# Public Service Announcement - How NOT to make drawers - ( or how to break your thumb )



## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

I can't get videos to embed anymore, so just follow the link and go watch at it.

I've set the URL to run at the time stamp where he does the stupid thing.

I was following this video today, and I got kickback so bad it almost took my thumb off.

While I do like the interlocking system, it's better to redo the setup to cut the rabbets with your boards flat.

That vertical cutting is flat out dangerous.

The Quarter-Quarter-Quarter Drawer System


----------



## Firewood (Dec 4, 2013)

Ouch! I hope it's not serious or no permanent damage, Jerry. I tend to avoid those types of cuts unless the piece is supported with something like a tenon jig. I've used that drawer joint quite a bit. It does work pretty well.

Be careful out there


----------



## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

> Ouch! I hope it s not serious or no permanent damage, Jerry. I tend to avoid those types of cuts unless the piece is supported with something like a tenon jig. I ve used that drawer joint quite a bit. It does work pretty well.
> 
> Be careful out there
> 
> - Firewood


Nothing serious, at first I thought I might have broken it, but it's already stopped hurting. Scared the you know what out of me though…


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Hope you're okay.

Yes I would say that would be one for the tenoning jig, or as you say cut it flat on the tablesaw.

Another good way to break your thumb is with a biscuit jointer. Luckily I still have two thumbs, but one was slotted for a #20 biscuit


----------



## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

> Hope you re okay.
> 
> Yes I would say that would be one for the tenoning jig, or as you say cut it flat on the tablesaw.
> 
> ...


WHOA! I bet that smarted. Silly thing is I do have a tenoning jig. Made it a long time ago. Guess I just forgot I had it. Easy to get tunnel vision sometimes…


----------



## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

The first thing I thought when I saw the video you linked to is "why not use a tenoning jig?" But you're right that sometimes we get tunnel vision when watching a technique. We just think about repeating that setup instead of stepping back and finding safer ways to do the same thing.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

I would never try a free cut like that. The piecs is sliding on the top surface and can kick forward or back word if it catches on anything resulting in the blade biting up into the wood. A tenon jig acts like a sled and the base is what stabilizes the cut.

cheers, Jim


----------



## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

> I would never try a free cut like that. The piecs is sliding on the top surface and can kick forward or back word if it catches on anything resulting in the blade biting up into the wood. A tenon jig acts like a sled and the base is what stabilizes the cut.
> 
> cheers, Jim
> 
> - Jim Jakosh


Right you are!


----------



## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

> The first thing I thought when I saw the video you linked to is "why not use a tenoning jig?" But you re right that sometimes we get tunnel vision when watching a technique. We just think about repeating that setup instead of stepping back and finding safer ways to do the same thing.
> 
> - sansoo22


That was me in a nutshell, the mindless mimic…


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

Oh yea, no way. I don't think I would of even tried that. Glad you're OK. There's better ways than what some people post out there.


----------



## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Yes, it seemed like unsafe technique. I didn't like that he wasn't using a ZCI as well, the end of that board resting on the thinnest slivers of the blade insert edge. Glad you weren't hurt.


----------



## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

About the time I was looking at a tenoning jig I started to be drawn to more hand tool work. But if I were going to place narrow boards on a saw like that I would spring for a jig. I was waiting for those classic words "it happened so fast I didn't know it till it was over" Glad your okay and glad you posted for others.


----------



## unclearthur (Jul 4, 2013)

In this FW video, starting at 2:00 he does a number of vertical cuts on the TS (no tenon jig) using a tall fence.

I've copied that jig and made those cuts and not felt unsafe ….... albeit compared to the OP's example, the boards were thicker and less narrow, the fence was taller, there was a zero clearance insert and I use a featherboard to help press the board to the fence prior to the blade.

I guess its largely about the details …...


----------



## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

A pretty standard cut in a lot of shops. What he didn't have, and it helps control the board a lot is a tenoning jig, homemade, fence straddling, with a TALL board, so as to completely side support the stock, and a backup strip behind the stock, OR some variation of that. Especially if your stock is clamped to the jig, it has to follow along where you push the jig, being the jig is straddling the locked down fence, there is little room for movement, unlike the HUGE realm of possibilities for movement just hand holding it. Done freehand I am always amazed not to see it kickback.










When I do these, and I make drawers this way more often than not. I make all my cuts flat to the table, it's just perspective as to which side you cut from, you can still make all the same cuts needed when flat.

I should point out done flat you actually have the same circumstances for kickback if you just shove it forward with a standard miter gauge. You need to do them with a miter gauge that has a WIDE face on it. Either a solid piece of metal track like Kreg uses, or at least a board, or glue up plywood pushing from behind to get away from the potential tippy point, where it all is suddenly coming back at you.

Pick one, all of them work pretty much the same. I have a Kreg miter gauge I like to use, so I have a Kreg track, and beside being able to attach all sorts of 1/4 20 stuff to it, it's very rigid. Just make sure to adjust it left of the blade, or you hear that expensive sounding noise…...... :-(

https://www.google.com/search?q=miter+gauge+with+a+wide+fence+attached&client=opera&hs=DZB&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiB0_KDwqzrAhXXQc0KHalOA8cQ_AUoAnoECA0QBA&biw=1320&bih=627

So once you correct for his wild west cutting style, what he is saying about 1/4 1/4 1/4 is all legit, and for a sound, serviceable, drawer for shops and non show grade furniture drawers it's all pretty good as a way to do them. But he is a Cowboy who isn't a, if he is gonna whack something off, it's just a when.

Using guards, and proper work support, really is much less time than the rehab time after a finger goes zip. I guess it just depends on how you want to spend it, all at once, or a little bit each time you are in the shop. Biggest plus is jigs are cheap, often made from scraps. Fingers cost a LOT of $$$$$$$.


----------



## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

Sometimes it ain't pretty, but…...better than nuttin


----------

