# Hot Rodding a Harbor Freight DC



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*If you build it, dust will come.*

Here's my big idea for converting a HF to a 2-stage DC. I sold my Jet and bought the HF for $139. I got the vortex (?) lid from Woodcraft and am using a regular plastic trash can. I didn't take the time, yet, to draw in the intake/outtake hoses, and I don't know how to draw the plastic bag, but you can get an idea of the concept. I must confess, however, I already built one of these, but it turned out to be too small. It was too short, too narrow, and not deep enough, other than that it was pretty good. I will add pictures in the next entries.


----------



## nobuckle (Nov 3, 2010)

newTim said:


> *If you build it, dust will come.*
> 
> Here's my big idea for converting a HF to a 2-stage DC. I sold my Jet and bought the HF for $139. I got the vortex (?) lid from Woodcraft and am using a regular plastic trash can. I didn't take the time, yet, to draw in the intake/outtake hoses, and I don't know how to draw the plastic bag, but you can get an idea of the concept. I must confess, however, I already built one of these, but it turned out to be too small. It was too short, too narrow, and not deep enough, other than that it was pretty good. I will add pictures in the next entries.


Tim, that looks really good. If you are wanting to draw a clear plastic bag in SU these steps may help:

1. Use the circle tool to create a circle to your desired diameter.
2. Use the Push/Pull tool to create a cylinder to your desired height.
3. Use the Select tool to select the created cylinder.
4. Right click one time and turn the cylinder into a group or component.
5. Use the Bucket tool and choose the Translucent option from the list of choices.
6. Choose the TranslucentGlassTinted and apply this to your cylinder.
7. Select the Edit tab of the Materials options. Here you should see a color wheel that has a little box in it. Use your mouse to drag that box into an area of the color wheel that is more white in color. You should see the imediate effect in your model.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions. I'll help as much as I can.


----------



## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

newTim said:


> *If you build it, dust will come.*
> 
> Here's my big idea for converting a HF to a 2-stage DC. I sold my Jet and bought the HF for $139. I got the vortex (?) lid from Woodcraft and am using a regular plastic trash can. I didn't take the time, yet, to draw in the intake/outtake hoses, and I don't know how to draw the plastic bag, but you can get an idea of the concept. I must confess, however, I already built one of these, but it turned out to be too small. It was too short, too narrow, and not deep enough, other than that it was pretty good. I will add pictures in the next entries.


Did you already build it? If not you should really consider making your own Thien Cyclone top for the barrell instead of the woodcraft lid. While the lid does well, it really lets a lot of dust through, It is a poor design. the intake and outlet openings are too close to each other.

Another thing to consider is a better filter for the collector. The one on it is not big enough and it restricts aurflow, therefore decreasing suction in the system. You could either buy a canister filter, or for a cheaper option you could order a second HF filter bag and use it in place of the plastic bag, especially if your cyclone is catching almost all the dust.

Plus, don't forget to use as little flex hose as possible in the system! Run PVC dusct throughout the shop to each machine with blast gates, and then just a foot or two of hose to make the connections! All that hose in your photo is KILLING your airflow!

Just a couple of modifications to your design that would REALLY make it more efficient…


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *If you build it, dust will come.*
> 
> Here's my big idea for converting a HF to a 2-stage DC. I sold my Jet and bought the HF for $139. I got the vortex (?) lid from Woodcraft and am using a regular plastic trash can. I didn't take the time, yet, to draw in the intake/outtake hoses, and I don't know how to draw the plastic bag, but you can get an idea of the concept. I must confess, however, I already built one of these, but it turned out to be too small. It was too short, too narrow, and not deep enough, other than that it was pretty good. I will add pictures in the next entries.


Two great responses. Thanks.

Nobuckle… I had forgotten to use the translucent material in Sketchup. I'm also going to try to extrude the cylindar so it has a wedge-shaped bottom. We'll see.

Stumpt… re the canister… the good folks at Wynn Environmental won't be too happy to hear that their filter is undersized. (Picture Below) Re the flex hose. You are correct and your comments are appreciated. The second picture doesn't show the half of it. I have a long run of flex hose running up the wall and across the ceiling and back down to a central stack. This was intended to test the run. And with all that length of flex hose and all the hoses connected to the trashcan, the system worked great. Imagine what it will do when I use short lengths of hose and long lengths of 5" duct. Re the Wood craft lid and the Thein… you are correct. The Woodcraft lid is cheap, but it is also quick. The Thein looks interesting and I plan to add one down the road. Re whether I already built it? Yes I did. However, like many things I do, I don't really understand all the issues until I try out a physical model. My process was bass-akwards in that I designed the concept on paper and tried to think of all the things it needed. I then proceeded to build a cabinet that was too small in every dimension. I then took a lot of notes and measurements and such and sat down with Sketchup. I will build the new one this weekend.

Not an ideal process, then again, I'm not always good with process.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

newTim said:


> *If you build it, dust will come.*
> 
> Here's my big idea for converting a HF to a 2-stage DC. I sold my Jet and bought the HF for $139. I got the vortex (?) lid from Woodcraft and am using a regular plastic trash can. I didn't take the time, yet, to draw in the intake/outtake hoses, and I don't know how to draw the plastic bag, but you can get an idea of the concept. I must confess, however, I already built one of these, but it turned out to be too small. It was too short, too narrow, and not deep enough, other than that it was pretty good. I will add pictures in the next entries.


I just got the 2HP HF DC, and plan to do a similar modification. Posts and pictures of your progress (and finished product) would be greatly appreciated. I'm trying to fiqure out the quickest, easiest (and did I say cheapest) way to accomplish the "upgrade". I'll be watching this thread intently!!!

Thanks for taking the time and effort to post this.


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *If you build it, dust will come.*
> 
> Here's my big idea for converting a HF to a 2-stage DC. I sold my Jet and bought the HF for $139. I got the vortex (?) lid from Woodcraft and am using a regular plastic trash can. I didn't take the time, yet, to draw in the intake/outtake hoses, and I don't know how to draw the plastic bag, but you can get an idea of the concept. I must confess, however, I already built one of these, but it turned out to be too small. It was too short, too narrow, and not deep enough, other than that it was pretty good. I will add pictures in the next entries.


DIYaholic… I'll be adding more chapters shortly. Nobuckle… here's a shot at adding the clear bag.


----------



## IrreverentJack (Aug 13, 2010)

newTim said:


> *If you build it, dust will come.*
> 
> Here's my big idea for converting a HF to a 2-stage DC. I sold my Jet and bought the HF for $139. I got the vortex (?) lid from Woodcraft and am using a regular plastic trash can. I didn't take the time, yet, to draw in the intake/outtake hoses, and I don't know how to draw the plastic bag, but you can get an idea of the concept. I must confess, however, I already built one of these, but it turned out to be too small. It was too short, too narrow, and not deep enough, other than that it was pretty good. I will add pictures in the next entries.


Great post Tim, thanks. I really appreciate all the SketchUp effort. Any reason the the blower/impeller couldn't be mounted vertically/plumb so the 90 at the inlet can be eliminated? -Jack


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *If you build it, dust will come.*
> 
> Here's my big idea for converting a HF to a 2-stage DC. I sold my Jet and bought the HF for $139. I got the vortex (?) lid from Woodcraft and am using a regular plastic trash can. I didn't take the time, yet, to draw in the intake/outtake hoses, and I don't know how to draw the plastic bag, but you can get an idea of the concept. I must confess, however, I already built one of these, but it turned out to be too small. It was too short, too narrow, and not deep enough, other than that it was pretty good. I will add pictures in the next entries.


Jack… there are a number of posts in the Review section on the HF DC. I don't have the link to insert here, but I'm sure you can find them. In any event, in a couple of them people have mounted the motor horizontally and this spurred some comment on vertical v. horizontal motors. One poster said he knew of many people who are using the motor horizontally and have had no problem. Others, some identifying themselves as experts, note that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. Many people asked how they can tell if a motor can be run in either position. The experts seem to say to check the motor. Really? To which the responders ask how can they check the motor. The experts seem to be stumped. Nor do they offer any information about the consequences, like is it a fire or shock hazard, or if they just seize up or quit running, or if it significantly shortens uselife life, etc.

Bottom line is I'm still trying to research the issue. Placing the motor horizontally is the way to go because you can get a direct line from the trash can to the fan housing. And if you build your own Thein you can center a 5" duct in the top of the trashcan, therefore also centering the motor. At this point I'm leaning toward that opotion. Since I already built a cabinet (I had planned to build another) I'm thinking about trying it in the horizontal position. I'm going to start by flipping the motor component in my Skethup model. One small problem is the lid I'm using doesn't have a middle hole so the duct from the motor/fan to the trashcan lid will have to be slightly askew. At least if and until I build a Thein.

Please let me know if you run across any information on this.


----------



## JamesVavra (Apr 27, 2009)

newTim said:


> *If you build it, dust will come.*
> 
> Here's my big idea for converting a HF to a 2-stage DC. I sold my Jet and bought the HF for $139. I got the vortex (?) lid from Woodcraft and am using a regular plastic trash can. I didn't take the time, yet, to draw in the intake/outtake hoses, and I don't know how to draw the plastic bag, but you can get an idea of the concept. I must confess, however, I already built one of these, but it turned out to be too small. It was too short, too narrow, and not deep enough, other than that it was pretty good. I will add pictures in the next entries.


Regarding vertical vs. horizontal motors: They all show which orientation they are meant to be run. It's coded with a letter after the rated voltage. All of mine are vertical motors as indicated by the plates that show 110V or 220V.

Trust me, I'm an expert!

James


----------



## Sarit (Oct 21, 2009)

newTim said:


> *If you build it, dust will come.*
> 
> Here's my big idea for converting a HF to a 2-stage DC. I sold my Jet and bought the HF for $139. I got the vortex (?) lid from Woodcraft and am using a regular plastic trash can. I didn't take the time, yet, to draw in the intake/outtake hoses, and I don't know how to draw the plastic bag, but you can get an idea of the concept. I must confess, however, I already built one of these, but it turned out to be too small. It was too short, too narrow, and not deep enough, other than that it was pretty good. I will add pictures in the next entries.


In regards to horizontal vs vertical, I believe its not the motor but how the impeller is connected to the shaft. If the impeller arbor is designed as a compression fitting rather than using the pressure of the set screw to dig into the shaft, then it can be mounted vertically. This type of fitting is called a tapered bushing. You can find more info about it here.
Have people run non-compression arbored impellers their entire lives vertically w/o incident? Certainly. Should you? I guess it depends on how well the impeller housing can withstand and contain an impeller strike and whether the impeller will self destruct into shrapnel or just get dented/banged up.


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Verticality Controversy Rages On*

The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.

So I've pretty much decided to go for it and set up my 2-stage in the horizontal position. This alignment has some clear advantages the most obvious being the ability to line up the center of the cyclone with the blower intake without any angles or extensive runs of hose. However, since my Woodcraft cyclone lid does not have a center hole it looks like I'll go ahead and build a Thien Separator Lid. Following are some pictures from these links and my Sketchup with the horizontal motor. In the meantime, I'd be real interested in hearing from some experts on on this subject.

CovenantCreations









MichaelJ









Phil Thien









Updated Sketchup


----------



## Steve2 (Aug 16, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...


IMHO, the in and out ports should be on the same plane on the lid, at 3 o'clock and at 9 o'clock, so to speak and both must be pointed in the same direction (clockwise); not one in center pointed downward in the drum while the other is at radius in direction of flow.

A shop vac does a minimal or poor job on such a lid presumably because of relatively low CFM in a 2" hose. Just use it directly connected to a low volume producer machine.


----------



## ptweedy (Feb 9, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...


I am confused by your talk about vertical and horizontal alignment of motors on dust collectors. every diagram and picture shows the motor in the vertical position. Did you mean the blower in the horizontal ? phil


----------



## ClayandNancy (Feb 22, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...


I too have asked this question about motors because I would like to build a cyclone with either the HF collector or a 2 or 3hp Grizzly motor, *ptweedy* I believe he's using the HF motor which comes as a horizontal motor and he wants to mount it vertically. Sorry *newTim* if I'm stepping on your toes.


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...


Steve… I'm not an engineer and Phil Thien and others have done a lot of research, but I think the idea is the dust (inflow) from the shop is circulated around the top of the trashcan which forms a cyclone. The air winds around to the bottom where the dust is deposited before traveling back up to the top through the center and on into the blower/dustbag/filter. I've seen various arrangements like the one you suggested with two ports set in opposite directions, again to promote the cylconic effect. I don't know which is best, but the center hole makes it easy to line up with the blower (induction?) inlet when set horizontally.

ptweedy… here is a picture of the factory setup for the DC. I guess you could say the motor is horizontal while the fan housing is vertical. The question is whether it is okay to flip this unit 90 degrees on its axis so the motor sticks straight up (ie vertically) and the fan rotates horizonatally (ie parallel to the bottom or floor).


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...


newTim,
I'm about to do a similar modification to my 2HP HF DC. Do you have the model # for the cartridge filter? Is it a Wynn, and what are it's spec's? Could someone post the link for it? I'm not sure what cartidge will work and don't want to get one that doesn't fit.

Thanks, in advance for the info.

BTW: The addition of the plastic bag (in the SketchUp model) looks good, well done.


----------



## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...


I've been running my HFDC in this configuration for over a year with no problems:



I lost a little bit of airflow with the separator lid, but it's easily a worthwhile endeavor. If I had it to do over again (and I might rebuild it soon), I would make a side inlet for the lid and raise the garbage can a little bit to make emptying it a little easier.

Good luck!


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...


DIY… yes it is a Wynn. I think it is the 35A, but the Wynn website lists the filter-DC matches. And they are very familiar with various setups so if you have any doubts just send them an email or call them.

CORY! You nailed it, brah! Thanks so much for the response. I'm going to use your design if that is okay.


----------



## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...


Tim: Glad to help. If you have any questions during the build or need anything at all, don't hesitate to send me a PM and we'll work it out.


----------



## JamesVavra (Apr 27, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...


I have a Thein separator that is very similar to what you're showing up here - the intake is in the side of the barrel. It is a bit of a PITA to dump the container because of this - I have to disconnect the input hose each time and some dust will always spill out through the input hole while I'm dumping it.

When I get a new barrel, I plan to do something like what Cory is showing - with a short length of flex between the output of the barrel and the input of the blower - so that the lid easily lifts up and the barrel can be slid out.

The way you're mounting your blower to the top could make it difficult to pull the lid off when it's time to empty it.

James

**Edit: @DIYaholic: http://www.wynnenv.com/35A_series_cartridge_kit.htm


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...


newTim & JamesVavra,

Guys, thanks for the info and link.
Looks like my bank account will be shrinking. I'll be forking over some money to get me a Wynn 35A274NANO kit. I'll be sure to post a "Build Log" and pics of the process.

Again, thanks for the help.


----------



## GMotichka (Oct 31, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...












Dont know if you are in a postion to or not, but if you can exhaust to the exterior, you will be able to reclaim some of the power lost to the Thien seperator and not have to buy the filter.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...


GMotichka,

Not positive if you were "speaking" to me, but I can't vent outside (at least not easily or efficiently). I did consider it. However, the DC would have to be in a less than ideal location and the ducts would be a PITA to run.

Sorry newTim, I don't mean to highjack.
Now, back to our regularly scheduled programming!


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...


it looks pretty dog gone cool to me I would set mine up the same way when I get it but don't know if I have the space.


----------



## therookie (Aug 29, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Verticality Controversy Rages On*
> 
> The question before us is whether it is 1) safe, 2) feasible, 3) advisable, 4) possible to align a HF Dust Collector motor horizontally. There have been many examples in the review section of doing this and there have been a lot of comments both pro and con. A couple of folks (CovenantCreation and MichaelJ) have done so and reported success, while others have added that vertical motors should not be run horizontally. The basic reason seems to have to do with the bearings. However, beyond the general and equally useless suggestion to "check the motor", I have not seen any details regarding the risks or how to identify whether a motor can in fact be rotated.
> 
> ...


noice


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Cory to the rescue*

Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.

I used my assembly table to line up the motor and waist to get some measurements.









After building the cart I used a lift to place the blower in line with the collector.









Just like Cory, I cut down the large hose and used it for the two connections. There are no clamps. Since the hose itself is spring loaded the compression fit works just fine. In fact, the downward force probably helps seal the cyclone lid to the trash can.









Attaching the lower bag is a real pain, but I've discovered an easy way. I just used two large spring clamps to hold the back side of the bag in place. I inserted my thumbs along the sides of the bags and pulled them together working around the rim while pulling up on the bag. This was a new bag and had not been stretched, yet it was amazingly easy.









Note how the tip of each clamp is positioned above the level of the spring belt. I threaded the belt through the clamps then simply raised it into position to tighten and then removed the clamps.









Here's a couple of shots of the final product.


















I plan to install a run of 5" duct to the middle of the room along the same path as the flex hose, and I have to rewire the plug for a remote controller. Eventually I will also build a Thein separator, but for now it seems to be working fine.

Thanks to all for the comments and advice.


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


Excellent tip regarding hanging/installing the plastic bag. Good use of the lift also, wish I had one! Aligning the blower outfeed to the seperator/donut intake is the only part of this build that appears relatively difficult. Would you be able to supply a dimensional drawing? I'm sure many LJs (especially me) would find it quite helpful.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


I've noticed you have a Grizzly jointer there. Looks like an 8"....
Do you like it?
What model is it?
How long is the in feed/out feed tables?
Thnx for your answers


----------



## MikeGager (Jun 15, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


i copied cory's design as well and it works great


----------



## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


I need to get my hands on one of those lifts.

Just a suggestion, they are quick, easy and cheap to build, if you aren't satisfied with the separation of that commercial separator lid, try the Thien. They are very easy to build, and very effective…


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


DIY… Re dimensions: the bottom and side are 22" x about 48". The width of the 2×4s and 3/4" plywood allow the motor to hang 4 1/4" from the edge so the weight is well inside the wheels. It seems to work well. You may notice that Cory left the space under the motor mount open. I had not noticed this detail. It allows room for the cyclone lid or Thein lid of the trashcan to overhang the bottom of the cart. This will allow you to shorten the distance between the blower and collector ports. In fact, I had originally had them bumping together, but the trashcan lid was squeezed between the collector upright and the plywood side. I moved the collector back, but may go back and cut out a section of the plywood side. It doesn't effect performance, but you can reduce the unit's footprint which in a small shop is always desireable. Another thing I'd do is to reinforce the bottom with 2×4s or something else to help the bottom resist or eliminate the flexing due to the weight of the motor. I used 4 3" locking swivel casters and they make it easy to roll anywhere and lock in place.

Roger… Re Grizzly jointer. I forget the model, but it is the one where the infeed table is longer than the outfeed. It is 8" with spiral cutter. So far it is working great. Now that it is in the shop and I can see the relationship as it is nested with the tablesaw, I might consider the model with the equal infeed/outfeed table to see if the overall length is shorter. The long infeed table is a nice feature though. I just traded my table saw up from a DeltaX 52" Unisaw to a Sawstop Industrial 36". I rarely used the added table length and 36" saw allowed me to move it closer to the center of the room while pushing the jointer/bandsaw away from the center. This gives me more room to work and I can still park a car in the space.

dbhost… I bought the lift at an auto supply store a couple years ago and use it often. It is a big help in a one man shop. I've seen them in Harbor Freight and you can probably pick them up used. Before I remembered about the lift I had intended to just tilt the unit on the side and use bungy cords or something to hold the collector/waist/donut in place. One thing I noticed, however, is while the side was stout and the ninety-degree angle did not flex, the bottom did flex which caused the blower port to hange an inch or so lower. I should have run 2×4s around the bottom to prevent this but it still works okay.

Re the Thein. I'll probably build one, but so far this lid is working great. One thing I like about the Thein is the claim you can fill it higher with chips/dust and still be effective. The other thing is I'd like to make a 5" connection between the blower and the lid instead of a 5" to 4". I'm also going to run some 5" ducts so hopefully that will make it more efficient.

I meant to take a before and after decibel reading with my iphone, but forgot. In any event, it does seem to run noticeably quieter.


----------



## MikeGager (Jun 15, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


on mine i used the factory base and just added some extensions to make the extra room for the trash can and bracket that holds the motor

you can kind of see it in this picture










i had to empty mine for the first time the other day, no real surprises. i pull the outlet connection off and pull up on the center inlet, it just fits snug in the hole. then i simply scoot the trash can out and pull off the lid to empty

i was concerned that the center connection might leak so i put some door gasket wrapped in duct tape around it and it seals fine. you can see that in the picture too


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


Seems to be a common theme here. Here's mine in my AZ shop.










I used a 5 gal plastic pail with th bottom cut off as a central updraft core and a 90 degree elbow mounted horizontally in the can as an entry. Only fine dust reaches the bag.


----------



## Moops (Mar 22, 2011)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


Looks good! I built a similar cart based on all the ones here and at the Thein separator forum.

DIYaholic, when I built mine I attached the bag ring to the base of the cart, and then built the wall/motor support and also attached it to the base. Then I just laid the cart down so the "wall" was on the floor and the ring hung over it (it's not heavy at all and the supplied legs are plenty strong enough to support it hanging like that). Then it was easy to drop the motor on the "wall" and slide it to directly line up the outlet with the inlet on the ring. Marked and drilled the holes, attached the motor to the "wall" with some beefy bolts, and then stood the cart back up. Any minute slop is taken care of by using the flex-hose to go between the two ports (they are only 2" apart on mine).


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


shipwright… great use of materials and space. Maintains the original footprint. I suppose lifting the motor to empty the can is a bit of a hassle, but you probably don't have to do it very often. Did you build a Thein inside or just use the sideport? Wouldn't it be great if somebody made a clear trashcan? I'd like to see more pictures if you have any.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


*Tim*, Since it's your thread I don't mind posting more photos. My thought was that a larger diameter central updraft ie: the five gallon can, would create a lower velocity air current and less chips would get sucked along with the dust. The reinforcing ring around the top of the pail fits onto the blower housing nicely and gives a mounting face to the MDF top The can is sealed with pipe insulation.


























The only modifications to the original cart are:
1) A piece of 3/4" plywood on the original blower mount that fits the recess in the bottom of the garbage can.
2) I had to move the leg supports a couple of inches to let the garbage can center on the old blower mount.


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


How did you come up with the bucket idea? I'm no engineer, but it makes sense. Thanks for the post.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


I have a strange mind.


----------



## 58j35bonanza (Jan 11, 2011)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


Where did you get the pleated filter for your harbor freight D/C?, and what is the diameter of it?


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


Wynn Environmental http://www.wynnenv.com/35A_series_cartridge_kit.htm

It's way quieter and works much better than with the bag, even before the pack rats ate big holes in it.


----------



## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


Great execution Tim! How's the separation with the pre made lid?


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


Thanks Cory… the woodcraft lid seems to be working great. I did a bunch of milling on the planer/jointer today and there's hardly anything in the clear bag. I still need to do the duct work, but am busy finishing a couple of boxes and building a cabinet for an outfeed table. And I'll probably build a Thein lid, but for now everything is working okay so there's no rush.


----------



## therookie (Aug 29, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Cory to the rescue*
> 
> Thanks to Cory and input from other LJs, I was able to figure this thing out. Once you get past the idea of flipping the motor a number of possibilities become available. So I tossed the cabinet idea and went with Cory's design. I did not include a Thein separator, and as you can see , I'm still using the flex hose as a conduit. Still and all, with a commercial cyclone lid from Woodcraft and about fifteen feet of 4" flex hose with a couple of ninety-degree bends, this things works awfully darned well. You'll have to trust me, but there is very little dust collecting in the bag.
> 
> ...


very nice


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Clean Up*

Some final thoughts on this blog before it gets relegated to the archives. First, many thanks to all for your advice and participation. I learned many new things, made some new friends, and ended up with a very nice little system. While I haven't yet built a Thein separator or installed the duct work, I have added some accessories like the Dust Right System from Rockler. As these pictures show, the whole unit makes for efficient storage of these items and it is working great.

Putting on my MBA hat I believe the market has an obvious hole which creates a real opportunity for a manufacturer to exploit. Clearly what is needed is a two-stage cyclone, 1,500 to 1,800 cfm, collector with a 1.5hp or perhaps a 2hp motor, preferably a 110 connection, with a relatively small footprint, a remote control, and a canister filter in the $400 - $700 price range. I saw that Jet just came out with a new 1.5hp collector that purports to have some new cyclone-type (vortex?) technology, but it is single stage with a cost around $650. If it sounds like I'm asking to much just take a look at this blog and see what people like us are doing on our own. The other thing I believe people would buy is a clear can with some type of cyclone. Not only would you be able to see if it needs to be emptied, but you'd be able to watch the cyclone in action which would be kind of fun.

In summary this trip has been a blast, yup I wrote that, and it didn't suck at all, yeah, I know. Thanks again to everyone.


----------



## Sarit (Oct 21, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Clean Up*
> 
> Some final thoughts on this blog before it gets relegated to the archives. First, many thanks to all for your advice and participation. I learned many new things, made some new friends, and ended up with a very nice little system. While I haven't yet built a Thein separator or installed the duct work, I have added some accessories like the Dust Right System from Rockler. As these pictures show, the whole unit makes for efficient storage of these items and it is working great.
> 
> ...


I'm no expert in this field by any means, but from reading Bill Pentz's site I believe to achieve 1500 cfm w/ 2hp requires you to break some laws of physics. The CFM numbers you get from manufacturers are based on having little to no static pressure (SP). In a 2 stage system that's the performance of the blower when the cyclone isn't attached! How useful is that?. With a standard impeller design, you will need at least 3hp and 6" pipes to get over 1000cfm through a cyclone.


----------



## Cory (Jan 14, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Clean Up*
> 
> Some final thoughts on this blog before it gets relegated to the archives. First, many thanks to all for your advice and participation. I learned many new things, made some new friends, and ended up with a very nice little system. While I haven't yet built a Thein separator or installed the duct work, I have added some accessories like the Dust Right System from Rockler. As these pictures show, the whole unit makes for efficient storage of these items and it is working great.
> 
> ...


Nice work, Tim! Looks great. I've been considering that Rockler Dust Right kit for a while. How do you like it?


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Clean Up*
> 
> Some final thoughts on this blog before it gets relegated to the archives. First, many thanks to all for your advice and participation. I learned many new things, made some new friends, and ended up with a very nice little system. While I haven't yet built a Thein separator or installed the duct work, I have added some accessories like the Dust Right System from Rockler. As these pictures show, the whole unit makes for efficient storage of these items and it is working great.
> 
> ...


Well I'm no expert either, but my reading of the coefficient of the derivitive of variation of the launch angle means nothing. Actually the fact that I'm still above ground breaks the laws of physics on a daily basis. Clearly I'm kidding about this and do appreciate the comments and the opportunity to learn new things. I'll have to re-read the book I got on dust collection to get a better understanding. I guess the bottom line is that even though I'm running the collector through a length of 4" hose it is working great. I have noticed that some companies like Grizzly are producing smaller, mobile cyclones designed for smaller shops. But these run around $1,200 and are still a little large for my type of operation. I just think there exist a large gap in the market between the 1.0-2.0hp single stage systems and the 2.0-3.0+hp cyclones.

Cory… thanks. So far I like the Dust Right system. The main advantage is simply the large 4" attachments. You can see in the background of the pictures of the 2.5"x25' hose I used to use. The smaller diameter restricts the flow so it is not as efficient, but it is quite a bit lighter than the dust right hose which has metal strung through it. The dust right is like a giant slinky, if you remember what that was. One thing to watch is the listing of items included with this system on the Rockler site. I was a bit confused as to what specific parts were included with the kit and what additional parts I needed to be purchased separately. I suggest picking up the swivel if it is not included in the kit because the hose is so heavy. You can't move this thing around like you can a regular 4" hose. The hose uses its own suction to compress and store it on the rack and is held in place by magnets. You cannot store the hose without the rack, but it is handy and doesn't take up a lot of space. One alternative is to buy the 4" attachments and hook it up to a regular 4" hose.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Clean Up*
> 
> Some final thoughts on this blog before it gets relegated to the archives. First, many thanks to all for your advice and participation. I learned many new things, made some new friends, and ended up with a very nice little system. While I haven't yet built a Thein separator or installed the duct work, I have added some accessories like the Dust Right System from Rockler. As these pictures show, the whole unit makes for efficient storage of these items and it is working great.
> 
> ...


A fair number of people have made a similar modification, but …. I don't think any of them wound up with anything that looks any nicer than yours.

Bravo !!!


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Clean Up*
> 
> Some final thoughts on this blog before it gets relegated to the archives. First, many thanks to all for your advice and participation. I learned many new things, made some new friends, and ended up with a very nice little system. While I haven't yet built a Thein separator or installed the duct work, I have added some accessories like the Dust Right System from Rockler. As these pictures show, the whole unit makes for efficient storage of these items and it is working great.
> 
> ...


If those are the woodcraft polyurethane casters, I think you WAY over did it on the quality of your wheels (-:

This is a great example of hotrodding a machine and I have plans to do something similar in the future. Excellent work!


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Clean Up*
> 
> Some final thoughts on this blog before it gets relegated to the archives. First, many thanks to all for your advice and participation. I learned many new things, made some new friends, and ended up with a very nice little system. While I haven't yet built a Thein separator or installed the duct work, I have added some accessories like the Dust Right System from Rockler. As these pictures show, the whole unit makes for efficient storage of these items and it is working great.
> 
> ...


Ha! yes they are the expensive wheels. But they had this sale, 30% off. And everytime I move something around I'm glad I have good wheels. The front swivel locks are the real luxury so I don't have to mess around with those teeter totter side locks that I can never reach with my big feet and are always on the inside.


----------



## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Clean Up*
> 
> Some final thoughts on this blog before it gets relegated to the archives. First, many thanks to all for your advice and participation. I learned many new things, made some new friends, and ended up with a very nice little system. While I haven't yet built a Thein separator or installed the duct work, I have added some accessories like the Dust Right System from Rockler. As these pictures show, the whole unit makes for efficient storage of these items and it is working great.
> 
> ...


i agree. the woodcraft wheels are the best I've found yet and i reserve them for projects that will either 1) weigh a ton or 2) need to be moved a lot. I don't have a dedicated run for dust collection, so these might end up on my DC when I get to it.


----------



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Woodcraft Remote Control... it really works!*

Finally purchased one of these on sale at Woodcraft. It works great with this setup. Just plug in to the wall and plug the collector in to the remote. The collector fires right up. And the collector is working great too.


----------



## Chipy (Apr 20, 2011)

newTim said:


> *Woodcraft Remote Control... it really works!*
> 
> Finally purchased one of these on sale at Woodcraft. It works great with this setup. Just plug in to the wall and plug the collector in to the remote. The collector fires right up. And the collector is working great too.


I was thinking of doing the same to my HF DC is there performance difference? I might go a slightly different root and make mine with a cyclonic separator.Nice job


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Woodcraft Remote Control... it really works!*
> 
> Finally purchased one of these on sale at Woodcraft. It works great with this setup. Just plug in to the wall and plug the collector in to the remote. The collector fires right up. And the collector is working great too.


Just did this, too. I love it!!


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Woodcraft Remote Control... it really works!*
> 
> Finally purchased one of these on sale at Woodcraft. It works great with this setup. Just plug in to the wall and plug the collector in to the remote. The collector fires right up. And the collector is working great too.


I thought that remote switch was only for a 1 and a half horse motor on a 110 circut. ? So, when the DC turns on, it doesn't kick out the breaker?? Is your breaker a 20amp??? thnx


----------

