# Using a single (outer) dado blade



## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

Title pretty much says it all. I'm not interested in concerns over cut quality. Simply whether there are any safety risks in using only *one* of the outer blades from a dado set.

To answer your, why the heck would you even want to do that question, here's the deal. I designed a throat plate that accepts interchangeable MDF inserts. Which allows you to use one single primary plate for all your ZCI insert needs. 90 degrees, bevels, dados, this plate will accommodate them all.

The only "issue" is making the initial zero clearance cuts in each new interchangeable insert. I'd assume anyone who's made an MDF insert knows that this is something you need to solution for. Which often means just tossing a blade from your handheld circular saw on your table saw.

The only issue is that for those of us who use full kerf blades, a circular saw blade isn't going to cut a wide enough kerf for that initial clearance. Hence my interest in using a dado blade for this purpose. As my set's outer blades are the standard 1/8" kerf.

Full disclosure, I did try this. Even though the manual said not to run a single blade. I wore my standard PPE and threw on my level 4 plate carrier for good measure. Nothing bad happened. Shocking, right? I'm just wondering if someone can speak to an actual risk that I'm not understanding.

On a somewhat related note, has anyone ever run their dado set with their saw beveled at 45 degrees? My interest in this is also tied to making these inserts. As cutting the 45 degree inserts requires quite a bit more work to get enough clearance for me to be able to throw my 10" blade on.

And, on a final note. If someone knows of a non-dado full kerf blade in the 6 - 8 inch diameter range. I'm all ears. As, even if I can use the dado blade, it may result in that particular outer blade wearing much faster than the rest of the stack.

If anyone's interested, the picture is a few of my inserts that I've 3d printed for reference.


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## sunnybob (Oct 12, 2021)

A guess on the safety issue is if you had a single blade on while using a full width throat plate. The side gap could catch the wood and throw it at you.

I have often made zero clearance inserts by just putting a blank piece of wood in the table and very slowly raising the blade through it, while having a large heavy scrap piece held down on top to stop it lifting and flying.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

What you did is not unheard of, and if the insert was secured (fence parked on the edge to hold it down) I think it was safe. I remember sometime in the past tilting my dado blade, but I don't remember why or what i did for an insert.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I typically use a full 10" blade, usually the exact one I'm trying to cut a new zero clearance insert for. It's proven safe so far but probably doesn't look like it.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Explain what the "issue" is with MDF please. I have the Colliflower plate in my saw with changeable MDF inserts there's no issue.

I can't remember ever running a dado at an angle, but that doesn't mean much


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

Don't see any safety reason against it. Many do. Just clamp it down. ( Wedge under fence, big weight)

I used a router table to do the clearance cut on my last batch. 
Like many saws, my blade full down is only about 1/8 from the table surface, so can't use a full blade for the cut.


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## tvrgeek (Nov 19, 2013)

Don't see any safety reason against it. Many do. Just clamp it down. ( Wedge under fence, big weight)

I used a router table to do the clearance cut on my last batch. 
Like many saws, my blade full down is only about 1/8 from the table surface, so can't use a full blade for the cut.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

I do the same as Yeti does - put the 10" blade in, use a batten to hold the insert in place so it won't lift out, and raise the blade slowly to make the kerf.

Based on your question, I assume your MDF inserts are too thick and you can't lower the blade far enough to clear? If that's the case, I have two possible suggestions:

Lower the blade all the way and put the front of the insert in the table holding the back up. Slowly lower the back end of the insert onto the running blade and into place. Then you can raise the blade the rest of the way.
Use a router to cut a groove where the blade will be so that the thickness left for the kerf is only as wide as necessary to clear your fully retracted blade.

All that aside though, to answer your question directly, I see no issue (safety or otherwise) in using one of your dado blades by itself. I've done so to make finger joints several times with no problems.

Also wanted to say that I like your design  I have been meaning to make myself an Aluminum insert that accepts sacrificial inserts like yours for quite a while now. Last time I made inserts from MDF I made a batch of 5 and I recently used the last one so I'll probably force myself to do it in the not-too-distant future  Curious though why you didn't make the printed portion solid around the outside and just put the mdf in the center? Seems like it would be more stable that way. At least in the design in my mind.


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## jkm312 (Jan 13, 2020)

Dado blades at a 45 degree angle

If you are talking about running a single outer blade at an angle for a ZCI cut out I don't see it as any different than what you did at a straight 90. Just go slow and easy.

If you are thinking of running a dado stack at an angle, then most likely you will get a lot of deflection in the blades/chippers on the outside of the arbor in a deep cut. If you loose your clearance, instant disaster. For me, I would not do that.

Back in the day when beveled contrasting formica edged counters were in style, I built a jig to hold the router and straight bit to cut that groove in the counter top edge.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

A Dado stack at 45 Deg. sounds as wrong as it likely is. I would never attempt this.


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

> Explain what the "issue" is with MDF please. I have the Colliflower plate in my saw with changeable MDF inserts there's no issue.
> 
> I can't remember ever running a dado at an angle, but that doesn't mean much
> 
> - Robert


As some others have stated, my saw Delta 725 T2 only lowers a standard 10" blade around 1/8" (maybe even less) below the table. So, with a fresh MDF insert, there isn't enough clearance to seat the throat plate. Hence why I have to throw a smaller blade on the saw to make my initial zero clearance cut.

I guess that every saw is going to be different. So, while I know it's somewhat of a common "challenge", it's definitely possible others have never run into this when making their own inserts.


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

> Don t see any safety reason against it. Many do. Just clamp it down. ( Wedge under fence, big weight)
> 
> I used a router table to do the clearance cut on my last batch.
> Like many saws, my blade full down is only about 1/8 from the table surface, so can t use a full blade for the cut.
> ...


That's what I was thinking. So long as you do everything else to secure the plate when making the cut, I couldn't think of any danger in using a single dado blade. It's just that the manual says not to. Couldn't rationalize why though, other than legal CYA. I mean, in a practical sense, the outer blades are just normal blades.

I would probably use a router as well, but still need to build out my router table. So I have to find a different solution in the interim,


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

> I do the same as Yeti does - put the 10" blade in, use a batten to hold the insert in place so it won t lift out, and raise the blade slowly to make the kerf.
> 
> Based on your question, I assume your MDF inserts are too thick and you can t lower the blade far enough to clear? If that s the case, I have two possible suggestions:
> 
> ...


Yep, you're correct. There is basically zero room to accommodate a plate of any thickness that doesn't already have the kerf clearance cut.

This thing was really fun to design. Had to teach myself CAD, which was pretty frustrating at first. But now I'm pretty comfortable with it and have designed all sorts of add-ons for my saw. I probably could have found a way to make the whole perimeter of it solid. And, it actually is connected in the front at the base of the plate. T

he main reason it's open at the front is because it makes it super easy to change out the inserts. While also allowing for really solid retention. The plate is actually pretty rigid. A design with MDF only in the center would have been much more complex. Or at least for my current CAD skill set.


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

> Dado blades at a 45 degree angle
> 
> If you are talking about running a single outer blade at an angle for a ZCI cut out I don t see it as any different than what you did at a straight 90. Just go slow and easy.
> 
> ...


Yeah. I ran a single dado blade at 45. But to create enough clearance for my 10" blade, I need to remove more material than just the one cut at 45 with the smaller blade. What I did for now was decrease the bevel angle from 45 to 15 degrees, in 5 degree increments. Only doing a full through cut on the initial 45 degree.

It works well. Just is time consuming. Because I don't adjust the bevel as the saw is spinning (didn't seem like a good idea). So I make my first cut. Stop the saw. Adjust it 5 degrees. Make the next cut. Rinse, repeat.

I am thinking a router jig would be the better option. But I wanted to figure out how to do it with just the TS. As I'll be selling some of these and want for buyers to be able to make additional inserts without the need for other tools.


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

> A Dado stack at 45 Deg. sounds as wrong as it likely is. I would never attempt this.
> 
> - controlfreak


I agree. But figured why not ask while I was at it


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

> A Dado stack at 45 Deg. sounds as wrong as it likely is. I would never attempt this.
> 
> - controlfreak
> 
> ...


In my opinion, (which doesn't mean much),
I have, and didn't find it any different. 
Obviously it's removing more material so you have to use it as for what it is.

As far as using only the outer blade, It doesn't know it's all by itself.
I'll show you my solution to your problem, but it will have to be Sunday, if I remember.


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

> A Dado stack at 45 Deg. sounds as wrong as it likely is. I would never attempt this.
> 
> - controlfreak
> 
> ...


Even if it were OK to use a dado stack at 45, the more I think about it, the more it'd be more trouble than it's worth. I've got a repeatable way to cut the kerf clearance at 45 with a single blade. And is a solution that any prospective buyer could replicate.

I would be interested in your solution though. Looking forward to it!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I usually just stack enough circular saw blades, sort of like a dado, to make a wide enough kerf to get the 10" blade started. Not sure if there are any safety issues with doing that but I think I got the idea from a YouTuber, IIRC.

One other option is to rip the groove before you attach it to the the plate using the blade you intend to use. As long as it is supported in the back this works pretty well but you have get the groove lined up perfectly in the right place.

My new ZCI approach uses 1/2" plywood that attaches to the underside of the regular insert and I use my CNC to shape them. Next time I make them I am going to use the CNC to mill a starting groove so I don't have to use the circular saw blades to start the cut. I thought about trying to 3D print a new plate but my printer is too small for the length of my insert.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

BTW, I have used my 6" dado stack several times with the blade tilted. It was so long ago, I cannot remember which magazine I found an example of a project that needed an angled groove but according the article, there didn't seem to be any issues as long as the board is perfectly flat-but that is important for a uniform dado or groove depth regardless. I probably would not do in on a really long groove.


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

> I usually just stack enough circular saw blades, sort of like a dado, to make a wide enough kerf to get the 10" blade started. Not sure if there are any safety issues with doing that but I think I got the idea from a YouTuber, IIRC.
> 
> One other option is to rip the groove before you attach it to the the plate using the blade you intend to use. As long as it is supported in the back this works pretty well but you have get the groove lined up perfectly in the right place.
> 
> ...


Early on I toyed with the idea of cutting a groove to create enough clearance. But it proved to be a bit of a hassle with getting it aligned just right. Throwing my 6" dado blade on really is the easiest route.

If you've got a printer, definitely consider making a plate like this for your saw. I don't think many printers for home gamers are big enough to do a throat plate in a single piece. Mine is printed in two halves. Joins with an opposing dovetail. Which I CA glue. Then "weld" the whole joint with a soldering iron. It's SUPER strong. Like it'd take significant and purposeful force to break.

When I was doing testing, I enlisted a couple friends from a FB group (we all own the same saw) to also print them and give me feedback. On guy had a Prusa Mini, which doesn't have enough build volume to even print it in two halves. So I designed a 3 piece version for him. Worked just fine. All that to say, don't let the build volume stop you from giving it a shot.


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

> BTW, I have used my 6" dado stack several times with the blade tilted. It was so long ago, I cannot remember which magazine I found an example of a project that needed an angled groove but according the article, there didn t seem to be any issues as long as the board is perfectly flat-but that is important for a uniform dado or groove depth regardless. I probably would not do in on a really long groove.
> 
> - Lazyman


That's interesting. While I wasn't actually concerned about running a single outer blade. The idea of running a stack with the saw beveled seemed questionable at best. I may give it a shot. But, frankly, the method I've come up with (adjusting the bevel in 5 degree increments) works well enough. And it's not like I'm doing a massive volume of those cuts.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

> A Dado stack at 45 Deg. sounds as wrong as it likely is. I would never attempt this.
> 
> - controlfreak
> 
> ...


I agree with LeeRoy… there's no problem doing this. But what Wood scraps said is also true, it's more trouble than it's worth (in almost all cases).


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

Just want to say thank you to everyone. Glad I'm not the only one who couldn't think of a reason why this would be an issue. Now I'm off to churn out some more inserts!


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

I've got the "Infinity 1/4" Flat cut 8 blade they sell, which is actually just a rim blade from a Dado set ground to a FTG, instead of a modified ATB.


 * Now how that relates to what you want to do??? Your answer was given by Yeti, and again improved on by Kenny. I used to make MDF inserts all the time for the total insert, and I would use whatever size relief I needed on the backs with a spiral router bit, at the router table, and do a stopped cut, complete with stop blocks to relieve enough material from the back of the insert so it would fit down tight, right over the blade. Then I would block the insert in using my fence, parked over the "EDGE" of the insert, not over the blades proposed path. Then I would start and slowly start to raise the blade up through the insert.

Either straight 90, or at any angle it comes up, and makes the path you want for 30, 45, 60, or any degrees tilt. Once you cut through use a marker to mark it as 1/8" kerf, 45 degree tilt, or whatever it is, so later it's apparent what it's meant for. Just make sure the path of the rising blade does NOT go into your fence, and all will be good. The fence does keep them from raising up, but if you use a smallish finish nail, with about 1/16 or so sticking out the back side, and use it to go in first to anchor the back, it seems to add more stability, and anchorage. Now on angles, it's possible you may need to swap the fence to the not frequently used half, to not saw the fence, but most all fences are more mobile than you think.

My current saw came to me with a Betterly ZCI, and I make the inserts for that out of BB plywood just because 1/4" MDF is like crap for something getting that much work. 1/2" MDF is ok, and cheap if you are making the entire insert. But I still relieve the backs at the router table.


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

> I ve got the "Infinity 1/4" Flat cut 8 blade they sell, which is actually just a rim blade from a Dado set ground to a FTG, instead of a modified ATB.
> 
> 
> * Now how that relates to what you want to do??? Your answer was given by Yeti, and again improved on by Kenny. I used to make MDF inserts all the time for the total insert, and I would use whatever size relief I needed on the backs with a spiral router bit, at the router table, and do a stopped cut, complete with stop blocks to relieve enough material from the back of the insert so it would fit down tight, right over the blade. Then I would block the insert in using my fence, parked over the "EDGE" of the insert, not over the blades proposed path. Then I would start and slowly start to raise the blade up through the insert.
> ...


All good info. If I had a router table set up, this would definitely be a different story. Maybe I should treat this as the motivation to finally bite the bullet and build the router wing I intend to add to my table saw.

I'd never seen the Betterly ZCI. That's pretty cool. When someone else asked earlier about why I didn't just make the plate solid all the way around, so the insert could be placed in the middle, I didn't really know how to achieve that. At least while still ensuring the insert is properly retained in the plate. Sure, mine is "tool free". But securing it with a few fasteners really wouldn't be a big deal. Unless someone worked in some bizarre shop setting where they had to change out their insert every other cut. I may mock one up and see what I can come up with.

I also had no idea the Infinity Flat Cut 8" blade existed. But, given that there are no issues using a rim blade from my dado set, I probably don't need to spend the money on something where I already have a solution. And, as far as using the fence to "anchor" the insert when clearing the initial kerf channel, that's also something that I've done. I opted for a piece of thin aluminum sheeting to account for the small gap between table and fence. But, a finish nail would work just as well.

Really appreciate your post. Opened my eyes to a couple things I didn't know existed, and definitely gave me a couple things to think about.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

After taking a closer look at your pics in the OP, I see now that you used a dovetail shaped insert and that your main body is solid all the way around at the bottom. I think you hit the nail on the head with your design after looking a little closer. The solid bottom keeps the two sides from moving independently which was my initial concern. I think I would keep the design like it is if I were you.

The only possible improvement that comes to mind is maybe to make one side dovetailed and the other flat and use setscrews from the side to force the flat side over into the dovetail. The only reason I would consider that is because it would make replacement inserts easier to fabricate. As it is now, if you're off a little bit on the width or the bevel angle, the insert may not fit or may fit with some slop.

You might also consider making the inserts only 1/8" thick and using something like phenolic sheets to make the inserts from. This would allow the solid section at the bottom to be thicker and would also make it easier for you to cut your kerf in since you could just lower the blade and pop the insert in.

Just a couple thoughts. Overall, your design is well thought out and functional. I like it a lot


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I'd love to see the insert up close to see how you joined the 2 half's or even the CAD files if you don't mind sharing them. Looks like a pretty innovative design.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I was going to say route a dado, but how about run a 1/2" wide dado into the bottom to give enough clearance to at least let you drop the plate more

1/4" thick inserts would be better, but it's a nice accessory.


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## AlanWS (Aug 28, 2008)

The main disadvantage of making cuts with one blade of a dado stack is that you dull the blade, and it's much more expensive to sharpen than a regular blade because you need to resharpen the entire stack so the size remains the same for all parts. The thing I wouldn't do is cut with a dado chipper without blade on both sides. The grind of a dado blade is likely to make the cut clean on only one edge, but for your use and a few cuts, there should be no problem.

For those who won't cut with a dado stack tilted, it does require some care, but it's the same care you need with any dado stack cut. Tilting the blade can be very useful, for instance to make birdsmouth edge joints, especially in arbitrary numbers of pieces where a router is very cumbersome.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I'd be concerned about something happening to the outer blade, I would just use an appropriate sized chipper by itself.


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

> After taking a closer look at your pics in the OP, I see now that you used a dovetail shaped insert and that your main body is solid all the way around at the bottom. I think you hit the nail on the head with your design after looking a little closer. The solid bottom keeps the two sides from moving independently which was my initial concern. I think I would keep the design like it is if I were you.
> 
> The only possible improvement that comes to mind is maybe to make one side dovetailed and the other flat and use setscrews from the side to force the flat side over into the dovetail. The only reason I would consider that is because it would make replacement inserts easier to fabricate. As it is now, if you re off a little bit on the width or the bevel angle, the insert may not fit or may fit with some slop.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Ken! The design went through a couple iterations, but the core of has remained the same. Maybe it was a bit of dumb luck to opt for a dovetail with the inserts, but it's proven to be a solid choice. Super secure, easy and repeatable to fabricate.

As far as set screws, it's not a bad idea. However, I've found that the cut dimensions are actually forgiving. Although the best way to make the inserts is predicated on a common theme in woodworking. That is, sneak up on the ideal fit. Start a little on the oversized side. Check the fit. Make a small adjustment. Rinse and repeat until you're happy. And once you are, churn out a whole pile of inserts.

One other thing that helps with keeping the MDF secure and properly oriented, but that you can't see in the pics, is what I call "kerf retaining channels" at the rear of the dovetail. Essentially you just need to cut a 1" long channel on each side at the rear of the MDF. Which creates two outer "tabs" that engage the plate's rear retention channels.

The idea behind it was to ensure that the kerf doesn't somehow close in on itself. I tried to snag a pic, but I'm not sure how well it'll come through. The plate I'm personally running is an earlier version that doesn't even have these. And I've had no issues. But I figure the added security won't hurt.



















Funny thing is, the design actually does include a set screw element for the MDF. But it's not for side-to-side movement. Instead, I have 4 embedment nuts in the base of the dovetail channel. Which can be used, if needed, to raise/level the MDF. The idea was that tolerances between sheets of MDF means a one-size fits all approach would be a pipe dream. Personally, I find it easiest to buy a sheet that's slightly thicker than necessary. Then just use a belt sander to get the thickness just right. Like cutting the inserts, it's easy and repeatable once you get your first insert the way you want it. But for folks who might not have the right tools. Or the foresight to measure a sheet of MDF before buying it. The option to level raise/level the MDF can definitely come in handy.










While I'm very happy with the design, I still want to play around with the idea of a thinner plate that'd accept inserts from the top; which are then secured by fasteners. I already am using embedment nuts in the current design, so figuring out how to handle the fasteners is a done deal. But I may also test out a thinned down version of the current plate that accepts phenolic inserts. I haven't played with that stuff, but know it's already used in plates. So why not give it a shot.

Reducing the plate thickness would definitely have some advantages. Less material, means a reduction in print time. Hence a greater volume I can produce. Not to mention the expense savings. It also could make cutting the inserts easier. To the point where it wouldn't require using a smaller diameter blade to clear the initial kerf clearance. Only potential downside could be a plate that's less rigid. Right now it's pretty stout. Cutting it town to a thickness in the 1/4" range could mean that I have to solution for flexing and deflection.


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

> I'd love to see the insert up close to see how you joined the 2 half's or even the CAD files if you don't mind sharing them. Looks like a pretty innovative design.
> 
> - Lazyman


Sure thing. Here's a few of the joints when I was doing strength testing. Short story, they're all plenty strong for the application. CA only, weld only, weld plus CA. Doesn't really matter.










I think I've landed on a hybrid CA / Weld joint. While the strength of one of there other isn't really an issue. I figure that doing both adds another layer of security in the event one were to somehow fail. So the only real consideration is how much post processing I want to do for cosmetics. As the joint can be hidden. It just takes a lot of work.

Below are two identical plates. The only difference being that the black one is finished to make the plate appear as if it's one single piece. This requires additional welding, and quite a bit more sanding. Sure, it looks great. But it doesn't add any practical benefit. So the blue one on the left will likely be my go forward. I still lightly sand it with 1000 grit. Which makes a super smooth finish. But, I don't go through the trouble of trying to hide the joint. Maybe I'll offer the hidden joint for an added cost for those really hung up on cosmetics.

I'm not quite ready to share the CAD or STL files. But I likely will in the near future. I've designed and sold some dust collection add-ons as well. But this isn't my full time job. And I like to help people out. So I've already made all of those other files available. Hopefully, for now, a technical sketch/drawing of the two halves will satisfy your curiosity


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Impressive design. Thanks for sharing. I didn't catch what type of saw this was designed for.

I may have to play around with some ideas for my saw. Unfortunately, the throat plate on my Delta 36-725 is a thin sheet metal type. The thinness provides the ability to raise the blade higher than many saws but it sure makes it difficult to fabricate ZCI and dado plates for it, partly because there isn't much support for the plate and leveling even the stock plates is a PITA. I finally bought their expensive ZCI that has a composite piece as the consumable piece (which they don't sell replacements for BTW) but it only covers the front of the plate which allows small pieces to fall into it behind the blade. I didn't like their approach so I designed my own consumable that I mill on the CNC that fills the entire gap , though I do have to increase the length of the slot after I raise the blade up through the insert by removing it an making stopped rip cut so that I can use the riving knife. I just use plywood for the consumable because I loathe milling MDF.

Do you have an online store where you sell the DC fittings?


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

> I d be concerned about something happening to the outer blade, I would just use an appropriate sized chipper by itself.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


Yeti, with deepest respect for you and your experiance…that is a really (really) bad idea. The distance between the teeth would allow for the mother of all kickbacks.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

> I d be concerned about something happening to the outer blade, I would just use an appropriate sized chipper by itself.
> 
> - bigblockyeti
> 
> ...


It's far saver if you feed from the back of the saw so if it catches, you won't be in the line of fire.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

On my dado stacks, the chippers are way too wide to cut a zero clearance kerf. Because they overlap the teeth on the blade or chipper on both sides, I think they are around 3/16" wide. I'm sure that varies between makers though.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

On mine, there's several kerf widths for the chippers, usually two of each and shims allowing the perfect width dado. The chipper plates are quite a bit thinner than the kerf but not all plates are the same, they're quite thick for a 1/4" wide chipper and only as thin as they can be for the thinnest kerf chippers without risking deflection.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Kickbacks are usually caused by the piece pressing against the side on the blade where the teeth are moving forward or upward. As long as it is being hold down by the fence, I cannot imagine what I would call a kickback but my lack of imagination is legendary.  I would be more concerned about the chippers breaking chunks out of a thin insert instead of making a nice smooth cut, though that may be less of a problem with MDF I suppose.


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## vjc (May 5, 2017)

Forest sells a 9" blade with 1/8 kerf.


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## JRsgarage (Jan 2, 2017)

I think when I made mine(zci), I flipped the the zci front to back and locked it down with 2×4. Raised the blade enough to create clearance and flipped it back upright to finish


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

> Impressive design. Thanks for sharing. I didn t catch what type of saw this was designed for.
> 
> I may have to play around with some ideas for my saw. Unfortunately, the throat plate on my Delta 36-725 is a thin sheet metal type. The thinness provides the ability to raise the blade higher than many saws but it sure makes it difficult to fabricate ZCI and dado plates for it, partly because there isn t much support for the plate and leveling even the stock plates is a PITA. I finally bought their expensive ZCI that has a composite piece as the consumable piece (which they don t sell replacements for BTW) but it only covers the front of the plate which allows small pieces to fall into it behind the blade. I didn t like their approach so I designed my own consumable that I mill on the CNC that fills the entire gap , though I do have to increase the length of the slot after I raise the blade up through the insert by removing it an making stopped rip cut so that I can use the riving knife. I just use plywood for the consumable because I loathe milling MDF.
> 
> ...


Lol, you're in luck! This is for a 725 (will fit either the T2 or T1, as I believe they're the same exact plate).

This is a total side gig for fun and little extra cash. So, I can't keep enough inventory to have a store. Shoot me a PM and I can share the details on all the other DC stuff I have for the 725 series saw.

ETA: Maybe I'll just start a new thread for all the things I've created for the 725 saw. It's a pretty popular saw, so I'm sure folks who have them would be interested. Especially if they have access to a 3d printer.


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## Wood_Scraps (Jan 31, 2021)

If anyone is interested in more on my 3d printed designs, I started a separate thread…

https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/316172


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