# Skill Building



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Mitered Dovetails Anyone?*

Every project's layout phase, for me, is like spring training - what happened last season is a foundation to build upon; all things are possible when starting fresh. And it's also an opportunity to set goals that, upon further review, seem almost unattainable. I find myself in that situation right now on something in the shop that's been underway for a couple weeks.

One specific joinery element I've decided to incorporate into the build is the mitered dovetail joint. Late last year I did the 'dovetail a day' project and got to Day 24 before I was confident enough to build a drawer in white oak using half-blind dovetails. Those joints went well and the finished product was better than I had hoped for. But now mitered dovetails… Uhg. As my wife's aunt tells me quite often, "You sure like to aggravate yourself!"

Last night I tried cutting the joint, and in a word the first run was AWFUL. On-line research last night says cut three of them and the joint will then be yours. Guess I need to double down (triple down?) and get to work, 'lest my season's goals not be met!

VR,
Kurt


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## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails Anyone?*
> 
> Every project's layout phase, for me, is like spring training - what happened last season is a foundation to build upon; all things are possible when starting fresh. And it's also an opportunity to set goals that, upon further review, seem almost unattainable. I find myself in that situation right now on something in the shop that's been underway for a couple weeks.
> 
> ...


No pictures? Then it didn't happen… <grin>

Be Careful!

Herb


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*

Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:

First, set gauge:










Mark tailboard w/ miter:














































Mark, knifeline and cut mitered edge:




























Using coping saw to clear the pin 'waste' between the tails:























































All Clean!










Now for the challenge. Hard to scribe cutlines on the pinboard because of the miter cut:



























Cutting the pin board miters:


















Clearing pin waste:


















How's it look? Second try:



























And now, to the pile with the rest of them!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


Good blog ,well done


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


Look at all the book ends you have made.

Great blog


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## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


Very nice step by step example of how it's done.
Fine job.
Thanks.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


It worked !! Nice tutorial. Where would yoiu use these? I don't think I have ever seem them before.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


@Topo - I'm building a low-profile tool cabinet to sit under the Roubo bench in my shop, and the plan is to fab a frame and panel back that gets a compound rabbet joint with the carcase to join the two. The mitered dovetail joint accomodates that carcase rabbet. (At least that what I've read from Robert Wearing, and he ought to know). 

@Others - Thanks for the positive feedback!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


it seems to mee you are ready for the real chanlange 
of making hidden dovetails …....  not joking here ….. but I´m still ducking ..lol

take care
Dennis


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


@Dennis - I love the challenge of blind dovetails - just can't figure mastering them just to hide the result!  thanks for the confidence!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


I allso do strugle alot with them before …. LOL and just cuold figur out how to do them
but but when we had this little great 24 hours meeting in Copenhagen me Mads and Thomas 
in the autumn I was given a french book with drawings about how to do them
and I did saw a blog somewhere on the net (can´t remember where ) :-(
but it has make my want to try again as soon as I have restored my tools 
I know many wuold say why the H… do all that nice work just to hide it from others ,
and that is one out of two things that you ain´t see them on L J I think

for me its both the chanlange and saying why not …. lol little like when a climber is asked why they do it
becourse the mauntain is there they allways reply … lol

as I understand it ( I still have to master the dovetail ha ha ) it shuoldn´t bee more difficult to do
the blinddovetail the hard trick is to make the miter with the correct angle and its done with a cheisel

but if you can wait a year or two…..I will give it a try and make a blog

take care
Dennis


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


@Dennis - Okay, okay… A challenge then, between you and me  to each post blind dovetails on LJ before the end of 2011… I'm up for it if you are. "Because they are there," right? (love it!)


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## Alster (Aug 7, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


I don't know how married you are to tails-first dovetailing, but I think you could avoid the guesswork on the tailboard-to-pinboard transfer if you cut your pins first.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


@Alster - You might be right that pins-first makes more sense w/ mitered dovetails… I'll give it a try.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


Smitty …. that wood be a chalange of the big one for me I don´t even kow a word of frence … LOL
but if I get time for it I will strugle the rest of the year with the frence …. ( I think I buy a translater
to do some typing ) ha ha ha …. top I´m in to see if its posiple to do it before new year 2011

Dennis


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


OOH BOY what have I talked myself into …......

take care
Dennis


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## SwedishIron (Jun 6, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


Smitty_C.. great post. Another tip you can try next time to get those miters absolutely perfect is to leave them a bit too proud from the beginning so that when you start your test fitting for your cleaned up pin and tail boards the faces of the two miters need a bit trimmed off them and won't allow that last 1/32" of an inch for the dovetails to tighten up all the way.. With the miters tightly together, use the thin kerfed saw to saw down the middle of the miter one or two times, removing a little material at a time to get them just right.. If you take your time you should be able to get the dovetails and miter to come together tight without any without any gaps. That is a tough joint given how unforgiving it can be matching up everything.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


@Scott - Wow, love that idea, and can see alot of promise in that approach when the chips are down. Thank you for the input.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


Guess I'm not a woodworker yet? I had to google Robert Wearing ;-(


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


@Topo - You and I both know it's not reading that makes us woodworkers (or wood butchers, or etc. etc.) but doing! I see the crazy good stuff people are doing here and there's two ways to look at it all: to inspire me to do better / more; or give up. Well, I'm still here so it's a-forward-we-will-go!  Thanks for the input, hope the description of how I plan to use the joint on the backside of the cabinet made sense. I have pictures of the material prep that's been done so far, and the plan is to definitely put the project on LJ, warts and all, when I get further down the path.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


Maybe I missed something but why not mark out the pins and tails before cutting the mitres? The only way I seem to be able to make dovetails if I get a mommy and a daddy dove together…a little music a little wine and then wait…LOL!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


@Mark - It's the outside of non-cut that can't be used to swap marks because it isn't cut / no void to stick the pencil into until there's at least a bevel space. Unless I'm really missing something in your question. I did the pins-first method as well, and it worked better at first, but now I've gone back to tails and have a method of marking and cutting that I'll post in blogged project in the not-so-distant future that's working for me. If you try what you suggest, pls take some pics and send (or post); I'm always up for any way that's successful AND repeatable. Thanks for looking!


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


I see how it would be difficult to mark the pins or tails after they are cut, I was just thinking cut the pins and tails first and then mitre it, but after thinking about it that would dramatically change the geometry of the pins and tails so wouldn't work. I'm going to have to play around with dovetails and see what I come up with.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


Mark, I did it on my wife's treasure chest for school display just to see if I could. During lay out I was surprised by some of the dramatic angles, but it works ;-)


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


I really want to get to the shop to fool around with this joint, but shop time is a rare commodity while this flooding lasts.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


Repaired pics / rescued post from Photo (Scum) Bucket.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


Somewhere about the 30th Jefferson Bookcase I built, I started doing the following order for the dovetails:

1. Gang-cut the tails, numbering the corners on one of the inside surfaces of the DT so I don't get the order wrong
2. Transfer corner 1 to the pins, and cut the pins for corner 1
3. Cut the miters for both tail and pin on corner 1, and cut the rabbet for the back of the case on the tail board between corners 1 & 4.
4. Transfer corner 2 to the pins, and cut those pins
5. Cut the miters for both pins and tails for corner 2, then cut the rabbet between corners 1 & 2

And work my way around the case. When I was done with all four corners and all four rabbets, I would test assemble with the back, tuning any rabbets that needed work, and also cutting the ship-lap between multiple back-boards if it wasn't a size that worked for a single board.

Seemed to work pretty well once I got into that rhythm, and it's definitely easier to transfer from tails to pins (or vice-versa, I would imagine) before mitering the corners. I also did all the miters freehand, as I had marks from the layout to show me where the miter needed to be.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails, Part Two*
> 
> Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures:
> 
> ...


Hats off to you for those bookcases - I watched, and was amazed. You are no doubt the expert at this joint. When I do them next, I'll revisit that process for sure!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Mitered Dovetails - Part Three of Three*

Lots of great input on the second installment of this mini-serial; how will it end??

For the third rehearsal of the joint, I took on the tails-first method suggested by @Alstar:

Start with a pin board, cut and trimmed and mitered.









Trace to tailboard, which is easier with pins that are mitered:









Then cuts done to tailboard:










And it assembled pretty well!



















Some smoothing or block plane action to clean things up and it's not far from good.

And for one additional suggestion, kudos to @Scott. And that is to cut the bevels/ miters long, or past the hard 90 to allow a thin kerf'd saw to remove the excess and draw it all together:










That's all for now… As for me, I think I'm ready as I'll ever be to use this joint in a project. Thanks for viewing!


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## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails - Part Three of Three*
> 
> Lots of great input on the second installment of this mini-serial; how will it end??
> 
> ...


Those look awful pretty to me !


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails - Part Three of Three*
> 
> Lots of great input on the second installment of this mini-serial; how will it end??
> 
> ...


Awesome.

Just … awesome.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails - Part Three of Three*
> 
> Lots of great input on the second installment of this mini-serial; how will it end??
> 
> ...


Good looking tails even if they are on a 45. Nice joinery.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails - Part Three of Three*
> 
> Lots of great input on the second installment of this mini-serial; how will it end??
> 
> ...


Those look pretty good form here. A couple light whacks with a ball pien will tighen up any tiny gaposis.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Mitered Dovetails - Part Three of Three*
> 
> Lots of great input on the second installment of this mini-serial; how will it end??
> 
> ...


Restored post's pictures (got them away from Photo (Scum) Bucket. Smitty


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Raised Panels with the Stanley #78*

Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a 'raised panel' drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way.

First step was to check the iron. I bought the plane probably more than a year ago and my sharpening skills have improved since then, so it was a natural place to start because "sharp fixes everything" and I'm going to be cutting across the grain… The back had to be flattened, but fortunately for me it was concave in the right way. A bit of work through the DMTs had it looking a bit weird, but good.










Did a primary surface sharpening, no secondary bevel or back bevel, by working through all the stones then finishing up with some polishing rouge. Hard to show a good edge with a camera phone, but the reflection shows on this one. We're ready to get cutting.









To cut a raised panel is to mark the work for the end product. I jointed the edges of the panel stock w/ the #6, then scored lines on the edges and face to mark the extent of the cuts.

















Set the fence of the #78 so the iron runs out as far as you want it on the face. For me it was totally subjective; I wanted a wide bevel so set it that way.









Then it's time to cut. First across the grain,

















Then along the sides.









The work itself is straightforward. Angle the tool and work down to the lines along the edge of the panel as well as face, trying to get to both of them at the same time for a most uniform bevel. This would be a drawer bottom, though, so however it comes together is pretty much good. Some finished shots, from removing it from the hold downs to views of the face and edges.

































The #78 did the job well, I'd say. Thanks for reading!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Raised Panels with the Stanley #78*
> 
> Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a 'raised panel' drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way.
> 
> ...


I may have missed it in a previous blog but what wood are you using? Also, did you find it difficult to maintain a consistent angle?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Raised Panels with the Stanley #78*
> 
> Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a 'raised panel' drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way.
> 
> ...


It's the Rodney Dangerfield of moving fillisters.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Raised Panels with the Stanley #78*
> 
> Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a 'raised panel' drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way.
> 
> ...


Scott - I'm cutting on 1/2" clear pine, scrap from the drawer sides material I'm using on the Roubo Cabinet. Angle isn't a big deal, just cut until you reach the scored lines; the ones on the edges are the finished thickness in the rails, stiles and/or drawer side dados, depending on where the panel is going. A big key is having a sharp blade, for sure…


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Raised Panels with the Stanley #78*
> 
> Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a 'raised panel' drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way.
> 
> ...


great post. I don't have a 78 yet but its been on my list for a while. I wonder how it would work if you set the fence to make the lip close to the edge (the part that slides into the groove)?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Raised Panels with the Stanley #78*
> 
> Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a 'raised panel' drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Don. I don't think it'd be a problem to change the size of the bevel or make a cut more rabbet-like, it's whatever the user wants to do. Set your lines, and start working; it took less than five minutes to complete this sample drawer bottom.

The most commonly raised issue w/ the 78 is it's fence, and the fact that it rides on one rod when higher end tools use two. On hardwoods, it may be that the fence is hard to keep in place. I've done rabbets and now a raised panel with the tool, but always in pine. Fence didn't budge / was totally a non-issue.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Raised Panels with the Stanley #78*
> 
> Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a 'raised panel' drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way.
> 
> ...


Looks good. I do not think I would have tried it with a #78. I've always considered the #78 more of a tool for rough work. One of the early LumberJocks made a panel raising plane to do this. I went back and found a photo of it…










http://philsville.blogspot.com/2007/06/taa-daa.html


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Raised Panels with the Stanley #78*
> 
> Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a 'raised panel' drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way.
> 
> ...


Oo, that is a pretty nice plane. Much easier on the eyes than a #78, for sure.

I see the step part you were talking about earlier. The quick and dirty I demo'd obviously doesn't do that, so in a nutshell that's the difference between a bonafide panel plane and a #78 playing at being a panel raiser!

Great picture indeed. Don't know which I like the most, the plane or all those pretty shaving or the raised panel profile!


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Raised Panels with the Stanley #78*
> 
> Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a 'raised panel' drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way.
> 
> ...


Phil makes some nice stuff… His LJ projects are here… He has not been all that active here for a while.

http://lumberjocks.com/philsville/projects


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## rfusca (May 9, 2013)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Raised Panels with the Stanley #78*
> 
> Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a 'raised panel' drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way.
> 
> ...


The pics don't seem to shoe here for me anymore.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Raised Panels with the Stanley #78*
> 
> Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a 'raised panel' drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way.
> 
> ...


Pictures should re-appear within a day or so (stupid photobucket…)


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## Buckethead (Apr 14, 2013)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Raised Panels with the Stanley #78*
> 
> Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a 'raised panel' drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way.
> 
> ...


Smitty… You da man. Thanks for linking to this, Don. We relative noobs missed much.

Raised panels…. Frikkin cool stuff.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Raised Panels with the Stanley #78*
> 
> Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a 'raised panel' drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way.
> 
> ...


Replaced CHUMBUCKET pics because that piece-o'-crap app finally crashed.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*

I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?

Presenting furring strip and cabinet:









There's a slight overhang to the top vs. the face of the case, 









so the trim piece needs a shallow rabbet. I'll use the Stanley #78 moving fillister / rabbet plane. Held the plane to the top to set the fence and to the face to set depth stop. Needed a single bench hold down to keep the piece in place for rabbeting (piece of sycamore underneath to raise the stuff being worked higher off benchtop, for the #78 fence to clear) and get to planing:


















Edged jointed the piece with the #6 because of a recent LJ poster wanting to know if that tool is suitable for jointing. It did fine!









Cleaned up the show face of the board with the non-cambered #5:









Slight chamfer to each corner of the top edge with the SW #120 block just because I just reconditioned the tool. It has a very tight mouth and I kinda like the paddle-type depth adjuster.









With a final cut to length, I predrilled it for nailing, apllied a coat of Watco's Danish Oil (on-hand and easy) and it was done.









A nice little diversion from the drudgery of cleaning a cluttered shop! Thanks for visiting.


----------



## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


Very nicely done and blogged !
I have a similar project in mind for a case and you may have just inspired me to take the 78 off the shelf

;-)


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


Excellent! I'm a fan of the #78, it's a very cool tool… Good luck!


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


show off!

I did alot of work with my new/old #78 this weekend. It worked OK but I still don't have a warm fuzzy for it yet.


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## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


yep, love the 78. Nice blog!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


Great show and tell Smitty. I have never seen Stanley tools stamped on the handle of a plane. Great blog.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


nicely done


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


Dave - Show and tell, I like that. Tool porn is another applicable phrase. Don't quote me on this, but decals appeared on Stanley tools from the mid-20s and continued for maybe a decade. I'm a sucker for that decal, and if it's a SW-marked tool (likely), all the more. Doesn't make them perform any better, of course, so you can call me crazy…


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


Mom in law has her dads 604 with decal still on the side of the tote..
I had it once for a tuneup and put a light coat of shelac over it for safekeeping..


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


oooo, decals on bedrocks… that's something I haven't seen much of at all, if I've seen any at all… very cool…


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


That trim is a significant aesthetic improvement to the cabinet - BTW.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


Thanks, Lysd. Bought it at auction with a single bid ($1) because no one wanted to haul it away (me included, at first). Not pretty, but when I figure in the amount of work it would take to build a suitable replacement, it's worth it to put a bit of lipstick on this pig. And now that it's got my attention, I might do some more enhancement to it over the remainder of the month.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


Nice tutorial Smitty, another reason to take my 78 off the shelf and use it.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


A guy on ebay a short while ago had brand new old decals for sale. I remeber they went for more than I'd pay for an old sticker. He had several still on the original backing.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


Don, if I would have seen that it would have been hard to resist taking them off the market. Like those SW stamps that were up for sale about six months ago… But they went for crazy money, too. Hope they're not being used to counterfeit.

It goes to show how far down the hand tool mindset I've gotten, Mauricio, when I see a need for a rabbet cut like this and automatically consider a #78 solution. I have a shaper with 1" jointer cutter that could be set up to do it, and with a couple of passes it would have been done. But the noise, dust and spinning cutter are detractors. And setup time would have been longer than what it took to complete the job with the hand tool. A dado blade on the table saw could work, but I only have a wobble blade, not a stacked set. Raise the blade and rip a width? I guess so, but not an optimal task for a table saw. Same setup challenge, too. With the #78, I held it twice up to the original piece to set the depth and then to set the fence. Cut the work to fit, and done.

Of course, no one reading this needs to be convinced. ;-)


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *More Fun with the #78 and Other hand Planes*
> 
> I have another recent post 'lamenting' underutilized space, so I've been in the shop to rededicate a large storage cabinet to fasteners. It's an old harware store case and needed a piece of face trim to dress it up a bit. Nothing fancy, just something missing, you know?
> 
> ...


Update to OP; CHUMBUCKET finally failing completely, had to re-paste all the pics.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*

Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?

First the flat stock, ready to go.









With the #45 set up and ready, an early key is to take multiple, shallow passes. Here's a scratch pass:









Start on the end of the piece, taking multiple passes while backing towards the other end of the board as the cut gets deeper.









So the end is done first, of course.









Wax on the skates is a godsend, BTW. It keeps things working!









And before you know it (about five minutes) it's ready for finishing!









Thanks for looking! Now get out those 45s and get busy!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


Wow that grain sure does look nice. Great job Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


Thanks, Super. Because they're flatsawn, the only way to get any grain revealed was to bead… It worked! I have the crown piece made, will take updated shop pics soon…


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


To me it looks like snake scales, it is a really nice wood to work with. I used it for the center and trestle legs on my mini bench. The edges of the bench look great.









The center is 2 6/4 slices and it made for a thick 3' slab but is not to heavy.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


I likes me that mini-bench (if I hadn't told you before) - great build!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


Really nice blog series.
Thank you.
Pictures say more than words, it is all so clear.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


Thanks, Mads! Happy Woodworking New Year to you!!!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


And a wonderful Woodworking New Year to you also!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


Replaced pictures in OP due to CHUMBUCKET failure. That app sux, and LJs still maintains instructions to use it. Terrible.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


LJ has lost it, it's really sad, I posted a video yesterday, now people on I-pads writes they can't see it, it has all fallen apart since Martin sold the site.
It's amazing with soo many users, that noting is done to update the site anymore, I have been offered a few times to get a personal site or be a part of other sites and the only thing keeping mere here, is years of dedication here, a lot of friendships, that I would miss and yes laziness, laughs.
Merry Christmas Smitty.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


Years of friendships, yes. Yours is one of those, Mads. 

Thanks for staying here with us die-hards, and putting up with the neglect offered by our site owners…

"Endeavor to persevere!"


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


Big smile my friend, thank you back.
"Endeavor to persevere!"


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


Thanks for updating some of these, Smitty! I've been going through old blogs here on LJs in the evenings, and they're much more fun when I can see some pictures, too.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


 Thx Dave!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *The Stanley #45 Multiplane and Door Trim*
> 
> Okay, added a wall to define my shop space for heating, etc. and included a pair of pocket doors. They're framed but need trim. Enter some spaulted (stained, really), flat-sawn sycamore. Dressed the edges and faces, needed something to dress them up a bit. How about a bead?
> 
> ...


I have all my blog pictures on my own server, so this means I can control it my self, but also that once I stop paying my bills, it is all gone…
Yes there are some good and bad things in LJ's system and a lot of blogs gets lost due to picture issues, at the end of the day, the internet is not much different from old magazines like this. 
Smiles.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*

I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.










What I tried was the Stanley #278. I set the fence to the baseline,










Did some cutting (sorry for the lack of solid shaving, I was in a hurry),










Results were very strong!



















The tool has a Special Purpose! ;-)

Thanks for looking!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


NICE!!!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


Next time, I'll use the rabbet first, before cutting the tails. I think I'm gonna like this!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


*What I tried was the Stanley #278*
.
Why wouldn't you, Smit That's why I love you.
.
This is actually pretty genius. I mean, you're going to reduce them anyway. Talk about a way to get a perfect strike line. I'm sold.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


Next time, I'll use the rabbet first, before cutting the tails.
I was curious about that…

Looks good though. I've been meaning to try this on some dovetails, but I haven't done many dovetails since my traveling till.


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


Very cool. I gotta get my 278 in working order now!


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


Great lesson Smitty.
Stanley at its finest.
Good JOB!


----------



## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


Crap…looks like I need to get me a 278! Very nice, Smitty! And nice blog!


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


Nice result Smitty


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


This the technique was used for the condor tails on my bench build. I found it quite useful. Transferring the tail marks onto the pin board is much easier and reliable.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


Exactly. I'm a believer.


----------



## AKSteve (Feb 4, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


oh I have got to try that, I have a #278 that is perfect for this! thanks for the tip.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


How deep do you make the rabbet?
This would mask any imperfection that might otherwise be visible in the inside corner.
Your chest refurb serie shows how panels can move (before refurb)
This rabett (if deep enoughà would provide a bearing surface that would prevent cuping of the pin boad toward inside (if the tail board has half tails at the edges).


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


How deep do you make the rabbet?
This would mask any imperfection that might otherwise be visible in the inside corner.
Your chest refurb serie shows how panels can move (before refurb)
This rabett (if deep enough would provide a bearing surface that would prevent cuping of the pin boad toward inside (if the tail board has half tails at the edges).


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


Sylvain, know that the idea to cut the rabbet comes from C. Schwarz (link in post above) and isn't mine, but it's not much more than a 32nd deep. Just enough to help 'register' or stabilize the pin board and mark it. That part of it I teally like. It can't hurt in addressing inside gaps either, as you suggest, but does add trimming of outside pins, post-glue up.

Bottom line is, I don't have a skewed rabbet plane, leaving me with the #78 to try (too big). Then I had the opportunity to pick up a #278, and this little operation may be it's niche for me.

AKSteve - let me know what you think when you try it!

Jay - they don't come up very often, but are cool. A shoulder plane with fence, kinda, and I've been goofing around with it for a couple months. Fun to use, good size.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


a skewed rabbet plane is the top of my want list.

question is vintage or LN or Veritas?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


I'm a believer that skew is good, but I'm not sure where is best applied. I'd like to do dado cuts on the skew. Toyed with the idea of a skewed block, but too $. Plow? Like the #46? More likely, vut I need another plow plane like I need another etc. etc. So I'm glad this exercise with the #278 went well. Saves $. . For now.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


i should have said a skewed rabbet block plane. That what I think I really want, although I've looked at these almost every time i open the catalog.










http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=59999&cat=1,41182,41192&ap=1


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


and I agree with you Smitty, the only thing holding me back is $$$


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


Those are exceptional tools, and very tempting.


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


Smitty,
I see in the pictures 1 & 5 hereabove you choose half-tails on the edges of the board.
I have posted a general question in the forum but have only received 2 answers.
Why have you chosen half-tails, as it appears that the common practice is to have half pins on the edges?
I wander what justify the common practice except tradition.
(I would appreciate your view but don't feel obliged to answer in my forum)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


I'd say 'tradition' based on appearance, but have no idea, really. I posted a more complete reply on your forum.


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


Smitty
Thank You,
more text in my forum


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


Man, I'm still catching up on all my biddies posts since I was out on vacation last week.

I just tried this with my 78, it was a mess because I was doing it on the big dovetails of my bench. The fence post reached but it pivoted because the fence wasn't under the plane. The knicker chewed up my base line.

The other thing I have done in the past is just chisel out a little V at the inside base/scribe line. But this mostly just helps in registering the pieces together for transferring the marks from the tails to the pins. It doesnt give you that nice seamless joint on the inside.

Great post Smitty. Really like your "exotic" collection of joinery planes.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


Maur, if you've got the #78 set for a very light shaving and very sharp, it should be able to do this without nicker. I'm growing more convinced as time goes by that nickers need to be short and exceptionally sharp to be effective. Long, as in the way they were shipped new, isn't helpful when making cuts. The grain needs to be scored, not cut, with each pass or you're just fighting the tool.

You know, you can do a rabbet with a shoulder plane only. About halfway through the post…


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


I havent tried that with my 92 yet. I need to give it a go. Thanks Smitty!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure how i missed this post but belated thanks for the info and insight.

I have been curious about this method since i read ATC. I have seen a few of you guys putting it into practice and it is always nice to read the opinions of you veteran woodworkers.


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


rabett without using a fence seems the way to go for mouldings.
see Matt Bickford site
http://musingsfrombigpink.blogspot.be/

As the Hollow and Round are more difficult to sharpen, he removes the bulk of the waste by making steps with rabetts.
Using a fence and depth stop does not seem practical for this.
Here is a video showing the method used by Smitty (with a simple rabett plane instead of a shoulder plane but the technique is the same):
http://musingsfrombigpink.blogspot.be/2010/12/rabbet-plane_09.html
Note that moulding is along the grain while for the dovetail the rabett is cross grain and the shoulder plane is probably better.


----------



## JGM0658 (Aug 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


The idea is not new, I have been doing it long before CS talked about it. It helps hide any gaps on the inside and it makes it appear as a perfect fit. On the other hand I might recommend you do the rabbet *before* you cut the tails, they way you are doing it you run the risk of spelching (blowing out) the corners since you are going across the grain.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


As I said in Post #2 above, and it bears repeating, the rabbeting shoudl be done before cutting the tails.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *An Excellent Tool for Dovetailing*
> 
> I've read about The Schwarz using a rabbet plane as a first step to dovetails, and it's made me think I need to get me the Veritas Skew Rabbet. With a little project I'm doing with #2 Son, I have recycled boards that needed cleanup.
> 
> ...


So cool!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*

Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.










A little work on the fine DMT showed it wasn't flat on the outer surface of either of the two nickers.










I worked each just enough to get the surfaces flat.










Then I carefully worked the primary bevels of each on the fine DMT. They've got a 'camber' to them already that I don't think is original, but I'm not removing more material than necessary to get an edge.










A half dozen swipes on the strop had the edges sharp and looking good. The nickers are now the shiniest parts on the plane.



















A marking knife made the start line and the plane followed the line pretty well. Kinda like a shoulder plane. And it that regard, I did adjust the iron to get it aligned with the nicker (more out than in, if you know I mean). That adjustment had a big impact on the end result.




























The cuts I made here though aren't the ones needed for a dovetail groove; those require the fence. And that is next time. No, I haven't successfully made a sliding dovetail joint with this tool yet. It's clearly Stanley's most complex hand plane, and I'm humbled by it. Stay tuned.


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


"It's clearly Stanley's most complex hand plane"

That's a pretty definitive statement. You really think so?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


I do. But it's based on not having used (or seen) a #196 in person, the only other that may be as strange.

EDIT: I also don't have a #55, and that is a bear to get working just right.

The #444, though, has fences that move on purpose, in use. That in itself makes it pretty unique. Imagine running a shoulder plane with a fence that slides up and down the side of the tool while you use it. Oh, and it pivots around a single set screw, too, while cutting under the start point. And this tool's reliance on nickers is to the extreme.

But what do I know? Maybe the definitive statement is more like an opinion. Good thing is, it should be a safe one in that most simply do not care about this plane or have interest in it.  But I do, and felt like blogging my way through the learning curve. I hope it ends with a sliding dovetail joint, but at this point that outcome isn't certain at all.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


If it is that crazy and odd in use. Will you do a video when you figure it out? I can't seem to wrap my brain around the way this works.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


we'll be watching.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


RG, a video is a good idea and I'll do it.

Is there a plane in your shop that you've spent more than a half hour on without figuring it out / producing results? ie: a smoothing smoother, or jacking jack, or scrub, or rebates with a moving fillister? I've logged about three hours with this dovetail plane and have yet to make a joint. It's not frustrating at all (I like the challenge) but more like fascinating. It's like starting over…


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Pretty cool Smitty. You know this reminds me of something I saw in Toplin's toolbox book. There is a guy who makes sliding dovetails by first cutting a dado and then making it a dovetail by hand with a side rabbet plane. I dont have a side rabbet plane to try it but it looked like an interesting method.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


There simply isn't a lot of info out there on this plane (that I've found, anyway) that includes its use. It's a collector's tool, normally. Even a guy on SMC that had three of them didn't reply to a direct query: Have you used any of them to cut a sliding dovetail joint?

Two different fences, four irons, two rods and two spur blocks on the #444.

Some have decried the woodworking maxim of five ways to do every operation. I suspect a couple of different ways to cut tails with this plane (henceforth referred to as The Beast). It's clear I need a copy of the dovetail 'map' Stanley put inside the lid of the original box, so I'll search for that tonight. From there it'll go something like this:


Anatomy of a Sliding Dovetail Joint
Key Components of the #444
Fettling a #444
Layout and First Cuts
Mates and Finishes
Conclusion

All subject to change, of course. But unless someone points it out here, this stuff doesn't exist out there. Leach did a video that supposedly includes one in use, but I've not seen it or heard anyone talk about said video. I guess that's why I'm finding this such a challenge.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


I thought a rabbet plane was tricky…this is just beyond me.


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


One word…routah


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


^ Elitist.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


fun toy….. 

enjoy Smitty 
Dennis


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


^ Classy Guy.

Thanks, Dennis!


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Chisel and saw for me…at least until Smitty explains how this contraption works.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


^ A fine, Galoot-ish approach.


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Just bustin' on ya, as usual. I am with Ryan, I am having a bit of trouble conceptualizing how this plane works.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Collecting shots, working the tool. Tonight, it became a skew shoulder plane.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


According to John Walter, the #444 is "a fantastic tool that works extremely well if the blades and spurs are sharp."

Garrett Hack in his Handplane Book calls the #444 "...one of the most daring and complicated planes Stanley ever made."


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


just send it to me and end your frustration!!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


And have you struggle? Perish the thought. Besides, I'm having too much fun!

Sole lapping, anyone?


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Gentlemen,
I don't think Patrick Leach shares your enthusiasm:

"Runner-up to the Mr. Stupid Plane Pageant (in the event that Mr. Stupid Plane can no longer remain in that role, the runner-up shall assume the position and do guest appearances either on a televised workshop program decorated in plaid or Vegematic infomercials). This is a plane that only a mother or Rube Goldberg could love."

kevin
edit link http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan14.htm


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Kevin, I like Patrick Leach. I'm a customer of his (more frequently than my pocketbook would care to admit at times), and would never have known this any many other planes even existed if it weren't for the hours I've spent perusing the pages of Blood and Gore. But I'll have to respectfully disagree that this is a stupid plane, runner-up or otherwise. Obsolete? Clearly. Overly ambitious? Probably. And that's what makes the sentence after the parens absolute truth; it's a Rube Goldberg. And most of what's available on the web on this tool is anecdotal and not 'first hand' when it comes to actual use.

I ain't out to change the world, just want to have some fun learning and talking about an obscure tool.


----------



## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


I didn't even know such a plane existed. I've been tinkering with my 46 to make a sliding DT "adjuster", but I never dreamed such existed to cut the groove too! Browns has one listed for $700-1000 that looks pristine. Where did you come across such a creature?
Don, I'll flip you for it when Smitty tires of the frustration.

DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Oh, Gents…. Tonight was a very, very good night.














































The first joint successfully made!


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Impressive Smitty.


----------



## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Woohoo, Smitty! Persistence wins out.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


This is friggin' amazing…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Can't pull the boards apart!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Oh Snap! Way to go Smitty! Now thats a cool tool.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Added a (previously sharpened) spur, got a much nicer cut!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


I bet that tool would let you tweak the joint to make it slightly tapered for a longer sliding dovetail?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Maur!

Just came in from the shop, did a second joint. So much to learn that make this more of a 'straight from the saw' activity vs. a 'cut it and tweak as required,' but that's part of the fun as well. What a night and day difference since I fettled the Beast.

Yes, I'm preparing a Post that will detail what I've been up to. In the meantime, I'm excited to get this far!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Set the batten for a taper, and you'll get a taper. No problem!


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


That's just cool. Can't wait for the explanation post.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


It's going to be a long one, and I'd like to include video (as promised), so it'll be awhile in the making. But thanks, RG, for the encouragement. Not many interested in this tool at this level because it's a collector piece. Wish that weren't the case, because it clearly works.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


you realize SWMBO is going to be angry, I need to find one of these. Think I'll write Patrick.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Tell Patrick I sent you, maybe it'll get me a discount next month…

Or not.



Lots of them out there with parts missing, so be an informed buyer. All the parts are needed to do the full range of cuts the tool is capable of.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Nice thing is that Patrick is clear about whats there and what's not. Last thing I got from him was a set of early pre depth stop 98 & 99. Exactly as advertised. Very trustworthy vendor.
Kevin


----------



## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Jealousy headed your way, Smitty!

Brown's auction has one if you have the $.
DanK


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


congrat´s smitty with the grooove 
I just read about it again in one of the handplanebooks 
the author say its one of the rarest stanley and is a bear to set up 
so you better get a full set of safebox´s next bigger than the first ….. )))))

Dennis


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


A problem with the rods as they came from St. James Bay Tool. What's wrong with this picture?










Yes, the threaded portion is not supposed to run through the body of the plane. They're supposed to look like this:










So off to my town's machine shop. For free (but I left $10 on the counter anyway), they cut the threads so the rods were the proper length. Then another problem surfaced: the fence wouldn't slide easily to the main body without considerable effort, so it took a wedged screwdriver action to free the two pieces when the work requiring the fence was completed. Not good. So, back to the machine shop this afternoon.

Which machine in the following picture do you think I enjoy more? (don't answer that…)










We opted to rheem the holes in the fence several ways, and several times, to get the plane working without binding and (most importantly) without deflecting (curving) when the fence was snugged up tight.










Again, no charge. Now it works much, much, much better.

Life in a small town, with a machine shop, is good.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


i need one of those big blue machines!!!

Oh, and glad you're back on track…..


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Don, you're supposed to a) not answer, or b) prefer the woodworking tool to the metal lathe…. Geez…


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Does it help if I had it it would be used to make woodworking tools?


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Or fix of course


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Yes, that's fine. 

Given your recent detour into infill planes, I should have known!


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


What is wrong with that picture is that you are wearing a yellow shirt to match the yellow hue of your #444.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Nice blog Smitty. You certainly tamed it buddy.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


That guy is the machinist, Scotty. Not me.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


You sir, are the best program on the airwaves/interwebs. 
Thank you.
Congratulations.
Well done.
More please.

"That guy is the machinist, Scotty. Not me. "- I beg to differ, unless he snuck into your shop and photographed himself lapping the sole of your #444 and holding your first successful joint produced with said plane.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Oh, the sleeve? Jeez, you guys are relentless in your analysis of all points in a pic. So, it's my cuff. It's an old St Louis Blues pullover, with yellow. Good shop shirt.

It's bad composition?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Took the weekend off, away from the Beast. Gotta get back on the How To post this week, but I have a question for the esteemed panel. Should it be a post, a blog entry or a review? I'm leaning towards the latter.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


i'd vote for a blog. I never really associate a review with a vintage tool.


----------



## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


+1 for blog. I think there will be enough info (and pics) for 2-3 entries. That would be really long as a single post.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Blog, fer sure
Kevin


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Kind of a difficult question. You are doing a tool review and how to use it. But for who…..

It depends on your target audience. If you are writing a how-to for like minded folks how follow your blogs already, then blog. If want to reach a broader audience and provide information to the infrequent consumer who is looking for a tool review on a #444, then tool review.

You could do both. I am interested to see the responses you get on the tool review venue.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Lysdexic, I'm not sure I agree. From what I've see in the review forum Smitty's 444 is shall we say a bit arcane. The odds of someone looking for a review to rationalize a purchase is remote at best. Blogging about it educates an audience who may at some point run across one and recognize it for what it is. Maybe a better idea to begin a separate forum of how to's for vintage hand tools. Just my .02!
Kevin


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


A blog series it is.


----------



## 7davenj88 (Feb 14, 2018)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Smitty,

I would like to get a copy of the high resolution picture showing the Stanley No. 444 dovetail detail dimensions for various thicknesses of wood. You mentioned it in your Lumberjack's 3-part discussion on the Stanley 444. If you could send it to [email protected] I would greatly appreciate it. I have recently acquired a Stanley 444 and I am trying to figure out how to set it up. I have seen various low resolution versions of the diagram online but none are readable.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Dave - thanks for the note, send the file (7MB) to the address provided. Good luck, let us know how it goes!


----------



## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


Would you please pay photo********************et so we can see your pictures?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


phuque no.

EDIT: Done, pictures restored to avoid PhotoChumBucket limitation.


----------



## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


I'm behind you on that one 100% Smitty. Don't know how a website can be so bad and still survive. Late to the party but I vote blog.

I've not cut many dovetail ploughs or dadoes with the 444 yet, but the crisp walls were elusive on the ones I did. Perhaps my very sharp scoring cutters are not extending enough. They tend to rock back in their holding slot under cutting pressure. How to hold them in place?

I've also had trouble getting a clean inside corner of the cross grain and parallel grain tail cuts. It's almost like the blade is rounded at the point, but it's as sharp as a needle. This, too, may be because of a short scoring knife? Or the blade not flush with the body on the left? Both were checked under magnification and seemed to be correctly in position, at least within limits of my magnified vision. My solution was to score the finished cut with a utility blade both vertically and horizontally and the removal of the scarf left a clean corner. I wish I could figure it out.

Almost any plane with a scoring knife seems not to leave a silky smooth wall. They are usable, but not silky smooth like after a single touch up pass with a 98 or 99 rabbet plane. Perhaps expecting a silky smooth wall from multiple passes with a firmly held but not completely free of human wobble is too much?

DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...





> Perhaps my very sharp scoring cutters are not extending enough.


I thought they were likely best performing when only slightly proud of the plane's sole



> They tend to rock back in their holding slot under cutting pressure. How to hold them in place?
> 
> DanK
> 
> - Dan Krager


YES, they do rock back and forth! So it's not just me, that's good to know, and it's another element to my "don't have them protruding too far from the sole' conclusion. Didn't I read you were going to try Krazy Glue as a possible remedy?


----------



## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


....might have, Smitty, but it didn't work.

DanK


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *A Dovetail Tongue and Groove Plane*
> 
> Last time I messed with the Stanley #444, the side walls of groove were pretty ratty. Not that they'd be seen, of course, but the product means the nickers aren't sufficiently sharp.
> 
> ...


HAhaHAhA! @ phuque no


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

*Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*

http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3

Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


----------



## tsangell (Jan 10, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


This guy refers to "High Art."

I think that about sums it up.


----------



## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


So many questions.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


Well he seems to like paint on wood, so you have that going for you.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


seems like his "High Art Practice" could use a little practice.


----------



## RonInOhio (Jul 23, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


And all of that out-pouring of the ever popular tortured artist effect cause he 
just couldn't figure out dovetails.


----------



## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


...had never really considered 'Duct Tape' as an artistic medium.

...design influenced by inadequate ventilation while spraying high V.O.C. finishes.

...gives a whole new meaning to 'disposable income'. (evidently I've thrown away a small fortune)

...hmmm, Painter's rags in a lucite cube, do I even have a proper space in my home to display one?

Smitty, you had to have searched the entire World Wide Web before you stumbled upon these treasures.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Grandpa Len


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


Ouch…my eyes are still hurting.


----------



## Farrout (Oct 6, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


Ah Haa, now I can tell my wife all that stuff is 'art'.


----------



## Enoelf (Mar 15, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


I think I may have accidentally thrown some "art" in the trash can.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


Am I really awake or is it just another nightmare!


----------



## ScaleShipWright (Mar 28, 2013)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


Where are the prices? I absolutely need to buy some


----------



## MrFid (Mar 9, 2013)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


Best laugh I've had today. I hope that guy stumbles upon this comment section someday, or this site in general. My favorite part is how he calls screws 'rotating hardware.' What a douche.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


Does anyone have proper space to display a lucite cube filled with painter's rags? 

Great insight by all comments thusfar.

I'm stunned at the pencil markings, in particular, on several of the pieces. Scratch a circle, drill a hole nearby. Really wish I had taken an art appreciation course in HS, because I know there's a name for that type of defiance. So bold, and haphazard, but certainly calibrated. Right?

And I'm just relaying the find from discussion on the Porch. Had to share here on LJs…


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


Which porch generates such finds?


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


I swear if that jaw bone makes a living selling stuff that we throw away on a daily basis under the false pretense of art ill track him down and throat punch him.

"Here's a cut off that I stirred some paint with and attached it to 2 L brackets" "Im basically Salvador Dali"


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


The OldTools list is known as the Porch. A very genteel bunch of Galoots that talk like we do, but via mailing list. Been around since the last century! Send OldTools mailing list submissions to:

[email protected]

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://ruckus.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
[email protected]

You'll get daily recaps of galoot discussion points and have a way to participate if you so choose. There's also a huge archive they maintain. All free of charge, and typically interesting.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


"genteel" - I could never sit on that porch but maybe they will allow me listen in.

Thanks Smitty.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


Jeez smitty, a blast from the past. I used to get those. It was a long time ago. I forgot all about them. Email must have changed and I just didn't miss 'em. Thanks.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


Quote "his works retain a pleasing formality and visceral elegance." End Quote

Yeah, right - whatever you need to tell yourself to feel OK.

Sheesh!


----------



## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


There is no accounting for taste (of lack thereof).


----------



## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


"pleasing formality and visceral elegance"

What a coincidence, that is just what I was thinking…


----------



## shampeon (Jun 3, 2012)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


His paintings are better than his objects. But I think the standard of craftsmanship we value here isn't very important to the artist. Which is fine.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


Never underestimate the value of duck tape in fine woodworking craftsmanship.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


What was that.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Smitty_Cabinetshop said:


> *Oh, my. I'm building the wrong stuff!*
> 
> http://www.gallerypauleanglim.com/Beech.html#3
> 
> Time to re-focus and find my inner minimalist and sense of visceral elegance so my work brings in real money…


That guy better be a starving artist. If he is making a better living than I am I'm going to sue my university for my money back.


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