# Commisions



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*Mirror Frame #1*

Well i just got a commission for a picture frame from a friend of the families. they want it to be made out of hickory to match their cabinets and they want the design to be the same as that of their cabinets. here is what i came up with on sketchup.










so i just ordered the wood from Goosebay Lumber which i have tried before and i was happy with what i got so i figured that i would go back to them. as always though i treated myself to some other small pieces of wood along with my order. I got a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 18" purpleheart turning blank to use for inlays and a couple of small ziricote cutoffs. i can't wait. so within the next two weeks i should have a blog documenting the building process and most likely have the finished project posted in about 2 1/2 weeks. thanks for looking!


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #1*
> 
> Well i just got a commission for a picture frame from a friend of the families. they want it to be made out of hickory to match their cabinets and they want the design to be the same as that of their cabinets. here is what i came up with on sketchup.
> 
> ...


Looks like your skills with Sketchup are coming along nicely. Good luck with the project.

Lew


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #1*
> 
> Well i just got a commission for a picture frame from a friend of the families. they want it to be made out of hickory to match their cabinets and they want the design to be the same as that of their cabinets. here is what i came up with on sketchup.
> 
> ...


Good luck with the commission.


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## grovemadman (Jan 28, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #1*
> 
> Well i just got a commission for a picture frame from a friend of the families. they want it to be made out of hickory to match their cabinets and they want the design to be the same as that of their cabinets. here is what i came up with on sketchup.
> 
> ...


Way to go Lad!


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #1*
> 
> Well i just got a commission for a picture frame from a friend of the families. they want it to be made out of hickory to match their cabinets and they want the design to be the same as that of their cabinets. here is what i came up with on sketchup.
> 
> ...


You have done a good job mastering SketchUp and congrats on the commission. You are doing well.


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## pyromedic602 (Feb 20, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #1*
> 
> Well i just got a commission for a picture frame from a friend of the families. they want it to be made out of hickory to match their cabinets and they want the design to be the same as that of their cabinets. here is what i came up with on sketchup.
> 
> ...


Good luck. I know you will do a great job.


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #1*
> 
> Well i just got a commission for a picture frame from a friend of the families. they want it to be made out of hickory to match their cabinets and they want the design to be the same as that of their cabinets. here is what i came up with on sketchup.
> 
> ...


Cool, look forward to seeing it made!


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## woodworkersguide (Mar 7, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #1*
> 
> Well i just got a commission for a picture frame from a friend of the families. they want it to be made out of hickory to match their cabinets and they want the design to be the same as that of their cabinets. here is what i came up with on sketchup.
> 
> ...


Cool! Looking forward to seeing the completed project!


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #1*
> 
> Well i just got a commission for a picture frame from a friend of the families. they want it to be made out of hickory to match their cabinets and they want the design to be the same as that of their cabinets. here is what i came up with on sketchup.
> 
> ...


thanks everyone i just sent out for the wood. they will probably get the check at the end of the week and i should get the wood by next Wednesday. thanks for the comments!


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## jjohn (Mar 26, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #1*
> 
> Well i just got a commission for a picture frame from a friend of the families. they want it to be made out of hickory to match their cabinets and they want the design to be the same as that of their cabinets. here is what i came up with on sketchup.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to your next post. Hope it will be a finished mirror.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #1*
> 
> Well i just got a commission for a picture frame from a friend of the families. they want it to be made out of hickory to match their cabinets and they want the design to be the same as that of their cabinets. here is what i came up with on sketchup.
> 
> ...


Video-Sketchup-Commissions-You are on FIRE!


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*Mirror Frame #2*

Just a little update on the picture frame. i got the hickory today and have planned out all of my cuts. I am waiting until this weekend when i am supposed to get a table saw until i do any work. i have planned out the finish to. it looks like from my test piece the finish that got both piece the closest was Arm-R-Seal. I wanted to use a water based but i really didn't like the look so oil is the way to go. hoping to have the table saw tuned up and a router table build onto it by next Tuesday so i can start the project. I should have the project finished by next friday. Thanks for reading and any comments will be appreciated.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #2*
> 
> Just a little update on the picture frame. i got the hickory today and have planned out all of my cuts. I am waiting until this weekend when i am supposed to get a table saw until i do any work. i have planned out the finish to. it looks like from my test piece the finish that got both piece the closest was Arm-R-Seal. I wanted to use a water based but i really didn't like the look so oil is the way to go. hoping to have the table saw tuned up and a router table build onto it by next Tuesday so i can start the project. I should have the project finished by next friday. Thanks for reading and any comments will be appreciated.


Keep us posted!


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #2*
> 
> Just a little update on the picture frame. i got the hickory today and have planned out all of my cuts. I am waiting until this weekend when i am supposed to get a table saw until i do any work. i have planned out the finish to. it looks like from my test piece the finish that got both piece the closest was Arm-R-Seal. I wanted to use a water based but i really didn't like the look so oil is the way to go. hoping to have the table saw tuned up and a router table build onto it by next Tuesday so i can start the project. I should have the project finished by next friday. Thanks for reading and any comments will be appreciated.


Buy the Festool Domino to join the miters!


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #2*
> 
> Just a little update on the picture frame. i got the hickory today and have planned out all of my cuts. I am waiting until this weekend when i am supposed to get a table saw until i do any work. i have planned out the finish to. it looks like from my test piece the finish that got both piece the closest was Arm-R-Seal. I wanted to use a water based but i really didn't like the look so oil is the way to go. hoping to have the table saw tuned up and a router table build onto it by next Tuesday so i can start the project. I should have the project finished by next friday. Thanks for reading and any comments will be appreciated.


oh, you're tempting me Todd. its a tongue and groove style though as the customers want it to match their kitchen cabinets.


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## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #2*
> 
> Just a little update on the picture frame. i got the hickory today and have planned out all of my cuts. I am waiting until this weekend when i am supposed to get a table saw until i do any work. i have planned out the finish to. it looks like from my test piece the finish that got both piece the closest was Arm-R-Seal. I wanted to use a water based but i really didn't like the look so oil is the way to go. hoping to have the table saw tuned up and a router table build onto it by next Tuesday so i can start the project. I should have the project finished by next friday. Thanks for reading and any comments will be appreciated.


Keep us posted!

Callum


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #2*
> 
> Just a little update on the picture frame. i got the hickory today and have planned out all of my cuts. I am waiting until this weekend when i am supposed to get a table saw until i do any work. i have planned out the finish to. it looks like from my test piece the finish that got both piece the closest was Arm-R-Seal. I wanted to use a water based but i really didn't like the look so oil is the way to go. hoping to have the table saw tuned up and a router table build onto it by next Tuesday so i can start the project. I should have the project finished by next friday. Thanks for reading and any comments will be appreciated.


It sounds like you have a real good grip on the time frames you have to get things done. The ability to do good planning is an admirable trait to have. Thanks for the posts and I look forward to seeing the blog/product of your work.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*Mirror Frame #3*

Well over the last two days i have been able to really get some good solid work done on my mirror frames. first i was able to mill all the lumber to final width.










then it was time to cut the piece. i don't have a long miter bed with a stop block so i used double stick tape to hold the rough identical pieces together to give me exactly the same piece. the first picture is putting the tape on and the second is all the piece cut to final length.



















Then i cut the groove in the first picture, the finished tongue in the second picture, and glued it up.




























after it was done drying i router a rabbit in the back to house the mirror, you can't really see it in the first picture but i made a mistake and went a little too far with the router. the second picture is after i made the repair.



















the repair was in the back so it wasn't much cosmetic it was because i wanted to have a structurally sound joint so i needed to put the wood back in there. so thats all for today. I should have the woodworking finished tomorrow and the finishing done by the end of the week. thanks for reading and all comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.


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## dlcarver (Mar 9, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #3*
> 
> Well over the last two days i have been able to really get some good solid work done on my mirror frames. first i was able to mill all the lumber to final width.
> 
> ...


you really know your stuff Dennis, good job.
Thanks Dave


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #3*
> 
> Well over the last two days i have been able to really get some good solid work done on my mirror frames. first i was able to mill all the lumber to final width.
> 
> ...


This is looking pretty good, Dennis.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #3*
> 
> Well over the last two days i have been able to really get some good solid work done on my mirror frames. first i was able to mill all the lumber to final width.
> 
> ...


thanks everyone. I just realized like 5 minutes ago that i forgot to put the chamfer on the edges. well i guess that I'll just have to go and get a v-groove bit to do it.


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## jockmike2 (Oct 10, 2006)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #3*
> 
> Well over the last two days i have been able to really get some good solid work done on my mirror frames. first i was able to mill all the lumber to final width.
> 
> ...


Nice job. mike


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #3*
> 
> Well over the last two days i have been able to really get some good solid work done on my mirror frames. first i was able to mill all the lumber to final width.
> 
> ...


Great work, Dennis

Lew


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## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #3*
> 
> Well over the last two days i have been able to really get some good solid work done on my mirror frames. first i was able to mill all the lumber to final width.
> 
> ...


that's all called design variations!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #3*
> 
> Well over the last two days i have been able to really get some good solid work done on my mirror frames. first i was able to mill all the lumber to final width.
> 
> ...


Very nice start.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #3*
> 
> Well over the last two days i have been able to really get some good solid work done on my mirror frames. first i was able to mill all the lumber to final width.
> 
> ...


Nice. Good repair. We all learn something with each new project.

About the chamfer, it you want to put a bevel on the outside edge, maybe best to get a chamfer bit. A chamfer bit has a bearing on the bottom, a V-groove does not and will require a fence. Either will do it, but the bearing is easier.

Steve


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #3*
> 
> Well over the last two days i have been able to really get some good solid work done on my mirror frames. first i was able to mill all the lumber to final width.
> 
> ...


steve, i have a chamfer bit the only problem is the intersection of the tongue and groove, there needs to be a chamfer there to so i need the v-groove bit to do that.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*Mirror Frame #4*

Well I'm nearing the end now, i've got a lot done in the last two days. not a whole lot physically but the details are really coming along good. i'll get right into it.

first i needed to cut a v groove at the intersection of the tongue and groove. i started by cutting a groove in the intersection area. then i chiseled away the waste to get a rough groove and finished it up with some sandpaper





































Then after that was done i put in the ebony peg. i will go more into that on an episode of the teen age woodworker that i want to have with simple inlays and accents you can do with very little tools.










now just a picture on me with the biggest frame so you get the jist of how it is going










So last after the pegs are in and the sanding is done i just need about 2 or 3 coats of danish oil and about 3 or 4 more coats of Arm-r-seal. thanks for reading my blog and i look forward to any comments or suggestions.


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## Treefarmer (Mar 19, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #4*
> 
> Well I'm nearing the end now, i've got a lot done in the last two days. not a whole lot physically but the details are really coming along good. i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


Very nice…great details


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #4*
> 
> Well I'm nearing the end now, i've got a lot done in the last two days. not a whole lot physically but the details are really coming along good. i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


Looking good. Some real nice design details.


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## acanthuscarver (Mar 27, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #4*
> 
> Well I'm nearing the end now, i've got a lot done in the last two days. not a whole lot physically but the details are really coming along good. i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


Excellent work. Been following the project with great interest. Keep up the good work.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #4*
> 
> Well I'm nearing the end now, i've got a lot done in the last two days. not a whole lot physically but the details are really coming along good. i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


thanks for the comments everyone.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #4*
> 
> Well I'm nearing the end now, i've got a lot done in the last two days. not a whole lot physically but the details are really coming along good. i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


Great work, Dennis!

I like the contrasting pegs.

Lew


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## jtdyal (May 29, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #4*
> 
> Well I'm nearing the end now, i've got a lot done in the last two days. not a whole lot physically but the details are really coming along good. i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


I like the chisling @ the joint a lot. My wife just took some frames back to the store that didn't even make it on to the wall they were so cheep. Yours look AWESOME


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #4*
> 
> Well I'm nearing the end now, i've got a lot done in the last two days. not a whole lot physically but the details are really coming along good. i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


thanks jtdyal, 
i just started finishing them and i have got to say that they are amazing. i took some pictures of the process and even though i have a 6 mega pixel camera the pictures put the actually finish to shame. its just so amazing.


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## Harold (Nov 13, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #4*
> 
> Well I'm nearing the end now, i've got a lot done in the last two days. not a whole lot physically but the details are really coming along good. i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


try and take your pictures early in the morning, or late afternoon. Natural lighting is an elusive necessity. I know very little in regards to photography but perhaps this would be a wonderful blog for those who would like share.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*Mirror Frame #5*

Well the frame is finally done and its time for the best part the finish 

so i started off as usual with a fresh frame sanded to 180










my first 3 coats were General Finishes Natural Danish oil and this really brings out all this hickory's got. i think that this is a prime example of how as Charles Neil stated in his video that the colors that really bring out the wood are the ambers and the yellows (not the exact statement but in the ball park) and i think this is a golden example of that. just to say this also i think that these pictures put this hickory to shame and do not capture the whole beauty of the wood.










next is for protection 3 coats of General Finishes Arm-r-Seal.










and last i rubbed the surface out with #00 steel wool and buffed it with a rag. why #00 and not something finer like #0000? well thats because i don't think that #0000 is coarse enough to smooth out the surface but i have found that the #00 takes down the dust but is still not coarse enough to leave any visible marks. this last step with the steel wool and the buffing produces a silky smooth surface that just makes you want to tell people to touch it (which i have done). So now here is a picture of me with the finished product, the big frame has the mirror in it but the small frame doesn't yet.










So this has been a really fun project but its time to move on and time for other commissions. i think that i have really made a quality piece here and met the requirements of both the finishing and building side of me. the tongue and grooves are nice and tight and shouldn't come apart until the glue life dies so i guess that that will be about 20 years or so of rock solid-ness (this is all with the glue, and when it fails I'm not sure if even they will come apart). also the v grooves were very nice, and with the finishing i have made a finish that a camera can not capture and is silky smooth to the touch. and i know that i have done a good job because there is a knot on the back of the larger frame and with this finish i think that even a knot would look great in a finished piece, lol! So overall this has been a fun project and i have learned a lot!

!


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## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #5*
> 
> Well the frame is finally done and its time for the best part the finish
> 
> ...


Go get 'em, Denny!


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #5*
> 
> Well the frame is finally done and its time for the best part the finish
> 
> ...


thanks Douglas!


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #5*
> 
> Well the frame is finally done and its time for the best part the finish
> 
> ...


Dennis,

You are doing well. You did a nice job on the frame and I really like your entrepreneurship. I am sure that your client will be satisfied with the frame. It is well built, you had a nice choice of wood and hickory is a beautiful wood when finished.

Well done.


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #5*
> 
> Well the frame is finally done and its time for the best part the finish
> 
> ...


Great craftsmanship Dennis!


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## jeanmarc (Mar 23, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Mirror Frame #5*
> 
> Well the frame is finally done and its time for the best part the finish
> 
> ...


very beautiful work


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*pull out trash box #1*

well here is my newest commission. it is for a pullout trash can thing. i have a couple of sketchup pictures of the box thing so here they are. the first one is of the box itself. the larger compartment is for the pullout trash can compartment, and the top is for a drawer that will be 4" deep. the whole thing will be made out of either oak of red oak. the costumer hasn't decided yet.










then here is the drawer. simple enough. 1/2" poplar dovetailed to make up the drawer and an applied 1/2" oak front.










then is the pullout thing. it pivots on hinges that are mounted on the front and just has a stop crewed in the side of the case so the trash can doesn't come out to far. the front is rail and stile with a raised panel in the middle but i tend on sketchup not to get to detailed i just used it to check proportions and to get an idea of how much lumber i will need.










so thats it for now. hoping to get the lumber either on friday or monday. i can get rough lumber too now that i have a planer and use a sled to mill it. it should be a fun project. have a nice day everyone!


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #1*
> 
> well here is my newest commission. it is for a pullout trash can thing. i have a couple of sketchup pictures of the box thing so here they are. the first one is of the box itself. the larger compartment is for the pullout trash can compartment, and the top is for a drawer that will be 4" deep. the whole thing will be made out of either oak of red oak. the costumer hasn't decided yet.
> 
> ...


Well, get busy!

Have fun.

Lee


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## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #1*
> 
> well here is my newest commission. it is for a pullout trash can thing. i have a couple of sketchup pictures of the box thing so here they are. the first one is of the box itself. the larger compartment is for the pullout trash can compartment, and the top is for a drawer that will be 4" deep. the whole thing will be made out of either oak of red oak. the costumer hasn't decided yet.
> 
> ...


Looks good!

Thanks for the post

Callum


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #1*
> 
> well here is my newest commission. it is for a pullout trash can thing. i have a couple of sketchup pictures of the box thing so here they are. the first one is of the box itself. the larger compartment is for the pullout trash can compartment, and the top is for a drawer that will be 4" deep. the whole thing will be made out of either oak of red oak. the costumer hasn't decided yet.
> 
> ...


I assume you will be buying more tools with the commission!!

Great job with Sketch Up.

Lew


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## steveosshop (Jun 21, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #1*
> 
> well here is my newest commission. it is for a pullout trash can thing. i have a couple of sketchup pictures of the box thing so here they are. the first one is of the box itself. the larger compartment is for the pullout trash can compartment, and the top is for a drawer that will be 4" deep. the whole thing will be made out of either oak of red oak. the costumer hasn't decided yet.
> 
> ...


Can't wait to see it finished. Good luck.


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## rhett (May 11, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #1*
> 
> well here is my newest commission. it is for a pullout trash can thing. i have a couple of sketchup pictures of the box thing so here they are. the first one is of the box itself. the larger compartment is for the pullout trash can compartment, and the top is for a drawer that will be 4" deep. the whole thing will be made out of either oak of red oak. the costumer hasn't decided yet.
> 
> ...


rev-a-shelf


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## jtdyal (May 29, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #1*
> 
> well here is my newest commission. it is for a pullout trash can thing. i have a couple of sketchup pictures of the box thing so here they are. the first one is of the box itself. the larger compartment is for the pullout trash can compartment, and the top is for a drawer that will be 4" deep. the whole thing will be made out of either oak of red oak. the costumer hasn't decided yet.
> 
> ...


Is this a stand alone? If so, the base may cause some problems on uneven floors. If not, why not use plywood?


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #1*
> 
> well here is my newest commission. it is for a pullout trash can thing. i have a couple of sketchup pictures of the box thing so here they are. the first one is of the box itself. the larger compartment is for the pullout trash can compartment, and the top is for a drawer that will be 4" deep. the whole thing will be made out of either oak of red oak. the costumer hasn't decided yet.
> 
> ...


All my "commissions" come from my wife, and they don't pay all that-well!


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #1*
> 
> well here is my newest commission. it is for a pullout trash can thing. i have a couple of sketchup pictures of the box thing so here they are. the first one is of the box itself. the larger compartment is for the pullout trash can compartment, and the top is for a drawer that will be 4" deep. the whole thing will be made out of either oak of red oak. the costumer hasn't decided yet.
> 
> ...


jtdyal, i considered using ply but it wouldn't be really cost effective for such a small project. i would use a little more than a 4×4 sheet so i would have to use an 8×4 sheet so it wouldn't be cost effective.


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #1*
> 
> well here is my newest commission. it is for a pullout trash can thing. i have a couple of sketchup pictures of the box thing so here they are. the first one is of the box itself. the larger compartment is for the pullout trash can compartment, and the top is for a drawer that will be 4" deep. the whole thing will be made out of either oak of red oak. the costumer hasn't decided yet.
> 
> ...


Looks like a good idea. You might want to put a back or back rails on it to make it resist racking.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #1*
> 
> well here is my newest commission. it is for a pullout trash can thing. i have a couple of sketchup pictures of the box thing so here they are. the first one is of the box itself. the larger compartment is for the pullout trash can compartment, and the top is for a drawer that will be 4" deep. the whole thing will be made out of either oak of red oak. the costumer hasn't decided yet.
> 
> ...


ya gizmodyne. just didn't put that in.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*pull out trash box #2*

hey everyone,
over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.










then i had the panels for the sides to glue up. those glued up nice giving me a minimal glue joint. then i put them through the planer to even the glue joints and bring the boards down to final size because they were glued up oversize. then i trimmed the ends square with my miter gauge




























then i cut the sliding dovetails in the case sides for the drawer runners to go. i don't have those done yet but i will have it done soon. i used a 14 degree 1/2" dovetail bit for this.










so here i am at the end of the day with the rails and stiles cut oversize so they can do their moving overnight and i can cut them to final dimensions tomorrow or Wednesday. and the boards that will be glued up for the raised panel. i wouldn't usually glue up for a panel but i doubt i can find a 16" board of sycamore and i can't mill it even if found one. i would bookmatch a piece of 8/4 sycamore too if i could but i don't have access to a bandsaw that big. and i'm left with a big pile of shavings, thats my 3' ruler in the pile and i am measuring about 11".



















so thats all for now. should have most done by Thursday and i am hoping to get most of it done before i go on vacation next week. have a nice rest of the day everyone!


----------



## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


Looking good!

Thanks for the post

Callum


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


We have to find you a small dust collector. That's not healthy for you.
Nice job BTW!

Bob


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


looks awesome Denis! in what part of the country do you live? do you think 'overnight' will be enough time to let the panels adjust to humidity and new dimensions?

P.S. you (or someone you know) can use all those shavings for garden mulch  just another way to recycle wood in a positive way


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


Hi Denis;

Nice work.
*
As Bob mentioned, you're going to affect your health without a dust collection system.*

The plans I posted for a router table fence will eliminate 95% of the sawdust I'm seeing in the picture, in addition to providing a much more useful fence in the process. That fence will give you the versatility of a 
$ 2,000.00 shaper, at a fraction of the cost.

Denis, I realize advice is not always easy to accept, but this is something I know, not suspect.

Do yourself a favor and make one. I assure you you will be glad you did.

Lee


----------



## Taigert (Nov 20, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


Denis,
Thats good work,

The guys are right about a way of collecting the saw dust, I hope you are at least wearing a resperator, if you screw up your lungs or develop an allergy to wood it will really shorten your career working with wood.


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


ya i was wearing a respirator. and thats all dust from that planer. so i'm not sure how the router fence will help. i'm planning on ordering a dust chute for my planer soon and i will just connect that up to my shop vac.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


Yep Dennis you need a dust collector--respirator or not all that dust in the air is not good for anyone in the house. Your mother (or whoever does the dusting) will appreciate a good dust collector.

With that said-- how is the sycamore working for you? I've not worked with it, but have admired it's looks from afar.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


Nice Work, Denis!

The new planer looks like it is working pretty good!

Lew


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


ya betsy, a dust collector is next on my list to get, as well as a scroll saw.

sycamore is working nice. its hard on the planer knives. but it works well and is very stable.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


Scroll saw? Now you're talking. I absolutely, immensely enjoy my scroll saw. You'll be amazed at the things you can do with it.

What do you plan to finish the sycamore with?


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


I'll probably die it up. i researched it and it said that it accepts dyes and stains well.

ya I've been looking to get a scroll saw for awhile. i want to work on my freehand inlays. straight isn't that hard and really limits your possibilities so i want to try curved. inlays are something I've really been wanting to try for a long time.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


Thats some nice progress.


----------



## Sac (Jun 14, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


Nice project. Could you get closer pictures of the "then i cut the sliding dovetails in the case sides for the drawer runners to go. i don't have those done yet but i will have it done soon. i used a 14 degree 1/2" dovetail bit for this." I prefer wooden guides. This seems to be a great way for furniture. Or is it not? Thanks


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


oh.. i should have explained that better. the sliding dovetail is for the wooden guides. i will cut the wooden guided oversize and put a sliding dovetail on the end to hold the actual wooden slides in place.


----------



## jeanmarc (Mar 23, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


Denis,
Thats good work,


----------



## Auntie (Oct 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #2*
> 
> hey everyone,
> over the last couple of days i have been able to get a lot done in terms of milling up the lumber and gluing up panels. i chose sycamore for the trash box because it is a hard wood as opposed to the pine that i was going to use before. there was a sale at the lumberyard on sycamore and it was less per bf than a select 1 board of pine. so the purchase made sense. first i got my lumber and let it sit for awhile and then milled it up. the first picture is of a rough board and a finished board next to it.
> ...


I am the proud recipient of the trash bucket cabinet. If you think the photos look good, you should see the actual finished product. It is absolutely beautiful!!! I know how talented Denis is, but he outdid himself on this project. I have been looking for a cabinet to hold my trash bucket for quite some time and all the ones I have seen in the stores were not well made and very pricey. So I described to Denis what I was looking for and he went right to work. He even matched the stain to my kitchen island!! I agree with the person who posted a comment saying it looks too nice to hold trash, but the point of the cabinet it to hide the ugly plastic trash container and this is the perfect solution. No one will believe that such a beautiful piece of furniture holds the trash container!!! Denis is a truly gifted, talented and humble young man whom I adore!! Oh, did I mention that I am Denny's aunt/godmother?? Anyways, thank you buddy, you are awesome and I am so proud of you!!
P.S. I had Denis sign and date the inside of the cabinet; I now have a Denis "original" Great work!!!!


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*pull out trash box #3*

well i had some really good shop time today and got alot done. a lot of pictures so i will try to keep text to a minimum. as always first i started off cutting the board to manageable pieces. then milled them 1/8" heavy and let them do their moving and took them down to final size when i needed them.



















then i needed to glue up the panel for the top and here i am doing a dry glue up to get everything ready. after the glue up was done and the glue dried i took the panel out. flushed the joints with a block plane, sanded, took the panel to final size and cut the profiles.










then i made the drawer runners and cut the sliding dovetails into them to hold them.



















then in the picture above at the bottom you can see a kick plate. this was cut to 3/4" and rabbeted 1/4" to give some more structural support. this will have the hinges on it and since the door is 1/2" thick the 1/4" rabbet leaves it flush with the door and gives it a bit or hold in the back. its just screwed on, to be plugged with ebony later.

the i cut pocket holes in the case sides to hold the top. and then a picture of what i got done today.



















thats all for today. tomorrow i will plan on making the door and beginning cutting the dovetails. also i will make and fit the drawer. might even get to finish the drawer sides by spraying a few coats of shellac on. so till tomorrow, have a nice day everyone!


----------



## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #3*
> 
> well i had some really good shop time today and got alot done. a lot of pictures so i will try to keep text to a minimum. as always first i started off cutting the board to manageable pieces. then milled them 1/8" heavy and let them do their moving and took them down to final size when i needed them.
> 
> ...


Looking good. Keep on!


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #3*
> 
> well i had some really good shop time today and got alot done. a lot of pictures so i will try to keep text to a minimum. as always first i started off cutting the board to manageable pieces. then milled them 1/8" heavy and let them do their moving and took them down to final size when i needed them.
> 
> ...


It's great to see you stepping up to commission work so soon in your woodworking career. I am can't wait to see the finished cabinet.


----------



## jeanmarc (Mar 23, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #3*
> 
> well i had some really good shop time today and got alot done. a lot of pictures so i will try to keep text to a minimum. as always first i started off cutting the board to manageable pieces. then milled them 1/8" heavy and let them do their moving and took them down to final size when i needed them.
> 
> ...


good job


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #3*
> 
> well i had some really good shop time today and got alot done. a lot of pictures so i will try to keep text to a minimum. as always first i started off cutting the board to manageable pieces. then milled them 1/8" heavy and let them do their moving and took them down to final size when i needed them.
> 
> ...


Hi Dennis;

It's just not right for a "teenage woodworker"to be making us "pros" look bad.

I think you should knock it off. It's embarrassing. lol

Great work.

Lee


----------



## darryl (Jul 22, 2006)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #3*
> 
> well i had some really good shop time today and got alot done. a lot of pictures so i will try to keep text to a minimum. as always first i started off cutting the board to manageable pieces. then milled them 1/8" heavy and let them do their moving and took them down to final size when i needed them.
> 
> ...


That looks great so far TeenWW, can't wait to see it finished.


----------



## woodnot (Jul 3, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #3*
> 
> well i had some really good shop time today and got alot done. a lot of pictures so i will try to keep text to a minimum. as always first i started off cutting the board to manageable pieces. then milled them 1/8" heavy and let them do their moving and took them down to final size when i needed them.
> 
> ...


Impresive start- looks great. Look forward to seeing it finished.


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #3*
> 
> well i had some really good shop time today and got alot done. a lot of pictures so i will try to keep text to a minimum. as always first i started off cutting the board to manageable pieces. then milled them 1/8" heavy and let them do their moving and took them down to final size when i needed them.
> 
> ...


Really looking good. You sure make the most of your shop time.


----------



## Billboard (Apr 10, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #3*
> 
> well i had some really good shop time today and got alot done. a lot of pictures so i will try to keep text to a minimum. as always first i started off cutting the board to manageable pieces. then milled them 1/8" heavy and let them do their moving and took them down to final size when i needed them.
> 
> ...


So far so good. I know you have had a great summer in your shop and I bet you are not looking forward to school.


----------



## Sac (Jun 14, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #3*
> 
> well i had some really good shop time today and got alot done. a lot of pictures so i will try to keep text to a minimum. as always first i started off cutting the board to manageable pieces. then milled them 1/8" heavy and let them do their moving and took them down to final size when i needed them.
> 
> ...


Look great Dennis. Nice work.


----------



## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #3*
> 
> well i had some really good shop time today and got alot done. a lot of pictures so i will try to keep text to a minimum. as always first i started off cutting the board to manageable pieces. then milled them 1/8" heavy and let them do their moving and took them down to final size when i needed them.
> 
> ...


Looking good!

Thanks for the post

Callum


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*pull out trash box #4 (finish)*

So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.










then i sprayed all the pieces with 2 coats of dark wine cherry dye.










and for my topcoat i sprayed on 5 coats of shellac followed by 2 coats of gel poly. you have to use gel poly here because it is made to sit on the surface so scuff up the shellac to create something for it to stick to and put it on. you can't use regular poly because it is made to soak into the wood and that can't happen because the shellac is down. the shellac though protects the dyes from being disturbed when you rub on the gel poly.










then i put what was prefinished together. and installed the drawer using little fillers because i messed up on the dovetails and had to recut them but thats a story for another time.




























so thats what i have for now. i still need to put on the drawer front and the pullout door. so that should be done by next week. i also still have one coat of gel poly to do. just to tie everything together like the different intersections. so the ploy does look a little rough right now but thats because i still have one more coat to do. hope everyone liked it, and i hope everyone has a nice day.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #4 (finish)*
> 
> So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
> 
> ...


Looking good. You are really progressing with this craft.

Bob


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #4 (finish)*
> 
> So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
> 
> ...


hey, from what shows - those dovetails look pretty good  what is the drawer made of ?


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #4 (finish)*
> 
> So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
> 
> ...


the drawer is poplar. in the next installment i cover the drawers. i did them on my D4R


----------



## Bigbuck (May 15, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #4 (finish)*
> 
> So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
> 
> ...


Looking good


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #4 (finish)*
> 
> So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
> 
> ...


Nice Job, Denis!!

How do you like using the sprayer?

Lew


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #4 (finish)*
> 
> So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
> 
> ...


its nice. you can get very nice and even finishes! and the layered effects. its nice!


----------



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #4 (finish)*
> 
> So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
> 
> ...


wow Denis, your progression and craftsmanship have come along way, this is looking fantastic…and I like your finishing.You are certainly on track to become one of the finest craftsmen this craft has seen .I am sooooo impressed


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #4 (finish)*
> 
> So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
> 
> ...


Hi Dennis;

As has already been expressed, you are developing in this craft rather quickly.

Nice job.

Lee


----------



## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #4 (finish)*
> 
> So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
> 
> ...


Great job!

Thanks for the post

Callum


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #4 (finish)*
> 
> So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
> 
> ...


Dennis this is coming along nicely. You are really doing well.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #4 (finish)*
> 
> So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
> 
> ...


Nice trash box Dennis, you did a good job.


----------



## SplinteredBoard (Jul 11, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #4 (finish)*
> 
> So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
> 
> ...


Wow! It's really starting to look great! Great job!


----------



## jeanmarc (Mar 23, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #4 (finish)*
> 
> So here is the entry of my pull out trash can box thing where i show the finish. due to prefinishing i have already done most of the finishing and put some parts together so i figured i would show that now. and then next week i will probably have the finished project up. so to start of course i sanded the piece to 180. i would not recommend using sycamore with hand tools. it doesn't work well at all, and its hard to tell which way the grain is running. dovetails are really hard with sycamore. then i sprayed the whole piece yellow to create an even backround.
> 
> ...


*NICE JOB.LOOKING GOOD*


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*pull out trash box #5*

well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.




























then i worked on the pull out thing for the trash can. glued together the rail and stile door with the panel prefinished. the picture though is of the dry fit. forgot to take a picture of the actual glue up.










then it was time to attach the bottom for the trash barrel to sit on. thought long and hard about how to do this. i chose a reverse dovetail to stick up to the downward pressure and i will add corner blocks later to help with shear strength. first i milled the pins into the board that the trash barrel will sit on. used my dovetail jig to make sure that the pins were straight square and everything. also had to repair a little chip out.



















next i needed to cut the TAILS half blind into the door. first i marked it. freehanded it with a router to about 1/16" - 1/32" away from the line. then i used a few reference guided to make sure that everything would come out square and even and all that good stuff.



















the i finished the rail and stile portion of the door. it was challenging but not really hard. i got the color pretty close










last i glued the bottom onto the door. haven't added the corner blocks yet. going to install them on delivery day to make sure that they are not in the barrels way.










so thanks everyone for bearing with me. this was a little on the long side so i figured that i would get it out now before more things piled up. so thanks for your time, any comments, questions, advice, or whatever you want to say will be greatly appreciated. have a nice day!


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #5*
> 
> well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.
> 
> ...


Denis,

Very Nice Work!! Your abilities grow with each project.

Lew


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #5*
> 
> well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.
> 
> ...


Nice work - it's coming along pretty well, looking better and better with each post! nice color !


----------



## Bigbuck (May 15, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #5*
> 
> well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.
> 
> ...


Very nice, it is looking great.


----------



## jtdyal (May 29, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #5*
> 
> well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.
> 
> ...


Very nice! School slowing you down? Did you glue the drawer up already? Are you gona make the pull handles for the drawers? You will need some large corner blocks to hold up the weight want you?


----------



## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #5*
> 
> well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.
> 
> ...


Great job!

Thanks for the post

Callum


----------



## darryl (Jul 22, 2006)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #5*
> 
> well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.
> 
> ...


wow! that's looking really good.


----------



## Billboard (Apr 10, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #5*
> 
> well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.
> 
> ...


Looks great, I think it's going to be too pretty to put trash in.


----------



## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #5*
> 
> well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.
> 
> ...


Nice work. I hope the recipient will be pleased with the results. I know I would be.


----------



## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #5*
> 
> well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.
> 
> ...


Coming along great. Thanks for the update.


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #5*
> 
> well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.
> 
> ...


jtdyal, school hasn't started yet thanks goodness but summer reading is slowing me down (most pointless thing ever, they just want to make us miserable). the drawers glued up. i have handles just haven't put them on yet because there is some more finishing to do. and i think the dovetails along with the corner blocks and the glue holding the dovetails it should be pretty hard to loosen this up.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #5*
> 
> well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.
> 
> ...


Hi Dennis;

You are a natural!

Keep up the good work.

Lee


----------



## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #5*
> 
> well here is the second to last entry in my pull out trash box series. this will cover the rest of the construction and the next entry will cover the finished project. so lets jump right in. i left off with the rest of the thing prefinished and showing the drawer in it. just milled up the drawer front. and finished and attached it. simple enough. the drawer bottom isn't in yet and you might notice that the color is a bit different. thats because the gel poly isn't on yet.
> 
> ...


you truly are amazing! Fantastic job


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*pull out trash box #6 done (sort of)*

well here is the final post in my pull out trash box thing series. figure i'll get right into it.

first i started by adding some 45 blocks to the place where the trash can sits. i had to notch it because that drilling would have been pretty hard without a drill press. i notched it a bit to much though. and i used brass screws. why? because they were the only ones that were short enough to not go through my surface. but to sound smart just in-case someone missed the bucket its good that it won't rust 










then put on the brass hinges










and the stop blocks for the door coming out. the trash can is about 12" long so i gave it 13" so you can have some room to get the trash can out and/or change the bag. just make sure that you orient the grain so the expansion and contraction doesn't chance your setting. not that big of a deal in this situation but just good to remember.










last some pictures of the almost finished piece. have one more coat of gel poly to go. should have the finished project posted by the end of the week. you may notice that there are no handles. the costumer wants to pick out here own to make sure that they match her cabinets. they will be installed when i give it to her.





































well i hope that everyone liked this series. i look forward to any comments, questions, suggestions, or whatever anyone else has to say. can't wait until my next commissions!


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #6 done (sort of)*
> 
> well here is the final post in my pull out trash box thing series. figure i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


Looks good, Denis. I notice the drawer tips down when extended, what type of drawer slides are you going to use?


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #6 done (sort of)*
> 
> well here is the final post in my pull out trash box thing series. figure i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


no drawer slides. you need a little tip or else you'll wear all the finish on the drawer out. the picture makes it look like it has a lot more tip that it does. didn't really notice that before but there isn't really that much tip.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #6 done (sort of)*
> 
> well here is the final post in my pull out trash box thing series. figure i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


Looks real nice! nice finish.

how are the stop blocks fastened? and how strong are the hinges? depending on what kind of trash this will be used for- there can be quite a bit of load on the mechanics here - just something to think about.


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #6 done (sort of)*
> 
> well here is the final post in my pull out trash box thing series. figure i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


ya, I'm taking that into consideration. their trash can is about as big as ours so when our bucket is full I'm gonna weigh it and put that much weight on it to check and leave it over night that way.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #6 done (sort of)*
> 
> well here is the final post in my pull out trash box thing series. figure i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


Your comming along well fella. 
You are showing some creativity with your design and trying different things to overcome your diffculties. 
I like to see some cross bracing at the back to prevent wracking. 
What are your thoughts here?

Bob


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #6 done (sort of)*
> 
> well here is the final post in my pull out trash box thing series. figure i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


sounds good. i was planning on doing something along the lines of that. when i went back over the piece i found that i forgot to mention a few things so it looks like yet another blog may be on the way.


----------



## darryl (Jul 22, 2006)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #6 done (sort of)*
> 
> well here is the final post in my pull out trash box thing series. figure i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


it's a really nice looking piece TeenWW.
I wouldn't mind one of these myself… just wish I had somewhere to put one!


----------



## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *pull out trash box #6 done (sort of)*
> 
> well here is the final post in my pull out trash box thing series. figure i'll get right into it.
> 
> ...


Looking good!

Thanks for the post

Callum


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*money box #1*

hey everyone,
just got a commission from the club that i am in for school to build a money box for when we have bake sales and other various sales. I am planning on making it out of Jatoba because thats what i have around right now. i am planning on dying it up and everything too. so first i started by milling the lumber down to a little under 3/8" and a little over 5/16ths. i am using such thin material so i could get as much lumber out of my lumber. i resawed the rough boards on my bandsaw and milled them down. here is a picture of everything milled and cut to length all laid out for the dovetails.










then i cleaned up the insides with my number 3 and a card scraper because clean up over the pins after the dovetails are cut will mess with the fit










then i cut the dovetails. i cut them on my Leigh D4R. not much room for creativity on these small pieces.










then i cut all the various corresponding slots in all the sides for the different compartments to hold the money.










last today i glues up all the dovetails. the slots are all lining up from what i can tell. there is no bottom because that will go in later. wish i could have put it in now but i have to finish it and everything and just putting it in later will make the whole thing a whole lot easier. the bottom will be poplar. should be able to color it close to the jatoba which will be colored too










so thats it for now. sometime in the next few days i will go over making the dividers as well as the lid and last the finish. pretty simple project but its a fun one too.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #1*
> 
> hey everyone,
> just got a commission from the club that i am in for school to build a money box for when we have bake sales and other various sales. I am planning on making it out of Jatoba because thats what i have around right now. i am planning on dying it up and everything too. so first i started by milling the lumber down to a little under 3/8" and a little over 5/16ths. i am using such thin material so i could get as much lumber out of my lumber. i resawed the rough boards on my bandsaw and milled them down. here is a picture of everything milled and cut to length all laid out for the dovetails.
> ...


Denis,

Man, that's a lot of work in a short period of time. You must be getting good at setting up that dovetail jig!!

Maybe I am looking at it wrong, but it looks like one of the slots, for the bottom, goes completely thru the end dovetail. Would a stopped dado have been better there?

Lew


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #1*
> 
> hey everyone,
> just got a commission from the club that i am in for school to build a money box for when we have bake sales and other various sales. I am planning on making it out of Jatoba because thats what i have around right now. i am planning on dying it up and everything too. so first i started by milling the lumber down to a little under 3/8" and a little over 5/16ths. i am using such thin material so i could get as much lumber out of my lumber. i resawed the rough boards on my bandsaw and milled them down. here is a picture of everything milled and cut to length all laid out for the dovetails.
> ...


thanks lew

and no unfortunately you're looking at it right. that never occured to me until after i was in dry fit. i think i will try to cut a little strip that can go in there. when it is died you won't be able to see such a small patch.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #1*
> 
> hey everyone,
> just got a commission from the club that i am in for school to build a money box for when we have bake sales and other various sales. I am planning on making it out of Jatoba because thats what i have around right now. i am planning on dying it up and everything too. so first i started by milling the lumber down to a little under 3/8" and a little over 5/16ths. i am using such thin material so i could get as much lumber out of my lumber. i resawed the rough boards on my bandsaw and milled them down. here is a picture of everything milled and cut to length all laid out for the dovetails.
> ...


Nice work Dennis.


----------



## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #1*
> 
> hey everyone,
> just got a commission from the club that i am in for school to build a money box for when we have bake sales and other various sales. I am planning on making it out of Jatoba because thats what i have around right now. i am planning on dying it up and everything too. so first i started by milling the lumber down to a little under 3/8" and a little over 5/16ths. i am using such thin material so i could get as much lumber out of my lumber. i resawed the rough boards on my bandsaw and milled them down. here is a picture of everything milled and cut to length all laid out for the dovetails.
> ...


Nice start please keep us posted?


----------



## mhawkins2 (Aug 18, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #1*
> 
> hey everyone,
> just got a commission from the club that i am in for school to build a money box for when we have bake sales and other various sales. I am planning on making it out of Jatoba because thats what i have around right now. i am planning on dying it up and everything too. so first i started by milling the lumber down to a little under 3/8" and a little over 5/16ths. i am using such thin material so i could get as much lumber out of my lumber. i resawed the rough boards on my bandsaw and milled them down. here is a picture of everything milled and cut to length all laid out for the dovetails.
> ...


I am finishing a piece with Jatoba currently and the it looks great with just a few coats of Waterlox applied with cheese cloth.

Nice work with the dove tails and I really like the planing board you have there.


----------



## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #1*
> 
> hey everyone,
> just got a commission from the club that i am in for school to build a money box for when we have bake sales and other various sales. I am planning on making it out of Jatoba because thats what i have around right now. i am planning on dying it up and everything too. so first i started by milling the lumber down to a little under 3/8" and a little over 5/16ths. i am using such thin material so i could get as much lumber out of my lumber. i resawed the rough boards on my bandsaw and milled them down. here is a picture of everything milled and cut to length all laid out for the dovetails.
> ...


Looking good!

Thanks for the post

Callum


----------



## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #1*
> 
> hey everyone,
> just got a commission from the club that i am in for school to build a money box for when we have bake sales and other various sales. I am planning on making it out of Jatoba because thats what i have around right now. i am planning on dying it up and everything too. so first i started by milling the lumber down to a little under 3/8" and a little over 5/16ths. i am using such thin material so i could get as much lumber out of my lumber. i resawed the rough boards on my bandsaw and milled them down. here is a picture of everything milled and cut to length all laid out for the dovetails.
> ...


Good work Dennis. It looks like it will come out great.


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #1*
> 
> hey everyone,
> just got a commission from the club that i am in for school to build a money box for when we have bake sales and other various sales. I am planning on making it out of Jatoba because thats what i have around right now. i am planning on dying it up and everything too. so first i started by milling the lumber down to a little under 3/8" and a little over 5/16ths. i am using such thin material so i could get as much lumber out of my lumber. i resawed the rough boards on my bandsaw and milled them down. here is a picture of everything milled and cut to length all laid out for the dovetails.
> ...


mhawkins2
i don't know you must have a nice piece of jatoba there. i've tried a few natural finishes on a test piece and i don't like it that much. i know it will be better when it ages but i can bring it to color now. gonna make it really red. with just a hint or brown. should look nice.


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #1*
> 
> hey everyone,
> just got a commission from the club that i am in for school to build a money box for when we have bake sales and other various sales. I am planning on making it out of Jatoba because thats what i have around right now. i am planning on dying it up and everything too. so first i started by milling the lumber down to a little under 3/8" and a little over 5/16ths. i am using such thin material so i could get as much lumber out of my lumber. i resawed the rough boards on my bandsaw and milled them down. here is a picture of everything milled and cut to length all laid out for the dovetails.
> ...


Hi Denis;

So far, so good.

Lee


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #1*
> 
> hey everyone,
> just got a commission from the club that i am in for school to build a money box for when we have bake sales and other various sales. I am planning on making it out of Jatoba because thats what i have around right now. i am planning on dying it up and everything too. so first i started by milling the lumber down to a little under 3/8" and a little over 5/16ths. i am using such thin material so i could get as much lumber out of my lumber. i resawed the rough boards on my bandsaw and milled them down. here is a picture of everything milled and cut to length all laid out for the dovetails.
> ...


hey Dennis - looking good.


----------



## Billboard (Apr 10, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #1*
> 
> hey everyone,
> just got a commission from the club that i am in for school to build a money box for when we have bake sales and other various sales. I am planning on making it out of Jatoba because thats what i have around right now. i am planning on dying it up and everything too. so first i started by milling the lumber down to a little under 3/8" and a little over 5/16ths. i am using such thin material so i could get as much lumber out of my lumber. i resawed the rough boards on my bandsaw and milled them down. here is a picture of everything milled and cut to length all laid out for the dovetails.
> ...


good job. cant wait for the finish.


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*money box #2*

So i finally got some work done today on my box. first i started by making the bottom. because i am using thick material for the sides i wanted to add some rigidness to the box so it is a 1/2" thick poplar bottom and i did the bevel with a hand plane. rather than set up machinery or anything.










then it was time to focus on the dividers. these are hard because they are very thin stock and to get them good they have to fit right. so what i did was cut them and did almost what resembles a half lap joint just using my table saw. it takes a lot of setup to get everything right but the result is worth it. here is a picture of the first joint done.










now i know what at this moment you are probably all thinking. expansion and contraction isn't going to be nice to those pieces. so here's my solution.










i just cut the slots longer than they needed to be and since the joint fits the hole to allow for expansion and contraction will not be exposed. i have not finished all the dividers but i figured I'd give a quick update. i am also going to route and chisel out a hollow in the lid to allow the dividers to expand and contract without causing any problems with closing the lid. so next time will probably be finish and i will show the bottom of the box finished. not much going on with the lid. attaching the hinges in such thin stock it really the only other cool thing after the finish. so i hope that everyone likes it and hope that everyone has a nice rest of the week.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #2*
> 
> So i finally got some work done today on my box. first i started by making the bottom. because i am using thick material for the sides i wanted to add some rigidness to the box so it is a 1/2" thick poplar bottom and i did the bevel with a hand plane. rather than set up machinery or anything.
> 
> ...


Nice work Denis! Planing the bottom is a neat trick. I saw it used on a very old (125 year+) table that my mom gave me. (no, she is not that old- it belonged to her mothers mother!)


----------



## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #2*
> 
> So i finally got some work done today on my box. first i started by making the bottom. because i am using thick material for the sides i wanted to add some rigidness to the box so it is a 1/2" thick poplar bottom and i did the bevel with a hand plane. rather than set up machinery or anything.
> 
> ...


Hi Denis;

Looks like your woodworking skills are moving forward very quickly. Nice work!

Lee


----------



## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #2*
> 
> So i finally got some work done today on my box. first i started by making the bottom. because i am using thick material for the sides i wanted to add some rigidness to the box so it is a 1/2" thick poplar bottom and i did the bevel with a hand plane. rather than set up machinery or anything.
> 
> ...


Looking good!

Thanks for the post

Callum


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *money box #2*
> 
> So i finally got some work done today on my box. first i started by making the bottom. because i am using thick material for the sides i wanted to add some rigidness to the box so it is a 1/2" thick poplar bottom and i did the bevel with a hand plane. rather than set up machinery or anything.
> 
> ...


Nice progress Denis.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*Contemporary Bed*

Hey Guys.

i've been building this contemporary bed for about 2 weeks now and I finally have something work posting. This bed is built out of a combination of plywood and poplar as it is to be painted. It has 6 drawers under the piece as well. So to start off The actual bed area where the drawers are is made out of plywood made in a very similar manner to cabinets. More or less it is just 3 cabinets that are screwed together so they can be taken apart later if Need be.



















As you can see in this picture I've already started fitting the drawers that are just made out of poplar. The customer wanted the drawers to be large to maximize the space but he couldn't justify the cost of the deep drawer slides so we ended up going with just regular drawers.



















but as you can see there is something that looks like a compartment at the end. What that is is more or less a full extension for drawers. If you are doing a very large drawer this is the best way to give it full extension without using drawer slides. That little compartment will never be seen as the drawer stops will be placed to stop at the first divider. Therefore a larger drawer will have a good foot still remaining inside the bed when it is fully extended to the extent of its holding capacity.










also if you notice how the bottom is a different wood. Since its a drawer bottom its not a big deal but it was the best stuff that I could find for the drawer bottoms. It was 15 dollars a sheet and has one face which is flawless. It's a good deal.










well that's all I have for now. Maybe there will be more saturday or sunday when I start to fit and finish the face frames for the bed as well as the head and foot board which are to come as well.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


It's great you've got a commissioned job and looks like it's coming along very well. Good Job Denis


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


Nice work Denis!


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## rhett (May 11, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


Nice job, having seen your work I am sure it will turn out great.

I would like to give you some food for thought. Blocking off the back of the drawer to fake a full extension is wasting space that is already there and could be used. I don't believe the look is worth loosing all that storage. With 6 deep drawers, by blocking off the last 1/4 of space, you are loosing an entire drawer and a halfs worth of space. Most people who commission storage pieces want every inch of storage they can get, convienent or not. JMHO


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


rhett…. i thought that over and the problem with using the whole drawer is that you really can't use it. With a drawer this big (48") to have the whole drawer out when it is full would have huge forces exerted on the end of the drawer. It could cause the back to pull off or get loose and same with the front. So that's why I want to leave part of it in the case at all times. It will prevent against that as well as make sure the drawer doesn't sag to much on its way out or fall out of the slot. There really is no good way to do a 30+ inch drawer and have the whole thing out especially when full… unfortunately. The drawer slide that were within his budget were only 30" any ways. So we are still getting 6" more space per drawer plus it brought the price down a bit.


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## Eli (Mar 3, 2010)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


Quit being sneaky, Denis. I see 6 secret compartments. Well done.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


haha… thanks Eli. But they're not much of a secret now!


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## rhett (May 11, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


I must not understand how you are trying to use the slides. A mechanical slide carries 100% of the load 100% of the time, whether it"s extended or not. The load rating is based on an extended cantilever. If the drawer is heavy enough to break the slide its going to break the slide. If that is even a possibility you may want to rethink the plan. I know your work isn't going to be the weak link in this scenerio, the hardware is. That being said, if the hardware fails then your work will look like the weak link. I am only trying to help as this is a a road I have been down.

What a customer wants and what a customer can afford are rarely the same. Now you have to charge extra for putting in the secret compartments.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


ohhh… I see… I'm not using the mechanical slides. It runs in the opening like a regular drawer. There's nothing mechanical. That's why I have the extra space so that the drawer doesn't tip. Like an extension of the drawer. No drawer slides.


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## rhett (May 11, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


Now we are on the same page.


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## jlsmith5963 (Mar 26, 2009)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


plywood, poplar, and oh dear are those screw heads… it's enough to make someone break out in hives…


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


yep I'm breaking out in hives right now


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## OutPutter (Jun 23, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


If I'm reading this right, you're making a Full size bed or larger. That means that the drawers don't reach the other side of the bed but, they're pretty close unless you've got a King sized bed. So, could you push the drawers out the other side to access the back compartment? If you don't like that idea, think about this. You say that the back of the drawer can't be reached unless the drawer is fully extended but, actually, it can. The back of the drawer can be reached with a stick or hook or even a long armed customer couldn't it? So, why not prevent full extension and let the back be usable but inconvenient space?

Don't you just love the way people like to redesign your projects for you? By the way, how did the Bubinga projects turn out? Did I miss them?


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


OutPutter… it's been redesigned a few times by the guys over at the 207 so it's fine by me. The bed actually goes up against a wall so that is why I am doing the large drawers in the first place. Otherwise they would probably be coming from both sides so 12 drawers.

Also as far as the Bubinga projects they are put aside for now since I have a few good paying projects lined up and more in the works. So of course I gotta make money and I can't pass up good paying jobs these days.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


Good to see your projects, again, Denis!!

I thought maybe that girlfriend was taking up all your time ;^)

Lew


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to the finish. Looks good so far.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

*Contemporary Bed #2*

Well there's not much time for a large write up today. I'm just sharing some picture. The bed is nearing completion. All that I am doing as of now is working on the face fraces as well as the final fitting of the drawers. I'm hoping to complete it this weekend. We should have nice weather so that will help me out. After this though it's right on to another commission. Some wall mounted Bubinga writing shelves!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed #2*
> 
> Well there's not much time for a large write up today. I'm just sharing some picture. The bed is nearing completion. All that I am doing as of now is working on the face fraces as well as the final fitting of the drawers. I'm hoping to complete it this weekend. We should have nice weather so that will help me out. After this though it's right on to another commission. Some wall mounted Bubinga writing shelves!


Looks good, Dennis.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed #2*
> 
> Well there's not much time for a large write up today. I'm just sharing some picture. The bed is nearing completion. All that I am doing as of now is working on the face fraces as well as the final fitting of the drawers. I'm hoping to complete it this weekend. We should have nice weather so that will help me out. After this though it's right on to another commission. Some wall mounted Bubinga writing shelves!


Good work Denis a couple years and you can take over for Charles


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed #2*
> 
> Well there's not much time for a large write up today. I'm just sharing some picture. The bed is nearing completion. All that I am doing as of now is working on the face fraces as well as the final fitting of the drawers. I'm hoping to complete it this weekend. We should have nice weather so that will help me out. After this though it's right on to another commission. Some wall mounted Bubinga writing shelves!


Looks like you had to move out of the workshop for this project. At least you didn't have to try to figure out how to get it up the basement stairs- not that I would know anything about that!

Great work, Denis!!

Lew


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed #2*
> 
> Well there's not much time for a large write up today. I'm just sharing some picture. The bed is nearing completion. All that I am doing as of now is working on the face fraces as well as the final fitting of the drawers. I'm hoping to complete it this weekend. We should have nice weather so that will help me out. After this though it's right on to another commission. Some wall mounted Bubinga writing shelves!


Nice work Denis.

Lee


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## DAWG (Oct 23, 2009)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed #2*
> 
> Well there's not much time for a large write up today. I'm just sharing some picture. The bed is nearing completion. All that I am doing as of now is working on the face fraces as well as the final fitting of the drawers. I'm hoping to complete it this weekend. We should have nice weather so that will help me out. After this though it's right on to another commission. Some wall mounted Bubinga writing shelves!


Looks great, thanks for sharing.


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed #2*
> 
> Well there's not much time for a large write up today. I'm just sharing some picture. The bed is nearing completion. All that I am doing as of now is working on the face fraces as well as the final fitting of the drawers. I'm hoping to complete it this weekend. We should have nice weather so that will help me out. After this though it's right on to another commission. Some wall mounted Bubinga writing shelves!


Excellent Denis


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

teenagewoodworker said:


> *Contemporary Bed #2*
> 
> Well there's not much time for a large write up today. I'm just sharing some picture. The bed is nearing completion. All that I am doing as of now is working on the face fraces as well as the final fitting of the drawers. I'm hoping to complete it this weekend. We should have nice weather so that will help me out. After this though it's right on to another commission. Some wall mounted Bubinga writing shelves!


Looking good Dennis.


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