# My New Radial Arm Router



## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

My project website: *TF Workshop*

I recently bought a 1950's Dewalt radial arm saw, with the saw mount damaged (it was way cheap). I decided to mount a 1/2 router to the carriage - the set-up is shown below. I figure once I get a fence on it, I'm going to basically have a manual wood milling machine.

I know I'll use it for quick material removal. I think it might end up being really useful. I already had the router, so for under $50, I have an experiment going.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

I like it.


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

Me too.


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## pjones46 (Mar 1, 2011)

Great repurpose. Very innovative.


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## dawsonbob (Aug 5, 2013)

Not bad. Not bad at all. Pretty darn nice, in fact.


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## MinnesotaMarty (Jan 25, 2015)

TTF,

You beat me to the punch. I came across a Radial Arm Saw very inexpensive and in really good shape. So, I bought it and had the same idea. I have a Rockwell router that I rarely use and thought that the two combined might give me some additional options. 
Looks like you fabricated the "router holder". 
I just moved and am in the process of resetting up my shop so the overhead wood milling machine might have to be delayed a bit. 
Keep us posted of your progress.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Maybe insert a pin in the T slot and make an overhead pin router?


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

Marty,

Yup - I fabricated the router holder out of white oak, so it would be solid.

Here is a picture from the bottom. Half circle cradle with hose clamps. On the right side of the cradle, I put in a metal tab to lock in the router so it wouldn't spin.










Here is the back. I cut a hole to access the speed control, and it allows some additional airflow.










Good luck with your shop set-up.


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

I will try the pin router idea.


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

Update: I've been using this thing for about 6 months, and I really like it. I use it to cut slots and mortises all the time. I have also ended up using it for regular router functions, like edge rounding. Unlike my router table, I can see the bit and do slight adjustments easily.

I ended up buying another radial arm saw - a larger 1950's DeWalt - as well for $30. I keep a 1/2" dado on it for removing lots of material fast. Between these two tools, my woodworking has gotten a lot more efficient.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Sweet. Wish I had room for one.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

Ya just gotta love creative ingenuity. TTF your awesome!


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

Rick & Bob - thanks.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Always wanted to build an over arm router but never got around to it! 
This is a superior machine you have there now, *really nice work*.


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

Oldnovice, thanks very much for your kind words and encouragement.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

*TTF*, you know that many of the manual production routers use the over arm routers!
Multipe templates, many routers, much production without a CNC.
A shop, I once visited in Wisconsin, has a number of these along with a number of very large 4 spindle routers.


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## Shadowrider (Feb 2, 2015)

That's thinkin outta the box TTF. If it works for you, you go man! I can't see a need for myself but I can see how if you cut a lot of those features it would be just fine.

On second thought you could use it for a poor man's planer if you built a sled!


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Is it possible to mount router into carriage that allows you to TILT motor like the saw did. This would allow for even more profiles with one router bit !
I like you idea, gives new use to old type saws.


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

Yes you could. My mount was broken, so I couldn't do that. But it would make a great addition.


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## splatman (Jul 27, 2014)

I see where this is going:
Old RAS + Router + Brainstorm = Lean mean woodworking machine!


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## braarm (Sep 7, 2015)

Awesome idea, looks like they should be pretty efficient for chewing away wood.

I'm just jealous of you finding awesome tools for that cheap. It's unheard of where I live.


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

I ended up using saw the motor off this thing to make a disc sander: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/118290

You can see where I broke the motor mount ring on the carriage.


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

Update - I use the radial arm router all the time. I've almost abandoned my router table because I like this so much better. Even for simple edge profile routing, I like to be able to see the router bit and have the fine control of the dewalt RAS height adjustment.

Anyway, if you're thinking about one, I would say go for it.


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## teejk02 (Apr 27, 2015)

Great idea…BUT…it conjures up some bad memories for me and the accessory shaft on the old Craftsman RAS's that accepted a router collet (pretty stupid on Sear's part and my part…the machine didn't run at anywhere near the speed needed). Use with care. That bit is fully exposed.


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

The router I'm using takes both 1/4 and 1/2 collets, and has full speed control. I may put a plexiglas plate on it for safety.


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## teejk02 (Apr 27, 2015)

> The router I m using takes both 1/4 and 1/2 collets, and has full speed control. I may put a plexiglas plate on it for safety.
> 
> - TTF


Plexiglass might lessen the functionality (bit changing etc.). Just realize that the bit rotation might want to "spin" the piece (not unlike a piece of metal on a drill press) and when that happens something in the brain says to try to control the situation (rarely with happy results in my experience). I think I'd work on making adjustable clamping jigs where your hands can sit it your pockets! Great idea though.


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

Yup - I'm going to build some clamp-downs into it. I'm using it a lot, and that would make it safer. I'm thinking about fabricating a small stage, so I could clamp a piece and move it with levers.

Thanks for the input.


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## teejk02 (Apr 27, 2015)

> Yup - I m going to build some clamp-downs into it. I m using it a lot, and that would make it safer. I m thinking about fabricating a small stage, so I could clamp a piece and move it with levers.
> 
> Thanks for the input.
> 
> - TTF


Again I applaud your idea and by no means want to discourage you…I'm just somebody that learned the hard way about the dangers of over-arm routing (I would say 99.9% of that was because I was an idiot). In my case I was using a large straight bit on a short piece…the bit "grabbed", the piece spun and my left thumb followed. Luckily it only got the nail but it cut it into 1/8" ribbons…for weeks I got home from work, took a bottle of peroxide, a nail clippers and a needle nose pliers out the deck and "worked on it" (did I mention a few beers)? Just keep that stuff in mind. Now I have to ask…how accurate is your machine on depth…left to right and front to back?


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## teejk02 (Apr 27, 2015)

> Yup - I m going to build some clamp-downs into it. I m using it a lot, and that would make it safer. I m thinking about fabricating a small stage, so I could clamp a piece and move it with levers.
> 
> Thanks for the input.
> 
> - TTF


Again I applaud your idea and by no means want to discourage you…I'm just somebody that learned the hard way about the dangers of over-arm routing (I would say 99.9% of that was because I was an idiot). In my case I was using a large straight bit on a short piece…the bit "grabbed", the piece spun and my left thumb followed. Luckily it only got the nail but it cut it into 1/8" ribbons…for weeks I got home from work, took a bottle of peroxide, a nail clippers and a needle nose pliers out the deck and "worked on it" (did I mention a few beers)? Just keep that stuff in mind. Now I have to ask…how accurate is your machine on depth…left to right and front to back?


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

teejk02 - thanks for your ideas. Don't worry, you can't discourage me - I decide what I want to do, and I do it. People's opinions are fine, but that's all they are.

I don't do pieces "freehand' in this. I use back fence along with the radial arm to always have the wood in solid contact with the back fence. I worked in a machine shop early in my career, so I take a more industrial safety approach.

As for accuracy, it's about as good as I can measure it. The column base plate sits on the deck that I shimmed to be fairly accurate. It's not .005 - but this is wood working, not high-tech parts (my real job). Is less than 1/32" - so say .030" worse case. That's front to back. Side to side is zero. The bit stays in place and I slide the piece along the fence. I did the 5-cut test on the fence to get it perpendicular to the carriage rail.

So as far as I'm concerned, its perfect for woodworking. If I tried to dial it in any tighter, I'd be wasting my time, since expansion due to temperature change between the metal RAS and the wood bench / fence causes plenty of variation.

Thanks again for the focus on safety. I really appreciate it. It's good to know people care.

Be well,
Troy


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

I'm about to venture into one of these as well… A recent purchase landed me with a spare RAS minus the motor (C-man recall thing). While I had to send in the motor and carriage, I did take off and kept the top roller portion of the carriage, so at least I have the sliding mount point to work with. I was thinking about welding up something to hold the router, as I figured it would need to be as strong as possible to prevent flex and other movement. How well does you wood mount work and have you noticed any deflection or other problems because of it?

Cheers,
Brad


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## TTF (Sep 13, 2009)

I don't get any deflection from the wood carriage that I can perceive, nor any other issues. It's very solid - it's made of white oak that I've had for over 25 years.

I use it on most projects I do - say once every couple of weeks - and it's works great. The only down side is that you kind of need 3 hands for cutting in X and Y directions. You have to hold the piece and move the router carriage. I think I'm going to make a simple stage for clamping pieces and moving them forward and back.

Good luck with it.
Troy


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Good to know… Making it out of wood sure would be easier. Maybe I'll try getting a bit creative, and see if I can figure out a way to make it tilt as well. Or maybe I'll just leave that for the next "new and improved" version 

Cheers,
Brad


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## Dont (Feb 9, 2017)

I have not been blessed with such wonderful solid equipment as Dewalt R/A saws but I have found many many Craftsmen just being thrown away. I got three so these are for my radial arm router and extended arm drill press and one for outside lumber handling with the two saws off of the two radial arm saws for panel saw in my woodshed


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## Dont (Feb 9, 2017)

I picked up three radial arm saws dirt cheap and have the router waiting to be mounted. Also I have a small useless drill press which has too shallow a throat so it is challenging to drill far enough into a board. So this I will adapt to one of the radial arms to give me a deeper allowance of cut of holes. I also have an XYZ access vise to use like a milling machine table. I believe this should make all the Radial arms a bit more useful.

I love the smell of good sawdust in the morning.


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## vwankerl (Nov 6, 2016)

Dont:
I would be interested in what you do with the drill/RAS mashup. Hope you post some information about it.


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