# Need Help- Target Coatings with Cross-Linker



## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

Today I made up some samples using Target Coatings EM6000, EM8000 and EM9300. I have sprayed lots of NC lacquer over the years, but this was my first attempt at shooting with water based products. I ran into an issue that I'm hoping one of the more experienced users of Target products can help me with.

My EM8000 and EM9300 samples came out full of tiny clear inclusions that are not dust or other typical shop contaminants. This photo shows the 9300 right after I shot the third coat.










Both coatings I mixed with 5% CL100 cross-linker, I stirred them thoroughly by hand, and let them sit for 1 hour before applying the first topcoat. I'm thinking these inclusions are due to insufficient mixing of the CL100 into the base topcoat but looking for thoughts from those more experienced with the Target products.

Here is a close up of one of the inclusions. This was shot through a 12x lupe and the rule in the image is graduated in 1/64's.










The EM6000 sample I shot came out beautiful. It layed down flat with negligible inclusions. I did not add and CL100 to the EM6000.

I'm thinking my issue is with the cross-linker. Tomorrow I plan to aggressively sand out the inclusions and re-shoot with just the 8000 and 9300, no cross-linker, to see if this helps.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Is it the cross-linker or something else?


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

Jeff Weiss from Target got back to me earlier today. The issue was with the mixing of the cross-linker into the finish. It must be added very slowly while mixing the base so it disperses completely. I must have added it too quickly.

After I sanded out the two sample boards to remove the nibs, I reapplied one coat and the finish came up beautiful.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Good to know, thanks for that. I would have never guessed that the speed at which you added the crosslinker would have caused that problem. But then, I had no idea what it might have been….so I kept my keyboard quiet. Glad you solved it.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Tung, the CL100 is pretty nasty stuff which Jeff may have mentioned. I usually add it a bit at a time, maybe a couple mls and stir rapidly for a minute or so, then add another couple mls. The hour waiting period is a minimum and longer won't hurt anything, even the night before isn't a bad idea. Once you get used to them the Target products are really nice and quite forgiving. FWIW


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

Art- I think for my use (non-commercial) the CL100 is overkill anyway. I'm spraying some samples today with a 1 lb cut shellac as a base to try to get the grain to pop a little more, topped with the 8000 and 9300 to see how they look. Without the CL100 they spray like a dream. Trying to get the look of an oil/varnish topcoat (like Arm-R-Seal) from a water based finish is proving tricky.


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Tung, you can use WR4000 (a linseed emulsion) that pops the grain and even add a bit of dye to it if you like. I like the CL100 for table tops for my personal home use, but don't use it otherwise.


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

thanks Art. I'll give that a try next if the shellac doesn't do the trick.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

I really like Target's products, and owner Jeff Weiss' availability for product support is invaluable. Try some honey amber Transtint mixed in the topcoat of choice to get the amber of oil based finishes. It will not help the lack of chatoyance that exists with all wb finishes. The WR4000 helps (I also like it because it provides more open time vs water or dna), but adding a coat of shellac is the best. If coloring the wood, the shellac seals the color and prevents lifting by the topcoat. The shellac can be tinted with transtint for a toner as well.


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

OSU- you hit exactly on my issue- trying to replicate the chatoyance of the of the oil based finishes. Even the samples I prepared with the cut shellac didn't come close to the Arm-R-Seal sample. I have a few more samples in the works that I plan to try with the Zinser Sealcoat un-cut.

What about applying a few light wiped coats of Arm-R-Seal them topcoating with the WB?


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Tung, pardon me if you've addressed this, but why not Waterlox? I know you're a fan of the product, and it's plenty durable for a tabletop.


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## ClammyBallz (Apr 16, 2015)

I pour the crosslinker in slowly while using a paint mixer and a drill, then mix for another minute or two. You can get these at lowes for $5.


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

Waterlox would probably be durable enough. It's just too hard to to wipe a table top this big and get an even finish. And I'd prefer something water based for safety reasons.

The mixer is a good idea. I only mixed up 50 ml in a beaker to spray a test sample so I hand mixed with a scrap of wood. I would use a mixer if I were mixing up a quart or two


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## ed13 (Nov 22, 2016)

Does anyone know if a similar thing can happen with the SA5 retarder when added to the EM6000 satin lacquer? I added 2 to 3 mL of SA5 into 150 mL of lacquer and then stirred by hand. It took about 5 minutes to add all 15 mL after which I stirred for a minute or so, then let it sit for at least an hour. When I sprayed, it looked like there were dust nibs all through the wet film, but I'm sure it isn't dust. When dry, it isn't awful, but I don't think it should look like this. Tomorrow, I'll try spraying just the EM6000 without the retarder.

Oh, this only happened with the satin. I had no problems spraying the gloss. I added the SA5 in exactly the same way to the gloss.

It may be something else altogether, and not the SA5 or EM6000.


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## ed13 (Nov 22, 2016)

Never mind. I think mine are air bubbles. Adjusting the gun is making a big difference.


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