# DeWalt - One Great 20" Scroll Saw



## Paul_D

I completely agree Gary. I've had this saw for a good number of years and it runs as smoothly today as it ever did. I've done A LOT of scrolling over the years so I can attest to it being a very durable machine as well. It is a bit heavy but that makes a big difference in the lack of vibration.


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## grovemadman

Thanks Gary, great review and for sure a great saw for the price. The Hawk scrollsaw is hands down the best in the industry, but they start at a grand for the Hawk 20" and $1500 for the hawk 26". Next time the trade show rolls by your area try it out and you'll see what I mean. I tried the Dewalt and it is by far better than many others out there - you made a good purchase!!! I liked it better than the Delta. Ridgid makes a pretty good one too and the price is nice.


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## Grumpy

Looks like a good machine Gary. I find the blower tube, laser light and operating light on mine very handy inclusions.


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## teenagewoodworker

i agree too
i was at a farmers fair last summer and some one was doing work cutting letters into pieces of a log and i asked him how he liked it. he said that he loved it and couldn't ask for anything much better for the money. also he said that it stands up to a lot of work as for the whole week of the fair all he did was use the scroll saw almost constantly all day long.


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## CharlieM1958

Thanks for the great review, Gary. A scroll saw is on my wish list, and it looks like you've done the research for me.


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## ffej

I've got one too.

The table isn't exactly perpendicular to the blade and there's not any adjustment for it (that I can find). I also noticed the cast iron table isn't very smooth. O I know I sound picky, but for the price (~500 for saw, stand, and light), I was a little disappointed.

There are some good things though, the dust blower works great and the controls are well designed. It's heavy duty, powerful, and there's no vibration.

-just my 2 cents


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## Paul_D

Jeff, I use Johnson's paste wax on my Dewalt table and it is super smooth. Give that a try and see if it makes a difference for you.


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## cowboy

That's a great saw,the hawk and the RBI have great reps also but they cost a lot more and neither is nearly as easy to change blades.not even close.I'm quiet certain with the amount of skill you show in your projects there will be great things coming from that saw from you

Cowboy


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## sIKE

I have seen this puppy each time I am at my local woodcraft. Other than my TS all of my other shop tools are starter tools including my scroll saw (a little Delta jobber that was on sale 2 Christmas's ago for $99 at lowes) and though I have only done 2 projects with this saw I know which one I want to replace it, thanks GaryK!


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## MtnManMEP

I picked up one of these at a Dewalt blowout sale a couple of years ago and have been satisfied with it. As noted in a prior post, the table is not polished off well, but that has not caused any problems during use. Regarding table to blade alignment, there is a tilt adjustment that allows left to right adjustment. I've always been able to get table to blade setup accurate enough for my use, but then again, I mainly cut templates on thin stock. Overall, I'd recommend this tool.


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## sharad

A very nice review of the saw but a dream for me.
Sharad


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## LeeJ

Gary;

While I have a larger Hawk unit, I've heard only good thing about this saw. For the price you can't beat it.

I would have bought this if it had a deeper throat, as some of the inlays I do the extra six inches makes a big difference.

Great review.

Lee


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## Billp

Gary I just bought one yesterday, I think Iam going to like it a lot. I would have gotten the Excalabur same saw just a little bit better, but for the money when with the Dewalt.


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## GaryK

Billp - Let us know what you think after you have used it for a while.


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## Billp

Gary I have used it a little bit since I got it and it's a great saw.


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## kewald

I've been using this saw for a few years now. It compares well with the Excalibur because it was designed by the Excalibur designer, if I'm not mistaken. I'm presently making a "Peace Pole" using this saw. Each side of the 4 sided pole will have "May Peace Prevail on Earth" in English and translated into Spanish, German and Aramaic on the other sides. I'm cutting the letters out with the table tilted 3 degrees so that the letters end up protruding from the face about 1/4 inch. So, you ask, how am I doing this on boards that are 6 feet long with a 20 inch throat on the saw? By cross cutting the boards on the scroll saw using a 2/0 blade and serpentine cut. When the letters are done, I'll re-join the boards end to end and the cuts will be hard to see (I hope).


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## NSWoodspinner

Hi all.

I picked up one of these at the Moncton Woodwrking Show last Saturday (heckuva birthday present)

HOWEVER…...

Until I get the HoneyDo list down a bit, (and the workshop rebuilt- more on that later, in the appropriate spot) it stays in the box. But the initial running ionspection I did at the Show indicated to me that it is vastly superior to the 16" Delta 2-speed that served so well for 18 years. I'll post another review after the first couple of projects.


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## NSWoodspinner

OK. I have it out of the box, set up on the (included) dedicated stand, and I have run off a few simple projects.

This unit is light-years ahead of the twenty-year-old Delta 16" 2 speed I was using. All the controls are at the front (speed, tension, blade lock, On/OFF switch), making adjustments quick and easy. I had a few (actually several) private embarassing moments, reaching under the table where the ON/OFF switch should be (or was). Next to no vibration, and as for noise, it is the first power tool I had which didn't senf the warrior-husky running for cover.

The only thing I had against it was the material hold-down. After the first try at threading the blade, I dismounted the hold-down and relegatted it to the toolbox (I know, I know, safety first. But, isn't that what the left hand is for?)

This weekend - stack cutting. I'll let you know how it goes.


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## GaryK

NSWoodspinner - I forgot to mention. The first thing I did was to remove the hold down. I don't even know where it is.


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## bigike

i want one but the price is killen me, this is the best scroll saw i think anyway.


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## ShopCat

I've got one on order at the local Rockler, which has them on sale through Dec. for $450, plus they kick in a $50 gift card. I've tried repeatedly to find one at my regular supplier (Craigslist), but they never come up, at least in the Denver area.

I am just getting in to marquetry and this is an upgrade from a hand-held fretsaw, so anything would be an improvement, but all my research, including ancient reviews in FWW say this is the one (other than a Hegner or Excalibur).

One thing that concerned me about those two (other than some obvious issues with price), was the future availability of replacement parts. I would note though, that Amazon has some highly negative reviews on the quality of the Dewalts' coming from China a few years back. Having experienced repeated issues with quality on Chinese sourced equipment made me determined to find somebody local so I can haul it back if I need to.


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## highflyer

Hi all,

I just recieved one of these scroll saws as a christmas gift and hadn't gotten to use it quite yet but I am anxious to get to making scroll projects.


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## SawTooth1953

I've used a DeWalt scroll saw for about 4 years… I had the same problem as Jeff (Pflugerville) where the table had a front/back tilt that I discovered while cutting 4/4 oak stand-up puzzles… there was a bevel in there where it doesn't belong and that ruined the puzzle… (and, Mike in Idaho, the table was verified as perpendicular to the blade in the right/left direction). Other people online had similar issues with front/back table tilt, for which there is no adjustment… I fixed mine with washers under the front table mounts… people that had to lower the front (or raise the back) had to put more work into their "fix". DeWalt let each of us know that they were unaware of there being any problem… but if I wanted them to look at it, they would and they'd have it back to me in 6 weeks. I fixed it in 6 minutes after a few hours spent making the diagnosis.
The blade holders on this scroll saw are also a constant problem… they aren't able to hold onto most blades past a tension setting of just under 4 (out of 5)... or I should say, they hold on for a while then scare the bejeezus out of me as they spring loose. The lower blade holder is notorious for this. Many other people have issues with it. The design is poor. I've replaced my screws and they're no better. I stripped one blade holder block trying to tighten the darned thing so a blade might stay until I'm done with it. (Excalibur by Seyco uses what looks to be the same design screw in the blade holder, but I looked at theirs and it is made much better than the DeWalt… no 'slop' in the fit.)
These machines might run w/low vibration, however, the geometry of having the blade pivot point just a few inches behind the blade is that there is an inherent forward/backward jumping of the blade as it is going up/down. That makes it difficult to do delicate maneuvers, especially on thin wood. The action is the same as a saber saw (aka jigsaw) that has an "orbital" setting for faster but coarser cutting… the blade goes up-forward-down-backward-up etc. Also, after several years the bushings wear and the machine is no longer running free of vibration… someone told me it cost them around $200 to replace them. Other people said it is a rod that loosens and there are instructions online for taking the saw apart and fixing that… don't look at the DeWalt site, they don't acknowledge any problems.)
In its favor is that the 20" throat allows for fairly large projects, if that is what you are inclined to do. Also, the upper arm lifts to allow threading the blade from above into fret starter holes. That is easier than the typical feeding of the blade from the bottom on most other scroll saws whose upper arms do not lift. The saw table is adequate in size, but as mentioned above, it is coarse ground, not smooth. It is nice that it tilts both right and left, but that's not very special. The air blower works well. When I bought mine, the light and stand weren't included in the $450 price.
There have been no known improvements made to this machine in, like, forever. The major change is that the DeWalt/PorterCable/Black&Decker/Delta conglomerate has them made in Taiwan, where they are made more sloppily than they were before that. (Scroll Saws that indicate 'Type 2' are made in Taiwan). As much as DeWalt Scroll Saw users fawn all over this machine, it is not without its deficiencies, and improvements are not likely to be seen anytime soon… except that the conglomerate just announced their Delta line is now selling what looks like the same saw for the same price, in a different color… and they're including a light and a stand… how innovative is that? They don't give something for nothing, so my guess is they found a way to make the saw cheaper so they threw in the light and stand.
FYI, last month I got hold of a used Hegner Multimax 18-v scroll saw that retails for $1300… it makes the DeWalt look like a bargain!!! In the field of scroll saws, spending more money does NOT mean you get more features… and sometimes you take several steps backwards!!! When I get a chance, I'll post my review of that saw. And, if anybody is in the market for a scroll saw, the Fall 2010 issue of ScrollSaw Woodworking and Crafts magazine did a fairly comprehensive review of 21 scroll saws… but the deficiencies are not put into clear view, so ask users online for critical reviews.


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## vinnie

I own a Craftsman , Dremel 1800 scroll saw with the take off port and a DeWalt 788 with stand that I bought from Grizzly.com in Jan.

The DeWalt 788 saw is awesome….no more said!
Vinnie


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## Howie

Has anyone had problems with their 788 constantly blowing fuses?


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## SawTooth1953

My DeWalt never blew a fuse. I think I heard some people have had the power switch go bad (but not mine) and perhaps blowing the fuse is a sign of something wrong in the power switch area. At any rate, you want to get that fixed so the spikes that blow the fuse don't screw up the speed control.

In the past 6 months I've been able to use a Hegner 18" multispeed and an RBI 26"... both of these have blade holders that are not attached to the saw… while it can be said that technically they are tool-less blade changes, they are both pains in the a** for fretwork. I imagine they're both fine for marquetry, intarsia, silhouettes, etc, but I think I'll go re-visit my DeWalt since more than half of what I do is fretwork. (A great alternative to the DeWalt is the Excalibur… nearly the same but not the same… if I were to buy a new machine, it would be one of the Excaliburs… but that won't be anytime soon.)

Can anybody explain the use of loose blade holders and why they're found on the verrrrry expensive machines?


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## Howie

Thanks SAw. I bought the saw used and have been very happy with it(just learning scroll work) but have developed the problem with the fuses. I been checking on parts and like everything else Dewalt sells, their parts are twice the cost of others.
I'm going to replace the brushes and I'll replace the switch too and see if that helps. I have power all the way thru the circuits but when I speed the saw up it blows the fuse.


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## SawTooth1953

Hmmm… One thing the DeWalt has is a lot of moving parts and joints… I wonder if there is mechanical resistance causing a draw for more power, as in the joints need lubrication or a bearing has failed or a moving part is bent. Of course it could also be that the speed control has a bad part, too.

Check at Rick Hutcheson's site, www.scrollsaws.com and review the DeWalt tuneup advice… and perhaps contact with Rick will be helpful… he seems to be experienced with every saw out there and may be a helpful resource.

Alternatively, call the nearest service center to troubleshoot this with a DeWalt employee… on the downside, when I spoke with them several years ago their knowledge seemed to go only so far as to advise that if I sent it in, the technicians would check it out and they have a 6-week turnaround time.


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## ralbuck

Hi

Here is a link to parts on the DeWalt 
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dw788l-type-scroll-saw-parts-c-1009_2631_3820.html

I have pruchased parts from them and am very pleased!

I broke a blade holder (MY OWN Fault) I then modified my broken one and ordered a new one. This is over a year ago and I still have the new one in the bag.

The problem with the blades slipping is sometimes vertical alignment; use a thread locker and set the allen screw so the top and bottom are actually straight from each other. I also take the tiny carbide holders out and use a diamond file (HF Special tiny) to take the glaze off and re-true the edges.

I do not like everything about the 788; but it is a good saw! I would like a way to turn the blade 90 degrees like my old small Dremel had! The hold-down foot is a joke, but most are! I cut name plates from scrap Hickory flooring and that gives it a workout.

Anyone know where to get a good HOLD DOWN FOR THIS SAW!? If you do email me.


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## ralbuck

Hi Again,

Sorry forgot to mention that with arthritis the wingknobs get difficult to get tight or loose. I made a wooden block (unknown extremely hard wood-from a palllate) to fit that just clears uinder the table. I cut it to fit the wing knob and it is about 1-1/4 wide and a small rectangle- probably 1 by 1-1/2 total size. I keep it in the little box that I keep blades etc in. I also used a file and ridged it up to help the grip.

A trick I still use that was one of the suggestions in the book on the 1952 Craftsman; is to use candlewax on the blade! I used to always use it on the table also; but, now do the pastewax trick-stays better.

I still have my first scrollsaw. A 1952 Craftsman that started life as a 11" saw and now is about a 17" It does not even have a motor!-Yes I am serious; it uses a spring steel plate and an electromagnet!-Capacity is small and slow. It has been running on homemade parts from somewehere in the late 50's. My uncle had welded the spring steel arm for me after 4-5 welding shops had told me "IT CAN'T BE WELDED! IT'S SPRING STEEL!"

If anyone wants, I can get it out assemble it and take some pictures. I actully bought it in 1953,(when elecricity came to our part of rural ND) found out it was a 52 by serial # when I tried to get parts-and could not! At least not at Sears; so started making them!


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## SawTooth1953

rjR,
The real problem with the blade holder is that there is very little contact of the screw head and the blade… look at the holder you aren't using… if you remove the blade holding screw and insert a blade (or just a piece of paper) you'll see that the back edge of the blade is positioned at the center of that tiny screw head… so at most, only half of the screw head is making contact, about like this (
The screw head is independent of the screw and can pivot off-axis, making the grip even less effective than a half-screw head. That's why people resort to making a wood "over-wrench" to tighten it up to the max… everything less than the max. lets blades slip and even the max. lets blades slip after the surface is burnished smooth. And eventually the ability to tighten to the max. strips the thread in the screw housing. (At least that's how I came to need to buy new blade holders.)
As important as holding a blade is to the ability of a scroll saw to be used, I think it is a darned shame that it is such an under-engineered part of the machine. I've seen no evidence of any company putting any thought into improvements in well over a decade.


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## ralbuck

He is right about the design needing improvement! I do manage to compensate even cutting the hickory-TOUGH STUFF!

This Dewalt is actually my 4th scrollsaw. I wore out one of the cheap old Demels; then bought another (about $100) Dremel; used it about 5 years, sold it as I was moving 1500+ miles and some stuff had to go. I have had the DeWalt about 2-1/2 years and use it fairly hard! 
It is a good saw, not perfect by any means. I also did not like the factory light. I use a large spring arm desk lamp attached to my stand. I have a "daylight" bulb and can adjust it where I need it. Even low for working on lower blade chuck.

Anyone have a design they want me to try on the hickory, send it ! I will photograph/ test/ try and document the results. Blade breakage etc. The factory design does cause more blade breakage. 
For me he is local; I have never been treated more fairly anywhere either. Great guy to do business with.

*http://www.pozsgaidesigns.com/ * This link is where I get my blades to save some $.


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## kayakdude

i own 2 scroll saws halk rbi older model and i have dw 788 i like both but the halk is old and hard to fine parts . so now days i mosty use the dewalt at under 500 its been all good , the rbi halk coast 1200 and is 26'' its 6 of 1 and half doz the other but you have a good saw kd


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