# Barn door T&G



## jps297 (Feb 24, 2016)

I am fixing a warped interior sliding barn door. The current door is built with 8" 4/4 cherry planks glued and buscuited. I think the joinery technique is part of the reason for the warp, due to no room for seasonal movement. I'm thinking I need to re-saw along the joints and cut T&G and rejoin. I'm interested in thoughts on this, and whether I should glue the new T&G joints or just support with cross members on the back. Thanks!


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## jdh122 (Sep 8, 2010)

I doubt that wood movement is the issue, at least in the sense that unless I'm mis-picturing how it's hung, it should allow expansion and contraction without any problems (that is, the rollers holding the door in place can get further apart or closer together without causing any issues). That said, I would not expect a solid panel as large as a door to remain flat over time, which is the reason people use breadboards on tables and cleat on the tops of chests. The usual way to do this type of door is with cross members nailed or screwed on the back, and with T&G or shiplab boards to hide the gaps that will open up in winter.


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## jps297 (Feb 24, 2016)

@jdh122 thanks for the reply - the door was flat when hung, but twisted pretty significantly after just 6 months hanging from two rollers on a steel rail. the bottom corner pulled away from the wall a good 6"...I'm assuming moisture/humidity is the issue here, but not sure. Seems like a big change in a short amount of time. Regardless, it needs fixed, and I'm glad to see T&G seems to be the preferred route. It will take extra time of course, but I'm worried that simplify trying to clamp it flat and add battens to the back won't be enough to straighten the twist…the door spans a good 60" space and is about 7' tall.


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## jdh122 (Sep 8, 2010)

The T&G construction and a Z-shaped batten on the back will hold it all flat, but I'm not certain that it will necessarily straighten out the twist that is now in the wood. You would need to take it apart and re-mill (joint and plane) each board and then assemble it. With boards 7 feet long you may end up pretty much buzzing through all the wood to get them flat, unfortunately. You may be starting over with new wood (saving the old for projects that need shorter pieces), although maybe each individual board is straight enough to get away with just cutting tongue and groove…


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## jps297 (Feb 24, 2016)

Agreed @jdh122, and thanks again. I think I'll cut along all the joints first, then check the planks for square. If they're straight enough, I'll try to salvage them and cut T&G in them and re-assemble (with battens on back for strength). If they're not straight…I guess I'll dig into what's left of my rough-sawn cherry and start fresh.


> The T&G construction and a Z-shaped batten on the back will hold it all flat, but I m not certain that it will necessarily straighten out the twist that is now in the wood. You would need to take it apart and re-mill (joint and plane) each board and then assemble it. With boards 7 feet long you may end up pretty much buzzing through all the wood to get them flat, unfortunately. You may be starting over with new wood (saving the old for projects that need shorter pieces), although maybe each individual board is straight enough to get away with just cutting tongue and groove…
> 
> - jdh122


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