# "Stripped" pocket hole screws



## jstewart (Mar 14, 2007)

On my current project, I'm using a lot of pocket hole joinery. After drilling the pocket holes, I did a dry fit (no glue) to see what everything would be like when finished. (It was almost perfectly square, which made me very happy.) One problem I ran into was over-tightening the pocket hole screws. I seem to have "stripped" a couple of them. By "stripped" I mean I tightened to the point that the screw just spun in the hole, as if I had destroyed the threads made by the self-tapping screws. This only happened at one joint, where I was able to add a third pocket hole without any problems. Should I be very concerned. That joint now has 3 pocket screws, two of which are "stripped". After doing the glue-up, should I still feel confident in the holding power of the joint?


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

What kind of material is it? Particle board? Wood? Ply?


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## cmaeda (Sep 1, 2008)

I had a similar problem. Try driving the screws in by hand. Its' easy to use too much force when using a drill for this.
If the joint is critical and will be under stress, you could make a loose mortise and tenon to strengthen the joint.


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## jdashburn (Sep 13, 2008)

Yes, I would be concerned about the holding power. Cut a piece of wood the same diameter as the hole and glue it in. You may need to clean out the hole a little more first. Wait for the glue to dry then re-drill the hole and put in the screw. One great thing about this type of joinery is that only you know the location of the mistake.


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## gusthehonky (Feb 26, 2008)

I use golf tees to repair door jams when damaged or oversized holes exceed the size hinge screws need. Add glue and trim to size.


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## mleedix (Sep 5, 2008)

If there is room and the joint is absolutely hidden. You can drill out the hole insert and glue a hardwood dowel. Let that set up overnight, sand it smooth and then redrill your pocket hole.


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## CedarFreakCarl (Apr 21, 2007)

Looks like you've got plenty of good advice for fixing the stripped out holes. One thing to watch is to use the right screws for the the right wood which may or may not be the problem in your case. Fine threads for hard wood and coarse threads for pine, cypress etc. You probably already know it, but I thought I'd throw it out there just in case. Screw length is important too depending on what board thickness you have. Your pocket screw manual can help you there. One more thing, I've fixed stripped out holes just by putting 5 min epoxy in, letting it set up and then re-screwing. Good luck.


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## jstewart (Mar 14, 2007)

Thanks for all the great ideas on how to fix this. I took a step back from the project to think about this issue before continuing on with anything. I think I've actually come to the decision to not do anything about it. The joint has 3 pocket screws, one of which is nice and tight. I tried to pry it apart with my hands and couldn't even get it to show a gap (and that's with no glue on the joint yet). Also, after thinking more about where this joint will be in the end product, I realized that it really needs to hold up to shearing strain, not forces trying to pull the joint apart. Also, in the end, there will be a plywood shelf briding this joint. I plan to put pocket holes from the shelf into both the stile and rail. This will also add more strength to the joint. And to go with all of that, since this stil and rail will actually be on the floor, forming a frame-and-flat-panel side to a carcase, I plan to back up this corner with a hidden 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" block, to give the corner a bit more size and strength. With all of these reinforcements in play, I think I'll take my chances with this joint as is.

Don't get me wrong. I greatly appreciate all of the advice and ideas. In fact, since I haven't glued anything up yet, I'll probably go with the CA glue idea, the day before I decide to drive the screws one final time. I'll also be careful to use my lower-powered cordless drill with a low torque setting when setting screws for now on.


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## brownkm (Feb 9, 2008)

I think you'll be all right, as long as you've got some glue in there:

We needed an "emergency baby gate" after we brought home our 2nd adopted son at 1-1/2 years, who wasn't used to stairs… so I grabbed some left-over poplar and pocket screwed the whole thing together in an hour or two.

Now that he's been with us for a few months & manages stairs okay, we don't need the gate anymore, so last week I took it down. Took it out to the garage and thought - "hey, I can take out those pocket screws and re-use them on something else!" So I did.

When I made the gate, I put a dab of glue on each joint… and with the screws removed, the left-over glue is still strong enough on that simple butt-joint that I can stand on the rungs no problem!


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## wooddon (Jul 11, 2007)

Put some tooth picks iin the screw holes and screw them. Do not need any glue.


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## Quanter50 (Feb 11, 2012)

Ahhhhh….the old toothpick trick. I remember as a young boy fixing all Mom's loose cabinet doors with toothpicks. The doors were plywood with a finished paint of "56' Chevy Crocus Yellow". I still have some of these mounted in my wood shop after Mom remodeled her kitchen.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I don't know if anyone else has said this, but you could take some strong wood glue and mix it with sawdust until it's a paste and put that in the holes that are striped and then insert the screw again. But the best way is to use a corner brace. I hope you're not using drywall screws, some of them have no thread depth and will strip easily.


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## KenFitz (May 21, 2007)

Joshua,

I use pocket screws for everything. I was having problems stripping screws myself until I went to a woodworking show and watched a Kreg rep's presentation. One of the first things he said was if you use a driver to put the screws in make sure your clutch is set so you can't strip the screws. You already have some great advice re: fixing the stripped ones (I have used birch toothpics myself).

So setting your clutch and using the right screws, fine for hardwoods and coarse for soft woods you should't have the problem anymore.

Ken


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## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

hardware stores sell dowels of various diameeters, cheap, you can use these to patch holes more precisely than a golf tee, which would be too large for a pocket hole. Another old school trick is to put glue in the hole and add paper. I've even picked up a twig to fill a hole once upon a time when I was in a real pinch.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

I use a tooth pick or 2 with glue in striped wood screw holes.


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

I would simply put a heavier gauge self tapping pan-head screw in instead of the pocket hole screw and be careful not to over tighten.


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## TrBlu (Mar 19, 2011)

I would be concerned, because the wood will shift with changes in weather. With only one connection point, the joint could fail.

Back the screws out of the stripped pocket holes. Fill in the smaller diameter hole, of your receiving piece, by glueing in small dowel piece or a wooden match stick. Don't use Gorilla glue for this, because it will push the filler piece back out.

After the glue dries, sand flush, reassemble and drive you screw into the filled hole by hand.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

Toothpicks or matchsticks will "shim" the holes so the screws hold. In the future, dial your drill clutch back to 10-12 when you're driving the screws. You want the clutch to break away just as the screw bottoms out.

FWIW, I never glue pocket screw joints. End grain to edge grain gluing isn't very strong and the screws provide plenty of holding power.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Yep! Set the clutch.
Bill


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## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

OTOH you might not have stripped but broken the screws. I would take them out just to make sure. You do not need to use the same screws if you have already drilled the hole, get some thicker screws of the same size and put them in the hole.


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## mveach (Nov 16, 2011)

http://woodworker.com/chair-loc-mssu-136-001.asp?search=chair%20loc&searchmode=2

This is an amazing product. It is not a glue but a resin that penetrates the wood fibers and swells the wood. Then it hardens to keep the hole tight.


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## rinthesun (Mar 13, 2012)

I have been building cabinets and drawers with Kreg pocket screws. On plywood I only use coarse screws or else they will strip. I also set the clutch on my drive at a low setting and then finish tightening with a hand driver. When using pockets screws with 1/2 ply it is essential to use the above method.

http://workshopprojects.blogspot.com/2012/03/router-table.html


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

These icons mean something


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## tuffruss (Nov 17, 2011)

I think your problem is taking it apart and reassembly. Each time you drive the screws they cut threads and if they don't catch the same thread they cut new and it's stripped. Put it together and leave it. To fix the stripped ones use longer screws or if you're using fine thread replace with a coarse thread. The other ideas mentioned are all very good as well. Hope this helps Russ.


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## startreking (Jan 4, 2012)

Let me guess the bulls-eye on the drill means use drill? and the slash through the screwdriver means don't use?


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## wee3 (Mar 6, 2012)

Thats the problem with pockets,theres 2 different screws,@a choice of plugs.


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