# Charles Neil build along mahogany lowboy "series"



## a1Jim

*week*

About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.

Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


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## toddc

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


Oh perfect, a cliff hanger just before I go to bed. How am I supposed to sleep now?


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## Chipncut

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


*Your a big tease!*


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## grizzman

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


yea they nailed it jim…your just like me…a big tease…..well you just wait…your day will come when your on the edge…waiting…i bet your waiting period to get the wood was a good one for ya…lol….....and then just like on christmas day..you got to see the eye candy…lol…im sure thats to come for us ….it better…lol…......this is a neat thing , and will help us all in our building techniques..and fun to watch…grizzman


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## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


only a quart ?

Charles really does trust you (LOL) !


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## Porosky

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


Are you going to sculpt a lowboy? Can't wait for you to get started Jim.


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## dfletcher

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


Wow, can't wait to see it.


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## lumberdustjohn

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


Grain filler?
I thought the corn cob ground up in the feed was grain filler?

Are you raising a cow?


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## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


must be one of those new ' green cows ' , john .

it is water-based filler , no chemicals !


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## BillyJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


Come on now - at least you could offer a peek. You know, peal back the wrapper - make it look sexy!!! This is awesome - can't wait to see more pics.


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## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


Ok, now I've seen 3 packages from FedEx. I'm less than thrilled Jim. This reminds me of the old movie serial "The Purple Monster" we kids saw at the Saturday matinee'. It was a long wait between episodes. I hope we don't have to wait a whole week for the continuation of this serial! LOl.


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## sras

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


I could tease you about avoiding long wait times, but I am only updating my blog once every three weeks. Oh what the heck, what's in the boxes?


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## GaryD

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


Okay and we are all going to wake up tomorrow and find out it is a dream? Right? LOL good luck with the project.


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## Dennisgrosen

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


I know we are in to wood
but da ya think we also in to S&M
I think I loose my temper now
yep time for the sledgehammer
see you

Dennis


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## NBeener

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


I think I wanna' be on Charles's Christmas list, too!!


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## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


Yep…these wood worker celebraties getting the free stuff…
but we regular guys must wait too see….


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## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


Yea Bob. who is the celbratie wood worker?


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## Wood_Chuck

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


Sometime soon, I guess stay tuned….....


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## bigike

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


Thanks jim for the updatei can't wait for the next steps.


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## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> About three weeks ago, I let everyone know that Charles Neil had invited me to build a mahogany lowboy in my shop, following him along as he builds a mahogany lowboy on his, "Mastering Woodworking" series subscription webisode. He will furnish all the material, patterns and know-how. Charles has started his webisode and is now into his third week, having covered how to get started on veneering, and great details on making cabriole legs and how to plan the morticing and now putting the legs on and beginning assembly. Last week I received a package. It was from Timber Mate and the Workshop of Charles Neil. After opening it, there was a whole quart of mahogany Timer Mate wood filler. I thought, wow, Charles must think I'm really going to mess up this build-along, but after touching base with him, I realized that you can use Timer Mate as a grain filler and that's why Timber Mate and Charles had sent so much.
> 
> Today Fed-Ex brought three large packages from Charles and tomorrow I'll post some photos of what's inside.


Hey guys
I was going to show what's in the packages last night and after a 12 hour day I got called out until 10 pm
I'll try to find a little table surface an get it posted by tonight. I'm in the middle of a cabinet job that's filling
up my shop.


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## a1Jim

*,The kit *

Hey, Friends and Neighbors!

I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .



In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.











All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.









It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.

Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.

http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


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## grizzman

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


what a great opportunity jim…love seeing all the wood…its beautiful for sure…am looking forward to seeing the build happen…...so your on a big one man project huh…better eat your Wheaties….


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## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Good start Jim. I always feel that the hardest and most boring part of a project is milling all the wood and here it done for you! It must be like Christmas at your place. Now you can just enjoy the build without all that prep work. Of course we will be enjoying it too watching as you cut it and build it. Great stuff!


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## lilredweldingrod

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


How neat! I'm going to enjoy watching this build. Rand


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## Loucarb

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


That's pretty cool Jim, can't wait to see the build.


----------



## EzJack

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Some guys have all the fun.


----------



## Eric_S

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


You're a very fortunate and lucky man Jim. I'm looking forward to updates on these.


----------



## Chelios

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


oh man this is going to be great! Really looking forward to a design that really stands out from the rest!


----------



## sbryan55

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim, I am sure you were as excited as a 10 year old at Christmas when you got the package. This is going to be fun and getting to work with Charles is going to be a wonderful opportunity.


----------



## Karson

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim: Looks like a great Valentines gift, did it come with a kiss.

Goos luck of getting you build done.


----------



## NBeener

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


*Jim*:

I'm reminded of an old saying that … for some reason … just fits this situation, perfectly:

*"Luck is when preparation meets opportunity"*

That's the kind of luck YOU had, here. You've worked long and hard to be somebody whose website and posted projects still boggle my mind.

This is the kind of opportunity that's supposed to come to guys like you. I'm just glad we're along for the ride.

Enjoy the mahogany. I don't have to tell YOU, but … I enjoyed the heck out of working with it … and … am now trimming out some household fixtures with veneers cut from my cutoffs!


----------



## janice

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looks like your gonna have fun with this! I too am looking forward to watching this.


----------



## bigike

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


you have some work ahead of you! i can't wait to see the finnish. GOOD LUCK! i know if anyone can do it you can.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looks like a great time for you. Why does Charles want you to build one too?


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Wow, what a wounderful presentation.
It was worth the wait. Looks like you
will have your work cut out for you.

looking forward to your future project post!!!


----------



## toddc

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Just a bit jealous.

Just a wee bit


----------



## Timbo

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


This is great Jim… (and Charles), please keep us updated with a lot of pics of the process.


----------



## blockhead

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I can't wait for you to get started Jim. I'm busting at the seams and I'm not even building it!


----------



## Tangle

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


lucky boy, have fun


----------



## Chelios

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim so what happened with this one? I ve been looking for the sequel. Still working on it?


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hey Chelios

It's still going to happen I'm just finishing a big cabinet job and have been putting in 12 hour days.
I'm anxious to get started too.


----------



## Chelios

a1Jim said:


> *,The kit *
> 
> Hey, Friends and Neighbors!
> 
> I know I promised the opening of the packages Charles sent a couple days ago. Sorry for the delay.
> I opened all three of those big, heavy packages that Charles Neil was so nice and generous to send .
> 
> 
> 
> In a way, it's a kit with all the patterns and with each piece of wood labeled for its' specific use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of the wood had 1/4" ply wrapped around it to protect it from damage in shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's all beautiful, real mahogany, with one piece of African mahogany, sent to show the differences in the woods. The wood is all rough cut and labeled by Charles. It had to have been a big job to rough mill, sand and pack, then ship all this great material. It's like Charles is the wood fairy (you know, like the tooth fairy!)
> This is a great opportunity and I'm so grateful for Charles' gift and kindness.
> I have been involved in a fairly large cabinet build (large for just one guy) so this will delay the start of the lowboy for a little while, but I 'm very anxious to get started.
> 
> Thanks, so much Charles, for this great gift and for sharing your amazing know-how for all of us to share.
> Anyone so inclined can sign up for Charles' free newsletter and subscribe to his," Mastering Woodworking", where Charles shows how to build one great project at a time. Right now, he's building this lowboy project, that I'm building along with him.
> 
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I hear you Jim, work comes first then fun..oh wait you get both at the same time. I will be looking forward to your build.

best


----------



## a1Jim

* In The begining*

It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.





Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.

Here are the pages:



The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.





After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
,


Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.











Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.

Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.

http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/

Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
Thanks for following along.


----------



## Karson

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Jim: It's starting to look great. Nice set of patterns.


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


feast or famine .

glad you can find some time to do this ,
i know we are all going to learn allot .

thanks jim .


----------



## grizzman

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


alright…have been waiting for this …will enjoy it…thanks …


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Thanks guys, kind of a slow start but hopefully I'll get more done next weekend.


----------



## jack1

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Looks like work and fun!


----------



## ND2ELK

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Hi Jim

Looking forward to seeing your progress. Looks like you are off to a good start. Have fun!

God Bless
tom


----------



## janice

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


I am so too looking forward to seeing this.


----------



## sbryan55

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Jim, this is looking pretty good and I know that this will be a fun experience. I will be looking forward to the next installment.


----------



## LeeJ

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Looking good Jim.

Lee


----------



## dfletcher

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Thanks for doing this, Jim. I really appreciate it, as I just can't afford his other stuff yet, but sure do plan on getting some dvd's soon.


----------



## lumberdustjohn

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Thanks for the update.
Look forward to the series.


----------



## gmerteng

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Hey Jim i am looking forward to watching you build this thanks alot.


----------



## KentS

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Good start Jim

Thanks for sharing


----------



## bigike

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


great start, if anyone can do it it's you jim.


----------



## D1st

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


This is cool Jim. I have been wanting to see how you work in the shop and your style in motion. Im sure that I and others will learn some things as you blog about this. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Qmoney

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Jim: Awesome job looks great, Perfection.


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Jim great…. you have quite a crowd growing here. I'm working a lot to, and appreciate a little at a time myself, so I can keep up with this read. Thanks!!!


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Thanks everyone I look forward to giving it a go.


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> * In The begining*
> 
> It's been some time since Charles Neil invited me to build a lowboy along with him, as he builds his lowboy on his series," Mastering Woodworking", and his subscribtion webisode. He not only invited me to build the lowboy, but shipped me all of the wonderful maghogany to build it, along with the patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm just getting started, I printed the patterns from his website, (even though he sent me a pattern), to start the way you might want to begin the project.
> 
> Here are the pages:
> 
> 
> 
> The first patterns to be used will be that of the cabriole legs. They will have to be cut out and glued or taped together, matching the letters that help line it all up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After you cut and assemble the pattern, you would normally glue it onto a piece of 1/4" ply, but in my case, Charles had furnished me with a pre-drawn pattern, so I used his pattern by first band sawing it out.
> ,
> 
> 
> Then after getting it rough cut, you need to shape the pattern by sanding and filing by hand and with using power sanders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the patterns are smoothed out, next time I will show how to orientate the mahogany for the legs.
> 
> Remember, I'm following the steps that Charles has set forth in his "Mastering Woodworking" webisode.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> Because of my present work load, I'll only be able to blog on weekends, so the next installment will be next weekend.
> Thanks for following along.


Good blog Jim. Now you have me trying to figure out how to use cabriolet legs on a box!


----------



## a1Jim

* week *

Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4

Hey folks, welcome back!

I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material. 
Thanks Charles!

A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.



I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.

Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.







With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.

We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.


The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.



After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye. 




After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.


I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.



I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.



On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.



You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.


Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.

The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.



The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.












This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


----------



## rolltopbox

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


"Before you go any further Charles points out how it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee .This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye. "

I would like to hear more details about this.

Bruce


----------



## grizzman

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


looking great jim…i bet this is a fun project…and a few challenges for a pro even..lol….im enjoyin g this..thanks for the hard work of doing it all…grizz


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hi Bruce
You might read the part just below the photo of the square I thought that's what I had there plus the drawings. As you said that's a very important according to Charles. But it's a great idea to keep me on my toes just in case I miss anything.


----------



## bigike

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


keep em coming looks to be great start,


----------



## NBeener

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Wow, *Jim*:

I'm really grateful that you've put up these pictures !

For some of us, it's blogs like this, and the NYW reruns that allow us to see how the better woodworkers … work !

I bet you're having fun on this.

Is it a little nerve-wracking, or … more like relaxing ?

What steps ahead give you the most pause-make you think the most about how you're going to approach them ?

Perhaps most importantly … did you get any NEW TOOLS for this build ??? 

Great stuff !!


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks a lot Grizz ,Ike and Neil

It is great to get started. Since I'm working long hours in contracting it's a little tough to make lots of progress
on the lowboy but hope to finish my large deck soon and then I can have more time to more forward.

Neil the only new tool I have purchased is Charles special router bit.


----------



## Porosky

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great job Jim, this is going to be a lot of fun to follow. Inspiring!


----------



## TraumaJacques

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim you are so fortunate !!! but the again i am drunck so what do i know?


----------



## Eric_S

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Nicely done Jim. I'm looking forward to more posts on this.


----------



## Chelios

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim

Thanks for the write up. This is really cool how you are breaking it dow so it looks simple…although its clearly not.

all the best and keep them coming


----------



## sandhill

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Cant wait to see it done. Its good to see all the steps along the way, such fun enjoy wish I had that kind of time. Keep up the great posts.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looks good.


----------



## tenhoeda

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great write up and pictures. Can't wait to see your progress on this


----------



## LeeJ

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hi Jim;

Why do you have a leg from a pie crust table in the first picture? That won't work too well on a low boy.

So far, so good!

It's always a shame when work interferes with play. LOL

Lee


----------



## SPalm

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks for posting this Jim. 
I really appreciate the step by step.

I can only dream of attacking such a project.
Steve


----------



## gmerteng

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Nice job Jim.


----------



## lumberdustjohn

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


good start
Keep the postings coming.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks every one

Lee The Pie crust leg is just to show the closest thing I've made to a cabriole leg.


----------



## CharlesNeil

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


you doing great Jim, you are certainly a quick study, then again I knew you would be, keep it coming..

this is good, when Jim is done, who will be my next victum… hummmmmm? h eh eh eh e


----------



## LateNightOwl

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


This is way beyond my skill level, but it is great reading. I like the tip about the grain orientation creating the bullseye. I suspect it is being aware of details like this that goes into making a really fine piece.


----------



## Cher

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks for info Jim. Looking forward to next week.


----------



## pommy

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim this is great and i'm looking forward to next week also but i do feel this sort of blog or tutorial what ever you want to call it should be in a seperate forum persific for teaching and learning how to do things i have spoken to Martin on this but i dont think he liked the idea the reason for a new teaching forum is that we dont miss any blogs by the wonderful teachers we have on here like yourself Jim…

excuse my spelling mate

Andy


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Very Nicely done blog with a lot of good learning points Jim. Very appreciated.


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Nice Jim, I turn with a cnc lathe….and I hate turning off center. With a long piece like that
they can really fly and make your day!!!!


----------



## KentS

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I'm enjoying your updates Jim

Keep them coming, and-------thanks


----------



## mtkate

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #4
> 
> Hey folks, welcome back!
> 
> I want to stop and thank Charles Neil for the invitation to build this lowboy and for furnishing the material for the build, plus patterns and of course, know-how and even a lot of pre-milling of the material.
> Thanks Charles!
> 
> A point I'd like to make is that I haven't made a lowboy before and then, only a smaller version on what might be called a cabriole leg.
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a few pieces of furniture that incorporated cabriole legs in them, but because of time restraints, I purchased the legs for those projects.
> 
> Last time, we left off at bandsawing the pre-drawn pattern out, furnished by Charles, and sanding and trimming it to size. Guess what…? I already goofed and cut the knee a little off. So I cut the pattern out like everyone that's building off the PDF that Charles has online for the subscribers to his " Mastering Woodworking", and started over on the pattern. So I glued my cut-out pattern to some ¼" ply and this time took a little more time and got my pattern cut out properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the patterns, it's important to get the shaft lined up with the lowboys' apron and of course, to have the correct shape of your cabriole leg. As Charles points out, unless you really do a real botch job of cutting a leg out, all the legs can be contoured to look alike.
> 
> We now move forward on to the cabriole legs, one of the most challenging parts of this build, (according to Charles ). The different parts of the leg include the shaft , knee, ankle, foot, pad and later, a knee block.
> 
> 
> The first point to make here, is that the material needs to be square…this is critical and will make things very difficult later, if it's not square to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock, it's now important to give focus to the grain of the stock we are about to use for our legs. Before you go any further, Charles points out that it's important to pay attention to how the grain runs, in relation to the front knee section of your leg or you may end up with what can be a unattractive bulls eye shape right at the knee. This will interfere with the lines of the completed piece and distract the eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After squaring the leg stock and aligning your woods' grain, the next step is that you'll need to prepare it for turning on the lathe, by drawing lines on the end of the stock, from corner to corner, to find center.
> 
> 
> I mark the corners to indicate where the square part of the leg will be.
> 
> 
> 
> I mark the center with an awl to help mount it in the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> On the foot side, I put a mark on the bottom to keep track of the proper orientation of the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have the center mark offset back towards the heal of the leg, ¼" to help with having a good, flowing contour of your ankle to the foot.
> 
> 
> Next we use a compass (aka: dividers) to draw a group of circles on the foot side of the stock.
> 
> The circles are centered on the offset mark on the bottom of the foot. The center circle is approximately 1½" for the pad, 2 ¼" for the foot and around 2 3/8" for the outer edge of the foot to be cleaned up later.
> To help keep track of where the turning will be on the lathe, I will draw the outline of the leg on our blank and then mount it on the lathe. Before I mount the leg, I make sure the the center is well fixed by using my large carvers mallet.
> 
> 
> 
> The lathe will be turning on as low a speed that's practical, being careful not turn too much off of the heel, which will be cleaned up later. The area to be turned on the foot is only about a strong ¾", up from the bottom of the foot or bottom of the blank, plus anther ¼ " for clearance. You have to be careful not to get carried away and take too much off and mess up the heal of your legs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will end for this week. Next week we should be off and running, by starting to cut out and shaping our legs.
> http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Really cool to see this in progress. Makes me think… "someday I might"...


----------



## a1Jim

*week*

Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #5

Last week, we progressed on our lowboy project and the making of our cabriole leg, where we roughed in our foot and pad on the lathe.

A couple of points I'd like to make about turning the foot, is that when placed in the lathe, the blank is mounted in the lathe, off-center, so you need to check the clearance on the lathe on more than one side, due to the fact that one side of the blank is much closer to the lathe, than of the other side. Another issue is, when turning the foot and pad, you'll need to taper the area to the foot, just for clearance of your tools and fingers for a safer operation, but it must not be excessive or you will remove part of the foot.
Now we have all of the feet and pads turned. 


We need to start sawing the blank to reveal the cabriole leg shape. The first part we will do is the shaft (the straight part of the leg.) When Charles did this, he cut both straight sides on the table saw. He also pointed out that due to the diameter of the large blank, this can be dangerous, taking into account that the wood could pinch the blade, causing a kick back if a splitter or riving knife is not used on your table saw. Another alternative is to use a band saw with a fence and the blade set to eliminate drift. I've decided to use my table saw, but contrary to Charles' advise, I do not have a splitter or riving knife (not the way I recommend doing it, either), so I will have take other precautions . The way I cut the shaft on the table saw is by cutting a little at time, making several passes, say a third of the depth each pass, therefore minimizing the possibility of kick back.




Depending on the type of table saw you have, you may want to do the cuts in steps, more or less. As Charles points out, you need to make sure you don't cut too far down past the transition point, by forgetting that the lower part of the blade cuts further than the portion of the blade seen on the top of the cut on the blank, so a stop will be put in place on the table saw fence to help avoid over-cutting into the knee area of our leg. 
Another point is to check each blank to make sure you're lining up on your shaft, instead just blindly cutting all the blanks, only to find one of the pieces of stock was a little wider or thinner than the others and cutting into your shaft.

After making our ripping cuts, we make our cross cuts by indexing of the foot side of our blank, making sure we don't cut too deep and scaring our leg. I'm using my Osborn miter gauge, but by adding a longer board and stop to a standard miter gauge, it can be done with your miter gauge. Charles also points out that it's best to index off of the foot, in case your blanks vary in length, so that your cross cuts end up where they should.



Now we move to the band saw and start cutting the contour. Charles points out that one of the most critical parts of this operation is the cutting out of the foot


and the transition point from the stem to the knee.

One trick Charles has, is to keep your cut on the level, is by starting the cut, by going into the side of the leg and creating a kind of support by leaving a small section of wood and then cutting the rest of the contour. After carefully cutting out along the contour


We tape the fall off (the pieces that were cut off) back on the side we just cut them off of, by taping it back on with masking tape 




and redrawing our cut-out lines over the areas covered by tape. We then proceed to the carefully cutting out of the other side of the contoured part of the leg.

Next time we will go back to the lathe to do some final shaping and sanding of the foot and pad. Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding and the legs are turning on the lathe. After the lathe work, shaping and smoothing begins, and this can be done with a variety of tools, including various spoke shaves of different shapes, rasps, files, drum sanders, oscillating spindle sanders or anything that will remove the wood and smooth and sand the contour of the legs. Charles points out for those who want to make exact measurements, to make the legs alike will drive themselves crazy. His statement that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike they are the alike".

After the legs are cut out

Remember, I gathered these techniques from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking". I feel it's a real bargain for only $20 a month and for at least four, 1 hour webisodes per month (it works out to only $ 5.00 a week.) As members, you can get DVDs off the webisodes also.
http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


----------



## LeeJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #5
> 
> Last week, we progressed on our lowboy project and the making of our cabriole leg, where we roughed in our foot and pad on the lathe.
> 
> A couple of points I'd like to make about turning the foot, is that when placed in the lathe, the blank is mounted in the lathe, off-center, so you need to check the clearance on the lathe on more than one side, due to the fact that one side of the blank is much closer to the lathe, than of the other side. Another issue is, when turning the foot and pad, you'll need to taper the area to the foot, just for clearance of your tools and fingers for a safer operation, but it must not be excessive or you will remove part of the foot.
> Now we have all of the feet and pads turned.
> 
> 
> We need to start sawing the blank to reveal the cabriole leg shape. The first part we will do is the shaft (the straight part of the leg.) When Charles did this, he cut both straight sides on the table saw. He also pointed out that due to the diameter of the large blank, this can be dangerous, taking into account that the wood could pinch the blade, causing a kick back if a splitter or riving knife is not used on your table saw. Another alternative is to use a band saw with a fence and the blade set to eliminate drift. I've decided to use my table saw, but contrary to Charles' advise, I do not have a splitter or riving knife (not the way I recommend doing it, either), so I will have take other precautions . The way I cut the shaft on the table saw is by cutting a little at time, making several passes, say a third of the depth each pass, therefore minimizing the possibility of kick back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the type of table saw you have, you may want to do the cuts in steps, more or less. As Charles points out, you need to make sure you don't cut too far down past the transition point, by forgetting that the lower part of the blade cuts further than the portion of the blade seen on the top of the cut on the blank, so a stop will be put in place on the table saw fence to help avoid over-cutting into the knee area of our leg.
> Another point is to check each blank to make sure you're lining up on your shaft, instead just blindly cutting all the blanks, only to find one of the pieces of stock was a little wider or thinner than the others and cutting into your shaft.
> 
> After making our ripping cuts, we make our cross cuts by indexing of the foot side of our blank, making sure we don't cut too deep and scaring our leg. I'm using my Osborn miter gauge, but by adding a longer board and stop to a standard miter gauge, it can be done with your miter gauge. Charles also points out that it's best to index off of the foot, in case your blanks vary in length, so that your cross cuts end up where they should.
> 
> 
> 
> Now we move to the band saw and start cutting the contour. Charles points out that one of the most critical parts of this operation is the cutting out of the foot
> 
> 
> and the transition point from the stem to the knee.
> 
> One trick Charles has, is to keep your cut on the level, is by starting the cut, by going into the side of the leg and creating a kind of support by leaving a small section of wood and then cutting the rest of the contour. After carefully cutting out along the contour
> 
> 
> We tape the fall off (the pieces that were cut off) back on the side we just cut them off of, by taping it back on with masking tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and redrawing our cut-out lines over the areas covered by tape. We then proceed to the carefully cutting out of the other side of the contoured part of the leg.
> 
> Next time we will go back to the lathe to do some final shaping and sanding of the foot and pad. Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding and the legs are turning on the lathe. After the lathe work, shaping and smoothing begins, and this can be done with a variety of tools, including various spoke shaves of different shapes, rasps, files, drum sanders, oscillating spindle sanders or anything that will remove the wood and smooth and sand the contour of the legs. Charles points out for those who want to make exact measurements, to make the legs alike will drive themselves crazy. His statement that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike they are the alike".
> 
> After the legs are cut out
> 
> Remember, I gathered these techniques from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking". I feel it's a real bargain for only $20 a month and for at least four, 1 hour webisodes per month (it works out to only $ 5.00 a week.) As members, you can get DVDs off the webisodes also.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hi Jim,

So far, so good, huh? I have to say, it really scares me to see a saw with no splitter, especially with a cut that deep.

Thems some nice legs!!!

Lee


----------



## bigike

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #5
> 
> Last week, we progressed on our lowboy project and the making of our cabriole leg, where we roughed in our foot and pad on the lathe.
> 
> A couple of points I'd like to make about turning the foot, is that when placed in the lathe, the blank is mounted in the lathe, off-center, so you need to check the clearance on the lathe on more than one side, due to the fact that one side of the blank is much closer to the lathe, than of the other side. Another issue is, when turning the foot and pad, you'll need to taper the area to the foot, just for clearance of your tools and fingers for a safer operation, but it must not be excessive or you will remove part of the foot.
> Now we have all of the feet and pads turned.
> 
> 
> We need to start sawing the blank to reveal the cabriole leg shape. The first part we will do is the shaft (the straight part of the leg.) When Charles did this, he cut both straight sides on the table saw. He also pointed out that due to the diameter of the large blank, this can be dangerous, taking into account that the wood could pinch the blade, causing a kick back if a splitter or riving knife is not used on your table saw. Another alternative is to use a band saw with a fence and the blade set to eliminate drift. I've decided to use my table saw, but contrary to Charles' advise, I do not have a splitter or riving knife (not the way I recommend doing it, either), so I will have take other precautions . The way I cut the shaft on the table saw is by cutting a little at time, making several passes, say a third of the depth each pass, therefore minimizing the possibility of kick back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the type of table saw you have, you may want to do the cuts in steps, more or less. As Charles points out, you need to make sure you don't cut too far down past the transition point, by forgetting that the lower part of the blade cuts further than the portion of the blade seen on the top of the cut on the blank, so a stop will be put in place on the table saw fence to help avoid over-cutting into the knee area of our leg.
> Another point is to check each blank to make sure you're lining up on your shaft, instead just blindly cutting all the blanks, only to find one of the pieces of stock was a little wider or thinner than the others and cutting into your shaft.
> 
> After making our ripping cuts, we make our cross cuts by indexing of the foot side of our blank, making sure we don't cut too deep and scaring our leg. I'm using my Osborn miter gauge, but by adding a longer board and stop to a standard miter gauge, it can be done with your miter gauge. Charles also points out that it's best to index off of the foot, in case your blanks vary in length, so that your cross cuts end up where they should.
> 
> 
> 
> Now we move to the band saw and start cutting the contour. Charles points out that one of the most critical parts of this operation is the cutting out of the foot
> 
> 
> and the transition point from the stem to the knee.
> 
> One trick Charles has, is to keep your cut on the level, is by starting the cut, by going into the side of the leg and creating a kind of support by leaving a small section of wood and then cutting the rest of the contour. After carefully cutting out along the contour
> 
> 
> We tape the fall off (the pieces that were cut off) back on the side we just cut them off of, by taping it back on with masking tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and redrawing our cut-out lines over the areas covered by tape. We then proceed to the carefully cutting out of the other side of the contoured part of the leg.
> 
> Next time we will go back to the lathe to do some final shaping and sanding of the foot and pad. Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding and the legs are turning on the lathe. After the lathe work, shaping and smoothing begins, and this can be done with a variety of tools, including various spoke shaves of different shapes, rasps, files, drum sanders, oscillating spindle sanders or anything that will remove the wood and smooth and sand the contour of the legs. Charles points out for those who want to make exact measurements, to make the legs alike will drive themselves crazy. His statement that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike they are the alike".
> 
> After the legs are cut out
> 
> Remember, I gathered these techniques from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking". I feel it's a real bargain for only $20 a month and for at least four, 1 hour webisodes per month (it works out to only $ 5.00 a week.) As members, you can get DVDs off the webisodes also.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


dam i can't wait to see it done, but i'm still here every step of the way.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #5
> 
> Last week, we progressed on our lowboy project and the making of our cabriole leg, where we roughed in our foot and pad on the lathe.
> 
> A couple of points I'd like to make about turning the foot, is that when placed in the lathe, the blank is mounted in the lathe, off-center, so you need to check the clearance on the lathe on more than one side, due to the fact that one side of the blank is much closer to the lathe, than of the other side. Another issue is, when turning the foot and pad, you'll need to taper the area to the foot, just for clearance of your tools and fingers for a safer operation, but it must not be excessive or you will remove part of the foot.
> Now we have all of the feet and pads turned.
> 
> 
> We need to start sawing the blank to reveal the cabriole leg shape. The first part we will do is the shaft (the straight part of the leg.) When Charles did this, he cut both straight sides on the table saw. He also pointed out that due to the diameter of the large blank, this can be dangerous, taking into account that the wood could pinch the blade, causing a kick back if a splitter or riving knife is not used on your table saw. Another alternative is to use a band saw with a fence and the blade set to eliminate drift. I've decided to use my table saw, but contrary to Charles' advise, I do not have a splitter or riving knife (not the way I recommend doing it, either), so I will have take other precautions . The way I cut the shaft on the table saw is by cutting a little at time, making several passes, say a third of the depth each pass, therefore minimizing the possibility of kick back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the type of table saw you have, you may want to do the cuts in steps, more or less. As Charles points out, you need to make sure you don't cut too far down past the transition point, by forgetting that the lower part of the blade cuts further than the portion of the blade seen on the top of the cut on the blank, so a stop will be put in place on the table saw fence to help avoid over-cutting into the knee area of our leg.
> Another point is to check each blank to make sure you're lining up on your shaft, instead just blindly cutting all the blanks, only to find one of the pieces of stock was a little wider or thinner than the others and cutting into your shaft.
> 
> After making our ripping cuts, we make our cross cuts by indexing of the foot side of our blank, making sure we don't cut too deep and scaring our leg. I'm using my Osborn miter gauge, but by adding a longer board and stop to a standard miter gauge, it can be done with your miter gauge. Charles also points out that it's best to index off of the foot, in case your blanks vary in length, so that your cross cuts end up where they should.
> 
> 
> 
> Now we move to the band saw and start cutting the contour. Charles points out that one of the most critical parts of this operation is the cutting out of the foot
> 
> 
> and the transition point from the stem to the knee.
> 
> One trick Charles has, is to keep your cut on the level, is by starting the cut, by going into the side of the leg and creating a kind of support by leaving a small section of wood and then cutting the rest of the contour. After carefully cutting out along the contour
> 
> 
> We tape the fall off (the pieces that were cut off) back on the side we just cut them off of, by taping it back on with masking tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and redrawing our cut-out lines over the areas covered by tape. We then proceed to the carefully cutting out of the other side of the contoured part of the leg.
> 
> Next time we will go back to the lathe to do some final shaping and sanding of the foot and pad. Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding and the legs are turning on the lathe. After the lathe work, shaping and smoothing begins, and this can be done with a variety of tools, including various spoke shaves of different shapes, rasps, files, drum sanders, oscillating spindle sanders or anything that will remove the wood and smooth and sand the contour of the legs. Charles points out for those who want to make exact measurements, to make the legs alike will drive themselves crazy. His statement that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike they are the alike".
> 
> After the legs are cut out
> 
> Remember, I gathered these techniques from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking". I feel it's a real bargain for only $20 a month and for at least four, 1 hour webisodes per month (it works out to only $ 5.00 a week.) As members, you can get DVDs off the webisodes also.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hey guys I hit enter before I was through entering this weeks progress it's all there now.


----------



## woodbutcher

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #5
> 
> Last week, we progressed on our lowboy project and the making of our cabriole leg, where we roughed in our foot and pad on the lathe.
> 
> A couple of points I'd like to make about turning the foot, is that when placed in the lathe, the blank is mounted in the lathe, off-center, so you need to check the clearance on the lathe on more than one side, due to the fact that one side of the blank is much closer to the lathe, than of the other side. Another issue is, when turning the foot and pad, you'll need to taper the area to the foot, just for clearance of your tools and fingers for a safer operation, but it must not be excessive or you will remove part of the foot.
> Now we have all of the feet and pads turned.
> 
> 
> We need to start sawing the blank to reveal the cabriole leg shape. The first part we will do is the shaft (the straight part of the leg.) When Charles did this, he cut both straight sides on the table saw. He also pointed out that due to the diameter of the large blank, this can be dangerous, taking into account that the wood could pinch the blade, causing a kick back if a splitter or riving knife is not used on your table saw. Another alternative is to use a band saw with a fence and the blade set to eliminate drift. I've decided to use my table saw, but contrary to Charles' advise, I do not have a splitter or riving knife (not the way I recommend doing it, either), so I will have take other precautions . The way I cut the shaft on the table saw is by cutting a little at time, making several passes, say a third of the depth each pass, therefore minimizing the possibility of kick back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the type of table saw you have, you may want to do the cuts in steps, more or less. As Charles points out, you need to make sure you don't cut too far down past the transition point, by forgetting that the lower part of the blade cuts further than the portion of the blade seen on the top of the cut on the blank, so a stop will be put in place on the table saw fence to help avoid over-cutting into the knee area of our leg.
> Another point is to check each blank to make sure you're lining up on your shaft, instead just blindly cutting all the blanks, only to find one of the pieces of stock was a little wider or thinner than the others and cutting into your shaft.
> 
> After making our ripping cuts, we make our cross cuts by indexing of the foot side of our blank, making sure we don't cut too deep and scaring our leg. I'm using my Osborn miter gauge, but by adding a longer board and stop to a standard miter gauge, it can be done with your miter gauge. Charles also points out that it's best to index off of the foot, in case your blanks vary in length, so that your cross cuts end up where they should.
> 
> 
> 
> Now we move to the band saw and start cutting the contour. Charles points out that one of the most critical parts of this operation is the cutting out of the foot
> 
> 
> and the transition point from the stem to the knee.
> 
> One trick Charles has, is to keep your cut on the level, is by starting the cut, by going into the side of the leg and creating a kind of support by leaving a small section of wood and then cutting the rest of the contour. After carefully cutting out along the contour
> 
> 
> We tape the fall off (the pieces that were cut off) back on the side we just cut them off of, by taping it back on with masking tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and redrawing our cut-out lines over the areas covered by tape. We then proceed to the carefully cutting out of the other side of the contoured part of the leg.
> 
> Next time we will go back to the lathe to do some final shaping and sanding of the foot and pad. Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding and the legs are turning on the lathe. After the lathe work, shaping and smoothing begins, and this can be done with a variety of tools, including various spoke shaves of different shapes, rasps, files, drum sanders, oscillating spindle sanders or anything that will remove the wood and smooth and sand the contour of the legs. Charles points out for those who want to make exact measurements, to make the legs alike will drive themselves crazy. His statement that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike they are the alike".
> 
> After the legs are cut out
> 
> Remember, I gathered these techniques from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking". I feel it's a real bargain for only $20 a month and for at least four, 1 hour webisodes per month (it works out to only $ 5.00 a week.) As members, you can get DVDs off the webisodes also.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


a1jim,
I just got here so I'm seeing it all-LOL thanks for the blog! Just send me the cut off pieces when you're done bandsawing and I'll make my own pattern-LOL. I can appreciate Lees' concern about cutting such a thick piece of stock with know riving knife or splitter. Your method of repeated cuts at different depths should alleviate any adverse kick back though. I am curious though as to why you chose to use table saw instead of the bandsaw for this cutting of the leg as well. Keep on Keeping on.

Sincerely,
Ken McGinnis


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #5
> 
> Last week, we progressed on our lowboy project and the making of our cabriole leg, where we roughed in our foot and pad on the lathe.
> 
> A couple of points I'd like to make about turning the foot, is that when placed in the lathe, the blank is mounted in the lathe, off-center, so you need to check the clearance on the lathe on more than one side, due to the fact that one side of the blank is much closer to the lathe, than of the other side. Another issue is, when turning the foot and pad, you'll need to taper the area to the foot, just for clearance of your tools and fingers for a safer operation, but it must not be excessive or you will remove part of the foot.
> Now we have all of the feet and pads turned.
> 
> 
> We need to start sawing the blank to reveal the cabriole leg shape. The first part we will do is the shaft (the straight part of the leg.) When Charles did this, he cut both straight sides on the table saw. He also pointed out that due to the diameter of the large blank, this can be dangerous, taking into account that the wood could pinch the blade, causing a kick back if a splitter or riving knife is not used on your table saw. Another alternative is to use a band saw with a fence and the blade set to eliminate drift. I've decided to use my table saw, but contrary to Charles' advise, I do not have a splitter or riving knife (not the way I recommend doing it, either), so I will have take other precautions . The way I cut the shaft on the table saw is by cutting a little at time, making several passes, say a third of the depth each pass, therefore minimizing the possibility of kick back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the type of table saw you have, you may want to do the cuts in steps, more or less. As Charles points out, you need to make sure you don't cut too far down past the transition point, by forgetting that the lower part of the blade cuts further than the portion of the blade seen on the top of the cut on the blank, so a stop will be put in place on the table saw fence to help avoid over-cutting into the knee area of our leg.
> Another point is to check each blank to make sure you're lining up on your shaft, instead just blindly cutting all the blanks, only to find one of the pieces of stock was a little wider or thinner than the others and cutting into your shaft.
> 
> After making our ripping cuts, we make our cross cuts by indexing of the foot side of our blank, making sure we don't cut too deep and scaring our leg. I'm using my Osborn miter gauge, but by adding a longer board and stop to a standard miter gauge, it can be done with your miter gauge. Charles also points out that it's best to index off of the foot, in case your blanks vary in length, so that your cross cuts end up where they should.
> 
> 
> 
> Now we move to the band saw and start cutting the contour. Charles points out that one of the most critical parts of this operation is the cutting out of the foot
> 
> 
> and the transition point from the stem to the knee.
> 
> One trick Charles has, is to keep your cut on the level, is by starting the cut, by going into the side of the leg and creating a kind of support by leaving a small section of wood and then cutting the rest of the contour. After carefully cutting out along the contour
> 
> 
> We tape the fall off (the pieces that were cut off) back on the side we just cut them off of, by taping it back on with masking tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and redrawing our cut-out lines over the areas covered by tape. We then proceed to the carefully cutting out of the other side of the contoured part of the leg.
> 
> Next time we will go back to the lathe to do some final shaping and sanding of the foot and pad. Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding and the legs are turning on the lathe. After the lathe work, shaping and smoothing begins, and this can be done with a variety of tools, including various spoke shaves of different shapes, rasps, files, drum sanders, oscillating spindle sanders or anything that will remove the wood and smooth and sand the contour of the legs. Charles points out for those who want to make exact measurements, to make the legs alike will drive themselves crazy. His statement that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike they are the alike".
> 
> After the legs are cut out
> 
> Remember, I gathered these techniques from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking". I feel it's a real bargain for only $20 a month and for at least four, 1 hour webisodes per month (it works out to only $ 5.00 a week.) As members, you can get DVDs off the webisodes also.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hey Ken
I did'nt wan't to change blades on my band saw and put the fence back on( a driftmaster) that's in the way when cutting out longer peices And I knew the way I was doing it was safe for me.


----------



## woodbutcher

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #5
> 
> Last week, we progressed on our lowboy project and the making of our cabriole leg, where we roughed in our foot and pad on the lathe.
> 
> A couple of points I'd like to make about turning the foot, is that when placed in the lathe, the blank is mounted in the lathe, off-center, so you need to check the clearance on the lathe on more than one side, due to the fact that one side of the blank is much closer to the lathe, than of the other side. Another issue is, when turning the foot and pad, you'll need to taper the area to the foot, just for clearance of your tools and fingers for a safer operation, but it must not be excessive or you will remove part of the foot.
> Now we have all of the feet and pads turned.
> 
> 
> We need to start sawing the blank to reveal the cabriole leg shape. The first part we will do is the shaft (the straight part of the leg.) When Charles did this, he cut both straight sides on the table saw. He also pointed out that due to the diameter of the large blank, this can be dangerous, taking into account that the wood could pinch the blade, causing a kick back if a splitter or riving knife is not used on your table saw. Another alternative is to use a band saw with a fence and the blade set to eliminate drift. I've decided to use my table saw, but contrary to Charles' advise, I do not have a splitter or riving knife (not the way I recommend doing it, either), so I will have take other precautions . The way I cut the shaft on the table saw is by cutting a little at time, making several passes, say a third of the depth each pass, therefore minimizing the possibility of kick back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the type of table saw you have, you may want to do the cuts in steps, more or less. As Charles points out, you need to make sure you don't cut too far down past the transition point, by forgetting that the lower part of the blade cuts further than the portion of the blade seen on the top of the cut on the blank, so a stop will be put in place on the table saw fence to help avoid over-cutting into the knee area of our leg.
> Another point is to check each blank to make sure you're lining up on your shaft, instead just blindly cutting all the blanks, only to find one of the pieces of stock was a little wider or thinner than the others and cutting into your shaft.
> 
> After making our ripping cuts, we make our cross cuts by indexing of the foot side of our blank, making sure we don't cut too deep and scaring our leg. I'm using my Osborn miter gauge, but by adding a longer board and stop to a standard miter gauge, it can be done with your miter gauge. Charles also points out that it's best to index off of the foot, in case your blanks vary in length, so that your cross cuts end up where they should.
> 
> 
> 
> Now we move to the band saw and start cutting the contour. Charles points out that one of the most critical parts of this operation is the cutting out of the foot
> 
> 
> and the transition point from the stem to the knee.
> 
> One trick Charles has, is to keep your cut on the level, is by starting the cut, by going into the side of the leg and creating a kind of support by leaving a small section of wood and then cutting the rest of the contour. After carefully cutting out along the contour
> 
> 
> We tape the fall off (the pieces that were cut off) back on the side we just cut them off of, by taping it back on with masking tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and redrawing our cut-out lines over the areas covered by tape. We then proceed to the carefully cutting out of the other side of the contoured part of the leg.
> 
> Next time we will go back to the lathe to do some final shaping and sanding of the foot and pad. Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding and the legs are turning on the lathe. After the lathe work, shaping and smoothing begins, and this can be done with a variety of tools, including various spoke shaves of different shapes, rasps, files, drum sanders, oscillating spindle sanders or anything that will remove the wood and smooth and sand the contour of the legs. Charles points out for those who want to make exact measurements, to make the legs alike will drive themselves crazy. His statement that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike they are the alike".
> 
> After the legs are cut out
> 
> Remember, I gathered these techniques from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking". I feel it's a real bargain for only $20 a month and for at least four, 1 hour webisodes per month (it works out to only $ 5.00 a week.) As members, you can get DVDs off the webisodes also.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


a1Jim,
I gotcha' now! I knew there was a reason why you hadn't chose to just cut the whole thing out on the bandsaw. My imagination couldn't take into account the need to change blades and remove the fence also! I went back and viewed the previous blogs associated with this project. They were great and extremely well done-Thx for taking the time to do all this and allowing us to share the build with you!

Sincerely,
Ken McGinnis


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #5
> 
> Last week, we progressed on our lowboy project and the making of our cabriole leg, where we roughed in our foot and pad on the lathe.
> 
> A couple of points I'd like to make about turning the foot, is that when placed in the lathe, the blank is mounted in the lathe, off-center, so you need to check the clearance on the lathe on more than one side, due to the fact that one side of the blank is much closer to the lathe, than of the other side. Another issue is, when turning the foot and pad, you'll need to taper the area to the foot, just for clearance of your tools and fingers for a safer operation, but it must not be excessive or you will remove part of the foot.
> Now we have all of the feet and pads turned.
> 
> 
> We need to start sawing the blank to reveal the cabriole leg shape. The first part we will do is the shaft (the straight part of the leg.) When Charles did this, he cut both straight sides on the table saw. He also pointed out that due to the diameter of the large blank, this can be dangerous, taking into account that the wood could pinch the blade, causing a kick back if a splitter or riving knife is not used on your table saw. Another alternative is to use a band saw with a fence and the blade set to eliminate drift. I've decided to use my table saw, but contrary to Charles' advise, I do not have a splitter or riving knife (not the way I recommend doing it, either), so I will have take other precautions . The way I cut the shaft on the table saw is by cutting a little at time, making several passes, say a third of the depth each pass, therefore minimizing the possibility of kick back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the type of table saw you have, you may want to do the cuts in steps, more or less. As Charles points out, you need to make sure you don't cut too far down past the transition point, by forgetting that the lower part of the blade cuts further than the portion of the blade seen on the top of the cut on the blank, so a stop will be put in place on the table saw fence to help avoid over-cutting into the knee area of our leg.
> Another point is to check each blank to make sure you're lining up on your shaft, instead just blindly cutting all the blanks, only to find one of the pieces of stock was a little wider or thinner than the others and cutting into your shaft.
> 
> After making our ripping cuts, we make our cross cuts by indexing of the foot side of our blank, making sure we don't cut too deep and scaring our leg. I'm using my Osborn miter gauge, but by adding a longer board and stop to a standard miter gauge, it can be done with your miter gauge. Charles also points out that it's best to index off of the foot, in case your blanks vary in length, so that your cross cuts end up where they should.
> 
> 
> 
> Now we move to the band saw and start cutting the contour. Charles points out that one of the most critical parts of this operation is the cutting out of the foot
> 
> 
> and the transition point from the stem to the knee.
> 
> One trick Charles has, is to keep your cut on the level, is by starting the cut, by going into the side of the leg and creating a kind of support by leaving a small section of wood and then cutting the rest of the contour. After carefully cutting out along the contour
> 
> 
> We tape the fall off (the pieces that were cut off) back on the side we just cut them off of, by taping it back on with masking tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and redrawing our cut-out lines over the areas covered by tape. We then proceed to the carefully cutting out of the other side of the contoured part of the leg.
> 
> Next time we will go back to the lathe to do some final shaping and sanding of the foot and pad. Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding and the legs are turning on the lathe. After the lathe work, shaping and smoothing begins, and this can be done with a variety of tools, including various spoke shaves of different shapes, rasps, files, drum sanders, oscillating spindle sanders or anything that will remove the wood and smooth and sand the contour of the legs. Charles points out for those who want to make exact measurements, to make the legs alike will drive themselves crazy. His statement that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike they are the alike".
> 
> After the legs are cut out
> 
> Remember, I gathered these techniques from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking". I feel it's a real bargain for only $20 a month and for at least four, 1 hour webisodes per month (it works out to only $ 5.00 a week.) As members, you can get DVDs off the webisodes also.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim that's a beautiful leg in the making. The table saw cut is a little to extreme for me, and I am looking forward to you turning the legs. I also learned something new, it never occured to me that I could twist the stop over on
my osbourn miter for larger pieces such as you did (Duh).


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #5
> 
> Last week, we progressed on our lowboy project and the making of our cabriole leg, where we roughed in our foot and pad on the lathe.
> 
> A couple of points I'd like to make about turning the foot, is that when placed in the lathe, the blank is mounted in the lathe, off-center, so you need to check the clearance on the lathe on more than one side, due to the fact that one side of the blank is much closer to the lathe, than of the other side. Another issue is, when turning the foot and pad, you'll need to taper the area to the foot, just for clearance of your tools and fingers for a safer operation, but it must not be excessive or you will remove part of the foot.
> Now we have all of the feet and pads turned.
> 
> 
> We need to start sawing the blank to reveal the cabriole leg shape. The first part we will do is the shaft (the straight part of the leg.) When Charles did this, he cut both straight sides on the table saw. He also pointed out that due to the diameter of the large blank, this can be dangerous, taking into account that the wood could pinch the blade, causing a kick back if a splitter or riving knife is not used on your table saw. Another alternative is to use a band saw with a fence and the blade set to eliminate drift. I've decided to use my table saw, but contrary to Charles' advise, I do not have a splitter or riving knife (not the way I recommend doing it, either), so I will have take other precautions . The way I cut the shaft on the table saw is by cutting a little at time, making several passes, say a third of the depth each pass, therefore minimizing the possibility of kick back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the type of table saw you have, you may want to do the cuts in steps, more or less. As Charles points out, you need to make sure you don't cut too far down past the transition point, by forgetting that the lower part of the blade cuts further than the portion of the blade seen on the top of the cut on the blank, so a stop will be put in place on the table saw fence to help avoid over-cutting into the knee area of our leg.
> Another point is to check each blank to make sure you're lining up on your shaft, instead just blindly cutting all the blanks, only to find one of the pieces of stock was a little wider or thinner than the others and cutting into your shaft.
> 
> After making our ripping cuts, we make our cross cuts by indexing of the foot side of our blank, making sure we don't cut too deep and scaring our leg. I'm using my Osborn miter gauge, but by adding a longer board and stop to a standard miter gauge, it can be done with your miter gauge. Charles also points out that it's best to index off of the foot, in case your blanks vary in length, so that your cross cuts end up where they should.
> 
> 
> 
> Now we move to the band saw and start cutting the contour. Charles points out that one of the most critical parts of this operation is the cutting out of the foot
> 
> 
> and the transition point from the stem to the knee.
> 
> One trick Charles has, is to keep your cut on the level, is by starting the cut, by going into the side of the leg and creating a kind of support by leaving a small section of wood and then cutting the rest of the contour. After carefully cutting out along the contour
> 
> 
> We tape the fall off (the pieces that were cut off) back on the side we just cut them off of, by taping it back on with masking tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and redrawing our cut-out lines over the areas covered by tape. We then proceed to the carefully cutting out of the other side of the contoured part of the leg.
> 
> Next time we will go back to the lathe to do some final shaping and sanding of the foot and pad. Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding and the legs are turning on the lathe. After the lathe work, shaping and smoothing begins, and this can be done with a variety of tools, including various spoke shaves of different shapes, rasps, files, drum sanders, oscillating spindle sanders or anything that will remove the wood and smooth and sand the contour of the legs. Charles points out for those who want to make exact measurements, to make the legs alike will drive themselves crazy. His statement that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike they are the alike".
> 
> After the legs are cut out
> 
> Remember, I gathered these techniques from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking". I feel it's a real bargain for only $20 a month and for at least four, 1 hour webisodes per month (it works out to only $ 5.00 a week.) As members, you can get DVDs off the webisodes also.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Nice work and a good blog Jim. I got interested in trying out cabriolet legs some years ago, so I made a couple out of pine just to learn/practice the technique. I did two because I wanted to see how closely I could make them match. Period furniture is fun and challenging to make, so I'm sure a lot of LJ'ers including myself are really enjoying your blog series on this.


----------



## mpmitche

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #5
> 
> Last week, we progressed on our lowboy project and the making of our cabriole leg, where we roughed in our foot and pad on the lathe.
> 
> A couple of points I'd like to make about turning the foot, is that when placed in the lathe, the blank is mounted in the lathe, off-center, so you need to check the clearance on the lathe on more than one side, due to the fact that one side of the blank is much closer to the lathe, than of the other side. Another issue is, when turning the foot and pad, you'll need to taper the area to the foot, just for clearance of your tools and fingers for a safer operation, but it must not be excessive or you will remove part of the foot.
> Now we have all of the feet and pads turned.
> 
> 
> We need to start sawing the blank to reveal the cabriole leg shape. The first part we will do is the shaft (the straight part of the leg.) When Charles did this, he cut both straight sides on the table saw. He also pointed out that due to the diameter of the large blank, this can be dangerous, taking into account that the wood could pinch the blade, causing a kick back if a splitter or riving knife is not used on your table saw. Another alternative is to use a band saw with a fence and the blade set to eliminate drift. I've decided to use my table saw, but contrary to Charles' advise, I do not have a splitter or riving knife (not the way I recommend doing it, either), so I will have take other precautions . The way I cut the shaft on the table saw is by cutting a little at time, making several passes, say a third of the depth each pass, therefore minimizing the possibility of kick back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the type of table saw you have, you may want to do the cuts in steps, more or less. As Charles points out, you need to make sure you don't cut too far down past the transition point, by forgetting that the lower part of the blade cuts further than the portion of the blade seen on the top of the cut on the blank, so a stop will be put in place on the table saw fence to help avoid over-cutting into the knee area of our leg.
> Another point is to check each blank to make sure you're lining up on your shaft, instead just blindly cutting all the blanks, only to find one of the pieces of stock was a little wider or thinner than the others and cutting into your shaft.
> 
> After making our ripping cuts, we make our cross cuts by indexing of the foot side of our blank, making sure we don't cut too deep and scaring our leg. I'm using my Osborn miter gauge, but by adding a longer board and stop to a standard miter gauge, it can be done with your miter gauge. Charles also points out that it's best to index off of the foot, in case your blanks vary in length, so that your cross cuts end up where they should.
> 
> 
> 
> Now we move to the band saw and start cutting the contour. Charles points out that one of the most critical parts of this operation is the cutting out of the foot
> 
> 
> and the transition point from the stem to the knee.
> 
> One trick Charles has, is to keep your cut on the level, is by starting the cut, by going into the side of the leg and creating a kind of support by leaving a small section of wood and then cutting the rest of the contour. After carefully cutting out along the contour
> 
> 
> We tape the fall off (the pieces that were cut off) back on the side we just cut them off of, by taping it back on with masking tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and redrawing our cut-out lines over the areas covered by tape. We then proceed to the carefully cutting out of the other side of the contoured part of the leg.
> 
> Next time we will go back to the lathe to do some final shaping and sanding of the foot and pad. Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding and the legs are turning on the lathe. After the lathe work, shaping and smoothing begins, and this can be done with a variety of tools, including various spoke shaves of different shapes, rasps, files, drum sanders, oscillating spindle sanders or anything that will remove the wood and smooth and sand the contour of the legs. Charles points out for those who want to make exact measurements, to make the legs alike will drive themselves crazy. His statement that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike they are the alike".
> 
> After the legs are cut out
> 
> Remember, I gathered these techniques from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking". I feel it's a real bargain for only $20 a month and for at least four, 1 hour webisodes per month (it works out to only $ 5.00 a week.) As members, you can get DVDs off the webisodes also.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


The legs look great Jim, I can't wait to see more.


----------



## KentS

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #5
> 
> Last week, we progressed on our lowboy project and the making of our cabriole leg, where we roughed in our foot and pad on the lathe.
> 
> A couple of points I'd like to make about turning the foot, is that when placed in the lathe, the blank is mounted in the lathe, off-center, so you need to check the clearance on the lathe on more than one side, due to the fact that one side of the blank is much closer to the lathe, than of the other side. Another issue is, when turning the foot and pad, you'll need to taper the area to the foot, just for clearance of your tools and fingers for a safer operation, but it must not be excessive or you will remove part of the foot.
> Now we have all of the feet and pads turned.
> 
> 
> We need to start sawing the blank to reveal the cabriole leg shape. The first part we will do is the shaft (the straight part of the leg.) When Charles did this, he cut both straight sides on the table saw. He also pointed out that due to the diameter of the large blank, this can be dangerous, taking into account that the wood could pinch the blade, causing a kick back if a splitter or riving knife is not used on your table saw. Another alternative is to use a band saw with a fence and the blade set to eliminate drift. I've decided to use my table saw, but contrary to Charles' advise, I do not have a splitter or riving knife (not the way I recommend doing it, either), so I will have take other precautions . The way I cut the shaft on the table saw is by cutting a little at time, making several passes, say a third of the depth each pass, therefore minimizing the possibility of kick back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the type of table saw you have, you may want to do the cuts in steps, more or less. As Charles points out, you need to make sure you don't cut too far down past the transition point, by forgetting that the lower part of the blade cuts further than the portion of the blade seen on the top of the cut on the blank, so a stop will be put in place on the table saw fence to help avoid over-cutting into the knee area of our leg.
> Another point is to check each blank to make sure you're lining up on your shaft, instead just blindly cutting all the blanks, only to find one of the pieces of stock was a little wider or thinner than the others and cutting into your shaft.
> 
> After making our ripping cuts, we make our cross cuts by indexing of the foot side of our blank, making sure we don't cut too deep and scaring our leg. I'm using my Osborn miter gauge, but by adding a longer board and stop to a standard miter gauge, it can be done with your miter gauge. Charles also points out that it's best to index off of the foot, in case your blanks vary in length, so that your cross cuts end up where they should.
> 
> 
> 
> Now we move to the band saw and start cutting the contour. Charles points out that one of the most critical parts of this operation is the cutting out of the foot
> 
> 
> and the transition point from the stem to the knee.
> 
> One trick Charles has, is to keep your cut on the level, is by starting the cut, by going into the side of the leg and creating a kind of support by leaving a small section of wood and then cutting the rest of the contour. After carefully cutting out along the contour
> 
> 
> We tape the fall off (the pieces that were cut off) back on the side we just cut them off of, by taping it back on with masking tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and redrawing our cut-out lines over the areas covered by tape. We then proceed to the carefully cutting out of the other side of the contoured part of the leg.
> 
> Next time we will go back to the lathe to do some final shaping and sanding of the foot and pad. Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding and the legs are turning on the lathe. After the lathe work, shaping and smoothing begins, and this can be done with a variety of tools, including various spoke shaves of different shapes, rasps, files, drum sanders, oscillating spindle sanders or anything that will remove the wood and smooth and sand the contour of the legs. Charles points out for those who want to make exact measurements, to make the legs alike will drive themselves crazy. His statement that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike they are the alike".
> 
> After the legs are cut out
> 
> Remember, I gathered these techniques from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking". I feel it's a real bargain for only $20 a month and for at least four, 1 hour webisodes per month (it works out to only $ 5.00 a week.) As members, you can get DVDs off the webisodes also.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Another great blog Jim. The pictures make it easy to follow

Thanks


----------



## jack1

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #5
> 
> Last week, we progressed on our lowboy project and the making of our cabriole leg, where we roughed in our foot and pad on the lathe.
> 
> A couple of points I'd like to make about turning the foot, is that when placed in the lathe, the blank is mounted in the lathe, off-center, so you need to check the clearance on the lathe on more than one side, due to the fact that one side of the blank is much closer to the lathe, than of the other side. Another issue is, when turning the foot and pad, you'll need to taper the area to the foot, just for clearance of your tools and fingers for a safer operation, but it must not be excessive or you will remove part of the foot.
> Now we have all of the feet and pads turned.
> 
> 
> We need to start sawing the blank to reveal the cabriole leg shape. The first part we will do is the shaft (the straight part of the leg.) When Charles did this, he cut both straight sides on the table saw. He also pointed out that due to the diameter of the large blank, this can be dangerous, taking into account that the wood could pinch the blade, causing a kick back if a splitter or riving knife is not used on your table saw. Another alternative is to use a band saw with a fence and the blade set to eliminate drift. I've decided to use my table saw, but contrary to Charles' advise, I do not have a splitter or riving knife (not the way I recommend doing it, either), so I will have take other precautions . The way I cut the shaft on the table saw is by cutting a little at time, making several passes, say a third of the depth each pass, therefore minimizing the possibility of kick back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the type of table saw you have, you may want to do the cuts in steps, more or less. As Charles points out, you need to make sure you don't cut too far down past the transition point, by forgetting that the lower part of the blade cuts further than the portion of the blade seen on the top of the cut on the blank, so a stop will be put in place on the table saw fence to help avoid over-cutting into the knee area of our leg.
> Another point is to check each blank to make sure you're lining up on your shaft, instead just blindly cutting all the blanks, only to find one of the pieces of stock was a little wider or thinner than the others and cutting into your shaft.
> 
> After making our ripping cuts, we make our cross cuts by indexing of the foot side of our blank, making sure we don't cut too deep and scaring our leg. I'm using my Osborn miter gauge, but by adding a longer board and stop to a standard miter gauge, it can be done with your miter gauge. Charles also points out that it's best to index off of the foot, in case your blanks vary in length, so that your cross cuts end up where they should.
> 
> 
> 
> Now we move to the band saw and start cutting the contour. Charles points out that one of the most critical parts of this operation is the cutting out of the foot
> 
> 
> and the transition point from the stem to the knee.
> 
> One trick Charles has, is to keep your cut on the level, is by starting the cut, by going into the side of the leg and creating a kind of support by leaving a small section of wood and then cutting the rest of the contour. After carefully cutting out along the contour
> 
> 
> We tape the fall off (the pieces that were cut off) back on the side we just cut them off of, by taping it back on with masking tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and redrawing our cut-out lines over the areas covered by tape. We then proceed to the carefully cutting out of the other side of the contoured part of the leg.
> 
> Next time we will go back to the lathe to do some final shaping and sanding of the foot and pad. Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding and the legs are turning on the lathe. After the lathe work, shaping and smoothing begins, and this can be done with a variety of tools, including various spoke shaves of different shapes, rasps, files, drum sanders, oscillating spindle sanders or anything that will remove the wood and smooth and sand the contour of the legs. Charles points out for those who want to make exact measurements, to make the legs alike will drive themselves crazy. His statement that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike they are the alike".
> 
> After the legs are cut out
> 
> Remember, I gathered these techniques from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking". I feel it's a real bargain for only $20 a month and for at least four, 1 hour webisodes per month (it works out to only $ 5.00 a week.) As members, you can get DVDs off the webisodes also.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Nice work.


----------



## beckerswoodworks

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #5
> 
> Last week, we progressed on our lowboy project and the making of our cabriole leg, where we roughed in our foot and pad on the lathe.
> 
> A couple of points I'd like to make about turning the foot, is that when placed in the lathe, the blank is mounted in the lathe, off-center, so you need to check the clearance on the lathe on more than one side, due to the fact that one side of the blank is much closer to the lathe, than of the other side. Another issue is, when turning the foot and pad, you'll need to taper the area to the foot, just for clearance of your tools and fingers for a safer operation, but it must not be excessive or you will remove part of the foot.
> Now we have all of the feet and pads turned.
> 
> 
> We need to start sawing the blank to reveal the cabriole leg shape. The first part we will do is the shaft (the straight part of the leg.) When Charles did this, he cut both straight sides on the table saw. He also pointed out that due to the diameter of the large blank, this can be dangerous, taking into account that the wood could pinch the blade, causing a kick back if a splitter or riving knife is not used on your table saw. Another alternative is to use a band saw with a fence and the blade set to eliminate drift. I've decided to use my table saw, but contrary to Charles' advise, I do not have a splitter or riving knife (not the way I recommend doing it, either), so I will have take other precautions . The way I cut the shaft on the table saw is by cutting a little at time, making several passes, say a third of the depth each pass, therefore minimizing the possibility of kick back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on the type of table saw you have, you may want to do the cuts in steps, more or less. As Charles points out, you need to make sure you don't cut too far down past the transition point, by forgetting that the lower part of the blade cuts further than the portion of the blade seen on the top of the cut on the blank, so a stop will be put in place on the table saw fence to help avoid over-cutting into the knee area of our leg.
> Another point is to check each blank to make sure you're lining up on your shaft, instead just blindly cutting all the blanks, only to find one of the pieces of stock was a little wider or thinner than the others and cutting into your shaft.
> 
> After making our ripping cuts, we make our cross cuts by indexing of the foot side of our blank, making sure we don't cut too deep and scaring our leg. I'm using my Osborn miter gauge, but by adding a longer board and stop to a standard miter gauge, it can be done with your miter gauge. Charles also points out that it's best to index off of the foot, in case your blanks vary in length, so that your cross cuts end up where they should.
> 
> 
> 
> Now we move to the band saw and start cutting the contour. Charles points out that one of the most critical parts of this operation is the cutting out of the foot
> 
> 
> and the transition point from the stem to the knee.
> 
> One trick Charles has, is to keep your cut on the level, is by starting the cut, by going into the side of the leg and creating a kind of support by leaving a small section of wood and then cutting the rest of the contour. After carefully cutting out along the contour
> 
> 
> We tape the fall off (the pieces that were cut off) back on the side we just cut them off of, by taping it back on with masking tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and redrawing our cut-out lines over the areas covered by tape. We then proceed to the carefully cutting out of the other side of the contoured part of the leg.
> 
> Next time we will go back to the lathe to do some final shaping and sanding of the foot and pad. Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding and the legs are turning on the lathe. After the lathe work, shaping and smoothing begins, and this can be done with a variety of tools, including various spoke shaves of different shapes, rasps, files, drum sanders, oscillating spindle sanders or anything that will remove the wood and smooth and sand the contour of the legs. Charles points out for those who want to make exact measurements, to make the legs alike will drive themselves crazy. His statement that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike they are the alike".
> 
> After the legs are cut out
> 
> Remember, I gathered these techniques from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking". I feel it's a real bargain for only $20 a month and for at least four, 1 hour webisodes per month (it works out to only $ 5.00 a week.) As members, you can get DVDs off the webisodes also.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great blog Jim! I somehow managed to miss the earlier ones when they were posted but I'm definately following now.


----------



## a1Jim

* week*

Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6

Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.

Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs

Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.


Here's the point where we are starting from…











Now the shaping begins.























Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.






Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".



http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/



The knee after shaping.





Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.

Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"

http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


----------



## OutPutter

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Beautiful demonstration of master craftmanship. I don't know why anyone ever wanted to do this bad enough to figure it out in the first place but, wow, it does look impressive. Even more when you get to see the dirty back room fixins.

Keep up the blog Jim, you do a fantastic job of describing the process.

Best,


----------



## ND2ELK

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hi Jim

Very impressive build on the legs. I know this will be a wonderful piece of furniture when done. I have enjoyed your blog series on this. Thanks for posting.

God Bless
tom


----------



## grizzman

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


good job jim..i enjoy seeing a leg made that takes so much work and different machines to get it there…make one appreciate it when its done..this is a challange huh….getts the ole mind thinging…......lol…......no time for naps huh…lol….......ok…enough old jokes…thanks for the blog


----------



## Rotceh

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


great work and great description


----------



## Loucarb

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim,
Great tutorial on the legs. This has been a fantastic blog series. Well done.


----------



## charlie48

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim,
Great blog !! It has given me a renewed appreciationfor fine woodworking.Thanks for posting.I'm looking forward to next week.


----------



## Porosky

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Awesome Jim. The curves on this leg seem very deep and sweeping giving them a lot of character. Is this just a standard cut or does the design of this particular set of legs call for such extreme curves? They look great.


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great and detailed blog Jim. A wonderful result so far. Loved the Emmert vise too.

I can't help wondering if it would be easier to do the mortising before cutting out the leg shape. There is probably a good reason for this that I've missed.

Looking forward to the next chapter. Keep up the good work.


----------



## mwm5053

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great job on the leg and the blog. It's very interesting to see this done.


----------



## Hacksaw007

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Wow, humbling. I would have been reaching for my belt sander and orbital…....gulp. Old school ways are neat and great looking. You are amasing! Thanks for sharing.


----------



## mtkate

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Wonderful stuff! I love learning as you go…


----------



## gmerteng

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Really nice stuff jim the legs look great. Thanks for the posting.


----------



## Karson

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim A great job of shaping the legs. Nice job and a great set of instructions.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


thank´s for sharing
ceep let them come
I enjoy to see how you do it

Dennis


----------



## Eric_S

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim you're doing a great job on the blog and of course on the build as well. Watching this lowboy progress is impressive. Thanks for taking time away from the wood to document your progress with us.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks every one

poroskywood Cabriole legs differ according to the furniture your making but the curve is what make it distinctive
Mike depending on what equipment you have mortising before shaping the leg is a good choice
Autumn The Shinto file saw works great it sure made things easier on this project


----------



## RBWoodworker

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Mr. Jim.. I'm following this blog religiously.. looks great!!!

can you tell me where you got the bit for the rotary rasp on that foredom tooling? is the shaft 1/4" I use something simiular but struggle to find a new rasp bit for it..


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hey Randy
Here's a place that sells the burrs ,they work great.

http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/Saburr-Tooth-Carbide-Burrs-1_8/products/108/


----------



## LeeJ

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hey Jim;

You're doing a nice job on this, but that's no surprise.

Lee


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Well Jim, I guess I am a little late joining the blog this week, but I wanted to take my time and enjoy the read. It looks like you spent a lot of time sanding. The rhasp connected to the air tool was interesting, I've never seen anything like that. I like the Charles Neil quote,"if they look the same they are the same." A very good lesson in keep it simple. Your legs look great.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Lee and Bob

Bob the tool with the burr is an electric powered foredom that has a foot pedal for ease of control.


----------



## Kristoffer

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Can't beat a nice set of legs. Nice work.


----------



## blockhead

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Excellent job Jim! Great job of describing the process. It's out of my league, but I do enjoy watching them come to life.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #6
> 
> Let's address some points regarding shaping the legs. When watching Charles, he showed a number of ways to shape the legs and the process included a number of different tools and techniques. The approaches I have taken include some of those tools and Charles' techniques and some are my own experiments, to see what worked best for me. Ultimately, whatever works for you and gets the end results… that's the best for you as long as it's safe. After all, we all have different tools and experience.
> 
> Last week we started band sawing our cabriole legs for the lowboy and now we begin the shaping and sanding of the foot and pad and shaping of the legs
> 
> Here's all the cut off from bandsawing.
> 
> 
> Here's the point where we are starting from…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the shaping begins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though the legs look a bit scary during this operation, it can be done safely if you have the lathe speed turned down as low as possible and you're careful where your knuckles are when sanding, when the legs are turning on the lathe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charles points out, for those who want to make exact measurements, that to make the legs all alike, will drive themselves crazy. His statement, that he makes repeatedly regarding the legs, is, " if they look alike, they are alike".
> 
> 
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> 
> 
> The knee after shaping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next week we will move on to getting the legs grooved and morticed.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neils subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking"
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Kristoffer and Brad
With the cool stuff you make ,you could do it Brad.


----------



## a1Jim

* week *

Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7

Hey, ladies and gents!

Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.



http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg

After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.























A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.



Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!

I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.

Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".

Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


----------



## grizzman

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


atta boy jim…....ive really loved seeing you do this project…its looking good..and a atta boy for charles too. i dont know charles but from what i have seen hes a true gentleman and a fantastic wood worker…i look forward to the next instalment ..


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Grizz


----------



## HokieMojo

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I've enjoyed watching along too. Thanks for the contribution by you and Charles.


----------



## sras

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks for sharing this Jim! I am enjoying the story. I am sure you will do fine adapting to the unexpected as you progress.


----------



## charlie48

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim,
This is a great series.I'm looking forward to next week. Thanks for posting.


----------



## Timbo

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I've been following along, enjoying watching the progress, Thanks Jim Looking good!


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


great going jim ,

i am curious just when you put this in the wash ?
is it before or after it is finished (LOL) ?
must be why it calls for those elongated M &T's .


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks for checking it out gang


----------



## Qmoney

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great job Jim, awesome work always.


----------



## janice

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


This way to complicated for me. But I am enjoying the story too and can't wait to see this finished.


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looks good, and the legs turned out prematurly beautiful.

Now it looks as though your warming into the project and

getting quite a bit done.


----------



## studie

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Like all have said, very generous of you to share the build with us! What a great teacher))))


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looking real good so far Jim. Looking forward to the next installment.


----------



## Chipncut

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


*This is a great tutorial for all of us Jim.*


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks again everyone and Dick thanks for you help with the photo thing.


----------



## LeeJ

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hey Jim;

You're doing a great job with this! No wonder you are the "chosen one".

Beautiful…wait, do you get to keep it when you are done, or do you have to ship it back to Charles. Don't tell me you forgot to check. LOL

Lee


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Lee
Charles said that this project was about me having a good time building this lowboy and sharing and teaching with others and not about him and that I can do whatever I like with the finished Lowboy keep it sell it what ever. Just for those that might wonder It has been my choice to give Charles credit for the lowboy building process(because he's do it) not by any instructions from Charles. I'm guessing there will be others that Charles might give an opportunity to build one of his projects . I'm grateful he was kind enough to choose me this time.


----------



## Karson

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim Great progress. I got quite a bit of Genuine Mahogany and some of it came from a firewood pile and I can tell the effects of sunlight on it. I've still got it in a pile in my driveway.

I've got some light (Almost egg yellow) and darker brown. I keep wondering if it's sapwood VS heart wood or a slightly different species. But it was all sold as genuine mahogany.

I've also got some pieces of African mahogany and I find that it is darker in color.

Your build seems to be coming along.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Karson 
I think charles has a way to equilize The different Shades of wood


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Autumn it's good to know . It's been the same with me I always enjoy your great blogs but don't comment every time but still keep watching.


----------



## Grumpy

a1Jim said:


> * week *
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #7
> 
> Hey, ladies and gents!
> 
> Last week, on the lowboy project, we had shaped one leg and had gone through the initial shaping, step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad116/woodwokerplus/Charles%205/compleatedfett.jpg
> 
> After working and re-working the legs to be nearly finished, I find in this week's webisode that I should have left the area, from the knees up, roughed in (as Charles said in an earlier webisode), due to the upcoming step of installing and shaping the knee blocks or ears, that are attached to the leg. Oh well, I'll still do my best to make it come out okay. I'm sure it will all come out in the wash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A point I should make, is that the sides and back of the lowboy will have the center mortise and tenons glued in place and the top and bottom mortise and tenons will have tenons with elongated holes and pegs to allow for wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice the color difference between the three pieces of mahogany, as noted. The center one is African mahogany, which is less expensive and more difficult to finish, but Charles sent it for me to use on the back of the lowboy and also, for me to see for myself the difference between the genuine mahogany and the African mahogany. Not only did Charles supply the mahogany, but he milled and sanded it before shipping it to me. What a guy!
> 
> I'm hoping that I can get the next installment by the middle of next week. Then I'll be milling the back and sides, and with any luck, I'll even get to the front scroll board.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> 
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful dovetailed blanket chest with two lower drawers and cabriole feet. So if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great blog Jim,


----------



## a1Jim

*week*

Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8

Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels. 
Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
#1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
#2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
#3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling. 
#4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
#5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks. 


#6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness. 


#7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.




Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll. 
Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.


You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.

Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.


The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.


Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)



I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.


After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.



Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.



I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.


This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.


The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .

Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs

Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


----------



## pommy

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim your going great guns on this LITTLE project lol she is going to look stunning when she is finished mate and a great learning blog for us newbie's to fine furniture making

Andy


----------



## Rotceh

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I think that is a interesting work, you must to have good skills, patience and order. I want say:" thanks for show us, how it must to do it ", and thank you for all your post jim, you forever have a good words for all people proyects. I think that this words say that you are better person than craftman, and your are a great craftman.


----------



## SPalm

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thank you Jim.
How inspiring. 
You have a wonderful touch,
Steve


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Keep up the good work.


----------



## Qmoney

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great job, nice project its looking fantastic.


----------



## Pete_Jud

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Love it, keep us up to date, and are you doing any video of the project?


----------



## mpmitche

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


It looks great Jim, I can't wait to see the rest of it come together.


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Sneaking…nice looking wood, I like watching your technique for matching the mortise and tenon.


----------



## ArcticTroy

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looks good. Mahogany is great material. (A little concerned you didn't have a splitter on the table saw…)


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks everyone
I've never done a video Pete but maybe towards the end if I can figure that out.
Troy I've never used a splitter or guard in 21 year but it doesn't mean there not worth having or using


----------



## Ken90712

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great work Jim. I don't have a splitter or guard either. Did not learn with one, although have been thinking of a splitter after using one in a class I recently took. Look fwd to seeing the progress.


----------



## Eagle1

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great post Jim. I always like seeing them. By theway congrats on the 30,000 posts..


----------



## tdv

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great way to share your skills Jim really enjoying the updates
God bless


----------



## Chipncut

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


*You're doing a great job Jim.

I'll be waiting for the next installment.*


----------



## mwm5053

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Really enjoying this Jim 
Thanks


----------



## blockhead

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


You are really getting this thing knocked out Jim. I can't wait to see what's next.


----------



## ND2ELK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Your Loyboy is coming along nicely. Very informative blog. Thanks for posting.

God Bless
tom


----------



## Cher

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks for sharing all your hard work Jim.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks again everyone 
Autumn Sometimes we all want to race ahead to the fun part of the project but if we do we can run into trouble. The larger photos are suggestions and help from Dick (Dick and Barb Cain) thanks again Dick.


----------



## Chipncut

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


*Thanks for the kudos about help with your the pictures, Jim.*

That's what LJs is all about.

*You sure don't need any help when it comes to woodworking though.*


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, episode #8
> 
> Ok gang, we have our legs and they're mortised and tenoned. The next step is to cut out the front, back and side panels.
> Before I go further, let's review some basics, going back to the beginning.
> #1. Select wood with the figure you want, check its quality and moisture content. Thanks Charles.
> #2. Let wood acclimate to its new environment, for as long as possible. (It's been 6 weeks).
> #3. Double check the dimensions before rough cutting and milling.
> #4. Rough-cut material and let it acclimate as long as possible. (Only 4 days, but we should be fine)
> #5. Re-check the wood for new defects, such as cupping, twisting, and checks.
> 
> 
> #6. Check rough cut material before cutting for squareness and flatness.
> 
> 
> #7. Double check the measurements for secondary cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I'm ready to rock and roll.
> Now that I have the secondary cuts made, I've set up my router table to make the long tenons on all of the sides and back material, but first I score the edge to be cut, with a marking gauge. This is the type of marking gauge with a blade and not just a pin. That way, it cuts the wood instead of just making a scratch mark on the wood.
> 
> 
> You might note that I'm using the term secondary cuts; the point being is that I don't make the final cuts until I absolutely have too. Another benefit in doing things this way is that if you have blowout, aka, tear- out, when routing or sawing or problems in your first cut, you have another shot at having the cut come out right the second time, with the extra material you still have. Charles calls it, "having a way out", and I agree whole-heartedly.
> Okay, now I have the router table set up and the material scribed.
> 
> Now I make the first cuts, but again, I take the cautious approach and only cut a third of the way down on our cut. This minimizes the chances of tear-out.
> 
> 
> The cuts I'm making will ultimately be cut down as tenons, to fit in the legs. One side will be cut deeper than the other side; this means that I have to select which side I want as the outside of the backs and sides and that the tenon ends up the same thickness as the outside edge of our legs.
> I also have to make sure the tenons are the correct thickness for our mortises.
> 
> 
> Now that I have cut both sides of the tenon on the router table (note: this can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but might involve making two passes if your dado will not cut 7/8 wide.)
> 
> 
> 
> I lay out the tenons by putting my back and sides alongside the legs by marking where the mortises have already been made. Be careful here, because the mortises on the back and sides are offset and you could mismark a tenon, if your leg is not orientated properly.
> 
> 
> After marking them, out I place Xs on the tenons, so I won't mistakenly cut the tenon off.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I set up a stop on the band saw, so as not to cut too far onto the faces of the sides and back.
> 
> 
> 
> I now use the band saw to rough out the tenons. Notice, I leave a small, 1/8th ", or so while band sawing. This is to fit into our grooves that we made on the router table.
> 
> 
> This also helps keep the panel in place after assembly and then afterwards, it keeps the panels from bowing outward during the times there will be wood movement.
> 
> 
> The next step is to fit the tenons into the mortises on the legs. This is a process that may take some time but it's best not to rush it. You defenatly don't want to force your tenons in by hammering them in. A good fit is important, so as Charles say, s sneak up on it. (Do a little at a time) .
> 
> Next time I will finish fitting the sides and back and have it up on its legs
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Charles will be starting a new project soon, so if you've thought about signing up for his "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes, now would be a great time.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great continuation Jim and very interesting with a lot of good learning points. About the splitter, I do think it's a good idea, but experienced woodworkers are usually in the habit of standing to the side of the workpiece being cut so a kickback won't hit them. Passive safety devices are great, but the greatest safety device is still our brain. Just ask the folks at BP who didn't use theirs.


----------



## a1Jim

*week*

Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9

Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!

When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs. 
I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.






I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible. 


I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.





All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation. 
Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.





The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.

Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


----------



## mtkate

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Oh my goodness - those tenons look great. This thing is coming along so well.


----------



## albachippie

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I am enjoying this series a lot Jim, learning new things with each post.

Thanks for the update,

Garry


----------



## twokidsnosleep

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Love the joinery !
Something to aspire to


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


well done , jim .

a great tutorial !

is that a #49 or #50 PM file ?

id hate to do this wrong !


----------



## RjGall

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Lookin Good Jim ! I'm with Patron, I'd hate to mess this up Charles would never let you live this one down …It has to add some extra pressure on you!


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks gang
I don't remember what # file that is. David
RJ …NO PRESSURE

#8 comming up soon


----------



## Karson

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim Another notch in the belt. Great job.


----------



## ND2ELK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looking great Jim. You make it look sooo easy. Keep the great blogs coming.

God Bless
tom


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


jim , i got your back ,
i got both of them !
just holler if that one gets to hot (LOL) !


----------



## FatherHooligan

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Very inspiring, thanks to both of you!


----------



## tdv

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great work Jim thanks for taking the trouble to photograph the progress. Will it remain on your home page as a reference for when I build mine?
God bless
Trevor


----------



## Qmoney

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great job looks fantastic.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thank you all it's been a fun process so far.


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Well I'm off to part 8 two e-mail notices saying a1Jim is busy today…


----------



## LeeJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


It's looking good Jim.

Lee


----------



## mattg

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


That first dry fit is always exciting!!!


----------



## DAWG

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looks great and thanks for sharing. Remember to take plenty of pictures, some of us grew-up reading books with more pictures than words. Just saying.


----------



## BillyJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


This is a great series. I'm enjoying watching your craftsmanship in progress. Keep those great pictures coming.


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great to see the piece coming together Jim. It looks like first class craftsmanship to me. I love that part of a project. All the fussing to get those mortises and tenons is absolutely necessary and you have covered that extremely well for those who are new to this and also to remind those of us who aren't what to check to get a perfect fit.


----------



## charlie49

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #9
> 
> Back in episode #6, when Nell was about to be run over by the train…I kid!
> 
> When I left you last time, I had just cut the tenons and was in the process of fitting them to the mortises on the legs.
> I continue with a little more cleaning up of the tenons with the pattern makers file and check the leg mortises for proper depth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I continue with the fitting of the mortise and tenon, being careful not to force the tenons, and make sure there is room for wood movement at the top and bottom tenons on the sides and back. The middle tenons will be glued in place.
> Fitting process is as follows: fit tenons; check to see why they don't fit (if indeed they don't) then check to see if the tenon lines up with the mortise. If not, it's necessary to trim the mortise by using a chisel, rasp, or by sanding the tenon. Next, after seeing if the tenon lines up, then check to see if the tenon is the correct thickness to fit the mortise. If corrections are needed, you can trim the tenon with a shoulder plane or the same tools already used. If after taking these steps and you're still having problems, check the shoulders and make sure they are not obstructing the fit. Finally, if the tenons still don't fit, look for obstructions in your mortise and make sure there aren't any bumps or chips that have not been removed.
> Along with the fitting of the mortise and tenons, you must also check the fit of the sides and back to the legs and make sure the gap is as tight as possible.
> 
> 
> I do preliminary clamping of the sides and back to see that the joint of the two is tight, when gluing them together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of this may seem elementary to many, but I thought I'd include mortise and tenon fitting, for those who have never done this operation.
> Now that I have all of the sides and back fitted, I have lift off! The lowboy now stands for the first time, with three sides fitted and ready for the next step.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step includes, making our pattern for the scroll board and cutting and fitting it into place. I should have that posted later in the day.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles', "Mastering Woodworking," webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instructions, make it possible to make projects you've never thought you were capable of creating.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hi, Jim. When you're done with this beauty, what do you anticipate using for finish?
Goodness, the talent I see on this web site, including yours still amazes me.
Charlie

Belton, Mo


----------



## a1Jim

*week*

Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along 
with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!

Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.

Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.



Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.



I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.




After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.



After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.


After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go. 
After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".


Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line. 
The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.


I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!


Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,




it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.



The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.



Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.

Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


----------



## tdv

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Really coming on now Jim I like the neat trick with the blue tape as a blade marker I usually use pencil foget to rub it off & get confused on the next project I will use that one in future 
Thanks
Trevor


----------



## Qmoney

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Awesome job and great design. Superb work.


----------



## Karson

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim: Some additional "Atta Boys" Nice job.


----------



## dustbunny

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim,
This sure is looking good !!
Waiting for the next episode…

Lisa


----------



## Brat700

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great job


----------



## Close

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Wow looking good can't wait to se the rest and the finish product


----------



## sandhill

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Nice job on this posting Jim I don't know where you get the time to document all your work if I took the time to do all that picture taking and documenting I would not get any building done the way you take time to describe all the steps is talent above the building part. Thanks

I am building my cabinets starting next week and will be lucky to get pictures of the finished job, the wife is cracking the whip to get it done.


----------



## thatwoodworkingguy

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


So nice Jim. Absoloutly love it


----------



## Hacksaw007

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


You are a master! Great looking can't wait till you go to finish it…...


----------



## DocK16

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great series so far Jim, nice to be along for the ride, but I wish I were building one too.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks all I hope it's worth the visit.


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Band saw is one of my favorite tools, the shapes you were cutting looked like

lots of fun to make!!! Was sweating there with the table saw cut, I'd have probably

cut to far even with the tape mark on the fence. Also got me to thinking that I

need to buy a spindle sander….I still use the little drum kit connected to the drill

press, not as fun as your toy!!! Excellent build Jim, it's taking shape!!!


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hey Bob
A spindle sander I think is a real buy is the table top model by Ridgid it has and attachment to put a belt sander that will oscillate too. As a matter of fact Charles showed one on this build.


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


great blog jim ,
you do us proud !

attaboy (LOL) !


----------



## Dennisgrosen

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Oh boy - Oh boy looks good from here
can´t wait for the next toturials
thank´s for sharing Jim

Dennis


----------



## Eagle1

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


It looks like its coming along real well Jim keep up the good work.


----------



## Timbo

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great to see the progress Jim, thanks for taking the time to take all the pics.


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim,

I already have a nice belt sander, I would really like the jet bench top one, it tilts,

has diffrent size drums, and is small enough for my shop.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


The sander I was talking about was Ridgid Bob


----------



## sandhill

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim I picked up the Rigid about a year ago when I had to sand some holes that were drilled at a 15 degree angle. I love it, real nice machine. I have not needed to use the belt attachment so far because I use my 6" belt sander with a 10" disk I get a lot of use from it as well. Next I will be picking up a drum sander. I think the Jet 22/44 when the cash reserve builds up a bit. I am building a set 6 Adirondack chairs with foot rests in Easter egg colors so I am getting closer to the goal of 2K another small job and I will be there.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Sandhill
That should be a great addition to your shop that 22/44 Is that the one that oscillates?


----------



## LeeJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


You're doing a great job Jim.

Are you keeping track of the hours you're putting in on this?

Lee


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Lee 
It's kind of hard to keep track of time plus there's a lot of stopping and moving the camera for the blog.


----------



## woodpeckerbill

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Really a nice how to series. Lots a work just to make a blog. You are the right man for this job!
Bill


----------



## clieb91

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim, Looks great Thanks for the very informative blog. Looking forward to the completed project.

I know how you feel about laying things down in the shop I just brought stuff home and umpacked the bag, 10 minutes later it took me 5 minutes to find stuff I just took out.

CtL


----------



## sras

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


This is a very informative blog on a challenging piece of furniture. Thanks for sharing Jim!


----------



## mattg

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looking good, Jim!!!


----------



## knotbuster

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim, this is very cool! It looks so much like a furniture piece that my dad, who was a primo woodworker, made many years ago and is in our home! You do good work and I really appreciate your helpful blog!


----------



## Chipncut

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


*Keep it coming Jim.

Really nice.*


----------



## Grumpy

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great blog Jim


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 10
> I'm now ready to start the scroll board. I begin by using the pattern of the scroll board Charles sent along
> with the wood he furnished . Guess what? I looked all around my shop for more than an hour, moving things, and picking up things. I went to some locations three times, but no pattern. My only alternative was to go to the "Mastering Woodworking " website and print the PDF file, and I did, but in checking the printed PDF, I found the printed pattern does not match the dimensions that Charles gave on the webisodes. So my next step was to keep adjusting the size percentage on my printer and finally, success!
> 
> Last time, I finished fitting the sides and got the case up and standing on its own.
> 
> Okay, so now the pattern's printed and glued on some ¼ ply and all cut out and sanded.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I draw the scroll board design, one half at a time, on the board that I'd already cut tenons out on, when I cut the tenons on the back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I now have the pattern drawn out on the scroll board. The first thing I cut will be the very end of the straight lines that will eventually be drawers. This cut is just long enough to start forming the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making these cuts, I go to the band saw and cut enough off of the cuts made on the table saw to start work on the tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> After those cuts are made, I measure ¼" on each side of the tenon to have an offset on the edge of the scroll board.
> 
> 
> After that, I'm back at the band saw and cut these ¼" pieces off of the tenon,
> leaving just a small shoulder to be trimmed with a chisel and pattern makers file. This is done with great care to make sure the exposed area is not damaged. After trimming all four sides I'm ready to hold the scroll board up to the case and mark out where the mortises will go.
> After marking out the areas for the mortises, I place a temporary support in place and remove the leg
> for mortising. As before, I put a block under the leg for clearance of the leg and then mortise the previously marked area. Before I replace the leg, I do a test-fit of the mortise and tenon, then after checking both sides, I re-install the legs.
> A point to make here is that it's important not to have too tight of a fit, because once the scroll board is cut out, this area is very weak, because it's very thin… only about 1 1/8".
> 
> 
> Now I do a test fit of the scroll board to see how it fits and make any adjustment as necessary when fitting the scroll boards' mortise and tenons. I need to make sure I have about an 1/8" up and down movement off the scroll board, to allow for a offset pegging ( more on that later. )
> Now for some extra fun, I start to band saw out the scroll board, taking my time to make sure I leave the pencil line.
> The last band saw cut follows the straight lines that I cut out on the table saw and completes the cuts.
> 
> 
> I now go to the spindle sander and clean up the band saw marks. In order to use the spindle sander, I had to move some sandpaper and scraps of wood off of the edge sander, next to the spindle sander and guess what I found? You guessed it!... under all that stuff, was the pattern drawn out by Charles!
> 
> 
> Now you know why I like a clean shop. It saves time and makes it easier to work.
> After cleaning up the band saw marks on the spindle sander,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's time for another test fit. Before I do the test fit, I clamp a board across the weak point of the scroll board, to be sure that I don't break the scroll board at its weak point.
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing I check is how tight the joint of the scroll board is to the leg.
> 
> 
> 
> Next time, we will get started on the drawer dividers.
> 
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode, "Mastering Woodworking".
> Signing up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes has been a great experience for me and his step-by-step instruction makes it possible to make projects you never thought you could.
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great stuff. And welcome to the club Jim on finding that pattern too late! A daily occurrence in my shop. That is going to be a very nice piece of furniture and I think quite a few will want to build it with your wonderful blog and step by step detailed instructions.


----------



## a1Jim

*week*

Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11

When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.



Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.

, I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.

After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.











After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.





Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.








This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board



, then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.


I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit


and then with the dovetail router bit.


This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.

I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.



My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,



to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw


and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,





I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out



. Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!




Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail

and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,



mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.




After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.

The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.


All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.







Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


----------



## JackBarnhill

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Wow, Jim. I really enjoy the process blog. The lowboy is coming along nicely.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Keep at it Jim  This is a little over my head, but fun to watch it come out.


----------



## sandhill

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Did you say you were building 6 of them? :=)


----------



## beckerswoodworks

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks for such a detailed blog. It's really cool seeing how you put this together and it's going to be an amazing piece when it's complete.


----------



## woodnwonders

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


well beyond my capabilities for now, but interesting learning how it's done. looks like it will be an awesome lowboy when finished


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


excellent work , jim , 
as usual .

this gives me hope ,

i have the same yellow pencil ,
and square .

i even have some blown wood too !


----------



## Eagle1

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looks like its coming along real well Jim. Thanks of the photos.I can't wait for the finished pics.


----------



## b2rtch

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Very interesting to see the techniques you use. 
Thank you for sharing Jim.


----------



## Qmoney

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great job jim.


----------



## Eric_S

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Excellent blog jim. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## Cher

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks for the blog Jim. It is superb.


----------



## CharlesNeil

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


excellent Jim, just excellent…


----------



## grizzman

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


so much fun watching this process, its a great project with enough challenge to it…and its great to see you work through it…keep on plugging away…soon it will be time for the finish and you can stand back and enjoy the fruits of your labor…grizzman


----------



## mtkate

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I've seen Charles do it in his DVD… And I see your pictures. The next tenons I make will be on the router table! Thanks for continuing this wonderful blog.


----------



## scrollgirl

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


This is really a great story. Much of it is over my head, but seeing the process the way you break it down really clarifies what you are doing. Thanks for taking the time to share.

Sheila


----------



## followyourheart

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great stuff, Jim. I'm glad to see that you, too, have mistakes now and then!


----------



## SPalm

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Boy it is fun watching other people think things out.
Thanks so much for this blog.

You do fine work sir,
Steve


----------



## BritBoxmaker

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Very entertaining, informative and detailed blog, Jim. Nice to know that I'm not the only one to suffer from forgetting to do things and having over 100 mile round trip to the 'local' hardwood dealer.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks every one this has been a fun process. This goes to should if you rush through a particular part of a project you feel is easy that's were you get in trouble. This Divider problem happen for the following reasons first I didn't follow the principles Charles teaches buy being in a hurry I didn't leave extra material ,I didn't pre cut the the ends on the table saw, and didn't double check my measurements. I think it helps others with their projects by being open about any mistakes I make.

Thanks for taking a look


----------



## DAWG

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks for sharing Jim and thanks for all the pictures it really helps to follow what your doing. Who knows how many Mahogany lowboy's wil be made by Lumberjocks when your done.


----------



## woodpeckerbill

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks for the tutorial Jim. Superb job.
Bill


----------



## tenhoeda

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Another great write up Jim. Really enjoying following you along on this. I keep telling myself I am going to brave the cabriole legs one day.


----------



## pommy

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim thats coming along just great there buddy cant wait for the final pics


----------



## BertFlores58

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Jim, I learned a lot on your joinery techniques. I am jealous about the equipment however this blog inspire me that I can still do it manually with my chisel, saw and planes.


----------



## tdv

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


It's shaping up nicely Jim, by the way I love the honesty. I still rush it sometimes & pay the price it's re-assuring to know I'm not alone
Cheers
Trevor


----------



## Karson

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim A fine job that you are doing. Looking great.


----------



## lumberdustjohn

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Keep up the blogs, Your doing a great job!


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks again every one
It takes a fair amount of time to do blogs It's good to know there's an interest.


----------



## kenn

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I have a huge interest in this blog and you are doing great keeping us involved in all of the steps. It's a difficult project but gets easier when somebody skilled breaks it down into managable steps. Keep posting, Thanks.


----------



## mpmitche

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looking great Jim, this project has been great to follow. I can't wait to see how it comes out.


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


It's good to see someone so talented hit so many bumps in the road!!!!

Well I'm much luckier then you Jim, the hard wood guy is only 17 miles from

my house, and on saturdays, there are to small mills that will get me rough sawn

(no milling) stock. Your project is looking good.


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hey Jim. I agree with Autumn that sharing mistakes is also very instructive and surely will save someone else a lot of grief. The blog continues to be great and well detailed for each step.


----------



## Ken90712

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #11
> 
> When I left you, back in installment # 8, I had just finished cutting out and installing the scroll board. The next step is to mill out the drawer dividers. First, make sure that both sides of the scroll board measure an equal distance, down from the top of the legs. After clamping the scroll board where it belongs, I then cut out a scrap piece of MDF, to be used as a spacer and clamp it in place.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to check out where the lower divider goes and check my measurements.
> 
> , I cut all of the ends of the divider stock on the top and bottom dividers. The bottom divider gets routed on all four sides and the top rail, on three sides.
> 
> After laying out for dual tenons on each side of the bottom tenon, I cut them out on the band saw, using the same clean-up procedure as with the scroll board tenons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After some trial fits, I have the lower divider in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next, I work on the short dividers that go between the scroll board and the lower divider. While the lower divider is in place, I measure and mark where the small dividers go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This marks where the router will cut. Now I place marks alongside each side of the cut on the scrape board
> 
> 
> 
> , then I mark the center divider where the small dividers with the dovetail will go, all the way around the stock.
> 
> 
> I clamp the stock to the scrap and router the divider out. A point to make here, is that I actually do this in two steps, first with a straight router bit
> 
> 
> and then with the dovetail router bit.
> 
> 
> This helps keep the stock in place with two lighter cuts, rather than one heavy cut and with one router bit, it also will reduce the possibility of serious tear out. Now our center divider has the dovetails routed in the proper place. Now it's time to cut out some small stock and get ready to mill the upright short dividers.
> 
> I replace the router tables' fence and make a sort of sled to carry the short stock and then cut the male part of the dovetail joint.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up took some time to get close enough to do a trial fit on a scrap I had cut just for fitting purposes. It took even longer to get close enough to actually get the dovetail to start to fit into the female part. After probably 3 hours I decided that my fence and make-shift jig was not accurate enough to get a tight fit, but not too tight, so I cut the dovetail as close as I could with my router set- up and hand fit the two dovetails. It took a total of 4 ½ hours for two dovetails. I've never had such a battle, cutting and fitting dovetails before. The dovetails are sized in the center divider and ready to be put back in the case for a test fit. I check the fit and now draw a line were the bottom section of the short vertical dividers will be trimmed,
> 
> 
> 
> to fit behind the scroll board. After marking the short dividers, I make the long, straight cuts on the table saw
> 
> 
> and finish up on the band saw, cutting out the half-lap area, similar to how I started cutting out the scroll board. After some test fits and adjustments with the rasp and chisel, they're in place with a tight, but not too tight fit. It's good to note that wood swells to a degree and if you make the sliding dove tail joint too tight, you may break the center divider. It also helps to use hide glue, because it is slipperier then yellow glue. Now, on to the top divider. It is connected by placing dovetails on the divider and cutting them into the top of the legs. I start by drawing out a 14 degree dovetail on the top divider that has already been cut on the router table and at the same time, I routered the center divider. After marking both sides,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I go back to the band saw and cut both sides out
> 
> 
> 
> . Uh-oh! I fit the top divider and what's this?...A 3/16 gap between the divider and the leg; the one I just cut out. Oh, dang. Oh well, I'll just make another one. This part isn't that hard. But oh-no, there's no extra mahogany. But wait, I think I bought some off of e-Bay a couple years ago. I'm moving this pile of wood around and there… that looks like mahogany. Is it long enough? Yes, oh but, is it thick enough? Oh wow, it is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just go buy some? Because it's Sunday and the nearest wood dealer is 120 miles, round trip. Okay, I've got the material and go through the steps: I joint it, cut it to size, draw out the dove tail and then off to the band saw. Half way through the band sawing, I realize that I didn't router out three sides, like I had the orginal. I'll just do that afterwards. WRONG! The second piece blows up. Alright, I'll make another, now that I have the material. I won't go into any more detail, but I'm on #4 and now it finally fits. I finally take the #4 top divider and draw with a sharp pencil around the dovetail
> 
> and also use a sharp chisel to imprint the top lines,
> 
> 
> 
> mark the thickness to establish the depth of the area on the leg to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making sure my area to be cleaned out is well marked, I now take my dovetail saw and cut down the side lines of the area to be removed.
> 
> The quick way to remove a large amount of material is to use a forestner bit and drill from the top down to the line that marked the thickness off the dividers dovetail.
> 
> 
> All that's left to do is carefully chiseling out the remaining waste and fitting the dovetail and of course, repeating the same operation on the other side of the top divider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time I will be cutting out the side scroll work and hopefully get started on the knee block.
> Remember, the techniques I've gathered are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great blog, just got done with reading all of them. I found them very interesting! Keep up the good work.


----------



## a1Jim

*week*

Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12

When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails




by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.



It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.



After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges



and then trace the pattern on the side panel.



Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel





(oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons





that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place


and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",




then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon

. Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother






. These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.



I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole

. After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs




. Now the pegs are hammered in place 


with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.



After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.





The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.




After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.

The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.

Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


----------



## littlecope

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim, I'm a late-comer to this project, arriving last episode, but I've read it now from the beginning…
You're doing a Great Job on both the Blog and the Build, my Friend!!
It's going to be excellent…


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Mike


----------



## sandhill

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim you are really moving along with the LOW BOY and doing a fine job as I see.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Nice work.


----------



## Karson

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim: A great series. Nice construction techniques.


----------



## OttoH

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looking great Jim, I like seeing how your projects are done, and I appreciate you sharing them with us. Please keep it up, you are giving a lot of valuable tips to many individuals.


----------



## grizzman

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


you sure are doing a wonderful job for a green horn….lol…im wondering if any of those 1000 routers will be used on this build…i imagine you have a name for each one….ha…...this is such a nice project to help us with techniques …keep up the great work jim….grizz


----------



## DocK16

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Coming along nicely Jim, This is going to be one nice piece when finished. Lowboy is definitely on my bucket list. Getting a good look at the process from your blog, many thanks


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


thanks gang
Grizz no routers were injuried in the filming of this blog. How did you know about that green horn I had it removed years ago. LOL


----------



## grizzman

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


jim there have been rumors going around Oregon for a long time about a guy who had too many routers…they say he cut the green horn out himself….so the legend goes….lol…....


----------



## Loucarb

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Fantastic job Jim. You've sure put a lot of effort into a great blog & build. Well done & thanks for sharing the knowledge.


----------



## ND2ELK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Really coming along nicely. Excellent blogs on your progress. Thanks for posting.

God Bless
tom


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


excellent !
to you and charles both my best felt thank you .

i have meet guys with 6 years of schooling ,
that don't match your knowledge or work ethics ,
thanks for giving us all this opportunity to see how things are really done ,
and done right !


----------



## Qmoney

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Awesome job looks really great.


----------



## rcs47

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim,

You are doing an excellent job in documenting your process for all of us. You go into enough detail when needed, i.e., only gluing the center of the panel to allow for movement. I really like your pictures too.

I look forward to your future updates.


----------



## Chelios

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim

The pegs technique is awesome. I really can't wait to try this. So those pegged tennons really don't take any glue right?

The lowboy is looking good


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Tnanks again every one.
Chelios
The only thing you glue is the *very top* of the pegs on the top and bottom tenons.


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


looking good jim, ditto on what Patron, said!!!!


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Jim. I really liked learning the technique to allow for wood movement on those wide panels. Great stuff. It's good to see the project coming together so nicely. Creating such a blog with all the text and photos takes a lot of time and I really appreciate the commitment you have to all of us in the LJ community.


----------



## mtkate

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


What a great job on the scroll work. It's beautiful.


----------



## Cher

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim thanks for this excellent blog, you make it look so easy.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim
thank´s for another great toturial
it´s realy a pleasure to see a master working
I just hope that one day I will have the knowledge
and the guts to try something like this…....maybee in 20 years time

take care
Dennis


----------



## Eric_S

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Very cool Jim. Excellent work.

What kind of drill bit is that? A drill saw? Never heard of that one. 
Is it kind of like the bits used in a rotozip?


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks again gang
Eric
It is a drill saw here's one place that carries them

http://doitbest.com/Drill+bits-Best+Way+Tools-model-51625-doitbest-sku-396931.dib


----------



## LeeJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Nice job, Jm.

Lee


----------



## mattg

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great job Jim!! I hope to be a LJ'er again this Fall!!!


----------



## BillyJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Keep up the great work, Jim. I appreciate you sharing your great experience.


----------



## mpmitche

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great looking project Jim. I really like the look of the squre pegs and that is very ingenious jointery. I am always fascinated with the number of ways out there to allow the wood to move, this one is very nice looking.


----------



## tdv

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #12
> 
> When I left you last time, I'd just finished with installing the drawer dividers. Now, I finish the top rail dovetails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by cleaning the sockets with a chisel, until the top of the dovetail is flush with the top.
> Now I need to trim the top even with the top of the legs.
> 
> 
> 
> It's time to turn my attention to the side scrolls. I start by printing out the PDF that Charles provides for subscribers of his "Mastering Woodworking" series.
> 
> 
> 
> After gluing it to some 1/4" ply, I cut it out and clean up the edges
> 
> 
> 
> and then trace the pattern on the side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, as I did on the front scroll board, I cut the sides out on the band saw and sand it smooth on the spindle sander and clean it up with the patternmakers file and some hand sanding. After a test fit of the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (oh man, that looks sweet), I move on to marking the center of the tenons
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that have already been trimmed and fitted and mark the legs for wood pegging. I start with the back and start the drilling process. The top and bottom tenons have pegs and are not glued, to allow for wood movement, but the center tenon is glued in place. I start by having the back clamped in place
> 
> 
> and already having the centered mark on center on the legs, I drill the top and bottom tenons enough to have pegs go through the leg and through the tenon, but not deep enough to go all of the way through the leg. The next set is to slide the back down approximately 1/8",
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then I drill the top and bottom tenons again, through the first hole drilled in the legs. I now remove the back that reveals the two holes I have drill in the top and bottom tenon
> 
> . Next I use a drill saw and make the elongated holes, cleaner and smoother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . These holes are to allow for wood movement, so I want to make sure there is free movement. The next step is to make the wooden pegs and as suggested by Charles, I'm using cherry for the pegs.
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cutting the cherry in ¼"X ¼" pieces. These are cut to about 2" sections, then I take the pegs and sharpen one end in a pencil sharpener, just enough to get one rounded end. Now I take a peg and hammer it to round it part of the way down through a metal plate with a ¼" hole
> 
> . After the end is rounded, I then use a disc sander to sand the peg to size, after using a knife to clean up the curled wood from the metal plate operation and I have a peg that is round on the bottom and square on the top. Now the back is put into place and the center hole is drill in the center tenon. The last step before assembly is to use a punch with a square shoulder to punch in the hole that has already been drilled in the legs to indent a square. Next I glue the mortise and tenon and assemble the back to the legs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now the pegs are hammered in place
> 
> 
> with the center peg glued top to bottom and the others just glued on the top of the peg as to not impede the wood movement.
> 
> 
> 
> After the pegs are in place and the glue is dry, they're cut off and sanded smooth, revealing the square top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front is now assembled with spacers to insure good clamping pressure and to maintain square.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After the front and back are together and dry, both sides are put in place using the same method as used on the back.
> 
> The next time I will be making and installing the drawer frames.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Getting really exciting now Jim I know there's still away to go but I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished piece
God bless
Trevor


----------



## a1Jim

*week*

Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13

At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.


To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.






I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.





This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.

I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry



. After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one







, making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.






Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.

Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.

The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.


I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.



This is where I will continue next time.

Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


moving right along here jim ,
looking good too .

can;t wait to see the final work ,

i have a watch ,
and a square too .
i might try this someday !


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I'm sure you would be alot quicker David


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


not me , jim .

i'm still waiting to finish my starburts table !


----------



## tenhoeda

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Nice Jim. I look forward to see your progress on this every week.


----------



## DAWG

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looks great so far Jim, thanks for sharing.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Lookin Good Jim.


----------



## zlatanv

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I second the trammel points, nice work.


----------



## Dez

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Love this blog Jim!
I built an assembly table with 2 edges that I could raise above the top, providing a square corner I could use to square up the part, having gotten tired of moving the trammel/tape corner to corner. I just clamped the assembly to the raised edges.
I really appreciate the effort taken to include us in this project!


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looking good Jim, I never thought of using trammel arm for checking square, very cool idea!!!

The build is looking great. Skip & Marty….The Mickey Mouse show??? You were a mousekateer?


----------



## tdv

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Jim for all the hard work you put in on our behalf with all the detail I'm definitely going to use this as a reference guide when I make mine . I have 3 more projects on the go at the moment but I can't wait to start this. Thanks again Jim, by the way that looks to be a fantastic shop you have there from what you see in the background
God bless
Trevor


----------



## Eagle1

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great progress Jim. Keep up the great work..


----------



## douginaz

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hi all, Nice work as always Jim, the trammels are a great tip. I wonder about the wisdom of mounting those dust shelves rigid as you did, the difference in the wood species expanding and shrinking at different rates is not a concern? They looked pretty tight?

Have a great day. 
Later,
Doug in AZ.


----------



## SPalm

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I also like the trammel points usage for square.
Why didn't I think of that? It's brilliant.

Thanks for the approval for Poplar drawer sides. I always wondered if that was OK.

Good build Sir,
Steve


----------



## Karson

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim: it' coming along great. A nice series of photos.


----------



## Stevinmarin

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I really like watching and reading this series. Good stuff Jim. Can't wait to see the next installment!


----------



## stuk4x4

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim-
Thank you for taking all these great pictures, I know it can slow you down quite a bit. However I am picking up a couple new tricks every blog you do. As always great job!
Thanks again
Walt


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks all for your kind words. The use of the trammel works really well in that the long points reach down far enough to measure over clamps that are in place. I keep a couple sets of trammels so I don't have to keep changing the wood stick the slid on. One point in using a trammel you have to be careful not to flex the stick when you measure.
Doug all the wood movement is up and down so wood movement is not an issue . The back of the dust shelves are screwed in with a screw in a oversize hole.


----------



## PurpLev

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


interesting. looks like a much faster and less worrying method than having those drawer guides part of the carcass.


----------



## supervato

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I love the legs and the dove tail jig is my favorite. The project looks great.


----------



## daddymunster

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim…That's a great piece you're building! I also enjoy your usage of the trammel points for checking for square. Great idea.


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


It's coming along nicely Jim. Great to learn all these time saving techniques too.


----------



## Loucarb

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim it looks like your really making some nice progress. I too love the trammel point tip. You have really done a very nice job with this blog entry Jim. Well done.


----------



## mtkate

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I got the square, but not the watch. I am getting in that habit of checking all the time for square. It's a very good habit. Smart idea writing down the time.


----------



## mpmitche

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


looks like it is really starting to come together; can't wait to see more.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 13
> 
> At our last episode, we were at the ranch and Skip and Marty were…….?!
> When I left you, I'd just completed gluing and pegging the lowboy together. Now, I measure and cut the material for the drawer shelves, in this case, made from poplar. After cutting all the material, I lay the sections of wood out and draw a line across the material where the biscuits are to be placed in the dust shelves material.
> 
> 
> To make things easier, I take out my bench hook to hold the pieces while I use my biscuit joiner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I glue them up, clamp them and check for square by using my trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This eliminates the need to have a measuring tape.
> 
> I write the time on each piece and I let all the shelves' glue dry
> 
> 
> 
> . After un- clamping all the drawer shelves, I put them in place one by one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , making sure they are square with the case from all directions and this includes the frame that the top will be. Each frame is glued in the front of the case and screwed in the back, to make them adjustable when the drawers are installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I start the gathering of material for the drawers. My plan is to use maple for the drawer sides and back. But after finding the maple that I've stored for a couple years, and that was stored by my son as a favor, I take it down and do a skim on my planner. From this point, it's good news/ bad news. The good news is, all of this maple is nicely figured.
> 
> Now I cut out the poplar to the exact width and height of the drawer openings for the backs and mahogany fronts and just a ½ "shorter for the sides. After some test fits, they're put in the case to acclimate over night, but longer would be better.
> 
> The bad news… I don't have any other appropriate material for the drawer. After e- mailing, Charles he said he wouldn't use this figured maple, because it's just too nice. After digging around, I find some poplar, some of it 16 quarter, and re-saw just enough for the drawer sides and backs.
> 
> 
> I set up one of my dovetail fixtures and get ready to dovetail the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I will continue next time.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looks good, Jim.


----------



## a1Jim

*week*

Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14

Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
A partial recap, plus update.
When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed



it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.

I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.

In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.




And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.







After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.



This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.



Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit


and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)



and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.



The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.



After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.




As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth





of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.



After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.



I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you? 
Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.

Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


----------



## Eric_S

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Its coming along nicely Jim. Thanks for the update. I like your hold downs on the dovetail jig as well.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Eric but those clamps are one of the reasons one of my first drawer side was wiped out. I need to change the angle they make contact with the wood and ad some sand paper to them for better holding power.


----------



## Eric_S

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Ah, well they look nice lol.

I actually ruined one of the nightstand legs today because the pattern wasn't clamped down tightly enough and the router dug in way to far, no way to salvage it. I should have run a test piece through first. I purchased a 2×2x30" maple blank from rockler to replace, i'm praying it looks the same as the current legs. Those all came from one board.


----------



## NBeener

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


*Eric*

Two words (if it's still possible):

Back … leg.

Sorry. I ruined two, on mine…..

*Jim*: beautiful work. I'm glad to see this one alive, again.

But … what YOU need …. are some good, solid, rather deep scribe lines on your DT boards LOL !


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Neil Your so right after the many discussions about them how could I forget LOL.
Are you still working on your Lowboy?


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Those dovetails looks good, Jim.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Charles


----------



## JoeLyddon

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looks good, Jim!

You must have nerves of steel… routing DT's with left hand while holding a vac hose with the right hand! 

Thank you.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hey Joe
I've had people say in my life "you've got some nerve" does that count.LOL


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


gosh jim ,

mistake ?

i haven't made a mistake 
for some time now .

like before i took my nap ,
the last time i worked ,
couple of hours at least !

coming along real nice

good to see you routing along !


----------



## beckerswoodworks

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looking great Jim. I like the way you're trimming the dovetails, I'm going to try it that way next time I cut dovetails.


----------



## sandhill

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim, Your mistakes look better then my finished products. LOL


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks David ,Don and sandhill.


----------



## PurpLev

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


very cool Jim.

Wouldn't plunging with a router using the ball bit do a better job than a hand held drill (higher speed, cleaner cut)?

Thats a cool idea for what will happen there. I like it.


----------



## jordan

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Oh my word, Jim, all that measuring!!! I don't think you would like to hire me.
I would now never buy a dresser without drawers like that! The stapled ones just will not do!


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hey Jordon
I don't think you'd want to hire me as a carver ether Bud. So I guess we're in the same boat LOL


----------



## charlie48

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


who said woodworking is't good exercise for the heart.mine was pumping just reading your post !!! Good recovery.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Sharon
It will sand up easily and it's less likely to miss it's target. Do you know what the concave hole is for?


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


not yet ,

are you going to tell us ,

or is this another blog question ?


----------



## grizzman

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


wow jim…i was like in shock when i saw you had to re do the drawer parts….....boy im glad i can say i have never done anything like that before:)))..was glad to see your the one who did it…....)))...and not ME…....lol its coming along rather nicely its been to blasted hot to do much work here…so i will watch you..keep the great project going …grizz


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hey David 
I was hoping to get some guesses . Just looking at the sides of the small drawers should give it away


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I know you would never do any thing like that Grizz   It's better to stay out of the heat there Bud.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Good to see you back at it ;-))


----------



## Karson

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim some fancy footwork to get you wood supply back in sync.

Some great tips.

Thanks.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Bob and Karson


----------



## Paul2274

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


This looks really nice Jim.

Gutsy with the router and hose!

If that was me the router bit would have caught an edge and jumped out and bit my hose hand 

I love the drawers.

Paul


----------



## RonPeters

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


I'm at a loss as to what the concave hole is. Hmmm, unless it has to do with something 'false'? Of course, I'm fairly new at this wood cutting stuff…very nice work.

I'm really impressed with your shop! I'm in the roll the table saw outside - but first move the car out, then push the shopvac out of the way, then plug in the extension cord to the outside socket, so I can carefully guide the saw out - stage of shop. Once I finish the storage cabinet under my bench, I'll have someplace to put things away. It would be so nice to have the room to leave everything set up.


----------



## Timbo

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looking good Jim, thanks for the update and pics. Are the concave holes a recess to slide a false bottom to reveal a secret?


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


OK i'll give it a whirl ,

grasp for the bottom to slide it out the back 
to get to the secret compartment under the drawer bottom .

Pm me if i'm right ,
it is a *secret* you know , (LOL) !


----------



## PurpLev

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Jim.

I'm am guessing from the 2 slots for 'a bottom' that I know what the concaved hole is for (finger access).


----------



## ND2ELK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looking good Jim. There is no doubt in my mind that this is going to be a beautiful piece. Great blog as always. Thanks for posting.

God Bless
tom


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Tim,David, and Sharon
I knew it would'nt take long to guess. You all three got it.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Tom


----------



## grizzman

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


well since no one is guessing…i say its for a secret drwer, since there are two slots for another bottom…..lol…did i get it jim…or have i beenin the heat to long….


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Well Grizz read up three post Ha Ha. Yes your right bud.


----------



## Eagle1

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Looks like your getting back into the project. I had wondered if you had finished it yet or not. I haven't thought about building a piece of furniture yet, I have a long way to go before I try it..


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Great blog and great work Jim. Sorry you had the "incident", but that only confirms that it can even happen to the best. Good to see the continuation.

About the drawers, someone has to make a wrong guess, so I guess that's me. I will guess that it is a stop to prevent the drawers from falling out. That would require some kind of sprung stopper between the chest side and the drawer which would pop into the hole when the drawer was extended out far enough.


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Good to see your back in the saddle again. Now about that picture where you have the router in

one hand and the vacum in the other….a little show offy Mister!!!!


----------



## NBeener

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


The Legend of A1Jim has it that … he was born with THREE hands.

For purposes of that router/dc hose picture, though … the third hand was taking the picture ;-)


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hey Tim Just go for it ,that's how you learn

Thanks so much Mike The concave area serves as a place to grab the upper drawer bottom to reveal the hidden drawer area below.
Hey Bob the Router and dust collect thing isn't really that tricky, since I have the router template to rest the router and the "D" handle router has a trigger for easy on and off.

Hey Neil Legend? LOL LOL legend of goof up HA HA It's called a tripod LOL aka third hand.

Thanks gang 
All projects have their ups and downs ,this project I find I've had a little more problems than usual but I feel it's good to share those problems to help others avoid those problems in their projects.


----------



## Loucarb

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Your making great progress Jim, well done.


----------



## reggiek

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Jim, thank you for another interesting and very informative piece.

Mistakes? What a novell concept…LOL. Seems no matter how much planning and replanning I do…I still make them…and plenty. Great recovery by the way.

I always hate when there is only just enough wood…..I try to overbuy…but it still seems that I come up short on various projects….You sound as unlucky as me regarding location….I have to purchase all my wood and freight it as the drive to a decent yard is much too far.

Keep up the good work and sharing the process and results. I am looking forward to the next installment.


----------



## JoeLyddon

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


According to Bob Ross of The Joy of Painting (PBS), there are never any *'mistakes'.*.. 
... just *"Happy accidents".*


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Lou , Reggie , 
Joe I like Bob Ross and his work


----------



## LateNightOwl

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


It's looking great, Jim. I've learned things in your blogs that I didn't know I didn't know, and probably learned more that I didn't know I learned!  Thanks so much for sharing even the problems. I think it is going to be a while (years!!) before I attempt anything like this.


----------



## NBeener

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


That's actually a really good point, that others have made:

While they say that the lessons we learn on our OWN are the ones that stick the best … I think it's *great* when LumberJocks tell all of us about the stuff THEY learned, along THEIR paths, that WE might want to look out for, learn from, and avoid.

To me … it's one of the best, and most generous forms of teaching.

So … yeah, *Jim*: THANKS !


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Mary Anne I'm glad it's been informative. You have some great projects so I don't think your that far off from a project like this. Charles makes it as easy as paint by the numbers with his projects and he is making projects of all levels.

Neil thanks again , It's a little embarrassing to share mistakes but I know I learn how not to do it sometimes, when others share there whoops moments.


----------



## BillyJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Very nice Jim.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Thanks Billy


----------



## lumberdustjohn

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Good information Jim.
How many hours will you have in this beast?
Thanks for keeping the post alive.


----------



## tdv

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


It's looking good Jim good to see you at it again & thanks for the neat idea of trimming & flushing up the dovetail ends with the router I'm never comfortable using a power sander or even my usual method of a hand plane for that job. I'll try it next time.
Trevor


----------



## mafe

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hi Jim,
I also started to shake a little from the handheld woodworking and 'stedycam' operations…
Since I'm sure you will not accept the finish of the holes like that if they were visible, my guess will be some kind of montage. (I guess they are not suitable for eggs, even the drawers would look wonderful at the breakfast table…).
Nice to have you back, missed your face on my posts…
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


No I think I got it!
It's to make it possible to get the drawer bottom out again - or?
Best,
Mads


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, #14
> 
> Hey everyone, sorry for the long delay. I'm afraid it's called life's little distractions. I'm back at the lowboy, if there's anyone still interested?
> A partial recap, plus update.
> When I left off, I was getting ready to make the drawers. I got a good start and then disaster struck.. my clamps slipped and I wiped out what I thought was the only poplar I had left, plus I was a little short on mahogany for the drawer fronts. Ultimately, I found some thick poplar that I had and re-sawed
> 
> 
> 
> it and as I mentioned before, I found some mahogany I'd bought a couple years ago. Whew, that was close! I've got just enough poplar to make the taller drawers. I start by setting up my dovetail jig and get my routers set up for the dovetail operation. I zoom through the first drawer side.. the one I had to find wood for. A nice clean smooth cut. Oh, no, I cut the pins in the side, not the front. Now what? I could cut it off and re-router it, but that will make it too short. I already know I don't have any more poplar. Now what? After a lot of thought, I decided to start over with maple instead of poplar, since I have some hard maple up on my shelf.. cool. I pull the maple down from the shelf. Cool, I have plenty. I cut a piece and do a light skim-planing. Wow, it's highly figured and I'm not going to use figured wood for drawers. This is not a problem since I have three other boards. I pull all three down. THEY'RE ALL FIQURED! This is good news, bad news. Good because I bought all this maple as standard hard maple and it's all nicely quilted and worth about $ 10 a bf more than what I paid for it. Bad news because I can't use it for drawer parts (or better said, I don't want to) and my nearest wood supplier is 120 miles round trip. I decide to check my semi-local lumber supply (the place I buy my deck material) for maple and low and behold, they can have it shipped in next day for less than I usually pay for maple. Next day I go pick up the maple (10 miles away) and wow, this is really nice, clean material. Ok, that's handled and time to move on.
> 
> I thought you would like to know that Charles Neil is comming out with his own dovetail jig that lets your router made dovetails look much more like hand cut dovetails.
> 
> In using my dovetail jig, you first center you stock so the dovetails are equally spaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, oh yes, make sure you're putting the right joint on the correct piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the pins on the FRONT of the drawer, you use the pins to draw out were the dovetails are to be cut on the SIDE of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> This insures proper alignment. After getting into a pace, you can proceed fairly easily. I might add that I place numbers in the mating pieces to make sure that when I'm ready, all of the pieces are in the right places . After some checking of the dovetails' fit, it's time to add the grooves in the bottom for the drawer. I try to place the drawer bottoms where they will be the least conspicuous through the sides and drawer front's, but not so high off the bottom that they use to much of the drawer space. Installing the groove in the sides and fronts is a straight-forward matter of setting up a dado blade and running all the pieces through. Once again, I mark the bottom inside of the drawers to make sure I don't mill the wrong side.
> 
> 
> 
> Now that this operation is done, I treat the backs differently. I don't dovetail the backs, I dado the sides and place a tenon on the backs, plus a little extra treatment on the taller side drawers. I'm sure you can tell what's going to happen with those two drawers? One more operation is used on these side drawers' backs. I first draw a line where the drawers will be coming through the backs of these two drawers. Then I start a hole with a forstener bit
> 
> 
> and follow up with a ball shaped router bit placed in a cordless drill (a handy trick in some operations)
> 
> 
> 
> and then place a concave ball shape in the center of the hole started by the forsterner bit.
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to cut the drawer back where the drawer bottom is placed.
> 
> 
> 
> After some smoothing of this mysterious concave shape, I'm done with the milling of the side drawer backs. I proceed with the backs of the other drawer backs by just cutting them off where the drawer bottoms can slide in. All-righty then, my drawer parts are all milled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I did with the drawer frames, I check for square with my trammel. After the drawers glue is dry I need to trim the pins that were milled too long and the quickest cleanest way to do this, is to set a board across the board and set the depth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> of the router bit to exactly the depth of the of the board setting on top and then route across the pins making them perfectly even with the drawer fronts. This is a much cleaner way to even them up, rather than sanding or filing them down.
> 
> 
> 
> After sanding the drawers are ready for the fitting into the case.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you've guessed what the extra grooves and mystery concave hole is in the side drawers, haven't you?
> Next time, I'll be fitting the drawers and some more interior case details.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


Hey Mads you should see me with a router in both hands at once LOL
You got it ,it's to pull one drawer bottom out to reveal the hidden compartment below.


----------



## a1Jim

*week*

Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.



I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.



Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.





This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case









and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.






I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.

It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.





Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.








These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.



This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them. 
Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time. 
Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


----------



## schloemoe

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Very detailed and very good work you would make Charles proud…......................Schloemoe..Rick


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Thanks Rob and Rick


----------



## sandhill

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Great photos jim


----------



## pawpawsteve

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Great job of building and great job of showing us how you did it. Charles picked a winner when he chose you to do the build along!


----------



## jordan

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Soooo many tools! Tell me Jim, will you make more money for going the extra length for such beautiful detail - or do you make that kind of extra effort just because you love it? I mean, seriously, if a customer looked at this blog and the work involved, they would be shocked. Liked the before and after photos.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Thanks Sandhill. Steve, and Jordon.
I don't know detail the way you do Jordon , your blog on your Indian warrior shirt carving is fantastic.

If you haven't seen Jordon's blog gang here's a link
http://lumberjocks.com/jordan/blog/17144


----------



## Rob200

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Jordan if you take the easy way out why do it at all that is what keep a customer coming back is that ester effort love the work you do Jim it is nice to see some one do the job wright


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Thanks Robert


----------



## PurpLev

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


This is looking fantastic Jim!


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Thanks Sharon


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


well done as usual , jim ,

step by step easy for us to follow .

i'm wondering ,
since you are left handed ,

do you have to read the plans in the mirror ,

like da vinci did ?

it must get confusing at times , LOL .


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Your right nortap I mean Patron . Wow Da vinci pretty good company Huh.
Thanks David .


----------



## jordan

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Yes Jim, it's funny how we all have the patience for our certain niche items. I may have the patience to paint 3000 beads but I couldn't make a square drawer if you paid me - I think the talents of my drawer making came down to trying to fix that old dresser that had the drawers on metal guides stapled to them - you know the ones that wobble back and forth?
I'm interested to see this finished and glad you are blogging it.

It's okay Robert, I wasn't suggesting he take the easy way out, I was only hoping that people wouldn't balk if he sold high end and appreciated the workmanship, like I do.


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Looking good Jim, kinda nice seeing all the front together.

Usually at this point in the project I start to get a little apprehensive,

Murphy's Law you know…..LOL


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Enjoying your great work and this blog Jim. I'm becoming less ignorant all the time following this. When I see your array of tools it makes me wish I owned and operated a tool store in your area! I would buy more tools, but unlike yourself, nobody would be willing to pay for my woodworking, so I just have to get along with what I have. Looking forward to episode 14.


----------



## NBeener

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


This is really coming along nicely !

The details that you (and Charles) put into your drawers is why YOURS will slide straight and effortlessly, and MINE require a bit of jiggering to open and close them, smoothly !

Great progress !


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Hey Bob I know what your talking about .
Hey Mike I tried to get Kent to move his tool store next door but he Likes Texas to much .LOL Whats this nonsense about you projects not being good enough ,All you work is top notch .

Neil I'm just following Charles good example. You next projects drawers will be jiggle-less now that you've seen Charles technique.


----------



## majuvla

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Thanks for good advices.It's good to know.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


I'm not sure what advice your referring to but your welcome Ivan


----------



## BillyJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Jim - you are a great teacher. Thanks for sharing your journey and craftsmanship in this blog. I find your work on this lowboy exciting - I can't wait to see what is next. Great job - keep'em coming!


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


It takes a fair amount of time to put a blog together it's great to know that folks look forward to it. 
Thanks Billy


----------



## blockhead

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 15
> When we left off in the last installment, we had the drawers together and we had sanded the inside and started to sand the outside. Continuing on, I used a number of different sanders to sand the outside of the drawers. I own a number of belt sanders, so to speed up the process I have three belt sanders with three different grits of sand paper to sand just the outside sides.
> 
> 
> 
> I use them very carefully as a belt sander can wipe-out a project quicker than any other sanders. After light passes with the belt sanders I use my random orbital sander and sand the remaining edges and finish up the sides, using up to 180 grit. I use the same ball shape router bit to sand the concave dimple in the back of the small drawer, but now have some PSA sandpaper attached to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Next comes the fitting of the drawers to the case. This involves a number of steps. The first step is that I take all the drawers and cut about 3/16 "off of the bottom of the drawer fronts with the table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This insures there's no catching of the drawer front on the case. The next step is to check and see how level the drawers fit on the drawer shelves. In other words, when you press on any of the drawers when in place, will they tilt or bounce up and down. To adjust any bounce, you can adjust the back of the drawer shelves where they are screwed to the back of the case. If I hadn't mentioned it earlier, the holes in the back of the drawer shelves are oversized just for the purpose of adjustment. It may also necessary to plane a little off the bottom edge of any drawer that still bounces after adjusting the back screws. The next step is to install the drawers and see how they fit in each opening. After that, you start to install the side guides in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and then the wider center side guides that help tie the drawer shelves together, but still act as side guides for the drawers. After your drawers are adjusted so that they have no bounce and slide in and out without a large amount of side play , you're ready for the next step. Now you take each drawer and put a bevel on the bottom edge just below where the drawer bottoms will slide in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a rabbiting plane because it seems to fit the area pretty well.
> 
> It's important not to bevel the first two inches or so. After planing the bevel so they were fairly even, I sand them a little just to clean them up. Now I put them back in the case and check how flat the drawers fronts are compared to the scroll board and the rest of the front of the case and line them up so that the lowest part of the drawer fronts are even with the front of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being very careful not to move the drawers from their alignment, I take some small blocks of wood that have been sized so their height won't interfere with the drawer bottom and glue them on the case at the front corner of each side of the front inside corner of each drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These will serve as stops for the drawers and also keep the drawers aligned side to side. Notice the tape at the corner where each stop goes. If you glue the drawer in place, you might destroy it trying to get it out. You might guess that the bevel put on the bottoms of the drawer s were to insure there is no binding with the alignment blocks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is typical of Charles' woodworking genius and simple effect approaches to a problem of drawers that might otherwise would get jammed going in and out, no matter how much time you spend fitting them.
> Now I'm ready for the next step, sanding the front of case and drawer all flush. That's where we will start next time.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


This is coming along great Jim with lots of good tips. Thanks for blogging!


----------



## a1Jim

*week*

Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns. 



Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock




and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.








Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.



After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.




If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.








Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.

I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.

Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


----------



## JoeLyddon

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


You're getting there!

Little by little… No rushing, etc…

Very good!

Does someone else take the pictures or do you setup a tripod, etc. & set the camera to delay and 'Click' the picture?

You're doing a very good job of documenting your 'Build'

Thank you for your efforts.


----------



## Kindlingmaker

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Looks great! I am enjoying this build along!


----------



## reggiek

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


I agree with Kindlingmaker, this is most enjoyable. Jim you are doing an excellent job documenting/picturing the process. The pics of the leg sculpting are superb. They turned out great….I have not had the opportunity to use this style myself but certainly will want to give it a go in the future.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Thanks guys, It's not to late to get involved with Charles next build staring next week its a beautiful blanket chest. You'll be glad you did.

http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/


----------



## jordan

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Wow, that's a lot of steps…Does the glue just hold it on it's own without clamping?


----------



## Karson

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Looking greatJim. ice jobon the fitting.


----------



## CharlesNeil

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Looking good Jim, very well done


----------



## LeeJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Hi Jim;

It's getting there! There's a lot of work in those, that's for sure. And it's picky detail work. Those of us with a short attention span have a tough time with these. What were we talking about? LOL

Nice work Jim.

Lee


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Jordon yes you just make sure it's flat and hold it tight for a while and thin let it dry.
Thanks Karson I try
Charles thanks so much for the opportunity to build this great project and all the details in the mastering woodworking series and through e mails . I never would have tried this project without you invitation an your furnishing of all of the materials.
Yes Lee it does take a fair amount of time although Charles can crank a Lowboy out in a couple days. Of course Charles works super long days.


----------



## SPalm

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Thanks Jim. That is so cool to watch. I have read books and magazines for years about doing this, but somehow watching you do it, it is so much more personal.

Thanks again for the posts,
Steve


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Hey Steve
Before finding Charles on You Tube I learned all my woodworking from books and god old Norm, but having Charles do it on line makes it so easy because you can go back and replay it as many times as you like plus Charles is a natural teacher plus he's so innovative in his woodworking approach.


----------



## mattg

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Very nice blend!!!


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Excellent Jim!!!


----------



## BillyJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Very impressive, Jim. I'm also impressed with the free-handing of the oscillating spindle sander. It's a great tool, but can ruin a profile quickly. Very talented.

Again, you're keeping me hanging for the next installment. Can't wait!


----------



## mtkate

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Really cool. I am also impressed with that free-hand spindle sanding. Especially AFTER it's glued…


----------



## helluvawreck

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Jim, I've been looking over this series and when I get time I'm going to go over it step by step. You're really getting me interested in signing up with Charles Neil's website.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Thanks Matt you built your Highboy and lowboy some time ago they turned out great.
Thank tou Bob
Thanks Billy ,It'does take a steady hand to use the hand held OSS
Thank you too Mtkate
Thanks helluvawreck I'm glad you enjoyed the series. You'll be glad you did if sign up. If you think about it a good book on how to build something wonderful is more than $20. and it's a rare thing if it covers all the details and they never have the know how Charles has.


----------



## Cozmo35

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Very informative Jim! Thanks for posting!


----------



## JoeLyddon

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Jim,

Does someone else take the pictures or do you setup a tripod, etc. & set the camera to delay and 'Click' the picture?


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Thanks Cozmo

Joe I'm sorry I thought I answered your question. when the operation requires two hands I use a tripod and timer other times I'll hold something in place with one hand and and shoot with the other.


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Great work Jim and a valuable tutorial. Looking forward to the next steps.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Thanks Mike 
I always enjoy all of your post too.


----------



## sandhill

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


First, Sorry your wife is having trouble with the dust. My likes to come out and see what I am doing so I hope she don't ever develop a reaction to any kind of dust.
Jim its coming out very nice. How far along have you got its been about 3 weeks More, more. That's a handy little sander you got there.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil lowboy build-along, # 16
> Hey friends, when I left you last time, we were ready to sand the case. I started by putting wedges in the drawers, to keep them in place while sanding. First I sanded the whole front of the lowboy case and drawers to make them all even for the installing of the drawer fronts. After checking the front with a straight edge at many different angles to make sure the drawers ,legs and case were dead flat, I then moved on to both sides and the back. This was a big job and it took tons of sanding and checking to make sure everything was flat, using planes, belt sanders (very carefully) and then my random orbital sander with several grits . Even with all that sanding I only sanded to 80 grit. This took me from 8:30 AM until 8:30 PM. What made it even tougher is that my wife seems to be allergic to mahogany dust, so I had to stay in the shop until I was finished sanding for the day, in fear of bringing in dust to cause her problems.
> The next step is to make and install the knee blocks. I first cut out the pattern furnished on Charles' web site for the "Mastering Woodworking", in PDF form and then glued it to some hard board and cut out and sand to shape, like the cut-out in the other patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I hold the mahogany up next to the legs and try to get a reasonable match on the grain. I then draw the pattern on the stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and go to the band saw and saw out the first shape on the stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, back to the band saw to cut just outside the draw line. Note, I use the off cut as a carriage to hold the piece, to make it easier and safer to cut, plus it holds the wood at the correct orientation.
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting, I hold the knee block in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I feel there is too much excess left, I then take the knee block to the disc sander and sand to fit. After I'm satisfied with the fit I then put a liberal amount of glue on the knee block and firmly hold it in place for a few seconds until I feel it is centered properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time we will be installing the drawer fronts.
> 
> I also use my random orbital sander and pattern makers file to get it shaped. Before going onto the next operation it's good to compare by eye the legs and knee blocks to make sure they look alike. Regardless of measurements, if they look alike, they are alike, quoting Charles.
> 
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts soon so don't miss out.


Jim, that looks real good.


----------



## a1Jim

*week*

Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.









Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.



I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.




After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.



When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.







In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.




Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.




Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier






and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,




cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.



After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.


Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.

This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


----------



## cwdance1

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Sure wish I could do work like that, maybe some day.


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


well done once again , jim .

well illustrated too .

that's the thing to remember ,
lots of small steps ,
lead up to the final project .

not big jumps ,
that can lead to mistakes ,
or under planing .


----------



## reggiek

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Wow…turning out great…I look forward to each post and the pics really make things go together. Great job on the lowboy and great job on documenting the steps you are taking….they are invaluable to any level woodworker…and it is very fun to watch your progress.


----------



## Delta356

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


It's just amazing!!!! WOW….................................................................................


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Hey CWdance that's what's it all about is a challenge Charles takes if through it step by step and even tell you what not to do.
Right on David when you do it in little steps before know it each step is done and you have it done. As easy as howling at the moon LOL
Thanks reggie sometimes you spend a lot of time putting these things together and wonder if folks are really interested.
Thanks so much Michael Delta356


----------



## jordan

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Gee, it's great to follow along - I've been doing exactly the same things as you, LOL!
After seeing the front, you sure have come a long way!


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Thanks for checking it out Jordon I'm enjoying your blog also.


----------



## RonPeters

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Curious about cleaning the excess glue. It smears if I clean it after it oozes and if I wait, it's too hard. Is there a trick to it? A wet rag?

Ahem, I like your legs!


----------



## JoeLyddon

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


You sure make it look SIMPLE!  ;D

Nice work!


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Thanks Ron and Joe
Ron I use a sponge that's just barley damp and also a pointed stick a little smaller than a carpenters pencil
that has kind of a flat point to clean out glue in tight spaces. It's best to let the glue get firm but not hard to use that tool


----------



## mafe

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Hi Jim,
Yes, you sure make it look simple, but still I'm impressed, and can see years of working hands behind the simplicity.
Thank you for sharing this with us,
Mads


----------



## Eric_S

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Great post Jim. I'm really enjoying following along with your progress ad techniques being used.

You confused me at first with saying "...front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made." Huh, two drawer fronts? But at the end it all makes sense. Is this just so its easier and quicker than doing a real half blind? Anyways, it's looking great!!!


----------



## BillyJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Very nice work Jim. It is really turning out to be a good looking lowboy. Thanks for taking so many pics - I love the detail you have put into this blog. Keep 'em coming.


----------



## Eagle1

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


It's looking good Jim..


----------



## dfletcher

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


This is a great project. I've been following with great interest. If I had the extra funds, Charles would have another subscriber, not to mention the amount of money I would put out for his products. Oh well, one day.


----------



## Karson

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Jim some beautiful work. Nice job on the build.


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Thanks again everyone


----------



## gagewestern

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


jim that is a great looking lowboy you should be done in no time have fun


----------



## Bigdogs117

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Nice job on the build and thanks for the pictures as you go. Nothing like seeing the work as it progresses.


----------



## lumberdustjohn

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


I never realized the drawer fronts were two pieces.
Thanks for sharing


----------



## LeeJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Hi Jim;

You're doing a great job, both with the low boy, and the blog. Very well done.

I went to the Philadelphia Art Museum the other day with a friend, for the sole purpose of checking out their 18th century furniture collection. The have some beautiful pieces there, from some of the best makers.

I always leave there feeling humbled. The work they did, in the conditions they did it, would be too much for me, I'm sure.

Lee


----------



## Cozmo35

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Great work Jim!


----------



## alba

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Thanks for that. Lot of effort, both in the pictures and making.
Jamie


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Thanks everyone 
Lee I wish I lived close to such great Museums it seems folks in the east have such a great choice as far as museums are concerned. I've only seen photos of some of the great pieces that are available for viewing .


----------



## tdv

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


That's a really nice job Jim, I promise I'm going to make one when I get this work out of the way, you've inspired me
Cheers
Trevor


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Well the last picture is just handsome!!!

As your pictures show:"You can never have to many clamps!!!"

The drawer sides also look nice, great dovetail work!!!


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Great work Jim and the step by step gives all the details needed. I would love to make a piece like that, but unfortunately no one in my family including the wife has an appreciation for period furniture except myself. I can get the mahogany though, so who knows, maybe I will use your inspiring tutorial to build one anyway, or maybe do a miniature. Oh, and the step by step approach works well for everything we do in life, not just woodworking!


----------



## bigike

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


sorry i really havent been following cuz my computer crashed and now i need a new one but making the money i do i dont know when i'll get one soon i hope i miss everyone here on LJ! Jim, the lowboy C.N. build along is coming out great. Im on my neighbors computer so i'll be off soon. but hope you kept me in mind for the vac. press?


----------



## JoeLyddon

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


BigMike,

Sorry you're having computer problems, etc.

Glad you were able to use neighbors computer!

Good Luck… Later…


----------



## grosa

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Beautiful job Jim.


----------



## BelleCityWW

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Jim,

That is Outstanding Work!!!!

John


----------



## RexMcKinnon

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Very nice.


----------



## charlie49

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #17
> Now I'm at the point where it's time to install the drawer fronts. Charles has a unique approach to drawers and drawer fronts. His approach that I've used on this project includes having the front of the drawers being made of the same species of wood that the drawer fronts are made. To start the process I take a small combination square and mark a pencil mark a ¼" away from each corner of the drawer openings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I measure the distance in between the marks and these measurements represent the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> I have already prepared the drawer front material and planed them to approximately 5/16" thick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After cutting the drawer fronts to size, I then route the detail on the edges of the drawer fronts.
> 
> 
> 
> When doing this, I make three passes, raising the router bit a little at a time, or following Charles approach, "sneaking up on it." Routing this way helps make a burn-free, blow-out free drawer front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case you're not aware, routing the end grain first insures that if you have a wood blow out on the end grain, the long passes remove the damage. Now that I have the drawer front's cut out and routed, I need to find out exactly where the pulls and lock keyhole cover goes. To do that I mark the centers on the top drawer front and the lower center drawer front, plus the two taller side drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the centers are marked, I place a pencil mark on the case indicating where the centers are. Next I hold the top shelf where it will be installed and carry the center lines up from the two side drawers to make sure the pulls will line up on the side drawers and the upper drawer. After all the centers are marked I then place a Chippendale cover so it's centered over all my marks on the drawer fronts and trace each of them where they will be placed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm ready to apply my drawer fronts. I take each drawer and apply a heavy coat of glue (as if it was painted with a heavy coat of paint) on its front. Now moving quickly, I take the drawer fronts and center them in between the ¼" marks made earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and shoot nails (22 GA) in the drawer fronts, only where they will be hidden with the hardware when installed and that have been drawn on the drawer fronts. I now take the drawer assembly and carefully clamp the drawer fronts to the drawers,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cleaning any excess glue as I go. It's important to make sure the drawer front hasn't moved and that it's been clamped tight to the drawer so that no gap is visible. On the two drawers that are the same size, after nailing, they are clamped face to face with some wax paper in between. Not shown in the photo are two long clamps that were placed on each side, clamping both drawers, top to bottom for additional pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> After the clamps are removed and the drawers are in place, the thin drawer fronts and the inner drawer front look as if they were one piece of wood with half blind dovetails cut in them.
> 
> 
> Next time, we move on to the finial and if we have time, the hardware.
> Remember, the techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ a new project starts this today; an amazing blanket chest, so don't miss out.
> 
> This is another innovative approach to drawer making developed by Charles over many years of period furniture making.


Hi, Jim. When you're done with this beauty, what do you anticipate using for finish?
Goodness, the talent I see on this web site, including yours still amazes me.
Charlie

Belton, Mo


----------



## a1Jim

*week*

Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.










What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment. 
The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here









, just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.









Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.










Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.










Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.










I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog

Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes

http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.

Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


my grand father patron told me you might come back
from far away and keep an eye out for you
said he meet you once
and saw this work

but as things have changed so much

i have to ask

what is a lowboy


----------



## Karson

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Nice job on your back to work day.


----------



## mattg

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Amazing!! You turned the finial on the drill press? I must try it!!!


----------



## Broglea

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Thanks Jim. I was thinking the other day that I haven't seen this blog in a while. I thought may be it got finished without me knowing it.

I finished turning a christmas ornament on the drill press last week. It works great for the small stuff.


----------



## sandhill

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Great job Jim.


----------



## DavidHarms

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Jim coming along nicely! I enjoyed watching this series by Charles.


----------



## Chelios

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Glad you got back in it. It is looking good and I hope you find the time keep it going. It will be a great addition to the 40000 projects.


----------



## JoeLyddon

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


David… that's simple!
A lowboy is the opposite of a highboy!


----------



## Eric_S

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


I was wondering what happened to your lowboy. I'm glad you are back to blogging on it. It looks really nice so far Jim.


----------



## helluvawreck

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Good work, Jim. I've read what you have done so far so I'll take a look at the rest. I love Charles' videos and his method of teaching. He's very down to earth and even adds some comedy. I like watching him. I belong to his site but I must confess I haven't logged on in 3 weeks. I always seem to have time constraints bearing down on me from every direction; even from behind me and they often sneak up on me and bite me on the butt. So I can relate to your long gap on this blog about the low boy. Keep up the good work.


----------



## Maggiepic

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


"Life" does happen to all of us doesn't it. It must feel good to get back to a stalled project. Looking forward to seeing the continued progress.


----------



## Skylark53

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Thanks Jim. I always enjoy your blog and am a CN fan myself, though I haven't subscribed yet.


----------



## REK

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


I've read the whole series but I think you should write a synopsis before the next chapter….
It's very cold outside it effects my memory!!!


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Thanks everyone it does feel good to get back to work on the the lowboy .


----------



## SPalm

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Hey Jim, great that you got back to it.
What a fine piece of furniture. Looking really good.

Steve


----------



## tdv

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Glad you're back on it Jim been missing it I thought I was having mail problems
Take care my friend
Trevor
By the way Jim around these parts the hanging finial is called a "Drop"


----------



## grizzman

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


really glad to see you working on this..this will be a wonderful addition to the a1 collection….cant wait for the next installment….grizz


----------



## sras

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Hey Jim,

Good to see you are back on this one. This is going to be a fine looking piece!


----------



## sedcokid

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Thanks Jim, I enjoy your blogs!!


----------



## DennisLeeZongker

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Very Nice Blog, That's really cool, turning with a drill press.


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> Charles Neil mahogany lowboy build-along, #18
> On a planet far, far away, long, long ago this A-1 guy was building a lowboy. He was given the wood and blow-by-blow instruction how to build it and was reporting to the land of LJ about how it was going. Then this invader, called LIFE stopped the whole process and only after a long battle, did the A-1 guy get back to the castle to continue the lowboy adventure.
> Now that my sanity has (briefly) returned… LOL, I'll get on with the show, since a number of my friends had asked when I was going to finish the lowboy blog and I've kicked myself in the seat of the pants (boy was that hard to do), I'll get back to where I left off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I did last was to make and install the applied drawer fronts. With that handled I'll address the making and installing of the pediment.
> The first step in preparing for the pediment install is to put a backing block on the area on the scroll board were the finial will be installed. Nothing difficult here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , just a block of wood glued to the center of the scroll board. After the backer is installed I make a small square about a ¼" thick and place a center mark with an "X". It's sized so that it hangs over about ¼" on the center where the backer board is front, back and sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I nail it in place with some 23 gauge pins and glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the pediment which is kind of shaped like a large Hershey's kiss. I started the turning on the lathe and did some final turning on the drill press.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unlike Charles, I turned a tenon on my pediment and Charles drilled a hole in his and added a dowel. Now that the glue is dry, I drill a hole where I placed the "X" and install the finial.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to have the next installment a little closer together than this one was to the last installment. 
> Next time, we move on to the drawer lock and hardware. Remember, these techniques used are from Charles Neil's subscription online webisode.
> I'm sorry for taking so long to get back to this blog
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ Since we started this blog, Charles has built this lowboy, a hanging cupboard, a blanket chest, and has almost completed a slant front desk on his Mastering Woodworking subscription webisodes. Boy have I learned a lot. If you want to learn a lot more than you know now, buy yourself a great Christmas present for only $20 a month and sign up right away, so you don't miss the next great build.
> 
> Links to the earlier parts of this blog http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Don't worry too much about the delay Jim (back to the future?). This lowboy is a timeless classic as is your great blog, and it's always nice to return to a good read after a long dry period.


----------



## a1Jim

*week*

This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.










I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.











__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content


















I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.



















After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.



























After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.









After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.



























After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.









The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.


















Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.



























After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.









The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .









Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.


















The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.











__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.


















I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.









I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.









Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.









Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.




























After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.



















All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.

The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.

Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.

http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/

For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link

http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


----------



## degoose

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Truly outstanding!


----------



## sandhill

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


*clap clap clap* Great work Jim.


----------



## patron

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


excellent as always jim

this is a very good build

i do have a slight problem however

could you take some of the pictures 
through a mirror

i'm having problems doing this work lefthanded lol


----------



## JoeLyddon

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Very good presentation!


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


syug sknaht


----------



## studie

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Very fine work Jim! I so enjoy seeing the progress too. How cool it is to see a fine piece like that and even before finish. Brings chills to me to see a drill or router near it but that is what it needs to get it done. Thanks for posting!


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


*'After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer."*

Nice blog Jim, Did you free hand that router cutting?


----------



## tdv

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


It's looking great Jim I promise I'm going to make one of these in 2011 I love it
I wish you & yours a happy Christmas Jim
Trevor


----------



## Napoleon

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


a great lock-job and blog.

Jim you must make some more and follow it up with blog´s.

Great to look and read stuff like that while i am having my morning coffe


----------



## alba

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Jim that is a great great blog.

The unit is looking good, how much more to do?

Jamie


----------



## Eric_S

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Wowie! A lot of work for a lock but it looks really nice. Keep the blogs coming


----------



## Dennisgrosen

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


thank´s for a great picturebook blog Jim
and Merry Chrismas

Dennis


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Nice work, Jim.


----------



## LeeJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Sure is looking good, Jim!

I guess that old saying, "all good things take time", apply here.

Lee


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Merry Christmas and Thanks every one.

Yes Bob I routered it out free hand.

Trevor I'll look forward to seeing your Lowboy.

Jamie I just have the top to make and drawer bottoms plus lots of sanding and finish.


----------



## Dez

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Looking good!


----------



## SPalm

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


That is so fine, Jim.
Really a treat to watch you build it.

Steve


----------



## littlecope

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Great Job and Story, Jim!!
It looks like the finish line is in sight… 
That Southpaw hammer swinging though… It does not compute…


----------



## mafe

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Thank you Jim, I learned new stuff here.
A exelent blog, I love to follow you.
Best thoughts and marry christmas,
Mads


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Thanks again everyone

In case you noticed the episode number changed to #19 that's because the blog is now set up as a series, thank you SRAS (Steve) for his help in setting this series up.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


thank´s for telling Jim 
will make it easyer in the future if I ever dare to make a build like this

Dennis


----------



## beckerswoodworks

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Looking great Jim, I can't wait to see the finished product.


----------



## Nollie

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


That was a good lesson in woodworking. Very systematic
Nollie

Potgietersrus South Africa


----------



## Napoleon

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Jim am i totally wrong when i clik on your link http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/ and see that i have to pay 20 dollars for 30 day to look at that page ?? does it really cost that much just for looking ?


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Charles Neils Mastering woodworking is a subscription program. it cost $19.95 a month unless you want the a copy of the project he's making then it's $26.95 a month and that just covers the cost of shipping and the DVDs. If you have ever checked into classes or work shops from so called master woodworkers through out the country even a one day work shop can cost $ 250 or more and that means you have to travel to where their school is and possible pay for lodging,food etc. And then pay $100 for a separate DVD 
With Charles you get step by step details and a complete build of one project in 6-8 week time period *at your home. *plus if your stuck you can look on line and play it over and over and e mail Charles and he will walk you through it. Most of the guys that get $350-$850 for one project won't do that once you've gone home. 
Beside all that Charles really knows what he's doing he's 10 notches above any of the guys on line,TV or the best of magazine articles. If you ask me Charles mastering woodworking would be a bargain at 3 times the price.
We all have budgets to deal with so if $20 a month is not workable for you Charles has put about 40 post of things on YOU TUBE Free. You won't find a nicer guy or a better teacher when it comes to woodworking.


----------



## Napoleon

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


That sounds fair. I didnt new it worked that way so thanks for explaning Jim


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Not a problem Napoleon . I hope your new shop comes together quickly .


----------



## stefang

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
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> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
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> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
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> 
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> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
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> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
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> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Thanks for the fine blog on the nitty picky stuff Jim which can be so difficult for some (me for example). I think this was especially well done considering that you were holding a camera while showing us the technique with your other hand. When I saw the mallet and chisel my first reaction was "and this is a guy with 40 routers?", but you came through as usual in the end. I do think scoring the outline first with the chisel was smart.


----------



## Napoleon

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Jim its on its way  soon i will post some pictures


----------



## mpmitche

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


This project is coming along beautifully. The work your doing is truly outstanding. Can't wait to see more.


----------



## bigike

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


wow that lowboy is looken real nice Jim, You guys came a long way with it but like i said in the begining you can pull it off. Have you guys talked about the finnish your gonna apply?


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Thanks Mike
Hi Ike 
I know the finish is going to be water base dye and water base lacquer but haven't decided on what shade it will be yet.


----------



## JPJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Jim did you ever finish this project? Post pictures?


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


JPJ
Life got in the way,it's still siting on top of my worktable. I hope to get back to it in the next couple months.


----------



## JPJ

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


I've been looking at some of Charles Neil's Projects would you recommend him?


----------



## a1Jim

a1Jim said:


> *week*
> 
> This part of my blog covers installing lock and hardware. I start by taking the lock and putting it on the inside of the top drawer and then press firmly to make a small dent in the drawer back where the lock pin sticks out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use my marking gauge to mark the same distance away from the edge of the drawer to carry the mark where the pin marked it on the inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I place the lock escutcheon on the outside of the drawer and center it to check to see how well it lines up with where it the key hole will go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After centering the lock, I mark escutcheon where the top part of the key hole will be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After drilling the top of the key hole out I place the lock in place and see how the pin of the lock lines up with the key hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to make sure the hardware was the same distance down from the top edge of the drawer I then drill the all the drawers and install all the hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After marking around the the inset part of the lock I use my saddle square to mark where the lock needs to be mortised out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step, I use my chisel to cut around where the lock is to be morticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I use the lock to set the depth of the router bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After routing out the area where the lock goes I placed the lock back in place and draw around it to rout out just enough for the lock to flush the lock even with the inside surface of the drawer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last step is to set the router to router the area for the front edge of the lock .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I lay the lock escutcheon on the front of the drawer mark it and drill it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next step is to chisel out the area between the two holes to complete the keyhole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to install the screws for the lock. I normally use a vix bit to pre-drill the holes for most hardware,
> but in this case my vix bit is to large for the the small screws on this lock. In this case I use a small nail to punch a small hole in the center of each hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now use a small gimlett to pre-thread the hole for the brass screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now place the escutcheon on the front of the drawer and use tweezers to start the small nails that hold it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having the lock in place with temporary screws I check the lock for the amount of throw the bolt has and find I have just enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I move on to the pulls for the drawers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After checking to see if all of the locations of the pulls have been marked properly, I drill and install the pulls.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All of my hardware comes from Horton Brasses. Like Charles I have used their hardware for years and find all of the hardware top-notch with customer service to match. If you want your work to look good and last, it's the place to go for hardware.
> 
> The next installment will cover the installing of drawer bottoms and applying detail to the top.
> 
> Sign up for Charles, "Mastering Woodworking" webisodes you will be glad you did.
> 
> http://mw.charlesneilwoodworking.com/
> 
> For a list of earlier parts of this blog here's a link
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/a1Jim/blog


Yes I would recommend him, Charles makes his projects easy for you to learn no matter what level of experience you have. I strongly recommend his mastering woodworking on line lessons also.


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