# Ridgid R4512 Wooden MLCS Router Table Extension Help



## MolokMot (Jan 11, 2012)

Hey all, I am looking for some help on this topic.

For all of you with the R4512, craftsman 21833, etc.

I bought a router table extension for my table saw and I am not sure the best way to mount it to the table. It seems that the table itself is thicker than the rails on my TS and it also has the supports underneath. (see picture in the link) Router Table

I would really like to mount this on the right side of my blade in the open space. The table seems to be way too big for the left side. Anyone see any issues with it on the right side?

I am newer to wood working, but I have a decent amount of tools, I just need a little direction on how the heck to make this work.

Modifications Needed: The router table has plastic edge banding that makes it a little wider than it should be, so I am going to need to flush trim the sides so it is exactly 27" and will fit between my rails.

Any help would be really appreciated and I will eventually turn this into a blog to explain to other how to do this with pictures and hopefully video if I have the capability soon.

Thank you all in advance.
MolokMot


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

If it is anything like the bench dog one, mount it on the left. It should have holes were it attaches to both the cast iron center section and the fence rails. They may not match up. In that case you are in for some drilling.

The bench dogs one will only fit to the left of the blade on the R4512 without drilling into cast iron (either the insert or the saw). In addition, you want to attach this to the CAST IRON on your saw, which means whatever side you choose, the steel extension comes out. With that extension out, you should have plenty of room and just a little overhang.

Also, with the steel extension in place, that "open" space on the right side is only 27" x 14 5/8". I ended up returning the bench dogs set up in favor of a custom made table that will work with my Incra LS-TS/Wonderfence combo (when it finally gets delivered at the end of Aug). Again, without drilling the bench dogs cast iron insert WILL NOT fit to the right of the blade


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

i'm not sure where your problems are. those router tables are 27" wide and are made to fit between the rails of most TSs. there shouldn't be a need to trim anything. by "right side" i assume you mean when viewing the saw from the operator's position? assumng the rails on a 4512 slide over the heads of the bolts that hold them to the CI table top, that same channel in the rail(s) can be used for bolts that hold pieces/sections of angle iron to the rails. one leg of the angle iron is against the inside surface of the rails, the "L" portion of the angle iron is then parallel to the ground and would now be avaialble for several types of mounting methods for attaching the router table to the angle iron. kind of like this (look at the 6th post down in this thread):

http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=118952


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## MolokMot (Jan 11, 2012)

Lumber Joe, perhaps I need to be a little more descriptive.

This is a wooden router table from mlcswoodworking.com. No holes are provided like the cast iron table tops.

The thickness of the router table top, is a little thicker than my cast iron tablesaw top. Under the router table top is a wooden box as you can see from the picture below.

The holes on the cast iron table saw top are threaded bolts with no nuts and no clearance underneath. If you are using the steal table that came with the saw, you screw them in from the under side of the steel wing. Since the wooden router table top is so thick, there is no way to screw anything into the cast iron part of the table saw. So the only solution would be to somehow add some sort of angle brackets.


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## MolokMot (Jan 11, 2012)

Toolie,

*Size*:
You are correct, the table is supposed to be 27" wide. If you look at the picture posted above, the router table is mounted to a wooden frame. I guess this is for support. That frame is exactly 27" wide, perfect. The only problem is that the table top has plastic edge banding that sticks out about 1/16th on either side making it a little too thick, so that needs to be flush trimmed to match the frame on the bottom.

*Mounting*: I guess I would have to tap bolt holes into the sides of the table so that they could slip into the slots in the rails. I was just wondering that since this is an MDF top, and I tap the sides so that bolts can be screwed in, would that be enough support or would they strip out of the holes? The other issue with that is I would not be able to tighten the bolts from underneath like is normally done in the steel wings, since they would be tapped directly into the MDF router table top. This option would only work on the front rail. The back rail would have to be tapped in just the right location to be able to bolt it from the outside.

*Other Options*: I could cut dadoes into the sides of the table in order to mount the "L" brackets you mentioned. I was just really hoping to find someone who has done this and has pictures so they could give me the best advice.

This picture is of the TS before I removed the steel wing last night. I am planning on removing it and mounting the table directly against the cast iron ts top.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

The link you posted brought up a cast iron extension at first, Sorry! That seems like a waste. Just get a router plate and make one. There are actually instructions in the rigid manual on how to fill the hole, AND they even included the hardware to screw it in.


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## MolokMot (Jan 11, 2012)

Lumberjoe,

Well, I already bought the table and I don't think I can take it back since it bought it out of the box two months ago. Plus it comes with a sweet fence and everything. So I would really like to make this work. Someone out there has to have done this already since this is alot like most of the wooden router tables out there.

I am whipping up a quick sketch-up model that I will post. Maybe someone will have some ideas from that.

Thanks for the help though!


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

One tip I can give you that may work (which I will be doing) is to flip that bar upside down. You will have about a half inch of clearance between that bar and the top of the table. You can cut a dado for the table to fit over it. Leave the steel extension so you have the 3 attachment points. You can then drill a few holes in the back of the fence for some more attachment points, and put some legs on the extension.


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## jmaichel (May 22, 2010)

lumberjoe,
I take it you have the R4512 with the benchdog CI router insert. How do you like that setup? Did you stick with the stock fence? I am thinking about getting the R4512, with Benchdog CI insert but replacing the stock fence with a Delta T2 fence. Also what router are you using?

James


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

No, I bought it but decided to go in a different direction. To answer your questions:

Stock fence? It sucks IMO. I ordered the Incra LS-TS 32. I was thinking of the T2, but you have to drill holes. Also that incra fence is expensive, but absolutely amazing and would be an upgrade on any table saw I ever purchased

Router: I have several, but in the table is a Porter Cable 7518

The incra LS-TS system can be combined with the incra wonderfence for router tables (also AMAZING! Don't look it up if you don't want to spend 550$ on a fence. If you watch some videos, you'll really want one)

This is why I am not using the benchdogs insert. Without drilling and tapping cast iron, the benchdogs has to go on the left side. I want most of my rip capacity on the right side, so when I mount the LS-TS, it won't reach as far as I need it to on the left for the router.

If you go with the T2 setup, you are going to have to drill some holes in it. It's not a huge deal and if you are at all mechanical, you can figure it out. Just don't expect out-of-the-box fit and detailed instructions. I would also recommend that benchdogs insert if you keep the stock fence or do something like the T2. It's nice, adds some cast iron to your saw, and easy to install.


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## MolokMot (Jan 11, 2012)

Hey all,

Here is the sketchup model with the tablesaw, stock fence and I added the MLCS Router Table Extension. This might give you a better idea of what I am up against.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=7800a4186a045863cb4ec03bedc36310&prevstart=0

Regards,
MolokMot


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## nwbusa (Feb 21, 2012)

The stock fence isn't the best, but it's not bad once you get it set up-mine locks down square every time, and the t-slots in the fence are handy for attaching auxiliary fences, jigs, etc. Maybe I got lucky with mine.

Anyway, to the OP-the MLCS table looks to be about 1.5" thick. If so, you want to use your router and hog out some room for the bolts to attach to the front and rear rails, as well as the side of the steel wing. Here's a not very good picture (sorry) of how I mounted my shop-made table to the R4512:










Then your table will end up sitting flush with the TS table:










You should be able to loosen all of the front and rear rail bolts, and slide the rails down to accommodate the size of the router table. You might also try removing the steel bar at the end, and seeing if the router table will fit in there without it. Once you tighten the rail bolts, it might be enough to allow the fence to move freely along the rails. Just a thought before you start trimming your new table.

Good luck!


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## MolokMot (Jan 11, 2012)

nwbusa,

Thank you for the pictures! I really appreciate it.

The table has a 1 3/8" thick top as well as a frame underneither that is an additional 1 1/8th

I am wondering if the top will be strong enough If I rout and drill into it to really hold the bolts in as I believe it is mostly MDF.

Can you take a picture from under your table? I would love to see how those bolts are attached. I am assuming that you drilled holes in through the side and then routed from the bottom leaving enough side for the bolt to hold onto.

Here are some pictures from the sketchup model (link posted above)


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## nwbusa (Feb 21, 2012)

Sure, I'll go snap a few pics, one sec.


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## nwbusa (Feb 21, 2012)

MolokMot, you got it right, that's exactly how I did it. But, I just realized that this might not work for you, as I have a hardwood border around my table. If you left enough of the MDF material there (i.e. use long enough bolts) then it might be strong enough.

Here's how I did mine: (by the way-this is the *sloppiest* routering I've done lol… this was the first time using a router in about 20 years) 










My table is a layer of 3/4" melamine laminated to a layer of 3/4" MDF, edged with 3/4" oak.


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## nwbusa (Feb 21, 2012)

In looking at your Sketchup pics, I am thinking the frame underneath is what would be used to attach to your TS-would that leave the router table flush with the TS surface?


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## jmaichel (May 22, 2010)

Lumberjoe,
I am not opposed to the LS-TS system, some would probably say it was overkill for that saw but when you add the cost of R4512 and the LS-TS together they add up to about the same price as saws in the same class as the R4512. I would like to see a picture of your setup.

John, your router table setup looks pretty nice too and probably cheaper than the LS-TS but I don't really want to build my own router table.

James


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## nwbusa (Feb 21, 2012)

James, I don't blame you. The commercially available tables are nice, and someday I'll probably upgrade to something like the Benchdog CI table.


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## MolokMot (Jan 11, 2012)

I set up the sketchup so that the table was flush. the frame hangs down quite a bit under that. I may need to figure out some sort of angle iron solution, but the problem with that is I would have to rout channels into the side of the table to be able to bolt the angle iron in. That is unless I figured out how to bolt something to the bottom of the front fence. That only leaves the back fence to try to figure something out.

I was really hoping there was a solution that would not require a huge level of modification to the table itself. If I had known that I would have just tried to build my own table.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

I have almost 1.5 times the cost of that saw in blades alone. A table saw is just a motor, cabinet and cast iron. It's the stuff attached to it that makes it really shine. I'll post some pics when it finally comes in. I'll take some pics of the install process as well.

If you are going to mount your table as such, I would leave the steel extension in as John did. If you remove it you will only have one bolt holding up your fence (and keeping it square) on the entire right side of the saw. I suppose you could anchor it to the wood, but I'd be nervous about that.


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## MolokMot (Jan 11, 2012)

Lumberjoe,

Here it is with the steel extension as well. Seems like it might be a little heavy on the right if I do it this way. It would still require me to Tap the 1 3/8 MDF top to drive the bolts into the router table top which I am afraid may not hold. Any opinions?


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

MolokMot, you seem like a smart dude. I get kind of frustrated at times, but unless something is made specifically for your saw, you are likely going to have to modify it quite a bit. If it is made for your saw, you have a 60% of it fitting perfectly out of the box. 
Just look at it as a personal challenge. Building your own table has challenges as well. Trying to route out that damn router plate was a nightmare. I abandoned the instructions that told me I needed a router bit that doesn't exist (1 1/2" pattern bit) and just took my time and made a template with it.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

Yeah, that looks like it sucks too. The bar would be in the way of the router plate if your drawing is right, but it's SUPER close. I wouldn't worry too much about the weight. You've got over 200lbs of cast iron on the center of this thing. 
I'm not sure how I would set it up without the extension though. Then you would have 35" of fence held on by 1 bolt


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## MolokMot (Jan 11, 2012)

Lumberjoe,

Thanks, I am reasonably smart. My skill set however is based in computers and web development.  Woodworking for me is a newer endeavor. I am really looking for the most secure option and wanted to see if anyone out there had used a table like this before. I guess that they were smarter and opted for something a bit more compatible, or had the money to replace their fence.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

Maybe not smarter - but cheaper in a lot of cases. My only issue with the fence is that the rails are two pieces. When I am within 2" or so of the blade, the force of the fence locking down pushes them a part a bit. The fence itself is awesome. I just wish the rails are one piece.

Honestly if this were mine, here is what I would do (after looking at your sketchip pics, nice btw)

1 - ditch the steel extension
2 - Go to your local big box store and get some aluminum L brackets. make sure they are long enough to fit under the router insert and don't have any holes. Drill/cut an elongated hole on one side (so you cal slide it up and down for level) and a single hole on the bottom so you can drill into the wood base
3 - Attach the bolts from the cast iron to the AL brackets
4 - attach the fence mounting bolts to AL brackets
5 - Drop in the table and level it. Clamp some known straight/flat 2×4's to the top of your saw. Get the insert level with the 2×4's and mark the brackets.
6 - Secure brackets
7 - Secure insert
8 - celebratory beverage followed by a pic upload.

Edit - you may have to clearance for the bolts on the L brackets where they connect to the cast iron and the fence rails, but a fornster bit would do the trick


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## MolokMot (Jan 11, 2012)

Lumberjoe,

Once again thanks for the help. I think that your recommendation is going to be my best path forward and will be the most secure option.

I think that I am also going to need to rout mortises into the sides of the router table where the bolts and brackets will be so it can slide down over top of them.

I will be sure to take some pictures and setup a blog to capture all of the information for anyone who attempts this in the future.

Regards,
MolokMot


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

Good luck and let us know how it works out. It should be a pretty sweet set up when you are done with it


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