# Help me make my table saw safe.



## mattm (Jun 1, 2008)

Greetings, and I apologize if this has been covered before. Anyway, I am both new to woodworking and this site. Being new to woodworking, I have been looking to scrounge some tools wherever I can. Going through my mother-in-law's garage, I found right there on a decrepit old workbench a contactor-style tablesaw that was left there by the previous owner. It sure doesn't look new, but it doesn't look very old, either. It is an Ace Hardware brand saw, from what I can tell. The blade was in pretty bad shape, but I got a new combo blade from Freud (of the Avanti brand), so I think that is good to go.

The thing that worries me is that there is no splitter or guard on the saw. I tried going to Ace Hardware to find these items to no avail. So, poking around the Internet, I found this guide on how to make my own:

http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/howto_splitter.htm

But then today I was reading through this forum and learned of the GRR-Ripper. So, I guess my question is, should I just forget about the homemade guard and splitter and go with a GRR-Ripper, or would it still be ideal to have the guard and splitter instead? I've got to say that the GRR-Ripper looks mighty appealing. Thanks much and I hope this was somewhat coherent.


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## coloradoclimber (Apr 7, 2007)

for me personally, guard I dont use so much, riving knife (or splitter) absolutely, on any cut that will allow it. Personally I think the splitter / riving knife is the NUMBER ONE safety device built into a table saw (not counting personal awareness and common sense). Push blocks (or gripper) are great, but I'd install and use a splitter if possible.

Here is a comment in a previous thread on sawstop and table saw safety regarding splitters and riving knives.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

I don't use a guard at all but I do use a splitter.

You can make your own in combination with a zero clearance insert.

Check this out:
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/2303


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## Bigbuck (May 15, 2008)

What Gary said.

The guard always seems to get in my way.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Can you post some photos of your saw? Would be interested to see if you have a good fence and/or miter guage. You should also consider a small crosscut sled assuming the saw has miter tracks.

One other thing to consider is how much your spending relative to the cost of another saw with these items. If you find your laying out any significant money, you may be able to find a more workable saw on craigslist or in the local news paper.


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## mattm (Jun 1, 2008)

Thanks much for the tips. I will take some pictures and hopefully get them posted a bit later tonight.

Edit: Actually, I'll just post some real quick before work right now:


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

I'm scared to death of my tools and thoroughly enjoy all ten digits. That being said, I keep looking for ways to stay safe. Here's a few of my posted ideas that might give you some ideas for the benchtop.

Blade Guard:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7593

Miter Guage:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7317

Can't miss Shut-Off:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/4713


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## dalec (Oct 3, 2007)

I would recommend that you check to be sure that your saw is properly tuned. You table saw manual or a number resources on the web that will give you more detailed info on tuning a table saw. A tuned saw is much safer than one that is not.

Splitters/riving knives help to prevent kick back. Blade guards act as a barrier between you and the blade. It is not possible to do every TS cut (dado and other non-through cuts) with the blade guard on the saw.

Proper sawing stance, hand positioning, use of push tools and position of your body to the saw help to make your TS experience safer.

ACE should have specific information (manual) and parts should you need them.

Be safe and have fun with your saw.

Dalec


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Look up the Jimmy Jig. It's a jig that some guy came
up with that turns that type of saw into an accurate
and safe machine for big panels.

He thought up a great guard design to go with it.

http://megatech.tk/jj/


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## Catspaw (Dec 15, 2007)

I've been put in more compromising situations WITH a guard than with out. I have yet to meet a guard that I felt safer with than without. I can't see the work, they bind and grab and make me push harder to get the work into the blade (and "tuning" doesn't make them better.)

The only time I'm deliberately "at risk" is when I have to run my digits close to the blade. I use a push stick or hook my outside fingers into the fence so the rest of my hand doesn't flinch or slip into the blade. It's a dangerous tool and I would rather be in control of whether I'm injured than to be blind-sided because the guard is blocking my view or screwing with the work piece.

BTW, I think OSHA should stay out of my business. I take responsibility for my own well being and don't rely on what some one else thinks will keep them from being sued because they put a warning label on something. Also, I LUV the german warning labels…they're so….graphic.

[yea, I know…I'm a horrible person, I'm going to cut something off, blah, blah. If you feel unsafe in using a tool, don't use it.]


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## USCJeff (Apr 6, 2007)

Love the candid comment Catspaw. Don't agree in all aspects, but I do like it when real opinions are expressed. OSHA is a thread of it's own. I was shocked to learn the difference between OSHA and European saws. From the maximum width of the blade guard, riving knife, short blade stop time, and fast guard removal/installation requirements, we are way behind. It's not only safer on their saws, it's more efficient to work with.

I wlil say that an overarm guard is pretty unrestricting in many aspects. It's in the way in others, but pivots away easily. Visibility is an issue if not kept clean. It does add another cleaning chore. The biggest problem for me, is when I have the fence close to the blade. I have to use a really thin push shoe that isn't as easy to hold as a wider one. Love the on top dust collection though. Nothing in my face.


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## Taigert (Nov 20, 2007)

Matt it wouldn't hurt try and find some where to take a class on table saw 101 safety. There is so much that should be covered on the subject that it can't be covered in a forum. Nothing beats the hands on type of learning. I would look at night schools or retail stores such as Woodcraft or Rockler. A table saw has a lot of details that you need to learn, it's not a machine to use your mistake's as a learning tool.
Ditto what dale said in his post, about what he addressed on a properly tuned saw. 
As far as using a blade guard you can be the only one to judge if you should be using one. The only time the guard should come off is if you can't safely make the cut with it in place
I always use a riving knife, or splitter if at all possable.
My rule of thumb when introducing a novice to the table saw is your hand should be no closer to the blade than the width of your fist. Any closer than that and you should be using a proper push stick. The Grr-ipper is a great tool but it is not the answer to all situations.
When I read a post on topics like this I notice that a lot of us tend to forget to take into concideration our varied levels of experience and confidence with tools such as the table saw. 
As a matter of fact the majority of table saw accident involve us "Pro's" go figure.
Be safe and take a class!


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

Matt, the best advice I can give might be a bit crude but if you remembrer it you won't get hurt.
"Never put your fingers where you wouldn't put your pecker".


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## mattm (Jun 1, 2008)

Indeed, one again, very good advice. Especially from Grumpy. But yes, the class is a fantastic idea, and as it happens, I have a beginner's woodworking course starting tomorrow at a local community college. Hopefully safety will be a big topic during the first class.


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