# Replacement Fence for Old Rockwell Tablesaw



## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

I am looking to replace the Stock fence on the Rockwell Tablesaw I just got but I don't want to have to drill the castiron table sides to do it so I am looking for a Bolt On replacement. I have been told by some that the DELTA 36-T30 T2 30-Inch Fence and Rail System will bolt on but I can't find the specs on it to show me the distance between the holes that hold it on the table. I will measure the holes on mine and add that when I can.


----------



## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

That looks like my first real table saw (over 40 years ago). You are wise to get rid of that fence. I chucked mine immediately, and made my own rails out of angle iron and made a T square fence. Much more satisfactory in every way.

I wouldn't hesitate to re drill whatever holes you need. Though I keep seeing statements that cast iron is hard to drill, I have never found it to be so. Ordinary high speed drills, or cobalt if you are concerned, will do it. Iron is also easy to thread, with an ordinary hand tap. You can also drill properly lined up holes in the replacement rails. Of course you can drill your holes wherever you want if you make your own rails.

I do have to admit, on reflection, that a lot of people are unwilling to modify tools other than bolting something on to existing structure. Something about the sacredness of new tools, or warranty, or whatever. I think I hardly own a tool that I haven't modified in some way-sometimes when they were practically brand new. No bolts of lightning have struck yet.


----------



## Deulen (Jun 12, 2010)

I've modified many tools and believe me, Cast iron drills and taps like butter. I've broken hundreds of taps especially in Stainless or Aluminum but, never in Cast iron. Like sex, first time you do it can be scarey or feel uncomfortable but, you get over it. Think of it as losing your virginity again and this time 
grin when you drill it!


----------



## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

Hey, I have one of those, and need to do the same thing.
I believe those fences should fit without drilling.


----------



## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

> Hey, I have one of those, and need to do the same thing.
> I believe those fences should fit without drilling.
> 
> - unbob


You wouldnt by chance have the right Manual and Parts list for it would you? I found a manual that covers the unit that is actualy labled contractors saw rather than tilting arbor saw and it is very close to this one but the parts lists I have found are all way off.
Another thing is that I only paid $150 for the saw and it looks like the T2 Fence is going to cost more than that unless I can find one on CL or some place else.

I also started a Blog to cover what I am doing with the saw since I got it. you can check iit out here.
http://lumberjocks.com/Racer2007/blog/43207


----------



## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

My saw is the same except the switch is a small toggle on the left side. It says 10" contractors saw. I looked for a manual on the vintage machine site, none there.
Its OK to put a good fence on the machine even though the contractor saws are going cheap, they are still good working machines. You can also put the new fence on a better saw down the road.


----------



## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

Very Super Cool Tool makes a really nice extruded aluminum fence that fits most diameter rails.

And, as unbob suggested, you can always move it to another saw later.

Here is an in depth video review by the wood whisperer.


----------



## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

> My saw is the same except the switch is a small toggle on the left side. It says 10" contractors saw. I looked for a manual on the vintage machine site, none there.
> Its OK to put a good fence on the machine even though the contractor saws are going cheap, they are still good working machines. You can also put the new fence on a better saw down the road.
> 
> - unbob


unbob , I found this one on the vintage machine site that I am useing for now but it looks to be the one you need.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=5980


----------



## Racer2007 (Jan 13, 2011)

> Very Super Cool Tool makes a really nice extruded aluminum fence that fits most diameter rails.
> 
> And, as unbob suggested, you can always move it to another saw later.
> 
> ...


Yea I have seen that one as well and also saw the review by the Wood whisperer as well , but again it is more than I paid for the saw to start with so I think I will live with the standard fence for now and just measure a lot until I can find a T2 or something else on CL or ebay. Or maybe just wait till the Tax Money comes i.n


----------



## unbob (Mar 10, 2013)

I bought mine used in the early 80s, my first saw. The Jetlock fence has been a love to hate it thing, but with a few tricks, I always have been able to make it work. I wanted to put a Biesmeyer on it, then found a heavy cabinet saw with a Bies for not much more then the cost of a new fence.
I kept the contractor saw, nice to have a second saw, a little better fence on it would be nice though.


----------



## phildupreez (2 mo ago)

I appreciate this is an old thread ....................

I have the Rockwell 9" contractors saw from 1980's.

*1.* I stuffed up the drive pulley on the blade. It still saws but shudders at start up and stop.
How does one replace this pulley as I cannot get in deep enough. Where can I buy spares?

*2.* The throat plate - I destroyed this while trying to refurbish an old bee brood box. There was a thick 40mm screw hidden in the gunk. The box was eventually dumped as there was too much rot in the timber. I made a very quick replacement with some 10mm pine. Makes nice zero clearance insert. BUT I would like to buy a new plate, where are spares available?

*3.* The fence does not seem to be quite that 90 degree straight - any thoughts on that one?

I do all my rip cutting on this saw, for cross cutting I have a DeWalt RAS.

Thank you


----------

