# Shop Skills



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

*Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*

*The buzz about scrapers…*

Lately, talk of the cabinet scraper and the frustration that this little tool inflicts on a character has created some buzz in the LJ community. This simple, inexpensive, and very effective tool also frustrates me, but for a different reason. I see many people missing out on the joy of using this tool because they are fed too much information that clouds the simple truth.

*On the other hand…*

On one hand I appreciate the histories and detailed accounts of filing, honing, burnishing, and turning the burr. On the other hand, the cabinet or card scraper is made overly complicated.

When I share my method of sharpening a cabinet scraper with other woodworkers, I am most often discounted and pooh-poohed. It's near heresy because it is not mystical and complicated enough. It does not support the shroud of mystery around some lost art of the craftsman which elevates him to the level of mythical proportions.

*Pulling down the shroud of mystery…*

There is always more than one way to perform tasks in the shop, but here is how I sharpen my scrapers. This post may look long but it is more photos than text.

Here is a look at the collection of scrapers that I use almost everyday that I work in the shop. I use them quite often in my remodeling as well.



I have no preference of any of them. They are different sizes but they are all basically the same thickness, about 1/32" thick.



There is one card that is thinner which gets used the least. I have enough control of the thick scrapers to perform some of the finest work on veneer and inlays. Here I display the difference in the thickness of the scrapers.



*Workflow and sharpening…*

When I am working at the bench and need to use my scrapers, I leave my mill file clamped in the bench vise just like this.



I will scrape my project on one bench and then turn around to the other bench to stroke the card a few times to whip it back into shape. I do not use a jig, I simply hold it by hand at a 90 degree angle on the file. To sharpen I stroke it the full length of the file 3 to 4 times, that is all that is needed. Then I flip it and do the other side. This is exactly how I hold it.



*Here is a tip…*
One thing I find important is keeping the file clean from the file shavings. I keep compressed air handy to blow off the file. You can feel if the shavings roll under the scraper, this is a sign that it needs to be blown off.

*What's your angle?*

The easiest way to find the *working angle* is to hold the card at 45 degrees to the surface. Then stand it back up toward vertical a little more, no more than 1/4 to 1/3 the distance. I don't get hung up on the angle in degrees, it is really by feel. You will get the feel of it as you vary the angle and pressure until it starts to produce fine shavings.

Place your thumbs in the center towards the bottom of the scraper. You can use different areas of the cutting edge by moving the location of your thumbs, thereby applying pressure where you want. You may also pull the scraper applying pressure to the back with your fingers.

This is basically what it will look like.



Here is another view showing some real cabinet scraper action on a piece of reclaimed doug fir flooring.



Here is the flooring with a good bit of scraping done. This piece of wood flooring had a finish on it and sheetrock mud from a remodel project. The cabinet scraper was sharp enough to cut through all of this and make some of the finest shavings.



Here is the result of my sharpening method on a piece of curly maple. This is a difficult piece of wood to plane by hand or machine, but look at the finish and the fine curly shavings.



The next photo shows the scraper results on a piece of Brazilian cherry with a difficult grain pattern. Notice that once again I get consistently fine "angel hair" shavings.



My last photo shows a piece of baltic birch ply that has a maple veneer that I applied. I have total control to scrape the veneer without cutting through it and yet get some nice shavings.



*The proof is in the pudding…*

Well, there you have it. I sharpen my cabinet scraper with a few strokes on the file and nothing more. I sharpened the scraper between each piece of wood but these are true results for each.

I have no preference as to which cabinet scraper that I use. The cheap Stanley scrapers work just as well as the more expensive Sandvik scrapers.

*A balanced point of view…*

I will let you know that the cabinet scraper is followed by a random orbital sander in my workflow. I never use the scraper with the intention of the wood surface going straight to finish.

This level of sharpening is very easy to master and then you may find yourself wanting to precede to the next level. I am very satisfied with the performance of my scraper at this level and do not desire to go any further. If you look at my portfolio you can be sure that the cabinet scraper was used in every project and the results speak for themselves so I can stand by my method.

*May the shroud of mystery be pulled back and the great Oz be exposed…it is that simple.*

Peace, Love, and Woodworking


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## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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> *The buzz about scrapers…*
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Wow. All this talk of burnishing, oil, bending the burr over, but you can't dispute those feathery shavings you're getting there. I'll have to give that a try! Thanks for the post and great pics.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Todd great series of photos. I tell people that if you get dust then you are holding the scraper at the wrong angle. You need to vary your hold until the shavings appear.


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## jim1953 (Nov 18, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Thanks alot Again for the Info


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Todd, I agree with you 100%. I have been doing the same thing for many years. I have all kinds of different scrapers, including a set of bridge city titanium coated ones. They can only be sharpened in this fashion. Thanks for taking some of the mystery out of this tool. John


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## lazyfiremaninTN (Jul 30, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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DOH! I threw my scrapers in a bin and forgot about them because I couldn't get a stupid burr that would give more than dust…...DOH!!!!!!!!!!

Falls back to my mantra…..KISS (Keep it stupid simple)


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Thanks, Todd!

I have been trying all of the same things as Eric pointed out and with dismal results. I am going try it your way, now!


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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I will have to do a video for you guys. But don't hold your breathe - it could be a while.

I am confident that with the given information you guys should be able to figure it out.


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## Bob42 (Jan 9, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Thanks for the post Todd. Santa just delivered my new set of scrapers. I had an old cheap scraper but it didn't work very well, maybe now I can try this method. It sound easy enough.


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## North40 (Oct 17, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Todd, this is exactly how I do it. If I've misplaced my file (again) I just throw some 150 grit paper on the chunk of granite I use for a honing plate and sharpen my scrapers there. And I completely agree … every time I mention this method, someone starts in about some obscure difference between two types of burnishers.


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## gbear (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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what if you only have one bench?


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## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Great job Todd, alot of useful info

Thanks for the post

Callum


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## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Todd I can understand the desire to pull back the shroud of mystery … BUT … with that you destroy one of the mystiques of woodworking. These secret practices are necessary to maintain the illusion of superiority. If you continue to expose the simplicity of some of these things then people like myself will be forced to fall back on the quality of our work for the ooohs and ahhhhs. I'm not sure I'm up to that. ;-)

Yet, it's a good explanation and I may even pull out my card scrapers and give it another try.


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## miles125 (Jun 8, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Great post Todd. I sometimes use simple scrap pieces of dsb glass that also makes a fine scraper. No sharpening. Just cut you another one and try not to cut yourself!


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Nice post, Todd. I have always assumed that burnishing was a part of the sharpening process. I will try just putting an edge on with the mill file and see how it comes out.

By the way I am curious how so you sharpen the curved scrapers. I have used set at times, reluctently, since I can't see a way to easily sharpen them, as you can the straight scrapers.


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Shhhh! You're ruining it for scraper Nazis everywhere!

"No shavings for you!"

That's how I sharpen mine, but I use a screwdriver to create a slight burr. I'll have to try it now straight from the file and see if that works just as good. Always looking to save a step when I can!


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## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Great information Todd. Thanks for sharing.


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## TraumaJacques (Oct 25, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Amen brother! I feel the same with sharpening methods for plane irons and chisels. In my opinion try a few methods fine what works best for your application and stick with it the more your do the better you get at it and therefore is the best for you.
I cant afford $ 300 Japanese water stones or fancy machines but with a .99 cents piece of 600 grit wet dry sand paper and my trusted slab of marble I can achieve a mirrored razor sharp finish on any blades.
And Greg you have been watching way to much Seinfeld but I like your sarcasm (and they say it is the lowest form of wit… but I don't buy that) Thanks for posting


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## bhack (Mar 19, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Thank you Todd. I believe we over think a lot of things today. It is ok to use a method that works for you. Your advise is most appreciated in this shop any day.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Nice job,Todd.


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## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Another good one, Todd. I'm all for removing that mystery as well. I do run a burnisher on the edge but it is not very technical. I use a small file that I stick in a saw kerf in a piece of Oak. Keeps the angle at 90 and is quick and easy. Keep 'em comin', pardner.


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## NedB (Aug 21, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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add me to the list of those who will finally break out the scraper from the packaging… I picked some up a couple of years ago, but I've Never used them. That looks easy enough that once I pick up a file (soon) I'll be using them. Thanks!


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## damianpenney (Jun 22, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Here is a decent article that agrees with you Todd.

"The conventional wisdom is that the steeper the hook, the more aggressive the tool (15° is supposed to be for removing paint; 0° is supposed to be for marquetry). But the truth is, we could get excellent results with all the edges. You could get the wispiest shavings with a 15° hook if you used light pressure. In fact, the only scraper that seemed to perform significantly different is one that I prepared with no hook. That one took only light shavings."

So it's different from a scraper with a burr but still an effective tool.


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## Tikka (May 14, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Great blog, clear and to the point.

Unlike yourself, I prefer to use a burnisher to get that turned edge. But as you said do not get hung up on the angle, for every piece of wood is different, even the same board, along its length. when you get that first good shaving comming off the scraper card, you will know what it feels like and then know what to aim for in the future.


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Great info.

I'm with Tony on this issue.

I've been using cabinet scrapers for four decades.
The burr/no burr controversy isn't a categorical position for me - it's a continuum of possibilities.
Both work, but sometimes one way works better than the other for a particular kind of wood, desired finish or preferred technique. Just like the cabinet scrapers big brother, there are many different kinds of planes, each with their own specialized purposes.

Until recently, I've always made my own scrapers out of spent saw blades or other appropriate pieces of steel.
Lee Valley makes them too easy to obtain - I like that.

My personal techniques tend to vary from "conventional wisdom." 
Since I lean toward Japanese hand tools that tend to work on a pull stroke, rather than a push stroke; I prefer to scrape by pulling. However, I'm "ambi-directional" as needed for a particular situation.

I've even tried using mussel shells from our local river, just like some of my ancestors, for wood scraping.
Burr-less, of course. I'll stick with modern steel for now. 

I teach rustic wood crafting, and my students are amazed at the differences in how well a properly setup scraper works; burr or no burr. Add a little bit of good technique to the mix and the humble cabinet scraper becomes a favored tool.


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## bfd (Dec 23, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Todd,

This is great! I will have to try your method as I love any excuse to use my card scrapers. To try different techniques in woodworking is a good thing. All too often we become too comfortable in doing things the first way we were taught and don't venture to try new techniques that may be easier, safer or yield better results then what we currently use.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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I really appreciate the feedback from everyone.

I found that I did not need to go any farther than what I have shown here in the blog to get great results.

This entry should encourage frustrated individuals to give it a try again and get the card scraper functioning in their own shop.

The various wood samples support the success of my method in that it provides results in various types of difficult wood. I also use this on veneer and inlay with no damage and great results.

I believe that many will have success with this and when they feel comfortable, start exploring the next level of card scraper sharpening. I certainly encourage this.

I push and pull my scrapers as well. I did not really cover this but I plan on working on a video to show more.


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Todd, the proof is in those photos of yours. A great mystery buster. Thanks for sharing.


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## Mikeshea (Jun 19, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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yea talking about scrapers is worse than talking about politics sometimes. there is so many different opinions on how to sharpen or use the tool. you hit it on the head with this post. people over analyze the sharpening method. it took me forever to get it too. i was doing all kinds of fancy things to get the burr. and i got nothing more then a handfull of lousy dust. ofcourse now after 4 years of diddle pissing around with fancy methods of sharpening i have learned and mastered the simple technique of it. i do it verry simillar to the way you do it. only diference is i take a shiny screwdriver and turn the burr a little more. great post todd. love the topic. i hope people try the easy method.

i agree that it is a wonderfull tool and it is ireplaceable. its perfect to use for dried glue, for figured woods, defects, knots, and inlays i also use it allot on joinery were end grain is visible. a scraper shines up end grain real nice. but i still dont have me one of them goosenecks. do you use those often or is it one of those tools that can only be used for one purpose only. like cove moulding


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## Mikeshea (Jun 19, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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oh and nice shavings too….. damn your thumbs must have been on fire


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Mike,

The curved ones do not get used too much. I used the gooseneck when I made the custom cove on my bookcase for example.

My card scraper does not get as hot as it used to. I move the pressure point on the card back and forth to utilize more of the cutting edge on each face. A cooler card scraper is a positive side effect from this technique.


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## Richforever (Mar 19, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Thanks for the info! All new territory for me.


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## Quixote (Jun 9, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Todd

Have you just built a better mouse trap?

At the angle your cutting point engages the wood you aren't 'slicing' like a traditional scraper, you're getting more of a "compression peel"? (Someone probably has a better term for that action.)

This is brilliant in it's simplicity, and given the results, it's obviously effective and far more applicable for the majority of tasks. This makes an otherwise frustrating tool easily useable for a broader range of people and applications.

Do we need to refer to this as the new 'Clipper' method?

Q


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## lazyfiremaninTN (Jul 30, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Todd Clippinger--Wood Workings Mythbuster. You thing Adam and Jaime will let you do a cameo? Maybe we could get the build team let you come play with them. LOL


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## dustygirl (Mar 11, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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It's so wonderful to be learning from all you people here on LJ.Thanks for this post Todd.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Quixote - I understand what you are saying about the compression peel, but it does not matter to me. The card scraper is part of my workflow that ends in using the random orbital sander before finishing.

My feather-like shavings do come off quite readily and so I am happy with the required effort and the result.

The finish that it leaves is quite nice on all the material that I scrape. I demonstrated on difficult materials that would challenge the scraper to show how effective this method is.

I openly admit that burnishing the scraper would leave an even nicer finish, but it is pointless to me because I finish with the sander.

I have to get on a video - time is always the issue.

Adrian - You are right, I should have called it "Woodworking MythBusters".


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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> *The buzz about scrapers…*
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Great info…cabinet scrapers (along with hand planes) are a few of the things I am reluctant to try based on lack of information..and a power cord! Thanks for the info


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## bhack (Mar 19, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Just tried the file method and it works great. Thank you very much Mr. Clippinger.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Bill - I am glad to have some positive feedback after trying this method. If you have any questions let me know.


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Thanks Todd. I always clamped my scraper in the vice and used the file by hand. This looks a lot more practical and quick. This helped a lot.


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## ghazard (Oct 16, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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OK…I'll take the scraper from the bottom of my tool box and try again using this method…Anything is better than the frustration of the "other" method! Thanks, Todd!


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## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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todd - thanks - I'll have to give this method a shot.

question: what grits do you use when finishing with the sander?

also, what sort of file is it? looks like single cut, but is it a "fine" grade?

also, I've been wondering on the importance of a burr, since fresh cut glass gives the nicest scrapings I've yet to see, and that certainly has no burr, it's just super sharp.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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AronK - This is a great question and I should have included the information in text (I will add) and in the video.

I use either a 10 mill or 12 mill bastard file - single cut. Both work equally as well for me.

Sharpening definitely generates a burr because I can feel it on the edge. It is there and I am certain that this must be doing the cutting. I ignore all other directions on sharpening because they say to get rid of this burr and burnish a hook on it. It is obvious that this method is working for me as it is.

I finish to 150 or 180 as needed. On paint grade projects you can get away with 120 or 150 because the paint covers so well. I hardly ever go to 220.

Some wood seems to smooth out fine with just 150. Sometimes I need to go to 180. I do not like to spend any more time sanding than I have to. I can look at the wood closely and experience tells me if I need to go one more step. To be sure you can just go ahead and take it to 180 and I am certain that would be sufficient.

I have a great reputation for finishes so I must be doing something right.

I have debated with other woodworkers about how legitimate my sharpening method is and, ironically, the guys that use the burnisher method still finish out with a random orbital just like me.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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AaronK - One more thing, I realize that the "experience tells me" answer does not help you much. I would suggest that you sand some samples of wood to various levels from 120 through 220. Then put some finish on them to see how it highlights the swirl marks.

Try various woods too. Try the most common ones that you will be using like oak, cherry, maple, or whatever your flavor is. Try a stain to see how it highlights the scratch marks as well. You may even try some paint to see how the swirl marks read through the coating.

Do not just look at these in a critical raking light, take them in the house and lay them in common areas where a side table would be or on the dining table and just see how they look in a normal lighting situation.

Here is another important piece of information; I use a 6" Bosch random orbital and it has really tight swirl marks and runs at a higher rpm than many other sanders on the market. I own two of these because I can take one to the field and leave one in the shop. While in Ohio I had to have the motor brushes replaced and I did not have the back-up. I do not like using a 5" because they are very slow compared to the 6" so I bought a Ridgid 6" RO sander with the intention of leaving it in my brother's shop. The Ridgid runs at a slower rpm with lower orbits per minute and has a larger stroke pattern, even on the fine setting. When I use this sander I always have to finish at 180 and it takes longer than the Bosch.

So the moral of the story is that the sander you use may make a difference.


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## azor (Dec 21, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Todd,

For those of us who are "tool challenged" how would I identify a "mill file"? Otherwise I am ready to give your idea a try.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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I use two files, either a single cut 10 or 12 mill bastard file. Both work, one just cuts faster the other and wears the cards down more quickly.

It is simply known as a "metal file" in generic terms. Every hardware store has them. I buy the larger ones to give me more file surface to work with.

You can see the file in the photo. If you ask at the hardware store I am sure that they can point it out.

Single cut means that there is only one diagonal direction of the file teeth. It is not criss-crossed in the pattern and it will only cut in one direction, that is when pushed.


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## azor (Dec 21, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Todd,

Thanks for making those distinctions. Since I posted my question I was in town and stopped at The Homeless Depot where I bought a general purpose "mill file". The good news is that it turns out that this is a single cut model. However, this may be too fine for our purpose now that I have read your response. It is rated as a 200 mill file. I think I will keep it as my file collection here is paltry. It can be put to some good use in the future. I will try it with your technique and see if it makes any headway setting up the scraper. If not, I'll get a coarser model and try that. If nothing else I will learn something about files and have a couple of new ones on hand to use.

Thanks,


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## azor (Dec 21, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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Todd,

The 200 mill file worked just great. I now have a method to prepare my scraper that works for me. I also viewed your video and learned about the followup with the RO sander. Thanks much for the tip.


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## katilicous (Oct 26, 2011)

toddc said:


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Wait, I'm confused.
Is that it?


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## mayhem69 (Jan 3, 2015)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
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> *The buzz about scrapers…*
> 
> Lately, talk of the cabinet scraper and the frustration that this little tool inflicts on a character has created some buzz in the LJ community. This simple, inexpensive, and very effective tool also frustrates me, but for a different reason. I see many people missing out on the joy of using this tool because they are fed too much information that clouds the simple truth.
> 
> ...


Todd, i am polying a shuffleboard, i can see some low spots from stripping and i gauged 2 places on the board. Its not bad but noticeable. Right now i have at least 12 coats of oil based poly on. Will using a card scraper work well to flatten out the playing surface? The board is 16" wide.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
> 
> *The buzz about scrapers…*
> 
> ...


Mayhem69 - I actually get away with using a card scraper where many woodworkers use a hand plane. The great thing about the card scraper is that it is very easy to control, it can only take so much off at once so you won't gouge the wood and you don't get the tear out that a hand plane will get.

As you can see by the pictures, the card scraper can plow off some wood and I think it might be worth a shot.


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## Buckethead (Apr 14, 2013)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
> 
> *The buzz about scrapers…*
> 
> ...


Well… This is useful. I am SOOO guilty of adding mystique where there is none, and revering various personalities despite my disdain for idol worship. Too much of that in woodworking. (Everywhere else too)

Suffice it to say that I

Love. This. Blog.

Glad it got bumped.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
> 
> *The buzz about scrapers…*
> 
> ...


Buckethead - I'm just a contractor keeping it real in the shop. Glad you found this and enjoyed


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## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

toddc said:


> *Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!*
> 
> *The buzz about scrapers…*
> 
> ...


Ok, I just tried this over the holiday weekend. Holy Cow! This totally works!

I was skeptical, since I have been watching a lot of videos (YouTube) by people that I have a lot of respect for and all the different techniques they use, and I thought to my self "This is too easy"..There's no way this will work" but it does.

I had already ordered a new file and a burnisher from Amazon so when it came in last Friday I knew exactly what I was going to be doing Saturday.

I was throwing all sort of shavings on Oak, Maple, Mahogany, and even some Pine.

Thank you Todd!!!


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

*Card Scrapers the Video!*

*It's Finally Here!*

I have completed my first feature woodworking video. This video shows how I sharpen my card scrapers.

It is a simple process and I kept the instruction simple with some close-up video action.

I hope this post goes smooth, it has taken me all day to figure out how to finish up the video and 3 attempts to get it online. So this is a pretty big moment.

I can work on polished video later but I have to start somewhere.

I hope that this video on sharpening cabinet scrapers or card scrapers (I use the term interchangeably) gives hope to those that have struggled with more complicated methods.

I hope to get feedback from everyone that tries this method.

*Peace, Love, & Woodworking*

http://blip.tv/play/AeO6KAA


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Sorry guys-
I will be posting it smaller to fit the LJ format.


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## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Being inherently lazy, I'm going to give the simple square-edge scraper sharpening a try. If I don't need to burnish the edge that's one less step before I get back to work.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Nice job Todd. The video was wider than the viewing window in by browser. I saw all of the left and maybe 40% of the right side.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


very, very nice Todd. I'll have to try this out on my new LN's. seems like it will work very nicely for where i use card scrapers.


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## robbi (Jul 28, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Nice video, simple and to the point. Good job.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Karson - I am reloading it in a smaller format. Learning the video is all new to me so I am climbing a steep learning curve right now.

Any feedback is appreciated.


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## GMoney (Dec 27, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Thanks Todd for taking the time and energy to produce this video. I really enjoyed the information and I have a couple of nearly unused scrapers ready to go. Your presentation looked polished to me and came across beatutifully in the video.


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## MWDesign (Dec 21, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


I like the "angel hair" term for such fine shavings. I will certainly give this a try.

Cheers,


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


I hope to hear back from everybody that tries this method. I know of several people that have been frustrated with attempting to sharpen these scrapers.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


I got it in the proper format now.


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## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Very well done. Professional, personable and practical. Keep 'em comin' Todd.


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## bhack (Mar 19, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


About 4 hours ago I used Todd's method on some red oak and it works great. I never used the scraper before because of being intimidated by the complicated sharpening instructions.

Thanks for the video Todd, and also thank you for pointing out that we do not have to spend a lot of money on expensive scrapers. Those of us on a fixed income appreciate that.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Bill - I am glad that it worked out for you. Thanks for the feedback. I think that you will find the card scraper to be invaluable in the shop.


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## martin007 (Jan 24, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


I also tried your method without the burnisher,works great

thanks


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Thanks Martin, I am glad it worked for you.


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## Splinters (Dec 12, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Great job on the video Todd…The scraper is the first tool I grab for also..I have been using a 
Veritas® Scraping Set from Lee Valley
which actually comes with a burnisher and it works well. I will try your method and see how it works for me. Thanks for the video…


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Thanks for the video, I really like card scrapers also and use them often. I will try out your method and see.


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## David (Jan 26, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Todd -

Excellent video production. You have a great camera presence with an easy to follow pace.

Awesome subject topic. I believe this video will result in a huge number of scrapers being pulled out from tool box bottoms and dusty drawers to be sharpened and applied to wood for their intended use!

Looking forward to more video content from The American Craftsman Workshop!

David


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## thewoodwhisperer (Dec 11, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Nicely done Todd! A world without burnishers?? Sounds good to me!! I have to admit though, I was a bit skeptical. Its nearly 11pm and I had to run out to the shop and try it, lol. The results were pretty good. I scraped a bit of maple and purpleheart that I had laying around. I couldn't get the deep shavings I usually get from the full burnishing routine, but then again, this took all of 20 seconds to do. And I can't say I gave it my best effort either since its pretty late and pretty darn chilly. Either way, I think I'm sold!

Thanks for introducing this method. This is really going to save me some serious time in the future.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Nice video, Todd. It adds a great deal of depth to your previous blog on card scrapers. The format was pretty straight forward and it flowed well from one topic to another. This is a nice instructional tool.

I really appreciate the sequence on the curved scrapers. I have been wondering how to handle sharpening these tools.

Thanks for the post.


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## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Great video Todd, very informative!

Thanks

Callum


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## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Faster and without a lot of mystical hoo-doo. That's sharing the love! 
Thanks for the info, Todd. Incidentally this method also works with the handled cabinet scraper (No. 80-type; Stanley, Kunz, LV, or LN). You just eyeball the 45° and proceed as with the card-type.

Todd, it looks like you have been before the camera your whole life. Excellent job…now to get you some sponsors!


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## miles125 (Jun 8, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Great video Todd. I thought it looked downright professional!
There may be misconceptions out there about when to use a scaper. Some jobs you won't need it at all. I'd give a few examples like…
1. Removing heavy machining marks like those left by gaps in planer blades.
2. Surfacing a board that refuses to not tear out no matter which way or how slow you run it through a power planer.
3. Leveling a finished tops decorative edge moulding down flush with the surface.

All of which are really just time saving steps before the sanding stage.

Heres a pic of a card scraper i employed in a handrail transition i did a while back. Works great for keeping a shape as true as possible.


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## Dadoo (Jun 23, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Works for me! Thanx for the tip Todd!


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## gbear (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Great job on the video Todd…very professional looking…and, of course, thanks for the good information -
a technique I have used and will continue to use.


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## Rogue (Nov 24, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


You are going give spagnolla a run for his money. You have a great presents and from your beautiful peices I can see you have a lot of knowlage to share. You should consider a career in "how to's". I would tune in every week. brovo to your vid crew too!


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Rogue, I humbly accept your compliment, but I am certainly not out to compete with anybody. I just want to share my perspective.

There are two people that have given me support behind the scenes, that is Dave Pruett and Marc Spagnuolo.


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


a well thought out video - especially liked the "let's do it again in close-up".


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## MarkM (Sep 9, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Todd,

You''re a natural! Very nicely done.

I think your point is a good one that if you are going to follow up with a Random Orbital Sander, there may be no need to go to the honing/burnishing stage with the scraper. I usually just hand sand with a high grit after scraping to blend any inconsistencies. However, I have used your method in the past for more aggressive kinds of scraping tasks like scraping finish, etc.

Hopefully, you have pushed those who have shied away from this versatile tool to give it another try. Great work!


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


todd i just used your method on my new scrapers to scrape some tiger maple and it worked great!


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Hey Dennis, thanks for the feedback. It would not surprise me to see you take this one to the next level.


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## darryl (Jul 22, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


great production on the video, it's really well done.

I'm going to have to give it a whirl, it looks like it works pretty well.


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## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Well done my friend. Well done.


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## sidestepmcgee (Mar 14, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


very informative,i guess its time to get a scraper set.thanks


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## woodsmithshop (Sep 10, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Todd, great video, but I could only get the last 30 seconds of the audio, the rest of it was all broken up.
I will try your method,it sure looks easier than all other ways I have tried.


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## dennis (Aug 3, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


I just love my Todd TV! That is the way I was taught. I was expecting you to close out with "Peace, Love, and woodworking."


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## MWDesign (Dec 21, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Hey Todd,

I was at Woodcraft tonight and picked up a file so that I could try your scraper sharpening method. After scraping some leftover Ash that I had laying around, everything worked just as you mentioned. I also tried another method by applying Camellia oil to the file (as cutting fluid) which worked really well too. You may want to give this a try and let me know what you think.

Best,


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


This makes sense as I use cutting fluid for drilling or cutting threads in metal, which is the common practice.

I am not familiar with camellia oil though. You will have to fill us in on it.

I am not sure that I would want the oil on my file as I use it to shape wood quite a bit. I use it to break the edge on my work quite often in place of sandpaper and a sanding block.


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## MWDesign (Dec 21, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Hey Todd,

Here's link on Camellia Oil: http://japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=15.574.58&dept_id=13153

I had to wipe off the scraper before using it on the wood; I didn't have any issues after that. Typically, Camellia oil is used to keep steel blades free from corrosion. I thought it made sense so I gave it a try.

Cheers,


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## DocK16 (Mar 18, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Since the cut from a card scraper is done with the burr. I still don't understand how the burr is obtained with filing only.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Gotta be honest…

I was frustrated with the "complicated method" when I first started woodworking. I thought that I would try scraping after just using the file and it worked.

File sharpening creates something of a burr because I can feel it on the card. This is more coarse than the refined hook or burr that is created with the burnishing tool.

I haven't done any in depth research into the edge, I have just used it on all of my work. This includes veneer and inlay and I have had tremendous success with it. Nobody taught me this method, it was simply discovered out of frustration.


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## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


thanks for the video todd! lots of good information - you did a good job anticipating any questions. very thorough.


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## arteest (Sep 27, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Great job, Todd!
(I just wish I had started using these "durn" things when I was younger… I finally started using them at age 65.)

Thanks a lot for taking the mystery out of the whole deal!


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Thanks for the detailed demo Todd.
I'm always learning something new here.

Bob


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Thank you for a Very GOOD video presentation!

I always thought the process could be simplified… You did it!


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## Zeke (Feb 11, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


I've never used a card scraper. Primarily due to what I had read about the complicated sharpening routine. You've inspired me to give it a try.

Thanks Todd.


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## spaids (Apr 15, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


This is revolutionary! We gotta get the Schwarz in on this for some in depth analysis.


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## LONGHAIR (Dec 16, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Filing itself does indeed produce a rather coarse burr, but it is inherently weak. That is why you have to have the file "ready" in the vice for touch-ups. 
Yes, for rough work like stripping fininsh it might do ok. But, a real turned burr will last much longer and give a far smoother finish behind. 
I do you the different thinknesses of scrapers for different things though. I turn a heavier more aggressive burr on the thicker scrapers, for faster removal. A less agressive burr on thinner units for finishing cuts. I try to finish with as little sanding as I can. Scraping seems to leave a clearer/cleaner look to the wood.

Also, you will find that you get less heat from a scraper that is cutting better. For larger areas I use more than one scraper at a time though. When one gets hot, I just switch to the other. I can go back and forth between them several times before re-burnishing the burr, which you can do w/o having to file again.


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## bowyer (Feb 6, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Finnally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the great video and explanation in real people terms of the cabinet/card scraper.
Now I understand how to use and sharpen mine.


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## bgmdad (Jan 24, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Pretty cool. My problem has been that no one seems to even know what a burnishing tool is, let alone sell one. THANKS!


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## joey (Sep 17, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


An old German carpenter that I use to work with showed me this a long time ago, His father was a carver that came to Cincinnati from Germany to carve mouldings in some of the finer houses that was being build in the late 1800s here. I learned alot from him and loved to hear his stories. 
I also keep some scrapers with a finishing burr on it for some fine finish work.


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## flcopper169 (Apr 4, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Very well put together… Thanks for your efforts….

Rob


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Thanks Todd,
It was a while back.
It is worth bringing on again.

Jamie


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## wannadoitall (Sep 30, 2010)

toddc said:


> *Card Scrapers the Video!*
> 
> *It's Finally Here!*
> 
> ...


Great video - I really enjoyed it! Thanks!


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

*Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*

*Forgive My Insensitivity…*

A public Thank You is in order before I go any further. I had some great support from two individuals that are a part of LumberJocks.

I relied heavily on Dave Pruett for "on call" support to figure out how to edit / process / and post my video.

I need to thank Marc Spagnuolo as well. I did not continually call him like Dave, but his advice and pointers were taken to heart and helped me out as well.

As with my woodworking, my achievement with video is due to the support of others. Thank You!

*The Lost Scene…*

I forgot to add one scene in my video for the first post. It is kind of important because I use the cabinet scraper on a piece of reclaimed flooring with finish on it. First, I scrape off the finish (Oh boy does it explode off the board in front of the scraper!) and then I am able to start peeling the wood off in curls.

I did a re-edit and post, but you do not have to watch the whole video to see the lost scraper scene. You can see it here, it is just over a minute long:

http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=63881

If you haven't seen the full video yet, it is available here:

http://blip.tv/play/AeO6KJKXCQ

I hope that this opens the door to the use of the card scraper for those that have struggled with the sharpening of this amazing tool.

I appreciate feedback and encourage any others that use card scrapers to post a blog with their perspective on the use of this tool.

*Share the Love~Share the Knowledge*


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


You just wanted to leave that out so you could get everyone to up your post count.. T know you Todd.

Good job ny the way.


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## anqi (Dec 2, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


Todd, Good job. Thank you!


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


When does the Blooper reel come out?


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## Zuki (Mar 28, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


LOL Brad_N


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## David (Jan 26, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


Todd -

That was amazing to watch the finish flying off that scraper!

David


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


I thought that this scene was pretty important to get in there.

It can be easy to miss a scene during editing.


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## Harold (Nov 13, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


Todd I enjoyed this…one of the problems common in teaching or sharing is that a convenient or appropriate time for questions never presents itself. While watching your video I had the impression that questions would not only be encouraged, but genuinely welcomed. Well done Todd, very well done. You know one of the first hurdles faced in woodworking, or rather thier skills….is being able to recognize a 90 degree angle. I would enjoy your take on how this "talent" could be realized. It is a simple concept, but it has a huge impact on virtually every aspect of this craft as we move forward, from chopping a mortise, cutting dovetails, fitting a joint..or to sharpening our card scrapers….once again, thank you


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


Harold - Finding 90 is the crux of many woodworking skills.

As with anything it takes practice.

I found it interesting to watch myself in the video because I realized how skilled I have become at using the card scraper. It was like watching someone else that knew what they were doing.

It is an easy tool to operate really, but I always went to the right angle in the video and was peeling off beautiful shavings of wood.

I did comment in the video that finding the working angle would be intuitive once you practice it.

I am certain that it is impossible for me to achieve a perfect 90 degree position without a jig, but I am getting it close enough because it works and works very well.


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## thewoodwhisperer (Dec 11, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


Oh man. Burnisher sales are dropping as we speak…....... 

Great excerpt!


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


Nice video, Todd. I will put my card scrapers to better use because of this video.


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


Well done Todd.


----------



## douginaz (Jun 11, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


Todd, you have just relieved the burden of sharpening scrapers for a bunch of guys. I love to use the scraper but I have always hated the sharpening \ burnishing part. Thank you for a new way to do things. 
Later, 
Doug in AZ.


----------



## ToddE (Aug 18, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


Todd,
I tried your technique on my new fangeled bench with a piece of maple that I had roughed from a 20" planer that was traveling too fast and put about 8,000 mill marks in it Took the marks right off. It is nice because you can do it fast and with my new bench, I can have everything clamped up right at my finger tips. Here's a pic. Thanks Todd


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


Thanks for the feedback and especially the photo!

It is great to see that it worked for you.

The speed combined with the results are what I love about this method.


----------



## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


a belated "thanks" and "well done"


----------



## dustygirl (Mar 11, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


That was 2 great videos Todd.Before LJ's I hadn't even heard of a card scraper. Thank you so much for opening my eyes to such a simple and effective tool.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


Todd, I had in fact read in a recently acquired book on guitar making that a scraper could be just filed before use, but didn't smooth as good a the regular method. I was eager to try it out. I use my scrapers a lot, but have always used the "long method" to sharpen. Seeing your video was a revelation. Thank you so much for taking all the time to make this video so we can get even more enjoyment out of woodworking.


----------



## MikeGager (Jun 15, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


well this is an older post but i just found it, hopefully i can get an answer here.

ive tried the technique you show with no luck at all. my question is what type of file should i be using? i tried it with a file with crosscut lines as i dont have a single cut file. would that make a difference?


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


You can only use a single cut mill file. It cannot have the crosscut or crosshatch pattern in it.

Is that what you are using?

I have good result on a 10 mill and 12 mill single cut bastard file.


----------



## MikeGager (Jun 15, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


yeah its a crosscut style. i will get me a single cut fill and try it again. thanks!


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


That will solve the problem!

They do not cost much


----------



## MikeGager (Jun 15, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


hey todd finally got around to getting a new file with similar results. would the quality of card scraper make a difference on what kind of shavings it produces? im using one i got from woodcraft, its a lynx brand by e garlick and sons. says its made in england so i thought they would be good. they are supposed to measure 0.8mm thick. should i try a different brand?


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


Mike- There are two challenges to using a card scraper; 1. sharpening and 2. properly using.
I seriously doubt that the card scraper itself is the issue. If you have a single cut file then it comes down to sharpening or scraping technique.

Sharpening the scraper is actually pretty easy. But if you do not think that you are holding it at a proper 90° to the file, it is easy enough to make a jig. However, a perfect 90° is not necessary because I can guarantee that I do not maintain a perfect 90° to the file and I get a sharp scraper.

When you check to see if it is sharp, pull your fingers across the face of the card and across the edge. When you do this, you will feel the burr on the edge. You will feel this on both sides and it is what does the cutting. Sharpening methods that use the burnisher refine this burr, but I get great results without refining it and it cuts very well as the video shows.

The next thing is using the card scraper. In helping others with card scrapers, I find that often this is where they are having the real difficulty. Sharpening with the file is easy, I even showed my wife and her friend how to do it so they could refinish a piece of outdoor furniture. They were sharpening and scraping on their own within a few minutes.

Start out holding the card scraper at a right angle to the board and only take it down about 20° to get the proper scraping angle. This will actually get you close, but you will need to play with that angle a little bit and lower or raise it to find the proper working angle. One hint - a higher angle works better than a lower angle.

A little bow or camber helps, but is not specifically necessary because I can pull the card scraper with one hand and get good shavings.

I hope this extra information helps.


----------



## MikeGager (Jun 15, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


hi todd, thanks for all the advice. i believe i am sharpening the scraper properly as i do feel the burr after sharpening so i think you may be right about my technique. i have to admit i may be holding the scraper at too much of an angle. i will experiment more with the angle and let you know how it goes. thanks again


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


I look forward to seeing how it works out.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


Todd, you're really good…

I like the way you use the KISS method / approach!

Thank you.


----------



## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Sharpening Card Scrapers - The Lost Scene...*
> 
> *Forgive My Insensitivity…*
> 
> ...


I just found this, and it has made my scrapers so much better! I just glued up 4 maple boards (going to be a raised panel door), and after planing down the joints I took the card scraper to it and it is baby bottom smooth. These doors will be painted, so I may hit them with a little 220 before painting, but honestly I think I could paint them as-is. In the future though, I will probably be wearing gloves when sharpening… I slipped once and took a pretty good gouge out of my right palm on one of the scrapers corners >_<


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

*Trusting Your Glue Joints*

http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ

Many woodworkers lack confidence in their glue joints. The way to overcome this is by getting to know your products and materials. This is accomplished by experimenting and testing - particularly through destructive testing.

I continually test my off-cuts from every project. This provides a form of quality control testing that is specific to each project.

In this video I show a couple of the methods that I use to test my glue joints. Testing your joints to the point of wood failure will give you quite a bit of information. Close examination of the results will allow you to understand if you may suffer product failure in your project or if your woodworking techniques are falling short.

I advise caution when testing wood to the point of failure, but these methods are quite safe and easily controlled.
*Share the Love~Share the Knowledge *


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


This was pretty cool. I always know that my joints are tough but when you send something out of the shop, maybe never to be seen again you always still keep your fingers crossed. Thanks.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Thanks for the video, Todd. I have always been reluctant to toss offcuts from my glue-ups and have wondered at times what to do with them. Like most of us here I have simply tossed them into my several offcut bins hoping to find a use for them down the road. This looks like an excellent use for these pieces.

Thanks for sharing this idea.


----------



## North40 (Oct 17, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Great video Todd!

If you've ever had to disassemble a glued-up project, you really start to recognize the strength of the glue. You just can't plan on re-using the parts because the workpieces break before the glue.

The only time I've had glue failure is when the glue was applied at very low temperatures.


----------



## Junji (Feb 20, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Todd, 
Thank you for your useful information. Testing is the most important! This is true not only for glue joints.


----------



## Bureaucrat (May 26, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Very informative and useful. Thanks.


----------



## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Great video, and a great way to test your product without destroying it. Using cutoffs from the actual product is an excellent idea.


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Some very useful information there Todd. Thanks for the info.


----------



## gbear (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Good information Todd but I would say you don't even have to go to the point of breaking the wood.
When you have added enough pressure to cause the wood to severly bow…that should be adequate and safe for testing purposes.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Thanks for the ideas and video. Guess I'm going to have to put you on the buddy list so I don't miss these ;-))


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Gbear- You're probably right. I just can't help myself, I have to break it.


----------



## Ottis (Apr 17, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Great video and Idea Todd, Thanks.


----------



## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Good information and great video. Your presentations are highly pragmatic and very personable. When will we be seeing you on TV?


----------



## snowdog (Jul 1, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


What they said  thanks for the vid. Nise production

I knew the glue would hold but never saw it tested. I am armed now with real information from observation. I love it.

Do you have your vids posted at a higher resolution anywhere? Just a suggestion but I appreciate when I can choose between low and hi res feeds.


----------



## Mario (Apr 23, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Great job, I would love to see more like it.

Thanks.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Thanks Russel and everyone else for the encouragement.

I plan on doing more videos in the future. It can be difficult since they take a lot of time and having my own business is a bit demanding too. But I certainly have plans!


----------



## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Thanks Todd,

I've always had excellent success with my glue ups.

I have many projects that are 40 years old, when all I had for glue was Elmer's white glue.

With the choices of glue they have nowadays, I have a lot more faith than ever.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Thanks for the input Dick.

I use Titebond the most, but I trust all of the manufacturers. Titebond is what my main supplier carries and is the most widely available glue at the hardware stores.

I want the other LJ members to know that the other brands are good and I did not want it to seem like an exclusive endorsement for Titebond.


----------



## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


I've tried quite a few different brands with good results.

Most of the time, I buy what's on sale, & by the gallon.

I haven't had any problem with glue I've had for a long time either.

I guess it makes a difference where you keep it stored.


----------



## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Another great quality video full of useful information , Todd . Thank you for taking time out of your schedule to share with us : )


----------



## chadb (Apr 14, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Todd awesome video! I really enjoyed it. You act like an old movie star  Great Job!


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Brian - I know what you mean and the article seems to offer a very logical and valid point.

I have talked to a couple of furniture makers here in town and discussed this very issue because I have read the same article. I have examined several restaurant style tables that the local shops have made and I know the makers.

Nobody I know personally is using this technique and none of the tables that I have seen developed cracks the way that the article indicated. These tables are several years old and get abused all of the time.

I simply jointed the wood and glued it up. I may find out the hard way - only time will tell.

I would be interested in hearing feedback from anybody that uses the technique and finds that it is actually better.


----------



## Handi75 (Nov 20, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Todd: Great Video dude… You been pumping them out like Crazy… I've not had the time to do anymore… Been low on resources and the likes.. but hopefully soon!

Handi


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Well done great idea


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Good video, Todd. This is something I don't think I would have ever thought to do. Interesting results too.


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Great blog, thanks Todd.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Yes, very helpful & informative!

Good job!

Thank you.


----------



## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


Great information. Thanks!


----------



## wannadoitall (Sep 30, 2010)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


The only thing I like better than building things is ripping things apart! ;D

This video had it all - thanks!


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Trusting Your Glue Joints*
> 
> http://blip.tv/play/Af6ZQpKXCQ
> 
> ...


I still test the glue joints from my cut-offs for quality control. The glue never fails, always the wood.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

*Using Toner to Add or Change Color*

*Sorry for the False Start Guys…*

I had the privacy setting turned on when I posted to YouTube. (D'oh!)

*It's Finally Here!*

Whew! It takes a lot of work to shoot a video, edit, and get it posted to the internet.

I am still struggling with posting to the internet. My HD file sizes are too big to be accepted by BlipTv and YouTube, and once I get the size down to an acceptable limit, they lose quite a bit of quality. This is a bit frustrating and makes me sad to see all my hard work go for naught when it comes to the final viewing quality.

If anybody has any suggestions please let me know.

*On to Wood Working*

This video demonstrates the use of toner made with dye, for adding color to a woodworking project.

In this episode, I use toner to change the existing color of a set of French doors. These doors are for my clients so this is a live project.

This is not a comprehensive dissertation on the use of dyes and toner. I am limited to the use of what is necessary to complete this particular project, but the principles and the basics are very well applied and demonstrated.

I hope you enjoy the video and find it informative.






I used ML Campbell's MagnaMax to finish the door. It is a wonderfully durable pre-cat lacquer.



*Providing Nutrition for Woodworkers*


----------



## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Very informative. I never really understood toner usage, and I now have a much better idea.

I noticed when you first started spraying you'd stop and start in the middle of a panel instead of the long full-length coats. I usually get terrible finish build-up if I accidentally do that with, say, a spray can finish. I assume you can do that because of the ultra-fine droplet size?


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Hey Todd
Super video Good info and well presented. The only thing ,I've been told by my paint supplier is that skin can absorb thinners so they recommend wearing long sleeves and even a hood if you can stand it when you spray.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Greg - It is important to understand that I am not spraying coats of finish, I am adding layers of color. There is very little to virtually no build of film. That is why you can spray in spot locations to add color.

Once the desired level of color is achieved, you add even coats of finish.


----------



## JerrySats (Jul 7, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Todd 
Your tips on using toner are great ,thanks for taking the time to put this together. What did you use for finish ? 
Thanks 
Jerry


----------



## interpim (Dec 6, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


I always love your videos Todd… I sense the next Wood Whisperer


----------



## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Todd: not sure what you're using for encoding your movies, but I've tried varying the encoding to shrink mine in the past. I'll usually convert my raw camcorder videos to DiVx (or Xvid) which shrinks them considerably. I'm a Linux guy, and use mencoder (mplayer) for that, which gives you lots of options. They do have a windows port of it, but I've never tried it out.

One thing I've noticed about some software is that they can leave the audio stream in a raw format rather than converting to MP3 or something along those lines, which can increase the video size considerably. Another possibility is to use a 2-pass encoding method which can result in smaller videos. If I'm re-encoding for web sharing, I'll shrink the video down to 400×300 and aim for 1000-2000kbps streaming speed, which results in pretty small videos when taking from a standard MPEG stream.

Beyond that, great video!


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


JerryS - I use ML Campbell's MagnaMax satin. It is a pre-catalyzed lacquer and it is very durable.

Interpim - You will have to thank Marc because he is one of the guys that originally helped me with video. David Pruett and Tommy MacDonald were also very helpful. Each one had very specific information that helped get me going. There is still so much more to learn about video production and posting.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Jimi_C - I am using iMovie '09 on my MacBook. I can convert the video to any of the necessary formats for uploading the the net.


----------



## MercerRemodeling (Jul 6, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Every time I try to watch the video a message pops up that says this is a private video??? I am looking forward to seeing this one.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


I'm having a problem getting anything to show up. It might send me to youtube and then it's just a bunch of regular videos.


----------



## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


My disappointment knows no depth as I have not received a friend request to view the video. :-(

It say it is a "private" video which I'm guessing has something to do with an ancient chinese secret.

Please Todd allow me to view your video. I am your biggest fan. I've started dressing like you and even tried to cut my hair like yours (that's not working out so well). I wanna be you when I grow up.

Okay, I'll check later to see if it's viewable.


----------



## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


So it is not just me and my cranky computer…


----------



## oakdust (Dec 15, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


I am getting the same message, how do we open it


----------



## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Its saying its a private video, and I cant see it


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Todd, I am getting the same message about this being a private video on both my computer and my wife's new laptop. Any suggestions on how we can get the video to play?

And I was all pumped up and ready to watch it!! I even had the popcorn ready.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Russel - you concern me.

Sorry about getting your hopes up and locking you out. I hope the video is worth the wait.


----------



## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Thanks Todd for changing whatever was blocking the video. It was indeed worth waiting for. A great presentation with a lot of useful information. I now have to explore the world of toners and spray guns!


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Todd came through great. Nice job on the video, and a great tutorial.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Nice job Todd.
I can see where your lighting is a big help.
I still have hot spots and cold spots when I spray. Grrrr.

Bob


----------



## Richforever (Mar 19, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Thanks, Todd. Very informative. I'll be watching it some more.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Thanks, Todd this is much better. This was a well produced and informative video. Thanks for the tip on adding the binder to the dye. That is something of which I was not aware.

I know that this takes a lot of both time and effort since you have many hats to wear- producer, director, camera man and actor- but sharing your knowledge and talents like this is appreciated.

I am looking forward to the next segment of the American Craftsman Workshop. (And I will make sure I have the popcorn ready for the movie).


----------



## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Todd, your stuff is always worth the wait and this is no exception. Great stuff.


----------



## decoustudio (May 4, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Here's my suggestion:

contact PBS or DIY about doing a full blown tv show. Since David Marks went off the air, I've been searching for something to watch (although I will still watch a re-run of his shows). Also, love watching "Modern Masters" on Fine Living Network.

good work,
m


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


I will have to look up "Modern Masters." I have never heard of it.

I do not see a lot of programs because I do not have cable.


----------



## reggiek (Jun 12, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Todd, fine bit of work there….I found it most informative…..

Can the toner be used to highlight areas on turned items? I was thinking about ageing spindles…I am doing a repair job on an old table and chair set with spindles on the leg rails and stiles of the chairs - some of which are broken or missing…..Of course they are age contrasted….and I was thinking of a dye/tint method to highlight the areas to match the un repaired parts….and also whether wipe on would be preferable to an overall spray?

I would certainly vote again for having you host a PBS or other type show…It was disappointing when you were not selected earlier….

Hmmm…now Russell..lol….I guess as long as he isnt wearing a dress…and cap like grizz you probably don't have too much to be concerned about.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


ReggieK - You just gave me a good chuckle

The situation that you are faced with is a perfect situation for using toner. Be sure to stay with the given type of finish or a toner formula that is compatible. Dial the spray gun into a spot spray pattern for smaller or tighter areas and build very light layers of color. Do not wet it until it runs.


----------



## reggiek (Jun 12, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Todd…thanks for the info…as I said…it was a most timely video for me. I had been thinking of trying various methods to "age" the spindles….spot staining….staining with a darker stain in the detail areas….making a mask to reduce the stain in different areas….etc…etc…This by far looks to be the easiest.

I can try some test pieces to see how well the components stick and look….luckily, I can make the spindles from either oak dowels…or inexpensive fur…as the spindles are standard sized…stiles are 5/8" and the leg rails look like 3/4" or close…..it just depends on how much time I have as to what material I'll use. The only item on my wish list for this is a lathe replicator…for now they will have to settle with as close as I can get by eye.

I also got a visual of a cheering section on a woodworking show (like the melon heads or such at the football games)...Russell and Grizz could lead it for you….they could be the LJ Cheerleader Squad (like the Dallas cheerleaders…but hairier).......everyone needs some comic relief now and then (sorry to pick on you Russell and Grizz)...lol


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


ReggiK - Don't forget that you can use a base of dye on the wood, followed by stain, a seal coat, THEN finish tuning into the color with the dye. That would be the most appropriate sequence.

Do a test on scrap pieces if you can.

Masking off areas to isolate the work area may be necessary.


----------



## Russel (Aug 13, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


In all seriousness (whatever that may be), I will add my voice to those calling for a regular show for you Todd. Your style is confident and comfortable; a good combination with your skill and knowledge. What seems to be left on TV are monotone readers, simplistic demonstrators or dangerous amateurs. Good instruction is hard to come by.

And, if you need a lead in, I promise not to wear a dress … it would hide my hot-pants.


----------



## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Russel…LMAO ! 
Todd , once again you've created a great video . Very informative and helpful . I'm looking forward to seeing you on PBS very soon : )


----------



## donbee (Feb 7, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


I'm very appreciative of your demo. I don't use spraying in my shop because I don't have room for a spray booth.
So, imagine my surprise to see you spraying in the open amongst your tools with no booth and no apparent exhaust system.
I'm curious to know if that's a good method, or do you do this just for the video?

d


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Don - Moment of truth here, that is exactly where I spray my projects. My spray booth is serving as a storage room until we can finish the building. The dust collector sits by the double doors to the spray booth which is 16' x 12' inside.

Using solvent based materials (lacquer) requires me to shut off the furnace and cross ventilate the shop with the large windows and doors and I do this even in the winter. During the summer the furnace is shut off anyway and the windows are open. I usually have fans assisting in pushing air in on the high pressure side of the building to force it out the low pressure side but did not for the video.

Spraying each coat or part of a project is fairly short in duration. This keeps the fumes and overspray fog under control. Then I have to let the room clear and shut the doors and windows if it is cool weather out.

Lacquer based products dry incredibly fast so you do not need a hermetically sealed room to get an uncontaminated finish.

The material that goes airborne dries in the air and lands as dry fall on equipment so I do not have an issue with coating my equipment with anything but dust. The dust accumulation is not a big issue because I clean my shop constantly. Woodworking is a dusty trade anyway.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Todd, a friend of mine who used to refinish furniture for several retail stores used a water fall system behind his spray area that the fumes passed over on the way out of the room.
It was a large sheet of glass with a recirculating water fall trickling down the surface and a fan pushing overspray into its path.
He claimed it worked as well a Binks booth for his operation.






Bob


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Very nice and informative video!

Great job!

Thank you very much!


----------



## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Using Toner to Add or Change Color*
> 
> *Sorry for the False Start Guys…*
> 
> ...


Hi Todd, 
I just looked in the utube help, & found this.

This may help you with your large video postings.

*You may have solved it by now, but I figured, I'll send it anyway.*


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

*Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*

*An Opportunity to Share*

While creating some detail mouldings for cabinet doors and drawers, I realized this would be a great opportunity to share how I handle these smaller pieces.



*Simple But Safe*

The methods that I use are very simple but create safe handling in a small production setting.

My work table is not a traditional style woodworking bench, it has a solid laminate top without bench dog holes. I like the clean solid surface for the type of work that I do.

This would appear to leave me with a lack of any methods for holding my work, especially small pieces. But I have some simple methods for holding my work that are quite effective.

*The Problem*

When routing a profile on the stock, if it is not held in place it will drift away from the router bit. It needs to be stopped on the ends and on the opposite side of the workpiece from the cut.

We need to keep the workpiece clear of obstacles. The router fence needs to stay off of the table edge and if you are using a router with a guide bearing, the bearing may need to have clearance from the table surface.

Here you can see how the piece migrates away from the router and the router fence will end up riding against the table.



*The Solution*

The solution is simple. I use stop blocks that have 90° cutouts in them to capture the corners of the work piece. These are clamped to the table with enough space to easily place and remove the workpiece.



The rules are simple, the stop has to be lower than the stock you are holding and it has to allow clearance for a router fence to enter and exit the ends. It is also important to realize that the stock is wide enough to safely remain on the table and the small profile will be removed from the stock at the tablesaw.





The stops do not need to clamp tight against the workpiece, they only need to act as a stop on both ends (hence the name.) You can leave a gap of 1/8" for ease of changing out the pieces and this is important when you have several pieces to work as in a small production run.



For this particular project I had stacks of short and long pieces to rout. I ran all of the short ones and then moved the stop to allow for holding the longer pieces.

You may wonder why I did not set up the router table. This could be done but I had to do a lot of climb cutting due to the difficult grain. Climb cutting is easier for me to do while holdinging a router on the workpiece rather than holding the workpiece on the router table. This worked best for this situation.

*Other Uses*

After routing the profile I needed to do a bit of sanding to clean up the profile. I used a stop placed at one end to hold the workpiece for sanding. This avoids the need to clamp the piece and possibly even move the clamp for access to work the full length of the profile.

I had several pieces to sand so this made sanding, changing sides, and swapping out workpieces a quick exercise.



I hope this gives you some ideas for working in your shop.

*Share the Love~Share the Knowledge*


----------



## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


*Thank you, Todd.*


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Thanks Todd


----------



## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


I have the same type of table setup. Good advice on the workpiece supports.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Good tips Todd.

p.s. how do you work around the bearing set screw? ( touching the table surface)

That's on of the reasons I generally use the router table.

Bob


----------



## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing the tricks & tips!


----------



## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


very informative and might save a finger or two for someone.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Bob#2 - Take note that the edge of the workpiece hangs over the edge of the table to provide that clearance.
That also means the stock must be wide enough to remain on the table.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Nice work!


----------



## JackBarnhill (Mar 8, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Thanks Todd. I'm glad you explained your reason for not doing this on a router table as that is the method that I have used for making small trim pieces. Good tip.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Right you are Todd.
I was looking at the second picture and that made me wonder.
Funny how you mind dosent see the differnece in th following pics. 
I'm getting too old for this . <g>

Bob


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Hmmm… interesting. As soon I was thinking why not use a router table I read: "You may wonder why I did not set up the router table. This could be done but…"


----------



## jlsmith5963 (Mar 26, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Todd
One part of my typical profile routing process is to use multiple passes that reduces the likelihood of tear out and allows for a final 'thin' clean up pass. My process always includes multiple passes which means either raising the bit or adjusting the fence (I use a spacer method for fence adjustments). Your demonstration doesn't address this although the profile looks like one that would benefit from a multi-pass process. I would be interested to hear from you whether you were making that profile in one pass.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


jlsmith - Thanks for bringing up the multiple passes. I used two different bits with multiple passes (4) on each to achieve the profile and get as little tear out as possible.

Believe me, very difficult grain on this stock.


----------



## huff (May 28, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Good Tips, Thanks Todd


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Todd a great tip. Is the wooden fence attached to your router?


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Karson - The fence is attached to the router.


----------



## rshep55 (Dec 30, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Todd,

I always enjoy your videos/tips. Keep them coming!
Thanks,

Shep


----------



## cobra5 (Jul 14, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


thanks for the tip, this is helpful for me as i like to free hand with my router quite a bit


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


great tip .

thanks todd .


----------



## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Once again you've given us some excellent tips here , Todd : ) Thank you !


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip Todd. it's commendable for a pro like yourself to share your knowledge with us.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Holding and Routing Small Profile Mouldings*
> 
> *An Opportunity to Share*
> 
> ...


Woodworkers are often surprised by many of the simple methods that I use in the shop.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

*Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*

*A Challenging Situation*

Cutting small pieces of trim or moulding accurately on the compound miter saw can be challenging and a bit dangerous. The compound miter saw (known as the chopsaw in the trades and hereafter) has a large opening in the table for the blade and, most often, the plastic insert in the table drops down slightly from the level of the surrounding table. This is characteristic on my Hitachi, DeWalt, and Makita chopsaws. (I am a contractor so I sport 3 chopsaws.)



This provides poor support when cutting small pieces of trim or moulding and this situation creates a safety issue. Poorly supported pieces may be sucked into the blade and drag fingers into it or at least go flying around the shop, ricocheting like a bullet. A zero clearance table surface is the solution and is very simple to make.



It is important to understand that this table is a consumable item and new ones will need to be made regularly and perhaps specific for each job. This is not like making an auxiliary table for the drill press that will last for years.

The table surface can be 1/2" or 3/4" plywood. Since you are cutting small pieces, the table does not need to be too big. It needs to be big enough that you will not cut through the far edge of it easily which would cut it clean apart, but small enough that you can still read the miter gauge on the saw. It looks like I have cut clean through mine but I have not.

If you are primarily making 45° cuts, almost every saw has a stop that allows it to pretty much snap into location if you are running a little blind from the zero clearance table.

The fence should be tall enough to provide support for the full height of your particular trim. This provides back support for a clean cut the full height of your trim or moulding piece.

I keep the auxiliary table in place by attaching with screws from the backside of the chopsaw fence through predrilled factory holes.



You may notice that I have a laser on my chopsaw and it is very accurate. But I find that the saw blade's own path on the sacrificial table and fence provides the best indication of where to position the piece for my intended cut.

*Making the Cut*

When performing a cut, hold the piece firmly and, very importantly, adjust your feed rate to provide the most controlled action. Advancing the cut too quickly raises the chances that the small piece can be grabbed out of control. The best thing to do is let the blade be the guide by appling just enough pressure to let the blade advance at it's own rate.

Installing a premium blade for detailed cutting will provide the best results and aid in making cuts more safely. It is the same principle that a sharp knife or chisel is safer to use than a dull one.



When cutting stock I prefer to mark for a cut, cut close to it, then creep up on the final cut. This provides me with the best results for a clean and accurate cut.



*A Cautionary Statement*

Cutting small pieces tends to place your appendages closer to the blade consistently more than general cutting and this ramps up the risk factor. The zero clearance table helps control small pieces and reduce the risks associated with this type of work.

Use extreme caution and common sense. If it does not feel safe, then that alone will raise your personal risk.

*Share the Love~Share the Knowledge*


----------



## studie (Oct 14, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


Great safety & accuracy tip! I used to cut small pieces "almost through" then finish the cut with a sharp knife or fine saw. Now I use a clamp on the out feed side & just make the cut, sooo much faster. Thanks for sharing, Like the backstop lining up with the true cut of the blade path.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


Thanks Todd


----------



## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


Todd,

I use a 100 tooth aluminum cutting blade to make small moulding cuts. The cut is satin smooth and clean. The advantage is that the 100 tooth blade is not as aggressive a blade and thus does not grab the trim as readily. You might give it a try sometime. Note that this is for small trim. The trick I use is to use a sacrificial zero clearance board that is clamped to the fences and then cut through. This will eliminate almost any problems with the off fall piece shooting around the room.


----------



## nmkidd (Sep 18, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


Thanks for the safety tips.


----------



## CarverRog (Jan 31, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


Todd, I found that if I apply double stick tape where the small piece will site when cut it helps not only physically but mentally.


----------



## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


*Thanks for the tip Todd.*


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


Very good and helpful blog Todd. I always set up a fence/zero clearance plate like yours for small pieces. The thing I don't like is having to make new ones all the time and waste materials. I have an idea for a reusable one for any cutting angle, including a compound angle. It's just in my head now, but if I am able to actually make something that works I will post it with a plan. This would at least save some materials. I hope I'm not getting in over my head.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


Stefang - Be sure to let me know when you post that one. I am interested in seeing your version.

My tables are always made from scraps and when it is disposed of we collect the heat value out of it in our wood burning stove in the house. So I don't mind making them, and I am not sure that it is worth over-thinking.


----------



## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


I'm like you Todd. Make a new one everytime I need one and throw the old one out.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


Todd and Jerry. I can understand your attitude to making new fences all the time. I'm sure that as professionals that you have limited time to use on conserving materials. The thing is, here in Norway a 3/4" platter of MDF costs close to $90. I have no idea what it costs in the States, but I would bet it is less than half of what I pay. Plus, since I don't sell my stuff, it's pure expense, and I can't therefore factor in and recover material waste expenses. I suspect quite a few LJ members are in a similar situation except for Norway's ultra high prices where the government takes a 25% added value tax for the sale of almost goods and services.

If I do come up with something, I will try to make it very simple. I do have my doubts about success, but it will be fun to give it a try. Keep tuned.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


notottoman - YIKES!

Stefang - You bring up a very good point. I have to measure my materials cost against making a new one. I have often been asked to salvage lumber out of walls that I tear out, but I can buy 2×4's cheaper than if I take the time to clean them up.

If 3/4" MDF cost me as much as it does you, I would rethink the situation. I don't know what the conversion rate is from US to Norway currency is, but I currently pay about $35 for a sheet of 3/4" MDF. I was just thinking this was high because it was not long ago I paid $28 for it.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


This is turning out to a very valuable blog for a lot of people Todd. I first learned about the need for an auxiliary in an FWW article a few years ago before I acquired a mitersaw. It's easy to assume that everybody is aware of the safety and good cutting it provides, but in fact this is a better place to make it known since there are so many LJ members and many of them are new to woodworking.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip, Todd.


----------



## hasbeen99 (Sep 16, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


Nice tip! I've often thought about making a zero clearance insert & fence for my miter saw, specifically after getting bitten by small cutoffs flying about.


----------



## DAC (Dec 7, 2012)

toddc said:


> *Cutting Small Pieces on the Compound Miter Saw*
> 
> *A Challenging Situation*
> 
> ...


you just solved a very big problem for me. Thankyou very much


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

*Improved Support With Roller Stands *

Like many woodworkers, you will find roller stands in my shop for extra material support. I do not like the single roller stands, I prefer the stands that provide support with 3 or 4 rollers. This type of roller stand provides a larger surface and better support.

The particular set of roller stands that you see here is the Craftsman brand from Sears. They cost about $70 each several years ago.



But I am still not satisfied with the performance of roller stands on their own. One of the problems is that they will guide your work askew from the intended direction if it is not perfectly aligned to feed straight into the blade. Ball bearing type roller stands will help with this problem but I have a solution with an added benefit.



My solution was to make a table top surface that could be placed over the roller stands. The surface is made from tempered masonite hardboard and hard maple was used to create a simple frame. The frame captures the roller stand and stays in place.

I could have made a small table surface to cover one set of roller stands, but I needed more table surface than one would provide. I created the table top 6 feet long and wide enough to cover the roller stands. Before I had permanent and solid infeed/outfeed tables for my tablesaw, I used this set up on both ends of the tablesaw. The benefit of this for a small shop that is sharing space with cars or in a basement, is that it is flexible and can be stored when not in use and easily set up when needed.

This system does require the purchase of more roller stands, but it provides a lot of table surface. As I stated before, I had to use this system before I set up permanent tables and I actually used it for several years.

Two roller stands are set up in line with each other and the height is adjusted according to the needs of the specific tool being used.



Next I place the table top on the roller stands.



For the outfeed support I prefer the leading edge of the table is lower than the surface of the tool's table. A straightedge tells the story.





I only used the full setup for the outfeed on this project, but I have another roller stand and table surface for a full setup on the infeed side if needed as well.





Full and proper support on the infeed and outfeed of a saw will increase safety and provide better results through better control.



Not everybody has the luxury and space of a full dedicated shop space so this could be a solution that will work for you, or it may lead you to a solution better suited to your needs.

*Share the Love~Share the Knowledge*


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Improved Support With Roller Stands *
> 
> Like many woodworkers, you will find roller stands in my shop for extra material support. I do not like the single roller stands, I prefer the stands that provide support with 3 or 4 rollers. This type of roller stand provides a larger surface and better support.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip, Todd. Roller stands have a place in most shops and, once their disadvantages are overcome, are pretty useful at supporting long/heavy stock.


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## croessler (Jun 22, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Improved Support With Roller Stands *
> 
> Like many woodworkers, you will find roller stands in my shop for extra material support. I do not like the single roller stands, I prefer the stands that provide support with 3 or 4 rollers. This type of roller stand provides a larger surface and better support.
> 
> ...


Todd, 
Thanks for the tip, I do like the idea. I have one question though; What make/model of roller stand is that?


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## charlie48 (Sep 21, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Improved Support With Roller Stands *
> 
> Like many woodworkers, you will find roller stands in my shop for extra material support. I do not like the single roller stands, I prefer the stands that provide support with 3 or 4 rollers. This type of roller stand provides a larger surface and better support.
> 
> ...


Todd,
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. I will have the perfect spot for this tip.


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## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Improved Support With Roller Stands *
> 
> Like many woodworkers, you will find roller stands in my shop for extra material support. I do not like the single roller stands, I prefer the stands that provide support with 3 or 4 rollers. This type of roller stand provides a larger surface and better support.
> 
> ...


Good tip Todd. I'm impressed with your re-sawing result. Looks straight and square and clean. Great testimonial.
It is really persuading me now to place BS on top of my wishlist!


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## donbee (Feb 7, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Improved Support With Roller Stands *
> 
> Like many woodworkers, you will find roller stands in my shop for extra material support. I do not like the single roller stands, I prefer the stands that provide support with 3 or 4 rollers. This type of roller stand provides a larger surface and better support.
> 
> ...


Todd,

I, too have had occasional problems with the rollers skewing the work. While it isn't always the case, I have the solution for the problem.

Shop made roller stands that employ ball rollers, not cylindrical ones. They roll in any and all directions and won't "steer" the work.

Another shop built stand I have uses small caster wheels, which also will not steer the work.

Best regards,

d


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## FenceWorkshop (Nov 5, 2009)

toddc said:


> *Improved Support With Roller Stands *
> 
> Like many woodworkers, you will find roller stands in my shop for extra material support. I do not like the single roller stands, I prefer the stands that provide support with 3 or 4 rollers. This type of roller stand provides a larger surface and better support.
> 
> ...


Those rollers make all the difference. Your shop is awesome.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Improved Support With Roller Stands *
> 
> Like many woodworkers, you will find roller stands in my shop for extra material support. I do not like the single roller stands, I prefer the stands that provide support with 3 or 4 rollers. This type of roller stand provides a larger surface and better support.
> 
> ...


Don - You are correct in that the roller bearing type stands won't steer the work in the wrong direction. But this has the added benefit of creating much needed table surface and it is easy to store away.

Chris - These roller stands came from Sears and they cost about $70 when purchased several years ago.


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Improved Support With Roller Stands *
> 
> Like many woodworkers, you will find roller stands in my shop for extra material support. I do not like the single roller stands, I prefer the stands that provide support with 3 or 4 rollers. This type of roller stand provides a larger surface and better support.
> 
> ...


Good idea.

Its worth mentioning that you can do the same thing with the single roller stands on a smaller scale. I did something similar with mine when I was ripping lots of strips on the table saw. You just have to make sure your makeshift outfeed table is rigid.

I must say that lumber along with the bulging muscles sure makes you look like a badass.


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Improved Support With Roller Stands *
> 
> Like many woodworkers, you will find roller stands in my shop for extra material support. I do not like the single roller stands, I prefer the stands that provide support with 3 or 4 rollers. This type of roller stand provides a larger surface and better support.
> 
> ...


Blake - How does this intro sound?

"Hi - I'm Todd Clippinger and Welcome to the BadAss Craftsman Workshop"


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## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Improved Support With Roller Stands *
> 
> Like many woodworkers, you will find roller stands in my shop for extra material support. I do not like the single roller stands, I prefer the stands that provide support with 3 or 4 rollers. This type of roller stand provides a larger surface and better support.
> 
> ...


Get a room you guys..


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

toddc said:


> *Improved Support With Roller Stands *
> 
> Like many woodworkers, you will find roller stands in my shop for extra material support. I do not like the single roller stands, I prefer the stands that provide support with 3 or 4 rollers. This type of roller stand provides a larger surface and better support.
> 
> ...


I find the rolloer stands very useful as well. Thats is one heavy duty solution Todd.


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## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

toddc said:


> *Improved Support With Roller Stands *
> 
> Like many woodworkers, you will find roller stands in my shop for extra material support. I do not like the single roller stands, I prefer the stands that provide support with 3 or 4 rollers. This type of roller stand provides a larger surface and better support.
> 
> ...


I like your solution Todd. Very well thought out.


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