# Hand drill Ferrule repair



## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

Hi all,

I and trying to rehab this hand drill for my dad. It has a wooden handle attached with a metal ferrule and what looks like a pin (or two, It either goes all the way through, or there is one on each side, I can't tell).

Does anyone know how it might be attached and the best way to tighten it. it is loos and the handle wobbles. So I'm wondering if it can be removed, or tightened without removal. I guess I just don't understand how it is put together.

Thanks! Here's the pic:


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## TobyC (Apr 7, 2013)

Pin should tap out, shaft is threaded but the wood threads in the handle are probably stripped.


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## wallachuck (Apr 28, 2013)

The shaft is not likely threaded but may have some serrations or ridges around the shaft where the pin goes through. The shaft is only a couple inches long. You will probably need to remove the pin and pull the handle off straight and then see what can be done to tighten the hole for the shaft.

Chuck


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

That's what I like to see…solid consensus!


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## TobyC (Apr 7, 2013)

Either way, drive out the pin and take the handle off, and take out the slop.


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## TobyC (Apr 7, 2013)

I don't know what you have , but some are threaded.


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## MisterInquisitive (Aug 29, 2012)

All the eggbeaters I've seen have threaded stud to go into the handle. I drove out the pin, drilled out the recess in the handle, glued a new piece of dowel in there, and re-drilled the hole a little undersized so that the threads would act like a self-taping screw. Then re-drilled for the pin and either used the old one or peined over a nail for the new pin, can't remember. Still tight today.


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

Update: I drove out the pin, and the handle did indeed screw off…not sure what kind of drill it is yet, perhaps I will find some markings once I clean it up.


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## TobyC (Apr 7, 2013)

Like this?


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## TobyC (Apr 7, 2013)

Look on the flat part of the handle, might be a Millers Falls No. 1.


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## TobyC (Apr 7, 2013)

No. 1

No.1 hand drill Single-speed hand drill

ca. 1900 - malleable iron frame; cocobolo head and crank handle; detachable, egg-shaped side handle; screw-type adjustable equalizer bearing; McCoy's springless chuck adjustable from 0 to 3/16 inch; shipped with eight fluted drill points. Drive gear and frame are black enameled; bright parts are nickel plated.
by 1904 - teardrop-shaped side handle
1910 - as above, but detachable, mushroom-shaped side handle; star-type trademark on crank.
1912 - as above, but ball thrust bearing on spindle.
1914 - as above, but tropical hardwood head and handles
1915 - as above, but drive gear is painted red.
1917 - as above, but cocobolo head and handles.
1921 - as above, but triangular trademark; head is cocobolo, side and crank handles are not.
1925 - as above, but Ryther's chuck adjustable from 0 to 1/4 inch.
1931 - as above, but trademarks display Greenfield, rather than Millers Falls location.
1935 - as above, but tropical hardwood head; no mention of screw-type adjustable equalizer bearing; detachable chef's cap side handle.

Millers Falls


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

Next question, the chuck (3 jaws) advances when tightened, but doesn't retract when loosed….i have to push them down manually…any thoughts?


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## Wally331 (Nov 8, 2012)

put a few drops of oil into the jaws, then run the mechanism back and forth quite a few times, there is most likely just a ton of dried debris in there. Some chucks you can screw totally off and use a dowel , pressing it into the hole where the chuck screws on, this pushes the jaws forward and back and will let you better work the oil into the mechanism.

Worst case scenario and you have broken springs which can be very difficult to find and/or make.


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## TobyC (Apr 7, 2013)

It's a springless chuck, clean and oil, they're not going to spring open on their own but they should be free to flop loose.


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## TobyC (Apr 7, 2013)

So, is it a No. 1?


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

I read elsewhere that some early drills did not have spring loaded jaws, and that may be the case here…It certainly looks like a no. 1, but I see no markings. It has the hollow handle for bit storage, and the slightly tapered frame like the 1, and while I thought it was all black, cleaning did expose a red wheel…

My dad may not use this much if the jaws prove too much trouble, and I already have a MF 2500 for my own use.


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## MisterInquisitive (Aug 29, 2012)

If your model has missing springs, you can use flint springs from used up bic lighters. Just snip them to size; they fit in the provisions for the old springs. You can usually unscrew the back of the chuck to access the jaws, but you have to be careful with the wrench. Wrap the chuck in leather or something similar so you don't strip the knurling. The opposite side will have a flat that you can put into a vise, or a pair of holes for the pins of a spanner wrench. I think you can get an adjustable type from harbor freight or you can improvise your own with perhaps some appropriately sized nails in a board or 2×4. And use a lubricant such as PB blaster, kerosene, liquid wrench, sewing machine oil or what have you to soak in there for a few hours or a couple of days at least. Slow and steady. . . If you do this you can sand any rust from the jaws and the bearing surface for them as well as the spring carrier whatchamacall it. One way to keep those parts lubricated without dirt-attracting oil is to melt paraffin or candle wax or put paste wax on them, them rub it off. The wax will let the parts glide without being sticky, like oil.


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## 12strings (Nov 15, 2011)

Ok, I'm done with what I'm going to do…There is still no hint that the jaws will retract on their own, but now they are easily movable with my fingers. The handle is no longer loose, and now at least the drill functions, after inserting an extra washer on the main wheel…I think a piece may be missing there, as well as the side knob, and I think the crank handle and square-headed bolt were added later.

I'll give it back to dad so he can put it back in the basement for another 30 years.


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