# The Humble Hand Brace - A Beginner's Guide to Restoring, Buying and Using



## Brit

*Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*

In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:

• Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
• Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
• Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace. 
• Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
• Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.

Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.

I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.

All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.

So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.










Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?










The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.










Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.










Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.










Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.










Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!










If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.










For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.










I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.










After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).










Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.










Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).










When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.










Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.










I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.










While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.










I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.










The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.










There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.










They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.










I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.










One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.










Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.










After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.










To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.










Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.










After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.










I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.










I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.










There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.

So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.










Thanks for looking.

Andy


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


very cool. Thanks Andy.


----------



## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


This is really great. Thanks for all of the detailed info.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Andy you are a star!
That is a lovely blog and I will follow it with joy.
Thank you for the detailed descriptions that makes even me understand the process.
As with your saw restore you set the bar as high as you can, and then seem to go right over that.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## btle310

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Great info and pictures. I have an old Miller Falls brace I have always wanted to restore. I look forward to the next entry.


----------



## JohnFD

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


What beautiful photographs! I have a not-so-old brace that looks just like yours except that that the chuck is not smooth, but knurled. I don't find the manufacturer's name anywhere. I will follow your blog and I am sure you will tell us how to distinguish one from another.

JohnFD


----------



## dakremer

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Holy crap!!!! Brit - I was totally not expecting a blog/step-by-step of this magnitude! This is amazing! You make it seem really easy. Unfortunately i know there will be some elbo grease involved! I've never restored anything made of metal. I've never tried to get rust off of metal either. So this is TOTALLY new to me. I am extremely excited to get started on my own (possibly even tomorrow) I do not own any files. Would cheap Harbor Freight files work??? Also I'm pretty sure my local (big box) stores only go up to 600 grit sandpaper (the black stuff)...is that a problem?

I like blogs that literally take you step by step, instead of skipping steps because they assume the reader knows how to do it - I am dumb when it comes to this, so these detailed instructions are truly great! I am pumped for the next in the series.

Got me thinking about my neighbor's tools. I dont have my own shop, and barely any of my own tools. My neighbor lets me use his shop whenever I want. Unfortunately his (power) tools are kind of old and not very accurate anymore, so i'm pretty limited as far as quality goes. he does have some hand tools though - some very very cool saws. I will take some pictures of them and show you. Maybe he'd like me to restore a couple of them for him - I'd love to do it for him for letting me use his shop!!

Thanks again! Can't wait for the next one


----------



## A10GAC

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


@dakremer: try your local autoparts store for sandpaper, usually you can pick up an assorted pack that starts around 600 and goes to 2500 in the body repair section for under $10.

Evap-o-rust in a ziplock bag works great, drop the parts in squeeze the air out and marinade for a few hours. Once the rust is gone there will be a layer of gray/black oxide covering the steel. This comes right off with a scotch brite pad and hot water. A quick dust off with the hair dryer or 10 minutes in the oven @ ~150F dries the parts right out. Speaking of water, Evap-o-rust is water based so be careful with any wood that you can't remove from the tool…it will most likely swell and may damage the finish.

My experience has been with planes and chisels and I have removed all of the handles and knobs prior to soaking. The gel might be a more controllable method around wood.

@Brit: Awesome blog…can't wait for the next part…the chuck & jaws look great!


----------



## acducey

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Your skills at restoration are matched by your photography and writing skills! Keep up the good work and we'll be awaiting Part 2.


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


I always make my tools functional, but I never make them pretty. With a blog like this I might just have to come to the dark side….so shiny…can't resist.


----------



## dakremer

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Thanks for the Info A10GAC! I will check with my auto parts store tomorrow. Is Evap-o-rust something i can get locally? I followed Brit's link and the cheapest was like a $50 jug of it!!! I'm sure there are other rust removers out there - maybe i'll just have to try one out…. thanks for all the great info!


----------



## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Harbor freight carries evaporust and I think someone said tractor supply. Citric acid is another option. It can be found at brewing stores.


----------



## dakremer

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


alright. Thanks Wayne! Just another stop tomorrow 

How about those Harbor Freight files????? or a big box store brand?


----------



## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Hmmmm. Not the Harbor Freight tool fan…. I have a ton of flea market files.


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Some tractor supplys carry it. I bought mine from orisonllc.com
its just a little more than tractor supply but the shipping is free. I think it was $26 gallon.

Here is a brace i stuck in a jug of it. you can see the where the evapo rust ended.


----------



## docholladay

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


It takes longer, but my favorite rust remover is simple white vinegar (citric acid being the active ingredient). You just have to soak things in it long enough. Another thing that can be done with citric acid is that it will rather effectively refresh the sharpness of a dull file. For rust removal, simply soak items in the stuff for a few days. Then rinse thoroughly and wipe down with oil to prevent rust forming again.

Doc


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Doc, I've tried white vinegar. The first I tried worked great. The second jug, not so much. I'm not sure if it was a different brand or what. The first jug was something my wife had undewr the kitchen sink. Maybe older is better? I was very dissapointede when the second batch didn't clean very well.


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


I'll have to try that


----------



## TimK43

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


I saw Evaporust at Fastenal one day…. Wow, what a detailed blog!!! AND the pictures are awesome!!!! I have a couple of braces that I never intended to use or restore but this has me rethinking that. It looks too fun!!!!!! I can wait for the next chapter!!!!!


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


On the pitting issue there is another way to remove it without filing a bunch away.










A jewelers burnishing tool works in a rotary shaft (think Dremel on steroids) like a bunch of tiny hammers. The idea is to smash metal into the pits and close them up, it sounds brutal but I used to do this all them time when working gold silver and platinum. This leaves a surface that just needs a bit of clean up and polishing. They make burnishers in all shapes and sizes, I would bet you would need a fairly hard one to work steel though. You could also make a heck of a mess of those nice corners if you were not careful…come to think of it, your way is probably safer.


----------



## A10GAC

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


I forgot to mention, Evapo-rust can be reused almost indefinitely, so a quart can last quite a while. The front of my bottle says that a quart can derust 75lbs of heavily rusted metal; my planes & chisels haven't been anywhere near what I would consider heavily rusted and it just keeps working. I usually just cut the corner off the bag and run it through a coffee filter into a clean plastic bottle. Only when it eventually becomes too slow to be practical does it get tossed.

I picked up my last quart of Evap-o-rust at the auto parts store for about $10, but I think the gallon at HF only goes for right around $30…a much better buy.

Sorry I'm not much help with the files, most of mine are older than me hand me downs from my father & grandfather. I've picked up a couple replacements over the years, usually from Sears when I'm wandering the tool section waiting for the Mrs.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Hi guys - Just a quick post to say that whilst I've been reading all the great comments, I haven't had any time to sit down and reply properly yet. I'm currently working out in Denmark on a project and it is a bit full on at the moment. However, I should have some time this evening.


----------



## albachippie

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


This is a great blog. I will look forward to the next installment!


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Andy, no worries. Good luck on your project. 
i hope its not to problematic. i hate those!


----------



## murch

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> •  Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Brit - you're a rock star of restoration! I too am looking forward to the next part.

p.s. - looks like your workbench (is it a Black and Decker Workmate?) could do with
some TLC )


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Thanks for all the kind words guys, glad you're enjoying the blog.

*A10GAC / Don / Wayne / Docholladay *- Thanks for giving Doug some great advice on what to buy and where to get hold of it.

*RGTools* - I've never seen a jeweller's burnisher, but it sounds like an interesting tool. However, on this restoration I'm hoping to show that it can all be done without resorting to power. I'm not saying it is necessarily the best way or the quickest, but it is a challenge to turn out something nice using nothing but the most basic of tools.

*dakremer* - You're very welcome. In fact it is I who should be thanking you really and Wayne. I bought this brace off of eBay because I have a 6" sweep skinner brace and wanted to get the 8" version. You know how crappy some of those eBay photos can be and it didn't look too bad in the photo. When it arrived, my first thought was "I've been had!" I definitely paid too much for it considering the condition. Then I bought two other 8" sweep braces that were actually in really good condition and got them pretty cheap, so I wasn't going to bother restoring this one at all. So thanks for the kick up the backside and prompting me to do it. I'm learning a lot myself in the process. This is the first time I have had to resort to files to restore a hand brace and I surprised myself with the result.

Although I'm a software implementation consultant nowadays, when I left school I did a 4 year engineering apprenticeship. During that time I did all kinds of welding and flame cutting, turning, milling, grinding, etc. and also learnt some benchwork skills. One of the exercises we had to do was file a 2" cube out of mild steel starting with a rough blank. Each face had to be square to the four adjacent faces and parallel to it's opposite face within a few thousanths of an inch. It was a good exercise and it taught me what can be achieved with a simple file and a bit of practice.

*Murch* - You're not the first to notice the condition of the B&D Workmate. I won't be restoring it though. It serves as a constant reminder that I must get around to building a proper workbench. It is about 30 years old now. I have used it for all kinds of stuff including two house restoration projects. It has lived out in the garden for the past 5 years, but it just refuses to die. I'm not sure that today's Workmates would stand up to all the abuse this one has, but I can't wait for the day when I get to throw it in a skip.


----------



## dakremer

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Brit - I just put another blog into my series. Trying to fix my chuck! I think my filing skills definitely need some practice and I also think i did it wrong - maybe i'll PM you later to show you what i did and why i think it was wrong. My files are small ones like in your pictures, from Harbor Freight - probably not the greatest quality - maybe that had something to do with the result as well - i will post a pic of them later for you!


----------



## Bertha

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Doc raises a good point about white vinegar. It'll also kill weeds in the sun and clean your coffee maker. The best part about it is it's something you can sneak into your wife's cart at the grocery store! She'll notice that WOOD magazine in there, but this'll get right through

We should start a list of things with some shop use that you can get at the grocer.

1) Paraffin - in the canning section; for lubing planes
2) Murphy's oil soap- in the cleaning section; with water for lubing scary sharp
3) Washing powder - in the cleaning section; for electrolysis


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


In the US, apparently 'Simple Green' household cleaner is great at cleaning rust and it has a nice minty smell as a bonus. If you see it in the aisle, slip it in the cart.

Doug I'm heading over to your blog now to take a look at your progress.


----------



## DaddyZ

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Nice Blog !!!


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Nice I like the cover items list AL. I'll add a few.

Add mason jars (or gladware): for mixing finishes, keeping water for tool cooling. 
Wax paper: keep your bench clean from glue ups.

Brit, your approach is wonderful. I just had the thought about the burnisher and felt like sharing I miss having access to some of those tools (beaver grinders the most…got those are wonderful wet monsters)


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


don't forget paper towels, paper towels and paper towels.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Thanks DaddyZ. Good to have you on board.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


I knew you wuold come up with something 
but this is way over my imagination …........great blog Andy 
I look forward to the next toturial in just about 2minuts and 30 secunds 
just need another cup of coffee and favorite this one for future use …. have a few to restore myself 

take care
Dennis


----------



## planepassion

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Hi Brit,
Your method of filing the chuck then sanding to produce a polished surface is straight forward. However, I noticed that the check-patterned metal at the opposite end of the chuck in your last pic also shines. What was your technique to get the check pattern to shine?

Regards,
Brad, Denver


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Hi Brad. After applying the rust remover gel to the knurled part of the chuck and waiting 20 mins, I brushed it with a soft wire brush. Using light pressure only, I brushed at 45 degrees to the knurled pattern (following the grooves if that makes sense) and turning the chuck in my hand as I went. Then I did the same thing in the opposite direction. I rinsed it off under cold water and dried it. I think I cleaned it a couple more times after that with the gel using only a toothbrush as I was shining up the rest of the chuck. Eventually the ground in crap came out along with the paint spots. After the rest of the chuck was finished, I applied some metal polish with the toothbrush and buffed it with a soft cloth.

Hope that helps.


----------



## handyrandyrc

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Brit, what a fantastic restoration you have done!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Thanks Randy.


----------



## knotscott

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


I'm late to the show, but this is good stuff Brit! I've torn apart many a hand plane, but have never dissected a bit brace…..but now that I know how!.... Thanks.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Thanks Knotscott, glad you enjoyed it.


----------



## Sgaffin

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Brit,

I have been using your blog entries to rebuild my 945 Stanley Carpenter's Ratchet Brace. Is there anyway to disassemble the collars around the handle to remove the handle?

Nevermind, I found a previous post stating how it was assemble.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Sgaffin - I'm not sure about the Stanley 945, but some collars are a push-fit and others were screwed on. The collars on most braces are made of quite soft material and are easy to dent, so go careful if you try to tease them out of the sweep handle. When you say you want to remove the sweep handle, the only way I know of to do this it to take a wide chisel and split off the old handle. The new one would be made in two halves and glued back on.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Andy, gotta review this because I came by this stanley no 923 10 in brace that needs work…


----------



## lysdexic

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Looks like a nice opportunity for a short blog Smitty. Takes us along.


----------



## AussieRoy

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Brit,

Thanks very much for a great tutorial. I just discovered your Brace refurbishment blog article, which provides most of the information I need to fix up my Grandfather's Brace. He kept his tools in wonderful condition, but unfortunately 45 years of poor storage has left it (and the rest of his tools) in a terrible condition.

I've enclosed a few photos of the brace.



























In particular, the following is a closeup of the missing Sweep Handle area.










As you can see, all that remains of the Sweep Handle are two thin (sheet metal) rings that probably fitted on each end of the handle. The rings are soft and non-magnetic - maybe lead or tin.

So, my question---- Can you provide any suggestions on how I can make a replacement sweep handle? I can remember being shown how to use this brace by my Grandfather, and it definitely had a handle then, but as I was only about ten at the time I have no recollection of how it was held on or what if any bearing surface it used.

Hope you can help. Many thanks.

Roy


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Hi Roy - Wow that has seen better times hasn't it? First of all I think you have to ask yourself whether it is really worth it. I know some tools hold sentimental value, but sometimes you just have to let them go. Old braces such as that one are so cheap to buy secondhand that it is hard to argue against this viewpoint.

However, if you really want to restore that brace, you'll probably have to remove the bent end caps that went on the end of the old sweep handle. When the brace was originally manufactured, the handle would have been slid onto the metal bar along with the end caps before the bar was bent through 90 degrees. Obviously, short of sawing through the bar and welding it back together afterwards, that is no longer an option. So you need to start with a square blank that is about 1/6" bigger than the maximun diameter of the sweeop handle and saw it down the middle lengthways. Clamp the two halves together, mark the center point on one end and drill straight through the blank. The hole should be slightly bigger than the diameter of the metal bar. Glue the two halves around the bar and once dry, you can carefully shape the handle with a rasp. To the best of my knowledge the sweep handle on your brace did not contain any bearings, it just turned on the metal bar so you don't want much clearance otherwise it will be sloppy.

Personally, I would hang that one on the wall to remember your grandad and buy another one to use, but if you do decide to have a go, please post some photos after you've cleaned it up as I'd love to see it. Good luck.


----------



## AussieRoy

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Andy,

Thanks for the advice - it was very much appreciated. I have decided to hang it in the workshop wall, but first I'll de-rust it to make it look presentable - and then basically try to preserve it to prevent more damage.

Many thanks,

Roy


----------



## tj001

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Andy,

I greatly appreciate your "course" on brace restoration. I have read and reread the post and refer to parts of it on a regular basis. I have several ebay braces with no intention of restoring to "Rusty-like" condition, but rather want to make them functional and clean (what I call "working" condition).

What I have repeatedly tried with no success is removing the play in the sweep handle (reference Part 3). I feel like I am giving good blows with the mallet, but the end caps do not budge. Are most braces built like Rusty in which the caps are pressed onto splines or is there some other way of fixing the caps? Do I need a bigger hammer (usually never a good choice in other situations)?

Thanks in advance for your insight.

-Tim


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Hi Tim, Any chance you could post some photos of your braces, then I could hopefully tell how the end caps are affixed. Not all braces had end caps that were pressed on. Some were screwed on.


----------



## tj001

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


The brace is a Stanley Victor No. 946. 
The end caps are cylindrical vs conical.
I can't see any splines.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Tim - I've checked my catalogues and found the No. 946 in the Stanley 1914 catalogue. Unfortunately it doesn't say how the end caps are affixed, but the more I think about it, I suspect they are fixed in place and cannot be adjusted. If the ends of the sweep handle have an undercut like they've been counterbored then that is why there is play in the handle now. It is the result of wear. If I'm right and they are fixed in place, you won't be able to remove the play I'm afraid.


----------



## tj001

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Andy,

Thanks for looking into this. I guess the 
play isn't so bad after all. At some point 
I'll try to make a replacement handle for one 
of my other braces, and if it goes well I may 
revisit the Victor.

-Tim


----------



## DanKrager

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Here's my deal….









Thanks for the help!
DanK


----------



## DanKrager

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


duplicate!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Got it Dan, that helps a lot. Let me do some digging and I'll let you know what I come up with.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Dan I don't have any of the pin type jaws on any of my braces, but I can't see how they would work if they didn't have a compression spring behind them that forced the jaws open as the chuck was unscrewed. Looking at the Stanley parts list, I guess the spring could be item 411 which was fitted to the brace models shown.










Unfortunately it does not give any dimensions for the spring, but I would think that the external diameter wound be slightly less than the internal diameter of the hole in the body that the spring sits in. If item 411 is indeed the spring in question, it would appear to have four coils. I would see if you could buy one from McMaster-Carr.

I've got to say though Dan that I could be way off here, so don't hold me to it.


----------



## DanKrager

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


I tried a compression spring between the jaws, never thinking about at the end of the jaws. It doesn't make sense to keep the jaws pushed into the "closed" position, though, does it? Tightening the chuck would put all the closing pressure collapsing the spring. And you couldn't easily remove the bit with the jaws pushing against the taper of the chuck sleeve. I just don't know. I have a spring collection so I'll try that tomorrow to see how it works. 411 is shown at the ratchet end of the internal chuck body making me wonder. My jaws are a cross between the two 416s at the right. 
I'm wondering about a flat u shaped spring that keeps the jaws spread until forced shut by tightening the chuck.????


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


I think your best bet is to post a question on the Hand Tool Forum asking if anyone has a Stanley No. 965 and could they post a photo of the spring for the jaws. Someone is bound to have one.


----------



## DanKrager

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


There is a circular depression where your arrow points. 
Good idea on the Tool Forum. I'll check there.
Thanks again.
DanK


----------



## innik

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Hi Andy! I have an old brace and there's a problem you didn't seem to address: It seemes out of alignment: When I use it, the bit sways, so it is hard keep it perpendicular. I constantly have to compensate at the head. 
I'd appreciate advising how I could remedy that.
Many thanks, Ingo


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Ingo - If it happens with all augers and drill bits, then it must be the brace. There isn't much you can do about that. It is difficult to straighten it accurately without specialist equipment. Maybe someone else has some ideas.


----------



## PioneerRob

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


The navel jelly I'm using smells really gross and has lint in it. I'm not sure I'm doing this right!?


----------



## Wav

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Ok, so I watched the video, about 20 times. I never thought I would ever be able to restore an old Brace that belonged to my dad. When I was very young I remember the top handle being broken and it pinched me every time I tried to use it, even using an old rag like my dad did, I was never successful. I hated that tool, absolutely hated it. Through the years the broken handle ended up missing, but Dad kept the brace in case he needed it. It is a "Worth" with a 12" swing. The old brace looked too far gone for any type of restoration or repair and the ratchet stopped working many years ago.
Well, like I said, I watched your video a lot, I decided to try and bring life back into that old brace I had grown to both love and hate. I have searched as many sites as I could find to hopefully be able to replace the old handle. I wish I knew where you get parts for these darn things. Anyway, since I couldn't find a handle my only option if I were to save this brace was to make one. Fortunately, for me a friend helped me out. 
Thanks for posting the video. My Dad's old brace works and looks like new!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Nice work Wav. That brace will last for another 100 years now because you showed it some love. The head looks good too.


----------



## Wav

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Thanks Brit. I never imagined it would turn out so well. Until I saw your video I had resolved to just keep it for "old times sake" and forget about making it usable again. Your video sparked an interest and desire to learn more about the tool and even attempt restoring it. Although I had tried over the years to drill a hole with it, until now I was never successful. I do wish I could find the old handle; but, I think Dad would be proud of the new one. I have another that is in worse condition and it is much older. I doubt I will attempt to restore it as it is in very bad shape, it belonged to my grand-dad. The jaws are missing and it doesn't have the ratchet feature. I won't destroy it because of the memories it holds; so, for now at least it will get a coat of oil and be safely tucked away. In the event I find a pair of jaws that work, I may revisit its restoration as well.
Thank you so much for sharing your video to make the restoration of this one possible.


----------



## liljimy7

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Andy,
Very nice for you to share this detailed restoration….

I have sent out some restored tools for nickel plating with great success. To protect all the hard work & elbow grease apply a final coat of Ren wax; leaves no finger prints, does not yellow, nor ever needs removal or messy oil spots.
Thx,
Jim


----------



## Catlike

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy





> ... my favorite rust remover is simple white vinegar (citric acid being the active ingredient). ...
> 
> - docholladay


In fact white vinegar is made up of *acetic* acid (ranging from 5 to 20%), not citric acid. (The 80-95% of vinegar's make-up is almost entirely water.) Ah, but who cares-it works, regardless of the name of the acid.


----------



## Albesan

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy


Thanks so much for this, so much great information on this series. Well done.


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Part 1 - Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> In a recent tool gloat, dakremer showed off three lovely braces he'd purchased and said "Now I just have to learn how to restore this kind of thing". WayneC was first to congratulate him and then proceeded to drop me in it (only joking) by saying "Brit has lots of experience in restoring braces". Later in the comments dakremer said he would love to restore at least one of them to *like new* condition. Always a sucker for punishment, I agreed to do a blog on restoring a hand brace and I've selected the worst hand brace of the three I have waiting for love. Here's how I see this blog going:
> 
> • Parts 1 to 4 - Cleaning and restoring a brace to 'Like New' condition.
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> Let me say at the outset, that the kind of brace we'll be discussing is the kind your father and grandfather would have used prior to the advent of the electric drill and later the cordless drill. I won't be discussing older metal braces such as the Spofford brace or Scotch brace, or any of the earlier wooden braces. No, the braces we'll be looking at are the ones you are most likely to find covered in cobwebs at the back of a garage, in the rust pile at a flea market, or hanging on the walls of a trendy wine bar.
> 
> I should point out before we start that there are as many different approaches to tool restoration as there are people who restore old tools. For me, the most important thing is *FUNCTION*. A tool should work as designed and perform well. However I also like my tools to look nice, so a close second to function is that they are *AESTHETICALLY PLEASING* and *TACTILE*. I want my tools to say "Pick me up and use me". With the vast majority of braces, this means removing some surface rust, a gentle clean, lubricating the moving parts and refinishing the wooden parts. I usually don't try to get them to look like new. In fact, I like to leave a few war scars here and there to hint at the tool's history.
> 
> All of the braces that I've restored in the past have been done in no more than 24 man hours, spread over a few days to allow multiple coats of finish on the wood. One other thing to note is that I won't be using any power tools or machinery during this restoration. The metalworking hand skills you'll see employed here, are basic skills that you would do well to practice. You should look at this restore as a worst case scenario. In reality, you probably *WON'T* need to employ all of the steps you'll see me perform. Use your judgement as to which steps are appropriate for your brace restoration project.
> 
> So without further adieu, let me introduce you to RUSTY, an 8" sweep brace made by Skinner of Sheffield.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skinner braces were not 'high end' tools, just simple workhorses that the working men of England would have used. As you can see, this one has certainly seen better days. By the way, that dark brown colour is *NOT* a nice patina, its rust. Let's take a closer look at the ratchet and chuck. We've got *RUST*, scratches, *RUST*, dings and dents, *RUST*, paint splashes, and more *RUST*. OMG, what have I let myself in for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The English beech wooden head and sweep handle aren't actually that bad when you consider what the metal is like and they still retain most of their finish. I will be refinishing them however, in our quest for dakremer's like new condition challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Here you can see the aluminium end caps of the sweep handle which a number of manufacturers incorporated in their braces. You'll only find it used on parts that don't contribute to the strength of the brace, typically the sweep handle end caps and sometimes the ratchet selecter. Just remember to take it easy when you restore the aluminium bits, as it is a lot softer than steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now we've had a good look at our subject, its time to dismantle it ready for cleaning. The first step is to unscrew the chuck until it is completely off. The jaws should come off with the chuck. Now insert a finger (whichever one will fit) or a piece of dowell in the business end of the chuck and push the jaws to the other end of the chuck housing (knurled end in this case). They should stick out just enough for you grab them with your other hand and gently wiggle them over the internal chuck thread and out of the housing.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Here you see the chuck and jaws removed. As far as I'm aware, all of the chucks found on braces of this era had two jaws. Some of them (like this one) had zig zag teeth to help the jaws align properly as the chuck was tightened. These are generally referred to as aligator jaws for obvious reasons. Alligator jaws can grip round, square tapered and hexagonal shanks. The jaws fit into the slot in the threaded portion of the ratchet mechanism which prevent the jaws from turning with the chuck housing. If you now stick your finger in the other end of the chuck housing (the knurled end in this case), you'll feel that the internal diameter of the chuck reduces in size the closer you get to the end where the jaws would normally protrude. As the chuck is tightened, the curved sloping faces of the jaws ride on this internal surface, forcing the jaws together and gripping the bit tight.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Now let's turn our attention to the Head. There are usually two or three screws securing the wooden head to the brace body. Unscrew them and the head should fall off in your hand. Be ready to catch it!
> 
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> 
> If it doesn't, *DON'T* start hitting it with a mallet. Some heads are screwed on to the metal (like the one shown below), with the female thread being cut into the wood itself. Grip the metal part in one hand and the head in the other hand and unscrew the head. If it still doesn't want to come off, it is probably best to leave it in situ, so put the screws back in and mask up the wooden head to prevent it getting damaged while you're cleaning the metal.
> 
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> 
> For most braces, that is as far as you need to go in terms of dismantling them.
> Now its time to commence cleaning, starting with the metal components. Its best to leave the wood until last, as cleaning metal can get messy and you'll only spoil any finish you put on the wooden components. Everyone has their favourite way of cleaning metal and that's fine by me as long as it works. Below, you can see the products that I generally use. A degreaser, 0000 steel wool, and a good general purpose light oil that lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. There is also a rust remover gel, a roll of absorbent paper towel, an old tooth brush, a scouring pad and a pin. I will also be using a soft wire brush (don't use a stiff one) and some P240, P400, P600, P800, P1200 wet and dry paper. Just to reiterate what I said earlier, use your judgement to determine which of these things you need to use. Depending on the condition of your brace, they might not all be necessary for your restoration.
> 
> 
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> 
> I start by cleaning the chuck and jaws. Before I attack the rust, I like to use a degreaser. Rust remover works better after degreasing. Give the can a shake and spray on the foam. Most degreasers are citrus based, so while the foam is working it's magic, take a moment to savour that lemony limey odour.
> 
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> After 5 minutes, I scrub the entire surface with a toothbrush (don't forget the inside of the chuck).
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> Then I rinse them off in a bowl of water and dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
> 
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> 
> Now its time to start tackling that rust. I'm using a gel, but you could also use a dip (if you're in the US, try Evapo-Rust). Some people also favour electrolysis, citric acid or even naval jelly. There are lots of ways to remove rust, you just have to find what works for you. I liberally apply the gel inside and out with a toothbrush and leave it to work for 20 minutes (other products may differ).
> 
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> When the time is up, I scrub the surface with the scouring pad and soft wire brush (yeah I know I need a new one), to remove all the rust that wants to come off. If it doesn't want to come off, don't force it.
> 
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> 
> Below you can see how the components looked after the first application of the gel. The rust has gone from the jaws, but the chuck will need another go. Heavily rusted components such as these, will usually require two of three applications of the gel before all the rust is gone.
> 
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> 
> I apply more gel and leave it to work for 15 minutes.
> 
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> 
> While the chuck is cooking, I examine the condition of the jaws. As you can see, the curved surfaces that ride on the inside of the chuck are badly scored and this will need rectifying.
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> I grabbed a flat file and filed the surface until all the marks were gone.
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> 
> The ends of the jaws were also in need of attention, so I take the time to file those flat too.
> 
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> 
> There is another potential problem with these jaws. When they are at rest as shown below, there is a gap all the way along between the teeth.
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> They should look like this, without me having to hold it together. Since I'm not sure if this will affect their function, I decide not to do anything about it until the brace is reassembled and I've had a chance to see how it grips.
> 
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> I put the jaws aside and scrub the chuck some more with the wire brush and scouring pad. Then I rinse it off and dried it. This is how it came out.
> 
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> 
> One side doesn't look too bad, but the other side is a different story. Yes it's the scourge of any tool restorer - PITTING. A little bit of pitting is Ok, but dakremer's challenge is to get it like new, so it will have to go.
> 
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> 
> Using a small flat file, I file along the length of the three flats that are pitted, taking care to follow the curvature of the surface. I only remove as much metal as is necessary.
> 
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> After about 10 minutes, the pitting has all but gone from the three surfaces, but now I have coarse file marks instead.
> 
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> 
> To remove the file marks, I draw-file the surface. For those of you who are not familiar with draw-filing, you apply a drop of oil to the surface, hold the file perpendicular to the surface with both hands. Then work it back and forth along the length of the surface until you have an even scratch pattern. Keep your hands close together and let your fingers ride along the adjacent surfaces to keep the file level.
> 
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> Here you can clearly see the difference between the draw-filed surface on the right and the coarse filed surface on the left.
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> After draw-filing the other two surfaces, I put the file aside and turn to the wet and dry papers.
> 
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> 
> I start with P240 grit and work through the grits up to P1200 on each of the three surfaces. Sanding metal is the same as sanding wood. I work in one direction only and use each grit to remove the scratch pattern left by the previous grit.
> 
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> 
> I finish by polishing the surface with 0000 steel wool. I like the way it looks but the only trouble is, now I've polished the three faces that were heavily pitted, the adjacent faces look awful in comparison. At this point, as you can see from the reflection in the surface and the droplets of water, the good old English weather decided it was time for a coffee break.
> 
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> 
> There was nothing else for it but to do the other faces too and bring them up to the same standard. Same process as before.
> 
> So here's the finished chuck - well almost. I've still got to smooth out the inside a bit to get rid of the roughness that caused the gouging on the jaws. I'll show you how I do that in Part 2 where I'll also clean the rest of the body. In the meantime, I'm off to buy a new wire brush.
> 
> 
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> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Andy





> ... my favorite rust remover is simple white vinegar (citric acid being the active ingredient). ...
> 
> - docholladay
> 
> In fact white vinegar is made up of *acetic* acid (ranging from 5 to 20%), not citric acid. (The 80-95% of vinegar s make-up is almost entirely water.) Ah, but who cares-it works, regardless of the name of the acid.
> 
> - Catlike


The key here is most guys who know restorations recommend against any kind of acid. First, It's not necessary, and second it can ruin metal. After some experience you can tell when a tool has been restored in this manner unless extensive work has been done to remove the evidence, which ruins it in another way. There are of course instances where a tool iS bad enough or the owner doesn't care. In the end, it's your tool to preserve or destroy as you will.


----------



## Brit

*Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*

At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.










Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?










Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…










I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.

Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).










After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.










With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.










De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.










After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.










I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.










After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.










As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.










I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.

*Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!










Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.










At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.










I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.










Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.

*Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.










My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.

Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.










At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.










A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.

Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:










Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:










Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:










That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.

*Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.

After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.

Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.










After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.










To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).










This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.










So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.










The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.










In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.

Thanks for watching!


----------



## Chelios

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


This is amazing, I am going to get out and try this

thank you


----------



## Napoleon

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


You did and awesome job on that tool Brit. It looks brand new now  i fell like Chelios so maybe i buy one to try. Just used to much money on a bandsaw so i need to do some saving first  
Also a great blog and good pictures so i belive everyone can understand it.

Well done


----------



## Napoleon

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


Ps if you grind flat on 2 edges on the file,then you dont need to mask with tape. Of course the file "only"works for that kind of work,but it will leave no marks.


----------



## albachippie

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


I am really loving this series. A friend just gave me an old brace with a lovely set of augers that belonged to his dad. I will look forward to re visiting this series to carry out my refurb on this fabulous old tool.

Thanks for your time in sharing,
Garry


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


wauw …..Aaaauuch….av … av ..
.....................don´t wory Andy 
its just the jaw hitting the concrete floor for the second time this evening
looking at the shinning surface you get 
thank´s its a great picturebook you have done so fare…..ceep up the good work 

take care
Dennis


----------



## acducey

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


I think it's getting to be time to pull out my father-in-law's old brace & bit.
You make a daunting task look - not easy - but do-able. Thank you very much.


----------



## TimK43

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


Once again your attention to detail is very impressive!!! I can hardly wait for part 3!!! Thanks for all of your hard work!!!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


*Chelios* - Go for it!

*Napolean* - Thanks for the compliment. As for the file, I am using a file with a safe edge. Look at the photo before the one with the masking tape where I show the safe edge. 

*Albachippie* - Thank you. Take your time on it and just enjoy it.

*Dennis* - I hope your jaw is Ok. 

*acducey* - It's not difficult, but can be time consuming if you take it to this level of shine. Usually I don't, but I just wanted to show that it is do-able with the most basic of tools if you're prepared to put in the effort.

*Tim Kindrick* - My pleasure. Glad you're enjoying it.


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


That is a heck of a good job polishing. So shiny, I think a few of my braces are in for some love.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


*RGtools* - Thank you. Yes, the world would be a better place with a BIT more BRACE LOVE (;o}


----------



## racerglen

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


Simply amazing !
Great work and great series.


----------



## murch

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


Brilliant restoration. It's like finding treasure when it comes out that good.
The before and after pic is an eye-sweller.

Also the RSPCBDWM (Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Black and Decker Work-Mates) will be calling soon to follow up on a tip-off from an unknown (cough!!) caller.


----------



## Broglea

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


SHeesh. I had no idea you could get one of these this clean and polished. Can't wait to see the finished product.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


*racerglen* - Thanks 

*murch* - Eye sweller indeed! I'll send you a box of tissues. My head is hung in shame re: B&D Workmate, but when I bought it 30 years ago, it never said on the box that I couldn't leave it out in the garden all year round. Do you think I could make a claim?

*Broglea* - I can't wait to see the finished project either.


----------



## tsangell

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


You just added to my "to do" list. This is outstanding.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


*tsangell* - Sorry about that!


----------



## Napoleon

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


Britt yes i can see what file you use,and i got a couple of them too,but on one them i have rounded the 2 edges so if i tip the file a little i wont leave any mark at all.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


*Napolean* - I see what you mean now. Yes that would be a good idea if you had a spare file to do it on.


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


Who made that dovetail saw…it's gorgeous?


----------



## Chelios

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


I am digging some old braces out today. Cant wait to get started now that I have some time off


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


*RGtools* - Its a Gramercy Dovetail saw made by Tools for Working Wood. In the next part I'll show you the matching Carcass saws (Rip and Crosscut).

*Chelios* - Yeah! I could do with some company.

Next episode tomorrow guys.


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


I thought it might be Gramercy. I recently made a pretty big order from them and I made the mistake of getting their catalog as well…dangerous material that is. It seems that all of their saws are fairly fine toothed to me though… what's your take?


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


*RGtools* - At 19 PPI, the teeth are finer than most dovetail saws on the market today. However, I think it is the ideal saw for cutting dovetails on thinner stock such as that used in boxes. For cabinet work, I use the rip carcass saw which is 13 PPI and has an aggressive zero rake angle. This is also great for gang cutting dovetails in thinner stock where more of the teeth are in the wood.


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


NICE


----------



## JaTom

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


Hi Brit

Apologies for reviving this old thread

Im in the proces of restoring a bunch of old bracers I bought for a few €, one has a semi-broken sweephandle, which I might repair. This made me wonder, how are they originally put on? Is the metalpart of the brace somehow screwed together or is the iron bended, after the handle is placed?

Does this make any sense, and/or is it a stupid question?

Beautiful work and very informative series!
Thanks a bunch!


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


I'm not sure how they are originally put on, but the metal is typically one piece. The handles I've replaced I've done in 2 pieces. I could never find another way. If you use a piece of wood, drill it, split it, the seam becomes pretty undetectable.


----------



## JaTom

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


That was quick, ty

I will do that! Im still super interested in knowing how it was done. My google skills are apparently not good enough.

Do you know if its possible to take the mechanism apart and, more importantly, put it back together?
Im hoping for an answer along the way: This is how you do it without punching out the pins;-)


----------



## PioneerRob

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


I borrowed my wife's toothbrush for refurbing my brace. Apparently, I'm told, it's not the same as borrowing a hair dryer.


----------



## Rob263

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


Just got my brace in the mail today - can't wait to start the restoration. Thanks so much for this blog!

Once question: what coarseness was the half-round file that you used to remove the pitting on the cylindrical parts?


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 2 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 1 I showed you a photo of the polished chuck. The outside was complete and the rust had been removed from the inside, but I still had to smooth the inside face to prevent it marking the jaws again. To do this, I cut a piece of dowel about 4" long, and marked approximately 1 1/6" in from one end using an awl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a 3mm hole using a hand drill. Well who's got time to charge batteries these days?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using my dovetail saw, I cut a slot about 1/16" wide straight down to meet the hole. It doesn't have to look good and just to prove it…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut a piece of scouring pad and slid it down into the slot. The important thing here is that the size of your scouring pad is small enough so that it only works on the inside diameter of the chuck that the jaws mate with and not the internal thread. You don't want to wear the thread away or the chuck will be a sloppy fit when you come to reassemble it.
> 
> Then I mounted the other end of the dowel in my hand drill (yet another thing waiting to be loved).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After lowering the scouring pad into the hole, I turned the handle and after about 5 minutes the inside was nice and smooth. I couldn't get a good photo of the inside, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the chuck completely finished, I turned my attention to the brace body. The first step was to mask up the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> De-rusting it is the same process that I used for the chuck and jaws. First I applied the degreaser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 5 minutes, I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. The threads were caked in hardened black grease and grit and took quite a bit of scrubbing to get clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then washed off the degreaser, dried it with a paper towel and applied the rust remover gel. (Where would I be without that old toothbrush?). On the first brace that I restored, I made the mistake of applying the gel to both ends at the same time. When it came time to scrub it with the wire brush, the only thing left to hold was the sweep handle which of course rotates freely. Therefore I couldn't hold the brace firmly while I was brushing it and got in a right mess. So now I work on each end individually, thus ensuring I've always got something dry to hold on to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I scrubbed the ratchet end with my new wire brush, washed it off and dried it again with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, there is still some rust that needs to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied another coat of gel, waited 15 minutes, scrubbed it again with the wire brush and washed it off. The rust was now completely removed and therefore I needed to dry it thoroughly this time. So I borrowed the wife's hair dryer (I haven't needed one for some time now  ) and kept the heat on it until the metal was very warm and any remaining moisture had evaporated.
> 
> *Tip:* It is better to take the hair dryer to the tool, than to let your better half catch you in the house with a dirty wet tool. Don't ask me how I know. Oh yeah, and wash your dirty hands before you use it too. You have been warned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even if you dry it straight away, you may still get some flash rust forming on the surface as shown below. This is nothing to worry about and will come off as quickly as it appeared.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, before I begin cleaning and polishing the external metal surfaces, I like to start the healing process on the internal surfaces that you can't see. For this I rely on tried and tested *3-IN-ONE* oil, which I think is pretty much universally available. It cleans, lubricates and prevents rust. Before I applied the oil, I used a pin to remove any grease and dirt from the oil hole. Its best to use a pin with a plastic head so you can't accidentally drop it in the hole. Just wiggle it around to clear out any crap that might be lurking there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I applied a couple of drops of oil to each of the points shown in the photo below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I turned the ratchet selector so as to engage the ratchet (it doesn't matter in which direction), gripped the threaded portion of the ratchet in one hand and began turning the sweep handle with my other hand so that the ratchet clicked. Whilst doing this, I held the brace at different angles to encourage the oil to flow over all the internal surfaces. After about a minute, the rust and dirt was carried out in the oil and I wiped it off with a paper towel.
> 
> *Note:* During the course of this restoration, I will repeat this step at various stages until the colour of the oil coming out is the same as the colour of the oil going in. That's how you know you're done. The reason I start applying the oil at this point is because as I start to file and sand the external metal surfaces, tiny particles of metal and abrasive will stick to the oil and work their way into the mechanism. By then applying more oil and working the ratchet again, the abrasive particles help to clean the internal surfaces too. When you've finished working the external surfaces, a couple more applications of oil will clear out any remaining metal dust and abrasive particles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My approach to smoothing and polishing the ratchet and body is to start with the files, then work up through the grit sizes starting with P240, then P400, P600, P800 and finishing with P1200. Finally I polish all the surfaces that I can with 0000 steel wool. Don't let me mislead you here, it takes a while to do this by hand. Buffing wheels charged with various rouges would be quicker, but not everyone has them (including me). Also buffing wheels tend to blur the transitions between adjacent surfaces and round over edges too much.
> 
> Anyhow, I followed the above procedure on the ratchet mechanism and housing and then it was time to do the bar that connects the ratchet to the sweep handle. I gripped the brace in the vice as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At his point, I thought it might be useful to demonstrate how to file cylindrical objects whilst maintaining their roundness. I'm using a half-round file for this part, so I only need to turn it over in order to do the inside of the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of people would simply follow the curvature of the surface and that is a way to do it. However, you will maintain the roundness better if you employ the following technique.
> 
> Hold the file handle in your dominant hand and the tip of the file with your other hand (I'm left-handed). Place the tip of the file on the surface. The handle should be up in the air, so that the file is pointing downwards as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using light to medium pressure, push the file forward and at the same time lower the handle. At the middle of the stroke, the file should be horizontal like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing forward and lowering the handle until you end up in this position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That completes one stroke of the file. *LIFT* the file off the surface and return to the starting position. Repeat this motion as you work your way around the metal bar. Keep your eyes on the scratch pattern you are leaving behind after each stroke and adapt your angle of approach accordingly.
> 
> *Note:* Lifting the file off after each stroke instead of dragging it back over the surface will double the life of your files. The teeth are only designed to cut in one direction and dragging them over a metal surface in reverse will only dull the teeth. Now back to the brace.
> 
> After filing the entire surface to remove any pitting, I turn to the sandpapers. Although they come in sheets, don't be afraid to cut off strips and fold the paper into shapes to suit the area you're working on.
> 
> Here I'm running a strip of P240 back and forth to remove the file marks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After working up through the grits, and polishing it with the steel wool, it starts to shine. You know you've done it right if you see some nicely defined reflections in the surface.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To do the collar that keeps the ratchet selector from sliding up the bar, I used a flat file with a safe edge (no teeth).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This allowed me to file right next to the bar without marking the surface I'd just polished. To be on the safe side though, I also masked the bar up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it, I'm going to call the ratchet end done. I think you'll agree it's a stark contrast to the other end.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The more astute amongst you will have noticed that I haven't bothered to file and sand every part. For instance the pawls and the ratchet selector. I left these for two reason. Firstly, it would be difficult if not impossible to do and secondly, I like the contrast that they give to the more polished components. Here's a closer look at the ratchet end of the brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, we'll do the other end of the brace and rub down the wood ready for finishing.
> 
> Thanks for watching!


Hi Rob, thanks for reading my blog. I'm glad you enjoyed it. I don't know what the coarseness of the file is, but since the file is only 10cm long, the teeth are pretty fine. They are warding files made by Draper and come in a set of 4 or a set of 6. The half-round file is only included in the set of 6. You can get them on Amazon.com from The Big Red Toolbox UK with free priority shipping which I believe even extends to other countries, but don't quote me on that.
Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0001K9Q3Q/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Hope that helps.


----------



## Brit

*Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*

At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.










So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.










Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.










I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.










After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).










Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.










The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan. 










I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.










So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.



















I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.










So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.

Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*

There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


----------



## rroselavy

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


Wow. You'd make Bob Smalser proud with this tutorial. Looks fantastic.

I would feel guilty using this brace unless I grimed it back up a bit…heheh….


----------



## TimK43

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


Thanks for showing how you fixed the "play" in the sweep handle!!! I never would have thought of that!!! BTW Very nice saws you have there!!!


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


oh, its getting hard to ignore. When does the book come out? I'm getting pretty close to either restoring one of these or screwing it up so bad I'll, be out the $3 i paid for it.

Thanks Andy. I love your detail.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


thank´s Andy 
great tip and if that doesn´t work …... there is always the sledgehammer …. right … LOL

looking forward to the next picturebook from you 

take care
Dennis


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


Hi Andy,
You amaze me again!
Your patience and care for the details are admirable, I do!
This is becomming such a jewel.
And yes those saws are so drop dead beautiful!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


*Scott* - We can all learn a lot from Bob and I'm sure it won't be long before it has a few scars.

*Tim* - The say necessity is the mother of invention. It would have really irritated me had I not fixed it.

*Don *- The only book I'll be doing is for people to bet on whether you'll ever restore your braces. I'm offering 20:1 against. Any takers? LOL

*Dennis* - My pleasure.

*Mads* - The devil is in the detail my friend. This is a blog for beginners after all.


----------



## dakremer

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


Brit - This brace is looking awesome! I have not gotten any farther on mine, but plan to soon (gettin busy with school). I'm looking forward to the finishing of the wood and the "surprise" at the end!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


Thanks Doug. School is way more important, the brace can wait. Hope you enjoy the surprise!!!


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


Andy I wan't to see this surprice now… I can't wait, I'm like a child!
I have been back three times to see if there were a lifting of the secret surprice.
Laugh.
Mads


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


Ah Mads, sorry but my lips are sealed. I can promise you one thing though, when people see it they will think I've finally lost it. Some will laugh until they cry, some will be concerned for my mental health and some will simply block me. HA HA.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


sounds scary Andy are you sure we gets a warning in good time …. 

Dennis


----------



## racerglen

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


And now..a loaded question..
Andy will you be covering what to do with nickle plated ones ?


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


*Racerglen* - Yes I was going to mention that some braces are nickel or chrome plated when I do a little video about the variations you're likely to encounter. Personally, if the plating is good, I would leave it be. I will be showing some braces that are plated including one where the plating is missing in places and discussing the options in terms of restoration.


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


Andy, thought you'd like this.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


Looking good Don. That's going to come up a treat.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


Don, I was just looking again at your dirty Evaporust. I wonder if you could clean it up a bit by pouring it into another container through a coffee filter paper. It would probably collect a lot of the sediment.


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


yea, I tried. I bought a new jug yesterday but thought I'd give this one more go. Its paid for itself! What you see is all that's left from the first gallon.


----------



## Wav

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


Well Andy, I didn't exactly set out to buy any old Hand Braces with hopes of restoring them. I watched your video in hopes of being able to restore a few I inherited. One such brace was missing the top Handle, you know you can't find those anywhere. Btu due to sentimental value, I couldn't just let it sit around as a keepsake. So I went about trying to follow your lead and I restored the old Brace anyway. Even made a new Handle for it. It turned out very well, not original, but very well and fully functional. I also inherited one that belonged to my Grandpa, it was much older and one of the Jaws was missing, I went to every swap meet and flea market I could find in hopes of finding a suitable brace to steal the jaws from. No such luck. Well, after being told I would never be able to restore the Brace to working order, I decided not to give up on my desire to fix that old Brace, after all it has made it 3 or 4 generations so far. I did the next best thing, I made a custom set of jaws as close to the original as possible. They work great and so does the old brace.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 3 - Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> At the end of Part 2, I left you with this photo showing how the ratchet end of the brace looked after de-rusting it and polishing it up. I still had the other end to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I went ahead and de-rusted the 'Head' end of the brace using the same process I covered in Parts 1 and 2. You don't need to see that again. After the rust came off, I found confirmation that this was indeed a Skinner brace made in Sheffield, England. I was pretty sure it was, because I've got a 6" Skinner brace that is identical, but its nice to see it in the steel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started to file and polish the 'Head' end of the brace, I decided to try to fix something that I knew would irritate the hell out of me every time I used this brace, if I didn't fix it. As you can see from the photo below (taken before the rust was removed), there is quite a lot of excess movement between the sweep handle and the end caps. This is quite a common problem on old braces. When wood rubs against metal, guess which one looses? You can see that the metal end caps have worn an undercut in the ends of the sweep handle and it felt really sloppy in use. I've never tried to fix this problem on any other brace that I've restored, but I had to try this time if I was going to enjoy using it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I grabbed a piece of scrap hardwood (Sapele in this case) about 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" and cut off a piece 5" long. The diameter of the metal bar on the brace is 12mm, so I found the centre of one of the sides, marked 6mm each side of the centre line and drew two parallel lines along the length of the wood. Using my carcass saw (filed rip), I sawed down to a depth of 1" on both the lines. Then I had a coffee while a rain cloud passed, dried my saw and gave it a light coat of Camellia oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After making the two rip cuts, I chiselled out the centre piece and cut it into two 2 ½ " pieces using my other carcass saw (filed crosscut).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the two pieces that make up my jig for fixing the sloppy sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below shows how the jig fits on the brace. The two pieces slide over the metal bar and end up centred over both of the end caps. This should allow me to apply an equal force over most of the end cap shoulders whilst keeping the end caps square to the ends of the sweep handle. At least, that's the plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gripped one part of the jig in the vice, slotted the brace into it, held the other part of the jig in my hand and lightly tapped the top of the block with a mallet. I really sneeked up on the right amount of force, as I knew that too much would cause the sweep handle to lock up completely and that would be very difficult to fix. However, as it happened I lucked out. When I checked how much play was now in the sweep handle, it was perfect. I like it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So after breathing a sigh of relief, out came the files and the wet and dry paper and I set about removing the pitting from the Head end of the brace, polishing it up through the grits and finishing with 0000 steel wool. The following two photos show how the brace looks now. I still need to polish it a little more in a couple of places, but the grunt work is now behind me and the finish line is in sight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know I said at the end of Part 2 that I would rub down the wood in this episode, but the light was failing and I was getting really tired of getting everything out and putting it away again every time it rained, so I'll save that for Part 4. What I did do in preparation though, was to wipe over the sweep handle and the head with methylated spirit to remove most of the grease and dirt from the surface. I've found in the past that if you don't remove any grime before you sand, you end up smearing it over the newly exposed bare wood and having to sand more than you needed to get rid of the marks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you have it folks, we're nearly at the end of this restoration (YIPPEE!!!). In Part 4, I'll share a few finish recipes that I think are suitable for a hand brace along with the finishing regime for each one.
> 
> Don't forget that Part 4 will of course end with reassembly and *THE GREAT UNVEILING*
> 
> There might even be a little show for you. What? Yes, you read that correctly - a little show. Confused? Well you'll just have to wait. *HA HA*.


Well done Wav. I can't see the photo for some reason, but it sounds like you had your work cut out.


----------



## Brit

*Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*

Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).

At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.










Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.










Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.










Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.










At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.

*FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*

*Process*
1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.

Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:

One coat a day for a week
One coat a week for a month
One coat a month for a year
One coat a year for life.

Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 

*WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.

*FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:

3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine

*How to make it:*
1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.

*Process*
1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.

*FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*

1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.

*WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.

I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.










Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.










To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.










NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!










This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.










I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.

While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.










After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.










24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.










I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.










Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.










After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
































































I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.

Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.

Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:

• Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
• Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace. 
• Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
• Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.

So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


----------



## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Great info Andy. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. This will be a classic blog. : ^)


----------



## racerglen

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Oh Andy, what a beaut ! And a great series as well.


----------



## mochoa

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


That is a thing of beauty!


----------



## ratchet

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Very entertaining and educational! Thank you.
Looking forward to additional installments.


----------



## mpounders

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Beautiful! Your blog and helpful instructions inspired me to follow along on my old Stanley and the little Yankee drill. I didn't take it to the level you did, but I am very pleased with how they turned out. I am looking forward to the rest of your series!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


*Wayne* - It is I who should be thanking you. If you hadn't suggested this blog, I never would have bothered restoring this one and now I have another lovely brace to put to use.

*racerglen, rochoa, ratchet* - Thanks for the compliments guys, They are much appreciated.

*mpounders *- Lovely restorations you've done there. Glad you found it helpful. There is something about these old tools. They will go on for years with just a little love.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Andy it is a beauty now!
I am in a coma after seeing the beautiful pictures you took with the stuff… arround.
That little square is sooooo sweet to.
You are with no doubt 'KING OF THE BRACE'.
Best thoughts my friend,
Mads


----------



## Bertha

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


ASTONISHING. This is probably my favorite thread in a long, long time. I need to go back and re-read your metal treatment section. This thing is incredible. Is that a BC square, you scoundrel?


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


*Mads* - Glad you enjoyed the photos. King of the brace - that's funny coming from the King of the Hacksaw 

*Bertha* - Thanks Al. Yes it is a Bridge City square. It was a Christmas present a few years back. It was about the only thing I could afford from their website.


----------



## kenn

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


This has been a fabulous blog, I've got a few braces of my own that need this type of loving care. Now I just need to get going on them. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Bertha

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


"King of the Brace". It is official.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


*kenn* - Glad it could be of inspiration. I can just see you sitting in one of your fabulous Windsor chairs rubbing an old brace with steel wool.

*Al* - Blushing here.


----------



## TimK43

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Wow, she's absolutely gorgeous!!!


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Who Andy?
He is a he!
Laugh.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


But I can still be gorgeous if I make the effort Mads. LOL


----------



## TimK43

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


*O. M. G.--- ROFLMFAO!!!!!!*


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


I'll take that as a compliment Tim


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Andy I almost died from laughs there!
Yes you are so sweet, really sad you are married.
Laughing big time.
Mads


----------



## dakremer

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Brit! That looks great! Definitely looks "brand new" like i requested! haha. Wow. I hope mine turns out a 1/4 that good! I'm about to go on and read part 5. Really amazing blog! Thanks again for doing this! Seems it has gotten quite the little following. Well deserved!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Thanks Doug. I don't know about 'brand new'. I'm happy to settle for 'shop soiled' though.


----------



## steviep

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Wow, Thank you for sharing. You are a true Craftsman.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!












Yabadabadoooo


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1.  Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Mads, since you are now an official member of the Skinner hand brace owners club, I thought you might like to see this. It is for a slightly different model than yours, but notice the decal on the sweep handle. Your brace still has some of the logo on the sweep handle too.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Oiiii,
Cool comercial, now I just have to spend a day or so to make it shine…
I do think the sticker will have to go, I'm not in love with the color of the handle…

I am like a child before christmas,
Mads


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


And so you should be my friend. I agree, lose the logo.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


;-)


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


*Mads* - Your Skinner brace has already arrived just 24 hours after the end of the auction. It is a beauty! In fact, I doubt it has seen much use at all.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Wauuuu, I am one lucy dude. I can't wait. That was fast! I can see it even shine a little so that I might have to go easy on the restore also. Thank you again,
Mads


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


thank you Andy for taking the time to share so many great photo´s 
of the step by step with us … no doubt I will return to this blog serie 
when I come to the brace´s I need to restore 
I doubt I will be able to acomplish the same shiny look yours have :-(
metal and me ain´t the best freinds

Dennis


----------



## CartersWhittling

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Thank you very much for the blog series! I have a brace I bought a couple months ago that I need to finish cleaning up still. You have increased level of quality in the tools I restore now.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


*Carter* - Thanks you. I'm glad you found it useful. I enjoyed doing it. I get an enormous amount of inspiration out of your blogs also.


----------



## jaxonquad

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Wonderfully done. Nothing less than inspirational.
I really love the shape of the chuck. It certainly is easy on the eyes. The square has some draw as well … so many tools….so little room….
Thank you for not hoarding these secrets up.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


My pleasure Wayne. I actually got quite a kick out of showing what could be done using some sandpaper and a couple of files.  It just goes to show that whilst the use of buffing wheels might be quicker, beginners who don't have them, can still achieve good results.


----------



## arangov3

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


I'm glad I took the time to look through this and in all your other blog post I am new to woodworking and have been learning about the tools. Your blog has been the most helpful by far thank you.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Glad you enjoyed it arangov3 and welcome to Lumberjocks. Lots of helpful people here who are only too pleased to help.


----------



## PioneerRob

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


I loved this, but I suggest you put an +18 years old on the title, lest a young'n become a little too enthralled by those later photos.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Thanks Rob. Glad you enjoyed the series.


----------



## 3falcon

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Great tutorial. Love it. Can't you tell me more about the beautiful trisquare pictured above?


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Thanks. The try square is a Bridge City Tools cs-150mm. I've had it for quite a few years now though and I don't think they make them anymore now.


----------



## woodcox

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Thank you for this amazing blog Andy! I've been following along and rereading it for some time now with visions of restoring my first brace. I must admit I have been smitten with Skinners ever since, something about the shape of that chuck no doubt. Rust hunting where I'm from in the States is almost non existent. Which can lead to disappointment sometimes when opening a package from the postman with only pictures to guide my purchase. But not always, sometimes you get really happy...


























I don't think more than a handful of bits have ever been chucked in there. Other than tightening some loose screws and a little spot rust removal she is good to go. I haven't decided on how far I should take this one as I think it is plated. I will definitely remove the clear varnish?that is chipping and refinish it. 








Next to a seriously, worn out and cobbled beyond repair, L.H. Turtle of Croydon which will stay on the wall. Was nice find out the history on Turtle though. Someone had stacked those washers on the quill under the head to "fix" the slop it has. I think it will retire here on the wall because it is still nice to look at.

Anyway, I thought I would share the affliction you have given me(others too I hope) here. I am very happy to start my collection with this beautiful Skinner and rightfully more to come although some "sellers" not shipping across the pond make me cry at times. I will definitely share any progress I make with the touchups and thank you again for your efforts here, cheers!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Thanks Woodcox. That's a nice Skinner brace you found. I'm looking forward to seeing it after you've worked your magic.


----------



## Wav

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


This was great. I restored my dad's old brace after reading along. I had searched for a handle without any success. The handle has a split that would pinch my hand when i was a young boy but my dad just covered with his hanky and drilled away. The handle was eventually lost; but, I didn't let that stop me. I made a new handle using a piece of stainless steel and phenolic. This blog was also served to encourage me to restore other f my dad's old tools.


----------



## mwaldtha

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Great series. I inherited 3 braces when my father-in-law passed away and they all could use this type of care. I now plan on getting to them soon. Thanks.

On an unrelated note, what type/brand of combination square is that in the final set of pictures? I love it's kind of art deco style.

Take care.
- Marc


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


Thanks Marc. The combination square is a Bridge City Tools cs-150mm. They made a 6" version too, but I don't think they make them anymore.


----------



## mwaldtha

Brit said:


> *Cleaning and Restoring a Brace to 'Like New' Condition*
> 
> Well here we are at the finale of this brace restoration (DON'T YOU DARE SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM YET!).
> 
> At the end of Part 3 I wiped the Head and the Sweep handle over with methylated spirit to get rid of some of the grease and grime that had accumulated. Now its time to rub the wood down prior to re-finishing. I start with P120, then P180, P240, finishing with P320. I know some people would frown at this and say I'm destroying the patina that has built up over the years. Sometimes that's a valid argument, but not in this case. All that this brace has built up is a lot of resentment against its previous owner for abusing it and letting it get in the state it was in when we started this restoration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before I started sanding, I wrapped up both ends of the brace to prevent the saw dust getting into places it has no business being.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then starting with P120, I rubbed back and forth along the length of the sweep handle (not around it), rotating the handle slowly as I went. Once the original finish had disappeared and I'd evened out any minor dents and scratches, I brushed off the dust and moved on to the next grit size. The photo below shows the sweep handle sanded up to P320.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next I rubbed down the Head in the same manner. To keep the underside of the head flat, I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbed the head along it in the direction of the grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, let's take time out to talk about finishes. There are many, many finishes that you could use for this application and if you have one that you're comfortable with, by all means use it. However if you'd like a bit of help, here are three finishes that will work in this situation. Whenever you put a brace down on a flat surface such as your workbench, there are three points of contact namely, the Head, the sweep handle and the chuck. Therefore the finish you apply to the wood should be able to withstand the constant picking up and putting down. It needs to be durable or at least easily renewable.
> 
> *FINISH No.1 - Multiple Coats of Boiled Linseed Oil*
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you are happy with the way it looks.
> 
> Although BLO doesn't offer much in the way of protection from knocks, it gives the wood a wonderful patina that will only improve with age and you can easily wipe on another coat whenever you think it needs it. Its cheap and virtually full-proof as long as you follow the directions above. There is an old saying with respect to BLO which says:
> 
> One coat a day for a week
> One coat a week for a month
> One coat a month for a year
> One coat a year for life.
> 
> Personally, I've never got past the one coat a day for a week stage. 
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> *FINISH No.2 - Traditional Beeswax Finish*
> You can either buy it ready made or make it yourself using the following ingredients:
> 
> 3 ½ oz (90g) white or yellow beeswax
> ½ oz (10g) carnauba wax
> 4 fl oz (100ml) pure turpentine
> 
> *How to make it:*
> 1. Melt the wax in a double boiler, over an electric heat to reduce the risk of fire.
> 2. Once the wax has completely melted, carefully and slowly pour in the turpentine. The wax will solidify immediately, so maintain the heat and stir until the wax has dissolved completely in the solvent.
> 3. Remove from the heat and pour the hot liquid into a sealable, non-plastic and wide-necked container (something you can get to the bottom of with a rag). Seal it with the lid immediately and put it aside until it has completely cooled and solidified.
> 
> *Process*
> 1. Wipe it onto the wood using a clean, lint-free cotton rag. Multiple thin coats are better than one or two thick coats.
> 2. Leave it for at least an hour (longer if possible, then buff it up with a polishing brush or another clean cotton rag.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you're satisfied with the finish. The more you buff, the more it shines.
> Whilst a traditional Beeswax finish isn't very durable, it does have the advantage that it is easily renewable, smells great and feels great in you hands.
> 
> *FINISH No.3 - Boiled Linseed Oil followed by a Wipe-on Oil-based Varnish (I prefer a Satin or Semi-gloss)*
> 
> 1. Wipe on a liberal coat of BLO using a rag or a paper towel.
> 2. Wait 15 minutes, then wipe off any residue left on the surface with a clean paper towel.
> 3. After a couple of hours, repeat steps 1 and 2.
> 4. Leave to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.
> 5. Either use a proprietary wipe-on varnish or mix your own using a brush on varnish thinned with Pure Turpentine (3 parts varnish to 1 part turpentine). Wipe it on in the direction of the grain using a clean rag or paper towel.
> 6. When dry (approx. 6 hours), wipe-on a further coat.
> 7. Repeat step 6 until you are happy with the finish.
> 8. This step is optional, but I personally think it makes the wood more tactile and leaves the surface silky smooth. I also love the smell of wax. After the last coat of varnish has fully hardened (minimum 24 hours), apply a thin coat of clear paste wax using 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain.
> 9. After at least 20 minutes (longer if possible), buff the surface with a clean lint-free rag.
> 10. Apply another coat of paste wax with a cloth, wait 20 minutes and buff again.
> 
> *WARNING* - Rags soaked with Boiled Linseed Oil will spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Immediately after use, soak the rag in water and spread it outside in the sun to thoroughly dry. Once dry it can be disposed of without risk of fire.
> 
> I hope you find the above finishes and processes useful. There are many others and you'll eventually find what works for you. For this brace, I'm going to use Finish No.3. Here's how the sweep handle looks after the first coat of BLO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its worth pointing out that if your brace has been subjected to oil and grease as this one had, you are unlikely to remove all of the evidence by sanding it down. It might look like you have, but once you apply the first coat of finish, some of the marks will re-appear. There isn't much you can do about it, as both the Head and the Sweep handle are shaped in such a way that end grain is exposed. End grain will suck up any grease and dirty oil like a straw and draw it deep into the wood. Don't beat yourself up over it, it adds character and hints at the tool's history. The following photo taken after the first coat of BLO illustrates what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To hold the Head whilst applying the finish, I mounted it on a piece of dowel. If the dowel is a little smaller in diameter than the hole in the Head, wrap masking tape around it to increase the diameter until its a nice snug fit and won't fall off. Notice how the BLO has put back some of that 'patina' we sanded out? It will get even better with age.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOW SOAK THOSE RAGS IN WATER AND SPREAD THEM OUTSIDE TO DRY!
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> This is how they look after applying the second coat of BLO and wiping off any excess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm shooting for a nice golden brown colour. The varnish will add a bit more colour, but more importantly it will add depth, some sheen and a lot of protection from knocks and scratches once it has fully hardened.
> 
> While I'm waiting for the BLO to dry, there are three parts of this brace that I have yet to clean, namely the screws that secure the Head to the body. To de-rust them, I slapped a bit of gel in the top of an aerosol can and dropped them in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After 20 minutes, I rubbed them with a scouring pad and wiped them with a paper towel.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 24 hours after I applied the second coat of BLO, I mixed up my wipe-on varnish. I used a teaspoon as my measure (3 varnish, 1 pure turpentine). Experience tells me this is enough for a hand brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiped it on with a paper towel and applied 6 thin coats over 2 ½ days, with each coat taking about a minute to apply. You could do three coats in a day if you time it right. I left about 5-6 hours between coats. There is no need to sand between coats as long as you don't apply too much and end up with runs in the finish. After applying all the coats, I still had about 1 ½ teaspoonfuls of the varnish/turpentine mixture left. 24 hours later, I lightly rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool dipped in clear paste wax taking care not to rub too hard at the edges. The steel wool removed any dust nibs and left the surface silky smooth with a subtle sheen. After 20-30 minutes, I buffed it out with a rag. Then I applied another coat of paste wax using a rag, waited 20 minutes and buffed it out again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reassembly speaks for itself really. Wiggle the jaws back into the chuck and screw the chuck onto the ratchet mechanism making sure the jaws line up with the slot in the ratchet mechanism. To screw the Head back on to the body, start the screws with fingers only to avoid stripping the wooden thread, then snug them up with a screwdriver. Don't over-tighten them. Before I show you the finished brace, let's remind ourselves what it was like at the start.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After restoration, with a drop of oil and a wipe over every few months, she's good for another 50 years at least. Ladies and gentlemen, once again I give you RUSTY…
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> I hope you've enjoyed this restoration as much as I have. I've tried to show that with a little patience and a few simple tools, you can get some great results. The only tool I used that had a plug on it was a hair dryer.
> 
> Now I intimated in Part 3 that there might be a little show. Well I decided against it due to time constraints I'm afraid. Sorry, I've just got too much on my plate at the moment.
> 
> Although this brace is back from the dead, its not the end of this blog series. Still to come we have:
> 
> • Part 5 - Tuning - Common problems and how to fix them.
> • Part 6 - VIDEO - Showing variations in design and what to look for when buying a brace.
> • Part 7 - VIDEO - Uses for a hand brace in today's workshop.
> • Part 8 - Auger bits and how to sharpen them.
> 
> So stay tuned and thanks for looking!


I recognized it as soon as you mentioned it. ☺ Thanks!


----------



## Brit

*Tuning a Brace.*

During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.










In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.










In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.










However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.










First let's turn our attention to the head.










If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.










Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.










On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.

To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.










To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.

So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.










The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!










It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.










In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.










*WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.

Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*










That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.










I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.










Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.










At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.










The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.

*WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.

Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.










One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.










Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.










In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.










I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.










Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.










Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.

Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.










In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.










On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.










People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.





































To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.










The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.










Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.










You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.

I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.

Thanks for watching.


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


This is an awesome series. Clearly this tools has not been given enough love in the past on restoration forums.


----------



## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks. Andy, people will be referring to this series for years.


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks Andy. I took mine outta the soup today, but had a few planes to sort threw. Its getting closer.


----------



## Chelios

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Done with mine. A millers falls holdall. Never thought I could have so much torque ! I bet I have more torque on my new old brace than on my cordless drill. Will be posting the photo soon.

Thanks for turning me onto this tool. I love it, it is my new favorite


----------



## dakremer

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Brit,
With the high quality pictures and writing of this blog series, you could turn this into a book!!! No joke! Just add a few more types of tools to be restored and you could get a decent length book out of this!! Truly top notch!! i'm glad we conned you into doing this! haha


----------



## lysdexic

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Bought my first hand brace this weekend. A millers Falls but I don't remember the model number. This blog series will be invaluable. Thank you so much for sharing!


----------



## ksSlim

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks! Your series is marked as a reference for my my shop. Excellent photos and text. Great Job!!


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Andy that is one wonderful blog, onve again you load us with ifo and self confidence to go and do it.
I am really impressed by the work you put into theses.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## lilredweldingrod

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


I haven't even seen one of these since I was a kid back in the 40' and 50's. About two months ago I was given one. I knocked most of the rust off and oiled it and was happy with until you did this series. NOW you have made me HAVE to do the job right. lol Does this mean I have to polish the two bits that came with it too? lol


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks for all the wonderful comments guys. It is great to see so many of you buying these versatile tools and having a go at restoring them. You won't regret it. Don't forget to post some pictures when you're done and don't tell too many people how great they are. We don't want to push the prices up now do we?


----------



## mpounders

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


When I was a young man, I worked for a couple of years as a lineman for an electrical contractor on the Gulf coast. We set quite a few poles for electrical lines and each one needed a hole bored for the cross-member that supported the insulators and the wires and sometimes additional holes for eye-bolts and guy-wires. I got a lot of exercise drilling through about 10" of creosoted wood. It wasn't too bad if you could do it on the ground and could put a little weight on it. But it was quite the workout standing on your hooks 30 feet in the air and using only arm power! I think more fondly of my brace now, than I did back then!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


*mpounders* - Thanks for sharing that. I hadn't considered that linemen would only be using arm power to bore the holes, but when you consider the position they are in when drilling, it stands to reason really. I'd love to try it, but I can see how you would soon get tired though.


----------



## lysdexic

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Brit, why do you think the North Bros. Yankee 2100 is the pinnacle of hand brace development?


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


*lysdexic* - Good question. Since it would take quite a few paragraphs to answer it properly, please allow me to answer it in the video that's coming in the next part. Hope that's Ok with you.


----------



## lysdexic

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


No - I DEMAND that you compose a comprehensive answer now! Especially for the amount of $$$ we are paying you! 

Of course its fine and I look forward to it. I remember you stating this a few months ago and briefly contrasted between the 2100 and the 2105. I will look for that post but I do not recall you explaining the overall advantages of the 2100.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


LOL and its my pleasure.


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


i can remember watching guys at the top of a pole with a bit brace. I would never had remembered that without that post. I never tried it myself, and I don't really care to. Thanks


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


I was trying to imagine how far you would have to lean back in order to hold a brace with an auger bit sticking out the chuck that was long enough to drill through 10" of wood. Your upper body must be 3 feet from the pole.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


thank´s again Andy 
as written earlyer this will be the serie people talks about …. just wait and see 

Dennis


----------



## YorkshireStewart

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Andy, having come across your blog a few days ago, I suppose my eyes were tuned into braces today at the local car boot sale. I had the choice of two at 20 pence a piece. My meagre pension wouldn't run to both of them, so I chose this Stanley 945 10" It all seems remarkably sound even the wood.










Actually, the second one was a plastic version so I left it.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


You definitely chose the right one there Stewart.  The 945 was the first brace I ever used as a small boy in my grandad's shed. He used to stand behind me and place his hands on mine and we'd drill hole after glorious hole. I can still hear him now, "Use your senses" he'd say. "Look, listen and feel how the tool cuts." Congratulations on a great find. 20p indeed. Wow!


----------



## YorkshireStewart

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks Andy, I'm pleased my bargain evoked a pleasant memory. Sounds as if he was a lovely granddad.


----------



## ss4752

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Hi Brit,

I really enjoyed your series on hand brace restoration.
I'm still new to restoring tools, but I was wondering if you had any suggestions on removing dark stains from the wood components.
I've only worked on two so far, but each has, especially on the top piece, dark staining that won't come out with sanding, oxalic acid bleaching, or solvents. I haven't tried two part wood bleach yet.

Do you have any ideas?

Thanks,
ss4752


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks ss4752. Glad you enjoyed the blog series. As far as removing dark staining from wood, I've always has good success with oxalic acid. Take a look at this post (scroll down a bit) and you can see the effects of oxalic acid) on an apple saw handle that I restored. I don't know what other options there are apart from that I'm afraid.


----------



## ss4752

Brit said:


> *Tuning a Brace.*
> 
> During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. In this episode I'd like to bring these to your attention and show you how to fix them. Since it is unlikely that you'll find all these problems on one brace, I'll be showing you a few different braces along the way. The first is a Stanley No.144 8" sweep brace that I haven't done anything to apart from applying a few drops of oil.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First let's turn our attention to the head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess 'play' during your restoration. There are a couple of Head assembly designs that you are likely to come across. I'll show you both types, as the fix is different in each case. First let's look at the Stanley No.144. This has about 1.5mm of play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. Remember that if the Head does not come off easily with the screws removed, then it is likely that the Head is screwed on to the flange. If this is the case, hold the flange and unscrew the Head. This one just fell off in my hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. This is an unsealed ball bearing race so be very careful that you don't lose any of the little balls when you take it apart, especially if you are doing it over grass like me (No I didn't lose any). The washer sits on top of the ball bearings, then the flange. The whole assembly is held in place by a U-shaped key that slides into two grooves in the side of the bar.
> 
> To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn't tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. On this design, you can also lift off the bearing housing too as it isn't pressed or soldered onto the bar like some other designs. I opted to leave it on until I'm ready to restore this brace, at which point I'll remove it, take out all the ball bearings, clean it out and re-pack it with grease. Here are the parts laid out in the order they came off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To remove the excess play, you either have to add a shim or simply replace the washer with a thicker one. Since the washer is knurled around the edge and is an integral part of the tool, I prefer to leave it original. In my opinion, the best place for a shim is between the U-shaped key and the top of the flange. In this way, you can remove the play and the fix will be totally hidden inside the wooden Head.
> 
> So now is the time to reach for that jar of assorted odds and ends that you kept telling the missus would come in useful one day. If you dig deep enough, I bet you'll find a washer that you can use as a shim. You might need to drill out the center hole a bit or reduce the thickness, but I'm sure you'll find a way. I use double-sided tape to stick the washer to a flat surface and reduce the thickness with a few swipes of a file. If you need to drill out the center hole in the washer, please don't try holding it with your fingers at the drill press. Instead grab a piece of scrap wood about 2" long and drill a hole through it the same diameter as the existing hole in the washer. Then turn the block on its side so the hole is horizontal and saw the block in two, perpendicular to the hole. Stick the washer over the hole with double sided tape and clamp it between the two pieces of wood by screwing them back together. Now take it to the drill press and enlarge the hole safely by drilling straight through the wood and the center of the washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other type of Head assembly that you're likely to come across is much easier to fix. You can see it on this lovely little 6" sweep brace, that I've been restoring in tandem with RUSTY. I've got no idea what make it is. It simply says 'Foreign' in small type and there are no other markings on it. Who cares right? She's gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also had excess play in the Head assembly. This is what I found after removing the three screws and unscrewing the Head from the flange.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this design, a washer sits on top of the bearing housing, then the flange, then another washer sits on top of the flange. The whole assembly is secured by peining the end of the bar itself. To remove any excess play, all you have to do is grip the bar in the vise just below the bearing housing, so that the underside of the housing rests on top of the vise jaws and then pein the end of the bar some more. For this you will need a Ball Pein hammer and you use the ball end to pein the end of the bar. I found that an 8oz hammer was too light, a 2lb hammer was too heavy and a 1lb hammer was just right for the job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *WARNING:* It is a fine line between the perfect amount of play and totally locking up the flange so that it will no longer rotate. You need to sneak up on it and this is how you do it.
> 
> Raise the hammer about 4" above the end of the bar and just let the hammer drop onto the bar under its own weight. If you look at the end of the bar, the hammer will follow your gaze. Concentrate your strikes around the outside circumference of the bar, so you spread the metal out. At the same time, grasp the outside of the flange between your thumb and forefinger and continually turn it back and forth. After every 3 or 4 blows, check the amount of play. When there is no more than 0.5mm of play and the flange still rotates freely, you're done. If the flange suddenly becomes harder to turn, *STOP!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how you fix excess 'play' in the head assembly. Now back to the Stanley No.144 because it's time to look at a problem with one of the Pawls on the Ratchet mechanism.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed that I could turn the Ratchet Selector in one direction and it engaged the Pawl correctly, but when I rotated it in the other direction, it stopped abruptly when it met the Pawl and wouldn't ride over the surface as it should. The photo below shows where it snagged the Pawl. Now I could have just gone through life, pressing the Pawl in with my finger to allow the Selector to ride over the top of it, but why the hell should I? It was designed to work correctly and I'm sure it worked correctly when it was new, so let's make the darn thing work correctly now! Don't put up with it, FIX it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's another view where you can see that with the Selector in neutral, the top Pawl sticks out more than the bottom Pawl. It's the top one that's the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point, I had no idea why it was catching. Perhaps the compression spring under the Pawl was bent, or maybe there was an obstruction of some kind. To find out the cause, I had to remove the Pawl and that meant knocking out the retaining pivot pin. I couldn't find my pin punch, so I grabbed a suitable nail and filed the point off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pins are usually driven out towards the Head end of the brace.
> 
> *WARNING*: Don't forget that there is a compression spring under the Pawl and as soon as you drive the pin out, it will launch the Pawl across the room never to be seen again.
> 
> Gradually increase the amount of force with each strike of the hammer until you see the pin start to move.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One end of the pin has grooves around the circumference that go on for about 6mm. Stop when the grooves just clear the housing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put your thumb over the Pawl to hold it in place and wiggle the pin out the rest of the way by hand. Then slowly release your thumb and collect the Pawl and the compression spring in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, there was no apparent damage to the spring or the Pawl. There was a small wood chip under the Pawl and a load of gritty grease which I cleaned out. It was then that I noticed the edge of the ratchet selector had a slight burr on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I filed this down with a flat needle file. I held the file close to the end and only had about 4mm of travel with each forward stoke. Even so, it only took about 45 seconds to file off the burr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing that there was no other reason for it not to work, I reassembled the spring and the Pawl and pushed the pin back in by hand to hold the Pawl in place. Then I mounted it in the vise and drove the pin home with the hammer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily when I tried the Selector again, it worked perfectly. I suspect the cause was a combination of the wood chip and the burr.
> 
> Another problem that you might encounter is excess play in the ratchet along its axis as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In a brace like the Stanley No. 144, there isn't really much you can do about it. However, some brace designs allow you to easily remove any excess. The following brace, a Stanley No. 923, is one such brace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this brace, you simply remove the split pin (see below) at the end of the ratchet spindle, turn the adjuster nut through increments of 90° in a clockwise direction and re-insert the split pin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> People often just look at the state of the jaws when buying a secondhand brace. Jaws, together with their spring, vary in design from manufacturer to manufacturer. The most important thing is that the jaws move in and out when chuck is rotated and that they meet at the end when the chuck is tight. If some of the teeth further back are a bit worn, the jaws will probably still work OK as long as they meet at the end. Just for reference, here are some of the different types you might encounter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To finally wrap this part up, there is one brace that in my opinion represents the height of hand brace development in terms of functionality. It is the Yankee 2100, made by North Brothers (who were later taken over by Stanley). This example has a 12" sweep.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ratchet on these and also the 2100A, 2101 & 2101A spins like a top when working correctly. It is engaged by pressing the button above the ratchet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the 2101 and 2101A versions were issued to Linemen who worked for Bell Systems in the US. Bell packed the ratchet mechanism with a type of grease that history has shown hardens over time. For this reason, many of these braces have stiff or seized ratchets. The mechanism is accessed by unscrewing the end cap as shown below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can dismantle the ratchet, clean it thoroughly and it will work beautifully again. It isn't particularly easy to dismantle and is too detailed a process to go into here. If you're up for it though, you can read how to do it by clicking this link.
> 
> I hope the information presented in this episode is of some help if you decide to buy a brace and restore it. In Part 6, there will be a short video where I'll discuss some of the differences in design and what to look for when buying a secondhand brace.
> 
> Thanks for watching.


Thanks for the response. I'll try a more concentrated oxalic acid. I was using a cleaner which included it as an active ingredient.


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## Brit

*Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*

I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:


Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.

YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:

1. Click Play.










2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.










3. Switch to fullscreen.










Now on with the show!











Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.

Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


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## racerglen

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


What a great series !
And enjoy the video star as well.
Andy I'm not suprized at your plating response, one thing that can be done if the plate is flaking though
is a sneaky aplication of super glue, that'll at least stop the process.


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## Napoleon

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Its not diffucult to see were your heart belongs for tools  its perfekt with a blog on video. Much more interesting than foto like i use.
Last night i was looking in old papaers and books and i found something i have forgot for a long time. And old book about tools written in and about tool in Denmark. There was a picture and decribtion of a corner-hand-brace…..Have you seen one of these ?


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## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


*PLEASE NOTE*: Just added a couple of links at the bottom of the above blog entry, that I forgot to add when I posted it.

*Racerglen* - I never would have thought of using superglue. Personally, I would sand off the plating if it was in a bad way though and just polish the steel underneath. I must confess, I'm not a lover of plating really.

*Napolean* - Glad you enjoyed the video. There are three specialist tools related to the kind of braces that we have been discussing in this blog series. They are:

*The Whimble Brace*










*The Joist/Floor Brace*. I just won this one on eBay. 










*The Corner Brace *which I think you are referring to.










I've never used any of these three types of brace, but I'd love to try them out. Maybe one day.


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## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Hi Andy,
That was a wonderful video(s), you are my favorite YouTube star from today.
I think you do excellent on video.
Really interesting and ouch it almost gave pain in my bones listening to that plastic brace… 
Yes I agree why we should put up with bad tools when we can buy wonderful used tools that we can fix and get for nothing.
I do like the spin on the 2100, but rubber handles… naaa…. Andy!
You have to buy yourself a push drill, since I know you like good design the Stanley 41 is a good choice. If you have not had the chance to use it I promise you that you will be in for a wonderful surprise.
As you know I use mine all the time now, in fact so much that I just drilled all the way through my finger, having now a beautiful sharp entrance and exit hole on my thumb… Laugh.
Thank you for a wonderful blog series, now with Andy life,
Mads


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## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


It is all true Mads, I'm a legend in my own lunchtime. )

My mummy always told me, "Do it right son and one day you'll have your name in lights."

By the way, I have two modern push drills (medium and large). I like them a lot. They use the hex drive, so I can drill with them and drive screws. These are the ones I use:


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## dakremer

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Any votes for a book contract?


> ?


 (hand raising) I'll give the first vote!


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## AttainableApex

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


i have always wanted to use a brace and one of the yankee screwdrivers but haven't had the opportunity.


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## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


*dakremer* - Actually there already is a book on hand braces. The author's name is *Reg Eaton *and the book is called *The Ultimate Brace*. Google it. I haven't read it, but it has good reviews.

*AttainableApex* - I'd really encourage you to pick up a hand brace if you see one and try it. Follow parts 1-4 of this blog to clean it up. I'm not knocking battery-powered drills at all, they are an invaluable invention, but there is something magical about using a hand brace to drill a hole where your arm is the crank. You connect with the wood in a totally different way to a cordless drill and you can feel the feedback from the wood you're cutting. Magical!!!


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## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Don't you love it when the postman brings you goodies?


























































Dronfield Tool Company Joist Brace. Made in Sheffield.


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## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


O.M.G I just remembered I can view YouTube through AppleTV. Scary! Now I understand why actors don't watch their own films. LOL


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## racerglen

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


It's YOU !
On the BIG screen !
That's better than on a wee monitor.. Can't do that with my systems..
And Andy beaut score on the joist brace, dosen't look like you have much work to do on that one..
tad of polish and that's it ?


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## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


My OHHHH it's my favorite TV star!
What a beautiful brace, but no chalange, you will need no resore there.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Napoleon

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Britt if you want to try a corner brace then look here 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=corner+brace&_sacat=See-All-Categories


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## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Andy you do it great on the screen …. at least on my computer … lol 
I thought the brace you call a joistbrace simply was developed for tight spaces 
and for corners ….......well there I learned something new again 

you never talked about (as I recall) what the benefit or lack of benefit there is between 
two -three and four jaws in the head ( not in your head … there you only need one )but on the brace

I can´t see it on the picture but isn´t the pushdrill just a yankeescrewdriver :-O

great vidioblog Andy

talking about other drills here is one I look forward to use 
the archimedes drill with weightblocks 









and yes I did get a little 3 inch brace before the water desided to get thrugh the basementwalls










take care vidiostar

Dennis


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## saddletramp

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Andy, have the Hollywood agents started calling yet? If not, I can't understand why not. Great job on the blog and the video.


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## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


If anyone is looking for a selection of stuff to play around with….

http://www.ebay.com/itm/antique-lot-hand-drills-and-bits-/230671116478?_trksid=p4340.m1374&_trkparms=algo%3DPI.WATCH%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DUCC%26otn%3D15%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D2780539283571056816


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


*Napoleon* - Thanks for posting that link. I've never seen one like that before. I thought we had gone through all the weird and wonderful designs in the Vintage Drills of your Dreams forum post that Bertha started. However, I don't really want to buy a corner brace, I'd just like to try someone elses. 

*Dennis* - The Joist brace is for tight spaces in general, but it was a favourite for drilling into the side of joists where a normal brace wouldn't fit, so carpenters referred to it as a joist brace and the name stuck.

You raise a good point about the number of jaws in the chuck. (2, 3 or 4). I have only ever used two jaw chucks on braces and traditionally that's all there was. As far as I am aware it is only in recent years that they have appeared with 3 and 4 jaws. The makers of 3 and 4 jaw braces claim that they hold squeare tapered shanks immovably. That might be true, but round shanks tend to slip and hexagonal shanks obviously won't fit in a 4 jaw chuck because two of the jaws would be on flats and two on corners. It makes me wonder why they thought that making braces with 3 and 4 jaw chucks was an improvement, since many of my two jaw chucks will grip all three types of shank and I've never had any slip on me. Personally, I think its B.S.

You are right, what I referred to as push drills are spiral ratchet screwdrivers. However, because these particular ones take hexagonal shanks, I can also put drills such as these in them and use them as pushdrills.










I look forward to hearing how you like your Archimedes drill and that wonderful 6" sweep brace. That will come up a treat.


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## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


I know why the tree jaws was developed … they came when the electric Drills arived and they started
to use drillbits with roundshaft and they just fit the hextype as you show very well too
they developed for those the battery powered drills and I think there was something about the jaws cuold 
get closed tighter to be used with tiny bits too ….....but then I wuold go for a small eggbeater or
the archimedes type if we are under 1 mm in diameter on the bits , better yet one tiny drillpress instead 

Dennis


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Dennis - If I need to drill 1mm or less, I slot one of these tiny chucks in the Yankee screwdriver and I'm good to go.


----------



## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


You might want to have a favorite accessories blog entry. I just picked up some of the yankee to hex converters from lee valley.

That is a nice little chuck. Which brand is it?


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


I think its a Stanley Wayne, but it doesn't have any writing on it.


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## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Thanks Andy.

Here are some cheap braces if anyone is looking for some to restore….

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-5-VINTAGE-hand-drill-tool-lot-hand-drill-lot-braces-brace-drill-lot-/320760109200?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aaecad890

I missed the shipping cost. Kind of expensive to ship to the west coast.


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## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


nice chuck Andy


----------



## lysdexic

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Well, there goes the market for the Yankee 2100


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## lysdexic

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Here is a Yankee 2100 brace. You can buy it now for $240.


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## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


*lysdexic* - If I had such powers I would go on air to tell everyone that* Lie Nielsen* tools suck. Once I'd bought them all up cheaply and filled every room in my house, I'd go back on air, apologise profusely and declare I'd made a typo. What I meant to say was *Leslie Nielsen* sucks. )

I think that's a bit steep for the condition it is in. Makes me wonder what mine is worth. (Andy rubs his hands with glee).

About a year ago, someone found three of them brand new in a basement somewhere. I think it was an 8", 10" and 12", all still in their packaging and never been used. All three were snapped up in no time at all.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Correction - It was an 8", 12" and 14" and you can see them in this link, 5th item down. Lord knows what they went for. If I'd seen them before they were sold, I'd have gladly paid the postage to the UK for that stash.


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## mochoa

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Thanks for the video Andy. Great info.

Did anyone else find the pictures of the unpacking of the brace obscene? Maybe it's just me, it was making me blush.


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## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Mauricio it was just you!
Laugh.


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## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Mochoa - I agree with Mads, its just you my friend. I thought it was a good idea that the seller had to wrap the brace in pipe insultation. Good protection.


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## mochoa

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


hahahaha


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## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


The tool gods smiled on me this morning. I got out for a short hunt and saw an antique street fair. The tool selection was pretty dissapointing. Most of the booths had decroative foo foo stuff in them, but I did find a Millers Falls #34 with two 1911 patent dates on it. It is built like a tank and it is a 6" sweep brace. I can cross that off my list.


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## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Congratulations Wayne. Glad you finally found one. Love to see some pictures when you have a moment. The No. 34 is a beautiful brace. Does it look like this one?


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## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Yes it does. Not as shiney and pretty….


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## lysdexic

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


I am now the proud owner of a 10" Yankee 2100. The nickle plating is in very good but not perfect. I know that in your video you told Glen that when the plating is bad then the options are limited or nil. For those few areas on an otherwise excellent plating what would yo recommend?

Leave as is (my guess)?
Spot polishing with an abrasive?

I searched for the green rust removal gel months ago. I even emailed the company but you can't get it in the US.

Thanks for your help.


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## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Glad it arrived safely Scott. I think the answer is to leave it as is, but could you post some clear photos of it so that we can see what it is like? I might have a suggestion or two.


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## Stonej

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


I was wondering if you could help me. I have a Stanley 945 - 10 IN which belonged to my grandfather. I have, for decades, foolishly neglected it and allowed it to get very rusty (even worse that you're Rusty I'm afraid) but I would now like to restore and use it.

I've brushed off the worst of the rust and I think it will clean up OK. The problem I have is that I can't persuade the ratchet selector to move. It's in the centre position. I've soaked it in Plus-gas and tried to move it in the vice, but without success. Is there something I'm missing (I've never used a brace before so might be doing something wrong). Something I should pull or push whilst turning? If it is seized up, is there anything I can do about it?

Thanks in advance for any advice.


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## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Andy has not been on much lately. Hopefully he will see this and pick it up. The ratchet selector ring should just turn back and forth. There is a metal pawl or part that should move side to side and probably click once as your move it. It may be frozen. I'm referring to what is shown in the image below as a small rectangle next to the ratchet selector.










Image from: http://bobswriting.com/mudsmith/woodsamp.html


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## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 6 - What to Look for when Buying a Secondhand Brace and more*
> 
> I thought I'd mix it up a bit in this part of the blog and record a video where I:
> 
> 
> Discuss what to look for when you pick up a secondhand brace and consider buying it.
> Mention variations in design and size and why you would use one size over another.
> Address *Racerglen's* question on restoring plated braces.
> Answer *lysdexic's* question as to why the Yankee 2100 represents the pinnacle of brace development.
> 
> YouTube only allows uploads up to 15 minutes in length (which I never knew at the time of recording), so I had to break it into two separate videos. At great expense (not), I recorded it in *HD*. So, if your PC is able to cope with high definition playback, follow these three steps for the best viewing experience:
> 
> 1. Click Play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Click on *360p* and select *720p HD*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Switch to fullscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now on with the show!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link to Sydnassloot.com that I mentioned in the video. Well worth checking out.
> 
> Also, if you are interested in seeing what goes on inside that wonderful Yankee 2100 ratchet, check out the sectional views on Georgesbasement.com.


Hi StoneJ,

There isn't much to the ratchet selector on the 945. It is possible that one or both of the compression springs under the two pawls have either broken or become unseated, or something like a wood chip has got in underneath one of the pawls and is stopping it from moving. Please take a look at Part 5 of this blog series. If you look about half way down that post, I show the type of selector that you have and take one apart to fix it. See if that helps. If not, please post a photo of the condition of you brace showing the selector.


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## Brit

*Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*

I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.

Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.










You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.

Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:

• The Tapered Lead Screw
• The Spurs
• The Cutting Edges










*The Tapered Lead Screw*
Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.

Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.

So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.

*The Spurs*
As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.

*The Cutting Edges*
The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.










The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.

*Sharpening*
For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.










To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here. 










After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.

Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.










The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.










However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.










In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.










Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.










Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.






That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:

1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.

In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.

Thanks for reading.


----------



## dakremer

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Wow - I was really impressed with how quickly (and seemingly easy) that bit drilled that hole through that junk of wood. I really need to get back on track with this restoration! My school trimester has 2 more weeks left, then I get 10 days off. I will be finishing it during that time! Another great blog, with great explanations! Thanks a lot for all your hard work! If mine comes out HALF as nice as yours, I will be proud


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Nice job. Any tips on chasing the feed point?


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


*TopamaxSurvivor* - Not sure what you mean by chasing the feed point. Do you mean how do you drill exactly on your mark, or do you mean what do you do if the lead screw point is off center? I'm just off to work now, but if you can clarify what you mean I'll reply later today.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Sharpening the self feed screw. I have worked on some with a tri-file, but they are difficult to do when they get bad. Of course I'm hittiing 16d nails ;-((


----------



## Cobwobbler

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Just the info I need to sharpen my Dad's old bits from the 50's, thanks a bundle.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


great blog Andy 
just an exstra note if the bit don´t go thrugh the wood its usualy not the lead that is dull or broken 
its becourse the bit itself needs to be sharpened since a dull bit overcome the force of the leading screw
and by then rip the tread the leading screw has made and when that happen … it stop boring 
and for those that not knowing it …. you just bore until the center of leading screw is getting thrugh 
then you do it from the other side to get a clean hole without splintering on the back

take care
Dennis


----------



## nobuckle

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Sweet! Thanks for posting this Andy. I wasn't real sure how I should sharpen my bits, but with your insight I feel much more confident to do so.


----------



## saddletramp

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


A great tutorial Andy. In the past I've tossed a couple of bits that I had bought in a group that had obviously been "resharpened" wrong, i.e. they were not sharpened on the bevel. Even though they appeared to be sharp, they didn't cut/drill worth a hoot. Is there any way to save them (I had tried to reestablish the bevel and proper angle of cut but they still wouldn't work)?


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


*dakremer* - Thanks Doug, glad you're finding it useful.
*Topamax* - I don't know of any other method other than trying to restore it by filing it. Sounds like you need to get a Greenlee nail eater a replacable.

*Cobwobbler* - Bring 'em back to life. 

*Dennisgrosen* - Very true Dennis.

*nobuckle* - Its real easy so go for it.

*saddletramp* - Sometimes you've just got to let them go if you can't rectify incorrect filing. I don't know of any other way other than trying to file the edge back to how it should be. If someone has filed the outside of the spurs, you can sometime lightly hammer the metal back out to the correct diameter with a ball pein hammer, but it is a bit hit and miss.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


I think they are Greenlee, but before the tips were replaceable. I just thought you might have a better trick up you sleeve ;-)


----------



## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Thanks Andy. Very timely. I just picked up about 20 bits over the weekend. Just dropped em in some evapo rust.

Was actually a pretty good drill hunting weekend. I got a wonderful Miller Falls #2. Great shape, nice patina and came with its bits. All for a whopping $3.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


that´s a score Wayne … congrat´s 

Dennis


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


$3? You should have tried to beat him down Wayne. LOL


----------



## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


LOL - I had been looking for one for quite a while. Not willing to pay the $80 to $125 on ebay for one.


----------



## WayneC

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Oh and I also added a pointing and tennon bit for my braces. Going to play around with them some.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


picture´s wayne … 
the tennon bit what´s that

Dennis


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


My MF #2 is still in the restore pile, but it is perfectly usable and I was amazed when I used it on a project a little while ago at how fast it worked. I'm looking forward to restoring it next year after I get done with a load of saws.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Andy, as always a useful and precise blog, thank you.
Next time sing us a tune as you drill. Even I was a little jealous to heart how wonderfully quiet there are around your new home.
I have a drawer full of bits, all kinds all times all shapes, so you will be really welcome here… I have given up fixing them all, so I keep a file in the tool tote and file them up when needed. 
In Hooks book about sharpening there are a really good chapter of bits also.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Thanks Mads. I was going to give everyone a blast of Nessun Dorma, but I thought it was important that people heard the sound of a file cutting.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


This could be a idea for the setup:




I can easy imagine her replaced by you with a haddrill.
Big smilem
Mads


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Mads - That would be a fine platform for my old workmate.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Laugh big time.
Thank you.


----------



## dbray45

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Thanks Andy, I think I may have that file, and I do have the bits


----------



## mochoa

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Hi Andy, My 4yr old son likes to go into the shop and just make wholes in scrap and I think the bits have been cutting slower than it should. So, I just bought my fist auger file to sharpen my old bits.

Obvioulsy one side of the file has serations on the face but not the edges and I get that, but what is the other side for? The other side of the file has no serations on the face but it does on the edges?

Thanks for posting this great resourse!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


It is just for sharpening the bevel on smaller auger bit where there isn't enough room for the wider face of the file. There's a photo of me doing just that above right before the photo of the needle file.


----------



## mochoa

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Got it, Thanks Andy.


----------



## wormil

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Great resource, I need to tune up a set of old Irwins I bought at auction.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Thanks Rick. Glad you found it useful.


----------



## planepassion

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Hey Andy. In the spirit of sharpening, would you please show me how to sharpen a brace countersink bit? I find decent ones from time to time but they are in need of a fresh edge.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Brad - Since buying one of the Beal countersinks a couple of years ago, that is all I ever use. I don't think I own one of the square tapered brace countersinks, so I'm afraid I can't offer any advise on how to sharpen it. Maybe someone else can help.


----------



## mochoa

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


I have a bunch of extra bits of various sizes. If anyone is missing something PM me and I'll see if I have it. If I do I'll send it to you.


----------



## wormil

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


I'm missing #6 and #15 Irwins. PM sent.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Brad :
if you have acces to the book "Handtools their ways and working " 
written by Aldren A. Watson
then you will find the solution on side 368 and 369 that showing how to deal
with reamers and countersinks

sorry I don´t have acces to my usual PC since it has cashed so I can´t scan the picture to you
maybee there is others that have the book and make a copy to you

take care
Dennis


----------



## planepassion

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


Thank you Dennis, that's the ticket! It says to use oilstones versus files to sharpen countersinks because the steel is so hard.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


 you can use waterstones and fine daimond stone as well 
I have read another book thay talked about a wooden stick formed to the grooves 
basicly flat  but thin and with a piece of leather with honing compound 
but I gess thats for rare times 
what you should pay attention on was the drawing of the jiig and how it is atatch to a wice 
so the part of the countersink you want to hone 
is upwarts so nothing is interfearing with sharpening and make it easyer to do the job 
at the same angle everytime

good luck 
Dennis


----------



## theoldfart

Brit said:


> *Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit*
> 
> I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I've taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the 'Using a Hand Brace' part isn't finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn't much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn't sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly.
> 
> Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers kept improving their designs and building on previous patents. For this reason, a variety of different designs come up on the secondhand market. At the height of their evolution, there were two types of auger bit that were widely available. They were the Irwin Patent bit and the Jennings Patent bit. Both of these types cut in the same way and and both are sharpened the same way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can tell them apart because the Irwin patent bit has a solid metal core running through the business end of the bit into the shank making it very strong in use. The Jennings Patent bit looks like someone took a flat piece of steel and just twisted it. It doesn't have a solid core and is not as strong where it joins the shank.
> 
> Assuming an auger bit isn't bent or heavily pitted, there are three things that determine how well it will drill a hole. They are:
> 
> • The Tapered Lead Screw
> • The Spurs
> • The Cutting Edges
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Tapered Lead Screw*
> Unlike twist, lip and spur, Forstner or sawtooth bits, the speed that an auger bit can drill is not determined by the amount of pressure you apply. The speed is governed by the pitch of the thread in the lead screw. Manufacturers made auger bits with coarse, medium and fine pitch lead screws to suit different trades. If drilling a hole with a fine finish was a priority, they used a fine pitch auger bit and if speed was a priority, they used an auger bit with a coarse pitch thread.
> 
> Whatever the pitch, the threads need to be in good shape, so if they are packed with saw dust try brushing them with an old toothbrush. Gripping the shank in a vice and cleaning the thread with dental floss is also effective.
> 
> So just to reiterate, the job of the Lead Screw is to engage the wood and pull the auger bit through the work, keeping it centered in the process.
> 
> *The Spurs*
> As the screw enters the wood, the two spurs score the outside diameter of the hole severing the fibers and preparing the way for the cutting edges to slice the waste. They need to be sharp in order to produce a clean entry and exit hole. Under no circumstances should you file the outside surface of the spurs, only the inside surface. If you do, you will decrease the diameter of the circle that they scribe and the rest of the auger bit will have trouble fitting through the hole and start to bind.
> 
> *The Cutting Edges*
> The two Cutting Edges pare away the wood as the bit rotates into the wood. It is important not to change the cutting geometry of the edges. Therefore, you should only ever file the beveled side of the cutting edge and take care to maintain the original angle of the bevel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The helical flutes of the auger bit carry the waste efficiently to the surface. However, when drilling deeper than about 2" (50mm), it is better if you back the auger bit out and clear out any chips in the hole before continuing to drill deeper.
> 
> *Sharpening*
> For all but the smallest auger bits, the best tool for the job is an Auger file. An Auger file is double ended and both ends are tapered. One end has teeth on the flats and none on the edges and the other end has teeth on the edges and not on the flats.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To use it, hold the auger bit as shown below so that the tapered lead screw digs into a piece of wood or MDF. File the bevels on the cutting edges first. Position the file on the bevel angle and push. It only takes about five or six strokes to restore the edge and for all you hand plane lovers, there's no need for a micro-bevel here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After sharpening the first bevel, rotate the auger bit 180 degrees and sharpen the other bevel with the same number of strokes.
> 
> Next, sharpen the inside surface of the spurs. Again, it only takes five or six stroke on each spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The auger file will sharpen the bevel on the cutting edges of smaller auger bits too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, you may find that there isn't enough room between the lead screw and the inside face of the spur for the auger file to get deep enough. You can see what I mean in the following photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this case, I use a flat needle file which has one safe edge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice how the needle file goes right to the bottom of the inside face of the spur.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpening an auger bit is quick and easy and anyone can do it. The following video is in real time and shows how little time it takes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's all there is to sharpening an auger bit. Just remember these few principles:
> 
> 1. Ensure the lead screw thread is clean.
> 2. Maintain the cutting geometry.
> 3. Take the same number of strokes on each cutting edge and each spur.
> 4. Take as few strokes as possible to extend the life of the auger bit.
> 
> In the final part of this series, I'll focus on how to drill efficiently and give you some tips on improving accuracy when you need to drill deep holes.
> 
> Thanks for reading.


*Andy* And I thought you wrier the saw guy, my bad! I will be memorizing this over the next few weeks. Thanks


----------



## Brit

*Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*

Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.

I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.






*NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*

A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.










The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.










*HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*

When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!










There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.










Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.










You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.

The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.










This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.










*DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*

There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.










*Using squares*
Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.










*Ye olde ring trick*
It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.






My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.

I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.










Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.










I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.










My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.

*Using reflection*
The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:

Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.










If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.










My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.

*Drilling at an angle*
Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.










At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.

*Drilling a blind hole to depth*
When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.










I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.



















I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.










The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it. 

To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.










Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.

Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.

Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.










Thanks for watching.

<< Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube: 



 >>


----------



## PurpLev

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


those braces look so good. do you find that you get to use all sizes? or do you notice you end up using a particular brace mostly?


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


*PurpLev* - Yes I do use all the sizes. Its funny, because my interest in hand braces coincided with both of the batteries on my codless Dewalt drills not holding their charge any longer. I keep forgeting to order new ones, instead I just reach for a brace or a hand drill. The smaller braces (6" sweep) are dedicated to driving screws and bolts and countersinking. The 8" sweep is used for drilling smaller holes up to 3/8". The 10" sweep drills from 3/8" to around 5/8" and the 12" sweep handles anything bigger.


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


I still have my cordless for farm work, but when the batteries dies I doubt I will replace it.

This was an amazing entry.


----------



## llwynog

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


thanks a lot Andy, great info. I recently discovered how accurately one can drill with a hand brace and was quite surprised about it. I found out that I can drill in a much more perpendicular way to the surface with a handbrace than with a (handheld) electrical drill.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


*RGtools* - Thanks. I think cordless drills have their place and I'd hate to be without one for too long, but they're nowhere near as much fun.

*llwynog* - I couldn't agree more.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Andy, I tried two times now to send you and get the mails back… Otherwise I will upload them to my site and send you a link so you can download them.
I love that photo of you in the Lotus position, it suits you better than the first one where you are sleeping up against the brace… I must admit that brace is sexy! Seriously sexy.
Thank you for this wonderful blog series it has been a pleasure to follow.
Best thoughts, will I see you tomorrow by chance?
Mads


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Just updated the post to include two photos of the Eclipse depth stop fitted to an auger bit straight from the Vintage architect himself. 

*Mads* - I used to be able to put my legs in the Lotus position. When I tried it for the photo, I didn't even get close before screaming in agony. LOL.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


I work Japanese these days (as always trying new), sitting on the floor on a pillow, so to watch you was really natural.
But I must admit I am sour in all the joints of my body since I am not used to using my body so much as the Japanese woodworkers do, they are so less loocked than us, we work much more static so it is not just a tool change to work with the Japanese tools, also a mental change, but I hope to become more of a rubber man with training.
I will remember to look for a Eclipse for you.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Mads


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


*Mads* - I just found an eclipse depth stop on eBay and ordered it.  
I'm laughing at thought of you sitting on your pillow with your shoes and jacket. You'll have to give me a demo next time I visit. I think I'll stick to the western way of working though. LOL


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Here's the Stanley No. 49 depth stop.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Thats sexy!
(Not me the Stanley 49).


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


thank´s Andy … great blog 
the ring thing theory isn´t as bad as you think … not that I ever will use it though … lol
but it works by looking at the way it walks op and down on the shaft … and by that you can see 
if you stay level enoff …sideways … well …you use your inner spirit to see if the angle is 90 degree 
so you have to use the lotus sitting before you atack the object with the brace ….. lol

using a mirror is a great tip I have used alot with electric drills 

I like the depthstops too but don´t have one … so I gess I have to learn the Roy Underhill methode 
know how deep my bits bore for every turn on the brace and learn how to count …. or get me 
an old batteryfree chineese computer to help me ….. LOL

take care
Dennis


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


*Dennis* - I know that's how the ring trick is meant to work. In that little video, I was purposely moving the brace out of horizontal to encourage the ring to move. The problem I have with it is that I didn't feel it improved my accuracy at all. You would have to be a pretty sloppy craftsman to get any benefit from it IMO.

Thanks for reminding me about counting the number of turns. I was going to talk about that and it completely slipped my mind. Let me briefly mention it here. Since the feed rate of an auger bit is controlled by the pitch of the lead screw, you can count the number of turns it takes you to drill your first hole. When you have reached your depth, you can drill successive holes to the same depth simply by turning the sweep handle the same number of turns.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


I think you was talking breafly about it in some of the others where you mention 
different steapness on the screws it was the one said there was made bits for timber work
and fine work not sure at the moment

about the walking theory I have only seen it work in one situation and thats when you adjust the sandpaper
on a band sander (hope that was the right name )

take care
Dennis


----------



## PurpLev

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Thanks Andy. I basically ended up using a brace when my cordless drill died and luckily had an old brace laying around. I was just contemplating whether I needed both sizes (I have 1×10" and 2 8" sweeps) and based on your response I guess I will.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


*PurpLev* - A 10" sweep brace is a good all round size to have, but I have to say that if you are boring holes 3/4" or larger in hard wood, a 12" or 14" makes all the difference.


----------



## dakremer

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Brit - this is by far the best blog I've seen on LJs to date! And I'm not just saying that. It is truly unbelievable! Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. You are a connoisseur of hand braces.

Of course, I'll be taking all the credit, since I forced you to do this  haha

I will be referring back to this MANY times once I get back on track with my hand brace!!

Hope all is well - take care!


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Great blog Andy. The cd trick was new for me.

There is an interesting article in shop notes this month about using hand drills. It actually gave me an idea. I've had a countersink bit in a brace for a while. It might be better in a egg beater.

You can't take away my cordless yet, but I find the more i work with hand tools, and get them setup, the less I use the power. The nice thing is you can pick braces up for $2 or $3, so you can have them all set up with different frequently used bits so its just "grab and go".


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


The 49 is an awesome tool. They seem to be rare and expensive these days (perplexes the heck out of me)

I forgot to say the first time I love the thing about inserting the bit. I don't know why I never though to let gravity help me out.

And the lotus picture was great.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


*dakremer* - Thanks for the compliment. I really enjoyed doing it. I just wish I had more time to do more blogging. I think there is immense value in blogging something like this and getting the opinions and input of fellow woodworkers around the world. I've learnt a lot in the process.

*Don W* - Thanks Don. I'm not giving up my cordless either even though the batteries barely hold a charge anymore. They have their uses. Having a number of braces each dedicated to a certain task is where I'm heading.

*RGtools *- 49s do seem to sell for a ridiculous price considering what they are. I've bought one of the Eclipse depth stops so I'll see how that works out, but I might end up designing and making my own version of a stop. I've got a few ideas. Regarding letting gravity assist when installing an auger bit, just make sure it can't fall out the chuck. I would imagine the pointed lead screw on an auger could mess up your foot pretty bad if it wanted to.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Andy you were missed last night here in Copenhagen, we had to drink the wine alone…
Hope that you get the job done.
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


*Mads* and *Dennis* - I was pig sick I couldn't make it, but a deadline is a deadline and I couldn't let the client down. I hope I get another opportunity to meet Dennis before I finish up in Denmark.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


;-)_o~~

Forgot to smoke!


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Grrrrrr ….. I was realy upset you didn´t got the chance to see the one of a kind clown himself 
last night …......... lol
sorry you have to be overloaded with work like that ….but you were missed 
I just got home 10 minuts ago from Mads ….........7½ earlyer I walked out the door from Mads 
as usual like a late ligtning becourse we nearly forgot the time 

maybee we get another oppetunity to meet in the future 
take care and don´t be stressed at your work

Dennis


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Auger in toe crossed my mind, but what really made me cautious was the concrete floor.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


If you've got deep pockets, they don't come much better than this.


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


that's a pretty deep pocket needed.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


My legs aren't long enough to have pockets that deep Don.


----------



## donwilwol

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


I have to admin, I had to go back for one more look. Bright shiny objects tend to distract me.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Nasty!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Just came across some illustrations of the Millers Falls depth gauges in an old Buck and Hickman catalogue so I figured I'd post them for completeness since we covered the Eclipse and Stanley versions.

Millers Falls No.1










Millers Falls No.2 (same as No.1, but had a ball bearing on the end to prevent marring the workpiece.)










Millers Falls No.36 (work on the same principle as the Stanley No. 49)


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


We could easy make some that looks like the top once. evn they look funny.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


I don't think any of them would present too much of a challenge Mads.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Laugh.
No but they might be informative, and really useful.
Ohh yes and just simply fun to make.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Knowing you Mads, you've probably already made them while we've been talking. LOL.

Regarding the No.1 and No.2, you could probably buy a suitable brass hinge, knock the pin out and replace it with the depth rod. Bend the leaves to go around the shank of the auger, drill through both leaves and fit a bolt with a wing nut. Just a thought.


----------



## SamuelP

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


I have read through this series. Thank you by the way. I can see the great time and effort you have given to all of us. But I have one question.

How do you store your auger bits? A box, a tool roll, a hanging cabinet next to your brace?


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


*sprevratil* - At the moment my auger bits are stored in two tool rolls. Eventually when I get around to it, I will build a little wall-mounted cabinet/box to house the bits I am most likely to use and that will be sighted next to my braces.

Any of the options you suggest are fine as long as you don't just store them loose in a drawer so they all bang together. Once they've all been sharpened, they should be treated like a sharp chisel/plane iron. Keep them separated and protect the cutting edges, spurs and lead screws from damage.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>












Andy this blog is for you:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/26269


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Note to self: Challenge Mads more often.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Thank you Mads, you're a genius. Great fun.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


;-) a child.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


If anyone in the US is looking for a good 12" sweep brace, you might be interested in this one. Auction ends at Nov 06, 201117:10:09 PST.










Here's the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/STANLEY-12-INCH-SWING-BELL-SYSTEM-BIT-BRACE-HAND-DRILL-USE-DISPLAY-/290625521922?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43aaa18902

*FYI*: I am not associated with the seller in any way whatsoever, just thought I'd point it out as good 12" braces don't come up that often.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260883734091?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Might be a Andy…


----------



## Bertha

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Dammit, now I must have a 49. The fact that I've never seen one makes me worried that they are rare, lol.
My plan is to WILL one to me!


----------



## RGtools

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Al, there is one at an antique store near me for 37. let me know if you want me to grab it.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Al - Just make one and call it a 49 1/2. Alternatively, use a bulldog clip.


----------



## Bertha

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Thanks for the offer, RG, but I'm saving up my pennies. I've got two planes I've already promised to purchase and I'm saving up for either a DR brush trimmer or a Gravely. Damn lawn machines; you can buy a lot of antique tools for the price of a good brush hog.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


*Mads* - I'm not buying any more braces, except the elusive wooden one that I want to own purely to take down and caress every now and then. Apart from that, I have my quota and I'm moving on to saws. This will be the winter of saw restoration.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


I think I have to follow you on that one.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Mads, I think I'll be following you my friend. Actually, I have everything I need now. I just need to tidy the mess in my workshop so that I have some space to build the saw vise and get cracking on the sharpening.

I was cleaning the blade on Big Joe today and my arms are killing me.


----------



## mafe

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Your arms? Do not tell me you start to follow me there please!
You have probably been surfung too much on the web…
I have so many little projects now that need to be finished, some planes almost build, some tools almost restored and right now I am finishing up not one but nine knifes!
(It is a on going project that has been around for too long).
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## hhhopks

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Wow!
What a great blog! I am a new comer. 
I am ready take one of mine apart for rehab.
As far as cleaning the rust off, I am taking the electrolyssis route to save some $.

Which method do you take to replace/repair broken handle?

1. Re-glue existing handle and hope for the best.
2. Glue 2 half blanks & turn a new handle. Split apart and reglue on the brace.
3. Alternatives?


> ?


???


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


*hhhopks* - Thanks for reading my blog, glad you enjoyed it. Regarding my approach to the sweep handle, I've never had to repair or replace the wood on any of the braces I've bought or inherited. However, I think it would depend on the make of brace, my ability to affect a repair or a make a replacement, and whether I could find any wood of the right species to make it look convincing. If you could post a picture of the brace in question with a close up of the problem you've got with the sweep handle, it would be easier to offer the proper advice.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Guys - If you enjoyed this blog series, you HAVE to check out Brad's series as well. Fantastic writer and a great tool restorer.


----------



## chrisstef

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Andy, im finally getting around to going through your blog here. As always i cant thank you enough for all the insight, tips, and English vernacular i am so unfamiliar with 

I thought i would share with you my first venture into the world of the humble hand brace. I just picked up this fine set of bits and a brace to get my juices going. Im now most definately in the market for an auger file and yoga pants so i can contort my body into your zen pose shown above.

Here's the score of the day: Russell Jennings 100 spur auger bits, all 13 pieces, in original box. Unknown to me, manufactured right here in Connecticut.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


They are gorgeous bro.

This side of the pond, a set like that with the label intact would cost some major dosh.

Enjoy!


----------



## chrisstef

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Andy, im going to request, that in the coming weeks, you trim back your work schedule and send me your mobile email address. Im gonna have some questions


----------



## 33706

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>





















Here's my collection! *Chrisstef*: Wow, that is a great find on those bits & case! * Brit: * Thanks for this series! It's a shame that most of my drilling needs are less than 1/4" inch; I'd be using my bits and braces almost exclusively. Do you intend to cover hand-drills, you know, the egg-beater variety of drills? Or will that be a separate blog? Excellent series, thanks for posting!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


*Chrisstef* - Happy to help with any questions. It is best to PM me through Lumberjocks in the first instance or ask any questions on this thread. I'm happy to send you my email address, but I get upwards of 500 emails a day and it is easy for things to get lost in the crowd. All of my LJ notifications get directed to a separate email bucket, which I go through at my leisure so I don't miss anything.

Nice collection *Poopiekat*. I've never seen a joist brace with a cut-away head for working close to a joist. That's a good idea.

Regarding egg-beaters, I have a couple that are awaiting restoration and will probably blog about them when the time comes. No idea when that will be yet though. When I do, I'll make sure I do a post on using egg-beaters too. Thanks for stopping by.


----------



## 33706

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Thanks, Andy!
That joist brace is a 'Miller's Falls' No. 737. It is mint, and I bought it at a church rummage sale for $2. I'll be watching for your egg-beaters blog, there's lots of interest in them! especially identifying ones that have lost their label or decal.


----------



## chrisstef

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Im was just messin with ya Andy, but if i need somethin ill connect with you through a PM, much appreciated.

PK - slick collection there. I love the joist brace, ya know i saw one exactly the same yesterday hwile i was picking up the set. First time i ever saw one, and now another. Cool stuff.

I just ordered an auger bit file and as suggested by some LJ's ill give my sharpening a test run on some older randoms before filing the good stuff. Your info is gold Brit. Hopefully ole steady hands here can pull it off with half the grace you have.


----------



## chrisstef

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>




















Here's to you Andy. 1" hole in reclaimed oak. Ohh yea. 
Stupid sideways picture.


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


For those of you who don't want to strain your neck looking at Chrisstef's photos, you can press *Ctrl+Alt+right arrow key*. When you've finished looking, press *Ctrl+Alt+up arrow key*.

Looking good bro. Try drilling them holes in oak with your cordless. :~)


----------



## chrisstef

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


It went through 3 1/2" of oak with rather little effort id like to report. Lil miss dewalt sat on the shelf mighty jealous


----------



## Cantputjamontoast

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Thanks Brit!!!!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


My pleasure .


----------



## ejvc

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Thanks for this, just what I was looking for!


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


You're welcome.


----------



## HansiD

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


Hi Brit,
I'm from Germany and have a question to you
Can you tell me the difference between a No 73 and a No. 945 Stanley brace?

The work and declaration you do is fantastic.

Thank you


----------



## joez

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


any bits for hard maple I can use?


----------



## Brit

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
> 
> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
> 
> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
> 
> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
> 
> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
> 
> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
> 
> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
> 
> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
> 
> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you deviate, the reflection will bend away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
> 
> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
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> Thanks for watching.
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> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
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> >>


I just use normal auger bits in hard maple. I found that what works best is not to go too fast. Make a couple of revolutions and then turn it 1/2 revolution in reverse to break the chip.


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## RWE

Brit said:


> *Part 8 - Tips and Tricks on Using a Hand Brace*
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to post the final part to this blog series. Life just gets in the way sometimes. However, here it is and I hope you enjoy it. In this episode I wanted to look at using a hand brace and explore some of the so called hints and tips out there to see if they really are useful. I'll also show you how to get in touch with your inner level.
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> I'm assuming you've sharpened your auger bits like I showed you in the last episode. A sharp auger bit is paramount for drilling a clean hole, however just because your bit is sharp it doesn't necessarily follow that you will get good results. So first things first, let's insert the auger into the chuck. Sounds simple doesn't it? You can actually damage the spring in the chuck if you don't do it properly, so in this short video, I show you how to insert an auger bit correctly.
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> *NOW LET'S GET COMFORTABLE*
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> A good stance is important when using any hand tool and the brace is no exception. When drilling vertically, stand with your feet apart facing your work. If you can, position the work piece so that the Head of the brace is about chin-height. Lean forward slightly and rest your forehead on the back of the hand holding the Head of the brace. Why? Well as you know the auger bit has two cutting edges located opposite each other. As the auger bit rotates, both edges are either cutting with the grain or across the grain. Since it requires more effort on your part to slice across the grain, it gets easier, then harder, then easier then harder with each revolution. This makes it difficult to keep the Head of the brace steady unless you brace it against a part of your body.
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> The same principle applies when you're drilling horizontally. Use whatever part of your body is comfortable to steady the Head of the brace. I find the most useful parts are the hip, belly, chest, shoulder and forehead. Also, notice the position of my feet. I am leaning slightly forward so that as the auger advances in the hole, I can take up the slack by moving my hip forward whilst still keeping the Head locked against it.
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> *HOW TO DRILL A CLEAN HOLE*
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> When you're drilling a through hole, as soon as the thread has exited the other side of the work piece, there is no longer anything pulling the cutters into the hole. The tendency is to compensate by pushing harder in order to cut through that last little bit and before you can stop it, the auger exits the hole at a fast rate of knots and this happens. ARGHHH!!!!!!!
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> There are two ways to deal with this tear out and they both have their merits. Firstly, start drilling from the face side and periodically, feel on the backside for when the thread just starts to exit.
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> Remove the auger bit and turn the work piece over, then pick up the exit hole and finish the hole from the other side.
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> You still face the problem of having to push when the thread has nothing left to bite into and on thin stock like this, there is a danger that the spurs will catch the face side and split the wood on the surface. It is fine to use this method on stock that is over 1" though, as you have enough time to arrest the movement.
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> The second method for preventing tear out, and the one I like to use whenever possible, is to position a piece of scrap under the work piece and clamp them both securely to the bench. Then drill straight through from the face side. If drilling through dark wood, use a light coloured wood as the scrap piece. You know you're through when you see different coloured chips being ejected. It is also useful if you are drilling through hard wood, to use soft wood as the scrap piece. The brace will suddenly become easier to turn when you start drilling into the softwood, giving yet another indication that you are through the other side.
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> This method produces a clean exit hole even in this dry Sapele with its interlocking grain.
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> *DRILLING VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL HOLES ACCURATELY*
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> There are a number of different tips related to accurate boring that surface from time to time. Before we look at them to see if they work, there is one tip that you should always utilize which relates to starting the hole. Just to recap, you've got a sharp auger, you've decided which of the above drilling methods to use and you've taken up a good stance. Use an awl to mark the center of your hole, then locate the thread on you mark. Start drilling slowly and look to see that both of the spurs start scoring the wood. This is a good indication that you are relatively vertical or horizontal. If one spur starts scoring before the other one, adjust your angle of attack accordingly.
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> *Using squares*
> Many people use two squares to ensure they are drilling vertically. To do this, set the squares at 90 degrees to each other and before you drill any further ensure the auger is parallel to both squares. Adjust your angle if necessary before your continue drilling. I give this method the thumbs up, but it is not easy to do this when drilling horizontally unless you can clamp your squares to the work piece.
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> *Ye olde ring trick*
> It is said that when drilling horizontally, old timers would slide their wedding ring onto the shaft of the auger before inserting it into the chuck. They would then use it to indicate whether or not they were drilling horizontally. If you can't visualize this, the following short video will demonstrate this theory. As you watch this, consider whether my wedding ring is helping me or just distracting me.
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> My verdict: I wish I could say this romantic theory worked, but honestly I think its rubbish, so I have to give it the thumbs down. If you agree that this technique is pants, let me tell you that it is an even worse aid to drilling vertically.  There's also the ever present danger of losing your ring and having to answer to SWMBO.
> However I'm not one to dismiss the work practices of old timers lightly, so I thought it was worth a little experiment to see if I could improve the accuracy of this technique.
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> I squared up an off-cut of hard maple 180mm long, drilled a hole through it and ripped it down the middle lengthways. Then I fashioned a large washer with a file, rebated it into the middle of the two halves and glued them back together. This washer meant that there would be two fulcrum points resting on the auger shaft.
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> Then I drilled out the top to receive a bullseye level and centered it in the hole with epoxy.
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> I laid a straight metal rod on my granite breakfast bar (a known flat surface) with about 3" hanging over the edge and then suspended my new aid from the bar to see if the bubble in the level centered correctly. It was slightly off but a couple of swipes with a No. 4 ½ on one side brought it back to level. With a spring in my step, I rushed outside to try it out.
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> My verdict: Undoubtedly better than the wedding ring, but too sensitive. I was going dizzy trying to watch the little bubble go anywhere except inside the center circle. Shame really. :-( I was going to call it a Bull's Eye Bob, as it was a cross between a bull's eye level and a plumb bob. I was even going to enter it in the Scrap01 challenge, but if you remove the 01 from the challenge name, you get what this tool is now. Oh well, nothing ventured….etc.
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> *Using reflection*
> The use of reflection is a wonderful aid to the hand tool woodworker. I use the reflection of the work piece in my saw plate all the time to ensure that I am sawing perpendicular and vertical. Often I don't even bother marking a line to follow, because a reflection in flat surface can't be wrong. So you could say, I had high expectations of this technique. Here's how it works:
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> Get yourself an old CD or DVD and tape it down to you work piece (you might have to enlarge the center hole a bit) When you are drilling vertically or horizontally, the reflection will continue in a straight line.
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> My verdict: This works a treat and by looking at the reflection from different viewpoints you can ensure you are spot on.
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> *Drilling at an angle*
> Using Jennings Pattern or Irwin Pattern auger bit, with care you can also drill at an angle, at least up to about 30 degrees. It is best to engage the thread perpendicular to the work piece and as you turn the sweep handle, move the Head until you are at your angle. It is important to do this whilst turning or you risk bending the thread. You can then use a sliding bevel gauge to check your angle.
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> At the end of this episode, I've posted a link to Episode 19 of a blog series that master chair maker Curtis Buchanan has recorded on YouTube. This episode shows how Chris uses a hand brace to drill at an angle for the legs of a chair. Believe me, this series is THE BEST THING ON YOUTUBE. If you love hand tools, do yourself a favor and watch the whole series. I think he is up to episode 31 now.
> 
> *Drilling a blind hole to depth*
> When measuring for depth on an auger bit, you need to measure up from the cutting edge, not the tip of the thread or the tip of the spurs. Over the years manufacturers have patented a number of devices that clamp to an auger bit and act as a depth stop. Millers Falls made one I think, Stanley made one that used a spring and Eclipse made this one.
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> I don't own any of these, but I know Mads has the Eclipse version, so these two photos are courtesy of Mads. Thanks Mads.
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> I believe the the Eclipse depth stop fits auger bits up to 3/4". At the moment though, I just wrap masking tape around the auger bit.
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> The only problem with using masking tape is that you need to constantly clear the chips away as the tape approaches the surface of the work piece, otherwise they can rip the tape or cause it to move up. A permanent marker would probably be better. If you see an Eclipse depth stop, buy it and get one for me while you're at it.
> 
> To sum up, whilst some of these tips and tricks do work at least in part, I'm not sure they are really necessary. The good news is that the human body has a remarkable ability to see and even feel when something is vertical or horizontal and whether something is square. The problem is that we don't use this inbuilt ability enough and are too quick to reach for the laser level. So take a moment to reconnect with your inner level.
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> Feel better? Good! Now grab a hunk of softwood about 3"x3" and practice boring. How many of you were satisfied with your first dovetails or any other joint come to that? Accurate drilling, like any other hand tool technique requires practice and therein lies its appeal. There would be no challenge, no sense of achievement if everything worked first time.
> 
> Mark the center points for a number of holes. Follow those marks around to the back side of the work piece and mark them there also. Start drilling and sense vertical or horizontal. Stop when the thread just exits and see where you are in relation to your mark. If you are off, correct it on the next attempt.
> 
> Well that just about wraps this blog series up. Who would have thought that there was so much to say about the humble hand brace and we've barely scratched the surface. I've really enjoyed writing this blog and I've learnt a hell of a lot along the way. It only remains for me to thank all of you for your support. I hope you've found it informative and entertaining. At the very least, I hope I've convinced you that this simple tool deserves your respect and a place in your shop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Thanks for watching.
> 
> << Link to Episode 19 of Curtis Buchanan's Chair blog on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> >>


First time to post here. I am on Saws, Handplanes and Mitre boxes a good bit. Came home today with a box of drill bits and other items. I am thinking that some of the stuff from an estate sale (stuff that did not sell and was in woodshop bench drawers) is late 1800's/early 1900's. I was seeing if any folks here can help me understand what I got today, as far as the correct term and period for the items.

I got chisels, drill bits, files, trammel points etc. but help on the drill bits would be good. Overlap in the pictures.

I have about 4 or 5 braces and have been collecting Jennings and Jennings Pattern bits. I got two today that are Jennings pattern, but I have not identified the trademarks yet.

I got a whole range of flat head screw driver bits, not pictured.

What do you call the straight bits that have the brace and bit tapered square bottom? I have never seen those in the wild. I looked them up and I see them on Ebay. What time period? Looks like they are going for $5 or so per on Ebay. Maybe they are just bits? Mostly I associate braces with augur bits and just have not run across these before.










There were two spoon bits. What time period for those generally? Two kinda spoon bits with twists at the end. What are they called, what time period for those.









Any help on terminology will help in doing research. It is hard to find info on an item if you don't use the correct term.

All of these items are going to get an Evaporust bath tonight.


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