# DELTA WINs -- RIKON Mini Lathe Model 70-100 or the DELTA 46-460 ????



## HorizontalMike

UPDATE: Delta 46-460 Midi-Lathe has arrived. **

OK, I am starting to look at the feasibility of purchasing the Rikon Mini Lathe 70-100 AS MY FIRST LATHE. I have read the other threads regarding which to buy…HF, Jet, PM, etc. I will NOT consider the larger lathes at this point as I will never be able to spend multiple thousand$ on a lathe.

*My GOAL: I envision wanting to turn table legs in the range of ~30in length, turnings for chair backs, as well as turn hand plane knobs and smaller such items.*

I am also considering buying the:

 RIKON Mini Lathe 24in Bed Extension ($99.99) because of this expandability in capacity.
WoodRiver High Speed Steel Beginner's Turning Set, 5 piece ($157.49)

That said, what I am looking for in the way of advice:


Are the above turning tools enough to start, quality/quantity? Do I need a smaller set as well?


Is 1/2hp motor enough, considering my goals?


Is the RIKON Universal Mini Lathe Stand
1. Capable/Able to mount the this lathe WITH a 24in extension?
2. Is this worth it? I have read some neg. reports regarding this stand and wonder if I should pass, and make my own stand or plate for mounting on my workbench when needed?


*AND THE BIG QUESTION-* What OTHER additional things do I need in the way of collets, chucks, jaws, etc.? I have read several time where this may be the biggest part of the money hole, so help me out here.

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*RUNNING TALLY OF ADDED SUGGESTED ITEMS NEEDED (from posters), OR OF ITEMS NOT NEEDED:*


Bionic Face Shield ($56.99)
Tap to match Spindle -- 1in x 8TPI ($17.99)
Drill Chuck with MT#2 taper (Sale! $39.99)
HF 8 Piece Wood Lathe Turning Tool Kit ($18.99)
Set of 3 HSS Benjamin's Best Versa Chisels: 1/2in, 3/4in & 1in ($36.95)
Harbor Freight 4in x 36in Belt Sander ($79.99 Sale before 20% OFF coupon) PLUS ~ $35 to convert to Sharpening/Buffing System TOTAL MAYBE $115.00
General Tools 12-1/4 in. Outside Caliper ($27.97)


NO to stand-build own cabinet or base to anchor to WB
Collet holder-Buy LATER On

Sub-Total of Add-ons = ~$320 so far (many at Sale prices)

Rikon 70-100 Mini Lathe = $360 on $ale

*RIKON Rough TOTAL = $360 on $ale + $320 = ~ $700* + Sales Tax/Shipping

*DELTA 46-460 Rough TOTAL = ~ $680 + $320 = ~ $1,000* + Sales Tax/Shipping


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## Cosmicsniper

I'm anxious to hear the opinions on this one, Mike. I'm sure I'll be doing something similar next year.


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## crank49

I don't have that exact lathe, but the HF lathe that looks like it. 
I also have the HF high speed tool set and I bought the bed extension from Penn State Industries.
The HF is identical to one of PSI lathes, but I think the Rikon, Jet, Delta machines are far superior in fit and finish.
So we were thinking along the same lines, but I just went cheapo because I fully intend to get a much bigger lathe if I like the process. Mainly because I want to do bowls on a larger machine eventually and if I do pens the little lathe is fine for those.

Additional tools you need are, a couple of chucks, adjustable one for the headstock, and a drill chuck on a #2 Morse taper to plug into the tail stock.

Also, one of the "Easy Wood" tools with the replaceable carbide insert would be really nice, but cost twice as much as my whole starter set cost.

You need a full face shield also.

You will need a sharpening station as well. I built a shop made station based on some setups I saw here on LJ. Sharpening is much easier than I expected. Not like the kind of precision you look for in chisels and plane irons.

After using mine for a while, 1/2 hp is under powered for anything bigger than pens in my opinion. I would have just gotten the HF 12×33 lathe with at least a 3/4 hp motor if I was doing this over.

The bed extension is a good idea in theory, but I'd rather have a bigger machine to start with.
I built a nice little cabinet to put mine on and planned to store things in the bottom. Wound up having to store sand bags and concrete blocks in the bottom to keep in on the floor.


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## dkirtley

Don't discount turning legs in parts that connect. Think pool cue.

No on the stand. That won't work for the extension. It will sag in the middle. You want something heavier anyway. You can rarely go wrong with a cabinet with storage for all the goodies.

Really consider variable speed rather than belt changes. Life is much better with a variable speed. Ability to go slow is more important than fast.

Don't even think about chucks when you first start. There are a lot of other ways to hold stuff. You don't have a large enough swing on that lathe to do really big pieces anyway like bowls and hollow forms that really makes chucks worthwhile. The 1" x 8 tpi spindle is smaller than most spindles if you get to really like turning and want to upgrade lathes.

A collet holder to hold workpieces and mandrels makes things a lot nicer.

One thing I really suggest that can add a whole lot of options is to get a tap that matches the spindle. Beall Tools sells them for example. Just drill a hole, tap it and thread the workpiece onto the spindle. You can also make your own faceplates.

The tools you show look "ok". Another source of inexpensive turning tools is Penn Industries. I have a small size set from them and they are nice.

You also want a drill chuck on a MT#2 taper for the tailstock.


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## MonteCristo

Good speed control is key on a lathe, especially if the initial piece is out of balance. For small stuff not such a big deal but then you'll want to be able to spin it pretty fast, especially when sanding, because the small diameter translates to relatively slower surface speed.

For detailed work, a set of small turning tools is nice to have. Big tooling would be a waste on such a small lathe.

There are some amazing options these days for holding the workpiece, but if you are mostly doing "between centres" or "spindle" turning, you won't need most of them. Scroll chucks, vacuum chucks, spigot chucks . . . are for so-called "faceplate" turning (making bowls and the like).

A lot of cheaper lathes come with pretty poor spur centres. A good one is worth buying.


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## HorizontalMike

I'm listening guys… Trying to look these things up online so I can better understand what these accessories are and do.

*I will UPDATE / EDIT the OP to show a running tally above.* Keep the suggestion coming! I sure appreciate the input!


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## HorizontalMike

_"...After using mine for a while, 1/2 hp is under powered for anything bigger than pens in my opinion. I would have just gotten the HF 12×33 lathe with at least a 3/4 hp motor if I was doing this over…."

Hey Crank (the other Mike ), At this point if I turn nothing bigger than roughly 4×4, will I be OK with 1/2hp?


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## dkirtley

The spindle in the lathe headstock that the lathe comes with is not changeable. It has a thread on the outside (1"x 8 threads per inch) and a tapered hole down the middle (Morse Taper #2). The one on that lathe is the same size as mine (HF 12×33.) I don't have a chuck for mine either and don't feel like I am missing anything. If you get a larger lathe in the future, it will most likely have a different size thread and taper. A good chuck is a major investment and a cheap one is not worth having. Wait until you are sure you are going to live with this lathe long term before investing.

Since the spindle has a thread on the end like a bolt, you can screw things onto it. That is where you would screw on a chuck. You can also just thread a piece of wood and screw it on directly. If you want to turn a bowl for example, you can have a piece of wood that is a bit longer and just drill a small hole and thread it and bolt it directly to the spindle rather than hold the wood in a chuck. You can also mount things like sanding disks and buffing wheels on it. Yes, you can even use it to sharpen your lathe tools. If you wanted to, you can also make attachments to do other things. This is how a Shopsmith works. It is just a lathe with bolt on attachments.

You can put something small in the headstock on the drill chuck but more importantly, you can put it in the tailstock with a drill bit and drill holes in or through the workpiece. If you want to drill a round mortise or open up a piece to turn something hollow, you can just stick a drill bit there and have at it. Another way to drill through is to use a hollow center (a turning center with a hole in the middle) and pass the drill bit through the tailstock. This is how you can drill through like for passing a wire through a lamp.

The collet holder is a nice addition but down on the list. It is nice that you can grip small things (like up to 3/4 in) but more importantly, you can turn a small 3/4 tenon on something and hold it (and take it off and put it back on without it getting too off center much more easily than any other way (including a chuck)

The small tools are nice but a luxury. You can do some pretty detailed turning with normal size tools. (Please note I took the high road and didn't expand on this with an analogy) 

More power is nice but if you don't have enough power, take lighter cuts. Human powered lathes put out much less power and turn some pretty big things.


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## crank49

Depends on the wood to some extent; maple is way harder to turn than fir, for instance. 
And the type tools you are using; scraper, gouge, skew etc.

First piece I turned was a little minature baseball bat from a piece of maple (old table leg) I just had laying around.
It was about 2" square when I started and that was hard to do. I keep stalling the machine.
It was fully dried as well since it was recycled wood. Once I got it rounded out with a gouge and scraper and then figured out how to run the skew I was able to make the shavings fly pretty good.
Right now I have a piece of green cherry on the chuck and it's about 4" diameter and that is all that little machine wants.

Perhaps a better quality machine would not stall as easily as the HF machine. I can't say. This is my only reference. But, from an engineer's perspective, the watts of this machine are typical of other 1/2 hp machines so I don't think it would make that much difference.


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## HorizontalMike

David, 10-4 on the Chuck At $40 it does not break the bank, even though it may not go with a larger lathe. I really don't see me and a bigger one anytime soon. At least two to three years out.

Crank,
Table legs, chair spindles, and hand plane knobs is more than enough to keep me busy for awhile. All of those are in that ~2in range that you mention. Sounds like I should be able to pull it off if I am careful about wood choice.

QUESTION FOR ALL: Still looking for an economical sharpening system. I do all of my hand plane blades by hand via "Scary Sharp" method. Do I really need a powered sharpening system for the turning tools? Or just a bit more sweat equity?


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## moke

I have both the Delta 46-460 and the Rikon 70-050. Both are on the manufacturer stands and wheels. The Delta has the bed extension and the stand extension. I have turned mostly pens, acrylic and segemnted, and using mostly the Delta and the Rikon is used some for drilling pen blanks but mostly for a three wheel Beal Buff for acrylic pens.

I do turn some bowls, pepper grinders, and occasional project in conjunction with flatwork….ie: spindles.
I have found there is a substantial difference in a 1 hp (Delta) and 1/2 hp (Rikon), the chief difference is it is easy to stall the 1/2 hp. Keep in mind my Rikon I bought as a second lathe for 199.00 with free shipping from Woodcraft. It is the Economy version….no variable speed at all and 6 (I think) speed changes with the belt. 
This is what I have noticed as differences…..the Rikon head and tali stock is not co-planar. I have shimmed, and filed some on the tailstock and it is now co-planar but requires constant manipulation of the shims as I move the tailstock. The belts are harder to change, not so much for me as I have to move it to different position in order to utilize it and it is very accessable to the rear of the machine. If you were to put it against the wall it would be harder by a fair amount. The 70-100 may not have this issue, but it would cetainly bear some investigation. As mentioned above the stand is a good addition, and well made, but will add no storage, as a shop built cabinet would.

I am certainly not advocating the Delta….it is a great machine but I have some misgivings on what is going on with Delta right now. But I will say, there is a substantial difference in the two machines, one only needs to turn one on and listen to it to tell. The Rikon is louder, "rougher", the location of the controls on the Delta are just better designed, but the Rikon is certainly very useable and for it's price is far superior to many mini and midis out there.

As far as tools and sharpening goes, start with a kit, find out which tools you like the best and buy Sorby or Benjamin's Best tools as you go. One key suggestion I would have is investigate how to make your own tools that have inserts. You seem more than able to research and make most anything you want, maybe work your way into make some carbide insert tools. They are awesome, but they are pricey.
Sharpening has it's own learning curve, with many toys to buy and who knows what is the best. I have been turning 10+ years and have many different systems and I am just as confused as to which one is better as I was when I started. Replacable insert tools eliminate your need to have sharpening system, so may be cheaper in the long run.

I have a collet chuck and while it is very useful in pen turning I am not sure how useful it would be to turn spindles. There are now very affordable jaw chucks, even some under 100.00. Woodcraft has some great buys.

The one thing you will experience with a lathe is it is very different from any flatwork you have done. It is addictive, and expensive as you buy more attachments and toys!! I have to say, I have had a lot of fun making things I thought I would never make!!


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## dkirtley

I use a belt sander for my sharpening.

That kind of chuck is nice. Only bad thing is that the chuck is longer than a keyed chuck which can be a little problematic on a short bed lathe. Not a deal breaker either way. When I was cautioning about buying chucks, I was talking about this kind of chuck: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2005199/4174/teknatool-supernova2-chuck.aspx They get really expensive when you start getting jaws and such.

Tap handle for tap would be useful. http://www.bealltool.com/products/threading/wrench.php

Also, take a look at Beall's website for other stuff he has. Everything that I have bought from him is high quality.

These are the small tools I have: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCMINI2.html

They also have some HSS tools a lot cheaper than the ones at Woodcraft: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCHSS8.html

This is their collet holder: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCDOWEL.html


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## HorizontalMike

Moke,
Thanks for confirming my thoughts on the collet holders being too small for my needs/goals. At least for now, they are on the back burner. Those carbide insert turning tools look pretty neat. Much like my carbide inserts on my Grizzly Jointer.


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## HorizontalMike

David,
Nice stuff on Beal Tool. I do have a tap handle for a set that I currently own, but will be aware of any future needs. I have often thought of a better handle as you depict, but have gotten away with my little Crapsman set for a number of years… ;-) I DO appreciate the forethought in hitting ALL possibilities. Many miss that.


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## RussellAP

Couple of things Mike as a new lathe owner myself. I found that everything under the Delta 46-460 is basically the same lathe. This Rikon has better capacity, but it's underpowered and doesn't reverse.

Listen man, take my word for it; you want variable speed control and reversing motor. If you don't buy it now, in two months you'll have that Rikon on the market and you'll be getting the delta.

Also figure in about 100$ for a chuck and about 85$ for chisels.


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## TheDane

Mike … I went through a similar process two years ago. I finally decided to ante up the extra money for a Delta 46-460 with an extension bed. I have never looked back.

I have not used the Rikon, but have used similar lathes at seminars and trade shows and there is no comparison … the Delta is, hands down, a superior machine. IMHO, a machine with a 1/2hp motor just isn't going to develop enough torque to handle bigger spindles or bowls.

The reversing/electronic variable speed system is a real life-saver for sanding and finishing. I bought then PSI Utility chuck, and have a Woodcraft grinder with a Wolverine rig for sharpening.

I have turned bowls up to 12", 10" platters, pens, ornaments, and a baseball bat and have never felt that the job was too big for the Delta.

-Gerry


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## mojapitt

Glad you posted this. I am also considering taking the plunge with a small lathe. 6 months ago I didn't think I would ever say that.


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## HorizontalMike

I appreciate the feedback Russell, Jerry. I have always been there, arguing for bigger and better so I truly understand. I do not like being on the bottom end of the food chain when it comes to new toys, however, it appears that that is where I have found myself.

I need to hear the truth, so keep it coming. I do appreciate it…


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## HorizontalMike

Welcome back Monte, you have been playing with your icons/avatar lately… huh?


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## davidmicraig

The Rikon has excellent reviews and would have been my choice for a mini-lathe. Bowls and hollow vessels are not impossible on this and I watched a wood review where they tried to stall the motor by taking a big cut in Cherry, much larger than they should have, and it didn't stall. Don't under-estimate the ability to turn anything that falls between the center points. So definitely look into a chuck. All add ons should be transferable if you ever decide to get a bigger lathe.

If you go with the worksharp, I would recommend the 3000, instead of the 2000. The 2000 only has one angle in which to grind when using the chisel holder and the flexibility is not there. I freehand the chisels on the top. I am not a sharpening guru, but a friend I used to turn with (jockmike2) would give me some chisels to sharpen for him from time to time. This surprised me because Mike had a good grinder and was way more experienced in it than I was. If that tells you anything. Stumpy has a video on making a table for the ws3000 to expand the usefulness to plane blades as well. This would allow you to "scary sharp" your plane irons, chisels, and turning chisels rather quickly. Much more versatility for the money.

With tools, I would suggest checking out Benjamin's Best at PSI. Rather solid chisels, not on the expensive side, and fairly well reviewed. I would recommend not getting an extensive set, as you just want what you use and I would look at Sorby as interest in different turnings come up and you want to add on with individual chisels.

Hope this helps,

David


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## grub32

I have this lathe and make a lot of similar things that you want to make. This little sucker is super heavy. If you plan on moving it after mounting it on a stand, it will need wheels. It is 100 hundred pounds with the bed extender.

Not trying to dissuade you, this thing rocks. I have used both the delta and this one. Very similar in quality.

If you don't buy the VS delta, the rikon is easier to change belt positions to change speed…it's quite fast.

As for tools…I have many makes of tools…the Benjamin's best from penn state are a great starting tool. I have several crown and pinnacle from woodcraft that I like. The sorby tools that I have are great, really hold their edge but many of their tools are the price of this lathe used.

I have the wolverine grinding jig. It is good…a bit of a learning curve with the fingernail grind.

Best of luck,

Grub


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## JollyGreen67

Mike: I had a Rikon 70-100, nice lathe but, wished I had gotten the veriable speed Delta - bigger horses. The local turners club here is replacing their Jet's with the Delta's. I would suggest a chuck with removable insert, so it can be used on a biger lathe in the future, and true, they are expensive but, you will have them on hand for a larger lathe. The PSI set is a great starter kit - remember - High Speed Steel is High Speed Steel is High Speed Steel, no matter who sells it.


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## moke

Mike, 
As you mentioned, I think the inserts are exactly the same inserts as on your jointer…While there are several different configurations, 2" and 4" radius, round and triangular. I have never made one myself but literally I have seen guys make them tools out of HF pry bar tools. I am sure you can do it….one fella I talked to made it with just a grinder and files. I bought a couple tools from a guy on a Pen site, but he has just had a fairly serious heart attack and I would assume is out of business for a while. He makes several tools called "woodchucks". They are great. I use both the 4" radius and the round for bowls. If you decide to try to make a tool PM me and I will have more info for you.

I bought a Steelex set to start with. I think it was around a 100.00. I still use some of the tools. My friend, started with the HF kit. He too has moved on but still uses it some and made some nice stuff with them. A lot of great turners use skews a lot, particularly for table legs and such. A decent skew is going to be around a hundred dollarson it's own. The steelex or HF kit will serve as a good learner for sharpening too. I wouldn't go hog wild just yet. Your family will have x-mas presents for a long time to come.

I bought some DVD's and learned what I could from them, since I have met some really good turners. Practice is what it takes. I am by no means good, but I am learning, start out with maple and make nothing in particular except wood chips….and have fun!!! I look forward to seeing some results….
Moke


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## waho6o9

http://eddiecastelin.com/products_and_services

Carbide cutters at a reasonable cost.

Good thread Mike, thanks, I'm learning on a HF 14-40 lathe and
I'm enjoying this thread as well.


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## MNgary

Don't overlook the Jet 1236 with a 3/4 hp motor. They are around $800 on sale. I've turned 8 inch diameter vases (walnut) and 10 inch diameter bowls (vaious woods) on mine.


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## crank49

That Jet 1236 with the 3/4 hp motor is the one the HF 1236 is a copy of. That's the one I wish I had started on, instead of the little 10-18.


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## HorizontalMike

David C. -10-4 on the WS3000 instead of 2000. I have held back on buying ANY power sharpening and have sharpened my chisels and planes by hand. Not that hard once you have them initially sharpened. I've thought about a slow speed grinder, but they are much more $$$.

Grub-I have a large Rubbermaid cart that I move my horizontal mortiser around on, that would be perfect for the 70-100. This old man's back learned that treat quickly! *;-)* With regards to the Wolverine grinder, do you use any of the "additional" accessories with this grinder, or is the basic grinder complete enough for most sharpening in your opinion?

Jim-Got any links to "...a chuck with removable insert…"? Just in case I do outgrow something like the 70-100.

Moke-I do like the idea of making carbide inserts and own tools, but should probably stick to the basics at first. "...The steelex or HF kit will serve as a good learner for sharpening too…." Absolutely should remember this one! No sense screwing up the good ones while "learning"!

*3/4hp* -Jet 1236 ($899.99)... hmm… OR the HF 1236 copy ( Sale: $269.99 )...
Somehow I knew this was going to happen… *;-)*


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## PurpLev

I'd forgo the "mini tool set" - I have a mini tool set and it doesn't give you the control and firm grip a larger tool set does.


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## RussellAP

What PurpLev said. HSS is a good brand, so you have to sharpen them more often, at least they're easy to sharpen. I love my set. Cost is about 100$.


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## waho6o9

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCVERSA3.html

Versa chisel on sale, woo hoo.


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## RussellAP

Waho6o9, I just ordered the two Versa set last night. 30$


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## HorizontalMike

"...I'd forgo the "mini tool set" - I have a mini tool set and it doesn't give you the control and firm grip a larger tool set does…."

I was thinking about that aspect and kept going back and forth on suggestions/choices. Thanks for stating the reason so clearly.


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## RVroman

Hi Mike,

This lathe has some great features with the indexing, head and tailstock taper, spindle size, etc. The speed range is good as well. The one thing that would concern me about it is the motor size. While 1/2 hp will probably serve you well for a while, it would probably not be too long before it is not enough. Personally I would not consider any machine with less than 3/4 hp.


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## waho6o9

Thanks for the friendly tip on the Versa Chisel Russell.
I'm eyeing a set as well.
The 3 chisel set looks like a winner.


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## HorizontalMike

Robert,
Yeah, the 1/2hp issue does seem to keep coming up. Something to consider though. What I am hoping to accomplish with this thread is to get a good handle on what it will/would take in real $$$$ to get into turning.

So far, with the Rikon 70-100, it looks like the initial outlay of funds will be around $800 or so. And that appears to be with just the most basic tools and accessories. This is all good stuff to know!

Keep checking the bottom section of the OP to see an ongoing tally of items and cost.


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## RVroman

LOL, you are absolutely correct. The cost of accessories will far outweigh the cost of the lathe, no matter what lathe you buy.  You can accessorize yourself to death if you are not careful, and may end up not using a lot of those things.

I think you are taking a great approach in first determining what you want turn. Then purchasing a lathe (with room for growth) and accessories for that purpose. You can add other accessories when/if needed. I have a few things I "just knew" I would need, or was convinced I would need, and I have never used them. (i.e. bowl scraper, internal shear scraper, gimmick center finders, etc)


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## ChrisK

http://www.ptreeusa.com/edirect_121112.htm

Check these out for carbide cutters.


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## waho6o9

http://www.motherearthnews.com/multimedia/image-gallery.aspx?id=69382&seq=1










Now there's a thought, make your own.


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## RVroman

^^^ - Ok, now that's cool!!


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## RussellAP

Mike, for chisels I'd stay with steel over carbide. The advantages are that they sharpen easier even though they need to be sharpened often, all chisels need to be sharpened often though, carbide is just harder on your gear. The only carbide I'd use is for interior of a vase or something that has a limited access hole. Then you need a small tip on an elaborate neck and carbide works well. 
HSS uses M2 steel which has a Molybdenum base for high speed, which means it won't break down under heat by friction as much as A2 steel will.


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## HorizontalMike

Yeah Russell, I think HSS is the best plan for me to start out with.


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## HorizontalMike

So I guess the bottom line is that I (you) need to buy a/the Rikon, Jet, etc instead of the examples LIKE the HF knockoff models, because of a history of poor steel and the easy stripping of bolt holes and such. And that much of these issues affects accuracy in in the long run.

IMO, I think this thread has served me, and others, is establishing what it takes as a MINIMUM, to get into turning. Things could be a bit more and things could be a bit less, however, IMO this looks like a fair estimate of what it takes to BEGIN ones journey into "turning" as we know it. Thanks for all those who took part an who offered their input.
Michael


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## JollyGreen67

Mike:
www.woodturnerscatalog.com has chucks that are available with different size inserts - plus - they are reversable, as in able to be run in reverse without spinning off the lathe.
www.pennstateind.com, (PSI), has their own inexpensive brand (Barracuda) of chucks. From what I can read in their cat, don't know if they are reversable. Also, do not know how good of a chuck they are, as I haven't seen any reviews. Maybe some LJs know. They are all dedicated 1×8tpi but, PSI has adapters to fit larger drives. They also have good inexpensive HSS lathe tools. High speed steel is high speed steel is high speed steel.


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## TheDane

rosebudjim-I have the PSI Utility chuck … no complaints. It is a tommy-bar operated chuck (no key/wrench), and I never run it in reverse unless I have the tailstock up to support the workpiece.

-Gerry


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## JollyGreen67

Gerry - I have two Nova 1×8 mini-chucks with 1-1/4×8 inserts, operated with the tommy bars. They will spin off in reverse, so I am trying to figure out how to tap threads for grub screws to prevent spin-off. Maybe tap the insert and use blue Lok-tite on the chuck to the insert. Any ideas? Also have two 1-1/4×8 SuperNova2 chucks that came with the anti-spin-off grub screw in the insert.


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## RVroman

Rosebudjim, I am not familiar with the mini chuck as I only have the G3 and Super Nova2, but if they use the same inserts as those two you can get 1-1/4×8 TPI inserts with the set screw to keep it from loosening in reverse.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage2.aspx?id=2005199&ProdId=2288&>


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## lumberjoe

I went through this not too long ago and a lot of your questions were covered already. After literally months of research, this is what I decided on:

Unless you get a variable speed lathe, get the HF mini lathe
It's as good as a belt change mini lathe gets. I got mine for a little under 150 with coupons. I mostly turn pens and bottle stoppers, but have chucked up some pretty large pieces of black locust for a mallet and wasn't wishing for more power. The swing on the Rikon is larger, but at 1/2hp, you are pushing it with the 10" swing on the HF lathe as it is.

Chucks - hands down the best bang for the buck is the Barracuda2 from PSI

Turning tools. The woodriver set is ok, but not 110$ better than this set (the ones you posted are NOT HSS). These are really good tools! You can also practice sharpening and changing grinds (I like an elsworth grind) without worrying too much about ruining tools. I do not like the "mini lathe" tools. For me anyway, a full size tool is much easier to control - especially when (not if) you get a catch.

These turning tools are not the absolute greatest, but as I mentioned they are every bit as good as the woodriver. Once you figure out what tools you really use a lot, you can replace them one at a time with higher quality ones made with exotic metals that hold edges much longer, or go the carbide insert tool route.

Also get a live center set. These are really handy to have. The nova is on sale right now. I have this and really like it.

Again, I have done TONS of research before I made any purchases. I have also spent many many hours at my lathe. There isn't anything I wish I had done differently. If I were ever to upgrade my lathe, it would be the Delta midi lathe purely because changing speeds with belts can be tedious. I have found the sweet spot for both turning and sanding so I don't change speeds that often.


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## lumberjoe

Mike, one addition. With the worksharp (if you go that route) you will still need a jig holder and either to Tormek or the Jet gouge sharpening jig at an expense of another ~150$ for both. You are a handy guy. Get a slow speed grinder and a wolverine style jig (woodcraft has a package with both), or make you own jig. Mine took me all of 20 minutes to make and it works perfectly.


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## hairy

I get slammed when I say this, but here goes.

I wish that I had started with carbide tools, such as EasyWoodTools, when I started. 
I'm using them as an example, you can save money elsewhere, but their quality is excellent.
They all use the same tool presentation. Cutting edge at center height, tool flat on the rest. Each tool in a set of gouges, skews, scrapers et al is used differently. Bigger learning curve.

A few carbide tools is cheaper than some sets of turning tools. Sharpening tools have their own got to have accessories.

After you have some success, you will want gouges and skews and the rest, but you will know what you want, why you want it, and how it will help you. You will also probably save some $ by buying smarter.

The old timers learned how to with what they had. Times change.


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## TheDane

There is an article in the current (December 2012, Vol 27, No 6) edition of the American Woodturner (AAW publication) that details converting a Harbor Freight belt sander into a sharpening system.

The HF sander ( Combination 4" x 36" Belt/6" Disc Sander - Central Machinery - item #97181) is on sale at HF for $80. The author of the article says it can be done for less than $100.

I have not done the conversion, but it looks pretty straightforward. A guy in my local club (who is a production turner) doesn't even own a grinder … he has been sharpening with belt sanders for many years … and says this is the way to go.

Just food for thought.

-Gerry


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## Danpaddles

Lots of good info on this thread. I can only add a couple of snippets.

If you do not want to turn bowls or platters, you can probably skip the tap for a while.

Skip the HF turning tools, go for the bigger Benjamin set instead.

You will need to sharpen, but the Work Sharp might be overkill. (Unless you want it for other stuff-). As mentioned, a belt sander works (keep it clean!). Or look for a cheap bench grinder on CL. Lathe tools do not 'burn' as easy as knife blades, due to steeper angles and beefier profiles. And HSS is, I think, not as sensitive to temperatures either.

On the stand- build your own. I ended up doing so much to my Ironbed stand, I might as well have just built one. And think a lot about how high you want it, I really like having my lathe 6 inches higher than originally intended.

I'd skip the collets until you have a need. But keep a few bucks aside for extra/ better spur drive and live center.

Then, get ready to start making handles for your files! Great practice.


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## JollyGreen67

RVroman (Robert) - The only problem with the Nova minis, they are direct threaded 1×8 so an insert is impossible. What I should have said is, I have an adapter 1×8 to 1-1/4×8. The problem is, how do I keep the mini attached to the adapter when reverse turning? My Nova2's have the 1-1/4×8 insert, so no problem there.


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## RVroman

Ah, that would make it difficult then.Tapping the insert and putting in a set screw, as you mentioned, is the only option I can think of.


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## JollyGreen67

I'm going to try the blue Lok-Tite thing, I'll let you know.


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## HorizontalMike

Joe,

Nice price on the Barracuda2, I think the chuck will be a later addition when experience dictates the need.
The 8-piece HF turning tools ( Sale: $67.99 ). I'll remember that one.
Also, a live center sounds like a needed feature. Does the Rikon 70-100 NOT come with one?
Nice WC Woodturner's Sharpening Kit!

Hairy,

No complaints about carbide turning tools other than the price, for a beginner's initial lathe setup.

Gerry,
I don't have any *"current"* WW magazines, but probably have everything from ~1985-2000. A couple of years ago I was given someones lifetime collection when they passed (8-10 milk crates full). I probably have 2 full crates on just Turning. I have not taken the time to peruse them as of yet, but will if this purchase comes to fruition. Can you PM/email some details on this?


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## CharlieM1958

Mike, I have the Rockler version of that lathe. I do a lot of small bowls (6" diameter or less) and it's got plenty enough power for that.

You mentioned table legs, and you mentioned turning nothing much bigger than 4×4. The main factor is the weight of the piece you are turning. Put a 6" long hunk of 4×4 on that lathe to turn a vase and you'll be fine. But put on a 30" long 4×4 to turn a table leg and you'll be grossly underpowered.

Also, I can't imagine having to get by without my Barracuda chuck system and a couple of EZ wood tools.


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## HorizontalMike

Any thoughts on this $50 HF 30 Piece mini lathe kit?
http://www.harborfreight.com/30-piece-mini-lathe-tool-kit-3448.html


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## dkirtley

Mike, that is gear for a metal lathe. About the only things you might find useful are the calipers.


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## HorizontalMike

Thanks David. Nix on that kit, but will keep eye out for calipers at HF, HD, etc.


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## HorizontalMike

David,
Found calipers on the HD site. It looks like each are around $30 or $90 for the lot. Hmm… That HF set for the metal lathe is almost half the price even if I don't use the cutters. Has anyone purchased the Harbor freight version in the past?

Home Depot

General Tools 12-1/4 in. Outside Caliper $27.97
General Tools 12 in. Inside Caliper $28.97
General Tools 12-1/4 in. Flat Leg Divider $29.97

Harbor Freight version

30 Piece Mini Lathe Tool Kit $49.99


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## dkirtley

I have the HF kit. You can pick up cheaper calipers than those at home depot. You can also just cut some out of plywood.

Here's some on Amazon for $7.25 for a set: http://www.amazon.com/Silverline-Spring-Calipers-3Pce-180Mm/dp/B001C7P2SA/ref=sr_1_fed0_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1355413160&sr=1-5&keywords=spring+caliper


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## RVroman

Take a look at these…..

http://gladstonetools.com/calipers-and-dividers.html>

"http://gladstonetools.com/6pisetforwo.html": 6 piece set, $25, will do about everything you need for spindles

"http://gladstonetools.com/305-0008.html": 5 piece set, $45, 8" calipers

"http://gladstonetools.com/305-0012.html": 5 piece set, $60, 12" calipers

I have made a few orders from gladstone (both calipers and gouges) and have always been satisfied.


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## moke

Mike I think you will have to go far to beat the prices in the Grizzly catalog. They have good prices on some sets, a nice digital capliper, and while you are at it order the shop fox 24" ruler with the handle on it for your flat work for 15.00!!!


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## HorizontalMike

Great links guys! And I hadn't thought about Grizzly either!

Boy! I sure hadn't expected what looked to be a sub-$400 entry price point to turn into a roughly $1,000 entry level ticket. Not sad about it at all, but this information is truly needed by us who are looking/contemplating taking the plunge into turning. Time to start rolling all the change in the coin jar for sure.

*;-)*


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## HorizontalMike

I managed to get the better half into WC today and we actually talked about lathes! We spent over an hour there and she even left with a smile on her face. I'm workin' it! We'll see.

All this talk about the Delta 46-460 and a full 1-hp, for under $700, had me spinning in circles. Am I correct that all the ancillary accessories that I have listed above would remain the same, other than extensions and stand?

Hey Gerry, I picked up a copy of the December 2012 Woodturner Magazine and that HF belt sander conversion looks like a winner.


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## RVroman

Funny you should post this, I was planning to post today to ask how it was going. Yes, you are correct, everything you listed would be applicable to the Delta. However, if you can swing the Delta you would probably be much happier in the long run.


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## TheDane

Mike-Yup … I have the Delta 46-460 and the advice/accessories discussed in this thread would be applicable to it as well.

-Gerry


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## HorizontalMike

Gerry: "...There is an article in the current (December 2012, Vol 27, No 6) edition of the American Woodturner (AAW publication) that details converting a Harbor Freight belt sander into a sharpening system. The HF sander ( Combination 4" x 36" Belt/6" Disc Sander - Central Machinery - item #97181) is on sale at HF for $80. The author of the article says it can be done for less than $100…."

*OK, the slippery slope is beginning.* I just ordered this HF Belt sander on sale and using my 20% OFF coupon. Total charge is $76.13 delivered. The $7 shipping is less than half of the gas charge for driving to HF to pick up, so saved there as well!

Now to make the conversion when it arrives. That buffing wheel conversion will come in handy on my chisels and handplane blades as well. Until now, all of that was by hand.


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## TheDane

Mike-Keep us posted! I haven't pulled the trigger (yet), but my latest 20% off coupon expires tomorrow.

I need to figure out a source for the 5/8" arbor.

-Gerry


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## HorizontalMike

Yeah, THAT is why I decided to jump on it as well.

As far as the arbor, I have found these thus far in my search. BTW shipping costs more than the arbor ;-):

http://www.amazon.com/Eazypower-Adaptor-81042-Pulleys-Transmission/dp/B000BPOOII/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1

http://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Die-Casting-6066-Motor/dp/B000BQPHO2/ref=pd_cp_hi_3


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## HorizontalMike

Gerry,
Got on Amazon and ordered the arbor, buffing wheel and polishing compound (and got FREE shipping). While not the cheapest , for each individual item, the savings from NO shipping charges more than made up the difference. Totaled out at $26.05 before my State's sales tax.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQPHO2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004RHB4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD35C/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02


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## RussellAP

I've got one of those sanders. It's good for small stuff. Don't think it will spin fast enough for a buffer though.


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## HorizontalMike

Russell,
I am thinking that if a 6in wheel runs too slow, then an 8in wheel will surely do the job. And you can get the 8in wheel for anywhere between $5-$15. I don't think this will be a problem especially with that 3/4hp motor. Worse case might be forced to add a 1/4-1/2in shim below the entire unit for clearance, if needed.

FWIW, from the images in American Woodturner about this mod, I think an 8in buffing wheel may fit without any modifications. Good point about RPMs though. Thanks.


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## HorizontalMike

Well I finally took the plunge! I watched used Lathes on CL for some time and decided on NEW. The Rikon 70-100 looks like a fine mini-lathe and I almost pulled the trigger on that, however seeing that the Delta has a 1hp motor that is variable speed and reversible, that pretty much ran away with the race. Looks like a 10-14 day wait for it to get here. Maybe that will give me enough time to get most of the repairs done on the Harley, from being rear-ended. Things are starting to look up, no cancer, insurance $$ to fix the bike, AND a new toy on the way! Cool!

I cannot thank you all enough, for the great and varied advice on everything from tools to buy and use, to the essence of what a lathe should have/be to begin with (obviously so that I won't necessarily end up in the the upgrade cycle TOO quickly). *THANKS TO YOU ALL!*

**

*Delta 46-460 WINS!*
Beats the Rikon 70-100 by an additional half a Horse (power, that is)

Got what I feel is a great deal from Acme Tools in North Dakota:


Lathe w/Stand = $679.98
Lathe Extension = $125.00
Lathe Ext. Stand = $69.00
FREE Shipping
NO Sales Tax


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## TheDane

Mike-Congrats! You will not be sorry.

-Gerry


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## RVroman

Congrats and enjoy! I think in the long run you will be much happier with this lathe.


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## mrg

Mike happy turning. The Delta is a nice lathe.


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## waho6o9

Congratulations Mike, have fun turning!


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## HorizontalMike

Thanks guys. I am really looking forward to this addition to the shop.

FWIW, I am managing to pay for this by doing the Harley repair labor myself, the labor portion pays me to fix and then I still have enough for the parts and the fender paint job. Nothing like turning a lemon (getting rear-ended) into Lemonade ** At least it sure makes me feel better (less angry) about getting hit in the first place. And the back pain,... well… let's just say that I'll be alone in the shop where no one can hear me B&M-ing. In the long run I will be able to look back at this whole thing and smile. **

And remember! NO Cancer diagnosed!


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## donwilwol

congrat's all the way around mike. I'm glad i came across this post. I am getting the itch to upgrade the old craftsman.


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## pendledad

Congrats Mike. I look forward to seeing your future projects. Also thanks for a great detailed post of your thought process along the way.


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## moke

Mike,
As I said previously in the post I have both the Delta and the Rikon….not that the Rikon is a bad lathe, because it is not, but the Delta really is far superior. You will not regret your decision. I have that very setup on my lathe…except I have added wheels to the whole thing. The bed extension is also a great place to attach things…the Rockler lathe tool table…the magnetic attachments for tools and spray cans, and a power strip. Even if you never turn anything that long it is still a great addition.

I am an avid Acme shopper, the guys there are all very good to me. I had a small problem with the tailstock originally, and they exchanged it immediately with one out of the box. When you get it, you might PM me and I will walk you through how to check to see if it is co-planar.

Now hang on, because the price of accessories will dwarf the cost of the machine, it will just be 100.00 at a time. Have fun!!


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## live4ever

Congrats Mike. My 46-460 is on the way as well. I got a G3D chuck to go with it and am skipping traditional tools and sharpening for the time-being. Went with the Sorby Turnmaster. I was originally contemplating Easy Wood Tools but the TM is more flexible it seems.


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## HorizontalMike

*"...Now hang on, because the price of accessories will dwarf the cost of the machine, it will just be 100.00 at a time…."*

I think many of us call them Harley Dollars (high dollar) from another money hole hobby… *;-)*

Anyways, as it stands at the moment, I think I will be starting with more inexpensive tools in order to hone my sharpening skills with the soon to be converted HF belt sander-to-sharpener. Of course all this gets scheduled around the upcoming bike fix. Oh, and I have a 7-drawer Shaker high chest completely built that is only lacking a final sand and Shellac, that is on hold as well. Hey, at least I now have an agenda. Much better than the past couple of months for sure. Somehow, this is much more comfortable than the past. I think my mitersaw is going to get booted to "mobile" status with the new lathe coming in. Ah… finally I have a crowded shop…


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## derosa

Check out the newest fine woodworking mag, the one with the bed on the cover, inside it goes over the basics of how to sharpen 4 of the chisels and a few other lathe tools. 
Also nice looking buy, wish mine had an extra 1/2hp.


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## HorizontalMike

While I am waiting on my new Delta Lathe, I have been busy paying for it by doing most of my Harley repairs myself so that I could use the insurance labor reimbursement (for my being rear-ended) to afford the new lathe. As you all recall, the accident was the other guy's fault, so this is where I get to make lemonade out of lemons and get me a new WW toy **

Psycho with a Grinder! *;-)* Do notice the SHAKER chest in the background. This chest only needs a final sand and Shellac finishing to be completely done/built. I'm trying to get the Harley fixed and on the road again, before finishing my latest WW project. Almost there!









Makin' sparks, BUT USING my WW workbench! I had to cut out the 4×5in slot for the relay box, since this is an after-market fender that covers a wide range of model years. HD quit making parts for this bike several years ago so I am forced into using this after-market stuff.









Test-fitting raw fender before sending off to painter. Want to make absolutely sure this thing fits BEFORE it gets its paint, for sure…









FINAL test-fit. *AND LOOK!* I used wooden dowels while test-fitting! Does THAT count as WW-ing? **


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## donwilwol

you won't find those pictures in to many woodworking magazines Mike. Way to advance the cause!!


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## HorizontalMike

Yeah Don, sometimes WW-ing takes the strangest turns… *;-)*

But to be honest, this is what it takes for me to afford an new WW-ing toy. At least it is an honest path to WW-ing.


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## HorizontalMike

Just got a shipping notice that my Delta 46-460 shipped today, 1/7/13, from ND. Looks like it is coming FedEx. As always, time to cross fingers and hope for smooth roads and competent drivers *;-)*. I am hoping that they will have me pick it up at the FedEx Terminal so the delivery ninja can't beat it up on the last leg of the trip.

I also got my HD fender off to the painters this morning. Things are looking up. **


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## HorizontalMike

It's HERE! I have not had a chance to set this thing up yet, just enough time to get it out of the box and do a visual inspection. No damage noted visually! Cool!


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## pendledad

Excellent! Look forward to seeing the setup and first uses. Enjoy!


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## donwilwol

I'm a little envious Mike. Not so far as hoping that somebody rear ends me on my bike(its January in the NE, so that's not going to happen anyhow), but still a little jealous.


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## HorizontalMike

Yee Haw! It works! Knowing absolutely nothing about what turning tool does what, I picked up a 1in skew (the only one that I have cleaned and honed) and spent some time making a square piece scrap Ash round. Geez I was tense! Gritting my teeth and tensing my face and arms!...

*}:^(*

Anyways, I have started the process and we are off to the races. Someone needs to tell/advise me on technique and such. I don't think the chips/dust I created looks like what I see of others and such. PLUS, need to know what speed for what diameter, wood, etc.

FWIW, I have the Benjamin's Best HSS 8-Set and their 3-Set of Versa Chisels. Don't know what is what, OR what does what. So advise is more than welcome! **


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## TheDane

Mike … The fun is only starting.

Wait until the first time you are running at 4000rpm and get a catch with that skew … just make sure you have some clean tighty whities on hand!

If you haven't already found him, Eddie Castelin ( http://www.eddiecastelin.com ) is a great resource. He has 100+ YouTube videos available, does a twice-weekly live podcast, and actually answers the phone if you call him.

-Gerry


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## HorizontalMike

Yeah. Capneddie is a great source of information. How about some basic information on what tool to do what task and such? I am definitely ready to have some fun, for sure!


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## moke

HMike-
Glad to see you have put that motorcycle aside and are having some REAL fun now!!! Just kidding…what ever trips your trigger. The "skew" seem to be to be the hardest tool to get used to. It definitely is a "white-knuckler" when you start with it. It looks to me as your tool is too low to use a shew correctly. Try going to you tube, as I recall there is a number of good videos. I elected to buy a bunch of videos, which working out well for about 50% of the dvds. There are a number of videos just about using a skew.

When using a skew the tool must ride on top of the piece and only using the botom half of the cutting portion of the tool….you'll get it. At first maybe try a gouge to round off. You are approaching this correctly…don't make anything yet except wood chips. This is pretty much unlike anything you have done in woodworking so far.

If you intend on putting the whole thing on wheels it works well, but requires some modifications. I am only 5-8 so it ends up too tall for me with 2.5" wheels. As you can see it is difficult to move around now. If you intend on getting the extension for the stand and lathe, maybe wait until then.
Have fun…..
Mike


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## live4ever

CONGRATS! Mine arrived as well and i can definitely relate to the TENSION.

moke - I'm also around 5-8 and was planning to use Footmaster leveling casters under this thing (with ext. and stand ext.). Seems I'll need to cut an inch or two off the top of the stand legs? Any tips?


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## HorizontalMike

Well hey guys, we are all in the same ballpark as I am 5' 9" and I have the lathe in the "center" height position because I wasn't sure where to start.

I also would like any links and recommendations for casters. FWIW, my lathe legs do NOT splay )-( like the older ones, but are still T'd at the bottom so the lathe set like this |-|. I surely do NOT want some mobile base frame tripping me, so I am assuming where the bottom foot pads are can be tapped or something?

WOW! I just checked out a youtube video on how-to-use a skew chisel and YEP, I was NOT doing it correctly at all! Time to regroup here. Glad I did not get hurt doing it the way I was attempting.

Today I am planning on finishing up my belt-sander conversion to belt sharpening system. Gerry and I are each doing this conversion and it looks like a winner. Will keep ya'll posted. I finally have stuff to get done in the shop!... Gone for a bit.


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## Darell

Hi Mike! I've been followiing this thread since the beginning. I think you've just got yourself a great lathe. I've turned on one at a friends shop and it seems to be a darn good lathe. As for the rest, I would suggest going to the AAW website, https://www.woodturner.org before you do anything else and search for a local woodturning club. I know Texas is full of turning clubs. Find the club closest to you, get hold of them, attend a meeting and you'll find all the free advice and help you'll ever need. If that turning club is anything like the Central Oklahoma Woodturners Association that I belong to, and I believe they will be, there will not be a shortage of folks willing to help you out. Joining the COWA is the best thing I've ever done as far as turning. I've attended the SWAT Symposium (Southwest Association of Turners) in Waco the past two years and have met a bunch of Texas turners. Many of the members of my club are good friends with many Texas turners and from what I've heard and seen myself you won't regret getting in touch with your local turning club. That's the best advice I can give you. Oh Yeah, welcome to the turning addiction.


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## moke

Hmike,
Wow you are right, those are not the same leg configuration as mine, but that might be better. I stand off to the side sometimes and the splayed legs are kind of in the way, this way you could stratle the legs and be more comfortable. I was going to tell you about how to get casters but my info may be dated now, but on mine there is a nut spot welded/tacked on the inside of the leg. I figured out what size the nut was ….and called caster city and told him the size and reach….he found me the cheapest, best set for my scenerio. I had them in less than a week. I feel that my lathe is too tall for me. The casters while 2.5 inches raise the lathe 3 inches or so. The claim is the the tool rest should be at the crook of your arm. Mine is about 1.5" too tall, so I turn on two mats and it is sort of inconveniant. I have plans to chop off the top of the legs and drill a new hole and mount in lower, but if I upgrade and sell this thing that will limit who I can sell it to. So I have been hesitating.

Your sander/grinder should work well, but sometimes until you figure things out there is always the old water stone….I used that for a long time at first. I even have used sandpaper nmounted on a ganite piece with good success on skews too….

As far as using a skew wrong, believe me that is some of the least of the stuff I did wrong!!!

Darell-They call your turner group SWAT?...in WACO? Really? lol
Mike


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## moke

I failed to mention, the next thing you should do is put a spur drive in the head stock and the live center in the tail stock, and push them together to see if the points line up perfectly. This is called checking for co-planar. You will note there is some "play" in the tailstock, from side to side. That play is common in a wood lathe, but not "up and down". 
I have to push on my tailstock so it is all the way on the back side of the ways (rails). And then I am perfectly co-planar. This is really only realavant if you are turning small items (pens) or using some sort of a mandrel. Try that and see how it is….
Mike


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## Darell

Moke, SWAT is an organization comprising wood turning clubs in Arkansas, Oklahoma and Texas, based in Waco where they hold an annual turning symposium. www.swaturners.org. I belong to the Central Oklahoma Woodturners Association, www.okwoodturners.net, based in Oklahoma City, Ok. Yeah, I know, you're just yankin my chain. Thought I'd put the webiste here for anyone who's interested anyway. LOL


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## TheDane

I'd also like to put in a pitch for AAW (American Association of Woodturners). They offer a tremendous amount of resources through their website and have a first-class journal that comes out six times a year.

There are over 350 AAW chapters (see: http://www.woodturner.org/community/).

In many cases, local clubs (like the one I belong to) require AAW membership.

-Gerry


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## Oldelm

Congrats Mike. I have had some thoughts about doing this also. Looking forward to seeing you progress in your journey. You are so good at telling it like it is, it should be a great adventure.


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## HorizontalMike

Mole, I just checked for co-planar and UP/down is perfect and side-to-side is off by ~1/4mm when loose but I can shift and snug to the backside, like yours, and I get a perfect fit. Good to know this. Thanks.


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## moke

Sounds like you have no problems, that is just like mine. Just get into the habit of pushing it back away from the ways when you tighten the tailstock…..


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## robdem

Mike would like to thank you for starting this thread .Just pulled the trigger on the 12 20 jet lathe last week when jet had there 15% off sale . Have been reading your thread to get more info on what I will need . Never thought I would buy a lathe . I'am lucky to belong to club here in Long Island that has a great group of turners for me to to pick there brains also going to enjoy this new part of the hobby.


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