# How do I laminate 2 pressure treated 2x8s together?



## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

When the extension to my shop was built a pressure treated (pt) 2×8 was used as the bottom plate against the concrete slab. This piece extends across the doorway as a sill. To make a small ramp for moving heavy items into the shop I want to add an additional pt 2×6 and cut a slop in the two pieces.

I have cut a slope in the existing 2×8 and cut a new pt 2×6 with a slope to form the ramp.

My question is how do I glue an 4+ year old pt wood to a new pt wood that still feels damp? Since this is a doorway there is the possibility that the wood will be rained on. I have considered TightBond III, Epoxy, and J-B Weld. Suggestions?


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Polyurethane glue, such as Gorilla Glue. It needs moisture to activate, so the still wet new stuff won't be an issue. It's also waterproof once dry. Just make sure you have good mating surfaces and clamp the pieces together firmly. (Screwed together in this instance, most likely, will work fine, too)


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

PL400, Air Nailer or screws.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Is the new 2X6 addition going on INSIDE the doorway? or outside? If inside, you might be able to just screw it to the floor, butting it up against the existing 2X8.

If outside, I'd also just butt it against the 2X8 and secure it to the concrete with construction adhesive. I have had very good luck with this product. 
.
.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Construction adhesive.


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## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

> Is the new 2X6 addition going on INSIDE the doorway? or outside? If inside, you might be able to just screw it to the floor, butting it up against the existing 2X8.
> 
> - JoeinGa


Inside, but with the door open rain can come in.

Think of using two 2x to forma 4x (thick) with a slope cut into it. From 1/8 inch above the concrete sloping up to a full 3 inch thick.

I want some kind of glue because the edge is so thin.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

I'd use the adhesive (shown above) and glue it to the floor. Once the adhesive sets, it WONT let the boards separate.
You can also use the same adhesive to glue wood-to-wood. That stuff is STRONG !


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## dyfhid (Jun 4, 2015)

PL Premium. I've used that to glue pt to concrete still so stuck together it's like the wood grew out of the concrete.


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## Ghidrah (Jan 20, 2015)

PT doesn't care for glue up much, I'd suggest PL 400 or 200 under and between the 2 pieces then I'd run concrete lags into the floor to hold them down.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

I wouldn't glue it just Tapcon screw into concrete floor.

I'm curious why you have a plate running across a doorway?
What is it holding up?


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

I'd cut a piece of half inch plywood the width of the door and about 3 or 4 feet long and just place that down when you need to dolly something in. Much smoother approach angle that way.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

I agree with the construction adhesive. Really strong stuff and should last as long as the PT. There's a few recommendations above for Loctite's PL series of construction adhesive.


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## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

Thanks all! I will go with the Loctite PT construction adhesive.

dhazelton: I have used the plywood ramp for several years. It has always been problematic. As I prepare to add several multi-hundred pound tools (multi-thousand dollar) I want something better. I worry about a tool balanced on a jury rigged dolly going up a jury rigged ramp.


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## ChuckC (May 13, 2010)

A picture would help but I'm wondering why you have a plate running across a doorway in the first place?

Builders usually do that to keep the wall on both sides of the door square when they are building it (typically on the floor and then raised up). After the wall is raised they cut the plate out. I've done it myself and you may be able to do that here.


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## Ghidrah (Jan 20, 2015)

I've framed over concrete slabs many times and left the sill in place because the owner intended on using an old wooden threshold door, placing the door on a PT sill protects the threshold from water settling under it and rot. It also protects the lead or copper pan flashing from concrete abrasion for a much longer period than if it was in direct contact.


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