# Steel stud for a straight edge?



## Lumber2Sawdust

I'm working on a project and I want to use a router to "joint" a straight edge on two 8 foot slabs. In order to accomplish this, I need a decent 8' straight edge. 
I looked at the big box stores and they sell 8 foot levels, which run about $100.
My next thought is a sheet of plywood. I could keep a 12" wide piece of ply for future use as a straight edge, too.

I took a tour around the store and I saw a rack of steel studs. By eye, they look pretty straight. They have a U-shaped profile and are pretty rigid so they won't flex. The cost $5-6. For the price, and the easy storage, I'm thinking about giving it a shot.

Has anybody else used a steel stud for a straight edge? Do you have any other repurposed items that you use for a straight edge instead?


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## tomd

No, but why not ?


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## FirehouseWoodworking

Aluminum U-channel, steel struts also work.

I also use MDF molding and dimensional trim. If you find a piece that has a damaged edge and the other edge is fine, you can often get it for a big discount because it won't sell for it's intended purpose. But all I need is one good edge.


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## Doss

I know at the blue big box store that they have a long straight-edged ruler that is $10. I want say it's 8' long, but it could be shorter (maybe 7').

I like the fact that it is easy to clamp down to a surface so I can use it as a cutting guide for the circular saw or router plus get consistent straight lines.

Do those studs have square angles or do they have a slight round to them? If they are even slightly rounded at the corners, it could be difficult to draw straight lines.


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## Lumber2Sawdust

Thanks for the replies.

Doss, the studs to have slightly rounded corners. If I can establish that the material is straight (draw a line, flip it over and draw a complimentary line to see if they match) then I will be using it more as a guide for a router then for actually drawing accurate lines.

For a $5 investment, I'm going to give it a shot. Worst case, I can return the unused stud and it wouldn't cost me anything.


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## jmos

You can look and see if they have an aluminum right angle extrusion; I'm drawing a blank on the proper name, but it's bent at a 90deg angle, usually with a sharp right angle on the outside. It's pretty rigid, light, and usually quite straight, I just don't know if they carry it in 8' lengths. I saw a Chris Schwarz video where he used a pair of 3' long pieces as winding sticks; straight, cheap, and won't fall over.


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## HerbC

I have used a steel stud for an edge guide many times without any significant problem.

Good Luck!

Be Careful!

Herb


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## Gshepherd

I have used that steel they use for hanging garage doors with all the holes in it….. Later if can come in handy for other things as well….


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## MrRon

Will a steel stud work? It all depends on how straight you need it to be. All the items mentioned, were not designed to be straight edges, although they are reasonably straight, but no guarantee. steel and aluminum shapes you find at big box stores can be mangled by store personnel and end up not-too-straight. I have a Starrett 5 ft straight edge, but it cost $100 +. For woodworking, I use a piece of plywood about 12" wide as a guide for a "Skil" saw. It's about as good a straight edge you will find.


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## sixstring

the term for the garage door hangers is "angle iron" and could be pretty handy in the right situations.


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## dhazelton

Angle iron.


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## donwilwol

I use an old bed frame. Its angle steel, good and straight, cost nothing, I can drop it, throw it and it just comes back for more. Its not 8", but angle can be purchased fairly reasonable.


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## MrRon

You can find old bed frame angles at a local Goodwill or Salvation Army outlet for 2 or 3 dollars.


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## rejo55

I have used aluminum angle many times, mainly because it has a good, sharp corner. "Course, I don't work to the 10/000 inch, so it does fine for me. My best buddy, (the last of the big-time Alabama ****************************************) uses a piece of steel plate-3/4" x 6" x 10 feet. I ain't quite the man he is.
Have a good'un
Joe


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## Lumber2Sawdust

So I took the plunge and spent $6 on a steel stud. I "borrowed" an 8 foot box level from the tool department and checked how straight the stud was. I passed on the first one, but the second one I checked was very close over 8 feet.

I set it up my slabs and clamped on the stud. 15 minutes later I had to edges that are nicely jointed.

After clamping the ends of the stud to the slab, I was surprised that there was some lateral flex in the center. It was probably only 1/32 of flex. Close enough for the work that I do. That stud will be stored away in the rafters of my shop for the next time I need a long guide for the router.

Thanks for all of your suggestions.


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## Sylvain

A bit late (coming back from hollyday travel)
look at :

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/tips/archive/2008/06/29/8-ftStraightedge-for-4.aspx


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## Doss

This is the one I use from Lowe's:

72 inch Ruler

They have a  100 inch straight cutting edge too.


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## Lumber2Sawdust

Thanks guys.

The american woodworker mentions "20 gauge" studs. I have the 25 gauge, which does deflect, like the article says. I know of a drywall supply place nearby. I may have to check there for the heavier gauge version.


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## Knothead62

I got one of the two-piece straight edge thingys at Lowes; it's about 8-1/2 ft. long so it will work on 8 ft. plywood. I am skeptical of angle or strut being straight.


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