# My new G0661 Table Saw



## muleskinner (Sep 24, 2011)

Nicely set up. I don't see where you lose much as opposed to a cabinet saw. Plus you end up having several hundred bucks to buy other shiny, sharp stuff or wood.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks for your review.


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

Thanks go out to *Knotscott* for providing all the info about whats out there in table saws. I haven't needed a table saw in 20 years. All the info saved me a lot of time researching.

Thanks go out to *Toolie *for providing the link below on tilt axis alignment. Having a mathmatical formula for the exact shim thickness saved me a lot of trial and error in my alignment

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t25836/


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

Looks like you went from a "Yugo" to a Cadillac. Enjoy your saw.


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## Marty5965 (Jan 27, 2013)

Nicely done, what fasteners did you use on your extension?


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## camps764 (Dec 9, 2011)

Thanks for the review…when it comes time to upgrade this is the direction I will probably go as well.

Would it be possible to get a mini blog showing the construction/underside of your HPL Extension? I'd like to see how you attached the top to the frame you built.

I've currently got a smaller setup like that on my craftsman and it works, but it took a lot of trial and error, and I know it could still be better/more stable.


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

*Marty5965* and *camps764*

Thanks for your replies. I hope this helps. Sorry for not being a mini blog










1.) I used poplar for the frame around the extension. I drilled four 1/4" holes through the cast iron extension and 5/16" holes through the poplar. I used four 1/4" x 1-1/2" hex bolts, flat washers, and lock washers to fasten the poplar against the cast iron extension. The pieces are clamped to the rails for layout. I drilled 1/4" holes through the rails and 5/16" holes through the poplar. I had to remove the square stock tube to countersink the hole for a 1/4" x 1-1/2" flat head machine screw. The rear rail I used a 1/4" x 1-1/2" hex bolt. One hole at the far end on each of the two rails. Again I used flat washers and lock washers. Measure carefully before drilling. Keep in mind the thickness of the substraight and HPL, in my case it was 13/16".










2.) Here is the underside of the extension. The substraight is 3/4" MDF. I removed the poplar I used against the cast iron extension and fastened to the cleats as an assembly. Note the cleats are in sections to make room for the hex bolts on that piece. I used cleats around the remaining three sides to fasten the other three poplar pieces to (later on). I used a stiffener in the middle. The stiffener is there because I wanted something in the middle of the span to fasten the two poplar side pieces (brad nailed through the face of the poplar side pieces into the end of the stiffener) and add rigidity to the top.










3.) I cut a piece of HPL about 1" bigger than the width and length of the extension. I used contact cement to adhere this. Two coats on the MDF and one coat on the HPL. Allow drying time of about 20 to 30 minuntes. The contact cement should feel tacky. Carefully apply the HPL to the MDF. I didn't, but you could use short pieces of dowel rod to separate the two until you get it perfectly aligned. Once aligned remove the center dowel rod and work out to one side, removing the dowel rods and sticking the HPL to the MDF. Use a laminate roller or a wood block with an eased edge to remove air bubbles and securely flatten the HPL. Repeat on the other side. Use a flush trim bit in a router to flush the edges. When done, secure the three perimeter pieces to the cleats and flush to the HPL. I mitered the ends on the two outer corners. Use glue and screws and brad nails on the miters. Note the poplar has a beveled edge on these three pieces. I ripped the bevel prior to assembly. The cast iron top has a beveled edge of about 10.5 degrees. I matched the bevel on the polar to give them a smooth transition from cast iron to wood. Once those pieces were assembled I applied 3 coats of poly to the poplar. Once dry I assembled the extension simailar to the cast iron extensions.


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

Thanks *Howie*. That old Craftsman was a Cadillac to me 20 years ago, but no more


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

Thanks *muleskinner* and *a1Jim* for your comments


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## camps764 (Dec 9, 2011)

Thanks! I really appreciate your overview - looks like I will be building a replacement extension for both sides of the ol'craftsmen following this method!


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

Hey *camps764*, your welcome. Good luck to you adding your extensions!


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Nice review, and great pics! Congrats and enjoy!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Thnx for the review. I too have an old/older, '50's model Craftsman. I've added a Beisemeyer fence and replaced the trunnion because the arbor threads got stripped from using a crappy set o dado shims. She purrs like a kitten, and cuts dead straight. I luv it. I know one day I'll have to probably replace her, but, until then, she's my Lincoln Continental.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Thanks,

Sounds like you have a saw that will serve you well for many years to come


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

*Roger*- those 50's model Craftsman saws are built like tanks. Everyone I've read about having these vintage saws say they purr. It was a bit sad to see my old Craftsman go, but cash money in my pocket when it sold made up for it. To commemorate the old Craftsman, I used that money to buy a 4×8 sheet of laminate and 3/4 mdf, and enough poplar for the extension and eventually an outfeed table for the Grizzly.. Thanks for your comments


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

*NormG*... I hope so. If I can get 20 years or more out of it like the old Craftsman, then I'd be more than satified


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## Ettu (Feb 19, 2013)

Truly great improvements to your saw thank you for sharing. I have room for for a cabinet saw but also really like the G0661. Do you have a dust collection system and if so how effective is it compared to a cabinet saw?


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

*Ettu* - the saw has a built in dust shroud for a 2-1/2" hose. I have it hooked up to a shop vac. Surprisingly enough it does pretty good. Little to no dust on the floor, and little coming up through the insert. Having a zero clearance insert helps prevent a lot of dust coming out at the operator. Similar contractor saws have this feature if you are interested in a contractor type saw. If you have dust collection, you can get a 2-1/2" to 4" adapter as a retrofit. I can't compare this to a cabinet saw, this G0661 is only the second saw I've owned in 20 plus years, the first being a Craftsman contractor saw…..I'm not "pro"contractor saw. Just a contractor type is more convenient for me because my shop is in the basement. Lugging a heavier cabinet saw downstairs would be near impossible. A cabinet saw genaraly has advantages over the contractor (ie, cabinet mounted trunnions for easier alignment, options for more than 2hp if desired, and larger rip capacities of I think up to 52" if desired). If you have the room as you said, weigh out the options available that you desire for either a contractor or cabinet saw….Thanks for the compliment!


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## Marty5965 (Jan 27, 2013)

Excellent, thanks for the detailed additional info.


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