# Framing a Mirror: How do you affix the mirror?



## paxorion

My wife and I picked up a mirror from Ikea (MINDE) that I have been promising to frame for a long time. After many years sitting in our closet, I am hoping to finally get the ball rolling on knocking out this project in the spring. I have a fair amount of white oak sitting in my basement waiting to be used for this project and wanted to get some advice on how I can affix the mirror to the frame.

For the frame, I am planning on cutting rabbet along the inside edge followed by mitered in the corners, so that about ~1/2 an inch of mirror is inset into the frame on all corners. The part of the project that I have yet to nail down is how I should affix the mirror into the frame. All the web research I have done seems to advocate for adhesives in the frame. Personally I don't like the idea of using adhesives (for example, if the mirror itself was cracked and I decided to replace just the mirror).

And so I turn to the LumberJocks community. I would like to hear some alternate ideas or techniques that any of you might have to share with a newbie woodworker. If you were going to build a mitered frame for a mirror, how would you affix the mirror?


----------



## salewis3

Think of the mirror as if it were a picture. Set the mirror into the rabbet, use a backing board, like foamcore or cardboard, and use points or brads to secure the mirror into the frame. You won't need any glue at all.

The use of a backing board is important so that the silvering doesn't get scratched.

Happy framing!!


----------



## SamuraiSaw

I've used hot glue guns. If the mirror has to be replaced, a hairdryer set on high will loosen the glue.


----------



## dhazelton

I have one of these point drivers I picked up at a yard sale for three bucks (had I known how much they cost I would have picked up the second one there). It shoots about a 3/4 inch long point and it's nice because you hold it flat to the backing of your picture or mirror so no rattling. You could try a Michaels or Hobby Lobby type place.

http://www.mmdistributors.com/Frame-Master-Point-Driver-07-555-p/1018.htm


----------



## Earlextech

My wife was a picture framer for 30 years, salewis3 is exactly right.


----------



## wjbclocks

I did work for a manufactor of picture framing mat cutters and glass cutting tools tey also make the driver points.
I know that salewis3 has gining some very good advise.


----------



## MNgary

I have a 30×60 inch mirror we salvaged from a clothing store. Because of the size I used eighth inch masonite as the backer with 1-1/2 inch brads/nails driven 2/3's into the frame 12" apart. Nails were horizontal, not through the masonite and the mirror just left loose.

The salewis3 method.

PS I predrilled for the nails using the next size smaller brad so I could push into place rather than hammer.


----------



## Randy_ATX

I've framed a fair number of mirrors and agree with the comments about doing it like a picture frame. Measure thickness of mirror, add 1/8" for backer board (hard masonite from HomeDepot, etc…) this is the the depth of your rabbit. I've done the rabbits with both the table saw or straight router bit and table. After finishing the frame, set your mirror in, backer board and then I like to pre-drill and put these holders about every 6 inches to sandwich in the mirror and back.

If it is a good sized mirror with some weight, I would make sure your miters are strong, perhaps throwing some biscuits in there and well glued up joints.

Good luck!


----------



## Finn

I took a 36" x 36" mirror frame I made to a glazier and he cut a mirror to fit and secured it with clear silicone caulk all around. That was over 25 years ago and it still is holding up well.


----------



## paxorion

Thanks everyone for the information. I am curious about the backer board. I get the sense that most of you cut the backer board to roughly the same size as the mirror itself? I suppose I'm having a hard time visualizing what the end product is supposed to look like.

Also, I am hoping to minimize the investment into any additional tools if possible, so I thought I'd toss out an idea that you all inspired. At the moment, I believe the mirror is 3/16" If I were to cut the rabbet groove to be slightly larger than the mirror, can I perhaps pad the excess space with ~1/2" of 3/16" hardboard to fill the groove. With that padding, I could cut the backer board to be 1" larger in length and width, and use pan-head screws to hold the mirror in place. Any thoughts or glaring concerns about this approach (e.g. wood movement)?


----------



## salewis3

Paxorion,

Typically, the backing board and the glass are the same size, and the frame is cut 1/8" larger leaving an allowance for the materials to expand and contract. The rabbet is typically 1/4" wide, and deep enough to accommodate the materials it contains.

Your idea of a stepped rabbet is sound, but more work than you really need to do. The steps should match the thickness of the materials so there isn't any slop (in the thickness. There should still be an allowance.)

However, simple brads every 5-7 inches along the rail lengths will hold well and not cost much. But you should do what makes you happy.

Scott


----------



## paxorion

Sounds like I might be over thinking things.

Salewis3 - How would you recommend the brads go in? Would it be perpendicular through the backing board into the frame material, or should it go in at an ~45 degree angle through the backing board and into the frame?


----------



## Bogeyguy

Pax, ditto what salewis3 advises. You won't be disappointed. You can buy glazer points at any hardware store and some come with a small drive tool to set them into the wood. One more thing, why are you waiting until spring. It's winter my friend, time for wifey projects. Spring is time to get outdoors.


----------



## AlaskaGuy

Do the glazier points go into hardwood well?


----------



## AlaskaGuy

Found this on another web site.


----------



## paxorion

Bogeyguy - I'm waiting until spring because I actually do all my work outdoors. It's pretty painfully cold at the moment, so I'm not in a rush to dive headfirst into things. Frozen fingers will likely mean careless choices.


----------



## salewis3

Insert the brads this way. Fletcher Framer's points will work well in hard or soft wood. Glazier's points can work, but they are shorter (to hide under the glazing compound when used to secure window glass in mullion framework.)

Rockler used to sell a bunch of this stuff, you can also source via art supply stores.

Brads are still cheaper for the occasional use. Pointdrivers can cost $80 or more.

Best,

Scott


----------



## paxorion

Pictures definitely are worth a thousand words…your suggestion now makes a whole lot more sense. Thanks Scott


----------



## Chovpisl

I moved my home in Texas last year. I carried everything by big Truck, unfortunately my customized mirrors get broken. Yes, we fall same problem sometimes. Friend suggested me to hire the Home/Mirror Affix Service provider. They did a good job for me.


----------



## KoriDee

> I ve framed a fair number of mirrors and agree with the comments about doing it like a picture frame. Measure thickness of mirror, add 1/8" for backer board (hard masonite from HomeDepot, etc…) this is the the depth of your rabbit. I ve done the rabbits with both the table saw or straight router bit and table. After finishing the frame, set your mirror in, backer board and then I like to pre-drill and put these holders about every 6 inches to sandwich in the mirror and back.
> 
> If it is a good sized mirror with some weight, I would make sure your miters are strong, perhaps throwing some biscuits in there and well glued up joints.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> - Randy_ATX


I'm about to start a 3" wide 6/4 walnut frame for a 58" x 42" bathroom mirror. My plan was to use 4" L-brackets to support the miters but you've got me second guessing it's strength, Randy!

Any thoughts on making the miters stronger? What about supporting it from the bottom with angle iron (instead of hanging it with an aluminum cleat)?


----------



## GrantA

Kori, with tight miters and a good glue up there's no need to add anything for strength. Biscuits or splines could help with alignment if you'd like. I like to let use a cleat that spans almost the whole width so that it's attached to the two sides, not just the top rail. Since its for a bathroom you also may be able to let it sit hard on top of a backsplash depending on profiles and the desired result


----------

