# SANDING TIGHT PLACES,GOT ANY TIPS



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I've been working on my pie crust tilt top it's a way past due project, Part of the reason it hasn't been finished is all of the detailed sanding around the pie crust edge so far it seems like I've sanded around this edge 30 times. I have lots of power tools but these details really don't lend them self to sanding with power tools with out destroying the detail.
So I was hoping some of you have tricks to sand on edges and details that a I don't know about.

Her'es a photo of a similar detail.










I'd appreciate any and all suggestions

Thanks Jim


----------



## stevematis (Mar 23, 2009)

i would try to make a mirror profile piece and glue sand paper on it. But, because of the different curves, 2-3 different "tool" would be needed.


----------



## ITSALLRITEWITHME (Nov 16, 2012)

Jim, I have two methods. First I always prefer cabinet scrapers and I have two that are small with wood handles, like old screwdriver handles. I will try to remember where I purchased them, Garrett Wade ( they have changed focus but may still carry these) or Japan Woodworker. You can also try a small chisel, used like a scraper.

I have also used psa sandpaper on small finely finished and shaped gaboon eboney sticks. I have more of these than I will ever use (left over from glass stop from an order of doors for a customer with too much money but very good taste) so if you email your address I will mail several to you and you can custom shape them


----------



## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

The only two methods I've employed that could be used in that situation are shop made profile scrapers and psa sandpaper stuck to a flexible card scraper or perhaps thin, flexible plastic.

Outside of that, I'd probably still end up doing mostly hand sanding with pieces of folded psa sandpaper. I like the folded psa around profiles because it's stiffer than regular sandpaper and can somewhat hold its shape when flexed.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks for the suggestion Steve 
That would be wonderful if I could use that technique but because the profile is different as it circles the edge of the table it would not be possible. This technique is great for straight moldings .I've made molds the way you suggested by putting wax paper over the molding and then spreading bondo over it to form a mold and then using psa sand paper to the mold and then sand,it works great.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

As someone says…

"Whatever works, works…"


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks guys sounds like some good Ideas I'm pretty sure I can't make a scrapers work because of the changing direction and with so much variation. 
Bill the sticks was something I was thinking about I have some Ipe that should work for me to make some. thanks for the offer and the help.
JAAune thanks for the help I have been doing the whole thing with psa sand paper and the right profiles would help. 
Jonathan Thanks for reminding me ,I have the same sander and I can check the profile on the tad polls(rubber profile)
and see if I can make some work.


----------



## Boxguy (Mar 11, 2012)

Jim, I would made a sanding tube. Consider using some hose or plastic tubing that is a little stiff, but would bend easily. Check the local big box in the plumbing isle for something with an appropriate diameter. It should be the diameter of the cove or just a little less.

Then I would wrap self-adhesive sand paper cut in a 1/2 inch strip around the hose on an angle like you would on a drum sander or baseball bat. Don't let the strip overlap as it encircles the hose.

If you need more firmness in the sanding tube, another piece of smaller hose or even rolled paper inside the tube should help that.

I can sand lots of things with just my hand, but inside curves are too easy to distort. Unless the paper's arc closely matches the arc of the wood, sanding will not be very efficient. One sanding tube may well match all the varied shapes and save you a lot of mold-making time.

Good luck.


----------



## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

you might try to make a sanding sponge like what they use for drywall. Id try to make one out of a damp sponge, not wet, just plyable, break the sandpaper down so it gets into the countours.


----------



## scrollgirl (May 28, 2010)

I don't know if this will help Jim, but I have this set of contour sanding grips that I use when I have difficult edges:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=20183&cat=1,42500

It is from Lee Valley and I usually find one in the set that fits what I am working on enough to get me through the job. 

Sheila


----------



## Roger Clark aka Rex (Dec 30, 2008)

Sheila beat me to it, Jim those contour grips she suggests are a life saver and often just what you need, and they are reasonably priced too.


----------



## douginaz (Jun 11, 2007)

Wow, God bless you Jim, I can't imagine sanding all those profiles. I have no idea how I would attack something like that. Only thing i can suggest is a couple of apprentice's or a troop of trained monkeys. I have made profiles before using molding clay, I liked that better than the epoxy because you can custom make the finger holds. Other than that you are on your own Bud
Later, 
Doug in AZ./


----------



## jaykaypur (Oct 22, 2011)

Whichever tip/idea you decide to use, it looks to me like a lot of tedious but precise sanding. I am sure that whatever you do, it will turn out just fine.

I'm just glad I read the blog and saw Sheila's idea. I've already ordered a set.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

You've definitely got your sanding cut out for ya. I also like Sheila's tip & link. I think it would be possible to create your own contours using some scraps. However you do it, you've got yer sanding work cut out for ya… OH, I already said that. Good luck


----------



## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

Jim, if you remember, GaryK buile one of these a year or two ago. Contact him and see how he did it. I'm sure he'd answer a pm


----------



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Jim, having done a few of these  , we use the little profile sanders Sheila shows. We do cut them in half and 1/ 3 so as to get into the tight corners. Also try getting some fingernail emery boards, one side is course , the other fine. You can cut angles on them for the really tight corners. We also use the profiles pads and emery boards for carvings


----------



## itsmic (Nov 11, 2009)

Great Post Jim, Sanding is a real pleasure, for sure. Taking on the fine detail work is a real chor with, looks like, many ways to tackel it. Keep it up and it will be done. Thanks for posting, I am learing all the time, thanks to Great woodworkers, like Yourself. Mic


----------



## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

It might be worth applying a coat of lacquer first, let it harden and then sand. This will fill any rough bits and harden any raised fibres making sanding level easier. I find abrasives with a lightweight backing such as 3m Fre-Cut conform well to awkward shapes. Try it on an offcut first.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks Gang you have some great ideas. I'll give them a try.

Gary my table has been setting around so long that Gary K and I were building our pie crust at the same time to start and I started a blog on my build . GaryK is a very talented guy.


----------



## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

You have a situation that my boss specializes in, if it requires to much work give it to someone else to do!!!!


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Great Idea Bob … My wife says no way . Whats your address and how long will it take you ? ha ha ha


----------



## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

Jim I watch with open ears. A great topic.

The example you show is the same as used on my

Shrines. I use a shellac in wood spirit very thin when

dry I take the final cut with a fresh bit. Then I spend way

toooooooooo long sanding, so I watch and wait.

Jamie


----------



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Jim these do pretty well , even on adverse grain http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2020022/28386/lynx-convex-cabinet-scraper-set-2.aspx

they have both concave and convex


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Good tip Jamie

Thanks Charles I actually have some I forgot I had,now to figure out how to put a burr on them.

For those of you that don't know Charles has a class on building a tilt top table pie crust table and the technique I used to make the top I learned from one of Charles videos .


----------



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Jim,

The burr is easy, take some 600 grit or so, and lay it on the jointer or table saw, ( nice and flat), sand both sides of the scraper, flat on the sides, this should remove any burr, then with a burnisher or a screwdriver or any good hard metal rod, run over the edge, first as flat as possible then a little angle, only do a swipe or 2 , then test ,use moderate pressure, not alot. One can easily over burnish the edge and rather than a burr you get a hook, that requires the scraper to be held on a steep angle or cuts poorly .


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks again Charles you just had that on Mastering Woodworking I just had not tried a irregular shape like this before.


----------



## justoneofme (Aug 11, 2011)

For me, sanding sponges are the way to go! You can get them in varied grits, and they make a wonder job of getting into all those tricky curves and tight spots. They are also versatile in that you can cut them to any size necessary; use them dry or dampened, depending upon surface finishes; and then just rinse them out for reusing!! The best I've found (through LeeValley Tools) come in thin sponge sheets that have the grit on both sides. Hope this helps Jim … and to anyone else looking for the perfect sanding 'tool'!!


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks Elaine in Duncan the sponges can work really well


----------



## newwoodbutcher (Aug 6, 2010)

I've had pretty good results by making a mirror image of the profile with dense foam. I wrap sandpaper around the profile (sandy side up) and sand the foam to fit the profile tightly. Then I wrap the sandpaper around the newly formed "sanding block" (sand out) and sand the profile smooth.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

That's a good one Ken


----------



## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

*Elaine* Is there different grits?

jamie


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Hi Jim,

I would use a cabinet scraper. For area's with burn marks, I spay some mineral spirits on it first…that makes getting rid of the burn marks easier, whether you're using sand paper or a scraper.

Lee


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Just in case Elaine isn't around yeas they do come in different grits Jamie

http://woodworking.rockler.com/nav/application/sanding-sponge/0


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks Lee another good tip.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

Hi Jim,

When we did a pie crust table, we carved the edges, so we had no sanding to contend with. It was a lot of work. We did use the router to remove the wood in the field, though.

http://lumberjocks.com/LeeJ/blog/1628

Lee


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Wow Lee that was before I showed up on Ljs ,a real master piece as is all of your work.


----------



## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

I refinished quite a few of these years ago. For me, the easiest way was a stiff toothbrush wrapped with a slightly used piece of cloth back oxide sandpaper, wrapped around the bristles, gave it enough flex to prevent tearing up the pie crust, yet let that paper get into the edges.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks for the Idea it sounds possible Kunk
The photo I used is and example of the detail only it's not my work.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Hey Paul
That's an interesting approach ,it seems like it would work great for refinishing but I wonder if it's aggressive enough for constitution sanding .


----------



## AJswoodshop (Mar 2, 2012)

You should make a small jig that matches the profile. Use some spray adhesive, and wrap the sandpaper around it. Hope this helped you out!


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks AJ


----------



## Stephenw (Nov 14, 2011)

You could cover the profile with wax paper. Apply a blob of auto body filler (Bondo). When the filler hardens, you will have a hard plastic mirror image. Cut it to shape and use it as a sanding block.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks for your help Steve


----------



## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I would use a fine grade of steel wool.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks for the tip Ron but I will be using waterborne finish that and steel wool do not mix,because it will leave little specks of rust when you finish it.


----------



## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

a1Jim Then use bronze wool. At one time, I used 1" thick ridgid insulating board. It is soft enough to work into the profile. Another I would try is a soft cotton rag and pumice.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks Ron 
I've never heard of bronze wool,a new one on me. Part of what I'm doing is constitution type (shaping) so any kind of wool product won't do the job. I sure appreciate yours and everyones help. Because of everyones suggestions it's caused me to look around the shop and find some sanding tools and material I forgot I had. If anyone still has ideas it would still be great to share them ,we all learn and grow with everones input
Thanks gang


----------

