# Thickness Drum Sander



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

*Design and Planning*

I have been part of LJ's for 39 days and I have learned a lot from the community. I have been a casual woodworker with no official training for about 7 years. I did my apprenticeship as a Tool & Die Maker but never followed that either, I worked in a Toolshop for a while but did mostly CNC programming and a bit of tool design. Currently I'm a network administrator for a medium sized business but the woodworking bug is biting me more and more because I do have a passion for it but I would also like to make some extra cash.

I have seen many guys here make their own machines and jigs and fixtures and because I do not have the cash to buy all the bigger machines I started to look at all the machines being custom build here in the community. One that I really would like is a drum sander. the reason for that is that I have access to lots of lumber that can be recycled or upcycled, only problem is that they aren't flat and they do need sanding to cleanup anyway. And that is why I have done quite a bit of research about them in the community. The one I like most is the one that Blake built (Here). The only thing I don't like about it is the lifting mechanism, it looks a bit shaky. I have bigger lumber that I want to sand as well so I was looking for a bit more of a sturdy design. That I found in a design from Stumpy Nubs, the video is located (Here).

With those 2 ideas I started my design, keeping in mind the size of lumber I would like to push trough it and which parts I can obtain easily and cheap. My main objective was for accuracy and that it must last, it is not a short term solution. Why make something to later buy one, mine must last just as long as any shop bought one. Plus the spares must always be available. Fortunately I have access to an excellent 3D cad program and I have worked on it before, I managed to get into the swing of it quickly.

Here is my first idea of what I would like to achieve.










And without the covers.










This is it for now, will add more pics and explain how it all comes together.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I have been part of LJ's for 39 days and I have learned a lot from the community. I have been a casual woodworker with no official training for about 7 years. I did my apprenticeship as a Tool & Die Maker but never followed that either, I worked in a Toolshop for a while but did mostly CNC programming and a bit of tool design. Currently I'm a network administrator for a medium sized business but the woodworking bug is biting me more and more because I do have a passion for it but I would also like to make some extra cash.
> 
> ...


this looks like it'll be a beast!

so far so good, but from your drawing I can't tell how you are going to supply the tension on the driving (link?) belt - will there be a hinged platform on the motor to rest on and let gravity do the work? is there a tensioning screw somewhere to push motor away from spindle to generate tension?


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I have been part of LJ's for 39 days and I have learned a lot from the community. I have been a casual woodworker with no official training for about 7 years. I did my apprenticeship as a Tool & Die Maker but never followed that either, I worked in a Toolshop for a while but did mostly CNC programming and a bit of tool design. Currently I'm a network administrator for a medium sized business but the woodworking bug is biting me more and more because I do have a passion for it but I would also like to make some extra cash.
> 
> ...


to add more context - a drum sander will not get your stock-to-be-recycled flat. you would need a jointer for that. a drum sander is great as a finishing tool - not so great as a rougher milling tool.


----------



## thebigvise (Jun 17, 2010)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I have been part of LJ's for 39 days and I have learned a lot from the community. I have been a casual woodworker with no official training for about 7 years. I did my apprenticeship as a Tool & Die Maker but never followed that either, I worked in a Toolshop for a while but did mostly CNC programming and a bit of tool design. Currently I'm a network administrator for a medium sized business but the woodworking bug is biting me more and more because I do have a passion for it but I would also like to make some extra cash.
> 
> ...


I love shop-made things and I do it quite a bit, but a drum sander is tough. I can say that my General 25" double drum sander was a life-changer for me. I had to step up big with $2000, but it is a joy to use. As for thicknessing, it's a great tool, but patience is needed with no more than 1/8 turn per pass.


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I have been part of LJ's for 39 days and I have learned a lot from the community. I have been a casual woodworker with no official training for about 7 years. I did my apprenticeship as a Tool & Die Maker but never followed that either, I worked in a Toolshop for a while but did mostly CNC programming and a bit of tool design. Currently I'm a network administrator for a medium sized business but the woodworking bug is biting me more and more because I do have a passion for it but I would also like to make some extra cash.
> 
> ...


The wood that I can get my hands on is old crate planks which is fairly flat, I will probably need to cleanup 1 to 2 mm per side so the sander should do the trick plus like u say PurpLev it is great for finishing. I have a friend with a thickness planer\jointer that I send the rough stuff to.

Right behind the post that sits in the middle of the pic their is a tensioner bolt that will screw into the bottom base plate, the motor is like u said mounted on its own hinged base.

Thanks for the advice, that is the reason that I decided to start blogging about it now already. LJ community is full of very clever and helpful people and people with much more experience than what I have. In return I want to share my experience to them again.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I have been part of LJ's for 39 days and I have learned a lot from the community. I have been a casual woodworker with no official training for about 7 years. I did my apprenticeship as a Tool & Die Maker but never followed that either, I worked in a Toolshop for a while but did mostly CNC programming and a bit of tool design. Currently I'm a network administrator for a medium sized business but the woodworking bug is biting me more and more because I do have a passion for it but I would also like to make some extra cash.
> 
> ...


I have a 25"double drum sander and and a shop made one. Love them both. 
My only suggestion would be to make two dust collection spots rather than just one. Dust removal is critical in sanders and the better you can do it the less trouble you will have.


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I have been part of LJ's for 39 days and I have learned a lot from the community. I have been a casual woodworker with no official training for about 7 years. I did my apprenticeship as a Tool & Die Maker but never followed that either, I worked in a Toolshop for a while but did mostly CNC programming and a bit of tool design. Currently I'm a network administrator for a medium sized business but the woodworking bug is biting me more and more because I do have a passion for it but I would also like to make some extra cash.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the advice shipwright, I will definitely have to to that then seeing that I am making my drum to sand 450mm wide. (18 inches). Diameter wil be 110mm. (4.3 inches).

PS. Like your quote at the bottom of your post.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I have been part of LJ's for 39 days and I have learned a lot from the community. I have been a casual woodworker with no official training for about 7 years. I did my apprenticeship as a Tool & Die Maker but never followed that either, I worked in a Toolshop for a while but did mostly CNC programming and a bit of tool design. Currently I'm a network administrator for a medium sized business but the woodworking bug is biting me more and more because I do have a passion for it but I would also like to make some extra cash.
> 
> ...


You can make a very efficient, drum hugging dust shroud from ABS pipe. Have a look at my home made sander. It's not what you want but the dust shroud is worth a look. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/57158


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I have been part of LJ's for 39 days and I have learned a lot from the community. I have been a casual woodworker with no official training for about 7 years. I did my apprenticeship as a Tool & Die Maker but never followed that either, I worked in a Toolshop for a while but did mostly CNC programming and a bit of tool design. Currently I'm a network administrator for a medium sized business but the woodworking bug is biting me more and more because I do have a passion for it but I would also like to make some extra cash.
> 
> ...


If I had a ShopSmith Shipright your drumsander would have being on to of my list for inspiration, I really like what you did with what you had. One thing I firmly believe in is to use everything in live at least twice. Once for its original purpose and at least once for some other creative thinking purpose. (Recycle/Upcycle) 
And with your way you safe one space, which in my small garage would be a plus. I don't know were this monster machine is gonna fit in my garage but I WILL make space for it. 
Thanks again for the advise.


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

*Design and Planning*

I think one of the important things about a drumsander is stability, meaning as little vibration as possible in all aspects of the machine. It is a finishing tool after all, and that is why I'm spending a lot of time in designing this machine to ensure minimum unnecessary vibration an movement while the machine is working. I have only seen 3 drumsander so far and they were all rigid, solid machines.

But enough of that, the frame for my sander is made up from 2" square tubing as well as some 2" angle iron. It will be mounted on a wooden base plate with some bolts.










This is framework v1, v2 looks a bit different due to changes in the table lifting mechanism but I will cover that at a later stage.

I'm using a 1" shaft with 2 pillarblock bearings that is mounted a bit more to the infeed side so that the table on the outfeed side is a bit longer to support longer jobs better.










The motor baseplate will be mounted on a hinge on the backside frame and will adjust the V-belt tension with a bolt frame the main baseplate.



















Okay that is what I have time for today, will continue tomorrow.

Thanks for watching and the advice, I appreciate all criticism and advice.


----------



## Bogeyguy (Sep 26, 2012)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I think one of the important things about a drumsander is stability, meaning as little vibration as possible in all aspects of the machine. It is a finishing tool after all, and that is why I'm spending a lot of time in designing this machine to ensure minimum unnecessary vibration an movement while the machine is working. I have only seen 3 drumsander so far and they were all rigid, solid machines.
> 
> ...


A nice concept plan Vip. Just remember to use it as a sander. Lots of folks think these drum sanders are a cheap substitute for a planer. Not so.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I think one of the important things about a drumsander is stability, meaning as little vibration as possible in all aspects of the machine. It is a finishing tool after all, and that is why I'm spending a lot of time in designing this machine to ensure minimum unnecessary vibration an movement while the machine is working. I have only seen 3 drumsander so far and they were all rigid, solid machines.
> 
> ...


Looking good.
But just a thought, I don't see vibration as a problem at all. I see flex and adjustment as the problems. Make sure that the platform below the drum is strong and quickly adjustable.

This will be fun to watch.
Steve


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I think one of the important things about a drumsander is stability, meaning as little vibration as possible in all aspects of the machine. It is a finishing tool after all, and that is why I'm spending a lot of time in designing this machine to ensure minimum unnecessary vibration an movement while the machine is working. I have only seen 3 drumsander so far and they were all rigid, solid machines.
> 
> ...


Bogeyguy: I have already seen the difference between sanding and planing, the couch in my projects tought me that lesson. It was really dirty pine that I wanted to clean up and I used about 5×40 grit belts on my belt sander with only a 4" x 8" area clean when I realized that I was fighting a losing battle. I sent them to a friend of mine with a planer and he cleaned them up for me without any hassles. So trust me, lesson learned. Thanks for the advise. 

Steve: Keep watching, I would like your comment on the table adjustment system. You seem to know something I don't.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I think one of the important things about a drumsander is stability, meaning as little vibration as possible in all aspects of the machine. It is a finishing tool after all, and that is why I'm spending a lot of time in designing this machine to ensure minimum unnecessary vibration an movement while the machine is working. I have only seen 3 drumsander so far and they were all rigid, solid machines.
> 
> ...


I agree with Steve about the adjustments. Make sure the table adjustment stabilizes the entire width of the table and on the pivot end of the table, provide some method of adjustment to keep the table surface parallel with the drum.


----------



## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I think one of the important things about a drumsander is stability, meaning as little vibration as possible in all aspects of the machine. It is a finishing tool after all, and that is why I'm spending a lot of time in designing this machine to ensure minimum unnecessary vibration an movement while the machine is working. I have only seen 3 drumsander so far and they were all rigid, solid machines.
> 
> ...


If you're planning to hand feed you'll find it tedious - 
extremely tedious.

Some people have cannibalized treadmills for the
variable speed conveyer mechanicals.

I have a Woodmaster with planer type rubber 
feed rollers on top. For longer parts this works
better than the conveyer on my Performax drum
sander, which is a pita but great for small and
thin parts.

Get at least a 2hp motor. 3-5 hp is better.

Considering the tedium of hand-feeding or inventing
a feedworks for a drum sander, building a stroke 
sander might be a better investment of your time
and engineering skills.


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Design and Planning*
> 
> I think one of the important things about a drumsander is stability, meaning as little vibration as possible in all aspects of the machine. It is a finishing tool after all, and that is why I'm spending a lot of time in designing this machine to ensure minimum unnecessary vibration an movement while the machine is working. I have only seen 3 drumsander so far and they were all rigid, solid machines.
> 
> ...


Thanks Lew, in part 3 I will discuss the tables. Please have a look and comment or criticize.

Thanks Loren, initial planning so far is for handfeed, that is because of my lifting system. I'm still working on a different lifting system that is stable and the possibility of a feed system. I do have a small 12v motor with power supply that is perfect for that application. I did not know what a stroke sander is but after googling it I now know, not really what I'm looking for.


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

*Tables and Lifting Mechanism*

Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.

One very important fact that I would like to make clear is that the total travel (up and down) of the tables in both design will be 1/2" You will see that there is a vertical row of holes on the 4 legs, they are for 1" increment size changes with a maximum workpiece thickness of 4 3/8". All that is need is to loosen 4 bolts. So I will be able to finish sand small boxes or other thicker jobs as well.

Design 1.

This works on a back hinge system.










This is the lifting table, it wil be secured to the frame using 4 bolts. The black knob at the front is attached to threaded rod and is for fine adjustment of the top table.










This is the top table and it will be secured to the frame with 2 bolts towards the back for a hinge effect. The front will rest on the lifting mechanism of the bottom table. Both sliding areas of the tables will be 3/4" plywood lined with 1/4" hardboard for smoothness.



















Okay, that is it for design 1.

Design 2.

The biggest factor for design 2 was that I want the table to lift back and front together, I'm not very fond of the hinge type lifting. Not to sure why I feel this way, just like the table to stay horizontal.

I kept the main design for the lifting mechanism, just doubled it up.























































The last pic is just to show the maximum intend height that I intend to lift the table. The rest of the setting will be done as explained at the top. 1" increment drops with the holes on the frame.

You will see that I have added 4 blocks to the top table, that had to happen otherwise the top table would be floating around on the 2 lifting parts which obviously is not a good idea. The 4 blocks will house 2 bearings each, one at the top and one the bottom. That is also why the frame changed, there will be 4 guide rods for the bearings so that the table can't float. The only drawback to this for me is that I still cannot look at changing my table to a belt feed system. I'm working on that, "Design 3". No success yet on that one.

Thanks for watching and the advice, I appreciate all criticism and advice.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


Interesting. I don't believe I have seen that four post method before. Kind of cool, if you can align those four posts.

A couple of thoughts (because thoughts are free)

Replace the knob with a crank.

Consider building the top platform as a torsion box. A simple piece of covered ply has a lot of play and twist in it. You certainly have the vertical height for a two inch tall box. Half inch MDF skins and an internal web of MDF all glued up. And cover it with Formica - it is slippery and adds a lot of strength. Making it out of Baltic Birch ply would keep weight down but costs go up.

It seems like you counting on the rods to keep the top level as it is raised and lowered. You can make the vertical bearings longer by going down farther on the leg. The longer they are, the more support they will give. Are you planning on using real linear bearings? These could be a bugger to align the first time. You want to be able to raise or lower the table by just a smidgen and have all four corners stay in sync. The lifter could have a roller in the center.

But then again, these are just initial thoughts,
Steve


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the thoughts SPalm, much appreciated. Helps my me to look at the whole thing differently, which is a good thing. I am by no means a pro. Setting up is going to be an issue but I'm sure with patience I will get it right.

Regarding the bearings, I do intend to use real linear bearings. The rods is silversteel rods used in tool & die making. Setting up is going to be an issue but I'm sure with patience I will get it right. The roller idea on the lifters is a good one, it will make the movement a bit smoother.

As for the table, that also sounds good. I do want it to last long so I should do it properly to. I made a quick pic just to make sure I understand what you are saying.



















The top pic, is this the type of sandwich you mean I should make?
1/2" MDF sheet
1/2' MDF Torsion Box that is 1" high
1/2" MDF sheet
So in total it will be 2" high? 
Do I add a frame of some other wood, the reason I ask this is that I think I need about an inch box at the bottom for the lifters to work in. Don't know if that is a must.

Thanks again for your input.


----------



## SPalm (Oct 9, 2007)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


Yes, something like that. What ever works for your use. The sides can also be the frame. Just think about a hollow core door and how light and strong it is - the skins can be thinner, but the webbing must be glued strong to both sides. A hardwood frame would be nice.

MDF can be very heavy, but it is know to be a flat surface. Big Box plywood is known to be shaped like a potato chip. Quality ply from a wood store would be the best, but as mentioned, it is expensive.

Glad to hear you are using bearings, else you would have to go through an alignment every time you change the height of the lifter table.

Just thinking about it, those lifters if spun around and put together would be a scissor jack. Don't know what that has to do with anything, but I just thought it was interesting. 

Later,
Steve


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


Funny that you should mention scissor jack, at one stage I was contemplating using a scissor jack screw for lifting the head unit but quickly realised that it would not work because of the V-belt. I still thinking of other ways to change the height in a different way so that I could put a roller feed system on.

Thanks

Marius


----------



## TTalma (Jan 12, 2011)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


If you want to use a feed conveyor why not just raise the head up and down. If you plan to use a belt feed for the motor just put the motor on a hinge and it will swing up and down as the drum moves.

You could raise the drum with 4 pieces of threaded rod and bicycle chain, basically how a lot of large planer works.

Also if you are planning on spending the money on linear bearings, 4 of them the size you would need for the table would cost about the same as a purchasing a drum sander.


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


That's the thing, I already have the bearings. It was supposed to be for a project a friend was doing and he could not use them like he thought he could and they have been lying in he's storeroom for who knows how long. So when I saw them the other day I inherited them from him. That is why I changed my design. Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


The scissors lift worked pretty good on the sander I made. I opted to have one end of the table hinged and the scissor "jack" lift the other end. I tried to keep things as simple as possible so that calibration- table staying parallel to the drum- was not an overwhelming process.









Later, I added a "handle" to the knob to make turning it easier.


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


I have seen a couple of those chain raisers here on LJ's but I have just not been drawn to it, maybe I should have a second look at it.


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


Wow Lew, that is awesome looking scissor lift. Looks real solid and deadly acurate! Thanks for showing!


----------



## hutomthe (Jun 21, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


Hello 
Thanks for this information Regarding it.I was wondering how it is work. I have it but didnt know how it is work.
Thanks for sharing this.

Goederenlift
Stapelaars


----------



## Okiewoodturner (Aug 5, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


Hello everyone, 
A new member herre, joined because I read alot of the post on the shopmade drumsanders. I have to say I have made two drum sanders to date. Both were built using a lathe. First one on a Delta 46-460 it worked great. Able to get nice flat rings for my segmented bowls and consistent thickness on thin strips of wood. I sold the lathe and needed another drum sander. Having a 10Er shopsmith sitting in the corner so this became my platform for the 2nd project. While it works ok not as happy as I could be. Most of my frustration admittedly most the issues were of my own making. I wanted a large table to sand longer and larger pieces of straight lumber. I have a jointer and planer so my goal was not to use the sander as a thickness planer. Wanted to be able to again sand long thin strips of wood. My issues were rounded edges on my rings, table twisting with one lift screw. Bought the materials to build the scissor lift in this post. 
However always ready for a new challenge wanted to build a DS with electric lift and more importantly an automatic feed. Posted a wanted free treadmill or really cheap on Craigslist. Seems to be lots of people needing their room back. Anyway picked a treadmill up this evening and if the wife doesn't claim it, will be the base of my next project. 
Having read opinions on issues using a treadmill have decided to forge ahead. So after being longwinded my question is: is there any reason to shorten the treadmill bed. After looking it over the thought entered the mass in my head and posed this question. Thinking I can build the stand, drum using a one HP or larger motor to drive the drum. Realize there are probably challenges I haven't condsidered. Would appreciate any and all thoughts, suggestions, be they postive or negative. 
Gotta say I enjoy the site and information concerning alot of subjects. 
Steve


----------



## Okiewoodturner (Aug 5, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


Lew did you hard attach the scissor lift to the bed? I am assuming the what appears to be a spring is to assist in lowering the table. How much lift does this give you? 
Thanks for and info. 
Steve


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


I like design #1 but just to throw another idea in the mix, have you seen the sliding wedges in the Shopnotes drum sander?
http://www.shopnotes.com/plans/thickness-sander/


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


It's definitely a better idea than the single threaded bar in the center like a couple of others I have seen. I still don't like the idea of supporting only in the middle of the table. 
I have been thinking a lot about my plans and it seems like I gonna stick with plan 1. It feels to me like I want to over engineer to much in plan 2 and also 3 that I have not posted. 
Sometimes keeping it simple is the best!


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Tables and Lifting Mechanism*
> 
> Now for the interesting stuff. I'm not going into detail on the first table design because I feel that the second table design will be more stable. Again I am open to all criticism and advice, that is the only way we learn in life.
> 
> ...


The downside is multiple points of contact requires more precision but you've thought this out well and I doubt that will be a problem.


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

*Drum Assembly*

Today it time for the drum assembly. I did not go for the Velcro method for 2 reasons, to get hold of the velcro and the sandpaper where I stay is expensive and scarce. I have read from a couple of guys using it with the handfeed method that as soon as you stop moving that you get a bit of a deeper cut on that spot. I will be using normal rolls of sandpaper rolled around my drum. What I did was designing my head unit to allow me to remove two plugs that hold the sandpaper in place to allow me to change my sandpaper. I will have to cut the paper for the sides everytime though, I'm sure I can make some sort of fixture to simplify that process.



















Total lentgh of the drum is 460mm (18") and the diameter is 110mm (4 3/8"). Effective sanding area will be 4". The shaft is a 1" keyed one.










Plugs just pull to sides to replace paper. Once paper is in place push plug back in position and tighten grub screw.










The paper will hook into a slot in the drum and fold back a bit.










Complete head assembly with 2 dust collection ports as suggested by Paul M (shipwright)

Oops, thanks Lew. I completely forgot to say what the drum is made up of. The drum is a Class 12 (8mm wall thickness) PVC water pipe that is filled with 3/4" MDF disks clued together inside the drum.










As always, please advise, criticize or help as you see fit. Thanks for viewing.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Drum Assembly*
> 
> Today it time for the drum assembly. I did not go for the Velcro method for 2 reasons, to get hold of the velcro and the sandpaper where I stay is expensive and scarce. I have read from a couple of guys using it with the handfeed method that as soon as you stop moving that you get a bit of a deeper cut on that spot. I will be using normal rolls of sandpaper rolled around my drum. What I did was designing my head unit to allow me to remove two plugs that hold the sandpaper in place to allow me to change my sandpaper. I will have to cut the paper for the sides everytime though, I'm sure I can make some sort of fixture to simplify that process.
> 
> ...


Pretty neat idea for fixing the ends of the paper. 
After some use, you get pretty good at a constant hand feed rate so the Velcro system doesn't present too much of a problem. I have read that the Velcro paper tends to burn less- compared to other methods of fastening- but I have no experience with anything but Velcro.
Here's a link to the place I get mine. Very reasonable pricing- http://www.supergrit.com/.

How did you construct the drum?


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Drum Assembly*
> 
> Today it time for the drum assembly. I did not go for the Velcro method for 2 reasons, to get hold of the velcro and the sandpaper where I stay is expensive and scarce. I have read from a couple of guys using it with the handfeed method that as soon as you stop moving that you get a bit of a deeper cut on that spot. I will be using normal rolls of sandpaper rolled around my drum. What I did was designing my head unit to allow me to remove two plugs that hold the sandpaper in place to allow me to change my sandpaper. I will have to cut the paper for the sides everytime though, I'm sure I can make some sort of fixture to simplify that process.
> 
> ...


Thanks Lew, added drum construction above.


----------



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Drum Assembly*
> 
> Today it time for the drum assembly. I did not go for the Velcro method for 2 reasons, to get hold of the velcro and the sandpaper where I stay is expensive and scarce. I have read from a couple of guys using it with the handfeed method that as soon as you stop moving that you get a bit of a deeper cut on that spot. I will be using normal rolls of sandpaper rolled around my drum. What I did was designing my head unit to allow me to remove two plugs that hold the sandpaper in place to allow me to change my sandpaper. I will have to cut the paper for the sides everytime though, I'm sure I can make some sort of fixture to simplify that process.
> 
> ...


I have seen a template online for trimming tapered ends in normal roll sandpaper but I don't have it bookmarked, might be able to google it.


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Drum Assembly*
> 
> Today it time for the drum assembly. I did not go for the Velcro method for 2 reasons, to get hold of the velcro and the sandpaper where I stay is expensive and scarce. I have read from a couple of guys using it with the handfeed method that as soon as you stop moving that you get a bit of a deeper cut on that spot. I will be using normal rolls of sandpaper rolled around my drum. What I did was designing my head unit to allow me to remove two plugs that hold the sandpaper in place to allow me to change my sandpaper. I will have to cut the paper for the sides everytime though, I'm sure I can make some sort of fixture to simplify that process.
> 
> ...


Thanks Rick, I will definitely Google it. As I always say Google is my best friend for any info.


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Drum Assembly*
> 
> Today it time for the drum assembly. I did not go for the Velcro method for 2 reasons, to get hold of the velcro and the sandpaper where I stay is expensive and scarce. I have read from a couple of guys using it with the handfeed method that as soon as you stop moving that you get a bit of a deeper cut on that spot. I will be using normal rolls of sandpaper rolled around my drum. What I did was designing my head unit to allow me to remove two plugs that hold the sandpaper in place to allow me to change my sandpaper. I will have to cut the paper for the sides everytime though, I'm sure I can make some sort of fixture to simplify that process.
> 
> ...


what i have seen for the paper
is make a template from thin ply 
same width as the sandpaper
and lay the old one on it (one that is right)
and cut the template to the right angle and length

then you can use the template to cut all the paper you like
ready for any grit changes if you do that


----------



## Vip3r74 (Jun 12, 2013)

Vip3r74 said:


> *Drum Assembly*
> 
> Today it time for the drum assembly. I did not go for the Velcro method for 2 reasons, to get hold of the velcro and the sandpaper where I stay is expensive and scarce. I have read from a couple of guys using it with the handfeed method that as soon as you stop moving that you get a bit of a deeper cut on that spot. I will be using normal rolls of sandpaper rolled around my drum. What I did was designing my head unit to allow me to remove two plugs that hold the sandpaper in place to allow me to change my sandpaper. I will have to cut the paper for the sides everytime though, I'm sure I can make some sort of fixture to simplify that process.
> 
> ...


Thanks Patron, I will definitely keep that in mind. I was think about a little block with just the angle but your idea makes more sense because then my length will be right as well.


----------

