# Bush Oil finishing system.



## pashley (Mar 22, 2008)

Can you share your experience with Bush Oil products?

I saw a brief demo at my wood supplier, and it seemed amazing, especially the sanding system, which is with sanding blocks - it just seems to take a few strokes!

Any feedback is much appreciated!


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## Ripthorn (Mar 24, 2010)

I've seen the demo at lakeshore also. As with all systems, surface prep is key. Oils tend to highlight surface imperfections. As for the oil itself, I've never used it, though I am starting to lean towards buying some.


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

I bet the main component of that brand of snake oil is BLO (which is only good for starting fires) plus some solvent and driers. If oil you must, stick with raw tung oil.


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## cmaxnavy (Dec 23, 2007)

I bought some Bush Oil at Lakeshore as well. Used it on maple and walnut. I prefer tung oil. The Bush oil doesn't dry as quickly nor does it seep like tung oil.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I about halfway through a gallon of brush oil. Its BLO based (so the sales guy told me) and I don't see a big difference than just a cut blo. Since I like blo, I like brush oil, but again don't see a big advantage over mix my own blo mixtures.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

I've had excellent results with the Bush Oil , enough so that I bought a second quart recently. I do prefer Waterlox on some projects though. I don't mix my own finishes , so these work well for me : )


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## shelly_b (Aug 8, 2012)

I just bought some at the woodworking show…haven't got to use it yet though. My main worry is that since it IS oil, it won't hold up to something that needs protection like a table. I bought it from the inventor himself…yeah, he tried to convince me to buy the whole package, but I am cheap and can't see paying over 10 bucks for a foam block just to put sand paper on. Then he tried to get me to buy the sandpaper("b/c it's heat treated and works so much better") and his DVD on how to apply it. He could tell I was cheap b/c he through in all grits of sandpaper in the little rolls for free if I bought the DVD lol. So, I bought the DVD too. It's way longer than I thought it would be so I have only got through some of it. Supposedly by the time I'm done I will swear against my RO sander forever…as you can tell, I am still skeptical lol. The examples they had there were beautiful, so hopefully mine turn out that well too!


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## lns11804 (Jan 31, 2011)

If you have a project that doesn't require a high level of protection then Bush Oil (or any oil finish) will work fine. For a table, I suggest applying Bush Oil for the entire project, then applying any varnish of your choice to just the top, over the Bush Oil. You need to let the Bush Oil cure for 72 hrs or more before applying the varnish.

As for drying, you have to really wipe all the oil off the surface after application - same as for any oil. Oils build slowly with very thin applications. Don't be surprised that you'll need 4 or more coats. The big upside is that wiping all the oil off the surface doesn't leave a wet surface for dust to get trapped in - like it does with varnish.

The "sanding system" is nothing special - just plain old hand sanding. I've used Bush Oil on cherry with very good results. Cherry is very blotchy stuff. I needed to sand thru 400 grit then burnish the wood with the grey and white pads that Bush sells. All the work was well worth it - the finish was beautiful and silky smooth.

Besides, if you're not trying to make a living with your woodworking, hand sanding is very satisfying in some sort of crazy way. Like communing with your creating.


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