# Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

*Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*

At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.

I have a 2 car garage / workshop that is tremendously space challenged, so I need to be clever about every square inch. On top of that, I enjoy modifying designs and making them work custom for me. So when I saw Ted's great SawStop Cabinet and Router Table, I knew I had to build it. Additionally, I just had to have better dust collection than the SawStop contractors saw provides. This design should dramatically improve that. I plan on 5" for under the table saw, with 2.5" for the above table guard, and 6" to the router table via a separate drop.

For reference, here's Ted's completed project:
My SawStop and Router Cabinet project

I've been spending the past few weeks slowly building this component-by-component. First the mobile base. I beefed up the original design by adding two more casters (total of 6 now), as with the additional components, the weight of this will be substantial. This design (a torsion box with 3/4" plywood) should be able to handle 900 lbs.

Here's the completed base (plans are available from Woodstore-It's their Mobile Sawing/Routing Center):



















I was concerned that the countersunk holes for the bolts would weaken the frame, so I filled them with West Systems 3 Epoxy with high-strength filler. I think the resultant areas should be at least as strong as the original oak plywood.

The completed center will have a cabinet for the SawStop, drawer storage for saw blades, wrenches, jigs, guards), a cast iron router table with Incra Fence and integrated dust collection, a swivel down outfeed table (taken from the February 2009 Woodworker's Journal - which I think is the neatest one I've seen), and, if I can make it work, a maple workbench top with vises. It's a tall order, but I'd like to see it through.

Well, more building to do, but wanted to get the blog rolling. Please feel free to add comments / suggestions / criticisms / etc.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


The top is being glued to the airbox. I have routed out the openings for the SawStop Contractor's Saw. Next step will be to install the drawer slides, and build the second box. Then I'll glue both boxes to the base.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Wow!!! I really like what you've done so far zzzzdoc. It's looking GREAT and this is bringing back memories of when I was building my cabinet for my saw. I can't wait to see future pictures as you add your boxes to your base…. NICE WORK!! I can tell you take pride in your work.

I see a Festool track in the background… do you have the TS55 like I do? I love my Festool saw.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yes, in fact much of this was done on the Festool TS55. I never like hauling sheet goods over a table saw, so I'm doing more and more with the Festool. Getting square and parallel edges has been a bit of an issue, though. I've found that if they are a little oversized, a little trimming with a pattern bearing bit does wonders.

I did the routing with the Festool track, Festool OP 1400 +/- pattern bits. I still think routing the opening was the hardest step thus far.

It's amazing how many steps this build involves. I'm not going to ask how long you took. It would be too depressing.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Built the second box with the SawStop instead of the Festool. Went much quicker and straighter.

Drawer slides are installed. I'll build the drawers later. Easier to set up the PC jig and knock those all off at the same time.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


WOW,,,, it's looking real good Alan. Outstanding job. I just sent you the dimensions for the accessory pullout shelf.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Thanks. The second box was easy. Now they start getting challenging again. I can see it will be great to be able to store blades, wrenches, and especially the guards / riving knives in a convenient spot.

I can see that installing slides in an 8" wide box could be a pain. Much better installing them before gluing up the case.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


BTW Alan, my pull out shelf does not touch the under side of the SawStop extension table. The right side of my saw is attached to the router box which is attached to the box that houses the two drawers under the router table.

The router table was really challenging for me as getting the height correct was a pain in the you know what.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Interesting.

At what stage did you take the saw off it's base and place it onto the new cabinet base? The extension table on the right has that monopole support, which I assume gets in the way of the router table.

I really need to be able to use the router table as my sole router table, so I'll probably have to attack the rails to make room for the miter slot. Boy, didn't see that one coming.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure as I must have made 3-5 test fits and then when I was done building the cabinet I used it for a while and then decided to paint the cabinet so off came the saw for the final time.

I ditched the extension legs and made a new extension table with a slightly thicker top. The SS extension table was a 5/8ths piece of MDO. I used a 3/4 inch MDF and laminated it.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Wow. I figure I'll have one good shot to get friends to come over and lift the SS. I don't think 3-5 test fits will be in my future.

I do have a overhead hoist which I might use which can easily lift it, if I can find good places to screw in bolts to use for lifting.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I actually took the saw apart each time,,, what a pain but in the end it was worth it.

My router box was a pain because i didn't want that hose sticking out the back so I designed my table to pull the dust down through the table and created a router box fence to channel it down that port. I think you can see the ported hole in the top of the table. In the end, it works great but it was a lot of extra work to get it in there.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

I'm going to have to glue/screw up all except the router boxes, then fit the saw and leave it there. The router box will come last and go under the table. Don't see how else I'd be able to do it, with a definite lack of helpers around here.

I'm just about done with the box for the guards, blades, manuals. Just need to glue up the drawer and it's done.

Let me jump to the next step. Can I get some dimensions for the router box?


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


hey Alan,

That will work because the right side extension table is removable so you can easily access the router portion of the box.

I'll get you measurements tonight ,,, this one is tricky and you might want to go with your own measurements on the router box. The thing is, what you see in my pictures is deceiving as the router box isn't as big as you think. The walls on the left and right are not part of the router box.

check this link out,,,, 
http://lumberjocks.com/tedth66/blog/13875


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. the guard/blade box is finished. Router box next. Now things get complicated again.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Looks GREAT Alan. Are you going to add a couple of 5/8th inch dowels for your blades or do you have something else in mind? If you go with the dowels you might have to have them positioned a bit differently than I do since your left side is taller than my left side. This cabinet is looking rock solid.

Did you get a chance to look at my router box link above? Do you want me to still get you measurements or are you going to change it up? Really with the false walls on the left and right of my router box the box that you see in the link can be any size you want. I recommend small so the dust collection is efficient. The box below the router box is simple ,, you've already established the width; just remember to account for the lip that you're leaving for the boxes (with drawer fronts) under the saw. I have a half inch lip all around the front, left and right of the cabinet. The height of the box that sits under the router box is tricky as this is whatever is left over after you define your router box height. Should I at least get you that measurement?

Ted


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I was thinking about ways of stacking the blades. I have a few plans I've found and stored, but not sure if there is enough width. Clearly blades, dado sets, and the guards are going to live in there.

I would like the router box dimensions. I did look carefully at the link. I'm most concerned at the height, as I'll need to get that pretty darn close as I'm going to try for a single moving of the saw-no trial fits.

Whatever measurements you can get me clearly will help. I've missed a few of them and had to make corrections. This allows me to double check things and not stray too far.

Router bit storage will be a clear priority below the router. I've already made multiple removable inserts, so as long as I keep enough height, that will be a slam dunk. That, and some storage for wrenches, collets, etc.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


my two drawer box under the router is as follows,,,,

25" wide X 16 1/4" tall (including the top with an overhang to match the base) X 23 3/4 deep (front to back from router end of table)

The actual router box on top of the 2-drawer box is 13 1/4" wide X 11 3/4 tall X 11 1/4" deep but there is some extra length in this box that I can't get to,,, it splits the box in two so I could add the hose to pull the dust down through the box via that port in the table. Also note that I used leveler feet on this box so I could snug the box up against the router table. Once I leveled the box to the router top I cut pieces to wedge the router box in so it wouldn't move. Like I mentioned before the sides of this top box are false sides.

Ted


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ah. I'm amazed at all the hidden details in your cabinet. I learn more intricacies with each step.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


The router portion of my cabinet was a pain mainly because of my dust collection scheme. In fact, what you see in the link I posted was my second attempt as I didn't like my first rendition.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


How's the cabinet coming along Alan?


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Got totally sidetracked on another project that took priority. Just finished the other project yesterday, so back to the cabinet.

I need to glue the present boxes in place, paint them, then place the saw on them. Then I'll measure and start the bottom box for the router.

I've been looking at your photos and my workshop space. I think I'm going to orient the drawers so that they open towards the front not the side. That should work better for my shop.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


sounds good. That's the best part of designing and building your own shop cabinets, you can taylor them to your needs.

I'm still trying to get ALL of my tools in storage cabinets that'll allow me to tuck them away and still be able to park my two cars in the garage. I'm nearly there but it's going to be tight. Believe it or not I thought about selling my SawStop and custom cabinet for the SawStop professional cabinet saw so I can buy back some room. The 52" upgrade is taking up a lot of room but since I put the router table on the end I'm thinking I won't gain much. Besides I've put too much work into my cabinet.

Right now I'm building a flip-top planer cabinet so it can be tucked away.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I thought seriously about building a flip top planer cabinet. Looks like a great idea. But then I bought a combo jointer / planer, so no longer needed.

I'm also struggling with the car in the 2-car garage issue - hence my building the cabinet. I hope someday to get the car back in there.

I looked at the cabinet saw too. Actually turned down an offer to trade my contractor's saw for one. The offer came after I started building this cabinet, and I think the extra storage here will suit me better than having the cabinet saw (although the better dust collection would be nice.)

My biggest problem now is finding ways / places to store my jigs: crosscut jig / dado jig / router jigs / router planer sled / etc. No clue where they will go. That Woodhaven full-sized crosscut jig is nice, but it weighs a ton and is huge.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Back on the job. Glued the boxes to the base and started on the drawers. Next step will be the bottom router box. After that, I'll have to figure out how to get a snug fit on the upper router box.

Pictures to follow over the weekend.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Very cool …. I went with riser feet on the router box since you can't see the box and trying to get a snug and level-to-the-rest-of-the-table fit is challenging. I was able to level the table and then adjust the feet to snug it up against the under side of the table. You could also mount the box to the underside of the table and have it float.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Drawers done (except for the false fronts. Have to decide what to do there.)



















Now, bottom router box with drawers. Then the complicated part, the true router table box.

BTW, how do you get Lumberjocks to be able to zoom the pictures on ones that I post?


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


It's looking good Alan. Very Nice!!

Your project postings will allow viewers to zoom in on your pictures where as blogs don't have that feature.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

Can you expand on what you were describing with the riser feet on the router box. I'm not sure how you implemented that.

Thanks.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


you can see the front riser feet in the second picture of my link

http://lumberjocks.com/tedth66/blog/13875

There are two more in the back that you can't see but these feet are adjustable. Once installed I adjusted these feet until the box was snug against the table. Another way to do this is to attach the box to the table using brackets.

I hope this helps.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Bottom box for the router built and glued to the base. I think time to move the SawStop onto the base and then build the top router box.









Time to get some help for heavy lifting.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


looking GREAT Alan. One thing I forgot to check early was the 45 degree miter cut setting. I had to work on the chamfer multiple times before that dust chute cleared the cabinet's inside edge.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Well, got the Sawstop removed from its mobile base and on top of its new painted home. Yeah!!!!

Thankfully I had the overhead hoist and a friend. This wouldn't have been any fun without that.










Unfortunately, big problem now. I just realized that Ted must have 52" rails, and I have the 36" rails. Aaarrggghhh!!! Anyone need 36" rails for a Sawstop???

Only solution I see is to purchase the longer rails. Now I need to find a different location for the cabinet and rearrange my shop. One step forward, two steps back.

Here's the cabinet with the saw on top of it. False fronts for the drawers and two new drawers to go, then on to the router cabinet.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Simply AWESOME Alan. WOW!!! I could've used a hoist like that when I was putting mine together.

Yes I do have the 52" rails. I'm thinking you should design the router box around this versus buying the 52" rails. Right away you've solved an issue with the shorter rails. My router table does not have a miter slot because the rails (angle iron) block both ends of the miter slot. The only way around this for me is to cut a groove in the angle iron but I'm not willing to do this.

Nice paint job. what color are your drawer fronts going to be?


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm thinking just black matching fronts. It will better match the tool chests in my shop.

As it stands, the only way to make mine work with the 36" rails is to build a self supporting router table at the height of the table extension. It would work, I guess, but would look awkward. It would also render my purchased cast iron router table extension top useless.

I'm going to try to get my head around possible solutions. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, your hints about watching out for the clearance of the saw when tilted to 45 degrees worked marvelously. It worked perfectly right out of the box, as I had routed some additional clearance for them.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I didn't realize you had a cast iron router table to add at the end of your cabinet. I suppose the longer rails would aid in supporting this heavy table top.

You're probably right to upgrade to the longer 52" rails. Hopefully you can sell the shorter rails.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I went and ordered the 52" rails. Bummer. I hate ordering things twice. Could be a while until I get it, as I'm going to try to wait until they have another SawStop order to save on freight.

It looks like I'm going to need to drill new holes in the rail for the cast iron router table, as well as cut out areas for the miter slot. Any ideas how to cut the metal. Will a hacksaw work / or dremel / or what will it take?

The saw is unbalanced without right hand support right now, so I'm going to have to build some temporary support to use the saw in the mean time.

I hooked up the dust collection last night. Works pretty well with 6" hose, as long as I cover over the holes in back.

I think I'll finish the last two drawers and build the drawer fronts while I'm waiting. Won't be able to nicely rout the drawer fronts, though.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


You'll probably need to use a angle grinder to get this done because of the thickness of the metal. The bad part will be the powder coating that you'll damage but a little touch-up will make it unnoticeable.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Just realized a big problem with my layout that I bet you addressed, Ted, but I can't see from your pictures. My Sawstop is resting on the four rubber feet, but there's a gap at the bottom that sawdust is just coming out of. Is the metal frame of your SawStop flush with the top piece of wood? If so, I need to lift up the saw again and drill the holes deeper. Or build a small wood frame around the bottom of the saw and caulk it to the saw (less appealing approach, but I wouldn't have to lift the saw again.

Here's the gap now:


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


hey there Alan,
Yes I did address this. Remember when I told you I used a forstner bit and precisely drilled the exact depth of the height of the feet, therefore, my frame sits on the cabinet and I don't have issues with dust leaking from the edges. I like your idea of creating a frame to seal this because the way you have it now gives you a little more height which is what you need for the miter wheel. When I turn the miter wheel the handle comes very close to rubbing on the cabinet.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Going to try putting a small wood frame around it. A kludgy solution, but should work. I know what you mean about the clearance with the miter wheel.

There is a little shimmying that occurs just resting on the feet. The brace I put on the right side of the table has decreased this. Eventually installing the router table will probably eliminate this. Gluing/caulking the frame to the base of the saw should help too.

BTW, on another topic, Ted, did you connect your 4" DC hose to the connection on the bottom of the hose, or just use the one on the dust collection box under the saw. I think we both took the same approach and used the collection box instead of the connector, but I wonder if there is a down side unless you use both.

I made mine a 6" connector for now, with 6" hose into my DC. When I get a cyclone, I'll dramatically shorten the flexible hose length. But I wonder if having a higher velocity airstream by the blade would help.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yes I just installed a 4" port on the back of my dust box. I didn't connect anything to the SawStop port. I think that's what you're asking. My JDS dust collector does an amazing job of pulling the dust out of the box.

I'm thinking of upgrading the blade guard with the dust collection one that Sawstop now makes. I think my festool vac would aid in the dust that doesn't get pulled down into the dust box.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I do use the Festool vac with the new blade guard. It does make a big difference with the dust collection. Make sure to use the larger hose (I think it's the 35mm size), as it is easier to connect/disconnect and it does noticeably improve dust collection performance (though not as noticeable as on a Kapex where it makes a world of difference.)

A slight annoyance is what to do with the hose as it comes out the back. Sawstop does make a setup made for 4" DC hose that holds it up in mid air. Something jerry-rigged would be much cheaper.

But two thumbs up on the improved blade guard. Same thing with the improved design on the zero-clearance insert.

BTW, do you have any sawdust coming out the back of the SawStop? I've partially covered it with magnetic sheet, but it's by no means airtight. I saw someone who was thinking about just boxing it in. I can't imagine it would get that hot considering that it's only used for short periods of time.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the recommendation on the blade guard by Sawstop. One reason why I don't already have the upgraded blade guard is due to not using the standard one. I suspect I'd use it a lot more with the improvement in capturing the dust on the top. What does Sawstop charge for this upgrade? I imagined building an arm support (pvc pipe since it's light and rigid) that attaches to the right side of the fence or integrate it into a newly designed router fence that moves with the tablesaw fence. I've got too many projects in mind. 

I built some plates to cover most of the opening on the back. I used rare earth magnets so I could easily remove them when I make miter cuts. Since the entire assembly moves when you adjust for miter cuts, removing these plates is necessary. You can see the plates sitting on top of my tall cabinet in picture #6 and installed in picture #5.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I don't remember what SawStop charges for the guard. I've had mine for a while.

I've thought of the rare earth magnet approach also. I'll definitely try it too. Hard to see in your picture. Did you use wood pieces with rare earth magnets glued inside forstner bit holes?

Interesting dust hood, Charlie.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


yes I used 1/4 inch mdf panel piece and Gorilla glued the magnets in the forstner bit holes. I used a piece of cardboard to mock up the shape. I used two pieces so I can cover both the left side of the motor and the right side of the belt. I'll take some better pictures and post them so you can see.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I think the gap around the belt should provide more than enough fresh air, much less the little in the zero clearance insert, and other miscellaneous gaps. 6" diameter isn't that much area (28.3in^2 actually). But your point is very well taken. Air tight wouldn't work at all. I think a totally boxed in back would need some ventilation holes in the back. That would still work better than no box, as the sawdust wouldn't likely go out those holes-they would have air of decent velocity being pulled in by the DC. It might increase the noise-I can imagine a whistling sound from the air entering it. Might also raise SP a fair bit too.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Also there is a big gap in the front of the saw that plenty of air comes in from. In fact, I like this gap in the front as it pulls the air from the front to the back where my port is located. I can also control how much air is being pulled by opening other blast gates. My JDS DC is rated at 1700 CFM and my tablesaw is fairly close to the DC so I keep a couple other blast gates open and it's working great. Before the dust collector I had a shop vac connected with a dust deputy and that only did so-so.

Alan yours is going to work great when you frame the base and semi-seal the back. It's impossible to seal the back totally but just enough to control the air flow within the box. Without the chassis sitting on the base I imagine you're getting some swirling happening and the dust is settling around the sides.

Once I add the upgraded blade guard to the saw I don't imagine it getting any better for controlling the dust.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Here are the photos of my plates. The small 'L' shaped plate isn't really necessary but it does cover up a gap on the left side of the belt (picture 6) and as you can see from the last photo there's still plenty of opening around the belt for air flow. Let me know if you want me to get you some measurements off of my plates. Making these were a bit of a pain since it was a lot of trial and error.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Absolutely fascinating. Yes, Ted, I would love the measurements. I can see how these would dramatically reduce sawdust coming out of the back of the saw. Thanks.

Been suffering making the last two drawers for under the router. I made them too wide by 1/2", and only noticed after I finished routing the dovetails. Aaarrghhhh!!!! So a trip to the SCMS with the drawer front and back, and painful trial and error with the drawer bottom, and I think one is done. Measured everything perfectly for the other front drawers. Must have had a brain fart on these two.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Here you go Alan. The first 3 pictures are of the 'L' shaped piece. The first picture captures the entire piece and then I zoomed in on the measurements just in case they aren't readable in the zoomed out picture. The same goes for the larger plate. Obviously the pictures are of the back of the plates. The rare earth magnets on the 'L' shaped piece match up with the larger main plate so make sure your polarity is correct before gluing them in the recessed hole. The larger plate starts with an 18 1/4" X 10 7/8" piece of 1/4 inch MDF.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Fantastic Ted. That's an immense help. OK, that's next on the list.

Oh, just got a call from Woodcraft. My SawStop 52" rails are in. Have to figure out how to get them home, but that's on the list too.

I built and caulked on a small wood frame for the left, right and front bottom of the saw. The sawdust leakage from there is now a distant memory. Looking more carefully at the saw, without somewhat enclosing the back, there is way too large an opening in the back of the saw. This would clearly lead to decreased air speed in the collection box at the bottom of the saw, which would result in sawdust remaining in the box (I also have mine full size - I haven't made it smaller yet like you did). I think there is no question that you have to somewhat close in the back of the saw to make this setup work effectively.

Thanks again,

Alan


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Outstanding news on your 52inch rails and sorry about your woes on the router cabinet drawers. That's frustrating putting in all that work and having them not fit ~ especially with fancy dovetailing. I take the non-fancy route and use my DowelMax for the drawer joinery. The DowelMax jig is my favorite. 

Yes my dust cabin only has a little over half the capacity of the top portion of the cabinet. At one time I even thought about making it smaller but I'm really happy with it's performance so far. If I ever take the saw off the cabinet I'll consider putting some panels in to angle the dust towards the port. I agree closing most of the back creates air flow from front to back where the port is. This prevents a lot of dust settling towards the front of the cabinet.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


not an issue Charlie I have a proven design that I've been using for nearly a year. I'm helping a fellow lumberjock create his own. I'm not having the issues that you describe so it's all good. My dust collection is working beautifully and I don't plan to change a thing.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


No worries, Charlie. All suggestions are appreciated.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Rails are at home. Hopefully install them tomorrow. New drawers should actually fit this time. Hope not to make that mistake again.

The small wood frame seems to be holding and be air tight on the 3 sides. After the rails are installed, I'll take some new pictures of the wood frame and the new rails. Then time to think about finding a metal shop to cut the slots in the front rail for the miter slot of the cast iron router table top.

I ordered some additional rare earth magnets to use for the back pieces.

When you use your saw, do you also use a magnetic board to block of the air coming from the front of the saw with the miter angle gauge, or do you leave that open? I have the cheap magnetic sign stuff blocking the hole right now. I was wondering if you found that helpful.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


No I leave the front open as I think it's creating air flow from front to back towards the dust port. I think if I blocked the front the dust collection wouldn't work nearly as well.

Great news on the rails. Let me know how the metal cutting goes.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm hoping the next week is a productive one. I just installed the two drawers below where the router table will be, will hopefully install the rails and build the router box, then remove the rails / cast iron router table top in order to cut the rails (probably looking for a metalworking shop to do that, if I can find one.)

While I'm waiting for that, I'll hopefully cut out the false fronts for all the drawers and install them.

I traced out the outline of the dust collection shield for the back of the saw last night, and will start cutting it out today. I only have a band saw and a crappy useless jig saw, so I'll have to figure out how to cut out the shield from the MDF, though. Did you use a jig saw, Ted, or a band saw for that?

Once that's done, time to work on customizing and installing the table saw extension table.

An ambitious week planned, but I do have the week off from work, so who knows how productive I'll get.

Interestingly, I changed blade guards last night, and noticed a decent amount of sawdust just sitting on the bottom portion of the plastic dust chute below the blade. So with the openings I have at present, there isn't sufficient airflow velocity to clear the chute. I'll have to look again after I close off most of the gaps in the back to see if the sawdust is gone from there.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Alan,
YES,,, not having work get in the way will help you conquer these tasks.

I used a jigsaw to cut 1/4 inch mdf. Mine are far from perfect but they do a superb job of creating air flow from front to back and from top to back; despite what this Charlie character thinks. Is he trying to sell that 2 dollar sheet metal port?

I haven't noticed dust sitting in the chute. I suspect once you create that airflow like I have you'll see a drastic improvement. Did you decrease the dust cabin volume like I did?

If all else fails maybe you can purchase that HVAC part that Charlie is trying to sell. I'm sure that'll fix all of your problems. :-o

BTW Alan all saws need some cleaning maintanence to keep them in tip top shape.

This weekend I just upgraded my router plate to the Rockler router lift. I was worried I'd have to rebuild the box since the plate is much larger but it worked great.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Wow Charlie. You've got some serious issues. I'm really not sure what you're trying to accomplish here, other than selling your piece of sheet metal. I'm also not sure why you get so worked up when people don't bite. Alan and I clearly took a different path to solve more than a dust collection issue. We also wanted/needed storage and wanted to integrate a router table into our cabinet. Mission accomplished in my book and I'm guessing we capture dust just as well or better than your device. We too don't use a 90 degree bend so I'm not sure what makes your solution any better than our solution. BTW you don't know anything about me… 2yrs??? HA!!

Here's a tip for you ~ the word 'project' doesn't have the letter 'd' and you really need to drop the 'e' when you add 'ing'. The best tip of all is, if you don't like or agree with something, how about NOT commenting on it?

Alan, don't be offended by Charlie's negative attitude as I've seen some of his other postings and they too have a negative tone. One of the better ones was, "I could improve your design, but it's not worth my time". WOW!!!!


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK, back to the project. I've built the two shields for the back of the saw. I used my band saw, and Dremel sanded out the cuts I could do with my 14" band saw. Looks great, rare earth magnets installed on the larger one. I'm awaiting the magnets for the smaller piece (I ran out of what I had at home). I used magnet cups for the magnets, so epoxying them in took seconds. The second one is being painted. Pictures to follow, but your measurements worked without modification on the larger piece. I needed to make the smaller piece slightly thinner by about a 1/16 of an inch.

I'm using too much corrugated 6" flexible hose for my DC to the SawStop. Also, the 2HP HF DC which it is a steal monetarily, doesn't compare with a cyclone for dust collection. Even though I have added a Wynn cartridge and modified it to 6" throughout, it's not a cyclone. Once that's added (and I sell my HF / Thien separator setup), I'll have both more space and dramatically greater CFM. All should get better. I can imagine how your PSI cyclone improved dust collection.

I haven't reduced the volume of the cavity yet. I'll get to that as I make the false fronts for the drawers.

Well, off to the BORG to get MDF for the false fronts. Everything else is 3/4" ply, but I think I'll get smoother finished work with MDF like you used for the drawer fronts. I haven't decided yet if I'll rout the edges to ease them some or create a profile. I might get lazy here and just install them.

This cabinet is part of a major renovation of my garage into a workshop. With each task I do for this table, 9 others pop up for other things. I had to stop to make a butcher block top for my Kapex SCMS, build drawers for a shelving unit, and build 2 smaller cabinets. All this on top of my 100 hr/wk job. It's amazing I've gotten anything done. But, slow and steady will win the race. Except if your Usain Bolt. In his case, big and fast always wins. YMMV.

Off to the BORG.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I didn't use the magnet cups and I also recessed the magnets into the 1/4" mdf using a forstner bit and glued them with Gorilla glue. The total thickness of the two pieces is slightly over a half an inch as I didn't drill too deep into the mdf. When you install the large piece you slide it in from left to right with the top edge tilted towards you to prevent the magnets from attaching.

I have the JDS cyclone DC and it is working very well for me. I really like it's compact size and the built in cyclone. Although going this route forced me to wire in a 220 line. The bonus was while I was at it I wired in a couple more 20A 110 lines. It was well worth the time and money I spent on this. I think you're headed down the right path to conquer the dust issue. I can't speak for other DC brands but as I mentioned I'm very happy with the JDS model. The only other thing I'd do to my cabinet is angle in the internal walls of the dust cabin. I'd only do this if for some reason I had to remove the saw and I don't see that happening anytime soon. Reducing air pockets (such as corners etc) is a good thing.

Reducing the cabin volume will help you a lot. Be careful you don't go too far as that dust chute might run into it. It's very difficult to determine the travel on that thing. At one time I was going to cut that thing 

If you're using MDF for the fronts and you plan on routing the edges, be sure to use a top notch primer on those routed edges as they need to be sealed before painting. I sprayed on 2 coats of Zinsser shellac primer lightly sanding in between.

Merry Christmas Alan and good luck with all the projects you have on your plate.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I drilled entirely through the MDF and have the magnets contact the metal directly. Certainly has more than enough attraction to not move at all.

Back from the BORG, with MDF aplenty.

I thought about using dewaxed shellac as a primer for the MDF. I guess I'll take that route. An extra step, but shellac dries incredibly quickly. Especially the spray kind. I've been using Rustoleum black High Performance Protective Enamel paint. Thick and a bit of a pain to apply, but it's incredibly durable. Really doesn't need a second coat. It also tends to flow and even itself out, eliminating brush strokes.

Merry Christmas, Ted.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'll have to give that paint that you mentioned a try. Durable paint is a necessity in the shop.

Merry Christmas Alan


----------



## DrAllred (Sep 2, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I have been following this project as I have a contractors sawstop also, I am just waiting for the finish line to decide if this is some thing I want to tackle.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


@DrAllred ~ how do you like your SawStop? I love mine and if I had to replace it I'd only replace it with another SawStop. I haven't ever tested the brake system and don't plan to.  I'm still ultra careful when it comes to working with power tools. I think Alan's SawStop cabinet will be as good or BETTER than mine. I sure hope so, so a certain someone can stop worrying over this project.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


DrAllred:

Welcome to the blog. I love my SawStop also. The instruction manual / parts containers / instruction posters should win some sort of award. They were amazing. I've seen too many people missing digits to not insist on the technology.

I actually turned down swapping my contractor's saw for a cabinet saw during the project. The extra storage space and router table will be fantastic when finished.

Feel free to post any comments / suggestions / etc.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


FYI Alan, 
This is what I did with the false drawer on the cabinet. Originally I was going to make this a flip down tray that looked like a drawer but decided that was too much work for the little space gained.




























You can see where I reduced the internal volume of the dust cabin by about a 1/3.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm thinking of making a small bottom piece to attach to the front of the internal vertical board so that I can slide it in without it falling over, then glue/screw it in place.

I see you did rout the corners of the drawers. It does look better, but I'm not sure I wouldn't screw it up. I looks like you just eased them slightly. 1/4" roundover bit?? 1/8" roundover bit??

I've been painting the drawer fronts for the last 3 days. It keeps getting cold down here which is screwing up my timing (unheated garage / workshop). Additionally, I've never painted MDF before, and despite the 2 coats of dewaxed shellac, it is soaking up the paint like I can't believe. Black can be an unforgiving color (if you ever owed a black car, you know what I mean.)

Hopefully I can get the paint finished on a decent number of false fronts so that I can install them as the cold front comes through.

How did you attach the false drawer front on the dust cabin? I've got a temporary one screwed in (to give me access to the dust cabin in case I drop a wrench in, though I guess I'll have to get my hand in through the DC hole in the future.) Once I install the interior wall to decrease the volume of the dust cabin that access will be gone.

Your pictures / help are appreciated as always.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


There are many ways to reduce the internal volume. I'm sure what ever you decide will work just fine.

I did use a 1/4" round and did this on my router table.

I highly recommend the Zinsser shellac based primer as it sealed the edges and face of the MDF if it too is pourous. It did require sanding and a few coats but this was something I really worried about but once sanded it was perfect. I've also heard of people using 3 parts yellow glue and one part water to seal the edges.

I do know what you mean about black being unforgiving. Black has many shades and it doesn't take much to expose all of it's shades.

My false drawer front isn't attached, it's a snug fit; in fact, I have to align it perfectly to get the thing back in. Had the false drawer been loose fitting I would've hard mounted it. I've dropped the arbor nut before but it was easy to retrieve through the dust port. My dust collection is so efficient that I didn't have to search through any dust to get to it.

Good luck with the painting. I hated almost every second of the painting process.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Alan,
I went to Woodcraft today and ordered the newly designed blade guard with dust port. I should have it in a week and looking at the design of the guard I'm guessing the cabinet along with this new blade guard, I'll be capturing 99%+ of the dust created by my saw. I plan on attaching the the Festool Vac + Dust Deputy (hanging from the ceiling) to the port.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I just stumbled on this, for the first time.

All I can say is … HOW COOL !!!!

And …. for the two of you to be "working this through," together-"in front of the rest of us-" is … maybe … the coolest part, yet !

Bravo ! I'll keep tuning in, if you'll keep posting the process, the project, and the results


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Welcome, Neil. It's been a tremendous learning experience for me. Ted built an amazing cabinet for his SawStop. I've started modifying it for my skills and particular needs. Once I get the router box completed, I'll start breaking new ground with the extension table and hopefully some neat ideas I have for turning the top into a removable workbench. Every new detail Ted shows me of his impresses me with the great amount of thought and little details he incorporated.

It's been a ton of work, and I'm not near the finish line yet, but I think I can start to see it soon.

Alan


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

Congrats on the SawStop blade guard. It really is a better design. Do you have their new zero clearance insert style too? It also is a significant design improvement.

I just have the blade guard connected directly to the Festool Vac. I'm not sure adding the second stage to blade guard collection adds much. I don't seem to be changing the Festool vac bags very frequently.

Did you get the 36mm hose? It really is more convenient, and works better with the vac. The smaller hose has to fit inside the SawStop guard, and it's a tight fit.

Have you planned out how you are going to keep the Festool hose of the table and out of the way of the wood on the outfeed side?

I eased the edges of the drawers today. Shouldn't have skipped that step before. Just added more work to do it later, and I had to repaint. Oh well, lesson learned.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


BTW, yet more coats of paint on the MDF. Boy it soaks it up. Wish I could have sprayed it. Would have been far easier.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Thanks Neil the project was very demanding but when I completed my cabinet it was more than worth the time and effort I put into it and I'm betting Alan will feel the same when he completes his cabinet.

Alan ~ that's what I was kind of confused about today at Woodcraft. I paid 130 bucks but I'm not sure if that comes with the new zero clearance plate or not. I assumed it did because of the new design of the blade guard but since you asked about the plate I'm now wondering if my assumption was off.

I use my Festool vac for other things and didn't want to continue to buy bags so that's why I connect the dust deputy. The Festool vac works great with the biscuit joiner and sanders including my Jet oscillating spindle sander. I also use it when I use the DowelMax and the Pocket Hole Jig. I purchased a bike hoist today so I could build a platform and hang my Festool Vac with Dust Deputy from the ceiling and lower it slightly if I need to use it. I think this in itself will allow me to hook up the Festool to the SawStop and not have the hose get in my way … I'll soon see if this is a good idea or not. Either way it gets the vacuum off my garage floor which is a huge plus. I also thought about rebuilding my router fence (box) and attaching it to the right side of the SS fence and run PVC pipe out the back of the box to mock the support bar that SStop sells. I'll have to make it so it telescopes for different fence settings. It's an early idea but I'll let you know where I go with this as soon as I get the blade guard.

Wow I can't believe how much that MDF is soaking up paint even though you primed it. I forgot to mention that I sprayed on the primer and sanded in between coats. Whether you spray or brush it on I don't think it really matters. Spraying the primer on leaves it gritty but light sanding knocks it down to a very smooth finish.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I can't remember if the new blade guard contained the new zero clearance fence. I got them at the same time, so you may be right. It might be one price for all of them.

I bought the festool vacuum overhead boom. I'm thinking more and more that the purchase was a mistake. It makes the vacuum much larger, and the boom really needs a longer vacuum hose to use for stuff low to the ground. Not sure if a larger hose is the solution, or abandoning the boom. Very mixed feelings about it now.

I'm anxiously awaiting your blade guard PVC solution. If I come up with a different solution, I'll let you know. I know it needs something. Once the outfeed table is done, I'll have to solve the hose problem.

I also can't understand why the edges of MDF soak up paint different than the faces. It's not like it's real wood with end grain and face grain. Yet I seem to be nowhere near getting the edges glossy like the faces.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Well I sure hope it comes with the zero clearance plate; the 130 price tag on it tells me it should. That was one of the first things I noticed on the display model at Woodcraft.

I know what you mean about the boom arm. I never did purchase the boom or the table. The Saw and the the Vac were expensive in itself so I made my own boom arm out of PVC. It worked for what I needed it for.

I looked at the SawStop arm that is mounted to the rear rail and it's a pretty sweet design. The pipe is obviously rigid enough to not need support on that long run where as PVC pipe would need something to support it. My early thoughts are to support it at the fence with a slightly larger diameter PVC pipe ~ this is where it would need to slide for fence adjustments. That's just one idea but I might not pursue that idea IF my hanging Festool Vac solves this issue. Yes, if you come up with other ideas please share. I've always hated when that Festool hose got hung up while using the TS55. I'm also hoping that this problem will be somewhat solved with the hanging vac.

I'm also thinking about a much needed outfeed table solution. I really like what other lumberjocks have done with the attached folding outfeed table but I really don't want to add any more weight to this cabinet. What is your plan for the outfeed table?

The faces of MDF are sealed and very smooth unlike the edges which are very pourous. Believe me this was my biggest worry when using MDF for the drawer fronts. I did a lot of research on how-to paint MDF. I even found a site that showed you how to make a piece of MDF have a mirror finish. My research led me to the Zinsser shellac based primer. But since this is the only primer I've used on MDF, I don't know if this is the difference from my results and what you're noticing. I'll take a picture of an area where the MDF edges are facing out (where my router switch is mounted) and you'll see that it is as shiny smooth as the face. The only way I was able to achieve this was by sealing it with primer; I might have even used more than two coats on this area but I can't remember. I do know that I kept adding primer and sanding until the little pits disappeared. Another idea I read about and I think I tested it out was sealing the edges with Drywall Compound. This was a messy process and required too much sanding. The bottom line is the edges need to be sealed and if you see little pits before painting, the paint will only expose them more.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


For the outfeed table I was planning on modifying the folding one shown in the February 2009 Woodworker's Journal. I actually ordered a reprint of the magazine. Here's a picture of the table. It is designed for a cabinet saw, but installation on ours should actually be easier as we now have wood at the base of the table instead of the metal saw cabinet. I'll likely make it a little wider, though. I think wider is better for an outfeed table. Let me know if you want a copy of the whole plans for it.










I did seal the MDF with spray Zinser dewaxed sealer. I think either my coats were too thin, or you must have put on more and not realized it. This really is the first time I've used MDF on a project (the rest of my cabinet is made from 3/4" oak plywood). I'm fascinated by it. Let me know the link to that mirror image MDF finish if you remember it. Must have taken that person some real work. That being said, the MDF does have some real advantages here, and ultimately was a better choice, I think.

For the SawStop DC arm, I have to look at the pictures. My Woodcraft didn't have one on their saws. One thought for me might be to take the Festool arm of my vac and mount it to the saw cabinet. Might get the best of both worlds there. Also, I might use a wye connector once I get the cyclone and just use that instead of the Festool for the blade guard. But as you have to take the guard on and off for some operations, then I'd need another gate, and have to reduce the bottom opening to 5" for the DC, so there are some negatives to that approach as well.

For right now I took my SawStop outfeed table and added 2 2×4 legs to it and am using it for the saw. It doesn't fold, and looks amateurish, but I'll use it to build its replacement.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ahh yes, I have these plans too but thanks. I looked at the angle iron rail on the back of my saw (doesn't seem to be 90 degrees) and I'm wondering if that attached piece of the outfeed table can be made level with the table. I think in order to do this it'll require lag bolts from the cast iron tops to the fixed outfeed portion of the table. What do you think?

I sprayed the entire cabinet using the Rockler HVLP sprayer so I might have had a large volume of primer coming out but there was one thing that I made sure of and that was; I made sure I put on enough coats to get rid of the pits that appear on the edges. I remember sanding the edges quite a bit to get them nice and smooth. The great thing about paint is if you don't like the results you just paint over it. I'm not an expert on painting and pretty much hated this part of the project.

I guess we'll tackle these issues with the DC arm and outfeed table at a later date.

Hopefully you have better luck with the painting.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I thought about using the angle iron pieces from the SawStop extension table to help with the adjustment of the level of the outfeed table. They work pretty well. Let me know if you need a picture of that setup. They use machine bolts upside down which rest on the SawStop's back rails to adjust the height. Simple and effective. They then use a second set of machine bolts to go through holes in the back rails to affix it snugly to the rails.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


oh that would be great if you could post a picture. thanks


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Here it is. As you can see, there are two types of bolts (same sized, but the higher bolts are used for height adjustment and don't go through the bottom part of the rail, and the lower bolts that go through all the pieces and are used to tighten the table to the saw.)

Obviously, both rails need to be threaded to make this work. Otherwise, it could be done with double sets of nuts, but it would be much more of a pain to adjust.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ahhhh… VERY COOL!! thanks for sharing. I never purchased their outfeed table and now I'm thinking I should've. This would make building a fold-down outfeed table much easier to deal with.

BTW ~ NICE backing on your saw to cover most of the hole. VERY NICE!!!


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Frankly I'm not that impressed with their outfeed table. Yes, the attachment mechanism works quite well, but the table easily scratches and the miter slots aren't long enough. I had to rout them larger (didn't come out too wonderful, but it works.) It also needs to be wider. The only part of the table I'm going to save is the attachment hardware.

I thought you'd notice the hole covering.  Just waiting on the magnets to finish that part.

I would call them up and see if you could order the attachment hardware / angle iron as replacement parts.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm guessing the outfeed table is made out of that phenolic junk. It looks good at the start but if you put anything on the table top it scratches, as you well know.

I'll see what those brackets cost… I'm guessing an arm and a leg.


----------



## Darell (Jul 23, 2008)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Can't wait to see this completed. I want to build one for my SawStop Contractor saw. Got this one and Ted's favorited for guidance. You've both saved me a lot of headache.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Thanks Darell… a time consuming but fun and very rewarding project. I can't tell you how much this cabinet has helped me dual purpose my garage. Also the additional storage, integrated router table and efficient dust management are huge benefits to my garage/shop.

I'm sure Alan will agree when all is said and done.

We're happy to help if you decide to tackle this project.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Good news - the 52" rails are installed. It will kill me to have to take them off again to get them cut for the miter groove on the router table, but I thought the only way to get the right side of the cabinet correct is to install them. BTW, I have the right-sided extension table from the 36" saw and the holes don't line up with the 52" rails. Do you have that issue, Ted? If not, could you measure the wood extension piece that you have? It may be different sized from the 36" version. It appears that I can just drill two holes in the table to make it match, so the solution isn't very difficult.

Bad news - I really rot at painting. I never enjoy the finishing part of projects (mainly because my talents certainly don't lie there). I have a lot of sanding to do on the false fronts and repainting. I really can't spray paint black paint in my garage, but I really need to. The unseasonably cold weather that hit us down here is putting a crimp in those plans. Hopefully it will warm up. I caved in and ordered a heater for the garage, but it will be about a week until that arrives - after my vacation is over.

Welcome, Darell.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


hey Alan,
I don't have that issue with my extension support brackets but I scraped that phenolic table top. I'll measure the table top that I made (length and width or Router side table) and post it. I'm pretty sure that's the measurement you're asking for. let me know if it isn't.

How about holding off on the painting until it warms up? I did the same. My early cabinet was unpainted for quite a while. I assembled the drawer fronts on so I could use the cabinet and as soon as it warmed up I taped them up and painted them. It's a little more painful but it worked. I wished I took pictures of the mess I had in the garage during the painting stage. I HATE painting too and I even searched for someone to paint the thing but had no luck. In the end I learned how to deal with painting MDF. The answer to MDF for me is still Zinsser shellac based primer. Are you sick of me saying that yet??  oh and I'll try to find that site where the guy shows step-by-step on how to paint a piece of MDF so it has a mirror-like finish.

measurements coming soon. let me know if I'm not getting you the correct measurements you're looking for.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


here's that site…

http://shoryuken.com/f177/how-paint-mdf-mirror-finish-worklog-191692/


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


The extension table replacement measures 27" X 39 7/8". That includes a 1/4" piece of hardwood trim on the end of the table (router side).


----------



## Darell (Jul 23, 2008)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Checked out those plans on Woodstore. Think I might buy them to use as a baseline when I get ready to build one of these for my SawStop Contractor saw. I'm really likeing what you guys are doing with this. Got a few other projects ahead of this in the pipeline but it's moving closer to the head of the que. This afternoon I'm installing the above table dust collection hood and the tubing kit from SawStop on my saw. After that a Wynn cannister on my Delta 50-760. That should help a bunch till I get one of these built. I'll keep an eye on this for updates. Thanks for all the info.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

Wow, that site is amazing. I can honestly say that my piece bears no resemblance to that guy's MDF. I used to spend a lot of time detailing my cars, so I can appreciate the technique. I never thought of applying it to wood, though.

Spackle as a sealer. Didn't see that one coming. Certainly worked for him.

I've thought of re-sanding mine some more and eventually adding a clear coat as a final coat. I'm leaning more in that direction as I read his post. It helps that I have all the sandpaper grades and multiple, multiple car polishes of different grades of abrasiveness at home. Plus experience with that black car again.

You'll have to tell me how you found that guys thread some time. Impressively obscure location.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Darell:

Please post some pictures of the DC tubing kit from SawStop. Ted and I are both thinking about how to attack the problem of the hose over the table.

In my particular case, my dust collector is to the left of the saw, and the present intake below the saw is 6" not 2.5" or 4", so the SawStop solution won't work well out of the box. I think a home brewed solution would be a better plan.
Alan


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

The extension table for the 36" rails is 19-3/4" x 27". I think the smaller size is going to help, not hurt things, but I will have to drill holes in the table to match the holes in the 52" rails.

Here's a picture of the 36" rail extension table on the 52" rails:









The cast iron router table top looks to fit nicely to the right of the 36" extension table. It won't go beyond the rails. I will have to make cutouts for the miter slot, as well as holes in the rail in the appropriate spots for the router table top, but assuming I can get that done, it should be solid as a rock. The router table dust box will need to function as support for the cast iron router table top. Otherwise, there will be way too much weight on the right side of the rails.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yes you're right in that the router box will have to support the cast iron table. That's going to be one heavy router side of the cabinet. My table goes to the very end of the front rail so I added a short piece of trim to the shorter back edge of the extension table. The drawers look good so far.

I found that site in my quest to conquer 'painting MDF'. I tried using drywall compound on a test piece and it was a complete mess. There was too much sanding involved to get rid of the excess compound.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm going to give the paint 1 more day to cure (It's been going down to the low 30's at night the past few nights. So much for sunny Florida.) Then I'm going to try sanding at 400 grit till smooth (or perhaps starting at 320 and going to 400). If this works, then the paint will act as a primer. I'll probably then try clear spray paint to act as a clear coat on top of it. I don't need a mirror finish, just reasonably high gloss with some consistency across the board for it to look good.

I was planning to have the router box totally support the cast iron table. That should be plenty of support for the right side of the table. Getting it the exact right height for the top to be level might get interesting.

Mine should be closer to the router table going to the edge of the back rail, not the front rail. It will be interesting to see how their looks compare visually.

I'm going to use the top drawer to house router bits (plus some other stuff I'm sure). I have some MDF squares that I've been using with 1/2" or 1/4" holes drilled in them. I'll make some sort of dividers to keep them orderly. Probably will only take up the right half of the drawer.

Here's the router bits now in a drawer:










My longer router bits are two tall for the present drawer, so this setup will be perfect. Just need to keep them from moving around in the drawer.


----------



## Darell (Jul 23, 2008)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'll see what I can do. Pics are easy to take but it takes me awhile to get them posted from photobucket. I always forget how and have to relearn. LOL


----------



## Darell (Jul 23, 2008)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Just posted a review on the dust collection system. You're probably right in that your set up wouldn't work well with this kit. It shouldn't be hard to come up with something though.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. I'm sure you are all sick of me whining about my lack of finishing skills, especially when they pertain to MDF. So considering that it's too cold to paint for the next few days anyway, I totally switched gears today to building the router portion of the cabinet.

Being fairly motivated today, I quickly put together a frame for the extension table to sit on, as well as for the cast iron router top to sit on. Interestingly, none of the holes in the router table fit the rails on the Sawstop. It's not an issue of the distance between the holes, it's that the holes on the SawStop fence would hold the fence way too low vertically. Strange. The good news is that the miter slot looks to be a very minor matter of removing a very small amount of material from the rails-much less than anticipated. This may be a job for a Dremel instead of a welding torch.

My biggest issue would appear to be how to micro-adjust the height of the router table. Not sure how to attack that one yet.

Here is a picture of the outside router box in progress. An inner box to hold the router and provide a smaller cavity for dust collection will come next.










You can see how the router table will sit on the right end of the table top, almost reaching the ends of the rails. In practice, this will decrease the 52" rails to a few inches less usable distance, but more than enough for my needs, and much more than with my previous 36" rails.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Alan I like your router bit organization with the individual blocks. I have my bits stored in the top drawer but used a single piece of MDF. The individual blocks might be more handy.

Thanks Darell I'll take a look at it. I have a few ideas to make my own; the question is will it look cheesy.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Alan I just saw your new post. I have a suggestion. How about scraping that phenolic extension and making a new one only longer so it positions your router table closer to the end of the rails? I'm thinking that you're going to be reaching too far into the table to use the router.

BTW - that is one SWEET router table. I'm sure it weighs a ton.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Interesting suggestion. What would make a good alternative top for that piece?

One step forward, one step back. Sigh…


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'd use 3/4" thick MDF and laminate it with formica. This is what I did to replace that thin phenolic top that got scratched on day one of using the saw.

I only suggested this as I think you might find yourself leaning over to use the router table. I'm assuming you used the measurements that I gave you.

If you do replace the phenolic top with MDF+Formica you'll find it's really easy. All it takes is contact cement rolled on the MDF and rolled on the Laminate and when they get tacky dry you place it on and roll it flat. You then take a trim router bit to the over hanging laminate.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I think my section of the cabinet with the large vertical pullout must be wider than yours, as I only very slightly find myself leaning over. I wouldn't have even noticed it if you hadn't mentioned it. I could add an MDF + laminate piece a few inches larger than the present phenolic piece to it to the left of the router top, or I could add an MDF + laminate piece to the far right end of the table top to make the support area of the router table effectively a little larger.

I'll do some measurements later, and take a better picture, but I suspect that I'm leaning less than you think.

The router table top is heavy. It's lift-able, but I wouldn't want to get my fingers caught underneath it.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Regardless of what I say you definitely know better than I do. In my mind I imagined moving my router position back on my cabinet to your position and pictured having to lean over to use it effectively. Again the picture might make it seem farther back than it really is and I'm not the tallest person in the world.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm only about 5'-9 1/2", so basketball was never a strong suit.

And I agree, the phenolic table scratches the day you get the saw. No love lost there. There is also a real advantage in cutting the supports under the phenolic table in half, and using them to support a new top. That would fix the issue of the extension table holes not lining up correctly with the 52" rails, and make leveling it ten times easier.

Here are the measurements I came up with. There must be a difference in out setups.

If I move the router table so that its edge is even with the right side of the cabinet, I need a 3.5" larger extension table. That will leave about 50" of usable rail space - enough for sheet goods.

If I move the router table so that its edge is even with the end of the front rail, I need a 4.75" larger extension table. This regains the full use of the 52" rails, but will overhang the bottom of the cabinet.

If I move the router table so that its edge is even with the end of the back rail, I need a 1-15/16" larger extension table. Not sure that is worth the effort for 2" less reach to use the router.

I think the first plan makes the most sense.

Ted - How far is the beginning of your router insert opening from the edge of the cabinet? I think that measurement will tell how our setups are different.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I have 8" from the "beginning of my router insert opening" to the end of the router table edge. I maintained 8" because that's what my original Rockler router table had. My table top is basically the same length (+/- 1/8" due to the trim I added on the router table top) as the top that sits just above my top drawer on the router table side. Your router drawers are on the same side of the table saw drawers so maybe that's the difference.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Butted up against the present extension table, I have 6.5" from the cabinet edge to the beginning to the router table insert.

Clearly the cast iron insert I have has a much smaller distance from the router insert opening to the edge of the router table (It's only 2.75" as opposed to the 8" on your Rockler.) That's why we're seeing the big difference. Boy, 2.75" plus 4.25" to the bit makes only 7" of support of the wood. Not a heck of a lot of support.

So, actually, I might have to do the opposite - Add a piece of MDF to the end of the Router table insert and take it even with the end of the cabinet (actually, 0.75" less to allow for the doors to get to the router.)


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Thought about this a lot today. Here's what I think would be the best solution:

Clearly my cast iron router table has a small distance from the edge to the bit. But it is what it is, and I'll try to live with it. That being said, moving the table out towards the edge will visually look better, and afford larger cross cutting area on the table saw.

I'm now wondering if there is any reason to cut the rails at all for the miter slot. Can't things that use the miter slot just slip in from the top? If that isn't true, someone please let me know. That being said, if I move the router top to 1.75" from the edge of the cabinet, once the 0.75" doors are in, the edge will be 1" from the edge of the cabinet. That should look good, and be a reach to use. Also won't increase my footprint, which I really can't do.

Here's a picture of what the top would look like, seen from the back. As you can see, the miter slot is available from the back in this configuration.









And this is the table configuration from the top:









To make this work, I'll have to resize the support box underneath, then make a new MDF/Laminate extension table (about 3 3/8" longer than the old one.) To support it, I'll cut the steel supports from the old table in half, and match each half with the appropriate new hole location on the rails. That makes the extension more secure plus more easily leveled.

I'll still have to come up with a way to support the cast iron router table. I can support it underneath with the wood box, but I'll likely have to drill holes in the rails to support it also. This would tie the whole table together more securely anyway.

OK. Been long winded. Any comments? Suggestions?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I now see better what you're dealing with if you slide the router table toward the end. Since your miter slot is open on the infeed side I think you're set. This might take a little effort if your router miter gauge isn't able to do this but if you rotate the gauge portion (half circle) of the gauge 180 degrees so the miter bar length is extended on the rounded end of the gauge you won't need that opening on the left side of the router table. Again you might have to drill a hole in the miter gauge bar and thread it for the adjustment screw.

I really like this setup with the slight overhang (I think you mentioned an inch) of the router box. This is what I was thinking you wouldn't get in your first setup, but wasn't sure.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Sounds like a plan. It sure would have been easier if the holes lined up.

BTW, I also think I solved the poor MDF painting issue, but that's a story for another day, once I can post pictures. Your joystick guy's post helped me figure it out.

Any ideas on how to shim up the router table to make it perfectly level before I drill the holes in the rails for it?

Also, what did you use for the laminate on the top? Formica, or is there a better choice for durability?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Great news on the painting.

Leveling a router cast iron table was something that I didn't have to deal with but if I had to I would approach it this way ~ I'd make the router box that is supporting the router table first and shim it until it levels the router table with the table saw table and then secure the box to the cabinet. As soon as that is done then I'd drill the holes into the rails. I'm assuming the router table dictates where you're drilling in the rails….. correct? That's going to be tough especially with the router box in the way and really don't know how you're going to drill the holes with any accuracy. I've got a headache just thinking about this. HA!

I found that if you buy shiny Formica (counter top material) it isn't nearly as durable as the slightly textured stuff. Although the textured stuff that I used on my cabinet was stuff I purchased 10 years ago so maybe they don't make it nearly as well today. I used a shiny version on a desk I resurfaced and it scratches very easy. Formica overall is very durable…. way more durable than that phenolic stuff. FYI - i think Formica is a brand so I didn't necessarily use that brand. I bought it at HomeDepot.

By the way I've got a plan for the blade guard dust hose arm. I'm headed to HDepot tomorrow to purchase a 10 foot 1 1/2" pvc pipe. I'm going to design this for the Festool vac to solely suck up the topside dust but you could still integrate your DC with a wye fitting if you wanted to.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm having definite DC issues, so until I sort that out (modifications, new cyclone, etc..) I'm also going to use the Festool for the overhead blade guard.

I look forward to seeing your design. The connections to the strange Festool sized hoses always get interesting. If that becomes an issue, let me know. I'll see what bizarre connectors I've had work around here.

I'll check out Lowes and HD for laminate. Interesting observations.

And yeah, I'm getting a migraine thinking about how to attach the cast iron router table. I had similar thoughts for a game plan.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


What's the issue with the dust collection? Not enough CFM at the saw? Did you reduce the internal dust cabin volume? Where is the dust collecting?

As awesome as that cast iron router table is have you considered just making your own and not dealing with trying to attach it?

OR… Here's an idea that just came to me…. what if you build a frame for the front and back edge of the router table. I'm picturing the front and back frame with a rabbet or a lip where the router table can sit on the frame and be flush with the rest of the table. The frame would be attached and the router table just rest on the frame but is flush or you could mount the table to the frame before installing it on the cabinet.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm getting large amounts of sawdust just hanging at the bottom of the dust chute. Here's a picture of it:

I just emptied the DC barrel yesterday, so I want to make sure it's not an issue with the DC itself (looseconnection, etc.) I am using a smaller DC than you (2HP HF with a Thien collector) and am using 6" flexible hose right now. So I'd imagine I am getting less velocity than you. You're using 4" duct, right? If so, I may be getting more CFM but at a slower velocity.










I haven't decreased the size of the DC cabin yet. I"ll probably do that today as it's an easy task and I want to get it out of the way as a culprit.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I could also epoxy the cast iron table to the wood frame below and/or the rails to attach it.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yeah I wouldn't worry about that dust collection until you've completed the dust cabin and you're probably right about the velocity. What is the size of your inlet? I assume six inches since you're using a 6" port.

My DC has an 8" intake and I used 8" diameter pipe for my main run in the shop and then stepped down to 6" and then to 4" at the end. I really haven't focused my attention to looking down the dust chute. My focus was how clean and efficient am I pulling the dust out of the cabin and I'll tell you the cabin is clear or dust with the exception of the corners where dust swirls. I mentioned earlier that IF I were to take the saw off the cabinet I'd add a piece of laminate so it slopes down towards the port.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Working on the dust cabin. There is about 1/4 - 1/2" of dust piled on the entire bottom of the cabin. So, clearly, not working at present. We'll see if I make a marked improvement in a few hours.

I have a 6" inlet running with 6" flex hose to the DC.

I'm presently building a sloping piece of MDF from the front to the back.

Once I get this built, I'll look again at the DC itself to see if something is amiss.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Time for some before and after pictures. Here's the dust cabin when I took off the front access panel:









Certainly not doing the job. So build I must, so I made the dust cabin much smaller in size, and sloped towards DC outlet.

Here's the insert I added:









BTW, how many times did you forget to take out the back MDF plate before making a miter cut, thus destroying the back plate?

If you haven't the score is 1-0 in my favor. Whoops…..

I then glued and caulked the insert with West System 3 Epoxy with filler to make solid fillets, then caulk. Belt and suspenders.

I then for no apparent reason added an additional vertical piece in front of this, and glued and caulked it in place:










The front was screwed back on the temporary front plate until it's permanent replacement is finished.

Fort Knox has less protection than the front of this dust cabin.

I'll let the glue cure for a few hours, then test by cutting some MDF. I think, based on some quick testing, that my DC unit is letting me down now, not the saw design. I might have to move up my timetable to get the cyclone. But I need to finish this project to make room for it.

Oh, and as soon as my magnets come, it's time to make a new MDF insert for the back of the saw. Maybe I should mass produce them


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Alan is that angled insert going to block the dust chute when you adjust for a miter cut? I sure hope not since it looks as if you sealed it.

Also, I'd be more concerned about the dust that's being left in your cabinet than the dust that is in the chute. I think you are and it looks like you'll soon tackle this issue even if it means selling your DC and upgrading to a more efficient one. Before doing that you might try bypassing your Thien separator to see if that's impacting the velocity.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


BTW - I spent a good couple of hours staring at the back of my cabinet coming up with a solution for the outfeed table so I can also use it for the dust arm support (pvc pipe). I've got some sketches and I plan to cut some support wings tomorrow.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I sealed the angled insert while the saw was set up for a miter cut, so it clears the worst case scenario. It's farther away from the saw than it looks, but angles right up to the DC outlet at the bottom.

The plans always were to sell my HF DC / Thien separator and upgrade to a real cyclone. It was more for dust issues with my combo jointer/planer than for the tablesaw. I'll just have to move up those plans a bit. The cyclone, will actually fit better in my shop (believe it or not) than the two separate footprints of the DC bag/cartridge and the garbage can.

Weather should hold out nicely for the next few days, so I'll be hot and heavy into resanding / priming / and repainting the drawer false fronts. Then on to the router table issues.

I'd love to see those sketches when you're ready.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I think that angled insert is going to help out immensely. Let me know if this helps you out; I think it will.

I've got a couple of ideas that I'm pondering. Long ago I printed out those plans of the fold down outfeed table that you also have plans for. I pulled them out and started hammering out a plan for support arms for the the fixed portion of the outfeed table and then I plan to use the fold down portion of the plans. That's the plan as of today but like everything else I'm always changing things on the fly.  If I settle on something I'll take a snap shot and post what I plan to do.

BTW - Happy New Year!!!


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Happy New Year to you too, Ted.

Weather will be in the 70's here today, so I think fixing and finishing the false fronts will be at the top of my list. Then figuring out how to support the router table.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


70's? wow I'm jealous… we're not getting out of the 30's for highs in the northwest. Brrrr!!!


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Alan I've started building my outfeed table frame for the fixed portion of the outfeed table. I've got the left wing mounted and the right wing is hanging there where it'll be attached to the cabinet. The right wing (center of cabinet) and one other bracket will support the PVC pipe for the overarm dust collection. Here are a few snap shots.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Very interesting. It seems like you came out significantly behind the motor with the fixed piece. I was thinking to just barely come out behind the motor for the fixed portion. I'll need to keep the saw as close to the back as possible when stored. Do you not have that space constraint? On the other hand, this might be an optical illusion looking at another photo. Approximately how far do you have the fixed portion extending behind the motor?

You're also making me need that jigsaw that I wasn't planning on buying till the new Festool jig saw comes out late spring.

I like the side mounting. Sturdy and attractive.

I was also thinking that wider is better for the outfeed table. Less likely for the work to fall sideways out the back. Have you thought of moving the right side support further down the cabinet to make the outfeed table wider?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yes that's an optical illusion you're seeing. It's actually just clearing the motor. It extends about an inch past the motor; 12inches from the back edge of the table.

The right side could be a support/pivot point and you could go wider but I don't plan to. My big worry was that I'd add too much weight to the cabinet.

To cut that 'L' shaped cut I did use a jigsaw for part of the cut but then used a 1/4" forstner bit to make that middle cut. I couldn't make that turn with the jigsaw and I planned to use the plunge router but setup time prevented me from doing so. I made a series of plunges with the drill press and then cleaned it up with a chisle. I just thought of it but I could've used my new Dremel Trio tool.

I'm going to add a hardwood support frame to these wings and angle iron that'll support the laminated top. Hopefully I have enough laminate left that matches the router table. I'll have to buy another piece for the fold down portion of the table but I'll probably put off the fold down table and work on the overarm dust arm.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

How did you secure the 5/8" dowels for the saw blades?

I put the false fronts on the three drawers on the left side, as well as the large vertical drawer. I also made a system like you did to firmly place the false front in front of the dust box without screws. That really was a stroke of genius how you did that, but getting the false front perfectly centered and attached to the back pieces took forever. Did you have a trick for doing that?

I just need to put on the drawer pulls tonight. My magnets came in so I can finish the back pieces for the saw (I rebuilt the one I destroyed by forgetting it was back there and turning the blade for a miter cut.)

Then I'll prime and paint the remaining two false drawer fronts (now that I know how to do it properly) and install them. Then on to figuring out how to attach the cast iron router table to the rails.

Any progress with your outfeed table? I was wondering why you went with the outside support for the table until I remembered that you don't have the brackets from the SawStop outfeed table. It's a pretty nifty solution you came up with. Should be quite solid.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Never mind on the dowel question. Silly question. Took 10 seconds.

What did you hang the blade guard and wrenches with, though? Better question. It almost looks like pegboard hooks.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Installed the false fronts on the dust bin, the three other matching drawers, and the vertical drawer.

The important light bulb that went off was after reading that joystick mirror finish MDF blog. All I had to do was first dry sand the brush painted MDF with 400 grit paper, than spray on multiple coats of clear coat enamel. A final coat of automotive paint sealant, and the finish is certainly acceptable for its location. I didn't wet sand it to go for a more automotive / mirror like finish, as it would not match my shop and I think would very easily scratch.

Here's a picture of where I am at now:









The picture is a little blurry (stupid iPhone) but you get the point. It really does look better without the screw holes in the dust bin cover. But installation of that part truly was a tedious pain for me.

Next on to tackling the installation of the router table. Oh, after gluing magnets on the replacement guards for the back of the saw.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


hey there Alan,
I haven't gotten too far on the outfeed table because we're going through a cold snap. It's supposed to warm up in the next day or two and when I say warm I mean just above freezing. I bought some angle iron so when the fold-down outfeed table is hanging the weight won't sag my support arms. Yes, it would've been easier if I had the brackets that you have but I think what I'm making will work in the end. I'm still pondering the support legs for the fold-down portion of the table but I'll deal with that after I'm done with the overarm dust collection. I hope all of this is worth it. 

Putting on false fronts is a huge pain. I used carpet tape and I used spacers to achieve the proper spacing. I also pre-drilled the holes for the handles on both the false fronts and the drawer front (that the false fronts mount to). The holes in the drawer fronts (not the false front) need a larger hole (forstner bit) for the screw head. Once you mount the false fronts with carpet tape you'll need to pull the drawer out so you can shoot brad nails from the inside. To pull the drawers out I strung a wire into one hole and out the other hole so I can pull the drawer out without pulling the false front off; oh and I also used glue.

BTW - I've never adjusted for a miter cut and destroyed the back plate. I suspect making the replacement was easier than making the first one. 

For the blade guard I just bought some steel hooks that are threaded.

I assume you figured out that you needed to sand the 5/8ths inch dowel a bit so the blades fit on them. If you have more than one blade stored on the dowel be sure to make some spacers so the blade tips don't bang into each other. I used old CD-ROM disks and used a taper bit to drill them out slightly; I used two disks per spacer.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


WOW it looks great Alan. NICE WORK!!!! It's good to hear you've got your paint issue solved. Does the automotive paint sealant make it more durable?

How's your dust collection with the angled insert? I've got to believe that it's much better as there isn't too many places for the dust to go.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I don't bother pre-drilling the holes on the drawers. I just use a cheap jig and center them after completion. I also don't bother using a Forstner bit and recessing the screw heads on the inside. If it was fine furniture, I would, but for shop stuff, I just use #6 pan head machine screws. I also don't shoot brads from the back, but that certainly would work. I just shoot in 2 #6 square head wood screws, 1 on each side of the drawer front from the back. Again, they do show from the inside, but take just seconds to install. Sometimes I glue also, but considering all the painting issues I had here, I wanted to be able to remove the false fronts and redo them if necessary.

Also, normally centering the false front placement with turners tape (ask for it at Woodcraft - it works better than conventional carpet tape) isn't a big deal with some calibrated plastic shims. It was getting the insert for the dust cabin to stick to the back of the false front in the exact right position that I found most challenging.

I like the method of supporting the outfeed table from a diagonal piece attached to the bottom of the cabinet back (as in the Woodworker's Journal article) a nice solution to having the legs. I'm going to try that approach.

Yes, I would assume that the automotive sealant will make it more durable. It certainly works for about 3 months on cars. I used Four Star Universal Paint Protection. It's stuff I use on my daily drivers that is wipe on, and more importantly wipes off easily. There is other stuff that is more durable, but more more of a pain to wipe off.

The CD-ROM hint is a good one. Have to do that.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I too like that method of supporting the folddown table because that'll prevent having to adjust the height on my slightly uneven garage floor.

I'll have to checkout that turners tape. thanks


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


How's the router side of your cabinet coming, Alan?

I should be done with the fixed portion of the outfeed table tomorrow. I need to laminate the fixed portion of the table and then add some ledger boards on the inside of my frame. I reinforced the frame with angle iron so it can hold the fold-down portion of the table. I want to be able to remove the table top so I can get to the back panels that need to be removed for miter cuts. The back of the motor barely clears the bottom of the frame. I might have to chamfer the bottom of the frame slightly just in case the vibration of the motor causes it to knock against the frame.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Haven't had any time to do anything with the router portion. Other stuff came up. I have almost finished the two remaining false fronts so I can get the last two drawers finished.

Your outfeed table is looking good.

I'm having some interesting ideas for a fold-out infeed table too. I think I figured out a way to have one and have it take up virtually no space.

Used the table some more. Dust collection has been horrible. I'm not sure if this is my DC, or whether there is more I need to address.

Clearly I need to get the cyclone. Probably order it some time in the near future. How was your dust collection before you switched to the cyclone?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm very interested in your ideas on the infeed side.

Before I purchased my DC I was using a shop vac and the dust deputy. It was only ok as a lot of dust remained in the cabin. I'd have to vacuum it out frequently as it would build up. Now I'm not seeing this hardly at all. I do see some dust in the corners of the dust cabin but not much.

When you say "horrible", does that mean you're seeing build up on the floor of the dust cabin?

here's my fixed portion of the outfeed table and I've just started on the dust arm.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Wow. You do nice work, Ted. And fast. Are you going to piano hinge that section to the movable section, or do you have another idea.

I had a rough weekend with other problems cropping up, so all I did was install the magnets in the second plate for the back of the saw, take some black caulk to seal some minor gaps with the base wood pieces, and turn over the cast iron router plate and stare at it for a good long while. Also finished the two remaining false fronts. Probably install them tomorrow.

I have substantial sawdust collecting around the saw blade, in the dust chute, and on the metal frame pieces. I can't really see into the bottom to see if there is much dust there. But I do need to be able to clear the dust from around the working parts of the saw itself. The DC is just not generating enough cfm.

Did you use the saw to dado the miter grooves, or your router? Was that the laminate you had left over, or did you make a BORG trip. It looks outstanding. The wood trim looks brilliant visually, and provides ample strength. Just a nice design.

I need to flesh out the idea for the infeed table. But I do think it can be made to work. I'll let you know when I've distilled things more, as your input should make the idea better still.

BTW, I can't believe how important sanding the MDF with 400 and 600 grit paper once for the color coat and once for the clear coat is to improving its finish. It's night and day from before. I tried the spackle for the edges this time. A real pain to avoid putting on too much. It does seal the edges, but making it straight and smooth afterward isn't a piece of cake.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


My latest thoughts for the dust collector, BTW is getting the Oneide 3HP Super Gorilla. It has an 8" inlet. I could try this first reduced to 6" to see if DC is just fine.

Secondarily, I could use an 8×4 x 6 wye and run flex duct to the chute for the 4", while keeping the 6" going out the side. That should unbelievably improve dust collection. I could also run a wye to the blade guard DC with a blast gate and still be under the surface area of 8" duct.

If my math is right, here are the options:

*Dust collector runs - surface area*

Configuration----------------sq in
1×6"--------------------28.3
2×4"--------------------25.1
1×7"--------------------38.5
1×8"--------------------50.3
1×4" + 1×5" + 1×35mm----------33.7
1×4" + 1×6" + 1×35mm----------42.3
1×4" + 1×7" + 1×35mm----------52.5
1×4" + 1×7"----------------51.1
1×4" + 1×6"----------------40.8
1×4" + 1×5"----------------32.2


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Thanks a lot Alan. I'm going to take a different route. If I use a piano hinge the outfeed table will add ~6 inches to the cabinet when I have it stored away. I want to be able to fold it down and not take up anymore room than what you see with the fixed portion of the table. The fixed portion of the table is about an inch past the motor. I'm going to use bolts to hinge the fold down portion of the table so it'll hang below the motor. I didn't dado the table; the table is made up of one long piece of 1/2" ply and then three 1/2" ply pieces mounted on the top to create the gaps. I used my leftover laminate to laminate the 3 pieces you see in the picture. I used solid maple for the frame and reinforced it with angle iron because I was worried that the fold down portion of the table would flex the frame.

Sorry about the rough weekend; i know how that goes. To be honest with you, it's not often that I lift the plate on my saw to look around the blade. I assume you have the new plate that has the quick release handle whereas I do not. I have to take an allen wrench to pop the plate. I'm seriously doubting that my DC is pulling that dust from that high (near the blade). I think that would require sealing the entire front and back and creating a vacuum. I'll take a look as soon as I get my new blade guard. Dang I was going to call woodcraft today to see if that guard is in. You would think that it would only take a day or two for me to get anything Sawstop since it's based in Tualatin which is only a few miles away from the Woodcraft I shop at.

Do you cut large sheets on the Sawstop or do you cut them down with the Festool? I always use Festool to cut down the panels before taking them to the Sawstop. An infeed table would be nice to have especially if it didn't take anymore room.

I know what you're saying about the MDF. Yes, I tried spackle on a scrap piece and hated it. It was way too much work to sand off the excess. I'm glad you conquered the MDF painting.

Ugghhhh back to reality tomorrow….. WORK!!! This work thing sure does get in the way of my hobby. HA!!


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Nice approach to the table. I never get dadoed slots to look perfect. Your approach is easier.

I would think that hanging the movable part of the outfeed table from a piano hinge would only add the depth of the outfeed table to the back. In your case, having a thicker outfeed table would add that extra depth. Interesting. By using the hardware from the SawStop outfeed table that I bought, I can keep a simple 0.75" MDF on back as an outfeed table. That should only add 0.75" to my distance behind the fixed portion.

You could use a piano hinge attached to your maple back and accomplish the same thing. If you made the width slightly wider than the fixed portion, you could also put maple edging which would slide to the side of the fixed table and not increase the total depth more than 0.75" At least I think that would work.

If that makes no sense, I'll try to draw it out.

I need to look again at the plans in Woodworker's Journal to see how much depth it adds behind the fixed portion.

Lately I use the Festool to cut down large sheets. And I often buy them 4×4 at the BORG.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


i like your choice of dust collectors… Oneida makes an excellent DC. As far as runs go, there are a lot of factors when it comes to CFM loss. I'm pretty sure you've read up on all of this. My highest demand tools (planer, jointer) are hooked up to the closet drop and it seems to perform very well… this happens to be the same drop I use on my tablesaw via a flex hose but my main run matches my inlet (8") and then I next down later down the run (8to6 6to 4 and then flex pipe)

You're right a piano hinge would add a table's thickness to the depth when stored…. in my case it would add another 5.5" because I plan to also use it as a sanding table which brings me to what I've been pondering. If I'm going to have projects on the sanding table I'm going to need to use adjustable fold up legs versus the support that the woodworker's journal describes.

That's exactly what I'm going to do (~1.5" wider fold down table), only I'm going to use a couple of nuts and bolts for the swivel point and center the bolt in roughly the middle of the 5.5" square that way when it's folded down the fold down top will basically line up with the back maple frame.

I think the woodworker's journal plans have the fold down portion in line with the back fixed portion of the table.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'll have to see what this looks like when built. Sounds very interesting.

My highest demand tool, in theory, should be my jointer / planer combo. Poorly designed dust collection on it. They say it needs 1000 CFM. I've redesigned the outlet to make it 6", but it still drops chips when planing like you wouldn't believe.

I just finally installed both magnetic back pieces on the dust box. I also turned on the DC and blew compressed air in the innerds of the saw, to dislodge all the dust (which then either got picked up by the DC, or is now sitting at the bottom of the saw (which I highly doubt).

So now I'll have a fresh start and can see where the dust settles when I use the saw. Without making a see-through window I really can't see into the bottom of the dust box. At some point, I'll look inside and see what's happening in there.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


1000CFM??? WOW!!! is that when you're running them both at the same time? 

can you shine a flashlight through the port and look around? or adjust for a miter cut after removing the panels an take a look from above? I think if there's buildup in the cabin that should be your biggest concern. Buildup in the saw is probably something they all suffer from. Which reminds me I need to call those guys at Woodcraft…. my dust blade guard should be in by now.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


No, 1000CFM is just using the planer *or* jointer. It's one of those combo 12" machines. The dust collection on it is really designed very, very poorly. I don't even believe that 1000CFM will prevent the problem. Plus since it's a practical impossibility to get 1000CFM out of the 4" port the machine comes with, I can't imagine dust collection is ever acceptable with it.

Right now I can't shine a flashlight through (plus after shooting in the compressed air while the DC was on, it should be empty.)

I never noticed that build-up in the saw while I had my DC hooked up to the 4" chute that comes with the saw. That's why I'm thinking that a dual setup might be best. It would increase the velocity in the chute much more than how I have it now. And the second connection should easily rid the cabinet of dust. Once I get the cyclone I'll try just the one 6" connection first. If that doesn't work to my liking, I'll try the dual setup.

"After removing the panels.." LOL


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. I'm zeroing in on installing the cast iron router table. I built a smaller support box to sit under the table, and at the same time give me enough room to get a pencil in to make marks on the inside of the rails. After a few tries, I realized that I need to make the support table a little low, then shim it up to get more precise positioning.

That being said, I'll need to make the holes in the rails a little oversized to allow for precise positioning when the router table is installed with bolts.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


yeah you're probably right about the dual setup. I can see where the vacuum would be sufficient enough to pull the dust out from near the blade.

NICE!!! I'm glad you have a solution for that awesome router table of yours. It looks great.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yeah. Now I just need to drill the holes in the rail. I don't know if I should remove the rails and drill them on a drill press (probably better and neater, just a real pain) or horizontally in place with my 36V Bosch drill.

I'm not sure if that steel will be difficult to drill through. I've been told that using oil is essential. I planned on drilling the inside with a small drill bit to get the exact location, then reversing things and drilling from the other side with a larger bit for the bolts. I'm not sure how I can countersink the holes. My countersink sets are for wood. Are there specific countersink bits for metal?

Ted, I'm really looking forward to seeing the completion of your outfeed table. Thus far it really looks sharp. Are you going to make it a sanding table and perforate the movable part and hook up a DC fitting to the side? I'm not sure if that was what you were referring to.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yes they do make a high speed countersink bit for metal and it's not too expensive either. Rockler has one for 15bucks. Steel isn't too bad to drill through… I did it on the angle iron I installed on the fixed portion of the table but the holes I drilled weren't large. I've found that the steel will want to grab the larger bits bits so hold on tight. Maybe that's why they say use oil. I think drilling like you explained with the hand drill is the way to go. I wouldn't dismantle it for the drill press.

One moment I'm thinking a sanding table integrated into my outfeed table would be cool and useful but then I'm thinking take the easy way out reduce the thickness and attach it like that woodworker's journal design and not add additional weight to the cabinet. This would also solve the need to add legs that need to be supported by the garage floor. I'm all over the map on this one but will probably end up doing the sanding table which will also act as a work surface (an additional bonus). The dust port would be mounted underneath the table in the center for optimized suction around the table; and yes perforate the top.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

You don't happen to be at home around your saw are you? I need the dimensions of the countersunk hole to order a countersink drill bit online. I think they use the outside diameter of the countersunk portion, not the hole itself (though I could be wrong.) This is for the hole that comes on the SawStop rails. I'll make mine the same size.

If not, I'll get it later, but I was hoping to get the order in and save a day.

Thanks,

Alan


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


sorry alan i'm at work right now.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


alan the angle iron I drilled through was some angle iron I bought at Home Depot and it was 1.5inch stuff that's 1/8th inch thick. If was pretty easy to drill through.

I imagine you would need a 3/4" highspeed countersink bit.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Thanks anyway, this morning Ted.

I got home late this evening. The answer is 5/8". Now there's trivia.

I ordered the countersink bits. In a few days, I'll be set.

False fronts done on the last two drawers. It's a nice look. Need to pick up one more pull, or I'd post another picture.

I think the sanding table would be novel and a very neat idea. I don't think the weight should be an issue. With my cast iron table mine presently weighs more than yours, and it's not difficult to move around. Of course, space behind it is always an issue. My workshop too.

One question about the sanding table. Don't you want the top of those to be high friction (router mat, etc..) and the outfeed table you want to be low friction. How are you going to reconcile that difference?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


cool; 5/8ths

as for the sanding table I planned on setting whatever I'm sanding on a non-slip cloth so the surrounding holes would provide the suction. I also thought about using the Rockler bench cookies but thought the non-slip material would be better to create greater suction around the project.

I'm more concerned about the weight being set on the extension wing and possibly flipping the cabinet over. I don't want to take chances so I'll probably figure out an easy way to fold down a leg or two to support the extension.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I guess we need to fill the dust port with bricks (or lead, or gold bars, owner's choice-YMMV depending on your alchemy talents) to lower the center of gravity.

I didn't think of the issue of a long lever arm above the center of gravity, but the engineer in me doesn't think this will be an issue.

The more you put in the drawers, the less an issue that is, so stuff away.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Actually, thinking about that issue some more, your router table is attached to your cabinet, isn't it. If so, I can't imagine that you could tip the saw backwards, with it being held secure on the right side. When I start building my outfeed table, I'll be taking off the temporary legs (I have 2×4s there now). I'll see if I can induce any leaning backwards. If not, we'll be good to go. You could do the same test by leaning on the permanent part of your outfeed table. If it doesn't budge, I would think we're good to go.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


You're probably right and it's just me being, 'better safe than sorry'. I'm thinking I'll design the foot like the woodworker's journal and be able to either latch it on the cabin like they do and still be able to support it on the garage floor for a duel purpose solution.  I doubt I'll be setting anything too heavy on that extension anyway.

I probably can't work on the cabinet until this weekend. This work thing is preventing me from doing so.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Getting shelled at work myself. I'll try to get some pictures all of the drawers later today, once I install the last pull, but until the countersink bits arrive, I'm at a stalemate.

BTW, Ted, don't you need to extend the miter slots to the edge of your permanent outfeed table, then on to the movable one? Certainly the crosscut sled I'm using would need a longer slot than you have.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


yes… when I was test fitting my fixed portion of the table I used my sled and it does need to go through the maple piece in the back and then some in the flip up portion of the table. I'll be running a router through that this weekend… I might tacklet he dust collection arm next.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


pictures of your progress would be great. The finish line is near.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I think tomorrow morning will be the day to do the rail drilling, assuming nothing else gets in the way.

Here's a quick tease - All the drawers finished on the front:


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


That looks awesome Alan…... NICE work!!!!


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Started drilling the rails last night. Ran into a truly weird problem. I took off the rear rail to make the hole on my drill press - no problem.

But using a Hitachi titanium countersink bit to make the 5/8" countersink, all the bit does is spin without cutting anything - despite serious pressure when I try that.

No clue why the bit isn't cutting - it's a brand new bit.

Just realized that the bit I quickly purchased at Lowes is for wood only. My bad.

The bits designed for steel should arrive later today - of course I'll be at work then, but tomorrow I guess.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Guess what got installed tonight????


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


That's great Alan. Congrats. So there are two bolts on each side and pictured are the two holes you drilled?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yes. Four bolts total. I'll still use the router box underneath to support the cast iron top (will be a little tricky, but structurally sound).

Going to try to build the missing piece of extension table today and install the hardware from the old SawStop extension table (after cutting it in half-no clue why, but SawStop makes extension tables for the 36" and 52" rails with the brackets spaced differently.)

Have to make a Lowes or HD run today for black laminate for the top.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

So I cut the MDF piece for the extension table between the cast iron saw top and the cast iron router table. I was planning on using the SawStop brackets.

One thing that has come up is that the SawStop extension table is only a little less than 11/16 thick, as opposed to 3/4" plywood. This makes the MDF (even without the laminate) stand proud of the other tables, and the brackets are at the limit of adjustment. I think I'll have to enlarge the grooves in the brackets to allow it to fit.

Did you run into that?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Alan, 
I didn't run into that issue, in fact if I remember correctly I had a little more play if I needed it.

Rather than modify the metal brackets (which will be difficult) why don't you rabbit the 3/4" mdf?

BTW - I started the dust collector arm but I STILL haven't received my new blade guard. Arghhhh!! darn Woodcraft. Here's what I have so far.

Right now I plan on using rare earth magnets to hold down that support arm on the fence. It supports the pvc nicely and it also slides when making fence adjustments.










I can slide it down for longer cuts but I think it'll be rare for cuts that large; at least for me.










When you need it out of the way you can rotate it down. I'll need to make a little support piece so the pvc rest straight when it's out of the way. Right now it looks horrible hanging like that.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Oops… I meant RABBET.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Wow!!!!! Near disaster tonight. I realized that the vertical piece of plywood I had on the back of the router portion of the cabinet was what was blocking the MDF from fitting as an extension table. So I removed the plywood. And it was true, that was why you didn't have the issue with the MDF fitting on your table. I then drilled two holes in the extension table brackets with a cordless drill. Piece of cake, and now I could securely attach the MDF in the correct location.

Here's the vertical piece I was referring to. It's the left piece of unfinished plywood:









Now here's where things got dangerous and potentially disastrous. I then removed the plywood box I had supporting the cast iron router table. Ted, remember your concern about the saw tipping over. Don't ignore the issue. It's real (at least to the right side of the saw. It may not have a long enough lever arm to the back). The saw started tipping over, and I had no help, didn't have my cell phone on me, and didn't have a way to prevent the saw from tipping.

I reached all the weighty objects I could find, placing them on the left side of the saw to counterbalance the weight of the cast iron router table. The best thing I could find was this 60# metal vise:









Propping up the rails with 2×4's and shims, I was able to keep the saw safe enough to build a permanent solution on the jig saw.

I built a 3/4" plywood piece to attach to the right side of the large vertical drawer and support the brackets I just built to support the MDF. This will provide support in the middle of the rails and prevent them tipping over to the right.










Here's the support piece installed:


















Once the router box is built, that also will prevent the saw from tipping over.

So important lesson, which you are building the right side of the cabinet, you need to always have support on the right side.

Here's a picture with the MDF table extension installed. I haven't placed the laminate on it yet. That took a trip to Lowes, and two HD until I found some in black. Then a trip to Woodcraft for laminate blade for my Festool track saw.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Interesting prototype with the dust collection arm. Didn't think of attaching it to the fence. I've been trying to think what operation that would get in the way of, but I haven't come up with one yet. So probably just fine.

Isn't the outfeed table going to get in the way when the movable portion is hanging off the back?

It does look great, and having the hose hang down instead of worrying about it getting in the way of the wood exiting the saw looks wonderful.

I must say, you certainly come up with creative solutions.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


YIKES!!! I do know what you're talking about. I remember when I was working on the router side of the table and didn't have anything supporting the right side. My dad came over to help me and I told him not to lean on the right side of the table because it'll lift the saw. Apparently he forgot because he leaned on it slightly and the saw started to lift. I then did what you did and added a temporary support. I do know it doesn't take much to tip that saw with that long lever.

On the brighter side, your cabinet is looking GREAT. That router table looks awesome. Was it by chance that it was the same width as the saw? Very impressive.

Overarm dust collector arm ~ when it's hanging down it'll clear the flip-down portion of the outfeed table when it too is hanging down. The outfeed portion of the table will only hang down about ~19" from the bottom of the table (~25.5" from the top of the table) and will require that I lift the overarm dust collector pvc before I setup the outfeed table. I think I need to buy some couplers so I can remove this thing if I need to because I definitely need to glue the curved portions of the arm along with the long run that hangs over the saw. I just might use a wye fitting to run this thing off the dust collector; it'll be easier and cleaner but I did hook up my Festool Vac to the pipe and it was sucking pretty well.

Speaking of dust collector I pulled off the tablesaw insert to install my new zero clearance insert because my new blade guard doesn't come with the blade guard that you have; DARN. I remember you mentioning your disappointment with the dust collecting in the chute and around the blade. I haven't taken out the insert in a very long time and I was very surprised to see no dust in the chute AND better yet no dust near the blade. I remember when I use to use the shop vac as a dust collector on my saw and when I'd pull out the insert the dust was all around the blade especially around that yellow brake adjustment bolt; I saw no dust around that bolt. BUT, just to make sure, I blew out the entire area around the saw to get a fresh start and see what collects around the blade and chute.

Do you have plans for your router box? That's definitely the most painful box to make.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I chose the router table top for two reasons. 1 - It was the same size as the saw rail depth. 2 - It was the only one that fit my Woodpecker's PRL-V2 lift. Afterwards I learned that there are two sizes of PRL-V2 inserts, and if I had chosen the other one, I could have purchased another cast iron router table top.

I was planning on looking at your plans today for the router box. I'm surprised/depressed that you thought that was the hardest part. As I'm not sure I'm going to be as elaborate as you were with the dual dust collection, mine might be easier.

My next step will be to laminate the MDF for the extension table. Shouldn't take too long, then on to the router table.

PVC unions are a pain, although they do work. I thought you'd have to lift the dust collection arm before the outfeed table. What if you had attachment clips to the back side of the outfeed table for the dust collection arm? It could stow attached to the bottom of the outfeed table and then be swung up into position. That would make it 3-4" higher when being used, but I'm not sure that's a big deal.

If you do plan to use the Festool for the blade guard, I would attach a 35mm hose to the inlet of your DC arm and stow the hose in the middle open compartment of the cabinet. When you need to use it, just unfurl the hose and attach it to the Festool.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


By the bottom of the outfeed table, I mean the bottom when it's hanging down. It's really the back vertical piece that it would clip to.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


That router table is so perfect for the cabinet.

The router box was only challenging because you have to worry about the height. Once you nail that it's like any of your other boxes. Yeah, the dual dust collection did add to the difficulty level.

I can't believe you can walk into your Home Depot and buy laminate off the shelf. At my HD I had to order the stuff and it wasn't cheap.

That's a good idea you have on the dust collection arm but I think because they both have different pivot points the dust arm wouldn't be able to swing up along with the table. The only intersection between the two radii would be when the table is in the down position.

I like the Festool hose idea. I plan to find something similar to the Festool hose size. I'm sure the Festool hoses are pretty spendy.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Forgot about the two pivot points. You could make two pivot points, but I don't see the point of that. Your design is simpler and more solid. You could also have it permanently stick up in the air like the SawStop one and not bother tucking it away at all. Not as good looking, but simpler.

Yes, the hoses are stupid expensive. Not as crazy as other Festool stuff, but the price always gets your attention. I bought one and attached it to my SCMS and have it dropped below the carts the saw lives on. When I need to use it, I just grab the free end of the hose, connect, and I'm going. Not the cheapest solution, but the easiest and fastest.

Only one HD near here had the laminate. Since I tried Lowes first (who had nothing), then another HD who sent me to yet another one, it made for a busy driving day.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I finally received a call last night from Woodcraft that my blade guard is in. WOW!!! it was taking so long that I wrote an email to SawStop yesterday morning and what do you know, the guard showed up the same day. SawStop is based less than 10 miles away from the Woodcraft store I ordered the guard from. I'll now be able to complete the overarm dust collector and then complete the fold down portion of the outfeed table.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Great. I'd love to see it. Still need to design/build one, and your design is looking like a winner.

I've been working hot and heavy on the router box. The inner box is finished structurally (not painted yet), but the outer box and the connections to the inner box haven't been designed / built yet. Have some interesting ideas there too. We'll see what works out.

Next step will be laminating the extension table (need to get it done before I ruin it), and then attach it to the brackets.

I'm not happy with the support piece I built the other day. It's fine structurally, but I want to rework the dimensions slightly for symmetry issues. I'll need to have the router box in place for support before I remove and remake it. A bit of a pain, but it will look better redone.

Hopefully pictures later today.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Outstanding. It'll be great to see your design on the router box.

The lamination process is quick and easy. It also gave me a chance to use my new Rigid trim router that I got for Christmas. I would much rather laminate than paint, that's for sure.

Are you sticking with the topside port for dust collection?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ooh!!!! Trim router…...Drool…...

Yeah, I'm terrible at painting. Lamination is much better.

For now I'm sticking to a topside port for dust collection. I'm still thinking about the INCRA LS Positioner Super System, though not sure I can make it work. I'm leaving the top of the rear router box open or unglued, so I can access it later if I change my mind. Your solution is more elegant, but I may want to get a higher tech fence.

You'll like the new blade guard. I'm having some issues on how to store it in the vertical drawer. I'd love to see how you address that issue.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I actually have two trim routers, the Bosch Colt and now the Rigid. I think I like the Rigid better than the Bosch :-o HD had a killer deal where you buy the Rigid router and you get a 1/4 sheet sander for free. SWEET DEAL for two outstanding tools (99bucks for both).

I intend to re-design the router fence because I hate my first attempt. I'm going to build something lighter and attach it to the tablesaw fence. I'll laminate it to make it look better and more finished as opposed to what I have today. I'll do this after the over arm dust collector and outfeed table. Too many projects trumped this effort.

I'm at work right now and ran over to woodcraft at lunch time and picked up the guard. Tonight I'll install the guard and then all I'll need is a short hose to attach. I saw a 35mm bosch hose on amazon for 36bucks(?). That's better than Festool pricing but still a bit steep considering I only need a short piece.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Alan,
I installed the blade guard and hooked up the Festool vac and made some test runs. I just draped the hose over my dust arm for now to see how well it works. As I was hooking it up I was wondering if this is the reason why you're seeing dust in the saw cabin. Maybe having a vacuum pull from the top and the DC from the bottom creates a dead zone where dust collects. Just a thought. My test runs worked well. I'm going to make some more cuts later this week and then inspect inside the cabin to see if I'm now collecting dust up above where before I wasn't. I'm definitely going to go with a wye fitting at the dust collector port and use the dust collector to pull the dust from the top. Hooking up the Festool vac is kind of a pain and turning it on and off is definitely not to my liking. I guess I could use my Craftsman switch that turns the vac on when I turn the saw on in the meantime.

You're probably working hard on that router box and extension table. I'm eager to see your progress.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


The problem is that the attachments are an awkward size. Check out some options and see what you come up with.

Let me know how you plan to store it in the drawer, too. Haven't figured that out yet.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


yeah, it's awkward alright. It definitely won't be going in the tall drawer. Maybe a slide out shelf that is mounted to the side of the tall cabinet under the right wing. I'll have to take some measurements and make a box to see how it looks. Fortunately I don't have to remove the blade guard when I store the saw away.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. A bit of a setback. I was working on some dadoes, and was enlarging my zero clearance dado insert, and my SawStop activated. Sadly, this was using my Freud Super Dado set, so the most expensive blade I have. I'm hoping it can be repaired (the damage seems quite minor, actually), but it clearly puts me at a veritable standstill.

I'm sending the cartridge back to SawStop. They don't know why it activated either. Pretty expensive mishap.

Bummer.

I was hoping to post some neat pictures later. I'm off from work next week, so I could probably finish things if I had a dado blade. I'll go to Woodcraft tomorrow and pick up a replacement cartridge.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


ahhh crud. That's horrible news. Let me know how this all plays out. Maybe when SawStop is done analyzing the brake they'll not only replace the brake but buy you a new dado set.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Not on a roll today. Was stuck late at work so I missed being able to go in and get my dado blade repaired, plus, uncharacteristically my Woodcraft store was out of dado cartridges.

Really need to get this stuff back to use my week off effectively.

Ted, have you made any progress with the overarm DC setup or with the outfeed table?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Alan,
Work this week has been a bear. I did go to Rockler today and bought the wye port for the saw so I can hook up the dust arm to the DC. I also bought a swivel 2.5" coupler that'll allow me to swing down the arm without disconnecting the arm from the dust port. All I need now is a 36mm (1-7/16") short hose to attach the arm to the blade guard. I also need to make some maple arms to hold the pvc pipe when it's in the down position.

As for the outfeed table I just got done cutting and drilling the maple sides to the fold down portion of the table and installed the 1/2" bolt to test it. I'll have the fold down table done this weekend and then get going on the leg support. I think I'm abandoning the sanding table for now.

Are you stuck until you get your brake? Maybe you can install the standard brake and disable the safety feature for your dado cuts. I've disabled the safety feature many times especially when I wasn't sure if the lumber was moist or not OR for fear of running into a brad nail on a scrap piece of lumber. If I had to guess the SawStop probably doesn't run without a brake installed.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm stuck without both a brake and dado blade. Tomorrow I'll bring in the dado blade for service. Hopefully will get it back Mon or Tues. I should get the brake on Monday also. I'm make a couple of odds and ends in between, but effectively at a partial standstill.

I did have a long conversation with a tech at Oneida-Air today. He thinks that the cyclone will work quite will without hooking up the dust chute. He also thinks it might very well fix the chip issue I have with my 12" Laguna J/P. Going to measure things and probably order that tomorrow. At least 3 weeks to get it, and then have to arrange metal ducting. I like the Nordfab. Not sure if I'll go with that, or order through Oneida.

I'm jealous that you have a Rockler nearby. Strictly mail order for me. Plus Woodcraft and SawStop nearby. Nice neighborhood.

I'm having trouble envisioning how your outfeed table and DC system will look. Anxiously awaiting photos when finished. You definitely need to add pictures of this stuff to your project posting when finished.

Oh, BTW, do the double doors enclosing your router add to the soundproofing, or is that just decorative? I was originally designing that in, but I'm having second thoughts today. My table will sit with that in a corner by the side of the garage door. Getting at things to the right of the table would be tougher with larger doors. Norm Abrams only had a single polycarbonate windowed door in his classic router table. I've thought of doing that.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Well I hope you're up and running soon.

That's great news that you're ordering an Oneida DC. I too think that'll solve your issues. I'm very curious to see if the over arm collector causes dust to collect near my blade. I'm hoping not.

Sad to say but both Woodcraft and Rockler know me by name. I am lucky that I have them pretty close by. Although Woodcraft is kind of unreliable. Rockler always treats me right.

I'll post pictures this weekend. One issue I have is I ran out of matching laminate. I might have to order some if I intend to cover the flip down portion of the table with the same stuff I have on the fixed portion of the table. I also have to track down some hose. Amazon had a Bosch hose (35mm) for 30+ dollars. I might have to go with that if I don't find any in my area.

The double doors are mainly for looks as it covered up the much smaller router box. The sides of the router portion of the cabinet are really just false side panels; once again looks. I probably could've gotten away with just the two doors and have both of them cover the much smaller router box but the box would've grown. Whenever I build something I usually design it on the fly and then change it a few times before I settle on something. I confess, I mostly make it up as I go.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I didn't quite get my project done as I had to order more matching laminate for the outfeed table. I did make a little progress and finished piping the overarm dust collector. I installed a wye port on the cabinet and connected the pvc arm to the port via a piece of shop vac hose. I also found some 1.5" pool hose to connect the pvc to the blade guard. I had to buy a bunch fittings in order to get this all connected ~ a lot of trial and error. I need to redo the top pvc support fence piece to prevent the pvc pipe from rising when I make height adjustments to the blade.

I tested out both the Festool connection and the wye port and the Festool definitely pulls more; the question is, does the DC with wye port pull enough. I'll find out later.

I also got the fold-down table frame done. The laminate will come in this week and I'll add the table and then design the fold down legs.

Here are a couple of pics.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Wow. All looks great. That outfeed table looks outstanding so far.

Yeah, it's ridiculous what you have to go through for incompatible fittings for DC, must less trying to modify non-Festool stuff to Festools.

I'm real curious if I'll need to use the Festool for the overhead blade guard, or whether the cyclone will work just fine. Your setup will give me an indication. I bet that swimming pool hose saved you quite a few bucks.

How are you supporting the outfeed table? Temporary supports for now?

I've been trying to do as much as possible this weekend without the dado cartridge. The dado blade was unexpectedly finished on Saturday, so I got that. I was hoping to put the dado set on with a conventional blade cartridge, and just use the saw like a conventional table saw. Somehow the SawStop knows that, and doesn't let you proceed. Bypass mode won't work either. So no dados this weekend.

The dado cartridge is supposed to reach me today. If so, serious woodworking is ahead.

I did build some parts of the router table this weekend. Even painted one.

Unfortunately, it looks like the 1/2" plywood I got at Lowe's is bowed. Of course I noticed this after it was cut to size. I may try to glue and brad nail it, but it may just revert to its bowed form. May have to go to HD to replace it. Ridiculous.
As soon as I make some serious progress, I'll post a bunch of pictures in a day or two.

Yet another cold snap down here has prevented me from laminating my extension table. Don't want to blow up the workshop/house. It should warm up later today so I can get to work on that too.

BTW, did you laminate both sides of the MDF, or laminate one and shellac seal the other, or how did you treat that.

Also, do you have a spindle sander? Nice curved pieces.

When you get your outfeed table and DC arm finished, you should definitely add those photos to your project. They will make it all the more impressive.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


The outfeed table is supported with a couple of half inch bolts. They are the hinge for the outfeed table. I rounded off the top of the outfeed table near the hinge so it wouldn't hit anything while lifting it into position. I know all flat surfaces have the potential for placing stuff on them and I'm definitely guilty of that.

I'll know this week whether the DC is sufficient for collecting dust from the top of the table. I do know something that my DC is powerful enough but what isn't sufficient is my cheap solution to piping the drops down to various stations. I went cheap and used HVAC material. I have blast gates at the different stations but I can't close all but one station other wise the 8" diameter (long run from left wall to right wall) hvac pipe starts to collapse. Eventually I'll install more expensive DC pipe like the stuff you mentioned in an earlier post. It's really expensive but nice stuff. I do know that the Festool is more than enough to take care of the dust and If all else fails that will be the route I take.

For my router table I only laminated the one side and didn't worry about the other side. The faces of mdf that I buy are sealed already (edges aren't) so I have no worries about that over time.

I do have an AWESOME spindle sander and love it. I bought the JET oscillating spindle sander JBOS-5.

That's a good idea. I'll update the photos when I'm done. The matching laminate should be in tomorrow or wednesday and it looks like I'll need to buy another sheet of plywood to make the outfeed table. I've been trying to get rid of a lot of scrap material in the shop. It seems to build and build no matter what I do.

That's great that you were able to work on some stuff despite your saw being down. I have no idea how the SStop knows what blade is installed. I'm very surprised you can't fool it.

Enjoy your week off from work. It sounds like you might be able to hammer the router portion of the cabinet out. Are you going to post this as a project when you're done? I hope you do. People are going to love your version of the cabinet…. even the SawStop haters


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Oh and yes that pool hose did save me some bucks. Both HD and Lowes carry it but HD's version is way too stiff. The stuff was stashed high on the shelf because they don't sell a lot of it. In fact, the employee I talked to didn't even know they had the stuff. Lowes sells it for ~$3/foot and I bought two feet. Sweet Deal but I also had to purchase a bunch of fittings and I sacrificed a tapered shop vac pipe to make the bottom fit.

To account for the dust arm to fold down, for storing, I purchased a swivvle coupler from Rockler. This allows the arm to fold down out of the way without having to disconnect the bottom hose going to the wye port.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Real potential in the near future.

The SawStop Dado cartridge came this afternoon. I see dadoing in my near future.

While waiting (and since I had a narrow temperature window) I used contact cement and laminated the black formica onto the extension table. It looks nice. Should be much more durable than the phenolic resin that it comes with. I can't wait to make the outfeed table out of it. It looks so much better than the original.

Now my entire attention will go to completing the router table. Once done, the DC connections will likely have to wait until my cyclone arrives and I choose which type of metal ducting I am going with. I don't want the fittings on the router box to be incompatible with the DC pipe.

Here's a picture of the outfeed table completed:


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


oh wow that looks super sharp. Nice work Alan. That laminate is way more durable than that phenolic stuff and it looks a lot better too.

I think my laminate comes in tomorrow but I probably won't get to finishing the outfeed table until later this week. Darn work is getting in the way again.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Lots of progress over the past few days. Ted, you couldn't be more right-the router box is the hardest part of the job. Small area, but very complicated and precise.

I need to *slightly* shim the router dust box to lift up the far right end of the table. There is a measurable drop in the right side of the table due to the large weight and the large lever arm at that distance. This leads to a slight change in level of the top between the extension table and the router top. Wouldn't be a big deal, except the fence has to glide easily over it.

All this could be solved with a few small shims under the cast iron router top. How can I best accomplish this shimming? The only measured shims I have are plastic, and I'm not sure if they would take the prolonged weight without squishing. Also, I don't want the shims to be noticeable. I haven't measured how much shimming I'll need yet. My guess is that it's about 1/8" at most. Perhaps a little more or less.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


hey there Alan,
I remember this fight like it was the other day. Is there any way that you could add some heavy duty levelers? You'll have to trim the box to increase the gap and once you have the levelers installed and adjusted to the right height you can lock them in with a nut. That's what I did and it was painful because I could barely make the adjustments to the back levelers. I then created spacers between the router box and the cabinet wall so the router box won't move (backwards, forward, or side to side).


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


These look interesting. 









Rockler Heavy Duty Concealed Levelers

Not perfectly sure how they work. It looks like you drill a pretty deep hole, and they adjust from the side with an Allen wrench? If so, this would take up no side space. Unfortunately, any gap at the top or bottom will cause dust to come out of the router box, which I'm not thrilled about (although, maybe not with enough DC CFM).

Actually, as much as the Rocker ones look nice hidden, I may just go to my local Woodcraft and pick up these:









They won't be invisible, and could collect a little dust around them, but I don't have a local Rockler, and don't want to wait a week for mail order.

Which levelers did you use, Ted?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I think the woodcraft ones would serve you better. Once you have the feet adjusted to the proper height, you can then lock that height with a nut on the underside of the bracket and one on top. The question is, do these cause you to raise the bottom of your router box decreasing the top to bottom distance? Or will you just drill a hole in the bottom of the box so the threaded foot can access the bracket that is mounted inside the box? This is important because you own a router lift and you'll want to make sure you can drop the lift (w/router installed) all the way down without bottoming out.

As for dust collection ~ since you'll be pulling a lot of air out of the box you'll need some way to get air into the box. I drilled a hole in the side of my router box for the cord but didn't bother adding a gasket because this hole helps get air into the box. Since air is coming in from above and the cord hole dust can't collect or shoot out of these areas.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Major progress on the router box. Pictures to come tomorrow. It took two trips to Woodcraft, and the leveler above as well as a second type for the front of the box, and now all is level. Paint drying on parts of it tonight.

I do have a gap below the box now, similar to what you see above. I'll need to slip underneath and glue some wood strips below the router box to keep sawdust from drifting into the other boxes.

Back to priming and painting some MDF tonight. Boy I hate that.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm anxious to see the pictures of your progress.

You sound like me when it comes to painting.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ran into an interesting issue this morning. I tried using the fence from my Kreg router table (the small table) and the spacing is far less than the cast iron fence, and the hold downs have too large hardware on them. Please, now router table fences aren't standardized either. Can't anyone build stuff compatible with other company's stuff.

Now I was planning to replace the fence, probably with an Incra. But now I have to worry if that will fit.

I also have to return an IVAC automated vacuum switch. The SawStop keeps flipping its circuit breaker with a dado blade. Pity, as it was extremely convenient for the DC to be turned on whenever I turned on the SawStop. I'll still be looking into an automated option for the future. May build my own. Home automation is a hobby, so it's not that big a deal. Just need time (always an issue.)

Did your laminate come in? I'm anxious to see the finished outfeed table. Especially how you are going to support it.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


That stinks about the router fence. It sounds like it's as frustrating as trying to find vacuum fittings that are compatible.

Will the Oneida DC that you're thinking of buying come with a remote control? Do you have a 220 line in your shop? I had to wire a 220 line to run my DC.

I just picked up the laminate tonight and will likely finish the outfeed table this weekend. I have a different idea for the table support that doesn't require sliding the foot down and wedging it against a mounted ledge. On paper it looks like it'll work but I'll mock it up with scrap wood before actually building it.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I have 220 already wired. I am ordering a remote control, though I find that I occasionally forget to turn it on before sawing. The nice thing about the IVAC system was that it is automatic (though the Oneida tech support guy thinks you should let the cyclone run for 5-6 minutes each time you use it, so he wasn't fond of those.)

It should be interesting to see your outfeed table design.

As always, painting is slowing the construction down. Losing a day here waiting for the paint to cure to sand the MDF then apply last coats of clear coat. Presently, 2/3 of the router table area is finished. Hopefully if Woodcraft has one in stock, I'll come home tomorrow with an Incra LS Super System. Should make my router happy. Probably me too. My checking acct - not so much.

One tricky construction part to do, and I'll be done with the basic (can this be called basic) cabinet. Then the outfeed table project will have to start.

I promise pictures will follow once things are finished or close to finished. They'll just look much more impressive at that stage.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


It sounds like you're set for your future dust collector and hopefully the router table fence.

Yes, this is a very expensive hobby but I love it.

I'm anxious to see your nearly completed cabinet.

If I can successfully design this outfeed hinged support leg this weekend I'll be very happy. If not I'll have to fall back on the typical telescoping design that the Woodworker's Journal showed. I don't mind that design but I want to make it a bit simpler to setup.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yes, it's a crazy expensive hobby.

I'm set for a cyclone, but haven't designed the ducting yet. I'm awaiting the suggested plans from Oneida. I'll see where I go from there. Since I've moved my table saw to the other side of the shop, my runs are dramatically shorter. That should help a lot.

I ordered the router table fence. It's not a simple decision with the right sided router table. If it was left sided I could have replaced the SawStop Biesenmeyer fence with the Incra Table Saw fence and also used it on the left with a router fence. But since we went with the right sided router, that doesn't really work. I'll have to drill a few holes in my beautiful new formica table extension (that's going to hurt), and place some T-nuts on the bottom so that I can remove the Incra Fence base when I need to cut large boards on the SawStop. I went with the travel 17" fence, so that I don't have to remove the base too often. I feared that with the 25" travel fence, I would have to remove it a lot.










You can see that the fence base (on the left of the photo) attaches with four or six bolts to the extension table. That's far easier than me trying to modify the cast iron router table to the correct width, and then use the 1/4-20 bolts that the table expects. As it turns out, I think that's the biggest drawback of the cast iron router table (plus the difficulty attaching the table to the rails.)

I'll have to add some 4" flex hose from the fence DC and wye it to the router table 4" DC. Should provide very good router dust collection.

More paint drying today. Hopefully tonight or tomorrow I can install some more parts.

It's hard to believe that this project has been going on for more than 100 days now. I'm certainly setting no speed records.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Stalled again while making the last two drawers, so thought I'd post a few pictures. I added the router box and put a mitered frame door with a polycarbonate window on it. I then added a vertical drawer, with dowels placed to hold a number of router specific wrenches, inserts, etc.




























On the right side will be two drawers, for the router bits.

I'm not happy with the drawer knob. May try to find smaller versions of my present pulls, but I don't know if I can find them.

I've also never made drawers this small, and I'm not sure I can successfully do it with my usual dovetails and router jig. I'm thinking of trying for box joints, which I've never done before, but I think will work better with the smaller drawers. I dadoed the sides of the case and drawers so that the drawer width can be maximized. They have so little width that I thought the extra 1/2" I could gain by the dados would help, especially with the router bit storage drawers.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


WOW!!! I love that vertical drawer you created for the router tools. Seeing this makes me want to redo my router side of the table.  VERY IMPRESSIVE. I also like the polycarbonate door so you can see the router. It looks great. Will the router bit drawers pull out in the same direction as the router tool drawer?

That Incra router fence looks impressive too. I would think you could swap the port from the left side to the right side but that's just a guess. Maybe you've looked at that already and determined you can't do that.

Outstanding work Alan.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yes, I'm going to have two drawers for bits, with 2" of spacing below so that the cord can come through to an external switch for the router. They are going to pull out in the same direction. They will be tall enough for all my bits (which necessitates about a 4" usable space inside. My present drawer that I'm housing my bits doesn't have that, so I have many bits sitting in their cases on their sides.) I'll have to make some new MDF inserts for the bits at slightly less than 2" squares. Small differences in space really matter in drawers that narrow. That's why I dadoed them to gain whatever little space back I could that the slides took away (0.5")

The Incra fence DC port is switchable from side to side, or it really would look terrible with a hose hanging off the front of the cabinet. With the cabinet butted up against my garage door on the right side, having any drawers that open to the right of the table presents some problems. That's why I didn't build the big lower drawers to open on the right side like you did.

I'll have to have T-nuts under the extension table, as this fence will get in the way of very wide cuts on the table saw (like sheet goods, although I usually use the Festool track saw for those). That way I can remove the base of the router fence to make those cuts.

What it probably means is that I'll have to move out the cabinet every time I want to use the router. A bit of an inconvenience, but my space limitations are what they are. I would have to move it out to get at the router switch anyway.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


More progress, and more setbacks this weekend. I built the final two drawers for the router table:









I made box joints for these, instead of my usual half-blind dovetails. No tremendous reason for that, except that I thought that my Porter Cable jig would be difficult to use for these small drawers. Also, I find I get a lot of chipout with plywood with the PC jig and my router. It works just fine with maple, but I didn't have any maple around the house today. In reality, I think that the box joints were far more time consuming to make.

The false fronts are being primed, painted, sanded, clear-coated, and polished. They'll be done in a few days, as I'm now stuck waiting for the paint to cure. Have a mentioned recently that I hate painting?

Then I installed the external router switch, which can be seen in the picture below:

The next step was to install the Incra Wonder Fence. It's an impressive bit of hardware. To install it to the extension table, I thought the most convenient approach would be to install 6 captive 10-24 T-nuts to the underside of the extension table, and drill 5/16" holes through the extension table. I did get some chip-out on the drill holes on the formica top, unfortunately. I'm not sure how to avoid that. I'd love to know for the future, if anyone knows.

When I was taking the fence out of its box, I noticed that the fence was bent during shipping.










So, progress stopped as I repacked the fence in its original box, and went about arranging its return. It will be a few days before the replacement arrives.

Here's some pictures with the fence installed, albeit briefly:


















BTW, with the base of the Wonder Fence installed, rip capacity on the table saw is reduced to 21". But it can be removed in about 2 minutes, yielding full capacity.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Oh, and I forgot one last thing. I finally installed the Wixey Digital Readout Height gauge on the router lift. It's been collecting dust on my workshop floor for ages. I'm surprised the battery still worked:


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


That Incra fence looks amazing. That's too bad it was damaged. I've seen the Incra fence before but never read up on it to see exactly what it does. What does this amazing looking fence allow you to do?

It looks like you're almost done with the cabinet. What else is left for the main cabinet once you install the false fronts? Your cabinet looks great.

I had spotty work sessions this weekend. I was able to complete the fold down portion of the outfeed table but I didn't get the support leg done. I started building the support but I'm thinking I need to build a scaled down model to see if it's going to work. I can't believe how cheaply made the laminate is these days. I ordered the same laminate that I purchased years ago and the stuff is much thinner than it was years ago. I'm glad I didn't assume the thickness would be the same.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Nice….. I need one of those Wixey Digital Readouts for my router.

What size hole did you drill for your Incra fence? I think in order to prevent chipout when drilling laminate you need to use a forstner bit. I standard drill bit is guaranteed to shred the laminate, especially the cheap stuff that is built today.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Alan,
Where'd you buy the polycarbonate window for your router door?


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


It can do joinery (box joints, dovetails, etc..), edge jointing, plus is just amazingly accurate for dados, etc… Lots more, but I'm too beat to think of what. Just a solid, precise fence.

Once the false fronts are done, and I choose dust collection piping / fittings for the cabinet, I am done with the basic (LOL, basic) cabinet. Next will be outfeed table, and overhead dust collection. Basically, the stuff you're working on right now. Actually, one other task. I need to paint and place some 3/4" plywood pieces under the router box (which is now suspended on the leveling legs) to prevent sawdust from going everywhere under the drawer boxes. This will be better with the dust collection working, but still needs to be addressed. I'm amazed how much I had to raise the router box to level everything out. The right side of the rails sag far more than you appreciate if not supported fully.

I was kind of honked that the holes I drilled in the Formica chipped it. It's totally invisible under the mounting plate for the Incra Fence, but I'll want to fill it in somehow for when the mounting plate is removed.

I think it was a 5/16" hole in the Formica. I didn't have a Forstner bit that size. Which I had known, I would have ordered one.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


The polycarbonate sheet was from either Lowes or HD. I think Lowes. Their size selection was between too small, and too large, as I recall. This was from a scrap I had from another project.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. The cyclone is on its way. Ducting is not, though. I have to finalize my choice and get some ordered. The restocking charges for extra ducting is pretty stiff, so I'm going to order in portions, one for each piece of equipment. I'll pick the table saw first, so hopefully I'll soon see how well the dust collection works in the base with a real dust collector.

Unfortunately, I won't have room for both systems to be hooked up simultaneously, so I'll have to take my two stage, Thien separator, HF dust collector apart (any takers out there?), before installing the Oneida cyclone. This will totally stop any progress on the sawstop outfeed table for a while (but since I have a functioning, albeit ugly space consuming outfeed table, it's not a catastrophe.)

Sprayed my last coat of clearcoat on the final two cabinet false fronts tonight. A few days to cure, and by then hopefully the new handles will arrive, and I'll be able to finish the basic cabinet.

Oh, yeah. I guess I need to install the replacement router fence too.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Which brands ducting are you considering? I definitely need to redo my 8" main run so I have the ability to close off all but one blast gate. This is a necessity so I can use the DC for the dust arm. I used the dust arm this past weekend and ended up hooking up the Festool Vac to the arm.

I finally have the outfeed support leg designed/sketched out on paper and I'll complete it over the weekend. Unfortunately, work is getting in the way of me getting into the shop during the week.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I really like the installation method for the Nordfab. If I need to change configurations, it can be done in seconds. I think it's also stupid expensive, but…

I'm skeptical that the dust guard will work well with a cyclone. The high SP it generates seems more more conducive to the Festool. I don't enjoy dragging the hose and connecting and disconnecting the Festool, but I think it will likely work better.

The Oneida rep suggested I use 7" ducting to the saw (split with the blade guard into 6" and 2.5"), and after a blast gate continuing on to a reducer to 4" for the router box. I tried to talk him into 8", but he thought the velocity would be much better with 7" ducting.

Work has been crushing me here too.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I do too. Rockler has a Nordfab display and I'm pretty sure you put in a custom order with them. I might go with that brand and buy sections at a time.

The problem with the dust arm is that stupid wye connector; it's more of a 'T' connector which is the issue. If it were a true wye connector it would be far better. I was worried about this out of the gate but since I have the Festool vac, I knew I had something to fall back on if necessary. If I mod the wye port I think it'll work much better and be sufficient. There's no doubt it works well with the Festool vac so not all is lost if the modified port doesn't work.

What inlet size is on the Oneida? I should talk to the JDS people to see if their customer service is as helpful as Oneida's service.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Take a picture of the area of the "T" for me. Maybe I'll think of something.

Just finished cleaning up the garage and making room for the pallet with the cyclone. I'm sooooo tempted to install the last two false fronts (they look great), but they really should cure for another day. So I had to push the saw back into the corner (it's gotten much heavier, but the casters still allow for movement).










With the storm coming through the East, and no ducting ordered yet, it may be some time until I actually get it.

The Oneida comes with an 8" inlet. His initial design starts with an 8", but then wyes down to a 7" main for the table saw (6"), blade guard (2.5") and router run (4"). I will put a blast gate between the table saw and router segments.

If that doesn't provide enough CFM, I can always exchange it for 8" runs, but the 25% restocking fee has my attention.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


here you go alan. not a picture because I'm at work right now…. here's a link to the wye port that I'm using.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22104&filter=port

here's my tweak that i'm going to try. I'm going to mount a right angle pvc pipe fitting (1" pipe) that wraps into that 'T'. This will no doubt draw more air from the dust arm but the question is, will it drastically reduce the air being drawn out from the cabin.

Your cabinet looks AWESOME!!! do you have issues rolling this beast to where you want it? Once I get the wheels going in the direction I want, my cabinet rolls pretty easy.

Where'd you buy that slat wall? Is that the Gladiator stuff? I need to buy some of that.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Well, theoretically the wye is much better. On a practical basis, I'm not sure how much it matters in this case.

I'll have to see what you're suggesting. I'm still not getting it in my head. Shoot one my way when you get home and get a chance.

The slat wall came from my garage guy. It provides a nice, uniform look. I really haven't hung much from it yet (just that sander, and a radio on the other side of the workshop. Per some suggestions at Sawmill Creek, I may use some of that space to hang some jigs. I can never find a place for them.

The beast was a little harder to wheel than last time I tried. I actually think it's an issue of getting the middle casters aligned. When they are, it wheels very easily. When they aren't - not so much.

Just before I moved it, I took my Festool vac and vacuumed out the dust cabin from the top. Still huge amounts of sawdust in it. I'm really keeping my fingers crossed that getting a serious cyclone will make that a thing of the past. If not, I'll have to run dual ducts to the dust cabin - on for the original blade guard, and another to the cabin. I really don't want to take that route, so I'm hoping the Oneida will cure all ills.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I think it's huge because the only air being pulled from that 'T' (dust arm) is air being drawn out by the velocity of air passing by the 'T' point. The 'Y' version would be much better so I'm essentially going to pull that hole out in line with the dust collector connection. The DC will essentially have to sources of air to pull from although the hole for the cabinet will be reduced. I do know why Sawstop sells a 'T' connector with this dust arm because the 'Y' version would be pointed to the back of the saw and be difficult to connect a hose to it. It's difficult to explain and might be a moot point if it doesn't improve with the mod. 

I'll stop by HD and pick up a 1" right angle pvc fitting and mount it inside somehow and give it a go. If it improves the suction than I'll send you a pic.

I'll also send you a pic of my fold down table that's completed but the support piece is not. I can't wait to build the support leg that I have in mind. I think it'll be easier and quicker to setup. I was also thinking about adding a piston to lower the outfeed table slowly but that's some crazy talk. The only reason I thought about doing that is because when the table is hanging at 90 degrees the inside table top butts up against that nubby on the back of the motor ~ perfect but if you drop the table that's likely to damage the table. I can hear it now ~ WHAM!!!! 

I think all your dust issues will be solved with the Oneida. I'm basing that on the results I'm seeing with my JDS cyclone DC.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Wham!!! LOL.

Might as well go with pneumatic actuators to make it really high-tech. Hook it up to the remote control.

The Oneida will be delivered tomorrow. I have no ducting, and at least a week out to order it, and I haven't done that yet. I'll put together the cyclone once I talk some friends into helping, then have to do nothing while waiting for the ducting. Oh well. Oneida beat their delivery estimate by about 10 days.

One of the issues I'm seeing with the outfeed table, with my saw against the wall, is that I'll have to get behind the saw to raise the table. Not a deal-breaker, but annoying.

Maybe I'll design the infeed table while I'm waiting on the ducting. Won't be able to build it, but I can flesh out the design.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I think getting behind the saw to set up the outfeed table is much easier than setting up the 12" roller stand but I do know what you mean.

Will you be using the Oneida with your flex hose until you get your ducting?

Here's the port with a pvc pipe placed inside. I'm not using this large one but something smaller. If it doesn't help then it'll be Festool vac all the way.










Also here's my flip down table that still needs my somewhat elaborate support leg.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Love the "elaborate" support leg. Kitchen carpentry at its best.

I'm still confused as to what the port with PVC inside is being used for.

I only have 6" flex tubing, not 7" or 8", and don't have the appropriate reducers, so I think I'm just out of service until the ducting comes in.

The table looks great. You could always just build some fold down legs on the underside of the trailing edge.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


All it does (right angle pvc) is channel the air through the arm of the 'T' port. I forgot to stop by HD on my way home last night so I just placed a scrap piece of pvc inside and took a snap shot. What I'm going to buy is a smaller right angle pvc fitting and mount it inside the 'T' port. I don't know if it'll help enough to make this a solution but I do believe it'll improve the air flow to the dust arm.

I was back and forth on the leg support and decided that I didn't ever want to fine tune levelers to the garage floor. If the support I have in mind isn't sufficient enough I'll be forced to go that route. It's all about quick and easy but it's also about not creating too heavy of a lever sticking out 30 inches. I did try to lift the saw from the front with the table hanging out but was unable to. I'll definitely test it again when I'm done with it.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Now that I have that 3/4" plywood support on the router side of the cart that sits just below the extension table metal frame, it wouldn't be possible for the saw to tip with the weight of an outfeed table, so at least I don't have that concern. I would think the router box with the levelers would also prevent the movement. But definitely better safe than sorry with this heavy/large a setup. Before those pieces were installed - anything was possible.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


How's the Oneida Dust Collector Alan?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Pictures to follow later today. I can't get close enough for good pictures considering all the boxes in my garage. I should take a picture of all of them.

Came packed pretty well on a pallet. A million individual boxes. I'll be cutting up cardboard boxes for the next 5 years. Assembly instructions OK at best, certainly not up to SawStop's standards. We did make a few missteps along the way. One friend and I were able to assemble the cyclone fully in about 7 hours.

Thank God I had an overhead hoist. I don't know how we would have done this without one.

Not having ducting, I haven't been able to test it yet.

I've been going back and forth with a really nice Oneida tech regarding the ducting design. Should, I hope, get the ducting order started within the next day or so.

Later today I should install the false fronts on the last two drawers. Drawer pulls should also be in later today, or tomorrow at the latest.

Incra fence is installed (one tech support call there too - another instruction manual issue). It's a pretty impressive fence system. Should be for the cost. Can't wait to try out some interesting joinery.

Hey, Ted. I just noticed that you first posted your project one year ago today.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK, here's a picture of the Oneida 5HP Super Gorilla. The beast is up and works, but isn't ducted to anything. Still haven't ordered the duct, as we're going back and forth over specifications. Hopefully very soon.










This has enabled me to move my drill press back to its original location, where it takes up much less usable space. The jointer will go in front of the cyclone, landlocking it. I'll have to wheel out the jointer/planar every time I need to empty its bin, but that's a small inconvenience I'll have to live with.

Drawer pulls didn't come today, so still haven't completed installing the false drawer fronts.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


WOW, that thing is a beast and should do the job and then some. Congrats on your new DC.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


All I can say is thankfully my best friend came over and we worked like dogs. Without the hoist, I'm not sure we would have ever been able to lift it up onto the stand.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I got lucky myself when I put my JDS DC together. At the time I was having my house painted and before the guys started painting for the day 3 of the painters helped me lift the motor up as I put the bolts in.

I'm anxious to hear if this is the answer to your dust issues.

I'm going to check out some ducting this weekend at Rockler. I need to fix the main run so I can close some blast gates.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


One of the problems I'm trying to figure out now is what Nordfab fittings to use to attach the router box inside 4" hole to the 4" outside hole, and then to Nordfab duct or flexible hose.

If you have any ideas, let me know.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Can you use flex hose to make this connection? When you say, "inside 4"" are you talking about the inside diameter?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


For inside hole, I mean the hole in the router box behind the router. For outside hole, I mean the hole on the back of the cabinet. They are two 4" diameter holes in 3/4" plywood.

Basically, I've got two 4" holes in the box, and need to have them connect to each other, and then have the outside one connect to the DC.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Just adding some pictures:


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Well, the drawer pulls finally came at about 6:00 tonight. That took forever.

Installed the drawer pulls. Pictures to come tomorrow.

OK, the basic cabinet is done. DC connections next, outfeed table after that.

Had a epiphany regarding how to do the infeed table. We'll see if I can get it to work.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Alan,
I see you got your new Incra Router fence installed. It looks amazing.

Are you going to go with the flex hose for the inside router box to the outside connection?

I finally finished my outfeed table. Talk about tedious. Designing the support leg, the way I did, was a mental challenge and required a few sketches just to give me a hint that it might work. Anyway, all I have to do to setup my outfeed table is lift it and it auto locks in place; this is exactly what I set out to achieve. To fold it down I just lift the table slightly and apply a little force to the top portion of the support leg (just above the piano hinge) so the support leg folds UP. It's hard to explain so maybe a few pictures will help. These pictures show from setup to the storage position.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

Looks incredible. I'm having a tough time getting my head around how it works or is built. Any chance you can post some measured drawings to explain it further?

It looks far simpler to use than the design I was planning out of the Feb '09 Woodworker's Journal.

I think I'll need two angle flanges connected to flexible pipe, but not sure how to do the outside one. Maybe an Nordfab angle flange on the outside back of the cabinet, and a two simple ones on the inside with 4" flex pipe between them.

I'll draw something to describe the issues and possible solution when I get a chance tomorrow.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I can get you measurements later today but I just posted this as a project so check it out and maybe this will clear it up a little better. Again measurements are generally on the fly because of the difficulty of getting the table set up in the level position. Hopefully this helps.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/43954


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Good. I was going to suggest that it looks way too good to not be posted as a project.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Now some pictures from the router side of the table. Finally got that part done. I'll redo the router bit inserts to make them mesh better with the exact dimensions of the new router bit drawers. I've also moved the dust collection elbow to the correct position at the back of the cabinet.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Alan that looks amazing….. AWESOME!! I think your project is ready for prime time  You've got to show LJs your cabinet. Your project makes me want to upgrade my router to the Incra. Love it.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'll take it prime time once the outfeed table is done. Besides, I'm enjoying seeing you get your props, Ted. You certainly deserve all the compliments.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Thanks Alan but I think your cabinet with that incredible router portion of the table will shine over mine. WOW!!

Let me know which route you take on the outfeed table and then I can relay you measurements as you go. If I didn't design on the fly, I'd have all of these measurements written down. Even if I had the measurements I think it's important to custom cut at the time of the cut, especially for the fixed table frame since our measurements could be different.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm thinking through how to mount the outfeed table. The SawStop bracket has great simplicity on its side, but I'm concerned that the more distal part of the table will sag. This probably won't be an issue with the outfeed table up, as the support below should alleviate that. Hopefully something like your maple side supports will get the table rigid enough to avoid that.

Also, weren't you going to make slots on the moveable part of the outfeed table to help guide larger jigs? I think I'll absolutely have to with my large crosscut sled.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I understand your concerns. The maple arms are with angle iron are definitely rigid enough but obviously it takes a bit of work to get them aligned and installed. I'm happy to get you measurements and when it comes to the support leg I think my learnings will lead you to a slightly different two piece leg ratio (shorten the piece attached to the table and lengthen the cabinet side leg. This will prevent the leg from butting up against the cabinet edge and allow it to hang 90 degrees vs my 93 degrees. Not huge but I like 90 better 

I used my sled on my saw and the rails came up short of the back edge of the slots so I didn't have to continue the slots. Since I butt the piece I'm cutting to the back fence of the sled and not the trailing fence, I don't have to feed the sled through as far. If I find that wider pieces need a longer slot I'll route that slot at that time. It's easy enough, I'm just lazy.


----------



## mrwilby (Feb 8, 2011)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Great thread, really enjoyed reading the progress. In fact, I signed up just to post this. Hope you can keep posting as you progress because I want to build something similar so this is invaluable knowledge sharing - thank you muchly!


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Mrwilby:

Come on in. The water's fine.

Glad you're enjoying reading this. Feel free to post any suggestions, questions, etc..

Alan


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Here you go Alan. I hope this helps give you a good idea of what I did.

Stored away, the pvc pipe sits right below the outfeed table support hinge on the cabinet. Most of the PVC is glued together but there are points where I didn't glue so I could remove the pipe just in case it gets in the way. 




































I think I'm going to add one more piece at the router end so when I flip up the PVC pipe it is supported; I don't want it accidentally swinging down when I disconnect the hose at the blade guard. Also, I found out that I don't need something to support the pipe in the middle.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Very neat design. Nice that it didn't need the support block on the fence. That was the part that I thought was a little bit hinky. The end under the outfeed table is what you're going to hook up to either the Festool vac or your cyclone, correct?

How are you going to route the DC hose under the outfeed table. A straight shot will run into the motor, won't it. Flex hose would work. Also flex hose with a wye would take care of the T issue with the router table intake. Not as clean looking, but should work.

I think I have a better solution still. Build a small wood box next to the pipe holders in picture 3. Have the black duct barely go into it. Have it seal with a gasket, but be able to swifvel. Out the other side, have the inlet hose. This can be fixed.

Parallel and below that, have another duct originate from the box and elbow into the router box. Basically a wooden box manifold/wye that allows the upper duct to pivot, and acts as a wye between the two outlets. You could build a simple hardboard manifold to isolate the router box connection when you're not using it to direct all the airflow to the blade guard.

Here's a quick and dirty drawing that shows what I am describing.










Here's a picture of someone elses manifold that shows the same concept:









You can obviously do without the grounding wires and can align the intake / output properly.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


yes the end under the outfeed table connects to the Festool vac or the port just right of the motor (DC). What I didn't take a picture of was the wye port ('T') with the vacuum hose that connects to the end under the outfeed table. I have a swivel connector between the pvc pipe and the vacuum hose so I can swivel down out of the way. Tomorrow I'll reconnect the wye fitting and vac hose to show you that connection. maybe the solution is to split it before the saw and not at the saw.

That's a great idea you are showing. I must be honest though, so far this dust arm has been more of a pain than it's worth. I really want the DC to be the solution but I won't know until I fix my ducting so I can close off blast gates to dedicate the collector to one tool. I'm constantly taking the blade guard on and off for certain cuts and it's getting to be a pain. To add to the pain, I'm currently having to turn on the Festool Vac to achieve adequate suction. It works great with the Festool vac but I must be getting lazy and spoiled with age .

BTW - eventually I'll make my router port look more custom. My original port was a shopvac port (2.5"). I installed that 4" port after buying a DC; my temporary fix.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I know what you mean regarding taking the blade guard on and off. Hooking up the Festool to it on and off. It is a pain. It works great when connected, but you spend far more time making the connections than making the cut.

Add to the complexity on mine having an analogous situation with the router fence and box. I clearly need something permanent as I have potentially 4 separate DC connections on the back of the cabinet.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I like the idea you mentioned above and it seems fit for your situation even if you didn't have the dust arm.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Thought of a small modification. I could build the manifold box right over the DC opening into the router box. The hole would directly empty into the box. That would make connection to the Nordfab easier too. No second external elbow needed. I'd have to move the hanger/pivot point for the DC duct a little, but should be able to support it just fine.

Multiple companies make swivel DC connections in 4" size, I believe. The certainly do in 2.5" size.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ahhh yes, I like that mod. That would be much cleaner as well.

I have a swivel connector on my dust hose leading to the wye connector. Here's a picture of what I didn't have connected when I took pictures last night. The swivel connector allows me to swing down the arm without having to disconnect the hose. The issue now is the wye connector hangs out way too far for the outfeed table to fold down completely. IF the DC is sufficient to drive the dust arm I'll then have to run two separate hoses with one going to the TS dust cabin and one to the arm. Not ideal but it'll be cleaner in the end; otherwise live with what I've got and go with the Festool Vac. If the Festool Vac ends up being the solution then I'll add a switch so I can turn on and off the vac from the front of the saw.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Where exactly is that swivel connector usually plugged into? I'm having trouble visualizing how that gets in the way of the outfeed table.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


The swivel connector connects to the end of the pvc pipe just below the fixed outfeed table and the wye port connects to my port on the back of my cabinet. It's the wye port that gets in the way of the folded down table. The table wants to be 90-ish degrees (hanging down) but this wye conn won't let it because it extends too far beyond the cabinet and I believe runs into the folding leg.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Oh…. I think I avoided that part as my DC connection is on the left side of the saw, not the back. I think I'll have lots of other issues with that stuff, though. There will still need to be connections to the router 4" conenctor, the router 2.5" fence connector, and the blade guard 2.5" (or 35mm) connector. Still a ton of hoses / ducts back there. I just wish I had duct and connectors to play with (sigh…..)


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yeah… be prepared to buy lots of different sizes just to get them to fit. I think I used 3 various types of connectors at one end of the dust arm, 2-3 at the other end, 2 at the blade guard etc…. and you know the hose is a pool hose because that's all I could find. geeesh!!


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Well, while wasting time, I did one thing I forgot to do. I cut small pieces to seal off the bottom of the router box. The gap appeared when I raised the router box with the adjustable lifting legs.

I've been staring a lot at the back of the cabinet trying to figure out the approach to all the DC ducts. I realized that I can't use the routing suggested by Oneida, as it won't physically fit. I'm closing in on a better approach. I'll probably draw a diagram and post it.

I think that I may have lucked out. Putting the largest DC outlet (the 6" one to the table saw dust cabin) on the left side of the saw cabinet makes routing the ducts much easier. I don't think I'll have as much difficulty avoiding hitting the outfeed table as Ted is having, though I am going to have a ton of ducting behind the cabinet.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Alan, will your design change if you end up having to rely on the Festool vac to provide adequate suction for the dust arm?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Here's the possible configuration of ducts. I don't know if the DC will be able to sufficiently pull through 2.5" duct. The 5" will be sufficient for both the router table and fence. A 7" duct will supply the 6" table saw dust cabin and the 2.5" blade guard.









As I haven't built the outfeed table, there's a very good chance I'm missing something that will bump into something else.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I think if it is necessary to use the Festool (and I think there's a real possibility there), what I would do would be to turn the duct towards the front of the cabinet along that square gap in the middle, and leave an outlet to hook up the Festool at the front, to make things easier. Basically, turn towards the front where the word "with" is in the red run above.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hey there Alan..
In your drawing it looks like the pvc pipe is going to be suspended by the 4"duct coming out of the router box. I know when I swivel the pvc pipe down in the storage position it lies against the cabinet just below the outfeed table hinge.

I'm about to remove the dust arm all together if it comes down to having to use the Festool Vac as the dust collector for the blade guard. It has everything to do with lack of efficiency from the DC due to that 'T' port. 'T' ports are just wrong, period. I believe I could make it work by splitting with a wye port, before connecting to the saw and making two connections to the saw ~ that sounds like a lot of work to me.

Your idea of feeding through the opening to the front of the cabinet is good but you'll then have to account for the swivel action when you go to store the pvc pipe away; just keep that in mind. With the pvc pipe near that opening maybe I'll buy a dedicated shop vac for the blade guard dust collection and have it sit in that gap under the right cast iron wing. hmmm??? Rigid makes a small shop vac that'll be more than sufficient.

HA!! I'm all over the map on this one.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Small shop vac does sound interesting. Have to be pretty small, though.

Once I finally get the ducting designed / delivered I'll see how this will work. Certainly complicated.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


this weekend I'm going to go purchase one of these …

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000899/9525/4-x-4-x-212-Y-Fitting.aspx

I don't plan on mounting it to the cabinet; just hook it up to the flex hose and string a 4" connection to the saw and the 2.5 to the dust arm. If this doesn't work than i'll purchase this to sit under the right wing….

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202077241/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Do you have 16.75" under the right wing? I only have 12.75" available there. You are talking about next to the miter angle adjustment crank, right? Or are you referring to putting it on the ground next to the router portion of the table?

That Woodcraft wye, as you know, is much better than the T functionally. Should help considerably.

Dust collectors really aren't built to handle 2.5" hose. That being said, I think that all the blade guard has to do is to keep the air moving, and the speed of the blade sends sawdust down the beginning of the hose. The limited airflow that 2.5" allows does the rest. It will be really interesting to see. The Festool, being a shop vac, can generate more static pressure at that diameter tubing and will always work better. But there is something nice about not having to drag over the vac and hook it up each time you want to use the blade guard.

I gave up last night waiting for Oneida to get back to me regarding the duct design, and ordered just the parts for the router box connections from another Nordfab dealer. Amazing. For what that stuff costs, you'd think they'd be falling over themselves trying to fill my order. I've had the cyclone for 8 days now, and still no ducts ordered. It's presently a heavy space-occupying lesion in my garage. It's very frustrating.

Since I know what I need to connect to the router, router fence, table saw dust cabin, and blade guard, I'm just going to sit down tonight, make a list, and place the order with someone else. If I have to return a few things (with shipping and 25% restocking fee), so be it. The down time is just unacceptable.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I guess I don't. I'm not home to measure it but our measurements are pretty much the same.

Yes the wye will no doubt be better than the useless T fitting. I've also hoisted my Festool vac up off the floor so I could get away with no dust arm and just drop down the hose from above. There are many options to still be able to benefit from the dust blade guard because it definitely works.

Hopefully you'll be up and running soon. I know the feeling.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Just ordered the ducting from another source. Just couldn't take the wait anymore. I forgot that you lifted up your Festool. What an awesome idea. The boom arm I have gets in the way as much as it helps. And it makes the Festool much, much larger. Not sure it was a great idea to buy.

Take a picture of the hoisted up Festool some time when it's convenient. I've got to see what that looks like.

Dropping down the hose would clearly work also.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Here are a couple of pics of my hoisted Festool Vac. I purchased a bike hoist from Harbor Freight ($8) and built a box to hold the vac. I replaced the bike hoist rope because I didn't trust it over the long run. The total weight of the vac and box is around 33lbs and the hoist supports up to 50.

I'm now on the hunt for a retractable cable that allows me to pull the hose down when I need to use it. Currently I lower it to use it.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Try getting one of those retractable extension cords that hangs from the ceiling. I've got one in my shop. Cable-tie it to the Festool ducting, When you pull down the cord, the duct comes with it, and vice-versa. You'll probably have to let enough cord to hang down to reach it, but otherwise should work fine. Plug the other end of the cord into the Festool for tool control.

Only problem I see is that sometimes you want the vac on auto, sometimes on manual.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


i have one hanging in my garage near the vac but wanted a dedicated retractable cord to mount to the box so if I needed to lower the vac I'd be lowering everything. If this is the solution to the dust arm I'll probably go purchase an inexpensive one.

Yes I'll need to lower the vac for the TS55 but it'll still be suspended to act similar to the boom arm.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Alan, 
How are things going? Did you get your ducting?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ducting still hasn't arrived. Hopefully later in the week. I see that you have metal ducting also. I didn't realize that before. Which type do you have?

I still have one basic issue to sort out with the router box. I have a 4" diameter hole in the back of the router box, another 4" hole in the intermediate wall in the landlocked box behind the router, then the 4" hole to the outside world on the back of the cabinet. I think I'm going to have to enlarge the middle hole to allow hose to go through it, though that will be a pain to enlarge. Not sure if I'll sand it with a dremel, or try cutting with a Fein multitool.

Here's a picture from above:










I think I'll then just use a metal adapter on the router box side, connected by 4" flex hose to another adapter on the cabinet back side, which interfaces with the Nordfab ducting. A bit of a pain, but hopefully it will work.

Of course, this would have been far easier if I had just made that middle hole bigger (or just stopped the wood piece short of the back wall.)

BTW, Ted, I gave your outfeed table some props on Sawmill Creek. Someone there was asking for how to build an outfeed table for a contractor's saw. I linked your project, so you may get a rash of new comments / questions.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

Someplace, a gazillion posts ago, you mentioned a hint regarding using something from CDs (or several CDs) stacked to keep the teeth of the saw blades from hitting each other when stored. What was that hint again? I'm doing ditzel little things here waiting for duct.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I tried drilling CDs. They sort of work, but I think wood blocks with 3/4" holes in them would work better.

I added some pegs to hold the riving knives, and old saw blade guard in the vertical shelf. Pictures tomorrow. Also labeled some router blocks and put bits in them. Man I'm looking for things to do.

I don't have enough storage for all my bits, so I think I'll still have to use part of one of the large drawers beneath the router to store them. I'll have to fashion some sort of insert that I can remove to hold them. Don't want to give up a whole drawer for this.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hello Alan,
The wall with the intermediate hole doesn't really matter since it's just a pass through, correct?

Thanks for the praise on the Sawmill Creek site. How is that website?

Btw - I went cheap on my ducting and used hvac pipe. The problem is the 8" stuff is prety flimsy and I'm going to have to redo the run that crosses over to the other wall. The static pressure in that run is too much and the 8" pipe threatens to collapse if I close off all but one gate. This summer I might redo it with the stuff you bought. Spendy I know but it's crazy to spend 1400+ on a DC and then go cheap on the ducting. I will try one more cheap attempt by replacing the 8" run across the ceiling with 6" stuff as the guage seems to be thicker ~ plus I already wye'd from 8 to 6 and then went back to an 8 for that run. HD didn't carry a 8×8x8 wye fitting.

Yes I used a step bit on the CDs to create the slightly >5/8ths" hole. The reason I used the CDs is they took far less room than the food lids I was using before. I use 2 between each blade of my dado set. My regular blades I stick with the plastic food lids because I have plenty of room on the upper dowel.

Have you made any decisions on your outfeed table?

FYI - i've been using the Festool vac with the dust arm and it's working great as long as I'm not making skim cuts. There is no stopping dust/shavings when you're making slight trims on board edges.

Currently I'm working on a craft desk for the wife so I've been cutting a lot of ply and I'm loving the luxury of having an outfeed table.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yes, since I'm going to directly connect inside and outside, the intermediate hole just functions as a pass through. That wasn't its original intent.

I've heard that the HVAC stuff can collapse. Gotta love the price, but you are likely sacrificing a fair bit of your cyclone's performance keeping that gate open. Does keep the shop air cleaner, though. 

The Festool does work great for the guard. Maybe much better than the DC. Hopefully, I'll soon be able to do an A/B comparison. If so, I'll post pictures. Need duct first.

I'm going to try your type of outfeed table first. Simpler, more elegant, probably much better looking too. What's not to like?

I'm keeping the dado blades in their dedicated box, so I just need that part for table saw blades. Too much potential contact with the CDs that I tried. I think wood scraps with holes drilled when I get a chance. Only have a few blades so it doesn't matter for now.

After I finish the outfeed table, I still want to run the ideas for a removable infeed table / support by you. I have a basic concept I think could work, and you're constantly amazing me with your ingenuity in building this table so you could probably improve my idea. Everybody wins.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yes, the HVAC stuff can collapse. My friend used the stuff in his shop and has had no issues, but apparently his DC isn't as efficient as mine. I'm going to check out the 6" stuff to see if the guage is a bit thicker and if so give that a go to see if I have any other issues. If I do I'll give up on being cheap and buy the heavy duty stuff like you did.

I'd love to see what your ideas are for an infeed table. Thanks for the kind words and I'm not sure I can help but I'll give it a go. I know when I cut some fairly large panels this past weekend, I used the roller stand (use to be my outfeed catch) and the issue of the roller getting in the way when the piece was half way through is something I would need to address in an infeed design. I have an idea that I'm just now thinking of and will attempt to mock something up this weekend. It just might tie into my outside outfeed maple table frame.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'll e-mail you some plans for a table that had a mechanism that I thought could be modified to our cabinets to make a fold down infeed support. I sort of have it figured out in my head. Just need to make it work on paper and in wood/metal.

Working on ordering blast gates also. All this stuff is stupid expensive, but should last a very, very long time.

I'm rapidly running out of busy work to do without using the table saw. I really don't want to cut MDF for more router bit storage without dust collection working.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


excellent I can't wait to see it. Maybe I'll mock something up and we can share ideas.

yeah, stupid expensive is right. If it was specifically built for wood working than they automatically tag on a hefty price.

MDF is nasty stuff without dust collection. I wear a mask as a backup with that stuff. And what about the dust turning the garage floor into an ice rink. WOW!! dangerous stuff inside and out.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I just got back a quote for the controller and blast gates using an Ecogate automatic system. Ouch!!!! And I thought the Nordfab and Oneida were off the charts expensive.

I'll have to decide how to handle this. I'm constantly forgetting to open up blast gates, or keeping the wrong ones open, so I really wanted to automate things. I could build something, but that project would take quite a while. Plus automatically turning on and off the DC would be a nice plus. I've been known to forget that too.

So, don't know which way I'll go with this one, but I will need blast gates pretty soon.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Here's a picture of a few assorted blades, wrenches, blade guard, etc with their new home on dowels in the vertical drawer.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


ahhh it looks GREAT Alan. You do nice work. Have you figured out where you're going to store the blade guard with the dust control port when you're not using it? Long and awkward doesn't make for a simple storage solution.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I have it hanging on the slat wall with a couple of hooks.

I ordered conventional blast gates for now. I might modify them later to make them automatic, but I just couldn't swallow the cost of the Ecogate or Nordfab automatic ones. I mean over $500 for a single blast gate. That's crazy.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


WOW!!! 500 bucks. I wouldn't buy it either. I wonder if the JDS gates would work on your system. I was going to buy the Automatic Blast Gate System kit but I thought I'd redo my ducting before I purchase it. The starter kit comes with 3 gates and they turn on and off the DC when you open or close the gates. The starter kit only runs 85.50 (220v) at Rockler.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


The Ecogate system both opens and closes the appropriate gates when the machine turns on/off , and also turns on the DC. Systems that just turn on the DC are much cheaper. I think a full system for my shop could run $4K. Very, very, very hard to justify anything approaching that.

As far as I could tell, the JDS system only comes for 4" blast gates. Most of mine will be 6" or 7". It does do 220V which is nice.

Some of the Nordfab gates are almost $1000 per gate. Crazy.

Electrical systems have a fire risk with their solenoids. Pneumatic systems are much safer, but then you have the huge increase in complexity with pneumatic valves, linkages, moving parts, compressors, pistons, etc.

There are some guys that have done amazing work with them, for a fraction of the cost of the commercial units, but it takes serious work and research.

That being said, I'm interested in home automation and have an entire house run by computers, so I could tackle the task if I wanted to. Just would take up way more of my time than I really want to.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

Lot's of ideas dancing through my head. How tall are the maple side pieces on your outfeed table?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


That's impressive. I didn't think a system of that sort existed. I guess it's similar to a central air vac system. I'm definitely not going to have such a luxurious system but it would be nice. Like you said it's a lot of time and that's time I should use for making my garage look a lot nicer. Your garage floor looks great.

The maple side frame is 5.5 inches tall but I forgot I mounted some angle iron to the inside of the side wall to increase the stability of the fixed frame.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm thinking of making the non-fixed portion of the outfeed table a frame with either the tops able to be lifted up on hinges (toy box kind of hiinge and hold open mechanism), or a drawer that comes out of the side. The inside area would be used to store my Incra HD 100 miter gauge, as well as perhaps an insert to store the base of the Incra router table when removed, and a few more things. This will necessitate making the height of the outfeed table piece greater (obviously this can't go over the saw table height, so it will extend more towards the ground. The stored gauges will need to securely held down so they didn't move when the table is lowered into its storage position.

This will present more weight to the diagonal support piece. I hope that can handle it.

Yes, I'm sure a fully automatic dust gate system is awesome. Have you seen the Youtube video of Alan Schaffer's home-made one? It's on American Woodworker and Youtube. His shop won one of the magazine's awards as the best shop in America. It's pretty outstanding.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Here's that link to the automatic dust gates of Alan Schaffer's. Lumberjocks was tempermental this morning and wouldn't let me add it:

Automatic Dust Gate System


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. The UPS fairy came to visit today:




























The pictures don't do justice to the size of these ducts. Amazing stuff.

Unfortunately, I realized after they arrived, that I forgot to order an 8" machine adapter to adapt it to the dust collector itself. So I still can't use anything. But at least I'm putting some stuff together.

The 4" hose adapters also came for the router box, so at least I should be able to get that done by the weekend and ready for the DC duct.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Alan,
That'll be really cool when you pull off the storage in the outfeed table; not an easy task but will be very useful.

I've seen that incredible video of his dust system. It's awesome and something I could only dream of having. Can you imagine the time he put into that dust system? WOW!!

Impressive ducting and I must say I'm very jealous. I should just bite the bullet and order some of this high quality ducting. I'm not sure if this is an option for you but my JDS DC came with a wye (8×4x4) so I cut the 4×4 end off and used the 8" portion (8"ring) to attach my DC to the 8" flex hose to connect to the 8" ducting.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Mine doesn't come with a wye, so I'm still out of commission until at least I get that part.

I only ordered one 8" part, the elbow, so I have nothing I can even Jerry-rig. Oh well.

Yes, his system and workshop, are truly amazing. He's very talented, both with woodworking and electronics, mechanical engineering, and probably lots of other things. When he posts something, I read it. Always learn something. And he was nice enough yesterday to e-mail me a collection of posts/information regarding his automatic blast gate system.

I just finished connecting the 4" flex hose between the router box and the elbow at the back of the cabinet. Had to enlarge the 4" hole with a drill and sanding adapter. Not a lot of fun. Took forever just to be able to enlarge the hole to 4.5" and barely get the flex hose through. I paid for that oversight.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I've had days like that. In fact, today didn't go well for me either. I was creating some dowel joints and like an idiot I drilled the holed starting from the wrong end so I had to plug them so I can re-drill them starting on the correct end. That's what happens when one can only spend approximately an hour a day in the shop.

This weekend will be sweet for productivity. I'm taking a half day off tomorrow so I can get something done.

Better days to come Alan.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Here's some pictures of how I handled the router box hoses. Took a Nordfab hose adapter, and put it through the hole in the back of the router box. Attached flex hose to it. Usual tape, caulk, epoxy, clamp, prayer.

Then went around the corner with the flex hose to another Nordfab flex adapter oriented so that its rolled edge is outside the back of the cabinet. Elbow clamped to that, and we're ready to go.




























Anyone doing this in the future, I would either make a 5" hole for the middle wall, or just make a larger rectangular opening that can easily fit the 4" flex hose (at least 4.5" diameter to make it easy to pass the hose.)


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


That looks like an effective solution.

How do you modify the lengths on the Nordfab ducting? If you shorten the 5' run then you'll lose the lip to connect them together? I have 3 of the ~5' runs in my Rockler cart along with the clips ready to purchase.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


There are adjustable nipples. You cut the Nordfab to approximate size ( a little extra) and it has a o-ring gasket you use with a clamp to get any size. The nipple is slightly larger diameter than the duct, so you put it over the cut duct and use the o-ring and clamp to seal it.

If I was home I'd take a picture for you.

Here's a listing of the part, with a video showing how you deal with it:
Adjustable nipple


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I see. That video helps out a lot. thanks


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Boy, working with the duct makes you think about square pegs and round holes.

I've got the ducting done behind the router, but I'm going to have some space constraints regarding the tablesaw connection and the blade guard connection.










Ted - can you think of any reason why I couldn't have the vertical part of the blade guard duct on the left side of the saw instead of the right side? I could have it come down from above and have easier connections.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hi Alan,
That's some impressive ducting. Do you have a flex hose that attaches to the end of that wye?

I see your dilemma with the dust arm. The only issue I see with the dust arm coming from the left side is having it limit the length on the left side of the blade. You could possibly have it telescope out so it doesn't limit you and that would also allow you to tuck it away when you're not using it. Another issue I just thought of when you have it on the left side is having to go around the dust arm to get to your fresh cut lumber. I think you'll find it a pain in the end.

I'm about ready to remove my dust arm from the saw, because sometimes it's a pain. Since I use the Festool vac for the dust collection on the blade guard, I'm going to design a pivoting shelf mounted on the wall so when I use my Festool vac for the TS55 or the tablesaw, I'll swing it out, hook it up and go. The hose will come from above and extend with a short boom arm so when I use the hose it won't be in the way. I'm going to try to design and build it this weekend. Hopefully I have some wall space or this idea isn't going to fly.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I like the idea of the wall mounted boom arm. I could use that setup as well. I'd love to see what you come up with. Since your Festool vac is ceiling mounted, having a plug in for the hose on the front of the saw would just get in the way.

I had originally thought of a wall mounted swing-down outfeed table, but I thought that aligning it would be too much of a pain. With flex hose and ducting, the DC arm wouldn't have those issues.

I'm thinking of a short piece of flex tubing or a small 30 degree elbow then some straight tubing to the end of the cabinet for the end of the wye you see above. Alternatively, Some flex to a wye or 90 degree elbow mounted at the base of the wall. Either approach should work. I think even with several feet of 5" flex hose, the dust collection capacity for the router is so much overkill, I'll be fine. In fact, I think I'm going to need to account for more makeup air with holes at the bottom of the front door. We'll see when I hook it up.

I'm being driven nuts with arranging the connections to the table saw. That is proving more challenging with the distribution of the wyes and the spacing.

Another issue I'm running into is the need to support the metal ducting from the back of the cabinet. You made wood supports for your DC arm ducting. I may have to do the same for the metal ducting. I'm going to make a Lowe's run and see what they might have available. The Nordfab ones really aren't designed for this purpose of horizontally supporting the duct from a vertical surface.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I think I'll wall mount the Festool Vac so it's more easily accessible, that way I don't have to lower it which proved to be a pain. I'll continue to change it up until I find something that works with very little effort.

Yeah working with ducting is a pain and definitely tests your patience. I too will have to revisit my ducting.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Back to Stage 2 of waiting on ducting. When this wave comes through, hopefully I haven't forgotten anything and will have the entire router table and table saw connected for dust collection.

Then full speed ahead on the outfeed table.

I did install the full bin sensor on the Oneida 35gal drum. A pain to drill the 3/4" hole through the metal top, but done and can forget about it.

The plastic insert in the drum that allows the use of garbage bags seems like a real nice addition. Can wait to try it out.

So whole lot of nothing over the past 3 days. And this weekend I'm working, so am in a definite holding pattern.

Ted:
Any further decisions / builds with the DC arm / Festool on shelf?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hello Alan,
I wonder if JDS offers a plastic insert so I too can use a bag. Could you take a picture of the plastic insert so I can try to make my own. I'm guessing it's an insert down below that holds the bag down.

So I did shelf mount the Festool Vac but I haven't created the arm yet. I mounted it high enough so it's out of the way but I'm still able to get to the auto/manual switch. I haven't given up on the dust arm yet because I tested out closing all but the TS blast gate and the DC is able to pull the dust from the top of the table even with that pathetic 'T' port. To prevent the collapsing of my ducting I'm creating some ducting frames. If this works it'll save me some cash.

I've also been working on my wife's craft desk so like you I haven't been able to get much done.

I'll take pictures of the Festool Vac as soon as I make the boom arm and come up with a retractable solution for the hose and cord.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. A couple of more steps forward. The missing 8" machine adapter arrived, so I was able to make connections and fire up the dust collector.

All I can say is that the Oneida really sucks. Impressively. Most of the imbedded sawdust inside the table saw dust cabin vanished instantly. The rest I got it to suck up with a few compressed air bursts. The same seemed to apply when I cut a few quick pieces of plywood.

So, sneaking up on it. The dust cabin does seem to be very effective given a sufficiently powered dust collector. Harbor Freight DC - not so much.

Routing the duct is still quite the nightmare. The cyclone is about 1/2"-1" too short, so I may have to place a piece of plywood underneath it. I also should have arranged the wyes in a different order. Not sure if I'll eat the restocking fee and fix that. I might.

Here's a few pictures:


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


That's outstanding news Alan. I'm glad you're now seeing the results you wanted. You definitely designed the cabinet to do so.

The ducting you bought is also impressive. Can you shorten a piece by a 1/2 inch or is that not possible with this stuff?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'd love to be able to shorten a piece by 1/2", but I can't see how I could get an adjustable nipple in in that vertical run. Lots going on in that short vertical run. A different configuration, perhaps.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Didn't get a chance to post a picture of that Oneida plastic insert, but I can describe it easily. Imagine a plastic cylinder with the ends snapped together with plastic toggle bolts making a light, rigid closed cylinder. A couple of plastic handle cutouts are in there somewhere too.

I'd imagine any sheet of semi-rigid plastic that can be bent into a cylinder slightly smaller than the drum would work and be far cheaper than Oneida's.

Just place a 55gal drum plastic garbage bad inside the 35 gal drum and put the cylinder inside it. Voila'.

When the drum is full, pull out the cylinder leaving a full plastic bag full of chips that can be easily removed without having to empty a big drum.

Working all weekend, so no progress will come from my end. Hopefully UPS will deliver the rest of the duct today and Monday so I can finish the back of the cabinet and move on to making the outfeed table. It's so close I can feel it.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


That sounds easy enough to make. Thanks for the description.

Sorry to hear you're working. I too have to put in a few hours at work. It was a brutal week and I'm sure the weekend will fly by, which is always depressing.

Some good news. I was able to fix my issue with collapsing ducting. I can now shut all but one blast gate and get some superb performance from my DC.

I hope to tackle the boom arm this weekend.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Got an unexpected hour off from work.

I was able to route the ducts behind the cabinet for the router below where I think the support for the outfeed table is going to go.










If there's not enough vertical room for the support this way, I can lower the horizontal duct run by about 3-4 inches by pivoting the elbow.

I'm missing one additional 5" elbow so I can't check out how well the dust collection operates for the router, but I have no reason to think it won't be outstanding.

I'm thinking more and more about running ducting up the wall, then have an arm come out horizontally for the blade guard dust collection hose. I'd love to see what you come up with, as mine looks more and more like it'll be wall based.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Very nice Alan. I love how it tapers over a long run versus tapering over a short distance like the HVAC stuff I'm using.

You might have to move it down that "3-4 inches" for the outfeed table leg support. It's hard for me to tell from the picture but my support piece on the cabinet sits approximately 2-3 inches above the bottom of the base but you could always mount the support piece higher. Although the higher you mount the hinge piece the less effective the support leg will be.

Does the tablesaw port come off a different connection?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yes, the tablesaw port comes off the left side of the cabinet:









How many inches above the bottom of the cabinet is your outfeed table support attached? Let's choose the black portion of the cabinet as the reference, not the unfinished torsion box portion.

Also, what are the dimensions of the fixed portion of your outfeed table again?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

Been staring at your outfeed table. I'm still a little fuzzy on how you attached the right side of your outfeed table permanent portion to the table. The left side I get - bolted to the holes on the end of the saw, but I can't see from the pictures how the right side is supported / mounted.

Also not quite sure what/how that angle iron is attached.

I'm going to need my present outfeed table to build it's replacement, which should be annoying.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


here are the dimensions to the fixed portion of the table - 50 5/8" X 11 7/8". I recommend making the 11 7/8" measurement a 1/2" more to 12 3/8". I got lucky when the table was folded down it hit 90 degrees; any shorter and it wouldn't have done so.

The top edge of the hinge attached to the cabinet base is 6 3/4" from where you wanted me to measure. This was dictated by the length of the support leg. If you make the leg shorter it'll have to be mounted higher.

The right side fixed table portion is bolted to the tall cabinet (blade storage cabinet). I pre-drilled where I wanted the bolts on the wing and then positioned the wing in the level position and clamped it. I then drilled through the tall cabinet using the pre-drilled wing holes as a guide. I then bolted it into place. Once I had both wings mounted I then cut them to length (11 7/8ths from the tablesaw angle iron edge); don't cut them to length before mounting. Before mounting, you'll obviously have to but those slots in the wings for the angle iron. Understand that the outfeed table level sits 1/8th on an inch lower than the tablesaw level so adjust the wings accordingly. Does that make sense? In other words, the level of the tablesaw side of the left wing is 1/8th inch higher than the outfeed side.

The angle iron ran nearly the length of the wings to prevent drooping of the table. I don't know for sure if it's necessary but in my mind it is needed. All I kept in mind while mounting the angle iron is to not center it because the hinge bolt will be located in the center. I think I mounted it just below leaving room for a washer as well.

I can take pictures if this isn't clear. Let me know


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm still not quite getting the angle iron location. Could you take a few pictures underneath the fixed portion of the table showing the angle iron / attachment.

Also, what is the height of the support pieces on the sides of the fixed portion of the table?

Thanks.

Alan


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


here are a couple of pics. Not the best but hopefully it gives you an idea. The far end of both pics are the 1/2" bolt hinges.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm being a little thick here, but it's starting to sink in.

Your top picture is of the support that's attached to the side of the vertical blade storage drawer. You have angle iron screwed to the maple support, which is in turn bolted to the vertical side piece.
The wood board hanging down on the left is the movable part of the outfeed table. The fixed portion is slightly seen on the left side.

The bottom picture is looking along the angle iron that is attached to the table saw side of the permanent outfeed table piece. This angle iron extends through the side piece of the outfeed table, which is bolted to the left side of the table saw top. There is nothing resting on the top of this piece of angle iron, but it does go through the side piece providing support.

Is that a good description of what I'm seeing, or am I disoriented?

And as you said before, you really believe the angle iron was necessary to provide strength and prevent sagging?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


You have the main idea except in the top picture you can't see the fold down portion of the table. The wood in the background is my scrap lumber.  Yes the fixed portion of the fixed table is seen on the left of the picture (it's the back of the fixed portion of the outfeed table).

You got the second picture exactly right.

I think the angle iron might be overkill but I put it there just in case. I mainly did it because I cut slots in the hardwood maple wings. I think it's better to be safe than sorry as I found out with my hvac ducting.

Before I put up the 8" diameter hvac pipe (because I was being cheap) I thought about making ring mounts because my gut said I needed them. I paid the price by not following my instinct. This past weekend I had to take them down and make 6 wooden ring mounts and reinstall them; it was a pain but it was worth it. What I should've done on day one is working really well ~ no more oval pipes.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


BTW - i'm pretty convinced I'm removing the dust arm. It's too much of a pain to setup and the festool vac is working well on the shelf. I forgot to take a picture of my shelved vac but I'll do that after building the boom arm; I was too busy redoing the ducting.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

Do you think 1" maple would have any useful advantages over 3/4" maple for the outfeed table frame? I'm assuming you used 3/4".


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hi there Alan,

Using 1" instead of the 3/4" maple I used should work well and then you shouldn't have to use angle iron for added strength.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


That's what I was thinking, although the angle iron would help prevent wood movement. OK. Off to find some good 5/4 maple. Ducting didn't come in yet to attach the jointer/planer (really expected that this week). That'll make for some extra work, but time for some forward progress again. Rough week at work. Was there constantly and got nothing done in my shop.

Shelved Festool vac pictures???


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I too got hammered at work.

I'll take a picture today. On that note I found something that'll be perfect for retracting the hose when not in use. I'll be attaching it to the boom arm. It's made for hanging plants so you can pull them down to water them and I'm hoping it'll work for on the festool hose.

Headed out to take a pic of the festool hanging on the shelf. I'll try to get to the boom arm this weekend.

I'm also in the middle of building a lumber cart but I'm going to make it dual purpose. I want to be able to turn it into a panel cut down table to use with the Festool TS55. We'll see how it goes


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I just used the box that I built for hoisting it to the ceiling as it's good enough. I'll mount the boom arm so I can swing the arm out when I want to use it. I'll probably also add a remote surge box so I can turn it on with a remote.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


The hose retracting arm should be pretty neat. I've just been using sawhorses and sacrificial plywood or hardboard form the TS55. Not a great solution. Actually a big pain in the neck.

I couldn't find 5/4 maple. Eventually found 5/4 red oak. The pieces came down to 1" quite nicely. Just giving them a little time to acclimate (which shouldn't be a big issue, I hope), then will start drilling and assembly. I'll try to get to some of the plywood / MDF parts this weekend. The outfeed table will tie into the infeed table concept that I have. I'll probably pick your brain for ways to make it work when I get close. But for now it will be making the permanent portion of the outfeed table, and then the movable portion with a drawer to hold the miter gauges.


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


How'd your build go today Alan?


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Got called into work today even though I really wasn't on call. Yesterday was the first day off I had had in 21 days. So didn't do anything today.

Did pick up a Jet benchtop oscillating spindle sander yesterday, so at least had a little fun, though it's still in the box.

Been plotting out how deep to make the rabbets in the wood, and the order of assembly. I'm really liked the top of your outfeed table. Just to double check, you have a base piece of 1/2" plywood, and 3 laminated pieces of 1/2" plywood on top of that, with the gaps making the miter slots, correct? Assuming that the plywood is 1/32" less than nominal measurement per piece and my laminate is 3/64", So a rabbet of around 1"" should be enough to provide an extra 1/64" depth below the frame pieces, and I'll have to install the entire fixed piece about 1/32" below the cast iron table height. Is that enough clearance, or do I need the outfeed table to be lower than that?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Sorry you had to work today but at least you got a new toy. I have the same exact spindle sander and love it. It came in handy on all of the curved pieces of maple.

That's correct. 1/2" base with 3 laminated 1/2" pieces to create the miter channels. When I put the fixed portion of the table together I constructed the frame to be 1/8" lower than the table top and when I mounted the fixed laminated table in the frame I mounted the laminated surface a 1/32nd higher than the frame. The worst thing that could happen when you're pushing a piece through is to have it catch. If you rabbet the frame you'll probably have to creep up on it to get it right. I used hardwood pieces to support the table top so I could fine tune the surface height. I suspect the fixed portion of my table is about a 2 to 3 32nds lower than my cast iron table.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Lots and lots of new info there. Thanks, Ted.

I want to use the new router table, so I think I'll try the rabbet approach. I'll have them a little sunk in, and then can incrementally raise them by planing the four frame pieces on my planer. Once the laminate is about 1/32" proud, I'll stop. This way I'll get to try out the new dust collection on both the planer and router table.

I know what you mean about catching a piece of wood on the outfeed table. I took a nasty kickback about 6 weeks ago with the Sawstop outfeed table. Didn't realize it was slighty over the height of the saw table. Luckily all the board hit was my chest below my ribs (fortunately didn't take out my spleen). Cut is still healing, and really took my breath away at the time and hurt for weeks.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OUCH!! I didn't realize that happened to you. I've gotten really lucky I guess. I just tuned my saw this weekend as I was getting a little burning on the waste side. I had the fence jacked over too much to prevent pinching and now it's cutting really nice.

I could've used an infeed table this weekend. I'm curious to hear your ideas on the infeed outfeed combo. I had to mock something up with one of my rollers. It's not often I need an infeed table so maybe using the roller is ok.

I forgot to mention something on the fixed portion of the outfeed table. I made the table insert removable so I can get to the back dust panels. I haven't tried removing both pieces with the table there but I imagine it would be difficult. the little piece that needs to be lifted up is the problem child.

Remember me mentioning that a 'dead zone' could be created from the DC pulling from down below and the Festool vac pulling from up above at the same time? I no longer THINK this, I now KNOW this. I noticed a significant amount of dust building up in the dust chute in this scenario and only when I'm using both. I've never seen dust build up until I've had both of them running for quite a few cuts. I also see it building up around the edges a lot more than it did. I like the topside dust collection but I think there's a tradeoff between topside dust and dust buildup in the cabinet.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Alan,
Maybe you can help out this guy with his Incra decision

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/25138


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


When I get home I'll run some of the ideas behind the infeed table by you. You can probably flesh out the idea better than me anyway, so we'll try to make something neat come out of this.

Lots of useful hints above. Thanks. I'll plan on making the outfeed table top removable (will put a cramp in my drawer idea for the fixed table, shouldn't affect the movable portion drawer).

Regarding the dead zone, try decreasing the suction on the Festool when using it, then turn it off and allow the DC to recollect the sawdust. See if that works. My DC now totally sucks the sawdust out of the chute, where before it did nothing to it. Unopposed, your DC should be able to do it as well, I would assume.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Oh one more hint. Don't forget about the miter cuts and the position of the motor. I had to router a small groove on the bottom side of the fixed table ~ shallow. I raised the blade to the highest level and put it in the 45degree position. I don't know if this too interferes with your drawer idea.

Sounds good on the infeed table; I hope I can help rather than hinder 

Thanks… I completely forgot about dialing the Festool vac down to more of the turtle setting. This is the only time I've had build up, so the 'dead zone' fear was real. I'll dial it down and find the optimum setting. The rabbit setting is too much for the top anyway. thanks again.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Didn't work on the outfeed table today, but made some progress. Another shipment of ducting arrived. Not the easiest thing to install, but I think far better than normal metal ducting.

I finally have the router table hooked up to the dust collection. OMG!!!!! The suction underneath the table is astounding. And more than enough on top to suck a lot of sawdust out of the fence. I left a large gap underneath the front door, and it feels like a hurricane is sucking through it. The 4" duct underneath and 2.5" above provides impressive airflow.

Also just have to connect the flexible hose from the planer/jointer to the ducting and I'll have that connected too. Even temporarily have the bandsaw connected, though with too small ducting. It too is very, very impressive. Boy, that Oneida really sucks. Unbelievable.

Glad I waited for your hints above. They clearly will save me some grief, as I was heading in the wrong direction in a few items.

The manual blast gates will clearly be cumbersome. We'll see how that goes for now.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


It's great to hear that you've conquered your dust collection challenges. I too deal with the manual blast gates and considered buying the JDS gates that turn on the DC when you open any of them. Not quite as nice as the one you spoke of but much better than the running back and forth like I'm currently doing. I guess it's good exercise.

Have you tried running the DC and the Festool vac at the same time?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Started working on the outfeed table. Working with the 1" oak without a jigsaw was a real mistake. And considering my bandsaw didn't have a big enough throat to make some of the cuts, it was interesting at times. Making some headway. Got the two side supports done. Back goes on when I get a chance for a test fit. I am going to try rabbeting rests for the plywood on the sides. Let's see how precisely that new router fence can make things fit. The 1" oak is heavy and very solid. I can't imagine needing the angle iron. This stuff is solid.

I can see this will have to be assembled and disassembled many times to get things right. Very annoying, but the final outcome will be worth it. I'll take pictures when I have something to show.

Also ran into that chicken and egg thing needing an outfeed table to build an outfeed table. Hmmmm…..


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


You're well on your way.

That's funny. Obviously I was in the same boat ~ needing an outfeed table to build an outfeed table. I can't tell you how much of a luxury the table is. A real challenge to build but it pays off everytime you use it.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Had this morning off from work, so got a fair bit done. I've routed the rabbets and cut the oak supports for the permanent outfeed table. The base piece of plywood cut. I think I still might need the angle iron to support the plywood. The oak won't sag, but I fear the middle of the plywood might. I'll build up the full 1" plywood piece with the miter slots and see. If it's an issue, angle iron across the middle of the bottom.

Still needing to put on and take my present outfeed table for the crosscut slot and for ripping the plywood. I don't find that I can get perfect 90 degree cuts with the Festool track saw, so I rough cut it with that, then finish skim cut it with the table saw. Better results.

I did put on the Festool vac at the same time as the Oneida DC and used the table saw. The dust cabin is emtpy, even with the Festool at full rabbit (LOL). What are the differences between our two dust cabins. We should be able to figure the difference out (or perhaps the Oneida is just brutally powerful, but yours isn't exactly a 98 lb weakling, to say the least.)

Pictures when it looks like something.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

Out of curiosity, how tall are the side pieces of your fixed table?

Off today, but tired from work last night. Hopefully serious progress today, although this needing an outfeed table to build an outfeed table is no humbug. Really adds steps/delays to the process. Hopefully fixed portion done by the end of the day (at least usable, if not finished).

Also, what did you use for the pivoting attachment mechanism between the fixed and movable portions. Just overly long bolts with stop nuts?

Have you had a chance to try your saw with reduced suction from the Festool?

- Alan


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Alan,
I think my build-up of dust in the chute was caused by having to use a longer than normal flex hose. I was cutting some long pieces of ply and needed to pull my saw farther away from the wall to gain clearance. This in combination with the Festool 'rabbit' setting AND I actually have another blast gate to install that I've put off. I haven't used the saw with the reduced setting yet but will try this weekend. I might have to cut some more long pieces so first I'll put in the final blast gate and then give it a go. I made a lot of cuts with the long flex hose (40' - two flex hoses put together) so it could've been a combination of these things that caused this because this is the first time I've seen dust build up in the chute.

The side pieces of both the fixed and fold-down are just under 5.5". I say just under because I ran them through the jointer to get a true edge.

Yes, I used 1/2" bolts with locking nuts. I also used two washers on each side; again most likely overkill on the 1/2"bolts.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

20 clamps later, I'm doing the glue-up for the top of the permanent outfeed table. My crosscut saw did need for me to notch the back support for it to fit, so I had to take it off. Then the table was two high, so I had to take both sides and back off yet again.

I think, even though I was trying to ease up on it, I might have cut the rabbets too deep by a small amount. What I might do is laminate the bottom of the board to add a little extra height. I'll see when the laminate is on. Your 1/8" gap seems too high on my table.

The good news is that the Incra table is amazingly precise and repeatable. Especially with the digital height gauge. Although the one I built in seems to have a fair bit of slop in it (have to figure out where that is coming from.) A handheld one worked great.

I lost count of how many times I put on and took off the side and back pieces to make cuts and adjustments. Clearly, while I enjoyed making the rabbets on the pieces with the new router table, it was a lot of extra work that was avoidable.

Oh, and I'm heading to Lowe's now to pick up angle iron. Despite the 1" red oak, and the two 1/2" plywoods laminated together, I can tell it sags in the middle on its long axis. Another lesson learned. Could have made life easier and used 3/4" maple.

How far are you from the coast? My daughter has a friend on the Big Island of Hawaii, who slept through the tsunami sirens, and woke up to water in her house. Fortunately, no one hurt. Unclear how bad the damage is. How frightening. Do you believe the moron who went out to the beach in California to take pictures, and was swept out to sea. Pretty bizarre to predict your time of death a few hours in advance.

- Alan


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## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


1/8th" isn't correct; I got that measurement wrong. It sounds like you caught that mistake which is good. The difference from the table top and the side portion of my fixed table is only 1/16th of an inch. I just measured my frame after reading your post. I raised the laminated table top ~1/64th of an inch higher than the frame to prevent pieces for catching on the frame

Ahhhh, I was hoping that my angle iron call was "overkill". I suspect is we didn't have to cut a slot in the piece the maple itself would be sufficient. Remember not to block your 1/2" bolt with washer when mounting the angle iron.

I'm in Portland so about 90miles to Seaside. Wow!! slept through it. I was watching live coverage of the west coast and hawaii before the tsunami hit and couldn't believe the people out there. Some people are crazy.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Laminated top piece on. Level of top is below the height of the frame. I'm going to laminate the bottom also and see if that corrects things. Also it appears like the angle iron is a must. Once I get through those steps, I'll see if I'm set.

If I need to joint the frame pieces, is that a risk it will splinter around the cuts for the Sawstop fence pieces? Or would putting it through the planer be safer?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I only jointed the edges that I was trying to line up with the tablesaw table top. Although the maple I purchased had pretty flat faces so I really didn't have to touch them much. I think it would splinter if you put them through the planer or on the jointer ~ splinter around the slot cuts you made in them. I'm assuming that's what you're talking about.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. The permanent portion of the outfeed table is done. And I can't say that it was easy. Getting the tolerances precise enough so that it was level, was about 1/16" below the table saw table, having the bolts line up, rabbet at the correct height, etc…

More and more impressed at yours, Ted. This is deceptively difficult.

I took off the oak frame yet again, and did a 1/16" skim cut. That avoided the chipping issue with the jointer or planer. I then had to enlarge all the bolt holes, so more work there too. Then clamping, pocket screws, more leveling, etc, etc, etc… Whine, whine, whine…..

I put laminate on both the top and bottom, which helped with the leveling process. I also did put the angle iron on the bottom of the piece, oriented along the middle of the long axis. Despite having two pieces of 1/2" plywood laminated together, I found that the pieces did sag about 1/16" in the middle. The angle iron eliminated that. Makes it a little heavier, but it's rock solid and level.

Here's some pictures. I still need to finish the sides, and fill in a few gaps where the rabbets crossed.

The router table and a flush trim bit made the laminate trimming a pleasure.




























Need to take a rest for a few days, then on to tackle the movable portion of the table. At least this one can be built on a worktop, then attached.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


WOW, It looks great Alan. NICE work. Yes, it was tedious but as you know the benefits are HUGE and you'll be spoiled there after.

A few days rest is well deserved and then on to the difficult part ~ just joking. A little challenging, still, but a whole lot of fun; especially the auto locking support.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


It really was interesting to be able to see the plywood deflect over the 51" span. Wouldn't have thought it would. The frame strength wasn't the issue, the flex in the plywood was - even all those plys of a total of 1" thickness.

I hope I don't need a jigsaw again until June, as I really want to wait and pick up the new Festool Carvex. Multiple steps would have been easier having one.

Using the SawStop bracket also wouldn't have worked as well. You chose well not purchasing it. I'm not going to toss mine, but don't know if it will ever get used.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Was it bowing in the front?

I'll have to check out the Festool Carvex. How many Festool tools do you own? They're some of the coolest tools made but so darn expensive.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


It bowed from side to side. It was noticeable at the front, as this was a reference surface you could easily see. About 1/16" - 1/8" bow (probably closer to 1/16".)

Turning into a Festool junkie. TS55EQ Track Saw, CT22 vacuum, ETS150/3 and Rotex RO 150FEQ Sanders, OF-1400 Router, Kapex Miter Saw, lots of accessories. Boy. The list goes on and on. I've so far resisted buying the Domino tool (those the Force is strong with that one), and the MFK 700 Trim router. I got sick and tired of buying cheap tools, then buying better tools, then buying great tools. I'm just going straight to the great tools and expect them to last a very long time. Pricey approach, but nothing like good tools.

I've been very impressed with Bosch tools also. Built like bricks. I have their 36V Lithium Hammer drill and Small Lithium Drill/Driver. Made like a sledge hammer.

Check out this Carvex video. Yum…
YouTube Festool Carvex Video 1
YouTube Festool Carvex Video 2


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yet another impressive tool by Festool. I need to be more of a Festool junkie. I love my TS55 track saw and drooled over the Domino Joiner but haven't pulled the trigger on any other tool. I have the Bosch jigsaw and it is rock solid but the Festool has all of those cool adapters that adds to the versatility. Very nice


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Time to get back to work. Went to the woodworking show in town this weekend, and got re-energized. Plus I've got to get the outfeed table done to move onto other projects - plus I need to find a place to stow the crosscut sled and finish the dust collection.

Ted, what are the dimensions of the movable portion of your outfeed table? I'm looking for the wood frame dimensions. If you had to do it over again, would you change any of the dimensions?

I think this part should go somewhat easier. If for no other reason then 4/4 red oak will be trivial to get around here compared to the 5/4 I used for the fixed portion. Plus I have a staycation in a week, which should give me more time to get stuff accomplished.

I can build the box on a worktop, then attach it whereupon it will hang down. Then I can add the supports. Is that the approach you took, or did you come up with a better way?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Alan,
The fold down portion of the table extends passed the fixed portion of the table by 18". The overlap of the side piece is equal to the height of the stock you're using ~ in my case it was about 5.5". I did it this way so when I rounded off the fold down side piece the corner wouldn't rise above the table height when I fold it down. I hope that makes sense.

If I had to do it again the only thing I'd change is the measurements of the leg support. I'd shorten the length of the portion of the leg that's attached to the fold down table and lengthen the one that's attached to the cabin. Making this change would prevent the support from touching the cabin when the table is folded down. The length of the outfeed table is fine for me.

Yes, you can see that in an early post that I made the tables first and then built the support last. In fact, I even used the outfeed table before I created the support by putting my adjustable roller support under the table to prop it up.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Wood planed, jointed, sanded, and cut to size for the frame. Plywood shlepped from HD. I'm thinking now of 1/2" plywood sitting in dado for top, with a piano hinge that lifts up revealing hidden storage area for miter gauge. I think using an actual drawer would take away too much space, plus I don't think I'll have access with the cyclone in the way.

I'll get some practice, hopefully, making some routed custom inserts for the stuff I store, which will be fun to do.

I just need to come up with come kind of flush handle with the top plywood so that I can lift the plywood, plus some toy box hinges to hold open the top when needed.

Pictures to follow, when I have a Kodak moment.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Well having a pivoting part (the movable section of outfeed table) with space inside and storage certainly made the design more difficult than Ted's setup. I think I'll be happy with the miter gauge storage, but I'll definitely have to post pictures of the design, as the front L-R support piece of wood will hit the back piece of the fixed outfeed table unless it is recessed by almost 3-3/4 inches. To make that work with a laminate piece that will hinge upward from the back, the front piece will also need to be shorter vertically.

Ted's design gets around that issue by not having a front piece of wood on the movable section of outfeed table.

Plus Ted's hinged support piece on the back of his hinged outfeed table piece will get in the way, so I'll have to attach that to the back of the movable outfeed table.

I'm sure that none of that is clear, but I'll attach photos when built.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'm eager to see pics of your built-in storage into your outfeed table.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Not working out well, so far.

The front piece hits the motor, or hits the sides.

I would have to make the front piece very short (top to bottom) to avoid the motor, and pretty low to allow the top to rest on it. Also, it would have to move even more back, which is making the dimension too small to fit the miter gauge (which I what I really wanted to store in it.)

Not sure where to go from here. I'll rabbet the top of the boards and make and fit the top. Then I'll see if I can put a bottom on it and see what I can do. I see more angle iron in my future.

Not working out like I saw it in my head. Lots of little things keep making the storage smaller, and smaller, and the structure harder and harder to build.

I have no doubt I can build storage into it, but to store what?????


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Maybe you can use the empty space between the saw base and the tall cabinet beneath the right wing for the miter gauge storage.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I've got the tenoning jig there now, but I'll relook at things.

Built the top for the movable outfeed table today. I'll trim and neaten it up tomorrow, then laminate it.

I'll have to then figure out temporary support, then the hinge mechanisms. I'll need it to attach to the back of the back piece of the frame instead of the inside like yours in order to put a bottom on the piece and be able to keep the middle for storage.

Screwed up the rabbeting again today. Clearly your approach is better, but I'm being stubborn on this one. I'll have some wood filling to do afterwards.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Maybe you can take a few snap shots and post them. I'm trying to invision this still being able to fold down and not interfere with the motor etc. Will you be using a piano hinge?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'll see what I can do later. It's hard to take pictures now because I'm taking pieces on and off and sanding them, routing them, etc to get them to fit properly. The frame has only been together once or twice. Once I finish laminating the top and bandsawing and sanding the curves onto the side pieces, I'll put it together and get a picture. At that point, I'll be able to swing it down and see if it still presents clearance problems with the motor.

Pretty impressive that you did this off the top of your head. It's much more difficult than it looks.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Slowly making progress, but now some decisions need to be made. I completed the top for the movable portion of the table, sanded the side pieces, and cut notches to fit better around the DC ducting:



























Now the questions. I cut the top flush with the back frame piece which isn't dado-ed. I might have to trim the top piece (which already has the laminate installed) by a 1/16" or 1/8" to fit a piano hinge. What would be the best way to trim it without ruining the laminated surface? Or perhaps the easiest solution would be to rabbet the back piece with a tall rabbet and fit the hinge inside.

If I choose not to make the surface lift and provide storage, then I need to provide some support underneath and built the folding mechanism on the inside. If not, I need to build a piece on the back of the back frame piece to attach to the pivoting pieces.

Oh, and the angle iron issue is raising its ugly head again…

BTW, Ted, how did you attach your top to your frame?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Nice work Alan,

If you're going to try to trim the laminated surface I'd definitely scribed the laminate before taking a router to it. I scribe the laminate sheet down to size with that inexpensive carbide tip scribe tool.

What's the issue with the angle iron? Did you add angle iron to the fold-down portion of the table? When you fold down the table does the table top clear the back portion of the fixed frame?

Once again, outstanding work on your outfeed table.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


The plywood again shows some sagging in the middlle portion. I haven't installed angle iron under it yet, but fear I will have to.

OK, had my epiphany. I cut down the height of the rear frame piece to the same height as the dado and moved it forward by 0.75". I'm in the process of installing four Blum concealed hinges in the top of the piece and attaching it to the back piece. This will provide support as well as allow the top to be lifted. I couldn't figure out a way to use piano hinge and have it not stick up and protrude over the laminate, but four Blum concealed hinges should be able to handle the weight and not protrude.

Also, the hinges allow for small height adjustments, which help with leveling.

I did purchase some angle iron for the front bottom of the top, as it really takes very little sag (1/32" - 1/16") to be noticeable and to potentially present a safety hazard by rotating a long piece. The tolerances really are quite small.

Here's the work in progress:










Also rounded off the bottom of the front of the side piece to make it a semicircle. Ted's looked better than mine when I compared them.

I'm using one spreader on each side to ensure that it's perfectly level, and have temporarily installed a small vertical piece of wood in back that keeps the table from rotating down.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I assume you built the fold-down portion of the table like you did the fixed portion of the table (1/2" pieces of ply) since your dado slots extend to the back of the table. The 1/2" ply tends to do this over a long run; in this case a 50+" run. Will the box you're building for storage solve this issue versus using angle iron?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I"m not sure. The hinges will provide support in the back. I probably could put a few vertical members inside the box (like a mini torsion box) which would solve it, but that would segment the storage and make it far less useful. If I put angle iron running left to right along the front, like on the fixed piece, it should stay flat.

Did you use 3/4" ply for the fixed portion of your table? Did you run into the same problem with that? I'm still pretty amazed that two stacked pieces of 1/2" plywood (the equivalent, if you will, or 1" plywood) would sag over 51" length.

Although, calculating it, 1/6" sag over 51" is only a 0.01% sag, which is pretty trivial. It's just that it seems to matter here, with powerful motors and small tolerances. I guess if the cast iron table of your saw sagged 1/16" you'd throw it in the garbage.

Well, off the install the top to the frame, then start the support pieces.

Ted, what's the length of your upper and lower hinged pieces? I seem to remember you saying you thought the ratio was important.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I used a 3/4" piece for the fold-down portion of the table and I didn't run into this issue but noticed a little bowing on the fixed portion of the table. It's the channels that are causing this as they're only 1/2" ply and to top it off they're in the middle of the 51" run.

I'll have to measure the support pieces when I get home, but I made sure to not exceed the length of the table for the upper piece and believe it's around 16inches (the table is 18"). My belief was the fold would settle inside the fold down table when the table was in the down position. So yes, the ratio is important and my calculations of where the fold (hinge) would end up when the table was folded down was the opposite. Like I said, I invisioned the fold settling towards the table but instead it settled towards the cabinet. I think if you reduce the length of the upper leg and lengthen the lower leg the fold will settle towards the table and allow the table to sit at 90 degrees when folded down. I'm currently at ~92degrees because the lower leg is resting up against my cabinet. The gap between the motor and the folded down table top is ~3/4" so there's very little room to buy back if I decide to rebuild the leg support. I think whichever leg is longer it will win the shoving war…. so if you can try to make the lower leg slightly longer than the upper leg. I think I have 16 for the upper and 12 for the lower but I'm totally guessing and will measure this tonight. Since you have a lot more going on on the table side, you'll have to be careful of where all of this lands.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


New problem cropped up. Don't think you ran into it, but your frame pieces are shorter.

I just attached the hinges to the back of the movable table, and the front of the movable top hits the back frame piece of the fixed portion as it rotates down. by cutting down the height of the back piece of the fixed portion I can eliminate that, I think, but I'm not sure why you didn't run into it.

How much clearance do you have between the movable table top and the fixed rear frame when you rotate the movable portion down?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


New, more dangerous problem just cropped up. A tornado is moving about 1 mile from my house. Pretty ugly looking outside. Somehow that trip to Lowe's is going to wait. 4" of rain per hour, and 70mph winds through here.

Ah, just like in hurricane season.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I remember asking you this question a few post ago. Maybe you missed it. I did run into this but accounted for this by chamfering the bottom edge of the back frame. I left a slight gap between the fold down table top to the back of the fixed frame (guessing about an 1/8th of an inch but I'll confirm when I get home).

YIKES!!! that is more of a dangerous problem. 70mph??! that's not good and the 4" per hour is not good either.

Stay safe and hopefully it doesn't last long.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Storm has passed. Fortunately just a few tree limbs down and a boat-load of rain. Storm passed right over Interstate 275 bridge over Tampa Bay, flipping a tractor-trailer on top of a car. Bad place, EMS-wise. Hope the guy is OK.

Looked like night outside. Pretty impressive. At least it was quick, unlike a hurricane.

I think I'll have to do more than just chamfer the bottom edge of the back piece of the fixed table. I probably have to cut a miter cut across its entire length, which sadly means removing it. The good news is that will be my excuse to glue it (it's only held on by pocket screws right now. I left an 1/8" gap. The only way for me to increase that would be to cut the front of the rear top, as the hinges are now installed. Not going to go there.

Did you have to chamfer the front side pieces also? No way I'm taking those off. I would buy a jigsaw and do that if it came to that (or sand them).

OK, out to my workshop to see how to fix this.

One step forward, two steps back. Really an intricate build, due to all the moving parts.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Mother Nature is impressive, no doubt. I'm glad it passed by quickly.

I remember accounting for this but having to work a little bit to make it just right. I didn't want to have a huge gap between the table and the fixed frame simply due to aesthetic reasons.

Yes I chamfered the side pieces but did this while it was installed on the saw using my Rigid trim router. Although it doesn't matter in the end; my side pieces cap/sandwich the back piece where your back piece caps the side pieces which will make it easier for you. All you have to do is shorten or chamfer the back piece with no worries about the side pieces.

The leg support is going to get interesting for you since you have the ducting and the challenges that come with the storage you're adding. Fun stuff though.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Cutting the back piece worked. Easily misses it. I did, for now, install some angle iron near the front across the width of the movable top. It does eliminate the small sag. Is it belt and suspenders - absolutely. Is it necessary - not sure.

Need to install a sunken pull to lift the movable top. And, at some point, need to actually install a bottom on it.

The temporary piece of wood I have which swings down and supports the table really is an easy solution to supporting the movable piece. I could beef that up, drill a hole and put a bolt through it, plus a piece to hold the support horizontally when stored, and get this finished in an hour. Not as elegant a solution as yours, but it would work.

Here's it now with a crappy piece of wood attached with a wood screw:










And this is a picture with the "leg" stored:









I think with my ducting where it is, and now with the angle iron installed, I could put the brace on the back of the cabinet under the opening in the middle, just over the duct, as opposed to centered on the movable frame. I don't think it needs to be centered because the angle iron and framing should keep the flexing to a minimum, if at all. Do you think that's true?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


First of all, outstanding work.

Yes, that's true. The support leg on my saw isn't centered because of the motor. I did however make the support leg attached to the table much wider than the portion attached to the cabinet. I think you can see that in the pictures that I posted.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I thought more and more about just making a solid leg that pivots off the back. The way the cabinet sits in my garage, I couldn't raise your mechanism without opening up my garage door anyway and walking behind the cabinet. It's that tight. I can't rout without opening up the garage door (which doesn't please SWMBO). So the leg, while it doesn't look nearly as good, and doesn't have that great gee-whiz factor of yours, would work just as fast.

I have another big project I needed to do this week, and I'm like a kid in a toy store having an outfeed table again. Getting a little tired of using the Festool track saw for everything. It's so much more time consuming than using a table saw.

So I made the leg, and installed it tonight. Too dark for good pictures. I'll take a bunch tomorrow. I installed a pull ring for the top, and just need to add a couple of magnetic catches (and a bottom, which I'll make in a few days) and I'm done for now.

Looking now to find the biggest star knob that is made.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


It sounds like a solution that works for you. I probably roll my saw around a lot more than you do and I definitely can't rely on the garage floor to set my outfeed table to the correct height. I guess fighting that 12" roller stand for well over a year has led me to my recent design or maybe I'm just lazy. 

Congrats on finishing your table saw cabinet, it looks great. Nice work Alan.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Outside of moving my saw away from the wall, it will never move anywhere. And my floor is very level, at least over that 4 foot range.

Still fussing a little bit. I installed some rare-earth magnets to keep the lid closed when in the stowed position, and put on some Blumotion devices on the hinges to prevent it from slamming shut (not sure that does anything). Also put a recessed pull on the top so I can raise it easily.

Just have to put a bottom on it, and eventually rout inserts for whatever I'm going to store in it.

Still have to deal with issues with the infeed support (I'd start running stuff by you, in a few days, Ted as your engineering solutions have been better than mine), and I still do want some way to lower a worktop on it, to make a workable top with vises.

I'm also likely going to hang the heavy crosscut sled from the ceiling, able to be lowered by a hoist onto the saw top.

So not really done.

I'll get some pictures, probably tomorrow.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK, here are some pictures. I haven't made the bottom of the storage area on the movable table and inserts to hold whatever I'm going to put in there. The rest of the cabinet is totally complete.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


It looks great Alan. Did you successfully drill through the laminate for the recessed handle on the outfeed top? I'm thinking a forstner bit was the trick.

Outstanding work on this Mega-project.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I would have, but I didn't have a 2" Forstner bit. I did it with a router with a pattern cutting bit and a circle template. Real pain as the depth varied on the cavity needed for the pull, so different diameter circles and different depths were needed.

A 2" Forstner with perhaps a 1-1/2" or 1-1/4" Forstner might have been a lot easier. I did put masking tape on the laminate to avoid chipping.

I needed the outfeed table to be able to trim the butcher block for the other project. Glad I have a usable one now. I actually had to very, very slightly trim the leg as the laminate was slightly catching on the top of the movable piece and I didn't want another kickback incident. I did make a curved pattern on the bottom of the leg, so there are two contact points. I'll probably drill a hole and have a movable bolt go through the leg and the back of the frame to hold the leg horizontally when stowed.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

Did you put any finish on the maple pieces of your table? I've thought of painting mine, or at least shellacking it. It's the only wood that isn't finished on the piece. The contract looks great, but all the rest of the oak is painted black on mine.

BTW, don't know if anyone noticed, but I took off the angle iron on the movable piece. The 1/32" sagging was tolerable in the end, and I thought it would help avoid catching a piece of wood on the laminate edge which is dangerous. Plus, made the movable top much lighter.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I didn't treat the maple but thought about it. Being as lazy I am with painting and staining, the chances are slim that I will do this.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yeah, can't stand painting/staining either. But with the humidity down here, I probably need to do something.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


excellent point. Will shellac make it a bit grippy?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


It might. I would think the surfaces that interface with each other might get left bare. I do have some fender washers sprayed with Teflon on the bolts in between the wood frame pieces to aid in motion.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hello Alan,
Are you done with your cabinet or are you thinking about adding an infeed solution?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

Not quite done. Yesterday I went to the BORG to pick up a sheet of cut 3/4" MDF to make the bottom of the movable outfeed table, then was going to pick some stuff to store in it and rout it.

Well, when I got to the panel saw area, the guy was putting out the fire in the panel saw.

Don't have an SUV or pickup now, so no MDF. So close.

Been a busy week at work (including on call this weekend), but I was going to post some stuff for you to look at regarding infeed table possibilities. I'm thinking we can come up with a workable solution, and I have an idea, or at least the start of one, as to what might work.

I'll post later today or tomorrow.

Alan

When I post this as a project, I'll officially put a fork in it and call it done. Spent what little free time I had this week hooking up the oscillating spindle sander, drum sander, and bandsaw to my cyclone.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Alan,
Will the MDF be too heavy for the fold down table?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Looks like that solid oak leg and the bolts would be plenty of support for the MDF. Plus the piece is only 17×51", give or take. That should weigh (WAG coming….) about 14 lbs. Certainly not nothing, but also have to add the weight of what is stored in it. So maybe 20 lbs total. Is that too much? Certainly will make it heavy to lift the fold down table.

This idea certainly has made things somewhat difficult, plus I don't think it will be able to store what I wanted it to, which was the miter gauges for the saw.

Have to see.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I know a full sheet of 3/4" MDF weighs nearly a 100lbs. I'm thinking the piece of MDF might weigh near 20lbs by itself but I could be wrong. I think you'll be fine especially with your support leg.

I'm sure you'll be happy in the end with the extra storage.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. I looked at it again, and I don't see a way to turn the movable portion of the table into usable storage. The biggest problem is the motor protruding into the cavity. If the fixed portion of the table had been made about a foot longer it could have worked, but not with these dimensions.

So at some point, I'm going to redo the movable portion of the table to lighten it up using 3/4" plywood instead of two sheets of 1/2" plywood, and will re-laminate it. Also going to make the side pieces a little less beefy.

That being said, it works now, so I'll be using it for a while.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Let's transition to an infeed table. I found plans, at one point for an expandable workbench. Look at the T-track pull out on the left.










We could build this mechanism on the left support for the outfeed table, as well as making a right side support on the outside of the large vertical pull-out drawer for the saw blades.

Some roller balls on the top of a swingout could provide the support for wood on the infeed side.

Ted, does any of this make sense, or should I make a drawing?

This idea is making the wheels turn in my head. You too?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hey Alan,
It does make sense but the only hang up I see is…. as you come close to the end of the cut the infeed support would be blocking you from getting close to the tablesaw to finish the cut. At some point the infeed table has to get out of the way so you can continue to guide the board through to the finish.

This has got my wheels turning…. Recently I ripped a long piece of ply and definitely could've used an infeed table. Since I didn't have one, I jerry rigged an infeed table with a portable workbench and a adjustable roller. When I was cutting the piece the workbench eventually got in my way and I had to work my way around it as I was pushing the piece through. It wasn't the safest way but a heck of a lot better than making the cut with no infeed table. After that cut I thought if I built an infeed support this support would have to move with the workpiece and eventually snug up against the fence beam so it's out of the way.

That brings me to what I was thinking. Very similar to what you've showed above but instead of the blue tracks shown in the picture, how about using long drawer slides so the arms would 'retract' as you pushed the piece through. A hardwood piece (arm) would be mounted to the slides after mounting the slides to the exact locations you mentioned above. The side arms would be lower than the table because they'd need to clear the fence beam so they can tuck away when not in use. There'd be an adjustable cross piece that tied the two arms together and this would be the hardwood piece that supports the workpiece and is level with the table. It would have to be adjustable so you could clear the fence locking mechanism (red arm) for narrower cuts.

I would've pursued this idea earlier but as it is now the angle iron is a bit in the way for mounting anything else to the inside of the maple arms.

What do you think?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ted:

I think it's got real potential. I was thinking of roller balls on top of adjustable arms, but they wouldn't move towards the cabinet in use. I wondered about them getting in the way. Hadn't even thought of the fence arm - good pickup there. I was thinking along the lines of having them diagonally skewed towards the center towards the cabinet, so you could get your abdomen close to the saw when the wood moving along. A W-shape, when seen from above.

As far as the angle iron getting in the way, I thought of attaching another vertical piece of maple to the inside of the left piece, extending downward. Parallel with the side of the cabinet. Maybe another 6-12" tall, and going back as far as necessary to accommodate stowing the horizontal range of the infeed support. That would avoid the angle iron.

Essentially, support it a little lower down, if you get my drift.

The Accuride heavy-duty drawer slides I used for the drum sander / SCMS retractable workbench would do the trick. They are permanently fixed to themselves, so no fears of a heavy piece of wood making them go out of their tracks.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Are you going to give it a go Alan? I don't see any reason why this wouldn't work. The biggest challenge is to make it adjustable so the infeed table can always clear the handle on the fence.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Let me put something down on paper and then see if it looks like it will work. If so, I'll order a pair of slides and give something a try.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


The more I think about this, the more I think it could work.

The left-sided support won't have any issues with the fence locking mechanism, so I'll start there first. An articulating arm that can retract on a slide should handle all the issues that I can think of off-hand. If it could handle the weight of a board without drooping, you wouldn't need a right-sided support, but that's probably not feasible. But who knows, worth trying a prototype. My plasma TV is held up by a steel articulating arm, and it's totally stable. Maybe that's the answer.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'll see if I can rig up something as well. Right now I'm in the middle of finishing up my combo lumber storage and panel cut-down storage cart. It's a beast that poses it's own challenges.

and as always, work is getting in the way


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I hear that. I'm finishing up the dust collection for my drum sander and oscillating sander, etc…

And that pesky work thing…....

I figured out one possible solution to the locking arm of the fence.

Make the horizontal support that attaches the two wood pieces on slides to be just below the locking arm, below the level of the fence. Then make 4 equal sized horizontal insert surfaces for the infeed wood to move on. Depending on the fence location, remove one of the four horizontal inserts. The other three inserts will be plenty for the wood to slide on. If the fence has to be moved to a new location, replace that insert and remove a different one.

To stow the sliding mechanism, remove all four inserts and throw them in a drawer. Move the arm as far towards the cabinet as possible, and it will hide under the fence.

Working on building this now. Left sided support with slide already in place. I used some slides I had. Not as heavy duty as the 9301 slides, so there is some play in it. If it works, I may swap them out for the heavy duty ones, though they are expensive and that is overkill, except for the fact that there is virtually no give in them.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Both side supports done, and slides installed. Need to make them perfectly level, and then put the cross piece on.

I'm out of 48" pieces of hardwood, so I'm done until I can make a run.

Here's where I'm at now:










The next step will be to make a horizontal piece joining the two side pieces, attached on the top. On top of that piece will be four 1-foot pieces of wood, of sufficient height to match the height of the table. I think I'll try putting the roller balls on the top of the wood pieces, to see if that helps or hurts (I've already bought them, so why not?)

One of the four pieces can be removed depending where the fence is located, so no issues running into that.

In use, the wood would glide on the piece until you need to move your body closer to the saw. Then by leaning into the wood piece, it will retract into the cabinet.

Barring something unforeseen, I think it should work.

Have you come up with an approach yet, Ted?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hi Alan,
I won't get to mine until this weekend. If I'm able to work on anything I need to conquer the panel cut-down lumber cart first.

I'll have a cross piece that clears the fence rail when not in use and have 2-3 removable pieces that when attached are flush with the table. I even thought I might make the cross piece removable so it doesn't block the use of the switch. Do you see that as a nuisance?

Alan I think what you'll find is that the infeed support will move with the piece you're cutting.

What length slides are you using?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


You may very well be right about it moving. Never used an infeed support before.

I'm using 22 inch slides, because that's what I had an extra set of. A good size looking at it after installation.

Going to be pretty busy myself the next few days.

Post or send me a picture of the lumber cart when you finish it.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Outstanding. I have a set of 24" slides that I never used. It's looking good so far Alan; nice work.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Actually, just double-checked. They ARE 24's. I used 24" pieces of wood.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Needed to blow off some steam, so I worked a fair bit on this tonight.

Picked up some 5/4 red oak, and jointed and planed it to 1". Tried to fit that under the fence - no joy.

I then got a chance to try out my new drum sander, and kept sanding it thinner and thinner until it would fit under the fence.

Learned two things. One - drum sanders aren't the tool of choice to thickness lumber. The planer would have done it in a fraction of the time. I knew that, but wanted to try out the new toy (which works great, BTW.)

The second lesson I learned is that the board can't be too thick because first it hits the bolts that hold on the fence to the angle iron of the saw table. Their heads, as you recall, are on the underside of the table.

Once I got down to 0.7", it cleared the bolts. The next obstacle is the control box for the saw. The bottom of the board will need to be routed out a notch to allow it to clear the box. Alternatively, I guess, I could just cut out a notch with the bandsaw.

I'll try the routing approach first, over the next few days.

Ted, I would just start with 3/4" hardwood and thin it down from there.

Hopefully I'll have my approach sorted out by the time you get your cut down lumber cart finished so that I can save you some trial and error.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Hi Alan,
Thanks. Do you have a picture of what you have so far?

I was leaning towards making my cross piece removable so it doesn't interfere with the switch etc.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'll get a picture to you once I have it fit and with the pieces added to make it the table height. For now, just imagine a 4" wide 3/4" piece of wood horizontally connecting the two pieces of wood with drawer slides.

I think if made the proper dimensions, it will easily stow without getting in the way of the switch. Like everything else in this project, the tolerances are pretty tight.

I was planning on having the piece stow away, but have the built up inserts to match table height removable.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Here's some initial pictures.

The first picture shows the routing under the horizontal board to allow the switchbox to fit under it when retracted.









Here's the horizontal board fully retracted:










Here's the horizontal board fully extended:










Now I'll start making the inserts to attach to the horizontal board to match it up with the height of the table saw table.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Outstanding. It looks great. Do you see any issues with bowing since the cross piece is face down? What about adding a trim piece on the back and/or front if bowing is an issue? If you added a front trim piece you could leave a gap for the switch box. Also, does the right side close while pushing on the left end of the support or does it want to rack? If it does rack then you might be right that you'll have to push it when feeding a piece through. It's a long run is why I'm asking.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Racking doesn't at all appear to be an issue so far. I'll have to revisit that issue when it is equipped with the additional wood pieces above.

Bowing - didn't think much about it. A trim piece would work in front, with a gap. I did chamfer the front edge to allow a little easier access to the switchbox, plus looks nicer. If I need a trim piece, I"ll regret that move.

I need a better way to rout the bottom of that piece. Don't want to describe how I did it, except it took forever. Any suggestions?

A better approach might be with a piece of 1/2" wood on top, with laminated pieces of 1/2" wood on all areas except the switchbox area. Similar technique to the miter track on the outfeed table. If we then put a trim piece in front, it would be strong enough, yet not bow and be easier to make.

What do you think, Ted?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Since you chamferred the front already you could even add the strip under the front edge instead of facing the front. I think that would be your best bet. To make it look nice I'd add a round off taper on both sides of the gap, tapering off towards the switch box.

Routing - Not sure if you made a template to guide you around the outer perimeter of the rectangle or not but that's what I would've done and used my plunge router. I wouldn't take it all in one pass either.

I like your approach so far. I think if I intended to laminate I'd still take your approach and laminate the hardwood. I really like how yours is turning out.

I'm thinking about the adjustable feet that are level with the table. I'm thinking you want them to be somewhat grippy (is that a word?) but not too grippy (again is that a word?). You'd want them to stick just enough to move the infeed support table along with the work piece but as soon as the infeed support retracts enough then you want the work piece to slide. Any thoughts on these removable feet?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Could you post a quick drawing about what you're talking about with the front strip. I'm just not getting it.

I did try the template and template bit with a router, but with such a narrow piece of wood, it wasn't working out well. Eventually I got my best results with the Festool fence and router. Took multiple passes (I could have used a bigger bit, I guess), and was very annoying.

Wish I had thought of the front strip. I just would have made a dado on the table saw and the strip would re-add the necessary strength lost by making a full width dado.

I'm thinking exactly the opposite. I'm thinking roller balls, not a grippy surface. I think once you reach near the end of its travel, the grippy stuff could stick when you're trying to advance the wood. Of course, would roller balls be too slippery and just roll, without the drawer slides going in. Maybe so. Not sure about this one. Since I have the roller balls, how about I try that approach, and you try the grippy approach?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Here you go Alan….

I'm a rookie at sketchup and didn't include the 'notch' for the switch.









Notch out the area where the switch is located; essentially this is two pieces of 1" hardwood with a gap for the switch box. For looks I'd round off the end on each piece ~ the end nearest to the switch box.

Ok I plan on using something in between roller balls and something that sticks. I'm not sure what that is exactly but I'm going to try hardwood pieces that are sanded and rounded off.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Well the farthest I ever got was downloading Sketchup. Never used it. And I'm pretty computer savvy. I'm editing a very complex form now on 3 computer monitors.

Still not getting it. Doesn't the front strip hide the chamfer? Or does the strip attach to the top horizontal piece behind the chamfer?


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ahhh, I just looked at the picture again and I now see the chamfer is on the bottom side of the horizontal piece. Given that, how about rabbetting the chamfer out of that top piece and attaching the strip?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Bingo. Now we're talking.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Excellent, you might even be able to get away with making the strip a single piece but necking down to make room for the switch box.

BTW- I too work on computers ALL day using CAD software. Sketchup is pretty cool for the little I know but I still prefer pencil sketches on paper or most of the time it's a napkin.


----------



## juniorjock (Feb 3, 2008)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Get a room…................


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Alan, you could possibly add a drawer on the right side of the infeed table for the miter gauge. Maybe not as wide as I show here in Sketchup but this should give you an idea of what I see for a potential storage solution for the miter gauge. If you wanted it fixed you could mount it to the base versus the infeed table.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OH, the infeed table. Hmmmm. Have to beef things up, though it would likely prevent any bowing.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Have to go to work. Here's where I'm at now. I've cut the removable pieces for the infeed table. Haven't gotten them to final size yet.










The left piece is 18" wide (the section to the left of the blade.) The right sections are 8" wide each, but the one by the blade is 4" wide. This way you can get the fence very close to the blade for very thin, long rip cuts.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


It looks great Alan. Have you had a chance to test it out? How are the blocks mounted on the platform?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Not mounted to the table yet. Also have to be sanded to perfect thickness.

And they have to be glued together first.

I'll be firing up the drum sander today and making that happen.

I haven't decided the best way to mount them. A dado on the bottom piece with a corresponding wood strip on the top would be the quickest, but would weaken the bottom strip even more. Perhaps some counterbored round holes on the bottom piece, and some rare-earth magnets on the bottom of the top piece. Or maybe some dowels protruding from the top pieces.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Also have to figure out the best/safest way to trim the edges of all the pieces to the same side. It's the front and back edges, looking at it now. Choices are jointer, planer, or drum sander. I think cutting them down about 1/2" will give greater access to the switchbox. Also get rid of glue residue, etc. It's not edge grain, so I don't think the router won't make it explode, but will it cause excessive tearout at all the edges?

I could stack the wood and do it on the planar, but are the risks the same as the jointer?

The drum sander might be safest, but would take forever. And with only 3" maximum depth, it can't do the edge work, just the face work on the pieces. I plan on using that to get the exact height correct.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Alan,
When I lock down my fence the red handle sits well below the bar that sits on the angle iron. I'm wondering if yours does and if it impedes the infeed table from retracting all the way.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


No, that's the beauty of the removable pieces. I kept the permanent infeed base below the red handle. Only the removable pieces are above it, and you'll just take out the one that gets in the way when making a cut and keep the rest.

BTW, jointer, planer, and drum sander - no problems with chipout. Am now fine tuning depth with drum sander.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Maybe my fence lock handle sits lower when in the locked position. Mine sits below the top of the switch box and points toward the floor.

Sounds like everything is working out for you.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Does yours directly point towards the floor? Mine is maybe 10 to at most 20 degrees south of horizontal.

Cut out and sanded all the pieces. Then found out that the fixed horizontal piece isn't level.

On Monday I'll reattach the right sided drawer slide a little lower on the piece and fix that. Then I decided that dowels is the easiest solution, so I'll install a few dowels, and I'll see how it works.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I'd say mine points down about 35degrees so when the fence is locked, the handle's lowest point is below the front angle iron and below the top of the switch box. Not a big deal as I can design around this. This isn't the first hurdle I've ever encountered in this project.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. Have the infeed table finished and operative, just not painted or stained.

Ted, the handle did wind up affecting the setup somewhat, but I have a pretty simple solution. To use the infeed table, I put the fence in the proper location, then tighten it down. I then unscrew the handle from the fence, and remove the removable block in the area of the handle. In this configuration, the table retracts all the way, as if the handle was never there. A little klutgy, but not terribly. I'd love to hear if you can design a better system.

The roller balls do work very well. The sheet rolls on the balls until it passes the balls. Then with your body you can push the infeed table which will continue retracting on the slides. Haven't sawed with it yet, but it does work with sheets of lumber.

Here's some pictures:

This is the infeed table with all the removable pieces attached:









Now with the handle and appropriate removable piece removed:


















And with a board traversing the infeed table:


















And with the infeed table totally retracted:









So, structurally it's finished. I do feel safer having both infeed and outfeed tables, and it is a plus having them retractable so that the footprint of the cabinet is far less.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Wow, it looks great Alan. To add to the safety you might have to extend the fence for long panels but this infeed table alone makes it much safer.

I was beginning to think my fence design was an older model with the handle dipping down lower. I even dismantled the lever to see if it could be flipped but that didn't work. I might make a new handle that doesn't hang down so low.

Nice work on the infeed table. There is very little room to work with in this space.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I could see making a modification to the handle. Basically turn the screw in area 90 degrees upward. Probably not worth it. I think our handles are probably identical. I didn't measure the angle with a level. I bet you didn't either.

I was wondering if the roller balls would be OK. Turns out they seem to work great.

I built a simple dowel cutting jig for my bandsaw (from plans on Woodsmith Tips this month)

Saved a bunch of time when built, but a pain to build without very long 5/8" drill bits.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Yeah that's great that the roller balls are working and pushing the infeed in with your body isn't an issue. I think that is the answer to this project. I assume racking isn't an issue either.

Did you end up not needing a support piece to prevent bowing in the horizontal fixed piece?

That's a nice jig.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


No, bowing doesn't seem to be an issue, and it really doesn't seem to rack at all. Two pleasant surprises.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Outstanding. What's next?


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


LOL. Wish I knew. I still need to find places to store both my large crosscut sled, as well as my miter gauge. The crosscut sled I think I'm going to attach to a hoist and keep at ceiling level above the garage door and above the saw. I'll lower it when needed. Should work nicely, I think. I bought a cheap HF hoist that is small and should do the trick.

For the miter gauge, no answers yet.

The biggest thing I want to do is somehow find a way to get a workbench top with vices that can sit stably on top of the saw but be removable to use the saw. I may have made that impossible by making the folding outfeed table, but it's still a dream.

And lastly, I need to make removable outfeed supports for the SCMS and drum sander. That shouldn't be too difficult.

And, I guess, it might be nice if I used my workshop to build something besides the workshop. 

How about you, Ted? Did the lumber rack get done? Other projects in mind? You are going to build an infeed table for yours, right? Same design, or going to get creative as usual?

Over the next few day's I'll get this posted as a project. I still think I need to paint some of the wood parts.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


For me the best I could come up with is the use of the drawer slides and with your idea of using the roller balls I truly believe this is the best that can be done with the tight tolerances that we're dealing with. I might add a shallow drawer for the miter gauge but that's not too much of a challenge. I will also see if I can buy a bolt that fits the threads of the fence handle and make a lock down handle but your removal process will work for now. I was baffled when I thought I was the only one running into this issue.

I nearly have my combo lumber rack and panel cut down rack done. It's been slow going with taxes, work, the kid's bday and dreaded YARD WORK (YUCK!!!). I need to add the sacrificial piece to the cart and then test it out. If it works, this will save my back and a lot of setup time trying to cut down sheets.

I also have my wife's craft desk mostly built but I still need to build drawers for the thing. The things a beast but drawers and painting (when it warms up) is all that is needed.

That's funny you mention "building something other than workshop stuff" because fellow co-workers that are also into woodworking give me a bad time about this very thing. The fact is I do build other things (wife's desk is the latest) but I don't show them because I want to continue to irritate them (for fun). To be honest with you building things that don't challenge me aren't as fun and I've found that projects in the shop allow me to be more creative.

Maybe your workbench with vices would be something you could hoist to the ceiling. What do you think something like that weighs? I guess it depends on how big you make it.

Other stuff I have to build for the shop include a home for the spindle sander and the benchtop drill press. I have a Router Boss that I don't use that often taking up a large space on the wall that I'm now thinking of taking down and storing it somewhere when not in use. That's valuable space I need in the garage. 

People are going to love your Tablesaw Router Cabinet with built-in Infeed and Outfeed table.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK, the project is up on the board. I don't think that 6 pictures was enough to show all the little details, but it's a start.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


AWESOME. You could always add pictures in the text portion. I agree; 6 pictures is not nearly enough for a project of this caliber.

Alan, what Incra router system do you recommend? What are you most impressed with about their system.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I have the Incra LS Super System in the 17" size with the Wonder Fence. The 25" size would be too long with our setup. I really like the repeatability of the fence for multiple cuts. Far more accurate that I could be. Here's their video of the system:

Also, the dual dust collection (from inside the fence as well as the router table) is superb. Quite impressive. I need to make some of those fancy double dovetails on a project to test it out soon.

Really works nice. Make sure to install t-nuts under the table, or taking off the base will drive you crazy instead of being easy.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Wow, that's an awesome system. thanks


----------



## mark76wa (Feb 7, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Your table is awesome!! I am planing on building a similar one when I get my SawStop. One big question, why didn't you make a case to the left of the saw? It seems to me that there wasn't anything in the way and it's a lot of good space.
Mark


----------



## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Incredible. Exceptionally clean. One really nice build.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Thanks, guys.

The router on the left side would work as well, perhaps even better because you could use the Incra Table Saw LS fence system for both the router and table saw and not have to remove it.

My workshop dimensions dictated the right sided router placement, though I seriously considered an inboard placement on the right side, but most people thought that wasn't the best approach either.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Well, Ted adding digital readout to his table saw got me off my butt, and I installed one in mine too. Actually, I went a little crazy this month, and added digital readouts to my planer, and drum sander too.

To add the Wixey table saw digital readout to my Sawstop, I took off the front rail and drilled four holes in the bottom with the included drill bit supplied by Wixey with the readout. Using oil is a must for this, otherwise you'll de-temper the bit in no time.

Then insert the self-threading screws, and the brackets are securely attached to the rail.

You need to fashion your own bracket to attach the magnet to the Biesenmeyer fence. I just took the universal bracket that was included with the kit, and bent it into a squared off S-shape.










After calibrating it, it's amazingly accurate. Of course, now I'll need to fashion a micro-adjuster, otherwise I'll develop that sickness of tap-tap-tapping the fence to get the perfect dimension.

An new problem was created by this. The Wixey measurement rail hangs below the level of the fence rail, and blocks my retracting outfeed table.

After some thought, I figured out a solution. I drilled two holes in the front of each of the retracting rails, and remove the horizontal infeed table support piece (it had been previously attached by screws), and drilled two matching holes in each side, and glued in 1/2" wood dowels.

So now I can remove the horizontal piece and stow on the shelf of the cabinet, and when I need to use it, I just need to insert it's four dowels in the matching four holes. Takes all of 15 seconds. Works great.










And here's a picture with the infeed table retracted, and the horizontal piece stowed below.










All and all, the cabinet still remains tremendously functional.


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


That's a great solution Alan. You're back in business. Very NiCE!!!!


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


I've got a General International table saw micro adjuster on order. It's made to work with the SawStop Biesenmeyer fence. Once I get it set up, it should be the best of both worlds.

When it comes in, I'll post pictures and the model number of the part.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. The General International table saw micro adjuster came it (took quite a while):









Assembly just took an Allen wrench (provided) and one combination wrench, plus some lithium grease (any lubricant would do). Took all of 5 minutes to complete the entire job.

It works great, and is made just for the Biesenmeyer fence on the SawStop. It works great.










Highly recommended. Now I won't be tap, tap, tapping the fence. Woo Hoo!!!!!!!!


----------



## tedth66 (Sep 1, 2009)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Ahhhhh, very nice!!! I'm going to have to get me one of them, I'm still tappity tap'n.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Forgot to mention, that my local Woodcraft was able to order that General International part for me, so wasn't tough to get. Anyone who sells or has access to General should be able to order that for you.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Big changes in store for the cabinet in the near future. But for now, I'm including a few pictures of the sliding holders for my Incra Miter Express Miter Sled:

This is the main portion of the sled, with the Incra 1000HD Miter Gauge attached. It's attached to the cabinet on a drawer slide, so it can slide out, and then retract to get out of the way.









And this is the waste portion of the sled, being held on a sliding piece of wood, attached to the cabinet:









So I found useful storage for another sled/jig.

I'm also working on making auxiliary fences for the router out of extruded aluminum with stops and micro-adjustments, which will help with some of the boxes I've been making.

I'll be starting a new blog for a new improved outfeed table, as I've never been happy with my design, though it does work. Tolerances just aren't up to my liking / usual picky standards.

The new outfeed table will incorporate a Stockroom Supply Flatmaster Sander with dust collection, jig storage, improved access to the back of the saw, and anything else I can stuff in there.

I use this Incra Sled a lot for small pieces, and mitered angles when I don't use my large crosscut sled, and it's nice to be able to stow it away.


----------



## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


This is a double posting, as I should have posted this here instead of on the project:

OK. Haven't posted in quite some time.

I've had 2 - 1/2 years with the table saw cabinet / router table / infeed table / outfeed table / kitchen sink, and have learned a few things, what works, what needs improvement, etc…

First of all, the Woodpeckers PRL-V2 router lift just annoys me. If I had planned for the Sidewinder crank system, I would probably like it better. The gross adjustment crank just is a pain. You are constantly bumping it down, then overshooting, and lifting back up, and overshooting.

So I bought an Incra / Jessen Master-Lift II router lift. I like its crank mechanism far better.



















It assembles very quickly, but the one annoyance with it was how you microadjust it to the size of the router plate opening. It's a trial and error system, and I still wound up having to shim one side with some masking tape. But other than that, it's a much better system, IMHO, than the Woodpeckers.

The second issue I'm running into is that I just noticed that the filler piece of MDF that is used to anchor the Incra Wonder Fence is warped. I think the weight of the disc sander I've been placing on it, plus the combination of not being supported in the middle underneath was a problem. This is the area under the piece of MDF. Clearly, when fixing this problem, some support underneath would be helpful.










I minor problem might be that I only laminated the top of it, not the bottom.

I'm cutting a new baltic birch plywood piece for the opening, will glue on a new piece of laminate on the top, and I have some aluminum angle iron for the bottom to prevent warping.

I also built a new extension fence for the Incra Wonder Fence. Hint to Incra - build a accessory longer fence. I found when building boxes, and routing for those tiny hinges, that I needed stops on a longer fence than the stock Wonder Fence.

I tried extruded aluminum, other companies router fences - all for naught. Incra builds their fence with the opening for the oval nuts and bolts at a non-conventional dimension. Makes building an accessory fence to attach to it very difficult.

And I didn't want to give up those fantastic Jessen Clear-Cut Stock Guides. Those rollers worked fantastically holding down the work and pushing it towards the fence. Very, very highly recommended. So I didn't want to lose those, and didn't.










It's made out of multiple pieces of MDF to make the total thickness 1" +, plus used the Kreg Top Track for the top of it, and my Woodhaven swiveling stop blocks and micro adjusters. All the spacing was problematic. Eventually all solved, but someone should make one of these, and it should be Incra.










So I'm going to switch the postings back here to the blog, which I think is the most appropriate location. When I'm finished, I'll post the pictures here and perhaps back on the project posting, but I'll detail any building/modifications here.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


OK. The replacement piece for the table saw table is finished, with the Incra router fence base attached to it. A little robust construction than before - Baltic birch plywood, formica laminate on top again, but this time, steel plates placed below the plywood to prevent bowing.










Here's the metal plates on the bottom of the plywood, plus the T-nuts epoxied in place for the Incra Router Fence base.










The wood supports in the cabinet itself make longer metal plates, hopefully unnecessary.

I was able to shim the extension table top to a much tighter tolerance than before. The table is within 0.01 on all four corners.

Now I just need to install the replacement Wixey DRO on the new Incra router lift, and this project will be even better than before.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Getting close to disassembly time for the old outfeed table. I'm painting its replacement, so soon I'll replace the old one with the new, improved outfeed table with built in Flatmaster drum sander, and lots of storage.

Details in my assembly blog for that (shameless self-promotion to follow).
 
New Outfeed Table with Integrated Flatmaster Drum Sander and Storage


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## tdwilli1 (Jan 21, 2014)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Excellent build and have read every comment on yours and Ted's blog.

I am going to be building a similar table and was wondering if you had the cutout dimensions for the Sawstop base and the tall slide out drawer dimensions. If so could you PM them to me?

Thanks,
Tim


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## MarinerMonty (Sep 29, 2013)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


For nice look table !

The first couple pictures, it appears you have glued. Or screwed the peice of. 3/4 inch together to make the boxes for the base? I am assuming this is to prevent. sag ? 
Perhaps I missed the post, do you by chance have the measurement to for the boxes and thr upright cabinet for the blades ?

Also how did you attach boxes to the base ?

Thank you in advance for you time ! Really like you attention to detail !

All the best from the East coast of Canada .


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Haven't posted in a while. There have been some very substantial changes to the table. All hopefully upgrades, some steps backwards, but lots of new additions.

I've revised the fence to the addition of Jessem Clear Cut Stock Guides, which are quite nice, but limit the use of GRR-Ripper push blocks, which I find incredibly useful and safe. 









So I found another device that is amazingly useful for pushing small stock through the table saw safely. It's made by DuelenTools and is called the Duelen Safety Fence. It attaches to the face of your Biesenmeyer Fence, and has a crank that moves a small plastic piece that pushes your wood through the blade. It works extremely well on narrow stock. I made a cherry auxillary fence that it is attached to, which I can clamp to the SawStop Biesenmeyer Fence with two built in clamps. 

























You can also see the Wixey Digital Readout that I added to the fence along with a General Microadjuster. Makes dialing in the fence to 0.005 a piece of cake.


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Over the next few weeks, once I handle some issues I've been having with it and its manufacturer, I'll also post about the addition of a Ready2Rout system (computer controlled router table fence, and router lift). I've replaced my Jessem MastRLift II with it, as well as replacing my Incra LS Positioner router fence (which was fantastic, but took up a lot of space, and would have to be removed to make any crosscuts wider than 27" on the table).

I'm also adding a Comatic power feeder for the router. This necessitated a huge amount of work, and I think, a very clever method of installing the base. Those power feeders are unbelievably heavy, and on a long arm, functioning as a very heavy lever, produce an amazing amount of torque trying to lift up the extension table. I've had to reinforce it with quite a bit more steel, and bolt it on all four sides to the cast iron tables to the left and right of it. It should be rock solid when installed, and make router operations safer.


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## htonamie (Nov 13, 2014)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


what is the size of your Saw Stop?


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


It's the contractor saw. I plan on selling this soon, and modifying it for a PCS or ICS.


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## e_dogg (Jan 10, 2018)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


First, ZZZZdoc- your build is amazing! Researching options for my Sawstop led me to discovering this forum, and I have since signed up and read through all the history on your(as well as tedth66's) cabinets, and your planning and attention to detail is amazing.

I was wondering if you would be willing to sell/share your template for the cutout under the saw base? I am picking up my 36" contractor model this weekend and am working on a more basic base. My plan is to make an open support area with a dust box under the saw and add drawers to the open boxes later on- as I need to get the saw into a mobile/working state to finish some other projects.

Thanks in advance!


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## zzzzdoc (Mar 6, 2010)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


e_dogg:

Thanks for the nice comments. I don't have a specific template for the cutout under the base. I probably had one when I built it, but that was more than 7 years ago.

Just measure the distances under the feet of the saw. Keep the rubber feet - they turned out to be good cushioning.

Make sure, if you are making an outfeed table later, to allow for tilting of the saw. That was one of the most vexing issues that Ted and I ran into. As well as dust collection. It's not easy to get good dust collection out of the contractor saw - and that's despite me having a 5HP cyclone with 6" ducting going into it.

If you live close to me - I'm planning on selling the table, to upgrade to a PCS or ICS in the future with my upgraded shop. If you have a desire to do that, PM me. I'm in the Tampa Bay, Florida area.


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## e_dogg (Jan 10, 2018)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


Thanks for responding and No problem! It appears one detail I missed was how long ago your build thread was started… I am in the Memphis area, so its a bit too far otherwise I would probably take you up on your cabinet.

I have done some digging and am going to try a variation on the plan below (Fine Moodworking may/June '09) to solve the dust issue, as well as provide outfeed support. This design does account for tilting the blade by enclosing the entire area the external motor moves within. I found their suggestion on the holes in the Zero clearance insert interesting, and will give that a try as well.


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## ShawnMcG (Apr 14, 2018)

zzzzdoc said:


> *Sawstop and Router Cabinet / Infeed Table / Outfeed Table Project*
> 
> At the very start, let me give all the credit in the world to Tedth66, whose project this is totally based on, and who has been graciously providing guidance as I build this. This is a modification of his design, adding a few details, and making it work for my shop.
> 
> ...


looks great and can't wait to build something similiar


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