# Alternative to a Wood-Mizer?



## Adamal

Does anyone know of a good way to take advantage of fallen trees without investing large amounts of money for something like a Wood-Mizer?

I've got a couple of acres surrounded by state park and I often have trees come down. Walnut and Maple mostly.

I'd love to find a way to slice them up into maybe 8/4 size and make some sawdust!

Thanks.


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## Dal300

Chainsaw mill.


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## crank49

Woodgears.ca has a set of plans for a DIY version of a Wood-Mizer.

A chainsaw mill is not cheap, takes a large powerful chainsaw, and is s l o w.

Google "home made saw mill" for some interesting options; and entertainment.


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## Post_Oakie

You might do a search for custom sawyers (like me). I've got a Norwood portable sawmill that I take to customers' locations. Check your state's Forest Products association for sawmills. I'll go with Dallas on this one. Chainsaw mills are a good option, but either way you'll get sawdust in your veins. It will start out "needing" bigger chain saws, and progress to tractors, on to your own sawmill. At least that's what happened to me. Yes they are slower than band saw mills, but if you have just a few logs, they are a good option. Where are you located?


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## dhazelton

Logosol chainsaw mill. The kerf is huge so you loose some wood, but it is affordable.


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## firefighterontheside

I have what is called a Haddon Lumbermaker. It attaches to your chain saw bar and rides on a 2 by4 that you attach to the log. It's a lot of work cutting lumber this way. Only use that occasionally. Now mostly I load up logs on a trailer and take them to a farmer I know with a mizer. He charges me very little and loves to talk. You might be able to find someone like that.


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## Loren

If you're going to saw it yourself, you're going to have to
invest in some equipment. The less you invest, the
harder you'll work to do the sawing.

An old fashioned alternative is buck the trees to board length
and split logs in half and then in quarters, depending on how
wide they are. A whole log will crack as it dries but a half
or a quarter log has a chance of drying into usable lumber.

http://heartofthewood.com/riving1.htm


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## gfadvm

I'm waiting for someone to buy and review the Harbor Freight bandmill as it is ALMOST in my price range.


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## Dal300

I agree *Andy!*

I'm saving my dimes and nickels so I can buy one.


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## shawnmasterson

I just checked HF and nothing comes up in the search


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## yrob

I can not find that sawmill anywhere on the harbor freight website. I wonder if its no longer available. Probably blew up in somebody's face and they stopped selling it..


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## gfadvm

I have seen their mill in their online site but can't find it tonight.

Discontinued?


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## Dal300

*Shawn*, I tried a dozen different methods and searchs and cannot get more than 17 items to come up for any search at HF.


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## WDHLT15

The Harbor Freight bandmill is made in China and is not much more than a toy. It will not hold up over the long haul. Trees are big, green, heavy, green, big, and heavy. You would be much better off hiring a portable sawyer to come in and saw your logs. Most charge in the $.35/BF range. That is cheap versus spending thousands on a sawmill unless you plan to saw a lot of lumber on a consistent basis. If you are, then there are some very good mills out there with proven track records. This does not include the Chinese Knock-offs.


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## yrob

I hear you Perry. I am not a tool snob and have bought quite a few tools from harbor freight like clamps and the like. My rule however, is that anything that spins fast or could blow in your face, I do not dare to buy from harbor freight. It seems to me that it is already dangerous enough to use a sawmill (or at least potentially dangerous if you do not pay attention), you do not want to also have to deal with unexpected catastrophic failures in the middle of cutting a huge tree.


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## Timberwerks

As mentioned a chainsaw mill. You can easily get it into places where a Woodmizer can't, low cost & large capacity. Also, CSM really aren't that slow. Not as fast as a band mill but not slow. I'd also rather have the larger width capacity and be able to mill where the log lays vs loading onto rails. It all depends on your budget and equipment needed to do the job.


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## Randy_ATX

Its a dream of mine to mill my own logs. What would be an estimate of a chain saw mill? I know a stihl 660 or 880 (or equivalent) plus special chains would be required plus other goodies to do it right.


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## BBF

Burg Bandsaw Mill


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## shawnmasterson

Thats a awesome find. I think I would go for the 42" Bandsaw Mill No Engine $3100.00. then pick up a 13 hp from HF. They are the same as a honda for a lot less


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## Post_Oakie

It depends on the size of the logs you'll be milling and how much you're going to mill. If you do start out with a chain saw mill, you'll still use the chain saw even if you get a band saw mill later. I've seen some pretty impressive work done with chain saws, and a number of people have built cabins and furniture with them in remote areas. I like Norwood's chain]PortaMill saw mill, because it rides on a track, gives good control over the cut, and the operator is away from the noise and fumes of the saw. As Timberwerks showed, big logs take big saws, and some help moving the slabs. Nice photos!

As far as other gear, get steel toe boots, chaps, logger's helmet (head, hearing & face protection), wedges, ripping chains, and LEARN HOW TO SHARPEN A SAW BY HAND. The tractor, winches, loader, and flatbed truck will follow.


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## donwilwol

http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/23436


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## Post_Oakie

Don, thanks for taking the time to post an informed, well thought-out blog.


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## Timberwerks

My 880 was $1700 with 42" bar that will be used on 36" mill. My Granberg 56" MKIII $750 with 66" bar, chain etc.

Stihl is coming out with the MS661, it will be in the $1200 - $1400 range. This would pair well with a 36" mill. All in all you can get started for $2000 - $2500 or so.

A quick video from when I put this mill together:


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## bannerpond1

Adamal,

Call Wood Mizer. They will tell you the phone numbers of folks in your area who have a Wood Mizer.

I have used two with stationary mills and one with a portable. The portable works well, but is limited to a 28-inch diameter log. My third sawyer has a big mill that can take a 35-inch diameter, and he is my choice. He also has a big fork lift, so if I can get the logs to the mill, he can take them off the trailer or from my pickup if we use a chain or tow strap.

The guys with the big units who saw a lot are more likely to know their equipment and to keep it tuned. You don't want to mess with boards which have a wavy surface due to improper tensioning. My guy is superb and only charges $.25 a board foot to cut the logs into lumber. Portable guys will want $50 or more just to haul their mill to your property.

Also, by taking it to a sawyer, you can custom cut your logs. I found an alternative way to quartersaw the logs, and I use it on most of what I have sawn. I have QS cherry from this year and last year. Last year's is dry since it was indoors and it's ready to become something. Once you see QS wood, you won't go through the cupping that happens so much with wide, flat-sawn boards.

If you have a trailer and a way to load the logs, that's what I'd do. I rent a trailer and find someone who's in the area with heavy equipment to load them for me. It's a scheduling challenge, but it worked out when I had to cut down a dying cherry tree with a 28" diameter. It was 20 feet before the trunk branched. Most of it is now stickered and drying in a barn.

You can rent a lot of trailers and spend a little time for much less money than buying your own mill. If you put hundreds into equipment, the wood becomes less "free." I wouldn't buy the equipment unless I was going to mill LOTS of lumber to make something on my property, like a pole barn.

If anyone wants a diagram of my QS technique, just ask.

Good luck. Dale


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## Adamal

Wow! Thanks for the info folks…

For my purposes, hiring someone to come in would be my best bet. For a chainsaw mill, I'd still have to upgrade my little Stihl 021. That would put me near 2Gs or more for the whole shebang.

I like the Haddon Tools jig, but it looks like it would be torturous on my back. I might give it a try though.

BTW, I'm in Montgomery County Pa. (S.E. Pa.)


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## Adamal

Don W, great link to the blog. This was just what I was looking for before realizing I'd need a much bigger saw.

I had no idea big saws were so much! I don't know if that kind of investment is worth it for once every couple of years use.


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## firefighterontheside

Let me know when you get the Haddon Lumbermaker if you need any suggestions or help with it. It's pretty straightforward though. It is hard on the back though. Best to have a good sharp chain. How long is the bar on that 021. You lose some of the length of your bar with the clamp that goes on it. I'd say about 3 inches. Big saws are expensive. I'd like to have an MS290, but my 025 runs just as good today as the day I got it 15 years ago and I've used it a lot.


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## shawnmasterson

I am curious I have an older 850 promac. I believe its 85cc with a 28" bar Would this have the power to use on sawmill?? I see all the stihl's but I am not familiar with the specs. My other go to saw is a Echo 670 with a 24" bar it has a full skip tooth chain.


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## Timberwerks

You would be good to go for a 24" maybe even 36" http://www.baileysonline.com/Forestry-Woodcutting/Portable-Sawmills/Granberg/Saw-Mills/Granberg-MK-III-Alaskan-Chainsaw-Mill-with-24-Rails.axd


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## Dal300

Shawn, if the Promac is in good condition, it will do fine.
Contrary to popular belief, It doesn't take that large of a saw.

I've been using my Poulan Pro 50CC saw for two years with no problem. I did get rid of the original crappy bar and chain and replaced it with an Oregon 20" bar/chain and then went up to a 28" bar/chain.

I paid $200 for the saw and have less than $100 into the new bars.

I have harvested at least 10, 20" to 30" by 80' trees, (larger has to be cut down to fit the 25" capability of my home made chainsaw mill).

So for $300, Ihave a saw that is still going strong and cuts like a champ. Your Mac should do even better.


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## shawnmasterson

can we get some pix of your home made mill. I was thinking of making one myself. I was a certified welder, and have all the equipment in the shop. thanks


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## bigblockyeti

The Burg bandmill looks pretty impressive, and not to bad of a deal without the engine or track. Seems like it would be a little underpowered with only 13hp if you had a log of any size on the bed. I'm trying very hard to justify one right now, wouldn't even need to make much money with it, just enough to pay for itself. Doesn't seem too far out of reach with a budget of $3000 for a decent used mill.


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## GFYS

jonsered 600 
http://www.tiltonequipment.com/product-lines/lennartsfors-swedish-sawmills//


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## EVA

Nice sharing.


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## Knot_in_my_wood

Adamal,

I've been eyeballing all of the different companies that make sawmills for quite a long time. I already have a chainsaw mill that I use. I have also paid a sawyer to come to a piece of property that I own and he used a Lucas mill. It's very similar to a chainsaw mill, but it can slab much wider boards with consistent accurate thickness. I also have a mill that I can bring logs to have milled for $50 each. Of course, if it hits metal I have to pay an extra $35 for a new blade. That's only happened once and it was on a walnut log.

I've had a hard time justifying the expense on a Wood-Mizer, Timber King, Lucas, Hud-Son, Timber Harvester, Baker, Cook or even some of the never-heard-of-before brands. I've always wanted to own a mill of my own, but in the real world I can still get by with my chainsaw mill for now.

Here's one that I've been really considering purchasing. It's lightweight, doesn't need its own trailer and can be set up by one person and taken into areas you can't get a larger mill into. Check out the site at:

http://www.lumbersmith.com

I'm not trying to endorse this company, as I've never used their product or even actually seen it being used in person. Looking through the feedback that they publish on their website it appears to be a good product with a cheaper price than most of the larger companies.

Regards,

Mike


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## Danpaddles

I think Woodmizer keeps a list of sawyers that will help you out. I worked there for a while, they are a great company. Check their web site or call them.

Whoops, I see someone suggested that.


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## Kudzupatch

All you have to do is search Google.

https://www.harborfreight.com/saw-mill-with-301cc-gas-engine-62366.html


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## therealSteveN

> Wow! Thanks for the info folks…
> 
> For my purposes, hiring someone to come in would be my best bet. For a chainsaw mill, I d still have to upgrade my little Stihl 021. That would put me near 2Gs or more for the whole shebang.
> 
> I like the Haddon Tools jig, but it looks like it would be torturous on my back. I might give it a try though.
> 
> BTW, I m in Montgomery County Pa. (S.E. Pa.)
> 
> - Adamal


Most of the state of Pa is awash in bandmill owners. Finding someone to make a deal with shouldn't be that hard to do. As suggested go through Woodmizer, to find owners. They have a huge network.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Woodmizer+owners+list&t=opera&ia=web


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## PCDub

8-year old post raised from the dead by a newbie-OP has probably done whatever by now!


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## controlfreak

Yeah, zombie post but I have been wondering about this. Obviously you can setup a woodmizer but you would also need a big trailer and a tractor to move the logs. I can do the math on that but is it possible to place the woodmizer on a trailer and drive it to the log and wench it on to the cutting rack? I still would need the trailer to move the wood if it was for me.

I have a business that I can sell that is in a building that I own. If the new buyer doesn't want to lease the space I could put a wood mizer in and have room to store tractor trailer and woodmizer. On top of that I could store slabs and wood indoors. I would need to determine what the market is for both the supply and demand to see if this could generate a retirement income or not. Free wood is not a bad perk either.


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## therealSteveN

I have a good friend with a 250×400' barn, yes it's freeekin huge, 3 stories tall. He has his bandmill in the barn in front of a 60' sliding door, and loads logs with a Bobcat and forks. He has a deal with several tree cutters in the area that deliver logs out in the field behind the barn. They dump, he sorts and stacks.

Seems to be a win win. They get hands off dumping, which I guess is unheard of, he gets free logs.


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