# Electrical advise



## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

Hi guys! Poking the bear here to see about grinding out a plan to wire electricity through my workshop. I know pretty much nothing (as usual)... so I'm open to suggestions, questions, ideas, call ours of my stupidities, etc. I do feel that maybe running each machine to its own breaker is a good idea. Maybe lighting on one, and normal outlets on a few others. Currently my table saw will run on 230v but I only see things about hooking up 220v outlets. Also, should I plan for more 220v/230v outlets for down the road? Thoughts?


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

Also guess I'll start with the info that I'm planning on using 8/2 wire with a 30 amp circuit breaker for my saw. Will that power a 240V 3HP table saw alright?

I also have 6/2 wire to run power into my 100 amp breaker box? That right?


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## DaveMills (Jan 17, 2020)

I'll tell you how I did my single-user shop; it may or may not align with your plans 

120V - get everything that may be running while a 120V tool is running, onto a different circuit. That is: garage door opener, lights, compressor, air filter. They are on a 15A circuit. Then allow a 120V/20A circuit with plenty of outlets, for those tools, most of the time I'd only have one such tool.

240V - same scenario - get anything that may run at the same time as your tools on a different circuit. That means dust collection, mini-split in my case. I don't want one of them kicking on to blow the breaker for some tool I'm using. Then I do have most of my 240V tools on their own circuits, though a couple are shared - just do the math for Amps. I'm pretty sure electricians wans the breaker and outlets sized to the machines that draw power, rather than some arbitrary number. So all my 240V machines came with NEMA 6-15 plugs, for 15Amps. So we put them all on 20A breakers, with 6-20 receptacles. They are wired with 10ga wire, so that we could change to a 30A breaker, if need arose, without needing new wiring. I bet your 3HP saw draws about 15A as well, so at least if you used my electrician he'd say to put that on a 20A circuit, not 30.


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

Perfect!! Most of what you said was my train of thought. I am going to run lights on one breaker, each tool on its own, and maybe run a breaker of random outlets one for each wall. So I think I'll be set there. But… do I need these AFCI breakers? GFCI breakers? Do I need a grounding rod?

Now, I was told by my brother in law to get 6/2 wire to feed my panel. So I bought 125 feet of it. I now was just told that that won't work. That I need 4 wires to feed my panel?? Is there a way that I could run a separate wire as the fourth to salvage what I've bought? The wire is heavy and the packaging came off. Don't know if I can return it.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Your 3 HP saw will do fine on a lot less circuit, 240V/20 amps on #12 wire. Yu can oversize wire somewhat to your outlets, but working with #8 wire is a PITA. I had my 100 amp box wired by electricians, so this is a guess…but I think they used #2 wire. (BTW, 220 is also called 230V, and correctly called 240V, it's all the same).

Anyway, put your 120V outlets in 2 gang boxes (2 outlets per location), and i like them 52" above the floor. In between I put lots of 240V outlets, some 20 amp, a few 30 amp, and one 50 amp (welder). There will be lots more info coming along from others. Seems like we just went through this a few weeks back.


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## DaveMills (Jan 17, 2020)

Well I am not an electrician, so don't quote me on this, but 240V takes two line wires, a neutral wire, and a ground wire. If the whole shop was on a single 120V, then you could do with three wires (2+ground) I *think*, but I have to assume if you're putting in a panel, you do 4 wires.

But again, wait for someone smarter than me to confirm that, and the gauge you need for 100 amps. You might let folks know whether what you have is copper or aluminum wire too.


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## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

I'm currently planning my shop remodel and wiring as well. It might be awhile since I need a whole new main panel in the house but whatever I can still plan. Anyway the electrician I talked to gave me the same advise as DaveMills. Its ok to oversize the wiring but its ill advised to oversize the breaker. For example you can use 12/2 for a 15A circuit if you think you might need it upgraded to a 20A later. But you want the breaker sized for the amount of current draw because its a safety feature and needs to trip if something bad happens.


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

Never have enough outlets. 
Up to you if you want a neutral on your 220. Some tools, like a bandsaw, have a 110 V light so the neutral is handy. 220 tools are single phase, no neutral is not used. I did not run one for my shop.

10Gauge is not too hard to deal with, 12 is easier! Larger boxes can help. In hindsight, I should have bought 14 for the lights as LEDS take so little total current.

Does not hurt to oversize wire, but in the short runs around a room, not really any need. Check the code. 
Grounding rod code varies with county. I needed two 6 feet apart. GFI or AFI varies with county. It may depend on how close to a door the outlet is. ( all outdoor are GFI, usually only bedrooms are AFI) All this is code. There is a reason we higher licensed electricians, and even they make an occasional mistake. ( mine forgot to remove the subpanel earth to neutral strap)

I made all my 110 outlets quads. Reduces the number of power strips.

Be sure to use commercial grade receptacles. If using a switch for things like you compressor, be sure they are inductive load rated.

Can't have enough light and it gets worse as we get old. Don't forget a ceiling fan, ambient air filter etc.

Aluminum is only legal for the main trunk and best to leave the trunk and panel to a professional. Do not even think about aluminum for a branch even if you can buy it. Get it permitted and inspected or you may be in for a big surprise down the road when you go to sell your house.

FWIW, I was limited on my total sub-panel size. I did not home run every tool as with just me, I would not be running the band saw the same time as the table saw. But would run the DC and the compressor might kick on.


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## SuperCubber (Feb 23, 2012)

I just installed a 100amp sub panel and all the research pointed to 3 AWG for the two hots and neutral and 5 AWG for the ground.

Search for 3-3-3-5 cable.


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## AndyJ1s (Jan 26, 2019)

A 3 HP motor on 220V does not need more than 20 amps. 10 AWG will be easier to work with than stiffer, 8 AWG wire. Some outlet terminals may not even accept an 8 AWG wire.

If it were me, I would run 12/3+G (good up to 20A) or 10/3+G (good up to 30A) from the shop panel to every outlet box, fed by 240V breaker(s). You cannot use 12 AWG wire on a 30 amp breaker. The breaker has to protect the wire. You can use 10 AWG wire on a 20 amp breaker (which would give you the option of upgrading to a 30 amp breaker later if needed for a new machine.)

The size of your shop makes it doubtful that any run will be long enough to justify larger wire than needed, except as a growth option. Not for reducing voltage drop.

That way you have all you need for a 240V or 120V circuit (or both) or two 120V circuits, in the same outlet box. I would use double boxes for the option of two 240V outlets, or two duplex 120V outlets, or one of each. Then as needs change, you can easily re-wire the box and use appropriate outlets for what you need.

The three current-carrying wires (black, red and white) are for 240v (black to red) or 120V (black to white and/or red to white). You do not need two neutral wires because the red and black currents are out of phase and cancel each other (IF THE RED & BLACK WIRES ARE FED FROM SEPARATE TERMINALS ON THE SAME 240V BREAKER).

In the panel, the black and red are fed from the two terminals of a 240V breaker, the white is fed from the neutral bar, and the green ground wire is tied to the ground bar.

If you have never put in a panel yourself, I would strongly suggest help from someone who knows what they are doing. Putting in the panel correctly is a job you should consider hiring out to an electrician.

While you are trenching for the wire/conduit from the house, consider putting in a second conduit for network, phone lines, burglar alarms, etc. Even if you do not use it at first, run a heavy string or twine through it, so you can pull whatever low voltage wire you need through it later.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

There is some wrong and misinformed information being given. One comment saying aluminium is only legal as a main trunk is wrong. There maybe some local restrictions limiting aluminum use but it is not a NEC restriction. 
You need to consult a licensed electrician or contact your local electrical inspector.


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

First, hire a professional. Electrical is not a job for guessing by an admitted beginner. And much internet info is wrong. If aluminum wire is allowed for branch circuts, it requires special devices and wire nuts. If you use aluminum underground, it must be connected properly. And aluminum may not be allowed by local code. It is not saving money to use aluminum. Yes, you need a ground rod, maybe 2. Yes, a shop or outbuilding must have ground fault receptacles. (120 volt) 6 will NOT carry 100 amps. You can not share a neutral between two circuits unless on a two poles breaker or there is a handle tie installed between the two single pole breakers. Many half ass electrical installations get by, till it fails. This is not pounding nails. Electricity can, will, and does kill. Both beginners and professionals. A man with 30 years experience just died near me. Leaving a wife and two children in high school.


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## drsurfrat (Aug 17, 2020)

If I was going to bank on anyone, it would be *I B E W *Jon !


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

I wouldn't use any aluminum wire in the shop period. My service entry cable is aluminum direct burial and was given to me after a friend used it to power the construction of a large barn, talk about good timing. My shop too small for any 240V big tools other than my electric heater so I didn't need to stress over that. What worked for me is two place quad outlets about six feet apart. I ran two twenty amp circuits to each box and made one outlet almond and one white as a subtitle reminder that they are different circuits. Also use commercial grade 20 amp outlets. You will be plugging and unplugging many times and will quickly wear out the prongs on the cheap stuff. If by chance I ever overload one circuit it will be easy to shed the offending tool to the other breaker to balance the load out. Lighting on it's own circuit, AC on its own. Biggest tip I got here was to place the entire outlet above 4' so a sheet of ply on it's side won't block it. You never know where you may place a cabinet with a counter top so make sure you are at a height that will miss that.


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## Knockonit (Nov 5, 2017)

yip, electrical for a shop can be brutal.
i'm in process of building 1k enclosed with 400 open. 10ft lid, no ceiling, open trusses, foam roof and walls. So gotta get the electrical right. Over kill is and will be my plan, i'm always adding tools, exchanging tools, and sometimes a few friends show up to spend the day to hang out and make stuff. I also do metal work, with several welders and a plasma cutter. 
one thing i've learned while being a contractor for a few years is if going, go large, more means about right.
Here in Arizona , AC is a must, heat not so much, big problem with AC here is the dust created in shop, filters, dust collector ect. both compressor and collector will be on exterior of building, and piped in. noise is the issue for me, 
all outlets will be quads, with 12/3 feeding each one, all on own circuit, i have multiple sanders, grinders, band saws, and hope to add another table saw, when i had the cabinet shop having two cable table saws was great, but again we had the space. so…...........who knows. 
i've had three shops, first one was already built and prepped, and we added, took away, added. ect.

i am plywooding walls to 8ft, all window sills will be at 5 ft above FF, all outlets will be 4'-6" to 5 ft above FF, 
all led lighting, multiple ceiling fans, and drop cords from ceiling at work table areas, i hate walking on cords, i tend to find the only curl and wrap, and dang near trip and as i get older it gets worse. 
am putting both lathes against a wall with ample dust collection and lighting. have gone so far as to plan to hang a 4 ft led over each lathe adjustable in height, as i get older, light is great.
no matter what items will be in wrong place, wrong height, ect. just fact of liffe, one can only attempt to get it right, but as tools and types of tools and methods change so do the power requirements and space needed.
good luck, do the best you can first time around and just know adjustments will be required down the road.
Rj in az


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

After listening to everyone here is what I came up with. Please feel free to add or critique, but this is my plan so far.

Lighting:
12 LED can lights. Cheap and energy efficient. Run on 14/2 wire and 15 amp breaker

Normal outlets for random use Use commercial grade quad outlets placed 52" high and spaced maybe every 5 feet… using 12/2 (or 12/3 wire, not really certain what the advantage of three is). Figured I'd run 3 15 amp breakers for this. One isolated for computer for drafting. Then two going separate ways in building. I only plan on a small refrigerator, phone chargers, fan, and Bluetooth speaker aside from tools. I'm sure more things will come up, but not much.

Shop tools: Use 10/3 wire (capping one of hot lines) to use 20 amp commercial grade outlets. Each of these will be putting only two outlets per 20 amp circuit breaker. The idea here is to only put one or two tools per outlet. Then as future needs change, each outlet if needed can be upgraded to 240 v or 30 amp boxes.

Panel feed: I spoke with two electricians and they said to use Noalox with 2-2-4 aluminum wire to feed 100 amp panel and it would last forever. Said that the problem with aluminum is that if not tightened down it tends to overheat easily. And to use the grease. Said it will last forever.

Outside outlets: make sure I use GFCI breakers, covers, and gaskets. Only planning on two of these.

Some suggest one rod. Others suggest two. I'm going with two 8' grounding rods. I'm also of course going to run the dust collector and AC/ heat unit on its own 10/3 20 amp and maybe install an isolated outlet for a future dust collector as well using 10/3 20 amp


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

For a shop I would do 20 amp on any outlet that may get a tool plugged into it. I would also GFCI all of the outlets. I have a small shop and routinely run a drop cord from a random outlet outside. I also like the idea that if something gets energized and I grab a grounded item that all I get is "click".


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

> For a shop I would do 20 amp on any outlet that may get a tool plugged into it. I would also GFCI all of the outlets. I have a small shop and routinely run a drop cord from a random outlet outside. I also like the idea that if something gets energized and I grab a grounded item that all I get is "click".
> 
> - controlfreak


Not a bad idea. I may do that. Or at least make one of my random outlet lines on a GFCI (what we line is closest to door). Everything else sound?


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

I run my shop with:


dedicated 220v/20a twist-loc for the saw
dedicated 110v/20a twist-loc for the DC - remote switched
two 110v/20a circuits ending in quad boxes
110v/20a with single duplex outlet for window AC unit & belt sander
4x LED lighting fixtures daisy chained on garage door opener outlet - single switch
one existing dual tube fluorescent fixture upgraded with LED tubes

Most of the loads in the quads are small and generally only one item is on at a time.

Quad 1:

drill press
chop saw
scroll saw
band saw

Quad 2:

bench power duplex switched outlet for misc hand power tools, router table & drill charger
remotely switched pancake compressor
planer
Quad 3
Quad 3 (cascaded from Quad 2):
lathe
oscillating belt sander
bug zapper
(spare)

No real need for dedicated circuits for everything. I never get any trips or other issues.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> Also guess I'll start with the info that I'm planning on using 8/2 wire with a 30 amp circuit breaker for my saw. Will that power a 240V 3HP table saw alright?
> 
> I also have 6/2 wire to run power into my 100 amp breaker box? That right?
> 
> - TellMePlease


A 3hp saw pulls about 11A a 220v. 12 ga wire in a 20A breaker is all you need, #8 wire is overkill and I think that's a 40A breaker, not 30.

But from the questions your asking I highly recommend you hire an electrician and do it to code.

You don't need separate circuits, I have 4 machines running in 1 220v 20A circuit. 3HP ts, 3hp 20" planer, 3 hp bandsaw, 2hp jointer.

In 25 years I've never tripped a breaker ir had any inkling of a problem
I have 4 machines running


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

This actually came with my Panel. I can't use it for my saw. I know 20 will work. But this is sitting here


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

The breaker protects the wire. 30A you need 10 ga wire


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

That was the idea


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> After listening to everyone here is what I came up with. Please feel free to add or critique, but this is my plan so far.
> 
> Lighting:
> 12 LED can lights. Cheap and energy efficient. Run on 14/2 wire and 15 amp breaker
> ...


Using 12/3 for multiwire circuits can be problematic for GFCI protection, I highly suggest not using MWBC.

Using 10/3 for possible upgrade to 30A 240V outlets can be a possible code violation under the International Residential building code if you are subject to that code. IRBC only allows up to 240V 20A multiple outlets to be on a single circuit. 240V 30A and greater outlets need to be a single outlet on a dedicated circuit.

The subpanel needs to have a four wire feeder such as 2-2-2-4, not 2-2-4. Also #2 Al is only good for up to 90A max, not 100A. For 100A you need to use #1 Al or #3 Cu to feed the subpanel.

All wire connections, copper or aluminum, need to be tightened properly. Actually the new aluminum alloy wire does not require noalox. If in a highly corrosive environment it is not a bad idea to use.

If the shop is on grade construction (such as concrete slab) all 120V outlets need to be GFCI protected, not just the ones outside.


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

> Using 12/3 for multiwire circuits can be problematic for GFCI protection, I highly suggest not using MWBC.
> 
> *Sorry. I don't know what MWBC is. Please explain… or would using 12/2 simply solve the issue?*
> 
> ...


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

MWBC stands for multiwire branch circuit where you are using 3 conductors sharing the neutral. I just don't recommend it. I think it's better to stick to regular 2 wire circuits.
To clarify, #2 Al is to have overcurrent protection at no more than 90A. Loading it to 90A should not overheat the wiring, but obviously you are getting at the trip level of the breaker.


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## Knockonit (Nov 5, 2017)

OP, best you should spend a few bucks and consult a local lis. electrician, and get some info. 
lots of info here, some good, some not so good, best to do it once and right than wish you had later.
wire size is . I wouldnt use 12g for 220 period. use a 10 for under 30amp, over go to 8s and up accordingly.

but hey thats me, distance from outlet makes a big difference, using a cord, use proper size, once heat builds up a high dollar motor will go away. just sharing past sillyness on my part. 
best for the wiring job
rj in az


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

I'm actually consulting a couple of electricians through friends, this place, and another forum… as well as reading some other stuff. Just collaborating and trying to find that sweet spot. I greatly appreciate everyone's help. #8 going back. Getting #10 for saw. Already got 12/2 so that makes life easier. Etc…etc..


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## JTTHECLOCKMAN (Oct 11, 2009)

I highly highly highly recommend you hire a pro electrician because if you are asking questions here you are not the person I want to see wire a shop. Get a plan on what you are wanting and he can walk you through what his thoughts are. Electricity is nothing to guess at.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

My two 3 hp (actual fifteen amp) dust collectors, 8" jointer, and table saw all do fine on their own 10 gauge, thirty amp circuit.

My heater is in a world of its own (50 amp).

I have two 120 VAC circuits on each wall and the outlets leap frog each other. If a buddy is over and running the spindle sander, while I'm running the Flat sander, router table or drum sander, it's not a problem.

ALL 120 volt outlets are about waist height, for common sense access.

Many of my outlets have TWO duplex outlets, because you find you need them. Consider, for example, that drill press next to the battery charger and the task light. Then there is the scroll saw with it's task light, AND that happens to be where you'd also plug in a circular or jig saw, or drill, without unplugging something else. You can add a bigger box later, but…..

All my outlets are quality. That means 20 amp and clamping type, versus stab in type.

All my 120's are fed by 12 gauge.

I have several outlets in the ceiling for a convenient drop here and there.

My panel allows for the future. Take the better jointer, for example. Or the second 240 volt dust collector. How about a really kick butt compressor?

I have TWO light circuits, so it one goes down (the ONLY 14 gauge circuits in the shop). . . . I have a LOT of switch controlled outlets in the ceiling so I can add a whole LOT of lighting.

My lights are three (one with two doors) and four way (one with three doors).

A few of my outlets feed exterior outlets for things like weed eaters, tile saw (with water), etc.

Exterior lighting.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

HOWEVER, you will find electricians who sorely need guidance. A few horror stories on this site talk of idiot electricians who wired wood shops with fourteen gauge outlets.

Sorry to say, I know two who insisted I only needed a hundred amps in my shop. Like most electricians, they are not over familiar with the draw of some woodworking equipment. For example:

My 3hp jointer/table saw running with the 3hp dust collector puts you at around 30 amps.

My [currently] thirty lights are good for about 12 amps.

The radio is good for 4.

The charger can be an easy five.

Then there is the air scrubber or the exhaust system good for about five amps.

Kick in the heater, which coasts at 40.

Already, you could be over the limit of what the panel should be running at.

Now, bring my buddy over and he might kick in the second 3 horse collector, or the little two horse one. That raises the numbers significantly.

Add the yard guy running the weed eater, a battery charger, or my copper plating station and it's obvious an electrician cannot guess at what all out shops might need.



> I highly highly highly recommend you hire a pro electrician because if you are asking questions here you are not the person I want to see wire a shop. Get a plan on what you are wanting and he can walk you through what his thoughts are. Electricity is nothing to guess at.
> 
> - JTTHECLOCKMAN


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

Well. I may not have wired it yet. But it sure is nice to look at it for motivation to get up and running.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

Nice saw but it has me wondering. Is that a four foot max rip?


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

Yeah… once I'm up and running I'm going to redo the extension wing (with cabinetry) and redo the out feed. Is 4 ft good?


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## Knockonit (Nov 5, 2017)

doesn't it go to 52 or 52 inches now,


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

At 52 the fence doesn't clamp


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## Knockonit (Nov 5, 2017)

lol, figures, guess the extra four inches left over are for hope and prey , my uni fence goes to 56 i believe, but again, yours goes to fifty, so plenty options on cutting lenghts.
i just picked up a jet with a excalibur sliding table, am excited to set up in new shop
good luck with wire up and future projects
rj in az


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

Well.. I can't seem to find the right outlet for my saw. Everything I see looks like this.









But the plug has the horizontal prong on the other side. ????


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## Bill1974 (Mar 24, 2010)

I would suggest hiring an electrician to inspect your work and/or pulling a permit and having the inspector sign off on everything. If there is every an issue and insurance is ever involve or someone is injured it would be nice to not be the one on the hook. Find out from you local building department what code is follow in your area. There are plenty code reference books available for cheap and much easier reading than the codes themselves.

Based on friends that have done their own electrical work and had the local inspector approve it, it's never been an issue and the inspector has usually provided some insightful suggestions. In all cases the AHJ has always been able to tell someone other than an electrical has do the work. Usually because of how OCD everyone one was will stapling their romex.

Most of the work you need to do seems pretty straight forward (but I also see incorrect information in a number of posts). I am not an electrical, but I am engineer for a major electrical wiring devices manufacturer, I am sure i have read more codes than most electricians. Codes are generally slow to change but there are some recent changes that may apply in your situation.

Some of my suggestions:
Use copper wire (only feeding your panel I would consider using Aluminum), but would still use copper. Torqueing the terminal is critical with aluminum. If you regularly installed aluminum wire and had the "feel" you might be able to get away without a torque driver/wrench, but to be on the safe side use one. Also go back and double check the connection after a few days (it's not uncommon for stranded wire to relax after the initial tightening, especially if the wires are handled aftwards).

Put lights on their own circuit or split onto two incase one goes out out. (it's no fun having a tool running in the dark)

This is for copper wiring that is not a super long run.
14ga wire for 15A circuits
12ga wire for 20A circuits
10ga wire for 30A circuits
8ga wire for 40A circuits
6ga wire for 60A circuits

Find out where you should have GFCI, AFCI and GFCI/AFCI devices and probably all should be tamper resistant (i know they are a PITA)

All larger tools on their own circuit using a twist lock plug. Even if this means replacing the line cord or plug on tools.

Consider putting in ceiling drops floor boxes so you don't need to trip over cords

If you are thinking of unplugging any tool while it's running or using switches turn them on/off make sure they have the required horsepower rating. This is not the same as making sure it's the proper voltage and amperage.


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## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

> Well.. I can't seem to find the right outlet for my saw. Everything I see looks like this.
> But the plug has the horizontal prong on the other side. ????
> 
> - TellMePlease


Much easier to find right plug using NEMA PN's:
https://www.stayonline.com/product-resources/nema-straight-blade-reference-chart.asp

My guess is you want the NEMA 6-15, or 6-20 for your 240v TS? 
The plug PN is 6-15P and receptacle PN is 6-15R for 15A version.

The 6-20R T-slot version receptacle will accept either a 15A or 20A plug, and is most common type used for 20A 240V circuits.

Best Luck!


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I would use 4-wire feed rather than 3.

Ground and Neutral need to be separate and the ground stake does not do the job that the 4th wire does.

The point of the ground is to force the breaker to trip when there is a short. A ground rod just provides a path for current through the earth to the ground rod on the other end - that is, you are using the earth as a conductor. Current has to return to it's source, not to the earth. The resistance of dirt is enough that a direct short to ground - on a ground rod - might not trip the breaker.

Look at https://www.mikeholt.com/instructor2/img/product/pdf/1292432628sample.pdf


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

The tine reversal is the difference between a 110v (NEMA 5) and 220v (NEMA 6) plug/socket.

I assume your saw is pre-wired for 220v and therefore should have a NEMA 6-20 plug on it.









NEMA 6-20 Plug

Naturally you will need the matching NEMA 6-20 receptical:









NEMA 6-20 Receptical

These are for *20A @ 220vac* use. You'll need a dual 20A breaker and #12 or #10 wire depending on run length.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

These days…
110 = 120
220 = 240


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

220, 221, whatever works.

Over the years I've seen markings of 110, 112, 115, 117, 120, & 125.

85-140 is generally considered ok for 110v computer power supplies.

Voltage varies during the day and night, seasons, and distance from the generator.

Note the plug shown above says 250, not 240.

The NEMA reference is what counts for specification, not the little embossed digits. Match the NEMA's and it'll work.

I use 110 & 220 'cause its easier to type.


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)

I got it. Engineer from power comp at coming out in next few days to give my building its own meter. Apparently they can do that for free. Lol

After that, should be getting wired over next month. Too many holidays, birthdays and shopping to expect it in less time. Can't wait!


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## TellMePlease (Jun 26, 2020)




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