# Cutting down a kitchen cabinet



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

My friends got a new fridge, AND wanted to yank the laminate countertop, and install granite tile.

I volunteered to help.

The countertop thing is moving along swimmingly.

The fridge is probably 1/2" too tall for the space under the upper cabinet. They figured it might be.

All the upper cabinet tops are at the same level on the wall, so … they're not keen on raising this one up, a skosh. They're hardwood cabinets-probably Oak-including the "aprons."

So … I want to cut down the bottom apron … by the needed +/- 1/2".

My thought ? Just bring it back to my house, and do the four cuts on the TS, with masking tape on the cut lines, and a very fine (80t ?) blade.

I also thought about the router table and a straight bit, or … just hogging it all off with the belt sander, and 80-grit paper, but … I keep coming back to the table saw.

Any thoughts about the "best" or "right" way ??

I'll check back, this evening … before I start in on it.

Thanks !


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## ellen35 (Jan 1, 2009)

Neil, this brings back memories of last year (I'm too old to remember much after that!)...
I had the same problem. The builder put in the wrong cabinet over my fridge and it limited the size of the fridge I could buy. I took the doors off, ran back and 2 sides through my table saw, dismantled the waste and re-attached the top. I turned it from a cabinet to an open shelf. Everyone who sees it likes it better that way… and a got a big honkin' refrigerator!
Table saw is the easiest way to go….
Ellen


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

If you can get it off the wall in good shape, that will be half the battle. I think sending it thru the table saw, or using guides on a circular saw will be the way to go. I am assuming you will be only removing the needed area from the "bottom" of the cabinet, which will not be too visible to the eye. Should work out, good luck.


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## Howie (May 25, 2010)

I would think you would have more control on the TS for this item.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

did this with my brother in D.C. 
over the phone
he couldn't take the cab down

tape off the face
cut close with jig saw

run router with straight edge offset 
with double tape

(or piloted template bit )
to clean up
and chisel in the corners

i guess it worked fine
i forgot to look when i was there
but the bigger fridge was nice


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

Keep in mind that most fridges require an air gap of 1" above the fridge for proper function since the condenser coils are on the back of the unit.

If you seal this tightly the fridge will not function correctly or have a shortened lifespan.

Most all appliance manufacturers have installation guidlines on thier website that state how much air gap they need.

Only true built-in fridges with front exhaust vents can be sealed tight to the cabinets.


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## dshort824 (Jan 12, 2011)

Hey Neil, depending on how much over hang the faceframe has you could just trim off at the bottom without running into the bottom shelf. However, watchout for unseen nail in the faceframe. Depending on how it was attached either with just glue, biscuits or nails you might run into that with a carbide tip and hurt the blade somewhat. Usually there is around a 1 to 1 1/2" of overhang on the bottom anyway so there should be enough room to trim. Just watch for appropriate air gaps for the fridge. The TS is the best way to trim it off. Just watch for metal on the way through. Good Luck.


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## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

Neil, check the leg levelers on the fridge. They usually can adjust +/- 1/2" up or down.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

I set most uppers above the fridge at 72". I have done the trim with a belt sander VERY CAREFULLY. Worked out well 'cause I couldn't take the stupid 12" deep uppers down w'out a major a$$ ache. Cab guys need to study the newer dims before design/install.
I appreciate your situation.
Bill


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Remove or adjust the leg levelers. If the fridge is on wheels.. remove them?


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

I would use framing square and mark the line on all four sides, and cut it with a circular saw.


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## ShopTinker (Oct 27, 2010)

I'm probably going to have to do the same thing when this fridge dies. The one the wife wants is to tall for the current opening. I wish you great success.

I'd go with the table saw if it's not to hard to take the cabinet down.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

I'd second Patron's advice: "run router with straight edge offset with double tape (or piloted template bit )
to clean up and chisel in the corners"...

Then a buddy to hold the vac close to the action for dust control. Good luck, Neil!


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

This is the kind of cut that is so quick and easy to do with a track saw, take it off, cut it, put it back up. 
If you haven't got a track saw, I would make a zero clearance guide for your circular saw and do it with that. Make scoring cuts first, then follow up full depth, clean up with block plane. To avoid break out, make the first cut right front to back, 2nd - left to right along the front, 3rd back to left front.


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## rhett (May 11, 2008)

Take a handsaw with a very thin blade, or hacksaw if you suspect metal fasteners, and cut the bottom rail where it meets the side stiles. Pop off the rail and reinstall at the proper height. No finishing, cutting or running a router above your head sideways.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Why take it down? They make tools for trimming cabinets…


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

I had the same problem on a cabinet I couldn't take down. I did this alteration by taking the doors off. Clamping a guide board to the face frames and using a PC laminate router with a down cut spiral bit. Finished off the cuts on the wall ends with a Japanese trim saw.


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## JJohnston (May 22, 2009)

I had to do the same with my brother's upper. I did exactly the same as tenontim.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Thanks so much, everybody.

The leveler legs had been screwed in as far as possible. I actually DID suggest possibly removing them, and just setting the fridge on furniture glides, but … that kind of went over like a fart in church ;-)

There was a pretty tense moment when I was SURE that paint was the only thing still holding the cabinet to the wall, and … rapped it with my dead blow hammer, but … it broke free, cleanly.

The winner was … table saw. Three sides. Very clean result-no sanding needed-with my WWII blade.

The fridge is NOT "in line," but is at the end of the cabinet run, meaning … one side is entirely open. I actually DID think about the ventilation thing. It was off by SO little that … the 1/2" we took off left a top-side gap of almost the entire 1/2". They don't plan to do anything that would close off the open side.

I also noticed that they had pocket screwed in the face frame (DING! DING ! Metal alert !), so … after removing those screws (exactly in my cut line), I ran my metal detector all around to be sure there were no other land mines. There weren't.

*Great comments, as always, so … many thanks.*

Today, I WILL bring my clamping straight-edge for the plywood and backer board substrates. It's pretty annoying to try to make straight cuts with hand tools, WITHOUT a good guide.

Gotta' go blow the cement out of my nose, and get loaded on coffee….

My new theory: watching Norm DOES make you a woodworker, and watching the DIY Network-equally-makes me a general contractor 

Cheers


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