# Handy tools



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Miter Jack*

A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?

For those who aren't familiar, a miter jack is basically a vise with angled jaws. I've read of ones that have both 45 and 60 degree angles, but the one I found on eBay just had 45 and 90. That's probably just as well. I don't plan on making hexagonal boxes. And the 90 will mean I don't have to dig out my shooting board as often.










This morning, while waiting for oil to dry on another project, I set it up and took it for a spin. I clamped a piece of ½"x6" poplar in the jaws, got out my jack plane (pretty sure the jacks aren't related) and started removing wood.










It works pretty well. One thing I need to watch out for is some spelching if I don't chamfer the far end, but that mostly gets trimmed away when I get down to level with the jaws. The other is that if I'm not paying attention, I can end up planing off a bit of the miter jack, which might change the angle from a perfect 45°︎ over time. Shouldn't be too tough to avoid though, and I can see where previous owners have dinged up the jaws a little.










But if I do my part, it looks like creating near-perfect miters is pretty easy. Here are my two test pieces of poplar, just standing up next to each other on the bench. That's a good enough miter that I should be able to make a nice box corner with almost no extra tuning. And while it's basically just another configuration of shooting board, having it be a vise means that I don't need a bunch of extra hands to hold the piece I'm working on.










Finally, my square says that's 90 degrees. It's just the photograph that looks a little off because of the extreme close-up.

Bob Summerfield wrote a good post on sharpening a saw for use with a miter jack


----------



## PoohBaah (Mar 8, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


That is an awesome addition to the shop Dave. I really need to look into getting better with hand tools. I have a few planes but always struggle setting them up and tuning them to be effective.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


As long as the planes have got mechanical adjusters, the biggest thing is getting them sharp. I find it pretty easy to tweak the adjuster to get the thickness of shaving I want, but if I have to tappy-tap with a hammer, I'm sunk.

If you need to practice, use poplar. It's cheap, and pretty damned friendly to hand tools, in my experience. Pine is a pain in the ass because of the varying hardness between early and late growth. Oak has huge pores that make it a challenge. Poplar is just a darned easy utility wood.


----------



## duckmilk (Oct 10, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Those are really cool devices Dave. Thanks for posting some pics.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Glad to, Duck. When I first heard about them, i was trying to figure out what they looked like and there weren't a lot of pictures of them showing how they worked. And they're pretty dang cool, I think.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


I give you a lot of credit with your adventurous road on hand tools. Never too late to learn and they give you a good feeling. These days for me are whatever is the easiest. haha. Fine job on the miter.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave. I sometimes think about easier ways. Looked at bandsaw prices for a while the other day, after some particularly gruesome resawing misadventures (the board was too wide for my frame saw so I had to use a bow saw, which wandered) that'll cost me about half the wood I could've possibly gotten out of a nice piece of white oak.

But I'll hang in there, and keep learning new things. I've got an idea for something I want to try for the box swap that's turning out to be a real challenge. I figured out how I'd do it with a router in minutes, but I'm still stuck on exactly what I need in a jig for an all hand tool approach. Oh well, that's what plan B is for. And the miter jack will play a big part in plan B.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Dave, have you thought about a mitre jack saw and a mitre plane?


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Kevin, I'm working on a miter plane. Dovetailed infilled brass and steel. Very slow going at this point, as I've plenty of wood projects to keep me busy, but I'll start tongue & grooving the shoe of the plane together later this spring. Still working on sourcing an adjuster, but I think I have all the other pieces parts I'll need.

As for the saw, I've given Mark down at Bad Axe a fair amount of money in the past year, but haven't bought a jack saw. We'll see.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Dave, you have more ambition than I.

My set


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Nice! Looks like they've been used, too.

I'm not sure about the ambition. More likely I just don't know what I'm getting myself into. Or as Red Green says, "I either have a plan, or I'm an idiot."


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


I am a member of the Possum Lodge, have the duct tape to prove it!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Then you are well acquainted with the land of "How hard could it be?" ;-)


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


I sent Mark at Bad Axe an email this morning asking what he'd charge for a plate for a miter jack saw. We'll see what he says. Worst case, I end up ordering a Great Neck off Amazon like Agent Twitch does and attacking it with tools.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


One question to ask is what kind of file/set to use. At one time I think there was a special way to file mitre jack saws.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Yeah, Kevin. My best guess is that it's filed crosscut, and either filed as a flush-cut saw (no set on one side) or the backing plate is thick enough that the set doesn't hit the miter jack. Also flush-set screws on the side that rides on the jack.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Excellent show. I love to see these being used for something besides book ends!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Hey, I didn't think to see if you had a miter jack saw in stock, Don. Any chance you might have such an odd duck laying around?


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...





> Hey, I didn't think to see if you had a miter jack saw in stock, Don. Any chance you might have such an odd duck laying around?
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


no such luck.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Ah well. Doesn't hurt to ask.

Next old tool on the shopping list will likely be a post drill, but there's a guy here in MN with a couple dozen of those, so I'll likely shop locally for that.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


i can find them fairly easy, but shipping would kill the deal, and anybody local can find them as easy as I can. I have two. I have one i need to get cleaned up and working.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Dave, the underside of my saw.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Miter Jack*
> 
> A few months ago, I bought a miter jack, thinking that I would need to be making some 45 degree miters for the upcoming box swap. Since then, I've changed my plans for what I'm going to build (I got better at dovetails, mostly) and might not be doing miters, but figured that I would play with my miter jack a little before I get started on the box construction for the swap. After all, who doesn't enjoy a little procrastination?
> 
> ...


Thanks, Kevin. That's about what I figured. Wasn't sure if it was screws or some fancy saw nuts.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Little froe and doweling plate*

I put a handle on a big froe last year, but I've been wanting to make my own dowels lately, and that's too big for splitting off small chunks of wood for dowels. So I asked my friend Jeff for a smaller tool. The result was this little froe.










When combined with a doweling plate from Lie-Nielsen, I can split a piece of oak or ash off a scrap, run it down the sizes to 3/16" and trim it to length in under ten minutes. I did a half-dozen this evening to peg the French cleat into my rasp and file till in under an hour, and that included the time to drill six 3/16" holes, too.


----------



## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Little froe and doweling plate*
> 
> I put a handle on a big froe last year, but I've been wanting to make my own dowels lately, and that's too big for splitting off small chunks of wood for dowels. So I asked my friend Jeff for a smaller tool. The result was this little froe.
> 
> ...


Sweet! It's nice to have a blacksmith as a friend. I wish I was in closer proximity to my cousin Erin in Maryland … one of the best blacksmiths I know!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Little froe and doweling plate*
> 
> I put a handle on a big froe last year, but I've been wanting to make my own dowels lately, and that's too big for splitting off small chunks of wood for dowels. So I asked my friend Jeff for a smaller tool. The result was this little froe.
> 
> ...


It sure is, Ron. Hope you're enjoying Alaska and getting to see the northern lights.


----------



## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Little froe and doweling plate*
> 
> I put a handle on a big froe last year, but I've been wanting to make my own dowels lately, and that's too big for splitting off small chunks of wood for dowels. So I asked my friend Jeff for a smaller tool. The result was this little froe.
> 
> ...


Oh we did! Unfortunately, we are on our way back … board in forty minutes!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Little froe and doweling plate*
> 
> I put a handle on a big froe last year, but I've been wanting to make my own dowels lately, and that's too big for splitting off small chunks of wood for dowels. So I asked my friend Jeff for a smaller tool. The result was this little froe.
> 
> ...


Safe travels, buddy! Don't need to wave when you go past, we're getting snow here.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Little froe and doweling plate*
> 
> I put a handle on a big froe last year, but I've been wanting to make my own dowels lately, and that's too big for splitting off small chunks of wood for dowels. So I asked my friend Jeff for a smaller tool. The result was this little froe.
> 
> ...


I'll give you a lot of credit for this Dave. That's hands on working. I buy mine. I'm lazy.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Little froe and doweling plate*
> 
> I put a handle on a big froe last year, but I've been wanting to make my own dowels lately, and that's too big for splitting off small chunks of wood for dowels. So I asked my friend Jeff for a smaller tool. The result was this little froe.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave. I bought a hundred 1" long ¼" and ⅜" but I always end up wanting longer or a different diameter. And this way I get to pick oak or walnut or ash or whatever for the dowels. I still use factory ones when they'll work, but I've been building up stock of handmade ones too. The hinge pins in my box for the swap might end up being hand-made.

For me, the journey is a big part of the fun, and even if I don't have time for a "real project" in the shop, knocking out a few dowels when I come home from a crappy day at work helps relax me.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Mirror for cutting dovetails*

As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.

So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.


----------



## Handtooler (Jul 24, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mirror for cutting dovetails*
> 
> As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.
> 
> So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.


Dave, That's a very handy tip! I'm quite sure I can benefit, as well as, many others of us who struggle with the problem.. Thanks.


----------



## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mirror for cutting dovetails*
> 
> As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.
> 
> So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.


Welcome to the club, Dave. YES … this technique has saved a a great many dovetails for me as well!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mirror for cutting dovetails*
> 
> As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.
> 
> So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.


Thanks, Russell. I'd seen this tip around for a while, but until I set it up and tried it, I didn't think it would make such a huge difference.

Ron, I see you went with the fancy adjustable model of mirror there. ;-) One of the things I didn't appreciate when I bought the tilting stand model was just how often I'd be tilting it up and down. I stand when cutting down on the tails, but then sit down on my shop stool to use the coping saw to trim the waste. Gotta adjust the mirror in between those two.

I also seem to have settled on 1 in 4 as my angle, both for hardwoods and soft. Not sure why, but it looks and feels right to me, and since it doesn't matter for strength, I'll cut 'em the way that makes me happy.


----------



## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mirror for cutting dovetails*
> 
> As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.
> 
> So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.





> Ron, I see you went with the fancy adjustable model of mirror there. ;-) One of the things I didn't appreciate when I bought the tilting stand model was just how often I'd be tilting it up and down. I stand when cutting down on the tails, but then sit down on my shop stool to use the coping saw to trim the waste. Gotta adjust the mirror in between those two.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Yes, lean it against the holdfast and use that gnarly black of pine for adjustments … LOL!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mirror for cutting dovetails*
> 
> As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.
> 
> So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.





> Yes, lean it against the holdfast and use that gnarly black of pine for adjustments … LOL!


Yep. Awfully fancy! ;-)


----------



## Kelster58 (Dec 2, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mirror for cutting dovetails*
> 
> As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.
> 
> So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.


That's a pretty cool idea. Would work great for me too…...as long as I don't see myself in the darn thing. It would surely break if my visage appeared in the mirror.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mirror for cutting dovetails*
> 
> As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.
> 
> So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.


Kelly, I'm told that good dovetail cutting form has you able to see both the front and top of the board. That should have you high enough that you won't see yourself. ;-)


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mirror for cutting dovetails*
> 
> As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.
> 
> So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.


Mirror mirror on the wall who has the fairest dovetails of them all?
That's a cool idea Dave. I'll have to keep this in mind.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mirror for cutting dovetails*
> 
> As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.
> 
> So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.


Dave, excellent tip. Thanks for posting it.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mirror for cutting dovetails*
> 
> As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.
> 
> So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.


Thanks, Kevin & Dave. It sure helped me.


----------



## chewy626 (Mar 10, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mirror for cutting dovetails*
> 
> As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.
> 
> So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.


Than is a great tip, I had not seen it before, eager to try it out on the next dovetails.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mirror for cutting dovetails*
> 
> As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.
> 
> So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.


Great tip I use one when I'm using my box cutting jig.
Helps me see where I'm going and how well it turned out.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mirror for cutting dovetails*
> 
> As I attempt to get better at dovetails, one of the things that frustrated me was that I was continually cutting the back side either too low or too high. If I stop cutting to look around the back, I've changed my position, and it takes me a stroke or two to get everything lined up again and *that* can cause troubles.
> 
> So I got a great little tool for $6 at the drug store. A folding stand mirror I can set up behind the dovetail I'm cutting so I can see the back side of the cut without changing position. It's made a huge difference in getting my initial cuts to the line without crossing over.


Chewy & htl, yeah, it turns out that seeing what you're doing helps. Who knew?!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Scratch stock*










Not quite a project, but definitely a handy tool. While making the box for the 2018 box swap, I decided I needed to add a little ornamentation, so I built a scratch stock to put a bead along the edge of some of the pieces. Because there were concave curves to follow, I needed to make the end rounded (I used a 1/2" radius to match the curved pieces I'd made). Then I cut the wood in half, stuck in a piece of steel filed to a profile I liked, and screwed the wood back together.

Here's a test piece I did in some walnut to see if I could follow a curve and to get a little practice before starting to use it for real.










I can pull out the blade and make at least three more profiles on it, and I can adjust it in and out, depending on what I need. Turns out to be a darned handy tool.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Scratch stock*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Agreed, very handy tool. I'd consider it a project, you made a tool. It's functional and works as intended. Nice work.


----------



## ralbuck (Mar 12, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Scratch stock*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I agree.

Great project actually!


----------



## Kelster58 (Dec 2, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Scratch stock*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Definitely a project Dave. I wouldn't know how to make or use such a tool…...I learn more every day here on LJ's. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Scratch stock*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good job, Dave. I like it!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Scratch stock*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks guys.

Kelly, you just pull or push it along the edge of the piece of wood, letting the end of the metal take off a thin shaving every pass. You "sharpen" it by filing the edge square.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Scratch stock*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks to be a handy idea Dave. May have to put this on my list.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Scratch stock*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've got a Lie-Nielsen beading tool that's based on the Stanley 66 already Dave, but that couldn't track the 1/2" diameter corners I wanted to follow. So it's far from an original idea, but it got the job done for me.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*45 degree jig*










I used this shop-made jig while cutting dovetails for 135 degree corners (for making an octagonal box). It's just a piece of 2×4 cut on the diagonal, then glued back together. The piece on the left above slides onto the piece on the right, and then the whole thing goes into a vise to hold the piece you're working on at a 45 degree angle so you can saw on the level while cutting 45 degree angles in things.










I started using it "head-on" but quickly realized it was useful in other directions too.



















Not much to it, but as I've discovered over the past year, 90% of hand tool woodworking is figuring out the work-holding. If you can hold the piece you're working on steady, everything else gets a lot easier, and so it was with this jig.

Thanks for looking!


----------



## RonAylor1760 (Aug 17, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *45 degree jig*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very cleaver, Dave! You are on the money saying, "If you can hold the piece you're working on steady, everything else gets a lot easier." I'm having to come up with some innovated holding jigs myself while I try my hand at carving. Peter Follansbee simply nails his carvings to the bench. I don't think I'm quite ready to do that, yet!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *45 degree jig*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I actually used sheetrock screws (and a cordless screwdriver!) to hold down pieces for the bonus box I built. All the work on the actual piece was done with hand tools, but I was in a hurry, and thought nothing of driving an angled screw into my bench to hold the 1/4" thick pieces in place so I could plane them. Same idea. Get the workholding down first.


----------



## ralbuck (Mar 12, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *45 degree jig*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Neat jig and good advice too! 
I use a weird rack that I made from scrapwood when assembling the rockers for horses etc. I probably made that one 16-18 years ago now. It used swing pieces that I can then tighten the screws and hold the runners very solid while assembling the cross pieces.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *45 degree jig*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good thinking out of the box.


----------



## mikeacg (Jul 4, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *45 degree jig*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I like it! You might make a hand tool guy out of me yet Dave!


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *45 degree jig*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I like the way you come up with way to make life easier. Way to go Dave.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *45 degree jig*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks guys. It wasn't so much about easier as possible, Dave. I don't think I could've cut eight corners worth of dovetails without having a major mistake without the jig.


----------



## Kelster58 (Dec 2, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *45 degree jig*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very cool, Dave…..You never cease to amaze me…....


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *45 degree jig*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, Kelly! Some days I amaze myself, too!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *45 degree jig*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I like it Dave, in fact I like it very much, mainly because it gives you the ability to hold material at an angle of your own choice, not just 45 degrees.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *45 degree jig*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Agreed, Robert. 45 degrees is probably the most challenging angle, and if it works for that, I can almost certainly construct a version to hold material at any angle I need. Of course there are modeling vises that pivot any which way, but for my needs, a jig like this plus my existing vise work well.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Octagonal Guillotine*

While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.



















The results were good enough that I used them on the top of my box straight off the guillotine.










It's a useful tool, and now hangs on the wall, waiting for my next octagonal project. If I ever do a hexagonal box, I'll build one for cutting 60 degree angles.


----------



## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


Neat trick. Thanks.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


You're welcome, Gene. It took me an hour or two to build it, but once I did, cutting the pieces of banding went fast. And taking a 1/32" off the end after I'd made my initial cut too long wasn't too hard. Well worth the time spent building the tool.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


Haha, that's a good one Dave. Simple yet effective.


----------



## davesimian (Feb 16, 2017)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


Ingenious


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Daves. Think I stole the idea from one of Paul ( shipwright's ) blog posts, but I'm not certain.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


.... and I stole it from someone else Dave. 
not much new under the sun. 
The important thing is it worked for you.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


Figured as much, Paul. Can we blame Roubo or Moxon? ;-)


----------



## ralbuck (Mar 12, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


Triple success.

Cost effective

Functional

Satisfaction of doing the build of it!


----------



## Kelster58 (Dec 2, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


Dave, you are one amazing dude! Thanks for sharing!!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Ralph & Kelly. As Paul said, the important thing is that it worked.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...





> Thanks, Daves. Think I stole the idea from one of Paul ( shipwright's ) blog posts, but I'm not certain.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Dave the minute I saw it I thought of Pauls how2 as I had questions about it's construction.
It's so cool when we need something to get a job done and can look back at all the many tips that are offered here on LJ's to get the job done.
We may no even remember where the hint came from but the seed is there to be used.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


Exactly. I may not ever build models like you do, but I've had a couple "ah-hah!" moments while reading your construction blogs and applied those tricks to my world. You use a disc sander to sneak up on a perfect fit. I use a block plane or a spokeshave in similar cases. The idea of switching tools to something that offers more precision was helpful.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


I'll have to give the idea and thank's to Dutchy who really helped up my model making game big time.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


Yep. The ideas spread from one lumberjock to another. And it seems there's alsways some new trick to learn.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


Dave ,
Nice work,
Your Jig is certainly producing unexpected results, I did not think you could use them straight up without preparing the edges after cutting.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Octagonal Guillotine*
> 
> While building my box for the swap, I wanted to put some banding around the top of the box. This would mean cutting the ends of the banding at 67.5 degrees (90 - 22.5), and I figured I was unlikely to get that uniform with a saw, so I built a guillotine for cutting that angle. I used a couple scraps from around the shop, a hinge from the hardware store, and the blade from a utility knife.
> 
> ...


Robert, thanks! I wasn't sure if I might need to plane the ends, but as long as the blade is sharp and the banding in good shape, I can just rap the arm with a mallet to get a clean cut. Now that it's heating up and getting more humid here, I might get slightly fuzzier cuts. Then again, maybe it will still work well. I'm hoping to get a little shop time this weekend again.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Post drill*

I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.

Anyway, yesterday morning I headed up to Siwek Lumber bright and early and came home with four "stud grade" 2×6x104" studs. Screwed one of them to the wall of the garage, resting on the sill plate, and with a half-dozen deck screws going into the stud in the wall. Then screwed two more to that, so I have a rectangular post firmly attached to the wall of the shop.

Then I got my neighbor's son to come over and help mark where the holes for the post drill needed to go, and after I drilled two pilot holes, he helped hold it in place while I got the screws in. Once the top two were in, I drilled the holes for the other four and popped in the bolts and it's ready to go.



















I need to pull out one of the set screws in the handle which is stripped and drill and re-tap that before I do any serious work with it (the handle can bang into the gear behind it when it wobbles), but that should be a relatively quick job.


----------



## ralbuck (Mar 12, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


When I was very young that was the only drill we had beses a bit and brace. Electricity did not come to our area of western ND until fall of 1953!

So I have used one like that many times. I was going to check if it was still in the old garage about 20 years ago; but the lean of the building and the windy day made it look very dangerous. They did work well and as long as you had sharp bits could drill even heavier steel fairly rapidly too.

I think that you will use it a lot. Good Score! 
Tool rescue is a good cause also!


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


Awesome! What I did in the meain time with the handle was just to make sure I pulled away from the drill press while I turned the handle lol I might have to come visit that guy from time to time


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


Yeah, Mos. That's probably what I'll do, but I'd rather get it fixed sooner rather than later. And yeah, if you need, just let me know.

Agreed, Ralph. I've mostly been getting by with a bit and brace or a small eggbeater, but there's times when I'd like to make sure I'm drilling straight, and this should take care of those cases for me.


----------



## treg (Jun 5, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


Great looking piece Dave…that thing is a treasure!


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


Nice addition to your traditional woodworking paraphernalia, great trade. It drills straingt and the best part, it's variable speed.


----------



## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


Infinitely variable, from 0 to as-fast-as-you-can-crank lol


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


That drill looks familiar Dave









I chose to stay with the original chuck and it's taken a few years to collect a full set of bits. Mios sent me one of the first.


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


talk about super cool tools only thing it needs is a place for chuck key to hang VERY COOL :<))


----------



## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


Nice set up Dave. Glad you and Mos worked out a trade so you can continue to use it. There is something special about how the old tools look compared to the modern ones. Maybe it is all of the curves or the solid steel construction but whatever the special magic is, I really like the look of old tools, especially ones that work.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


Thanks, guys! It's pretty dang cool, and now I'll need to make a rack to hang next to it for the bits and chuck key. After I fix the handle.

There's a guy in the western Minneapolis suburbs who has a ton of them (more than 40) if any of you are so jealous now that you simply must have one. https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/tls/d/vintage-post-drill-presses/6670870627.html


----------



## duckmilk (Oct 10, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


Nice!


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


That is so cool Dave. I do bet it will be handy in a few situations. Great trade off.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


Got a vise for the table on it today and used it for real for the first time. Works great!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Post drill*
> 
> I got a post drill a while back. Traded Mos a spare laser engraver and some pictures of dead presidents for it. If you don't know, a post drill is basically a hand-powered drill press, and I've had a few projects where such a thing would be handy, especially since I haven't managed to find a completely straight 3/16 or 4/16 auger bit yet.
> 
> ...


The post drill continues to prove useful. Here it is meeting late 1990s spinning rust technology.



















I think the drive has been safely wiped now.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Knife making tools*

I've been making stacked birch bark knife handles lately, and found a couple tools that made the process much easier.

Note that the basic tools needed are something to cut the birch bark to size (unless you're buying stacks from Russia, which are a pretty good deal, but a little short to do a complete job), and something to scrape the papery bits and any fungus off the outside of the bark. A card scraper will do just fine for the latter. You'll also need something to put holes in the bark. I use a leather punch. It works pretty good, but about every three or four pieces of bark I need to clear it out, since the bark doesn't fall out the way leather does.

As you're stacking the bark pieces on the handle, you want the holes to be big enough that you're not splitting the bark, but tight enough that the bark stays in place. Near the blade, this means punching three overlapping holes using the middle size on my punch, then two overlapping holes using the middle size on my punch, then finally a single hole using the next smaller size on the punch.

I put a handle on a piece of 7/16" tubing so I wouldn't beat up my mallet when hitting it. It also got a screw-eye so I can hang it up when I'm not using it.



















Every dozen or so pieces of bark, I'll slide the tube over the knife tang, then give it a good whack with the mallet to push everything down tightly. It gets me a tighter stack, which means less fiddling around later.

Partway through building the stack, I'll take a break to thread the end of the knife tang. For the mora 120 knife blanks I will use a 10-32 die, followed by a 8-32 die, and I thread the last 1/4 inch of the tang. That seems to be plenty. I use a stack of a 1/4" washer, followed by a 1/4" copper washer, then a #8 washer, followed by an 8-32 nut.

After I have built the stack, but before I put on the washers and nut, I will press the stack, and bake it for 2 hours at 225F (110C). I use a couple pieces of scrap wood with some all-thread and washers and wing nuts as a press. Baking the bark will soften up any birch pitch in the bark and glue the stack together a little. It'll make for a nicer handle later.










After I've baked the stack, I can usually put on another six-ten pieces of birch bark before putting on the washers and nut. Once I have the nut tightened down pretty well, I will peen over the end of the knife tang with a ball-peen hammer. Lots of little taps will mushroom the end of the tang and lock everything together.










Then it's time to shape. I use a bandsaw followed by a belt sander.










Hope this helps!


----------



## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Knife making tools*
> 
> I've been making stacked birch bark knife handles lately, and found a couple tools that made the process much easier.
> 
> ...


Very clever way to get a tight stack and a solid handle.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Knife making tools*
> 
> I've been making stacked birch bark knife handles lately, and found a couple tools that made the process much easier.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Earl. I've seen a few different solutions in videos, but these were the spare parts I had on hand. I figure whatever gets the job done.


----------



## Kelster58 (Dec 2, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Knife making tools*
> 
> I've been making stacked birch bark knife handles lately, and found a couple tools that made the process much easier.
> 
> ...


Some of the things you guys get into. Never thought anything about this process. It looks fascinating. Never cease to be amazed by you Dave. Great Job!


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Knife making tools*
> 
> I've been making stacked birch bark knife handles lately, and found a couple tools that made the process much easier.
> 
> ...


If it wasn't for the great results I would say its a lot of work. I'm for anything that makes life easier.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Knife making tools*
> 
> I've been making stacked birch bark knife handles lately, and found a couple tools that made the process much easier.
> 
> ...


I hadn't thought about it either, Kelster. Pretty boring scraping all those little chunks of bark, too. Glad someone finds it interesting. I also ground a smooth curve on the top of my card scraper. I'll add a picture of that soon.

Dave, it *is* a lot of work. But I'm getting better and can now finish two knives in three days of shop time, rather than two days per knife. If I had a cool jig for making octagonal handles I might be even quicker, but I don't yet. Plus, I think I prefer oval handles. But I may have to make one of these octagonal so I can compare.


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Knife making tools*
> 
> I've been making stacked birch bark knife handles lately, and found a couple tools that made the process much easier.
> 
> ...


dont have a tool to make the job easier make one *GREAT JOB :<))))*


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Knife making tools*
> 
> I've been making stacked birch bark knife handles lately, and found a couple tools that made the process much easier.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Tony. Might not even be the best solution, but they're working for me.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Knife making tools*
> 
> I've been making stacked birch bark knife handles lately, and found a couple tools that made the process much easier.
> 
> ...


Hi Dave,
Cool tools and ideas.
Interesting to see how it can be done, I had never heard of the baking part.
Best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Knife making tools*
> 
> I've been making stacked birch bark knife handles lately, and found a couple tools that made the process much easier.
> 
> ...


I've had mixed results with the baking, Mads. It always gets the bark packed more tightly, so I think it's worth it for that. And two of the four knives I've made had enough pitch in the bark that the pieces glued together a little. I think this pair will get a good soaking of linseed oil as well, as there didn't seem to be much pitch. But with them tightly packed together, it's still a nice feeling handle.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Knife making tools*
> 
> I've been making stacked birch bark knife handles lately, and found a couple tools that made the process much easier.
> 
> ...


I have never tried one of those handles, I imagine it must be nice and have a warm feel.
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Knife making tools*
> 
> I've been making stacked birch bark knife handles lately, and found a couple tools that made the process much easier.
> 
> ...


Soon you will, Mads. The two knives pictured will be the pair we discussed. Final shaping of the handles will happen this weekend, I believe.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Knife making tools*
> 
> I've been making stacked birch bark knife handles lately, and found a couple tools that made the process much easier.
> 
> ...


Ahhhh now I'm smiling.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*The truck kit*

After a few times going to the resort, or driving down the road and seeing a piece of tree that might be useful, I decided to set up a small kit of hand tools that I would keep in my pickup so I would always have them with me.

This week, I ended up putting that kit to the test, and added a few things to make it a nearly complete (if minimal) woodworking shop on wheels.

Here's part of it:










From top to bottom: a hand screw, because work-holding is the most important thing with hand tools; a pencil; a Big Boy folding branch saw, which is handy for rough cross-cutting; one of the birch-bark handled carving knives I made, with the sheath from MaFe; and a fine (32tpi) gents saw, which is nice for finer cuts.

Not pictured (yet) are a block plane, a hatchet, and a knock-down frame saw.

I'm moving across the country, and the movers picked up the bulk of my stuff he other day, so I didn't have a shop left. And then I noticed that there was a soft spot on the threshold of my side door. When I poked at it with the knife, there was some pretty serious rot. Apparently a boot-heel had chipped the paint at some point, letting water into the wood, and bad things happened.

So I used he folding saw to rough out a scrap of wood. Used the gents saw and knife to fine-tune it, and the knife to clean up the hole. Once I had a pretty good fit, I glued the patch into place and "clamped" it with a couple drywall screws. Split the patch, because I hadn't drilled a pilot hole, because I don't have a drill (will add one soon). Filled the gaps with wood filler, then used the block plane to match the profiles.










Three coats of shellac (wiped on with a rag) later, it's ready for paint. I'm happy I had a set of tools in the truck, and I feel better about being able to do useful work without a full shop. It's not the best repair, but with a fresh coat of paint on it, it'll at least keep the problem from getting any worse.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *The truck kit*
> 
> After a few times going to the resort, or driving down the road and seeing a piece of tree that might be useful, I decided to set up a small kit of hand tools that I would keep in my pickup so I would always have them with me.
> 
> ...


Dave, that's what duct tape is for. Seriously, you did a good job with what you had. Being concerned not to leave it damaged shows you care.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *The truck kit*
> 
> After a few times going to the resort, or driving down the road and seeing a piece of tree that might be useful, I decided to set up a small kit of hand tools that I would keep in my pickup so I would always have them with me.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave. The house was built in 1929, so I feel responsible to keep it in good shape for the next owner. Heck, I had a contractor put all new stucco on it last year because 30 years ago, a previous owner had painted the stucco, trapping moisture in the house, and the metal lath that held up the stucco had rusted.

It'll end up being a couple three hours total for this patch, but it'll mean the difference between needing to replace the threshold in a year or two, vs. maybe twenty.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *The truck kit*
> 
> After a few times going to the resort, or driving down the road and seeing a piece of tree that might be useful, I decided to set up a small kit of hand tools that I would keep in my pickup so I would always have them with me.
> 
> ...


well I reckon that's worth doing a mono in your new driveway to celebrate!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *The truck kit*
> 
> After a few times going to the resort, or driving down the road and seeing a piece of tree that might be useful, I decided to set up a small kit of hand tools that I would keep in my pickup so I would always have them with me.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Rob! I have no idea what you said, but I like it!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *The truck kit*
> 
> After a few times going to the resort, or driving down the road and seeing a piece of tree that might be useful, I decided to set up a small kit of hand tools that I would keep in my pickup so I would always have them with me.
> 
> ...


OK let me explain

1. Your motor bike has two wheels/ yes no?
2. start it up and pop the clutch, this should do one of two things,
2a flip the front wheel up and presto you have mono cycle, or
2b The whole activity results in you lying on the drive way with the machine on top of you, and just by chance this is not the result that was intended!
If you have achieved 2a then ride around on the back wheel celebrating! ... make sure the wife doesn't spring you doing this as she may not see the fun your having as being the behavior of the sensible man she married.

When I was younger I had a Honda 90cc step through of which I loved doing this stunt and showing off whenever my mates came around!

However some 50 years on and I am now afraid that my BMW will just fall on me while I am just trying to move it, let alone even attempt to pull a mono on it!

https://www.wikihow.com/Do-a-Basic-Wheelie-on-a-Motorcycle

AKA a wheelie!

Have I told you about the donuts I used to do in my Ford Zephyr Mk II ? another youthful activity which usually resulted in ripping the side walls out of the retreads tires … alll I could afford in the day !

Lotta fun in those days …now you would get locked up for it


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *The truck kit*
> 
> After a few times going to the resort, or driving down the road and seeing a piece of tree that might be useful, I decided to set up a small kit of hand tools that I would keep in my pickup so I would always have them with me.
> 
> ...


Ahh, mono = wheelie.

When I test-drove my BMW, I looked at the manual long enough to figure out how to shut off traction control. The bike could pull the front wheel off the pavement in all six gears with just application of the throttle (though you need to be going pretty fast to do so in sixth gear), which sold me on it.

Last wheelies I've done, over six years ago now.


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *The truck kit*
> 
> After a few times going to the resort, or driving down the road and seeing a piece of tree that might be useful, I decided to set up a small kit of hand tools that I would keep in my pickup so I would always have them with me.
> 
> ...


Nicely done. I think you deserve to crack open a Hamms for all the hard work. Prost


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *The truck kit*
> 
> After a few times going to the resort, or driving down the road and seeing a piece of tree that might be useful, I decided to set up a small kit of hand tools that I would keep in my pickup so I would always have them with me.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Nathan. I did.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *The truck kit*
> 
> After a few times going to the resort, or driving down the road and seeing a piece of tree that might be useful, I decided to set up a small kit of hand tools that I would keep in my pickup so I would always have them with me.
> 
> ...


Make that another one handed mono with a Hamms in the other hand!

You need a break from all that stressful furniture hauling Dave!

Oh I wonder who else I can go and annoy now!??


----------



## anthm27 (May 12, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *The truck kit*
> 
> After a few times going to the resort, or driving down the road and seeing a piece of tree that might be useful, I decided to set up a small kit of hand tools that I would keep in my pickup so I would always have them with me.
> 
> ...


Nice on Dave, resourceful.


----------



## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *The truck kit*
> 
> After a few times going to the resort, or driving down the road and seeing a piece of tree that might be useful, I decided to set up a small kit of hand tools that I would keep in my pickup so I would always have them with me.
> 
> ...


Did you ever add a drill or any more tools to your truck kit? I drive my truck typically only when I need to otherwise I'm in/on something that gets far better fuel mileage. I would like to put something in there not so much for impromptu repairs but more so for harvesting wood from piles left along the road if/when a tree is taken down.

My SV1000S was too good a wheelies, though it only surprised me unexpectedly once on an on ramp in 3rd gear which I didn't think it would pull the front wheel with me still quite far forward on the tank, and it did. I saved it but my underwear wasn't so lucky. My current Vulcan 2000 can spin the tire at will but at well over the 1/2 ton mark with me on it, a wheelie would be impossible, and that's a good thing!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *The truck kit*
> 
> After a few times going to the resort, or driving down the road and seeing a piece of tree that might be useful, I decided to set up a small kit of hand tools that I would keep in my pickup so I would always have them with me.
> 
> ...


I have a small Fiskars drill with whatever the right size bit for a pilot hole for a #8 wood screw is, plus a box of toothpicks in the kit now. Plus a dozen #8 screws of various lengths. So mine is definitely a repair kit now. The folding branch-trimming "BigBoy" saw is a darned handy thing, though.

With traction control on, my K1600 just takes away some throttle (or taps the rear brake) if the front wheel comes up. With me on it, there's pretty close to a half-ton, and as I said, it can lift the front wheel in all six gears if I shut off the traction control. But it's an in-line six.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Bowl horse*

I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.

The first step was building the horse itself. A couple 4×4s, a 2×8, and a couple 2×4s. I bought the fake redwood pressure-treated stuff at Homer Depot because it was the straightest of the various tubas they had. Course it was basically saturated with water, so it's interesting watching it move as it dries out in the desert air here.

Anyway, I sandwiched the front leg between the two 4×4s, with a piece of 2×4 on either side of it. Pounded some 5/8" dowel into 5/8" holes drilled in the wet wood with an auger bit, and as the wood dried, the holes tightened down around the dowels nicely. No glue or fasteners on that joint.

Next was using my branch saw and a chisel to make mortises for the rear legs. I eyeballed the angles. They feel about right. The legs are screwed on with deck screws.

Finally, I shimmed the bench level, and then trimmed the legs a given height from the floor. Ended up taking a couple inches off every leg, but got the bench sitting level. Then I made a seat.










Then it was time to build the bowl head. I took a couple pieces of 2×8, and sandwiched pieces of 2×4 vertically between the ends of them, and screwed them together with more deck screws. Then I drilled a hole in each 2×4 just below where it stuck out below the bottom of the bench, and carved a wedge by hand to fit in that hole. With both wedges in place, the bowl head is locked to the horse very securely.

I screwed a couple chunks of 2×4 to the back of the bowl head. This forms the stationary part of the clamping mechanism. I'll probably tweak the shape later, but the deck screws come out pretty easy, too.

Then I made the clamp. It's a 2×4, shaved down a little so it will fit freely between the sides. I made a platform for the bottom of it by cutting a 2×4 mortise into a piece of 2×8 and putting in a 9/16 hole. A half-inch carriage bolt slides through to hold the platform on. Then I set the clamp in place and drilled a hole through everything so it could pivot. When I determined that my hole was the right height, I added a couple more holes so I can work on different sized parts.


----------



## DiegoCassels (Mar 6, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Excellent Job Dave!


----------



## oldrivers (Feb 10, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


God job Dave, hope you get your shop set up soon.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Diego! Minimal tools used to make this, as most everything is in boxes until I get the new shop built.

And thanks, oldrivers! The guy from the architecture committee of the HOA is coming by this this weekend to look at the plans. If I get approval, I'll be talking to the contractor on Monday.


----------



## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Woo Hoo! Ride that horsey Dave  Looks good man. Any woodworking is better than no woodworking!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Kenny! I agree. And having this gives me a sawhorse and a low workbench too. Course I know I'm going to get in trouble for leaving wood chips all over the patio at some point, but I'll worry about that later.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Hi there Dave,


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


I have been looking for some designs for your new workshop Dave I will post them as I find suitable ones.

Here is the first to consider.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Rob.

I've actually had plans drawn by a designer. The garage needs to match our house in style and be the same color, so we're pretty limited in our choices.










It'll be a one-car garage and an equal amount of shop space. Roughly 12×24 feet allocated to each.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...





> ..... It'll be a one-car garage and an equal amount of shop space. Roughly *12×24 feet* allocated to each.
> - Dave Polaschek


Not too generous… That sized workshop will limit you to pocket knives… money-pocket sized! At least you'll still be knifing.

*PS.* I see your horse is not house trained… 








already droppings on the concrete.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


We're also limited to 650 square feet. I think mine comes in at 625 (25×25 feet external dimensions).

Yeah, Ducky. Horses leave presents behind.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Nice work Dave. It's great when you build your own tools for the shop. A good way to keep those skills in shape. Perhaps not one of the biggest shops but plenty of room to enjoy what you like doing. You will have a few more sq ft than me and after a few years I got it working well.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave. It'll be enough, especially when the weather is nice and I can set up outside with the bowl horse or low bench and enjoy the weather and the crazy birds (we've got a roadrunner that hunts something in our yard) and such.

I expect I'll be tweaking the setup on the horse over time, too. I already know I need to carve a notch into the stop so the bowl doesn't want to head left or right when I'm working on a side of it.


----------



## adot45 (Sep 9, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Nice Dave…Glad to see you are able to keep busy.
I know you will enjoy your new shop space.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...





> We're also limited to 650 square feet. I think *mine comes in at 625 (25×25* feet external dimensions).
> - Dave Polaschek


So *DP*, you lied about the *12×24*... With the above space you could swing 2 prarrie dogs by the tip of their tails, one in each hand.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Thanks, David.

Ducky, I believe it's a comprehension problem. The building is 25×25, but the shop gets half of that, being 12×24. The other foot is lost to the thickness of the walls, which is mandated to be six inches (or more) by building codes here.


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...





> Thanks, David.
> 
> Ducky, I believe it's a comprehension problem. The building is 25×25, but the shop gets half of that, being 12×24. The other foot is lost to the thickness of the walls, which is mandated to be six inches (or more) by building codes here.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Maths was never my weaker subjects… could not comprehend that lower basic mathematics *TT* (*T*imes *T*ables) without the in-depth of the Einsteinian hyrogliphics I've grown accustomed to in duck class,








So the distance between the prarrie dog's whiskers and the wall is *2x-3y²***2016z* which will give you just enough room to open a small cask of vino…


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Morning Dave,

I have the first part of your workshop roof on the move just need to know where you want it sitting?










BTW I just spoke with Sir Richard he informs me the wing tanks have been fully overhauled and you can store your favorite vino in them.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Just drop it on the prairie dog town east of our house, Rob. Maybe we can squash a few of the little plague-bearing vermin.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


How wonderful, to make a shaving horse, for the time you have no shop.
Fine horse, you will have plenty of joy with it.
I love mine and have taken one of then to my allotment house, so I can touch some wood there also.
Looks like you will get a fine shop, look forward to see what it ends up with.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Thanks, MaFe. The contractor says 2-3 months to build the shop, so I decided I needed something for that time.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


It will bring you plenty of possible projects, I love to work on the shaving horse, so you will have a good time as you wait.
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


Agreed, Mads. I still need to build the dumb head for a shave horse, and make some modifications to the bowl horse head, but I'm already thinking about projects. I think this week I will make my first trip to the good local lumber supplier and see what I find there for ideas. I'm also thinking I might but some piñon firewood for spoon-carving practice.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Bowl horse*
> 
> I moved earlier this year, and it's going to be next year before I have a shop, so I decided to build a shave-horse / bowl horse as a way to keep busy and be able to do some woodworking.
> 
> ...


;-)


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Scrub plane made from a maroon #3 Stanley*

Found a guy on eBay who's got a bunch of maroon #3 Stanley planes he's selling for $37.50 each. They were $31 a year and a half ago when I bought one to try it out. At the time, I flattened the sole, decided it was a cheap plane and if I wanted to improve it, I'd probably need to buy a Hock plane blade at minimum.

Today I decided I was going to repurpose it as a scrub plane. I pulled the blade and walked over to the grinder. I freehand ground something between a 4" and 6" radius on the end of the blade. Between ten or fifteen minutes elapsed. It's not exactly circular, maybe more parabolic from the look of it. Then I spent ten or fifteen minutes sharpening the blade on my coarse sharpening stone and called it good.

I adjusted the frog back a little to open up the mouth on the plane, and popped the blade back in the plane. Took it to the fir 6×6 I'm turning into a post for my post drill, and it does a pretty good job. For a shaving between 1/2 and 5/8 inch (yes, I'm only using between a half and a third of the blade, but it's easy work this way), it's around 1/16 thick, which is how I have my other scrub plane adjusted. It's small enough that I can take off shavings like that for almost an hour before I need to take a break, and on the post, that translated to knocking one of the corners of the post down by 1/4 inch, tapering to nothing at the other end of the 8' long 6×6.

Not bad for about $30 and less than an hour's time. And a lot cheaper than buying a Lie-Nielsen 40½ scrub plane for $175. Well, unless my time is worth more than $140/hour.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Scrub plane made from a maroon #3 Stanley*
> 
> Found a guy on eBay who's got a bunch of maroon #3 Stanley planes he's selling for $37.50 each. They were $31 a year and a half ago when I bought one to try it out. At the time, I flattened the sole, decided it was a cheap plane and if I wanted to improve it, I'd probably need to buy a Hock plane blade at minimum.
> 
> ...


Looks like you definitely got your money's worth on this, could even say it was a steal for that price. Nice tool transformation.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Scrub plane made from a maroon #3 Stanley*
> 
> Found a guy on eBay who's got a bunch of maroon #3 Stanley planes he's selling for $37.50 each. They were $31 a year and a half ago when I bought one to try it out. At the time, I flattened the sole, decided it was a cheap plane and if I wanted to improve it, I'd probably need to buy a Hock plane blade at minimum.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Tom. I thought so too. I even bought a couple more from the guy yesterday, figuring I'll throw one in as a bonus on a future swap or something. And maybe one of them will get a Hock blade and chip-breaker and become my go-to smoother (though I've been using the prototype I made for a previous swap as a smoother lately, and I'm pretty happy with that, too). Who knows, maybe I'll carve a tote & knob and completely customize one, too.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Scrub plane made from a maroon #3 Stanley*
> 
> Found a guy on eBay who's got a bunch of maroon #3 Stanley planes he's selling for $37.50 each. They were $31 a year and a half ago when I bought one to try it out. At the time, I flattened the sole, decided it was a cheap plane and if I wanted to improve it, I'd probably need to buy a Hock plane blade at minimum.
> 
> ...


That makes it a useful tool.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Scrub plane made from a maroon #3 Stanley*
> 
> Found a guy on eBay who's got a bunch of maroon #3 Stanley planes he's selling for $37.50 each. They were $31 a year and a half ago when I bought one to try it out. At the time, I flattened the sole, decided it was a cheap plane and if I wanted to improve it, I'd probably need to buy a Hock plane blade at minimum.
> 
> ...


Yeah Don. I'm glad I figured a use for it. And glad I got a few more to play with. Originally I was just going to scavenge the frog & adjuster out of it for use in a plane I made myself. Might still do that too. We'll see. Fun to play with.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Fixed 3/8" marking gauge*

Simple, but for every bookcase I build, I need to cut a dozen 3/8" wide & deep rabbets. Which means marking two dozen lines 3/8" from the edge of a board.

I was initially using my fixed fence kerfing plane, but then I broke that by knocking it off my bench, which gave me an opportunity to rethink things.

Since I've been practicing turning things with my lathe, I've got a bunch of round things. I took one of them, put a fence on it (another scrap) and then put a brass brad through it 3/8" from the fence.










Now I've got a marking gauge that won't get accidentally set to some other distance, and it fits in my pocket, rather than sitting on the bench where I might damage it. And since I resaw a lot of 3/4" boards into two pieces, I'll probably continue needing a 3/8" marking gauge enough to keep it around.


----------



## WhattheChuck (Aug 26, 2008)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixed 3/8" marking gauge*
> 
> Simple, but for every bookcase I build, I need to cut a dozen 3/8" wide & deep rabbets. Which means marking two dozen lines 3/8" from the edge of a board.
> 
> ...


Nice, Dave!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixed 3/8" marking gauge*
> 
> Simple, but for every bookcase I build, I need to cut a dozen 3/8" wide & deep rabbets. Which means marking two dozen lines 3/8" from the edge of a board.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Chuck. Sometimes it's the simplest things that make life easier…


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixed 3/8" marking gauge*
> 
> Simple, but for every bookcase I build, I need to cut a dozen 3/8" wide & deep rabbets. Which means marking two dozen lines 3/8" from the edge of a board.
> 
> ...


Nice build, now for the big question: how will you sharpen the tip of the pin?, or won't you?

Reason I ask, I use similar marking gauges that I secured from various places, and I'm never completely satisfied with the results, my scribed lines always seem to either follow the grain on the sides of boards, or jump all over the place on end grain.

I've done a little research on this, seems to be as many opinions as there are google finds. I took one of my old marking gauges & adapted it to hold a sharp knife, like an X-acto blade. but trial & error indicates it should only be used across the grain where it works better than a round pin that splinters a board when going across the grain.

So I ask, what is your preferred marking gauge point?


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixed 3/8" marking gauge*
> 
> Simple, but for every bookcase I build, I need to cut a dozen 3/8" wide & deep rabbets. Which means marking two dozen lines 3/8" from the edge of a board.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Tom.

For now, the tip of the nail is plenty sharp. It's a 1d brad (or equivalent) so 3/4 inch long. No modifications from the factory point on the nail yet.

There's enough sticking out of the wood that I'll be able to clamp it with a needle-nose vise grips and file the end sharp if I need to. I figure I might have to sharpen it a time or two before I screw up and bend the nail or lose it behind my workbench. But I don't expect it to get dull very fast since I'm using it on pine. Pretty soft stuff.

The pin wants to follow the grain sometimes when I'm marking the rabbets long edge, but I generally solve that by turning around and marking from the other direction, and that gets good enough. Since I darken that line with a pencil and then cut with a circular saw, a little wander isn't the end of the world.

As for what I prefer, the round discs that are on my fancy marking gauges seem to be the best for all-around marking. Next is a pin. And when marking end-grain for dovetails, I will either use a spear-point marking knife or a pencil. For my pine bookcases, I'm marking all the dovetails with a pencil, and getting reasonably good results.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixed 3/8" marking gauge*
> 
> Simple, but for every bookcase I build, I need to cut a dozen 3/8" wide & deep rabbets. Which means marking two dozen lines 3/8" from the edge of a board.
> 
> ...


Simple, functional and does the job well, can't ask for more than that!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixed 3/8" marking gauge*
> 
> Simple, but for every bookcase I build, I need to cut a dozen 3/8" wide & deep rabbets. Which means marking two dozen lines 3/8" from the edge of a board.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Peter!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixed 3/8" marking gauge*
> 
> Simple, but for every bookcase I build, I need to cut a dozen 3/8" wide & deep rabbets. Which means marking two dozen lines 3/8" from the edge of a board.
> 
> ...


Less is plenty!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixed 3/8" marking gauge*
> 
> Simple, but for every bookcase I build, I need to cut a dozen 3/8" wide & deep rabbets. Which means marking two dozen lines 3/8" from the edge of a board.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Mads! It's looking like I may need to replace the brad every hundred lines or so. It's starting to bend a little. Perhaps I should've used steel rather than brass.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixed 3/8" marking gauge*
> 
> Simple, but for every bookcase I build, I need to cut a dozen 3/8" wide & deep rabbets. Which means marking two dozen lines 3/8" from the edge of a board.
> 
> ...


Yes a hardened steel nail is preferable.
You can buy a picture hook for concrete, these white plastic once, they usually have three extremely hard nails.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixed 3/8" marking gauge*
> 
> Simple, but for every bookcase I build, I need to cut a dozen 3/8" wide & deep rabbets. Which means marking two dozen lines 3/8" from the edge of a board.
> 
> ...


Agreed, but perhaps I'll make another with a thicker turning and a small piece of old file ground to a sharp point instead. Tom got me thinking about what point I prefer, and while the nail is working well, I may want to try a knife-point marking gauge at some point. Perhaps this one will keep working until that time.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixed 3/8" marking gauge*
> 
> Simple, but for every bookcase I build, I need to cut a dozen 3/8" wide & deep rabbets. Which means marking two dozen lines 3/8" from the edge of a board.
> 
> ...


The two types are working different and makes different results.
The knife pint, cuts and leave a sharp line, good for dovetails and so on.
The nails, tear and makes a groove, so these are fine for resawing, or where you want a visual line.
I use both types, but a wheel version is my favourite for the sharp edges.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Quick mortar & pestle*

I wanted to do some kolrosing (or kohlrosing) on my baby bow saw but the coffee grounds I got from my sweetie were far too coarse. So I whipped up this quick mortar and pestle from a piece of ash and a pine board. The pine board is awfully soft for a mortar, but it did the trick today. The pestle works pretty well, and I expect the end grain to get awfully brown since I'll only be using it to grind coffee grounds to powder.



















It's pretty handy having a lathe around to knock out other tools like these when I need them.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Quick mortar & pestle*
> 
> I wanted to do some kolrosing (or kohlrosing) on my baby bow saw but the coffee grounds I got from my sweetie were far too coarse. So I whipped up this quick mortar and pestle from a piece of ash and a pine board. The pine board is awfully soft for a mortar, but it did the trick today. The pestle works pretty well, and I expect the end grain to get awfully brown since I'll only be using it to grind coffee grounds to powder.
> 
> ...


Nice one, need a tool - make it. That's true craftsmanship.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Quick mortar & pestle*
> 
> I wanted to do some kolrosing (or kohlrosing) on my baby bow saw but the coffee grounds I got from my sweetie were far too coarse. So I whipped up this quick mortar and pestle from a piece of ash and a pine board. The pine board is awfully soft for a mortar, but it did the trick today. The pestle works pretty well, and I expect the end grain to get awfully brown since I'll only be using it to grind coffee grounds to powder.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Tom! I've got grinders and a nice ceramic mortar and pestle, but I don't like the taste of coffee, so this is a uni-tasker. It'll grind coffee and that's it.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Quick mortar & pestle*
> 
> I wanted to do some kolrosing (or kohlrosing) on my baby bow saw but the coffee grounds I got from my sweetie were far too coarse. So I whipped up this quick mortar and pestle from a piece of ash and a pine board. The pine board is awfully soft for a mortar, but it did the trick today. The pestle works pretty well, and I expect the end grain to get awfully brown since I'll only be using it to grind coffee grounds to powder.
> 
> ...


Quick fix Dave. Many years back my wife says she needed a mixing thing. I said you have like 5 mixers now in the cabinet. She said no, I need one with the baseball stick. What??? You mean a mortar and pestle? That's it she said. So I made one. LOL. They serve more purposes than just in a kitchen too.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Quick mortar & pestle*
> 
> I wanted to do some kolrosing (or kohlrosing) on my baby bow saw but the coffee grounds I got from my sweetie were far too coarse. So I whipped up this quick mortar and pestle from a piece of ash and a pine board. The pine board is awfully soft for a mortar, but it did the trick today. The pestle works pretty well, and I expect the end grain to get awfully brown since I'll only be using it to grind coffee grounds to powder.
> 
> ...


Yep, Dave. I didn't even think of using one in a kitchen until I was in my late 20s. But sometimes the mixer with the baseball bat is the right tool for the job!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Quick mortar & pestle*
> 
> I wanted to do some kolrosing (or kohlrosing) on my baby bow saw but the coffee grounds I got from my sweetie were far too coarse. So I whipped up this quick mortar and pestle from a piece of ash and a pine board. The pine board is awfully soft for a mortar, but it did the trick today. The pestle works pretty well, and I expect the end grain to get awfully brown since I'll only be using it to grind coffee grounds to powder.
> 
> ...


Problems are there to be solved.
Fine one.
Best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Quick mortar & pestle*
> 
> I wanted to do some kolrosing (or kohlrosing) on my baby bow saw but the coffee grounds I got from my sweetie were far too coarse. So I whipped up this quick mortar and pestle from a piece of ash and a pine board. The pine board is awfully soft for a mortar, but it did the trick today. The pestle works pretty well, and I expect the end grain to get awfully brown since I'll only be using it to grind coffee grounds to powder.
> 
> ...


Indeed, Mads. If it weren't for such problems, life would get boring, I expect. Be well, my fellow problem-solver!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Ixion eggbeater drill*

Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.



















So I gave it a good bath in citrus degreaser, then cleaned it up. Turned a new handle on the lathe, and used an 8d wire nail as a new shaft for the handle. Primed the metal that originally had enamel on it, then gave it four coats of shiny new enamel, and a little oil on the moving parts. I figure the bright yellow finish (instead of the original black) will help me find it on my messy bench. The main gear appears to have been red from the factory.










Ixion was, near as I can tell, a small manufacturer in Hamburg between the wars. And an manufacturer of bigger fancier machines more recently.










This will probably have a countersink bit in it almost full time.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Now that's a first class restoration


----------



## treg (Jun 5, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Very nice Dave…the paint job is genius for the messy workbench syndrome.
I've always wanted an egg beater…I think now I'll go find one and do the same. Thanks for posting.


----------



## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Nice refurb Dave.

I'm guessing the yellow was picked to make it stand out before you found osage orange, now it's going to go into hiding near your lathe.


----------



## recycle1943 (Dec 16, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


nice restoration, that'll fit right into your modus operandi


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


I have an ixion drill with the crankcase .. large 2 speed one. You did a fine job on yours. Reminded me that I need to get mine out and at least put new gear oil in it .

https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/188314


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Great refurbishment of the drill, and I like your idea for using with a countersink, it will be very handy & convenient during projects.
Two thumbs up on this .....


----------



## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


That's pretty robust for just an egg beater, looks heavy enough to have a breast plate on the top. At any rate, it looks very nice and your restoration has certainly done it justice.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Peter! It took a couple weeks, but only a few minutes at a time, in between other projects.

Thanks, Tom! The only problem is that if I make all my tools brightly colored, how will I find anything?

Thanks, Mike! I've only two Osage orange turning blanks, so hopefully that particular problem won't recur.

Thanks, Dick!

Thanks, Paul! Yeah, every once in a while… though here in NM there isn't much problem with things rusting, thankfully.

Thanks, Tom! Especially for shop furniture, I use wood screws and glue for most joints (saves on the use of clamps, and is quick), and I've been continually busy swapping bits in my one eggbeater. Decided it was time to get one I can just leave a countersink bit in continually,

Yeti, it's not that big, but yes, it's very robust. Thanks!


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


For some reason I have a taste for a brat with mustard and ketchup. LOL. Nice restore Dave and a great idea for a dedicated countersink. I remember having one back years ago and heaven knows what happened to it. If I ever find it, it will be a countersink. Don't you just love to make new handles on a lathe.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Heh! Sounds good, Dave! Thanks! And yeah, turning a new handle is fun, especially as I means I get to dig through my "too small for most projects, but I'm not throwing it out because it's fancy wood" scrap wood bucket. Found a piece of apple for the new handle on this one. I just need to figure out (or buy) a smaller chuck so I can chuck up little things without having to glue on a block which takes more time…


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


I remember the feeling Dave. Years back when I started I got tired of that same problem and also aggravated from constantly changing jaws in the chucks. 9 chucks now and that solved the problem. All are dedicated. LOL. Another thing I started using a couple years ago was 5 minute epoxy for the tenon. I do wait 15 minutes but after that I can hollow out a log.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


I've been thinking about bringing the hot glue gun out to the shop for "instant tenon," especially when I turn a tenon on something, only to discover that it's too large for my 2" jaws, but too small for the 4" jaws, and I refuse to buy a set of 3" jaws just because I'm an idiot. At least, today.


----------



## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...





> I've been thinking about bringing the hot glue gun out to the shop for "instant tenon," especially when I turn a tenon on something, only to discover that it's too large for my 2" jaws, but too small for the 4" jaws, and I refuse to buy a set of 3" jaws just because I'm an idiot. At least, today.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Would a clamp with 3 screws at 120 degrees apart work?

Like a nutcracker but with 3 screws.
So, sort of like this but with another screw at 10 to and another at 10 past (obviously the back would be long enough and thick enough to fit in the 4" jaws).


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


I think it would be easy to have that be more fragile than I like, Mike. I'm sometimes a caveman who takes the "get a bigger rock to hit it with" approach.

Simply making a few tools for marking the right radii would probably solve my problem, too.


----------



## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Wasn't sure if it would fly apart on the lathe or not with a bit of wobble anyway, but figured I was 4 or 5 thousand miles away, so pretty safe.

Making the right marking tools sounds like the easy way out, so seems an unlikely solution.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Yeah. One of my major problems with turning is that when I remove something from the lathe, and then go to chuck it a second time, I sometimes end up with the center off a bit. I think that sort of thing would make that problem worse for me.

Yeah, it's a fairly radical idea, but maybe I can just put two nails in a board or something… bonus points if they're at the wrong distance the first two or three tries.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Nice restoration Dave, I have been thinking about hitting some flea markets for some old hand tools, they don't make them like they used to.

I finally started a bit of organization in the shop last night, dug out the rest of the chisel's and did some sharpening. Tonight ran the power strop and layed them all out, next is to build a set of drawers for them. Well in the process of that I found a old Yankee Screwdriver, has a straight bit, but still works.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Eric. They sure don't. What are you looking for?

I haven't found a yankee screwdriver I like yet. Have two, but they're both just a little off and don't work as smoothly as I'd like. But I don't need one very often. I have a 4" sweep brace with a screwdriver bit in it, but I've discovered I'm happier with Robertson screws, so I bought a few pounds of those, both steel and brass, and I use those for all my shop furniture and jigs lately.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Dave, just nosing around, planes, rabbit planes, bit an brace just for starters. Nothing in particular. But the weather is warming up, and besides it would be fun, along with getting out again.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a plan, and sounds like stuff you can probably find with enough nosing around. Have fun & be safe!


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Always try to be safe, definitely don't want to catch that nasty covid, better half an I get the second dose next week. But will still take precautions.

That Yankee Screwdriver is a model #130 from North Brothers, Philadelphia. I could not find a date on it, but my guess would put it at close to 100 years old. I think it was passed down from my grandfather.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Happy beater now!
I think it became a wee grooovvvyyy seventies happy life, so you will smile and become funky, when you drill.
Nice work on the restauration, it can now live another 90 years.
Best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


Funky drilling indeed, Mads! That's a smile for sure. Best to you as well!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Ixion eggbeater drill*
> 
> Got an Ixion eggbeater drill. It was in slightly rough shape, with everything working, but some surface rust, and the original finish mostly chipped off. Also, the wooden handle on the crank was gone, and the metal shaft was nasty with rust.
> 
> ...


;-)


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*

A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.




  







Edited to add: a photo of the instruction sheet:










I have cutters for 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 inch, which I think will cover me pretty well. Anything larger than that, I can make on the lathe. And if I should need one of the odd sixteenths, I can chuck the dowel up in a drill and sand it down until it's the right size.


----------



## oldrivers (Feb 10, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


That is a slick device will be very helpful.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Like sharpening a pencil. Looks and sounds like you have it very sharp and running in great condition. What's the biggest dowel you can make?


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Oldrivers! The beech dowels I made this morning are already glued into some 1/4" holes drilled on the post drill in a lamination of beech and cherry I glued up yesterday. Should be very pretty when turned.

Thanks, Dave. It currently cuts the dowels about 1/64 too fat, so I took off the cutter and sharpened it, then adjusted it better. Works even better now!

I have 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 cutters. 3/4 is the biggest the machine can do.


----------



## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Nice Dave.

I wanted one of those, but way too spendy for me so ended up with a rounding plane instead.


----------



## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Great tool Dave. Wish I had one. Instead I bought a Lie-Nielsen dowel plate. It works well but it takes a lot of shaving with a spike shave before I can wack it through the plate.

How much did you pay for it?


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Yeah, Mike. It's pretty easy to get straight dowels with this, whereas a rounding plane… well, some of the dowels would work around corners.

I've got one of those too, James. This was about a grand, so a wee bit more than the dowel plate, but making 8" long *straight* dowels from 10" long pieces is pretty neat. And I've already used a few of them. I expect I'll get my money's worth out of it over time.


----------



## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


I've got one of those too, James. This was about a grand, so a wee bit more than the dowel plate, but making 8" long *straight* dowels from 10" long pieces is pretty neat. And I've already used a few of them. I expect I'll get my money's worth out of it over time.

I think it's a good investment. Over time it will increase in value. 
- Dave Polaschek
[/QUOTE]


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Oh yeah, it will probably increase in value, but I suspect I'll never sell it.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Very nice antique woodworking tool, like DOUBLED said, works like a pencil sharpener. The square hole wheel is convenient, looks to go up to 1". Be that the case?


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Just up to 3/4 inch, Tom. But yeah, it's pretty nice. And if I need inch dowels, I can turn them on the lathe.


----------



## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...





> Yeah, Mike. It's pretty easy to get straight dowels with this, whereas a rounding plane… well, some of the dowels would work around corners.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Rive the wood instead of sawing it seems to be the trick for straight dowels with a rounding plane I find.

I'll get the stanley if I ever find one cheap enough of course


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


I've heard that, Mike. I also figure that this will let me use woods with grain that won't rive if I want.


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


I bought one of these last year but I have had a little trouble sharpening the blades and getting them set to cut a nice smooth dowel. Mine came with a nearly complete set of the cutters. need to get it out again and see if I can tune it a little better. I did find a source for some replacement blades, BTW (though I will have to find it again if anyone needs it).


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


That looks neat *DP*... had to do a bit of an *ogle* on *Google* thinking it may be a new product I haven't heard of… You did well picking one up with all the cutters.
Why can't good stuff stay in production?

I'm forever fidgeting around for dowels and have *JEMI*'s gizmo in both metric and (ugh!) imperial. Pain to prepare timber and used to find it much easier to just stain standard pine dowels.

Desperately needed "perfect" 20mm dowels for my Fe*$*tool MFT style worktops.

While large dowels can be made on the lathe, it's hard to get a perfect diameter by "free-hand"... I need near perfect dowels for oversized wooden threads using my *Beall wood threader*.

The closest I could find for a good commercial dowel maker was the *Veritas dowel maker* from *Lee-Valley*.

Have been considering a review of both the *Beall* and *Veritas* products.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Nathan, I didn't have much trouble blade, but I used a coarse slip. I'll give all the blades a touch-up with the slips some time when there's a little less chaos in the shop and I'm not at risk of losing things.

Ducky, I didn't get all the cutters. I don't have the odd sixteenths. Dowel plates have a purpose, and for making a one-off, they're great. They work a lot better with wood that rives well, though. The Veritas Dowel Maker is basically the same cutter as the Stanley 77, but without the square plate to hold the wood aligned properly.

As for getting the perfect dimension on the lathe, using a bedan for a peeling cut with a Sorby Sizing Tool:










It's a pretty slick system, I think. You can overshoot if you get a catch, but otherwise when the tool drops past the dowel, you're at the right size.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


That would be a very nice addition to any shop. Have admit I have never heard or seen one like that. Something to keep my eyes open for at flea market and the such.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


They don't go cheap, Eric. But yeah, it's handy, and I've made enough dowels with a dowel plate or by hand-rounding them with a block plane to want an easier way, which this definitely is.


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Instead of a dowel plate, I have used my machinist vise to make small dowels. It actually works really well and you can literally make any size needed, though I do not think that I made anything larger than about 1/2".


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


I tried that once, Nathan. Didn't go so well, but I was using something like oak or ash, and it kept breaking away chunks along the weak grain.


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


One more tip for sizing dowels or small tenons on the lathe. An open end wrench makes an excellent gauge for measuring as you cut. When you are getting close just slide a wrench that is the size you are shooting for over it and once it slips on, its good to go. With something like a bedan or parting tool you can sometimes work the tool with one hand while you hold the wrench against the opposite side with the other until it slips on.


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


The vise method does work better with softwood than hard. I think that when I have it has failed for me, I was probably trying to go too fast. The harder the wood the smaller increments you need to take. The type of jaws on your vise might make a difference too.

EDIT: with HW, it also helps to ease the corners first.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Yeah, Nathan. I saw a video of a guy using a bedan one-handed in a peeling cut to size a tenon and an open-end wrench in the other. Calipers work the same way, as does that sorby tool.

I suspect the jaws on my Ridgid vise aren't especially well-suited to making dowels. More than once I've pondered just drilling holes in them and attaching permanent wooden jaws to it, but then I need to do a little metalwork and I appreciate them.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Thanks for replying Dave. Looks like a pencil sharpener and half coffee grinder. Love it.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


You're welcome, Dave! It's fun watching the shavings come flying out when it's all working well. I'm going to have to figure out a better mounting system than just screwing it to the end of my bench, but not today.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...





> You're welcome, Dave! It's fun watching the shavings come flying out when it's all working well. I'm going to have to figure out a better mounting system than just screwing it to the end of my bench, but not today.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


I've got it mounted to a board that I can then lock into place with dog and end vise at the bench,


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Dave, When you get a chance, can you post a picture of one of the cutters that shows how you have the blade set? Even with the blade sharp, I still get pretty bad tear out so the only thing left is the how I have the blade adjusted.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Was thinking I'd do something like that, Smitty, but I also will be building a small bench from 4-4×6 eight-foot beams a neighbor gave me (from a pergola project he's decided he'll never get to) for my miter box, and I was trying to decide if I could mount it on that without getting in the way of the miter box.

Nathan, I'll shoot a couple pictures later today. My sweetie's got a dentist appointment early, so no morning shop-time for me.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Remember that the crank handle is adjustable, and needs to be in front of a bench's edge in cases where larger dowel making needs handle changes.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Nathan, I stole a couple minutes to grab these. Let me know if you need better pictures. I've got a macro lens for my iPhone somewhere so I could get even closer. Just have to find the thing…










The left half of the blade is exposed over the edge of the cutter body. The right half isn't. Note that on mine, the blade can pivot a little, and it's very sensitive to pivoting, but it looks like years of sharpening has also made the edge of the blade kinda curved.










This one also shows just how little of the blade is protruding beyond the body of the cutter. I can back it off a hair and get an even better finish, but I suspect the real trick is that the blade is skewed a bit from a straight peeling cut, and that improves the finish, just as it would when using a skew on the lathe.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...





> Remember that the crank handle is adjustable, and needs to be in front of a bench's edge in cases where larger dowel making needs handle changes.


Yeah, Smitty. I have the machine on the right edge of my main bench at the moment, with the handle over the edge, and the finished dowel heading toward the wall. I can make about a foot-long dowel before it hits the wall, which is fine for now, but not great for the long term.

I'm thinking if I put it on a bench with the miter box, I'll have the handle hanging off the back, and I'll just need to move the bench away from the wall a little when using it. I think that would be an acceptable solution, but I'll have to see exactly what I come up with…


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Thanks Dave. I will have to play around with it later. You definitely have it backed off more than I do I think. It also seems like when I had it backed off too much that the dowels were oversized a bit.

BTW, mine came with a 3/4" cutter head as well but the hollow shaft is actually too small for the 3/4" dowel to pass through so it works more like a tenon cutter for that one.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Nathan, the dowels are a bit oversized, but it's on the order of 1/128 or less, and a quick wipe with a piece of 60 grit made the dowel fit perfectly in the holes drilled by my DeWalt 1/4" bit. I'd rather have them a hair oversized and tight than undersized and sloppy loose.

I've got the 3/4 cutter head, but haven't tried it yet. I've got about 2 feet of 3/4" oak dowel and a foot and change of birch left over from a previous project, so until I need walnut dowel or something like that it probably won't get used. But it looked like it would handle 3/4" dowel, though it might be a tight fit. Use plenty of lube?

I bought three new blades this morning (for about $100, shipping included) which should be a lifetime supply for me. And maybe for the next person.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Dave, What an awesome machine; simple, strong and sturdy.
The cut on the dowel you made in the video is clean so the cutters are in good shape, love it!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


Agreed, Peter! When I first heard about them, I thought they were pretty neat, and now that I have one of my own, I'm glad I bought it. Being able to make dowels on demand will come in handy for a lot of projects, I expect.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


That thing is sooooooooooooooooooooooo cool.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Stanley #77 Dowel Maker*
> 
> A while ago I got a dowel maker. Got it up and running this morning, and made a video of making a 1/4 inch beech dowel.
> 
> ...


It's a very good toy, Mads! And useful! I've been turning all sorts of scraps into dowels, just in case I need them. ;-)


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Fast Phone Holder*

I've been wanting to film videos in the shop (not too much, but people seem to like them…) but never had enough hands. I took two pieces of scrap pine, and a couple wood screws, and made this. It did the job pretty well.



















I just clamp it in one of my vises, or screw it to the bench, adjust the aim, then snap my camera into the case and film. Easy-peasy!


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fast Phone Holder*
> 
> I've been wanting to film videos in the shop (not too much, but people seem to like them…) but never had enough hands. I took two pieces of scrap pine, and a couple wood screws, and made this. It did the job pretty well.
> 
> ...


Dave that looks like a good simple way to do it. I know whenever I try to video something it seems like it's a different approach every time to set it up.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fast Phone Holder*
> 
> I've been wanting to film videos in the shop (not too much, but people seem to like them…) but never had enough hands. I took two pieces of scrap pine, and a couple wood screws, and made this. It did the job pretty well.
> 
> ...


Yeah. I've tried various things, but this is stupid and simple enough that it seems to work. And I added a cleat to it so I can hang it on any of my cleats now, too. That may work for filming at the lathe.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fast Phone Holder*
> 
> I've been wanting to film videos in the shop (not too much, but people seem to like them…) but never had enough hands. I took two pieces of scrap pine, and a couple wood screws, and made this. It did the job pretty well.
> 
> ...


Nice, it works, the sign of success.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fast Phone Holder*
> 
> I've been wanting to film videos in the shop (not too much, but people seem to like them…) but never had enough hands. I took two pieces of scrap pine, and a couple wood screws, and made this. It did the job pretty well.
> 
> ...


Yeah, and it's almost 3-axis adjustable!


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fast Phone Holder*
> 
> I've been wanting to film videos in the shop (not too much, but people seem to like them…) but never had enough hands. I took two pieces of scrap pine, and a couple wood screws, and made this. It did the job pretty well.
> 
> ...


*NECESSITY*, The mother of invention!!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fast Phone Holder*
> 
> I've been wanting to film videos in the shop (not too much, but people seem to like them…) but never had enough hands. I took two pieces of scrap pine, and a couple wood screws, and made this. It did the job pretty well.
> 
> ...


Indeed! And with a cleat on the back of it, it can hang on the wall out of the way when I'm not using it.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fast Phone Holder*
> 
> I've been wanting to film videos in the shop (not too much, but people seem to like them…) but never had enough hands. I took two pieces of scrap pine, and a couple wood screws, and made this. It did the job pretty well.
> 
> ...


Less is all we need.
;-)


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fast Phone Holder*
> 
> I've been wanting to film videos in the shop (not too much, but people seem to like them…) but never had enough hands. I took two pieces of scrap pine, and a couple wood screws, and made this. It did the job pretty well.
> 
> ...


Indeed! Though it may not be all we *want!* ;-)


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fast Phone Holder*
> 
> I've been wanting to film videos in the shop (not too much, but people seem to like them…) but never had enough hands. I took two pieces of scrap pine, and a couple wood screws, and made this. It did the job pretty well.
> 
> ...


Laughs.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Mini marking square*

Building drawer boxes, I'm working on small dovetails on relatively thin stock. I don't need a big square for marking lines, and given how cluttered my bench is at the moment, a small square seemed like a good thing to have.

I took a scrap of sycamore and planed it so the sides were flat and parallel.

Then I cut a slightly oversized dado in one of the pieces, glued a cross piece in, pegged it with a piece of bamboo skewer, and made sure it was actually square.





































Looks close enough for my needs. I'll clean it up and give it a coat of oil at some point, but for now, I'm back to marking and cutting dovetails.

Edited to add:

With some shaping to make it more comfortable in the hand, and a couple coats of oil, it's looking pretty good to me.


----------



## recycle1943 (Dec 16, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mini marking square*
> 
> Building drawer boxes, I'm working on small dovetails on relatively thin stock. I don't need a big square for marking lines, and given how cluttered my bench is at the moment, a small square seemed like a good thing to have.
> 
> ...


you could have at least used a prettier hunk of lumber : )


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mini marking square*
> 
> Building drawer boxes, I'm working on small dovetails on relatively thin stock. I don't need a big square for marking lines, and given how cluttered my bench is at the moment, a small square seemed like a good thing to have.
> 
> ...


I think this one will be pretty once I clean it up and hit it with some oil, Dick. It's got nice QSS grain, just hard to see yet.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mini marking square*
> 
> Building drawer boxes, I'm working on small dovetails on relatively thin stock. I don't need a big square for marking lines, and given how cluttered my bench is at the moment, a small square seemed like a good thing to have.
> 
> ...


Nice work here, this will be very handy. I did something similar for dovetails, with one side square & straight, the other at about a 7 deg. angle for marking tails.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mini marking square*
> 
> Building drawer boxes, I'm working on small dovetails on relatively thin stock. I don't need a big square for marking lines, and given how cluttered my bench is at the moment, a small square seemed like a good thing to have.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Tom! I've already got a 14 degree (1:4) dovetail marker I use all the time, but I needed this for marking straight across, as my squares are too big for these small boards.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mini marking square*
> 
> Building drawer boxes, I'm working on small dovetails on relatively thin stock. I don't need a big square for marking lines, and given how cluttered my bench is at the moment, a small square seemed like a good thing to have.
> 
> ...


Quick little square. The things we build to get the job done. Great job.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mini marking square*
> 
> Building drawer boxes, I'm working on small dovetails on relatively thin stock. I don't need a big square for marking lines, and given how cluttered my bench is at the moment, a small square seemed like a good thing to have.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Eric. Worked well today on drawer #3.


----------



## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mini marking square*
> 
> Building drawer boxes, I'm working on small dovetails on relatively thin stock. I don't need a big square for marking lines, and given how cluttered my bench is at the moment, a small square seemed like a good thing to have.
> 
> ...


Handy Dave

I use these little 3 inch squares for almost everything, they just live at the end of the bench.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mini marking square*
> 
> Building drawer boxes, I'm working on small dovetails on relatively thin stock. I don't need a big square for marking lines, and given how cluttered my bench is at the moment, a small square seemed like a good thing to have.
> 
> ...


Yeah, Mike. I thought of making a nicer one with brass and mahogany or some such, but having a quick wooden one will be fine for now. Plus I'm going to need a 60 degree marking / try square at some point, and maybe that'll be the fancier model. Or part of a set…


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mini marking square*
> 
> Building drawer boxes, I'm working on small dovetails on relatively thin stock. I don't need a big square for marking lines, and given how cluttered my bench is at the moment, a small square seemed like a good thing to have.
> 
> ...


Good idea Dave. I made a similar one to keep in the garage. They work just as good for your needs.


----------



## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mini marking square*
> 
> Building drawer boxes, I'm working on small dovetails on relatively thin stock. I don't need a big square for marking lines, and given how cluttered my bench is at the moment, a small square seemed like a good thing to have.
> 
> ...


The Paul Sellers dovetail template has one side to be used as a square.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mini marking square*
> 
> Building drawer boxes, I'm working on small dovetails on relatively thin stock. I don't need a big square for marking lines, and given how cluttered my bench is at the moment, a small square seemed like a good thing to have.
> 
> ...


Thanks Dave! As MaFe says, less is plenty.

Thanks Sylvain! I thought about that, but two single-purpose tools seem to work well for me. And by making them small, they don't take up much space.

Threw a coat of 50-50 tung oil and mineral spirits on. Looking kinda pretty, too.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Mini marking square*
> 
> Building drawer boxes, I'm working on small dovetails on relatively thin stock. I don't need a big square for marking lines, and given how cluttered my bench is at the moment, a small square seemed like a good thing to have.
> 
> ...


Updated with a new photo of the shaped and finished square.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Hand cranked grinder*

A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.

I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Nice restoration, this will be great for grinding irons without overheating. I agree with the no paint decision, it's functional as is.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Thanks, Tom! The only real reason I could think of for painting it would be rust protection, but here in the desert, just hitting things with a little 3-in-1 is plenty of protection.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Well done Dave,
Good to see you keeping your nose to it!


----------



## Sycamoray (Jun 24, 2020)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Smooth action, no visible wobble on the stone. You're in good shape there, Dave.

I agree that we're fortunate to avoid rust without much effort. Just keep an eye on it, as I recently noticed a little snuck into my shop.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Thanks, Rob! I'll try to avoid injuring myself with it!

Thanks, Brian! I watch things pretty closely during the monsoon, but otherwise I'm starting to be a bit of a slacker.


----------



## oldrivers (Feb 10, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Mighty a little renovation and you have a good tool, congratulations Dave.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Thanks, Oldrivers!


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


That is really neat Dave, and in the video it is running great. Nice restoration.


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


i knew you could get it running yes i dont think it seen much use except weird mark on stone

*GLAD YOU LOVE IT :<)))))))*


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Thanks, Eric!

Yeah, Tony. Thanks again, buddy! It's been taken apart a few times from what I can tell, and I think there's about 3/16 to 1/4 off the stone, and there was one screw missing for the plate that covers the gears, but it's still got plenty of life left in it, and I can find a new screw if it really bugs me.

That gouge in the stone looks like someone tried to sharpen an awl or something without moving it. But it ground out pretty quickly.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Cool Dave and good job getting it working. I have one from my dad around here. I should set it up.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Thanks, Dave! Getting it going is helping encourage me to finish the design of my grinder / sharpening bench. Two motorized grinders, this hand-cranked unit, plus room for a tray with stones for hand-sharpening, all in one place. Gonna need to go to one of the big boxes to buy some tubas, though.


----------



## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Awesome Dave. Good to see old tools with new life  Looks like it runs nice and true and has some legs once you get it spun up )


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Thanks, Kenny! It's a fairly soft stone, but I think it'll serve me well. It didn't run so true before I trued up the wheel, but that wasn't too bad. Plus, it's an aerobic workout using it.


----------



## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


I think you should completely refurbish and re-paint it. I recall Kenny did that with a plane and it really looked nice. Plus you are retired so you have more time than ever to spend on your hobbies.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Well, it's refurbed already. And I might paint it, but that would mean stripping it then priming and painting, and I would want to do a bake-on enamel.

Might still happen, but I find that being retired means I have *less* time for projects like that because I have more other projects to tackle.


----------



## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Nice rehab Dave


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Thanks, Mike!


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Nice touch to get it in good shape, Dave…...................Cheers, Jim


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Thanks, Jim!


----------



## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.





> Might still happen, but I find that being retired means I have *less* time for projects like that because I have more other projects to tackle.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Sounds like you need a part time job so you have more time to be retired. How's that for some twisted logic?


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


I'm not sure if that would work at this point, Earl. The honey-dos have an established pace now.


----------



## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


I can see how one would use that versus a motorized unit, the slow speed makes the mistakes happen in slow motion 8^)

Nice restoration! For rust protection, you know the deal. Stucco!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Exactly, Splint! "Don't work faster than you can think," is one of the rules I live by.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


It came out lovely and the sound is wonderful.
I love mine, even I don't use them too often, something really joyful about it.
Smiles and best of my thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Thanks, Mads! It was a lovely gift from Tony.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Hand cranked grinder*
> 
> A few days ago Tony, the Gr8Hunter sent me a Keystone Iron City hand-cranked grinder he had scored. It was pretty rusty (but just surface rust - no pitting I could see) and would barely turn, so I completely disassembled it, soaked everything in Evaporust, chased the threads on all the nuts and bolts with taps and dies, applied a coat of linseed oil to the wooden handle, then reassembled everything, oiled the moving parts, and gave it a test drive. It worked great, but there was a deep (maybe 1/16 inch) groove worn in the wheel from something, so I trued that up and took out the gouge. Now I've got a nice grinder I can use for things I don't want to grind on the 3600 rpm electric grinders.
> 
> I thought about repainting it, but it works fine, and I think I'd rather be using it than fussing with repainting it.


Always wonderful to be spoiled.
Really kind of him.
Smiles


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Fixing loose ferrules*

Moving to Santa Fe, I've discovered that a lot of the handles on my wooden-handled tools have loosened up as the wood has dried out. Or in the case of things with ferrules, the ferrules will fall off because the wood shrunk.

There's a simple fix for the latter problem. I just punch a dimple in the ferrule using my Starrett automatic center punch and all is well.


----------



## recycle1943 (Dec 16, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixing loose ferrules*
> 
> Moving to Santa Fe, I've discovered that a lot of the handles on my wooden-handled tools have loosened up as the wood has dried out. Or in the case of things with ferrules, the ferrules will fall off because the wood shrunk.
> 
> There's a simple fix for the latter problem. I just punch a dimple in the ferrule using my Starrett automatic center punch and all is well.


a quick easy fix - pretty handy tool


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixing loose ferrules*
> 
> Moving to Santa Fe, I've discovered that a lot of the handles on my wooden-handled tools have loosened up as the wood has dried out. Or in the case of things with ferrules, the ferrules will fall off because the wood shrunk.
> 
> There's a simple fix for the latter problem. I just punch a dimple in the ferrule using my Starrett automatic center punch and all is well.


That is a nifty idea, and better than driving a nail into it taking a chance on cracking the wood.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixing loose ferrules*
> 
> Moving to Santa Fe, I've discovered that a lot of the handles on my wooden-handled tools have loosened up as the wood has dried out. Or in the case of things with ferrules, the ferrules will fall off because the wood shrunk.
> 
> There's a simple fix for the latter problem. I just punch a dimple in the ferrule using my Starrett automatic center punch and all is well.


the K.I.S.S method.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixing loose ferrules*
> 
> Moving to Santa Fe, I've discovered that a lot of the handles on my wooden-handled tools have loosened up as the wood has dried out. Or in the case of things with ferrules, the ferrules will fall off because the wood shrunk.
> 
> There's a simple fix for the latter problem. I just punch a dimple in the ferrule using my Starrett automatic center punch and all is well.


Thanks, Dick, Eric, Pottz! Yeah, simple fix, but I almost resorted to mixing up a batch of epoxy before I realized I had a simple solution right in front of me.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixing loose ferrules*
> 
> Moving to Santa Fe, I've discovered that a lot of the handles on my wooden-handled tools have loosened up as the wood has dried out. Or in the case of things with ferrules, the ferrules will fall off because the wood shrunk.
> 
> There's a simple fix for the latter problem. I just punch a dimple in the ferrule using my Starrett automatic center punch and all is well.


Nice and easy fix.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixing loose ferrules*
> 
> Moving to Santa Fe, I've discovered that a lot of the handles on my wooden-handled tools have loosened up as the wood has dried out. Or in the case of things with ferrules, the ferrules will fall off because the wood shrunk.
> 
> There's a simple fix for the latter problem. I just punch a dimple in the ferrule using my Starrett automatic center punch and all is well.


I would have thought that the ferrules would have already had a fixing indent, another job well done Dave.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Fixing loose ferrules*
> 
> Moving to Santa Fe, I've discovered that a lot of the handles on my wooden-handled tools have loosened up as the wood has dried out. Or in the case of things with ferrules, the ferrules will fall off because the wood shrunk.
> 
> There's a simple fix for the latter problem. I just punch a dimple in the ferrule using my Starrett automatic center punch and all is well.


Exactly, Tom!

I would've thought so too, Peter. But the Auriou rasps I like don't. Luckily the brass ferrule is thin enough that it's easy to dent. One of these days I'll make myself a set of floats so I can resharpen them and not have to buy rasps, but that means getting my forge set up first…


----------

