# 72" round conference table



## dtrain (Mar 26, 2013)

I've been approached about building a 6' round table. First of all, I have not built a round table this size with a pedestal base before.

The customer wants a round piece of wood as the base with an octagonal pedestal and a 72" round top that is stacked on the edge to appear 2" thick.

My usual ratio for a pedestal base is 2/3 of the top or 48" in this case. They do not want an octagonal base that large.

I have thought about making the octagonal base 30" across (each parallel side) and then putting 4 braces (on every other side) on a 45 degree angle from the round base to the pedestal and then similarly to the top.

Any thoughts on this design (or if what I'm saying even makes sense…)? If a sketch would be helpful, I can post some preliminary drawings. I'm specifically concerned with the table being sturdy once it's put together. They want to go with walnut is that influences any responses.

Thanks in advance for any advice.


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## dtrain (Mar 26, 2013)

Here's a rough sketch done with the customer on site.


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## dtrain (Mar 26, 2013)

Let's try it again with the image…


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

72" is quite a large circle, and you have to take into consideration how people will not necessarily always be around it equally. With two-three people sitting at the table, taking up maybe 130' of the table, setting books, elbows, etc., on the top of the table, and not paying any attention, you could easily get a tipper there if you dont watch your construction.
I did a small end table recently and posted it in projects. I built a 18" square table with a puny circular base, (I think it was around 9", but I added angled brackets from the top of the center piller to the tabletop bottom and it worked out fine. The table is stable, children in this case can pull up to it without it tipping, and it turned out quite stable, considering I have a round bottom.

I think with the octogan pedestal, you might want to think about a brace from each flat of the octogon going up to the bottom of the tabletop. The two inch thick edge would help hide the extra bracing. since they don't want a 48" base, probably due to feet and chair legs, would half, or 36" do? I'd push that envelope as far as possible, and make sure as many up braces as possible were there. I'd also try to eliminate the bottom braces if at all possible, to maintain a clean look. That is going to be hard, maybe a circular skirt on the bottom of the pedestal where it connects to the base to help with its connection with the base?
Just some ideas…


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## dtrain (Mar 26, 2013)

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll see if they'll consider the 36" base. I thought about the braces up top and think they will be a good idea. You're right about hiding them to some extent with the thicker top. I agree with you about getting rid of the bottom braces - I don't like them either… Can you clarify what a circular skirt would be? I had considered putting crown moulding connected to the pedestal and the round base but getting it in walnut can be expensive and I'm not sure they'll go for it.


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

instead of a round base use the diagonals at the four quadrants as the legs instead of braces to the base.


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## dtrain (Mar 26, 2013)

I talked to them about legs and they didn't seem interested. Why they want braces instead… I think the legs would look good with the table.


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## jap (Oct 10, 2012)

maybe you could put a heavy weight in the bottom to hold it steady.


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## dtrain (Mar 26, 2013)

That's an excellent idea. I checked your site - nice work with the router table insert for the table saw.


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

I'm with Jap--just fill the octagon with a bag of concrete.


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

Does this mean there is a round piece of wood 4' diameter sitting on the floor?

I think it will be a grim, grimy, dusty, well-scuffed surface in short order. Anyone sitting at that table will be placing feet on that disc.

That said, customer draws picture, customer gets product which looks like picture.

I looked at folding round tables, as for a church or school multipurpose room, checking for specs and couldn't find any. It does look, though, like if you circumscribed a circle hitting the four points the legs land, the circle would be 2' (or less) smaller than the table top diameter. That seems to support your current math.

I hope there's time for this design to evolve a little bit before you turn on the saw.

Kindly,

Lee


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## rexb (Mar 28, 2012)

My grandfather made this table for my parents out of oak about 30 years ago, and it is rock steady. The top is about 60" diameter. If you do use a round circular base, you might consider putting 3 thin feet on the underside to keep it from rocking on uneven floors.


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## GlennsGrandson (Jan 29, 2012)

I like this design, give it a whirl


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## dtrain (Mar 26, 2013)

Ok that's really cool…


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## dtrain (Mar 26, 2013)

Rex - do the legs extend out as far as the top and if not, how far would you say they are in relation to it?

I am working on the customer to reconsider legs versus the round base. We'll see what they say.


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## rexb (Mar 28, 2012)

I just drew the model up quickly from my memory, but it's pretty close to correct. I really like my grandpa's design. I would say the legs extend out about 2-4" less than the diameter of the top. The model shows 2" less.

Also, the center column is obviously hollow, not solid. It was just a quick model to get my point across.


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## dtrain (Mar 26, 2013)

Well they are set on the circular base… In fact, they want concentric circles and they want the largest one to be no more than 36" (with a 72" top) if it's possible. I can make the octagonal pedestal larger - say 30" across and I have thought of putting several 25lb weights inside it when it is in place (basically round iron plates). I'm still concerned about it tipping with a base at 36"


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## dtrain (Mar 26, 2013)

The table is underway. Most of the panels are glued together and I am hoping to get everything cut by the weekend. After speaking to the customer again, they are interested in the top having a thicker look to it - probably around 2"+. I have extra walnut and considered lining the outside 5-6" of the table circumference with additional boards to to build up the over thickness of the edge. As long as I run the additional boards in the same direction as those of the top itself, does anyone see any problems with gluing these to the top? thanks


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