# End Grain sealing



## Raymond (Mar 12, 2008)

I hate end grain. What is your best way of sealing an end grain prior to applying a finish. I have some cedar that is sucking up finish like a sponge.


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## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

Shellac.


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## chriswright (Nov 13, 2008)

I've used sanding sealer on all types of woods. May take a few extra coats then the long grain but with a little sanding between them you should end up with a surface that's as smooth as glass.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

+1 on shellac…and on cedar I'd make certain it's a thick cut.


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## childress (Sep 14, 2008)

+2 on shellac


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Shellac (dewaxed) is always a great choice because it's compatible with anything you might want to put over the top of it.


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## tbone (Apr 24, 2008)

I bow down to the king-Woodwhisperer-and follow this advice.
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/how-to-finish-end-grain/


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## woodsmith1 (Apr 23, 2010)

I'e heard of mixing 50% water and 50% wood glue then brushing that on but have never tried it. Usually just more coats for finish.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Raymond, here is another vote for shellac but you can sand the end grain to a higher grit (if you stop at 220 for instance sand the end grain to at least 320). Sanding to a higher grit inhibits the absorption of stain/finish.


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

Scott brings up another option, although you might want to go 2-grits higher on the end grain, which would put the above example at 400-grit. Try 1-grit higher on a sample piece, and if that isn't even enough between the two grains, then try the same experiment going 2-grits higher.


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## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

Put Super Glue on the end grain.. It works for me…....just saturate, let it dry….good to go….


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## Gator (May 2, 2008)

If you are staining a piece and want to keep the end grain for going darker, dilute the finish by 75% with mineral spirits for the end grain application. Put a coat on, and if required, add another.

Gator


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## Raymond (Mar 12, 2008)

Great tips thank everyone.


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## Nomad62 (Apr 20, 2010)

Cedar is a sponge, lol. Anyway, I just toured a local high-end custom furniture outlet and they put three coats of finish on their end grains before any goes on the flat surfaces.


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## NietzscheWN (May 3, 2018)

Made some hard maple raised panel cabinet doors and knowing end grain on ogee profile of raised panel would soak up too much stain decided to sand end grain to 600 grit (220 on long grain) and use minwax wood sealer (between 15-180 minutes after application ) but still too dark. Sanded progressively to 1500 grit and wood shiny but still too dark lines on exposed end grain of ogee panel edge so mixed titebond original yellow glue 50 percent water and 50 percent glue ( a little goes a long way) and brushed in direction of open pores. Let dry overnight. Resanded doen to 1000 grit. Used minwax sanding sealer and it worked after two coats of gunstock oil stain.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

End grain can be burnished with a polished metal surface to close the pores up, its what I do. I use a slightly convex curve, like a large spoon, and rub it over the surface with a bit of pressure. Sanding to higher grits also works.


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## BroncoBrian (Jan 14, 2013)

I am with Chris and tbone. You have to sand the heck out of it.

Everyone should be familiar with Anchorseal. I've used it on a variety of projects (after stain) and it has prevented end grain split. Especially for outdoor projects. I completed my deck with mahogany last summer. One Colorado winter through and the end grain looks like it did day one. No splitting at all!


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