# Polyurethane a good workbench topper?



## newbiewoodworker (Aug 29, 2010)

I am getting ready to finish my workbench, just after I plane a few boards down.. but I am at a loss for ideas when It comes to a finish…

I would prefer not to have to get danish oil, because its expensive ($20 at Woodcraft) and I hear that stain isnt good, because it makes things slippery..

Its construction lumber, not any fancy mahogany or teak…. simple cheap, okay to beat to hell, workstation… So I am sure that alters your oppinions…

I will coat it with a coat of paste wax.

Another thing I am considering is a sheet of hardboard over it, since I noticed that my planer made a mess.. Or is this stuff fragile, ideas?

Thanks guys, you are a helpful crowd.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I made my own finish … a turpentine / bee's wax / boiled linseed oil concoction. Not free, but pretty darn cheap. It seals the top, glue and paint won't stick to it, and I can 'renew' it anytime I like.


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## newbiewoodworker (Aug 29, 2010)

Im fresh out of bees my friend…  How much would something/did something like this cost you, sorry if its a tad prying…


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

I think I gave about $6 or $7 for a pretty good-sized block of bee's wax at a local craft store (Michaels). I only used about a quarter of it in the witch's brew … and only used about half of a quart of the 'finish'.


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## rldunlap (Jul 22, 2010)

I ;use the same finish as TheDane. I got my beeswax at Woodcraft.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Here is the recipe I used (sorry … I don't who to attribute it to):

Shave a hen's-egg-size chunk of beeswax (about 2-ounces) into thin strips using a knife or food grater.

Put the beeswax shavings into a pint (16-ounces) of pure gum turpentine and cover until the wax is dissolved into a butter-like blend.

Next, add an equal volume of BLO and stir until the mixture is combined into a thick liquid.

Brush or wipe the blend over your workbench and allow the "finish" to be absorbed into the wood for an hour or two before you squeegee off the excess. Put the excess in a tightly sealed container-it is still good and can be used to renew the finish in the future.

Allow the finish to "cure" for a few days and then buff to a soft shine.


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## rldunlap (Jul 22, 2010)

You can also substitute mineral spirits for the turpentine.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Another source for the bees wax is to use a wax ring that is found in the plumbing section of any big box store.


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## rwyoung (Nov 22, 2008)

Do not use poly. Any combination of BLO, paste wax or beeswax is sufficient. Go ahead and hit all surfaces to at least make an effort at keeping the wood breathing evenly. Reply to the top as needed. Even with just some BLO, glue won't stick (much) and the top will be easier to clean.

Also, keep rubbing down the top until no more of whatever combination of BLO + wax will come off. It may take several days for the top to stop weeping BLO if you really saturate it.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

I have PolyU on mine, and like it ok. Glue doesn't stick to it, and it still looks pretty good after 2 years.


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## grosa (Aug 27, 2010)

A light furniture wax works good. The router bits and drill bits and screw holes will take care of the rest.


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## Blondewood (Mar 30, 2009)

Like Joe, I used Poly on mine. They're over 10 yrs old and the finish is holding up fine. I like that I can wipe most spilled stain, glue, etc. up or scrape it off later if I don't catch it right away. It can be a little slippery for some tasks and that's where my black rubber router mat comes in handy or even the cheaps shelf liner from the dollar store.
Vicki


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