# Board stretcher



## RyRat (Apr 2, 2014)

I have a few 7' board that I need to be 8'. Since I can't seem to find this board stretcher I keep hearing about, I need to use some sort of joinery. What would be best to accomplish this? It doesn't need to be super structurally sound, just enough to hold its own weight. This will also be painted in the end, so I'm not worried about matching grain or anything.


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## bobasaurus (Sep 6, 2009)

Scarf joint? https://www.google.com/search?q=scarf+joint&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=SAg_U9PHKZLgsASQj4LYBA&ved=0CDUQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=896


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## lateralus819 (Mar 24, 2013)

Fill up a buck of steam, and try pouring it over it. Maybe it can loosen the fibers enough to where you can then use the board stretcher.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

What does 'hold it's own weight' mean. Are you using the board horizontally like a shelf? Since a lot of wood trim from the Borg is short pieces finger jointed together then approximating that would be a safe bet.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

Right off the bat lap joints, as well as tongue & groove leap to mind. There is also the mortise and tenon, and even dovetails…

For simplicity sake though, a lap / half lap joint would be the way to go. Easy to do, strong, and at least somewhat attractive.. Use a good quality glue and the wood will fail around the glue joint long before the actual joint fails.


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## RyRat (Apr 2, 2014)

I was thinking about a tongue and groove, but a lap joint looks like it will be the strongest / easiest way to go.

When it's all said and done, the piece will be fully supported from the bottom, I just wanted it to be strong enough to move around the shop until final installation. That's all I meant by supporting its own weight.

Thanks all!


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

You already have the ideas,

Welcome to Lumberjocks


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

How about a spline joint?


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

If you have a jointer and band saw, you can make a diagonal
rip, joint, and shift the two parts so you get 8', You'll lose
some width. I've done this once of twice but only casually
for things that didn't matter a lot and I am not sure what 
the optimal angle is.


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## SWCPres (Mar 19, 2014)

End to End Joining is best done by a finger joint or a T&G. A Lap joint will hold, but would be more prone to splitting the board if direct pressure is applied. 
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-99-039-Variable-Height-Finger/dp/B00004T7MB
This is a finger joint bit I use.

I also like something similar to the T&G joint called a 'Glue Joint'"

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-UP031-Reversible-Shaper-Cutter/dp/B00004VWPA/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1396643912&sr=1-8&keywords=glue+joint+freud

I use an older model of this on my shaper but you can find them in router bits as well. When I need joint strength, I use these.

If you want to be able to do this on a table saw without buying a new bit you may not have, Google a "Tabled Joint" I have used them before and they work very well. Accuracy is the key with them though!


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## RyRat (Apr 2, 2014)

I don't have a jointer yet. It's next on my list.

I just did a quick lap joint on the table saw. It's gluing up right now. Looks like it will work just fine.

And on the router bits, OUCH! Those are $$!!! I don't need to spend that kind of dough since this shouldn't be something I need to do all the time.


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