# old craftsman radial arm saw 1950`s or 60`s?



## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

I picked this old ras for a song and wanted to see if anyone could tell me about how old it might be, i am also looking for any ideas or suggestions on replacing the surface top and making some type of fence/backplate

I am pretty new to woodworking

Also looking for a manual

Thanks in advance


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## sprucegum (Dec 6, 2012)

Do a Google search for craftsman radial arm saw recall. If your saw is in the correct serial # range you can get a nice upgrade kit for the guard and a complete new table free. As for the age my dad had one that looked just like yours back in the late 60's and I think he bought it used.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Look for the id plate. If it's still on the saw you can do a Google search and date the saw with that. The plate is probably on the frame under the table and not on the motor


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I doubt that this model was invloved in the recall. Too old?
First three numbers of the model denote the mfgr. by the way.
Bill


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

That particular was made through the late 60's, if I recall.My FIL bought one new around '68. The recall for that one is $100 for the motor, they (Emerson) didn't offer the guard/table option for the older ones.


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## donbee (Feb 7, 2009)

Having owned three different Craftsman RA saws in the past, I would have to say that in all likelihood the carrier bearings that transport the motor along the radial arm are in need of replacement. You can't have much accuracy with the saw if those rollers are shot.
Follow this link to see if this is a match to your saw:
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=4184 (oops, I see that this link was given, above)
if that's it, this link will give you a manual in PDF format you can save and/or print.
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0706366.pdf

Don


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

First Three numbers are 113 i think I will double check it when i get home today..

I found the recall but i think this one is way before that


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Thanks Don, it Moves along the track pretty Smoothly the groove it travels on had a little bit of surface rust but i've been cleaning it up..


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## gmc (Jun 30, 2012)

Actually I have the same exact one. I have owned two of these and the recall covered both of them. I have rebuilt three homes using these two RAS and the worked great. I decided to take the recall for both of them, the $200 will go towards a new table saw which i desperately need. If you decide to keep it, make sure you get the manual and get it set up correctly. They are a great cross cut saw, but IMHO they are a dangerous rip saw. I made my own door frames using these without getting hurt, but i was very careful and used all safety precautions (as you should always do). The link above should get you the manual. Enjoy, it is a great saw.


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## sprucegum (Dec 6, 2012)

While we are talking about old craftsman RAS I have a similar saw that is quite a bit newer and of course I can get $100 bucks for it on the recall which is $5 mare than I have invested. Since I use it mostly for cross cutting it seems like it would be much safer and more convenient with a squeeze type trigger switch on the handle just like a skill saw. Has anyone rigged theirs this way? Does anyone know of a retrofit type kit to do this? They are handy old saws but arguably one of the most dangerous tools in the shop ( hence the recall).


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## Harryn (Apr 25, 2011)

I bought this model in 1964 and have used it ever since. It is a great saw. As far as dangerous, any tool can be
dangerous. The main problem is that people use the wrong type of blade for it. The blade should have a zero or negative rake tooth or hook. By this I mean if you draw a line from the center of the hole to the tip of the tooth, the tooth should lean backward for a negative rake or should be straight. If it leans forward as blades for table saws usually do it can cause the saw to be pulled forward toward you. This is what scares users, and claim the saw is too dangerous. Use a blade that is designed for radial arm saws . A new table can be made by gluing two pieces of 1/2" Particle board together to make it 1" thick.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Well I have $50 bucks in it and it appears Craftsman only requires you to send in the Motor Assembly and Blade Housing. So i may just send it back and put that money into a table saw then reuse the old RAS Table and stand for something else.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Well i called the hotline to try and get the $100 so I got that process started.
and right after that I found a Craftsman Series 100 (113.2993) Cabinet Table Saw so i went and picked that up, put a new 60t dewalt blade on it and started cleaning it up..


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I had one back in 1959. I think it was a 12". It was a pain to keep the arm set @90°, but once set, it worked great. I even used it to rip sheets of plywood and do bevel cuts. Some people are afraid of RAS's. They require you to be extra cautious, especially when ripping. Use the correct blade, one with a negative rake. It will reduce the tendency for the blade to "self-feed". For a new table and fence, just copy the dimensions of the old one. MDF, 3/4" thick is best for the table and a piece of 3/4×1-1/2 Poplar for the fence. Set the fence so it is about 1" in front of the blade with the blade all the way back.


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## sprucegum (Dec 6, 2012)

A wise decision indeed. That old RAS was not the best tool to learn on. I am still using mine but I treat it with a lot of respect. The table you have left should be good for something, I wonder if the crank up and down parts could somehow be used to raise and lower a router in a router table?


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## IrreverentJack (Aug 13, 2010)

Good decision is right. If the table saw is the belt driven contractor saw it will probably be worth your time. I had a William Tell experience when my father was trying to mill molding with his RAS years ago. Never liked them. -Jack


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## iamwelty (Nov 14, 2009)

I inherited what I think was the same saw. After several years of hardly using it- I tried selling it at a back yard sale for $75… then marked it down to $50… $25…. Free… Free and I'd deliver it…. No takers so I took it home. Later I used it big time siding my house- and putting up soffits… then I found out about the recall and got $100 plus I sold the left over scrap metal.

I usually don't do so well…


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Yes the Table Saw i picked up is the Old Craftsman Series 100 with the Belt Drive motor, it purrs like a kitten.
and with the 60t dewalt blade I ripped a 1×4"x6' of white oak like it was butter. I am very happy with it so far..

Yea i have a few ideas on what to do with the old bench that the RAS is on, I was thinking about using it for my drill press and building in some shelves or mounts for my drill bits etc. And make it mobile.

Just trying to decide now on what Jig/Sled i will try to build first… I'm leaning towards a tenoning jig of some type

Thank you guys for all the info and support!..


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

one humble suggestion would be to keep that 60T blade for crosscutting. 60T is an awful lot of toothage for ripping. a 40T combo blade or 24-32T ripping blade would provide for safer and easier ripping when you get to something beefier than 1X hardwoods.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

I was told this was a 60T combo blade. I'm not sure what that means lol 
But it has worked well so far on all the cuts i've made.

I will look into the 40T Combo next time I purchase a blade.

Most of my cuts will be Crosscuts, Tenon cuts and some plywood

Thanks for the Info!.


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## cosmicturner (Feb 7, 2009)

I have had and I must say there are only a couple of tools I fear and this is one of them…ripping is dangerous, cross cutting is dangerous you are pulling a spinning blade towards you, then the very instant you contact the wood you have to push now instead of pulling to resist it wanting to CLIMB the wood The Miter Saw Corrected the design error. please be careful a friend of mine left his running he was fiddling with the project using the table a little chip of wood vibrated to the blade it caught and propelled the saw forward into my friends hands…he lost part of his hand…sorry to share this but be careful all you guys that use the radial arm saw…..I know I sound like a grandma


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## amite (May 7, 2012)

I was recently given one from 1969 (that's the date in the manual). Differences between yours and mine are a quick-release handle for the big knob on the front of the arm, and two pushbuttons for on and off instead of your switch. Interestingly, on mine, green is off and red is on!


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

@amite… sounds like somebody had your switch apart and put 2 of the wires back wrong. If someone was ever in your shop with you and an emergency happened, they'd likely be pounding on the red button wondering why that damn saw wont turn off. It's Probably an easy fix.


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## amite (May 7, 2012)

Found this on that auction site-looks like yours?


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## Everett1 (Jun 18, 2011)

I just got one for free from a friend, i think mine is late 60's (looks just like the one in this thread, excepth the plastic of the sliding part is black)

I think we should dress like the guy like on the front of that book in amite's post.


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## jordanp (Feb 1, 2013)

Yea amite thats the beast. Never seen anyone that happy about using a ras before lol


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