# Low angel shoulder plane DIY (Div style plane)



## mafe

*Making the body part one.*

*Low angel shoulder plane*
Because it's fun….

*Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.






Here is a video showing it in action.

But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.

Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).

So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).

If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.









This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).

I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.









This is where we are going now.
As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.









Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.









Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.

*IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
br>









I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.

*Enough theory let's get to it!*









Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.









Like this.









Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
(If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).









The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.









Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
And you can see the change line for the wedge.









Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.









Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
You can use wood pins also.









I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.









And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.









With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.









Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.









Now fit a pin in the hole.









And cut off.









Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.









Time for tobacco.









Ohh yes and look at the mail.
Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.









Look how funny.
The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.









Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.









Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.









And cut!
But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.









Here we are.









Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.









And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).









And out it came.
Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.









Put the body apart.









And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.









Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.









I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.









Now it's the top piece tour.









And time to clamp and clean off glue.
Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.









Clamped up.









Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…









So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.









Dipping in glue.









And hole in one…

Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
So it's time to split the blog here.
Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

*Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## Tinnocker

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Oh boy oh boy, I have been wanting to make my own wooden planes for a time now and I missed the one you mention by Div so I am going to follow this blog of yours like a map! (heh heh) Thanks for being such an inspiration Mafe! 
It is so nice to have such a wealth of talented friends connected from so far away with this LumberJocks interface. Still, it would be even nicer to be able to meet and chat face to face, share a cup of coffee and build stuff together.
Thank you for putting up this blog Mafe.


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Yup, definately I'll build a few too. Power tools aren't made for fine tasks.


----------



## docholladay

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice blog. Lot's of detailed information. Most anyone should be able to go about making a plane from this.

Thanks Mad,

Doc


----------



## bko

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Great post! Can't wait to see how it turns out!

Your drawings are amazing!

-Brian


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice blog, Mad. I have try my hand at plane making.


----------



## Broglea

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Love your blogs Mafe. I'll be adding this to my bucket list.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi guys just a litle update with some words that Doc and I shared on the subject (he have allowed me to post the mails):

*Doc wrote:* 
xxx I am curious about making a wooden plane with that shallow of a bed angle. One of the reasons that we don't often see really old planes (wooden) with low bed angles like that is that it leaves a very thin amount of wood supporting the blade (the bed) due to the shallow angle. I am sure that low angled planes were made, but maybe have not survived because of the reason that I just stated. I wonder if this might be on of the reasons that later we see infill planes with steel and iron added and then of course, later, we have the iron bodied planes?

*Mads wrote:* 
Thats interesting thoughts. 
And yes I think it must be one of the reasons, but I think also that it was just not made and thought of, that the other types of planes could handle the problems so why bother… I do not know, just guessing. 
I look forward to try this plane out, I think it will be stron enough, but only time will tell that (I used some relativly hard wood). 
xxx

*Doc wrote:*
I sent my question to the old tools guys and I will keep you posted on the responses that I receive. I also posed the question a different way. It occured to me that all of the low angle (12 degree bed angle) planes that I have ever seen, always present the iron to the work, bevel up. It occurred to me that it might be possible that plane makers may have made planes with bed angles lower than the traditional 45 degrees, possibly as low as 30 degrees, but with a bevel down configuration. This would achieve the typical 30-35 degree cutting angle found in most low angle planes while still allowing for more support for the iron. We shall see what these guys have to say about it. Some of those guys are pretty knowledgable about the old ways of things.

*Mads wrote:*
This I have seen. 
Otherwise they used to make the iron skewed, and then get the higher cutting angle that way.

Just thought it was interesting to share.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Doc, I think I got a bigger problem, and that this is the reason why they are usually made bevel up and not down - how do I get the mouth small enoug when the bevel will be agains the mouth… Here I will get in trouble. I'm sure I will not be able to get that super tight mouth then. So this supports my theory that the wedge hole must be bigger, acually so big that the blade can come in that way. That is the solution, but to late for this one - laugh! I love to learn, life is sweet when we learn the hard way, an have fun as we do it.
I'll make a correction to the blog right away!!!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## patron

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


good point mads

how to get a 't' blade
in and out
of a tight mouth
maybe a sliding front shoe

like some planes have


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


David, you can just have a heigher wedge and come in from the back, I have seen old planes like that, a moveable mouth would be optimal, but I want this plane to be simple so every one can make it.
Will make a drawing later, have to run for my daughter and the fysio after.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very good tutorial blog Mads and a lot of interesting discussion about blade angles, etc. I just wish I had some some for all this stuff right now. I guess I will have to wait for Fall.


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Great tutorial Mafe.

I think I will be building one.


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I was distracted by that fine compass and Japanese knife. I had actually considered making mine bevel-up too but I hadn't the nerve. Maybe now I do. Where are y'all finding the brass pin stock?


----------



## Cher

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi Mads, as usual your blogs are very detailed and easy to follow, I would like make one some time in the future. I will be going to visit Div in a few months time and I will be taking my plane with so that he can show me how to use it.

Thanks for taking the time to photograph and detail the process.


----------



## woodspark

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi Mads, thanks for showing my plane. I must say, they have evolved a little since that one! You might want to consider chamfering the hole the help with ejecting shavings :^)

I share* Doc*'s consern re the small amount of wood supporting the blade. I tried this once but my glue line failed. As* Doc* rightfully points out, having a 30 degree ramp and bevel down will make for a stronger, longer lasting plane whilst giving the same cutting angle. Maybe the epoxy you are using will do a better job. Only one way to find out!!

I also thought of the mouth problem but I'm sure you will sort it out!

Good pictures, and plenty. Took my slow connection a while to open it but I had to see what you are up to! Enjoy your build!


----------



## dbray45

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Mads-Use a thicker blade and bevel down. This will allow for bottom insert of the blade and give you the strength you need. If you put a slight angle to the wedge edge, the chips may come out the side. What do you thinK?


----------



## woodspark

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Tinnocker, if you want more on building shoulder planes, check out this recent blog:
http://lumberjocks.com/woodspark/blog/23414


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi guys,
Here is my conclusion on the low angle version in this PDF 
So it is really possible.
I think the biggest problem is not the bed that seem quite steady, and I promise you that the epoxy will never be the pint of failure.
I think it is fun to try this version even it seems to end up giving me a headache or two.
And since I am not just making solutions here with my blog but also confusion, I have decided to make a drawing with measures so there will be no confusion or mistake if you follow this.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi ho hi ho,
Div my dear brother, I will never make any changes to that plane I treat it like a baby and show it to all that enter my work shop, and many look right past the rows of metal planes on my wall and right at your little planes and say 'what are those beautiful little planes', to me they are priceless even if I make a hundred my self. Your link should have been in the text on top of the page, now it is added there sorry I simply forgot. 
I have now solved the mouth problem and will insert the blade from the back and not the front as I thought, this you can see in the PDF I posted, dam I make life hard for my self by doing things new ways, but aint it just all the fun at the end? ... Laugh.
dbray45, I do not see how I should solve the problem with a thicker blade bevel down, since I have a bed of 12 degree, and the hole idea of me doing it as a low angle is to test it agains a bevel down version. Don't try and stop me I have only just begun - lol big time.

*But to any one else than me who wants to build one before I finish mine, go for a 40-45 degree bed and bevel down, this wil save you the same frustartions as I had.
Later I will blog pictures of the solution so it will be a choice to do the one or the other.*
Cher, you lucky woman! Yes no one will be better to help you in getting after using and sharpening a plane than Div, so you are in good hands, wish I could join the two of you.

Bertha, if you are impatient do as I write just over here. The brass rod you can buy in any model store.
Ian, cool! I'm fighting here.
Mike, yes it could have been fun with you on the team also, and Div as the teacher here. I think LJ should have made his blog into a class. Enjoy the flowers, and kiss your wife, this is not the worst to do eigther.
David, just a big hug for you.
Doc, it was some interesting mails, that made my head think, I love that.
Broglea, all that love, I smile here.
Beginningwoodworker, as soon as your floor stops I think you should.
BKO, me also right now I dont really know how it will look… Thank you, I love to draw.
Thomas, you will be busy!
Tinnocker, yes it would be nice to share a good coffee, and knock some wood. Div's blog is still active, and he don't make mistakes like me! Laugh here.
Thank you all for the comments, I'm so happy to see that Div has made this wave that now goes deep into the roots of LJ and we will soon all be well off with shoulder planes, low angle or not.
And thank you Div for beeing the inspiration that made me go on this, I wish only I could be a better listener…
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## dbray45

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Your solution works-its all good. What I was saying - In looking at your drawing above, if the 12 degree angle was raised to 25 degrees for strength, with a blade that was double thickness, beveled down, the blade could come straight out the bottom. This would give you a 25 degree cutting angle, a 20 degree blade angle for the cutting edge and easy blade removal. The reason for the thicker blade is only to reduce the stress on the wood under the blade. The caveat is that the blade edge would be further forward.

What are your thoughts?


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


David, trust me, I try! Laugh.

Look what I just posted on Div's blog:
Grrrrrrrr,
I work on three different models now, two in real progress, one dumped… My workshop is a mess and I am sure I have wild eyes and look like a mad scientist. Nothing seem to work now!










But I still try, and I still have a wonderful time as I go after new ideas. 
(I might end up throwing the towel and make it bevel down!).
Yes I am a mad man I know, and you are allowed to laugh as long as you do it sweet.

Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I can tell your discombobulated. No pipe in the photo….


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Do you know the song 'I belive I can fly'?
This is how I feel now!










The answer was right under my nose.
I did it!!!
It's making wonderful shaves,
Jubiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
MaFe in space!!!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads












Now dinner!


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hooray! I knew the low angle would be ambitious, but I also knew you'd succeed!


----------



## dbray45

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Darn, now you got me thinking.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


----------



## woodspark

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Wish I could watch the video…impossible with my slow dail up farm connection. Sigh!


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very nice. Sounds just like a plane should sound. I was a bit dissapointed there was no narrative. : ^ )


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Div, it is a video showing it in function, and as Wayne say 'Sounds just like a plane should sound'.
Wayne, thank you!
Big smile,
Mads


----------



## woodspark

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Still wish I coud see it….maybe if I leave the computer to download, go make some coffee, drink it, go have a shower, read a little, make more coffee….


----------



## dbray45

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Mads -
You did this as a bevel up plane? What is the angle of the bevel? I made a plane that I think is too low of an angle because it is too aggressive in the cut.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi David,
I made a 25 degree bevel and a extra 5 micobevel as I remember.
Did you finish your plane?
Mine took a little running, at first it dig in to the wood but it was just until I got the wedge hollowed a little so it made a good preasure on the font of the blade, so it was not due to the angle or blade, but because it was not sitting firmly enough. The key to the lowangle to be working is this.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## dbray45

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I will address this tonight. Mine is a lot larger - and may get smaller. The hole around the blade may be too large, don't know yet for the wedge to apply the pressure as you indicate. I will make a new wedge and see how that works.

I have a 23 degree edge with no micro bevel so the angle is a lot lower. The space or gap between the blade and the plane was too great and gouged the wood. Chips would not break so I had to cut out more material and glue a filler piece to reduce the gap. This helped a lot but this is still not finish quality shavings.

Forgot to mention, did some tests between bevel up and bevel down at the 23 degree blade. Bevel down did not shave the wood where bevel up did.

Many thanks


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


David you are between two chairs now…
With the really low angle you can only attac endgrain with sucess, but this takes that you hold the blade really solid.
So yes the wedge needs to be hollow a bit so it touch down in the front and back first when pushed in place.
Thre mouth on mine is app. 1,5 mm from the tip of the blade to the plane body opening and this works fine even it is quite big (I thought it would be a problem).
Best thoughts,
Look forward to follow.
Mads


----------



## dbray45

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


This is where it gets interesting and the learning begins. Kind of fun how 5 degrees can make this amount of difference.


----------



## dbray45

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


This is a picture of the plane. Made a few adjustments and it does work better but it still is slated for the fire wood pile. The next one will have several changes.










Mads - thank you for your help.
DIv - was looking at your plane and in comparing both yours and Mads, found some things that I will change. We'll see if it all works.

Many thanks.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi David,
I think you made a wonderful little plane there, congratulation you are now a plane maker!
When I see the plane the first I notice is that the wedge is really thin, I think you need a higher wedge to make a more strong hold on the blade.
You can try as a test to make the wedge hole higher and then see if it is enough.
Or if you really want to trash it, then try and put a screw right down the plane so that this will support the blade front, I am planning to make this in a more thought out way on one of my next low angles.
I think your mouth acually looks fine, like as if it was on purpose.
Cool stuff give your self a clap on the shoulder you acually build a shoulder plane!
Best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## dbray45

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks Mads,

The main problem is that as soon as it catches the wood, the blade starts to dig deeper. I think this is mostly due to the angle and the strength of the wood. Increasing the bevel to 35 degrees helped a lot but there is too much flex that you would not have with steel. May be the limitation with the wood, don't know but we will see. I will play before I scrap it.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I had the same problem before I hollowed out the wedge, as soon as the wedge made a good grip on the front of the blade it was making shavings, and no mor digging.
But yes I think it is why the old English planemakers only made the low angle versions in wood and metal as a combo.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## dbray45

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hollowing the wedge did help a lot but the hole for the shavings is probably too big so the pressure is minimal even with making the wedge a bit concave. Increasing the bed angle 5 degrees will add something like 75% more strength to the blade's bed.

What are your thoughts?


----------



## woodspark

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi Dave! My 2 cents for what it is worth: First, welcome to the wonderful world of wooden plane making! Your problem is caused by the fact that the blade does not get enough support near the mouth. Two reasons, the hole is way too big as you concluded and the wedge too thin. I also feel that the piece of wood supporting the blade underneath is too thin and will ultimately flex. Increasing the bed angle will indeed strengthen the plane considerably.
With a 35 degree bevel and what? 10 - 15 degree bed angle you end up with 45 - 50 degrees. Not at all a low angle plane! Might as well build a 45 degree bevel down plane that is much stronger!

Please don't consider your project a failure because it isn't. What a fantastic way too discover the geometry and workings of planes! The next one will be better. My very first plane was a miserable failure and worse, I didn't have LJ's to help me! I still have it after all these years, just to remind me about the start of my journey.
Happy plane building!


----------



## dbray45

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks Div, the blade angle was 23 degrees originally and changed it to 35 to see what would happen. This actually gave me better shavings but the bite of the blade was so little that it sometimes didn't catch the wood. When extended a .001 more ( a light tap on the front), the shavings were .05 thick. With a .125" thick blade, this indicates the plane's bed is flexing not the blade.

The geometry seems to be in a range of 5-10 degrees. When you start extending that range the various grains of the wood starts to make a different set of challenges. The pieces of wood that I test on is poplar, cherry, and maple. The poplar makes a good test wood because it is soft enough to really gouge if the conditions are right.

As an added benefit to this, one of the scrap pieces of the blade was salvaged - by design. I have to make a handle for it when I get my lathe out of the corner but I made a really nice marking knife blade. Starting with a .125" thich piece makes a narrow blade that doesn't flex. When I make the handle, I will post it.

You know, between you and Mads, I am making too many of my own tools. I have been corrupted. Thank you.


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hey Mads, this is an intriguing thought from the Sauer and Steiner blog:










I'm sure the wheels are actively turning in your head. My next homebuilt will incorporate this idea.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Al pls give me a link.
Looking sweet, and yes those guys rock!
Wabadauuu.
Mads


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


http://sauerandsteiner.blogspot.com/2010/11/shaker-bench-restoration-home-stretch.html


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


STOP!
I cant take it.
Please stop!!!
My God.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


And that bench is a bench to die for.
Roubo go home - OMG.
Smile here,
Mads


----------



## Theoforus

mafe said:


> *Making the body part one.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Because it's fun….
> 
> *Before you start reading I want to tell that I finally managed to make it run!*
> It was giving me a headache, but once I found out the problem it was right on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action.
> 
> But I will blog a improved version also in this blog serie.
> 
> Not so long ago I followed a class here on LJ with Stefang where we build a bucket, part of this project was to make a convex hand plane (Krenov style).
> 
> So what have this to do with a low angle shoulder plane that I now build alongside Div's blog
> The fact that they are both based on the same technique, where you cut up a block of wood and glue it back together rather than hollow out (to cut is fast and easy), Krenov style traditionally add a cross pin and a wedge, where Div's shoulder plane skips the cross pin and just makes a wedge that fit the hole and let the shaves out sideways, so when you have made one plane it is no sweat to do the next's (trust me on this).
> 
> If you want to build a traditional and way too cool shoulder plane, you can use Divs blog to make a bevel down 45 degree bed shoulder plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Div shoulder plane, made by Div. (Yes I am really proud to own one).
> 
> I choose to be a naughty boy and make my version of the shoulder plane as a low angle bevel up, where Div make it a medium angel (45 degree) bevel down (look at drawings). The reason for this is that I am so lucky to have received one of Div's wonderful planes as a gift from him, so it would be more interesting for me to try new ways to be able to compare after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we are going now.
> As you can see I made a new design just for my pleasure, I am going to play with the circle here, so the opening will be a half circle and then I will shape the plane also from this center.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I start my blog here, sorry I had not thought I would make a blog.
> I have already chosen the dimensions of my plane, the width after what I need and the rest just to match my wish for size.
> Look here for the basic cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23516
> When I had these dimensions I cut up a block of wood that matched that, and then 'cut of' the sides in a thickness that will make a strong plane. The smaller the plane the thicker the sides need to be compared to the total width. Here app 1/6 of the width for each side.
> So I have now a center piece and two shoulder pieces as you see on the picture.
> All rest in the middle of drawing tools and a sketch of my ideas for the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Div's plane is a bed angel of 45 degrees and bevel down plane iron, the one I will make will be a 12 degree bed and a bevel up plane iron, if you make only one then make the 45 degree bevel down, in this you get a relly cool and well functioning plane, where the 12 degree bevel up is a tricky lady to get dancing and might be never really rhe thing, at least if you make a 12 degree then make it bigger size to provide stability.
> The difference is as you can see on my illustration how we approach 'attack' the wood.
> With the bevel down the angel is fixed once the plane is done (unless you start honing back bevels).
> With the bevel down you can change your bevel angle and in this way change your planes approach.
> Why should you ever want to do that? Because different types of wood can require different angles for a good result. I do it just for the fun of it, and will make the bevel on mine 22 I think that gives me a total of 34.
> 
> *IMPORTANT CORRECTION TO THE BLOG*
> TO HOLD THE BLADE TIGHT ENOUGH YOU NEED TO MAKE A HIGHER WEDGE THEN SHOWN ON THE PHOTOS HERE.
> br>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking of advantage and disadvantage of each version
> The 45 degree version have a more solid bed to place the iron on since it is more solid, and should then make less shatter (the blade wobbling), but then the bed stops at the bevel and this makes the last piece of the iron hang free, so it probably more or less equals it I think.
> What I do think can be improved is that it would be better with a higher wedge, this would give more stability and the wedge can be made pointed towards the opening so it will not make the shavings get stocked.
> 
> *Enough theory let's get to it!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take the top piece of the three and use this to draw the layout on (I use the center piece here since I already did the other).
> Make a point where you want the mouth of the plane to be, I choose a little over center of the sole.
> From this point make a line of 12 degrees back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the iron on top and draw the thickness of it on top of the first line.
> (If you don't have the iron yet just draw the thickness).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wedge I design here are after the Div model and is a long slim one.
> But you should follow the red change and make a higher wedge, this will support the blade better.
> I have no number here but I will say 8-10 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I want to decide app where I want the mouth so I hold up the blade and make a point app at the end of a 22 degree bevel.
> And you can see the change line for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can draw my half circle and find my 'center' of the layout.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some 1,5 mm brass rod for pins to hold it together while it's being made and later for beauty.
> You can use wood pins also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided that the pins also should be placed in the circular system, so I make a second circle app 1 cm offset from the outer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And mark 1 cm from the sides where the circle strikes this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an awl mark the points so the drill will be controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamp the three pieces together and drill a hole in one end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now fit a pin in the hole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do this in the other end also so it will be fixed, and then you can remove the clamps and do the rest since the pins will hold the three parts in place now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for tobacco.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and look at the mail.
> Ironically today I received a vintage brass compass I got of E-bay for a dollar, this must be a sign that my circular design is the way to go now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look how funny.
> The old beautiful brass compass - the newer mass produced ugly version of this that are less steady. Then a new quality compass for drawing (from I was a student making technical drawings) - and a modern made in China version with no charm and also less steady.
> Yes life goes in circles, and in my life I often end back where we call it vintage du to the wonderful quality back then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm back from dreaming!
> Drill a hole somewhere in the area that will be the opening for shavings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to cut out this piece, I'm lucky to have a motorized saw here, but a hand scroll saw will be just as good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And cut!
> But leave some at the area that will be the mouth, so it will be possible to adjust here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time to saw out the area that later shall hold the wedge.
> I use a brass bar that has traveled all the way from US (thank you Maddie and Rand) to hold my saw at 90 degree. You should try and stay focused here since it is going to be the bed of the iron and we want it to be flat and in angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And saw some more (I use here the little inexpensive Zona saw since it has extremely fine teeth and makes absolutely no tear out).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And out it came.
> Keep the piece, then you have the angle for the wedge later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the body apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And find your favorite glue. I have a soft spot for two component epoxy, probably because of all the knifes I have build with this stuff. It is rock hard and will never fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mix the glue and spend the time doing it good.
> I use a 16 hour dry time epoxy here, since I want time to make sure it come together fine. If you are in a hurry you can use a fast version, but don't drink coffee then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I add glue to two pins and position then in each end then add glue to the one surface of the plane core and then place it in place using the pins as guides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's the top piece tour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And time to clamp and clean off glue.
> Since this epoxy gets rock hard, it is a good idea to spend a little time now.
> And remember to clean the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clamped up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ohh yes and two mistakes here!
> The picture is not sharp and I made a hole to close to the bed…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a quick repair (yes I do like to show my mistakes also).
> Making a little wood pin from the same wood as the plane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dipping in glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And hole in one…
> 
> Now the plane body has to dry for 16 hours before the clamps can be removed.
> So it's time to split the blog here.
> Next part will be making the shoulder plane iron (in this version from an 'old' plane blade).
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads





> Doc, I think I got a bigger problem, and that this is the reason why they are usually made bevel up and not down - how do I get the mouth small enoug when the bevel will be agains the mouth… Here I will get in trouble. I m sure I will not be able to get that super tight mouth then. So this supports my theory that the wedge hole must be bigger, acually so big that the blade can come in that way. That is the solution, but to late for this one - laugh! I love to learn, life is sweet when we learn the hard way, an have fun as we do it.
> I ll make a correction to the blog right away!!!
> Best thoughts,
> Mads
> 
> Maybe you could make a brass piece to cover the front of the opening. I have seen that some wooden planes have such.
> 
> - mafe


----------



## mafe

*Making a blade from another plane iron.*

*Low angel shoulder plane*
Making a blade from another plane iron.

*This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*









This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.









Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).









Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
Mark this length on the blade also.









I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
(You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).









Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.









Mark this out on the blade.









Can you see it?
And notice I use a none slip ruler after.









Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.









And also the shoulders of the iron.









Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
(If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.









This is what it should end up like.









Now correct the sides.


__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content









Flatten the back of the iron.









And here we are!









And here where it fits right in.

That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.

Link:
A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430

Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

*Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## patron

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


good advice on the cutting of the metal
that is a world i know little about

always just hacksaw
what i need
for rough stuff

i don't even have a bench vise
(or any vise for that matter)

will have to see about that soon


----------



## Dcase

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I never would have thought of doing this with an old blade. I also have a lot of extra block plane blades so I think I will give this a try. Thanks for posting and sharing


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very smart.


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I'd go with the metal saw instead of the soft dremel discs, the harder ones work far better and last waaay longer, but a good metal saw remains the easiest and cheapest ways to do that (and then you can finish up the edges with the dremel)


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Looks like your making good progress Mads. Are you going to square the non-cutting end of the blade? (Thinking of using a hammer to adjust blade)


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks for this blade making part of your blog Mads. I don't have an extra block plane blade, but I do have a regular sized extra one. I thought I might try one of those diamond cutting disks for this job.


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


11 cutting discs. I hope they are cheap in your area.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## fernandoindia

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Another great tutorial Mads. Keeps enlarging my never ending to do list.


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> __
> Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
> Show Content
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I'm in; cutting my blade tonight (hopefully).


----------



## Cher

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi Mads, I totally agree with you, the water grinder is pure pleasure, it makes the steel bling bling and sharp.

Thanks for sharing such a fun project Mads.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi there,
Yes the iron is a sweat deal, no problems there.
Cher, glad I have a frind in the water. I am a cancer by the stars, perhaps thats why I love that water grinder!
Bertha, go for it!
Fernando, ohhh I know that list too well.
Ian, yes it is the cheap crappy that have no reinforcement inside do not worry, I just have app 400 of these so I'm not buing the more expensive before they are gone.
Mike, yes any Iron will do. And yes a diamond sounds better than all the change of disc.
Wayne, yes I will cut the other end straight also but I want to know where it ends first, since I work by heart and not by drawing on this project (probaly a really bad idea).
Thomas yes but the saw blade need to be hard then.
RG, you give me wonderful names today… Smile.
Dan, money makes the Dremmel spin arround… the Dremmel spin arround… the Dremmel spin arround.
David, yes a benche vice is a wonderful extra hand for so many tasks.
Thank you all for your comments, I'm happy if it will end up beeing the shot that made some blades get recycled.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I want your set up for working metal. It reminds me very much of what I used to use when I was an apprentice jeweler. It's funny that you make gems too, just of a different kind.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Nice blog. That cutter works better than I thought. How long did it take to cut the metal?


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Topa, yes it is sweet. It took half a hour to cut the iron I think, but I bought some new better discs now so next time will be fast. (I'm retired so I have the time).
RG, I always dreamed to learn the skills of Jeweler.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## RGtools

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I am grateful for the time I spent doing that, it taught me how much I like to create things. Many of the skills are the same, (polishing and sharpening are the same damn thing with different goals) I've just switched materials at this point.

Best thoughts to you and yours.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making a blade from another plane iron.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making a blade from another plane iron.
> 
> *This is the second part of the blog, in last part the plane body was made.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where we will end, Div's shoulder plane on top, then mine and finally what this part is about; the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have a handful of block plane irons I got for next to nothing, I will 'kill' one of these.
> Measure the width of your shoulder plane and add a little for later tuning (I added 1mm).
> Draw this on your plane iron (what ever iron you have).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Find the length of the wide part of the blade by measure the deepness of the mouth and the hole for shaves, as shown on the illustration.
> Mark this length on the blade also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Dremmel tool for cutting the blade and hold my finger on the iron to feel when it is so hot it needs to be cooled down. Be especially careful on this part, since this will be the cutting part of the blade.
> (You can probably guess now what the reason for the size on my plane was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tome to make the part of the blade that will be inside the body, so measure the width of the hole for the wedge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mark this out on the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see it?
> And notice I use a none slip ruler after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now mark up these lines, I use a hard point to do this, so it will be easy to trace with the Dremmel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also the shoulders of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut, cut and cut and dip once in a while when too hot.
> I used 11 of the thin cutting discs before I was done
> (If you stop just before you cut through the metal you will use less discs, and then you can break the last part of this is a easy trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what it should end up like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now correct the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flatten the back of the iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here we are!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here where it fits right in.
> 
> That's it for now, I will probably add side bevels to the blade later when I sharpen the blade at the final tuning.
> I do like to shape on that water grinder it is pure pleasure.
> 
> Link:
> A link to my blog on how to make a adjustable shoulder plane iron from a spade drill:
> http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/23430
> 
> Next part will be opening the mouth, and making the wedge.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


;-)


----------



## mafe

*Making the body part two.*

*Low angel shoulder plane*
Making the body part two.

So here we go.









In last blog we left the body to dry.
Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.









Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).









Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.









Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.









Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.









This simple!









Flattening the sole.
And a needle files on the bed.
It almost look like a plane now!









Not bad.









Getting closer!
In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).









Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
Makin a cut for the mouth.









And one more so we have an opening.
It is done with the Zona saw.









Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.









Jaba daba dooo….









And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
(I thought this was not possible.).









Here we are!
As you can see this design has a few back sides.
The mouth can't be super tiny.
The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.









The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.









And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
*IMPORTANT:*
After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.









A match.









A fit.









Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!









Marking the wedge.
Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.









The low angle shoulder plane is made!









The size.









Inspiration.









Sizes.









Here it is doing shaves.









And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…






Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.

And here the little wedge trick:









A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.

Time to say good night here.

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.

*Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi, looks like only one photo is showing to me. : ^ (


----------



## Dez

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Sweet! As usual, excellent work!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Sorry guys it's late press F5 (refresh) if you still do not have the pictures.
Goodnight here.


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks Mads. Works now. Great little plane.


----------



## bigike

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


same here? Mads you have to fix the pics that is a great part of reading your postes. I wanna know where you got your pencil from I like how it looks.


----------



## lilredweldingrod

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I think I'll try the low angle next. Thanks.


----------



## moshel

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


thanks mad!!! it looks very easy when you make it… and thanks for the woodporn video! hardcore shavings, this one!


----------



## SPalm

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


You are my hero. I just love knowing someone who is so inspirational. 
Thanks for the knowledge and the smiles.

Oh, and that is a really cute plane.
Steve


----------



## grittyroots

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


great looking plane. with all your blogs i'm turning into a true tool making addict


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


wow!!!

Now all you have to do is find a way to eject the shaving automatically.

maybe spiral the blade outward? just kiding.


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I guess a Lignum Vitae sole would be the perfect fit for this kind of little plane.


----------



## BigTiny

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi Mads.

One minor point:

Glass is flexible. If you wrap your sandpaper around it, the center is unsupported and can "sag" under the pressure of sanding an item on it, giving you a less than flat surface. If you wrap the tape only around the ends of the glass, the difference is so small as to be ignored.


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Judging from the shavings, you got a very good result on this plane Mads. I was a little skeptical about the large mouth opening, but it seems to work just fine. I can't wait to try making one of these planes as soon as I get some time to do it. Thanks for showing us how.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads












I'll post later a drawing to build from if you are intersted.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## fernandoindia

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


ANother great tutorial Mads. Thank you.

I will need a sabbatical retirement to start making these handsome tools.


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hey Mads, are you going to chamfer the edges of your iron? Seems like it might help clear the escapement (?), plus it'll look cool. I'm debating whether or not to. Should I choose to, it's going to be a tricky operation. I can't jig it up on the wetgrinder and I'm not sure how I'll hold it over a plate. I want it to be perfectly even, because that's what we want, right? If you have any thoughts, I'm anxious to here them.


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Al, Can you build a custom Jig to chamfer the edges?


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


That's what I'm thinking, Wayne. Maybe bolt two strips of metal together as a little "gripper", then mount it to a board that accepts the arm of my wetgrinder? Hmmm.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi guys,
I freehand on the side of watergrinder wheel when I make my bevel edeges (artis in the blood), but I will be happy to see some jigs.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Bricofleur

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi Mads. Yet another great tool, another good demonstration of your skills, another way to prove you're a great pedagogue. Hat's off my friend. I'm blown away again! 

Take a look at this one I made, which I can't post here because it's not made out of wood.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


^that's really clever, Serge! C'mon, it's partially made of wood! I've been considering an upgraded paddle switch. Perhaps I should steal your methods


----------



## bigike

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


saweeeeeeeeeet lookin plane. As always your tools are great.


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Mads, I'm about to tackle my wedge and I'm a bit confused about the surface that faces the iron. If I were the iron, lying on the bed, facing the wedge, would I be looking at a convex or concave surface? It seems that I would want to crown the wedge a bit to focus the clamping pressure down the spine of the iron. Am I correct? I don't have my planemaking book in front of me


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi Bertha,
Yes the wedge needs to be a little 'hollow' concave, in this way it will provide preassure in both ends first and then down the blade, this is so you secure the cutting end of the plane to a maximum.
Do you have a plane making book? Can I see it?
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I do, Mads, and you may. If you PM me an address, I will mail you a copy of this book; it's the least I can do for all the help you've provided us. I thank you for the clarification!










It's by David Finck (foreward by Krenov, can't be bad!)

No shoulder planes in this book, per se, but a decent addressing of wedges. If nothing else, they're fun to admire!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Wauuuuuu, you will have a mail in 30 sec.
Thank you.


----------



## bilbaggins

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Yet another cool tut! Thank you very much!


----------



## DamnYankee

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks Mads. I've been thinking of making my planes.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi guys,
Thank you, yes when we look at it in pieces it is not so complexe at the end, so do it.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Chaplainpilot

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


What is the advantage of making components and assembling them versus making the iron slot with a dedicate mortiser thereby not having to pin and glue it together.

Thanks Merritt


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi Merritt,
These planes are dead easy to make and the walls and slope becomes chrisp with little efford.
Nothing I guess… 
Except it is more easy and really fast, but if you are trained with a chisel I think it is more cool to do it the old way.
Hmmmm
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Belg1960

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Mads, loving rereading the blog again and also Div's. The picture you posted in the responses is that available in a larger plan sized version?


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Great bump! I haven't been to this thread in years. Literally!


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi, 
Belg, yes it is on next page, but here is the link: http://www.felding.net/image/pic/shoulderplanecircle/lowangleoriginal.pdf
Bertha, nice to see you, I don't get around as much as I want these days, life is busy and in the most wonderful way. Yes it was soon long ago, this thread a wonderful time of exploration. Hope you are fine and with a smile.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Belg1960

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thank you Mads, should have just kept reading I guess. ;-)


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Making the body part two.*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Making the body part two.
> 
> So here we go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In last blog we left the body to dry.
> Now time to make one of the sides flat by grinding of the pin ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the band saw, for shaping that body.
> In the back left my future dinner knifes, its Swedish steel and eight different woods for the handles, in this way people can choose, and find a favorite (sorry it has nothing at all to do in this blog).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cutting after the circle that I decided for the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shaping and removing pin ends from other side also. By the sander, be careful not to burn it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need a dead flat surface? Here are how.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This simple!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flattening the sole.
> And a needle files on the bed.
> It almost look like a plane now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting closer!
> In the front another of Div's wonderful planes (I'm spoiled).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hold the plane iron up and find out exactly where to place the planes mouth.
> Makin a cut for the mouth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And one more so we have an opening.
> It is done with the Zona saw.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paring the mouth with a dead sharp chisel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jaba daba dooo….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And look! It slides just in from the mouth.
> (I thought this was not possible.).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here we are!
> As you can see this design has a few back sides.
> The mouth can't be super tiny.
> The last part of the plane iron are not supported due to the fact I need to get the blade in, and the wood dimensions, a bigger plane would be less trouble.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little cut off from the body now comes in action as a guide for the wedge angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And sawing the wedge, now with a Veritas dovetail saw.
> *IMPORTANT:*
> After sawing it, you need to make the part of the wedge turning down against the plane iron a slightly concave curved so it rest on the front by the mouth and the heal by the back of the plane, in this way the iron will be pushed down against the bed and you will avoid that the plane iron dig in or bend of the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A match.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmmmmmm… will that really work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking the wedge.
> Notice I have rounded the end of the plane iron.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low angle shoulder plane is made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is doing shaves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here low angle and 45 degrees together.
> Thank you Div, it has been great fun even I was quite frustrated for an hour this afternoon…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a video showing it in action, it actually works.
> 
> And here the little wedge trick:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A last trick is to 'hollow' the wedge a little, just a little - in this way you will make sure there are a optimal pressure on the front of the wedge.
> 
> Time to say good night here.
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless.
> 
> *Thank you div for playing with me my brother.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


You are welcome. ;-)


----------



## mafe

*Drawings Analys and Documentation...*

*Low angel shoulder plane*
Drawings Analysis and Documentation…

I promised to post a set of drawings for this project, normally I will not do this, but due to the fact I was spending the time drawing it to figure it out I decided to make a few drawings to help others build.
(And no one just do that, it took 6-8 hours of work, and 8 hours of building and thinking, so just thinking of the fact that I should receive 75 dollar from a woodworking magazine and be happy makes me laugh it would be 4,5 dollar a hour…).

*So here it is all for free, right from my heart to anyone who wants to build it:*

------------------------------------

*Front loaded version:*









Here the drawing of the one I build.
You can press here for the PDF file with the drawing ready to print in the scale you want.
My own is made with a simple circular design (the MaFe way), but in the drawing I gave it a classic look since I think this will be what most like.

I made it with no measures, but the 1:1 on the drawing is a fine size for a medium shoulder plane, but if you want a micro like Div and I have build, you need to downscale it to a body length of app. 4 1/2 inches.

------------------------------------

*Back loaded version:*



















Press here for the drawings for the version that can make it possible to make an extremely narrow mouth since the plane is loaded from the back.
I draw this when I thought my first version was not possible at all.

------------------------------------

*The mad professor:*



















Finally press here for the drawings where I tried to figure out what was the problem and what could be done - the analysis.
This was for me the way to try and figure it all out, and I love to be there…

------------------------------------

Since the plane is running now I will probably not blog more on this subject, but we never know, I do have two plane bodies waiting for me.

Thank you to all who followed my ups and downs on this blog..

I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless, and since I even provided the drawings now, it should be a walk in the park, where the swans swim on the water while the sun goes down.

*Thank you div for inspirer me my dear brother in Africa.*

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *Drawings Analys and Documentation...*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Drawings Analysis and Documentation…
> 
> I promised to post a set of drawings for this project, normally I will not do this, but due to the fact I was spending the time drawing it to figure it out I decided to make a few drawings to help others build.
> (And no one just do that, it took 6-8 hours of work, and 8 hours of building and thinking, so just thinking of the fact that I should receive 75 dollar from a woodworking magazine and be happy makes me laugh it would be 4,5 dollar a hour…).
> 
> *So here it is all for free, right from my heart to anyone who wants to build it:*
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Front loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the drawing of the one I build.
> You can press here for the PDF file with the drawing ready to print in the scale you want.
> My own is made with a simple circular design (the MaFe way), but in the drawing I gave it a classic look since I think this will be what most like.
> 
> I made it with no measures, but the 1:1 on the drawing is a fine size for a medium shoulder plane, but if you want a micro like Div and I have build, you need to downscale it to a body length of app. 4 1/2 inches.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Back loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press here for the drawings for the version that can make it possible to make an extremely narrow mouth since the plane is loaded from the back.
> I draw this when I thought my first version was not possible at all.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *The mad professor:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally press here for the drawings where I tried to figure out what was the problem and what could be done - the analysis.
> This was for me the way to try and figure it all out, and I love to be there…
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Since the plane is running now I will probably not blog more on this subject, but we never know, I do have two plane bodies waiting for me.
> 
> Thank you to all who followed my ups and downs on this blog..
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless, and since I even provided the drawings now, it should be a walk in the park, where the swans swim on the water while the sun goes down.
> 
> *Thank you div for inspirer me my dear brother in Africa.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


What wonderful drawings Mads. Thanks for taking the extra time and effort for the community in general. It is greatly appreciated.


----------



## lanwater

mafe said:


> *Drawings Analys and Documentation...*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Drawings Analysis and Documentation…
> 
> I promised to post a set of drawings for this project, normally I will not do this, but due to the fact I was spending the time drawing it to figure it out I decided to make a few drawings to help others build.
> (And no one just do that, it took 6-8 hours of work, and 8 hours of building and thinking, so just thinking of the fact that I should receive 75 dollar from a woodworking magazine and be happy makes me laugh it would be 4,5 dollar a hour…).
> 
> *So here it is all for free, right from my heart to anyone who wants to build it:*
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Front loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the drawing of the one I build.
> You can press here for the PDF file with the drawing ready to print in the scale you want.
> My own is made with a simple circular design (the MaFe way), but in the drawing I gave it a classic look since I think this will be what most like.
> 
> I made it with no measures, but the 1:1 on the drawing is a fine size for a medium shoulder plane, but if you want a micro like Div and I have build, you need to downscale it to a body length of app. 4 1/2 inches.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Back loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press here for the drawings for the version that can make it possible to make an extremely narrow mouth since the plane is loaded from the back.
> I draw this when I thought my first version was not possible at all.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *The mad professor:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally press here for the drawings where I tried to figure out what was the problem and what could be done - the analysis.
> This was for me the way to try and figure it all out, and I love to be there…
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Since the plane is running now I will probably not blog more on this subject, but we never know, I do have two plane bodies waiting for me.
> 
> Thank you to all who followed my ups and downs on this blog..
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless, and since I even provided the drawings now, it should be a walk in the park, where the swans swim on the water while the sun goes down.
> 
> *Thank you div for inspirer me my dear brother in Africa.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks Mads!

This will be very handy.


----------



## grittyroots

mafe said:


> *Drawings Analys and Documentation...*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Drawings Analysis and Documentation…
> 
> I promised to post a set of drawings for this project, normally I will not do this, but due to the fact I was spending the time drawing it to figure it out I decided to make a few drawings to help others build.
> (And no one just do that, it took 6-8 hours of work, and 8 hours of building and thinking, so just thinking of the fact that I should receive 75 dollar from a woodworking magazine and be happy makes me laugh it would be 4,5 dollar a hour…).
> 
> *So here it is all for free, right from my heart to anyone who wants to build it:*
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Front loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the drawing of the one I build.
> You can press here for the PDF file with the drawing ready to print in the scale you want.
> My own is made with a simple circular design (the MaFe way), but in the drawing I gave it a classic look since I think this will be what most like.
> 
> I made it with no measures, but the 1:1 on the drawing is a fine size for a medium shoulder plane, but if you want a micro like Div and I have build, you need to downscale it to a body length of app. 4 1/2 inches.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Back loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press here for the drawings for the version that can make it possible to make an extremely narrow mouth since the plane is loaded from the back.
> I draw this when I thought my first version was not possible at all.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *The mad professor:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally press here for the drawings where I tried to figure out what was the problem and what could be done - the analysis.
> This was for me the way to try and figure it all out, and I love to be there…
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Since the plane is running now I will probably not blog more on this subject, but we never know, I do have two plane bodies waiting for me.
> 
> Thank you to all who followed my ups and downs on this blog..
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless, and since I even provided the drawings now, it should be a walk in the park, where the swans swim on the water while the sun goes down.
> 
> *Thank you div for inspirer me my dear brother in Africa.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks mads, your blogs are what i use to get me fired up when i'm not to motivated to work


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Drawings Analys and Documentation...*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Drawings Analysis and Documentation…
> 
> I promised to post a set of drawings for this project, normally I will not do this, but due to the fact I was spending the time drawing it to figure it out I decided to make a few drawings to help others build.
> (And no one just do that, it took 6-8 hours of work, and 8 hours of building and thinking, so just thinking of the fact that I should receive 75 dollar from a woodworking magazine and be happy makes me laugh it would be 4,5 dollar a hour…).
> 
> *So here it is all for free, right from my heart to anyone who wants to build it:*
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Front loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the drawing of the one I build.
> You can press here for the PDF file with the drawing ready to print in the scale you want.
> My own is made with a simple circular design (the MaFe way), but in the drawing I gave it a classic look since I think this will be what most like.
> 
> I made it with no measures, but the 1:1 on the drawing is a fine size for a medium shoulder plane, but if you want a micro like Div and I have build, you need to downscale it to a body length of app. 4 1/2 inches.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Back loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press here for the drawings for the version that can make it possible to make an extremely narrow mouth since the plane is loaded from the back.
> I draw this when I thought my first version was not possible at all.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *The mad professor:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally press here for the drawings where I tried to figure out what was the problem and what could be done - the analysis.
> This was for me the way to try and figure it all out, and I love to be there…
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Since the plane is running now I will probably not blog more on this subject, but we never know, I do have two plane bodies waiting for me.
> 
> Thank you to all who followed my ups and downs on this blog..
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless, and since I even provided the drawings now, it should be a walk in the park, where the swans swim on the water while the sun goes down.
> 
> *Thank you div for inspirer me my dear brother in Africa.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thank you for doing this, Mads. I know that it takes a tremendous amount of time to put this together and it is very appreciated. Do you want me to call Popular Woodworking? They might even give you $80 as a repeat contributor 

I'm following you! I'm just walking backwards most of the time.


----------



## daltxguy

mafe said:


> *Drawings Analys and Documentation...*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Drawings Analysis and Documentation…
> 
> I promised to post a set of drawings for this project, normally I will not do this, but due to the fact I was spending the time drawing it to figure it out I decided to make a few drawings to help others build.
> (And no one just do that, it took 6-8 hours of work, and 8 hours of building and thinking, so just thinking of the fact that I should receive 75 dollar from a woodworking magazine and be happy makes me laugh it would be 4,5 dollar a hour…).
> 
> *So here it is all for free, right from my heart to anyone who wants to build it:*
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Front loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the drawing of the one I build.
> You can press here for the PDF file with the drawing ready to print in the scale you want.
> My own is made with a simple circular design (the MaFe way), but in the drawing I gave it a classic look since I think this will be what most like.
> 
> I made it with no measures, but the 1:1 on the drawing is a fine size for a medium shoulder plane, but if you want a micro like Div and I have build, you need to downscale it to a body length of app. 4 1/2 inches.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Back loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press here for the drawings for the version that can make it possible to make an extremely narrow mouth since the plane is loaded from the back.
> I draw this when I thought my first version was not possible at all.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *The mad professor:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally press here for the drawings where I tried to figure out what was the problem and what could be done - the analysis.
> This was for me the way to try and figure it all out, and I love to be there…
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Since the plane is running now I will probably not blog more on this subject, but we never know, I do have two plane bodies waiting for me.
> 
> Thank you to all who followed my ups and downs on this blog..
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless, and since I even provided the drawings now, it should be a walk in the park, where the swans swim on the water while the sun goes down.
> 
> *Thank you div for inspirer me my dear brother in Africa.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Very generous of you Mads and excellent drawings.

Perhaps you should blog about how you make these wonderful drawings, someday. I am as enthralled by the drawing as I am by the actual tool. They are a joy to look at and follow, like woodworking in cartoons.
You have a very nice style of documenting!


----------



## Bertha

mafe said:


> *Drawings Analys and Documentation...*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Drawings Analysis and Documentation…
> 
> I promised to post a set of drawings for this project, normally I will not do this, but due to the fact I was spending the time drawing it to figure it out I decided to make a few drawings to help others build.
> (And no one just do that, it took 6-8 hours of work, and 8 hours of building and thinking, so just thinking of the fact that I should receive 75 dollar from a woodworking magazine and be happy makes me laugh it would be 4,5 dollar a hour…).
> 
> *So here it is all for free, right from my heart to anyone who wants to build it:*
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Front loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the drawing of the one I build.
> You can press here for the PDF file with the drawing ready to print in the scale you want.
> My own is made with a simple circular design (the MaFe way), but in the drawing I gave it a classic look since I think this will be what most like.
> 
> I made it with no measures, but the 1:1 on the drawing is a fine size for a medium shoulder plane, but if you want a micro like Div and I have build, you need to downscale it to a body length of app. 4 1/2 inches.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Back loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press here for the drawings for the version that can make it possible to make an extremely narrow mouth since the plane is loaded from the back.
> I draw this when I thought my first version was not possible at all.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *The mad professor:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally press here for the drawings where I tried to figure out what was the problem and what could be done - the analysis.
> This was for me the way to try and figure it all out, and I love to be there…
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Since the plane is running now I will probably not blog more on this subject, but we never know, I do have two plane bodies waiting for me.
> 
> Thank you to all who followed my ups and downs on this blog..
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless, and since I even provided the drawings now, it should be a walk in the park, where the swans swim on the water while the sun goes down.
> 
> *Thank you div for inspirer me my dear brother in Africa.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Mads, I'm hanging close to these plans! Yours right next to mine!


----------



## HallTree

mafe said:


> *Drawings Analys and Documentation...*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Drawings Analysis and Documentation…
> 
> I promised to post a set of drawings for this project, normally I will not do this, but due to the fact I was spending the time drawing it to figure it out I decided to make a few drawings to help others build.
> (And no one just do that, it took 6-8 hours of work, and 8 hours of building and thinking, so just thinking of the fact that I should receive 75 dollar from a woodworking magazine and be happy makes me laugh it would be 4,5 dollar a hour…).
> 
> *So here it is all for free, right from my heart to anyone who wants to build it:*
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Front loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the drawing of the one I build.
> You can press here for the PDF file with the drawing ready to print in the scale you want.
> My own is made with a simple circular design (the MaFe way), but in the drawing I gave it a classic look since I think this will be what most like.
> 
> I made it with no measures, but the 1:1 on the drawing is a fine size for a medium shoulder plane, but if you want a micro like Div and I have build, you need to downscale it to a body length of app. 4 1/2 inches.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Back loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press here for the drawings for the version that can make it possible to make an extremely narrow mouth since the plane is loaded from the back.
> I draw this when I thought my first version was not possible at all.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *The mad professor:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally press here for the drawings where I tried to figure out what was the problem and what could be done - the analysis.
> This was for me the way to try and figure it all out, and I love to be there…
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Since the plane is running now I will probably not blog more on this subject, but we never know, I do have two plane bodies waiting for me.
> 
> Thank you to all who followed my ups and downs on this blog..
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless, and since I even provided the drawings now, it should be a walk in the park, where the swans swim on the water while the sun goes down.
> 
> *Thank you div for inspirer me my dear brother in Africa.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Not everyone will agree, but I find that drawing up the plans for a project is just about as much enjoyment as making the project.


----------



## jiri

mafe said:


> *Drawings Analys and Documentation...*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Drawings Analysis and Documentation…
> 
> I promised to post a set of drawings for this project, normally I will not do this, but due to the fact I was spending the time drawing it to figure it out I decided to make a few drawings to help others build.
> (And no one just do that, it took 6-8 hours of work, and 8 hours of building and thinking, so just thinking of the fact that I should receive 75 dollar from a woodworking magazine and be happy makes me laugh it would be 4,5 dollar a hour…).
> 
> *So here it is all for free, right from my heart to anyone who wants to build it:*
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Front loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the drawing of the one I build.
> You can press here for the PDF file with the drawing ready to print in the scale you want.
> My own is made with a simple circular design (the MaFe way), but in the drawing I gave it a classic look since I think this will be what most like.
> 
> I made it with no measures, but the 1:1 on the drawing is a fine size for a medium shoulder plane, but if you want a micro like Div and I have build, you need to downscale it to a body length of app. 4 1/2 inches.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Back loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press here for the drawings for the version that can make it possible to make an extremely narrow mouth since the plane is loaded from the back.
> I draw this when I thought my first version was not possible at all.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *The mad professor:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally press here for the drawings where I tried to figure out what was the problem and what could be done - the analysis.
> This was for me the way to try and figure it all out, and I love to be there…
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Since the plane is running now I will probably not blog more on this subject, but we never know, I do have two plane bodies waiting for me.
> 
> Thank you to all who followed my ups and downs on this blog..
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless, and since I even provided the drawings now, it should be a walk in the park, where the swans swim on the water while the sun goes down.
> 
> *Thank you div for inspirer me my dear brother in Africa.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Beautiful plane and nice drawing. Congrats and thanks for sharing.


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *Drawings Analys and Documentation...*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Drawings Analysis and Documentation…
> 
> I promised to post a set of drawings for this project, normally I will not do this, but due to the fact I was spending the time drawing it to figure it out I decided to make a few drawings to help others build.
> (And no one just do that, it took 6-8 hours of work, and 8 hours of building and thinking, so just thinking of the fact that I should receive 75 dollar from a woodworking magazine and be happy makes me laugh it would be 4,5 dollar a hour…).
> 
> *So here it is all for free, right from my heart to anyone who wants to build it:*
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Front loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the drawing of the one I build.
> You can press here for the PDF file with the drawing ready to print in the scale you want.
> My own is made with a simple circular design (the MaFe way), but in the drawing I gave it a classic look since I think this will be what most like.
> 
> I made it with no measures, but the 1:1 on the drawing is a fine size for a medium shoulder plane, but if you want a micro like Div and I have build, you need to downscale it to a body length of app. 4 1/2 inches.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Back loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press here for the drawings for the version that can make it possible to make an extremely narrow mouth since the plane is loaded from the back.
> I draw this when I thought my first version was not possible at all.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *The mad professor:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally press here for the drawings where I tried to figure out what was the problem and what could be done - the analysis.
> This was for me the way to try and figure it all out, and I love to be there…
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Since the plane is running now I will probably not blog more on this subject, but we never know, I do have two plane bodies waiting for me.
> 
> Thank you to all who followed my ups and downs on this blog..
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless, and since I even provided the drawings now, it should be a walk in the park, where the swans swim on the water while the sun goes down.
> 
> *Thank you div for inspirer me my dear brother in Africa.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thank you for sharing all of this work with us Mads. It is astounding that we can get so much information, drawings and thoughts at no cost and just by clicking a few buttons. Generosity is not always the first word that comes to mind in dealings with our fellow man, but it certainly is where you are concerned, and the same goes for so many of our fellow Lumberjocks.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *Drawings Analys and Documentation...*
> 
> *Low angel shoulder plane*
> Drawings Analysis and Documentation…
> 
> I promised to post a set of drawings for this project, normally I will not do this, but due to the fact I was spending the time drawing it to figure it out I decided to make a few drawings to help others build.
> (And no one just do that, it took 6-8 hours of work, and 8 hours of building and thinking, so just thinking of the fact that I should receive 75 dollar from a woodworking magazine and be happy makes me laugh it would be 4,5 dollar a hour…).
> 
> *So here it is all for free, right from my heart to anyone who wants to build it:*
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Front loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here the drawing of the one I build.
> You can press here for the PDF file with the drawing ready to print in the scale you want.
> My own is made with a simple circular design (the MaFe way), but in the drawing I gave it a classic look since I think this will be what most like.
> 
> I made it with no measures, but the 1:1 on the drawing is a fine size for a medium shoulder plane, but if you want a micro like Div and I have build, you need to downscale it to a body length of app. 4 1/2 inches.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *Back loaded version:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Press here for the drawings for the version that can make it possible to make an extremely narrow mouth since the plane is loaded from the back.
> I draw this when I thought my first version was not possible at all.
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> *The mad professor:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally press here for the drawings where I tried to figure out what was the problem and what could be done - the analysis.
> This was for me the way to try and figure it all out, and I love to be there…
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Since the plane is running now I will probably not blog more on this subject, but we never know, I do have two plane bodies waiting for me.
> 
> Thank you to all who followed my ups and downs on this blog..
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to go for a low angel shoulder plane, or any plane at all, the satisfaction by making your own plane is priceless, and since I even provided the drawings now, it should be a walk in the park, where the swans swim on the water while the sun goes down.
> 
> *Thank you div for inspirer me my dear brother in Africa.*
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi LJ's,
I am almost ashamed, it was not the thought that I wanted thanks, I was just remembering my little story with a big woodworking magazine - laugh. So it was acually just to bring smiles.
Mike, as I said before I love to share, and I am a big beliver in that those who share learn more, and will become better and better. Those who don't will not recieve eighter and stay ignorant. Most master crafts men are never afraid to share, they even enjoy and never feel a thread in this, it takes practice and skills to become ever a master of anything. 
Jiri, thank you!
Hall Tree, I agree it is a big part of the fun, and usually if you have drawn a project you know every cut by heart when you reach the saw.
Bertha, wonderful, it looks as if you make the back loaded version. This is not needed if you run bevel down, but it will be really cool and you will get a good strong wedge so not a bad idea still. And I pass on calling any magazine at this moment, perhaps if one of them offeres me a freelance job one day…
August, I have not made plans for the router plane, it was froma sketch and my heart.
daltxguy, the drawings is made in a program called Illustrator, and I used it for more than 20 years, so…
grittyroots, mafe the kickstarter…
Ian, I smile again.
Wayne, now I smile even more! ANd I love to make those drawing, but due to my neck I cant sit too long by the computer so it happens really rare these days.

And then I will like to thank back all you LJ's that share with me, few years back I knew next to nothing, but due to the fact others shared here, and that I could see what was possible, I learned that it is all a matter of will and a little practice - ohhh yes and a sharp iron!
Thank you,
Mads


----------



## mafe

*The basic cuts.*

*The basic cuts*
This should have been first…

I know this was how the blog should have started but I had not planned to take photos when I started so this is why - but since I decided to make some more planes I took pictures after.

*So here it is 'The basic cuts'.*










As so often recycle is the basis - here a piece of Ash wood that comes from the cut out for a kitchen sink.
Its big wonderful staves that I simply cut out again by cutting in the glue line, and in this way get wood for plenty of tool handles and yes even hand planes.









Back in line.









This is where they are glued together in the length, it's really strong, but for this project I stay away from these.









A block of wood, all free.









The iron on top.









Marking for the sizes.
The side - tang - side.
Remember to add the thickness of the saw blade, and that the tang part needs to be a little wider so you can adjust.









And marking up with a gauge to control the saw cut after.









Saw!









Ok I'm lazy!









Side - tang - side.
That is all to it!









Now we are ready to go to part one of the blog….

I hope this blog can inspire others to build some of these planes.

*Best thoughts,*
Mads


----------



## WayneC

mafe said:


> *The basic cuts.*
> 
> *The basic cuts*
> This should have been first…
> 
> I know this was how the blog should have started but I had not planned to take photos when I started so this is why - but since I decided to make some more planes I took pictures after.
> 
> *So here it is 'The basic cuts'.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As so often recycle is the basis - here a piece of Ash wood that comes from the cut out for a kitchen sink.
> Its big wonderful staves that I simply cut out again by cutting in the glue line, and in this way get wood for plenty of tool handles and yes even hand planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where they are glued together in the length, it's really strong, but for this project I stay away from these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood, all free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the sizes.
> The side - tang - side.
> Remember to add the thickness of the saw blade, and that the tang part needs to be a little wider so you can adjust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up with a gauge to control the saw cut after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm lazy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side - tang - side.
> That is all to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are ready to go to part one of the blog….
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to build some of these planes.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


I love the way you recycle wood. I hope more people are inspired to do this.


----------



## patron

mafe said:


> *The basic cuts.*
> 
> *The basic cuts*
> This should have been first…
> 
> I know this was how the blog should have started but I had not planned to take photos when I started so this is why - but since I decided to make some more planes I took pictures after.
> 
> *So here it is 'The basic cuts'.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As so often recycle is the basis - here a piece of Ash wood that comes from the cut out for a kitchen sink.
> Its big wonderful staves that I simply cut out again by cutting in the glue line, and in this way get wood for plenty of tool handles and yes even hand planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where they are glued together in the length, it's really strong, but for this project I stay away from these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood, all free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the sizes.
> The side - tang - side.
> Remember to add the thickness of the saw blade, and that the tang part needs to be a little wider so you can adjust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up with a gauge to control the saw cut after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm lazy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side - tang - side.
> That is all to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are ready to go to part one of the blog….
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to build some of these planes.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


we take a seat where 
one is available

thanks 
your work 
and help is appreciated

i will keep watching








and wishing you and your ladies
the best


----------



## Sodabowski

mafe said:


> *The basic cuts.*
> 
> *The basic cuts*
> This should have been first…
> 
> I know this was how the blog should have started but I had not planned to take photos when I started so this is why - but since I decided to make some more planes I took pictures after.
> 
> *So here it is 'The basic cuts'.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As so often recycle is the basis - here a piece of Ash wood that comes from the cut out for a kitchen sink.
> Its big wonderful staves that I simply cut out again by cutting in the glue line, and in this way get wood for plenty of tool handles and yes even hand planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where they are glued together in the length, it's really strong, but for this project I stay away from these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood, all free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the sizes.
> The side - tang - side.
> Remember to add the thickness of the saw blade, and that the tang part needs to be a little wider so you can adjust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up with a gauge to control the saw cut after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm lazy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side - tang - side.
> That is all to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are ready to go to part one of the blog….
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to build some of these planes.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Recycle, recycle, and recycle. Okay, when are you going to build a plane from pallet wood?  If you don't do it quickly, I will be first!


----------



## Jim Jakosh

mafe said:


> *The basic cuts.*
> 
> *The basic cuts*
> This should have been first…
> 
> I know this was how the blog should have started but I had not planned to take photos when I started so this is why - but since I decided to make some more planes I took pictures after.
> 
> *So here it is 'The basic cuts'.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As so often recycle is the basis - here a piece of Ash wood that comes from the cut out for a kitchen sink.
> Its big wonderful staves that I simply cut out again by cutting in the glue line, and in this way get wood for plenty of tool handles and yes even hand planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where they are glued together in the length, it's really strong, but for this project I stay away from these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood, all free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the sizes.
> The side - tang - side.
> Remember to add the thickness of the saw blade, and that the tang part needs to be a little wider so you can adjust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up with a gauge to control the saw cut after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm lazy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side - tang - side.
> That is all to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are ready to go to part one of the blog….
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to build some of these planes.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Mads, you are a true rhykenologist, but you don't just collect the ones others have made- you also make them. What is one called that makes planes??

Nice job showing the process!


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

mafe said:


> *The basic cuts.*
> 
> *The basic cuts*
> This should have been first…
> 
> I know this was how the blog should have started but I had not planned to take photos when I started so this is why - but since I decided to make some more planes I took pictures after.
> 
> *So here it is 'The basic cuts'.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As so often recycle is the basis - here a piece of Ash wood that comes from the cut out for a kitchen sink.
> Its big wonderful staves that I simply cut out again by cutting in the glue line, and in this way get wood for plenty of tool handles and yes even hand planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where they are glued together in the length, it's really strong, but for this project I stay away from these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood, all free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the sizes.
> The side - tang - side.
> Remember to add the thickness of the saw blade, and that the tang part needs to be a little wider so you can adjust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up with a gauge to control the saw cut after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm lazy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side - tang - side.
> That is all to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are ready to go to part one of the blog….
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to build some of these planes.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Mad, keep em coming.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *The basic cuts.*
> 
> *The basic cuts*
> This should have been first…
> 
> I know this was how the blog should have started but I had not planned to take photos when I started so this is why - but since I decided to make some more planes I took pictures after.
> 
> *So here it is 'The basic cuts'.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As so often recycle is the basis - here a piece of Ash wood that comes from the cut out for a kitchen sink.
> Its big wonderful staves that I simply cut out again by cutting in the glue line, and in this way get wood for plenty of tool handles and yes even hand planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where they are glued together in the length, it's really strong, but for this project I stay away from these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood, all free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the sizes.
> The side - tang - side.
> Remember to add the thickness of the saw blade, and that the tang part needs to be a little wider so you can adjust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up with a gauge to control the saw cut after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm lazy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side - tang - side.
> That is all to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are ready to go to part one of the blog….
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to build some of these planes.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Hi ho,
Jim,
I don't know what to call me; 
MaFeOlogist perhaps.
How do we make one?
A mix of early pension, painkillers, love, passion, bad humor, some really nice people around that never stops to give support, a strong contact with the inner cave man that still did not get concurred so tool making is like blood in the veins, then put this guy a century after his time and let him believe the wheel was not really invented!
Something like this makes it I guess.
CJ, yes I am Mad, and I love it!
Thomas, be careful what you wish for!
David, what can I say now? I love you man! May every god on this planet protect you.
Wayne, Thank you my friend.
Best thoughts guys life is so sweet,
Mads


----------



## stefang

mafe said:


> *The basic cuts.*
> 
> *The basic cuts*
> This should have been first…
> 
> I know this was how the blog should have started but I had not planned to take photos when I started so this is why - but since I decided to make some more planes I took pictures after.
> 
> *So here it is 'The basic cuts'.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As so often recycle is the basis - here a piece of Ash wood that comes from the cut out for a kitchen sink.
> Its big wonderful staves that I simply cut out again by cutting in the glue line, and in this way get wood for plenty of tool handles and yes even hand planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where they are glued together in the length, it's really strong, but for this project I stay away from these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood, all free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the sizes.
> The side - tang - side.
> Remember to add the thickness of the saw blade, and that the tang part needs to be a little wider so you can adjust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up with a gauge to control the saw cut after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm lazy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side - tang - side.
> That is all to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are ready to go to part one of the blog….
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to build some of these planes.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Thanks Mads. If I ever get back into the shop again I will make one of these handy planes.


----------



## mafe

mafe said:


> *The basic cuts.*
> 
> *The basic cuts*
> This should have been first…
> 
> I know this was how the blog should have started but I had not planned to take photos when I started so this is why - but since I decided to make some more planes I took pictures after.
> 
> *So here it is 'The basic cuts'.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As so often recycle is the basis - here a piece of Ash wood that comes from the cut out for a kitchen sink.
> Its big wonderful staves that I simply cut out again by cutting in the glue line, and in this way get wood for plenty of tool handles and yes even hand planes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back in line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where they are glued together in the length, it's really strong, but for this project I stay away from these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A block of wood, all free.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The iron on top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marking for the sizes.
> The side - tang - side.
> Remember to add the thickness of the saw blade, and that the tang part needs to be a little wider so you can adjust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And marking up with a gauge to control the saw cut after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saw!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I'm lazy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side - tang - side.
> That is all to it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we are ready to go to part one of the blog….
> 
> I hope this blog can inspire others to build some of these planes.
> 
> *Best thoughts,*
> Mads


Laugh Mike.


----------

