# CA glue for finishing pens?



## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

So I'm new to the pen turning game, and was looking for some advice on finishing. I've been using Shellawax so far, with the intent of adding EEE to the process as soon as I can get to the store to buy some.

I saw a YouTube clip that showed using CA glue to finish while the pen is still on the mandrel. My questions are:

Is CA glue really worth using?

Will using CA glue bond the turned blank to the bushings?

How do you prevent that from happening?

Any help is appreciated!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

ca glue makes a great finish ive used it a lot.as far as sticking to the bushings they make special plastic end caps but ive never worried about it and never had one i couldn't pop off.stick fast makes a line of products just for pen finishing,glue,buffing compounds and polish.check out you tube there are many video's with great tutorials.for people that actually use pens a lot it a much more durable finish than the wipe on finishes like shellawax.


----------



## JADobson (Aug 14, 2012)

Yes the bushings stick but they pop off easy enough. I usually run a razor blade around the intersection just to ensure a straight break but I've never had any trouble. The finish is very durable. Mine has been in my pocket or bag for years and is holding up just fine.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

*You are going to love pen turning!!* First go to International Assn. of Penturners and join. Everything you need to know and every question you might ask has been addressed there. I'd suggest you spend a few days watching youTube vids to give you an idea of what people do. Some of my favorites are RJB Woodturner, I think Bob has close to 400 vids posted, Tim at Wooden Whimsies and Ed Brown of Exotic Blanks. They all have good quality instructional vids from beginner to advanced and they also show their screw ups. You can even pick up the phone and call Tim or Ed and they will answer the phone and answer questions and they can sell you what you need. Awesome customer service from them both. You will then get sucked into the thousands of vids that are on youTube.

Watch a lot of vids. There are many ways and techniques to do everything so I'd spend a week just watching videos and reading the forums on IAP before deciding what will work best for you. i.e I bought a barrel trimmer before realizing that I liked the disc sander method better.

I did the same thing and got the EEE and Shellawax thing before I realized that they are only for pens that you don't intend on putting CA on. You can make Shellawax at home. Don't buy the EEE yet. It's expensive. Learn the CA technique first. Haven't used either in 2 years. It's the way to treat bare wood instead of using CA. 98.325% of people use some form of CA. 

Feel free to PM me and we can chat.


----------



## DustyM (May 16, 2016)

CA all the way. I used to use the BLO/CA method, but found that multiple coats of thin CA gave me better results. Once I separate them from the bushing, I carefully run the ends over some 320 grit sandpaper on a flat surface to make sure any gunk is scraped off and the ends are flush.

The other perk is that CA buffs up really nicely. I just finished these rings with StickFast thin CA, and used the Beall Buffing system (just the tripoli and white diamond wheels), and they came away shining (pics don't do them justice).


----------



## JADobson (Aug 14, 2012)

I use these micro mesh sanding pads to get the shine: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=62127&cat=1,250,43243,43245


----------



## RobHannon (Dec 12, 2016)

I am a fan of CA on wood then buffed with Hut PPP. Wear gloves if you are messy like me. Thin CA is water thin and will go everywhere. Face shield too if you are applying it with the lathe on. Glue on your face makes for a rough shave the next morning.

Do be cautious with friction polish on CA. Too heavy handed and you can burn it. Gets a milky/mottled look to it and you are stuck with sanding back down to the wood and starting over.


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Here is a good starter set for giving it a try. It comes with polishing compound to achieve a really nice finish. I finished my beer mug projects as my first attempt and it is works well for larger items finished on the lathe as well. Definitely get some nitril gloves and a face shield.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

> Here is a good starter set for giving it a try. It comes with polishing compound to achieve a really nice finish. I finished my beer mug projects as my first attempt and it is works well for larger items finished on the lathe as well. Definitely get some nitril gloves and a face shield.
> 
> - Lazyman


+1 its what i normally use.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> Thin CA is water thin and will go everywhere. Face shield too if you are applying it with the lathe on. Glue on your face makes for a rough shave the next morning.
> - RobHannon


I'm relatively new at it myself but the lathe shouldn't be running fast enough for CA to spray when it's applied. 300-400 rpm max. Otherwise in addition to spraying all over it will leave lines in the CA as it spins requiring more sanding work. Then, after you get good at the regular CA technique try this. *After you get good at the basics* try using a skew for the last part of the turn. It will leave as smooth a surface as 400 grit paper saving you a lot of time and reducing catches and tearout. I got a Benjamin's Best from Ed. Best $13 investment going. Here is the thread on IAP that I started to ask that question.

On CA I use plastic polish. 









So, as is evidenced by the replies there is no right or wrong way. They all work. Play around and you will find what you like.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

CA is my go-to pen finish because it is so darn easy and results are good. Is it the bestest, shiniest ever? I don't know because I m no turning wizzard. But it is dirt simple to get right.

I use whatever cheap CA I can get my hands on. Usually little tubes of Crazy Glue purchased in 10 packs on sale at Home Cheapo.

I go through the grits to super fine micro mesh, blow off with air, wipe with laquer thinner and let dry a couple minutes.

I cut up cheap paper towels into patches, fold up into small dabbers ~1"x2" and then at 300 rpm I put several generous drops on the dabber, then immediately apply a line of CA to the pen and wipe it in. You're only wiping to prevent build up ridges, so just go back and forth two or three times.

Here s the most important part…. let it dry a solid 5 to 10 minutes before doing the next coat. If it's still tacky when you do the next coat, you just ruined it and will have to re-turn the pen to remove the finish and do it again. I do about 5 coats and then let it dry 20 min. and remove from the lathe. As noted, it will stick to the bushings, but it's not a strong bond and will easilly pop.

Because you re finishing on the lathe, it can hold up production, so I set about prepping blanks and assembling pens in the intervals when I m waiting for the CA to dry solid. I can finish about 4 pens with one of the small tubes.

I've used medium and thin viscosity CA glue and much prefer the thin. I have activator, but don't use it. Don't like the way it feels or smells and it's expensive.

Note… CA glue burns your nose and/or eyes if you get to close to it while it's curing (i.e. to inspect the finish close up). Keep your distance.

I don't use gloves, I just use each little dabber one time and then throw it in the trash. I alway managet to get a drop or two on the tip of my index finger and thumb, but that's not really a big deal to me.

Try it, you'll like it.

- Mainiac Matt


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

> CA is my go-to pen finish because it is so darn easy and results are good. Is it the bestest, shiniest ever? I don t know because I m no turning wizzard. But it is dirt simple to get right.
> 
> I use whatever cheap CA I can get my hands on. Usually little tubes of Crazy Glue purchased ind 10 packs on sale.
> 
> ...


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

no need to let dry 5-10 minutes just a spray of activator and its ready for the next step in 5-10 seconds,i run through all the steps and have a finish in 5 minutes.ive never had a problem this way.a can lasts a long time and will do dozens of pens.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> no need to let dry 5-10 minutes just a spray of activator and its ready for the next step in 5-10 seconds,i run through all the steps and have a finish in 5 minutes.ive never had a problem this way.a can lasts a long time and will do dozens of pens.
> 
> - pottz


Yes, but go light on the activator as it will cause the glue to frost up.

That's what I mean when I say there is no right or wrong way. One person says "let it dry", another says "use activator" another says "use activator then let it dry" and another will say "use activator and let the whole thing dry over night". Some people love BLO under their CA and some say it ruins the pen. Believe it or not all of those methods work just fine. 

P.S. As much as I love ljs, the site to be on for pen turning is IAP. That's all they do over there. Most of the pen turners here on ljs are on IAP also.

Good luck and welcome to the club.


----------



## Mrowell (Apr 13, 2015)

I've used EEE, shellawax and CA glue all with good results. I think it really depends on the look and feel your going for. CA tend to leave more of a plastic feel but is highly durable and can provide a high gloss glass like finish.

As others have said CA can stick to bushings but usually comes apart easily by running a razor blade along the seam between the bushing and blank. You can also get finishing bushings that don't stick, I've got a couple pairs and love them. You can get them many places but here is one link to them so you know what your looking for (https://www.woodcraft.com/products/hold-fast-non-stick-bushings-for-ca-pen-finishing?gclid=CjwKCAiA0ajgBRA4EiwA9gFOR4ijpicRK2S8n9vDAFJ_hPL-jWhmrcfvjUOuiGFErZKV-IKL-YwjchoCB4IQAvD_BwE)


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

+1

Or, you can make them yourself as they are just HDPE which is melted down plastic milk bottles or a dollar store cutting board.










I've been shaving 1/2" slices off of my wife's big cutting board for the last 2 years and she still hasn't noticed. Although a few months ago she was wondering why it all of a sudden was able to fit in the dishwasher.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

> no need to let dry 5-10 minutes just a spray of activator and its ready for the next step in 5-10 seconds,i run through all the steps and have a finish in 5 minutes.ive never had a problem this way.a can lasts a long time and will do dozens of pens.
> 
> - pottz
> 
> ...


yes andy you are right and i should gave that advise,only give a light spritz,too much will make you have to sand it down and start over! and andy is right go on iap for pen turners,its the lj's of the pen world,much better than getting advise here.although i left years ago because the B-S was far worse than anything here,if can believe that-LOL!


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

^ That's interesting. Guess because I'm a newbie I haven't seen the BS yet. Or maybe those folks are gone.

pottz is right. Read what we have said then switch over to IAP.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

> ^ That s interesting. Guess because I m a newbie I haven t seen the BS yet. Or maybe those folks are gone.
> 
> pottz is right. Read what we have said then switch over to IAP.
> 
> - Andybb


well i gott say it was probably 8-10 years ago when i got off their siite because the "locals" got too much to deal with,bickering and cat fights,much worse than anything here by far.but it gave me a huge amount of info and knowledge about pen making.where its at today i dont know,so definetely check it out,because thats all they do.hey just enjoy and have fun making pens,if ya screw up its what,10 bucks?


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

I only made one pen in my life, but this post was most interesting and, Andy, I saved the IAP site.
I have a lot of buddies that turn pens they do use thin CA and it really shines. When I do small things like my awls, I use EEE and Shellawax and I love the results, too. I think it is all personal preference and you just have to try them to see first hand which one suits your way of working and gives the result you like.

Thank you all for all the comments and good leads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cheers and Merry Christmas to all you LJ's…....................................Jim


----------



## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

> I ve been shaving 1/2" slices off of my wife s big cutting board for the last 2 years and she still hasn t noticed. Although a few months ago she was wondering why it all of a sudden was able to fit in the dishwasher.
> 
> - Andybb


Hahahaha


----------



## Magnum (Feb 5, 2010)

> CA is my go-to pen finish because it is so darn easy and results are good. Is it the bestest, shiniest ever? I don t know because I m no turning wizzard. But it is dirt simple to get right.
> 
> I use whatever cheap CA I can get my hands on. Usually little tubes of Crazy Glue purchased in 10 packs on sale at Home Cheapo.
> 
> ...


+1 on this method!

Rick S.


----------



## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

Thanks so much for all the information! The most interesting thing I discovered was that Jim Jakosh only turned 1 pen in his life


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> I don t use gloves, I just use each little dabber one time and then throw it in the trash. I alway managet to get a drop or two on the tip of my index finger and thumb, but that s not really a big deal to me.
> - Mainiac Matt
> 
> What's funny is that after peeling the CA off of my thumb my iPhone doesn't recognize my finger print any more for about a week until the skin grows back.


----------



## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

> Thanks so much for all the information! The most interesting thing I discovered was that Jim Jakosh only turned 1 pen in his life
> 
> - Tooch


*Actually *it was a pencil page 18 on his projects! Finished a couple of pens with CA, okay but finally found some Carnauba hard wax, like the finish it gives better! Also did some with OSMOS which is nice but very time consuming.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

I forgot to mention the main reason I enjoy turning pens. It is the most stress relieving and therapeutic wood working activity I can do. Different than a project that can take months to come to fruition. I can go into the shop (that my wife, for some reason continues to call the garage) and know that within a couple of hours I can hold a finished pen in my hand to get a little mini feeling of satisfaction of creating something nice, even if it's only to give away to a friend.


----------



## DustyM (May 16, 2016)

> I forgot to mention the main reason I enjoy turning pens. It is the most stress relieving and therapeutic wood working activity I can do. Different than a project that can take months to come to fruition. I can go into the shop that my wife, (who for some reason continues to call the garage) and know that within a couple of hours I can hold a finished pen in my hand to get a little mini feeling of satisfaction of creating something nice, even if it s only to give away to a friend.
> 
> - Andybb


Bingo! Small lathe projects offer a great sense of near-immediate satisfaction, and I'll work hard for an excuse to go piddle around turning on a lazy afternoon.


----------



## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

Not to mention the wonderful smell of Olivewood on the Lathe!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

anyone ever turn camphor wood,great when you have congestion.


----------



## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

Do acrylic blanks get finished the same way? Or do they just get buffed out?


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> Do acrylic blanks get finished the same way? Or do they just get buffed out?
> 
> - Tooch


Both. Some folks just buff them. Some do CA like wood. Haven't done an acrylic for a few months but told myself that next time I would try just buffing and not use CA. Had been using CA (like I said, I'm new too) just cuz I didn't know any better. When I asked over on IAP I got the, "up to you" response. Then naturally somebody said they always use CA and someone else said they have never used CA on acrylic then the fight ensued.

Just like everything else, they both work. Probably also depends on the acrylic. There are different kinds of acrylic plus different types of alumilite used when casting your own blanks. As always, YMMV. Split the blank in half and CA one and not the other side by side. See what tickles your fancy.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

> Do acrylic blanks get finished the same way? Or do they just get buffed out?
> 
> - Tooch


no ca for acrylic they get polished out through several steps,one of the best is micro mesh used with polishing compounds that will give you a glass like polished surface.never heard of using ca on acrylics before.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

^ See what I mean.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

i checked out the pen turners forums and it seems quite a few do use ca,but think about it your putting a plastic finish on plastic ?


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> i checked out the pen turners forums and it seems quite a few do use ca,but think about it your putting a plastic finish on plastic ?
> 
> - pottz


^ See what I mean. 

For instance, There are times when you resin cast a wood and alumilite blank. I apply CA to those otherwise the wood would be bare.









Pen turning is very forgiving and hard to screw up and easy to fix. Blank explodes? Find the piece that came off, glue it back on, add a little sawdust, sand and go back over it with CA and never see the difference.

Just like some people swear by CA for gluing blanks. Use medium or thick for that and use plenty of it. I stopped using CA for gluing tubes in because it seemed that the ones that came apart on the lathe were because the tube and the blank weren't adhered to each other. I use Gorilla glue and let it dry over night. It reacts with water so I wipe the inside of the tube with a wet Q tip, put plumbers putty in one end, coat the tube with glue, stick it in one end while twisting then pull it back out then coat with glue again and push it home through the other end. Haven't had a blank come apart since I started doing that. BUT, others swear by epoxy and still others stick with CA.

10 people, 10 methods. All good.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

> i checked out the pen turners forums and it seems quite a few do use ca,but think about it your putting a plastic finish on plastic ?
> 
> - pottz
> 
> ...


your right for doing this type of pen it would work great.


----------



## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

Found out that this is a dangerous hobby to have when there is a Rockler store 5 minutes from my house… Just dropped close to $200.

But, they will all be turned into Christmas gifts Soo I think it's ok ….. Right?.


----------



## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

To be fair, most of that was investments in drill bits, bushings, CA debonder/accelerator and other supplies that the kids at school also need.

It's fun to see them get excited for this project because many of them have ordered different kits to do for themselves, but they don't realize all the extra "stuff" that is also required. Also to be fair, neither did I.


----------



## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

> Found out that this is a dangerous hobby to have when there is a Rockler store 5 minutes from my house… Just dropped close to $200.
> 
> But, they will all be turned into Christmas gifts Soo I think it s ok ….. Right?.
> 
> - Tooch


Only if you buy a few more tools to finish them.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> Found out that this is a dangerous hobby to have when there is a Rockler store 5 minutes from my house… Just dropped close to $200.
> 
> But, they will all be turned into Christmas gifts Soo I think it s ok ….. Right?.
> 
> - Tooch


You might consider taking those bits back to Rockler and buying this set from HF or this one from Home Depot and download a drill bit conversion chart. They're all in there. The H Depot set even has the lettered drill bits. Very handy.

As you have probably already figured out by now, all of Rockler's pen kits are made by Penn State Industries and are also distributed by other places under other kit names. Actually, including Penn State kits, they are all made in China or Taiwan. Penn State lists over 800 kits in their catalog, but they don't make 'em.

Here are a couple of handy charts to keep at your finger tips. 
PSI Conversion
Rockler Conversion

Also, download the IAP app that is a great reference for just about every kit made sorted by everything including bushing size and copies of the instructions. It's a few years old now but still covers 95% of the available kits.










































And I disagree with the notion that you should start with the Slimline pens. Yes they are cheap but they are unforgiving. I like the Sierra/Manhattan/Gatsby pens or even the comfort pens as they have a little more meat on them in terms of wood thickness and size.

OK, now I'm done. You'll just have to watch 10K youtube vids like the rest of us. There is no shortage of them.

Good luck. Feel free to PM. Tools are a whole 'nuther subject.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

dangerous-what do you mean?



























im not gonna show you whats in the cabinet under the lathe though.
its all good clean fun.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Looks like some burl up in the corner!

Blanks!? Blanks!? We don't need no stinking blanks!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

good eye andy,oregon maple burl,one of my fav's.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> good eye andy,oregon maple burl,one of my fav s.
> 
> - pottz


I manage a Jag/Land Rover Dealership. Somebody asked me if I knew where they could get a replacement walnut burl shift knob. I had to laugh out loud. Uh, yeah. In my garage.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

hey tell em for the right price…....


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Already did. $150 per. Now I have to figure out how to make them. 2 orders already. Gotta practice on some pine.

Tooch sorry for hi jacking your thread but I think you got some good info. Show us some pens.


----------



## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

I don't consider this thread hijacked, just "content adjusted".

Either way, no worries.


----------



## DustyM (May 16, 2016)

FWIW, I'm also in the Sierra/Gatsby camp with Andy. In addition to more meat to work with, you get more surface area to show off the wood, and the majority of folks I've gifted these to prefer a heftier pen.


----------



## RobHannon (Dec 12, 2016)

> And I disagree with the notion that you should start with the Slimline pens. Yes they are cheap but they are unforgiving. I like the Sierra/Manhattan/Gatsby pens or even the comfort pens as they have a little more meat on them in terms of wood thickness and size.
> 
> - Andybb


Unforgiving is spot on. The material is so thin on these that a little catch and your blank can break into pieces off of the tube. I just did a handful of slimlines with some hybrid resin blanks. More went into the circular file than will make it under the tree.


----------



## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

Yeah. This was my 2nd attempt… Didn't see these knot until it was too late


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

yeah i agree for someone doing their first pen a cigar pen would be much better but it seems they always teach newbies on slimlines,that was my first at a rockler class.


----------



## RobHannon (Dec 12, 2016)

If you want to go cheap and forgiving, check out Capt. Eddie Castelin's older video on .12 cent pen. Great way to practice small stuff without spending much on materials.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> Yeah. This was my 2nd attempt… Didn t see these knot until it was too late
> - Tooch


So, I'm gonna suggest that the issue with that blank was "not the knot" but the glue, specifically, not enough of it. If you can seperate the tube that was in that blank from the blank without destroying what's left of the blank then it wasn't glued well enough. (Although you can separate them by soaking in acetone overnight) The knot shouldn't be a problem. It probably would have added something to the pen. I haven't had that happen since I changed my technique based on something I saw in one of the hundreds of vids I've watched. I've only been making pens for less than a year but here's what I've learned…...

If you use CA then use at least medium if not thick. Thin CA can't fill the voids tightly enough. It's like water and a lot of it just soaks into the blank. Also, 2 part epoxy works well as does Gorilla glue which has become my personal favorite. Gorilla Glue reacts with water and swells and fills the voids. Rough up the blank with sand paper of around 100 grit. Put a glob of plumbers or Silly putty on the bench and push the tube firmly down onto it and it will create a nice little plug in the end. This keeps glue out of the end of the tube when you push it through. Use a Q Tip to wet the inside of the blank (only if you are using Gorilla Glue) then *coat* the tube in glue *liberally*. While constantly twisting the tube and blank (this distributes the glue onto the blank evenly) push it half way into the blank then turn the blank around and after adding a little more glue to the tube insert it into the other end of the blank fully while constantly twisting back and forth. Yes, there will be excess glue. Just wear gloves and wipe it off but your tube and blank will be solidly joined. *Let it dry overnight*. I've had blanks come apart like yours a few hours after gluing and found the CA still wet. This is also why I don't spray the ends of the tube with activator. To me it seems like it seals the CA in there so it might as well still be in the bottle and doesn't cure. If you're using G glue it will bubble out of the ends as it expands and cures. If you plan on making 4 or 5 pens then you can get set up for that by doing 4 or 5 blanks the night before.

Then you can decide how you want to square the ends. 50% of the folks will say they use a pen mill. I have destroyed too many custom blanks that way and now use the disc sanding method.

Experiment. I'm sure some will poo poo my method but it works for me. As always YMMV.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

andy i agree with what you just said,ive had enough blanks break apart because the glue didnt adhere properly,ive always used 15 minute epoxy but after what you said about gorilla glue i may try that.also when i turning the blank and see an inclusion or as tooch came across a knot ill soak it with medium ca and then continue and have never had a problem.i also agree on the pen mill issue,many times ive applied too much pressure,usually when they start getting dull,and ground off too much so ill probably go the same method as you,sanding.


----------



## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

> If you want to go cheap and forgiving, check out Capt. Eddie Castelin s older video on .12 cent pen. Great way to practice small stuff without spending much on materials.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Love the drilling by hand! 
So how do you make the Caps?

My style is to making the Slimline thicker in the middle, might have to try adding a ring or two if I can find that wire somewhere in the shop?
A couple of the slim lines in mahogany with hard wax finish


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> so ill probably go the same method as you,sanding.
> 
> - pottz


Turners Warehouse sells these but I made this from scrap. I just swap out the punch to fit the tube.

















I try to make everything as cheaply as I can.
















Including my $25 lathe with the free treadmill motor and the tool rest made using my Harbor Freight welder. Like I said, pen turning is very forgiving. 









Tooch - You're gonna want a set of these because at some point you're gonna want to take pens apart. Watch rjbwoodturner on youtube. He shows his mistakes.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

ditto on the punch set,a must have for pen making.check harbor freight for the best price,its the one shown.thanks for the tip andy ill probably just make my own,its a simple jig.


----------



## Tooch (Apr 6, 2013)

Just tried turning an Acrylic blank on a Slimline… I didnt' really like it. The wooden blanks chip away, whereas Acrylic feels like it "peels", and I had to keep stopping to remove the peels that tangled across the Mandrel.

I had a bunch of points where large chunks were taken out of the blank despite a slow tool engagement, and I felt like at one point the blank was getting twisted, potentially to it heating up from the friction, I don't know?

Also, because I was turning a slimline and the blank was semi-transparent (pink) the tube is visible from the outside and it looks kind of nasty.

Was think just a bad first experience or do the physical properties of the blanks vary tremendously from one to another?


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Watch other vids of people turning acrylic blanks.

Use a q tip or small brush to paint the inside of the tube.

Again you should be using IAP as it's a better resource for pen turners.

What tools are you using? Watch YouTube vids of people turning acrylic.

Stay away from the slim lines or forget making a pen and just turn the blank and practice.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

yeah ive done a few acrylics but hey im a wood guy so i havn't done any in years.for the tube paint it black so it wont show up.and yeah you get a lot of curly plastic that you have to keep removing.i would like to try some of the hybrid wood burl and resin combo's though,they look real interesting.peace and happy turning buddy.


----------



## ssnvet (Jan 10, 2012)

I bond the brass tubes into the blank hole with medium CA glue… the key is roughing up the outer surface of the tubes. You want them good and rough.

I like fatter pens to show off the wood more… but most of my pen recipients seem to feel the slim pens are more ergonomic. So I'm splitting the difference and use the Trimline kits… which is a medium diameter pen.

I agree that pens are the perfect project for getting a finished project in a short period of time. But I just finished a batch of 15 Christmas gift pens last night and was more than happy to brake down the pen setup on the lathe and box up my blanks and remaining pen kits for a while.

Now I'm moving on to do a pepper grinder and then I'm taking a crack at my first bowel.


----------



## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

Someone say Bowls? Found some chunks of Birch, wow, doses it ever turn nice but a pain to finish!
Small bowl finished with Hard Carnauba Wax and Large Birch and Walnut finished with OSMOS.
















We won't mention the one that broke attempting to finish a little smoother before the sanding!


----------



## RobHannon (Dec 12, 2016)

I have found acrylics to be very sensitive to angle. I have best luck with carbide or neg rake scrapers, but flat scrapers are not bad either. The tangled mess unfortunately is probably happening because you are cutting it right and those long strands are what you will get when you are cutting smoothly. Super light cuts and get a feel for the piece. Like wood, each acrylic can cut very differently. Right now I am working on an acrylic bowl with dried flowers and pinecones in the resin. Cuts very different than all resin blanks I have cast with the same product.

Tiny chips can be filled with med or thick CA. Clear 2 part epoxy can work if larger ones need to be repaired.

As far as transparent blanks go, I paint my tubes a color that will look good if they are visible. Usually black or white.


----------



## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> Use a q tip or small brush to paint the inside of the tube.
> - Andybb


Sorry. I meant to say paint the inside of the *blank* not the tube. I paint the inside of the blank (2 coats) because I don't trust that the CA isn't going to dissolve whatever I paint the tube with. But, some people swear by painting the tube and they are not wrong. YMMV.

Keep a toothbrush handy to wipe away the plastic threads while the lathe is turning.

I am purposely not commenting on tools as there are folks who get the same result with a big old gouge as some guys get with a small skew. Just technique.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

> Use a q tip or small brush to paint the inside of the tube.
> - Andybb
> 
> I am purposely not commenting on tools as there are folks who get the same result with a big old gouge as some guys get with a small skew. Just technique.
> ...


 ditto ive had guys told me every tool their is that its the best way,they all work just in different ways,and i dont think any are wrong,its what ever works best for you.


----------

