# Makita 2030 jointer planer combo Machine



## 559dustdesigns

I am going to go check out a Makita jointer planer model 2030 in the morning. The machine is listed on Craigslist. I am hoping its a good machine for my hobbyist needs. Has anyone here got any information, concerns, or knowledge regarding these machines? Here is one that was restored and fixed up. I found it on smc. Thanks for any info, it will be appreciated.


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## Ingjr

Never owned one, but I've read a lot about them from others that did own them. Don't recall anything negative was said about them, and TONS of positive stuff. What what I've heard they are an excellent machine.


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## NathanAllen

I used to use one at the shop I had access to while in high school, they're amazing.


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## oluf

I have one that I purchased new in 1982. I have run thousands of BF of oak and cherry through it to say nothing of the new England pine that I ran through it for years. I have two sets of high speed steel blades for it and A Makita blade sharpening grinder for it. Even if you have someone sharpen your blades it is much less expensive than having to replace the blades when they get dull like most of the newer units. The long (56" ) joiner is super for getting your stock flat. I am still using the same belt and brushes that came with it.


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## Wood_Chuck

I own a Jet and love it, picked it up second hand. I have used it a lot.


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## 559dustdesigns

Update I drove up there only to find the it needs its rollers redone. The owner played it off like he didn't know. Those machines have feed rollers that get brittle and crack apart. The listing said excellent condition. I did some research and found that it will be about 170+ shipping to have the rollers redone.he gave me a fair price and I would give him that if he changed the rollers. I said the best I'd do was 150 off but he didn't even consider it. This guy was really nice and took very good care of his machine. He started telling me all the bad things about the machine and how he mad a mistake buying it 15 years ago. He told me He didn't need a jointer or planer anymore that he could get enough cuts or seams on the table saw. I think I made the right choice and not dump extra money in a machine that needs major parts replaced before use.What do you think?


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## Hyperhutch

I purchased a Makita 15" Planer Model 2040, knowing full well that the rollers were junk. Evidently (according to everything I could find online), it's standard to have to replace or re-cover the rollers in these machines. I bet the same material was used for the rollers in your 2030.

On the plus side, everyone seems to really like both the 2030 and 2040. It may be worth the effort to repair, considering how much it costs to get two separate machines of similar quality. Of course, it all depends on what price you can get it for. I got a great deal, but if your seller won't come down I would wait for something else.

Hutch

P.S. As for repairing used machinery, I think it's well worth doing as a general rule. I have been doing that, and I now have some very nice American made equipment (not the planer) that works great, and I know the ins and outs of each machine.


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## lwllms

I bought my 2040 new in 1980. I've used a number of planers over the years in schools and other people's shops. I haven't found any that compare in the quality and ease of use. I did replace the rollers once and even the motor once but the machine has cost very little over it's 30 year history given the thousands and thousands of board feet it has planed. There are a lot of planers that'll do the job faster but then I've found I give back all that time and more when it comes to cleaning up the surface those other planers leave. That planer is one of the best tool investments I made over the years.


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## manumurf

I just had a roller recovered for my 4×132 edge sander. It was a drum 6" tall and 5" diiameter with about a half inch thick rubber coating. It cost about $110, plus shipping both ways. I am sure the rubber is not nearly as thick on those makita rollers. You might give this guy a call and see how much it would be. Real quick service too. Had it back in a week or so. Calif. to New York and back.
http://www.jjshort.com/index.php


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## 559dustdesigns

Thanks guys I appreciate all the information. This is the third machine I have considered for my shop in the last month. With all the pointers from you guys along with the homework I did on the internet, I haven't found the right machine to purchase at this time. I honestly would love to find a really neat older machine to restore, but have way to many projects that I need to finish first. I understand the rollers on the 2030 are not a quick and easy removal.


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## 559dustdesigns

New update. After thinking I wasn't going to buy this machine and shouldn't buy another project, I received an email from the seller. He needed the money and would except my previous offer so I negotiated 25$'s less to cover about half the gas money to drive back to his place (175 miles north of me). So yesterday, I bought the Makita jointer planer combo machine and have already removed the rollers to be sent off for recoating. I was also able to start a list of issues that need to be addressed in order to bring this machine back to life. So far no major problems, the jointer fence is held into the main casting with two small bolts. Both these bolts are striped out. This casting is aluminum and may be a difficult repair being the casting is only about a 1/4 inch thick on this section.
I feel that I studied this purchase decision thoroughly and am happy with this machine. With your used machinery purchases, make sure you consider every problem you could have and don't always trust the sellers description of the tools condition. I plan to post pictures and blog this tools restoration. Right now I need to budget and research for these repairs and parts, it may take some time.


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## NegativeZero

Congratulations on the new tool! I bought my Makita 2030 last month. Mine also needed new rollers, so I had to buy it without being able to test its cutting. I received the rollers back from Western Roller Corp last week and installed them yesterday. Now everything seems to run okay.

I think that I need to get the blades sharpened as the cut is not as smooth as I expected, but I am using 80-year-old fir for my testing (scrap I took out of my house when I refinished a room. I had no idea the wood was beautiful, but now I am going to reuse it all! The machine has almost paid for itself already.

Do you have the manual? If not, let me know and I can post a copy, as mine came with the original. Also, if you need tips on setting blade heights or anything let me know, as I have found a few resources since I bought mine while I was waiting for the rollers. The one thing that I am curious about is where replacement blades can be found. I think I saw someone post that they had bought carbide blades for this machine, which sounds interesting to me.

I hope your purchase works out as well as mine.

-Will


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## 559dustdesigns

Just decided to post some pics of the newest addition to my arsenal of wood weapons.






This is what the little machine looked like before I broke it down to start its restoration.


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## OCSCOTT

Hi,
I have a Makita 2030 that I bought used 2 years ago for $450. Other than having to replace the rollers, mine is in tip top shape as yours appears to be. I used an outfit out of Atlanta to recoat the shafts with urethane.
Much, much cheaper than buying new. About $140 delivered and back to me within a week. Reinstalling is straightforward; no adjustments are needed nor can be made on the 2030. They are held in place by springs as I recall, so are self-seating. I have a poor copy of a 2030 owners manual that I'll forward if you send me an email. The clarity isn't good but it's readable. It's in Adobe format and I can't seem to load it here. 
One suggestion; I've placed casters on the wood runners and it makes it easy to manuever the machine around my shop. I sharpened the blades myself on a power wet stone, but I later had them professionally sharpened ($30) and the difference was amazing. Wear ear protection when using due to its high pitch squeal. I took a large box that a power washer came in and cut down one side about 6 inches to collect most of the chips that come out of the planer. Great machine! Good luck! Scott in Ocean City, Md.


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## Nur

I just bought a used 2030. There's a lot of surface rust on the jointer and planer, and there were a few acorns cached in the housing above the planer blades. But, it came with new replacement rollers and new blades for both the planer and jointer. The owner sold it all to me for $80! That's we he had paid a few years ago. He never used the machine, but wasn't looking to make a profit. Very impressive.

It didn't come with a manual though. Does anyone have a copy of the manual as a pdf that they could send my way? Many thanks, in advance.

Nur in New Hampshire


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## najumcju

Nur, If you haven't got a manual, I've got it in PDF form for the 2030N & 2030S I can send you.


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## Nur

@ najumcju:

Thanks! I'd love to have the manuals. I've been slowly working on the machine. I just re-installed the rollers yesterday. But, I still have to reinstall the knives, the outfeed rollers and a few other parts, so the manual would be a big help. Thanks again.


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## danob

Does anybody know how to change the main drive belt in a Makita Planer/jointer model 2030, or alternately, where I could get this information.
Dan Brown


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## danob

Does anybody know how to change the main drive belt in a Makita Planer/jointer model 2030, or alternately, where I could get this information.
Dan Brown


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## LotsaCaulk

I have one of these in the gold finish (does that make it Series 1 or 2 ?) that was a curbside rescue (read: free) and it works admirably for planing, I have not been able to use the joiner bed because the rollers have completely disintegrated. The blade on the joiner end looks mint but the planer has a few small nicks in it. I am debating whether to spend the $$ for rollers and possible blade replacement/sharpening. @Najumcju - I would appreciate a pointer to any manual you may have available, thanks in advance !


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## danob

Here is a link to the manual.
http://www.makita.ca/data/upload/tools/2030%20-%20Revised_parts_English.pdf
db


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## kjb

I need to have a set of rollers for a 2040 recoated. Does anyone know the thickness??


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## kimby

Found Manuals! Better late than never. 
http://www.makita.ca/data/upload/tools/2030%20-%20EN,FR_owner_English.pdf

For Model 2040 and parts lists on both, check out the Model # at http://www.makita.ca/data/upload/tools/


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## wrenchguy

as of 12-19-12 it cost me 209.50 to have j.j. short recover makita 2040 feed rollers. i have a type 1 and had a hell of a time reinstalling them to factory specs. don't over tighten roller pressure springs, u'll burn up plain bearing. call me if u want tips or help. mike @ 50eight-33three-933six.


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## 559dustdesigns

Here are the photos that were lost above.


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## MrUnix

Did you ever tear it down and do a restoration or did you just do what was needed to get it working Aaron? Looks like there wasn't really much that needed to be done.

Cheers,
Brad


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## 559dustdesigns

Brad I did tear it down but I have been unemployed and also went though some health problems. I still have intentions of restoring that machine but its been sitting waiting for funds and attention, that I haven't had. I do have it torn down about 90% of the way. I also had the treads for the fence rods repaired by a local machinist. How is your machine coming along? If I remember right you have two of these Makita 2030's. If you have restored pictures of yours I'd like to see them.


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## NormG

Congrats


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## MrUnix

Yup, I have two of these beasts.. the first one I purchased sounds like it's at about the same stage as yours. The second one I purchased, for what I thought was parts, turned out to be in pristine shape and only needing some blades sharpened. Since I have the second machine working, I haven't been in a real big hurry to get the other machine functional. I'm currently stuck on the first machine with trying to get the base off.. I have removed the spring pins and soaked the posts for months with PB blaster and WD-40 and they still won't budge. I'm sure there is a secret to getting the thing apart, but I haven't found it yet! Once I do, it should go pretty quick as I have already obtained everything else that I need (new bearings, missing bits, blades sharpened, etc..).

Cheers,
Brad


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## 559dustdesigns

Brad I got the base off with the help of my buddy who helped pull the base loose. If I recall after knocking the roll pins out we just pulled the two parts apart. I wasn't able to budge it by myself. Are you planning to replace the machine screws I remember removing a bunch of screams using my vice grips cause they're really tight and really soft metal.


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## MrUnix

I'm guessing you are talking about the screws holding the roller brackets? Those were a PITA to get out and I do remember tearing a couple up on the first machine, so those will be replaced. On the second machine, after trying a normal screwdriver and getting nowhere fast, I got smart and used a good fitting #2 Phillips bit in a 1/4" ratchet and they came out easily without any damage.










I'll keep banging on that darn base.. it's rusted on there pretty good but it has to give up sooner or later 

Cheers,
Brad


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## skd

I just picked up a Makita 2030 Type 1 planer jointer, but the planer doesn't cut. First, I thought the rollers were bad, but they look okay to me-old, but okay. Second, I thought the blades needed to be adjusted, but there is a picture on the machine that says for a "zero-cut" (as close as it can be without removing material) the depth-of-cut button indicator should be *just barely touching* the wood at its fully-down position, leaving 4mm between the wood and the frame of the machine…..and I measured 6mm with the digital calipers.

Sooooo….This leads me to think that my rollers are 4mm too big in diameter (thus extending the rollers 2mm beyond the reach of the blades)...as though they swelled over the years or replaced with an incorrect replacement. The second picture shows a board contacting both rollers and showing a 2mm gap past the end of the depth-of-cut button indicator thingy (meaning the "zero-cut" distance is now 6mm from the surface of the machine).

The machine looks like it's hardly been used and the jointer cuts great. The bolts and screws look like they've never been turned before.

any ideas? Have the rollers swelled? Are the blades at the wrong depth? Any ideas?


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## MrUnix

Feed rollers are spring loaded and will (or should) move up slightly when feeding material.

Cheers,
Brad


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## skd

I'll try smacking the rollers a bit with a rubber mallet where they attach to the body of the machine….because they definitely aren't moving. I guess they're frozen. Not surprising considering the bed height was frozen when I bought it and had to be disassembled/relubed.

Thanks!


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## MrUnix

Then I would suggest yanking them out, making sure the bearings are in good shape and giving them a little grease. They are only held in by 4 screws (2 each side).

Cheers,
Brad


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## pontic

I have one for sale. New rollers two sets of blades for both planer and jointer. moble base.
650 dollars works great.
Contact [email protected]


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## pontic

Sorry; sold the Makita 2030N.


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## Islandwoodworker

I bought one new in the early 80s and it has done a lot of wood when I built my house. As everyones, the rollers were made from s o me dog crap material and will literally fall off. Got them recovered at Western Roller in Bend, Oregon. Cheaper than replacements and better material. Nice folks to work with.

The screws that hold them in are a bear to get out. Soak them with P B Blaster then take a phillips driver tip and hold it in the cross slot with a large C clamp across the machine. Put an open end wrench on the tip and turn it just enough to free it. Take off the clamp and finish turning out the screw.

When you re assemble, replace the screws with socket head cap screws and use a hex key (Allen wrench)


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## DMiller

Is the Makita 2030 a 110v or 220v machine? Iv'e heard the Makita 2040 is 110v; is this correct? Thanks


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## MrUnix

(Both of mine are the same)

Cheers,
Brad


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## DMiller

Thanks for the help. I am an young woodworker without access to 220v. Thanks for the quick reply.


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## ShanghaiPete

@SKD - I know your comments are almost 2 years old, but in case you happen to look at this thread. Did you ever figure out why your rollers were lower than the blade? I've having exactly the same problem (and about the same distance) with a 2030N.

Thanks!


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## skd

@ShanghaiPete:

I sold that planer ages ago, but I think I remember removing the rollers and cleaning them. I believe it was just as MrUnix (above) mentioned, that they are spring loaded and the parts that allowed them to move up and down were simply corroded and stuck from having sat in someone else's garage for so long.

Hope that helps!


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## wannabehandyman

Trying to locate a base for my 2030


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## hturner12

Hello
This is my first post here. I also know this a very old post. I recently picked up a 2030, old Craftsman RAS, a Black and Decker/ Dewalt RAS and a Delta miter saw. I am designing a log home that we plan on building in the next couple of years. Going to use our own timber for floors(oak ) 1600 bf, Cabinets (hickory) about 500bf and inside walls (pine) 2500 bf.
The 2030 powers up has some surface rust on the tables , comes off with light sanding. The rollers covering are toast, have sent an email to western roller for cost.

For the jointer have to have the cutter all the way up. The planer is not cutting . Sincr the rollers are toast just tried to manual feed. The rollers in the table were stiff spayed them with PB Blaster that freed them up.

Once I get the rust off, do I shoot with clear urethane or just wax it?

Thanks
Hugh


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## Kennie

Najumcju or NegativeZero, if you wouldn't mind I would really appreciate a copy of the 2030 manual. Just picked up a 2030 yesterday and am not at all familiar with them. Any resources for blade heights etc would be very welcome.

thanks


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## MrUnix

Manual can be found here. (Makita Canada)
Knife height is set using two blocks of wood… no measurements or other tools needed.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Kennie

thanks for the help


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## ssaffrin

Received a Makita 2030 Planer/Jointer and a Makita 2116 Bandsaw very graciously from my uncle. I think it had been a few years since they'd been used. The cast iron surfaces were rusted pretty good on both machines, but I was able to sand them and get them flat. I've used the jointer several times on white oak and pretty amazed at the results (I'm used to a small cutech bench-top jointer).

The planer was stuck in the highest position; I coated it in rust remover and came back after an hour and it started to budge. Once I began lowering the planer, what appeared to be beeswax came falling out and getting all over. I just figured it was a former bees nest, but after reading the above comments I think this was what was left of the rubber from the rollers. I was able to remove both rollers fairly easily and after soaking in some warm water are just bare steel now. I contacted Western Roller and they will re-coat for $86.23 each.

Given this machine is pushing 40 years, wondering if having these rollers are worth the investment or if I should keep the machine as a jointer and put that money toward a newer planer, like the Dewalt 735?

Also, if anyone knows anything about the 2116 Bandsaw? It's a beast of a machine, weighing nearly 300 lbs and has a fat 2" wide blade.


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