# Router sled help



## 616jason616 (Feb 14, 2020)

I have a few questions about a router sled. Does the work piece need to lay on a perfectly flat, level surface? I know that the rails and router sled need to all be level but what about the work piece? I've seen people use router sleds directly on their garage floor, or on a pair of sawhorses.


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## Peteybadboy (Jan 23, 2013)

If it's like a table saw sled - then yes. Unless you are using it for some tapered legs or something where the piece won't sit flat.


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## PBWilson1970 (Jan 23, 2020)

The surface under the piece of wood needs to be flat or else when you flip the piece that you flattened, the other won't be parallel.

Sawhorses can work if they're stout and you shim the wood so that it's level. I'd be concerned about flex between them, but with short spans between the sawhorses, you'd be in pretty good shape.


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## 616jason616 (Feb 14, 2020)

> The surface under the piece of wood needs to be flat or else when you flip the piece that you flattened, the other won t be parallel.
> 
> Sawhorses can work if they re stout and you shim the wood so that it s level. I d be concerned about flex between them, but with short spans between the sawhorses, you d be in pretty good shape.
> 
> - PBWilson1970


Ok, so as long as my work piece bed, rails and sled are all level and parallel with one another I'll be good. Thanks for the info!


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

I built and used a router sled of sorts, to cut shelf dados. Is this the kind of jig you are talking about? or something else…


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## 616jason616 (Feb 14, 2020)

> I built and used a router sled of sorts, to cut shelf dados. Is this the kind of jig you are talking about? or something else…
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Pretty much, but instead of cutting dados I'll use it to plane a big butcher block counter top.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

It should be as flat as is practical to achieve. I use MDF for jigs and fixtures where it's an issue. Go with 3/4" and add some framework underneath to stiffen it. Picture a torsion box with an open bottom if that helps visualize what I'm describing.

What is critical is that the rails are parallel to the base. Obviously if there's any slant, that will be transferred to the work piece. Fortunately that's easy to achieve with a jointed edge and a rip on the table saw. Just make sure to cut both rails at the same time so they're the same height. If they're not, you'll have the same problem with a skewed work piece.

When you place your slab that you will be flattening on the sled, use shims around any parts that aren't sitting flush to it to stabilize it. Once you flatten the top surface and flip it over, it'll be flush and shims won't be necessary.


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## 616jason616 (Feb 14, 2020)

> It should be as flat as is practical to achieve. I use MDF for jigs and fixtures where it s an issue. Go with 3/4" and add some framework underneath to stiffen it. Picture a torsion box with an open bottom if that helps visualize what I m describing.
> 
> What is critical is that the rails are parallel to the base. Obviously if there s any slant, that will be transferred to the work piece. Fortunately that s easy to achieve with a jointed edge and a rip on the table saw. Just make sure to cut both rails at the same time so they re the same height. If they re not, you ll have the same problem with a skewed work piece.
> 
> ...


I think I'm all set, I have a great design in mind after hearing all the input. I'll be sure to post a picture in my projects. Thanks a lot everyone!


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## wildwoodbybrianjohns (Aug 22, 2019)

This is my levelling rig. I cant get the other photos off of instagram, but there is a board the width as the sides are far apart that lays on top of these lower three rails. The cool thing about this version is that its fully adjustable height-wise, and its the "bed" that gets levelled to the top edge of the sides, so it doesnt matter what the rig is sitting on. By angling the slots for the rails I get more height adjustment. The bed actually sits on the large hex-nuts that you can just see in the photo, and when the sides are tightened up against the bed it doesnt move at all. 
The top two rails are there to hold it all together and square. Takes about ten minutes to get everything set up, and I have since replaced the wing-nuts with star-knobs. I can get very large slabs in this rig. I used heavy-duty aluminum angle-iron for the sled itself and this straddles the sides with stop blocks to keep it "locked" on. And it all breaks down to take up very little space when I am done with it. I also have five shorter rails if I need to do smaller pieces, and another thinner bed.


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