# Handplanes



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*What was your first experience with handplanes?*

Mine was about 7 years ago, I still wasn't doing anything woodworking like, and we had moved to a new apartment where the bathroom door wouldn't close since it was too tall and would hit the jamb (well- actually we mounted one of those over-the-door-hanger thingies which made things that way) so, my wife suggested we get a handplane to fit the door to the (now lower) opening.

I have never worked with a handplane before , and the closest thing I've ever held in my hand was a handplane-style rasp which works much differently then a handplane.

we stopped at home depot, and picked the larger of the 2 buck-bros handplanes they had (now that I know better - it's a no.5 jack plane). we went home, got the thing out of the box, I looked at the illustrations on the included pamplet, made sure that things were in the right place as much as I could figure out how it's all supposed to go… and started working on the door …. yeah - just like that - out of the box.

yes. it was extremely hard to take off that 1/16" off the top of the door, I was working for at least an hour, and was sweating a couple of pounds off…. by the end of it - the top of the door looked like it was mauled by a stray hound. but it did close - mission accomplished.

this experience just came to mind as I fine tuned that buck-bros jack I still have last week after reading Garrett Hack's Handplanes book. in comparison to my other stanley it is a much lower grade in materials and construction, but after tuning it - it slices wood nice and easy, and produces beautiful shavings.

that door that took me an hour to maul, would have probably taken me 5 minutes today, and it would have ended up with a nice flat and clean edge….

The mild differences a bit of knowledge can do huh?


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## SteveKorz (Mar 25, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *What was your first experience with handplanes?*
> 
> Mine was about 7 years ago, I still wasn't doing anything woodworking like, and we had moved to a new apartment where the bathroom door wouldn't close since it was too tall and would hit the jamb (well- actually we mounted one of those over-the-door-hanger thingies which made things that way) so, my wife suggested we get a handplane to fit the door to the (now lower) opening.
> 
> ...


My first experience was terrible. I had some old planes that I had acquired, and I thought that I should be able to just put the sole to the wood and it was going to work. That plane and I had quite a conversation. It chattered, I groaned, it dug in, I complained. Chips jammed. Gouges. It was terrible.

Then, about three or four years ago, I took a class with Graham Blackburn about hand planes. It really opened my eyes. I went home, took the same plane apart, tuned it and cleaned it. I flattened the nose of the chip breaker. I did some sharpening and flattened the sole. I tore the frog apart, cleaned and tuned it. After some much needed attention, I put it back together again and treated it like a friend. The conversation that the plane and I had that time was much more pleasant, and all it said was, "Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhpppppp" when it cut a half of a thousandth of a curl off the top of that wood…...

Ah yes, the benefit of just a little knowledge.

Steve.


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## Cantputjamontoast (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *What was your first experience with handplanes?*
> 
> Mine was about 7 years ago, I still wasn't doing anything woodworking like, and we had moved to a new apartment where the bathroom door wouldn't close since it was too tall and would hit the jamb (well- actually we mounted one of those over-the-door-hanger thingies which made things that way) so, my wife suggested we get a handplane to fit the door to the (now lower) opening.
> 
> ...


In Feb 1991 I was at the Kuwait Int'l Airport.

Some of saddam's associates had left their tank in a hanger.

I found 2 #4's and a 220 block plane in a tool box on the turret. Some Iraqi "gentleman " must have stole them from some Kuwaiti's woodshoop. No chance of finding an owner.
Those planes now sit in my toolbox. First planes I ever owned.
Used planes in woodshop in HS but they did not belong to me.


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## Moai (Feb 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *What was your first experience with handplanes?*
> 
> Mine was about 7 years ago, I still wasn't doing anything woodworking like, and we had moved to a new apartment where the bathroom door wouldn't close since it was too tall and would hit the jamb (well- actually we mounted one of those over-the-door-hanger thingies which made things that way) so, my wife suggested we get a handplane to fit the door to the (now lower) opening.
> 
> ...


My father started doing woodworking when I was a child. I always remember his couple of Record planes and other small stanley (#4), as many other tools…....but I never paid atention to the planes. He passed away when I was 22 (1993). Ten years later, living in California (I'm originaly from Colombia) sudenly felt an irresistible need to find a plane and start woodworking. Ebay was the place where I spend hours and hous for two years trading and learning about all type of planes. I can't explain my woodworking experience without them.


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## chriswright (Nov 13, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *What was your first experience with handplanes?*
> 
> Mine was about 7 years ago, I still wasn't doing anything woodworking like, and we had moved to a new apartment where the bathroom door wouldn't close since it was too tall and would hit the jamb (well- actually we mounted one of those over-the-door-hanger thingies which made things that way) so, my wife suggested we get a handplane to fit the door to the (now lower) opening.
> 
> ...


I can't remember my first experience with a plane. Having grown up in a woodshop it was most likely one of my dad's block or rabbet planes when I was young. Since then though I've used a number of planes and since learning to make a hand plane I've learned to tune and sharpen them to get a great cut. It's a great story and thanks for sharing.


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## woodbutcherer (Dec 9, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *What was your first experience with handplanes?*
> 
> Mine was about 7 years ago, I still wasn't doing anything woodworking like, and we had moved to a new apartment where the bathroom door wouldn't close since it was too tall and would hit the jamb (well- actually we mounted one of those over-the-door-hanger thingies which made things that way) so, my wife suggested we get a handplane to fit the door to the (now lower) opening.
> 
> ...


My dad gave me a box of my grandpa's old stuff. It had 7 or 8 different planes in it. I did some internet research on sharpening and once I got 'em all tuned up I fell in love. Now my Dewalt 13" planer just mostly collects dust. I love that SHHHHTTTTLLLLLPPPPP sound of a wood plane.

Gawd…if my wife had any idea what I have spengt on ebay for old planes…I would prob'ly call her the ex-wife.


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## TraumaJacques (Oct 25, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *What was your first experience with handplanes?*
> 
> Mine was about 7 years ago, I still wasn't doing anything woodworking like, and we had moved to a new apartment where the bathroom door wouldn't close since it was too tall and would hit the jamb (well- actually we mounted one of those over-the-door-hanger thingies which made things that way) so, my wife suggested we get a handplane to fit the door to the (now lower) opening.
> 
> ...


I was about 10 years old it was a dull number 4 and it chattered across the wood and made my teeth hurt but I kept going, then ,I was told there was a machine to do that kind of work (ie: planer).but I was hooked and now that I know how to sharpen one… well let's just say I do not own a planer.


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## Davesfunwoodworking (Oct 16, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *What was your first experience with handplanes?*
> 
> Mine was about 7 years ago, I still wasn't doing anything woodworking like, and we had moved to a new apartment where the bathroom door wouldn't close since it was too tall and would hit the jamb (well- actually we mounted one of those over-the-door-hanger thingies which made things that way) so, my wife suggested we get a handplane to fit the door to the (now lower) opening.
> 
> ...


My first plane was a stanley bench plane. My dad gave it to me. he showed me how to use it. Okay he used it I didn't learn much. He handed it to me and said here you go have fun. I put the plane on the wood and pushed and pushed some more. I couldn't understand why anyone in the world would use one of these crapy things. It messed my wood all up and I was tierd after pushing for hours. I told my dad to put it back I never wanted it again. I was about 10 years old. Now almost 40 and over 50 hand planes and some 10 I have made, I still push and push. Only tierd because of my age. I can say now that I understand how to use and sharpen hand planes.I now,some times just go out to my shop and put some wood in the vise and do nothing but plane. I don't need to make anything. 
I think for any one just starting out with a plane you read everything on hand planes you can. Take them apart and put them back together again set the blade and play with it all the time. I try to do this every time I go out to the shop. I grab one and play with it for about 10 minutes or so. Even if I don't use it on a project. Any way enough of that. see ya all.


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## kiwi1969 (Dec 22, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *What was your first experience with handplanes?*
> 
> Mine was about 7 years ago, I still wasn't doing anything woodworking like, and we had moved to a new apartment where the bathroom door wouldn't close since it was too tall and would hit the jamb (well- actually we mounted one of those over-the-door-hanger thingies which made things that way) so, my wife suggested we get a handplane to fit the door to the (now lower) opening.
> 
> ...


my first experience was a revelation for me. After 15 years in factories with every toy at my disposal I was asked to make a custom piece for a customer here in the philippines which required a curved bench back and I was stumpted. I had no easy way to do it without creating jigs which was a waste of time and money for a one off peice, so what to do. In the back of the toolroom was a rusty number 3 stanley, The only handplane in a factory full of moulders, spindles, and cnc,s and the only answer that made sense, So I cleaned the rust off the sole with a bit of 220 grit and put the iron across a grinder and set to work, Unbeleviably long shavings began to pour out the mouth of this rusted junk of a plane and within minutes I had the curve I wanted. I did not even know what each component of this strange contraption was called let alone how to use it . I soon figured out how to adjust all the bits and the tearout I had in places soon disapeared . After all those years on the machines that one day changed my woodworking life. The filipino workers were standing around starring in wonder at the shavings I had made and how fast I had created the peice "sir we have never seen anything done like that" I felt like a Guru, I didn,t have the heart to tell them I was as amazed as they were!
My career in woodworking is the richer for it thanks to that day and a rusted number 3 stanley.


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## RichClark (Jan 3, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *What was your first experience with handplanes?*
> 
> Mine was about 7 years ago, I still wasn't doing anything woodworking like, and we had moved to a new apartment where the bathroom door wouldn't close since it was too tall and would hit the jamb (well- actually we mounted one of those over-the-door-hanger thingies which made things that way) so, my wife suggested we get a handplane to fit the door to the (now lower) opening.
> 
> ...


I was like you.. But I was drolling at a Lee Neilson and could only afford a GroltZ #4 Smoother that chattered my teeth when I pushed it around. And Like you I read a great deal and "Frettled" it for en entire weekend.. Flattened its Sole, The Blade was beyond hope and I broke down and bought a "hock" blade and chip breaker for it.. I had to file the mouth square, the Frog and its mount points. But like you when I was done.. a bit of wax on the soul and Shuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuffffffffffffffffftttttttt. was all I heard.. Its so easy to size a drawer this way.. and the finish is ready to go on.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Cap Iron, and Lever Cap Positioning*

Hi,

I've seen these questions raised on several threads, and for many years didn't know the answer to these myself. I just stumbled upon the "answers" which reminded me of the questions, so I figured I'd post it here for anyone that might be able to use it. I stumbled upon these on Lee-Valley website which is a golden fountain of knowledge if you know how to find it (some of their articles and tips are not visible, nor easy to come upon unless you stumble upon it by chance , or really searching hard for it).

*Cap Iron (for Bevel Down planes)*

So, how much should the blade protrude from the end of the cap iron for planing applications?

for smoothing and working with figured wood - the blade should protrude about 1/64" from the end of the cap iron, to give a very fine, and light shave before the shavings contact the cap iron and curl upwards.

for rougher cuts, and faster material removal, the blade should be set 1/32" - 1/16" from the end of the cap iron - the more it protrudes, the rougher and faster the material removal will be, softer wood can take a rouger cut, while hardwoods might cause the plane to choke, so a little trial and error is required to get a feel for it.

*Lever Cap*

How tight should the Lever Cap be set? and this also relates to the question: can blade adjustments be made when the lever cap is locked? or do I need to unlock the lever cap to make those modifications?

The Lever Cap screw should be tightened down 1/4 of a turn after it makes contact with the cap/blade. This creates enough pressure for the Lever Cap to hold the blade securely in place, while still allowing enough freedom for the adjustment screws to push the blade in/out and lateral movements. In this case - it is not necessary to unlock the lever cap in order to make changes to the blade positioning (in/out, left/right). the adjustment screws and lateral adjustor should move freely, as should the blade (although pressed firmly against the plane's frog/body).

if the adjustment mechanisms are hard to use when the blade is locked in place - then either the lever cap is locked too tightly, or the adjustment mechanisms aren't clean. be careful as putting too much force on those might break them off.

Special Thanks to Lee Valley for putting out this info out there for anyone to use.

*Edit: here is an illustration (from Lee Valley which has excellent guides and information) of the handplane which shows the Lever Cap (which holds the blade to the plane) and the Cap Iron, which on Bevel down bench planes curls the shavings and controls the penetration of the blade in the wood: *


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## Derrek (May 19, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Cap Iron, and Lever Cap Positioning*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> ...


PurpLev,

This might be a little to "elementary", but is there anyway that you could post photos indicating what a "CAp Iron" and "Lever Cap" are? I am new to planes, but just bought a low angle block plane from Rockler and would like to know more… Thanks.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Cap Iron, and Lever Cap Positioning*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> ...


*Derrek* , it is elementary, but proper, as without knowing the parts - understanding their purpose is useless. thanks for bringing this up.

in your case, and in any block plane - you would not have the cap iron, as your blade is installed Bevel-Up, and thus has it's own built-in chip breaker functionality which in Bevel down planes is what the Cap Iron does.

I've added an illustration above that shows the different parts I refer to.


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## Woodlander (Apr 16, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Cap Iron, and Lever Cap Positioning*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> ...


hey…

it's been great reading your posts! you've done crazy things to a bowling alley…

just a quick point - here's a really easy way to find stuff online…

use google.com as the search engine (if you want, there are much more advanced ones to use, but for now it'll work)... type in the following (this is an example)... site:leevalley.com

this gives you access to search the site from the "backdoor" if you will…

So… for example, if you do [ site:leevalley.com "Lever Cap" ] with the parenthases only acting as the outside of the search box, it will search the lee valley site (only) for the exact term "lever cap"...

Anyway… hope this helps… this will enable you to search any site in this manner (ie. I work for Cooper Industries, maker of the Crescent Wrenches, Luftkin Tape Measures, Nicholson Rasps, Weller Soldering products, etc.) you would search the following site:coopertools.com weller to search the cooper tools site for info and pages about weller….

again… this is all super simple…. there's much better ways to do it… but hopefully this helps for now.

I can do this, but unfortunately have not yet figured out how to make a zero clearance insert for my R4511. Oh well… never mind my dado set.
-David


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Cap Iron, and Lever Cap Positioning*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> ...


Thanks *Woodlander*. that is indeed an easy way to find things online, highly recommended. thats how I personally do most of my online work.

on a side note - if I'm able to incorporate all the information into 1 post, and not force people to go and google things- I think it's easier to stay focused on the subject.

And thank you for your kind words.


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## Derrek (May 19, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Cap Iron, and Lever Cap Positioning*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> ...


PurpLev,

Thanks for the edit and update. I can't tell you how helpful it is to have these types of educational blogs done by people who do this on a regular basis. I don't have anyone close to me that I can learn from, so this is the place of "higher education". Thanks again.


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## RustyGoldman (Feb 7, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Cap Iron, and Lever Cap Positioning*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> ...


I have seen many DIY sites, however I must reaffirm that yours is designed brilliantly and is full of practical information. Far too often the sites are full of advertisement and leaves readers wondering what the real intent is!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Cap Iron, and Lever Cap Positioning*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> ...


Thank you for the comments, glad it is found useful. I know these are sometimes not the most obvious parts and context.


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## paulsalisbury (Apr 1, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Cap Iron, and Lever Cap Positioning*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> ...


Lee Valley is probably one of my favourite tool shops. Prompt service, knowledgeable staff and if I want a hard-to-find tool, I am certain that they will have it. The only downside is shipping costs. I've also noticed a steady increase in prices over the past few years. But granted, they are still one of the best there is.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*

While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.

As it happened, a day after It broke, I found a Stanley #6 fore plane on craigslist, and as luck had it - the guy was a few streets away from me. NICE. I figured I'm gonna go with a #6 that might be more suitable for jointing and planing surfaces flat than a #5 (although capable for the task ,is not as heavy and not as long), and since I also have a #4 for smoothing - I should be good to go.

I knew I would have to do some work fighting rust and restoring the plane as it was not being used and was purchased at an estate sale, but at $20 I was willing to take on that project (heck - the buck bros cost me twice that much for cheap material made plane).

here is what it looked like when I got it:




























After reading sIKEs' review of the Evap-o-Rust for removing rust (no harmful chemicals, easy on the skin, safe, and effective) I stopped at a local autozone and picked up a small bottle for ~$10 (with taxes). I wish they came in bigger bottles, cause it was kind of a PITA to try and soak an entire body of a #6 plane in a container so that it'll be all soaked inside. I couldn't find a container big enough - so had to resort to using a trash bag, and try to have the liquid contact the plane on all sides). it did a really swell job:










This is actually the 2nd attempt, as after the first attempt of soaking it with Evap-o-Rust and then washing with water/soap to clean them off, I noticed the parts developed flash-rust which I didn't quite like. so I did it again, and this time- I didn't dry the parts after the soap/water, but instead, sprayed them with WD-40, and then wiped them clean. worked great.

I also used a coffee filter to filter the dirty Evap-o-Rust back to it's container. (this is after the 2nd run, so there's less rust/left overs in the filter, as this is actually the 4th filter I ran through)










After dealing with the rust, it was time to replace the tote handle.

I decided to use a piece of curly maple that Len (Dusty56) gave me when he visit me in June. this was just the right usage for that piece as I'll be seeing that and admiring that maple every time I woodwork - Thanks Len!!!

so here is the blank I started with (after cutting it roughly on the bandsaw):










the ironic thing is that I'm planing the blank for the tote -with the plane that it's going to be installed in - quite a nice cycle of life.

the nice thing about hand planes - is that unlike power tools - you can actually plane and mill small pieces such as this one quite safely and quietly.

next - was glueing the template from Lee-Valley (Thanks LV) on the blank:










followed by rough bandsawing the shape:










After that, it was some shaping it with a rasp, and finishing it with wipe-on poly that I mixed:










Back in business!

eventually I would replace the front knob as well when I can turn, but for not this is workable.

working with this #6 made me realize how junk the Buck-Bros was… it was made of light cheap materials. this one is hefty, and heavy, everything is well made, and when it rides the wood, it's stable, and does the job on it's own with minimal labor on my side. works like a dream…

Thanks for reading,
Peace.

*EDIT:* per requests - here is a close up on the tote, I've had my shares of errors with it (chipped the top when drilling for the rod - which I glued in place, and fixed, then I milled the part too thick, and tried to fix by bandsawing down in thickness- throwing the center hole off center… I kinda fixed that one, but the hole looks off center, then in the 2nd to last coat of poly I didn't wipe off after sanding with 600grit, so the next coat was 'dirty'... maybe one day I'll strip it and refinish…) but without further ado - here is the tote:


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


It came out great


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## Bret (Oct 31, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Gorgeous! And what a bargain.


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Nice job on the plane.

You can get larger quantities of Evapo-Rust from Fastenal. I just ordered a five gallon container. It is much cheaper to buy in the bigger containers.

Evapo-Rust comes in 1 Qt, 1 Gallon, 2 Gallon, 5 gallon, and 55 Gallon drums.


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Wow, after reading this I may start hunting for cheap rusty gear on CL, since it seems relatively easy to restore.


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Nice job, Sharon.
Chronology of the restore in pictures was really interesting.
Ellen


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Actually there's both a #4 and a #7 available in my area (the #7 looks about as rough as the one you restored), but both are listed at $15… I may have some running to do today


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


John, Sharon another source for the Evaporust that may a little cheaper than Fastenal's price of $26.50l is a direct purchase from Evaporust.com. Their website lists a gallon at $21.00 + shipping. Shipping to my home address in Kentucky would run $9.50.


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## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


That turn out great< congrats on restoring a tool to its former glory. The handle looks super and I can't believe out clean all of the parts were after using the evapo rust. Keep it up.


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## RjGall (Jun 16, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


You got a great deal $20 and its pre ww2 you can't beat that ! And thanks for the how to tips I've never used EvapoRust but I will now !
Here's some usefull sites on Stanley planes
general info http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

Trade mark dates info http://www.antique-used-tools.com/stantms.htm

Purplev have you thought about making you own plane-s ?
If you do it right They are sooo sweet. 
Bhavens has made alot of his own and I have to tell you they are better than store bought.
(thats just my opinion though)


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Great restoration , Sharon !! Can we get a close up of the finished handle ? 
I'm glad that you found a good use for the Tiger Maple : ) Any plans on what to do with the rest of it ? 
Have you made anything with the Honduran Rosewood yet ?


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Nice looking handle!. Got those same plans in hand and it is on my to-do list this week. Need to turn a knob at some point also. Good restore on the metal!. I have found it in the Gallon Jug at O'Relliy's Autoparts. I found an older single space plastic drawer organizer. It is perfectly wide and deep enough for everything up to a #5 and I can submerge almost the whole thing and then flip it over to get the rest…works very well.

If you leave the evapo-rust on the metal it will keep it from flash rusting also. If it is new jucie it shouldn't leave the dark haze that the heavily used stuff leaves. You can use it mutiple times just leave it exposed to air, for some reason closing it causes it to go rancid…


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Thanks Everyone,

good tips on where to get larger containers of Rust-o-leum, if I'm in the need, I'll go there next time.

*Jimi_C* - those are good deals on #7 especially, and also a #4 is a good one to have (or 2, or 3 - each setup slightly different). just make sure they are good quality - Stanley, or other known brand.

*Rj* - thanks for pointing that out (mfg date) I didn't even think about it - just needed a plane for jointing applications, and a #7 is a bit large for me at the moment (storage limitations). I have been indeed thinking about making my own planes, but for lack of time, and lack of proper lumber (hard and tight) I'm going to hold off on that one for the time being- although in the future I might take up that project.

*Len* - I'll get another picture for ya soon,don't have any more at the moment.

*sIKE* - I have so many container that would gladly fit a #5 …. but not even one that would hold the body of this #6…. and I've checked every corner of the house…lol.


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## king (Aug 5, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Nice job, and a good find on the plane,I love seeing old tools brought back to new condition, and able to work again.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Great job on the handplane.


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


I've used evaporust a lot. I also did my large plane and didn't have a container large enough but still narrow enough so that I could use a smaller amount of evaporust. So I got a box of tin foil, gathered it up 4 sheets thick and formed a container the length and width of the plane body. I then put it in a large tray, just in case, and put the plane in it.

Also, for long slender objects a 1/2 inch or 1 inch or 2 inch, whatever size you need PVC with a cap on the end works well. and uses little of the fluid if you use the right size. This would be for long chisels or screw drivers or files.
I've also used a 1 liter soda bottle with the cone cut off the top.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Great idea *Daniel* with the tin foil- I do that ALL THE TIME for other uses, not sure why I didn't think of it for THIS ONE…


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


*Update* - I've added a close up picture of the tote in the original post above


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the post this is the 1st time I've seen good pictures of what Evap-o-Rust can do, I have 2 - 1 quart bottles I'm waiting to use.
And the tip about rinsing with WD-40 is good too.
Thanks again,
John


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## willmego (Mar 27, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Great job, I love seeing the restoration of old, but great tools like that. And so glad you used such a nice piece of wood on the tote!


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## DennisLeeZongker (Jul 25, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Very Nice! It's a great feeling to restore old tools. You did a incredible job. This is a great blog, thanks for sharing.


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## Tractorshaft (Oct 7, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


I found the Evapo rust at our local Tractor Supply Co. I have used it for a couple of years now, its great stuff. I follow it up with a quick bath of "Metal Ready" by the POR people. Gives a rust proof phosphate finish , good as-is or a great base for primer and paint.










POR Website


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


nice job


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## clada (Jun 2, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


thank purplev for this post ,I have a #5 1/5 that need some work, I am going to try it


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Go for it Boris - there really isn't much to it, and the benefits are so rewarding.


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## KathVent (Feb 21, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


Nice tip on filtering and recycling the Evap-o-rust. That stuff is expensive when you consider the relatively small amount you get.


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## APease75 (Feb 14, 2012)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


i have a number 6 that i just picked up at an antique dealer and i need to make a new tote for it, but cant seem to find the template from lee valley. do they still have them?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Fore play ...err... Fore plane that is.*
> 
> While working on building my workbench, I ended up breaking the Y part that is responsible for blade advancement (in/out) in my Buck-Bros #5 Jack plane. This one was probably one of my very first woodworking tools that I still have today, and with it I learned much about hand planing from proper tuning, to usage.
> 
> ...


*APease75*: it is still available here:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=63262&cat=1,46168


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*You don't know Jack!*

It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless:










I was bummed, but hey it was a good learning experience, and I have been keeping an eye open for a replacement #5 ever since. not really very actively, but still an open eye. While I would like a LV plane I just don't woodwork enough to justify it and was hoping to keep expenses to a minimum and then I spotted a #5 on this CL listing:










I offered 30, he said 40, I said OK. I figured there were enough things in there I can restore and use. I have an old brace, but really wanted one with a ratchet mechanism:










some calipers (might be beyond restore but I'll give it a try):










A couple more calipers and a right hand skew block plane (ironically this completes my righthand-lefthand skews) that went through an initial rust removal but will require a second bath and cleaning:










a doweling machine, and some files and hook and broken block plane body:










And of course the Jack of all trades with his little #4 brother:










I took it apart and put all the screws. frog, blade, plates and smaller parts in a evaporust bath only to find out it is probably expired and has long gone lost it's potent power (it did clean it some, but even 2 long baths still left a lot to be desired). I ordered a 1 gallon bottle that should arrive today and I will retreat all the smaller parts again.

As for the body, since it was not only rusty but also dirty beyond recognition I decided to go with scraping:










surprisingly a woodworking scraper did a fantastic job getting rid of most everything on there:









I followed up with a little filing to knock off some high spots. apparently the plane was mishandled and had some bumps on the back. I also touched up all the edges to smooth them up and followed with a rough diamond stone to smooth down the sole:









you can notice some low valley on the back of the sole, but I am not going to pay much attention to it as long as the crucial points of the sole are in alignment (toe, before and after mouth, and heel)

Then some cleaning with green scorth pad to remove rust remnants, and polishing it a bit more with the diamond stone and repeating on the sides as well:









now looks much better (still requires some touch ups, but am happy with it for now):









I will still give it lapping on a flat granite slab with sand paper just to bring everything in alignment later on, but need to take a break from this for a bit at the moment.

Next to the broken #5 it is replacing:









The major differences between the 2 are:
1. weight. the stanley is by far heavier which help when using it (less vibration, less jittering, less force to operate it)
2. mouth opening is much smaller on the stanley which produces better control on the shavings less rough work, easier operation
3. handle feels better and overall feels more 'there'

I think this also signifies the difference between older stanleys and newer LVs for example - it's not about will they cut better - most likely they won't (in most cases) but the operation, the dials, the overall feel and longevity of the tools are just much more user friendly on the newer designs. If I could I'd go LV for every plane I have, but for now I'll use whatever I can afford.

Ah…. the #5 is finally back home in place between the 6 and 4: 









like I mentioned, I still have some touch ups to give this one but for starters this plane is up and running if needed. I also need to redo the skew block plane and am not sure if I want to keep the other #4 and repurpose it for anything or just sell it as is. I am also currently restoring the brace, but more on that in another post.

Lesson learnt - sometimes scraping and filing is easier and faster than high tech electrolysis/liquids. it's kinda upliffting seeing the glittering clean metal surface under the layers of rust/dirt in front of your eyes with each stroke much like planing wood with a smoother.

Thanks for reading,
Peace.


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## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *You don't know Jack!*
> 
> It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless:
> 
> ...


nice find. the skew planes are a real treat. too bad about the buck bros (is that yoke cast aluminum??). How do you feel about making your own wooden planes?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *You don't know Jack!*
> 
> It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless:
> 
> ...


Thanks Aaron, yes that yoke is cast aluminum just like the body of the plane. I never really got interested in making wooden planes, although I might do that for a shoulder plane (awaiting blades that were just shipped 2 days ago). For me I think it's the fact that I like the dial controls and not much into hammering to set the blade. personal preference nothing more. I do have a hong kong style smoother though, but I have not used it as of yet.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *You don't know Jack!*
> 
> It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless:
> 
> ...


Nice find and very good reading.
Bert


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## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *You don't know Jack!*
> 
> It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless:
> 
> ...


yeah, i kind of know what you mean. I like the dial controls too. I made a smallish/block plane out of wood, but I didn't know what I was doing and kind of designed it wrong. I need to give wooden ones a fair try, but I wish there was a simple way to mechanize at least some of the adjustment.


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *You don't know Jack!*
> 
> It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless:
> 
> ...


Good work. I am sure that you are going to get a great deal of use out of that plane.


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *You don't know Jack!*
> 
> It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless:
> 
> ...


That Skew plane is probably worth more then what you spent on the whole box of tools. Nice find..


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *You don't know Jack!*
> 
> It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless:
> 
> ...


Congrat, what wonderful finds.
The skew was really a luck.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## phil619 (Dec 13, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *You don't know Jack!*
> 
> It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless:
> 
> ...


There is kinda of intimacy you get with a plane when you restore it. For me, I think of the history of plane. (especially pre war planes). I think of the craftsman who used the plane, not as a past time, but to make a living and feed his family. In some way I feel I am honoring that man and his plane by bringing it back to life and putting it back to work. Old planes may not have the tight tolerances or be as user friendly as the LN planes, but the have soul, and have the same ability to produce fine furniture.


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *You don't know Jack!*
> 
> It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless:
> 
> ...


That "hook" was the only "non-woodworking" tool I saw in the whole lot! Looks like a good buy to me!
By the way that "hook" looks like a hay hook to me, just like the old ones we used to handle bales of hay when i was a kid. Newer hooks have a much longer shaft and a smaller hook designed for the newer bales (heavier, tighter bales).


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *You don't know Jack!*
> 
> It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless:
> 
> ...


As for the Skew plane I was originally planning on selling it but then decided to keep it as it is a left hand skew, but then again it is not a rabbeting plane so I may not really need the left hand block plane and it might end up on the for-sale listings after all.

*Phil* - I agree with you that all planes produce the same end results (generally speaking). I however never developed any intimate relationships with my planes, they live in their house I live in mind - separate beds and all. except if they were given to me in certain circumstances - than they have a story that is relevant for me.

*Dez*- I was thinking I could use the hook to handle logs when I resaw lumber. probably not going to happen, but it's a cool hook.


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## Dez (Mar 28, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *You don't know Jack!*
> 
> It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless:
> 
> ...


It is a cool hook, I still have a pair and I have used mine for similar uses!!


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## garriv777 (Jul 22, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *You don't know Jack!*
> 
> It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless:
> 
> ...


I think that hook is actually used for big blocks of ice. Something they used in days gone by to man handle the big blocks. Nice find on CL. I've got to start checking that site out once in awhile myself.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*Ex Skews Me, Is that a block in your plane?*

It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?).

Following up the last post in this blog series I finally found a replacement #5 for my broken one. I found it in a bunch of tools and was so focused on the #5 that I didn't really pay much attention to the rest of the things, but took it as a whole figuring I can always use an extra tool or 2, or sell some to recoup the expense.

One of those things I was planning on restoring and reselling was the block plane in the bunch only to find that it is a skew block plane which made me rethink the reselling option but it was still the road I was about to take. I am not a collector but a user which I guess is why I didn't do my homework ahead of time, but one night I was just curious to see the values of what I got and searched online for the model numbers of the braces and the block plane I got. it is a Stanley 140 skew block plane:










To my surprise I found that it is not only a block plane, and not only a skew plane, but it is also a rabbet plane. much like the LV one I had and reviewed not too long ago. Now it hit me - I guess thats what those 2 screws that I cleaned were all about - they were holding the removable side wall of the plane that transforms it into a rabbet plane which positions the blade at the edge of the plane almost exposed which allows it to plane down rabbets square to the shoulder:










oh boy- did I feel naive at that moment and darn lucky at the same time! Naive since I didn't even realize what a great little tool fell into my hands (when I cleaned and derusted it and took the screws off I didn't even realize I could pop that side wall off) and glad since when Lee valley came out with the skew block planes, they offered a right hand and a left hand skew. I only ordered the right hand skew to avoid going overboard with expenses figuring that the majority of my work would require the right hand although it would be nice to have both (depending on the grain flow of a board) - ironically, this Stanley 140 is a left hand skew which completes the set for me:










And so I cleaned and derusted and cleaned some more (all photos above are after cleaning at different stages). lapped the blade and sharpened it and took it for a test drive. it cuts end grain clean and easy:










*Benefits of This plane:*
1. Block plane - small convenient and easy to use in many positions and circumstances from trimming to fixing to adjusting to fitting parts/drawers/etc together.

2. skewed blade - reduces the actual cutting angle of the blade by presenting the blade at an angle to the forward planing action of the plane eases the cuts on difficult grains especially end grain.

3. rabbet plane - with the side wall removed ,the blade is positioned inline with the side of the plane allowing it to be used to plane rabbets (grooves at the edge of a board) with a square shoulder to the board.

As for how it compares to the LV plane:
1. It is larger, and while it feels comfortable to use I like how the LV plane blends in your palm and is more ergonomic to hold and use.
2. It is lighter in weight (or so it feels to me)
3. blade angle is slightly higher than the LV which is lower. the LV plane cuts end grain much much easier and smoother. both do a good job, but there is definitely a difference in effort there.
4. no adjustable mouth which can be handy to take light passes with less effort on the LV
5. blade adjustments are smooth and work well, but on the LV plane they are smoother and more responsive, less backlash, and also has lateral controls on the Norris adjuster whereas the Stanley you have to set the blade by hand - so far not an issue as the blade is easy to set and sets well, but a difference nonetheless.
6. planing rabbets requires the side wall to be removed and stored somewhere whereas the LV plane is machined to eliminate the need for a removable side wall. From my experience this could also lead to scratching your stock if you accidently tip your block plane during work which can cause the edge of the blade to drive into the stock you are planing requiring additional work to clean up - so this would be a positive thing for the Stanley depending on your point of view.

Bottom line, nice little plane. will definitely see constant use and obviously a keeper.


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## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Ex Skews Me, Is that a block in your plane?*
> 
> It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?).
> 
> ...


absolutely awesome. what a lucky find. it looks like its in really good shape too!


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *Ex Skews Me, Is that a block in your plane?*
> 
> It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?).
> 
> ...


Verrrrry interesting…...

Nice find!


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Ex Skews Me, Is that a block in your plane?*
> 
> It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?).
> 
> ...


Lucky.


----------



## cjwillie (Sep 6, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Ex Skews Me, Is that a block in your plane?*
> 
> It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?).
> 
> ...


Recently cleaned up a #140 that I found at a garage sale. It was in amazing condition, still has the factory grind on the blade and about 99% of it's japanning. It still needs sharpened and I can't wait to use it. I thought about selling it but the more I look at it the more I want to keep it! I also found a #53 Stanley spokeshave in even better shape. The only marking on it is "Stanley Rule & Level" on the blade and a "B" cast into the handle under the blade. Haven't been able to date it. Once I get it tuned up, it might be a keeper too.


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Ex Skews Me, Is that a block in your plane?*
> 
> It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?).
> 
> ...


One thing to have a find in a flea market or garage sale, another to find it in your own collection. A score within a score! Kind of like leftovers, it makes you feel good twice 

David


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Ex Skews Me, Is that a block in your plane?*
> 
> It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?).
> 
> ...


I read this blog and then went out with a hacksaw to cut the side off my LN block plane. It didn't work so well. I blame you for giving me the idea so please send a new plane to my show ASAP.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Ex Skews Me, Is that a block in your plane?*
> 
> It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?).
> 
> ...


You write all that stuff just to make us jealous!
Congratulations! 
You succeeded.
Bert


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *Ex Skews Me, Is that a block in your plane?*
> 
> It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?).
> 
> ...


great find. That's an interesting plane to say the least.


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## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *Ex Skews Me, Is that a block in your plane?*
> 
> It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?).
> 
> ...


Score!


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## moonls (Mar 23, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *Ex Skews Me, Is that a block in your plane?*
> 
> It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?).
> 
> ...


You are the best woodworking detective Sharon. And this post shows that early craftsman were very practical and clever at making multi-tasking tools that can last generations!


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *Ex Skews Me, Is that a block in your plane?*
> 
> It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?).
> 
> ...


so lucky!


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *Ex Skews Me, Is that a block in your plane?*
> 
> It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?).
> 
> ...


you better worry about the green light in the horison ….......that coming closer … and closer …. and closer

concruulation :-(

take care
Dennis


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

*#7: confused? - good!*

So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…

Still confused… oh boy. I guess I could rearrange the posts on this series to match up with the plane numbers, but that means that I'd have to post 110 posts in this series if I ever want to mention the Stanley 110 plane… maybe I'll just keep it simple and as is 

This post is about the #7 hand plane (Stanley #7) which is a jointer plane. it is the longest of the more popular hand plane (aside for the #8 which is heavier and seems less popular because of it's added weight) and is used to joint edges flat and perpendicular to faces of boards, and to plane boards and panels flat.

The longer bed of the jointer plane gives it a better reference when planing boards so that it isn't affected by bumps and valleys as much as the smaller planes that sort of ride up and down on those high/low spots and by not being as sensitive to those it remains flat and takes off the high spots more evenly resulting in a flat surface over all.

They say Luck comes to those who wait… and I've waited for a while now for a jointer plane while using a smaller #6 hand plane which worked OK for me, albeit with less of a bed length to register flatness against, but I finally found the affordable Stanley #7 jointer plane for me and snagged it for $15 off of eBay.

I must say it arrived packed a little too well (if only we had these problems more often):









inside, was our subject of interest:









It was filthy, the back handle is broken like 90% of these hand planes, and the metal is somewhat rusty - not too bad. the pictures on eBay were pretty horrible, but I could make 2 things - broken wooden handle that is fixable, and metal did not have any signs of pitting/welding/breakage - a perfect candidate for restoration. it was dirty, and the bidding was low, and I assume because of he poor picture quality the auction did not get much attention - to my delight. someone did outbid my $10 initial offer, but nobody wanted to pay more than $15 for this - which was very good for me.

So, how do you grow a handplane? you plant it in a planter of course. add some warm water with electricity conducting solution, add some 12v power, and wait patiently:









While the plane body was bathing in electrolysis I soaked the smaller parts in evapo-rust over night and the result was quite pleasing:









There were still a few rust spots that I scraped off, and there are still a few that I might give it a 2nd treatment, but for now, it is good - next I'll sharpen the blade, and give it the normal tune up. but I'm pleased with the find.

For a while there I was using a #6 for jointing as it was my largest, and always wondered how much bigger the #7 is. When I first received it, it didn't seem that much bigger, but putting them cheek to cheek there is some noticeable difference:









While at it, we took a family photo (block,4,5,6,7):









I was concerned that a #7 won't fit in my tool cabinet for length reasons, but as it is, it just barely fits in with 1/2" to space - PERFECT. I will have to reorganize the planes storage area (about time) to make room for all of them properly. but for now I think I'm done looking at handplanes, have all those I 'need'.

Thanks for reading,
Peace.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


Coming along nicely. Great price on that. Did you make the tote for the #6, and if so are you going to use the same wood on the #7? Maple I am guessing?


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## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


nice find, and treatment. are you going to put in a new blade?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


Thanks *Shane*, yes I did make the tote for the #6, but as much as I love that maple, I think it's too light for a handplane (although as far as shape its the most comfortable one I have). Now that I have the 'set' I am thinking of making a matching set of totes and knobs for all of them from a single board (or at least matching material) and shape the totes to my liking while at it…. but not a necessity so much so, that for now I'm going to leave the broken handle on the #7 on it.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


*Aaron* - thanks. and I am planning on using the Sweatheart blade that came with the plane. unless it really performs poorly (which I doubt it will). my budget is limited and had to wait for a #7 at the mentioned price to even be able to afford it- it feel awkward spending on a blade (yes a good one) more than I did on the entire plane.

FYI, I am using the factory blades on all of my planes ,and have yet come to a point I felt I needed anything better. blades are alway sharp and perform superbly.


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


Umm, if you dont want that sw blade, I would gladly take it off your hands. : ) I am a sucker for rosewood, but having said that, there is never a reason why figured maple isnt a great option. LN uses it in saws. Walnut, cherry, bubinga, cocobola and many others make attractive options. You will have to post when you get them all matcing.


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## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


you got them looking good , i just got a couple of planes off ebay that need to be cleaned up aboult how long did you leave them in the electrolysis. dose it hurt if you left them in over nite


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


*Shane* thats a good point, maybe I'm thinking it's too light because the front knob is dark (original) maybe if they match it'll look more pleasing…. food for thought (good thing I have plenty of time before this project will see the light of day  )

*eddie* - thanks. electrolysis can stay as long as you leave it on - at some point it'll just not have any more rust/oxidation to pull from the rusty part and nothing will happen in the solution… so you can leave it for a long time with no harm. I left it in for ~5 hours total. Keep in mind that electrolysis produces oxygen and nitrogen into the air - so make sure you do it in a well ventilated area, with no sparks/pilot lights around


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## alba (Jul 31, 2010)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


*but for now I think I'm done looking at handplanes, have all those I 'need'.*

Now that is some statement. LoL

The No7 is a wonderful plane the balance is great

It also is a nice length for clamping in the vice for

fine work

jamie


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


ha, thanks *Jamie* - I'm actually good with my statements. was only looking at planes once in a while waiting for that #7. did not spend any $$$ last year on tools at all. nor this year. I do not say much, but when I do - I mean it.

clamping the 7 in the vise is a great idea - thanks for the reminder


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## Gerry1 (Jul 12, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


Nice find, Sharon! You've given me the incentive to look here and in Phoenix for something similar! BTW, what is the mix of your electricity conducting solution?

Gerry


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


Great find at that price! You did the smart thing…. look for an ugly duckling, but one that has all the major parts and no broken metal. Pretty much everything else is fixable.


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## toeachhisown (Eddie) (Mar 30, 2011)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


thank for thet heads up on the electrolysis *PurpLev * will do it out side


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


Thank you for the comments.

*Gerry*, when I was taking chemistry we simply used high salt content in the water for electrolysis, but for removing rust everything that I found suggested using washing-soda - which is what I used for this. if you can't find washing soda locally (I couldn't) you can make it - I blogged about it here when I restored my lathe

*Charlie* around here we call it 'being smaaat' 

*eddie* - I did it in my garage and just kept the door open for fresh air to circulate. doing it outside will also work. I personally like to keep it monitored. something that might happen is if the electrode will get caked and covered with rust, then it will not conduct electricity anymore (or not as well) and the speed of the process will reduce (or stop) at which point you can take the electrode out (after stopping power to it) and remove the rust from it using a wire brush, or replace it with another electrode.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


Sharon: I used pvc pipe with a cap on each end to hold a plane with evapo-rust. It did a great job with having to get a big container and a lot of materials.

Nice job.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


great score … congrats with the new toy

Dennis


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


What a wonderful plane - now back to life.
That was quite a buy.
Congrat on the 'little' new.
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


Hi Sharon,

Nice score. Looks like it is cleaning up real well.

It's quite a collection you have there.

Lee


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## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


Great score, but using a planter box is what I gleaned from this post. You're a genius, Sharon.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PurpLev said:


> *#7: confused? - good!*
> 
> So this is Post #6 in this series, but it's about the #7…
> 
> ...


Nice score on the #7


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