# Filling gaps in plywood on counter top



## ianscot (Jan 6, 2021)

I'm working on my first big project which includes a 3/4 plywood counter top. It wraps around the room so it couldn't be one piece. I also lack experience doing this so the seams between the pieces aren't all perfect. I have a few 1/32 - 1/16 in gaps between some of the pieces.

Should I fill them with something before applying the finish or just chalk it up to a learning experience?


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Ideally you would trim edges straight and use biscuits if you want it perfect.

Short of that, yes, fill it that gaps aren't that big.


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## ianscot (Jan 6, 2021)

I'm planning on shellacing the top. What should I use as a filler?


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

The edges of plywood do not take strikes, hits, and collisions worth snot. they will become frayed, the veneers will start to crack, and in short time they won't look too swell.

What most people do is edge over the edges with solid wood. Various edge treatments can be done, a few seen below.


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## dbw (Dec 2, 2013)

You'll need more than shellac. Shellac has zero protection qualities. Why are you shellacing? If this were my project this is what I would do: Fill the spaces with a quality filler such as TimberMate. Sand the entire top to 180 grit. If you want to use a stain you may want to consider General Finishes Gel Stain. It is VERY easy to use. GF has a how-to video on their web site. Use a top coat such as GF Gel Top Coat, Armor Seal, or some sort of Urethane top coat.

If the filler doesn't take the stain as well as the rest, use an artist's brush and put a bit of stain right on the filled area and do not wipe off the excess.

Make sure ALL the stain is dry before applying top coat. If the stain is even a little wet the top coat will "lift" the stain. Ask me how I know.


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## ianscot (Jan 6, 2021)

I'm planning on using a solid wood edge.

Re: shellac: Someone had suggested it on another forum post where I asked about finishing. Thank you for the warning.


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

Is this a plywood, Solis wood top?

Field joints, etc?


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## ianscot (Jan 6, 2021)

Maple plywood.

Field joint?

The counter sections are butted together with supports underneath glued and screwed.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

Hmm, is this just like shop furniture where you aren't concerned how it looks in a few months?


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## ianscot (Jan 6, 2021)

No, I'd like this to look nice for a long time. It may be my first big project, but I've put a lot of work into it.


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

So you already made the field joints and they aren't tight?


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## ianscot (Jan 6, 2021)

Yes, my mistake.


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## 1thumb (Jun 30, 2012)

scribe to fit if not painting.

stain grade takes more work


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## ianscot (Jan 6, 2021)

Scribing isn't an option at this point. I need to fill the gaps and then finish with something that will hold up and stay looking good under sewing and crafts.


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## 1thumb (Jun 30, 2012)

bondo, paint and do better next time


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

You might as well make a groove and fill it with an alternating piece of wood like walnut.


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## ianscot (Jan 6, 2021)

RE grooves: That's intriguing. How would you recommend making the cut since it's already assembled? A router?


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

Yes

It would help if we had pictures…


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## ianscot (Jan 6, 2021)

Here's a picture of the counter. This is where you all can shake your heads and say "What was he thinking?" The counter goes around three sides of the room so I can't pull it away from the wall.


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## TechTeacher04 (Mar 17, 2014)

Timbermate maple, lightly sand and then use Arm-R-Seal. It has better wear resistance to Poly or you could use lacquer. Being a work surface you want a hard wear resistant finish.

Remember the lessons you learn through this one and apply them to future projects. Good lucks


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## northwoodsman (Feb 22, 2008)

Considering it's use, a sewing center vs. a kitchen counter, I don't think it looks terrible. You good try a good quality filler to fill the voids. Don't go cheap. I found a product on Amazon called Famowood, it's a latex filler that comes in many different colors to match almost any wood. It's around $11- $12 for a few ounces but it's the best filler I have found in 40+ years of woodworking. I recently finished a large rolling barn door and it ended up with a good size chunk torn out it during transport (before finish was applied). I filled the void and sanded prior to applying a clear coat and it cannot be found. It was in a unique grain pattern so I filled the entire void with the lighter color first, let it dry then sanded it smooth. I then used a Dremel and cut some small grooves to match the darker grain pattern then went back with a color that matched the darker grained and filled in those grooves, let it dry and resanded. Perfection! It took less than 30 minutes total for the patch. Famowood colors are a REALLY good match to the different wood species.


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## ianscot (Jan 6, 2021)

Thanks, everyone, for your suggestions. I ended up routing out the seams and dropping in some contrasting hardwood. Now it looks like I meant to do this.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

Nice work! You'll be happier later on too as otherwise the seams would have turned ugly in a year or two.


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## Meisterburger (Jun 26, 2020)

Good solution to the problem. Nicely done


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