# Clamp design



## Jaepheth (Jan 15, 2013)

Trying to design a vise for my workbench.
Does anyone see any glaring flaws with this design?
Does anyone have recommendations on improvements?


















(not pictured are a second set of nuts beneath the angle bar inside the vise, or I may thread the holes in the angle bar)

The jaws are 16" wide and should have around 11" of travel

I assume 3/4" pipe clamps are inherently stronger than 1/2 clamps due to the larger diameter?

And in case you're wondering, I do have a 1/2" 20tpi die I'll use to thread the end of the rods.

If the clamp's clutch is too hard to reach I may add a lever that extends out towards the floor.

Credit to 'Sparky' for the pipe clamp model.


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## CplSteel (Jun 22, 2012)

I built a lesser version of that and it was a pain to use. Is this a front vise or an end vise? The build looks like a front vise, but the layout makes it look like an end vice. My recommendation depends in large part on the intended usage.


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## Jaepheth (Jan 15, 2013)

It would be an end vise. What made it a pain to use?

Though I'm not really clear on the differences between a front vise and end vise other than their position.
End vise is for clamping boards flat side up and front vise is for clamping them edge up?

I'm trying to build a multipurpose vise, but I suppose it'd be primarily for holding boards for planing.

---
For fun, I also designed a sort of block and tackle vise:









I think in theory using a bunch of pulleys and cable to tighten a vise would equalize pressure along the length.
But it's probably outside my ability to attempt to build at this time.


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## Jaepheth (Jan 15, 2013)

Would it be better to just have a single row of holes and a narrower, less complicated clamp setup?


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

One thing that would make it a pain to use is the 20TPI threading. That would mean 20 full turns to move one inch.

Instead of a pipe clamp consider replacing it witha 1" treaded rod with Acme treads @ 4-5 TPI.


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## MNgary (Oct 13, 2011)

Very innovative. I like it.

You may want to consider using a pipe clamp that has a small crank instead of a pin. You can get them from Sears or many other places. I find the pins very uncomfortable when tightening.


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

I never quite got the appeal of making a vise out of pipe clamp. Is it to save money or because you particularly like that design? It seems like it would be a pain to use, as CplSteel noted.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Dallas I think you can buy a vise for the price of acme threaded rod. Isn't the reason for building your own to make it cheapr or better? I have priced threaded rods in the past and theacme threads were not cheap. They are strong though. One place to look for acme threads is in a car jack. back in the bumper jack days they made a
tri-pod jack with a long threaded rod. I doubt there are any of those left in the world today. No bumpers either.


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## Ripthorn (Mar 24, 2010)

It depends on if you have all the materials on hand or not. If you don't and you have to buy the clamp and the oak (presumably from a borg), then you are going to spend almost as much as the Lee Valley economy face vise, which I have and quite like. Of course, if you're all about using stuff you built yourself (or you have all the parts lying around), then you can go for it and it should work, though there may be some frustration involved with the clutch on the clamp.


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## DonBroussard (Mar 27, 2012)

I like the idea. I would suggest using a 4" or 6" handwheel on the pipe clamp to speed opening and closing and to torque down of the clamping pressure when needed. As LJ Dallas pointed out above, the 20 tpi could be a pain, but you should be able to get close to the project piece with the pipe clamp's quick release before applying the clamping pressure. Also, and I think you have this covered, but make sure your 1/2" steel guide bars aren't directly below your dog holes-that could create a conflict. Good thinking and nice Sketchup!


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## rockindavan (Mar 8, 2011)

I think you are trying to reinvent the wheel on this one. Your design is similar to what is out there right now, and I have a feeling it won't work as slick as you hope it will. I wouldn't use a pipe clamp as you wouldn't get as much clamping strength with the little pin and you will have to reach under to pull the clutch. I would use bushings for the rods instead of just going through the wood. Everything has to be concentric with each other and perfectly parallel or it will bind. Good luck if you plan to go this route.


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## Jaepheth (Jan 15, 2013)

I have the wood on hand. I think I can buy the rest for ~$30 retail.
If there's a pre-built vise that'll give me nearly a foot of travel (after accounting for jaws) for that price then I haven't seen it.

The 20 TPI is just at the last inch or so of the guide rods and after they're locked into place they don't move. 
And the actual pipe clamps I'm considering do have a crank as opposed to a pin.

Another design I'm considering is mounting a scissor jack to the table and fixing jaws to it somehow. Not sure how it'll be with racking and wouldn't have a quick release, but a lot less precision would be required in construction.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

Grandpa, 
A 3' piece of 1" Acme Rod is about $26 on eBay. I say some awhile back for 3 pieces of 1" for $18. Nuts were running about $10 for 5 of them.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

That isn't bad. I priced some from MSC machine supply once. That was 30 years ago and I nearly had a stroke just from looking. I have never bought any or even looked for it on eBay. I made some hand clamps back then and had to have half of it in left hand thread. MAybe it was the left hand acme that was so expensive. Thanks for clearing my mind.


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## CplSteel (Jun 22, 2012)

Pipe clamp vises are a pain because of the clutch and limits, or difficulties, in keeping the pipes co-planer. Basically what Rockindavan said. As a tail vise you don't need that kind of width, it can work against you. You also don't need that kind of depth of travel. If you want 10" of travel make the rear jaw 9" deep and put dogs at 1" and 7" and with 3" of travel you have 1-10" of space. Clamping to dogs spaced every 8" on your bench gives you all the distance you want. The downside is weight and alignment difficulties which is why a narrow deep vise is usually used on the tail.

Another idea is a modified Moxon vise. Basically get rid of the center pipe clamp and put screws on the sides. You can do this with pipe clamps as well but the screws are easier.


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## Jaepheth (Jan 15, 2013)

Revised design for tail vise:









All non-metal parts are built using 3/4 inch thick red oak laminated together.
Now only 3 inches wide with 9 inches of travel. It'll use 18 inches of 5/8 diameter lead screw. Since this is my first time building a vise, I'll start with standard 11tpi threaded rod for cheapness, but should be able to easily upgrade to 8tpi ACME threads later.

There's enough room beside the screw to drop in a 2×4 or 2×8 to work end-grain, and I'll have a block I can drop in to use it as a regular vise for miscellaneous work.

Instead of a straight rod I'll probably put a knob on the turning wheel.

I'm wondering if the guide rod is necessary? So what if the vise end spins, I should be able to line it up before clamping, right?

In y'alls opinions, would this be an improved design as a tail vise?


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## Jaepheth (Jan 15, 2013)

Here's a design based on CplSteel's recommendation:










This one has 6 inches of 5/8 lead screw (red), and should have about 3.5" of travel. Not shown would be a coupler that connects the lead screw to an unthreaded length of rod that runs the length of the moving part (dark brown) to a hex nut (green) that I can fix a wheel to, or use a socket wrench on.
I would probably also add a track for it to run along either on the bottom or sides of the moving part.

This one doesn't really have much use as a standard vise, but I think it'd require the least amount of precision in making.

EDIT: On the first revision, I suppose I could cut a horizontal slot above the lead screw and put in a paint stick to both cover the screw and act as a guide.


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## Jaepheth (Jan 15, 2013)

Ok, Unless someone tells me that the first revision is best; I'm going to plan on going ahead with CplSteel's suggestion. This is how I plan to build the innards of the vise.









I added a pair of 1/2" rails. They'll be waxed and won't be fixed to either body (Or will that create binding?)
The blue hex nuts are pinned in place on the rod. One externally for cranking, and the other internally, centered between the dog holes.
The Coupler will be fixed within the table top so that when turned the screw and moving jaw move together.

Will that work? Would it work without thrust bearings if I just lube the washers?


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

Question:
Wouldn't you be better off leaving the inner nuts floating on the threads and epoxied into place on the frame, then have the coupler pinned to the threaded rod so that rod moves in pulling the face of the vise with it?

My rationale is that with the threaded rod hanging out from the vise you are creating a hazard to yourself by getting it the way of free movement.

With the rod moving into the frame and the bench it is always out of the way.

YMMV, Objects under Tee shirt may be larger than they appear, Handle with care!


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## Jaepheth (Jan 15, 2013)

Not sure I follow.

This is what I'm going for:









So the moving part of the vise needs to stay on a fixed position relative to the screw.
There'll be a constant 4" of screw sticking out of the box which when closed is buried under the table surface.

I went with this design so that when it's closed the table won't have any surface missing (except dog holes).
Are you saying to keep the table and screw in a fixed relative position while the vise head moves?


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## CplSteel (Jun 22, 2012)

There are many ways to skin this cat. I like where you are going (maybe because it was my recommendation). I would add guides, the square dowels above and below, so any clamping pressure that would lift or twist the vise is reduced or stopped. With one screw you have just one axis so I see twist as a real issue but it is easily overcome. If you have angled dogs it probably won't be a problem, but for the effort, I would put some guides down below as well.

Instead of square dowels/lip/lap/rabbet I would go with sliding dovetails (which is totally unnecessary but it is where my mind went) or a sexy way to do it would be T-Track grooves with Bolts riding in the grove which could be individually adjusted to take out any play and it gives you more wiggle room on the cuts. That is, you could cut tracks in your vise, and have them slide along bolts in your bench. If there is too much play, or it is too tight, in any given spot, you can screw the bolt in or out. Depending on your build, the front side may not be deep enough to adequately secure bolts, but if you make that side a track/groove as in your design, you can put bolts on the other side (width ways away from the front of the bench) to make any minor adjustments. Depending on the wood you use, you may want to insert an aluminum T-Track instead of routing your own because of wear issues. I have no idea how real this concern actually is, just a thought.

As for the overall design, I do not see any problems with what you have laid out, but I am not the world expert on reading plans. I would err with another blue nut- the more alignment options, the less it can deflect. That said all of your alignment should come from the rails, hence the above bolt suggestion.

Other ways to skin this cat, for reference only take a look at the bench-crafted tail vise and this one

The only other change I would offer is, like the benchcrafted vise, if you have your ends fixed nothing sticks out and greater support is obtained because the screw is fixed, only the vise with dogs slides. Of course you would have to rethink, slightly, your support system for the rails, but the change probably makes everything easier.

My best advice is KISS. 
Please keep us informed about the build. I think it would be great to hear what went wrong and how you fixed it. (because something always does)


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