# Shop Flooring ??



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

I hope I have this posted in the right place. I'm looking for some "wallet-efficient" ways to do something with my concrete floor in my shop. If a bag of money should find its way into my yard, or rooftop, I'd like to put a wood floor over the concrete. But, that's if that big bag o cash should fall out of the sky on top of me. Other than that, I considered just paint, or epoxy. There are numerous things I can do. I'd just like to hear some input from you gr8 folks out there. Any comments, good/bad/ugly, are always appreciated. Thnx for readin my thoughts. Look forward to hearing from ya'll.


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## Tag84 (Feb 16, 2011)

Maybe the anti-slip rubber puzzel alike mats Roger? I would like a wooden floor too!


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

well roger, is the concrete hurting your legs, if so then either wood or those mats you can get from harbor frieght would work, if you can go with 3/4 OSB, then just lay sleepers on the floor and then the sheets of OSB…lay the 2×4's on the flat and then the sheet goods…i guess it depends on that bag of money huh…thats about all i know..either that or do you have a wood sawyer near bye who can give you some rough cut planks, plane them down a bit and go that route….good luck, i went with a wood floor from the start, and im glad i did,


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## greg48 (Nov 7, 2010)

Roger,
Epoxy paint looks good and helps with the cleanup, but considering the amount of time you spend in the shop, I'd seriously consider installing a plywood or similar sheet good surfacing overlaying furring strips. The ply gives some cushion to your feet/legs for those long hours and can be painted to give your floor surface a neat appearance. Of course, with the cost of plywood you may wish to pray for pennies from heaven (perhaps a downpour).


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## kdc68 (Mar 2, 2012)

How bout a DIY kit like this ?

http://www.ucoatit.com/2011web/main.htm


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## dshort824 (Jan 12, 2011)

Hey Roger, glad to see you're planning an upgrade such as your new floor. As for the two options that you gave outside of the wood flooring I would suggest an epoxy flooring. However, I would be leery about the big box store brands. My parents bought some from Home Depot and had to strip it all after one month. They had a section tearout while driving over it. This means that there is too much water in the mixture causing a very thin layer to be on your floor once it has evaporated. I purchased mine from armorpoxy.com. It has much less water in the mixture creating a thicker and stronger bond to your concrete therefore creating a much more durable surface. I did a series on application for this product. You might want to check it out for your research. Good luck!!!
www.youtube.com/rhwoodshop


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## HillbillyShooter (Feb 15, 2012)

I just have mats in front of major tools and work areas, see http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2006954/15585/Pebble-Wear-Bonded-Tuff-Spun-12-2'x3'---Black.aspx and Grizzly has some but their web site is not connecting with mine at this time. Good luck and enjoy your shop time.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Thnx for the suggestions and input. I do have the "kindergarten" 24"x24" around a lot of my flooring and a few other mats from Woodcraft. They help a lot. I'm just thinking of the fact that concrete is so cold. I'm sure that hurts the heating potential of a warm shop. I do have an overhead heater, and a small floor heater I'll use when needed. I only keep it around 55 -62 degrees during the cold months. kdc68: I have been to that link you posted, thnx. Really appreciate the thoughts folks.


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## MyChipCarving (Nov 4, 2009)

Hi Roger,
I have laminate wood flooring in my shop and like it. It cleans up well and looks great. Easier on the legs than concrete. Cheaper than real wood and cheaper than epoxy too, if my memory serves me right.
My 2 cents.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Sometimes the "Ollies" store has laminate flooring priced really low.


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## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

Epoxy paint isn't going to help with a cold floor.
I say stick with the foam mats for another couple of months until it warms up.

Or put in a wood floor with insulation underneath.

Steve


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## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

Those puzzle piece floor mats are available at Harbor Freight for a 4"x4" section for $10.


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## Triumph1 (Dec 20, 2009)

You could look at cow/horse mats. You get them at farm equipment stores. I actually just bought a 4' x 6' x 3/4" one to use as a work out mat. The thing is SUPER solid and cheap at $43. I bet the thing weighs well over 100 pounds. I got it at a local store by me but I bet you could find it by you. They also sell horse/cow stall mat by the foot. It is a lot cheaper than other flooring.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

Roger, what are your main reasons and objectives you want in a new floor?

I saw 4×8 sheets of OSB at HD & thought they were very reasonable… 2×4's too… for something just Easy on the Feet & would have a little insulation, might be so bad… cheap too.

... depends on what your target reasons are…


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## kykyle (Dec 21, 2013)

http://www.spycor.com/CertainTeed_Platon_Waterproofing_Membrane_Subfloor_p/xsm.htm
This is a dimple membrane product. It serves as a decoupling(insulation) and prevents any moisture from rising up through your concrete slab. This product would also add a certain amount of cushion. You can put laminate or OSB directly over the top of it. I plan on laying this in my basement before too long. I'll probably do a layer of 7/16" and then come back with a second layer in the opposite direction(covering up all the seams) and screw the two together. Then finish it off with porch and floor paint with anti-skid additive.

Good Luck!


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Roger,
I'm going to try a couple of these this spring when they go on sale for around $30.00.
These are 3/4" thick and a bit firmer than the mats I've bought from the wood working supply type stores.
They can be placed directly on concrete and I believe would support stationary equipment as well. I'm going to cut them in half to make them 2 ft. x 6 ft. and use them in front of benches and tool stands.

My shop is 24 ft. x 24 ft. and would take 18 mats at $30.00 ea. (on sale) , would cost $540.00 + tax.
I don't think I'll be covering the entire floor. 

Here are the stores in southern Indiana that carry them all the time. Most any farm supply has them and they all sell them for the same price $39.99 ea. - 4' x 6' x 3/4". Tractor Supply has a 10 yr. warranty on them.

Rubber Horse Stall Mat, 4 ft. x 6 ft. x 3/4", Manufacturer: QUALITY RUBBER, $39.99 ea.

http://www.orschelnfarmhome.com/rubber-stalltrailer-mat/ctl16754/cp58021/si5394082/cl1/
Limited 5 year warranty

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/rubber-horse-stall-mat-4-ft-x-6-ft 
Warranty : 10 Years

http://farmking.com/

...just another option.

Best Regards. - Len

Work Safely and have Fun.

EDIT; Sorry, I was still typing and searching when Jeff posted #12.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Roger, I really like those interlocking mats from Harbor Freight. Catch them on sale and get a BUNCH. They are much easier on my feet and back and are a lot warmer than my concrete.


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## KMTSilvitech (Feb 10, 2011)

MyChipCarving, did you put the laminate over concrete? I am thinking of doing that on my chipped up and ugly concrete floor with a heavy duty thick underlay as the base.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

HD has flooring called traffic master, it is a vinyl floating floor. You lay it like wood but it sticks together. The product is water proof and adds some cushion to the floor.


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## andy_P (Aug 13, 2009)

Like was asked before, what is the main purpose you want to do something to the floor. Out here in Arizona weather is not too much of a factor…...at least not where I live. I think those link together mats at Harbor Freight are a hands down winner considering cost. I have just strategically placed fatigue mats around my machinery and where I do a lot of standing.


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## 111 (Sep 2, 2013)

I'm using 1/4" mdf @ 5 bucks a sheet to cover about 1000' area where I spray contact cement and paint. Basically doing it to protect the floor in the building I rent. I'm hoping to get 3 years out of them. I duct taped all the seams.
So far it's laying down pretty good. Not worried about moisture, like I say just trying to get about 3 years out of it.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Those puzzle piece floor mats are available at Harbor Freight for a 4"x4" section for $10.

That's what I did put the HF mats down everywhere in the shop that I walk. Wasn't too expensive and you can get them on sale or w/ coupons and can beat the $10 price.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

I have a great idea for you Roger. I know it is great because I have used it for basement flooring in 2 different homes and in my own workshop. it works perfect, it's easy to install and you get good insulation with it. The price is also very reasonable.

*Here are the steps and materials required:*
1. Check to make sure your local code will allow this type of construction. You may have to discuss with them as I doubt it is commonplace in the US.

2. If your cement floor is not level you can level it with dry clean sand, the type used to make mortar with. This normally only requires filling any sunken spots, not covering the whole floor!

3. Cover the floor on top of the san with two inch thick styrofoam. Here in Norway we can buy it in 2" x 23" x 20" pieces. This is very rigid stuff and together with the flooring support huge amounts of weight. Styrofoam creates a poisonous gas when burning. However, with it being sandwiched between the floor and the top flooring material with no air available to it, it will be the last thing to burn in case of a house fire (if it even burns then).

4. For a moisture barrier cover the sand with thick plastic sheeting. Overlap the joints and tape with waterproof tape.

5. Cover the styrofoam with impregnated chipboard tongue and groove flooring glued in the joints with waterproof glue. Paint with a couple of coats of a good enamel paint.

You can check out my shop floor on my workshop page to see what it looks like. The floor was about six years old when the photos were taken, it's now been about 12 years and still looks great. One thing I love about the wooden floor is that my tools don't get ruined when I knock them onto the floor (which happens often in my small shop). The floor never feels cold and it is easy on the legs.


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## Bampei (Mar 31, 2009)

I've had the same issue with the 980SF concrete floor in my workshop (3-car garage). The floor was epoxied when the house was built seven years ago, but the floor has not held up well. Lots of stains and epoxy chipping that doesn't reach into the concrete. The previous owners were clearly not concerned about the garage floor, and used it for….wait for it….. CARS! (How neanderthal!!)

I looked at a number of options. To re-epoxy the floor would be a real bear because the floor would have to be completely stripped and then prepped. Very time-consuming and expensive. 
The next option was to overpaint, and the big box stores have paints that supposedly can be applied directly over existing epoxy, but my research indicated mostly negative reviews.

My workshop has a full range of heavy WW machines (TS, 2x BS's,, DP, Jointer/Planer, etc..), hand power tools (mostly the "green" stuff), and both a full size and mini lathe. My goal is to have a floor that can be swept or vacuumed easily, and with few crevices for dust and chips to find.

I happened upon a couple of sites where people had overlaid their concrete floors with Porcelain Tile. Initially, that seemed kind of crazy. What about chipping, stains, slipping, etc. BUT… what I discovered in my research is that porcelain tile is extremely durable, non-staining, and some are rated for industrial use by OSHA for strength and resistance to slipping. Weight carry is also rated. The best part is that the workshops I've seen online that have porcelain floors look absolutely awesome! Price is not crazy either. Another advantage is being able to easily move my machines that are mobile across the floor vs. having a "soft" floor that would eventually show indentations of where equipment had been placed before being moved.

Ceramic tile was NOT an option due to potential for chipping and other problems. Just not as strong as porcelain, and bleeds moisture.

So off to the retailers I went, and I have found a light-colored, 12X12 porcelain tile at $.98/ea that has all the right specs for strength, slippage, and durability. Super easy to clean, sweep, and remove any stains. I expect to install in the spring or early summer. Total cost for a nearly 1000SF garage will be under $1000 for the tile plus grout and thinset. If I use professional installers, I can have the entire workshop done for under $3000, and expect it to last for many years. Adding some comfort mats around the areas where I stand the most amount of time will relieve fatigue and back problems as well.

It's something to consider for those folks looking at their floors and scratching their heads!

Check out 
http://allgaragefloors.com/porcelain-tile-garage-floor/
Lots of good info.

Cheers,

Frank


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Here is my thinking, if going to a wooden floor I'd think extra upkeep and maintenance but…. it does offer softer footing then concrete, if needing to move tools around on casters rubber flooring would be a pain in that situation perhaps placed rubber mats? Just my thoughts. What if you just went with simple ply board interlocked some how? biscuit and glued?


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## Sailor (Jun 17, 2009)

I work out at a crossfit gym and I clean the gym once a week to pay for my $105 a month membership. Basically our whole gym is the 4'x6' horse stall mats, probably about 100 of them. They aren't to bad to mop but I would have having to sweep sawdust off them…..

I think they would be awsome to have just a few of them around the workbench and saws where you stand often but not covering the entire shop…..


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## fuzzface (Apr 12, 2013)

I'll toss another idea into the arena. Last year we moved into a new house with a huge walkout basement, a woodworker's dream. I considered all the options for flooring, and wound up using a product called DRICORE. It is sold as sub-flooring, comes in 2 ft x 2 ft squares. Dimpled on the bottom, strandboard on top, tongue and groove on the sides. Ridiculously easy to install. You have the option to install almost anything on top of it, but the manufacturer also says you can us it as is, paint it or stain it. I chose to use it as is. With the workshop completed, and several months of use, I can say I am completely happy with this choice. It in comfortable to walk on, tough as hell and maintenance free. Sold at Lowes, HD, Menards, around $5.90 each, so comes in at about $1.50 sq ft. Good luck with your project.


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## Porchfish (Jun 20, 2011)

I have a neighbor who recently glued down a cork floor directly over concrete using a leveling goup he squeegied on. It is comfortable to walk on and rugged (so he says) the cork he used was what is often used as an underlayment..he used 2 layers of the 1/4" sheet cork down running top layers perpendicular to the 1st. .he put 2 layers of poly on top of the cork. his concrete floor was poured over gravel and a resilient plastic vapor barrier. If your concrete floor wasn't poured over a similarly prepared bed, you couldn't use this kind of floor without sleepers and ply sub floor. There are a lot of options out there, but the $$ will depend on the prep. necessary for your concrete floor. Poly paints with ships etc. gains you nothing but a nicer looking concrete floor. Good luck, and tell us what you decide on. Don S.


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

Roger, I have the Sam's Club 3'x3' greaseproof red rubber mat= in front of all my equipment. It locks together, is very cushiony feeling, and if I drop something it tends to fall into the holes instead of bouncing who-knows-where.
I cut it in half to make runners in front of the lathe.
It's fairly easy for even an old fart to pick up and clean under, but I usually run the dust collector hose right over the top and suck the shavings out from between the holes.
I've had mine for about 3 years now.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

*PASs*

I look it up & it will not give me the Price…
... So, approx. cost?

Thank you…


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

http://www.rubberflooringinc.com/warehouse-sale.html I got my basement floor tiles (5/8" soft tiles) here on clearance at < $1.00 a square foot. They are easy to cut if you need, take pressure of your feet and as a result your back as well. They can't be damaged by water, you can take them with you if you were to move. They provide insulation from the cold floor. The only negatives that I can see is that they probably wouldn't survive well if being driven over, or if you're putting your heavy machinery on them instead of putting the tiles around the machines. It wouldn't be easy to roll anything across them either (like a portable dust collector or occupied office type chair). I'm not sure about oil resistance if that's something you might have them exposed to. They sell rubber for more $$ if you'll be driving over or placing machinery on them, that should hold up well. They also offer free samples, the rubber samples I received seem very durable.


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## DrDirt (Feb 26, 2008)

I was wanting a wood floor - and hought this was a great and quick way with the tonge and groove tiles - but it is around 2 bucks a square foot.
5.75 per tile

The Spycore rolls mentioned by KyKyle look interesting - rolling this out and using full 4X7 OSB sheets that are still T&G should definitely a much cheaper option… MAYBE - - - The Dricore panels are prefinished


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

I prefer the concrete Roger, easy to clean but does get a bit cold in winter just like all the iron & steel around the workshop.


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

Roger, last time I bought any it was about $30 for a 3'x3' piece, so about $3.50 per sq ft.
I ended up buying about 4 pieces over a few months because I really liked it.
It's about 3/4" thick, really cushy compared to the concrete floor.
Here's a picture of it at the lathe. I cut it in half so I could get longer pieces for the lathe and workbench.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Wow. Thnx everyone for your responses, suggestions, etc. Really gives me lots ta think about. Gives anyone else some thoughts as well. Appreciate all ya'lls help.


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

one last suggestion roger, if you want to get qa nice work out and take care of an unwanted concrete floor, rent a jack hammer, remove said concrete and wella a nice soft dirt floor..dont have to thank me…its all in a days work…LOL…LOL…


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Ummmm….... Thnx grizz…. hehehehe


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## Wiltjason (Jan 10, 2013)

I knew an old guy that was having problems standing on the concret floores of his shop. What he did was went and bought 1 very nice very well made anti fatigue mat, took a pair of boots that he had and glued the boots to the mat, then he cut around the soles of his boots and saved the rest of the mat. Now every day when he goes to the shop he changes his boots just like Mr Rogers did and everywhere he walks hes on an anti fatige mat


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

Wiltjason….I LOVE that Idea….WIN!!!


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## Whiskers (Nov 6, 2012)

LOL, Wiltjason I think you have something there. Wally world sells very comfy walking shoes for about $20 that last surprisingly for a long time. A dedicated pair of those wouldn't break the budget and using contact cement to attach the matting would make replacement easy when the "mat soles" wore. Just have to make sure the soles of the shoes are fairly smooth rather than hiking boot type. I piece of that horse mat would probably be perfect for this. Just cut small strip off one end, and use the rest of the mat normally.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

*Wiltjason*

SUPER COOL idea!!

Man! Buy ONE instead of MANY tiles, glue to shoes, take the comfort WITH you no matter where you go!

What could be better than that?!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Each floor type it's own story.
Concrete solid and strong, but hard for the bones and cold if not heated and kept from the elements.
Wood, can be almost as hard when its just a 'swimming floor' on concrete, so it need to be a build up floor to give some 'swing'. Wood have a natural insulation ability, so it will insulate a little. The harder the less insulation.
But to use wood as insulation is a expensive way.
Rubber are the same, the harder the less insulation, and the softer the more 'swing' that you want for your bones.
So the worst shop floor, is solid concrete for the bones.
A good floor on concrete base, might be a build up wood floor with soft insulation between the joist's, then floorboards that allow a small swing and where you stand a lot medium hard rubber matts for your delicate bones.
Hope it gave a little light, sorry my technical english, I'm a Dane.
(I just got what we call a swimming wood floor (directly) on concrete in my shop, due to the room height and are really happy, but it is a bit hard, so I might have to get some rubber mats). 
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

That cold concrete floor is a problem and I think the best solution for you is rubber mats with a beveled edge .
I am working on framing a full basement at the moment and sure feel the cold floor even so it is a heated space .
We have considered ventilated OSB but the floor has some heaving in spots and that would be a problem with joints so we are going with in floor water heat which is already installed but needs the water heater / pump / control's ETC ,a little expensive but well worth it .
I have in floor heat in my garage and it is great ,nice and dry and warm .


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

After reading these comments, here's another thought…

1. Insulation layer… 4×8 sheets of Stiff styrofoam laid down…
2. ~4×8 sheets of OSB lightly spot glued to styrofoam & lay down to have seams different than the foam sheets.
3. Might be a good idea to router cut the edges for Tongue & groove to keep'em in alignment better…

Just brain lips a floppin… 

... might be better to just try it on a small walk way to test it out first…


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

I had a complete concrete floor in my woodshop,which made my legs,feet, and back ache.I put in laminate on top with a cushioning under it designed by the laminate company it looks just like expensive hardwood andI have had it now for around ten years and would never be without it believe me I was in agony after a few hours there before. Alistair


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## retfr8flyr (Oct 30, 2013)

I'll throw one more option out there. If you want to do the whole floor Racedeck has a new product called Shock Tower that is designed to give some relief from a concrete floor. http://ww2.cox.com/residential/home.cox


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Thnx everyone. Earl: your link takes me to Cox Cable…..... but, I found it by doing a search on shock tower flooring. Thnx


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

*Here's a link that I found... for Shock Tower..*

... but, how do find out what the Cost is?

... looks expensive… 16 yr. warranty!


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## davidmackv (Nov 21, 2013)

I have the same issue with my floor being concrete and being hard and cold. I have a bunch of the 2×2' puzzle piece mats, but never put them down, because I figured they would be next to impossible to keep clean. I see some of you use them. What is your opinion on keeping them clean?


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## Grampa_Doodie (Feb 9, 2012)

My daughter is a horse person. She has purchased lots of horse stall mats for me over the years for my concrete wood shop floor. They can be found at most "farm supply" stores. They weigh a ton…but they're very, very nice!! And pretty much indestructible.

I have a water issue every once in a while. The nice thing about these mats is that they're ribbed underneath. Water passes by them fairly well. I still prop them up and put a fan near them if they do happen to get wet just to make sure they don't get moldy.

In the midwest we have a store chain called Fleet Farm that has them on hand.

Here's a link to show you what they look like.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/rubber-horse-stall-mat-4-ft-x-6-ft


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## Grampszee (Mar 26, 2013)

Roger, I have a concrete floor in my shop, I cut to size used carpet. Collects dust, easy to clean, cushion for projects and its free.


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

davidmackv,
I have used them before, they work pretty good, but don't take heavy use.
And clean is such a relative term. If I can see some of my floor under the wood shavings I'm pretty happy.


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## Whiskers (Nov 6, 2012)

Thanks Grandpa_doodie for the link to the TSC horse mats. I've read and heard good things about them and wanted to check if my store had them and how much they cost. Damn they are pricey though, They ever run those on sale? The way I'm setting up my shop I plan to basically plan to have 2 main duty stations active at a time, and since all my tools are mobile I can run them to one of the positions. I might can get by with a single mat as 6' is a good bit of room. I wish they were a little longer though, 8' would have been better.


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## BigYin (Oct 14, 2011)

old conveyer belt if you can get it.


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## fishcad (Mar 23, 2012)

It won't solve the cold floor issue, but for anyone thinking about a floor coating I can recommend the Rust-Oleum epoxy system. I did my shop and garage 7 years ago and have had no peeling or chipping. I have had a little staining where the car tires grind in dirt. Also the areas along the walls where I cut in with a brush came out a slightly different shade than the rest that was done with a roller. It's a two-part epoxy and your arm will get a workout to properly mix the parts.


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## Whiskers (Nov 6, 2012)

While googling for horse mats I ran across this company, who also sells horse mats and rubber flooring and other products. The rubber flooring is of course more for gyms etc, and wouldn't work in a garage except in spots, but they had this which wasn't terribly expensive. Has anyone experience with this product? It specifically says it can handle coasters from workbenches etc, but I would like to know from someone who has tried it. Especially the cracks tween tiles, and over time.

http://www.rubberflooringinc.com/garage/smooth-xl-grid-loc-tiles.html


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## Whiskers (Nov 6, 2012)

oh, thought i would add, their rubber flooring typically comes in 4' wide strips, 20,25,30' etc long. price per square foot is quite cheap per square foot, cheaper than the horse mats and on part with the crap HF foam interlocky things. Would be great for buying and cutting anti fatigue area stations, they have tiles as well if you prefer that route.


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## Anselth (Apr 19, 2012)

I just got 4×8 OSB sheets and some 8' 1×2s. I screwed the OSB to the faces of the 1×2s, but I offset them some, like you would with drywall on studs, but I also offset each "stud" about an inch along its length so it stuck out on one side. This way, I have semi-moveable panels that I can pick up and change out should one rot, or if I need to strengthen the floor under a particularly heavy tool, or if I move to a new garage. You could slide 3/4" foam insulation between the studs if you wanted to insulate it some.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Really appreciate all the input from all of you. Some gr8 ideas.


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## cabbie (Dec 29, 2012)

Roger-
I went with an epoxy floor (2-part-had to order it from a nautical supply place that uses it for deck and interior coatings on work boats). CA has some funky regs on coatings, VOCs, etc., so I had to do a bit of a round-about to get it, but I love this stuff. The first caution is that it has to go on REALLY clean concrete. If you've parked cars in the area that leaked any oil you're going to have adhesion failure.
The second caution is that the rather glossy finish, while it cleans up beautifully, is slippery as heck with a bit of sawdust on it. A sprinkle of silica sand on the fresh coating when wet cures this.
I think I paid about $250 to coat the 12×45 shop and the 2 car garage floors.
Have fun!
Jim


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

Roger,

Let us know what you have decided to do,OK?

Thank you!


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## BryanatWoodstock (Oct 31, 2012)

I buy the 2×2 interlocking mats. I recently bought $100 worth to extend the area and toss some that had worn out.

















they vac easily, and if I have to move a machine come up easy too.


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## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

If firm floors are bothering you, I would opt for the mats. Wood will "give" some better than concrete but not much.


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## PASs (Dec 1, 2009)

I've found that a good inch or two of sawdust is really cushy. And if you drop something it won't bounce or roll away.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Thought I'd give a lil update: I did finally decide to just go with the 2'x2' interlocking flooring tiles from Sams Club. You can find them here: http://www.samsclub.com/sams/util-a-mat-commercial-grade-reversible-floor-mats-24-x-24-8-tiles/107930.ip?origin=search_page.rr1&campaign=rr&sn=SolrSearchToView& 
It's wallet/purse friendly, colorful, if you like, and nice & cushy on the feet and legs. I have 2 packages invested so far, but I need to get one more. So, for about 60 bux, my feet, legs, and back are "happy, happy, happy".. 


















I was standing on my bench when I took this shot. I'll be getting some new pics of my shop re-do soon. Thnx for lookin.


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## HorizontalMike (Jun 3, 2010)

OK Roger, you have to PROMISE to not start wearing those stretch pants, like the lady in the picture, when you are out in the shop OK? I'm starting to get a really bad visual… you gotz ta PROMISE!

*;-)*


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

LOL Mike… OK, I promise I will NOT wear dem dare stretchy pants while in the shop. hahahhaa. I've got a bad visual now, dag-nabbit…


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Big lol, as long as you don't take photos Roger.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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