maybe), and small enough so I could build it in my shop instead of the cold garage.
> 
> There are hundreds, if not thousands, of small boat plans available in books and online. Eventually, I decided on the Sunshine Yacht Tender from Duck Trap Woodworking. This seemed to fit all of my requirements and I could order a decent set of plans along with a book on how to build it. There's a nice history to this boat going back to the early 1900s in Maine. Home builders and professionals still build and sell this model.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Project Summary:*
> 
> Expenses so far: $60 for (a very nice) set of plans and plan book
> Several books borrowed from library


i built boats for 10 years in ft. lauderdale , to learn the craft .
it will definitly improve your wood working skills .
as a project , it is a real pleasure . just take your time and you will understand and accomplish allot .
dont try and rush it , as mistakes can be hard to fix .
looks like a nice choice !
enjoy .


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## cylis007

mattd said:


> *Introduction*
> 
> I've recently begun to move on with building a traditional wooden yacht tender. Boatbuilding has always been fascinating to me as a type of woodworking and I'd like a new boat for next year. This is mostly a learn as I go project. I'd like to connect with others that are interested with boatbuilding (and could maybe offer me some guidance too)
> 
> *Selecting a boat*
> 
> Before choosing a plan, my basic requirements were that it would be built traditional wooden lapstrake construction, a good rower, option to upgrade with a sail, stable for kids, able to mount a small outboard motor, light enough to transport on a car top (maybe), and small enough so I could build it in my shop instead of the cold garage.
> 
> There are hundreds, if not thousands, of small boat plans available in books and online. Eventually, I decided on the Sunshine Yacht Tender from Duck Trap Woodworking. This seemed to fit all of my requirements and I could order a decent set of plans along with a book on how to build it. There's a nice history to this boat going back to the early 1900s in Maine. Home builders and professionals still build and sell this model.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Project Summary:*
> 
> Expenses so far: $60 for (a very nice) set of plans and plan book
> Several books borrowed from library


I am really looking forward to following your progress. Best of luck!


----------



## Karson

mattd said:


> *Introduction*
> 
> I've recently begun to move on with building a traditional wooden yacht tender. Boatbuilding has always been fascinating to me as a type of woodworking and I'd like a new boat for next year. This is mostly a learn as I go project. I'd like to connect with others that are interested with boatbuilding (and could maybe offer me some guidance too)
> 
> *Selecting a boat*
> 
> Before choosing a plan, my basic requirements were that it would be built traditional wooden lapstrake construction, a good rower, option to upgrade with a sail, stable for kids, able to mount a small outboard motor, light enough to transport on a car top (maybe), and small enough so I could build it in my shop instead of the cold garage.
> 
> There are hundreds, if not thousands, of small boat plans available in books and online. Eventually, I decided on the Sunshine Yacht Tender from Duck Trap Woodworking. This seemed to fit all of my requirements and I could order a decent set of plans along with a book on how to build it. There's a nice history to this boat going back to the early 1900s in Maine. Home builders and professionals still build and sell this model.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Project Summary:*
> 
> Expenses so far: $60 for (a very nice) set of plans and plan book
> Several books borrowed from library


Good luck. At the St. Michaels Maritime Museum in Maryland. the have a weekend group that makes a wooden boat. You pay for the privileged. You might check around and see if anyone has a class similar.

Here is my blog on the program


----------



## a1Jim

mattd said:


> *Introduction*
> 
> I've recently begun to move on with building a traditional wooden yacht tender. Boatbuilding has always been fascinating to me as a type of woodworking and I'd like a new boat for next year. This is mostly a learn as I go project. I'd like to connect with others that are interested with boatbuilding (and could maybe offer me some guidance too)
> 
> *Selecting a boat*
> 
> Before choosing a plan, my basic requirements were that it would be built traditional wooden lapstrake construction, a good rower, option to upgrade with a sail, stable for kids, able to mount a small outboard motor, light enough to transport on a car top (maybe), and small enough so I could build it in my shop instead of the cold garage.
> 
> There are hundreds, if not thousands, of small boat plans available in books and online. Eventually, I decided on the Sunshine Yacht Tender from Duck Trap Woodworking. This seemed to fit all of my requirements and I could order a decent set of plans along with a book on how to build it. There's a nice history to this boat going back to the early 1900s in Maine. Home builders and professionals still build and sell this model.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Project Summary:*
> 
> Expenses so far: $60 for (a very nice) set of plans and plan book
> Several books borrowed from library


Sound like fun bring it on.


----------



## Splinterman

mattd said:


> *Introduction*
> 
> I've recently begun to move on with building a traditional wooden yacht tender. Boatbuilding has always been fascinating to me as a type of woodworking and I'd like a new boat for next year. This is mostly a learn as I go project. I'd like to connect with others that are interested with boatbuilding (and could maybe offer me some guidance too)
> 
> *Selecting a boat*
> 
> Before choosing a plan, my basic requirements were that it would be built traditional wooden lapstrake construction, a good rower, option to upgrade with a sail, stable for kids, able to mount a small outboard motor, light enough to transport on a car top (maybe), and small enough so I could build it in my shop instead of the cold garage.
> 
> There are hundreds, if not thousands, of small boat plans available in books and online. Eventually, I decided on the Sunshine Yacht Tender from Duck Trap Woodworking. This seemed to fit all of my requirements and I could order a decent set of plans along with a book on how to build it. There's a nice history to this boat going back to the early 1900s in Maine. Home builders and professionals still build and sell this model.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Project Summary:*
> 
> Expenses so far: $60 for (a very nice) set of plans and plan book
> Several books borrowed from library


Now this is my territory…....keep me posted on this Matt….good choice of boat….looks like a small Wherry.


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## matt1970

mattd said:


> *Introduction*
> 
> I've recently begun to move on with building a traditional wooden yacht tender. Boatbuilding has always been fascinating to me as a type of woodworking and I'd like a new boat for next year. This is mostly a learn as I go project. I'd like to connect with others that are interested with boatbuilding (and could maybe offer me some guidance too)
> 
> *Selecting a boat*
> 
> Before choosing a plan, my basic requirements were that it would be built traditional wooden lapstrake construction, a good rower, option to upgrade with a sail, stable for kids, able to mount a small outboard motor, light enough to transport on a car top (maybe), and small enough so I could build it in my shop instead of the cold garage.
> 
> There are hundreds, if not thousands, of small boat plans available in books and online. Eventually, I decided on the Sunshine Yacht Tender from Duck Trap Woodworking. This seemed to fit all of my requirements and I could order a decent set of plans along with a book on how to build it. There's a nice history to this boat going back to the early 1900s in Maine. Home builders and professionals still build and sell this model.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Project Summary:*
> 
> Expenses so far: $60 for (a very nice) set of plans and plan book
> Several books borrowed from library


sooooo glad i ran across your blog series…SOME day…i want to build a little sail boat I can run up and down the napa river…and when i read your intro and what you called your basic requirements I can almost check all those off as what I am looking for…

SUPER GOOD LUCK…now to catch up with your newer blogs!!!


----------



## mattd

*Lofting*

After about 12 hours of work, nearly all lofting is complete and I can finally start some construction! The famous boat builder and author, Howard I. Chapelle wrote in his aptly named book "Boatbuilding" - "There was never a boat built in which too much lofting had been done". By lofting, Mr. Chapelle is referring to the laying out of the lines and drawing of construction details to full scale, a tedious practice he writes "avoids much trying and fitting".

*Setting up the lofting area*

To begin, I cut up a 4×8 sheet of 3/4 plywood to create a lofting "table" that is 12'x32". This is large enough to draw all 3 plan views (sheer, body and half-breadth) which are drawn over each other. After leveling the table, I rolled out *red rosin paper*, an option some builders use to draw the plans on instead of drawing right onto the plywood (or traditionally.. the floor of a loft). I then layed out the all important "base line" and tacked a straight edge on that line from which measurements would be made. A large grid is then drawn over the entire area to indicate vertical *stations *and horizontal *waterlines*.










*Drawing the Profile and Half-Breath view*

There are virtually no straight lines on this boat. I was immediately faced with the problem of how to correctly draw long curved lines. An ideal curved line is a *fair curve* - one which has a smooth continuous flow to it. It turns out to be relatively simple to do, but does require a good eye. The process essentially involves the use of long wooden *battens* of straight grain and clear of knots. To create the curve, you "loosely" bend the batten around nails which are tacked onto the "grid" according to measurements in the plans. It's basically "connect the dots". The boat plans includes a *table of offsets* which have measurements for where you place your marks. Once the curve looks fair, you draw the curved line against the batten with a pencil, remove the batten and do the same thing for the next line until you have something that looks like a boat. The following photos show the line for the *profile sheer* (top edge viewed from side) and a *waterline* (water level at 6 inches viewed from top). Notice how two different views of the boat are drawn in the same space.










*Drawing the Body Plan*

The *body plan* is the head on view of the boat and is drawn right over the other 2 plan views that were previously drawn. The measurements are taken from the lofted lines in the previous 2 plan views and the batten is used again to "connect the dots" and draw curved lines for the body plan sections. The body plan shows 7 cross sections of the hull from front to back (stern to transom) with the 5 equally spaced *stations* in between. The layout of each station are the templates for the actual station molds which will be used later to form the hull. The photos below show the shapes of the hull from head on. The reason for the white paper overlay is to show the construction detail of how the hull planking will join to the keelson and keel on the bottom of the boat. Because there are 7 body sections all overlapping in the same space on the plans, separate pieces of paper are tacked in place as needed for each section so that the details are not a hopeless mess of overlapping lines.










*Final Results Example*

The following is an example of a different boat showing the 3 plan views. In the actual lofting, these views are drawn right over each other.










*Lessons Learned*
I'm not crazy about the red rosin paper. It has small wrinkles in it that slightly distort the lines. It's not enough to throw off any measurements by anything more than 1/64th probably, but it's not ideal. Next time, I'd whitewash the plywood and draw onto that directly.

*Lofting Materials List:*


Red Rosin Paper, Home Depot, $12
3/4 Plywood 4×8, Lowes, $23.88
1×4x12 clear pine, Home Depot, $12

*Project Materials Summary:*


Plans and Book: $60
Lofting Supplies: $47.88

- Total Project Expenses so far: $107.88

*Labor Hours Summary:*


5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 12 Hours


----------



## patron

mattd said:


> *Lofting*
> 
> After about 12 hours of work, nearly all lofting is complete and I can finally start some construction! The famous boat builder and author, Howard I. Chapelle wrote in his aptly named book "Boatbuilding" - "There was never a boat built in which too much lofting had been done". By lofting, Mr. Chapelle is referring to the laying out of the lines and drawing of construction details to full scale, a tedious practice he writes "avoids much trying and fitting".
> 
> *Setting up the lofting area*
> 
> To begin, I cut up a 4×8 sheet of 3/4 plywood to create a lofting "table" that is 12'x32". This is large enough to draw all 3 plan views (sheer, body and half-breadth) which are drawn over each other. After leveling the table, I rolled out *red rosin paper*, an option some builders use to draw the plans on instead of drawing right onto the plywood (or traditionally.. the floor of a loft). I then layed out the all important "base line" and tacked a straight edge on that line from which measurements would be made. A large grid is then drawn over the entire area to indicate vertical *stations *and horizontal *waterlines*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Profile and Half-Breath view*
> 
> There are virtually no straight lines on this boat. I was immediately faced with the problem of how to correctly draw long curved lines. An ideal curved line is a *fair curve* - one which has a smooth continuous flow to it. It turns out to be relatively simple to do, but does require a good eye. The process essentially involves the use of long wooden *battens* of straight grain and clear of knots. To create the curve, you "loosely" bend the batten around nails which are tacked onto the "grid" according to measurements in the plans. It's basically "connect the dots". The boat plans includes a *table of offsets* which have measurements for where you place your marks. Once the curve looks fair, you draw the curved line against the batten with a pencil, remove the batten and do the same thing for the next line until you have something that looks like a boat. The following photos show the line for the *profile sheer* (top edge viewed from side) and a *waterline* (water level at 6 inches viewed from top). Notice how two different views of the boat are drawn in the same space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Body Plan*
> 
> The *body plan* is the head on view of the boat and is drawn right over the other 2 plan views that were previously drawn. The measurements are taken from the lofted lines in the previous 2 plan views and the batten is used again to "connect the dots" and draw curved lines for the body plan sections. The body plan shows 7 cross sections of the hull from front to back (stern to transom) with the 5 equally spaced *stations* in between. The layout of each station are the templates for the actual station molds which will be used later to form the hull. The photos below show the shapes of the hull from head on. The reason for the white paper overlay is to show the construction detail of how the hull planking will join to the keelson and keel on the bottom of the boat. Because there are 7 body sections all overlapping in the same space on the plans, separate pieces of paper are tacked in place as needed for each section so that the details are not a hopeless mess of overlapping lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Final Results Example*
> 
> The following is an example of a different boat showing the 3 plan views. In the actual lofting, these views are drawn right over each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lessons Learned*
> I'm not crazy about the red rosin paper. It has small wrinkles in it that slightly distort the lines. It's not enough to throw off any measurements by anything more than 1/64th probably, but it's not ideal. Next time, I'd whitewash the plywood and draw onto that directly.
> 
> *Lofting Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Red Rosin Paper, Home Depot, $12
> 3/4 Plywood 4×8, Lowes, $23.88
> 1×4x12 clear pine, Home Depot, $12
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $107.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 12 Hours


i built boats for 10 years in fla. i t is a very learning experience , and rewarding !
draw every fastener also , as they can weaken or cross each other in placement .
it,s worth the time to get the lofting right , as it saves time and money (and hair ! ) .
good luck to you , and keep us posted .
i know many l.j.s. are going to be thrilled to see this come to life .!


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

mattd said:


> *Lofting*
> 
> After about 12 hours of work, nearly all lofting is complete and I can finally start some construction! The famous boat builder and author, Howard I. Chapelle wrote in his aptly named book "Boatbuilding" - "There was never a boat built in which too much lofting had been done". By lofting, Mr. Chapelle is referring to the laying out of the lines and drawing of construction details to full scale, a tedious practice he writes "avoids much trying and fitting".
> 
> *Setting up the lofting area*
> 
> To begin, I cut up a 4×8 sheet of 3/4 plywood to create a lofting "table" that is 12'x32". This is large enough to draw all 3 plan views (sheer, body and half-breadth) which are drawn over each other. After leveling the table, I rolled out *red rosin paper*, an option some builders use to draw the plans on instead of drawing right onto the plywood (or traditionally.. the floor of a loft). I then layed out the all important "base line" and tacked a straight edge on that line from which measurements would be made. A large grid is then drawn over the entire area to indicate vertical *stations *and horizontal *waterlines*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Profile and Half-Breath view*
> 
> There are virtually no straight lines on this boat. I was immediately faced with the problem of how to correctly draw long curved lines. An ideal curved line is a *fair curve* - one which has a smooth continuous flow to it. It turns out to be relatively simple to do, but does require a good eye. The process essentially involves the use of long wooden *battens* of straight grain and clear of knots. To create the curve, you "loosely" bend the batten around nails which are tacked onto the "grid" according to measurements in the plans. It's basically "connect the dots". The boat plans includes a *table of offsets* which have measurements for where you place your marks. Once the curve looks fair, you draw the curved line against the batten with a pencil, remove the batten and do the same thing for the next line until you have something that looks like a boat. The following photos show the line for the *profile sheer* (top edge viewed from side) and a *waterline* (water level at 6 inches viewed from top). Notice how two different views of the boat are drawn in the same space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Body Plan*
> 
> The *body plan* is the head on view of the boat and is drawn right over the other 2 plan views that were previously drawn. The measurements are taken from the lofted lines in the previous 2 plan views and the batten is used again to "connect the dots" and draw curved lines for the body plan sections. The body plan shows 7 cross sections of the hull from front to back (stern to transom) with the 5 equally spaced *stations* in between. The layout of each station are the templates for the actual station molds which will be used later to form the hull. The photos below show the shapes of the hull from head on. The reason for the white paper overlay is to show the construction detail of how the hull planking will join to the keelson and keel on the bottom of the boat. Because there are 7 body sections all overlapping in the same space on the plans, separate pieces of paper are tacked in place as needed for each section so that the details are not a hopeless mess of overlapping lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Final Results Example*
> 
> The following is an example of a different boat showing the 3 plan views. In the actual lofting, these views are drawn right over each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lessons Learned*
> I'm not crazy about the red rosin paper. It has small wrinkles in it that slightly distort the lines. It's not enough to throw off any measurements by anything more than 1/64th probably, but it's not ideal. Next time, I'd whitewash the plywood and draw onto that directly.
> 
> *Lofting Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Red Rosin Paper, Home Depot, $12
> 3/4 Plywood 4×8, Lowes, $23.88
> 1×4x12 clear pine, Home Depot, $12
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $107.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 12 Hours


Sheeh!! I thought all you had to do was throw down a keel, nail on the ribs and plank it) Looks like there is a bit more to it than I thought, eh?


----------



## stefang

mattd said:


> *Lofting*
> 
> After about 12 hours of work, nearly all lofting is complete and I can finally start some construction! The famous boat builder and author, Howard I. Chapelle wrote in his aptly named book "Boatbuilding" - "There was never a boat built in which too much lofting had been done". By lofting, Mr. Chapelle is referring to the laying out of the lines and drawing of construction details to full scale, a tedious practice he writes "avoids much trying and fitting".
> 
> *Setting up the lofting area*
> 
> To begin, I cut up a 4×8 sheet of 3/4 plywood to create a lofting "table" that is 12'x32". This is large enough to draw all 3 plan views (sheer, body and half-breadth) which are drawn over each other. After leveling the table, I rolled out *red rosin paper*, an option some builders use to draw the plans on instead of drawing right onto the plywood (or traditionally.. the floor of a loft). I then layed out the all important "base line" and tacked a straight edge on that line from which measurements would be made. A large grid is then drawn over the entire area to indicate vertical *stations *and horizontal *waterlines*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Profile and Half-Breath view*
> 
> There are virtually no straight lines on this boat. I was immediately faced with the problem of how to correctly draw long curved lines. An ideal curved line is a *fair curve* - one which has a smooth continuous flow to it. It turns out to be relatively simple to do, but does require a good eye. The process essentially involves the use of long wooden *battens* of straight grain and clear of knots. To create the curve, you "loosely" bend the batten around nails which are tacked onto the "grid" according to measurements in the plans. It's basically "connect the dots". The boat plans includes a *table of offsets* which have measurements for where you place your marks. Once the curve looks fair, you draw the curved line against the batten with a pencil, remove the batten and do the same thing for the next line until you have something that looks like a boat. The following photos show the line for the *profile sheer* (top edge viewed from side) and a *waterline* (water level at 6 inches viewed from top). Notice how two different views of the boat are drawn in the same space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Body Plan*
> 
> The *body plan* is the head on view of the boat and is drawn right over the other 2 plan views that were previously drawn. The measurements are taken from the lofted lines in the previous 2 plan views and the batten is used again to "connect the dots" and draw curved lines for the body plan sections. The body plan shows 7 cross sections of the hull from front to back (stern to transom) with the 5 equally spaced *stations* in between. The layout of each station are the templates for the actual station molds which will be used later to form the hull. The photos below show the shapes of the hull from head on. The reason for the white paper overlay is to show the construction detail of how the hull planking will join to the keelson and keel on the bottom of the boat. Because there are 7 body sections all overlapping in the same space on the plans, separate pieces of paper are tacked in place as needed for each section so that the details are not a hopeless mess of overlapping lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Final Results Example*
> 
> The following is an example of a different boat showing the 3 plan views. In the actual lofting, these views are drawn right over each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lessons Learned*
> I'm not crazy about the red rosin paper. It has small wrinkles in it that slightly distort the lines. It's not enough to throw off any measurements by anything more than 1/64th probably, but it's not ideal. Next time, I'd whitewash the plywood and draw onto that directly.
> 
> *Lofting Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Red Rosin Paper, Home Depot, $12
> 3/4 Plywood 4×8, Lowes, $23.88
> 1×4x12 clear pine, Home Depot, $12
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $107.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 12 Hours


This will be fun to follow. I'm never going to build a boat, but I buy Wooden Boat magazine and love the stories about builds and sailing adventures. I used to run a lot of wooden boats in the Navy including the Captain's gig. I really miss the fun. Unfortunately my wife isn't fond of the water, so I am now an armchair sailor. Looking forward to the build!


----------



## mattd

mattd said:


> *Lofting*
> 
> After about 12 hours of work, nearly all lofting is complete and I can finally start some construction! The famous boat builder and author, Howard I. Chapelle wrote in his aptly named book "Boatbuilding" - "There was never a boat built in which too much lofting had been done". By lofting, Mr. Chapelle is referring to the laying out of the lines and drawing of construction details to full scale, a tedious practice he writes "avoids much trying and fitting".
> 
> *Setting up the lofting area*
> 
> To begin, I cut up a 4×8 sheet of 3/4 plywood to create a lofting "table" that is 12'x32". This is large enough to draw all 3 plan views (sheer, body and half-breadth) which are drawn over each other. After leveling the table, I rolled out *red rosin paper*, an option some builders use to draw the plans on instead of drawing right onto the plywood (or traditionally.. the floor of a loft). I then layed out the all important "base line" and tacked a straight edge on that line from which measurements would be made. A large grid is then drawn over the entire area to indicate vertical *stations *and horizontal *waterlines*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Profile and Half-Breath view*
> 
> There are virtually no straight lines on this boat. I was immediately faced with the problem of how to correctly draw long curved lines. An ideal curved line is a *fair curve* - one which has a smooth continuous flow to it. It turns out to be relatively simple to do, but does require a good eye. The process essentially involves the use of long wooden *battens* of straight grain and clear of knots. To create the curve, you "loosely" bend the batten around nails which are tacked onto the "grid" according to measurements in the plans. It's basically "connect the dots". The boat plans includes a *table of offsets* which have measurements for where you place your marks. Once the curve looks fair, you draw the curved line against the batten with a pencil, remove the batten and do the same thing for the next line until you have something that looks like a boat. The following photos show the line for the *profile sheer* (top edge viewed from side) and a *waterline* (water level at 6 inches viewed from top). Notice how two different views of the boat are drawn in the same space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Body Plan*
> 
> The *body plan* is the head on view of the boat and is drawn right over the other 2 plan views that were previously drawn. The measurements are taken from the lofted lines in the previous 2 plan views and the batten is used again to "connect the dots" and draw curved lines for the body plan sections. The body plan shows 7 cross sections of the hull from front to back (stern to transom) with the 5 equally spaced *stations* in between. The layout of each station are the templates for the actual station molds which will be used later to form the hull. The photos below show the shapes of the hull from head on. The reason for the white paper overlay is to show the construction detail of how the hull planking will join to the keelson and keel on the bottom of the boat. Because there are 7 body sections all overlapping in the same space on the plans, separate pieces of paper are tacked in place as needed for each section so that the details are not a hopeless mess of overlapping lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Final Results Example*
> 
> The following is an example of a different boat showing the 3 plan views. In the actual lofting, these views are drawn right over each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lessons Learned*
> I'm not crazy about the red rosin paper. It has small wrinkles in it that slightly distort the lines. It's not enough to throw off any measurements by anything more than 1/64th probably, but it's not ideal. Next time, I'd whitewash the plywood and draw onto that directly.
> 
> *Lofting Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Red Rosin Paper, Home Depot, $12
> 3/4 Plywood 4×8, Lowes, $23.88
> 1×4x12 clear pine, Home Depot, $12
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $107.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 12 Hours


Thanks everyone for the tips and encouragement.


----------



## a1Jim

mattd said:


> *Lofting*
> 
> After about 12 hours of work, nearly all lofting is complete and I can finally start some construction! The famous boat builder and author, Howard I. Chapelle wrote in his aptly named book "Boatbuilding" - "There was never a boat built in which too much lofting had been done". By lofting, Mr. Chapelle is referring to the laying out of the lines and drawing of construction details to full scale, a tedious practice he writes "avoids much trying and fitting".
> 
> *Setting up the lofting area*
> 
> To begin, I cut up a 4×8 sheet of 3/4 plywood to create a lofting "table" that is 12'x32". This is large enough to draw all 3 plan views (sheer, body and half-breadth) which are drawn over each other. After leveling the table, I rolled out *red rosin paper*, an option some builders use to draw the plans on instead of drawing right onto the plywood (or traditionally.. the floor of a loft). I then layed out the all important "base line" and tacked a straight edge on that line from which measurements would be made. A large grid is then drawn over the entire area to indicate vertical *stations *and horizontal *waterlines*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Profile and Half-Breath view*
> 
> There are virtually no straight lines on this boat. I was immediately faced with the problem of how to correctly draw long curved lines. An ideal curved line is a *fair curve* - one which has a smooth continuous flow to it. It turns out to be relatively simple to do, but does require a good eye. The process essentially involves the use of long wooden *battens* of straight grain and clear of knots. To create the curve, you "loosely" bend the batten around nails which are tacked onto the "grid" according to measurements in the plans. It's basically "connect the dots". The boat plans includes a *table of offsets* which have measurements for where you place your marks. Once the curve looks fair, you draw the curved line against the batten with a pencil, remove the batten and do the same thing for the next line until you have something that looks like a boat. The following photos show the line for the *profile sheer* (top edge viewed from side) and a *waterline* (water level at 6 inches viewed from top). Notice how two different views of the boat are drawn in the same space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Body Plan*
> 
> The *body plan* is the head on view of the boat and is drawn right over the other 2 plan views that were previously drawn. The measurements are taken from the lofted lines in the previous 2 plan views and the batten is used again to "connect the dots" and draw curved lines for the body plan sections. The body plan shows 7 cross sections of the hull from front to back (stern to transom) with the 5 equally spaced *stations* in between. The layout of each station are the templates for the actual station molds which will be used later to form the hull. The photos below show the shapes of the hull from head on. The reason for the white paper overlay is to show the construction detail of how the hull planking will join to the keelson and keel on the bottom of the boat. Because there are 7 body sections all overlapping in the same space on the plans, separate pieces of paper are tacked in place as needed for each section so that the details are not a hopeless mess of overlapping lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Final Results Example*
> 
> The following is an example of a different boat showing the 3 plan views. In the actual lofting, these views are drawn right over each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lessons Learned*
> I'm not crazy about the red rosin paper. It has small wrinkles in it that slightly distort the lines. It's not enough to throw off any measurements by anything more than 1/64th probably, but it's not ideal. Next time, I'd whitewash the plywood and draw onto that directly.
> 
> *Lofting Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Red Rosin Paper, Home Depot, $12
> 3/4 Plywood 4×8, Lowes, $23.88
> 1×4x12 clear pine, Home Depot, $12
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $107.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 12 Hours


Very interesting a all new project for me. I'm anxious to see more. Thanks for sharing


----------



## cylis007

mattd said:


> *Lofting*
> 
> After about 12 hours of work, nearly all lofting is complete and I can finally start some construction! The famous boat builder and author, Howard I. Chapelle wrote in his aptly named book "Boatbuilding" - "There was never a boat built in which too much lofting had been done". By lofting, Mr. Chapelle is referring to the laying out of the lines and drawing of construction details to full scale, a tedious practice he writes "avoids much trying and fitting".
> 
> *Setting up the lofting area*
> 
> To begin, I cut up a 4×8 sheet of 3/4 plywood to create a lofting "table" that is 12'x32". This is large enough to draw all 3 plan views (sheer, body and half-breadth) which are drawn over each other. After leveling the table, I rolled out *red rosin paper*, an option some builders use to draw the plans on instead of drawing right onto the plywood (or traditionally.. the floor of a loft). I then layed out the all important "base line" and tacked a straight edge on that line from which measurements would be made. A large grid is then drawn over the entire area to indicate vertical *stations *and horizontal *waterlines*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Profile and Half-Breath view*
> 
> There are virtually no straight lines on this boat. I was immediately faced with the problem of how to correctly draw long curved lines. An ideal curved line is a *fair curve* - one which has a smooth continuous flow to it. It turns out to be relatively simple to do, but does require a good eye. The process essentially involves the use of long wooden *battens* of straight grain and clear of knots. To create the curve, you "loosely" bend the batten around nails which are tacked onto the "grid" according to measurements in the plans. It's basically "connect the dots". The boat plans includes a *table of offsets* which have measurements for where you place your marks. Once the curve looks fair, you draw the curved line against the batten with a pencil, remove the batten and do the same thing for the next line until you have something that looks like a boat. The following photos show the line for the *profile sheer* (top edge viewed from side) and a *waterline* (water level at 6 inches viewed from top). Notice how two different views of the boat are drawn in the same space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Body Plan*
> 
> The *body plan* is the head on view of the boat and is drawn right over the other 2 plan views that were previously drawn. The measurements are taken from the lofted lines in the previous 2 plan views and the batten is used again to "connect the dots" and draw curved lines for the body plan sections. The body plan shows 7 cross sections of the hull from front to back (stern to transom) with the 5 equally spaced *stations* in between. The layout of each station are the templates for the actual station molds which will be used later to form the hull. The photos below show the shapes of the hull from head on. The reason for the white paper overlay is to show the construction detail of how the hull planking will join to the keelson and keel on the bottom of the boat. Because there are 7 body sections all overlapping in the same space on the plans, separate pieces of paper are tacked in place as needed for each section so that the details are not a hopeless mess of overlapping lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Final Results Example*
> 
> The following is an example of a different boat showing the 3 plan views. In the actual lofting, these views are drawn right over each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lessons Learned*
> I'm not crazy about the red rosin paper. It has small wrinkles in it that slightly distort the lines. It's not enough to throw off any measurements by anything more than 1/64th probably, but it's not ideal. Next time, I'd whitewash the plywood and draw onto that directly.
> 
> *Lofting Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Red Rosin Paper, Home Depot, $12
> 3/4 Plywood 4×8, Lowes, $23.88
> 1×4x12 clear pine, Home Depot, $12
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $107.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 12 Hours


I have already learned a lot, too! Thanks for writing about your experience.


----------



## Splinterman

mattd said:


> *Lofting*
> 
> After about 12 hours of work, nearly all lofting is complete and I can finally start some construction! The famous boat builder and author, Howard I. Chapelle wrote in his aptly named book "Boatbuilding" - "There was never a boat built in which too much lofting had been done". By lofting, Mr. Chapelle is referring to the laying out of the lines and drawing of construction details to full scale, a tedious practice he writes "avoids much trying and fitting".
> 
> *Setting up the lofting area*
> 
> To begin, I cut up a 4×8 sheet of 3/4 plywood to create a lofting "table" that is 12'x32". This is large enough to draw all 3 plan views (sheer, body and half-breadth) which are drawn over each other. After leveling the table, I rolled out *red rosin paper*, an option some builders use to draw the plans on instead of drawing right onto the plywood (or traditionally.. the floor of a loft). I then layed out the all important "base line" and tacked a straight edge on that line from which measurements would be made. A large grid is then drawn over the entire area to indicate vertical *stations *and horizontal *waterlines*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Profile and Half-Breath view*
> 
> There are virtually no straight lines on this boat. I was immediately faced with the problem of how to correctly draw long curved lines. An ideal curved line is a *fair curve* - one which has a smooth continuous flow to it. It turns out to be relatively simple to do, but does require a good eye. The process essentially involves the use of long wooden *battens* of straight grain and clear of knots. To create the curve, you "loosely" bend the batten around nails which are tacked onto the "grid" according to measurements in the plans. It's basically "connect the dots". The boat plans includes a *table of offsets* which have measurements for where you place your marks. Once the curve looks fair, you draw the curved line against the batten with a pencil, remove the batten and do the same thing for the next line until you have something that looks like a boat. The following photos show the line for the *profile sheer* (top edge viewed from side) and a *waterline* (water level at 6 inches viewed from top). Notice how two different views of the boat are drawn in the same space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Body Plan*
> 
> The *body plan* is the head on view of the boat and is drawn right over the other 2 plan views that were previously drawn. The measurements are taken from the lofted lines in the previous 2 plan views and the batten is used again to "connect the dots" and draw curved lines for the body plan sections. The body plan shows 7 cross sections of the hull from front to back (stern to transom) with the 5 equally spaced *stations* in between. The layout of each station are the templates for the actual station molds which will be used later to form the hull. The photos below show the shapes of the hull from head on. The reason for the white paper overlay is to show the construction detail of how the hull planking will join to the keelson and keel on the bottom of the boat. Because there are 7 body sections all overlapping in the same space on the plans, separate pieces of paper are tacked in place as needed for each section so that the details are not a hopeless mess of overlapping lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Final Results Example*
> 
> The following is an example of a different boat showing the 3 plan views. In the actual lofting, these views are drawn right over each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lessons Learned*
> I'm not crazy about the red rosin paper. It has small wrinkles in it that slightly distort the lines. It's not enough to throw off any measurements by anything more than 1/64th probably, but it's not ideal. Next time, I'd whitewash the plywood and draw onto that directly.
> 
> *Lofting Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Red Rosin Paper, Home Depot, $12
> 3/4 Plywood 4×8, Lowes, $23.88
> 1×4x12 clear pine, Home Depot, $12
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $107.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 12 Hours


Hey Matt,
Chapelle was right…cannot be too careful with layouts…..take your time.
We do a lot of boat strip planking using WRC and our hull moulds must be spot on.


----------



## matt1970

mattd said:


> *Lofting*
> 
> After about 12 hours of work, nearly all lofting is complete and I can finally start some construction! The famous boat builder and author, Howard I. Chapelle wrote in his aptly named book "Boatbuilding" - "There was never a boat built in which too much lofting had been done". By lofting, Mr. Chapelle is referring to the laying out of the lines and drawing of construction details to full scale, a tedious practice he writes "avoids much trying and fitting".
> 
> *Setting up the lofting area*
> 
> To begin, I cut up a 4×8 sheet of 3/4 plywood to create a lofting "table" that is 12'x32". This is large enough to draw all 3 plan views (sheer, body and half-breadth) which are drawn over each other. After leveling the table, I rolled out *red rosin paper*, an option some builders use to draw the plans on instead of drawing right onto the plywood (or traditionally.. the floor of a loft). I then layed out the all important "base line" and tacked a straight edge on that line from which measurements would be made. A large grid is then drawn over the entire area to indicate vertical *stations *and horizontal *waterlines*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Profile and Half-Breath view*
> 
> There are virtually no straight lines on this boat. I was immediately faced with the problem of how to correctly draw long curved lines. An ideal curved line is a *fair curve* - one which has a smooth continuous flow to it. It turns out to be relatively simple to do, but does require a good eye. The process essentially involves the use of long wooden *battens* of straight grain and clear of knots. To create the curve, you "loosely" bend the batten around nails which are tacked onto the "grid" according to measurements in the plans. It's basically "connect the dots". The boat plans includes a *table of offsets* which have measurements for where you place your marks. Once the curve looks fair, you draw the curved line against the batten with a pencil, remove the batten and do the same thing for the next line until you have something that looks like a boat. The following photos show the line for the *profile sheer* (top edge viewed from side) and a *waterline* (water level at 6 inches viewed from top). Notice how two different views of the boat are drawn in the same space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Drawing the Body Plan*
> 
> The *body plan* is the head on view of the boat and is drawn right over the other 2 plan views that were previously drawn. The measurements are taken from the lofted lines in the previous 2 plan views and the batten is used again to "connect the dots" and draw curved lines for the body plan sections. The body plan shows 7 cross sections of the hull from front to back (stern to transom) with the 5 equally spaced *stations* in between. The layout of each station are the templates for the actual station molds which will be used later to form the hull. The photos below show the shapes of the hull from head on. The reason for the white paper overlay is to show the construction detail of how the hull planking will join to the keelson and keel on the bottom of the boat. Because there are 7 body sections all overlapping in the same space on the plans, separate pieces of paper are tacked in place as needed for each section so that the details are not a hopeless mess of overlapping lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Final Results Example*
> 
> The following is an example of a different boat showing the 3 plan views. In the actual lofting, these views are drawn right over each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lessons Learned*
> I'm not crazy about the red rosin paper. It has small wrinkles in it that slightly distort the lines. It's not enough to throw off any measurements by anything more than 1/64th probably, but it's not ideal. Next time, I'd whitewash the plywood and draw onto that directly.
> 
> *Lofting Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Red Rosin Paper, Home Depot, $12
> 3/4 Plywood 4×8, Lowes, $23.88
> 1×4x12 clear pine, Home Depot, $12
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $107.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 12 Hours


wow this is amazing…


----------



## mattd

*Building the Molds*

Finished the molds today! The molds create the form upon which the boat will be built. There are 5 mold forms for this boat.

The shape of the molds are taken right from the lofting drawing. *Picking Up* refers to techniques of transferring shapes on the lofting to boards so that the shapes can be cut out. To pick up the mold shapes, I ground off half of the heads of a few dozen nails so that they would lay flat exactly on the lines in the drawing that I wanted to transfer. I then placed boards over the nails and lightly hammered down until the nails stuck into the wood. The boards are flipped over and a batten is used to draw a curve along the impressions left by the nail heads. The molds are then cut out on a bandsaw (both sides at the same time). The 2 sides of the mold are then compared to the lofting for any fine tuning. They are then nailed in place on the lofting and tied together with cross-spalls and cleats.




























Next is building the *strongback* and placing the molds.

*Mold Materials List:*


(2) 1×8x12, Lowes, $24
(2) 1×6x12, Lowes, $12
Misc nails and scrap lumber

*Project Materials Summary:*


Plans and Book: $60
Lofting Supplies: $47.88
Mold Supplies: $36

- Total Project Expenses so far: $143.88

*Labor Hours Summary:*


5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 17 Hours


----------



## patron

mattd said:


> *Building the Molds*
> 
> Finished the molds today! The molds create the form upon which the boat will be built. There are 5 mold forms for this boat.
> 
> The shape of the molds are taken right from the lofting drawing. *Picking Up* refers to techniques of transferring shapes on the lofting to boards so that the shapes can be cut out. To pick up the mold shapes, I ground off half of the heads of a few dozen nails so that they would lay flat exactly on the lines in the drawing that I wanted to transfer. I then placed boards over the nails and lightly hammered down until the nails stuck into the wood. The boards are flipped over and a batten is used to draw a curve along the impressions left by the nail heads. The molds are then cut out on a bandsaw (both sides at the same time). The 2 sides of the mold are then compared to the lofting for any fine tuning. They are then nailed in place on the lofting and tied together with cross-spalls and cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is building the *strongback* and placing the molds.
> 
> *Mold Materials List:*
> 
> 
> (2) 1×8x12, Lowes, $24
> (2) 1×6x12, Lowes, $12
> Misc nails and scrap lumber
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $143.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 17 Hours


we're looking good , matt .
thanks for showing us the steps in this and the costs .
im going to favorite this so i can enjoy it with you .

hi jim , i know your here close !


----------



## FatherHooligan

mattd said:


> *Building the Molds*
> 
> Finished the molds today! The molds create the form upon which the boat will be built. There are 5 mold forms for this boat.
> 
> The shape of the molds are taken right from the lofting drawing. *Picking Up* refers to techniques of transferring shapes on the lofting to boards so that the shapes can be cut out. To pick up the mold shapes, I ground off half of the heads of a few dozen nails so that they would lay flat exactly on the lines in the drawing that I wanted to transfer. I then placed boards over the nails and lightly hammered down until the nails stuck into the wood. The boards are flipped over and a batten is used to draw a curve along the impressions left by the nail heads. The molds are then cut out on a bandsaw (both sides at the same time). The 2 sides of the mold are then compared to the lofting for any fine tuning. They are then nailed in place on the lofting and tied together with cross-spalls and cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is building the *strongback* and placing the molds.
> 
> *Mold Materials List:*
> 
> 
> (2) 1×8x12, Lowes, $24
> (2) 1×6x12, Lowes, $12
> Misc nails and scrap lumber
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $143.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 17 Hours


Very interesting, thanks for blogging this. Great detail.


----------



## Splinterman

mattd said:


> *Building the Molds*
> 
> Finished the molds today! The molds create the form upon which the boat will be built. There are 5 mold forms for this boat.
> 
> The shape of the molds are taken right from the lofting drawing. *Picking Up* refers to techniques of transferring shapes on the lofting to boards so that the shapes can be cut out. To pick up the mold shapes, I ground off half of the heads of a few dozen nails so that they would lay flat exactly on the lines in the drawing that I wanted to transfer. I then placed boards over the nails and lightly hammered down until the nails stuck into the wood. The boards are flipped over and a batten is used to draw a curve along the impressions left by the nail heads. The molds are then cut out on a bandsaw (both sides at the same time). The 2 sides of the mold are then compared to the lofting for any fine tuning. They are then nailed in place on the lofting and tied together with cross-spalls and cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is building the *strongback* and placing the molds.
> 
> *Mold Materials List:*
> 
> 
> (2) 1×8x12, Lowes, $24
> (2) 1×6x12, Lowes, $12
> Misc nails and scrap lumber
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $143.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 17 Hours


Hey matt,
Keep it coming man….looking good.


----------



## OCG

mattd said:


> *Building the Molds*
> 
> Finished the molds today! The molds create the form upon which the boat will be built. There are 5 mold forms for this boat.
> 
> The shape of the molds are taken right from the lofting drawing. *Picking Up* refers to techniques of transferring shapes on the lofting to boards so that the shapes can be cut out. To pick up the mold shapes, I ground off half of the heads of a few dozen nails so that they would lay flat exactly on the lines in the drawing that I wanted to transfer. I then placed boards over the nails and lightly hammered down until the nails stuck into the wood. The boards are flipped over and a batten is used to draw a curve along the impressions left by the nail heads. The molds are then cut out on a bandsaw (both sides at the same time). The 2 sides of the mold are then compared to the lofting for any fine tuning. They are then nailed in place on the lofting and tied together with cross-spalls and cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is building the *strongback* and placing the molds.
> 
> *Mold Materials List:*
> 
> 
> (2) 1×8x12, Lowes, $24
> (2) 1×6x12, Lowes, $12
> Misc nails and scrap lumber
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $143.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 17 Hours


thank for posting
it will be nice to see this go forward


----------



## matt1970

mattd said:


> *Building the Molds*
> 
> Finished the molds today! The molds create the form upon which the boat will be built. There are 5 mold forms for this boat.
> 
> The shape of the molds are taken right from the lofting drawing. *Picking Up* refers to techniques of transferring shapes on the lofting to boards so that the shapes can be cut out. To pick up the mold shapes, I ground off half of the heads of a few dozen nails so that they would lay flat exactly on the lines in the drawing that I wanted to transfer. I then placed boards over the nails and lightly hammered down until the nails stuck into the wood. The boards are flipped over and a batten is used to draw a curve along the impressions left by the nail heads. The molds are then cut out on a bandsaw (both sides at the same time). The 2 sides of the mold are then compared to the lofting for any fine tuning. They are then nailed in place on the lofting and tied together with cross-spalls and cleats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is building the *strongback* and placing the molds.
> 
> *Mold Materials List:*
> 
> 
> (2) 1×8x12, Lowes, $24
> (2) 1×6x12, Lowes, $12
> Misc nails and scrap lumber
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $143.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 17 Hours


this is insane…I AM FAR AWAY FROM trying this…but loving the detailed steps…


----------



## mattd

*Strongback *

The *strongback* is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.

Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.

Thanks for reading!

Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.



















*Strongback Materials List:*


(2) 2×8x12, Lowes
(1) 2×10x10, Lowes
(2) 2×4x8, Lowes
Total for above: $33
Misc nails and scrap lumber

*Project Materials Summary:*


Plans and Book: $60
Lofting Supplies: $47.88
Mold Supplies: $36
Strongback Lumber: $33

- Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88

*Labor Hours Summary:*


5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours 
6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

mattd said:


> *Strongback *
> 
> The *strongback* is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.
> 
> Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Strongback Materials List:*
> 
> 
> (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
> (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
> (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
> Total for above: $33
> Misc nails and scrap lumber
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours


Looks nice!


----------



## a1Jim

mattd said:


> *Strongback *
> 
> The *strongback* is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.
> 
> Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Strongback Materials List:*
> 
> 
> (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
> (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
> (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
> Total for above: $33
> Misc nails and scrap lumber
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours


looks good look forward to more.


----------



## Splinterman

mattd said:


> *Strongback *
> 
> The *strongback* is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.
> 
> Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Strongback Materials List:*
> 
> 
> (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
> (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
> (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
> Total for above: $33
> Misc nails and scrap lumber
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours


Hey Matt,
Looking good…...but…......just a small suggestion….....to reduce lateral deflection in your jig, screw two vertical 4×2 to a 4×4 foot plate and mount it in the center of your jig….......trust me…....it will bend over time…...been there done that.


----------



## JoeC61

mattd said:


> *Strongback *
> 
> The *strongback* is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.
> 
> Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Strongback Materials List:*
> 
> 
> (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
> (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
> (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
> Total for above: $33
> Misc nails and scrap lumber
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours


This looks like a great project! We recently visited Grand Marais, MN, on the north shore of Lake Superior. There's a school there called the North House Folk School (http://www.northhouse.org/) where boat building such as this is taught (among other wood working classes, timber frame, log home…). 
Seeing your project makes me want to sign up!


----------



## mattd

mattd said:


> *Strongback *
> 
> The *strongback* is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.
> 
> Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Strongback Materials List:*
> 
> 
> (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
> (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
> (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
> Total for above: $33
> Misc nails and scrap lumber
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours


Splinterman - Thank you for that suggestion. I'm going to add that center support.

DaveR - To make the stem, I plan to make a pattern picked up from the lofted plans and then cut the stem from the template. The stem will be a single curved piece of white oak with a knee section to join to the keelson and keel. 1.5" thick. I'll carve out a rabbet for the planks to fit into.


----------



## cylis007

mattd said:


> *Strongback *
> 
> The *strongback* is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.
> 
> Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Strongback Materials List:*
> 
> 
> (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
> (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
> (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
> Total for above: $33
> Misc nails and scrap lumber
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours


I am really enjoying following your progress. Great work! Thanks for sharing.


----------



## matt1970

mattd said:


> *Strongback *
> 
> The *strongback* is completed and the molds are in position. Starting to take shape! The strongback is the very flat, level and squared box in the photos below. It is attached to short (2 foot high) sawhorses on each end. The molds are attached and braced to the strongback. The boat will be constructed upside down over the molds. So far, I haven't built anything that will be an actual piece of the boat when it's completed! Everything in the pictures below will eventually go to the lumber pile for some future project. Ah well. More exciting stuff is coming up soon.
> 
> Next is building the transom (the back of the boat) and attaching that to the strongback. This will be the first "real" piece of the boat.
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> Photos shows the view facing the front of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Strongback Materials List:*
> 
> 
> (2) 2×8x12, Lowes
> (1) 2×10x10, Lowes
> (2) 2×4x8, Lowes
> Total for above: $33
> Misc nails and scrap lumber
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $176.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 24.5 Hours


great stuff…


----------



## mattd

*Building the Transom*

Completed the *transom* today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).

Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.

Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.










This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw *both profiles* on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.










After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.










Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.










Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!










*Next Step*

Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.

*Transom Materials List:*


G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
(3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value) 
(2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap

*Project Materials Summary:*


Plans and Book: $60
Lofting Supplies: $47.88
Mold Supplies: $36
Strongback Lumber: $33
Transom Materials: $22

- Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88

*Labor Hours Summary:*


5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours 
6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours


----------



## a1Jim

mattd said:


> *Building the Transom*
> 
> Completed the *transom* today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).
> 
> Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.
> 
> Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw *both profiles* on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.
> 
> *Transom Materials List:*
> 
> 
> G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
> (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
> (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours


looks good look forward to more


----------



## a1Jim

mattd said:


> *Building the Transom*
> 
> Completed the *transom* today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).
> 
> Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.
> 
> Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw *both profiles* on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.
> 
> *Transom Materials List:*
> 
> 
> G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
> (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
> (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours


looks good look forward to more


----------



## Karson

mattd said:


> *Building the Transom*
> 
> Completed the *transom* today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).
> 
> Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.
> 
> Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw *both profiles* on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.
> 
> *Transom Materials List:*
> 
> 
> G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
> (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
> (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours


matt: it looks great. I'm going to be sure and follow along.


----------



## itsarvninea

mattd said:


> *Building the Transom*
> 
> Completed the *transom* today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).
> 
> Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.
> 
> Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw *both profiles* on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.
> 
> *Transom Materials List:*
> 
> 
> G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
> (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
> (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours


great work Matt look forward to watching your progress

-Steve from Bernhards Bay New York


----------



## dog2bert

mattd said:


> *Building the Transom*
> 
> Completed the *transom* today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).
> 
> Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.
> 
> Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw *both profiles* on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.
> 
> *Transom Materials List:*
> 
> 
> G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
> (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
> (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours


Good progress has been made


----------



## patron

mattd said:


> *Building the Transom*
> 
> Completed the *transom* today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).
> 
> Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.
> 
> Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw *both profiles* on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.
> 
> *Transom Materials List:*
> 
> 
> G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
> (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
> (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours


great progress ,
and your running score on the materials
and money is really inspiring to all im sure !
the term is a " rolling bevel " for the transom edge .
also on planking .


----------



## mattd

mattd said:


> *Building the Transom*
> 
> Completed the *transom* today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).
> 
> Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.
> 
> Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw *both profiles* on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.
> 
> *Transom Materials List:*
> 
> 
> G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
> (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
> (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours


Patron - I'm hoping the running costs continue to be inspiring! I just ordered the bolts and screws. It was a somewhat painful choice to go with silicon bronze for a cheapskate like me, but I want this to be around for a long time.

Thanks for the tips on lofting the fasteners by the way. I wouldn't have done that and I'm seeing the importance of it already.


----------



## matt1970

mattd said:


> *Building the Transom*
> 
> Completed the *transom* today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).
> 
> Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.
> 
> Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw *both profiles* on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.
> 
> *Transom Materials List:*
> 
> 
> G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
> (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
> (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours


thanks for sharing all this…


----------



## Splinterman

mattd said:


> *Building the Transom*
> 
> Completed the *transom* today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).
> 
> Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.
> 
> Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw *both profiles* on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.
> 
> *Transom Materials List:*
> 
> 
> G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
> (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
> (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours


Hey Matt,
The Transom came out real nice…but…try and use use the two following very expensive products in your building process and you wont go wrong.
Very hard to find these products but I know you will…....They are called…."Attention to detail" and the most expensive one…"Tender loving care". It's your new baby Matt, so treat her well.


----------



## cylis007

mattd said:


> *Building the Transom*
> 
> Completed the *transom* today. The transom is the back section of the boat where I'll mount the 250hp Mercury outboard. (Just kidding).
> 
> Transom is 1" thick black cherry. I choose cherry because I like it and I have a lot of it from a tree I milled a few years ago.
> 
> Here is the glue up with epoxy. Joints are splined with pine. Straightfoward so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This next part gave me a headache for awhile. The edge around the transom is a compound beveled edge and the entire transom itself will also be tilted at about 12 degrees. The angle of the edge gradually changes depending on how the planking will meet the transom at any point. At first, this seemed like a very difficult problem until I realized (after checking several books) that it's just a matter of lofting an "inboard" and "outboard" profile view representing the face on the inside and the outside of the boat respectively. I then used the same methods as lofting the mold stations to transfer the profile view to the half-breadth and body plan views. Once I did this, the measurements were easy to tick off from the lofting directly to the cherry blank. To do this, I drew a grid on the blank that lines up with the grid on the lofting. I transfered the measurements onto the blank grid and then used a batten to bend around the points to draw a fair curve. One trick I picked up in the book "Building Sunshine" is to draw *both profiles* on the same side of the blank (see photo below). This is faster and helps to ensure that everything is lined up. You should be able to just make out the lines in the photo below. I then cut the outside profile line at 90 degrees on the bandsaw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the transom is rough cut out, I used spokeshave and plane to clean up the edge. I then used a jigsaw to roughly cut the angle around the inboard line, just to remove most of the wood. I then used the spokeshave and plane again to smooth out the bevel down to the lines. The edge on this thing is really cool. Nice smooth curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rest of it is pretty easy. Card scaper cleanup and finish. Threw some water on it to check out the figure in the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last step was to mount it on the strong back at the appropriate angle. Transom is ready!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Next step will be the other end of the boat… the white oak stem and knee. Per DaveR's request, I'll detail the process as much as I can. I've been looking forward to this part.
> 
> *Transom Materials List:*
> 
> 
> G/Flex Marine Epoxy: $22, Local Marine Supply
> (3) 1×6x36 Cherry: $0, Milled from inventory on hand ($45 approx value)
> (2) 3/4" x 36"x 3/8" pine splines: $0, Misc scrap
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 30.5 Hours


It looks like it is coming along well. Thanks for sharing the hours and money related to this project for those of us considering following in your footsteps. Thanks again!


----------



## mattd

*Stem and Knee - Part 1*

I'm starting construction of the stem and knee by making sure that I have these parts drawn correctly on the full size drawing (lofting). I could really use some advice before I actually cut out the parts!

The photo below is the front section of my lofting. I used photoshop to make the lines and sections of the stem more visible. The stem is actually two parts as shown in the lofting below. The red section is the stem and the green section is the knee. I'll make luan templates to cut these pieces from white oak and bolt them together.



After cutting out the stem and knee, the challenge will be to carve out a *rabbet *that will receive the planking. This is what it should look like:










In my first lofting photo above, the two solid black curved lines represent the *rabbet *and *bearding* lines which will be used as the reference to carve out the rabbet to the depth of the planking (3/8").

It's important to note that the lofting shows the *profile view* (side view) and *half-breath view* (top view of half the boat) on the same drawing. The light grey lines are waterlines for the profile view and the blue lines are water lines for the half-breath view. These waterlines represent heights every 3 inches and are very much related to each other to determine the overall shape of the boat.

The *rabbet* line is determined early in the lofting and is drawn in the profile view using a batten to establish a fair curve from the tip of the boat to the bottom keel. The *bearding* line is determined from the angles of the planks at different points where they intersect with the stem. These angles are shown in the half-breath view as solid blue lines. These lines are like a contour map of the hull and meet the center stem at different heights and angles. For example, the lowest blue line shows how the outside of the plank will meet the stem at the rabbet line at a height of 6". The planks will be 3/8" thick, so I drew a parallel line 3/8" away and noted where the inside of the plank would intersect the stem. Using a square, I then placed a mark on the profile view at the same point 6" in height on the stem to indicate where the bearding line should be for that point. The same process is done for the waterlines for other heights, 9", 12", 15" etc. and the marks are connected with a batten to form the entire curve for bearding line.

*Need some advice:*

As detailed as this may seem to be, I'm not 100% confident that the rabbet will be perfect if I carve it all out on the bench from these measurements. I'm trying to decide if I should carve out just the top section on the bench and complete the bottom section after I put the stem in place and can do some test fitting and final carving with everything up on the molds. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!

*Lessons Learned:*

When trying to work out how to fit the keel to the stem knee on the drawing, I realized that my original drawing of the stem profile was off. It didn't fit the measurements from the blueprint. The keel would have had to curve up sharply to meet the stem and other parts wouldn't fit according to the plan, such as the mast step. I had to re-loft the entire front end, moving the profile of the stem out about an inch. Fortunately, the changes were slight enough that they had no effect on the rest of the drawing including the station molds, which I had already built. Next time, I think it would be a good idea to add more details earlier in the lofting to make sure everything fits before cutting any actual wood.

Also, an observation I've recently made is that I'm really starting to be able to think through solving problems with this project much easier than when I started. For example, working with the relationships between the different views of the boat was very difficult at first. I think I owe this to reading, practice, writing this blog and getting some tips from others on here. I'm nowhere near an expert or anything, but I'm no longer entirely fearful of this project.

*Materials List:*

None!

*Project Materials Summary:*


Plans and Book: $60
Lofting Supplies: $47.88
Mold Supplies: $36
Strongback Lumber: $33
Transom Materials: $22

- Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88

*Labor Hours Summary:*


5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours 
6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours 
7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 33.5 Hours


----------



## a1Jim

mattd said:


> *Stem and Knee - Part 1*
> 
> I'm starting construction of the stem and knee by making sure that I have these parts drawn correctly on the full size drawing (lofting). I could really use some advice before I actually cut out the parts!
> 
> The photo below is the front section of my lofting. I used photoshop to make the lines and sections of the stem more visible. The stem is actually two parts as shown in the lofting below. The red section is the stem and the green section is the knee. I'll make luan templates to cut these pieces from white oak and bolt them together.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting out the stem and knee, the challenge will be to carve out a *rabbet *that will receive the planking. This is what it should look like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my first lofting photo above, the two solid black curved lines represent the *rabbet *and *bearding* lines which will be used as the reference to carve out the rabbet to the depth of the planking (3/8").
> 
> It's important to note that the lofting shows the *profile view* (side view) and *half-breath view* (top view of half the boat) on the same drawing. The light grey lines are waterlines for the profile view and the blue lines are water lines for the half-breath view. These waterlines represent heights every 3 inches and are very much related to each other to determine the overall shape of the boat.
> 
> The *rabbet* line is determined early in the lofting and is drawn in the profile view using a batten to establish a fair curve from the tip of the boat to the bottom keel. The *bearding* line is determined from the angles of the planks at different points where they intersect with the stem. These angles are shown in the half-breath view as solid blue lines. These lines are like a contour map of the hull and meet the center stem at different heights and angles. For example, the lowest blue line shows how the outside of the plank will meet the stem at the rabbet line at a height of 6". The planks will be 3/8" thick, so I drew a parallel line 3/8" away and noted where the inside of the plank would intersect the stem. Using a square, I then placed a mark on the profile view at the same point 6" in height on the stem to indicate where the bearding line should be for that point. The same process is done for the waterlines for other heights, 9", 12", 15" etc. and the marks are connected with a batten to form the entire curve for bearding line.
> 
> *Need some advice:*
> 
> As detailed as this may seem to be, I'm not 100% confident that the rabbet will be perfect if I carve it all out on the bench from these measurements. I'm trying to decide if I should carve out just the top section on the bench and complete the bottom section after I put the stem in place and can do some test fitting and final carving with everything up on the molds. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> *Lessons Learned:*
> 
> When trying to work out how to fit the keel to the stem knee on the drawing, I realized that my original drawing of the stem profile was off. It didn't fit the measurements from the blueprint. The keel would have had to curve up sharply to meet the stem and other parts wouldn't fit according to the plan, such as the mast step. I had to re-loft the entire front end, moving the profile of the stem out about an inch. Fortunately, the changes were slight enough that they had no effect on the rest of the drawing including the station molds, which I had already built. Next time, I think it would be a good idea to add more details earlier in the lofting to make sure everything fits before cutting any actual wood.
> 
> Also, an observation I've recently made is that I'm really starting to be able to think through solving problems with this project much easier than when I started. For example, working with the relationships between the different views of the boat was very difficult at first. I think I owe this to reading, practice, writing this blog and getting some tips from others on here. I'm nowhere near an expert or anything, but I'm no longer entirely fearful of this project.
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 33.5 Hours


Hey Matt
This is a great blog it's super interesting and great idea to include time and materials


----------



## patron

mattd said:


> *Stem and Knee - Part 1*
> 
> I'm starting construction of the stem and knee by making sure that I have these parts drawn correctly on the full size drawing (lofting). I could really use some advice before I actually cut out the parts!
> 
> The photo below is the front section of my lofting. I used photoshop to make the lines and sections of the stem more visible. The stem is actually two parts as shown in the lofting below. The red section is the stem and the green section is the knee. I'll make luan templates to cut these pieces from white oak and bolt them together.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting out the stem and knee, the challenge will be to carve out a *rabbet *that will receive the planking. This is what it should look like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my first lofting photo above, the two solid black curved lines represent the *rabbet *and *bearding* lines which will be used as the reference to carve out the rabbet to the depth of the planking (3/8").
> 
> It's important to note that the lofting shows the *profile view* (side view) and *half-breath view* (top view of half the boat) on the same drawing. The light grey lines are waterlines for the profile view and the blue lines are water lines for the half-breath view. These waterlines represent heights every 3 inches and are very much related to each other to determine the overall shape of the boat.
> 
> The *rabbet* line is determined early in the lofting and is drawn in the profile view using a batten to establish a fair curve from the tip of the boat to the bottom keel. The *bearding* line is determined from the angles of the planks at different points where they intersect with the stem. These angles are shown in the half-breath view as solid blue lines. These lines are like a contour map of the hull and meet the center stem at different heights and angles. For example, the lowest blue line shows how the outside of the plank will meet the stem at the rabbet line at a height of 6". The planks will be 3/8" thick, so I drew a parallel line 3/8" away and noted where the inside of the plank would intersect the stem. Using a square, I then placed a mark on the profile view at the same point 6" in height on the stem to indicate where the bearding line should be for that point. The same process is done for the waterlines for other heights, 9", 12", 15" etc. and the marks are connected with a batten to form the entire curve for bearding line.
> 
> *Need some advice:*
> 
> As detailed as this may seem to be, I'm not 100% confident that the rabbet will be perfect if I carve it all out on the bench from these measurements. I'm trying to decide if I should carve out just the top section on the bench and complete the bottom section after I put the stem in place and can do some test fitting and final carving with everything up on the molds. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> *Lessons Learned:*
> 
> When trying to work out how to fit the keel to the stem knee on the drawing, I realized that my original drawing of the stem profile was off. It didn't fit the measurements from the blueprint. The keel would have had to curve up sharply to meet the stem and other parts wouldn't fit according to the plan, such as the mast step. I had to re-loft the entire front end, moving the profile of the stem out about an inch. Fortunately, the changes were slight enough that they had no effect on the rest of the drawing including the station molds, which I had already built. Next time, I think it would be a good idea to add more details earlier in the lofting to make sure everything fits before cutting any actual wood.
> 
> Also, an observation I've recently made is that I'm really starting to be able to think through solving problems with this project much easier than when I started. For example, working with the relationships between the different views of the boat was very difficult at first. I think I owe this to reading, practice, writing this blog and getting some tips from others on here. I'm nowhere near an expert or anything, but I'm no longer entirely fearful of this project.
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 33.5 Hours


as i've stated before , you want to to know where every fastener goes ,
so they don't weaken the frames or cross each other later in the building ,
or if you add something later .
i'm really proud of you for learning all this ,
it will make your boating a real pleasure !
and thanks for sharing .


----------



## Pete_Jud

mattd said:


> *Stem and Knee - Part 1*
> 
> I'm starting construction of the stem and knee by making sure that I have these parts drawn correctly on the full size drawing (lofting). I could really use some advice before I actually cut out the parts!
> 
> The photo below is the front section of my lofting. I used photoshop to make the lines and sections of the stem more visible. The stem is actually two parts as shown in the lofting below. The red section is the stem and the green section is the knee. I'll make luan templates to cut these pieces from white oak and bolt them together.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting out the stem and knee, the challenge will be to carve out a *rabbet *that will receive the planking. This is what it should look like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my first lofting photo above, the two solid black curved lines represent the *rabbet *and *bearding* lines which will be used as the reference to carve out the rabbet to the depth of the planking (3/8").
> 
> It's important to note that the lofting shows the *profile view* (side view) and *half-breath view* (top view of half the boat) on the same drawing. The light grey lines are waterlines for the profile view and the blue lines are water lines for the half-breath view. These waterlines represent heights every 3 inches and are very much related to each other to determine the overall shape of the boat.
> 
> The *rabbet* line is determined early in the lofting and is drawn in the profile view using a batten to establish a fair curve from the tip of the boat to the bottom keel. The *bearding* line is determined from the angles of the planks at different points where they intersect with the stem. These angles are shown in the half-breath view as solid blue lines. These lines are like a contour map of the hull and meet the center stem at different heights and angles. For example, the lowest blue line shows how the outside of the plank will meet the stem at the rabbet line at a height of 6". The planks will be 3/8" thick, so I drew a parallel line 3/8" away and noted where the inside of the plank would intersect the stem. Using a square, I then placed a mark on the profile view at the same point 6" in height on the stem to indicate where the bearding line should be for that point. The same process is done for the waterlines for other heights, 9", 12", 15" etc. and the marks are connected with a batten to form the entire curve for bearding line.
> 
> *Need some advice:*
> 
> As detailed as this may seem to be, I'm not 100% confident that the rabbet will be perfect if I carve it all out on the bench from these measurements. I'm trying to decide if I should carve out just the top section on the bench and complete the bottom section after I put the stem in place and can do some test fitting and final carving with everything up on the molds. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> *Lessons Learned:*
> 
> When trying to work out how to fit the keel to the stem knee on the drawing, I realized that my original drawing of the stem profile was off. It didn't fit the measurements from the blueprint. The keel would have had to curve up sharply to meet the stem and other parts wouldn't fit according to the plan, such as the mast step. I had to re-loft the entire front end, moving the profile of the stem out about an inch. Fortunately, the changes were slight enough that they had no effect on the rest of the drawing including the station molds, which I had already built. Next time, I think it would be a good idea to add more details earlier in the lofting to make sure everything fits before cutting any actual wood.
> 
> Also, an observation I've recently made is that I'm really starting to be able to think through solving problems with this project much easier than when I started. For example, working with the relationships between the different views of the boat was very difficult at first. I think I owe this to reading, practice, writing this blog and getting some tips from others on here. I'm nowhere near an expert or anything, but I'm no longer entirely fearful of this project.
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 33.5 Hours


Back in the 80's I met a man in his late 80's in a small village in Alaska, he cut all of his knees from old growth cedar stumps that he pulled out with horse teams and left to dry for 5 years before he built his boats. I rember coming back after a fishing trip and asking him if he built that boat, he looked at the marks, and told me that it was built in 1937 by him.


----------



## Splinterman

mattd said:


> *Stem and Knee - Part 1*
> 
> I'm starting construction of the stem and knee by making sure that I have these parts drawn correctly on the full size drawing (lofting). I could really use some advice before I actually cut out the parts!
> 
> The photo below is the front section of my lofting. I used photoshop to make the lines and sections of the stem more visible. The stem is actually two parts as shown in the lofting below. The red section is the stem and the green section is the knee. I'll make luan templates to cut these pieces from white oak and bolt them together.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting out the stem and knee, the challenge will be to carve out a *rabbet *that will receive the planking. This is what it should look like:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my first lofting photo above, the two solid black curved lines represent the *rabbet *and *bearding* lines which will be used as the reference to carve out the rabbet to the depth of the planking (3/8").
> 
> It's important to note that the lofting shows the *profile view* (side view) and *half-breath view* (top view of half the boat) on the same drawing. The light grey lines are waterlines for the profile view and the blue lines are water lines for the half-breath view. These waterlines represent heights every 3 inches and are very much related to each other to determine the overall shape of the boat.
> 
> The *rabbet* line is determined early in the lofting and is drawn in the profile view using a batten to establish a fair curve from the tip of the boat to the bottom keel. The *bearding* line is determined from the angles of the planks at different points where they intersect with the stem. These angles are shown in the half-breath view as solid blue lines. These lines are like a contour map of the hull and meet the center stem at different heights and angles. For example, the lowest blue line shows how the outside of the plank will meet the stem at the rabbet line at a height of 6". The planks will be 3/8" thick, so I drew a parallel line 3/8" away and noted where the inside of the plank would intersect the stem. Using a square, I then placed a mark on the profile view at the same point 6" in height on the stem to indicate where the bearding line should be for that point. The same process is done for the waterlines for other heights, 9", 12", 15" etc. and the marks are connected with a batten to form the entire curve for bearding line.
> 
> *Need some advice:*
> 
> As detailed as this may seem to be, I'm not 100% confident that the rabbet will be perfect if I carve it all out on the bench from these measurements. I'm trying to decide if I should carve out just the top section on the bench and complete the bottom section after I put the stem in place and can do some test fitting and final carving with everything up on the molds. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> *Lessons Learned:*
> 
> When trying to work out how to fit the keel to the stem knee on the drawing, I realized that my original drawing of the stem profile was off. It didn't fit the measurements from the blueprint. The keel would have had to curve up sharply to meet the stem and other parts wouldn't fit according to the plan, such as the mast step. I had to re-loft the entire front end, moving the profile of the stem out about an inch. Fortunately, the changes were slight enough that they had no effect on the rest of the drawing including the station molds, which I had already built. Next time, I think it would be a good idea to add more details earlier in the lofting to make sure everything fits before cutting any actual wood.
> 
> Also, an observation I've recently made is that I'm really starting to be able to think through solving problems with this project much easier than when I started. For example, working with the relationships between the different views of the boat was very difficult at first. I think I owe this to reading, practice, writing this blog and getting some tips from others on here. I'm nowhere near an expert or anything, but I'm no longer entirely fearful of this project.
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $198.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 33.5 Hours


Hey Matt,
Glad you are makeing steady progress…......take your time…..measure and check three times…..cut once.
The stem can be cut a number of way's using very sharp chisels or even a router if you feel comfortable.
Do as much work on the stem as possible…off….the jig.


----------



## mattd

*Stem and Knee - Part 2*

Greetings.. Things are moving along well with the boat construction.

This part in the series is cutting out the stem and knee parts which form the front "backbone" of the boat. To do this, I created templates from 1/8" birch plywood and used those as patterns to cut the actual parts from 2" thick white oak.

To get the shape of the templates, I used the same picking up method as I used when getting the shapes from the drawing to the actual molds in part 2. This involves placing nails (which have had half the heads ground off so they lay flat), on the lofting:










Next, I carefully layed a sheet of plywood over the nails and hammered it down so that the nails stuck into the plywood at the same positions as they were on the lofting. The board is flipped over. Crude yet effective.










Next step is to connect the marks left by the nails using battens to get the curves and straight edges where appropriate.










After the lines are drawn, the templates are cut out on the bandsaw and the edges are trimmed to fit exactly on the lofting.










Now the templates are positioned and traced onto white oak. Just barely fit! Phew!










The final stem and knee pieces were cut on the bandsaw. Sections were planed down to 1.5". All edges were smoothed with a spokeshave and card scraper to fit the lofting. The top of the stem is left long intentionally to attach it to the strongback. Later, this will be cut to size after planking.










*Lessons Learned*

I probably should have set up to cut out the keel and keelson before starting on the stem, but no harm done. I'm just going to wait until the keel and keelson are on the molds before cutting out the rabbet in the stem which I had initially planned to do for my next step. I want to be able to do some actual test fitting as I cut out the rabbet and can't do that yet! Also, halfway through planing the 2" oak down to 1.5", I realized that I should have resawn it and at least have saved a 3/8" piece of oak. It's all sawdust from the planer now. Ah well.

*Next Step*

Cutting out the keel and keelson.

*Materials List:*


8/4 White Oak 32"x10", Lakeshore Hardwoods, $40 
1/8" Birch Plywood, 2'x4', Lowes, $7

*Project Materials Summary:*


Plans and Book: $60
Lofting Supplies: $47.88
Mold Supplies: $36
Strongback Lumber: $33
Transom Materials: $22
Stem and Knee: $47

- Total Project Expenses so far: $245.88

*Labor Hours Summary:*


5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours 
6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours 
7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 37.5 Hours
- Time since starting project: 63 days (2 months 2 days)


----------



## patron

mattd said:


> *Stem and Knee - Part 2*
> 
> Greetings.. Things are moving along well with the boat construction.
> 
> This part in the series is cutting out the stem and knee parts which form the front "backbone" of the boat. To do this, I created templates from 1/8" birch plywood and used those as patterns to cut the actual parts from 2" thick white oak.
> 
> To get the shape of the templates, I used the same picking up method as I used when getting the shapes from the drawing to the actual molds in part 2. This involves placing nails (which have had half the heads ground off so they lay flat), on the lofting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I carefully layed a sheet of plywood over the nails and hammered it down so that the nails stuck into the plywood at the same positions as they were on the lofting. The board is flipped over. Crude yet effective.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to connect the marks left by the nails using battens to get the curves and straight edges where appropriate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the lines are drawn, the templates are cut out on the bandsaw and the edges are trimmed to fit exactly on the lofting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the templates are positioned and traced onto white oak. Just barely fit! Phew!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final stem and knee pieces were cut on the bandsaw. Sections were planed down to 1.5". All edges were smoothed with a spokeshave and card scraper to fit the lofting. The top of the stem is left long intentionally to attach it to the strongback. Later, this will be cut to size after planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lessons Learned*
> 
> I probably should have set up to cut out the keel and keelson before starting on the stem, but no harm done. I'm just going to wait until the keel and keelson are on the molds before cutting out the rabbet in the stem which I had initially planned to do for my next step. I want to be able to do some actual test fitting as I cut out the rabbet and can't do that yet! Also, halfway through planing the 2" oak down to 1.5", I realized that I should have resawn it and at least have saved a 3/8" piece of oak. It's all sawdust from the planer now. Ah well.
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Cutting out the keel and keelson.
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> 8/4 White Oak 32"x10", Lakeshore Hardwoods, $40
> 1/8" Birch Plywood, 2'x4', Lowes, $7
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $245.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 37.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 63 days (2 months 2 days)


great work ,
and tutorial .
you show everything and explain it very well .
when are we planing on launching ?


----------



## mattd

mattd said:


> *Stem and Knee - Part 2*
> 
> Greetings.. Things are moving along well with the boat construction.
> 
> This part in the series is cutting out the stem and knee parts which form the front "backbone" of the boat. To do this, I created templates from 1/8" birch plywood and used those as patterns to cut the actual parts from 2" thick white oak.
> 
> To get the shape of the templates, I used the same picking up method as I used when getting the shapes from the drawing to the actual molds in part 2. This involves placing nails (which have had half the heads ground off so they lay flat), on the lofting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I carefully layed a sheet of plywood over the nails and hammered it down so that the nails stuck into the plywood at the same positions as they were on the lofting. The board is flipped over. Crude yet effective.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to connect the marks left by the nails using battens to get the curves and straight edges where appropriate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the lines are drawn, the templates are cut out on the bandsaw and the edges are trimmed to fit exactly on the lofting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the templates are positioned and traced onto white oak. Just barely fit! Phew!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final stem and knee pieces were cut on the bandsaw. Sections were planed down to 1.5". All edges were smoothed with a spokeshave and card scraper to fit the lofting. The top of the stem is left long intentionally to attach it to the strongback. Later, this will be cut to size after planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lessons Learned*
> 
> I probably should have set up to cut out the keel and keelson before starting on the stem, but no harm done. I'm just going to wait until the keel and keelson are on the molds before cutting out the rabbet in the stem which I had initially planned to do for my next step. I want to be able to do some actual test fitting as I cut out the rabbet and can't do that yet! Also, halfway through planing the 2" oak down to 1.5", I realized that I should have resawn it and at least have saved a 3/8" piece of oak. It's all sawdust from the planer now. Ah well.
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Cutting out the keel and keelson.
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> 8/4 White Oak 32"x10", Lakeshore Hardwoods, $40
> 1/8" Birch Plywood, 2'x4', Lowes, $7
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $245.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 37.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 63 days (2 months 2 days)


Thanks David. I think I could reasonably launch in spring 2010, maybe with the sail too. That would be ideal, but it's not really a goal.


----------



## a1Jim

mattd said:


> *Stem and Knee - Part 2*
> 
> Greetings.. Things are moving along well with the boat construction.
> 
> This part in the series is cutting out the stem and knee parts which form the front "backbone" of the boat. To do this, I created templates from 1/8" birch plywood and used those as patterns to cut the actual parts from 2" thick white oak.
> 
> To get the shape of the templates, I used the same picking up method as I used when getting the shapes from the drawing to the actual molds in part 2. This involves placing nails (which have had half the heads ground off so they lay flat), on the lofting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I carefully layed a sheet of plywood over the nails and hammered it down so that the nails stuck into the plywood at the same positions as they were on the lofting. The board is flipped over. Crude yet effective.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to connect the marks left by the nails using battens to get the curves and straight edges where appropriate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the lines are drawn, the templates are cut out on the bandsaw and the edges are trimmed to fit exactly on the lofting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the templates are positioned and traced onto white oak. Just barely fit! Phew!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final stem and knee pieces were cut on the bandsaw. Sections were planed down to 1.5". All edges were smoothed with a spokeshave and card scraper to fit the lofting. The top of the stem is left long intentionally to attach it to the strongback. Later, this will be cut to size after planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lessons Learned*
> 
> I probably should have set up to cut out the keel and keelson before starting on the stem, but no harm done. I'm just going to wait until the keel and keelson are on the molds before cutting out the rabbet in the stem which I had initially planned to do for my next step. I want to be able to do some actual test fitting as I cut out the rabbet and can't do that yet! Also, halfway through planing the 2" oak down to 1.5", I realized that I should have resawn it and at least have saved a 3/8" piece of oak. It's all sawdust from the planer now. Ah well.
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Cutting out the keel and keelson.
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> 8/4 White Oak 32"x10", Lakeshore Hardwoods, $40
> 1/8" Birch Plywood, 2'x4', Lowes, $7
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $245.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 37.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 63 days (2 months 2 days)


super blog well done


----------



## matt1970

mattd said:


> *Stem and Knee - Part 2*
> 
> Greetings.. Things are moving along well with the boat construction.
> 
> This part in the series is cutting out the stem and knee parts which form the front "backbone" of the boat. To do this, I created templates from 1/8" birch plywood and used those as patterns to cut the actual parts from 2" thick white oak.
> 
> To get the shape of the templates, I used the same picking up method as I used when getting the shapes from the drawing to the actual molds in part 2. This involves placing nails (which have had half the heads ground off so they lay flat), on the lofting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I carefully layed a sheet of plywood over the nails and hammered it down so that the nails stuck into the plywood at the same positions as they were on the lofting. The board is flipped over. Crude yet effective.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to connect the marks left by the nails using battens to get the curves and straight edges where appropriate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the lines are drawn, the templates are cut out on the bandsaw and the edges are trimmed to fit exactly on the lofting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the templates are positioned and traced onto white oak. Just barely fit! Phew!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final stem and knee pieces were cut on the bandsaw. Sections were planed down to 1.5". All edges were smoothed with a spokeshave and card scraper to fit the lofting. The top of the stem is left long intentionally to attach it to the strongback. Later, this will be cut to size after planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lessons Learned*
> 
> I probably should have set up to cut out the keel and keelson before starting on the stem, but no harm done. I'm just going to wait until the keel and keelson are on the molds before cutting out the rabbet in the stem which I had initially planned to do for my next step. I want to be able to do some actual test fitting as I cut out the rabbet and can't do that yet! Also, halfway through planing the 2" oak down to 1.5", I realized that I should have resawn it and at least have saved a 3/8" piece of oak. It's all sawdust from the planer now. Ah well.
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Cutting out the keel and keelson.
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> 8/4 White Oak 32"x10", Lakeshore Hardwoods, $40
> 1/8" Birch Plywood, 2'x4', Lowes, $7
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $245.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 37.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 63 days (2 months 2 days)


very nice…


----------



## Splinterman

mattd said:


> *Stem and Knee - Part 2*
> 
> Greetings.. Things are moving along well with the boat construction.
> 
> This part in the series is cutting out the stem and knee parts which form the front "backbone" of the boat. To do this, I created templates from 1/8" birch plywood and used those as patterns to cut the actual parts from 2" thick white oak.
> 
> To get the shape of the templates, I used the same picking up method as I used when getting the shapes from the drawing to the actual molds in part 2. This involves placing nails (which have had half the heads ground off so they lay flat), on the lofting:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I carefully layed a sheet of plywood over the nails and hammered it down so that the nails stuck into the plywood at the same positions as they were on the lofting. The board is flipped over. Crude yet effective.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to connect the marks left by the nails using battens to get the curves and straight edges where appropriate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the lines are drawn, the templates are cut out on the bandsaw and the edges are trimmed to fit exactly on the lofting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the templates are positioned and traced onto white oak. Just barely fit! Phew!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The final stem and knee pieces were cut on the bandsaw. Sections were planed down to 1.5". All edges were smoothed with a spokeshave and card scraper to fit the lofting. The top of the stem is left long intentionally to attach it to the strongback. Later, this will be cut to size after planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lessons Learned*
> 
> I probably should have set up to cut out the keel and keelson before starting on the stem, but no harm done. I'm just going to wait until the keel and keelson are on the molds before cutting out the rabbet in the stem which I had initially planned to do for my next step. I want to be able to do some actual test fitting as I cut out the rabbet and can't do that yet! Also, halfway through planing the 2" oak down to 1.5", I realized that I should have resawn it and at least have saved a 3/8" piece of oak. It's all sawdust from the planer now. Ah well.
> 
> *Next Step*
> 
> Cutting out the keel and keelson.
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> 8/4 White Oak 32"x10", Lakeshore Hardwoods, $40
> 1/8" Birch Plywood, 2'x4', Lowes, $7
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $245.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 37.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 63 days (2 months 2 days)


Hey Matt,
You are right…..Keel and Keelson is prefered but it will be ok…...take your time….....looking good.


----------



## mattd

*Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost - Part 1*

This is the construction of the *Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost*. These solid oak parts form the bottom backbone of the boat.

I started by cutting out the shape of keel and keelson by transfering the measurements from the lofting. The keel is the thicker piece which be on the very bottom of the boat.










The next step is to put a rolling bevel on the edge of the keelson. The intention is for the bottom planking to fit perfectly into a beveled "notch" that is carved into the keelson and keel. The method I used was to transfer the "bevel" lines from the lofting onto the keelson at each "station" along the length. There are 5 stations along the length of the boat about 21" apart. The following photo shows the lofting for station 1. Each station is a little different.










After the stations are marked, The keelson is put onto the molds and notched at each station to make sure that the planking will fit tightly. I had to make a few minor adjustments.










After each station is notched, I used a batten to draw slightly curved lines on the top and edge of the keelson to "connect" each station. Material between stations is removed with a plane and spokeshave so there is a nice gradual curve between each station. I have not yet cut aft of station 1 or fore of station 4. This will be done later after all the backbone components are fitted together.










At this point, I realize I need a steambox to bend the keelson along the skeg. The book says it can be bent cold (not easily I found), but recommends relieving stress with steam. So I spent a lot of time researching low cost steamboxes that can run indoors and came up with my $75 Eight Foot SteamBox, which I'm really happy with. So the keelson is steamed for a half hour fore of station 4.










Keelson is clamped hot onto the skeg and keel. Bends easy now!










This shows everything assembled in the rear section. The sternpost is the vertical piece that will be connected to the transom.










Here's a closeup of the skeg section and how all these pieces join. Everything is just test fitted here and needs a little more fitting. The extra length on the keel will be cut off later. The skeg and sternpost and joined with a mortise and tenon that is pinned with 1/4" silicon bronze. The white stuff between the skeg and sternpost is Boatlife Caulk which is like a rubber gasket/bedding compound. All joints will be bedded with this stuff eventually.










Finally, a quick note on the hardware that will be used on this project starting with the next steps. I originally planned to use stainless steel carriage bolts and screws for this project, but decided on 655 Silicon Bronze for below and above the waterline after reading up on the subject. Basically, it's about twice the cost as stainless, but it's the standard for wooden boat construction and should last much longer. It also looks great. This alloy is around 97% copper. CCFastners was the most affordable source I could find. They shipped quickly and the hardware is high quality.










*Materials List:*


8/4 White Oak 10'x8" Lakeshore Hardwoods, $75
1/4"x 1 foot bronze rod, Jamestown Distributors, $5
BoatLife Life Caulk, Jamestown Distributors, $17
Silicon Bronze Hardware, CCFastners.com, $225

*Project Materials Summary:*


Plans and Book: $60
Lofting Supplies: $47.88
Mold Supplies: $36
Strongback Lumber: $33
Transom Materials: $22
Stem and Knee: $47
Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225

- Total Project Expenses so far: $567.88

*Labor Hours Summary:*


5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours 
6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours 
7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 58.5 Hours
- Time since starting project: 81 days (2 months 20 days)


----------



## patron

mattd said:


> *Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost - Part 1*
> 
> This is the construction of the *Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost*. These solid oak parts form the bottom backbone of the boat.
> 
> I started by cutting out the shape of keel and keelson by transfering the measurements from the lofting. The keel is the thicker piece which be on the very bottom of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to put a rolling bevel on the edge of the keelson. The intention is for the bottom planking to fit perfectly into a beveled "notch" that is carved into the keelson and keel. The method I used was to transfer the "bevel" lines from the lofting onto the keelson at each "station" along the length. There are 5 stations along the length of the boat about 21" apart. The following photo shows the lofting for station 1. Each station is a little different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the stations are marked, The keelson is put onto the molds and notched at each station to make sure that the planking will fit tightly. I had to make a few minor adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After each station is notched, I used a batten to draw slightly curved lines on the top and edge of the keelson to "connect" each station. Material between stations is removed with a plane and spokeshave so there is a nice gradual curve between each station. I have not yet cut aft of station 1 or fore of station 4. This will be done later after all the backbone components are fitted together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I realize I need a steambox to bend the keelson along the skeg. The book says it can be bent cold (not easily I found), but recommends relieving stress with steam. So I spent a lot of time researching low cost steamboxes that can run indoors and came up with my $75 Eight Foot SteamBox, which I'm really happy with. So the keelson is steamed for a half hour fore of station 4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keelson is clamped hot onto the skeg and keel. Bends easy now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows everything assembled in the rear section. The sternpost is the vertical piece that will be connected to the transom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a closeup of the skeg section and how all these pieces join. Everything is just test fitted here and needs a little more fitting. The extra length on the keel will be cut off later. The skeg and sternpost and joined with a mortise and tenon that is pinned with 1/4" silicon bronze. The white stuff between the skeg and sternpost is Boatlife Caulk which is like a rubber gasket/bedding compound. All joints will be bedded with this stuff eventually.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a quick note on the hardware that will be used on this project starting with the next steps. I originally planned to use stainless steel carriage bolts and screws for this project, but decided on 655 Silicon Bronze for below and above the waterline after reading up on the subject. Basically, it's about twice the cost as stainless, but it's the standard for wooden boat construction and should last much longer. It also looks great. This alloy is around 97% copper. CCFastners was the most affordable source I could find. They shipped quickly and the hardware is high quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> 8/4 White Oak 10'x8" Lakeshore Hardwoods, $75
> 1/4"x 1 foot bronze rod, Jamestown Distributors, $5
> BoatLife Life Caulk, Jamestown Distributors, $17
> Silicon Bronze Hardware, CCFastners.com, $225
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $567.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 58.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 81 days (2 months 20 days)


looks real nice , matt .

" by guess , or by God "

you will be on ncis ,
before you know it !


----------



## itsarvninea

mattd said:


> *Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost - Part 1*
> 
> This is the construction of the *Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost*. These solid oak parts form the bottom backbone of the boat.
> 
> I started by cutting out the shape of keel and keelson by transfering the measurements from the lofting. The keel is the thicker piece which be on the very bottom of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to put a rolling bevel on the edge of the keelson. The intention is for the bottom planking to fit perfectly into a beveled "notch" that is carved into the keelson and keel. The method I used was to transfer the "bevel" lines from the lofting onto the keelson at each "station" along the length. There are 5 stations along the length of the boat about 21" apart. The following photo shows the lofting for station 1. Each station is a little different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the stations are marked, The keelson is put onto the molds and notched at each station to make sure that the planking will fit tightly. I had to make a few minor adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After each station is notched, I used a batten to draw slightly curved lines on the top and edge of the keelson to "connect" each station. Material between stations is removed with a plane and spokeshave so there is a nice gradual curve between each station. I have not yet cut aft of station 1 or fore of station 4. This will be done later after all the backbone components are fitted together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I realize I need a steambox to bend the keelson along the skeg. The book says it can be bent cold (not easily I found), but recommends relieving stress with steam. So I spent a lot of time researching low cost steamboxes that can run indoors and came up with my $75 Eight Foot SteamBox, which I'm really happy with. So the keelson is steamed for a half hour fore of station 4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keelson is clamped hot onto the skeg and keel. Bends easy now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows everything assembled in the rear section. The sternpost is the vertical piece that will be connected to the transom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a closeup of the skeg section and how all these pieces join. Everything is just test fitted here and needs a little more fitting. The extra length on the keel will be cut off later. The skeg and sternpost and joined with a mortise and tenon that is pinned with 1/4" silicon bronze. The white stuff between the skeg and sternpost is Boatlife Caulk which is like a rubber gasket/bedding compound. All joints will be bedded with this stuff eventually.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a quick note on the hardware that will be used on this project starting with the next steps. I originally planned to use stainless steel carriage bolts and screws for this project, but decided on 655 Silicon Bronze for below and above the waterline after reading up on the subject. Basically, it's about twice the cost as stainless, but it's the standard for wooden boat construction and should last much longer. It also looks great. This alloy is around 97% copper. CCFastners was the most affordable source I could find. They shipped quickly and the hardware is high quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> 8/4 White Oak 10'x8" Lakeshore Hardwoods, $75
> 1/4"x 1 foot bronze rod, Jamestown Distributors, $5
> BoatLife Life Caulk, Jamestown Distributors, $17
> Silicon Bronze Hardware, CCFastners.com, $225
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $567.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 58.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 81 days (2 months 20 days)


Keep up the good work Matt will you be making your first test run on the Liffy or Oneida Lake??


----------



## a1Jim

mattd said:


> *Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost - Part 1*
> 
> This is the construction of the *Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost*. These solid oak parts form the bottom backbone of the boat.
> 
> I started by cutting out the shape of keel and keelson by transfering the measurements from the lofting. The keel is the thicker piece which be on the very bottom of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to put a rolling bevel on the edge of the keelson. The intention is for the bottom planking to fit perfectly into a beveled "notch" that is carved into the keelson and keel. The method I used was to transfer the "bevel" lines from the lofting onto the keelson at each "station" along the length. There are 5 stations along the length of the boat about 21" apart. The following photo shows the lofting for station 1. Each station is a little different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the stations are marked, The keelson is put onto the molds and notched at each station to make sure that the planking will fit tightly. I had to make a few minor adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After each station is notched, I used a batten to draw slightly curved lines on the top and edge of the keelson to "connect" each station. Material between stations is removed with a plane and spokeshave so there is a nice gradual curve between each station. I have not yet cut aft of station 1 or fore of station 4. This will be done later after all the backbone components are fitted together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I realize I need a steambox to bend the keelson along the skeg. The book says it can be bent cold (not easily I found), but recommends relieving stress with steam. So I spent a lot of time researching low cost steamboxes that can run indoors and came up with my $75 Eight Foot SteamBox, which I'm really happy with. So the keelson is steamed for a half hour fore of station 4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keelson is clamped hot onto the skeg and keel. Bends easy now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows everything assembled in the rear section. The sternpost is the vertical piece that will be connected to the transom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a closeup of the skeg section and how all these pieces join. Everything is just test fitted here and needs a little more fitting. The extra length on the keel will be cut off later. The skeg and sternpost and joined with a mortise and tenon that is pinned with 1/4" silicon bronze. The white stuff between the skeg and sternpost is Boatlife Caulk which is like a rubber gasket/bedding compound. All joints will be bedded with this stuff eventually.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a quick note on the hardware that will be used on this project starting with the next steps. I originally planned to use stainless steel carriage bolts and screws for this project, but decided on 655 Silicon Bronze for below and above the waterline after reading up on the subject. Basically, it's about twice the cost as stainless, but it's the standard for wooden boat construction and should last much longer. It also looks great. This alloy is around 97% copper. CCFastners was the most affordable source I could find. They shipped quickly and the hardware is high quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> 8/4 White Oak 10'x8" Lakeshore Hardwoods, $75
> 1/4"x 1 foot bronze rod, Jamestown Distributors, $5
> BoatLife Life Caulk, Jamestown Distributors, $17
> Silicon Bronze Hardware, CCFastners.com, $225
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $567.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 58.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 81 days (2 months 20 days)


cool blog boats are new to me.


----------



## CaptainSkully

mattd said:


> *Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost - Part 1*
> 
> This is the construction of the *Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost*. These solid oak parts form the bottom backbone of the boat.
> 
> I started by cutting out the shape of keel and keelson by transfering the measurements from the lofting. The keel is the thicker piece which be on the very bottom of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to put a rolling bevel on the edge of the keelson. The intention is for the bottom planking to fit perfectly into a beveled "notch" that is carved into the keelson and keel. The method I used was to transfer the "bevel" lines from the lofting onto the keelson at each "station" along the length. There are 5 stations along the length of the boat about 21" apart. The following photo shows the lofting for station 1. Each station is a little different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the stations are marked, The keelson is put onto the molds and notched at each station to make sure that the planking will fit tightly. I had to make a few minor adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After each station is notched, I used a batten to draw slightly curved lines on the top and edge of the keelson to "connect" each station. Material between stations is removed with a plane and spokeshave so there is a nice gradual curve between each station. I have not yet cut aft of station 1 or fore of station 4. This will be done later after all the backbone components are fitted together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I realize I need a steambox to bend the keelson along the skeg. The book says it can be bent cold (not easily I found), but recommends relieving stress with steam. So I spent a lot of time researching low cost steamboxes that can run indoors and came up with my $75 Eight Foot SteamBox, which I'm really happy with. So the keelson is steamed for a half hour fore of station 4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keelson is clamped hot onto the skeg and keel. Bends easy now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows everything assembled in the rear section. The sternpost is the vertical piece that will be connected to the transom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a closeup of the skeg section and how all these pieces join. Everything is just test fitted here and needs a little more fitting. The extra length on the keel will be cut off later. The skeg and sternpost and joined with a mortise and tenon that is pinned with 1/4" silicon bronze. The white stuff between the skeg and sternpost is Boatlife Caulk which is like a rubber gasket/bedding compound. All joints will be bedded with this stuff eventually.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a quick note on the hardware that will be used on this project starting with the next steps. I originally planned to use stainless steel carriage bolts and screws for this project, but decided on 655 Silicon Bronze for below and above the waterline after reading up on the subject. Basically, it's about twice the cost as stainless, but it's the standard for wooden boat construction and should last much longer. It also looks great. This alloy is around 97% copper. CCFastners was the most affordable source I could find. They shipped quickly and the hardware is high quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> 8/4 White Oak 10'x8" Lakeshore Hardwoods, $75
> 1/4"x 1 foot bronze rod, Jamestown Distributors, $5
> BoatLife Life Caulk, Jamestown Distributors, $17
> Silicon Bronze Hardware, CCFastners.com, $225
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $567.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 58.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 81 days (2 months 20 days)


Dude! This is one of the coolest blogs on LJ's. If the 9' version of this tender will fit on whatever 40'-42' boat we buy next year, I will be building one. To heck with a Hypalon inflatable. Thanks for all of the feedback on lessons learned along the way. I'm also blown away by the quality of the comments, which shows the true value of LJ's. Sunshine has classically beautiful lines. As a sailor and a woodworker, this project is imperative. I can't wait for the next installment!


----------



## NickCox1

mattd said:


> *Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost - Part 1*
> 
> This is the construction of the *Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost*. These solid oak parts form the bottom backbone of the boat.
> 
> I started by cutting out the shape of keel and keelson by transfering the measurements from the lofting. The keel is the thicker piece which be on the very bottom of the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to put a rolling bevel on the edge of the keelson. The intention is for the bottom planking to fit perfectly into a beveled "notch" that is carved into the keelson and keel. The method I used was to transfer the "bevel" lines from the lofting onto the keelson at each "station" along the length. There are 5 stations along the length of the boat about 21" apart. The following photo shows the lofting for station 1. Each station is a little different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the stations are marked, The keelson is put onto the molds and notched at each station to make sure that the planking will fit tightly. I had to make a few minor adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After each station is notched, I used a batten to draw slightly curved lines on the top and edge of the keelson to "connect" each station. Material between stations is removed with a plane and spokeshave so there is a nice gradual curve between each station. I have not yet cut aft of station 1 or fore of station 4. This will be done later after all the backbone components are fitted together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I realize I need a steambox to bend the keelson along the skeg. The book says it can be bent cold (not easily I found), but recommends relieving stress with steam. So I spent a lot of time researching low cost steamboxes that can run indoors and came up with my $75 Eight Foot SteamBox, which I'm really happy with. So the keelson is steamed for a half hour fore of station 4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keelson is clamped hot onto the skeg and keel. Bends easy now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This shows everything assembled in the rear section. The sternpost is the vertical piece that will be connected to the transom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a closeup of the skeg section and how all these pieces join. Everything is just test fitted here and needs a little more fitting. The extra length on the keel will be cut off later. The skeg and sternpost and joined with a mortise and tenon that is pinned with 1/4" silicon bronze. The white stuff between the skeg and sternpost is Boatlife Caulk which is like a rubber gasket/bedding compound. All joints will be bedded with this stuff eventually.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a quick note on the hardware that will be used on this project starting with the next steps. I originally planned to use stainless steel carriage bolts and screws for this project, but decided on 655 Silicon Bronze for below and above the waterline after reading up on the subject. Basically, it's about twice the cost as stainless, but it's the standard for wooden boat construction and should last much longer. It also looks great. This alloy is around 97% copper. CCFastners was the most affordable source I could find. They shipped quickly and the hardware is high quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> 8/4 White Oak 10'x8" Lakeshore Hardwoods, $75
> 1/4"x 1 foot bronze rod, Jamestown Distributors, $5
> BoatLife Life Caulk, Jamestown Distributors, $17
> Silicon Bronze Hardware, CCFastners.com, $225
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $567.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 58.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 81 days (2 months 20 days)


Great info.
I am a novice.
What material did you use for the keel, Keelson and Stern post?


----------



## mattd

*Attaching Transom, Finding Planking Lumber and Copper Rivets*

It's been a busy month for other things, but I've made some good progress on the boat. I've also managed to find some great planking lumber, with a great story behind it, which I'll write about a bit below.

But first, update on the transom which now completes the stern.










The transom is attached to sternpost with 5 countersunk #10 bronze screws which are covered with matching cherry plugs. Later on, I'll epoxy in and cut the plugs off flush.










And a shot of the whole keel and transom assembly.










*Planking Lumber*

I've spent a lot of time researching planking lumber since I started this project. I've considered everything from Western Red, Atlantic and Northern Cedars, Cypress, Spanish Cedar and Larch. Teak and Mahogony.. far too costly. None of these species, except for Larch and Cypress maybe, grows anywhere near Central New York.

I was mostly settled on Western Red Cedar, as I can obtain it locally, until I came across an ad on craigslist listing "Larch Lumber for Sale". It turned out that the seller was an older gentleman who had bought the larch about 3-4 years ago. He had been planning to build a large boat with it for many years, since around 1950 or so as I recall. My father and I drove down to meet him, and sure enough, he had about 300bf of air dried 10"x16' larch perfectly stacked and stickered. He said he bought it from an Amish sawyer in southern New York, which would almost certainly make it Tamarack or American Larch. Larch is a conifer, almost like something between a cedar and pine and has a tough and waterproof quality to it. I've read you can build an a boat entirely from Larch including the keel, ribs, masts and planking.

We spent the entire morning with him and his wife, who are the friendliest and most interesting folks you could meet. He showed us his woodworking and stained glass shops and we talked about several of his projects including some canoes he had built. He showed us the plans to the boat that he recently decided he couldn't build. I'm sure it was hard for him to part with his planking and his project, but we talked about how we were both glad to see it going into a boat project.

We ended up driving back with about twice the amount of lumber I need for this project. Here's a shot of some of the boards I'll be using for planking.










*Copper Rivets*

After finding my planking, I needed to settle on how to fasten them together and to the ribs. There are at least a few ways to do it including clenching, riveting and glue I suppose. I finally decided on rivets using copper nails and roves and bought them from Faering Design. They specifically sell fasteners and tools for boat builders. I also bought the Rove Set tool and Bucking Hammer from them so that I have the right tools for the job. I'll probably show more details on riveting in a future entry here.










*Materials List:*


Larch Planking, Found through Craigslist, $150 (I figured half my cost here, since I'm only using some of it)
Copper Rivets and Roves, Faering Design, $175

*Project Materials Summary:*


Plans and Book: $60
Lofting Supplies: $47.88
Mold Supplies: $36
Strongback Lumber: $33
Transom Materials: $22
Stem and Knee: $47
Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325

- Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88

*Labor Hours Summary:*


5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours 
6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours 
7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 61.5 Hours
- Time since starting project: 122 days (3 months 30 days)


----------



## Bruce

mattd said:


> *Attaching Transom, Finding Planking Lumber and Copper Rivets*
> 
> It's been a busy month for other things, but I've made some good progress on the boat. I've also managed to find some great planking lumber, with a great story behind it, which I'll write about a bit below.
> 
> But first, update on the transom which now completes the stern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The transom is attached to sternpost with 5 countersunk #10 bronze screws which are covered with matching cherry plugs. Later on, I'll epoxy in and cut the plugs off flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot of the whole keel and transom assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planking Lumber*
> 
> I've spent a lot of time researching planking lumber since I started this project. I've considered everything from Western Red, Atlantic and Northern Cedars, Cypress, Spanish Cedar and Larch. Teak and Mahogony.. far too costly. None of these species, except for Larch and Cypress maybe, grows anywhere near Central New York.
> 
> I was mostly settled on Western Red Cedar, as I can obtain it locally, until I came across an ad on craigslist listing "Larch Lumber for Sale". It turned out that the seller was an older gentleman who had bought the larch about 3-4 years ago. He had been planning to build a large boat with it for many years, since around 1950 or so as I recall. My father and I drove down to meet him, and sure enough, he had about 300bf of air dried 10"x16' larch perfectly stacked and stickered. He said he bought it from an Amish sawyer in southern New York, which would almost certainly make it Tamarack or American Larch. Larch is a conifer, almost like something between a cedar and pine and has a tough and waterproof quality to it. I've read you can build an a boat entirely from Larch including the keel, ribs, masts and planking.
> 
> We spent the entire morning with him and his wife, who are the friendliest and most interesting folks you could meet. He showed us his woodworking and stained glass shops and we talked about several of his projects including some canoes he had built. He showed us the plans to the boat that he recently decided he couldn't build. I'm sure it was hard for him to part with his planking and his project, but we talked about how we were both glad to see it going into a boat project.
> 
> We ended up driving back with about twice the amount of lumber I need for this project. Here's a shot of some of the boards I'll be using for planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Copper Rivets*
> 
> After finding my planking, I needed to settle on how to fasten them together and to the ribs. There are at least a few ways to do it including clenching, riveting and glue I suppose. I finally decided on rivets using copper nails and roves and bought them from Faering Design. They specifically sell fasteners and tools for boat builders. I also bought the Rove Set tool and Bucking Hammer from them so that I have the right tools for the job. I'll probably show more details on riveting in a future entry here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Larch Planking, Found through Craigslist, $150 (I figured half my cost here, since I'm only using some of it)
> Copper Rivets and Roves, Faering Design, $175
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 61.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 122 days (3 months 30 days)


I just found your blog on building Sunshine from a link showing constructing a dust system which I am in the process of designing and installing. I have had a set of Sunshine plans on my shelf for many months now and have been reluctant to begin. Reading your blog has given me the enthusiasm to begin the lofting. Keep up the excellent work and many thanks for giving all of us "hopeful" types the confidence to begin our own boats.


----------



## Wood_Chuck

mattd said:


> *Attaching Transom, Finding Planking Lumber and Copper Rivets*
> 
> It's been a busy month for other things, but I've made some good progress on the boat. I've also managed to find some great planking lumber, with a great story behind it, which I'll write about a bit below.
> 
> But first, update on the transom which now completes the stern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The transom is attached to sternpost with 5 countersunk #10 bronze screws which are covered with matching cherry plugs. Later on, I'll epoxy in and cut the plugs off flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot of the whole keel and transom assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planking Lumber*
> 
> I've spent a lot of time researching planking lumber since I started this project. I've considered everything from Western Red, Atlantic and Northern Cedars, Cypress, Spanish Cedar and Larch. Teak and Mahogony.. far too costly. None of these species, except for Larch and Cypress maybe, grows anywhere near Central New York.
> 
> I was mostly settled on Western Red Cedar, as I can obtain it locally, until I came across an ad on craigslist listing "Larch Lumber for Sale". It turned out that the seller was an older gentleman who had bought the larch about 3-4 years ago. He had been planning to build a large boat with it for many years, since around 1950 or so as I recall. My father and I drove down to meet him, and sure enough, he had about 300bf of air dried 10"x16' larch perfectly stacked and stickered. He said he bought it from an Amish sawyer in southern New York, which would almost certainly make it Tamarack or American Larch. Larch is a conifer, almost like something between a cedar and pine and has a tough and waterproof quality to it. I've read you can build an a boat entirely from Larch including the keel, ribs, masts and planking.
> 
> We spent the entire morning with him and his wife, who are the friendliest and most interesting folks you could meet. He showed us his woodworking and stained glass shops and we talked about several of his projects including some canoes he had built. He showed us the plans to the boat that he recently decided he couldn't build. I'm sure it was hard for him to part with his planking and his project, but we talked about how we were both glad to see it going into a boat project.
> 
> We ended up driving back with about twice the amount of lumber I need for this project. Here's a shot of some of the boards I'll be using for planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Copper Rivets*
> 
> After finding my planking, I needed to settle on how to fasten them together and to the ribs. There are at least a few ways to do it including clenching, riveting and glue I suppose. I finally decided on rivets using copper nails and roves and bought them from Faering Design. They specifically sell fasteners and tools for boat builders. I also bought the Rove Set tool and Bucking Hammer from them so that I have the right tools for the job. I'll probably show more details on riveting in a future entry here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Larch Planking, Found through Craigslist, $150 (I figured half my cost here, since I'm only using some of it)
> Copper Rivets and Roves, Faering Design, $175
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 61.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 122 days (3 months 30 days)


Really nice job. Can't wait to see the finished product. Enjoy.. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## matt1970

mattd said:


> *Attaching Transom, Finding Planking Lumber and Copper Rivets*
> 
> It's been a busy month for other things, but I've made some good progress on the boat. I've also managed to find some great planking lumber, with a great story behind it, which I'll write about a bit below.
> 
> But first, update on the transom which now completes the stern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The transom is attached to sternpost with 5 countersunk #10 bronze screws which are covered with matching cherry plugs. Later on, I'll epoxy in and cut the plugs off flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot of the whole keel and transom assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planking Lumber*
> 
> I've spent a lot of time researching planking lumber since I started this project. I've considered everything from Western Red, Atlantic and Northern Cedars, Cypress, Spanish Cedar and Larch. Teak and Mahogony.. far too costly. None of these species, except for Larch and Cypress maybe, grows anywhere near Central New York.
> 
> I was mostly settled on Western Red Cedar, as I can obtain it locally, until I came across an ad on craigslist listing "Larch Lumber for Sale". It turned out that the seller was an older gentleman who had bought the larch about 3-4 years ago. He had been planning to build a large boat with it for many years, since around 1950 or so as I recall. My father and I drove down to meet him, and sure enough, he had about 300bf of air dried 10"x16' larch perfectly stacked and stickered. He said he bought it from an Amish sawyer in southern New York, which would almost certainly make it Tamarack or American Larch. Larch is a conifer, almost like something between a cedar and pine and has a tough and waterproof quality to it. I've read you can build an a boat entirely from Larch including the keel, ribs, masts and planking.
> 
> We spent the entire morning with him and his wife, who are the friendliest and most interesting folks you could meet. He showed us his woodworking and stained glass shops and we talked about several of his projects including some canoes he had built. He showed us the plans to the boat that he recently decided he couldn't build. I'm sure it was hard for him to part with his planking and his project, but we talked about how we were both glad to see it going into a boat project.
> 
> We ended up driving back with about twice the amount of lumber I need for this project. Here's a shot of some of the boards I'll be using for planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Copper Rivets*
> 
> After finding my planking, I needed to settle on how to fasten them together and to the ribs. There are at least a few ways to do it including clenching, riveting and glue I suppose. I finally decided on rivets using copper nails and roves and bought them from Faering Design. They specifically sell fasteners and tools for boat builders. I also bought the Rove Set tool and Bucking Hammer from them so that I have the right tools for the job. I'll probably show more details on riveting in a future entry here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Larch Planking, Found through Craigslist, $150 (I figured half my cost here, since I'm only using some of it)
> Copper Rivets and Roves, Faering Design, $175
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 61.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 122 days (3 months 30 days)


great deal on the wood and I think it is reallly cool that you bought it from a gentleman who could not finish his own…there is some good karma there…

maybe name the boat after him…or just call it Karma…lol…

keep enjoying the process…I know I am from here…


----------



## stefang

mattd said:


> *Attaching Transom, Finding Planking Lumber and Copper Rivets*
> 
> It's been a busy month for other things, but I've made some good progress on the boat. I've also managed to find some great planking lumber, with a great story behind it, which I'll write about a bit below.
> 
> But first, update on the transom which now completes the stern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The transom is attached to sternpost with 5 countersunk #10 bronze screws which are covered with matching cherry plugs. Later on, I'll epoxy in and cut the plugs off flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot of the whole keel and transom assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planking Lumber*
> 
> I've spent a lot of time researching planking lumber since I started this project. I've considered everything from Western Red, Atlantic and Northern Cedars, Cypress, Spanish Cedar and Larch. Teak and Mahogony.. far too costly. None of these species, except for Larch and Cypress maybe, grows anywhere near Central New York.
> 
> I was mostly settled on Western Red Cedar, as I can obtain it locally, until I came across an ad on craigslist listing "Larch Lumber for Sale". It turned out that the seller was an older gentleman who had bought the larch about 3-4 years ago. He had been planning to build a large boat with it for many years, since around 1950 or so as I recall. My father and I drove down to meet him, and sure enough, he had about 300bf of air dried 10"x16' larch perfectly stacked and stickered. He said he bought it from an Amish sawyer in southern New York, which would almost certainly make it Tamarack or American Larch. Larch is a conifer, almost like something between a cedar and pine and has a tough and waterproof quality to it. I've read you can build an a boat entirely from Larch including the keel, ribs, masts and planking.
> 
> We spent the entire morning with him and his wife, who are the friendliest and most interesting folks you could meet. He showed us his woodworking and stained glass shops and we talked about several of his projects including some canoes he had built. He showed us the plans to the boat that he recently decided he couldn't build. I'm sure it was hard for him to part with his planking and his project, but we talked about how we were both glad to see it going into a boat project.
> 
> We ended up driving back with about twice the amount of lumber I need for this project. Here's a shot of some of the boards I'll be using for planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Copper Rivets*
> 
> After finding my planking, I needed to settle on how to fasten them together and to the ribs. There are at least a few ways to do it including clenching, riveting and glue I suppose. I finally decided on rivets using copper nails and roves and bought them from Faering Design. They specifically sell fasteners and tools for boat builders. I also bought the Rove Set tool and Bucking Hammer from them so that I have the right tools for the job. I'll probably show more details on riveting in a future entry here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Larch Planking, Found through Craigslist, $150 (I figured half my cost here, since I'm only using some of it)
> Copper Rivets and Roves, Faering Design, $175
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 61.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 122 days (3 months 30 days)


Great project and great blog. It will be fun to watch your progress. I helped my son build a terrace deck from Larch last fall. It was recommended for it's ability to withstand rot, and it seems pretty strong too. (it's called Lerke here in Norway)


----------



## Splinterman

mattd said:


> *Attaching Transom, Finding Planking Lumber and Copper Rivets*
> 
> It's been a busy month for other things, but I've made some good progress on the boat. I've also managed to find some great planking lumber, with a great story behind it, which I'll write about a bit below.
> 
> But first, update on the transom which now completes the stern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The transom is attached to sternpost with 5 countersunk #10 bronze screws which are covered with matching cherry plugs. Later on, I'll epoxy in and cut the plugs off flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot of the whole keel and transom assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planking Lumber*
> 
> I've spent a lot of time researching planking lumber since I started this project. I've considered everything from Western Red, Atlantic and Northern Cedars, Cypress, Spanish Cedar and Larch. Teak and Mahogony.. far too costly. None of these species, except for Larch and Cypress maybe, grows anywhere near Central New York.
> 
> I was mostly settled on Western Red Cedar, as I can obtain it locally, until I came across an ad on craigslist listing "Larch Lumber for Sale". It turned out that the seller was an older gentleman who had bought the larch about 3-4 years ago. He had been planning to build a large boat with it for many years, since around 1950 or so as I recall. My father and I drove down to meet him, and sure enough, he had about 300bf of air dried 10"x16' larch perfectly stacked and stickered. He said he bought it from an Amish sawyer in southern New York, which would almost certainly make it Tamarack or American Larch. Larch is a conifer, almost like something between a cedar and pine and has a tough and waterproof quality to it. I've read you can build an a boat entirely from Larch including the keel, ribs, masts and planking.
> 
> We spent the entire morning with him and his wife, who are the friendliest and most interesting folks you could meet. He showed us his woodworking and stained glass shops and we talked about several of his projects including some canoes he had built. He showed us the plans to the boat that he recently decided he couldn't build. I'm sure it was hard for him to part with his planking and his project, but we talked about how we were both glad to see it going into a boat project.
> 
> We ended up driving back with about twice the amount of lumber I need for this project. Here's a shot of some of the boards I'll be using for planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Copper Rivets*
> 
> After finding my planking, I needed to settle on how to fasten them together and to the ribs. There are at least a few ways to do it including clenching, riveting and glue I suppose. I finally decided on rivets using copper nails and roves and bought them from Faering Design. They specifically sell fasteners and tools for boat builders. I also bought the Rove Set tool and Bucking Hammer from them so that I have the right tools for the job. I'll probably show more details on riveting in a future entry here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Larch Planking, Found through Craigslist, $150 (I figured half my cost here, since I'm only using some of it)
> Copper Rivets and Roves, Faering Design, $175
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 61.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 122 days (3 months 30 days)


Hey Matt,
Starting to come along real nice….take your time…..measure twice….cut once.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

mattd said:


> *Attaching Transom, Finding Planking Lumber and Copper Rivets*
> 
> It's been a busy month for other things, but I've made some good progress on the boat. I've also managed to find some great planking lumber, with a great story behind it, which I'll write about a bit below.
> 
> But first, update on the transom which now completes the stern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The transom is attached to sternpost with 5 countersunk #10 bronze screws which are covered with matching cherry plugs. Later on, I'll epoxy in and cut the plugs off flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot of the whole keel and transom assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planking Lumber*
> 
> I've spent a lot of time researching planking lumber since I started this project. I've considered everything from Western Red, Atlantic and Northern Cedars, Cypress, Spanish Cedar and Larch. Teak and Mahogony.. far too costly. None of these species, except for Larch and Cypress maybe, grows anywhere near Central New York.
> 
> I was mostly settled on Western Red Cedar, as I can obtain it locally, until I came across an ad on craigslist listing "Larch Lumber for Sale". It turned out that the seller was an older gentleman who had bought the larch about 3-4 years ago. He had been planning to build a large boat with it for many years, since around 1950 or so as I recall. My father and I drove down to meet him, and sure enough, he had about 300bf of air dried 10"x16' larch perfectly stacked and stickered. He said he bought it from an Amish sawyer in southern New York, which would almost certainly make it Tamarack or American Larch. Larch is a conifer, almost like something between a cedar and pine and has a tough and waterproof quality to it. I've read you can build an a boat entirely from Larch including the keel, ribs, masts and planking.
> 
> We spent the entire morning with him and his wife, who are the friendliest and most interesting folks you could meet. He showed us his woodworking and stained glass shops and we talked about several of his projects including some canoes he had built. He showed us the plans to the boat that he recently decided he couldn't build. I'm sure it was hard for him to part with his planking and his project, but we talked about how we were both glad to see it going into a boat project.
> 
> We ended up driving back with about twice the amount of lumber I need for this project. Here's a shot of some of the boards I'll be using for planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Copper Rivets*
> 
> After finding my planking, I needed to settle on how to fasten them together and to the ribs. There are at least a few ways to do it including clenching, riveting and glue I suppose. I finally decided on rivets using copper nails and roves and bought them from Faering Design. They specifically sell fasteners and tools for boat builders. I also bought the Rove Set tool and Bucking Hammer from them so that I have the right tools for the job. I'll probably show more details on riveting in a future entry here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Larch Planking, Found through Craigslist, $150 (I figured half my cost here, since I'm only using some of it)
> Copper Rivets and Roves, Faering Design, $175
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 61.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 122 days (3 months 30 days)


Going to be a nice boat!


----------



## rustedknuckles

mattd said:


> *Attaching Transom, Finding Planking Lumber and Copper Rivets*
> 
> It's been a busy month for other things, but I've made some good progress on the boat. I've also managed to find some great planking lumber, with a great story behind it, which I'll write about a bit below.
> 
> But first, update on the transom which now completes the stern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The transom is attached to sternpost with 5 countersunk #10 bronze screws which are covered with matching cherry plugs. Later on, I'll epoxy in and cut the plugs off flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot of the whole keel and transom assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planking Lumber*
> 
> I've spent a lot of time researching planking lumber since I started this project. I've considered everything from Western Red, Atlantic and Northern Cedars, Cypress, Spanish Cedar and Larch. Teak and Mahogony.. far too costly. None of these species, except for Larch and Cypress maybe, grows anywhere near Central New York.
> 
> I was mostly settled on Western Red Cedar, as I can obtain it locally, until I came across an ad on craigslist listing "Larch Lumber for Sale". It turned out that the seller was an older gentleman who had bought the larch about 3-4 years ago. He had been planning to build a large boat with it for many years, since around 1950 or so as I recall. My father and I drove down to meet him, and sure enough, he had about 300bf of air dried 10"x16' larch perfectly stacked and stickered. He said he bought it from an Amish sawyer in southern New York, which would almost certainly make it Tamarack or American Larch. Larch is a conifer, almost like something between a cedar and pine and has a tough and waterproof quality to it. I've read you can build an a boat entirely from Larch including the keel, ribs, masts and planking.
> 
> We spent the entire morning with him and his wife, who are the friendliest and most interesting folks you could meet. He showed us his woodworking and stained glass shops and we talked about several of his projects including some canoes he had built. He showed us the plans to the boat that he recently decided he couldn't build. I'm sure it was hard for him to part with his planking and his project, but we talked about how we were both glad to see it going into a boat project.
> 
> We ended up driving back with about twice the amount of lumber I need for this project. Here's a shot of some of the boards I'll be using for planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Copper Rivets*
> 
> After finding my planking, I needed to settle on how to fasten them together and to the ribs. There are at least a few ways to do it including clenching, riveting and glue I suppose. I finally decided on rivets using copper nails and roves and bought them from Faering Design. They specifically sell fasteners and tools for boat builders. I also bought the Rove Set tool and Bucking Hammer from them so that I have the right tools for the job. I'll probably show more details on riveting in a future entry here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Larch Planking, Found through Craigslist, $150 (I figured half my cost here, since I'm only using some of it)
> Copper Rivets and Roves, Faering Design, $175
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 61.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 122 days (3 months 30 days)


Question, did you bed the stern post to the transom with white lead? looks like you used it on the keel to keelson as well.


----------



## mattd

mattd said:


> *Attaching Transom, Finding Planking Lumber and Copper Rivets*
> 
> It's been a busy month for other things, but I've made some good progress on the boat. I've also managed to find some great planking lumber, with a great story behind it, which I'll write about a bit below.
> 
> But first, update on the transom which now completes the stern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The transom is attached to sternpost with 5 countersunk #10 bronze screws which are covered with matching cherry plugs. Later on, I'll epoxy in and cut the plugs off flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot of the whole keel and transom assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planking Lumber*
> 
> I've spent a lot of time researching planking lumber since I started this project. I've considered everything from Western Red, Atlantic and Northern Cedars, Cypress, Spanish Cedar and Larch. Teak and Mahogony.. far too costly. None of these species, except for Larch and Cypress maybe, grows anywhere near Central New York.
> 
> I was mostly settled on Western Red Cedar, as I can obtain it locally, until I came across an ad on craigslist listing "Larch Lumber for Sale". It turned out that the seller was an older gentleman who had bought the larch about 3-4 years ago. He had been planning to build a large boat with it for many years, since around 1950 or so as I recall. My father and I drove down to meet him, and sure enough, he had about 300bf of air dried 10"x16' larch perfectly stacked and stickered. He said he bought it from an Amish sawyer in southern New York, which would almost certainly make it Tamarack or American Larch. Larch is a conifer, almost like something between a cedar and pine and has a tough and waterproof quality to it. I've read you can build an a boat entirely from Larch including the keel, ribs, masts and planking.
> 
> We spent the entire morning with him and his wife, who are the friendliest and most interesting folks you could meet. He showed us his woodworking and stained glass shops and we talked about several of his projects including some canoes he had built. He showed us the plans to the boat that he recently decided he couldn't build. I'm sure it was hard for him to part with his planking and his project, but we talked about how we were both glad to see it going into a boat project.
> 
> We ended up driving back with about twice the amount of lumber I need for this project. Here's a shot of some of the boards I'll be using for planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Copper Rivets*
> 
> After finding my planking, I needed to settle on how to fasten them together and to the ribs. There are at least a few ways to do it including clenching, riveting and glue I suppose. I finally decided on rivets using copper nails and roves and bought them from Faering Design. They specifically sell fasteners and tools for boat builders. I also bought the Rove Set tool and Bucking Hammer from them so that I have the right tools for the job. I'll probably show more details on riveting in a future entry here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Larch Planking, Found through Craigslist, $150 (I figured half my cost here, since I'm only using some of it)
> Copper Rivets and Roves, Faering Design, $175
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 61.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 122 days (3 months 30 days)


Thanks everyone for the great comments and suggestions.

Bruce - Great to meet up with another (future) Sunshine builder. I would be very interested in following your progress. Once you start lofting your first few lines, you won't be able to stop. Did you get the book too? I'd recommend it.

Napaman - Cool idea for naming the boat. I'm going to give that some thought.

Rusted Knuckles - I'm using Boatlife Life-Calk for the bedding in all joints. It goes on like thick tar. Ends up on everything.


----------



## mattd

mattd said:


> *Attaching Transom, Finding Planking Lumber and Copper Rivets*
> 
> It's been a busy month for other things, but I've made some good progress on the boat. I've also managed to find some great planking lumber, with a great story behind it, which I'll write about a bit below.
> 
> But first, update on the transom which now completes the stern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The transom is attached to sternpost with 5 countersunk #10 bronze screws which are covered with matching cherry plugs. Later on, I'll epoxy in and cut the plugs off flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot of the whole keel and transom assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planking Lumber*
> 
> I've spent a lot of time researching planking lumber since I started this project. I've considered everything from Western Red, Atlantic and Northern Cedars, Cypress, Spanish Cedar and Larch. Teak and Mahogony.. far too costly. None of these species, except for Larch and Cypress maybe, grows anywhere near Central New York.
> 
> I was mostly settled on Western Red Cedar, as I can obtain it locally, until I came across an ad on craigslist listing "Larch Lumber for Sale". It turned out that the seller was an older gentleman who had bought the larch about 3-4 years ago. He had been planning to build a large boat with it for many years, since around 1950 or so as I recall. My father and I drove down to meet him, and sure enough, he had about 300bf of air dried 10"x16' larch perfectly stacked and stickered. He said he bought it from an Amish sawyer in southern New York, which would almost certainly make it Tamarack or American Larch. Larch is a conifer, almost like something between a cedar and pine and has a tough and waterproof quality to it. I've read you can build an a boat entirely from Larch including the keel, ribs, masts and planking.
> 
> We spent the entire morning with him and his wife, who are the friendliest and most interesting folks you could meet. He showed us his woodworking and stained glass shops and we talked about several of his projects including some canoes he had built. He showed us the plans to the boat that he recently decided he couldn't build. I'm sure it was hard for him to part with his planking and his project, but we talked about how we were both glad to see it going into a boat project.
> 
> We ended up driving back with about twice the amount of lumber I need for this project. Here's a shot of some of the boards I'll be using for planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Copper Rivets*
> 
> After finding my planking, I needed to settle on how to fasten them together and to the ribs. There are at least a few ways to do it including clenching, riveting and glue I suppose. I finally decided on rivets using copper nails and roves and bought them from Faering Design. They specifically sell fasteners and tools for boat builders. I also bought the Rove Set tool and Bucking Hammer from them so that I have the right tools for the job. I'll probably show more details on riveting in a future entry here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Larch Planking, Found through Craigslist, $150 (I figured half my cost here, since I'm only using some of it)
> Copper Rivets and Roves, Faering Design, $175
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 61.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 122 days (3 months 30 days)


DaveR - You know.. I've found 3M 5200 to be so "popular" with boat builders that I plan to coat the entire boat with it when I'm done.


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mattd said:


> *Attaching Transom, Finding Planking Lumber and Copper Rivets*
> 
> It's been a busy month for other things, but I've made some good progress on the boat. I've also managed to find some great planking lumber, with a great story behind it, which I'll write about a bit below.
> 
> But first, update on the transom which now completes the stern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The transom is attached to sternpost with 5 countersunk #10 bronze screws which are covered with matching cherry plugs. Later on, I'll epoxy in and cut the plugs off flush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot of the whole keel and transom assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planking Lumber*
> 
> I've spent a lot of time researching planking lumber since I started this project. I've considered everything from Western Red, Atlantic and Northern Cedars, Cypress, Spanish Cedar and Larch. Teak and Mahogony.. far too costly. None of these species, except for Larch and Cypress maybe, grows anywhere near Central New York.
> 
> I was mostly settled on Western Red Cedar, as I can obtain it locally, until I came across an ad on craigslist listing "Larch Lumber for Sale". It turned out that the seller was an older gentleman who had bought the larch about 3-4 years ago. He had been planning to build a large boat with it for many years, since around 1950 or so as I recall. My father and I drove down to meet him, and sure enough, he had about 300bf of air dried 10"x16' larch perfectly stacked and stickered. He said he bought it from an Amish sawyer in southern New York, which would almost certainly make it Tamarack or American Larch. Larch is a conifer, almost like something between a cedar and pine and has a tough and waterproof quality to it. I've read you can build an a boat entirely from Larch including the keel, ribs, masts and planking.
> 
> We spent the entire morning with him and his wife, who are the friendliest and most interesting folks you could meet. He showed us his woodworking and stained glass shops and we talked about several of his projects including some canoes he had built. He showed us the plans to the boat that he recently decided he couldn't build. I'm sure it was hard for him to part with his planking and his project, but we talked about how we were both glad to see it going into a boat project.
> 
> We ended up driving back with about twice the amount of lumber I need for this project. Here's a shot of some of the boards I'll be using for planking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Copper Rivets*
> 
> After finding my planking, I needed to settle on how to fasten them together and to the ribs. There are at least a few ways to do it including clenching, riveting and glue I suppose. I finally decided on rivets using copper nails and roves and bought them from Faering Design. They specifically sell fasteners and tools for boat builders. I also bought the Rove Set tool and Bucking Hammer from them so that I have the right tools for the job. I'll probably show more details on riveting in a future entry here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> 
> Larch Planking, Found through Craigslist, $150 (I figured half my cost here, since I'm only using some of it)
> Copper Rivets and Roves, Faering Design, $175
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 61.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 122 days (3 months 30 days)


Nice work .Will you be coating it with West System Epoxy?

Jim


----------



## mattd

*Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet*

This next part is cutting the rabbet into the Keel and Stem. The rabbet is a groove for planking to butt into. The rabbet must be accurately cut in order to form a tight seal. The rabbet for sunshine runs down both sides of the stem as shown and continues along the keel to the stern.










*Keel Rabbet*

Cutting the Rabbet in the Keel was relatively easy since I had already beveled the keelson from the lofted lines in the Stem and Knee - Part 2 section.

To me, it seemed practical to try a Stanley #90 shoulder plane, and use the angle on the keelson as a reference to cut a 90 degree "groove" into the keel so that the groove had a depth 3/8", which will be the plank thickness. I used a test 3/8" piece to test occasionally also. This method worked really well for me and seems better than chopping out.. but I've got plenty of chisel chopping ahead.










After several hours, a nice rabbet on both sides of the keel.










*Stem Rabbet*

The stem was a little more challenging. At this point, I have to really trust my lofting skills which is where I'm getting all the angles for cutting the rabbet. The rolling bevels in the stem are wild compared to the gradual changes in the keel. Although I checked everything 4 times, there's a lot of time into the stem already and I don't want to ruin it! First step is to get the bearding and rabbet lines from the lofting onto the actual stem. The rabbet line is easy, since it's a fixed distance from the edge of the stem, so I just used a marking tool referenced off the stem edge. The bearding line however is a weird curve. I transfered the bearding line from the lofting onto the templates that I made earlier for cutting out the stem. I then drilled several small holes along these lines on the template so that I could lay the template on the actual stem and draw marks through the holes. Using the template is nice this way, since I could just flip it over and make matching marks on boths sides of the stem. I should point out that the curve for the bearding and rabbet lines were originally determined from the lofting drawing. This is explained further in Stem and Knee - Part 1










With the lines transferred, I then cut a series of notches along the stem with chisels and then removed the waste between the notches. It's very nice to be able to do this on the bench instead of working on it vertically in the mold.










The angles of the cuts are tested with a 3/8" template to ensure that the planking fits correctly at each point in the stem.










Completed stem rabbet!










And a shot of the whole thing.










Finally, a close up of the intersection between the Stem and Keel. The rabbet still needs to be cut here so that there is a smooth transition. I have to wait at least a few days for the bedding compound to dry, otherwise, I'll be working with a big tar-like ball of shavings.










*Materials List:*

None for this step!

*Project Materials Summary:*


Plans and Book: $60
Lofting Supplies: $47.88
Mold Supplies: $36
Strongback Lumber: $33
Transom Materials: $22
Stem and Knee: $47
Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325

- Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88

*Labor Hours Summary:*


5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours 
6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours 
7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 70.5 Hours
- Time since starting project: 123 days (3 months 31 days)


----------



## patron

mattd said:


> *Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet*
> 
> This next part is cutting the rabbet into the Keel and Stem. The rabbet is a groove for planking to butt into. The rabbet must be accurately cut in order to form a tight seal. The rabbet for sunshine runs down both sides of the stem as shown and continues along the keel to the stern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Keel Rabbet*
> 
> Cutting the Rabbet in the Keel was relatively easy since I had already beveled the keelson from the lofted lines in the Stem and Knee - Part 2 section.
> 
> To me, it seemed practical to try a Stanley #90 shoulder plane, and use the angle on the keelson as a reference to cut a 90 degree "groove" into the keel so that the groove had a depth 3/8", which will be the plank thickness. I used a test 3/8" piece to test occasionally also. This method worked really well for me and seems better than chopping out.. but I've got plenty of chisel chopping ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After several hours, a nice rabbet on both sides of the keel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stem Rabbet*
> 
> The stem was a little more challenging. At this point, I have to really trust my lofting skills which is where I'm getting all the angles for cutting the rabbet. The rolling bevels in the stem are wild compared to the gradual changes in the keel. Although I checked everything 4 times, there's a lot of time into the stem already and I don't want to ruin it! First step is to get the bearding and rabbet lines from the lofting onto the actual stem. The rabbet line is easy, since it's a fixed distance from the edge of the stem, so I just used a marking tool referenced off the stem edge. The bearding line however is a weird curve. I transfered the bearding line from the lofting onto the templates that I made earlier for cutting out the stem. I then drilled several small holes along these lines on the template so that I could lay the template on the actual stem and draw marks through the holes. Using the template is nice this way, since I could just flip it over and make matching marks on boths sides of the stem. I should point out that the curve for the bearding and rabbet lines were originally determined from the lofting drawing. This is explained further in Stem and Knee - Part 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the lines transferred, I then cut a series of notches along the stem with chisels and then removed the waste between the notches. It's very nice to be able to do this on the bench instead of working on it vertically in the mold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The angles of the cuts are tested with a 3/8" template to ensure that the planking fits correctly at each point in the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Completed stem rabbet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot of the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a close up of the intersection between the Stem and Keel. The rabbet still needs to be cut here so that there is a smooth transition. I have to wait at least a few days for the bedding compound to dry, otherwise, I'll be working with a big tar-like ball of shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 70.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 123 days (3 months 31 days)


looks real nice , matt .

one of the things we learn in woodworking ,
is patience !
it is essential for fine work .

and it transfers into our lives ,
and helps us be better people .


----------



## stefang

mattd said:


> *Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet*
> 
> This next part is cutting the rabbet into the Keel and Stem. The rabbet is a groove for planking to butt into. The rabbet must be accurately cut in order to form a tight seal. The rabbet for sunshine runs down both sides of the stem as shown and continues along the keel to the stern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Keel Rabbet*
> 
> Cutting the Rabbet in the Keel was relatively easy since I had already beveled the keelson from the lofted lines in the Stem and Knee - Part 2 section.
> 
> To me, it seemed practical to try a Stanley #90 shoulder plane, and use the angle on the keelson as a reference to cut a 90 degree "groove" into the keel so that the groove had a depth 3/8", which will be the plank thickness. I used a test 3/8" piece to test occasionally also. This method worked really well for me and seems better than chopping out.. but I've got plenty of chisel chopping ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After several hours, a nice rabbet on both sides of the keel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stem Rabbet*
> 
> The stem was a little more challenging. At this point, I have to really trust my lofting skills which is where I'm getting all the angles for cutting the rabbet. The rolling bevels in the stem are wild compared to the gradual changes in the keel. Although I checked everything 4 times, there's a lot of time into the stem already and I don't want to ruin it! First step is to get the bearding and rabbet lines from the lofting onto the actual stem. The rabbet line is easy, since it's a fixed distance from the edge of the stem, so I just used a marking tool referenced off the stem edge. The bearding line however is a weird curve. I transfered the bearding line from the lofting onto the templates that I made earlier for cutting out the stem. I then drilled several small holes along these lines on the template so that I could lay the template on the actual stem and draw marks through the holes. Using the template is nice this way, since I could just flip it over and make matching marks on boths sides of the stem. I should point out that the curve for the bearding and rabbet lines were originally determined from the lofting drawing. This is explained further in Stem and Knee - Part 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the lines transferred, I then cut a series of notches along the stem with chisels and then removed the waste between the notches. It's very nice to be able to do this on the bench instead of working on it vertically in the mold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The angles of the cuts are tested with a 3/8" template to ensure that the planking fits correctly at each point in the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Completed stem rabbet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot of the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a close up of the intersection between the Stem and Keel. The rabbet still needs to be cut here so that there is a smooth transition. I have to wait at least a few days for the bedding compound to dry, otherwise, I'll be working with a big tar-like ball of shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 70.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 123 days (3 months 31 days)


Nicely done blog Matt. Really enjoying it. Would have liked to have built a boat, but never did, but it's fun watching the process. Thanks for posting.

Truer words were never spoken David.


----------



## SPalm

mattd said:


> *Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet*
> 
> This next part is cutting the rabbet into the Keel and Stem. The rabbet is a groove for planking to butt into. The rabbet must be accurately cut in order to form a tight seal. The rabbet for sunshine runs down both sides of the stem as shown and continues along the keel to the stern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Keel Rabbet*
> 
> Cutting the Rabbet in the Keel was relatively easy since I had already beveled the keelson from the lofted lines in the Stem and Knee - Part 2 section.
> 
> To me, it seemed practical to try a Stanley #90 shoulder plane, and use the angle on the keelson as a reference to cut a 90 degree "groove" into the keel so that the groove had a depth 3/8", which will be the plank thickness. I used a test 3/8" piece to test occasionally also. This method worked really well for me and seems better than chopping out.. but I've got plenty of chisel chopping ahead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After several hours, a nice rabbet on both sides of the keel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stem Rabbet*
> 
> The stem was a little more challenging. At this point, I have to really trust my lofting skills which is where I'm getting all the angles for cutting the rabbet. The rolling bevels in the stem are wild compared to the gradual changes in the keel. Although I checked everything 4 times, there's a lot of time into the stem already and I don't want to ruin it! First step is to get the bearding and rabbet lines from the lofting onto the actual stem. The rabbet line is easy, since it's a fixed distance from the edge of the stem, so I just used a marking tool referenced off the stem edge. The bearding line however is a weird curve. I transfered the bearding line from the lofting onto the templates that I made earlier for cutting out the stem. I then drilled several small holes along these lines on the template so that I could lay the template on the actual stem and draw marks through the holes. Using the template is nice this way, since I could just flip it over and make matching marks on boths sides of the stem. I should point out that the curve for the bearding and rabbet lines were originally determined from the lofting drawing. This is explained further in Stem and Knee - Part 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the lines transferred, I then cut a series of notches along the stem with chisels and then removed the waste between the notches. It's very nice to be able to do this on the bench instead of working on it vertically in the mold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The angles of the cuts are tested with a 3/8" template to ensure that the planking fits correctly at each point in the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Completed stem rabbet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a shot of the whole thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, a close up of the intersection between the Stem and Keel. The rabbet still needs to be cut here so that there is a smooth transition. I have to wait at least a few days for the bedding compound to dry, otherwise, I'll be working with a big tar-like ball of shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 70.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 123 days (3 months 31 days)


This is great fun to watch. A lot more work than my canoe.

Thanks for sharing,
Steve


----------



## mattd

*Stem to Keel and Lining Off*

Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides.

*Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel*

The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3"x1"x3/8") as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture:










And the after picture. This was done on both sides of course. Took about 3 hours.










*Lining Off*

According to Walter Simmons, the architect of Sunshine (the model I'm building), Lining off is the "process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull". This needs to be done to determine the shapes for the planks, which are actually quite curvy. However, if I do it right, the planks will have an effect that they look straight on the hull.

Of course, you only have to line off one half of the hull. The other half is exactly the same, just flipped, so your measurements are the same on each side.

The first step for me was to measure the length of each station from keel to sheer (bottom to top) and divide by the number of planks I'll be putting on (seven). I then marked off the location for each plank edge for each station.

Once this is done, the next step is to run a batten along these marks to make sure the curve is fair. It's more important that the curves are fair, rather than the planks being of equal width at each station.

To do the lining off, Mr. Simmons recommends a single batten method, in which you determine the position and curve of each plank as you go along, for each plank. Another method is to line off all of your planks at once using battens for each plank. I decided to try lining off all planks at once so that I could get a better feeling for how the planking would look. Of course, I can still use the single batten method later on.










And here is the final result with all battens. I still have to make some adjustments at the stem.










And that's it for now! Next step will be spiling and getting out the planks!

*Materials List:*

None for this step!

*Project Materials Summary:*


Plans and Book: $60
Lofting Supplies: $47.88
Mold Supplies: $36
Strongback Lumber: $33
Transom Materials: $22
Stem and Knee: $47
Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325

- Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88

*Labor Hours Summary:*


5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours 
6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours 
7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
9/30/09 - 10/4/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 74.5 Hours
- Time since starting project: 142 days (4 months 19 days)


----------



## matt1970

mattd said:


> *Stem to Keel and Lining Off*
> 
> Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides.
> 
> *Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel*
> 
> The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3"x1"x3/8") as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the after picture. This was done on both sides of course. Took about 3 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lining Off*
> 
> According to Walter Simmons, the architect of Sunshine (the model I'm building), Lining off is the "process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull". This needs to be done to determine the shapes for the planks, which are actually quite curvy. However, if I do it right, the planks will have an effect that they look straight on the hull.
> 
> Of course, you only have to line off one half of the hull. The other half is exactly the same, just flipped, so your measurements are the same on each side.
> 
> The first step for me was to measure the length of each station from keel to sheer (bottom to top) and divide by the number of planks I'll be putting on (seven). I then marked off the location for each plank edge for each station.
> 
> Once this is done, the next step is to run a batten along these marks to make sure the curve is fair. It's more important that the curves are fair, rather than the planks being of equal width at each station.
> 
> To do the lining off, Mr. Simmons recommends a single batten method, in which you determine the position and curve of each plank as you go along, for each plank. Another method is to line off all of your planks at once using battens for each plank. I decided to try lining off all planks at once so that I could get a better feeling for how the planking would look. Of course, I can still use the single batten method later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the final result with all battens. I still have to make some adjustments at the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now! Next step will be spiling and getting out the planks!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 9/30/09 - 10/4/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 74.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 142 days (4 months 19 days)


this is really fabulous…I am watching every step…cant wait to see the next step…good luck…


----------



## a1Jim

mattd said:


> *Stem to Keel and Lining Off*
> 
> Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides.
> 
> *Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel*
> 
> The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3"x1"x3/8") as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the after picture. This was done on both sides of course. Took about 3 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lining Off*
> 
> According to Walter Simmons, the architect of Sunshine (the model I'm building), Lining off is the "process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull". This needs to be done to determine the shapes for the planks, which are actually quite curvy. However, if I do it right, the planks will have an effect that they look straight on the hull.
> 
> Of course, you only have to line off one half of the hull. The other half is exactly the same, just flipped, so your measurements are the same on each side.
> 
> The first step for me was to measure the length of each station from keel to sheer (bottom to top) and divide by the number of planks I'll be putting on (seven). I then marked off the location for each plank edge for each station.
> 
> Once this is done, the next step is to run a batten along these marks to make sure the curve is fair. It's more important that the curves are fair, rather than the planks being of equal width at each station.
> 
> To do the lining off, Mr. Simmons recommends a single batten method, in which you determine the position and curve of each plank as you go along, for each plank. Another method is to line off all of your planks at once using battens for each plank. I decided to try lining off all planks at once so that I could get a better feeling for how the planking would look. Of course, I can still use the single batten method later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the final result with all battens. I still have to make some adjustments at the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now! Next step will be spiling and getting out the planks!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 9/30/09 - 10/4/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 74.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 142 days (4 months 19 days)


This is great super blog


----------



## patron

mattd said:


> *Stem to Keel and Lining Off*
> 
> Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides.
> 
> *Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel*
> 
> The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3"x1"x3/8") as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the after picture. This was done on both sides of course. Took about 3 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lining Off*
> 
> According to Walter Simmons, the architect of Sunshine (the model I'm building), Lining off is the "process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull". This needs to be done to determine the shapes for the planks, which are actually quite curvy. However, if I do it right, the planks will have an effect that they look straight on the hull.
> 
> Of course, you only have to line off one half of the hull. The other half is exactly the same, just flipped, so your measurements are the same on each side.
> 
> The first step for me was to measure the length of each station from keel to sheer (bottom to top) and divide by the number of planks I'll be putting on (seven). I then marked off the location for each plank edge for each station.
> 
> Once this is done, the next step is to run a batten along these marks to make sure the curve is fair. It's more important that the curves are fair, rather than the planks being of equal width at each station.
> 
> To do the lining off, Mr. Simmons recommends a single batten method, in which you determine the position and curve of each plank as you go along, for each plank. Another method is to line off all of your planks at once using battens for each plank. I decided to try lining off all planks at once so that I could get a better feeling for how the planking would look. Of course, I can still use the single batten method later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the final result with all battens. I still have to make some adjustments at the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now! Next step will be spiling and getting out the planks!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 9/30/09 - 10/4/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 74.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 142 days (4 months 19 days)


well done , gibbs !

i'll have to start picking out a new sailing outfit soon .


----------



## Sawdust2

mattd said:


> *Stem to Keel and Lining Off*
> 
> Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides.
> 
> *Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel*
> 
> The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3"x1"x3/8") as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the after picture. This was done on both sides of course. Took about 3 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lining Off*
> 
> According to Walter Simmons, the architect of Sunshine (the model I'm building), Lining off is the "process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull". This needs to be done to determine the shapes for the planks, which are actually quite curvy. However, if I do it right, the planks will have an effect that they look straight on the hull.
> 
> Of course, you only have to line off one half of the hull. The other half is exactly the same, just flipped, so your measurements are the same on each side.
> 
> The first step for me was to measure the length of each station from keel to sheer (bottom to top) and divide by the number of planks I'll be putting on (seven). I then marked off the location for each plank edge for each station.
> 
> Once this is done, the next step is to run a batten along these marks to make sure the curve is fair. It's more important that the curves are fair, rather than the planks being of equal width at each station.
> 
> To do the lining off, Mr. Simmons recommends a single batten method, in which you determine the position and curve of each plank as you go along, for each plank. Another method is to line off all of your planks at once using battens for each plank. I decided to try lining off all planks at once so that I could get a better feeling for how the planking would look. Of course, I can still use the single batten method later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the final result with all battens. I still have to make some adjustments at the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now! Next step will be spiling and getting out the planks!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 9/30/09 - 10/4/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 74.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 142 days (4 months 19 days)


Dang it, patron.
You beat me to it.

Lee


----------



## Karson

mattd said:


> *Stem to Keel and Lining Off*
> 
> Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides.
> 
> *Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel*
> 
> The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3"x1"x3/8") as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the after picture. This was done on both sides of course. Took about 3 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lining Off*
> 
> According to Walter Simmons, the architect of Sunshine (the model I'm building), Lining off is the "process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull". This needs to be done to determine the shapes for the planks, which are actually quite curvy. However, if I do it right, the planks will have an effect that they look straight on the hull.
> 
> Of course, you only have to line off one half of the hull. The other half is exactly the same, just flipped, so your measurements are the same on each side.
> 
> The first step for me was to measure the length of each station from keel to sheer (bottom to top) and divide by the number of planks I'll be putting on (seven). I then marked off the location for each plank edge for each station.
> 
> Once this is done, the next step is to run a batten along these marks to make sure the curve is fair. It's more important that the curves are fair, rather than the planks being of equal width at each station.
> 
> To do the lining off, Mr. Simmons recommends a single batten method, in which you determine the position and curve of each plank as you go along, for each plank. Another method is to line off all of your planks at once using battens for each plank. I decided to try lining off all planks at once so that I could get a better feeling for how the planking would look. Of course, I can still use the single batten method later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the final result with all battens. I still have to make some adjustments at the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now! Next step will be spiling and getting out the planks!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 9/30/09 - 10/4/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 74.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 142 days (4 months 19 days)


very nice looking design.


----------



## dustyal

mattd said:


> *Stem to Keel and Lining Off*
> 
> Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides.
> 
> *Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel*
> 
> The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3"x1"x3/8") as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the after picture. This was done on both sides of course. Took about 3 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lining Off*
> 
> According to Walter Simmons, the architect of Sunshine (the model I'm building), Lining off is the "process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull". This needs to be done to determine the shapes for the planks, which are actually quite curvy. However, if I do it right, the planks will have an effect that they look straight on the hull.
> 
> Of course, you only have to line off one half of the hull. The other half is exactly the same, just flipped, so your measurements are the same on each side.
> 
> The first step for me was to measure the length of each station from keel to sheer (bottom to top) and divide by the number of planks I'll be putting on (seven). I then marked off the location for each plank edge for each station.
> 
> Once this is done, the next step is to run a batten along these marks to make sure the curve is fair. It's more important that the curves are fair, rather than the planks being of equal width at each station.
> 
> To do the lining off, Mr. Simmons recommends a single batten method, in which you determine the position and curve of each plank as you go along, for each plank. Another method is to line off all of your planks at once using battens for each plank. I decided to try lining off all planks at once so that I could get a better feeling for how the planking would look. Of course, I can still use the single batten method later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the final result with all battens. I still have to make some adjustments at the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now! Next step will be spiling and getting out the planks!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 9/30/09 - 10/4/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 74.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 142 days (4 months 19 days)


great blog… keep it going. Look like the design will be able to handle surf…


----------



## Bruce

mattd said:


> *Stem to Keel and Lining Off*
> 
> Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides.
> 
> *Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel*
> 
> The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3"x1"x3/8") as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the after picture. This was done on both sides of course. Took about 3 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lining Off*
> 
> According to Walter Simmons, the architect of Sunshine (the model I'm building), Lining off is the "process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull". This needs to be done to determine the shapes for the planks, which are actually quite curvy. However, if I do it right, the planks will have an effect that they look straight on the hull.
> 
> Of course, you only have to line off one half of the hull. The other half is exactly the same, just flipped, so your measurements are the same on each side.
> 
> The first step for me was to measure the length of each station from keel to sheer (bottom to top) and divide by the number of planks I'll be putting on (seven). I then marked off the location for each plank edge for each station.
> 
> Once this is done, the next step is to run a batten along these marks to make sure the curve is fair. It's more important that the curves are fair, rather than the planks being of equal width at each station.
> 
> To do the lining off, Mr. Simmons recommends a single batten method, in which you determine the position and curve of each plank as you go along, for each plank. Another method is to line off all of your planks at once using battens for each plank. I decided to try lining off all planks at once so that I could get a better feeling for how the planking would look. Of course, I can still use the single batten method later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the final result with all battens. I still have to make some adjustments at the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now! Next step will be spiling and getting out the planks!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 9/30/09 - 10/4/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 74.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 142 days (4 months 19 days)


I see that the spacing of the planks on the stem is not equal. Will they be later adjusted or if not how did you arrive at their current locations? 
AWESOME blog, I check every day to see how it is coming. I will also print out all of your entries so that when I start my Sunshine I will reference what you wrote. Keep up the great work!!
Bruce


----------



## stefang

mattd said:


> *Stem to Keel and Lining Off*
> 
> Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides.
> 
> *Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel*
> 
> The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3"x1"x3/8") as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the after picture. This was done on both sides of course. Took about 3 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lining Off*
> 
> According to Walter Simmons, the architect of Sunshine (the model I'm building), Lining off is the "process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull". This needs to be done to determine the shapes for the planks, which are actually quite curvy. However, if I do it right, the planks will have an effect that they look straight on the hull.
> 
> Of course, you only have to line off one half of the hull. The other half is exactly the same, just flipped, so your measurements are the same on each side.
> 
> The first step for me was to measure the length of each station from keel to sheer (bottom to top) and divide by the number of planks I'll be putting on (seven). I then marked off the location for each plank edge for each station.
> 
> Once this is done, the next step is to run a batten along these marks to make sure the curve is fair. It's more important that the curves are fair, rather than the planks being of equal width at each station.
> 
> To do the lining off, Mr. Simmons recommends a single batten method, in which you determine the position and curve of each plank as you go along, for each plank. Another method is to line off all of your planks at once using battens for each plank. I decided to try lining off all planks at once so that I could get a better feeling for how the planking would look. Of course, I can still use the single batten method later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the final result with all battens. I still have to make some adjustments at the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now! Next step will be spiling and getting out the planks!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 9/30/09 - 10/4/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 74.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 142 days (4 months 19 days)


I always wanted to build a boat, but never did and never will, but it sure is fun to watch you do it. It looks great. Can't wait to see the finished product. Thanks for taking us along.


----------



## mattd

mattd said:


> *Stem to Keel and Lining Off*
> 
> Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides.
> 
> *Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel*
> 
> The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3"x1"x3/8") as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the after picture. This was done on both sides of course. Took about 3 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lining Off*
> 
> According to Walter Simmons, the architect of Sunshine (the model I'm building), Lining off is the "process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull". This needs to be done to determine the shapes for the planks, which are actually quite curvy. However, if I do it right, the planks will have an effect that they look straight on the hull.
> 
> Of course, you only have to line off one half of the hull. The other half is exactly the same, just flipped, so your measurements are the same on each side.
> 
> The first step for me was to measure the length of each station from keel to sheer (bottom to top) and divide by the number of planks I'll be putting on (seven). I then marked off the location for each plank edge for each station.
> 
> Once this is done, the next step is to run a batten along these marks to make sure the curve is fair. It's more important that the curves are fair, rather than the planks being of equal width at each station.
> 
> To do the lining off, Mr. Simmons recommends a single batten method, in which you determine the position and curve of each plank as you go along, for each plank. Another method is to line off all of your planks at once using battens for each plank. I decided to try lining off all planks at once so that I could get a better feeling for how the planking would look. Of course, I can still use the single batten method later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the final result with all battens. I still have to make some adjustments at the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now! Next step will be spiling and getting out the planks!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 9/30/09 - 10/4/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 74.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 142 days (4 months 19 days)


Bruce - Actually, since posting this entry, I've been thinking a lot about the uneven spacing of the planks on the stem. More or less, the odd spacing is a natural result of the battens following a fair curve along the entire length of the boat. The battens are perfectly spaced at each stations, but I allowed the battens to follow a fair curve until they terminated into the stem, wherever they "felt" like it. If I force them into even spacing along them stem, the planks would sort of bend out of curve and look sloppy towards the stem.

There is obviously a solution to this. I've looked at a lot of lapstrakes with even planking at the stem. Although some have wider garboards and sheer planks, the widths -appear- even from stem to stern.

The solution I think is some acceptable variation in plank widths so that the transom and stem plank widths are spaced evenly AND the plank edges follow fair curves. Mr. Simmons has a good article on it that I'm still trying to fully understand:

http://www.duck-trap.com/building.html


----------



## mattd

mattd said:


> *Stem to Keel and Lining Off*
> 
> Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides.
> 
> *Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel*
> 
> The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3"x1"x3/8") as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the after picture. This was done on both sides of course. Took about 3 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lining Off*
> 
> According to Walter Simmons, the architect of Sunshine (the model I'm building), Lining off is the "process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull". This needs to be done to determine the shapes for the planks, which are actually quite curvy. However, if I do it right, the planks will have an effect that they look straight on the hull.
> 
> Of course, you only have to line off one half of the hull. The other half is exactly the same, just flipped, so your measurements are the same on each side.
> 
> The first step for me was to measure the length of each station from keel to sheer (bottom to top) and divide by the number of planks I'll be putting on (seven). I then marked off the location for each plank edge for each station.
> 
> Once this is done, the next step is to run a batten along these marks to make sure the curve is fair. It's more important that the curves are fair, rather than the planks being of equal width at each station.
> 
> To do the lining off, Mr. Simmons recommends a single batten method, in which you determine the position and curve of each plank as you go along, for each plank. Another method is to line off all of your planks at once using battens for each plank. I decided to try lining off all planks at once so that I could get a better feeling for how the planking would look. Of course, I can still use the single batten method later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the final result with all battens. I still have to make some adjustments at the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now! Next step will be spiling and getting out the planks!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 9/30/09 - 10/4/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 74.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 142 days (4 months 19 days)


DaveR - Great suggestion. I ordered this book. Thanks.


----------



## rustedknuckles

mattd said:


> *Stem to Keel and Lining Off*
> 
> Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides.
> 
> *Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel*
> 
> The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3"x1"x3/8") as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the after picture. This was done on both sides of course. Took about 3 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Lining Off*
> 
> According to Walter Simmons, the architect of Sunshine (the model I'm building), Lining off is the "process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull". This needs to be done to determine the shapes for the planks, which are actually quite curvy. However, if I do it right, the planks will have an effect that they look straight on the hull.
> 
> Of course, you only have to line off one half of the hull. The other half is exactly the same, just flipped, so your measurements are the same on each side.
> 
> The first step for me was to measure the length of each station from keel to sheer (bottom to top) and divide by the number of planks I'll be putting on (seven). I then marked off the location for each plank edge for each station.
> 
> Once this is done, the next step is to run a batten along these marks to make sure the curve is fair. It's more important that the curves are fair, rather than the planks being of equal width at each station.
> 
> To do the lining off, Mr. Simmons recommends a single batten method, in which you determine the position and curve of each plank as you go along, for each plank. Another method is to line off all of your planks at once using battens for each plank. I decided to try lining off all planks at once so that I could get a better feeling for how the planking would look. Of course, I can still use the single batten method later on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the final result with all battens. I still have to make some adjustments at the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now! Next step will be spiling and getting out the planks!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 5/29/09 - 6/8/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 6/14/09 - 6/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 6/25/09 - 6/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 6/30/09 - 7/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 7/14/09 - 7/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 7/22/09 - 7/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 7/30/09 - 8/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 8/16/09 - 9/5/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 9/28/09 - 9/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 9/30/09 - 10/4/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 74.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 142 days (4 months 19 days)


One note of caution when laying in your battens, try to do both sides of the boat at the same time. What can happen if you don't is you can actually twist the frames. I've built many traditional boats and have seen it happen. Great Blog by the way!


----------



## mattd

*Lining Off - Second Attempt*

I finished lining off the planks today. Lining off is the process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull. My first attempt at this didn't go so well. Thanks to some suggestions from some fellow lumberjocks, I took the time to learn more about the process and I'm much happier with the results. The book, Building Small Boats by Greg Rossel, as recommended by DaveR, is an exceptional resource and I basically used the process in the lining off chapter.

*Results*

First, here are my final results of the lining off. The temporary battens running down the hull are the outlines for each of the 7 planks.










*What makes a good lapstrake*

It turns out there are many considerations that go into making a lapstrake hull a nice thing to look at. Of course, the shapes and edges of the planks are high on the list. After a lot of research, I settled on 4 key aesthetic qualities that I want in the planking. It wasn't until I had a handle on these "rules" that I felt that I could do this properly. In order of importance:


Perfectly even plank widths along the transom and stem, except for the sheer (top) plank which will be made 1.5" wider. 
The effect of the rubrail (outwale) on the sheer plank will make the sheer plank appear thinner, so I've added the width of the rubrail to the sheer plank.
All plank edges should follow a smooth fair curve with no dips or fishtails, etc. 
The variation of the average widths of the planks above the garboard along the entire length of the boat should be minimized as much as reasonably possible. This is accomplished by making the garboard wider in the middle.

*The Process*

The process starts with marking out the plank widths at even intervals along the transom and stem, keeping in mind that the sheer plank will be 1.5" wider to compensate for the rubrail.

Next, the bottom most plank, the garboard, is lined off using a long batten to shape a curve between the fixed marks on the transom and sterm. The curve is made by eye. I tried to create a nice flowing curve along the length while maximizing the width of the garboard (within reason) at the center stations. The width in the center will help make the planks above the garboard narrower.

Once the garboard is lined off, it's position is marked on all stations and a long temporary batten is tacked on to represent the plank edge. This leaves 6 remaining planks. The next step is to mark out the 6 remaining intervals on the stations. Greg Rossel suggests using a paper tape and a diminishing device to mark out the intervals. First, the paper is wrapped around a station mold starting from the top of the garboard. A mark is placed on the paper strip where the bottom of the rubrail will go. So, this gives me a measurement on the paper strip that represents the top of garboard and bottom of rubrail. Next, I just need to mark out even intervals between these points. Sure.. it would be possible to just divide the measurement by 6 and mark off the intervals on the tape/station mould, but a cooler way to do it is with a diminishing device, a technique that is certainly not confined to just boatbuilding.










*Diminishing Device*

The diminishing device is just a drawing of an isosceles triangle. The base is divided at evenly spaced intervals and lines are drawn from those divisions to the apex. It can be used to perfectly mark out evenly spaced intervals along any length without the use of any math. So, this is helpful to mark out even intervals at each station (especially helpful as I had to do this process 3 times). The paper strip (with the length of the station marked on it) is fitted to a diminishing device and marks are transferred to the strip. The strip taken back to the station mold and the marks are transferred to the station mold. There are 2 devices overlapping below, one for 7 planks (for the stem and transom) and the shorter one for 6 planks (for the stations).










*Planks at the stem*

After all the stations are marked, battens are tacked onto the marks. The battens are sighted to make sure they follow a nice fair curve.

I think I've got it this time. Nice evenly spaced lines that flow into the stem.










*Final Results*

Does the photo below look a little odd? Well. It's a picture I took looking up from the floor upside down. This is what the boat will look like when it's flipped over. It was helpful to do this and get a confirmation on the layout. I'm very happy with this. Nice evenly spaced planks. Easy flow into the stem. Did the sheer plank right. I found so many ways to do this wrong, so it's great that it looks -right- finally! (at least to me and in my shop)










And that's it for now!

*Materials List:*

None for this step!

*Project Materials Summary:*


Plans and Book: $60
Lofting Supplies: $47.88
Mold Supplies: $36
Strongback Lumber: $33
Transom Materials: $22
Stem and Knee: $47
Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325

- Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88

*Labor Hours Summary:*


05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours 
06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours 
07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 80.5 Hours
- Time since starting project: 170 days (5 months 17 days)


----------



## matt1970

mattd said:


> *Lining Off - Second Attempt*
> 
> I finished lining off the planks today. Lining off is the process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull. My first attempt at this didn't go so well. Thanks to some suggestions from some fellow lumberjocks, I took the time to learn more about the process and I'm much happier with the results. The book, Building Small Boats by Greg Rossel, as recommended by DaveR, is an exceptional resource and I basically used the process in the lining off chapter.
> 
> *Results*
> 
> First, here are my final results of the lining off. The temporary battens running down the hull are the outlines for each of the 7 planks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What makes a good lapstrake*
> 
> It turns out there are many considerations that go into making a lapstrake hull a nice thing to look at. Of course, the shapes and edges of the planks are high on the list. After a lot of research, I settled on 4 key aesthetic qualities that I want in the planking. It wasn't until I had a handle on these "rules" that I felt that I could do this properly. In order of importance:
> 
> 
> Perfectly even plank widths along the transom and stem, except for the sheer (top) plank which will be made 1.5" wider.
> The effect of the rubrail (outwale) on the sheer plank will make the sheer plank appear thinner, so I've added the width of the rubrail to the sheer plank.
> All plank edges should follow a smooth fair curve with no dips or fishtails, etc.
> The variation of the average widths of the planks above the garboard along the entire length of the boat should be minimized as much as reasonably possible. This is accomplished by making the garboard wider in the middle.
> 
> *The Process*
> 
> The process starts with marking out the plank widths at even intervals along the transom and stem, keeping in mind that the sheer plank will be 1.5" wider to compensate for the rubrail.
> 
> Next, the bottom most plank, the garboard, is lined off using a long batten to shape a curve between the fixed marks on the transom and sterm. The curve is made by eye. I tried to create a nice flowing curve along the length while maximizing the width of the garboard (within reason) at the center stations. The width in the center will help make the planks above the garboard narrower.
> 
> Once the garboard is lined off, it's position is marked on all stations and a long temporary batten is tacked on to represent the plank edge. This leaves 6 remaining planks. The next step is to mark out the 6 remaining intervals on the stations. Greg Rossel suggests using a paper tape and a diminishing device to mark out the intervals. First, the paper is wrapped around a station mold starting from the top of the garboard. A mark is placed on the paper strip where the bottom of the rubrail will go. So, this gives me a measurement on the paper strip that represents the top of garboard and bottom of rubrail. Next, I just need to mark out even intervals between these points. Sure.. it would be possible to just divide the measurement by 6 and mark off the intervals on the tape/station mould, but a cooler way to do it is with a diminishing device, a technique that is certainly not confined to just boatbuilding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Diminishing Device*
> 
> The diminishing device is just a drawing of an isosceles triangle. The base is divided at evenly spaced intervals and lines are drawn from those divisions to the apex. It can be used to perfectly mark out evenly spaced intervals along any length without the use of any math. So, this is helpful to mark out even intervals at each station (especially helpful as I had to do this process 3 times). The paper strip (with the length of the station marked on it) is fitted to a diminishing device and marks are transferred to the strip. The strip taken back to the station mold and the marks are transferred to the station mold. There are 2 devices overlapping below, one for 7 planks (for the stem and transom) and the shorter one for 6 planks (for the stations).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planks at the stem*
> 
> After all the stations are marked, battens are tacked onto the marks. The battens are sighted to make sure they follow a nice fair curve.
> 
> I think I've got it this time. Nice evenly spaced lines that flow into the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Final Results*
> 
> Does the photo below look a little odd? Well. It's a picture I took looking up from the floor upside down. This is what the boat will look like when it's flipped over. It was helpful to do this and get a confirmation on the layout. I'm very happy with this. Nice evenly spaced planks. Easy flow into the stem. Did the sheer plank right. I found so many ways to do this wrong, so it's great that it looks -right- finally! (at least to me and in my shop)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 80.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 170 days (5 months 17 days)


that last picture is really cool…it is really coming along MATT!!! awesome!!!


----------



## patron

mattd said:


> *Lining Off - Second Attempt*
> 
> I finished lining off the planks today. Lining off is the process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull. My first attempt at this didn't go so well. Thanks to some suggestions from some fellow lumberjocks, I took the time to learn more about the process and I'm much happier with the results. The book, Building Small Boats by Greg Rossel, as recommended by DaveR, is an exceptional resource and I basically used the process in the lining off chapter.
> 
> *Results*
> 
> First, here are my final results of the lining off. The temporary battens running down the hull are the outlines for each of the 7 planks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What makes a good lapstrake*
> 
> It turns out there are many considerations that go into making a lapstrake hull a nice thing to look at. Of course, the shapes and edges of the planks are high on the list. After a lot of research, I settled on 4 key aesthetic qualities that I want in the planking. It wasn't until I had a handle on these "rules" that I felt that I could do this properly. In order of importance:
> 
> 
> Perfectly even plank widths along the transom and stem, except for the sheer (top) plank which will be made 1.5" wider.
> The effect of the rubrail (outwale) on the sheer plank will make the sheer plank appear thinner, so I've added the width of the rubrail to the sheer plank.
> All plank edges should follow a smooth fair curve with no dips or fishtails, etc.
> The variation of the average widths of the planks above the garboard along the entire length of the boat should be minimized as much as reasonably possible. This is accomplished by making the garboard wider in the middle.
> 
> *The Process*
> 
> The process starts with marking out the plank widths at even intervals along the transom and stem, keeping in mind that the sheer plank will be 1.5" wider to compensate for the rubrail.
> 
> Next, the bottom most plank, the garboard, is lined off using a long batten to shape a curve between the fixed marks on the transom and sterm. The curve is made by eye. I tried to create a nice flowing curve along the length while maximizing the width of the garboard (within reason) at the center stations. The width in the center will help make the planks above the garboard narrower.
> 
> Once the garboard is lined off, it's position is marked on all stations and a long temporary batten is tacked on to represent the plank edge. This leaves 6 remaining planks. The next step is to mark out the 6 remaining intervals on the stations. Greg Rossel suggests using a paper tape and a diminishing device to mark out the intervals. First, the paper is wrapped around a station mold starting from the top of the garboard. A mark is placed on the paper strip where the bottom of the rubrail will go. So, this gives me a measurement on the paper strip that represents the top of garboard and bottom of rubrail. Next, I just need to mark out even intervals between these points. Sure.. it would be possible to just divide the measurement by 6 and mark off the intervals on the tape/station mould, but a cooler way to do it is with a diminishing device, a technique that is certainly not confined to just boatbuilding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Diminishing Device*
> 
> The diminishing device is just a drawing of an isosceles triangle. The base is divided at evenly spaced intervals and lines are drawn from those divisions to the apex. It can be used to perfectly mark out evenly spaced intervals along any length without the use of any math. So, this is helpful to mark out even intervals at each station (especially helpful as I had to do this process 3 times). The paper strip (with the length of the station marked on it) is fitted to a diminishing device and marks are transferred to the strip. The strip taken back to the station mold and the marks are transferred to the station mold. There are 2 devices overlapping below, one for 7 planks (for the stem and transom) and the shorter one for 6 planks (for the stations).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planks at the stem*
> 
> After all the stations are marked, battens are tacked onto the marks. The battens are sighted to make sure they follow a nice fair curve.
> 
> I think I've got it this time. Nice evenly spaced lines that flow into the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Final Results*
> 
> Does the photo below look a little odd? Well. It's a picture I took looking up from the floor upside down. This is what the boat will look like when it's flipped over. It was helpful to do this and get a confirmation on the layout. I'm very happy with this. Nice evenly spaced planks. Easy flow into the stem. Did the sheer plank right. I found so many ways to do this wrong, so it's great that it looks -right- finally! (at least to me and in my shop)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 80.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 170 days (5 months 17 days)


looks real gwood !

exelent tutorial 
and event sheet ,

i can't wait to see your smile !


----------



## douginaz

mattd said:


> *Lining Off - Second Attempt*
> 
> I finished lining off the planks today. Lining off is the process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull. My first attempt at this didn't go so well. Thanks to some suggestions from some fellow lumberjocks, I took the time to learn more about the process and I'm much happier with the results. The book, Building Small Boats by Greg Rossel, as recommended by DaveR, is an exceptional resource and I basically used the process in the lining off chapter.
> 
> *Results*
> 
> First, here are my final results of the lining off. The temporary battens running down the hull are the outlines for each of the 7 planks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What makes a good lapstrake*
> 
> It turns out there are many considerations that go into making a lapstrake hull a nice thing to look at. Of course, the shapes and edges of the planks are high on the list. After a lot of research, I settled on 4 key aesthetic qualities that I want in the planking. It wasn't until I had a handle on these "rules" that I felt that I could do this properly. In order of importance:
> 
> 
> Perfectly even plank widths along the transom and stem, except for the sheer (top) plank which will be made 1.5" wider.
> The effect of the rubrail (outwale) on the sheer plank will make the sheer plank appear thinner, so I've added the width of the rubrail to the sheer plank.
> All plank edges should follow a smooth fair curve with no dips or fishtails, etc.
> The variation of the average widths of the planks above the garboard along the entire length of the boat should be minimized as much as reasonably possible. This is accomplished by making the garboard wider in the middle.
> 
> *The Process*
> 
> The process starts with marking out the plank widths at even intervals along the transom and stem, keeping in mind that the sheer plank will be 1.5" wider to compensate for the rubrail.
> 
> Next, the bottom most plank, the garboard, is lined off using a long batten to shape a curve between the fixed marks on the transom and sterm. The curve is made by eye. I tried to create a nice flowing curve along the length while maximizing the width of the garboard (within reason) at the center stations. The width in the center will help make the planks above the garboard narrower.
> 
> Once the garboard is lined off, it's position is marked on all stations and a long temporary batten is tacked on to represent the plank edge. This leaves 6 remaining planks. The next step is to mark out the 6 remaining intervals on the stations. Greg Rossel suggests using a paper tape and a diminishing device to mark out the intervals. First, the paper is wrapped around a station mold starting from the top of the garboard. A mark is placed on the paper strip where the bottom of the rubrail will go. So, this gives me a measurement on the paper strip that represents the top of garboard and bottom of rubrail. Next, I just need to mark out even intervals between these points. Sure.. it would be possible to just divide the measurement by 6 and mark off the intervals on the tape/station mould, but a cooler way to do it is with a diminishing device, a technique that is certainly not confined to just boatbuilding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Diminishing Device*
> 
> The diminishing device is just a drawing of an isosceles triangle. The base is divided at evenly spaced intervals and lines are drawn from those divisions to the apex. It can be used to perfectly mark out evenly spaced intervals along any length without the use of any math. So, this is helpful to mark out even intervals at each station (especially helpful as I had to do this process 3 times). The paper strip (with the length of the station marked on it) is fitted to a diminishing device and marks are transferred to the strip. The strip taken back to the station mold and the marks are transferred to the station mold. There are 2 devices overlapping below, one for 7 planks (for the stem and transom) and the shorter one for 6 planks (for the stations).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planks at the stem*
> 
> After all the stations are marked, battens are tacked onto the marks. The battens are sighted to make sure they follow a nice fair curve.
> 
> I think I've got it this time. Nice evenly spaced lines that flow into the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Final Results*
> 
> Does the photo below look a little odd? Well. It's a picture I took looking up from the floor upside down. This is what the boat will look like when it's flipped over. It was helpful to do this and get a confirmation on the layout. I'm very happy with this. Nice evenly spaced planks. Easy flow into the stem. Did the sheer plank right. I found so many ways to do this wrong, so it's great that it looks -right- finally! (at least to me and in my shop)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 80.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 170 days (5 months 17 days)


Thanks Matt - I can't tell you how much I look forward to your posts. I don't think I would ever tackle a project like this but it sure is fun following you. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into the presentation to help us mere mortals follow along. Next summer is just around the corner - are you going to get it wet then?
Later, 
Doug in AZ.


----------



## GaryK

mattd said:


> *Lining Off - Second Attempt*
> 
> I finished lining off the planks today. Lining off is the process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull. My first attempt at this didn't go so well. Thanks to some suggestions from some fellow lumberjocks, I took the time to learn more about the process and I'm much happier with the results. The book, Building Small Boats by Greg Rossel, as recommended by DaveR, is an exceptional resource and I basically used the process in the lining off chapter.
> 
> *Results*
> 
> First, here are my final results of the lining off. The temporary battens running down the hull are the outlines for each of the 7 planks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *What makes a good lapstrake*
> 
> It turns out there are many considerations that go into making a lapstrake hull a nice thing to look at. Of course, the shapes and edges of the planks are high on the list. After a lot of research, I settled on 4 key aesthetic qualities that I want in the planking. It wasn't until I had a handle on these "rules" that I felt that I could do this properly. In order of importance:
> 
> 
> Perfectly even plank widths along the transom and stem, except for the sheer (top) plank which will be made 1.5" wider.
> The effect of the rubrail (outwale) on the sheer plank will make the sheer plank appear thinner, so I've added the width of the rubrail to the sheer plank.
> All plank edges should follow a smooth fair curve with no dips or fishtails, etc.
> The variation of the average widths of the planks above the garboard along the entire length of the boat should be minimized as much as reasonably possible. This is accomplished by making the garboard wider in the middle.
> 
> *The Process*
> 
> The process starts with marking out the plank widths at even intervals along the transom and stem, keeping in mind that the sheer plank will be 1.5" wider to compensate for the rubrail.
> 
> Next, the bottom most plank, the garboard, is lined off using a long batten to shape a curve between the fixed marks on the transom and sterm. The curve is made by eye. I tried to create a nice flowing curve along the length while maximizing the width of the garboard (within reason) at the center stations. The width in the center will help make the planks above the garboard narrower.
> 
> Once the garboard is lined off, it's position is marked on all stations and a long temporary batten is tacked on to represent the plank edge. This leaves 6 remaining planks. The next step is to mark out the 6 remaining intervals on the stations. Greg Rossel suggests using a paper tape and a diminishing device to mark out the intervals. First, the paper is wrapped around a station mold starting from the top of the garboard. A mark is placed on the paper strip where the bottom of the rubrail will go. So, this gives me a measurement on the paper strip that represents the top of garboard and bottom of rubrail. Next, I just need to mark out even intervals between these points. Sure.. it would be possible to just divide the measurement by 6 and mark off the intervals on the tape/station mould, but a cooler way to do it is with a diminishing device, a technique that is certainly not confined to just boatbuilding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Diminishing Device*
> 
> The diminishing device is just a drawing of an isosceles triangle. The base is divided at evenly spaced intervals and lines are drawn from those divisions to the apex. It can be used to perfectly mark out evenly spaced intervals along any length without the use of any math. So, this is helpful to mark out even intervals at each station (especially helpful as I had to do this process 3 times). The paper strip (with the length of the station marked on it) is fitted to a diminishing device and marks are transferred to the strip. The strip taken back to the station mold and the marks are transferred to the station mold. There are 2 devices overlapping below, one for 7 planks (for the stem and transom) and the shorter one for 6 planks (for the stations).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Planks at the stem*
> 
> After all the stations are marked, battens are tacked onto the marks. The battens are sighted to make sure they follow a nice fair curve.
> 
> I think I've got it this time. Nice evenly spaced lines that flow into the stem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Final Results*
> 
> Does the photo below look a little odd? Well. It's a picture I took looking up from the floor upside down. This is what the boat will look like when it's flipped over. It was helpful to do this and get a confirmation on the layout. I'm very happy with this. Nice evenly spaced planks. Easy flow into the stem. Did the sheer plank right. I found so many ways to do this wrong, so it's great that it looks -right- finally! (at least to me and in my shop)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's it for now!
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 80.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 170 days (5 months 17 days)


I imagine you are taking some time off from your boat during Christmas.

Great job so far. Looking forward to more!


----------



## mattd

*The First Plank*

*The First Garboard Plank*

The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.










The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.

Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.










To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.

The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.










The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!










*Materials List:*

None for this step!

*Project Materials Summary:*


Plans and Book: $60
Lofting Supplies: $47.88
Mold Supplies: $36
Strongback Lumber: $33
Transom Materials: $22
Stem and Knee: $47
Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325

- Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88

*Labor Hours Summary:*


05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours 
06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours 
07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours

- Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
- Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


----------



## matt1970

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


wow…that sounds really tough!!!! will the other planks be as tough???

I am going sailing saturday--for the first time!!! (weather permitting)


----------



## mattd

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


Hey Matt!

I think the rest of the planks will be much easier. It was fitting into the rabbet which was tough. Now the planks overlap each other and the edges are smooth curves.

Have a great time sailing! It will be at least a few more months before the ice melts on the lakes here!

BTW - Looks like you're getting set up to start your build! I'm looking forward to it!


----------



## GaryC

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


That's something I've always dreamed about building but will likely never try


----------



## a1Jim

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


Looks very interesting.


----------



## Ecocandle

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


That is a scary and cool project. I am a decade away from trying something like that, plus or minus 2 hours. Thanks for sharing the project with us.


----------



## OutPutter

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


When I think of the Vikings making boats to cross oceans, I'm in awe of the skill required. When I see how difficult it is even to this day to build a boat, it just increases my respect for those that came before and those who carry on that tradition. Thanks for the glimpse Matt.

Best,


----------



## hunter71

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


Looks like fun. How big is your door leading outside?


----------



## JAGWAH

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


That's a mean thought *Hunter,* but a very important one.


----------



## mattd

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


Hunter - Did you mean to ask how big *will * the door leading outside be? Thankfully.. and unusually.. it did occur to me to take some measurements before I choose my plans. Door=~34", max height=~30".


----------



## sras

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


This is a fun project to follow! Thanks for sharing.


----------



## CaptainSkully

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


I'm going sailing Saturday too (weather permitting)! What a coincidence 

I love this blog MattD. I'm glad you're back on track.


----------



## Argyllshire

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


I love this! You are doing great, keep it up.


----------



## stefang

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


Great blog. I've always wanted to build a boat, but haven't bothered because my wife doesn't like the water. But it is fun to watch you do it. Looking forward to the next progress report.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


keep up your head it is a toff project but you allso (i think) choose the most difficult way of building
kravelbuilding is the tuffest but allso the most beuityful boat in the sea when goes thrugh the waves

I´m looking forward to see more

Dennis


----------



## Bruce

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


Just curious if the problems you had in bending the first plank would have to do with using 3/8" planking. It seems like most of the plans I have seen use 1/4" solid planking or ply.
Bruce


----------



## Jim1963

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


Been reading Wooden Boat magazine for a few months now. Looking forward to building my skill set enough to try some of the cool boats they have plans for. I liive in an area with lots of water so a boat would be fun and useful.


----------



## mcdrowton

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


Fantastic project Matt! Can't wait to see more.


----------



## matt1970

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


i have done NO work on my boat in 6 weeks--so I hate to ask…but any progress on your boat…saw your stuffed animal cage (loved it) and thought I would check here…

Hope all is well…


----------



## mattd

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


Hey Matt. Thanks for checking in. I was thinking about your project recently and checked it out tonight. Looks like you're making great progress! Sorry I haven't been able to follow along much. Other than the 2nd row of planks and some research into sails, I haven't done much this summer on the boat or with any projects until recently. Bothers me sometimes, but no rush really. So busy with the family and work, but I should have some good shoptime and LJ time soon. Everything is set up and ready for more planking! Keep building!


----------



## GaryK

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


Hey Matt!

Anymore progress lately?


----------



## AdamM

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


Hello Matt,

I've read all your posts on this boat and am in aw.
I'm hoping to start building this same vessel soon and came across your series while searching for info on it.

I've now reached the end of your series and am wondering if you ever finished her, and if so, do you have more photos of your build?

Thanks,
Adam


----------



## SemperSailor

mattd said:


> *The First Plank*
> 
> *The First Garboard Plank*
> 
> The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I've gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I've put in a few hours here and there, but I've taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I'm exciting to be focused again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It's a tough plank because it bends almost 80 degrees to fit into the stem in the front and has to be steam bent. I cracked 2 of them and the others weren't right. To get it right, I first made a 1/8" template plank (so that it would bend easily without steaming it), so that I could trace the template onto real plank stock.
> 
> Once secured in place, I scribed the template plank using a washer and a pencil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the template, I used a technique called spiling which uses a compass to transfer the basic shape of the keel rabbit to the template. I then got a better fit by scribing the template against the rabbit. Normally, you wouldn't need to bother with templates and scribing. Long story short, my keel is not entirely a fair curve (where it meets the skeg). Fair curves are required for good spiling results. However, the TOP of the first plank IS a fair curve, so I should be able to build the remaining planks by spiling only (no templates). I'll document spiling in my next blog.
> 
> The template was then used to trace the plank shape onto 3/8" planking stock which was cut out on the bandsaw. Then, gains were then cut into the ends of the plank. I used a Stanley #90 rabbet plane and a straight edge. The gains allow the planks to overlap and fit into each other at the ends so that they have a flush appearance at each end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plank has to "cool" overnight to keep it's form. Next, I'll screw the plank down and do the plank on the other side. From there, I have 6 more planks to go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Materials List:*
> 
> None for this step!
> 
> *Project Materials Summary:*
> 
> 
> Plans and Book: $60
> Lofting Supplies: $47.88
> Mold Supplies: $36
> Strongback Lumber: $33
> Transom Materials: $22
> Stem and Knee: $47
> Keelson, Keel, Skeg and Sternpost: $97
> Silicon Bronze Hardware: $225
> Larch Planking and Copper Rivets: $325
> 
> - Total Project Expenses so far: $892.88
> 
> *Labor Hours Summary:*
> 
> 
> 05/29/09 - 06/08/09: Lofting - 12 Hours
> 06/14/09 - 06/20/09: Building Molds: 5 Hours
> 06/25/09 - 06/27/09: Building Strongback: 7.5 Hours
> 06/30/09 - 07/13/09: Building Transom: 6 Hours
> 07/14/09 - 07/20/09: Stem Lofting Detail: 3 Hours
> 07/22/09 - 07/29/09: Stem and Knee Cutout: 4 Hours
> 07/30/09 - 08/16/09: Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost: 21 Hours
> 08/16/09 - 09/05/09: Attaching Transom: 3 Hours
> 09/28/09 - 09/29/09: Cutting Stem and Keel Rabbet, 9 Hours
> 09/30/09 - 10/04/09: Stem to Keel and Lining Off, 4 Hours
> 11/14/09 - 11/15/09: Lining Off, 6 Hours
> 11/16/09 - 02/04/10: Garboard Plank, 20 hours
> 
> - Total Project Labor Hours so far: 100.5 Hours
> - Time since starting project: 251 days (8 months, 6 days)


Totally inspiring. I just bought the plans…


----------

