# Removing stuck set screw (no head, drill it out?)



## Stewbot (Jun 7, 2015)

I'm not sure if this is the correct section to post this question in, but here it is.

Does anybody have any advice as to how to remove a set screw which no longer has a head?

I was removing a set screw from my machine and the damn head of the screw popped off, it was a hex/Philips head set screw. It was torqued way too hard (not by me) and in hindsight, I should have eased up on it, sprayed it etc etc. BUT I didn't, and here I am. The set screw is still deep in the cavity and there is very little exposed thread to bite onto with a vice grip. I'm assuming all I can do is drill it out. Any recommendation as to how to do this the best way? Should I use a diameter bit just smaller than the screw diameter, or much smaller? Also, is it just as simple as drilling it until very little is left and then just remove the small pieces?

Any help would be appreciated.


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## SirIrb (Jan 12, 2015)

easyout
http://www.amazon.com/pcs-Easy-Out-Set-TAIE0739/dp/B0027B5GT0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1434041198&sr=8-1&keywords=easy+out+tool

hope they make one small enough for you.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

What he said. If not, might have to drill and tap the hole a thread size up.


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## SirIrb (Jan 12, 2015)

how big of a set screw? If you are less than a #4 I think this will get dangerous. Heck, even a #4 or #6 is tough. I see you having to drill up one tap drill size and placing a bigger set screw as Fridge mentioned. Hope the place has the meat for this.


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## fuji1 (May 24, 2015)

Easy outs can work but go slow because the easy out is usually hardened steel. If you break the tip inside the stuck screw it will be harder to drill out. I've recently had success with a left handed drill bit. if you can heat the area safely even with a heat gun that can do wonders.

Good luck,

Joe


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Depending on application, some loctite may have been used on it.. and if it was the red variety, you will need to heat it up pretty good (500F) before it will come loose. Even if the red stuff wasn't used, heat will almost always get a stuck fastener to break free in combination with an easyout or left handed drill bit. For the future, you might also want to invest in a handheld impact driver which can work wonders on stubborn screws. Also, I'm confused about a set screw having a 'head' (set screws don't have heads), and one that is 'hex/phillips'? How can it be both? Pictures?

Cheers,
Brad


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## Stewbot (Jun 7, 2015)

Got an impact driver, in hindsight I could have reached for that and some wd-40 or something, but I wasn't expecting said screw to be so tight. I don't remember wrenching on it that hard but must have been enough to rip the head off. It was the set screw to a centrifugal switch. I drilled it out, and am just gonna replace the centrifugal switch. Quick surgery, but I figured I'd inquire with this group just in case any tricks of the trade were in order.


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## Stewbot (Jun 7, 2015)

Thanks for the input everyone. Much appreciated.


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## dawsonbob (Aug 5, 2013)

Good advise has already been given, so I'll leave that alone.

Brad, here's an example of hex/phillips head screws









I use these fairly often when I need to torque them down more than I trust a phillips head.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> Brad, here s an example of hex/phillips head screws
> [...]
> I use these fairly often when I need to torque them down more than I trust a phillips head.
> 
> - dawsonbob


Ok, I know what a hex/phillips screw is, but the OP was about a *set screw*, which is a different kind of animal  Those hex/phillips things are typically considered sheet metal screws and usually have a courser thread, while set screws have a finer machine thread, no head and typically use a hex wrench (not a hex driver) or flat head screwdriver to remove. Guess it was the terminology that was confusing (or not enough coffee).










Cheers,
Brad


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## Stewbot (Jun 7, 2015)

The screw I was talking about looked more like (looked, things toast now) one Dawson bob posted. It was referred to as a set screw to me by the manufacturers technician. But yeah, doesn't really look like a traditional set screw. But served the same purpose as a set screw. So, is it a set screw, for future reference?


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## dawsonbob (Aug 5, 2013)

Okay, I'll admit that 90 percent of the set screws I've seen look like the one Brad posted, but I have also seen headed ones, especially on larger parts like hand wheels, etc.

You are traveling through another dimension, a dimension not only of sight and sound but of mind. A journey into a wondrous land whose boundaries are that of imagination. Your next stop, the Twilight Zone!


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Impact drivers come to mind as well


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## RPhillips (May 16, 2013)

In my past years racing RC cars, I've had many screws that I have had to remove after having the head pop off or a stuck set screw… I have always found heat and Kroil oil (best stuff on earth for removing "locked" nuts and bolts) to be the best solution. A left handed drill bit or an easy out will work much better if you apply a penetrating oil (like Kroil) and then heat the body that is holding the screw before trying to torque out the screw.

I've found set screws can include headed screws, but are most commonly are the headless type, typically referred to as "grub" screws.

Best of luck.


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## Stewbot (Jun 7, 2015)

Thats great advice, thank you. Im gonna throw that into the bag of tricks. Im now beginning to wonder why the set screw was so tight in the first place. I assume it was torqued too much in the first place…but wondering if other factors were involved. The set screw was holding the centrifugal switch in place on the (shaft) inside the motor compartment. Could it be that the heat from the motor, could have had any effect on this scenario?


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

You can cut a slot on the head of the set screw with a dremel/cutting wheel, then use a slot screwdriver to loosen it and take it out.
Another method is to drill a small hole in a small piece of mild steel(1" wide x 5" long 11 gauge), put the hole right above the set screw, mig weld the set screw to the mild steel where the hole is, once cooled use the welded piece as a handle and unscrew(ccw) .
Other way mentioned like drill and tap a size bigger will always work, never tried easy out so I have no experience there.
Good luck.


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## Stewbot (Jun 7, 2015)

In hindsight, could have gone with the dremel technique as well, I got my lady a dremel last Xmas, but im not sure in this situation I had enough left to get a deep enough crevice, w/o cutting up the centrifugal switch (which got damaged anyway, well not damaged beyond repair, I can tap a new hole). I thought of the welding technique (not as detailed) but I soon remembered my welder got ripped off. Anyway thanks again for the advice, the deeds been done in this case, but im sure I'll run into this little riddle again some day….Its kind of fun to navigate these tricky situation once you get off the initial anger of doing something stupid like I did. I've never re-tapped (correct term) a drilled out hole. What tools are needed (I can think of the name right now dye or something?) and does it usually work out well? Pretty easy to get right?


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## runswithscissors (Nov 8, 2012)

Set screws are usually hardened steel, and pretty hard to drill. Cobalt drills are your best bet. The hex/phillips combo is probably not hardened, however.

Tapping a blind hole can be started with a standard (tapered) tap, but if you want to tap all the way to the bottom, especially if it's a shallow hole, you need to follow up with a bottoming tap, which has very little taper. Cutting oil is helpful, and clearing the chips frequently also.

Dies, of course, are for threading a bolt or machine screw, not a hole. Male threads, not female.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

A tap


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)




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## Stewbot (Jun 7, 2015)

Gotcha, good stuff.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Once I found this type of remover, I've not used any other kind since. It's called GRABIT and It works! Available at HD, Lowes and pretty much any hardware store.


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## upchuck (Nov 3, 2013)

> ...Its kind of fun to navigate these tricky situation once you get off the initial anger of doing something stupid like I did.
> - Stewbot


Stewbot-
That sentence made me smile because it rings so true with my experience. For me the challenge is to minimize my anger and the time between the anger and the fun.
Glad to hear that you got the situation resolved and learned a few things. I know I've learned a few tricks from reading about your trials and the tips to correct the situation.
chuck


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## Stewbot (Jun 7, 2015)

Chuck, I come from a family of tradesmen. My grandfather, uncles, older cousins, all carpenters, built thier own houses, work in the trades etc. but unfortunately I grew up on the opposite side of the country from them all, and my immediate family is far from that realm. A lot of The lessons I've had to learn have been hard learned, and you can see it through the progression of my projects. Sometimes I look at some of my older projects, and I need to squint just a little bit, as to not burn my eyes. So frustration and this realm I sometimes know too well. But with that said, it's nice to know that good information and advice is never too far away on LJ's, and all the information and knowledge and technique in this thread that has been shared is definetely appreciated.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Anyway the whole part can be removed from the machine?

If so can and you can secure it on a drill press, you can drill it out fairly accurately, but you need some really good HS bits.

Once you get it drilled out, you can try an easy out, but don't be surprised if it doesn't work, so then you'll have to drill the whole screw out and retap it. If you have to use a bigger screw, you can taper the end to fit in what ever slot it locks into.

I recently had an issue like this with a finish mower pulley.

The biggest mistake I made was not getting the center punch right in the middle of the screw.
Make sure you've got it files flat before you try to CP it and drill it.

Good luck.

Oh, and after you get it out, can you replace it with a proper set screw?


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## Jay101182 (Jun 18, 2015)

> In hindsight, could have gone with the dremel technique as well, I got my lady a dremel last Xmas, but im not sure in this situation I had enough left to get a deep enough crevice, w/o cutting up the centrifugal switch (which got damaged anyway, well not damaged beyond repair, I can tap a new hole). I thought of the welding technique (not as detailed) but I soon remembered my welder got ripped off. Anyway thanks again for the advice, the deeds been done in this case, but im sure I ll run into this little riddle again some day….Its kind of fun to navigate these tricky situation once you get off the initial anger of doing something stupid like I did. I ve never re-tapped (correct term) a drilled out hole. What tools are needed (I can think of the name right now dye or something?) and does it usually work out well? Pretty easy to get right?
> 
> - Stewbot


Maybe I missed it…You said "The deed's been done". How did you end up getting it out?


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