# Mobile outfeed table - anyone?



## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

Hey guys.

I have a small shop, and living in the sticks, the shop serves as more than just a place to do woodworking. So everything has to be mobile, and space can't be wasted.

So i looked on the net for ideas for a mobile outfeed table, that could also serve as an assembly table and workbench, and then add some drawers to it.

There are some problems:

- My floor isn't bad, but not perfectly even either. So some adjustability would be good. But adjustable caters are hard to get, and they are expensive. Thought about using levveling feet on the table, and then using one of the many ideas on the web, with retractable casters (like Norms assembly table). But the table is going to be 6X4 feet, and loaded with stuff, so the idea of having to lift the table in order to make the wheel dis-/engage isn't that appealing. Some use lever mechanisms, but they take up a lot of internal or external real estate.

- The table is going to move around a lot, so lining up grooves in the table with the mitre slots is going to be a hassle. Would making the outfeed 3/8 lover than the saw (to allow mitre gauges etc. to slide over the table top) work, or is your experience, that this compromises the function too much?

Pictures or links to your setups would be great.


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## jdmaher (May 4, 2011)

I built one, but I don't really move it that much. Mine is about the same size as you are contemplating, made from white oak and laminated particle board, with a flat top shelf and a lower shelf that's LOADED with "stuff" (no drawers).

I put casters AND leveling feet on mine, cause the adjustable height casters would have been twice as expensive as what I did. When the leveling feet are up, the casters roll. I move and re-level 4 or 5 times a year. I thought it would be more often, but it's not. That's because I don't move the table saw often, and I usually use the "assembly" function with it in place as an outfeed table. It doesn't take more than 5 minutes to re-level.

I DID cut miter-gauge slots. I just made them about an 1/8" wider than really needed. They are there for clearance, so precision isn't important. It's very nice being able to slide long, heavy boards right off the tablesaw with no "drop" onto the outfeed. I'm guessing I have the outfeed MAYBE 1/64" lower than the saw table (but probably notthat much). And remember, re-leveling only takes about 5 minutes. It's not at all difficult to line up the slots and get it level.

One warning: DO make sure you leave clearance room for a dust collection hose off the back of the tablesaw. In my case, the outfeed tabletop is cantilevered over the legs about 12" on the end that abuts the saw, but the hose still has a sharp bend when it hits the lower shelf. I shoulda thought that out better.


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## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

Thanks Jim.

Thank you for your idea. It's the re-levelling i don't find appeling, since the table will be moved around more than 4-5 times a year.

I actually used the "casters and levelling feet" idea on my home made welded mobile base. You can se it here if you are interested:





 (at 5 mins)

I have since added a dust port:





 . As you can see the dust port is under the motor, so it doesn't interfere.

So in reality i could just build the outfeed on locking casters, and make it 10mm higher than the tablesaw, and the adjust the table saw up to the outfeed. I guess i will move my table more than the saw.

I would just love it if somebody had figured out a cool was of making hight adjustable castors.


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## redryder (Nov 28, 2009)

I bought two sets of these. One set for my outfeed/assembly table. For me they work great. I also have levelers on the bottom of the posts. I move the table around weekly for different applications. Very quick and easy to adjust and they will hold a lot of weight. 
Just an idea…..................


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## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

They look excellent, but shipping and taxes would bring the price up to around $150 a set. If something similar was available in Europe i would like to have them.


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## CliffSCCA (Jun 8, 2012)

You could try something like this. Instead of making the adjustment from the bottom, just make it from the top. The table in the plan isn't quite as big as you mentioned, but I'm sure you could resize it for your needs. You could also just make part of it adjustable to use for an outfeed table and leave the rest at a standard height. Just a thought.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

What type of saw do you have?

I hung an outfeed table from the saw itself. It has folding legs and leveling feet that screw in and out.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/18952


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## Remedyman (May 20, 2012)

Ok, I had the idea when I first read this, but I had to read the comments. What about bottle jacks? They would give you about 5 inches of movement and all the adjust-ability you could ask for. Just an idea.


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## petergdenmark (Oct 12, 2011)

Hi Guys.

Sorry for the late response. Have been out in the real world 

I have an old Wadkin, with the same style, fence as the old Unisaws, with round fence rail, where the fence hook over the back fence, which makes it unpractical to attach anything to it. If i had a Biesemeyer style fence, i would also have made a folding outfeed.

I'm not quite sure how the bottle jacks idea would work, so that the table is mobile?

The idea with the adjustable top is good - i'll look into it.

But again - if anyone has made sturdy (like holding 400 lbs sturdy) adjustable castors, please thell me how you did it.


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