# Working with reclaimed oak



## Firefighter (Oct 21, 2010)

I have the chance to get some reclaimed oak that was taken from an old barn. I want to build a dining table/bench and master bath vanity. I have seen reclaimed furniture with the saw marks intact, but a finish that still feels good. I know it won't be a glass smooth surface, but what do you do to make the table top suitable for a table top while maintaining as much character as possible? Thanks for any ideas! Also, what is a reasonable price to pay for this material? 1×6, 1×8 and 4×4. I think lengths are random.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

I use a hand plane on the stuff









That way, I can control how much is removed, and how much stays behind..


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

Looks like elm, not oak.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

This is white Oak slab a friend had sawn from a log on his property. He was going to just belt sand the whole 20" wide, by 10' long slab. Slab was about 4" thick. I was showing how a plane could help things along.


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## Firefighter (Oct 21, 2010)

Wouldn't that pretty quickly remove the saw marks that I want to retain?


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Depends. One: on how much you remove with the plane. You can always "Skip-plane" and just knock the marks down a bit. Two: Use a scrub plane. And leave THOSE marks instead.

One can smooth the marks out entirely on the areas where the marks won't show. I tend to get 80% of the marks off, makes doing any joinery work a little easier.









A blanket Chest made from Reclaimed White Oak, stained a dark walnut by the owner.









And a better look at the top.. Lot of the saw marks from being resawn were planed off. Still some left.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Card scrapers also work well for this.

BTW, thats a nice chest, Bandit.


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## palaswood (Aug 9, 2013)

Here's what I do to retain the "reclaimed wood" look.

Hit it with the orbital sander or finish sander with a high grit, like 220. Dont work up to the 220 using lower grits, just hit it with the 220 until you get it mostly smooth to the touch, while keeping the "character" of the saw marks, dings, etc.

But LIGHTLY, cause ROS's can take off a lot of material. Just run it over each spot for a few seconds.

Then hand sand 320 and go to 400, hitting all the nooks and crannies to eliminate any splintering. The surface will not be completely flat, there will be high and low spots, but thats part of the charm. And then just finish directly, i'm partial to Watco Danish Oil. Wet sanding with diluted danish oil using 400, and let set for 30 mins, then wipe off and repeat, and repeat, until the pores are filled, and then 600 or higher to achieve that glass like finish.

But if you want a more rustic finish, just sand to 320 and even to just 220, but hand sand after using the power sander. And dont wet sand, just let the oil soak in for about 30 mins, then wipe off. Or were you thinking of using a poly or lacquer?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Exactly what do you mean by "Suitable for a tabletop"?

I know this isn't oak, but I used a similar process to palaswood suggested on it. Oak would have been similar.


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

It doesn't look very oak like to me either still if your sure? Alistair


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## Firefighter (Oct 21, 2010)

I was thinking of a poly finish, but only because that is what I usually use. My end goal is to have a table top smooth enough to wipe down and not have food scraps stuck in the wood. Also, any suggestions on epoxy to fill the nail holes?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Post some pictures. What does it look like?


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## Firefighter (Oct 21, 2010)

Here is a sample area that I cleaned (brushed dirt out of cracks) and wiped down with mineral spirits. I also sanded that area with 220 by hand. It gave a textured but smooth feeling.


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