# Just Got My Lathe, Now What? Wood Turner's Resource for Newbies



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

I have been woodworking off and on most of my life in some form or another. I mentioned to my wife that I would really like to get a lathe, and she thought that was a great idea. So not to argue, I spent the last week looking online to find a machine that will best suite my needs. I was on the fence about which to get, so I decided to increase my budget a bit more and settled on a Jet 1220VS. The Jet Red Assurance plan was the deciding factor for me.

So with that out of the way, I would like to use this thread as newbie's guide to provide information received from the great community here at LJ's.

What advice do you have to offer?


What tools are a must have to get started


Instructional video/books you have found useful


YouTube Channels


Woodturning Websites


Sharpening tips and techiques


PPE and Safety equipment


Shop layout tips

*Wood Turners Resource*

*YouTube Channels*
Frank Howarth
Bendan Stemp
Brian Havens
Stuart Batty
SG Art Turning
Cap'N Eddie Castelin
David Marks
Craft Supplies USA
How to select logs for turning
Wood Turning Techniques w/ David Marks

*Web Sites*
https://www.woodturningonline.com
http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/index.html

*Online Retailers*
http://www.thewoodturningstore.com/
https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com
https://www.packardwoodworks.com
https://www.pennstateind.com
https://www.leevalley.com
http://thompsonlathetools.com/
http://jimmyclewes.com/

*Instructor Lead Classes, Workshops, & Demos*
https://www.woodcraft.com
https://www.rockler.com
https://marcadams.com/

*Online Classes / Membership Tutorials*
http://jimmyclewes.com/

*PPE/Personal Safety*
Personal Dust Filtration
Face Shield


----------



## Ripper70 (Nov 30, 2015)

Congrats on your new toy! I too have come to the conclusion that I must have a lathe. I'm itching to try my hand at turning but have yet to secure the funding for making the dream a reality. Maybe you can get your wife to convince my wife that it's a "great idea". So far, I haven't had any luck with that!

I can point you to some YouTubers that I've been studying and learning quite a bit from. Sometimes, for me anyway, watching an expert share his wisdom and experience can be very educational.

Brendan Stemp - Lots of topics, including tools and their uses, sharpening, technique and project vids.

SG Art Turning - Very creative bowl turner. Simply nice to watch his process.

Craft Supplies USA - Lots of "How To" vids and product reviews.


----------



## bigJohninvegas (May 25, 2014)

Hi Rob, welcome to woodturning. 
I see you are in Indianapolis. 
Check out this web site
https://www.woodturningonline.com
There is a ton of good info here, and a link to find woodturning clubs in your area. 
I would start with finding a club. Nothing like face to face, hands on info. 
To quote a professional turned, and friend. They should give you the lathes for all the money they are going to make selling accessories for it. 
Now that I said that. Don't buy it till you know you need it. A lot of gadgets out there that you really don't need.
As far as a starter set of tools. You can go cheap, and you will get by fine with them like harbor freight, or Benjamin best. But I prefer a better brand. So pretty much any any tool out of Sheffield England like sorby or crown they're all the same steel whichever set you can get cheapest, typically sorby like a 7 piece set. There's also carbide tools. I actually use both. Getting in touch with a club and actually getting to use some tools will give you a better opinion of what would work best for you, before you start buying.
I buy quite a bit from craft supplies USA that link is already posted here. But shop around several websites will sell the same product find whichever one gives you the best deal free shipping whatever.
Other tools I like vicmarc Chucks, and one-way Chucks. But like the tools there's a bunch of different ones out there. I also use a one-way Wolverine jig for sharpening with an 8 inch grinder. And CBN Wheels. No right or wrong way and lots of different ways. Again find a club put your hands on some stuff before you start buying. 
Good luck and safe turning


----------



## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Would be nice to know what you actually want to turn. For turning tools stay away from turning tool sets. Buy only individual tools as you need them. Turning tools come inexpensive or little more expensive depending where you buy.

For spindle turning need a 3/4" roughing gouge, spindle gouges 3/8", 1/2", skew gouge either 1/2" or ¾" and a diamond parting tool.

For bowl turning those gouges come in American or English sizes. America 1/2" is actually 1/2", English sizes are 1/8" larger than stated size; for example a 3/8" is actually 1/2". You may want to buy a four jaw scroll chuck which are either inexpensive or expensive depending on your budget. You can also use the faceplate that comes with your lathe for bowl turning.

If want to turn pen need spindle turning tools some folks use their bowl gouges. More better to let us know because need a few other accessories.

The best free catolog for everything wood turning is from:

http://www.packardwoodworks.com

Craft Supplies also had a free catalog for the asking not sure if still available:

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/

Another one especially for pen turning and inexpensive turning tools is Penn State Industries:

http://www.pennstateind.com

Both Craft Supplies & Packard Woodworks have excellent list of books and videos if interested, but might check your local library in your town before buying. Like already said You Tube has many free excellent turning & sharpening videos.

You will need a face shield, and dust mask available locally.

Have no idea on shop layout other than keep your sharpening system close. Same goes versus bench or stand turning either one will work.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to follow up on the links and add them to the original post. My hope is that I can compile all the useful information that I can into one thread targeted at beginners.

For me, I want to turn bowls and shop tools, and probably pens too (I really want to turn spheres, but I think that may be a bit advanced for someone at my experience level. ). I also want to use acrylic in my turns, but again that will come later.


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Acrylic (actually, most all plastics) is a blast to turn, but be warned - it spits out a lot of really long stringy ribbons that get tangled up and in the way of everything!

You can get started relatively cheap, or you can go hog wild and spend a small fortune - it's up to you. I tend to gravitate towards the less expensive side of the equation, and there are a lot of ways to do some really great work without spending a lot (or anything depending on what you already have on hand). You should receive the machine ready to turn between centers, so start there and work you way up.

Off the bat, you will need some tools and a way to sharpen them. Again, you can spend a lot or a little, your choice. A belt sander works well for sharpening, and you can make your own tools. And I always recommend getting a thread tap for your spindle so you can make your own faceplates, mandrels (like for pens and wheels), and a number of other useful things out of scrap wood. (See here). Other than that, watch some videos, and just start using the machine. It's not a terribly difficult tool to learn, and like anything else, the more you practice, the better you will get.

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## jimintx (Jan 23, 2014)

This is a good thread - I'm learning from it. Thanks to the participants.


----------



## TravisH (Feb 6, 2013)

> Thanks for the info guys. I m going to follow up on the links and add them to the original post. My hope is that I can compile all the useful information that I can into one thread targeted at beginners.
> 
> For me, I want to turn bowls and shop tools, and probably pens too (I really want to turn spheres, but I think that may be a bit advanced for someone at my experience level. ). I also want to use acrylic in my turns, but again that will come later.
> 
> - RPhillips


Typically not a class type but was very pleased with the one I took (gift from wife one Christmas).

Being in Indy I would advise taking some classes from Bob Anderson through Woodcraft. They aren't expensive and class size small (4). The Learn to To turn is a basic one to start off on that will introduce you to safety, proper technique, sharpening of tools, etc…. You end up turning a small project during that class. There is also a bowl class and I believe another one. Just good to confirm what you are doing right or wrong and he will let you move at your own pace. If you got something down then he will challenge you with something a little more advanced so you aren't bored.

Bob usually holds some office in Central Indiana Chapter of American Association of Woodtruners. They meet in Zionsville (I believe the 2nd Sunday of every month at 2). We were told in our class to stop in at any of their meetings to see if something that interests you.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

> Thanks for the info guys. I m going to follow up on the links and add them to the original post. My hope is that I can compile all the useful information that I can into one thread targeted at beginners.
> 
> For me, I want to turn bowls and shop tools, and probably pens too (I really want to turn spheres, but I think that may be a bit advanced for someone at my experience level. ). I also want to use acrylic in my turns, but again that will come later.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info, I have looked into the classes offered at Woodcraft. I may attend the "Beautiful Bowl Basics" class, although it's meant for someone with some knowledge of turning, I think I'll be OK.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=20262&cat=1,330,49233,43164

thoughts on this set of turning tools? 
will it cover…
roughing,
turning a few tool handles… birdcage awl first on the list,
bowl turning


----------



## LeeMills (Nov 2, 2014)

I think tools are fairly well covered, or close to what I may recommend.
Books & articles. I suggest videos instead but there are some good books and articles.

Videos: The ones listed before are good (I am not familiar with Frank)
I will add two more. These do not try to teach you to turn anything (pens, bowls, boxes, etc), instead they try to teach you to turn everything. Both are fundamental.
Stuart Batty's are on Vimeo and has about 30, many of which no one else covers in such clear detail ASAIK.
https://vimeo.com/woodturning/videos/sort:alphabetical/format:thumbnail
Brian Havens is on youtube and has 10 on fundamentals. He also has many many other good ones.





The are lots of good ones but (IMHO) you will need to be specific when you get your tools. A person teaching the parting tool may not teach the bowl gouge or scraper.

Sharpening: You will probably want a grinder and jig. The current status is an 8" slow speed with wheels costing over $125 each and the Oneway jig. I use a 6" with about $15 wheels that I built back in the 80's. I do have a Sorby jig but there are plenty of videos on how to make one for about $20 on youtube.

PPE: You will need a face shield, a popular one is Unix about $30 on Amazon. Make sure any mask or goggles are rated with the +. You will need some type of respirator while sanding. You can spend hundreds to filter down to 0.3 microns or you can purchase 3M disposable (after 160 hours) that filter down to 0.3 microns for about $2.25 for the 95% efficient or about $7 for the 100% efficient.

Shop Layout: Can't help much there.

Machine Mounting: With a mini/midi I would go with building a base. You can add shelves or drawers under and have a top big enough to lay tools of finishing supplies on.


----------



## Ripper70 (Nov 30, 2015)

> (I really want to turn spheres, but I think that may be a bit advanced for someone at my experience level. ). I also want to use acrylic in my turns, but again that will come later.
> 
> - RPhillips


You'll find plenty of Brendan Stemp videos where he uses acrylic to great effect. Also, Frank Howarth has allot of great tuning videos, including one about making a sphere.

A simpler approach to a sphere is demonstrated here.

Stemp also demonstrates a sphere turing jig if you'd prefer to take the guesswork out of it. Apparently, these jigs can be shop made as well.


----------



## bigJohninvegas (May 25, 2014)

> http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=20262&cat=1,330,49233,43164
> 
> thoughts on this set of turning tools?
> will it cover…
> ...


That is a nice set, but it is intended as a spindle turning set. You stated that you wanted to turn bowls. 
I do have more than one spindle gouge, but not to start with. 
I just did a search, and was very surprised by todays prices.
I started with this 6 piece Sorby set. Think I found a good sale at $180, but it was 4 years ago. 
best price I saw today was this site. 
https://www.amazon.com/Robert-Sorby-Turning-Roughing-Standard/dp/B0002IXQHO

That's the only set I have ever bought. Today, most of my tools are made by Doug Thompson.

http://thompsonlathetools.com/
With the prices I have seen. It may be cheaper, or not much more to go ahead and buy single tools.
And get only what you need.
I still use the Sorby roughing Gouge, Spindle gouge, and Parting tool from the set. 
I wore out (sacrificed) that 1st bowl gouge learning how to sharpen. Oops, 
Very rare that I have used the skew, (Still learning how to use that tool). And I have never touched the scraper. 
So maybe I wasted some money there. 
I have also added a few carbide tools. Jimmy Clewes mate 1 tools. 
http://jimmyclewes.com/product/jimmy-clewes-hollowing-tools-mate-1-mate-2/

Some will say you can do it all with carbide. And I do use carbide, but prefer to use gouges most of the time.


----------



## NotaJock (May 23, 2015)

How much money do you want to spend and/or how frugal are you? You've gotten suggestions for the expensive stuff. I went the other way. Most of my turning tools came from the swapmeet where I never spent over $5 for a tool and some times $.50. Yes it's true one day I found three old Craftsman turning tols on some guy's $.50 table, 2 gouges and a parting tool for $1.50. So what if they needed sharpening, you got to learn how to do that anyway. One of the gouges was a carbide. Don't have a wheel for that but I'll get there. I've made a parting tool from an old file and am trying to get the grind right on another file for a scraper. I also pick up tols without a handle for very little then make the handle to suit.
My tools may not be as pretty as some but I bet I have just as much fun.
Which way are you going?


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

@Notajock - I am open to whatever I can find that will do the job. I have no objections what so ever to owning used tools. I love old tools, but I haven't had much luck finding anything.

I just went through several videos by Stuart Batty of SB Tools and found his videos to be very informative. These are great instructional videos for someone like myself. He explains the difference between what is acceptable and unacceptable as far as tuning stock goes. He goes through proper tool technique for turning end grain. He also goes through how to properly mount your piece into a turning chuck. I'll definitely continue with his series.


----------



## Knockonit (Nov 5, 2017)

buying a lathe is like owning a jeep. just empty every pocket. lol
rj


----------



## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Just a cautionary note about making turning tools out of old files … don't do it.

The steel used in files is brittle and may not be able to withstand the force in turning. A good catch (you will have them) and you could snap the tool and send it flying.

I know … someone is going to come back with "I've been doing it for 50 years … etc." Maybe so, but that just means they have been lucky.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

> buying a lathe is like owning a jeep. just empty every pocket. lol
> rj
> 
> - Knockonit


Oh NO! I now own both!


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

> Just a cautionary note about making turning tools out of old files … don t do it.
> 
> The steel used in files is brittle and may not be able to withstand the force in turning. A good catch (you will have them) and you could snap the tool and send it flying.
> 
> ...


I agree, files are very brittle. Stick one in a vice and tap it with a hammer… SNAP!


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I found Doc Green's Woodturning Site helpful when I first got my lathe. Tons of good information for the beginner.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

For bowl and general turning, will this suffice? If not, what would you suggest I add/subtract from the list?

3/4" Roughing Gouge
3/8" Spindle Gouge
3/16" Diamond Parting Tool
1/2" Bowl Gouge

These average for about $33 each from Lee Valley's Economy line. Not a bad price, and they come with full length handles. I heard from another LJ that the quality was pretty good.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

> I found Doc Green's Woodturning Site helpful when I first got my lathe. Tons of good information for the beginner.
> 
> - Lazyman


Thanks, I thought I had already added that site to the list, but it is now.


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

NEVER use a standard roughing gouge or most cheap spindle gouges when turning bowls. They usually have a really wimpy tang which cannot safely handle the rotating end grain the way you typically turn bowls. If the spindle or roughing gouge's tang is a solid rod and not a flat tang, it is probably okay for bowl turning but you may be better off getting a larger bowl gouge that you will use for roughing bowls.


----------



## LeeMills (Nov 2, 2014)

> http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=20262&cat=1,330,49233,43164
> 
> thoughts on this set of turning tools?
> will it cover…
> ...


I just took a look. Henry Taylor is very good but that set seems to be a mini. The overall length (12.5") is very short. Most standard spindle tools have a 12" handle and 7-9" blade.
The largest gouge is about 3/8" or about the same as my smallest. Nothing there that I can see for roughing or bowl turning.

If you have had a chance to review the Stuart Batty Videos he covers tool diameter, distance over the tool rest, and tool handle for a general understanding of the forces at work for each tool type.

You may want to take a look at Hurricane tools. I have some and find them OK, not the best but certainaly not junk either.
My daughter took up turning a few years back and I set her up with Hurricane as I found them to be decent quality.
http://www.thewoodturningstore.com/hand-tools/?sort=alphaasc&_bc_fsnf=1&brand=48
You can probably get two spindle gouges (1/2 & 3/8), SRG, parting tool, 1" skew, and 1/2" bowl gouge for not much more than the small Henry Taylor set. I do not know where they are made but the Hurricane bowl gouges are sized in the UK fashion as described earlier.

Sorry I somehow misses your post #20. Yes that should be a good start. I do not know the size of their "economy line" as to handle and blade.
You can use a bowl gouge to rough a spindle but don't use a SRG on a bowl.


----------



## NotaJock (May 23, 2015)

> Just a cautionary note about making turning tools out of old files … don t do it.
> 
> The steel used in files is brittle and may not be able to withstand the force in turning. A good catch (you will have them) and you could snap the tool and send it flying.
> 
> ...


No argument that files are brittle but there's an eacy fix. 
Throw it in the back of the oven while baking your morning biscuits. 
When it cools you'll have drawn much of the hardness.
This is called tempering.


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

This Hurricane Bowl gouge set is a good quality set at a good price ($73 on Amazon). I sharpened my 1/2" gouge to an Ellsworth (or Irish) grind and it is excellent for both roughing (inside and out) and sheer cutting on the outside of the bowl. I use the 3/8" in the standard grind for interior shaping because it is easier to use it to smooth the inside bottom. I also recommend a scraper like this for cleaning up the inside of the bowl though you probably don't need 2 of them.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

> No argument that files are brittle but there s an eacy fix.
> Throw it in the back of the oven while baking your morning biscuits.
> When it cools you ll have drawn much of the hardness.
> This is called tempering.
> ...


Good point, Forgive my ignorance about tempering. I actually saw a video on how to make a scraper from a file on YouTube so I'd say that there are many others doing just the same thing.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

I've been thinking on what tools I want to invest in for the last week or so and I have finally came up with a plan. I decided to go with unhandled tools from Thomson Lathe Tools. The 1/2" spindle gouge, 1/2" bowl gouge, and 1" skew. I will construct a temporary handle from 3/4" pipe and use that to turn my own handles. I think this route will net me quality tools in a manner which I can best manage. I will either make my own parting tool or purchase one locally.


----------



## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Based on your above post this may be too late, anyway for newbie tools I recommend hi value tools, I like Benjamins Best and Hurricane, for 3 reasons: 1) learn to sharpen w/o grinding away a $100 tool, 2) can try different tool shapes and sizes, building experience and knowledge, to determine what works for you, w/o spending $100/tool, 3) try different tool bevels/grinds, esp. gouges. A lot of grinding can sometimes be required for a significantly different grind, and no one wants to grind away a $100+ tool. After trying different things and settling on size/shape etc, then buy the $100+ each tools you know you will use and maximize the life of them. Dont recommend carbide - learn how to sharpen and use gouges properly instead.

Sharpening - wheeled grinder, belt sander are the leading powered abrasives and both work. Highly recommend a jig for gouges, from Capn Eddies diy to a vari grind or other name brand. Practice hand grinding after learning how to get good grinds with a jig. That way you have a good baseline.

You already have some very good content listed. Add Lyle Jamieson for bowl turning on youtube. For segmented turning look at my blog - there are links. There are many ways to do things on the lathe and lots of methods and opinions of whats best. The challenge is figuring out what works for you. Methods and skills a production turner uses arent necessarily the way for a part time hobbiest - some things are difficult to do if you havent done them for a month or 2.


----------



## Shady Acres Woodshop (Dec 13, 2015)

I have been a woodworker for 50 years. When I decided to become a woodturner, I turned to YouTube and found Captain Eddie Castelin. I watched every one of his videos, starting from the oldest and working my way to the newest. Every video will teach you something new in a very casual but easy to understand way. I am now a competent woodturner. Give him a look, you won't regret it. https://www.youtube.com/user/capneddie/videos?flow=list&view=0&sort=da


----------



## moke (Oct 19, 2010)

I am with Lazyman….Hurricane tools are good, reasonably priced tools. They sold here:
http://www.thewoodturningstore.com/brands/Hurricane-Turning-Tools.html and they are also on ebay a lot. They have two levels of tools, and I have had pretty good luck with both of them. I have been turning a while and have some high dollar skews and bowl gouges and these are pretty darn close.

Personally, if you are the type of person to stay with a hobby, I think sets are a good thing…..you get some tools that you may seldom use, but I think they come in handy occasionally and you might never go buy them by them selves.

The thing most people don't tell you, is a sharpening set up is just as important as the tools or the lathe. Dull tools are frustrating and dangerous. It is another 300-$400. A lot of guys go with "carbide insert tools" to start with…as they do not require sharpening, only a replacement cutter. While most seasoned turners "look down their noses" at them, it is something to consider. Whether we want to admit it or not, sharpening is a HUGE part of turning. I am not sure the wisdom of buying big dollar tools for someone that has not sharpened before. You will have some issues.

You may ask at your local woodcraft if there are any turning clubs around…..I am sure in a town as large as Indianapolis there has to be multiple options.. Even here in Eastern Iowa we have a great club with some phenomenal turners. They are cheap to join and often times offer a "Mentor" program. This is awesome. Pay the guy for his gas, have some snacks and coffee or pop, and make sure you have some blanks to practice on…...make him want to come back.
Just my .02


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

OSU, Mike, & Madrona - thanks for the input, well received. Good information there… and I will have a look at CapNEddie and add to the list. I am also looking into finding a club/mentor. I plan to attend a session at Woodcraft sometime on early March for woodturner noobs.

The price of those Hurricanes tools are very good. I was concerned with how well they will actually hold an edge. I may start with those as suggested, then buy a new tool later once I just used to turning and have all the other things I need to get up and going. What really sucks is that I will have my Lathe tomorrow, but I don't have any tools or wood to turn. I spent my entire budget on the lathe.. so I will have to admire it a while before I can actually use it. Which is fine considering it's -11F here in Indy. I also need to organize my shop and build a stand for it. So by the time I get everything I need the weather will be much more bearable.

As far as sharpening goes…

I'm hoping that sharpening isn't quite that hard to get the hang of. After watching a few videos, looks like the jig makes it fairly straightforward and simple.

I use hand tools a lot, so I am familiar with with using stones (well, DMT's) for keeping my plane irons and chisels in tip top shape. I also have sharpened some carving tools (gouges, chisels, knives) that I inherited, although I have never used them. Wanted them to be sharp, just in case.

I plan to pick up a Rikon grinder and Vari-Grind jig. I have an old Craftman high speed grinder (with what ever wheels came on it), but I'm not sure how well this would work. It seems most recommend a slow speed grinder. The Rikon comes with an 60 grit and 120 grit. I think I will use the Rikon as a dedicated turning tool sharpener and use the other for general use.


----------



## bbasiaga (Dec 8, 2012)

Are you going to the wood show in Indy in Feb? I am a new wood Turner u p in NWI, if you are going to be there we could sayh hi.

I just started with a $100 HF bench top lathe and made a set of my own carbide cutting tools. More work, but cheaper than buyuing them.

Check out RJB Woodworker on YouTube. He has a lot of stuff on pen turning. Also a Hoosier.

B rian


----------



## bbasiaga (Dec 8, 2012)

Should note, using carbide means no sharpening. Saves a lot of money up front.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

> Are you going to the wood show in Indy in Feb? I am a new wood Turner u p in NWI, if you are going to be there we could sayh hi.
> 
> I just started with a $100 HF bench top lathe and made a set of my own carbide cutting tools. More work, but cheaper than buyuing them.
> 
> ...


Woodshow? I'll look into it.


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> I plan to pick up a Rikon grinder and Vari-Grind jig. I have an old Craftman high speed grinder (with what ever wheels came on it), but I m not sure how well this would work. It seems most recommend a slow speed grinder. The Rikon comes with an 60 grit and 120 grit. I think I will use the Rikon as a dedicated turning tool sharpener and use the other for general use.
> - RPhillips


If you have a belt sander, save yourself some cash and just make a jig for it. No need to go spending a lot of cash if you don't want to (or maybe you do… I don't know 

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## bbasiaga (Dec 8, 2012)

It's called the woodworking show….It's at the fairgrounds the first weekend of February. They will have turning stuff there, and may even have a turning class you can sign up for.

Brian


----------



## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Here's a link to the WW show … http://www.thewoodworkingshows.com/indianapolis.html


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

@Brad - I do not have a belt sander or disc sander for that matter. Wish I did, been a time or two I would have loved to have one.

@Brian & Gerry - Thanks. I will be attending unless my daughter has a meet that weekend. Looks like there will be a fair amount of turning going on. Cant wait.


----------



## Jacksdad (Mar 28, 2017)

Here's my 2 cents, for instruction I like Carl Jacobson and Tim Yoder, they both have tons of free YouTube videos , and to start for tools I would go with the carbide tools that are out. With regular tools there is a learning curve and you also need a grinder to sharpen and if you want to sharpen well a sharpening jig like the Wolverine. I personally am not a fan of the carbide tools but I think they are great to get started. You will also need the extras like a chuck and a drill chuck. That's enough to get started, if you have any more questions about turning feel free to contact me, I teach classes at Woodcraft in Appleton Wisconsin.


----------



## Jacksdad (Mar 28, 2017)

Here's my 2 cents, for instruction I like Carl Jacobson and Tim Yoder, they both have tons of free YouTube videos , and to start for tools I would go with the carbide tools that are out. With regular tools there is a learning curve and you also need a grinder to sharpen and if you want to sharpen well a sharpening jig like the Wolverine. I personally am not a fan of the carbide tools but I think they are great to get started. You will also need the extras like a chuck and a drill chuck. That's enough to get started, if you have any more questions about turning feel free to contact me, I teach classes at Woodcraft in Appleton Wisconsin.


----------



## Jacksdad (Mar 28, 2017)

Ok, I've got more, the books I would recommend are anything by Richard Raff


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

I have a four wheel, variable speed, reversible grinder with CBN wheels and love it. It doesn't eat treasured material off my knives (I have some cheap ones I really like as much as the more spendy ones). I invested in the Oneway Wolverine system and like the ease of use for getting consistent sharpening effects.

The foregoing aside, I started with a 1" Delta belt sander I picked up from a garage sale and use it religiously, between major touch ups on the CBN wheels. If that sander died tomorrow, I'd be rebuilding it or, at the least, heading toward Harbor Freight to pick up their version.

P.S. The four wheel grinder just uses a commercial sewing machine motor, which you can buy new, with the controller, for around one hundred, common pillow blocks and 1/2" rods. You can make the frame for the set up out of wood or iron.


----------



## Jacksdad (Mar 28, 2017)

Ok, I've got more, the books I would recommend are anything by Richard Raffin or David Ellsworths book, also Alan Lacer has a good book out. There is a website called Craftsy, for around $20 you get a full course.
I'm not sure what happened before but my keyboard froze.


----------



## jimintx (Jan 23, 2014)

> ... The foregoing aside, I started with a 1" Delta belt sander I picked up from a garage sale and use it religiously, ... If that sander died tomorrow, I d be rebuilding it or, at the least, heading toward Harbor Freight to pick up their version.
> - Kelly


I got my 1"x30" belt sander almost as a lark (tool guy, here, just couldn't resist). I cannot believe how useful it is. The footprint is small, and I just leave it sitting on a side bench top counter in my shop. Excellent for sharpening use, and I often walk to it to touch up a whole host of edges and surfaces or remove burrs and splinters. I say get one!

I have a new ad from Rockler right here on the desk, that offers the Rikon 50-151 which has a 1"x30" belt and a 5" disc. It looks really good, and is priced at $89.99. Heck, there are plenty of single turning tools priced in that range.


----------



## Ripper70 (Nov 30, 2015)

I thought this would be a worthwhile addition to your thread for newbie turners. I came across this video explaining "How to Cut Logs for Turning" which I think provides a great visual demonstration of the most effective ways to source and use free/found wood for bowl turning.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

Good Video. I'll add it to the list. Thanks for the contribution.

I got my JET 1221 unboxed and sitting on two bar stools in my house until the garage is ready. Temps have been a little to cold for human interaction.

Now I still need to get some tools and get my sharpening system up and going. Then I'll need to get something to turn. Might go purchase a couple blanks… not sure yet.


----------



## bbasiaga (Dec 8, 2012)

Id really recommend carbide to start out. THat way you can see what turning is like without wondering if you didn't get your tool sharp enough, and save some coin on the sharpening system up front as well.

Brian


----------



## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

> Then I ll need to get something to turn. Might go purchase a couple blanks… not sure yet.


Cut up some 2×4's or a 4×4 … makes good practice stock and you won't be blowing through expensive turning blanks.


----------



## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

> I thought this would be a worthwhile addition to your thread for newbie turners. I came across this video explaining "How to Cut Logs for Turning" which I think provides a great visual demonstration of the most effective ways to source and use free/found wood for bowl turning.
> 
> - Ripper70


Sourcing free/ cheap turning materials is something I would recommend researching. A quality chainsaw is something I would put near the top of your list. I would stay away from home center saws, lawn equipment suppliers are a better option.


----------



## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

I am just a couple hours south of you and have very little trouble finding good supplies of wood. We are surrounded by an abundance of good options for turning projects.


----------



## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

I agree with the others that have suggest carbide tools to get started because they give the ability to start turning immediately. The carbide inserts do not have to be replaced when they dull. I sharpen mine on a extra fine DMT credit card size diamond plate.

https://www.amazon.com/DMT-D3E-Dia-Sharp-Sharpener-Extra-Fine/dp/B001MQNJAO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1515500033&sr=8-2&keywords=dmt+credit+card+diamond+sharpener

You can move on to or add steel tools when you get more of an idea of the work you like and the way you choose to do it.


----------



## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

deleted duplicate


----------



## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

deleted


----------



## gtrgeo (Mar 22, 2017)

I went through this within the last year. Picked up a used Delta midi lathe and had no tools to go with it. After a lot of searching and thinking I would go high end as well, I ended up buying the Benjamin's Best Wood Magazine set and have not regretted it. Every tool in the set is useful and the quality is very good. For sharpening I bought the Rikon slow speed; it goes on sale regular at both Rockler and Woodcraft. And, the Oneway Wolverine set with the vari-grind jig. I have been happy with everything so far.

As you have found, there are many great videos on Youtube and you can learn from all of them. In the end, there is nothing like taking a tool to wood to increase your learning curve. Cut some blanks from 2×4s as suggested; I happened to have some old pieces of 4×4 which have been great to mess around with. The pine will quickly show weaknesses in your technique and it is cheap. Just focus on the basics first, roughing gouge to make round, using a parting tool to set depth, spindle gouge for coves and beads. Many warned to stay away from the skew but that just made me more curious. I committed to learning how to use the skew and am glad I did.

I did take a short class at the local Rockler which was helpful as it was available before my tools arrived and allowed me to get some time on the lathe with some face-to-face guidance. I see you found Brian Havens' videos. Although there are turners which may be more experienced, I found his videos a great help in understanding fundamentals and just how each type of tool works. I wish he would continue to add content as his presentation was great for me. This video by Richard Raffan/Fine Woodworking is great for understanding catches. You WILL have catches and it is good to understand how they happen to prevent ruining your piece or possible injury.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

Good info. Again, thank you guys for the contributions.

I will be using some shop scraps to get me started. Got a piece of black locust that is just dying to be turned. J/K Not sure how it turns, but boy is it hard on hand tools.

Carbide tools do sound tempting, as I can actually make them pretty cheap. I also have a complete set of 3" x 8" DMT "Stones", so again a cheaper method to get me going.

However, I do prefer using traditional tools and techniques and would really like to start with traditional cutting tools. I will definitely be pondering on this for the days to come, which is fine as I am still recovering from Christmas. I'll have to watch some videos to learn the techniques for using carbides too.


----------



## Knockonit (Nov 5, 2017)

LOL, this is great, I discovered, that the lathe was the least expensive of my purchases, lol, amazing how much Stuff ya just gotta have, haha, my wife says, we needed that, and my answer is always, pretty sure, if not, well, i've got one so i don't have to worry about it when i do need one. seems to placate her.

have fun, make some dust and enjoy the future projects
Rj


----------



## bigJohninvegas (May 25, 2014)

I had almost bought carbide to start with. Then met, and started taking classes with Jimmy Clewes.
He was among several turners here in Las Vegas that pointed me toward traditional turning tools. 
Not to look down on carbide at all. I do use some carbide tools now. But was taught that it was to my advantage to learn traditional turning first.
I am glad I did. To this day, I prefer HSS tools over carbide.
For example, both hollowing a bowl, and all my finish cuts are with HSS tools.
Another big tip that was given to me early on. Learn spindle turning. Beads and coves teach great tool control.
Now I do ok with detail work, but to this day I can't seem to make matching table legs. lol.
The quote was anyone can turn a bowl. A spindle turner can turn anything. 
I have not used very much 2X4 wood, but instead I watch for tree limbs. You see a tree trimmer working, I'll grab up 3" and larger limbs. Some will turn into nice end grain vases. Most of the small stuff is just wasted to good spindle practice. You will find green wood to be a real pleasure to turn too. 
No need to go all out to get started. Today, I do primarily use Thompson tools. How ever I did not start there.
And I just bought a benjamin best spindle gouge for a custom grind that I want.
Hard to justify the cost of high end tools for a grind that will get used every now and then. 
A cheap starter tool set will not get wasted. 
I have a harbor freight parting tool that is cut at an angle to give me a perfect tenon. I don't really need it, but it was a dollar at a yard sale. So why not. 
No need to spend a lot to get started. Ben Best tool set for one example. as you move on the cheap stuff will get re-purposed. 
Good luck


----------



## CXYyuppie (Jan 14, 2018)

Ok I bought a HF 10"x18" lathe and 8 piece chisel set to get started. I know, it's cheap, but that's what I could afford at the time. I have turned a couple of spindles to basically make some saw dust. I have made a sharpening system for my 6" inch grinder and have a 1"x30" belt sander. I chucked up a piece of black walnut to the face plate to have a try at a small bowl and it came out alright, but not great. Using a waste block mounted on a face plate, I tried my hand at a segmented bowl, thinking I would have less waste. It actually came out better than using a solide chunk of wood. Not sure how to attach a photo of the bowl. Now I think it would be easier using a chuck of some kind but not sure how it works and what to look for in an inexpensive 4 jaw chuck. 
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Craig


----------



## LeeMills (Nov 2, 2014)

I would refer you back to the first post for "how it works". I know, there are many many topics on this thread and that can be good or bad depending on the time you have. Under Instructional Videos go to Stuart Batty, there are about thirty there alone and three are on chucks, recesses, and tenons. The chuck itself is just one part (maybe the least important), how to use it properly may be more important. If just starting I would suggest many Stuarts videos to include stance, tool overhang, and many other topics often skimped over but which are important fundamentals.

As to chucks there are a lot of good ones. I would suggest the Nova G3 (about $100). I have a 16" lathe and use my G3's the majority of the time even though I have larger chucks. 
Folks also seem to have high regards for the PSI line of chucks. There are several other good ones but the $$$ can get high pretty quickly. The G3 will handle anything your lathe can.


----------



## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

The best value Ive found for 4 jaw scroll chucks is PSI tools Barracuda line. They need degresed (all brands do) and deburred some but work great. When pricing chucks pay attention to how many sets of jaws come with the chuck. Many only come with 1 set. I find uses for all the chuck sets that come with the Barracudas. My 2nd choice is Grizzly. Pay attention to serrated or dovetail jaw x sections - I prefer serrated, many prefer dovetail.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Just went to a hollow form demonstration (1-13/2018) nationally recognized turners frequent. The fellow demonstrating was good (understatement). He [unknowingly] mocked my Nova chucks because they were not dovetails. As he put it, dovetails, used properly, don't throw hollow forms like serrated jaws do.

I have two new-ish Nova chucks and just had three new jaws delivered. I hate him. 

By the way, he mentioned he never lost a bowl or vessel using a face plate.

The other day, I experimented with using plywood disks to give me a temporary grab for turning. Don't. The plys may or may not hold and you can push to the "may not."


----------



## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Knock on wood after about 5 years I have yet to throw a hollow form, bowl, or anything from serrated jaws. Dovetails need correct angles and sizing, serrated jaws dont, which is why I prefer them.


----------



## CXYyuppie (Jan 14, 2018)

So would a home made donut jig be suitable to use to finish the bottom of a bowl?


----------



## LeeMills (Nov 2, 2014)

> He [unknowingly] mocked my Nova chucks because they were not dovetails. As he put it, dovetails, used properly, don t throw hollow forms like serrated jaws do.
> By the way, he mtioned he never lost a bowl or vessel using a face plate.
> - Kelly


That is why Nova calls their normal jaws bowl jaws. For hollow forms you need Nova's spigot jaws, and yes the spigot jaws are serrated and made to use with a tenon over an inch long. Almost impossible to break a tenon or to leverage out of the chuck. Typically a dovetail mount is 1/2" or less in length, many use only 1/4" length. Only four of Nova's many jaws are serrated on the interior.

I use both types but for hollow form (spindle orientation) I always us the spigot jaws.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Good stuff to know, Lee. One of the three jaws I just added to the collection was a large spigot.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

If it holds the pieces tight, I would think so. Too, not that much work goes on detailing the last little bit at the bottom, compared to hollowing and such.



> So would a home made donut jig be suitable to use to finish the bottom of a bowl?
> 
> - CXYyuppie


----------



## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

> So would a home made donut jig be suitable to use to finish the bottom of a bowl?
> 
> - CXYyuppie


Yes!


----------



## LeeMills (Nov 2, 2014)

> Good stuff to know, Lee. One of the three jaws I just added to the collection was a large spigot.
> - Kelly


The Poiwergrips (100mm)? What were the other two out of coriosity?


----------



## LeeMills (Nov 2, 2014)

> So would a home made donut jig be suitable to use to finish the bottom of a bowl?
> - CXYyuppie


Like the others I vote Yes.
I even have the materials to make one (over a year) and may get to it this spring.
I would prefer a donut over Cole Jaws or Longsworth.
I just use use a friction drive and leave a little nub for now which I sand off when removed from the lathe.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

This would be the package. I'm up to six jaws in the vortex, with regard to Nova chucks, now.










https://www.cpooutlets.com/nova-6037-3-piece-large-jaw-assortment-bundle/nvan6037,default,pd.html?ref=pla&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=722&zmap=nvan6037&gclid=Cj0KCQiAv_HSBRCkARIsAGaSsrAHcmVqiySYeiO1YblLLEhTCfNtlg9X-hCo3EZnslqkTnnShzyFYbsaAkyREALw_wcB



> Good stuff to know, Lee. One of the three jaws I just added to the collection was a large spigot.
> - Kelly
> 
> The Poiwergrips (100mm)? What were the other two out of coriosity?
> ...


----------



## LeeMills (Nov 2, 2014)

Didn't realize they offered that set. Learned something new. Nice price also.
I really like the 75mm long nose. Much more useful to me than the 70mm or 75mm bowl jaws.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

Been a while since I posted to this thread…been a busy summer. Now that things are slowing down I can concentrate on getting my woodturning setup complete.

I ordered a chuck last night, it's a Nova SuperNova2 and I got a package deal that includes 4 sets of jaws and a square spur. I will definitely be doing some bowls, so the inclusion of the JCole jaws make this set worth it for me.

Next on my list will be a sharpening system. I will probably go with the Oneway Wolverine/Vari-grind system paired with a Rikon 80-805 1750rpm grinder. The Tormec clones also have my interest peaked, but I have yet to really research them.

After the sharpening, I will get my tools. Currently I have only one tool, a Woodpeckers Square Carbide that I picked up at a WW show a while back. This at least gave me the ability to turn some logs into blanks from a River Birch I fell in late spring.


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Okay, no excuses then. Let's see some turning projects on your projects page. ;-)

I personally like sharpening on the belt sander myself ( I made my own jig similar to the $orby Proedge design) but the Wolverine system has a lot of fans and yields great results.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

Well, I do have one more excuse… can't find an insert for the chuck. Teknatools list my lathe as requiring the IRNS model insert. I can't find one on the internet anywhere. Oddly enough, Teknatools even got it wrong on there site, the show a model with a 5/8" bore in the image and in the heading. I actually contacted them and they said it was wrong on the site and it would be addressed.

I'm betting the IDNS would fit, but it lacks the set screw to secure it. They also have the IXNS which fits the Nova Comet II lathe which has a set screw, but my guess is the sets crew is not in the proper location.

So, anyone know where to find a Nova insert for a Jet 1221vs?


----------



## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

You can always get a plain inser and drill& tap it.

As for sharpening, I have the Grizzly wet sharpener. I only use it to resharpen gouges. Reshaping/bevel angle changes take forever. I use a bench grinder with the tormek tool rest and jigs. I had the wet grinder stuff otherwise I would use the vari grind jig. Slow grinder or belt sander is the way to go - belt sander requires some design work and jig making, bench grinder with the varigrind kit is more $ but quick & easy set up. Depends on your abilities/$'s & time.

For tools I recommend Benjamins Best, Hurricane or other low priced hi value hss tools, especially gouges. You will want to try various tip shapes and bevel angles, as there are many that can be used. Also have to learn how to sharpen. Its part of learning turning. Better to grind up $25 tools while learning vs $100+. Once you know what you like then a thompson or other makes sense. Learn to use hss tools vs carbide. I made a set of carbide holders early on. I rarely use them and never need them.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Statements regarding HSS trumping carbide could be qualified with, "it depends on what you're doing."

For example, I was cleaning edges of disks I'd made out of plastics using a hole saw. Using sharp HSS, I had to spend a lot of time working my way through grits and polishes.

Bolting ten together cut back on time, but it still took a half hour to work the disks. Then I took a carbide tipped knife I bought used to the 1" sander, touched it up and tried scraping. I was done in moments and did not have to do ANY sanding or polishing.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Got that same set, Rob. Love it. Even more so as I add chuck bases to my collection so I only have to swap dedicated chucks and bases.

I agree on the Hurricane and Benjamin's recommendations. I've already made one of my gouges half the length it was since I acquired it.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

My sharpening toys, uh, tools, are all over the board. They include a buff station (floor model AirHandler with squirell cage and filters) off craigslist for $100.00, a four wheel grinding station with a reversible, variable speed 3/4 horse motor (another craigslist score) and a 1" Delta belt.

I installed CBN wheels on two of the slots of the four wheel grinder and they are gold. Even more so paired with the Wolverine jigs. As great as they are, I agree with Lazyman. My 1" belt sits right behind the lathes for quick touch ups.

PS You can make a four wheel grinder using pillow blocks, rods, pulleys and couplers. The mess can be mounted on a wood frame or a steel one. The DC motors can be gotten for about $100.00 and allow you to drop clear down to a couple hundred RPM, to avoid eating a lot of metal and generating a lot of heat.


----------



## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

> Statements regarding HSS trumping carbide could be qualified with, "it depends on what you re doing."
> 
> For example, I was cleaning edges of disks I d made out of plastics using a hole saw. Using sharp HSS, I had to spend a lot of time working my way through grits and polishes.
> 
> ...


Ive done quite well trimming plastic with hss scrapers, seem to work better than carbide because of the sharper edge, but thats my experience, others could see something different.


----------



## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Must be an "[e]ye of the beholder" kind of thing, so to speak. My HSS started good, but had to be sharpened shortly after starting, whether I used a skew or a scraper. Since I got a "done straight from scraping on the lathe" result using a carbide scraper, I'd say there was no need for any sharper edge, other than the usual need for touching up the carbide edge before I started, which works fine on my 1" belt.



> Ive done quite well trimming plastic with hss scrapers, seem to work better than carbide because of the sharper edge, but thats my experience, others could see something different.
> 
> - OSU55


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

Does anyone have an "IRNS" insert for their Jet 1221vs lathe?

I have been trying to find one for the last couple of weeks and still have not seen one. Every listing I find for the IRNS has a different model pictured (Nova stamps a letter on each one for ID purposes). I'm beginning to think this model doesn't exist and Nova may have gotten it wrong on the site (as there are other errors in regards to this on the site).

I did purchase an IDNS and it seems to fit well, but it will require a set screw to be installed, which is no biggie. I just don't want to damage my lathe by installing the wrong insert.


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I just glanced at the manual for your lathe and it appears that the faceplate that comes with the lathe has set screws on it . Perhaps you can compare where the faceplate's set screws hit on the spindle to where the ones on the Nova insert hit. It might be as simple as measuring how far in from the back each the set screws are. As long as the set screw hits an unthreaded part of the spindle (aka the register) you won't do any damage at least. Plus, you only need to use the set screw if you run the lathe in reverse. As long as you make sure that the chuck is hand threaded all the way on so that the back of the chuck is tight against the flange, normal operation (counterclockwise) naturally tightens the faceplate or chuck onto the lathe as you turn. Many faceplates and chucks don't even have a set screw because of that. There are probably only a few situations where it is useful to run the spindle clockwise and frankly for a beginner to novice turner, that might never be a must have capability.

Note: You are can damage the spindle if you *use *the set screws and forget to back them out far enough so that they don't touch the threads as you unscrew a chuck or faceplate from the spindle.


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

I will probably end up tapping the insert, so good suggestion about using the faceplate as a reference. Thank you.


----------



## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Your insert only has x amount of width to put a grub screw in. I don't think a faceplate will help as it's not the same as the insert. The thing you need to be concerned is if you get another insert and chuck later on, if it already has the grub screw, it more than likely will set in the same place as the one you've been using.

I have multiple chucks, with 3 that have inserts. I only bought one insert with a grub screw, and got the other two without. The insert with the grub was screwed on until it bottomed out. I marked the spindle aligned with the grub screw. removed the insert, then screwed another on, and marked it aligning with the mark on the spindle. Did the same on the third insert, then drilled and tapped them They all seat with the grub screw bottoming at the same place on the spindle…............... Jerry (in Tucson)


----------



## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> I did purchase an IDNS and it seems to fit well, but it will require a set screw to be installed, which is no biggie. I just don't want to damage my lathe by installing the wrong insert.


There is no reason you can't use it without the set screw is there? Isn't it just to keep it from unscrewing when you are running the lathe in reverse?

Cheers,
Brad


----------



## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

> I did purchase an IDNS and it seems to fit well, but it will require a set screw to be installed, which is no biggie. I just don't want to damage my lathe by installing the wrong insert.
> 
> There is no reason you can t use it without the set screw is there? Isn t it just to keep it from unscrewing when you are running the lathe in reverse?
> 
> ...


As far as I can tell you are correct. The insert fits snugly up against the spindle's shoulder and appears good to go.


----------

