# cutting corner radius on folding stepstool



## trifive (Apr 30, 2019)

I am making the folding step stool that Todd Clippinger made….as well as several other folks. I inserted a photo and hope that it shows up properly. I am at the point where I need to make the 1 1/16 radius on the top of the rear legs. At this point I'm not smart enough to figure out where to start and stop the radius…Do you measure in 1 1/16 from the long or pointed part of the leg? It almost looks like you start the circle from the center point of the dowel hole on one side and finish at the center hole of the dowel on the other side. HELP….I have a sinking feeling I will screw this up and have to make new legs


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

Hmm, i have a radius jig i got at Rockler? It has most radiuses on there from i think 1/4 up to 2", makes them idiot proof for me. Its yellow clear plastic.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

the diameter of the common 3oz bathroom cup is approx. 2-1/8" 
half of that will be a radius of 1-1/6".
center the cup on the corner and trace around it.
[if you don't have the 3oz cups, find something that is 2-1/8" round. 
or use the common compass and a pencil to draw the circle on paper and cut it out].
and while you are rounding corners, I personally would round off the sharp corners
of the steps the size of a quarter.

















.


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## AndyJ1s (Jan 26, 2019)

You want a section of the 1-1/16" radius circle to be tangent to both edges that form the corner.

So scribe two lines, each parallel to, and 1-1/16" in from, the respective edge. Where those two lines intersect, lies the center of the radius that will be tangent to both edges. Use a divider or compass to scribe the radius from that center point.

This works no matter what angle is formed by the two adjoining edges.

In your project, I suspect that the radius is centered at the axis of the pivot.

To find the center of a circle, you only need a flat square and a scribe or sharp pencil. If you place the corner of the square on the circumference, where the two legs intersect the circumference, connect them to mark a diameter of the circle. If you use the outside corner, use the outside of both legs. If you use the inside corner, use the inside of both legs. Repeat to find another diameter, preferably at near right angles to the first diameter. Where the two diameters intersect, is the center of the circle. To check your work, find a third diameter; if it intersects the other two at the same point, then you're good.

Hope this helps,

Andy


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

That's a nice looking Step stool what keep it from flopping down flat when someone steps on to it.
That part doesn't make sense to me. Does it have something to do with the rounded shape your fretting about.?


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

> That's a nice looking Step stool what keep it from flopping down flat when someone steps on to it.
> That part doesn't make sense to me. Does it have something to do with the rounded shape your fretting about.?
> 
> - Aj2


I had the same thought. I think the curve is to allow clearance so the narrower leg can pivot to close up on the wider leg. The dark circle under the top step is the pivot. The only thing I see in this view that stops the outward pivoting of the narrow leg is that the other corner at the top of the leg is left square and jams against the underside of the top step. Unless there is something hidden in this view that is all I can imagine. I would think that this would put a ton of stress on the pivot point and whatever is holding the top step to the wide, non-pivoting leg. I'll have to search for the original to see if this is how the stool is constructed.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

this step stool was a Lumberjocks Project
by member Todd A. Clippinger back in 2007. that is where the photo came from.
Todd said the stool plans came from a Taunton book, "Classic Kitchen Projects", by Niall Barrett.
the book is available online for just a few bucks if the actual plans are needed.
also, another member, "Skone" did the same project in 2012. https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/60887








and GaryCN in 2010 https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/29787
and a similar L/J project in 2012: https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/70625
I think it needs a hand-hold cut into the top step for easy pick up and carry.










.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

> I had the same thought. I think the curve is to allow clearance so the narrower leg can pivot to close up on the wider leg. The dark circle under the top step is the pivot. The only thing I see in this view that stops the outward pivoting of the narrow leg is that the other corner at the top of the leg is left square and jams against the underside of the top step. Unless there is something hidden in this view that is all I can imagine. I would think that this would put a ton of stress on the pivot point and whatever is holding the top step to the wide, non-pivoting leg. I ll have to search for the original to see if this is how the stool is constructed.
> 
> - Kazooman


I guess there could be a half lap joint near the top of the legs as well. A folding hinge or brass chain would look fine and give my simple mind peace.
I made a step stool for a superior court judges wife. I took no chances and built it out of 1 inch hickory dovetailed.
I anyone's wants to see it I can post just ask. 
Good Luck op


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## trifive (Apr 30, 2019)

Thanks for all the great responses. I did measure out 1 1/16 from center of point of 7/8 dowel pivot point then used a compass and it looks like it should work.


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