# Proper blade choice cutting plexiglass



## mtenterprises (Jan 10, 2011)

It is not often I come on here seeking advice but i am considering doing some scrollsawing in colored plexiglass or lexon. So I was wondering what might be the best blade for doing this? I know that scrollsaw speed is a major factor because you maybe doing more melting than cutting and I also know there are tricks to keep this from happening but I'm talking here about what might be a good blade to start. Other considerations to take into account; material thickness - let's say 1/8" to 1/4". I have 2 scrollsaws - #1 single speed 18" runs at 1720 rpm/spm not variable and #2 is an old spring tension "C" frame model that runs at less than 1720 rpm/spm right now. This one I can change the pulley on to lower the rpm/spm. So does anyone out there have any suggestions for blades, the most important thing? I'll also take any tips you have to offer since I'm not omnipotent in this area.

MIKE


----------



## kepy (Mar 5, 2012)

My cutting of plexiglass was done with the same blades I use for wood. Changed the size depending on the type of cut. For fairly straight cuts a #7. I use mostly reverse tooth blades and had no problem. The one thing I did do was put masking tape on before drawing the cut lines to prevent the meltback. Most of my cutting was done on either 1/8 or 1/4" plexi.


----------



## CharleyL (Mar 10, 2009)

I agree with Kepy on the blade choice, but would add to cut it slow enough that the blade friction doesn't melt the cut. It takes time to cut with a scroll saw and get good results. If you want clear edges, experimenting with waving a propane torch over the edge. It will melt the edge surface and turn it clear. This is tricky and takes quite a bit of practice to learn how fast the torch needs to be moved. Don't try this on your project until you have mastered it on scrap. A little to slow and you will destroy the piece, but do it right and the result is beautiful.

Charley


----------



## BonPacific (Jan 22, 2016)

I've heard reports that cutting slower can increase the heat generated, since the blade is in contact with the plastic much longer. I usually cut my plexi on the band saw, a lot less heat in general, even with a dull blade, and it does a nice job on the cut.


----------



## sawdust703 (Jul 6, 2014)

From one scroll sawyer to another, I would use a #3 polar blade. Slow your speed down some. I've have better luck w/blue painters tape on both sides of the cut. Use the 1 1/2" tape. It gives ya more support on both sides, & helps to prevent cracking of the Plexiglas in the thinner material. Remember, the faster your blade speed will just melt the Plexiglas, & too slow will crack it. Practice on some scrap to adjust your speed.


----------



## mtenterprises (Jan 10, 2011)

Ahhh, interesting information. Thanks guys.


----------



## mtenterprises (Jan 10, 2011)

Thought I'd try tinkering with cutting some plexiglass today so I dug out some scraps. I had a used Olson #9 double skip tooth blade om the old "C" frame saw. The first try was without tape, of course I knew what would happen and it did, it melted back together. Then I put one layer of tape on each side and that was the best I have ever cut plexiglass. No melting, which I knew would happen with the tape, but the edge was very smooth. I did this in both 1/4" and 1/8" and despite the broad spaced teeth they both cut very well. Next try will be with a finer tooth blade. I'd have posted pictures but clear plexiglass doesn't photograph well. Thanks for the advice guys!


----------



## rick1955 (Jun 26, 2014)

http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/scroll_saw_blades.htm
Olson sells several blades for plastic and acrylic.
Open the link and search the page for the terms plastic and acrylic.


----------

