# Some advice on a Porter-Cable 4212 12-Inch Deluxe Dovetail Jig PLEASE!



## sdwoodworker (Jan 26, 2008)

I'm building a ton of drawers and finally decided to purchase a porter cable dovetail jig. Did some research and it looked like the best for my price range so i bought it (after drooling for an hour over the 24" Leigh).

The manual is somewhat confusing and i can't seem to find any videos on how to use it. How about some help from some folks who are familiar with this jig.

BTW I'm trying to put through DT's on the drawer sides but an explanation of both through and half blinds would be awesome!

Thanks

B


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Brad, I have that jig, and I like it a lot. I know what you mean about the manual seeming to be a bit confusing. But if I tried to type out a step-by-step for you, I'm sure it would be worse.

My advice is to get a bunch of inexpensive 1×4, cut into pieces 12" long or so, and start practicing, while trying to follow the manual step by step. As you do it, it starts to become clearer in your mind. After a dozen or so test joints, it will start to feel pretty natural. The trickiest part is to get the depth setting just right. But once you make a test joint, the manual will tell you what adjustment has to be made depending on whether it is too tight, proud, etc…

Just get to cutting and it will all clear up!


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

i have a 24" Leigh but before i got that my plan was to get the porter cable (thank goodness for craigslist). all i can say is it really helps to practice. I've been practicing on my Leigh a lot just like i practice hand cutting dovetails a lot. its a big help.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

oh and when i was looking at the porter cable i found some videos. not as much instructional but more just showing the jig. here they are.


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

Since most of the jigs are similar, maybe you can find one of the MLCS instructions might help.

They have several models to choose from.


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## Slacker (Apr 7, 2008)

I'm with Charlie… its a great tool, and the depth setting is tricky. Other than that, it is not hard at all.

Dont forget to mark the inside and outside of the piece.


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## John1 (Aug 3, 2008)

I just bought the 4210 just for making drawers because I wanted to be able to do half blind sides and fronts in one pass. It does work nicely but gettting the settings just right takes a few tries. The most difficult is getting the depth of the route bit adjusted correctly. It woirks great once it is adjusted. There are some tip "cartoon" on the sides of the jig body. Have fun - practice does make perfect.


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## BillK (Jul 14, 2007)

Check out this video from Woodworking online. Video is of the PC 4212 jig. Hope it helps.
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/04/30/podcast-20-machine-cut-dovetails/


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## BillK (Jul 14, 2007)

Here is another link to an article in the Woodworkers Journal newsletter I received today. It also uses the PC jig as an illustration for using a jig to cut dovetails.
http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/resource/JigBasedJoinery/DovetailJigTips/index.html


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## sdwoodworker (Jan 26, 2008)

Nice find BillK! I spent a few hours last night practicing and pretty much got through dovetails down. PC should have made the depth set gauge of a harder material that thing gets torn up pretty easy.

Thanks for all the help I realized what about the manual is unclear.

1) They don't specifically have a section on the brass adjustment knobs so I and maybe others just looked at those as just another nut. Once I had that epiphany things became much clearer.

2) For the money PC should include a nice color manual with the two drawer parts made of different shades of wood. This would provide much needed clarity to the pictures!

3. PC needs to put a nice video that is easy to find on their site.

Anyway thanks for all the help!


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## sdwoodworker (Jan 26, 2008)

wish I could find the plans for that dovetail jig box! Anyone have that issue around?


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

Brad, did you get the supplementary owners manual that goes into a lot of other types of joints?

http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/Porter-Cable/A24033,4210%204212.pdf


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## Slacker (Apr 7, 2008)

Nice find, CharlieM


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## sdwoodworker (Jan 26, 2008)

Well I completed the drawers for my workbench. I now actually have more storage than I can use! I'm sure the law of the universe will apply and suddenly I'll need more room but for now woohoo! I finally got into the groove with the PC jig. So i was able to to cut and assemble all 9 of my 31×31x5 drawers. My one problem however is that the joint doesn't line up perfectly. When the joint is assembled one edge will be about 1/32-1/16 higher than the other. Idea's on this one?

Pictures to follow up on completed drawers and finished workbench/cabinet.


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## Slacker (Apr 7, 2008)

Brad, I ran into that snag as well. To solve the problem, I was very careful in centering the tail piece in the jig so that the two ends were exactly equal. Then adjust the guide to the location. Also, make double sure when setting the piece to be cut that it is flush to the guide all the way up. This fixed it for me.

If that does not work, there's always sandpaper.


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## Slacker (Apr 7, 2008)

BTW, now that I am thinking of it… the instructions of the PC dovetail jig recommends that the pieces be 1/4" wider than a whole number. For example, instead of 3" wide, use 3 1/4". Since I am not so good following instructions, I have never really tested if this quarter inch thing makes any difference.

Has anyone actually followed that instruction?


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## Slacker (Apr 7, 2008)

Its past 4 pm on Friday before a long weekend, and I am having motivational problems at work. So I took the time to fast read the supplementary owner's manual to the PC dovetail jig.

This is gold! Charlie, thanks again for posting that…


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## sdwoodworker (Jan 26, 2008)

The uneven lip is definitely the alignment of the offset guide. If you're not careful when you tighten down the nut on the offset guide the plate will tilt out of 90 just slightly. It's just enough to put a 1/32 to 1/16 (gasp) lip at the corners. After adjusting the offset to make sure it stays at 90 when tightened the lip is gone.

The Supplementary guide is AWESOME! I'd seen the jig used in those ways on the videos but couldn't' find the info on how great find!


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## jeffbuilt (Apr 15, 2010)

Hey guys, this has been a great little discussion, but I am having a hard time locating the P-C Supplementary Instruction Manual for Dovetails. I have a Vista powered laptop which sucks, so I cant get at the online pdf or my machine freezes up. [I have tried fixing previous laptops w/ a hammer…!...] I am better with stuff I can see like wood, saws, nails, paper with drawings, etc. Please mention or link where to buy the manual so the manual does not open on my computer. Thanks a bunch.







.!.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Jeff -

I have a copy of the Supplementary Instructio Manual as a PDF file.

I'll forward it to you if you send my your email address in a PM.

BTW - I downloaded that file on my Vista powered laptop with no problems.


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## Bullhusk (Jan 1, 2012)

Just pulled this from the archive…. wow… what a great video posted by Billk. This was just what I needed to figure out how to get my 4212 to work for me.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

I fixed my problem trying to use my 4212 by buying an Incra LS-25.


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## Cato (May 1, 2009)

Also makes it a bit easier to use two routers when using the jig for dovetails.

I don't have it down perfect yet by any means, but milling some sacrifice lumber along with your project lumber to the same dimensions give you good backer pieces when making dovetail joints.


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## clieb91 (Aug 17, 2007)

Brad, I know this has been up for a while. But glad I found it as I want to finally pull my jig out of its box. If you have nto already found the Woodsmith plans, I just found them here. 
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/307/machinecutdovetails.pdf

It was featured on the Woodsmith shop TV series in season 3.

Looking forward to putting my jig to use finally.

CtL


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

On tip not mentioned here is that the drawer pieces need to be the same thickness. All fronts and backs the same. All sides the same. I usually use 3/4" fronts and backs, and 1/2" sides. Any variance in dimension will create misfits. Just what I've found with my 4210.
Bill


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## MoPower (Feb 6, 2009)

If you live close to a Woodcraft store you can get them to give you a demo. by demo, I mean they will give you a couple of hrs instruction.


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