# Gluing the faces of board- clamping suggestions?



## ravensrock (Nov 26, 2013)

I am in the process of making a sitting bench from quartersawn white oak. The bench seat is going to be about 1 3/4" thick so I'm face gluing the boards together to achieve this thickness. The final dimensions of the seat will be 15" wide by 52" long. As you can see in the picture I have already jointed and edge glued two sets of boards- one is comprised of 3 boards and about 16" wide and the other 4 boards at 21". My thought was to stagger the glue joints of the top and bottom pieces to add strength, glue it up and then cut it to final dimensions.

My question is how to best glue these two pieces together- especially getting clamping pressure toward the center. I used 3 sets of flat cauls with what I've glued up so far. I thought I would use these (maybe add a slight curve to them and add a few more sets). Or would weights and cinder blocks on top be enough? I also have considered using screws from underneath then plug the holes matching the grain as best I can. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


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## jdh122 (Sep 8, 2010)

Curved cauls (4-5 of them) and then as many clamps as you can fit long both edges (ie not on the cauls).
The easiest way to make curved cauls is with a jointer: http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/video/how-to-make-cambered-cauls.aspx
You might have done better to glue the seat up in the opposite order - for thickness first and then for width. The staggering of joints that your method allows doesn't really add strength, as the yellow glue joint is stronger than that oak you're using. If you're really worried about getting clamping pressure toward the middle of your board you could rip them apart along the glue lines and start over in the other order, but I don't think it's necessary, the cauls should do the job.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Jeremy nailed it.


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## SirIrb (Jan 12, 2015)

I would have face glued the boards, jointed and ripped them then edge glued them. But if you want to stagger the joints then I guess thats out. I wouldnt think that you would really be risking adding a weak spot to the bench seat by not staggering the joints (though it would appear stronger) because, as has often been said, the joint-good joint-is stronger than the wood.

I would also dowel for giggles if you are concerned about strength in the joints and you had gone with the above mentioned method of face gluing first.

Otherwise: Post #1.


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## ravensrock (Nov 26, 2013)

Thanks for the replies. In hindsight I thought too I should have done things the other way around. I didn't think staggering the joints would add a lot of strength but figured it might help some. I guess I'll go with the cauls.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://www.mikes-woodwork.com/Cauls.htm

Mr. Henderson has a great tutorial on cauls.


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

Use epoxy. No clamping needed.


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## boisdearc (Sep 29, 2014)

Brush on contact glue… Maybe a couple coats.. Let get tacky, then bam…. Can't be beat apart..


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

How are you flattening the boards before gluing?
The flatter the better. Pour yellow glue on and spread out. You could use a notched trowel to spread to keep it even but it's not necessary. Cauls and clamps and your good to go.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Glue, screws and plugs of the same species. Predrill holes in an orderly fashion, glue up the boards, screw in the screws, and plug the holes. Sand the plugs, and you're done. Just another option…........... jerry


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## ravensrock (Nov 26, 2013)

jbay- The boards are pretty flat already. I haven't gotten the glue line cleaned up on the underside of the top so that's why it looks like it's up a bit in the picture. A trowel is a good idea to get the glue spread.

waho6o9- Thanks for the link. Looks like I'll be making a few more sets of cauls this weekend.

I think I'll rip the bottom board closer to the final width of 15" so my clamps can reach better then glue it up.


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