# Bed Frame construction



## NorthSummitWW

I'm looking to build a bed frame very soon and I'm wondering if anybody has suggestions on how to do the joinery that meets the side stretchers to the head and foot board. I would obviously like to be able to assemble and disassemble it if needed. If possible I'm trying to avoid store bought brackets or metal hardware but am having a hard time thinking of a suitable joint that can be disassembled and still be strong enough. I'm not completely opposed to the hardware idea but if I can I'd like to do it with joinery. Any ideas? Thanks!


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## Cinch123

How about a through mortise with a tusk tenon? You would not be able to slide it all the way against the wall (the tenon and tusk take up a little room) but you would be able to knock out the tusk and pull the bed rails out of the head and foot board.


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## Cosmicsniper

Love that idea, Cinch. A sliding dovetail is another good approach.


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## TimberFramerBob

a simple mortise and tenon joint would work fine(trust me),....oak peg that you could knock out, maybe even draw bore it…..plenty strong and you can get it tight to the wall. A through tenon with a wedge might work loose….depending on how much your bed moves…..


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## renners

A minimal amount of hardware for your consideration if you can't find a joint that fits










I've done a couple of beds with these and they're very strong with stub tenons or dowels on the rails.


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## needshave

I'm building one right now using Mortise and Stub tenons. Drawing tight with two hex head bolts on each corner thru the tenons into barrel nuts in the rail. The head of the bolt is covered by fake tenons on the outside. It is very very strong and I wanted it that way. The bed is for my son and new wife and well…....it's for my son and his new wife!


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## pintodeluxe

I would use FWW's method of bolts hidden under faux tenons. Here is a link to the video series…
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/56992/build-a-mission-style-bed

I would hate to try to bang apart a pegged M&T joint just to move a bed.


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## stefang

There's a great article in FFW mag. dated Feb. 2005 issue no. 175 by Jeff Miller. He shows several different excellent options for what you want to know about. You can also find the same article at this link if you have access.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodworking-plans/article/anatomy-of-a-bed.aspx


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## sawdustsux

I realize you mentioned you didn't want to use hardware if at all possible…I just want to show you the system I used a few months ago…The brackets are from Rockler…Believe me when I say I am a type of woodworker that does not like to use even a brad nail, but these brackets made the Bed VERY strong, it doesn't move, not at all.
And, they are un-seen. But I do understand your "want" to use a traditional wood joint.
I still use wooden drawer runners on everything, except kitchens, I like to use joinery also, but just give it a look.


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## pete57

I have built several beds, each being better and better, but I use a mortise and tenon joint. I us a 1/2" mortise in the leg and a tenon on the rail. I drill 2 one inch holes from the other side about 1 inch deep and then a 3/8 inch hole through to the mortise. I fit the tenon into the leg and drill the holes 1 inch more. There is a bolt online at Fastenal called a hanger bolt. I use them about 3/8 X 5 inches and do that to all 4 legs. I have a couple solid 3/8 solid capped nut to get the screw down to the washer (3/8 washers are 1 inch in diameter and back that off to put a regular nut on. The legs at the end of the bed you see I use Escutcheons to cover those. Some use one dead center but I do not like my beds to squeak at all. I could never afford those nice bed bolts and had this stuff readily available in my work. I have a tall pencil post bed now and when I want to take it down I just undo the the nuts and load it up. If I lose the nuts and washers, it is less that if you lose the bed bolts?? I have done this for a couple customers and they liked it.


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## NorthSummitWW

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I think a tusk tenon is just too bulky for the style of bed I'm going to be making. I think I've narrowed it down to either straight up hardware or a stub tendon with a bolt through the other side. I'm going to have to agree with pintodeluxe on not wanting to bang a peg out of a mortise and tenon just to move a bed. although I love the idea of using all wood joinery incorporating some sort of hardware is just so more practical. I think I have a little more designing to do before I make a final decision but as expected lumberjocks to the rescue!


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## roman

What ever floats your boat works in the end

I no longer debate the merits of what works for some and what works for others but this one works for me.

I move a lot.
My life requires me to do so.
I hate beds that break
I'm not fond of a squeeky bed
I have to be able to move it in and out easily
it cannot fail

ever

The bed has to be able to go through hell and back

Mortise and tenon combined with mechanical fixture

In the end, its only a luxury of holding a mattress off the floor


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## roman

that mortise and tenon, pulled together with a bolt ….its locked solid

think about it

its not much different then a nice work bench

?


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## NorthSummitWW

Moron that's a great way to look at it, in the end what works, works right? As far as what the needs of this project goes I think the mortise and tenon pulled together with a bolt seems to fit those needs the best.

In the end a bed that doesn't squeak or hit the floor will help me sleep at night rather knowing that it's being held together with some sort of fanciful journey. Now to the sketchbook!


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## TCCcabinetmaker

stopped dove tail joint on the rail. Never tried it, but it should work.


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## sprucegum

neeshave's method with the stub tendons and bolts is a very solid design I made one that way for the wife and I when we were younger still holding up well :-} I think rockler sells some nifty little brass bed bolt covers.


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## Wally331

http://woodgears.ca/queen_size_bed/rails.html here check this out, it looks pretty strong, read the bottom of that page, and then the next article, putting the bed together for a better look. \

Theres also free plans for the bed on that site, and lots of other great woodworking stuff.


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## brossa

I just built a bed and didn't want any hardware visible from the outside of the posts or rails either. I used floating stub tenons on the rails with routed mortises in the posts to keep the rails from twisting. To lock the rails in place I drilled and tapped 2" deep holes in the posts, into which I screwed 5/16" threaded rod. The rod passes into a hole bored into the end of the side rail. A recess routed in the inside face of the side rail allows a washer and nut to be threaded onto the rod, pulling the rail tight against the post. It's similar to Renner's hardware posted above, but doesn't rely on a short threaded insert in the post - instead the wood of the post is threaded over a longer distance. I strengthened the threads in the wood with some thin CA glue just to be on the safe side. There's no hole visible on the post once the bed is assembled, and no tricky alignment of cross dowel holes.

Headboard post with mortises and one rod threaded into tapped hole:









Inside face of side rail with routed pockets showing holes bored through end of rail


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## LeeBarker

Bouncing off Mike's recommendation, I'll add high marks for Jeff Miller's book. Anyone who is starting in bed building would appreciate his clarion-clear text and clean, self sufficient designs. Great illustrations as well. I'll never part with my copy; I have referred to it often through the years.

It's here, for instance.

Kindly,

Lee


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## pintodeluxe

This is one of the best systems I have seen for invisible bed hardware. The only change I would make is to drill a 5/16" through hole (rather than the 5/8" hole recommended in the instructions). This will allow you to use 5/16" dowel centers to accurately locate the hole for the threaded inserts. 
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/RCS-0534/Bed-Rail-Connector-Set
The real advantage is you don't need to make any special mortises for the hardware, just a 1-3/8" diameter hole.


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## pintodeluxe

McFeely's bed rail connector set worked great for me. Talk about a sturdy joint. A construction blog about bed bolts is here… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/37705


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## Loco

Enema posted the most practical option for your needs.


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## BennyG

+1 for Mr. Lee Barker's suggestion. Fantastic book, well illustrated a must have for beds.

Regards,

Bennyg


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