# The Clifton Multiplane



## croessler

I have often wondered about this style of plane. Thanks for the review!


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## Dominic

I looked into the cost of the plane and before I say what it cost I know that your a person that likes to do things by hand. I like machines. So that said…....$500.00!!! My Jet super saw cost $566.00. What wrong with this picture. I know the quality of the plane is one thing and since I was in manufacturing I know machined parts are costly to manufacture but, $500.00. That's a lot of money. You can have a quality part if it's designed right without it cost a lot of money. The cost is so high because they only sell 2 or 3 a year. I know you enjoy doing things by hand and I enjoy looking a things manufactured in the 1800 and say how did they do that without machines. 
Enjoy your craft.


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## stanley2

I didn't know Clifton makes a multiplane but I sure like my Clifton shoulder plane. The price of just over $1.500 with all cutters makes it a pretty exclusive hand tool when you can fairly easily get a complete Stanley 55 on ebay for under $600


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## farmboy

I have owned a complete Stanley 55 and now keep on a woodshop shelf. The reviewer is correct that it does not handle twisted or cross grain at all in hardwoods. At the turn of the century (1900) straight grained pine was more available. I used to use it to cut rabbets. Dadoos are possible in some woods with sharp cutters. I have experimented cutting molding and have great respect for those that produce uniform moldings. Its not too hard to use them as a slitting plane to cut off thin strips of wood for screens etc.

Back in the sixties, I talked with many trim carpenters who had used them and they uniformly hated them. That is why so many almost new ones are around a 100 years later.

Stanley used to advertise them as "planing mill in a box"

Sam


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## tenontim

I have a Record 44, which is a less sophisticated version of this plane. It works for what I bought it for, though like you said, it's work to use it. I've found that if you take shallow cuts and work from what would normally be the end of the cut, taking small sections out, moving toward the beginning, it seems to work best. I'm not getting rid of my router though. Thanks for the review.


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