# thompson 5/8 bowl gouge



## cdaniels (Apr 16, 2014)

I started out turning like a lot of people with a set of benjamins best tools. that was about a year, 3 lathes and a lot of money ago. Now I just bought a thompson V flute 5/8" bowl gouge and I cannot do a dang thing with it, can't even get a blank round. the thing just makes a mess and catches and bounces off the wood and makes uneven cuts. I'm sure this is due to me since so many know thompson tools to be among the best but I can take my benjamins best bowl gouge and turn spaghetti strings like butter. is there some sort of technique to using a larger gouge than a 1/2" that i'm used to or am I just not sharpening right? I use the oneway and wolverine and matched the gouge to the factory grind, most of my other bowl gouges are between 45-50 degrees because I can't quite get comfortable with a 60 for some reason. any ideas?


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## loiblb (Jul 6, 2015)

I'm sort of in the same point in turning. I'm looking at my first Thompson tool maybe a skew now, not sure what size I need.
I just bought a 3/4" Robert Sorby roughing gouge and keep the grind the same as it came. It has JUST been a big problem for me to use.
I hope/guess it's just my skill level needs more work.


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## jeffski1 (Nov 29, 2008)

Sounds like you have the sharpening down because you have success with your BB tools-so it doesn't sound like a poor turning technique ect.Maybe the Thompsons do not take a sharp edge with the type of wheel on your grinder because of the harder steel in the Thompson tool-Im guessing at this though.I have a set of Thompsons and BB bowl gouges and use CBN wheels-they both come off the grinder equally sharp.My bowl gouges all have traditional 60 degree bevels on them.Maybe find a turning club in your area or an experienced turner to help?.


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

I looked up that gouge, a rather acute back grind on the sides. If it is catching on the front, I'd try and roll it a little to use the sides.
Also, I have seen a few guys knock off a little at the very back bevel of the V, so if you do roll it over, it doesn't hit the back of the bevel and catch.
Here's a Cap Eddie video showing how people grind the back differently that the factory.


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## gwilki (May 14, 2014)

cdaniels: Did you have the problem right off the bat? Doug sends his tools sharpened and ready to go, unlike other makers. If you had the problem with Doug's grind, I would suggest that you call Doug. He is a great guy to talk to and I know that he will get you through is.

I have his 5/8" V and use it a lot. One thing that I have found with Doug's tools is that it takes a few more passes on the grinder to get a good edge on them than it takes with tools with softer metals.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

You do not need CBN wheel to sharpen Doug Thompson tools! Doug said as much in one of his sharpening videos.

http://thompsonlathetools.com/sharpening/

You now own the gouge go ahead and put a 45 degree bevel on your new gouge. You do not say if have an optional wolverine Vari grind jig. If don't have one need to get one. Also get yourself something to measure bevel angle if don't have one.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-Steel-Protractor-17/100349259?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-203219287-_-100349259-_-N

John likes sweep back wings on his bowl gouges (Ellsworth Irish, side grind). He also likes double bevel on some bowl gouges.

http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworking/forum/turning.pl/page/2/md/read/id/492597/sbj/my-thompson-gouge-is-getting-too-short/

Had no problem hogging wood with my 5/8" U shape Thompson gouge but did have a problem making finishing cuts at first. Not a problem anymore!

My wolverine Vari grind jig does not have notches and instructions are different than what Doug tells you and put out by Oneway today. I use 2" verus 1 3/4" when inserting my tool in the jig.

Bowl turners often have more than one gouge and use different bevel angle for different style bowls. Have two ½" gouges one with fingernail & one with swept back wings grind both work well and each has different bevel angle. Use a fingernail grind with same angle came with on the 5/8" gouge.

If go to Wood Central tool grind page will folk with just one gouge & and others with more than one gouge.

http://www.woodcentral.com/newforum/grinds.shtml

I like bout U & V shape bowl gouges and cannot say which is better other they both work well. Takes skill to turn a complete bowl start to finish with 5/8" gouge and bigger. So having a smaller gouge might be better for most folks.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Give Doug Thompson a call … he is easy to reach via phone (or email, or Facebook), and is very helpful. He wants his tools to work for you.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Had the same exact issue with my first bowl gouge, you'll get used to it.


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## cdaniels (Apr 16, 2014)

kept trying some more today with it, sharpened it up and roughed a little more out, hard birdseye maple isn't easy but I think i'll try again tomorrow on a fresh piece. thanks for all the replies i'll keep trying it out.


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## HapHazzard (Jan 9, 2016)

Bear in mind that the steel he uses (AISI A11), is not a high-speed steel. It's a very tough, A-series, cold-work tool steel, with very good hardness and wear-resistance, but don't get it hot! If anything more than a quick pass on the grinder is required, I strongly recommend using a wet grinder.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

> ... hard birdseye maple isn't easy …


You can say that again! Birdseye Maple, IMHO, is highly susceptible to tear-out. Even good sharp tools can grab the swirling grain and tear it out in a heartbeat.


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## cdaniels (Apr 16, 2014)

I think it's my technique, every now and then I get shavings with a gouge that peel off like ribbon, takes no effort whatsoever and relaxes everything, but 98% of the time I feel like i'm white knuckle brawling with the wood. going to chalk it up to being a beginner and not using the right technique.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I'm impressed with your willingness to use birdseye for gouge practice. Lay the tool over on it's side, let the bevel rub a bit and slowly lift the back of the tool until you are cutting.


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## HapHazzard (Jan 9, 2016)

I've experienced those white knuckles too. I've found it only makes things worse if I try to keep turning when I feel that way. I get way too nervous and way too focussed on correcting the damage I've caused instead of my technique. It helps to turn off the lathe, check the edge on the tool I'm using, and either work on something else for a while or go have a beer.


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## cdaniels (Apr 16, 2014)

This is what my bb looks like off the grinder, does it look about right?


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## gwilki (May 14, 2014)

That looks perfect.

What cut is giving you a problem - push cut, pull cut - both? The only cut that this profile may not be good for is inside a bowl, transitioning from the side to the bottom. The hard heel on this grind will cause the tool to lift from the bottom surface. If that is your problem, you can soften the heel free hand on the grinder. Otherwise the angle seems good and the sweep is perfect.


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## soob (Feb 3, 2015)

You can do the same cuts with different grinds, but not necessarily holding the tool the exact same way. If your old gouge was ground differently you will have to change your techniques to match your new one.


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## cdaniels (Apr 16, 2014)

I think the length of the tool and the handle is throwing me off a little as well. when I was roughtin the outside of a wet maple bowl today and after I had most of the outside smooth I went to run over it again with one solid push cut and I noticed that a few ridges had formed and was bouncing on the bevel. any ideas on what causes that to happen?


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## gwilki (May 14, 2014)

If you are bouncing off the bevel, your angle of attack is wrong and/or your tool is dull. You should not be "riding the bevel", as the expression goes. You should be gliding the bevel. The bevel is there to support the cutting edge and to direct the direction of the cut. You should change the angle of tool presentation so that the bevel is not pushing into the surface of the wood, but is just gliding over it. If you have to push to make the cut, your tool is dull. Even though wet wood is generally easier on a edge than dry wood, it still dulls tools. Sharpen often.


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## cdaniels (Apr 16, 2014)

I just wanted to clear up that the tool in the picture is a BB not a thompson. A fellow LJer actually called doug directly after seeing my post and doug told him to have me call him directly and he will send me a new tool because the one in the picture was chipped. That speaks to the level of customer service with Doug Thompson's company!

Mr. Wilkinson, some really good explanations there thank you for that it actually helps me out quite a bit. One of the difficulties I have which i'm sure a lot of ameteurs do is figuring out exactly when to sharpen the tools. I am afraid to grind through all my expensive fancy tools too fast so I probably don't sharpen enough!


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Jimmy,
I tried to log on but couldn't. Have that man call me at 440-241-6360. He has a chip on that tool and I have to replace it. The Bill Grumbine video on basic bowls is a good place to learn.
Thank you,
Doug

The above is an email reprinted with Dougs' permission.

Excellent customer service from Doug Thompson.

No hurries no worries, just ride that bevel.


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## gwilki (May 14, 2014)

Doug is the greatest. I'm not surprised at all about his offer.

I can sympathize with not wanting to grind away all that find metal, but if you use a jig to sharpen, you are taking off likely less than .001 of an inch each time. You'll find your turning is much more fun with sharp tools.


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