# Help Preparing Fresh Cut Logs for Drying & Turning



## keith204 (Nov 5, 2013)

I just picked up some freshly cut soft maple. I plan on primarily using this wood as turning practice (I'm a n00b at woodturning) but I also might mill up some short lumber pieces for small boxes and toys.

I have a gallon of Rockler's end-grain sealer on hand. My guess is that now's the time to apply the sealer, and set the logs somewhere. However, some of the logs are huge, so these are my questions: Would you split or chop them up somehow? Particularly for the huge log…how would you prepare it for future bowl turning?

No particular projects are planned for this wood, other than practicing turning, and I'd like to have a grab bag of turnable stock. Perhaps bowls, toys, handles, and other things as I learn. So, feel free to give any advice you feel would help.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Keith would split the big logs and end seal, just end seal smaller logs. Would store wood in cool dry place out of the weather & direct sunlight.

I would rough turn your bowl blanks, when ready and set aside to dry. Many people end seal their roughed out bowl blanks. I do not.


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

The correct way to "split" the large pieces is with a chain saw. Cut down both sides of the pith/heart to eliminate that part, as that is where the cracking will start when it begins to dry out, then seal both ends.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Safest way to remove the pith from a log using a chain saw is build yourself a sawbuck. Will find many sawbuck designs on line.

I have used both X designed sawbuck and one in the link.

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/Turning/Chainsawing/Chainsawing2.html

A sawbuck only last me a couple of years before destroy it cutting logs.

No matter which designed sawbuck you use when cutting along the grain on both sides of pith do not want to cut all the way through a log. Would use an axe or wedge to separate pith from halves.

Found it easier and safer to just use my axe or maul to split logs. Pith does not always run straight through a log. If leave little pith on both sides of the log usually just end up turning it away.


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## RolfBe (Jun 7, 2013)

Bill,
Great link, I was using the " less slow technique" will use the fastest from now on. I also like the sawbuck.
Thanks


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## keith204 (Nov 5, 2013)

Thanks for the advice. Also, the sawbuck idea is brilliant.


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## keith204 (Nov 5, 2013)

Alright, I may be late, but I sawed up that huge log, and now I have a question for you:

With this log, how can I tell what's the pith area that I should remove? I feel like I'm going to be cutting away decent bowl material.

(one side of the log has started to check - the side that was facing upward in my truck. Hopefully it's not too far gone)



















and here's me… confused and not quite sure what this "outdoors" thing is… I've been inside too long recovering from wisdom teeth removal and have apparently become a hermit in the process.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

I hope this help explain it better than my rambling and rantings.

http://woodcentral.com/bparticles/log_to_lathe.shtml


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## keith204 (Nov 5, 2013)

ok, then it looks like I've already messed up then! However, that is another helpful link.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Can still cut away or turn away remaining pitch.

I have stood half log on end and slicing down log with my chain saw removing the pith. That op is not for the faint of heart.

Also trim a half log cutting corners off with a chain saw and mounting on lathe and removed the pith during roughing out.

When splitting logs with an axe or maul often have pith on both halves, Normally just remove it during roughing out a bowl blank.


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