# Table Saw Blade Guards - Do you use 'em?



## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

So, this past Saturday, I got stupid for a split second and got bit by my table saw for the second time in the last 6 months. The first time wasn't bad but this one sent me to the ER and then home with 9 stitches in my thumb. Thankfully, it should heal up fine and I didn't leave any portion of my finger on the saw table but it got me to thinking that I should get serious about using my blade guard before my sense and my hands get outta sync around a spinning blade again.

Now, I know we all know that using the blade guard makes sense from a safety and smarts standpoint. I also know that a lot of the operations we do require that the blade guard be removed. So I'm wondering how many LJs do use their guard religiously and how they may have adapted, or built from scratch, said guard so it's not such a major PITA to get it out of the way when necessary.

So, show me what you've got folks! I've got some ideas on how to fix my guard to "swing" out of the way but nothing I'm really satisfied with. Also chime in if you've got something to say on the subject.


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## BasementShop (Nov 3, 2014)

Lost the tip of my finger to an unguarded table saw. I use a cross cut sled about every third cut on my table saw and so I don't have a guard on mine even after my accident.

I'm looking forward to the replies this generates to see if I can adapt something useful to my saw.

BasementShop


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

second time in 6 months. I'd be looking at a sawstop.


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## ElChe (Sep 28, 2014)

I don't have one. I've been pondering this question again this year. I have an older Unisaw. The blade guard that came with it is long gone as I took it off after it hung up on one of my first cuts. I've considered an overhead blade guard but they seem bulky and would interfere with my table mounted router. I just installed a Biesemeyer splitter. Before I used a microjig splitter but it didn't work well (the little legs kept getting bent). So, for now, I'm going to stay with no blade guard but I am going to use the splitter for any cut that I can use it with. I may try to make a lexan guard for the biesemeyer splitter similar to the bork blade guard accessory.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> Lost the tip of my finger to an unguarded table saw. I use a cross cut sled about every third cut on my table saw and so I don t have a guard on mine even after my accident.
> 
> I m looking forward to the replies this generates to see if I can adapt something useful to my saw.
> 
> ...


Crosscut sled is exactly why I don't have the guard on mine too.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> second time in 6 months. I d be looking at a sawstop.
> 
> - johnstoneb


That's what I told my wife. She thought it was a great idea. Then she looked at prices and told me I don't really need 10 fingers anyway  In my defense, I've been working with power tools since I was a teenager and worked as a machinist for 10 years and the 2 incidents with the table saw recently are the only 2 serious ones I've ever had. I guess motor skills really do slow down once you hit 40!


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

I have an Excalibur overarm guard, so 95+% of the time, it's yes!

My guard will clear most sleds. I can't use it with fence riding jigs, corner splining jigs, or when splitting box lids or narrow ripping, but it swings in and out of position effortlessly, removing the temptation not to put it back.

I've had the Excalibur guard for ~ 15 years. I like it so much, when I sold my '99 General 650 to buy a SawStop ICS, I kept the guard and installed it on the new saw.


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## Daruc (Apr 20, 2015)

I don't use the guard, *but I do unplug the saw when I change the blade, just makes more sense*!
I would get the overhead excalibur guard if I was to buy one.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Oggie - I've been checking into some of the overhead guards and they do seem like a nice solution. I'm not sure it's good for me though. I have a contractor's saw on a mobile cart I made and it gets wheeled around a lot in my small workspace. The cost is pretty prohibitive on most of the well-reviewed ones - Excalibur included. I haven't ruled something like that out completely but I'd like to find a solution that's a bit less "bulky" even if there is some compromise with convenience.

Woodust - I'm with you, I always unplug my saw and my router before changing blades/bits. Way too easy for a switch to fail or get flipped accidentally.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> I have an Excalibur overarm guard, so 95+% of the time, it s yes!
> 
> - OggieOglethorpe


 Oh, and congratulations on being the only OSHA approved member of LumberJocks!


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Twice in 6 months? You said it: "Stupid". Hard way to learn but we all do it.

Blade guards: don't use one/never have - but I'm not saying don't use one.

For me its real simple: KEEP YOUR FINGERS AWAY FROM THE BLADE.
If the fence is less than 4" from the blade, use a pushblock.
Think about the cut before you make it.
The best safety device is between your ears.

Keep in mind a blade guard is only one kind of safety device and for a lot of ww'ers its a big PITA because you can't see the cut.

A SawStop will not prevent kickback, which is many X more likely to be the injury incurred than a lost digit.


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

*Keep in mind a blade guard is only one kind of safety device and for a lot of ww'ers its a big PITA because you can't see the cut.*

So? That just means someone isn't familiar with better ways to work.

If you're ripping, the fence is setting the width. Are you going to wiggle the stock to move closer to a line? If you do, please make a video.

Crosscutting? All of the time there will be than one complementary part, I'm using a stop block. This is on a sled, miter gauge, or a fence standoff block. So much of woodworking includes parts in pairs or more, this is nearly all of the time. The stop is set to close-side tooth before the saw is turned on. When I'm not using a stop, I'm still nearly always using a sled, aligning my cut line to the sled kerf well before the material approaches the blade.

So, what's to see?

Seeing the cut is important on band saws or any other machine that involves freehand cutting. Not so much on a properly used table saw.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Blade guard is the first thing to go into the rat hole… but I do use a splitter when appropriate.

Cheers,
Brad


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

rwe2156 and Oggie both have points and I appreciate both sides. Believe me, like rwe, I'd much prefer to not have a blade guard in my way. However, if it were truly as simple as KEEP YOUR FINGERS AWAY FROM THE BLADE, I'd say no one would ever have been cut by a table saw. Unfortunately, things happen. In my case, the lumber I was ripping released some stress and started to bind. My knee-jerk reaction was to hold it down to prevent kickback and I "held" it with a bit too much force and my offcut hand got way too close to the blade. Stupid? Yes. Did I have time to ponder the instinctive decision I made? Nope. Things happen.

So a blade guard won't prevent everything by any stretch of the imagination. But I've come to the conclusion that its value may outweigh its inconvenience FOR ME. I'll not suggest that anyone else should use one because I ain't no one's Mama. So rwe, keep on keepin' on without it and Oggie, keep on using it. Hopefully each and every one of us can still count to 10 for many years to come


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## 1911kevin (Aug 22, 2013)

I've also been mulling this over and will eventually try to build and overhead guard with dust collection. My father has had two table saw accidents over his life of woodworking, the last one cost him the tip of his finger so this stays in the front of my mind when I'm using a table saw. I've got the same issue with the crosscut sled, use it most of the time/as much as I can. I have also used one or two push sticks when I'm not using the sled and recently I got one of those "Gr-rripper" jig things and while I'm still warming up to it I'm liking it so far. I'm almost worried it's going to give me a false sense of security somehow since when using it I'm passing my hands directly over the blade all the time, which of course I'd never do otherwise.
Here's a link to a pretty cool diy overhead guard that I think I'll try to mimic someday:

http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/overarm_guard.shtml


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> I ve also been mulling this over and will eventually try to build and overhead guard with dust collection. My father has had two table saw accidents over his life of woodworking, the last one cost him the tip of his finger so this stays in the front of my mind when I m using a table saw. I ve got the same issue with the crosscut sled, use it most of the time/as much as I can. I have also used one or two push sticks when I m not using the sled and recently I got one of those "Gr-rripper" jig things and while I m still warming up to it I m liking it so far. I m almost worried it s going to give me a false sense of security somehow since when using it I m passing my hands directly over the blade all the time, which of course I d never do otherwise.
> Here s a link to a pretty cool diy overhead guard that I think I ll try to mimic someday:
> 
> http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/overarm_guard.shtml
> ...


I think that is the best type design for convenience. If I had a cabinet saw that got used in the same spot all the time, I'd probably have had one long ago. Unfortunately, my workspace is crowded and the saw gets moved all the time. If yours doesn't though, and you're of a mind to use a guard, I think that's a great way to go. Thanks for the link!


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## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

The guard that came with my saw was lousy at best. It's hanging on the wall collecting dust.
I agree with one of the previous posters. My fingers do not get anywhere near the blade except when I'm changing it. I have a myriad of push sticks and blocks and I use them every time. 
I use my sled a lot so I couldn't use a guard even if I had a good one. I think I would use an over-arm guard if I had one.
Just my 2 cents.


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## jusfine (May 22, 2010)

I tried the Excalibur guard that Woodust had shown a photo of, found I did not like the awkwardness of it, returned it to the dealer.

Using tablesaws for over 38 years, almost everyday, without guards. Still have all my digits. Have a large scar on my left index finger from a Veritas flush cut saw, nothing from the Unisaw or General.

I use the Gripper system for small inlay pieces that I cut.

Some of the advice above about limiting how close you are to the blade is excellent, most of all, know what your machine can do and how it can hurt you.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

I'm on board with rwe and chem. Had a minor accident with a jointer almost 20 years ago. really learned my lesson that day. Another push stick I'll use frequently is a good old Dixon Ticonderoga #2. That eraser end is great for keeping in contact with wood on either side of the blade. More frequently I use it to keep the wood from climbing or shifting away from the blade. It's something I use to scoot pieces away from the blade to avoid a odd kickback.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Okay I've got a few thumbs-up for the overhead designs, Excaliber and shop-made, and a few people who don't like the ones that came with their saw. I honestly don't know how the one that came with my Powermatic is 'cause I've never put it on to find out.

Anyone have a guard that isn't overhead either that came with your saw or aftermarket, or shop-made that they actually do like? Or is it gonna be overhead or nothing for everyone?

And while we're at it, rwe2156 made a good point that blade guards only prevent some types of accidents. And we've had a couple (myself included) that have been cut without a blade guard. Anyone been injured using a tablesaw that did have a blade guard in use? Anyone had a "near miss" where the blade guard prevented an injury?


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> Some of the advice above about limiting how close you are to the blade is excellent, most of all, know what your machine can do and how it can hurt you.
> 
> - jusfine


Well said and I couldn't agree more. In my case, the problem was complacency and not using a push stick/block when I should have been.

Just to be clear about my point of view, I'm not suggesting that a blade guard is a substitute for good 'ole common sense here, just that it may be a bit of added insurance in SOME situations for SOME people.



> I m on board with rwe and chem. Had a minor accident with a jointer almost 20 years ago. really learned my lesson that day. Another push stick I ll use frequently is a good old Dixon Ticonderoga #2. That eraser end is great for keeping in contact with wood on either side of the blade. More frequently I use it to keep the wood from climbing or shifting away from the blade. It s something I use to scoot pieces away from the blade to avoid a odd kickback.
> 
> - BurlyBob


If my wife wants to know why I have a pencil stuck in my forehead, I'll tell her to look up BurlyBob ;-) Totally kidding! That's an excellent tip (no pun intended). I now recall reading that somewhere at some point in the past but I had totally forgotten about it. I'll have to lay one on my fence for those times when I have small parts that a push stick is just too awkward for.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I use every safety device available for my saw. Guard, splitter, Board Buddies, etc. for thru cuts. Less than thru cuts are done with Board Buddies, hold downs.
My push pads and sticks are my friends.
I value my fingers and sternum. 
Bill


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> I use every safety device available for my saw. Guard, splitter, Board Buddies, etc. for thru cuts. Less than thru cuts are done with Board Buddies, hold downs.
> I value my fingers and sternum.
> Bill
> 
> - Bill White


And now we have 2 OSHA approved LJs! 

Bill - do you use any kind of sleds or jigs with your saw? Do you remove the guard when necessary or do you have something that can stay in place all the time?


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

Kenny that's exactly where I keep my pencil, cradled in my Beismeyer fence.


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## Ger21 (Oct 29, 2009)

I've never used a guard on my table saw.
And I've worked in a cabinet shop with 4 table saws with no guards for 20 years.
I've seen one small scratch in that time (not me).


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## TheGermanJoiner (Dec 1, 2013)

Never even installed it on my unisaw. But I would get the Excalibur myself. Been thinking about it lately but to be honest it's more on the thought of dust collection than safety. I wish I could say different. Lol


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> Never even installed it on my unisaw. But I would get the Excalibur myself. Been thinking about it lately but to be honest it s more on the thought of dust collection than safety. I wish I could say different. Lol
> 
> - TheGermanJoiner


I was wondering myself if it would be worthwhile to incorporate DC into a guard or just focus my DC efforts under the cabinet.


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## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

*I was wondering myself if it would be worthwhile to incorporate DC into a guard or just focus my DC efforts under the cabinet.*

Both is best…

When using sleds or zero clearance inserts, an awful lot of sawdust gets blown around on top.

The bottom collects a lot, and all of the non-through cuts, like dados.

The beauty of a top-notch overarm is how easy it is to swing away when it truly won't work. The reason why most guards end up off the saw is that it takes too much time to remove and replace it.

My example of the Excalibur looks like this, not the photo earlier in the thread:
http://www.amazon.com/Excalibur-Over-Arm-Blade-Cover/dp/B0032YT1EW

It swings in and out of position in seconds, without tools, and it completely removes from the saw, again without tools, if you have a ridiculously long right side crosscut that will hit the pipe. I can crosscut about 55" to the right of the blade the with guard on, and pretty much unlimited to the left. It is also easily locked in a raised position to clear crosscut fences or sleds.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

What is a blade guard?


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## Texcaster (Oct 26, 2013)

I only remove the guard for photographic reasons. LOL


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## RogerM (Oct 31, 2011)

NO!!!!!!!


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

While I'm just getting back to having a workshop and therefore have just started using a new SawStop in the last month or so, I use the guard any chance I get. That usually means for most rip cuts.

I find the SawStop guard real easy to move on and off, so I don't hesitate to put it back on when needed. And I also have the overarm dust collection. Even just just using my shop vac, it's surprising how much dust the guard collects. Far from all of it, but I really notice the difference. Without the guard, the dust spews all over the place. So that's another reason I like to use it.

For narrow rips, I can't and in that case I use a Micro Jig GRR-Ripper. It sort of acts like a moving guard. Especially if you follow the instructions that recommend keeping both hands on the GRR-Ripper. If your hands are on it, then they aren't likely to wonder into the blade.

I also take advantage of anything I can think of to keep my hands away from the blade. Use clamps on miter gauges when possible, that sort of thing. I also really like the magnetic feather board I got. Again, just another device to help hold the wood in position so my hands don't need to.


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## 8iowa (Feb 7, 2008)

I always use the blade guard on my Shopsmith. In over thirty years I've never even had a close call. My saw guard is clear plastic with anti-kickback pawls. I can see my cut in progress.

For precision crosscuts I use INCRA's 5000 sled, which allows me to keep the saw guard in place.

Another very serious danger in sawing without a guard is "kickback".


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

You use a blade guard on a crosscut sled. Just cover the area over the blade with plastic. I have used this method when my junior high students did a production line project. It worked great. I also used stops Sotheby's blade was covered at all times. For narrow rips I use the bandsaw, less chance of kickback.


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## xmastree (Sep 19, 2015)

Never used one. I hate to jinx myself, but I can't imagine doing something on a table saw that is both an appropriate function for a table saw and dangerous.


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## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

I used one on my craftsman tablesaw, but when I bought my grizzly I didn't use the guard. I'm not a fan of the split style guard at all. If it was one piece then it would probably work better. I don't compromise on the riving knife, though.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

There are a lot of solutions to dealing with carnivorous saws. I have, in the order of most valuable and used:

- A habit of NOT STANDING BEHIND THE potential PROJECTILE PATH.

Whether cutting on the ninety or a forty-five, that means, I stay away from the area in line with the fence edge to the saw blade.

- PUSH SHOES.

These are NOT push sticks, which I rarely use, other than on the band saw. I use shoes and have for forty years. I have ALL my fingers, but have lost a lot of shoes. Either a piece at a time or all at once. They not only push the wood through, they hold down at least ten or twelve inches into the board. This reduces chatter and a host of other things that could be described as premonitions of things to come [back and haunt you].

- A Merlin SPLITTER.

They hold the wood open, but which, otherwise, would pinch the back of the blade, as it moved up from the saw table. Using a splitter took kickbacks to nearly zero, and lessened the scare factor of the ones that wanted to start, but never did. If nothing else, it held the wood open long enough for me to stop the saw and approach cutting it another way.

When I have an extra four K to spend and grow tired of my left tilt Uni, my next choice would be saw with a riving knife.

- OVER-ARM GUARD AND DUST COLLECTOR, mentioned by wooddust, which he/she posted, above (mine is an earlier version of the Excalibur).

I love my over-arm, even if I don't use it for other than cutting sheet stock, wider or longer pieces of wood. While it interferes with using a push shoe, when I do use it, I get very little sawdust off the blade, even with zero clearance inserts. Too, it tells me exactly where the nasty blade is, at all times it is not pushed back out of the way. Add to that, it just looks pretty damn cool.

- HOLD DOWNS, Board Buddy's, to be specific, in my case, that hold the wood down and in, and fight kickback. Using them, just running another stick behind the stock you're cutting will keep you out of harms way, and keep things from getting wild. Of course, feather boards are gold in woodworking,period.


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## markf (Sep 16, 2015)

I have used saws of one kind or another all my adult life and I'm not better or smarter than anyone else. I don't use the blade guard. I use vigilance/focus. If you don't use that or the guard your afternoon is going to be spent a LOT different than you had planned.
We have a lot of rattlesnakes and my hearing is very poor. When I go outside I'm in snake mode 'cause my only chance is to see them first. With a little practice they're really not that hard to spot.


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## TarHeelz (Sep 13, 2012)

Yes for thru-cut rips.

For crosscuts, I remove the guard and use a sled with splitter alone.

For partial thickness cuts, I use just the splitter.

I like my fingers.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Two "take homes" I think you already realized:

1) A splitter or riving knife would have helped.
2) Learn to use a pushblock.

The lessen you learned is don't force a cut especially when not using an assist device.

What you should have done is stop the cut, shut the machine off and look for another piece of wood because if there is that much stress, its only good for short pieces or firewood.

One of the worst TS injuries I've had was a piece of 1/4" plywood kicking back and hitting me in the groin.
It had gotten left between the fence and the blade (if I had use a push block this wouldn't have happened) and as the blade was slowing down BANG and it shot back. All due to complacency and being in a hurry and being a little bit tired. Didn't think it was that bad till later on I changed my clothes and saw the skin was actually torn open much like a cut a boxer gets.

Confession: way back when I started out ww'ing I had a really crappy old C'man saw with a horrible fence that constantly caused the wood to bind. Well, stupidity + hurrying + too narrow a rip + not using a pushblock =getting the tip of my left thumb trimmed off. Not a serious injury, but it is a reminder to me 25 years later that "Its the human not the saw, stupid".



> rwe2156 and Oggie both have points and I appreciate both sides. Believe me, like rwe, I d much prefer to not have a blade guard in my way. However, if it were truly as simple as KEEP YOUR FINGERS AWAY FROM THE BLADE, I d say no one would ever have been cut by a table saw. Unfortunately, things happen. In my case, the lumber I was ripping released some stress and started to bind. My knee-jerk reaction was to hold it down to prevent kickback and I "held" it with a bit too much force and my offcut hand got way too close to the blade. Stupid? Yes. Did I have time to ponder the instinctive decision I made? Nope. Things happen.
> 
> So a blade guard won t prevent everything by any stretch of the imagination. But I ve come to the conclusion that its value may outweigh its inconvenience FOR ME. I ll not suggest that anyone else should use one because I ain t no one s Mama. So rwe, keep on keepin on without it and Oggie, keep on using it. Hopefully each and every one of us can still count to 10 for many years to come
> 
> - HokieKen


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Thanks to all for the input! I spent last night looking at my blade guard and trying to figure out how to modify it to make it less of a PITA. I still haven't come up with a solution that really satisfies me, so for the time being, I'm going to use it as-is for through rips and take it off for everything else.

I've also decided I most definitely need to prepare my cuts more thoroughly. Just because my fingers will fit doesn't mean they need to! So, I'm going to make it a point to start using push sticks/blocks even when I don't think they're strictly necessary. I'm also going to add slots to the ZCIs I made for my saw for splitters and make some splitters that can be wedged in. I had actually planned to do this any way and just never gotten around to it. I also like the mentions of the grrripper push blocks. I have plans for making one that I drew up some time ago based on some diy versions I've seen on this site and others. I just never got around to it. I'll make it a priority though to get it done now.

Anyone else have a "special" push block or stick that they really like using they want to share with us?



> Two "take homes" I think you already realized:
> 
> 1) A splitter or riving knife would have helped.
> 2) Learn to use a pushblock.
> ...


Well summarized! I spent some time last night contemplating my screw-up and everything people had shared in this thread and your dead right rwe! If I had been using a push block, I would have easily been able to control the wood and hit the switch instead of trying to use my hand to restrain the wood. And I'll be particularly careful next time I'm breaking down a sheet of 1/4" ply…OUCH! I guess the important thing is that we learn from our "boo-boos". You obviously did and hopefully time will show that I have as well. I think it comes down to complacency being the biggest danger in the shop so let's be vigilant!

Thanks again to all who shared. I know this thread has been helpful to me and hopefully others can glean a little of the wisdom that is so freely shared by experienced woodworkers and all around great guys and gals on this site.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> Yes for thru-cut rips.
> 
> For crosscuts, I remove the guard and use a sled with splitter alone.
> 
> ...


I appreciate your input but I'm afraid I can't trust anything someone with that user name says. JUST KIDDING!!! ;-) I couldn't let a 'heel off without a little friendly razzin'.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> There are a lot of solutions to dealing with carnivorous saws. I have, in the order of most valuable and used:
> 
> - A habit of NOT STANDING BEHIND THE potential PROJECTILE PATH.
> 
> Whether cutting on the ninety or a forty-five, that means, I stay away from the area in line with the fence edge to the saw blade.


Me too! I've never, knock on wood, had something come flying back but I've boards bind and try to. I think my Jr High shop teacher ingrained that in me and luckily, it stuck.


> - PUSH SHOES.
> 
> These are NOT push sticks, which I rarely use, other than on the band saw. I use shoes and have for forty years. I have ALL my fingers, but have lost a lot of shoes. Either a piece at a time or all at once. They not only push the wood through, they hold down at least ten or twelve inches into the board. This reduces chatter and a host of other things that could be described as premonitions of things to come [back and haunt you].


I've never used one, just blocks and sticks. The one's I've seen look like they would be awkward to use having your hand ahead and above like that. But it's certainly easy enough to make one and find out if it works for me too. Is there a particular brand/design you like better than others?


> - A Merlin SPLITTER.
> 
> They hold the wood open, but which, otherwise, would pinch the back of the blade, as it moved up from the saw table. Using a splitter took kickbacks to nearly zero, and lessened the scare factor of the ones that wanted to start, but never did. If nothing else, it held the wood open long enough for me to stop the saw and approach cutting it another way.
> 
> When I have an extra four K to spend and grow tired of my left tilt Uni, my next choice would be saw with a riving knife.


I've never heard of the Merlin so I googled it. The guard that came with my Powermatic looks exactly like that but with the clear blade guard added. So I'll be using it for my rip cuts. I really like the anti-kickback pawls as well.


> - OVER-ARM GUARD AND DUST COLLECTOR, mentioned by wooddust, which he/she posted, above (mine is an earlier version of the Excalibur).
> 
> I love my over-arm, even if I don t use it for other than cutting sheet stock, wider or longer pieces of wood. While it interferes with using a push shoe, when I do use it, I get very little sawdust off the blade, even with zero clearance inserts. Too, it tells me exactly where the nasty blade is, at all times it is not pushed back out of the way. Add to that, it just looks pretty damn cool.
> 
> ...


I made some featherboards and have used them quite a bit on my router table but not much for my saw. When I start ripping down lumber, I usually start with just one jointed edge on the fence and don't like the idea of the featherboards binding me up due to the board not being uniform width. Obviously that doesn't apply to boards that are already milled on both edges so I'll try to get in the habit of using them when appropriate.


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## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

I do not use the guard. I use push sticks when the board gets near (3-4") the blade for rip cuts and a sled for all cross cuts. If the piece is small I use the band saw.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> I only remove the guard for photographic reasons. LOL
> 
> - Texcaster


That gave me a good laugh! I love it when I see that online and in magazines. I'm sure it's a legal thing but everybody knows it's bs


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

A few have mentioned the blade guard getting in the way of seeing the blade. I don't understand why you need to see the blade during the cut.

If I'm ripping I set the fence to the size cut I want and concentrate on keeping the wood against the fence.

If I'm cross cutting, I'm typically using a sled and can't use the guard. But even then, when lining up the cut, I use the slot in the sled, not the blade. Now, I don't have a guard on my sled (probably should look into that), so I can of course see the blade during those cuts, but again, once wood is positioned (before the cut), I don't see the reason to actually watch the blade make the cut.

I'm a novice, and therefore have pretty limited experience.

So why would I ever need to see the blade make the cut?


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## Daruc (Apr 20, 2015)

> A few have mentioned the blade guard getting in the way of seeing the blade. *I don t understand why you need to see the blade during the cut.*
> 
> If I m ripping I set the fence to the size cut I want and concentrate on keeping the wood against the fence.
> 
> ...


I always watch the cut being made, 
as well as the pc staying against the fence 
and I also watch the kerf as the board travels past the blade. 
I look at the space on each side of the blade as it passes the front teeth, 
I watch the back of the blade to see if the teeth are closer on one side or not, 
I also watch the wood entering the blade looking for defects like knots or differences in hardness as the wood is passing through so that I can adjust my speed or hold down a little harder. 
I like to be focused on everything about the cut. 
A glance at the fence, a glance at the kerf being made, but mostly focused on the cut.
Experience has taught me to do all of these things as I cut, maybe I haven't explained it well but that's my opinion.


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## dschlic1 (Jan 3, 2013)

I have an old Craftsman 113 series saw. The only time I don't use the blade guard is when making dado cuts. Due to the design of the guard and splitter, I can use the guard when using my cross cut sled. So it seems like old tech works better than new tech. Now if I can only get the dust collection to work…..


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## xmastree (Sep 19, 2015)

> I do not use the guard. I use push sticks when the board gets near (3-4") the blade for rip cuts and a sled for all cross cuts. If the piece is small I use the band saw.
> 
> - dbray45


That's what I meant to say. If the cut is appropriate for a different saw, go to the different saw.


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## justgrif (Dec 5, 2013)

I use the guard whenever possible, and make sure my blade height is just above the height of the stock I'm cutting. Plus push sticks. I try to keep my hands as far removed from that blade as possible. It only takes a few extra seconds to set up. I also wear my safety glasses religiously.

Now, I'm actually transitioning from a machine-heavy process to a workflow where I only use my machines for basic stock prep. I plane and handsaw my pieces to exact size and hand-cut all joinery. Because of this, I use my tablesaw more seldom and so it doesn't seem so repetitive when I'm attaching and removing the blade guard.

Even with less tablesaw use, I'm planning on building a crosscut sled…right after I make a new and improved shooting board.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I use mine whenever I am doing a through cut. For dadoes and such, I don't, since the guard on my contractor saw mounts to the splitter.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Ken, I use a SharkGuard and like it a lot. However, it might not be totally easy to use with your roll around saw.


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## SirIrb (Jan 12, 2015)

A blade what?


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## jusfine (May 22, 2010)

Art, I just looked up the SharkGuard, looks like that would be a good option for my Unisaw.

In our "instant oatmeal" society, I am having a hard time swallowing the fact that you order it and it takes up to 4 months for delivery…


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## Glenhuon (Nov 3, 2015)

In our workshop we insist the guards stay on at all times. There can be up to 15-16 people working there in any one day. Not all are used to working with machine tools, those of us that are keep an eye on the rest. The first thing we tell new members is that every machine is a potential "Finger Shortner", if you are not sure of it, ask a buddy who is. The rule is there must be at least 2 in the workshop when power tools are in use. Since we are not for profit community shed, the OHS guys have left us alone. But, we do emphasise that the first bad injury will be the one that shuts us down. So far things have gone well for 6 years, long may it continue.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> Ken, I use a SharkGuard and like it a lot. However, it might not be totally easy to use with your roll around saw.
> 
> - AandCstyle


That is a nice guard and they have a splitter mount model that fits my saw but it still isn't at the convenience level I'm after. I bit pricier than I'd like too. It does look like a well made product and if I had a stationary saw, the overhead model would be a nice addition.



> Art, I just looked up the SharkGuard, looks like that would be a good option for my Unisaw.
> 
> In our "instant oatmeal" society, I am having a hard time swallowing the fact that you order it and it takes up to 4 months for delivery…
> 
> - jusfine


I found the same kind of thing with the Excalibur some people mentioned earlier in the thread. I can understand why though, not a lot of woodworkers even use a guard. I'm sure that even of the ones that do, few are willing to pay $100+ for one so I imagine most are on a made-to-order basis.



> In our workshop we insist the guards stay on at all times. There can be up to 15-16 people working there in any one day. Not all are used to working with machine tools, those of us that are keep an eye on the rest. The first thing we tell new members is that every machine is a potential "Finger Shortner", if you are not sure of it, ask a buddy who is. The rule is there must be at least 2 in the workshop when power tools are in use. Since we are not for profit community shed, the OHS guys have left us alone. But, we do emphasise that the first bad injury will be the one that shuts us down. So far things have gone well for 6 years, long may it continue.
> 
> - Glenhuon


Glen - First welcome to Lumberjocks! I'm glad to hear your shop practices. While I'm 100% in favor of our right to decide what safety devices we do/don't use in our own shops, I don't think the same freedom applies in the workplace. Non-profit or otherwise. OSHA is a PITA for businesses like the one I work for but they also serve a worthwhile function IMHO. We have the same rules in our machine shop and it by no means has kept everyone completely uninjured over the years But, we've been running a shop and foundry for over 100 years now and there has never been a fatality or severe permanent disability. When your responsible for the well-being of others, efficiency and productivity take a back seat to safety and good practices.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

You can definitely make your own splitters but you might want to check out MicroJig's splitter system (same people who make the Gripper). I didn't use a splitter for years but finally decided it was time after the plywood kickback incident.

As far as pushblocks (notice I didn't say push sticks ;-) ;-)?) they can be as simple as a piece o 2×6 turned up on edge with an angle at the back. Or I use a piece of plywood. I have some made with 3/4 and some with 1/4. Figure out a design that puts your hand at least 3" away from the blade.Put a little heel at the back.

I make them as I need them. When they get chewed up from passing over the blade I throw em in the scrap pile. You can get fancy put handles on them, or spend $100 on a Gripper, but to me they are disposable items.


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## CB_Cohick (Dec 22, 2014)

I use the blade guard every chance I can, which is almost never. If by some remote chance I am making a cut where I do not need a ZCI, then yes I will absolutely use my blade guard if I remember to put it on first. I did get a MicroJig Splitter installed for my ZCI a while back and have been pleased with that, but of course that has no blade guard functionality. It seems that one of those overhead arms is the best solution if you happen to have room for one.


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## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

> There are a lot of solutions to dealing with carnivorous saws. I have, in the order of most valuable and used:
> 
> - A habit of NOT STANDING BEHIND THE potential PROJECTILE PATH.
> 
> ...


I thought this was a great post for those with older saws! Staying out of the "projectile path is a good idea with any saw I would think.
Another safety tip sometimes mentioned is, watch your bodies balance point, so as if something happens, you wont tend to fall back into the blade. Or, try to keep most of your weight on a foot behind you.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> You can definitely make your own splitters but you might want to check out MicroJig s splitter system (same people who make the Gripper). I didn t use a splitter for years but finally decided it was time after the plywood kickback incident.
> 
> As far as pushblocks (notice I didn t say push sticks ;-) ;-)?) they can be as simple as a piece o 2×6 turned up on edge with an angle at the back. Or I use a piece of plywood. I have some made with 3/4 and some with 1/4. Figure out a design that puts your hand at least 3" away from the blade.Put a little heel at the back.
> 
> ...


My only hesitation with the micro-jig splitter is that I use two different kerf blades regularly and have a ZCI for each. So, to use the MJ set-up, I'd have to buy 2. I've also read several complaints about the little "legs" breaking on the splitters. You haven't had any problems with that?

I do have a couple of simple pushblocks I use for thin strip ripping. My only problem with them is I just don't feel like I have as much control over the wood as I would like, particularly on longer boards. I like the idea of the MJ grrripper and its versatility. Especially using 2 for hand-over-hand feeding of longer boards. I'm not about to spend that kinda dough on something just to try it out though. I drew up some plans a while back but never did anything with them. I'm gonna go ahead and make me a set though and see if I like them as well as I think I might.

Once I get them built and tested, I'll make my drawings available (free of course) for anyone interested.


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

I have two table saws. One is a PM 2000, and one is a Sawstop Professional. I generally use the PM for jig work and everything else besides ripping. I use the Sawstop for ripping. When I'm ripping on the Sawstop the blade guard is always on the saw 95% of the time. When it needs to be taken off it is a very simple process to remove it and when it needs to be put back on it is a very simple process to reinstall it. The guard is engineered very well and has a built in riving knife and anti-kickback pawls. The blade guard almost never is a hindrance so I'm always glad to have it. It is also a great comfort to know that if I get part of my hand into the sawblade that the Sawstop will most likely prevent an injury or at least minimize the seriousness of an injury. In spite of all of this I try to always maintain my alertness and awareness that I can be seriously injured. I am also always in the process of trying to improve my jigs to make them safer and more convenient.

I have used table saws for over 40 years and have never been injured seriously and have only had one kickback incident. However, since I am now 65 I realize that I have to be more aware of the dangers because I am sure that my concentration is not what it use to be. So I try to always be alert and think ahead. But let's face it, you can always be seriously injured in a woodworking shop by any number of different things.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> A blade what?
> 
> - SirIrb


Guard. It's a guy you pay to watch your saw blade while your sleeping so no one steals it.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> I have two table saws. One is a PM 2000, and one is a Sawstop Professional. I generally use the PM for jig work and everything else besides ripping. I use the Sawstop for ripping. When I m ripping on the Sawstop the blade guard is always on the saw 95% of the time. When it needs to be taken off it is a very simple process to remove it and when it needs to be put back on it is a very simple process to reinstall it. The guard is engineered very well and has a built in riving knife and anti-kickback pawls. The blade guard almost never is a hindrance so I m always glad to have it. It is also a great comfort to know that if I get part of my hand into the sawblade that the Sawstop will most likely prevent an injury or at least minimize the seriousness of an injury. In spite of all of this I try to always maintain my alertness and awareness that I can be seriously injured. I am also always in the process of trying to improve my jigs to make them safer and more convenient.
> 
> I have used table saws for over 40 years and have never been injured seriously and have only had one kickback incident. However, since I am now 65 I realize that I have to be more aware of the dangers because I am sure that my concentration is not what it use to be. So I try to always be alert and think ahead. But let s face it, you can always be seriously injured in a woodworking shop by any number of different things.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the input Charles. It sounds like, ironically, the saw that needs a guard the least has one of the best designed ones! I wish more saws came from the factory with well designed guards that take into account all the operations we do with sleds and jigs. But I suppose the makers are aware that for most woodworkers it's not a big selling feature. At least I've never heard anyone say something like "I like the Powermatic saw better but I bought the SawStop because it's got a better blade guard".


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## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

Well the best bet is to keep your fingers away from the blade , *If the wood can go under the blade guard to be cut so can your fingers* if they are in the right place so you still have to use your common sense to keep your hands clear of the blade on any tool.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> My only hesitation with the micro-jig splitter is that I use two different kerf blades regularly and have a ZCI for each. So, to use the MJ set-up, I d have to buy 2. I ve also read several complaints about the little "legs" breaking on the splitters. You haven t had any problems with that?


Not so far. One thing I like about them is being able to quickly pull them out when doing grooves.

Curious why need two diff kerf blades?



> I do have a couple of simple pushblocks I use for thin strip ripping. My only problem with them is I just don t feel like I have as much control over the wood as I would like, particularly on longer boards. I like the idea of the MJ grrripper and its versatility. Especially using 2 for hand-over-hand feeding of longer boards.
> - HokieKen


What's the purpose of "hand-over-hand" technique? I'm having trouble visualizing why this would be necessary. Seems to me the more times you reposition your hands on the stock the more chance of slipping, etc.

The push block is only used when the wood is close to the blade, maybe the last 8-10" of the cut. It stays close at hand until then.

My technique for ripping long pieces (had to think about this a minute) is to use my left hand as a combination featherboard and hold down. It is locked in place about 4" behind the blade and I do not move it during the cut. If something is going wrong I stop the feed and use it to turn off the saw.

With my other hand I am feeding the wood, repositioning it as needed and when I get close enough I pick up the push block, take my left hand away and use the push block to feed the wood.

Another good safety device when ripping long stock is an outfeed support, either a table or a roller stand.

One of the most valuable things I learned over the years when using machinery is don't feed any wood without looking at it first. I'm looking for bows, cups, warps. Loose knots or pieces of loose knots thrown back at 90MPH can hurt you bad.

With the planer and jointer I'm looking mainly at grain direction.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Blade guard on a SawStop-can't help but wonder why?

To save a cartridge?

:-D


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> My only hesitation with the micro-jig splitter is that I use two different kerf blades regularly and have a ZCI for each. So, to use the MJ set-up, I d have to buy 2. I ve also read several complaints about the little "legs" breaking on the splitters. You haven t had any problems with that?
> Not so far. One thing I like about them is being able to quickly pull them out when doing grooves.
> 
> Curious why need two diff kerf blades?


Don't necessarily "need" but it's what I ended up with. I have a rip and crosscut blade that are ~1/8" kerf and a fine crosscut and a combination blade that are ~3/32 kerf. I tried just using a 1/8 kerf insert for all of them but when I use the combination blade for plywood, it still leaves some tear out right at the edge of the cut. So I made a second ZCI for the thinner kerf and that took care of the tearout. I guess now that I think about it though, I could probably use the 3/32 splitters with the 1/8" kerf blades without any problems. So maybe I wouldn't need 2 sets.



> I do have a couple of simple pushblocks I use for thin strip ripping. My only problem with them is I just don t feel like I have as much control over the wood as I would like, particularly on longer boards. I like the idea of the MJ grrripper and its versatility. Especially using 2 for hand-over-hand feeding of longer boards.
> - HokieKen
> 
> What s the purpose of "hand-over-hand" technique? I m having trouble visualizing why this would be necessary. Seems to me the more times you reposition your hands on the stock the more chance of slipping, etc.
> ...


I rip long boards in pretty much the same way. I guess I'm just thinking that with a second push block that holds both sides of the board, I could guide it right over and past the blade and have better control of the board after the cut to keep it from wandering any. Of course, it may be kind of redundant since I guess splitters will take care of holding the board to the fence after the cut anyway. Even so, building 2 only takes a little extra time vs building one so I'll make 2 anyway 

And good point about the outfeed support. I have 2 roller stands I use whenever I have stock longer than about 4'.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

I use StopSaw gloves when working with my Delta.


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## bearkatwood (Aug 19, 2015)

I had a guard that came with the used saw I bought about 8 years ago, but I don't think I know where it is if I still have it. I have just learned not to ever get my hot-dogs in the line of fire. I just added some imagery to help with the warning zone. I sacrifice the bears toes instead of mine, fingers I mean


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

this debate will rage on forever there are tablesaws i personally dont and have never used one but i do use all the common sense i have left including push sticks and splitters that will help a lot with the kick back problem i have not experienced in many years.i have not had so much as a scratch since i first started using a tablesaw when i was about 14,didnt have much common sense then but was afraid enough not to do anything stupid.with 2 incidence in 6 months id say your safety skills need some fine tuning lost fingers dont grow back.not trying to put you down ive just seen enough guys with stumps including my own father,take care of yourself and never take your eyes off that blade.


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## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

Nope. I'm just real careful and make sure my body parts are not close to the blade. If I am near the blade, I wait until it stops completely before doing anything on the saw. I do unplug the saw to change blades. Actually, I unplug it anytime I'm not using it or any of my power tools.
I was in sales for a cabinet and lighting gallery for 2-1/2 years. We made custom cabinets in addition to factory built cabinets. The cabinet guy said he know of more accidents with the guard than with the guard. His father-in-law had been building cabinets for 35 years. Still had all his fingers.
Main thing is to watch, concentrate, and not be distracted.


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## Daruc (Apr 20, 2015)

> What s the purpose of "hand-over-hand" technique? I m having trouble visualizing why this would be necessary. Seems to me the more times you reposition your hands on the stock the more chance of slipping, etc.
> 
> The push block is only used when the wood is close to the blade, maybe the last 8-10" of the cut. It stays close at hand until then.
> 
> ...


I believe the hand over hand method he is referring to would be used with a couple of gripper like push blocks.
This method lets you keep the wood moving in one continuous cut, 
instead of stopping every time you reposition your hands. 
To me you get a cleaner cut without the possibility of burn marks when you don't stop.


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## Momcanfixit (Sep 19, 2012)

Blade guard with anti-kickback pawls is on for every through cut unless it's thinner than the space between the blade guard and fence. With a piece that thin I use my Grrripper. I can't imagine pitching my blade guard, but that's just me.
Seriously considering a Sawstop just for my own piece of mind.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> Blade guard with anti-kickback pawls is on for every through cut unless it s thinner than the space between the blade guard and fence. With a piece that thin I use my Grrripper.


For thin stuff, just use a thin-rip jig to avoid the drama. You can buy or make 'em easily.

Cheers,
Brad


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> this debate will rage on forever there are tablesaws i personally dont and have never used one but i do use all the common sense i have left including push sticks and splitters that will help a lot with the kick back problem i have not experienced in many years.i have not had so much as a scratch since i first started using a tablesaw when i was about 14,didnt have much common sense then but was afraid enough not to do anything stupid.with 2 incidence in 6 months id say your safety skills need some fine tuning lost fingers dont grow back.not trying to put you down ive just seen enough guys with stumps including my own father,take care of yourself and never take your eyes off that blade.
> 
> - pottz


 Yes, my safety skills obviously need some fine tuning. That's why I started this thread - to get input from others as to how to tune them. And it's been very useful and there's been a lot of good input from a lot of LJs. I appreciate you adding yours to the pot!


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> Blade guard with anti-kickback pawls is on for every through cut unless it s thinner than the space between the blade guard and fence. With a piece that thin I use my Grrripper. I can t imagine pitching my blade guard, but that s just me.
> Seriously considering a Sawstop just for my own piece of mind.
> 
> - Sandra


Thanks for your input Sandra. That definitely seems to be the wisest way to go. The unfortunate thing with most blade guards is that they're so inconvenient to take on/off when you're using a sled or jig that won't work with them. I don't know about you, but I usually rip a few pieces then put my cc sled on and crosscut them to length. So that would require removing my throat insert, loosening the splitter bolt, loosening a bolt that holds the back of the guard, removing the guard and replacing the insert. That's a lot of inconvenience. But if I felt that was the only way to protect all my digits, that's what I'd do!

One of the conclusions I've drawn from this thread is that a grrripper (or something similar) will go a long way to providing good board control and keeping meat far from the blade. So one of the first things on my agenda is going to be to make a couple along with some more pushblocks and sticks.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> I had a guard that came with the used saw I bought about 8 years ago, but I don t think I know where it is if I still have it. I have just learned not to ever get my hot-dogs in the line of fire. I just added some imagery to help with the warning zone. I sacrifice the bears toes instead of mine, fingers I mean
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Crap. You just made my ZCIs suck. Now I have to get out the masking tape and paint or I'll never quench the flood of envy that is surging through me right now.

Seriously, thanks for the input and that is a cool push "bear". But that ZCI is awesome! Did you put some kind of clearcoat to keep the red paint from transferring to your wood?


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> Blade guard with anti-kickback pawls is on for every through cut unless it s thinner than the space between the blade guard and fence. With a piece that thin I use my Grrripper.
> 
> For thin stuff, just use a thin-rip jig to avoid the drama. You can buy or make em easily.
> 
> ...


Brad, I've seen tons of those jigs in all shapes and sizes but I just don't get it. Don't get me wrong, I understand how they work and see how they could work well. But, it requires you to adjust the fence on every cut, right? How is it better than just setting the fence and using something like the grrripper that Sandra uses? I'm not knocking it or saying it doesn't work, I'm sure it does. I've seen posts where people explain how it's used but I don't recall anyone ever explaining why it's used instead of just using the fence. Can you enlighten me? I have a bunch of ball bearings that need a purpose in life so if you can tell me why I need one I can put one of them to work!


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> What s the purpose of "hand-over-hand" technique? I m having trouble visualizing why this would be necessary. Seems to me the more times you reposition your hands on the stock the more chance of slipping, etc.
> 
> The push block is only used when the wood is close to the blade, maybe the last 8-10" of the cut. It stays close at hand until then.
> 
> ...


That too ^


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

To be clear on what I call a push shoe, here are a couple pictures. I have them made in Masonite and 3/8" through 3/4" ply scraps to allow me to use them for most cuts, down to about 1/8"..

As was said above, I don't use them until my hand gets, approximately sixteen inches from the blade. I keep them above the table so I can grab one, if I forget to have one laying ready to complete a cut.

I've been using these for over forty years. From the get go, I couldn't understand why anyone would want to push wood past a vindictive blade with minimal means of holding wood down (I have back trouble - there's a yellow streak up it a foot wide, regarding my equipment).

When you think of it, using just a push stick is insane and asking for an eventual kickback. I've seen so many so called experts pushing wood through with just a stick, even as they had to, full well, know they were only holding down the wood at the front of the blade, as the back wanted to lift the wood. That yet baffles me, since I still see it.

Push shoes and splitters have cut my kick-backs to a minute fraction of what they were. To give an idea of what a difference they can make, I use them to, for example, do inside cuts (cut out on the table and against the fence) out of 1/2" stock. Normally, the cut out would become a projectile, but with a shoe trimmed for the job, the leaving from the cut is pushed through.


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

Use mine now religiously unless the function cannot be done with it on. Go HOKIES! (I'm from ROanoke)


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> To be clear on what I call a push shoe, here are a couple pictures. I have them made in Masonite and 3/8" through 3/4" ply scraps to allow me to use them for most cuts, down to about 1/8"..
> 
> As was said above, I don t use them until my hand gets, approximately sixteen inches from the blade. I keep them above the table so I can grab one, if I forget to have one laying ready to complete a cut.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the pics Kelly. Your shoes look like they give better control than some that I've seen that put your hand much farther ahead of the back of the board.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

> Use mine now religiously unless the function cannot be done with it on. Go HOKIES! (I m from ROanoke)
> 
> - bonesbr549


Me too Bones! Small world!


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

> Use mine now religiously unless the function cannot be done with it on. Go HOKIES! (I m from ROanoke)
> 
> - bonesbr549
> 
> ...


I'll be movin back to smith mountain lake in two years after retirement. Take care.


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## wisconsinjimmy (Sep 22, 2009)

I got bit for doing a really stupid move and that was I had the saw off but still coasting when I reached over with my right hand and pushed a cut off out of the way and well the finger shows it lost some meat but still have the tip. I see this all the time on you tube a piece of board is pushed through and the operator reaches over the blade that is still spinning.


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