# Looking at picking up a Grizzly G1022



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

Hi Guys,

Long time lurker, first time (I THINK) poster. Casually looking at upgrading my craftsman table saw (137.218020) and came across a Grizzly G1022 on craigslist. I say "casually" because budget is a big deal here. I'm not a heavy woodworker, just a homeowner who likes to do things himself. My biggest complaints about the craftsman is that it's light, flimsy and the table is tiny. It's also hard to keep the plastic fence straight when getting ready to cut. I'm just looking for something that's a bit more heavy duty, more metal parts and with a bigger table.

This G1022 could be about 20 years old - I didn't think to look at the date on the motor. It's a G1022 model, with no other model markings. Seems to be a cast iron table with webbed iron extensions. The table is relatively flat, although the extensions are a little bit higher (maybe 1/16th"?) than the table. Maybe the extensions could be adjusted, not sure. When checking with my straight edge, I could get my .016 feeler gauge under it at some points, but my straight edge was a bit too big to be sure that it was anything other than the extensions causing the gap. I should have brought a smaller straight edge. Other than that, it probably needs a new belt, there are a few dings in it, top is rusty (but not pitted - i'm sure I could clean it up. I have a lot of experience with cast iron pans, so I know surface rust when I see it) and the wheel to angle the blade is a little, uh "wonky." It seems to angle the blade with no issues, but it was probably hit at some point and is a little bent - it doesn't turn nice and smooth. The wheel to raise/lower the blade turned smooth with no issues.

I ran it and it ran pretty well - only a little vibration, which i'm almost sure was due to the old belt on it. It's been sitting in the garage (detached from the house) for a lot of years and the guy said it hasn't been used for a few years. He said his father "made cabinets" with it (never said he was a "cabinet maker," though) and that they most recently made large tables on it for making wine. (not sure why he thought that was so relevant, but he kept saying that)

I offered him $100 and he countered with $150. I countered with $125 (before I went to see the saw) and he accepted. After checking out the saw, I'm on the fence. I'll mostly be ripping plywood or boards to make drawers, shelves and things like that. Nothing furniture grade.

So 1) How big a deal are the shortcomings 2) even with those shortcomings, is it worth $125? I can't see myself spending more than that even in the future, so how does it compare to whatever else I can get in that range?

-J


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I guess I'm seeing a fence in the one picture. If it has the fence I would say it is definitely worth 125 and is an improvement over the craftsman. The wings should be easily adjusted. It should have a 1 1/2 horse motor that is a huge improvement over the craftsman universal motor. I would say you are right about the belt. After sitting for a while mine will shake a bit until the belt warms up and loses the memory bends. It may not even need a new belt, just to be run for a good while.


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, the fence was put on upside down when I got there. The guy was like "yeah, I guess you can flip that around." Definitely a 1.5HP motor.

Now here's an interesting thing that came up - a G1023 just came up for sale. No pictures and I can't even tell how far the guy is from me (i've asked). Asking $200OBO. If I could get the 1023 for close to my budget AND it's in good shape, how much better of a machine am I looking at? He also has some other gear i'm interested in, so I'm thinking I could work a pretty good deal - better than $200. Then again, for $200, maybe it was in a flood or a house fire - doesn't seem plausible that a good-condition cabinet saw is going for $200OBO.

-J


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> So 1) How big a deal are the shortcomings 2) even with those shortcomings, is it worth $125?


1) What shortcomings?? A wonky hand wheel? Not a real biggie as far as I can tell.
2) Yes

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I will point out that the 1022 is right tilt, which is not a big deal. It just means if you want to cut smallish pieces at an angle you will need to do it with the fence in the left side of the blade. I thought it looked like the fence was upside down, but I couldn't figure out how.
For the woodworking you described, the 1022 should me more than you'd need. With the 1022 you'll get more power, but I'm not sure you need that. The 1023 is likely much older.


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

I may have answered my own question here about the 1022 vs the 1023. I really like the idea of the improved dust collection of the 1023. All things equal (condition, price), the 1023 seems like the only obvious choice - hands down. . .until you get to the weight. . .

The 1023 is a full 200lbs heavier than the 1022. Assuming I manage to get it into the basement without killing myself and/or a friend, i'd love the 1023. But it's going in my basement. The stairs insidethe house are narrow with a tight turn at the bottom and the stairs from outside are steep and deep.

How much can I dismantle either one of these saws for transportation? No matter which one I get (assuming it's working well), it will probably outlive my stay in this house. That means I'll have to move it again. I've already moved my grandfather's 60 year old Walker Turner drill press twice (once from my grandfather's house to my last house and then again when we bought this house). Both times I said it would be the last time I moved it and I'm pretty sure the last time is responsible for my buddy's severe back problems!

-J


----------



## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

That fence, with the pipe rails, is a clone of the Delta/Rockwell (both contractor and Unisaw), and if it were me, I'd figure on changing that out for a T-square style fence as one of my first improvements. I truly despise those OEM fences.

Yes, the webbed iron extensions can be adjusted. But I can't get within 6 feet of one of those without pinching my fingers when I move the fence or miter gauge. By the way, that 1.5 hp motor probably can be rewired to run off 220, if you have it (a very easy task). You'll find a real improvement in performance. The 1023 is of course a 220 volt machine.

Don't let the weight of the saw stymie you. Hire 4 or 5 local teenagers to do the heavy lifting for you. They'll scramble to outdo each other in macho strength displays. On the other hand, I've moved heavy loads down basement stairs by hooking up a comealong to a handy anchor point, and skidding it down planks laid on the stairs. Did the same thing in reverse.


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

Upgrading the fence is a future option, but I'm not at a point right now where i'd notice the difference. As for hiring local kids to bring it in the basement? I'd rather carefully get it down there with a buddy who I know isn't going to ruin it or my house! I can take the Stand, motor and wings off for sure. That would make it easier. Just not sure the 1023 is as easy to take apart.

The guy with the 1023 hasn't gotten back to me yet, so who knows. I'm leaning more and more towards the 1022. Any other 1022 owners want to chime in with experience? Good/bad? Some photos of your saws set up?

-J


----------



## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

On the questioning of lightening the load:

In either case you should be able to remove the fence, fence rail(s), and table extensions.

A true cabinet saw will have the trunnion mounted to the frame so you could remove the saw's table.

A contractor's type saw has the trunnion mounted to the saw's table. This means you can't remove the table top. Also saw alignment is harder on this type.

To me an old saw in good shape is the best shape. It seems that older items were just made better.

I have had a right tip saw and some cuts are risky / unsafe. I think the G1023 is left tilt and that would be a clear deciding factor for me. Of course I do a lot of woodworking.


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

> To me an old saw in good shape is the best shape. It seems that older items were just made better.


That's why I'm looking at used. Other than some VERY old craftsman and smaller (and older) Deltas, I'm not seeing anything even TWICE this price. To start getting into this type of saw (The 1022) from brands like Delta, Jet, etc, you are looking at $400+. Not a ridiculous amount for a saw, obviously, but still more than i'm going to spend.

As for new saws, it just doesn't appeal to me. I only see jobsite saws around for anything less than $1000 and, although the QUALITY would be upgraded, I don't see it being a feature upgrade from what I have already.

I'm already thinking of space utilization and I think that, by adding a larger saw like the 1022 (or 1023 if it ends up being amazing), I can actually regain some more space. Assuming I can get that cast iron table nice and flat, I could use a piece of 1/2" plywood with a lip around it to sit on top of it (with the blade down) protecting it and creating a workspace to use for small things. (like electronics - nothing heavy that would damage the saw!)

-James


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

$125 looks to be a good deal if the fence is included. The fence isn't great, but it has a strong motor and the classic Taiwanese contractor saw design. With a good blade and good setup, it should perform well.


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

Yep - fence is included. It was just used wrong. Not sure why he had it upside down.

I'll probably end up with it. I wouldn't normally obsess over something that's only $125, but it's (physically) a HUGE purchase. I'm not in the business of reselling things, (ask my wife about the THREE 24 channel Audio Mixing consoles I have in the garage) so this will either stay with me until the end or be given away to a friend or family member if I ever upgrade.

So now comes the restoration. While I have it all apart, what should I be cleaning up, lubricating, etc? I'll want to clean the top (and wax it, i guess?). How about the fence? Any maintenance there? Motor? I'm probably going to put it back together on lockable casters so I can move it around the tiny shop if I have to.

-J


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

And also dust collection. . .any tips?


----------



## webwood (Jul 2, 2009)

I bought the "z" series of this saw 20 some years ago . 2hp, upgrade shopfox fence. it has handled everything I've thrown at it. Dust hood fits underneath.


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

Wow - you bought the Z series 20 years ago? I wonder how old this one is. I was skeptical when he said it was the G1022 and said that there was no additional model information on it, but there definitely wasn't any extension like Z. So maybe it's even older than yours. When did they come out with the G1022?

-J


> I bought the "z" series of this saw 20 some years ago . 2hp, upgrade shopfox fence. it has handled everything I ve thrown at it. Dust hood fits underneath.
> 
> - webwood


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> I'll probably end up with it.


Might not if you keep going back and forth on it… OWWM rule #5 might just bite you (which is probably what happened to the 1023). It should already be sitting in your basement… until then, you are just picking your peaches before they are all good and fuzzed up (old Andy Taylor reference 

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

Very true - But I inquired about the 1023 as soon as I saw it and haven't heard anything yet.

-J

PS - Nice screen name. Unix/Linux administration was my day job for the past 17 years. I just went into Network Security this January.



> I ll probably end up with it.
> 
> Might not if you keep going back and forth on it… OWWM rule #5 might just bite you (which is probably what happened to the 1023). It should already be sitting in your basement… until then, you are just picking your peaches before they are all good and fuzzed up (old Andy Taylor reference
> 
> ...


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

I haven't seen a grizzly yet that didn't have the date on it somewhere. I bet yours is late 80's or early 90's.
You can buy a dust hood that fits underneath with a 4" connection for dust collection, make something to block off the area around the motor to help with collection, but it must be removable for angled cutting.


----------



## webwood (Jul 2, 2009)

mine is 94 or so. there is a pic in my workshop photos-still running strong. that saw is from the same time range. my guess would be 92 or 3 .


----------



## Shadowrider (Feb 2, 2015)

That 1022 looks to be in nice shape. I'd say it's worth his $125 asking price easily. Add some time and a few dollars replacing bearings, then replace the fence with a really nice one and you'll have a nice saw for well under $500 that'll blow that Crapsman away.

The 1023 is a superior saw that'll last a lifetime and I'd bet it needs a lot more work based on it's price. Either will do fine work if setup properly.


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

Thanks, guys! So I officially "own" the 1022. I can't pick it up until I have a truck, but I went over there tonight and paid the guy. He was very grateful and said that his dad (who was the owner of the saw - now retired) was very happy it was going to a good home. He called tonight to say that he couldn't find a date on the motor (I checked too and the last digit in the year was either left off or rubbed off - very strange. it said "Date: 199) but that he had two other inquiries about the saw - one guy was willing to come tonight to get it. I didn't really believe that (the saw has been sitting on CL for a month - what are the chances that he has two more offers the moment i'm interested), but I liked the guy and wanted the saw. I also felt like I could have talked him down another $25 to $100 but wanted to be fair. You guys said $125 was a fair deal for the saw and he had been pretty good about it. So i'm $125 lighter and now i'm in the basement cleaning out a space for this saw!

Serial Number on the saw is: 049915
Serial Number on motor is: 001971
Manual said it was WRITTEN in 1986 and REVISED in 1996 - So I'm guessing this is from 1996

Lots on the saw needs to be cleaned and lubricated. Should be a neat little project. What's a good general purpose blade for this (for ripping and cross cutting) as well as a "starter" dado set?

-J

PS - of course this means that the guy with the 1023 will get back to me tonight with pictures and it will be in mint condition and he'll take $125 for it! lol


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

And, as predicted, the guy with the 1023 just got back to me. He's over an hour away and the Delta belt/disc sander, Jet Dust collector and the Grizzly G1023 are all gone. All he has left is the Craftsman bandsaw that I wasn't keen on anyway. Fate! 

-J


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

The date of that saw should be right on the front where it says grizzly. I think you will really be happy with it. I'm very happy with my GO575 that I bought new in 2006. It's a very similar saw to yours. I like Freud Diablo blades. I have a ripping blade and a crosscut, but you can use some thing like this 40 tooth combo blade. They cut well and they're not too expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/D1040X-Diablo-10-Inch-40-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435716619&sr=8-1&keywords=Freud+Diablo+40+10


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

That Freud is actually the blade that's on my craftsman right now. Big step up from the crap blade that came with it - just making sure i'm on the right track!

-J


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

It will probably seem like a different blade on that grizzly.


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

So i'll be picking this up this weekend and probably dismantling it at least a little for transportation. I'll try to get the fence rails, extensions, motor and stand off. While I have it broken down that much, i'm going to try to clean it up a bit before I put it all back together. Just have a few questions. . .

1) Assuming it's together with whatever hardware came with it, is there anything I should be bringing to pick it up other than a small socket set and a cordless drill (with #2 Phillips bit)?

2) On cleaning the surface rust from the top - what should I be using? I've used several methods for cast iron pans (including 0000 steel wool when it was really bad), but since this isn't "food grade," I figure I may have easier options. I will be putting butcher's wax on it once i'm done.

3) What should I be using (if anything) to lubricate parts on the fence?

Thanks in advance. Really excited about this!

-James


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

The saw is in my basement! Took 3 guys to get it up on the truck (couldn't detach anything while I was at the seller's house - brought a socket set and some pliers, but the pliers wouldn't hold the bolt heads!) and then two guys once we got back to my house and were able to dismantle it. I had to take the motor and stand off just to git it through the basement door but it was pretty easy to get down there with that stuff off. The motor was HEAVY and the stand, which I didn't think was that heavy, added a bunch of weight as well.

Things that surprised me when I got there today: "Oh, here are some blades!" and "Here's this wood table thing that my dad said goes with it." (it was a crosscut sled) He also had a home made wooden "blade guard" that would cover the blade when not in use (because he didn't use the actual blade guard. The blades (that I haven't checked out yet) were in home made "cases" of 1/4" plywood squares on either side with a bold through the middle. Nothing super special, but just the fact that he made these little things suggested that he was at least a little legit and probably used the hell out of this saw (and took care of it). So i'm pretty glad.

So i've got the saw back on the stand. I'm going to clean it up a bit before I put everything back together. The fence doesn't glide smooth at all and the handle is a bit rusted/squeaky. I'm going to take the mechanism apart to clean it, but is there anything I should be doing to lubricate the track the fence goes on? Also, for the top, what would everyone use to clean it up before waxing? Lots of surface rust and staining i'd love to get off of there!

-J


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

You can use a random orbit sander on the top with some 220 grit before you wax. Wipe it clean with some mineral spirits before you wax. That's what I've done with mine when I used to get condensation. Congrats on getting it down there.


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

I feel bad doubting, but using a sander just seems scary. You don't think 220grit would scratch up the top? If not, that seems like a hell of an easy way to clean up the top!! If so, i'd love to try that on the table of my grandfather's old Walker Turner drill press that i'm shaping up as well!

-James


> You can use a random orbit sander on the top with some 220 grit before you wax. Wipe it clean with some mineral spirits before you wax. That s what I ve done with mine when I used to get condensation. Congrats on getting it down there.
> 
> - firefighterontheside


----------



## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

It will leave some swirl marks, but you won't feel them. It is cast iron after all. Kinda depends on the severity of the rust. I've heard of people using scotch bright pads and wd40. A bit less abrasive. You can do just like when sanding wood and go,thru the grits and finish with a higher number to make the swirls less evident.


----------



## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

I agree with firefighter. Though the swirl marks will be visible, they will otherwise be undetectable. Won't affect cutting of wood in any way. Do be sure to wipe it down thoroughly before waxing, though, as the iron dust can stain wood.


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

I've sanded the cast iron tops of many saws, jointers, DPs, bandsaws, etc. Spray with WD40, sand for a while, wipe the grime off, and go at it again. Change the paper as needed, which is usually frequently, depending on the brand. I've even gone as low as 80 grit for really crudded up tables…..just work your back to 220 (or finer) for smoother finish before stopping. You'll be surprised at the progress you'll make in 60 minutes.

It's nice that they gave you some blades, but the odds are high that none are really good blades for woodworking. You'll optimize your investment and performance if you drop ~ $30 for a decent Freud Diablo or Irwin Marples (not Marathon) blade.


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

I'm not a big fan of using abrasives or acids on table tops… that is one place you really don't want to remove material, and if done too aggressively, you can damage it and cause shallow spots. Evaporust or electrolysis works good at getting rid of the rust without removing any of the good metal. If you don't want the hassle using those methods, a good scrape with a razor to get most of the gunk/rust off followed by various applications of solvents and a scotch brite pad cleans them up pretty good and won't damage the surface.










Cheers,
Brad


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

Me again! Still have the saw apart cleaning it, but ran into a Shop Fox Classic fence and rails with Woodstock's Yellow Board Buddies on it for $210. Is this a good price? Bad price? Great price? I was only passively looking and haven't even determined that I don't like the stock fence yet. (haven't used the table saw) Apparently this was on a Grizzly 1023RLW. Should it bolt right onto my 1022?

Such a tough decision because I don't expect to have the saw together until the end of the summer or fall. I only want to make the purchase if it's a "you won't find a better deal than that" scenario. It's tough to justify a $210 fence on a saw you spent only $125 on BEFORE you've determined you don't like the stock fence!










Thanks in advance!
-James


----------



## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Grizzly gets $275 for that fence including the rails. If your rails are the round tube type, you will need to replace them. Whatever fence you end up with, I'd ditch the round tube rails (and the fence that goes with them) in a heartbeat. The Board Buddies are okay (I have a set), but I can't remember the last time I used them.


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

$210 is a bit high IMO. It's a nice fence, and it might bolt right on. I'm not sure how much the Board Buddy's add, but $150-$175 would be plenty for both IMO. I don't see many decent fences for sale used in my area, but I hear ya about the fence price vs saw price….total of $335 for saw and fence is a bit high, but not awful. It will be a notable upgrade….just not sure you'd get that for the package used if you were to resell it. You might be able to sell the stock fence for $40 or $50 bucks on Ebay.


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

> Grizzly gets $275 for that fence including the rails. If your rails are the round tube type, you will need to replace them. Whatever fence you end up with, I d ditch the round tube rails (and the fence that goes with them) in a heartbeat. The Board Buddies are okay (I have a set), but I can t remember the last time I used them.


Yeah - that's why I was casually looking. Although I haven't cleaned and lubricated it yet, playing with the existing rail I just can't figure out how the heck i'd ever get something to glide smooth. Maybe i'd be surprised.


> $210 is a bit high IMO. It s a nice fence, and it might bolt right on. I m not sure how much the Board Buddy s add, but $150-$175 would be plenty for both IMO. I don t see many decent fences for sale used in my area, but I hear ya about the fence price vs saw price….total of $335 for saw and fence is a bit high, but not awful. It will be a notable upgrade….just not sure you d get that for the package used if you were to resell it. You might be able to sell the stock fence for $40 or $50 bucks on Ebay.


Hadn't thought about being able to sell the stock fence on ebay. Can't imagine anyone would want to buy it, but then again - who knows. As for the Shop Fox, I know Grizzly gets $275 but i've never seen them used before in the wild. If I could get them for $210 all day long I'd just wait until I'm ready for it (few months down the road). If it were $100, i'd snatch it up right now. So it's a tough choice!

-James


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Ive got those board buddies on my G1023 saw and IMO theyre a pain in the a$$. They get in the way of your push stick when trying to feed stock through. Getting them to the right height is also a pain. Good score on the 1022! For rust removal you can also try pouring on some TiteBond 2 , letting it dry, and peeling it off. It should take a decent amount of rust with it.


----------



## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Congrats on the new/old saw. I have the 0444Z contractor's saw with the Shop Fox fence. Great combo, and will be all I'll ever need.
As has been said, good blades, tune well, don't get obsessive about exotic waxes on the cast iron. Johnson's will do just fine.
The dust shroud drops in the bottom of the base. I duct taped mine in place. Do NOT totally enclose the back of the opening (where the motor hangs). A dust collector must have make up air to allow it to work properly.
Use the splitter if you value your body parts.
Bill


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

Thanks. Still haven't heard back about availability, but the fence has been listed for over a week. When I'm ready (maybe this weekend) maybe I'll offer him $150 and see if it flies. Have you guys seen fences like this come up for reasonable prices used from time to time? Would I be missing an opportunity if I skipped on it? I realize $210 isn't much of a discount, but it's $65 cheaper than new and it's the first one i've seen listed.

-James


----------



## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

> Thanks. Still haven t heard back about availability, but the fence has been listed for over a week. When I m ready (maybe this weekend) maybe I ll offer him $150 and see if it flies. Have you guys seen fences like this come up for reasonable prices used from time to time? Would I be missing an opportunity if I skipped on it? I realize $210 isn t much of a discount, but it s $65 cheaper than new and it s the first one i ve seen listed.
> 
> -James
> 
> - mingus2112


$210 in a new fence buys you a pretty good Delta T2 type fence, which is really a scaled back version of what the Shop Fox is. Others may see good fences come along, but most that I see are attached to a saw. Even though it's not a great deal, it is the best fence I can think of at the current asking price, assuming it's in really nice shape….it's also about the most major upgrade you can make to the saw, and is something you could bring with you to your next saw (which means maybe selling the stock fence isn't a such a great idea!) Good luck!


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> Have you guys seen fences like this come up for reasonable prices used from time to time?


Around my part of the woods, yes (no idea where you are though). I frequently see used Biesemeyers pop up in the $100-$150+/- range. You have time on your side… use it to your advantage.

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## mingus2112 (May 9, 2013)

> I frequently see used Biesemeyers pop up in the $100-$150+/- range. You have time on your side… use it to your advantage.


Thanks. $100-$150 WITH the rails to mount it on? That's what's included here. I'll chill for awhile and see how long this sits. It's been up almost 2 weeks now. Maybe after a few weeks i'll offer him $110 if it's still listed.

-J


----------



## benchbuilder (Sep 10, 2011)

Hi mingus, i have the 1022 and have used it for some 23 yrs now. As for the fence update, i got a delta system from walmart off a display saw. They didnt have a fence to sell me so the guy said if i removed the fence from the display delta saw i could have it for $100 The fence and rails all fit my grizzly except for one hole and i drilled that one. As for dust colllection, i enclosed the bottom with 3/16" plywood on the inside of the bottom stand with weather striping. Painted it green and looks fine, I use a trash can and shop vac, to collect the dust, it all works for me. So, the 1022 is a good saw if its been taken care of.


----------

