# Sled to crosscut live edge slab



## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I'm working on a live edge coffee table with a waterfall leg. That means I need to crosscut the slab with a very clean cut, and then I will need those adjoining edges to be at 45° so I can make the 90° for the leg.

My first thought was a simple crosscut sled with t-track parallel to the blade about 12 inches on each side I could use 4 t-track hold downs like these to keep the irregular piece stable for the table saw cut:








The idea would be that I would make the sled with 45° kerf, make the initial cut, flip the off piece over to the other side and then very carefully make the 45° cut on that side as well.

After I get the cuts straight, I am going to join them with full blind splined miters.

What am I not thinking of? Suggestions?


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

It all depends on the width of the table I suppose. My tablesaw sled will handle 24" wide panels. Your clamp idea will ensure that the panel doesn't move during the operation. Will the sled ride on a metal runner in the TS slot?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Depending on the thickness of the slab, a circular saw might be a better approach.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I was going to use wooden runners and wax them. That works well for me on my usual sled.

I didn't want to mess up my usual sled with the 45° cut at max height.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

MrJinx,

My thought was that if I got the sled right, I would bet a more precise cut this way. Why would you favor the circular saw?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Charles,
The circular saw may provide a better precision since you are moving the saw which is light weight, not the slab, irregular and heavy. By securing a track across the slab, you can easily cut it with a circular saw.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

gotcha.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Looks like the max cut depth for most circular saws at 45° is 1 3/8." After I finish flattening, I'll see if that will be sufficient. Doubt it will.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

If you can believe it, the desk I made is 3" thick; after cutting it with the C-saw, I went ahead and cut the rest of it with a hand saw.. Not recommending that as I had to make adjustments with a hand plane. You may want to check into one of these if you plan to make more live edge stuff:
I have the makita. Very intimidating, but amazingly smooth.

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=makita+16+circular+saw&tag=googhydr-20&index=tools&hvadid=31574845277&hvpos=1t2&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4906701476510568160&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_8norgsrnzu_b


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Thanks. I don't anticipate doing this more than every year or two, when it strikes my fancy.

I'm curious if anyone has actually crosscut a live edge slab with a sled. I'm all ears about the best approach.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Charles, The sled should work fine with the holddowns. The problem I see is deciding where "square" is as both pieces will have to match to create your waterfall joint.

I'm still thinking on this but hopefully a smart guy will chime in!


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

Using the band saw might make using a sled easier at a 45 degree angle and would insure that you could cut all the way through.

Just not sure if the throat of your band saw has the capacity to use this method.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

No on bandsaw capacity. I thought about that. Thanks for the thought.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

> No on bandsaw capacity. I thought about that.
> 
> - CharlesA


TS75 has a 2.2" depth of cut at 45 degrees and a 30 day money back guarantee? 

Sorry. I am always looking for an excuse to buy this bad boy!


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## freddy1962 (Feb 27, 2014)

I agree with mrjinx, that's how I'd do it. Good secure straightedge. I've used the 16" Makita circular saw linked to as an carpenter on jobsites. They are a beast.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Just checked around-no one rents those big circular saws in Louisville, can't plop down $700 for a Festool or Makita circular to cut one slab.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Look for a log home/timber frame stores, just about every town has one. See if one of the installers will make the cuts for you.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

That's an idea. I have a hard time believing they would cut it with the precision I'm looking for and that I would have to do a lot of cleanup. But there are several in the area. Might we worth a few phone calls.


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## freddy1962 (Feb 27, 2014)

Charles it could be easily done with a regular 71/4 circular saw, like mrjinx stated. I've done it many times. I use my fatmax handsaw to follow up or cut all the way through. Then hit it with a hand plane or a very long sanding block. The big 16" would be ideal and they are accurate if you use a fence and keep it moving steadily. We have a store similar to Grangers locally. Industrial supply, they rent them.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Thanks for all the feedback. I checked the thickness today, and I'm at about 1 5/8". I need to go over the top again at least once with router jig, and that will drop it close to 1 1/2". If I go over the bottom one more time, I'm getting closer to 1 3/8", the 45° depth of my circular saw. So, I think I'll buy a new blade for that, carefully mark and clamp a fence, and see how it turns out.

I did email a local log home co as well.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

One thing I normally do to make it come out right is to measure both end, divide the distance in half and connect the centered together. Use a square against the line and draw your cut mark.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

MrJinx, Not sure I understand what you're getting at. Would you please try again?


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## UpstateNYdude (Dec 20, 2012)

Just throwing this out there for you 

http://louisville.en.craigslist.org/tls/4576756655.html


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## widdle (Mar 10, 2010)

If your material is around an 1 1/2" that leaves with at least 3/8" + for sled material..If your on a ten inch tale saw..You should be good..doesn't allow for your t track..but you could just lock it down with blocks and screws..or glue some runners directly to your slab..Then on to a large shooting board…


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## widdle (Mar 10, 2010)

I did something similar a few years ago, where a cabinet shop friend clamped up some material in his panel saw…and got good clean cuts that way…just a thought..


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## LiveEdge (Dec 18, 2013)

Could you cut through with the circular saw, carefully flip the piece, do some math and measuring and lining and cut through the rest with another pass of the circular saw?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Basically, you measure the width on each end and divide that in half to find the center at each end. Then you connect those center line to have a reference as to where the center of the board is. Then use the center line as a guide to place your square against to draw a 90 degree line to one side and then turn the square to the other side and do the same. At this point you will have a line running across the board that is at 90 degrees against the center line. This should ensure that once you assemble the leg, it will be straight provided your end cuts are also at a 90 degree to that center line. Hope that make sense.


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

Got it, Mr. Jinx. I had been thinking of something like this, but hadn't worked it out with the detail you're suggesting.

BTW, checked the depth of cut on my DeWalt circular at 45°, and I think it will now cut through in one pass.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Cool, can't wait to see it… take a lot of pictures.


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## rhett (May 11, 2008)

Don't make it harder than it needs to be. The easiest method I've found, which produces consistnent results, is a piece of sacraficial plywood, slighlty larger than the slab getting mitered. Attach your slab to the plywood and then use the square edges of the ply for your reference lines. You are once again working from square and the organic shape of the slab makes no difference.


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