# Box making Curved Front Box



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*In the begining there was a raggedy piece of wood*

I haven't been doing too much today apart from tidying up.
You can only shuffle stuff about from one spot to other before boredom sets in.

So I found this piece of wood as I was tidying up and thought I would turn it into some box stock.

It was a bit raggedy but I thought I may be able to get enough timber to make a box.

So as I had jointed it already I simply rolled out my band saw and rule to determine if I could get three slices about 10mm and enough for the base. The timber was 46.8mm thick so I determined I could get 3 x pieces at 14mm and 1 x at 5mm which would give me enough material to make the front back and sides with a base at least.

*Here is the stock.*

Its Camphor Laurel and has a rough life, tickled with a chain saw by the looks and broken off at the other end




























After measuring it up I set up the saw and began cutting.










I wanted to maintain a very accurate cut as I didnt have too much excess to play with so I withdrew it and made the second cut before completing the first, this was done to maintain stability.
Then worked my way through both.










The thickest part in the middle will become one side and the base.

I laid out the re saw work to have a look at what I finished up with.










Then it was simply a matter of ripping suitable widths and then cutting off the rubbish to determine the lengths.










I think I have enough to be able to make a small box.










With that all done I decided to put a new blade on the bandsaw and finished for the day.










Stay tuned for the next progress report


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *In the begining there was a raggedy piece of wood*
> 
> I haven't been doing too much today apart from tidying up.
> You can only shuffle stuff about from one spot to other before boredom sets in.
> ...


You got some real pretty wood from that Rob and nicely cut. Coincidentally, I too use those same small blades on my bandsaw. Very good for cutting small diameter circles.


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## amagineer (Apr 16, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *In the begining there was a raggedy piece of wood*
> 
> I haven't been doing too much today apart from tidying up.
> You can only shuffle stuff about from one spot to other before boredom sets in.
> ...


Anticipation heightens as the plot thickens. Is that a Timber wolf blade?
-don


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *In the begining there was a raggedy piece of wood*
> 
> I haven't been doing too much today apart from tidying up.
> You can only shuffle stuff about from one spot to other before boredom sets in.
> ...


Now that's a bandsaw blade.


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## bfergie (Jan 22, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *In the begining there was a raggedy piece of wood*
> 
> I haven't been doing too much today apart from tidying up.
> You can only shuffle stuff about from one spot to other before boredom sets in.
> ...


You made me smile. Thanks!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *In the begining there was a raggedy piece of wood*
> 
> I haven't been doing too much today apart from tidying up.
> You can only shuffle stuff about from one spot to other before boredom sets in.
> ...


OK guys its confession time,... The band saw blade is not really mine. its from a series of photographs of Hull-Oaks Sawmill that I was looking at in absolute amazement, well worth a look if you are interested in historical technology.

The timber I used is Camphor Laurel a species originating from China and or Japan.
It was introduced into Australia as a shade tree and in of all places Our Botanical gardens.
It was used for commercial extraction of the camphor oil but stopped in the 1920s

As the tree grew unchecked it spread at such a massive rate it started invading large areas and became a declared pest due to its invasive nature of forcing out native growth around it.

Its a timber suitable for interior only and has a natural pestacide in its camphor oil so many blanket boxes were made from them. The timber had exceptionally attractive grain feature and is now sought after for small projects, and if you can get it timber tops for tables.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*The start*

I was looking at RogerBean's fantastic boxes, and as a result of some ongoing messages decided to try one myself

The carcass its self is from recycled materials some pallet slats and the lid and base from an old cupboard I bought at a garage sale for $15.

It was block board and all I was going to do with it was break it down, I told the owner at the time and said if it doesn't get sold I would buy it, well he almost insisted I buy it there and then so I did.

I studied Rogers project again and set to work.

Initially I was going to use MDF for the frame but it was so furry I decided against it.

I cut up a length of timber.










I then used my panel door templates to find a suitable profile that would fit into 90mm width

I had to made a jig which would allow me to mark up everything accurately and quickly










Once marked up it was off to the bandsaw for the initial cut out.










I then I glued each section together individually, I did this thinking I would not be able to finish them properly.










So I made two more templates to finish each section.










That ends the start.


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## Jofa (May 14, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *The start*
> 
> I was looking at RogerBean's fantastic boxes, and as a result of some ongoing messages decided to try one myself
> 
> ...


This is gonna be good. Watching this.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *The start*
> 
> I was looking at RogerBean's fantastic boxes, and as a result of some ongoing messages decided to try one myself
> 
> ...


Yes, what Jofa said


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *The start*
> 
> I was looking at RogerBean's fantastic boxes, and as a result of some ongoing messages decided to try one myself
> 
> ...


I will be enjoying this also…if it has curves it gets my attention.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *The start*
> 
> I was looking at RogerBean's fantastic boxes, and as a result of some ongoing messages decided to try one myself
> 
> ...


This looks like the start of something really interesting Rob.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Dimensions and jigs*

I am jumping ahead here a few steps and provided the dimensions so an appreciation of the size can be achieved.

The original timber stock dimensions were W 400mm D 200mm x H 180mm

These were reduced for the following reasons.

1. I found that the wood veneer I wanted to use was not big enough to complete the work. Critical aspect.
2. I had quite a few problems maintaining a accurate datum point as I finished the three individual curved sections.
3. Natural reduction as the timber was jointed and trued and some defects removed
4. Finally I wanted to cut the box open using my bandsaw 175mm cutting height. Second critical aspect.

Here are some shots of the raw box showing the Dimensions, general arrangement and raised panel templates used.










*The overall parts of the box*










*The back dimensions 360×160mm. *










*The side dimensions 210mm x 160mm .*










*The top front to the curve dimensions 360mm x 297mm.*










Don't be too concerned about the dings, other damage, imperfections and knot holes as the will be filled and veneered over.

Next blog will go back in time to the production of the front and assembly.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Dimensions and jigs*
> 
> I am jumping ahead here a few steps and provided the dimensions so an appreciation of the size can be achieved.
> 
> ...


Those are looking way kool


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## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Dimensions and jigs*
> 
> I am jumping ahead here a few steps and provided the dimensions so an appreciation of the size can be achieved.
> 
> ...


sweet .


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Dimensions and jigs*
> 
> I am jumping ahead here a few steps and provided the dimensions so an appreciation of the size can be achieved.
> 
> ...


Nice.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*preparing the front dry assembly and glue up*

In this part I fabricate the front sides top and bottom do a dry fit up and then glue it all together

*Fabrication of the front*

I did quite a bit of brain squirming trying to figure how I could profile the three laminated parts so they were all the same.

Essentially I gave up and glued the three together into a laminated one piece front.

I lay the parts out on my table saw top so I had a flat surface to work on.
I used the two long ends as datum lines to get everything on one plane and as flat as possible and glued and clamped it.

After letting it dry overnight I then used my Oscillating sander to finish the profile.
As I still had pencil lines from the templates I simply just sanded it down to the lines, inverted it and did the other half.

Now I know its possibly not perfectly symmetrical but its as close as I could get it.

Here is a shot of it dry assembled.
Note: The long wings at the ends have not been cut off yet










*Fabrication of the sides and back*

The fabrication of the sides and back presented no problems, Joint them, thickness them cut them to length, match them up, biscuit joint them together then them dry and then trim them down to size.

I staggered the sides and the back to keep the joints separated.










*Fabrication of the top and base or bottom.*

As I said at the beginning I used block board for the lid and bottom.
It was originally 19 mm so I ran it through the thicknesser to get it down to about 15 mm .

Using the raised panel template again I cut out the profile for the top aand bottom.

The lid or top is a flush butt joint.
The bottom or base is a tongue and groove fit.










The bottom actually a raised panel upside down, I cut a reverse panel profile on the edges and then matching slots in the front sides and back.

It took a bit of fiddling at sanding to get it to fit in and satisfy the clearances for movement.

I dry fitted everything together and it all looked good, it matched up OK so it was glue up time.



















A lesson was learned here….do not throw off cuts in the bin as you may possibly need them to assist in clamping!

As luck would have it the rubbish PU did not occur early, god knows what the neighbours thought seeing me searching through the bin and pulling out small curved bits of wood!!


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## BobWemm (Feb 15, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *preparing the front dry assembly and glue up*
> 
> In this part I fabricate the front sides top and bottom do a dry fit up and then glue it all together
> 
> ...


Rob, That is coming together really well.
I can just see you bum up in the bin. LOL. Been there.
Cant wait to see it finished.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *preparing the front dry assembly and glue up*
> 
> In this part I fabricate the front sides top and bottom do a dry fit up and then glue it all together
> 
> ...


Looks good so far Rob.
Are you going to double veneer the layer built front?
My fear is that the layers may telegraph through the finish veneer. That can be reduced by first veneering with a base veneer at opposing grain angle (in this case vertical) using a cheaper veneer.
Great project, I'll be following.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *preparing the front dry assembly and glue up*
> 
> In this part I fabricate the front sides top and bottom do a dry fit up and then glue it all together
> 
> ...


Paul,

I had not considered it may show through like railway tracks.

I will have to consider it, originally I was going to pre veneer everything then glue it all together and just do the edges later but had reservations about two glue lines weakening everything and something failing.

Especially if the "junk" timber I used wants to warp, bow or cup.

A serious risk when trying to make something way out of left field with recycled timber.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *preparing the front dry assembly and glue up*
> 
> In this part I fabricate the front sides top and bottom do a dry fit up and then glue it all together
> 
> ...


It's looking very good so far Robert. A nice tutorial too.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *preparing the front dry assembly and glue up*
> 
> In this part I fabricate the front sides top and bottom do a dry fit up and then glue it all together
> 
> ...


Great looking bax


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Cutting the box open*

Well so much for wanting to cut the box open with my bandsaw.

I realised the sides were too big and the curved face blew it out to 297mm.

So it was onto the table saw. there goes Critical priority no 2

I fitted the thinnest kerf blade I had and away I went.

Cutting a box open using various planes is usually a candidate for a mess, let alone making a series of cuts as I raised the blade, but I managed to get it started and finished at the same point miracles do occur!




























Next its onto the veneering procedure.


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## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Cutting the box open*
> 
> Well so much for wanting to cut the box open with my bandsaw.
> 
> ...


*Beautiful* piece of work mate! What is the wood? Without veneer, just stain and finish it'd be gorgeous to me. What lid fastener will you use if any? Thanks for the view.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Cutting the box open*
> 
> Well so much for wanting to cut the box open with my bandsaw.
> 
> ...


Hello Russell

Don't be disappointed but, the front sides and back are a recycled pallet and its common garden variety Pine.

The top/lid and bottom/base are both block board possibly Tasmanian Oak from a $15 recycled cupboard.

However I will be going up market with the Veneer and finishing trim so stay tuned.

Because of its size and mass, the hinges and locks will have to be a bit more up market to those of my small decorative ones, and they are something I haven't really thought too much about just yet.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Cutting the box open*
> 
> Well so much for wanting to cut the box open with my bandsaw.
> 
> ...


This is coming out great Robert. I'm looking forward to seeing the veneering process.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Cutting the box open*
> 
> Well so much for wanting to cut the box open with my bandsaw.
> 
> ...


Looking good Robert.


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## harrywho (Jul 20, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Cutting the box open*
> 
> Well so much for wanting to cut the box open with my bandsaw.
> 
> ...


I too am looking forward to the veneering process, it looks great so far!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Veneer work stalled SOS need help*

I have two pieces of Tasmanian Blackwood veneer available to use on the Curved front Box



















The problem is guess I do not know how to go about it,

I don't want to waste the veneer by cutting it up incorrectly but in the same I don't fully understand how to select a suitable piece.

Does it start from the front wrap around the left and right sides and meet at the back as a join?
Next what determines the aspect for the top of the Lid?

You obviously don't "just slap it on!" without some consideration to grain flow.

I can only assume it commences at the most attractive face and flows away?
Meaning you would select a balanced front image and then have it disappearing or vanishing to the back.

I mulled over whether or not you use both pieces, but again it all became too hard and I decided to have a beer and think about it.

Wishing I would hopefully get an inspiration so I had a beer but no inspiration appeared, I did however feel a bit more relaxed.

But still no magical answer.

To hell with it I thought and will wait for another day, then I had a sudden thought maybe, just maybe there is a LJ with the answer to it or a possible solution that they may like to provide me with?

Any thoughts?

Meanwhile I thought that I would commence flattening the veneer ready for use, but even that is on hold due to not knowing which sections to use

I don't often get stuck but it looks like history has been made and I need to ask for help.

*Facts:*
The veneer I have available is Tasmanian Blackwood, its in 2 x sheets/strips 2.4m x 200mm x (I assume 0.6mm) so there is plenty of it but there are the typical splits extending up to 200mm from each end.


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## BobWemm (Feb 15, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer work stalled SOS need help*
> 
> I have two pieces of Tasmanian Blackwood veneer available to use on the Curved front Box
> 
> ...


Rob, I have never done veneer work but for my 2 bobs worth I would start with the wavy section, just up from the bottom of the photos and use that for the front. IMHO. that is best part. Then I would use the lowest piece for the left side of the box and continue wrapping around the right side and rear I would make the join on the L/H rear corner.
Like I said, IMHO.

Best of luck,
Bob. PS, I would have had a couple of beers.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer work stalled SOS need help*
> 
> I have two pieces of Tasmanian Blackwood veneer available to use on the Curved front Box
> 
> ...


If the two pieces are in sequence you can get matches at all four corners by using both pieces. The choice of layout is an artistic one however and will ultimately be up to you.

How are you planning to apply the veneer to the curve (or the flats for that matter)? If you are using PVA glue you will need a matching caul and some rubbery pad material to clamp with. You don't need cauls or clamps at all of course with hot hide glue as you can hammer curved surfaces but I wouldn't recommend a curve as a place to start learning about HHG. ..... 

I'm sure you have it all planned out. I'll be watching for your results.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer work stalled SOS need help*
> 
> I have two pieces of Tasmanian Blackwood veneer available to use on the Curved front Box
> 
> ...


This will be a great learning experience for you Robert and well as for those of us who also haven't got a clue. I'll be looking forward to seeing how you handle it. I feel confident judging by your other work that you will find a good solution.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer work stalled SOS need help*
> 
> I have two pieces of Tasmanian Blackwood veneer available to use on the Curved front Box
> 
> ...


OK I have spent hours trolling information on the net and slept on it all restlessly I might add.

This is what I intend to do.

1 Apply a featureless finishing veneer to the front faces and top of the lid. This is to ensure that the profile of the laminations do not transmit through.

2. Make come card template profiles of the front sides and back ant then shuffle them around the two pieces of veneer sheets in an attempt to produce a "perfect" match.

3. Make a mirror image profile caul of the front curved surface and then use some anti vibration material from an air conditioning company I used to work next to as a mediun in between then clamp evert thing together, sound a bit crude but I hope it works.

4. The base veneer will serve two purposes a, it will prove my method and b, remove the possibility regarding profile marks transmitting through.

If it dosn't work I have not cionsumed any featured veneer.

The glue I will use will be Titebond III as from reading last night it will provide a suitable result.

I have hide glue and will do a test run on a small sample which I want to use to perfect the final trim, that in itself is also creating concerns as Tasmanian Blackwood is recommended for bending but the preliminary results yesterday were very disappointing to me.

I will have to message rogerbean again and ask some more detailed information as to how to go about it.
If that is unclear have a look at Rogers Shaped front walnut Burl Man Box as a guide as to what I have possibly foolishly taken on.

Comfort Zone: I feel like I have positioned myself over a cliff held by my big toe!

However I will get there though even if I have to stop and go do something else meanwhile to rebuild my confidence.

Thanks for the support and guidance.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer work stalled SOS need help*
> 
> I have two pieces of Tasmanian Blackwood veneer available to use on the Curved front Box
> 
> ...


Do you know this trick? It will give you, as Gene says, a "no end in sight" match on all four corners. Of course it works just as well on sequenced veneer as on the resawn solid wood in Gene's blog.

Sounds like you are off on n adventure.

A couple of references.

Hammer veneering

An example of a hammered curved surface


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## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer work stalled SOS need help*
> 
> I have two pieces of Tasmanian Blackwood veneer available to use on the Curved front Box
> 
> ...


Good luck! We're all cheering for you. Can't wait for the next installment. . .


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Veneer work recommences*

Well after my brain methane discharge I spent the rest of the evening and early morning considering my options.

First up I must thank all those who provided all the feedback.

You would not think a simple task could stump you completely.

Thank You all.

So with renewed vigour and confidence bright and early I made some cardboard templates to get the veneer dilemma on a roll.

Out with the squares and measured off two strips using some craft cardboard I use as lining backs.



















Then set to ensuring I had enough overlap and set to marking out the sections I wanted to use










They are a bit hard to see but I have matched the templates up as accurately as possible
the left or right rear edge will be reproduced across the two swatches.

The lid top being so big will have to be joined at the back edge to maintain the effect

The chalk shows the approximate cut lines with the furthest right hand edge of both "bookmatched" to flow from one sheet to the other, or that's my intention.










*Veneering Pressing*

I cut the sections ready to go into the veneer press.

After dusting it off I then added the veneer sections firstly spraying them with a secret formula to soften them and added paper towel in between each piece.

Put the top on added the washers spacers and nuts and clamped them up

A bit like tensioning a cylinder head tightening them up at opposing threads and the with a spanner give them all a final tweak, its simply a matter of applying even pressure with your hand as the torque wrench, you would be surprised how consistent and accurate it is.

But to make sure a check on the sides will reveal any abnormal bowing.


















And final you may notice a red line? well when I made the press I used a speed brace to do up the nuts and although its 30mm laminated particle board, A recycled kitchen bench off cut I manage to produce a stress crack.

Hence the reminder instructions









The tightening up sequence for those who forget !!










The accessories kit:

Veneer softener, don't buy this stuff already prepared it costs a bomb for some reason, $28 for 500mL

The secret formula H2O and Glycerine 90 % water 10 % glycerine.

A bottle from the chemist 100ml and then just hit your closest water tap

Maybe the pump bottle is expensive to make.


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## BobWemm (Feb 15, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer work recommences*
> 
> Well after my brain methane discharge I spent the rest of the evening and early morning considering my options.
> 
> ...


It gets more exciting by the day. Can't wait to see the end result.

Cheers, Bob.


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## Doe (Aug 26, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer work recommences*
> 
> Well after my brain methane discharge I spent the rest of the evening and early morning considering my options.
> 
> ...


I agree with Bob. Great adventure.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Veneer run No 1*

Some interesting progress was made today, the front caul and veneer trim Jig have been made.

The front caul tested and produced some good results.

*The Veneer Caul.*

I made it from the off cuts plus two more to get the depth required.
gave it a dry fit up and everything looked OK.









Here is a view of the reversed panel base I used.









I found a couple of veneer pieces for the base material which would fit nicely so on they went.










The top of the lid I did inside the garage










The lower front of the base in progress.



















Then it was onto the front of the lid.










*The finished result.*




























The gap at the bottom was intentional as the trim will go in here.

Hopefully the flattening will be finished tomorrow and its time to do it all over again using the finishing veneer.

The Veneer trim jig will get a test run next

*A closing P.S.* I messaged Roger Bean and he replied with a very in depth report on my progress.

One of the most important observations made was that I had used real wood which is a candidate for twisting warping and all sorts of future possible problems.

So a lesson learned, use ply MDF or any other composite material for this type of project.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer run No 1*
> 
> Some interesting progress was made today, the front caul and veneer trim Jig have been made.
> 
> ...


It looks great so far Robert. I'm not disputing Roger's advice, but remember that before MDF and other composite materials were developed only solid woods were used as substrates and there are thousands upon thousands of veneered pieces hundreds of years old that still look great, so it is not a given that you will encounter problems.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer run No 1*
> 
> Some interesting progress was made today, the front caul and veneer trim Jig have been made.
> 
> ...


Looking very nice. 
Is that a porta-power you are using to press? ....... should give you enough force….
I think I would have oriented the grain the other way (vertically) but I'm sure you had your reasons and that it will be fine this way.
Personally, I hate MDF but it is stable and I hate using it quite frequently.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer run No 1*
> 
> Some interesting progress was made today, the front caul and veneer trim Jig have been made.
> 
> ...


This is looking really nice and I can't wait to see it when it's finished.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer run No 1*
> 
> Some interesting progress was made today, the front caul and veneer trim Jig have been made.
> 
> ...


Some feed back.
Thanks guys good to get some progress again.

Mike,
Yes I agree and I hope I do not have any problems, but I guess time will tell.

We had a large curved (including the Glass) front display cabinet in our family home when I was a kid and it always opened and closed perfectly.

Paul,

Yes its a Hydraulic Car Body repair Kit, a very useful item around the home and workshop!
The veneer orientation was simply a case of the best fit as I only had two small sheets that matched.

I went back and redid the strip at the bottom later as I didn't want to have an uneven surface for the finishing veneer regardless of the fact it will get routed out for the trim.
Agree regarding MDF it was originally my intention to use it but the furry finish aspect swayed me off it.

The dolls house I made for the Grand daughter was almost all MDF or HDF, HDF being the better product to work with not much difference characteristics wise still falls apart on absorption of moisture but does produce better edge finishes, good for pattern making !

I was impressed with your HHG videos!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer run No 1*
> 
> Some interesting progress was made today, the front caul and veneer trim Jig have been made.
> 
> ...


Just a note about HHG / MDF.

One of the great advantages of HHG is that you can reverse it with heat and moisture. This is a recipe for disaster with MDF. The heat / moisture application dissolves the MDF just a moment before the HHG liquifies and releases.

This is not a good thing.


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## BobWemm (Feb 15, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer run No 1*
> 
> Some interesting progress was made today, the front caul and veneer trim Jig have been made.
> 
> ...


Looking real good Rob.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Veneer Flattening Process*

I have a couple of methods available to flatten veneer.
One is a hydraulic ram from a Auto Body repair kit,
the other is my purpose made mechanical screw Veneer press.

The Ram works on the material set up on the concrete floor of the garage and uses the floor bearer above.










The mechanical press is simply a couple of laminated Particle board kitchen bench off cuts about 400mm x 400mm with twelve bolts around the outside.










I had all the veneer for the box in the mechanical clamp overnight to soften and flatten it.

This morning I opened it up to check on the progress.

Well it was not ready but I noticed my chalk marking had disappeared so I had to take everything out to remark.

Well I found a couple of surprises when I laid everything out.

1 There was about 12mm of width expansion and,
2 The features of the veneer were much more enhanced with the addition some moisture.

Here is a shot of the set with the adjoining strips together to verify the alignment.

I remarked them all again in the waste areas with a black marker.










Here is a shot again of them all together and the templates sitting next to each piece.










Then the amount of expansion.

That's quite a lot, about 12 mm in 200 mm



















It will be interesting to see how much shrinkage occurs when it normalises again.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer Flattening Process*
> 
> I have a couple of methods available to flatten veneer.
> One is a hydraulic ram from a Auto Body repair kit,
> ...


It should come pretty much right back Rob. Unless the glycerin prevents it in some way. I only use water and heated cauls to flatten so I can't say for sure. 
I had a real adventure with this kind of movement on my "Facets" project. It is documented here.
Yours isn't marquetry so shape isn't as big a thing. You should be good as long as it dries to ambient humidity.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer Flattening Process*
> 
> I have a couple of methods available to flatten veneer.
> One is a hydraulic ram from a Auto Body repair kit,
> ...


Wow that's some impressive change, I must go and take a look at all the parts its something I have a real interest in.

I should look up why the glycerin is in the mix for as its only 10% and apart from making the concrete slippery.

Plus its criminal that WW shops charge 28 bucks for 500mL !!

Thanks for the tip


----------



## tomd (Jan 29, 2008)

robscastle said:


> *Veneer Flattening Process*
> 
> I have a couple of methods available to flatten veneer.
> One is a hydraulic ram from a Auto Body repair kit,
> ...


Glycerin is a softener, you can mix your own softener for a lot less. The mix I use is 4 cups water, 1 cup glycerin, 1 cup PVC glue, 1 cup denatured alcohol. Your veneer will return to size when it dries and will be much easier to work with.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*The second veneer run and trim work commences*

I had a couple of days consumed while the veneer was softened and flattened.
Then I was busy again applying the finishing veneer layer to the outside.










Lots of selecting of matching grain gluing clamping trimming and the repeating the process for each section.










Once all that was all done I then began producing the trim I cut the profile sections on the band saw and then dimensioned them in the drum sander.

I then set up the shaper to route the trim rabbet.

After a couple of test runs I was confident the setting was what I needed.

So I routed the jig to confirm all was OK










I added some sections of the trim and taped it on temporarily to re confirm all was OK










Then it was onto the actual box










The 90 deg surfaces were done with a fence and the curved profile the fence was removed and it was done free hand.

I had some tear out in two sections for some reason.
It was a bit disappointing to have that happen, see a very large section on the front top, but nothing I could do with it at the moment.

No doubt it had something to do with end grain but did not repeat as badly on the same section of the lid.

Nothing some wood filler cannot rectify later.










I did a temporary fit up of the curved trim to see just how much profile work I have to do tomorrow










I also noticed some other minor chipping again, which will have to be corrected later.



















Overall a very nervous day was put in and mixed results obtained,

I was particularly concerned about routing the curved front but as it turned out the chip out and minor splinter was more of a concern.

Tomorrow its on with the trim and determine some fixes for the damage.

Its slowly getting there, I think the main fabrication work is complete and its now detail finishing time


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *The second veneer run and trim work commences*
> 
> I had a couple of days consumed while the veneer was softened and flattened.
> Then I was busy again applying the finishing veneer layer to the outside.
> ...


Damage can usually be fixed, so don't get discouraged. The box is coming along very well. You might also consider fixing with veneer instead of filler. It isn't so difficult to cut a piece for insert, outline on the surface, cut out the damaged piece and glue in the replacement piece. Just a thought.


----------



## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *The second veneer run and trim work commences*
> 
> I had a couple of days consumed while the veneer was softened and flattened.
> Then I was busy again applying the finishing veneer layer to the outside.
> ...


Cutting a score line with utility knife prior to routing helps prevent the veneer damage. As Stefang mentioned; this can be fixed. Looking forward to seeing the finished project.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Front Alternative method*

Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
Background.
Kiefer posted a banana stand he made for is daughter, a great job too! and to add to the skills a blog was added as to how he made the curve shape, take a look because there is information there I used but did not repeat here.

So what's all the excitement? well I read the blog then the project this morning and realised I had gone to a lot of effort and time to make the curved front I used.

So appreciating the concept I cast all the other work aside for a while and I set up a sled and used a piece of scrap wood to prove if the concept would work for me.

Or simply put "I have gotta try that straight away"!!

The Sled is fairly basic just some MDF and a miter gauge mounted in reverse on the table saw.

Well not including the set up time and not having any accurate marking out ( I had to resaw every second cut!) I had a workable solution within about 30 minutes.

Here is the method I would seriously consider if I ever made a curved front box again.

This is the test piece being cut, and due to being a prototype it was re cut. (hence the block under the end)










I used similar index marks as those by Kiefer, although mine were originally too wide for my application, as I was not able to do the inclined reverse cuts due to my design.










I used the same 10 degrees as Kiefer.










From the time it come off the saw it looked like a very promising test, (although Rough as) so into the existing Jig/Caul it went.

Now when you look at this take into consideration it was only a concept test not an actual working piece.

So ignoring the jig/Caul will need modification or redesign to fully suit, the accuracy of the cuts will have to be refined and the use of specific jointed and dressed timber used along with two pieces of finishing veneer it would work and with less process and effort from that of my original labour intensive activity.










Amazing what you can learn from other LJs !! I am impressed and most appreciative of Kiefer unintentional mentoring and guidance.

Thank you.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Front Alternative method*
> 
> Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
> Background.
> ...


Robert
For you application I would make straight cuts and use a indexing deice to get even spacing .
Wetting the thin part of the board will also help it from breaking in the jig .
These reason I used angled cuts is for decoration only .


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Front Alternative method*
> 
> Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
> Background.
> ...


Kiefer

Thanks for the info,
Firstly I went back into the blog and edited Keifer to Kiefer sorry about that!

OK got it 90 deg will be remembered, I was unsure as to why you chose 10 deg alt as i had never seen it before and so I rechecked the pictures to try and find an answer, but could not see any reason why, so I used it knowing it would work!

Now I know and yes it is very effective.

Thanks again !!

松开,


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Front Alternative method*
> 
> Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
> Background.
> ...


Up date:

I could have just hucked the material in the bin, but there was no new learning in that, so

I decided to continue on just for the experience,

Cut some veneer strips for the sides

Hit everything with Titebond II,










prepared the caul and clamped everything up

Had to add some extra clamps on the ends due to the small size of the caul










And its quietly drying, I should really do some CFB work but I am having too much fun "fooling about" and learning stuff.

Enjoy


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Front Alternative method*
> 
> Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
> Background.
> ...


Any day you learn something new is a very good day. 
Congrats on having a fine day.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Front Alternative method*
> 
> Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
> Background.
> ...


Easy to relate to your joy in having learned a new and useful technique Robert. I think that might be my favorite part of woodworking. I know that doesn't make sense, but then much of life doesn't. I have a woodworking book I bought back in 1972 that shows this bending technique. Surprisingly (or maybe not) there are 'rules' for doing this kind of work. This being an out of print publication, I will scan that information and send it to you somehow. I'm not sure how well that will work out, but it's worth a try.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Front Alternative method*
> 
> Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
> Background.
> ...


Mike and Paul

Its really stressful being retired I get up have a cup of Coffee turn the PC on and read stuff on LJs then if its something that attracts me I just go do it,

Minimal knowledge,experience but the will to achieve a result.

With more knowledge I guess I can do procedures better, but that's the enjoyment and it keeps me occupied for longer than normal I can assure you.

It will be good to venture into wood bending and HHG processes and get a kick out of it at the same time

Today because it was so hot I skulked off up the road to my friend Wally's house… he is about 90+ and has a fully packed area under his house its a maze of gear timber mouldings and just about any thing you could think of, none of which he uses any more but he can tell you every characteristic about them.

I bought a huge QR vice from him that he pulled out from somewhere for $50.00, after two beers it was not the sort of luggage I needed to carry home on my shoulder I tell you.
All I need to do now is work out how to fix it to the bench!!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Front Alternative method*
> 
> Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
> Background.
> ...


Here is the completed product, I don't advocate its load bearing capabilities or structural integrity but its finished.




























Amazing what lurks below the surface !!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Front Alternative method*
> 
> Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
> Background.
> ...


That came out quite nice Robert. I would think it is pretty strong with the veneer on it. Kind of like a curved torsion box. Probably more than strong enough for a draw front. Maybe some destructive testing to find out just how strong.

I have also seen curved drawers made from solid wooden blocks glued together like a bricks and then cut and sanded smooth before veneering. I think that is the way they did it in the old days and it was a great way to get some use out of all those short cutoffs that every shop has more than enough of.

It seems there are so many ways to do the same thing based on the materials and tools one has on hand.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Front Alternative method*
> 
> Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
> Background.
> ...


Hey Rob, your morning sounds eerily like mine.
The reason I mentioned a liner veneer before was that I renovated a lovely old sideboard for my wife a couple of years ago which had curved drawers made just like your original front and while the veneer and matching was beautiful, you could see the layers telegraphing through. 
.........so yes it has been done that way for along time. So of course has kerfing.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Front Alternative method*
> 
> Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
> Background.
> ...


This wasn't quite as easy as I thought it would be. The accompanying instructions are written in Norwegian, so I will write a translation for each step. I hope you find it useful. Please let me know if there is anything you don't understand.

1. Rip an edge off the solid wood you intend to bend (or equivalent) 
Mark a line (A) 2" in from from the end.

2. Mark off the length of the radius from point (A) to point (B)

3. Make a saw cut through 3/4 of the width at point (A), then clamp the piece down at the end near point (A) to a flat surface, then make a mark on the surface at point (B).

4. Push at point (B) along the surface until the sawkerf at point (A) closes up, then make another mark at point (B). The difference between the first and second marks at point (B) will determine the correct spacing for the cuts on you actual workpiece.

5. Make a series of cuts on the actual workpiece with the spacing determined in step 4. These cuts should be 3/4 through the thickness of the workpiece.

6. Place glue in the sawkerfs then bend the radius with a cord and clamp the workpiece to a flat surface until dry. Sand and veneer.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Front Alternative method*
> 
> Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
> Background.
> ...


Excellent information Mike. I've been doing this for years by eyeball and never even thought about a "correct" formula. This would give you a curve with the kerfs actually glued at the ends. I will remember this one.

Thanks for the translation.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Front Alternative method*
> 
> Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
> Background.
> ...


Really fine, yes magic under the surface.
Mike that's cool.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Front Alternative method*
> 
> Well now here is some good news, I thought so anyway !
> Background.
> ...


Oh Yeah I am excited ! how simple is that ! great work Mike I will report back soon, I think I have to go shopping with Aurora. PPsst boring… no wood working shops in the complex!!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*The Trim work Commences*

The trim work has commenced in ernest, after my rabbeting disaster I kinda lost interest for a while and went and did something different for a while, see the rambling's on the bottom of #11

Anyway I an back into it today, out with the Oscillating Sander Bandsaw and the Disk sander as well

First up it was selecting the most suitable trim for the front top and bottom of the curved front, fitted them up and the sanded to suit the profile.

Once I had that done I the needed an accurate way to miter and trim the rough sawn curved sections, so I made up a jig to do all the bevels without having to adjust then re set everything again over and over.

Because the trim meets at three points double bevels were required.

With a final sand it was time to incrementally tape everything together to confirm it would all fit together correctly.

With that confirmed I left the tape in place and commenced individually gluing each part in by lifting the tape applying glue and then retaping and adding a clamp or two.

Well it all fitted together and I was going well when I discovered I had run out of usable clamps, so I only completed the base.

The top/lid will be a revisit of the above procedure but as I had no more clamps it will be done later.

I will not bother to blog it as its possibly just a repeat.

Here are all the progress photos of the base only.

General Arrangement.










The jig fabricated for the job.



















The fit and tape up










The three intersecting points.










The annoying chip out bits.










The glue up in progress.










The final Clamp up!
Did I mention I ran out of suitable clamps!


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *The Trim work Commences*
> 
> The trim work has commenced in ernest, after my rabbeting disaster I kinda lost interest for a while and went and did something different for a while, see the rambling's on the bottom of #11
> 
> ...


You're getting there Robert. Really too bad about the chip outs but they can be repaired and you have learned something to avoid next time.

Cheers!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *The Trim work Commences*
> 
> The trim work has commenced in ernest, after my rabbeting disaster I kinda lost interest for a while and went and did something different for a while, see the rambling's on the bottom of #11
> 
> ...


It's looking really great Robert. I like your jig. I have the exact same Woodfast sanding machine. Those damages shouldn't be so difficult to repair. I think I have some pictures of a good technique for that. I'll have a look and get back to you.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *The Trim work Commences*
> 
> The trim work has commenced in ernest, after my rabbeting disaster I kinda lost interest for a while and went and did something different for a while, see the rambling's on the bottom of #11
> 
> ...


Here is the veneer repair method Robert in case you find it helpful. The photo turned out rather dark so I hope you can zoom it to see the details more clearly. Here's another translation.

1. Temporarily tape down the replacement veneer over the damaged area with a large enough patch to provide good overlap over the damage.

2. Make a triangular cut through the veneer larger than the damaged area. Cut all the way through enough to leave the knife marks on the surface under the patch.

3. Remove the patch and cut the rest of the way through on your workpiece surface and then clean out the veneer from the inside of the triangle.

4. Glue in the patch and tape it in place, then clamp a piece of flat wood on top till dry(maybe with something soft underneath the wood?).

The triangle shape of the patch will not be very visible at all.


----------



## BobWemm (Feb 15, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *The Trim work Commences*
> 
> The trim work has commenced in ernest, after my rabbeting disaster I kinda lost interest for a while and went and did something different for a while, see the rambling's on the bottom of #11
> 
> ...


Looking good.

Bob.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*The trim drives me nuts or more frustrating errors*

I completed the trim so today start to finish the edges today.

I had no end of problems,
1. The box is really too big for any of my equipment.
a. My Router bits are not really geared o the size as well but saved my bacon !!
b My ability to sand something that big, specifically the box body the lid not so bad.

All this work I created no end of ongoing errors,

More veneer tear out, and in the same area so its definitely a glue up problem give myself an uppercut!
Trying to remove any PVA based glue is an absolute nightmare, Oh woo is me!

Now I know why HHG is used for veneer.

Anyway with that said here is todays results warts and all!

Trimming the front curved surface, even that was a problem as I realised I needed to route in both directions from the center due to the grain direction

So away I went in one direction.










Then because I cannot reverse my shaper, I stop, swap out bits reverse the work piece and go again.










Eventually the curved fronts are done, and they look OK!










Then onto the sides and back , and what should be almost straightforward, up comes some more veneer !!!
and a trim decides to tear out, again possibly me going against the grain again. Something I didn't even consider.










Cannot do anything about it just yet so I just leave it

Commence sanding starting at 180 Grit, that was at least enjoyable (if there is such a thing in the sanding world

I did my tests Jig and then applied a coat of tung oil to check what it may look like










This little project is really starting to disturb my bowels, so I had to take some time out again and this time make some dunny roll holders, for a friend.










I will keep going, maybe later !! but it will get finished, !!

Lesson learned:
1. When adding trim ensure the grain direction is all one way. ( Or don't even think of going near a router!
2. Go buy some HHG equipment or stop doing veneer work. so you can get the stuff off completely instead of having to use a patching method. Credits Stefang!
3. Don't build things bigger than your finishing equipment.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *The trim drives me nuts or more frustrating errors*
> 
> I completed the trim so today start to finish the edges today.
> 
> ...


Part of your veneer problem may be the result of inadequate pressing. One nice thing about HHG is that you can hammer veneer and not worry about clamping pressure.
At least you are learning, but I'll bet you get a pretty nice box at the end of all this as well.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *The trim drives me nuts or more frustrating errors*
> 
> I completed the trim so today start to finish the edges today.
> 
> ...


It is still looks good Robert so I hope you don't get too discouraged with it. I'm not knocking machine tools, but for one-offs you might consider hand planing the trim instead of routing. You could probably do the curved parts very nicely with a round bottom spokeshave and a card scraper. No jigs needed and you can keep much better control of the work. I also think you deserve credit for blogging this build, warts and all as I think we all go through this same process many times with projects that represent new challenges to us.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Starting the internal trays*

Today I started the design and build up of the internal trays.

The overall concept is two trays the lower the deepest with central dividers to allow easy removal.

After doing some sketches and trying to determine a practical solution it was back to cutting curved profiles for the fronts.

I wanted to avoid this process and use kerf sawn curved sections, but my inexperience in doing timber 10 to 12mm sections saw me returning to cutting the fronts on the bandsaw.

I wanted to avoid having to veneer the trays but did not have enough stock to use NG Rosewood all round.

So it will be more veneering of the front and top of the trays at least.

I also was wanting to step back from veneering mainly due to the tearout I was experiencing.

The reason for this is not that it will not happen again but the apparent inability to be able to buy Hot Hide Glue and its associated accessories in Brisbane.

It seems that you can buy the Glue no worries but the brushes glue pot and other components are not available any where.

So my thoughts were to avoid veneering until I can repair any damage reasonably easly rather than have to resort to chiselling out Titebond glue, the glue is great don't get me wrong, but not if rework is required like veneer chip out.

Anyway back to the tray work.

I screwed together enough jointed stock to do both trays, and then cut the first profile on the band saw using my cardboard profiles.

Once I made the first cut I realised it would be best to sand both together before separating,
So an additional oscillating sander step occurred before both were then cut out as individual fronts.

It was then on to determining the grain layout for the NG rosewood I wanted to use on the sides and back.

Enough prattle here are the results in a reasonable sequence.

The front stock jointed and ready to cut










The first cut completed.










The NGR Frame work layout.










The grain layout was my primary concern so I laid out the tray to allow the grain to run continuously from the front side to the back and complementary side.










Now cutting rebates on curved timber was another brain teaser for me.










How I did it was a fairly simple solution, I used my drop saw with a preset depth and a backing board as a guide.
Simple eh!!

Next process will be dovetailing the back to the sides and then matching the sides to the front section for fit .
I am thinking rebated butt joints. Lets see what evolves!!

Enjoy!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Starting the internal trays*
> 
> Today I started the design and build up of the internal trays.
> 
> ...


Looks good Robert.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Starting the internal trays*
> 
> Today I started the design and build up of the internal trays.
> 
> ...


Good progress.
Don't count on HHG to be a lot easier to repair. Yes it is reversible, but it isn't as easy as you might think. A better approach would be elimination of the chip out in the first place. HHG will help there as you can repair any poorly glued areas with an application of heat from an iron or hot caul. Hammer technique will also help get the edges glued well.


----------



## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Starting the internal trays*
> 
> Today I started the design and build up of the internal trays.
> 
> ...


nice work and it's all old school to.


----------



## BobWemm (Feb 15, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Starting the internal trays*
> 
> Today I started the design and build up of the internal trays.
> 
> ...


Glad it's you and not me, Robert. I would have tossed it by now. LOL


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *Starting the internal trays*
> 
> Today I started the design and build up of the internal trays.
> 
> ...


Thanks Guys, its the encouragement that keeps me at it
It has got to be the longest and frustrating of my projects.

Just how did craftsman make these years ago, possibly just two saw horses for a bench and with non electric tools for sure, makes you wonder.
I remember as a young boy my Mum had a curved glass fronted cabinet in our lounge room, its construction was always fascinating with its curved timber and glass as well.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Completion and Dry fit up of the Trays*

I continued from yesterday, cut dovetails for the rear section joints and butts for the front









The bases were plywood shaped and rebated on the bandsaw and shaper









The process was fairly straightforward.

Cut the tray frames to fit the internals of the Box base,then cut the plywood to match the frames

Route a rebate into the tray frames









Now this step again had me thinking again, cutting a slot or rebate in straight timber is no challenge, but cutting a piece of concave timber was.

I did not have a slotter bit with a bearing capable of cutting the inside of the curved front to the depth I required.

Simple I thought I will phone up and get a bigger bearing, but that was not to be so as the ID was bigger when wanting 38, 40, or 45mm OD

I wandered about checking every router bit In had, telling myself I could not believe i did not have one that would do the job, the perils of working in miniature!

Then as I was looking at my set of "junk budget" cutters. I saw something that could work.

I used the 1/4 Round over bit as shown its a modified bit with a bigger bearing, most people just remove the bearing but not me I stick a bigger bearing on!









The wing was exactly the size I wanted so I removed the original bearing and replace it with a larger one to obtain the depth I needed.

So there you go, need a shallow groove with a slight round on one edge in very thin timber?

I then used a cove bit for a finger grip on the center piece

Once I had then all assembled some fine tuning was required









Then the final dry assembly

*The bases*









*The tops*









All looked OK so I thought I had better drop them in for a check up.

*The bottom tray*








and 
*The top Tray*









Now its off for glue up and hopefully nothing moves out of square.

A question do you think they need a sub divider?

Coffee time!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Completion and Dry fit up of the Trays*
> 
> I continued from yesterday, cut dovetails for the rear section joints and butts for the front
> 
> ...


I'm for more dividers, otherwise the jewelry gets all mixed up. I would suggest some rectangular large areas for larger necklaces and a bunch of small ones for rings, earrings, etc.


----------



## BobWemm (Feb 15, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *Completion and Dry fit up of the Trays*
> 
> I continued from yesterday, cut dovetails for the rear section joints and butts for the front
> 
> ...


That's coming along very nicely.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*Finished in its Raw Form*

Today I completed the assembly of the trays, added some extra storage sections and The Curved Front Box is structurally finished.

Remaining to do is:

The selection fitment of the hinges locks and stays.
The repair of the veneer chip out.
Determining of external and internal finishes, and 
The installation of the veneer edge trim.

So this is the end of the construction Blog and the next time you see the box it will be posted as a completed project. Its highly likely that will happen in early 2014

Here is the raw assembled box

Humm pictures don't seem to want to load
2nd Try, not quite sure what happened the Project pictures were all going brown as well, but its OK now.

*The Front*









*The Right Hand Side*









*The Back*









*The Left Hand Side*









*The Final Tray Layout*
I wanted to add some sections for small items and provide a way to prevent necklaces and the likes from becoming tangled.
The rings were my solution, I didn't want to do some thing too easy like straight dividers so this was the result.

Some New Guinea Rosewood was used, I selected a couple of suitable hole saws and set to work.
I used a length of garden hose to hold the rings, a bit like how a oil filter wrench would work.









*The Bottom tray*









*The Trays out.*


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

robscastle said:


> *Finished in its Raw Form*
> 
> Today I completed the assembly of the trays, added some extra storage sections and The Curved Front Box is structurally finished.
> 
> ...


Wonderful result Robert. I can't wait to see it with a finish and the hardware mounted.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

robscastle said:


> *Finished in its Raw Form*
> 
> Today I completed the assembly of the trays, added some extra storage sections and The Curved Front Box is structurally finished.
> 
> ...


What an elegant design! Can't wait for the finished box.


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## moonie (Jun 18, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Finished in its Raw Form*
> 
> Today I completed the assembly of the trays, added some extra storage sections and The Curved Front Box is structurally finished.
> 
> ...


nice work rob.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *Finished in its Raw Form*
> 
> Today I completed the assembly of the trays, added some extra storage sections and The Curved Front Box is structurally finished.
> 
> ...


Wow. Comin along very nicely.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

*The finished product from 2013*

I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.

Its got a few veneer chip outs which need fixing but I must have lost interest in it.

So here is a few completed shots warts and all.










I had a magpie stroll over to see what I was doing then all his mates arrived to get in the action



















I just kept taking pictures and they just got closer and closer










They even checked out the internal trays as well.










They didnt bother me and I guess maybe they thought I had made them a nesting box.










So thats it all complete just three years later !!


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


COOL box…

COOL Design!

COOL Magpie Nest! They will be very happy, I'm sure… Special Nesting areas n ALL! 

Better late than never…

Thank you…


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


Really nice project and what a great picture opportunity, doesn't get much better than that..


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## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


Very nice box, Rob.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


Thanks Guys,

I guess the next move is to repair the veneer tearout and post it as a project but its not high on the priority at the moment, which is a pity really as back in 2003 I spent hours and days on it, originally inspired by Roger Beans fantastic boxes.

I know Roger guided and mentored me along the way along with quite a few other LJs at the time, Shipwright and Stefang just to name a few come to mind especially when I got completely "rattled" by all the detailed work that is required and the poor results I was achieving in the process.

As you can see its a blog series of 17 parts, its unbelivable that I hung in there for so long and got it (almost) finished.


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## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


Nice Box Rob, hahaha! clever magpies, they realised what the box was for and were looking for the sparklers!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


Thanks Phil

Are you improving health wise with your knees and back?


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


Very cool design and good looks


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


Great looking box, love the detail and the birds are just wonderfully interested also


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


Certainly is a beautiful box Rob…. 
Watch those maggies they'll nick anything that's not secured…


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


Ah Ha! right now I have got it… Phlil Bello metioned "sparklers"

Now I understand what their interest really was ….at the time I was amazed they were so tame or brazen.
As it turns out they were not interested in my wood work skills at all they were just trying to tealeaf something!


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## Bermuda_Les (Jan 13, 2015)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


Very impressive box. I've not had the courage to tackle anything so complex. Well done!


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


Rob, I'm a bit late, but this is a very good looking box, and well presented writeup. Thank you very much for the detailed description, warts and all. I hope you've found time (or find time soon) to finish it.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


Dave:

I didnt realise I had not posted it, now that you have shamed me into I had better get busy standby.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

robscastle said:


> *The finished product from 2013*
> 
> I found this box tucked away today and realised I had never completed the blog or posted it as a project way back in 2013.
> 
> ...


Smart birds… kind a looks like our crows (which are all Black)..


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