# Dining table finish



## USMCSergeant (Jan 17, 2013)

I'm finishing up a maple burl live edge dining table, this is my first woodworking project and I am stumped as to finishing.



















The original plan was de-waxed shellac coated with poly, but on a test piece it really darkened and I didn't like it. My wife and I both like the look of the table as is, but I'd like to bring out the grain of the wood some. I'd like it to look as natural as possible.

Any suggestions to bring out the grain, without darkening the table overall? Easy finish also, again I'm very new to all of this! Thanks in advance.


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## Kelby (Oct 19, 2011)

Oil-based poly tends to darken a little more than water-based, but for the most part, the same things that bring out the grain also tend to darken the wood a bit.

Before you give up on the poly, try this: The darkening is a function of the poly's "sheen." It is reflecting the light. The more it reflects, the darker the wood looks, and the more visible the grain is. You can reduce the sheen with sandpaper or steel wool. The coarser the grit, the more you will reduce the sheen. I would recommend sanding the poly lightly with a 320 or 400 grit sandpaper. Keep in mind that the less sheen you have, the lighter the wood will be, but the less clear the grain will be also. If 320 or 400 grit is too rough (i.e., if the grain isn't clear enough), work your way up through the grits-600, 800, 1000, or even some 0000 steel wool. Each of those will give you progressively more sheen than the previous grit, although substantially less than you are starting with from a wet coat of poly.

Now, with all of that said, you also need to keep in mind one additional consideration: This is a dining table, and you need an extremely durable finish for that. I don't know what kind of poly you are using, but most finishes will not stand up well to the kind of abuse that a dining table gets. With many types of poly, leaving a glass of water on the table will result in a water ring on the table that is a huge pain to repair. For a long time, Behlen's Rock Hard Tabletop Varnish was the standard for finishing dining tables, although I couldn't tell you whether something newer and better has come out in the last few years. You might try some of that, and use the same approach of sanding through the grits until you get the sheen you want.


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

If it's going to be a heavily used dining table you may want to use poly for protection. I recently finished a much smaller project in curly maple. I used the Minwax "Natural" color of stain. It did darken the wood a bit, there's no denying it. But I think it made the grain much more visible and enhanced the look of the piece considerably. I then used their flat sheen wipe on poly. I find that a few coats of the non-gloss wipe on poly are less likely to make it look like it was dripped in plastic (my chief beef with poly).

If you want pretty good protection you could also try lacquer. One of the advantages of lacquer is that if you don't like it you can strip it off with lacquer thinner. That will be a messy and smelly process . But lacquer can be totally reversed if need be. I think shellac wouldn't work well on a dining table. Shellac is weak against water, alcohol, and heat.

I've tried water based poly once I didn't like it at all. That being said, it is the most "clear" of the finishes. That is, it will impart almost no color change to the wood. In theory, at least.

If you get something with a gloss sheen you can known down the sheen with steel wool. If you opt for a water based finish use synthetic steel wool.

You could also try the lightest color of Watco danish oil. It's very easy to put on. But I don't think it's terribly protective.


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

+1 for the water based finish changing the color the least. Not a big fan myself. All of the dining tables that I've made have been finished with 100% tung oil. About 8 coats of it. It has to be renewed every year, but it's a food safe finish and it's fairly water resistant. We use coasters on our table, to help keep wet glasses from standing on it, but the normal spills that happen on a dining table haven't caused any rings or spots. 
Start out with a 50-50 mix or tung oil and mineral spirits and work your way to pure tung oil for the final coat. You'll have to give it a couple of days between coats. It will give you a satin finish.


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## USMCSergeant (Jan 17, 2013)

I think you guys have talked me back into oil finish. In the past we use our dining table quite a bit for everything. Homework, sitting and talking, crafts..etc.. I like the natural minwax finish purrmaster posted. I'll try that with a few coats of poly.

This weekend I'm going to re-weld the legs. I'm just not happy with 3/16" and I'm gonna go up to 3/8" 3/16 is stable, and the table is solid supporting weight. But from the ends it looks very, very thin. I'm also going to switch out the 3/16" plate and go up to a 1/4" support plate underneath where the legs attach. Hopefully I'll have it finished in a couple of weeks.


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## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Pop the grain with the dewaxed shellac. Then use a water-borne poly. That's the best way I can think of to give a natural appearance, other than just leaving it naked.


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

I tend to agree with Cosmicsniper. The dewaxed shellac will probably pop the grain nicely. And then the poly will give protection.

I'm not sure pure tung oil will give you much protection. Coasters and such will help. I agree with tenontim's finishing schedule for the tung oil. His method is spot on.


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## JSilverman (Mar 31, 2011)

I agree with the shellac recommendation-it will keep it light (lighter than any oil containing finish) and then apply topcoats of a more durable finish. By using the shellac you will maintain the color better.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

I spray tabletops with 2 coats of pre-cat lacquer (Valspar brand). Dark wax is optional. I use howards walnut wax.


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## USMCSergeant (Jan 17, 2013)

Would thinning the shellac make it lighter? Maybe 2 lb cut into a 1 pound cut for example.

Busy day today. Re welding the legs in 3/8". So much grinding ahead of me! I didn't like the look of 3/16". Too thin. Should be ready to start the finish work in a few days.


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

You can use any cut of shellac you like. Might be best to start with a 1 pound cut and you can move up from there. You could snag the Zinsser Bullseye Seal Coat. It's dewaxed and you can thin it however you like. Just make sure you don't use non-dewaxed shellac as other coatings don't stick so well to it.


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

Forget the shellac; it just complicates the process without adding value. Nitrocellulose lacquer would be great if you can spray, otherwise waterborne poly floor finish will emphasize the grain without darkening the tone. If it's tough enough to dance on, it's tough enough to eat off of. I like Varathane or Bona Mega.


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

I am a lacquer guy, so I vote lacquer. Lots of thin coats, eight would be a minimum. Sand back after the third and sixth coats with 400. Apply #7 & 8 then hit with 800 or 1000. Several coats of paste wax and you are golden. The color will pop grain will jump.


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## GuyK (Mar 26, 2007)

I have to agree with the dewaxed shellac. Try a test with a 50/50 mix with Denatured Alcohol. It will lighten the color a little and also soak deeper into the wood. Sand with 400 grit lightly, then several coats of a water based poly.


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## Purrmaster (Sep 1, 2012)

If you don't have spray equipment you can still spray. You can get lacquer in rattle cans.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

Danish oil and then Epoxy coat


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## USMCSergeant (Jan 17, 2013)

Welding issue this weekend. Liner was rated for .030, and wouldn't accept .035 wire. 3/8" needs at least .035 to get a solid weld. I'll be picking up a new liner this week, finishing the weld and then I'll try this finish. I has been a frustrating weekend….


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## PeteMoss (Nov 24, 2008)

I don't know if this is totally applicable to your situation or not, but I recommend that you watch these two videos. The material kind of deals with making the grain stand out without affecting the overall piece. Keep in mine that if you went this route then you would still need to use the appropriate mostly clear topcoat to protect the table.

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/


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## USMCSergeant (Jan 17, 2013)

Thanks for those videos, I checked my local hardware store and couldn't find any wood dye.. I'm gonna go with 50/50 de waxed shellac and poly. I just want to get it finished at this point.


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## USMCSergeant (Jan 17, 2013)

shellac with one coat of poly so far










Welded new legs out of thicker material


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## mark88 (Jun 8, 2009)

u seem to have figured it out. love the shine!


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

Beautiful! I really like the stripes. What are the final dimensions?


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## JonathanG (Jan 18, 2010)

That's a wonderful looking table! I'm sure you're ready to put it to good use, and it appears that time will be soon. Way to hang in there and work through it.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

That is one beautuful table top! And the finish is looking great.


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## GuyK (Mar 26, 2007)

It looks great. Good Job. It always amazes me how the shellac makes the grain pop.


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## USMCSergeant (Jan 17, 2013)

Thanks guys.


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## USMCSergeant (Jan 17, 2013)

It's 76" x 36-40" depending in the section, and with legs attached 30" tall


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Nice looking table.
If you are frustruated with the extended dry time of poly, try spraying pre-cat lacquer on your next project. I sprayed poly on my new front door, and it took about 8 hours to dry in a heated shop. The pre-cat lacquer (I use Valspar brand) dries to the touch in 15 minutes, and can be scuff sanded within an hour. 
On the dining tables I have built I used 2 coats of lacquer, sprayed with a simple gravity feed HVLP gun. Finally I wax them with #0000 steel wool.

Great project!


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## USMCSergeant (Jan 17, 2013)

I am terrible with finishing and on my next table I want to spray finish. Thanks for the info pintodelux! Shellac was hard for me to work with because it dries so fast, especially on a big project like this one. Poly doesn't look great now that its dry, I'm going to sand, 0000 steel wool and put on 3 more coats. I've thinned it so it will wipe on.


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## GuyK (Mar 26, 2007)

Sergeant, the trick to shellac is keeping the edge wet so it remains one continous coat. Shellac does dry fast so you have to keep moving with your brush. Spraying water based poly is the way to go, it is very forgiving and the finish is fantastic. Good luck, I hear the frustration in your voice. Keep at it, it won't be long till you are teaching us.


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## USMCSergeant (Jan 17, 2013)

Finally finished, thanks for the advice and encouragement!


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## rrww (Aug 12, 2012)

Wow looks great!


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## GuyK (Mar 26, 2007)

That is beautiful. Pat yourself on the back, you did a great job.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Absolutely stunning! You did a super job on both the build and the finishing. Anyone would be proud to own that table!


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## USMCSergeant (Jan 17, 2013)

Thanks again everyone, it's been a fun project. Ready to do another.


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## joseph000 (Nov 6, 2012)

Nice dining table.A solid wood dining table with a good finish on it will serve you through the bumps and knocks of a busy family life and become your heirloom years later. So, the table should be durable, well-built and have a quality finish.


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## annabanana (Apr 24, 2013)

Like the OP, I am also making a live edge table for my home for my first time. I came across this post when trying to figure out what finish to use. In my search I found this great 2 page guide w/ charts etc. Super helpful. I hope it's help others who are taking on their first diy project w/ woodworking.

http://woodanswers.com/documents/FinishingGuide.pdf


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## USMCSergeant (Jan 17, 2013)

Thanks annabanana, I'm going to print that out and put it on the shop wall. Good info


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