# Porter-Cable 10" Job Site Saw PCB220TS



## ColonelK0rn

Good information to have. I see you've got the same CMT stacking dado set that I picked up last week. Man, that set sure is worth the money. I just have one gripe with it though: one of the outer blades is slightly higher than the other, so there's a small groove cut just about 1/64 deeper than the other side, so the cut looks like cat ears. i.e. |^--|. Kind of an exaggeration.


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## Dusty56

Your description sounds like my old Delta tabletop saw…..insert and fence issues. Those inserts should be outlawed !


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## bbrooks

Nice write up on the Porter-Cable table saw. I bought the same one a few months back. Besides the minor issue with the little plastic piece on the fence, it has been a good saw. True, the table is not as big as a contractor saw, but it works well except for large plywood pieces.

I also liked that it was in align right out of the box. I did go through the steps to check everything as in the instructions, and each time no adjustment was needed.

The riving knife is definitely a nice touch and works great. I leave the blade guard on, but took off the pawls as they sometimes make it tough to work on smaller stock.

The cart works nicely, and was not difficult to assemble. I like that it rolls out of the way when not in use.

Overall, I am quite pleased with it as well, and would probably rate it a 4 star like you did.


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## dakremer

I am trying to decided between the Dewalt job site table saw, and this one that you are talking about. One of the main reasons I want to go with Dewalt is their fence setup is unbelievable, and incredibly accurate. Problem with it is is that its $370, doesnt come with a stand, can't use dado blades, and the blade raising/tilting are the same mechanism - which i believe is harder to get accurate.

anyways just wondering how the saw is still doing? are the "major/minor" issues still a big problem or are you working around it? I really want to get into fine woodworking - like humidors, etc. So i want a very accurate saw - is this the one??? Thanks - this will help me greatly in decided. Great review as well


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## bobdobbs

dakremer,
I'm still standing by my positive review. The power and accuracy are what I can work with (I think i wouldn't be so happy if I had the space or $$ for a real cabinet saw) and it's real easy to set up. My first choice was the Dewalt but the way the fence works is what stopped me. I was not only worried about jigs, but also it wasn't going to work with my cart (although I ended up having to modify the cart anyway) because of the way the fence is attached to the extension table and the whole thing moves for the adjustments. Aside from that, I had talked to a few people on jobsites about the DeWalt and they all had good things to say about it. As you can see, i don't use the stand that came with the PC saw so that's not an issue. I do use a dado stack and get up to 1/2" with that and it's not too bad to set up. All in all, in my opinion, the porter cable still has the bang for the buck.
HTH
Mark


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## patcollins

Hi Mark

Looks like you have a nice setup there. What I was wondering is about the insert, would it be easy to make a zero clearance insert out of something like MDF or plywood for this saw or is the construction out of sheet metal too restricting to replacement inserts?


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## Beginningwoodworker

Thanks for the review.


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## bobdobbs

Pat,
I'm not sure it would be easy. I have to admit, i had a plan to make one out of 1/2" ply, and had the idea in my head, but i got laid off from work, then had throat surgery and the blank still sits there. It looks like a little router work is in order, but I'm pretty sure it can be done pretty effectively. I just got a job (pending background check which should be no problem) so I can stop stressing about money and get back to what's important. I'll be sure to post pictures when I get it done.
cheers

BW,
No problem for the review. When I first got it, I couldn't find any reviews. Somebody had to do it.


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## patcollins

Awesome, I am definitely getting this saw. Off to the post office to get my 10% off coupon from Lowes in the moving pack.


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## bbrooks

I still like my table saw, after using it for several months. Nothing really has changed, but its been a good working saw.

Dakremer, I would say if you want to do fine woodworking you will eventually want a good solid table saw. The portables will never been quite as good as the cabinet saws. But, as you read through lots of postings, everyone has opinions about table saws. Also, most people will upgrade their saw along the way. If you have the money and space, buy a cabinet saw to start with. If not, buy a good quality saw and start working with it and upgrade when you can.


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## Fencerider

Mark is a sweet set up you have for your worktools. That cart helped me pull the trigger on getting my son-in-law this saw. I had been concerned that the increasing tools would simply overtake his garage with freestanding Saws and such. But your pictures instantly led me to the solution you have already in place. He can have all his toys and room too if he plans it out right. I have forwarded you link to him so he knows how to start getting his tools to a place of their own and ready at a moment's notice to go to work. Thanks again for the review and the pics.


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## SamSpade

I would be weary of this saw…...for now. It is actually made by a company called Rexon. They have made many of Porter Cable's table top tools over the years. Porter Cable does NOT sell this tool and does NOT sell parts for it. The only way a company can obtain these saws to sell is to purchase an entire container (about 250) of them directly from Rexon. Of course, Home Depot and Lows can cover a container just supplying one state's worth of stores. Porter Cable is hoping to be able to sell these saws (and other tools made by Rexon) direct to suppliers later this year. It may also be tough, depending on your local repair shop's ability to get parts and buying power, to have these repaired. This will be a good price point saw and may be a good upgrade to a Craftsmen saw but I do not see it holding up on job sites or in a busy shop. Porter Cable is known for their sanders and routers being top notch tools but not so much with anything else. Since Black & Decker's purchase by Stanley Bostitch last year the Delta/Porter Cable line has taken some hits and has been twisted in strange ways. Good luck out there.


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## GIJoe

Hey, did u ever figure out a way around that stupid insert? I just got one and I didn't realize how dangerous the damn thing is.


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## NicktheStick

Is there any information about the blade guard insert outside of the installation instruction booklet?

It seems so flimsy and if there were kick back, would fly right out. The slot of the blade guard is smaller than the center pin which doesn't allow the guard to sit right in the housing since it seems like it should insert deeper in the housing. Plus it's a finger tight knob so it can only be so tight…...


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## WillMat

I just purchased this saw, and am surprised by the quality, but there are a few problems. I agree with everything that bobdobbs said, but what I found problems with are listed below.

The insert, as several have commented on, is a bad design, however, one can be made for it, that just doesn't encircle the entire blade. The insert only needs to encircle the front of the blade, or the front teeth, to stop tear-out anyhow, so an L-shaped insert can be fitted into the saw. Another problem though, is that the material for the insert has to be thin to fit the table recess.

The major problem that I found, was the blade to table alignment. The manual shows it is adjustable, but it is not, or on my new model, it is not. The manual shows two set screws on either side of the trunion bracket at the front of the saw, to adjust the trunion laterally, and to align the blade with the miter slot. My saw does not have this, and I have read that somebody else found the same on their saw.

On my saw, the trunnion pins go into tapered bearing blocks, which fit into tapered sockets, that are cast into the table at either end. There are no latteral adjustment screws to align them with. The only way to align these, would be to place a shim on one side of the tapered block, to nudge the trunnion around for alignment. I checked my blade, and it was 0.010" off, and the rear of the blade was over closer to the fence, which would bind the work between the blade, and a straight fence. I am now having to try to remedy this.

Now, the good news is, that the design is really beefy for this type of saw. The trunnion and the motor mount/gear box are alumunum castings. The lift rods, and lift screw is steel, along with an all steel tilt mechanism. The only thing plastic, around the trunnion unit, is the front cover for the trunnion, that makes it usable with a vacuum.

The base, though plastic, is thick and tough.

The table is a heavy aluminum casting, with 3/4" T-slot type miter slots. The miter gauge is a little loose fitting, but most are.

This saw has a nice riving knife, with a split guard. Mine works wonderfully in that regard, but the button to take the guard on and off is hard to depress. The anti-kickback pawls have some pretty severe teeth, and any kickback will result in them digging into the work, but then again, they are supposed to. I didn't find any problem with installing the riving knife, nor guard, and they worked correctly. The only problem is, when you lift the guard, it will not lift high enough to stay upright, and you have to hold it up in order to align the work to the blade.

To me, this is one of the safest saws of this type out there, and from the quality of it, it made the Skil, and even the DeWalt saws that were sitting beside it, look really bad in comparrison. Plus, the DeWalt was way more expensive.


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## iamcliff

Good, detailed review. I've had my eye on this saw at Lowes for a while. This review makes me feel pretty good about it.


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## saltzmanjoelh

My arbor doesn't seem to hold my Freud dado set very well. Just like ColonelK0rn, one of the blades is higher. It seems that there is a solid, flat, space for the blades to sit on. 2 outside blades together is too wide for that space on the arbor so the one that fits is a little higher than the other one. I'm affraid to put more blades on than that. They will be resting on the threads.

Picture 1: Total space for blades









Picture 2: Space left after 1 blade









Picture 3: 2 Blades overflow the arbor









Pictures 4 & 5: 2 Blades aren't secure. You can move them around


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## dclinks

i just got on of these off craigslist, and it kicks ass! i wish there was a handle on it..to easily pull it on the wheels….i had an ld black and decker..which will still be use for crosscuts (great sled) im looking forward to using 3/4' slots…yy


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## Bradpaulp

I just picked this saw up and very happy with it minus the weird insert plate. Anyone ever make a zci for this? Be very happy to see results and how you did it.


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## nkawtg

I picked up this saw (PCB222TS) and so far I'm happy with it. Cons for me are the fence could be better and I don't like the power switch position or its small size. I'm always having to hunt for it when I finish a cut.

I can find a Dado throat plate but no zero clearance.
http://servicenet.portercable.com/Parts/Detail/321897


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## nkdenton

> I would be weary of this saw…...for now. It is actually made by a company called Rexon. They have made many of Porter Cable s table top tools over the years. Porter Cable does NOT sell this tool and does NOT sell parts for it. The only way a company can obtain these saws to sell is to purchase an entire container (about 250) of them directly from Rexon. Of course, Home Depot and Lows can cover a container just supplying one state s worth of stores. Porter Cable is hoping to be able to sell these saws (and other tools made by Rexon) direct to suppliers later this year. It may also be tough, depending on your local repair shop s ability to get parts and buying power, to have these repaired. This will be a good price point saw and may be a good upgrade to a Craftsmen saw but I do not see it holding up on job sites or in a busy shop. Porter Cable is known for their sanders and routers being top notch tools but not so much with anything else. Since Black & Decker s purchase by Stanley Bostitch last year the Delta/Porter Cable line has taken some hits and has been twisted in strange ways. Good luck out there.
> 
> - SamSpade


I don't know about this one way or the other, but I do know that I was able to order the dado throat plate as an optional accessory from the Porter Cable ServiceNet website for $26 plus S&H. Most other parts seemed to be in stock as well. I've got less than 2 hrs on my saw and have been very pleased with it. Bought it in '12 at Lowe's with a gift card from my in-laws and it sat in the box in my garage for 2 yrs before I ever put it together. I've ripped some plywood and some 1×6's and it has performed well. As stated the miter gauge is a little flimsy but it did the trick for what little I've needed and I plan to make miter and angle sleds anyway. I don't think this model is available new anymore but it will be my primary wood shop saw until it breaks or I outgrow it. I only have 275 sq ft to work in so the small size works to my advantage in a cabinet that is on casters and is equal height to my router table and work table for in feed / out feed. I also made a flat out feed insert to clamp into my WorkMate so I don't have the snagging risks the OP mentions. Thanks much to bob for the review, by the way.


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## 4nthony

> The major problem that I found, was the blade to table alignment. The manual shows it is adjustable, but it is not, or on my new model, it is not. The manual shows two set screws on either side of the trunion bracket at the front of the saw, to adjust the trunion laterally, and to align the blade with the miter slot. My saw does not have this, and I have read that somebody else found the same on their saw.
> 
> On my saw, the trunnion pins go into tapered bearing blocks, which fit into tapered sockets, that are cast into the table at either end. There are no latteral adjustment screws to align them with. The only way to align these, would be to place a shim on one side of the tapered block, to nudge the trunnion around for alignment. I checked my blade, and it was 0.010" off, and the rear of the blade was over closer to the fence, which would bind the work between the blade, and a straight fence. I am now having to try to remedy this.


I'm running into this exact problem as well (binding, rear of blade closer to fence, etc). I can't find my original paper manual and the one I downloaded shows two screws for blade alignment, but the manual must be for a later revision as I only see what you've described. My saw has a manufacture date of 04-11.

I bought this saw new from Lowe's sometime in 11/12 and am finally getting around to trying to resolve this. I could try loosening the bolts on my saw and seeing if I can make the adjustment but I'd be curious to see if the manual addresses this type of adjustment.

Thanks!


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