# Spalted Cherry? And how should I mill this?



## IFDRizz (Jun 5, 2012)

Hi, long time lurker, first time poster. I am in need of a little help. A buddy told me I was welcome to any felled tree's on his land. I found several I am thinking about milling up with my Alaskan chainsaw mill, however I would like some help identifying the one in the photo's (sorry for the quality).

It's spalted, but most is still in pretty solid shape. It has beautiful figure/colors etc. So my question is-can you tell from the pics if this is in fact a black cherry tree? I also would like to know the best way to mill this up. Should I use my small chainsaw mill to cut 1" slabs? Crosscut chunks? Any insight is appreciated.

Thanks!


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## tnwood (Dec 13, 2009)

I don't think that is spalted cherry based on the bark shown in the first picture. Are you sure it isn't a maple?

If you have an alaskan mill, I would make lumber from it; probably cut to 1 1/2 thickness so that you can make veneer from it or use it as 3/4" table tops if you want. You can always cut some turning blocks as well if you are into that aspect. You don't give the log length or diameter so it is hard to know how to best mill it.


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## Doss (Mar 14, 2012)

Yep. You're going to need to provide a size to get a good answer.

That seems to be pretty far into the process. Is the wood still solid?


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## okwoodshop (Sep 15, 2009)

Looks like Maple to me, Like Doss said it is getting pretty punky so cut it thicker cause you may get alot of waste. I wouldn't wait much longer cause it needs to start drying to stop the rot process.


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## RogerM (Oct 31, 2011)

Appears to be maple to me and pretty far gone at that. Are you sure the interior is sound enough for lumber?


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

Definitely not cherry. Probably red maple. It spalts nicely.


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

That looks like you should make alot of turning pieces out of that instead of lumber. :>)


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## IFDRizz (Jun 5, 2012)

Thanks for the replies thus far. To address a couple of points.

-It's a long straight trunk that fell across a little ravine. The areas of the log that are off the ground are pretty much solid thru and thru, with just the occasional soft spot. The pieces in contact with the ground are further along, but still seems to be a good amount of solid wood a couple of inches in.

-The log is probably 30-40 feet long (there are actually 3 logs like this, but the other 2 are a bit smaller diameter wise). On average I would say its diameter is equal to me being able to hug it and my hands barely not touch on the other side. (if that helps at all).

Thanks again
ps: The pic that shows the spalting is from the end that was dug into the ground, so its further along than the rest of the log, but also a bit more beautiful in the solid parts)


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## tyskkvinna (Mar 23, 2010)

I agree that I would cut them thicker than 1".. you could even plan on resawing them later into thinner boards. I've worked with a few spalted trees and found it warped really inconsistently and I lost a few boards because the wobble just made it too awkward.


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## Doss (Mar 14, 2012)

Well if it's that large and you're sure about its integrity, I'd say mill it. Use (get) a chainsaw mill or have a sawyer come out with a bandsaw mill (a lot less waste and probably about the same cost).

I'd cut the boards at 6/4 or 8/4 and hope for the best. Sticker-stack them and get some airflow and heat on them (really I'd send them to the kiln to stop the spalting). If you're not getting airflow and heat on the wood (not direct sunlight), you can expect them to keep going and eventually rot completely if you're in a warm, humid environment.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I'm with Doss, I'd go no thinner than 6/4 myself. It's really attractive but I'm not sure how it would do on the lathe. It might come apart.


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## tnwood (Dec 13, 2009)

If they are about 2 ft in diameter and they are not too far gone then milling them to 6/4 to 8/4 makes sense as spalted wood tends to dry pretty quickly and you can resaw it after it dries. Nice find if much of it is solid.


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## IFDRizz (Jun 5, 2012)

Thanks everyone. Ive started milling it up. It's not been "fun" lol I'm doing it solo for the most part. I have to hike a trail about a mile, then down a pretty steep ravine. So I've only been able to mill it into slabs that I then can hike out, which is not the most fun you can have in the woods. I'm pretty sure it's not even in the top 10. It's beautiful wood tho, and I did get help carrying out a few larger slabs, one of which I milled at 12/4. It's about 30" X 7', and I think it will make a beautiful table once it's dried (if I can get it to not check or warp too badly).

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. It's much appreciated.


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## SteviePete (May 10, 2009)

If the big slab doesn't work out, I'd try sawn veneers. Use CA to stabilize if necessary - either before or after milling. Its a fair amount of work-I did spalted soft maple yard tree. Turned out great. Used a UV inhibited varnish. It seemed to keep the from falling apart. Good luck. s


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## IFDRizz (Jun 5, 2012)

Thanks…Here is a quick pic I took of of a couple of the smaller slabs that I had carried to a clearing.


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## Doss (Mar 14, 2012)

Yep, as someone who moves really big slabs, I can guarantee that it is not "fun".

Just remember to saw the slabs properly. I'm guessing you're flatsawing. *How are the pieces looking so far?*

EDIT You posted while I was typing this up.


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## IFDRizz (Jun 5, 2012)

I think the pieces look great. No obvious warping or checking thus far. The ends are coated, and the slabs are on stickers in my garage at the moment. Right now there are just 6 slabs of different dimensions, and then a lot of cookies that I need to cut up to dimensions that I can work with for smaller projects or for turning (I don't even have a lathe, but want one down the line. So at least I will have plenty of material once I get one)

"Just remember to saw the slabs properly." 
Well, I think I am doing correctly. Yes, I am flatsawing. I've run into some issues with my chainsaw and the mill, which is why the slabs are not milled smoother. It started pulling to the right out in the field, only cutting in a crescent shape. Once the issue started, It was sever enough that it wouldn't cut further than a few inches into the rip with the mill attached to it. I think I have it figured out now (I'm pretty sure it was the chain). 
Between the remoteness, the "off trail" aspect, being solo, and the fact the tree crosses a ravine and makes me really nervous about bucking it since I am a newbie, I'd say this probably wasn't the best first tree for me to mill…but, it's free, and I don't mind the hard work.

Thanks again for taking the time to help.


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## Doss (Mar 14, 2012)

Well, I would recommend getting the tree to a safe location first. I would never use something like a chainsaw mill in an unstable environment. Let me rephrase that, "Never mill a log that is not on stable ground and isn't anchored (whether by weight or other means) firmly to its foundation.

About chainsaw milling, you have to make sure of several things while doing it:

1. Have a sharp chain.
2. Make sure the chain is sharpened properly. If it's not, all sorts of issues will pop up. I cannot stress how important a properly sharpened chain is.
3. Make sure the bar and and guide are parallel.
4. Make sure the chain is sharp.
5. Make sure your bar/chain has plenty of oil being feed to it
6. Make sure your chain is sharp.

If I were you, I'd probably wear a dust mask as well (mold). I wear one regardless because of all the dust my mill kicks up.

Those slabs don't look too big. I'd probably mill them into large moveable sizes and bring them to where you can finish milling them.

Also, you're going to experience the checking/cracking/warping later in the drying process most likely. It's not going to happen right of the bat normally.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I think its beech. Cut it about 1 1/2.


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## WDHLT15 (Aug 15, 2011)

That is some nice spalt. Milling with a chainsaw is a tedious task, even if you are an expert chain sharpener, and most people are not.


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