# Dowels vs screws



## TinWhiskers (Oct 17, 2015)

Would love to make an Adironcack chair with dowels instead of screws. Maybe 3 bolts would be used. Would this stay together?


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

All depends on how you make it. If it was designed for gluing, no problem, but if the design is bad, forget it. Remember the wood will only do what wood will do.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

I'd like to hear what others think, but gluing could cause a problem. Being exposed to the elements, there will be a lot of movement seasonally and even day to day. The dowels are a rigid connection and really don't allow for movement. They could also swell and crack the joint. Screws allow for some movement.


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## TinWhiskers (Oct 17, 2015)

I've made about 10 of them. Never used dowels on anything. Seems like a good thing to learn. Not sure what you mean by 'designed for gluing.'


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Designed for gluing is a design where no fasteners are needed because of the joinery. The loads are perpendicular to glue planes instead of parallel, compression loads instead of tension loads, etc

Screws get out of hand. They have their places, but to me, the fewer metal fasteners the better.

M


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## TinWhiskers (Oct 17, 2015)

ahhhhh…I think I see. Might try one with less screws. Maybe an experimental for indoors. Thx for the input.

Kim


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## jerryminer (Jun 15, 2014)

I think you'll be fine replacing screws with dowels--as long as the dowels are made of a rot-resistant wood. I've repaired lots of outdoor furniture that was doweled together-with-I think-maple dowels, that rotted away long before the rest of the piece. Your dimensions are small enough (narrow pieces) that wood movement should not be an issue.

Are you familiar with Miller dowels? They are basically a direct replacement for screws. Miller Dowel


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> I ve made about 10 of them. Never used dowels on anything. Seems like a good thing to learn. Not sure what you mean by designed for gluing.
> 
> - TinWhiskers


If it ain't broke don't fix it.


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## Momcanfixit (Sep 19, 2012)

Interested in the responses here. I've made 4 Adirondack chairs and I'm not a fan of how the screws look holding the back slats onto the upper support. The ones I made however were all painted bright colours, so the fasteners aren't as noticeable.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Why not just countersink the screw holes and use a plug cutter to cap them off?


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## TinWhiskers (Oct 17, 2015)

> If it ain t broke don t fix it.
> 
> - AlaskaGuy


I've seen chairs for sale with exposed screws. Instant turn off. Screws with caps a clear winner while not adding expense to building. Invisible fasteners one more step above. It aint brokoe, just better.



> Interested in the responses here. I ve made 4 Adirondack chairs and I m not a fan of how the screws look holding the back slats onto the upper support. The ones I made however were all painted bright colours, so the fasteners aren t as noticeable.
> 
> - Sandra


Pardon my poor choice of pic to use. Normally when drilling I'll make a straight line for the 2 dozen screws for the slats. I had a dumb ass day. Those and the seat slat screws I would like to hide. I use 3 shoulder bolts to attach the frame to the rocker base. Those will stay.



> Why not just countersink the screw holes and use a plug cutter to cap them off?
> 
> - dhazelton


Please scroll to the pic. Just trying for better.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Perhaps do the plugs a little smaller and try to match wood better?


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## TinWhiskers (Oct 17, 2015)

> Perhaps do the plugs a little smaller and try to match wood better?
> 
> - rwe2156


Thx. That chair is a 50% size chair. Would fit a 2 yr old well. Thus the plugs look big. I will try to see how small I can go. Plus line up the grain better. Still going to experiment with dowels. And the Miller dowels I have not heard of. Those deserve a look at.

Kim


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## Fettler (Dec 6, 2012)

It's all a matter of wood movement. The book understanding wood has a lot of information on the subject.

If you bind two piece of wood at 90 degree angles then you should only have to worry about the strength of the joint. If wood is bound parallel or less than 45 degrees it can get tricky. Screws or nails allow for more movement then glued joints.

For the back slats and chair bottom, one dowel centered would probably work. I'd cut my own dowels (you can make a dowel cutter from a hand plane iron) from the same species. For the legs I think lag bolts are still the best route.


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## TinWhiskers (Oct 17, 2015)

Have ordered the book . Thx for the tip.

I tried a chair with one screw in each back slat. Too much side movement in the back. Need two screws. Lag bolts for sure on the legs. Or shoulder bolts with a nut on the other end.

Never gave it a thought about making my own dowels. Huge thx for steering me that way.

Kim


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## TinWhiskers (Oct 17, 2015)

Got the book. Need to read it.

Did do the chair. Came out well. Feels sturdy. No screws but for 2 shoulder bolts on each side as seen in the pic. Will be my shop chair till spring for testing.


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

Looks great.

How did you do the fasteners?


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## TinWhiskers (Oct 17, 2015)

Dowels using a dowel guide pin for locating holes.


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## TinWhiskers (Oct 17, 2015)

I am not sure the store bought dowels are the strongest. What would be the best wood to use to make my own?


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## OldGuysRule (Sep 27, 2015)

I'd say cypress dowels. It resits rot and is strong. Cedar would be to soft but does resit rot.

Be sure and post your results!

Good looking chair by the way!


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

I saw the Miller Dowel listing by Jerry, looked them up, they offer teak dowels. I wonder how much those babies are!
But Kim that chair really looks much better than the one with the capped screws. I've kind of always liked the look of the capped screws, but that looks much better. I wonder how it would look with the dark teak dowels sticking through and sanded to the surface, finished. Interesting options! 
Nice chair!!


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## Ger21 (Oct 29, 2009)

You might want to try white oak for the dowels.


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## TinWhiskers (Oct 17, 2015)

Please remember that the first pic with the plugs is a chair sized for a 2 yr old. The plugs are a bit large. Plus I normally take care in doing a better job. That was not a good pic to use.

The chair with dowels is a full size chair. My goal was to make a chair with no fasteners showing. On your idea with the dark dowels sticking through, I would rather use capped screws with walnut caps. Never used contrasting wood for caps but I should try it. Would look nice.

Thx for the compliments


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

I love dowels! I think it would work fine using a good waterproof glue. Remember, dowels (also known as "tree nails" or "trunnels") held wooden ships together for many centuries *USING NO GLUE!* And the sided of these ships sat in the water for years and also were baked in the sun for years. A well tested method.

Planeman


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## TinWhiskers (Oct 17, 2015)

Titebond III

Haven't tested yet, but I think the chairs will float. )


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