# Gettin' fixina tune up my Unisaw



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Initial photos and videos*

I bought this table saw from my boss for $500. I thought it was the one we used to use before we got the SawStop but he said no that was a bigger 5hp monster. Turns out we bought this one used two years ago and have never even powered it up. Fun stuff.


First impressionhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


Safety Labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


Unifence, among other thingshttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


Unifencehttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


Miter gaugehttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


52" Unifence railhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


HTC Mobile basehttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


Rail pulled away from extension table boardhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


Unifence rail is droopinghttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


Cleaned up a littlehttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


Switch Boxhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


Need a new cursorhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


"Rusty Blade" sounds like a action figurehttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


Need a splitterhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite





No 220 outlets here.





If you are electrically inclinded.


----------



## Rick Dennington (Aug 27, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Initial photos and videos*
> 
> I bought this table saw from my boss for $500. I thought it was the one we used to use before we got the SawStop but he said no that was a bigger 5hp monster. Turns out we bought this one used two years ago and have never even powered it up. Fun stuff.
> 
> ...


Hey Bothus: Looks like you got a good start on the saw just by gettin' her cleaned up a little.
She sure was a mess. Why would anyone let a good saw like that get that way?
A little TLC (maybe a lot), and she'll be purrin' away. Looks like a replacement table board is in order.
Can't wait for the final results. I have a new Unisaw w/ a Biesemeyer fence and 52" rip. I really like it alot.
You're gonna like this one too, I bet. Happy endeverors.


----------



## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Initial photos and videos*
> 
> I bought this table saw from my boss for $500. I thought it was the one we used to use before we got the SawStop but he said no that was a bigger 5hp monster. Turns out we bought this one used two years ago and have never even powered it up. Fun stuff.
> 
> ...


You should like that saw. I have pretty much the same thing. How is that mobile base?I have the Delta brand base. It's crap. Welcome to LJ!


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Initial photos and videos*
> 
> I bought this table saw from my boss for $500. I thought it was the one we used to use before we got the SawStop but he said no that was a bigger 5hp monster. Turns out we bought this one used two years ago and have never even powered it up. Fun stuff.
> 
> ...


Hey Rick, sorry I didn't answer sooner. I thought I did but I see I didn't. I am loving the saw. I can't wait to get it finished. I cut a replacement board already but then I decided to take the whole thing apart and check it out. I'm no expert so I am relying on you LJ's to help me through this.

Hi Hairy, I'm not sure how the HTC base is because I don't have anything to compare it to. In part 2 (or 3) of this blog thread there is a video where I turn it upside down a show the casters. They are 2 1/2" diameter and 1 1/4" wide. They are pretty beat up so i just ordered new ones from McMaster-Carr. BTW the way, I love the paraphasing of Monty Python in you signature.

;;
J


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*A few more photos, videos and status report*


Unisaw serial number labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


Unisaw motor serial number labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
















I welcome everyone's comments and suggestions. This is my first Unisaw. It's my first cabinet saw for that matter.

I haven't a clue what should be done or how to do it but here's an update.

Last night I got on ebay and bought a new set of Delta belts. I saw a lot of link belt advertised but I've never tried those so I thought I would stick with the original design for now. Maybe I'll try a link belt on my old craftsman TS.

I also bought a new cursor for the Unifence and a used Delta Stacked Dado Blade ('cause I don't have one and once I get started on ebay…)

In addition I bid on a new splitter and blade guard.

Today after work I will cut a new table board. I plan to make it a router table. Looks like the previous owner had done that as well.

Other than that I haven't decided how far I want to go with this project. I originally figured I would just tune it up and start using it but now I am thinking maybe I should do a complete tear down and rebuild.

I was thinking maybe I would strip it completely apart and repaint everything, replace everything that needed it and then put it all back together.

Not sure yet.

Last night my wife said she wished I had bought a SawStop. I explained to her that I only paid $500 for this (so far not counting ebay) and I SawStop would be $3,000 or more. I would love to have a SawStop. I've never seriously hurt myself and I have a great respect for power tools but I plan to keep woodworking until I'm old and grey(er) and you never know what can happen so I wouldn't mind having that extra saftey feature.

Then I thought maybe I should completely restore this saw, sell it and put the proceeds toward a SawStop.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Okay now some questions for all of you:

What is the best way to clean/polish the cast iron table top? You can see in one of the videos that it has a pretty big stain on it.

How far would YOU go in fixing this Unisaw up and why?

If I decide to disassemble it completely how big of a job is that time wise?

Finally, having seen the photos and videos is there anything that jumps out at you that should be addressed regardless of which route I decide to take?

I can't wait to hear your comments. Seriously I can't wait, so say something even if it is just "Hi".

I'll post more when I can.

;;
J


----------



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *A few more photos, videos and status report*
> 
> 
> Unisaw serial number labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


fix it up ,
get to work ,
pay attention !

enjoy .


----------



## rtb (Mar 26, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *A few more photos, videos and status report*
> 
> 
> Unisaw serial number labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


I think I would be doing a lot of disassembling and cleaning, you will have to decide about painting. Certainly new belts, lubricating any thing that appears to be a friction point. For cast iron I prefer (and this is highly debatable)fine sandpaper on a ROM sander and then working up through the grits to remove the fine scratches. At 600 and up its more like polishing. If you use this method be sure to wipe the table to remove residue from the previous grit. The fine grit sand paper clogs very easily. Good luck and continue with the great blogs.


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *A few more photos, videos and status report*
> 
> 
> Unisaw serial number labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


I saw an older style Unisaw there was the before and after picture. It had been compleltely re-done. Send some more pictures as you go along through the process.


----------



## Neodogg (Jan 6, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *A few more photos, videos and status report*
> 
> 
> Unisaw serial number labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


I think you should give it to me, I'd love to have an Unisaw to fix up! I'd restore the whole thing, looks like you have a good foundation to start with. Replace the belts, check all the bearings, and lube it up. I agree with rtb about the using sandpaper on the top and when done put a couple coats of Johnson Past Wax. Best of luck, and I'll be looking forward to the drop off, service and deliveries use the back of the house.


----------



## ratchet (Jan 12, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *A few more photos, videos and status report*
> 
> 
> Unisaw serial number labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


My opinion is that the biggest danger (for most of us) is kickback with a TS, not running flesh through the blade. Keep the guard on or get an overarm guard if thats your concern. Does the SawStop alleviate kickback better than other saws of similar price? Nope, and as such a case could be made that for the price the SS is less safe. All this has been debated before - ad nauseum.

My intention is not to demotivate you but it seems as though you are trying to be convinced into doing the long, sometimes tediously hard work of restoring an older cabinet saw. If that is the case IMHO you will never complete a full restoration and may become frustrated with it. I may be wrong but if true, you might consider simply getting it cleaned up, functioning well, and either using it or selling it.

It seems to me that the guys that are successful at doing these restorations arethe ones that enjoy the process of doing it along the way and get satisfaction from acheiving each step as well as just having the finished project.

If you do find the necessary motivation, and are inclined to spend the time to complete a full restoration I commend you (and will stand corrected). I am hoping you will ultimately prove me wrong, and would very much like to follow along with your re-build.

Please view these comments with their intent as being helpful and not derisive.
Good luck however you decide to go with it.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *A few more photos, videos and status report*
> 
> 
> Unisaw serial number labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


Ratchet, thank you for your well thought out reply.

You make a good point about the SS. No need to start up the debate again so I'll just leave it at that.

You are also right on the mark about the restoration, not that I was trying to be convinced into it necessarily but I am very concerned that if it takes too long I would never finish it.

I typically go full steam ahead on a project for about 2 months then my back goes out so I take a month off and then one thing leads to another… (did I mention the kid's wedding present was 2 months late?).

This is why I asked the question about how long someone thought it might take. If somebody responded and said "I've done 6 of these, the first one took 5 months but now I can do them in 1 month with my eyes closed…" that would allow me to make a somewhat informed decision.

So the plan at this point is to go over and start taking it apart later this afternoon. I will keep you all in the loop and will decide as I go (with my fellow LJer's helpful advice) how far I go with it.

;;
J


----------



## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *A few more photos, videos and status report*
> 
> 
> Unisaw serial number labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


Hmmm, where to start…

I agree about blade guards, don't use one myself. I would rather have better view of where the blade is.

I agree about SawStop, 'nuff said!

Cleaning the table - I used naval jelly (phosphoric acid) and plastic scratchy pads (scotch-brite?). This left the original machining marks. I don't like the idea of sandpaper, but many others have done that. I have since discovered Evap-o-rust (I love everything but the name) and I will use it instead of naval jelly if I ever do it again. It worked wonders on some old hand-planes I have. See OWWM for a detailed description of how to clean and restore a rusty table.

How far to go? Well, just as far as you want. The paint on my old saw was still good, nothing was too rusty underneath, so I stopped at a table cleaning. If the bearings are good and tight with little to no runout at the arbor, why even take the top off? The size of the cast iron trunnions in Unisaws, there can't possibly be enough rust to affect the operation of the saw. Clean all the sawdust out and use it.

DO, however, realign the saw. As mentioned here before, I think misalignment is more dangerous than anything else, leading to kickbacks.

And pictures, lotsa pictures - I love watching old arn get restored.


----------



## Gpops (Dec 20, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *A few more photos, videos and status report*
> 
> 
> Unisaw serial number labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


Hey, talk about safety! put a cover on that electrical panel before you back a pipe clamp into it. Or maybe with the insurance money you can buy a saw stop :-}. ENJOY THE REBUILD


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *A few more photos, videos and status report*
> 
> 
> Unisaw serial number labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


Excellent point Gpops. That cover should not have been left off for any amount of time.

Good thing you didn't notice I put 10AWG wire on 60 amp breaker… don't try that at home… I think a 10 awg wire would probably melt before a 60 amp breaker tripped.


----------



## mikethetermite (Jun 16, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *A few more photos, videos and status report*
> 
> 
> Unisaw serial number labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


On cleaning the tabletop.
Try a bottle of Rust Free- Rust and stain remover. Work it in with a scratchpad like the kind you use to clean pots and pans. Rockler and WoodCrafters and others sell Rust Free. Works great, but be sure to clean cast iron with soap and water after using Rust Free. Then seal with wood wax etc…
If it is not cleaned well, it keeps on working and you will end up with white spots on your cast iron.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *A few more photos, videos and status report*
> 
> 
> Unisaw serial number labelhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


Thats going to be a nice saw for you, I have a Unisaw and I love my.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Disassemble! (Don't worry Johnny 5 you're safe)*


Starting out about 2PMhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


I will start by removing this melamine tophttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


Fortunately there aren't too many screws to remove most of them stripped out long agohttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


See what I mean?http://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


I don't like the way the frame is designed. Without the wood top there is nothing supporting the end of the Uniframe railhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


So I removed the rail next. In hindsight, I should have removed it first. Although no harm was done.http://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


It's getting lighter.http://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite





Removing the left extension table.





One piece at a time.





Not as rusty as it looks.





The Little Woman Called.





I got the top off.


Unisaw with top removed.http://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite


Unisaw with top removed showing motor.http://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite





I wanna get the saw out of the base.





It's all about leverage.





My boss is a man of his word.





If you can hear the bearings… is that a bad thing?





Oh, THAT's what that wire is for…





Securing the power cord.





Running the motor with no load.





Listen to this motor, please.

Well I finished working on it for the day abouit 5PM. That's 3 hours in total. It took a heck of a lot longer than that to get this blog entry done. I wish I could have done it right from my iPhone as I was doing the work… hmmm, maybe I couild have to my mobile me account?

At any rate I bought a splitter and blade guard on ebay last night for $33. I guess I will need to start keeping track of these expenses to find out how much this $500 saw is really costing me.

;;
J


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Disassemble! (Don't worry Johnny 5 you're safe)*
> 
> 
> Starting out about 2PMhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


This is a pretty nice blog series. I have been following your posts and on this one I enjoyed the clip with your conversation with your wife. Some of the comments sound familiar.


----------



## PCorl (Feb 23, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Disassemble! (Don't worry Johnny 5 you're safe)*
> 
> 
> Starting out about 2PMhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


Keep up the good work. I am really enjoying you posts. Great blog.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Disassemble! (Don't worry Johnny 5 you're safe)*
> 
> 
> Starting out about 2PMhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


Thanks for the feedback guys.

I actually wasn't done with this blog entry last night. It took forever to get all the videos uploaded. I added seven more this morning.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Disassemble! (Don't worry Johnny 5 you're safe)*
> 
> 
> Starting out about 2PMhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


Hah! I took my iPhone apart last night to replace the broken glass. The web site where I bought the glass described the process as "Difficult". That sounded like a challenge to me and besides, I could save 50 bucks and a drive to Sacramento. My wife was ready to kill me.

I was really sweating it because the phone wouldn't turn on the first time I tried. I had to disassemble it again and re-seat a cable. The lovely Linda was ready for her "I told you so you idi.." speech but I pulled it off in the nick of time.

BTW, I wouldn't recommend that any Lumberjock try to fix an iPhone. There are a lot of little teeny tiny parts in there and when the web site describes the procedure as "Difficult" they aren't kidding.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Disassemble! (Don't worry Johnny 5 you're safe)*
> 
> 
> Starting out about 2PMhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


Dude! I need to know the URL for the website where you buy replacement glass.

I recently gave a new meaning to the term "Dropped call".


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Disassemble! (Don't worry Johnny 5 you're safe)*
> 
> 
> Starting out about 2PMhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


http://www.ifixit.com/

But don't tell your wife where you got it. LA is too close to Chico.

(Address witheld for personal safety)


----------



## TheCaver (Nov 21, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Disassemble! (Don't worry Johnny 5 you're safe)*
> 
> 
> Starting out about 2PMhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


Me too, I've been using my cracked screen for a long time now pontificating the replacement procedure. I'm actually more electronically inclined than I am with wood, so I may attempt it too…..What kind of idiots would use glass in a cell phone….stupid stupid stupid. If only there were another phone with true, full internet….maybe a Palm Pre is in my future….

Oh and good luck with the Unisaw!

JC


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Disassemble! (Don't worry Johnny 5 you're safe)*
> 
> 
> Starting out about 2PMhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


a) That phone call vid was classic!

b) Sounds like your wife knows you pretty darned well. That's cool. Unfortunately, it sounds like she's also pretty darned smart. You're screwed 

c) In terms of your "good dress shirt," here's where you made your only big mistake: honey? I've checked. The stripes on this lovely garment are /absolutely parallel/. Rather than use the try square, rafter square, combination square, or any other inelegant solution to align the relevant saw parts, all I need to do is lay the shirt down in a couple of key places, and I know-immediately-whether or not everything's true!

d) Looks like you're doing a great job. Look forward to seeing how this one turns out!


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Disassemble! (Don't worry Johnny 5 you're safe)*
> 
> 
> Starting out about 2PMhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


The sound the motor is making is NORMAL!! That is the centrifugal switch!!


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Disassemble! (Don't worry Johnny 5 you're safe)*
> 
> 
> Starting out about 2PMhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


ChicoWoodNut: Lucky for youi, the misses says it's too hot in Chico, so you are safe.

TheCaver: Thanks for the well wishes.

NBeener: Yeah, that phone video cracked me up when I watched it back. You're a funny guy. I can't wait 'till the misses reads your comments.

Ken: Thank you for the info about the centrifugal switch.

How could I have lived this long and not known this… maybe I knew and forgot. So do you think I should replace the motor bearings?

What about the arbor bearings?

Thanks for all your good feedback.

;;
J


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Disassemble! (Don't worry Johnny 5 you're safe)*
> 
> 
> Starting out about 2PMhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


If it were MY saw I think I would replace them. You have the saw apart far enough that doing it now its easy. My fear would be getting everything all back together and have an arbor bearing freeze and spin ruining a perfectly good arbor. The bearings are cheap, less then $20, an arbor is over $200. The motor bearings are easy to do, the link I sent earlier will walk you through the process. A new replacement uni motor is about $500. I think I paid $12 ffor the pair of bearings.


----------



## doyoulikegumwood (Jun 21, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Disassemble! (Don't worry Johnny 5 you're safe)*
> 
> 
> Starting out about 2PMhttp://picasaweb.google.com/jboshear/Unisaw?authkey=Gv1sRgCOK58MSQ3sPjEQ&feat=embedwebsite
> ...


i have to agree with ken on this one replace all the bearings you have the saw apart and you will only have 60 to 80 bucks into it well worth the investment


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Take only memories, leave only footprints*

Today I went into the shop to put the tools and equipment I used back where they go for the guys when they come into work on Monday morning… but I had to do just a little work. I'm not hooked or anything, I only work when I really, really need it.





















I ordered replacement wheels for the HTC mobile base. I should have them on Monday.


----------



## Phred (Mar 18, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Take only memories, leave only footprints*
> 
> Today I went into the shop to put the tools and equipment I used back where they go for the guys when they come into work on Monday morning… but I had to do just a little work. I'm not hooked or anything, I only work when I really, really need it.
> 
> ...


If I had to take a guess, I would say that your "Boss" is for mounting a power switch?


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Take only memories, leave only footprints*
> 
> Today I went into the shop to put the tools and equipment I used back where they go for the guys when they come into work on Monday morning… but I had to do just a little work. I'm not hooked or anything, I only work when I really, really need it.
> 
> ...


I am not 100% but I think your hole is for mounting a brett guard. The guard is available from Delta as an option and is an overarm blade guard/dust collection port.


----------



## ArtistryinWood (Apr 21, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Take only memories, leave only footprints*
> 
> Today I went into the shop to put the tools and equipment I used back where they go for the guys when they come into work on Monday morning… but I had to do just a little work. I'm not hooked or anything, I only work when I really, really need it.
> 
> ...


You are correct Phred http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/ee353/LivingWoodCreations/Boss001.jpg

Andrew


----------



## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Take only memories, leave only footprints*
> 
> Today I went into the shop to put the tools and equipment I used back where they go for the guys when they come into work on Monday morning… but I had to do just a little work. I'm not hooked or anything, I only work when I really, really need it.
> 
> ...


Man your cable looks well chewed up maybe time for a replacement nice saw though pity about poor pictures have SAFE fun Alistair


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Take only memories, leave only footprints*
> 
> Today I went into the shop to put the tools and equipment I used back where they go for the guys when they come into work on Monday morning… but I had to do just a little work. I'm not hooked or anything, I only work when I really, really need it.
> 
> ...


Thanks all.

Phred, youi were right. I thought that might be the case but I wasn't sure.

Ken, I thought about that too but this boss ends up in the front of the saw so I didn't really think that was it.

Andrew, the link you sent explained it perfectly (although hard to see).

Alistar, I see what you mean about that cable. I am not even sure what that is. I think it is an air hose.

The pictures/videos are bad because I didn't turn the lights on since a was only going to be there a few minutes and the building has skylights.

Thanks again for looking.

;;
J


----------



## kosta (Mar 20, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Take only memories, leave only footprints*
> 
> Today I went into the shop to put the tools and equipment I used back where they go for the guys when they come into work on Monday morning… but I had to do just a little work. I'm not hooked or anything, I only work when I really, really need it.
> 
> ...


where is the video


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Take only memories, leave only footprints*
> 
> Today I went into the shop to put the tools and equipment I used back where they go for the guys when they come into work on Monday morning… but I had to do just a little work. I'm not hooked or anything, I only work when I really, really need it.
> 
> ...


Sorry about that kosta. I'm not sure what happened but I fixed it by moving the videos to youtube. I had them on picasa before. I guess it couldn't handle them.

Thanks for stopping by.

;;
J


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*It's a sad day...*

... I didn't get to work on my project today. But I was able to pay it a visit anyway.


The darker green is the bracket that I painted with Rust-o-lium. The color is called Verde Green with a "Hammered" finish. It looks nice but it is not a perfect match to the original Unisaw color.


The color changes slightly depending on the light. Sometimes it looks like a good match, sometimes not.


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *It's a sad day...*
> 
> ... I didn't get to work on my project today. But I was able to pay it a visit anyway.
> 
> ...


The Rust-Oleum verde is a closer match to Powermatic. I have found that the Rust-oleum smoke gray #7786 is much closwer to the original color. If you want to get a perfect match try this


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *It's a sad day...*
> 
> ... I didn't get to work on my project today. But I was able to pay it a visit anyway.
> 
> ...


It can be fix.


----------



## WoodyWoodWrecker (Jul 1, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *It's a sad day...*
> 
> ... I didn't get to work on my project today. But I was able to pay it a visit anyway.
> 
> ...


You'll never notice the slight color difference once it's covered in saw dust. Good luck!


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *It's a sad day...*
> 
> ... I didn't get to work on my project today. But I was able to pay it a visit anyway.
> 
> ...


I personally like the new paint color better.


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *It's a sad day...*
> 
> ... I didn't get to work on my project today. But I was able to pay it a visit anyway.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the update on the Unisaw. I like the video, that was great! Keep us posted.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *It's a sad day...*
> 
> ... I didn't get to work on my project today. But I was able to pay it a visit anyway.
> 
> ...


I hope you get to work on the saw today. I am sure you are anxious to finish this project and get the saw in your shop.


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *It's a sad day...*
> 
> ... I didn't get to work on my project today. But I was able to pay it a visit anyway.
> 
> ...


Heh Scott, how do you like your Sawstop?


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *It's a sad day...*
> 
> ... I didn't get to work on my project today. But I was able to pay it a visit anyway.
> 
> ...


Thanks to all for your advice and comments.

I thought about the fact that once it was covered in sawdust I wouldn't notice the color difference. And I actually like the Verde Green color a little better too, but I HAVE to restore it to as close to original as I can. It's just the way I am (I joined a Chevy Avalanche truck club and they nicknamed me "What's Wrong With Stock?").

I guess it like a tick. Anyway, that's why I ordered the original belts instead of link belts even though everything I have read about them says they are better.

Yeah Scott, how do you like your SawStop?


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *It's a sad day...*
> 
> ... I didn't get to work on my project today. But I was able to pay it a visit anyway.
> 
> ...


I can't wait to see the Unisaw finished!


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Another sad day...*

Since I was out of the office today I didn't get to work on my Unisaw again… well maybe just for a minute.





I can't work on it again today.





La Jolla can wait two minutes…





Painting the bracket again.





I stopped at Rockler





A matter of personal preference.

The thing about recording videos with your iPhone is that if you get a call it just stops recording in mid-sentence.


This paint is too gray.


I think I will have to buy a can from Delta.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Another sad day...*
> 
> Since I was out of the office today I didn't get to work on my Unisaw again… well maybe just for a minute.
> 
> ...


Either color is pretty sharp … providing it's consistent. You want "original," though, huh?

Wish I'd been on LJ (LumberJocks) a year or so ago. Just about to celebrate my 1yr anniversary of moving TO Colorado FROM San Diego (most recently, University Heights-near Park/Adams). Lived in SD for half my liife.

All the best. Thanks for sharing the updates. Going well!


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Another sad day...*
> 
> Since I was out of the office today I didn't get to work on my Unisaw again… well maybe just for a minute.
> 
> ...


You are right NBeener. I do want "original".

I think everyone who join LJ wishes they had done it sooner for one reason or another, I know I do.

It would have been cool if you were still in SD though, I could have stopped by and toured your shop. I guess I could do that now on LJ… oh, I see you haven't posted pics of it yet. Well, get busy man!

How do you like CO?


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Another sad day...*
> 
> Since I was out of the office today I didn't get to work on my Unisaw again… well maybe just for a minute.
> 
> ...


A tour of my shop takes about 4.3 seconds <grin>. Pretty new at all of this, but … taking to it with a vengeance! I'm gonna' have to borrow a few things before I put any shop pics up. LOL!

CO is a pretty cool place to live. If you've never lived in four-seasons (usually means snow country), that might be tough, but … since I like to ski, snowshoe, and winter camp … it works out. Plus, 5,000' elevation and 300 days/year of sun mean it's rarely too cold.

Mountains are beautiful. People are friendly.

No traffic.

Affordable housing.

Did I mention … no traffic? ;-)

Got my Bosch 4100DS set up today. A new table saw is a beautiful thing!


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*The week in review...*

First of all I just added a couple of videos to yesterday's blog entry that I didn't have time to upload last night.






Second of all… there is no second of all.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *The week in review...*
> 
> First of all I just added a couple of videos to yesterday's blog entry that I didn't have time to upload last night.
> 
> ...


It does mount up fast, doesn't it? Good idea on the gift for your wife.

By the way, if you don't have them already, have you also considered adding in some saw blades and a dado set? ( I am sure that spending more money is probably the last thing you want to consider right now).


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *The week in review...*
> 
> First of all I just added a couple of videos to yesterday's blog entry that I didn't have time to upload last night.
> 
> ...


If the trunnion bearing you purchased is bronze, I believe there are 2, I would leave those alone and not worry about them. I have seen unisaws all the way back to '39 with the original bronze trunnion bearings in place. They are not a high wear item and are a press fit. The odds of beaking the trunnion bracket are very high if you attempt to press them in/out. If you dont have a parts breakdown of the trunnion/arbor assembly I would most definately get one and familiarize yourself with the assembly PRIOR to disassembly. There are some small spring washers and there could be some hidden fasteners that you may not see if there is a lot of old caked on sawdust. Also look at the orientation of the arbor bearings as they are removed. They should have an extended inner race on one side.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Take the good with the bad*

It wasn't a very productive day as far as getting any work done on my Unisaw but it was very exciting.







So it came with a surprise (to me anyway)


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Take the good with the bad*
> 
> It wasn't a very productive day as far as getting any work done on my Unisaw but it was very exciting.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the update! Something to look at after you get your Saw back together. 
The Excalibur or the Delta Uniguard System. Pretty cool.. Excalibur acts as a guard and dust collection system. I like the Delta Uniguard because each blade guard acts independently.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Take the good with the bad*
> 
> It wasn't a very productive day as far as getting any work done on my Unisaw but it was very exciting.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the update. I can understand your frustration about work interfering with refurbishing the saw. But it is coming together nicely. Looking forward to the next update.


----------



## doyoulikegumwood (Jun 21, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Take the good with the bad*
> 
> It wasn't a very productive day as far as getting any work done on my Unisaw but it was very exciting.
> 
> ...


wow both fences i find both to have their pros and cons but i love the unifence so that's what i have the big downfall with the uni is attaching jigs and fixtures to it but i usually make my fixtures so that i can remove the extruded aluminum fence and attach them to the head peace of the system i also have extra rails for it so i can use the head elsewhere in the shop. but for if simple and straight forward is what you want the bysmier is the way to go. you can just build things to slip over it. your makeing good progress on the saw its well worth the wait i was in your same boat a few short months ago and have to say i love my "new to me" saw keep up the good work.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Take the good with the bad*
> 
> It wasn't a very productive day as far as getting any work done on my Unisaw but it was very exciting.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the update.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Take the good with the bad*
> 
> It wasn't a very productive day as far as getting any work done on my Unisaw but it was very exciting.
> 
> ...


Good fences make good neighbors.

You should be all set ;-)


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Take the good with the bad*
> 
> It wasn't a very productive day as far as getting any work done on my Unisaw but it was very exciting.
> 
> ...


Hi BWW and Neil,

Thanks for stopping by and commenting. I haven't been able to finish this project yet and I suspect if I ever got the time it would only take two more days.

Jerry


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Saving the top*

First let me say I'm not very impressed with DeWaltServiceNet.com. I couldn't order online because of a technical problem on their website so I called the Service Center in Anaheim, CA. They were great on the phone, very nice and polite, took the order and told me I should have it in 5-7 business days.

That was only 4 days ago so I didn't expect it yet but I called this morning just get a tracking number in case it was on the truck for delivery and I wasn't going to be here. They were still very nice but after putting me on hold they came back and said it just shipped from the warehouse yesterday. I asked for a tracking number and they didn't have one… which makes me think maybe it didn't ship yesterday but they are gonna get it out today so…

The other thing about them is I called them two days ago about ordering a can of paint to match my saw. They said no problem took the info and then put me on hold. They came back and said someone would be calling me back that day… I'm still waiting.

Thirdly, we use them here at the shop too and the shop manager warned me about them.

So that is three strikes in my book. I will use them again only as a last, last, last resort.

But now on to happier things. I got to work on my Unisaw project today. Fun stuff. Check out the videos below.





Rainforest.





Where da hail did you get those glasses? You look like yo Aint Bea in Shreveport.





Scrubbing away.





.
Top Saver first pass





Top Saver 3





Honey!





Top Saver summary


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Saving the top*
> 
> First let me say I'm not very impressed with DeWaltServiceNet.com. I couldn't order online because of a technical problem on their website so I called the Service Center in Anaheim, CA. They were great on the phone, very nice and polite, took the order and told me I should have it in 5-7 business days.
> 
> ...


The top of the saw is looking pretty good. I think you chose the right route to go on this clean-up. Electrolysis would have been less labor intensive but you would have had a hard time finding a container big enough in which to submerse the top. And, for that volume of rust, it would have taken awhile to complete the rust removal.


----------



## doyoulikegumwood (Jun 21, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Saving the top*
> 
> First let me say I'm not very impressed with DeWaltServiceNet.com. I couldn't order online because of a technical problem on their website so I called the Service Center in Anaheim, CA. They were great on the phone, very nice and polite, took the order and told me I should have it in 5-7 business days.
> 
> ...


if you want to get it a little cleaner i used navel jelly on mine and it worked wonders for the dinge areas i think electrolysis would be a bit over bored for what you have there.


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Saving the top*
> 
> First let me say I'm not very impressed with DeWaltServiceNet.com. I couldn't order online because of a technical problem on their website so I called the Service Center in Anaheim, CA. They were great on the phone, very nice and polite, took the order and told me I should have it in 5-7 business days.
> 
> ...


I agree with Scott , the top is looking great. Electrolysis is a lot less labor intensive but its also very slow. You dont stike me as a very patient person…..lol Make sure you get some kind of a protectant on that nice clean metal before it flash rusts on you again!! Johnsons paste wax is really good.

I would stay away from naval jelly…..I dont like the stuff. WD40 and a scothbrite pad works well also.


----------



## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Saving the top*
> 
> First let me say I'm not very impressed with DeWaltServiceNet.com. I couldn't order online because of a technical problem on their website so I called the Service Center in Anaheim, CA. They were great on the phone, very nice and polite, took the order and told me I should have it in 5-7 business days.
> 
> ...


I use an cheap 1/4 sheet sander or ROS I bought from Harbor Freight just for the intended purpose of removing rust from cast iron. You can use automotive sandpaper or a scotch brite pad. Just keep the sander moving. I use WD40 and brake cleaning fluid. Cast iron is porous and afte rust removal, the fluid draws out the grunge. You have to wipe the cast iron down until the fluid runs clean. You can scrub your arms off. But a sander will bring that table to a shiny smooth even luster.


----------



## Julian (Sep 30, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Saving the top*
> 
> First let me say I'm not very impressed with DeWaltServiceNet.com. I couldn't order online because of a technical problem on their website so I called the Service Center in Anaheim, CA. They were great on the phone, very nice and polite, took the order and told me I should have it in 5-7 business days.
> 
> ...


A sander will also remove metal, which is what you don't want to do.


----------



## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Saving the top*
> 
> First let me say I'm not very impressed with DeWaltServiceNet.com. I couldn't order online because of a technical problem on their website so I called the Service Center in Anaheim, CA. They were great on the phone, very nice and polite, took the order and told me I should have it in 5-7 business days.
> 
> ...


Julian, I'm not suggesting 80 grit abrasive. Brite pads are commonly used all the time, so is automotive sandpaper, 400 to 600 grit. It would take a mighty effort to shave 0.005" off cast iron using an electic pad sander and an extra fine Brite pad. After the initial rust removal, it will be shiny by 0.002". See the Brite pad grit equivalent table below, swiped from http://users.ameritech.net/knives/grits.htm#scotch

But, hey if someone doesn't feel comfortable using this technique, then by all means, don't use it.

Fine Light Gray or Green 150 - 180 Aluminum Oxide 
Very Fine Maroon 220 - 280 Aluminum Oxide 
Extra Fine Gray 320 - 400 Silicon Carbide 
Ultra Fine White 600 - 800 Talc


----------



## sidestepmcgee (Mar 14, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Saving the top*
> 
> First let me say I'm not very impressed with DeWaltServiceNet.com. I couldn't order online because of a technical problem on their website so I called the Service Center in Anaheim, CA. They were great on the phone, very nice and polite, took the order and told me I should have it in 5-7 business days.
> 
> ...


sanded my 1965 unisaw top with sandpaper,too much rust and went for easy and effective.used 220 to 300,sanded for a while and no difference in metal loss.But as stated if your not comfortable then don't do it.I also had a handful of burrs that was taken care of in the process too.But she sure is pretty after all the work is done.I used just the brite pads to take off any rust of the body,worked great then repainted with sher-kim ind. enamel paint with factory color.


----------



## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Saving the top*
> 
> First let me say I'm not very impressed with DeWaltServiceNet.com. I couldn't order online because of a technical problem on their website so I called the Service Center in Anaheim, CA. They were great on the phone, very nice and polite, took the order and told me I should have it in 5-7 business days.
> 
> ...


Just got a 1993 Unisaw myself for $500. Coincidence? I think so, yep. LOL.

My top had very little surface rust on it, but there are a ton of dings and various other surface imperfections. IMHO, you have to sand those down…even the pitted areas. When something "pits," it pushes up the sides, like a lunar crater. Even if you could take away a lot of surface metal in the sanding process, leaving the unevenness in those imperfections is worse. I don't think sanding is a concern at all…better than using Scotchbrite pads (too much work) while still leaving raised pits in the top.

I've been using WD-40 with 220 grit paper on my ROS and it works wonderfully…and I haven't spent a whole lot of time on it yet. I will progress through the grits until I'm satisfied, though I'm confident I could leave it as is and it'll be scores better than what it was. While I'll still have some pits in the surface, it'll be better with them smoothed down.

My $.02.

BTW, I'm enjoying the videos so far, Bothus!


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Saving the top*
> 
> First let me say I'm not very impressed with DeWaltServiceNet.com. I couldn't order online because of a technical problem on their website so I called the Service Center in Anaheim, CA. They were great on the phone, very nice and polite, took the order and told me I should have it in 5-7 business days.
> 
> ...


good progress


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*You gotta do whatcha gotta do*

Hi Lumberjocks,

I couldn't believe what a productive day it was today. Unfortunately, I was working on the Honey Do List not the Unisaw.

However, I did manage to buy a few more things I need. I bought some black Rust-oleum for the parts of the saw that need it. And even though I don't care for Harbor Freight much I went there and bought a dial indicator and I am very happy with it.



I just returned the one I bought from Amazon. I don't want to start a rank but I"m done with Amazon. They just aren't what they used to be.





If I wanted to I could… yeah that sounded believable.





Okay, maybe I do want to start a rant.

I'll be better in the morning. Hey maybe I should go over to HomeRefurbers.com and post about the home improvements I got done today!

;;
J


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *You gotta do whatcha gotta do*
> 
> Hi Lumberjocks,
> 
> ...


Man I buy a TON of stuff from Amazon (read as 90% of the stuff I purchase) and I've never had an issue with them. About the only thing that I don't buy from there is gas and groceries.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *You gotta do whatcha gotta do*
> 
> Hi Lumberjocks,
> 
> ...


Hi ChunkyC,

Nice guitar in your avatar. Did you make that?

Yeah, I don't usually have problems with Amazon either so maybe I'm just spoiled. They used but be stellar, now they are just good.

It shocked me when they actually sent a different item than what they had pictured… and the way it was packaged? I should have taken photos.

I specifically bought the dial indicator they showed in the photo because it came in a wooden case and it had a magnetic base similar to the one shown in the photo above. What they delivered was in a cheap plastic box and it had a goose neck magnetic base.

Also, I paid $24 for overnight shipping so I would have it Friday to use this weekend. After I placed the order I got a confirmation email telling me I would get it Tuesday or Wednesday next week. So I emailed them back and asked them to refund my shipping costs (I got an auto response telling me to go to their website and read the help pages to address my concern). Then it showed up Friday as ordered. I decided not to use it because it wasn't what I wanted (I really wanted that darn wooden case).

Anyway, I don't mean to sound bitter. I am very happy with the digital one I bought from Harbor Freight and it didn't cost as much. It doesn't have a wooden case either but I knew that when I bought it.

I have been wanting to try my hand at box building anyway.

Thanks for your comments.

Take care,

Jerry

;;
J


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *You gotta do whatcha gotta do*
> 
> Hi Lumberjocks,
> 
> ...


Nope. It's Fender Jazz Bass with 24 frets. She's the LOML.

Now that I think on it, I have had one issue with Amazon. I purchased a mount for an antenna. The box had obviously come open during shipment. I sent an email to the company (an item not sold by Amazon) and they sent me a complete new assembly, no q's asked. So I now I have 1-3/64 antenna mounts. lol

BTW - That table top sure does look nice.

Chunk


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *You gotta do whatcha gotta do*
> 
> Hi Lumberjocks,
> 
> ...


Chunk,

I LOVE guitars. I went through a phase a few years ago buying guitars on ebay. I ended up with two natural maple body strats, and six other Epiphone guitars. I starting taking lessons and discovered I don't have any talent.

I still love guitars but I only have 2 left now. I traded one to a guy so the little woman could get drums lessons. Now I gotta buy drums.

My brother had a 1964 Fender Jaguar plus a couple home made guitars. When he passed they were supposed to come to me but I had to wait until his wife passed. No problem, except when I finally got them the Fender had magically disappeared. I will never no what happened to it since there is no one left to ask.

Take care,

;;
J


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Wax on, wax off... except for the off part.*

Hi Lumberjocks,

Today was another day of doing things around the house. I did steal a few minutes late in the day to go visit my Unisaw project. I am determined* to do at least one thing every day on this project.





Enjoy.

;;
J


The little woman says "obsessed" but whatever.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Wax on, wax off... except for the off part.*
> 
> Hi Lumberjocks,
> 
> ...


I can't be sure … but … it /looked/ like I saw a mosquito … /desperately/ scrambling for traction on the top of that thing


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Run out! Now, while you still can!*

Hi Guys,

In my 15 minutes of free time today I decided to check the run out on my arbor with my new digital dial indicator (since it has no dial shouldn't it called an LCD display indicator?)

I welcome your comments but please remember, it's my first time so be gentle.





I would normally put a catchy caption here but I haven't watched this video yet so I don't know what to say.

;;
J


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Run out! Now, while you still can!*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> ...


You need a helmet cam


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Run out! Now, while you still can!*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> ...


Yeah I do.

I was daydreaming about how I could make one out of wood as my first project for my new Unisaw.

I just watched the video myself. I guess I shouldn't have unplugged the headset 'cause then the sound volume went way down.

I also think I should try to limit these video to about one minute. I'll see what I can do in the future.

;;
J


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Run out! Now, while you still can!*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> ...


Baseball hat and a little duct tape can do wondrous things. The guys on the model airplane site that I run do something like this so that they can fly and video tape at the same time.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Run out! Now, while you still can!*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> ...


A good site for a little basic info:

http://www.newwoodworker.com/dilindjiguse.html

I would tend to think that runout should first be checked at the blade. That's where the rubber meets the road. If you're good, there, then-to some degree-it doesn't matter how it got there.

The article (and my perspective) also agree about getting everything nice and clean before you check.

Another article … from a site I've enjoyed reviewing:

http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/calibrate_sled1.htm

Good vid. Made popcorn around half-way through it!


----------



## sidestepmcgee (Mar 14, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Run out! Now, while you still can!*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> ...


you going good ,this is how you tune a old unisaw.I've read that you always check the arbor first and can sand lightly to adjust small areas,and use a lathe for bad areas.looks pretty good though,cleaning first is a must just might be perfect after a clean.again check out http://www.owwm.org/ if you are into these old unisaws or have any questions and I mean any,these guys know it all.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*I got the parts from Delta (DeWalt, Black and Decker, whatever)*

I got he parts in today for my Unisaw. Unfortunately I did not have time to work on it… but that didn't stop me from making two short videos.





Made in USA





It's not you, it's me.

Take care guys.

;;
J


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Bothus said:


> *I got the parts from Delta (DeWalt, Black and Decker, whatever)*
> 
> I got he parts in today for my Unisaw. Unfortunately I did not have time to work on it… but that didn't stop me from making two short videos.
> 
> ...


I really think it's you.

Good luck on getting your money back!


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *I got the parts from Delta (DeWalt, Black and Decker, whatever)*
> 
> I got he parts in today for my Unisaw. Unfortunately I did not have time to work on it… but that didn't stop me from making two short videos.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the update. I couldn't believe made in China thing. I recall working at a place where we just stuck lables on the parts, some would say made in USA, and some would say made in China. Go figure…..


----------



## dusty2 (Jan 4, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *I got the parts from Delta (DeWalt, Black and Decker, whatever)*
> 
> I got he parts in today for my Unisaw. Unfortunately I did not have time to work on it… but that didn't stop me from making two short videos.
> 
> ...


I really don't like hearing that we can not trust the labels that are attached to things we buy. I especially don't like hearing this about manufacturer's that we have all grown to "trust".

I want to believe that if Delta is using imported parts that the QUALITY is still there (because they carry the Delta name).

Made in China does not necessarily mean that the parts are not quality parts---just like Made in the USA does not mean that they are quality parts.


----------



## rtb (Mar 26, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *I got the parts from Delta (DeWalt, Black and Decker, whatever)*
> 
> I got he parts in today for my Unisaw. Unfortunately I did not have time to work on it… but that didn't stop me from making two short videos.
> 
> ...


Delta, owned by Black & Decker, like all B&D companies have gone for the cheap labor. I agree that this doesn't mean necessarily poor quality, but pay close attention. Good example being the new saw which everyone, ie, retailers, magazines etc are pushing as "American made" is (as stated by Delta) American assembled !


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *I got the parts from Delta (DeWalt, Black and Decker, whatever)*
> 
> I got he parts in today for my Unisaw. Unfortunately I did not have time to work on it… but that didn't stop me from making two short videos.
> 
> ...


Well I was leaning on buying a new Unisaw but I think it is overpriced, seeing that SS Professional you get the brake. SS is made in Taiwan I believe. I believe we will see Delta name to be around for the next generation or so.


----------



## Dwain (Nov 1, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *I got the parts from Delta (DeWalt, Black and Decker, whatever)*
> 
> I got he parts in today for my Unisaw. Unfortunately I did not have time to work on it… but that didn't stop me from making two short videos.
> 
> ...


I may sound like a geek, but I am really excited about this bearing installation. I have heard so much about it from other posts but I have never seen it done. I want to thank you for putting this out there. I think everyone appreciates seeing what they only hear about. Keep up the good work!

Dwain

"When you earnestly believe you can compensate for a lack of skill by doubling your efforts, there's no end to what you can't do."


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *I got the parts from Delta (DeWalt, Black and Decker, whatever)*
> 
> I got he parts in today for my Unisaw. Unfortunately I did not have time to work on it… but that didn't stop me from making two short videos.
> 
> ...


Thanks to all for the feedback.

Dwain, I'm getting excited about it too but it looks like with my work schedule I won't be able to do anything on it until Friday afternoon.

I know for a normal person that is only two days away but for me that's TWO DAYS AWAY!!!!!!!

;;
J


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *I got the parts from Delta (DeWalt, Black and Decker, whatever)*
> 
> I got he parts in today for my Unisaw. Unfortunately I did not have time to work on it… but that didn't stop me from making two short videos.
> 
> ...


All good things take time, before you know it the 2 days will have come and gone. So thank you for those video updates, really appreciate it!


----------



## Cosmicsniper (Oct 2, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *I got the parts from Delta (DeWalt, Black and Decker, whatever)*
> 
> I got he parts in today for my Unisaw. Unfortunately I did not have time to work on it… but that didn't stop me from making two short videos.
> 
> ...


Uh, the bearing is a standard bearing that you probably could have gotten from McMaster-Carr. My Snapper mowers have the same bearings. Delta wouldn't manufacture its own bearings (would be stupid to do so). So, I'd ignore the Made in China thing, in this case.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *I got the parts from Delta (DeWalt, Black and Decker, whatever)*
> 
> I got he parts in today for my Unisaw. Unfortunately I did not have time to work on it… but that didn't stop me from making two short videos.
> 
> ...


keep on keeping on


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Checking blade runout*

Hi All,

Since I will have to work late tonight and tomorrow night, I went over on my lunch hour and double checked the runout after cleaning the arbor.

Then I checked it with a blade mounted too!

Oh, the exciting news is that I ordered a helmet cam from amazon.idiots (I'm only kidding, I love them now).





Rechecking the arbor runout after cleaning.





Checking the blade runout.

Enjoy!

;;
J


----------



## sidestepmcgee (Mar 14, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Checking blade runout*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> ...


look at that,cleaning did it man.alright.I'm picking up one of those suckers from the harbor.29.99+9.99 for the base,seems to work fine for you.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Checking blade runout*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> ...


Good deal McGee,

Actually, it was $14.99 for the base but still a good deal.

;;
J


----------



## Dwain (Nov 1, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Checking blade runout*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> ...


Ahh, but they are having a sale at the HF this weekend. Of course that is a bi monthly occurance! Thanks for the blog!


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*It's not as bad as I thought*

In yesterday's video I rechecked the runout on my arbor and blade after cleaning them. I was concerned because the runout at the blade was .003". Turns out that's not too bad.






I couldn't stand not knowing so I did the math.

This is a scaled drawing I did in AutoCAD. Point A represents the bottom edge of the arbor flange. Point B is a point .001" out from the top edge of the arbor flange. Point C represents the top edge of the blade. I extended a line from point A through point B past point C.

It turns out that if the runout at the edge of the arbor is .001 the runout at the extreme edge of the 10" blade would be .0025 or two and a half times.

If you consider that the same .0025 will also go in the opposite direction on the other side of the blade then Paul Anthony was correct. A .001" runout at the arbor will translate to a .005" runout at the edge of the blade assuming you have a blade that is perfectly flat.

As always, I live for your comments (wait, did I say that out loud?).

;;
J


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *It's not as bad as I thought*
> 
> In yesterday's video I rechecked the runout on my arbor and blade after cleaning them. I was concerned because the runout at the blade was .003". Turns out that's not too bad.
> 
> ...


LOL. I love you guys.

This is the one post where I admitted that I "live" for you comments. So what happens? No one commented.

I love it.

I think I found a group of guys I can relate to.

Y'all are like the brother.

Bothus


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*

Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.





Relax.

I know there are a lot of videos here but most are less than one minute. I just watched the whole thing in about in a little over 20 minutes.

Please feel free to comment. I need to know what I'm doing right and what I could do better.





We will learn together.





Removing the blade shroud.





Blade shroud removed.





Removing the arbor bolt.





I should have bought a pulley puller





I'll take the motor off first.





Switch wiring.





Geesh!





One of my favorite things.





You just sit there and think about what you did.





It never fails





Just so you know.





I better catch that pulley.





That's close enough, Dude.





I didn't throw my back out yet.





Let's get those bearings out.





Now I know.





It's not my fault.





Thank you Alex Noda.





I let the bearings sit in the sun and put the arbor in the freezer. Ooow, that's cold.





I've got a piece of maple.





Where's that Liquid Wrench?





Good thing I got the book.





I better double check everything.





I'm on my last leg here.





It's important.





ALL DONE!

Enjoy!

;;
J


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


Nice set of videos. I did sit through them all! One benefit of these that I did not realize is that they can help you reverse the process. I can assure you that if I tried something like this I definately would end up with a few parts left over at the end. I have always assumed that is the mark of a job that is done right.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


Yeah Scott. that is a trick I learned years ago (back when it really was video "tape").

I bought a carburetor rebuild kit for my old Ford Faimont and the instructions suggested that you video tape yourself disconnecting all the hoses Sure enough when I was putting the newly rebuild carb back in the car I had one hose left over. I went and watch video tape and it saved my butt.

Thanks for watching. I watched them myself. I think I need a wingman to let me know when I use the wrong words. I noticed at one point I called a bearing and pulley and another time I referred to the arbor bracket as the arbor… I always mix up my words.

Take care,

Bothus


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


The best thing about taking pictures, being moving or still, you can always go back and see how it used to look and goes back together.


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


Jerry…....Nice job. Now that you have fresh bearings you should be good to go for the next 20 yrs or so. When you get to replacing the motor bearings dont be surprised to find it packed with sawdust. There will be dust everywhere, in the wire connection box, and inside the motor. Clean the outside really well before disassembly. Before disassembly you should mark the bell ends of the motor and the rotor housing in some way so when reassmbling the parts can be lined up in the exact orientation prior to removal. You can draw a couple of lines across the joint with a sharpie or use a punch to put dimples as witness marks. You will also want to measure how far the pulley extends from the motor housing. Place a straight edge on the pulley and measure it from the bell. Dont forget the measurement, you will need it when getting things back together. The measurment is critical so the pulleys will be aligned after reassembly. The motor will be dirty inside. Use some compressed air and a light touch with an old toothbrush to remove the dust and grime. You will most likely need a puller to get one or both of the bearings off the rotor shaft. Good luck!!


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


Nice job with the video. Can't wait for the next one. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## dmorrison (Jun 20, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


A wonderful series of videos. I belong to a Mercedes forum for old (80's) Mercedes diesels and we do pictorials of various jobs. I will probably download all of your videos and posts. The information is invaluable for any cabinet saw. I know this is for the Delta Unisaw but the majority are copies of the Unisaw and the idea is great.

Thank you for doing the videos, and keep posting. I looked at a Delta 37-190 jointer that was pretty used by the guys in his shop. I may consider talking to the guy and if he will lower the price I may do the same thing. Video the rebuilding of the jointer.

Dave


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


I love these types of projects. I like being able to figure out how it comes apart and goes back together again. But the part of it is that if you ever have any issues with the saw, you knew exactly how to get at it to fix it.

Did you take some emery cloth or similar to the burger where you marred the surface?

Chunk


----------



## bigike (May 25, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


i just want to know how long it took before u had to change the part or parts?


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


Ken, thanks for the information about the motor bearings. I do plan to do that next.

Mike, don't get your hopes up for the next video. It's just me explaining why I was taking the saw home today.

Dave, thanks for the encouragement. Where is Colleyville, Texas? Our daughter went to TCU 13 years ago and never came back. Her and her hubby live in Willow Park now. Do you fly LAX to DFW? If so, we may see you when we go there for Christmas.

Chunk, I did clean up the buggering. Thanks for asking.

Bigike, I believe those were the orignal arbor bearings. The saw is 16 years old.

Thanks for your comments and questions guys.

;;
J


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


The video is a great idea! I was thinking about all the video and thought wouldn't that be a great idea if the saw manufactures actually had something like this. Like if you bought a new table saw, it would come with a disk with important information.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


Wow thanks Mike. That is the first time anyone has used the term "important information" in the same sentence with my videos.

Bothus


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


There a wealth of information to a video. How many times do we get these manuals that come in about 5 different languages, not that it is a bad thing. I end up tossing out all of the stuff that I don't need. I look for illustrations in a manual, a breakdown of the parts. The vides are educational. Since I don't own a cabinet saw yet, the series of video gives a wealth of information.


----------



## dmorrison (Jun 20, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


Colleyville is just west of the DFW Airport, in the center of the Dallas Ft. Worth metroplex.

Dave


----------



## Brrman (Jan 31, 2011)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


I know this is a pretty old post, but I just have to say thanks to you Jerry. I just bought the exact model saw you have and I'm going to replace the arbor bearings and belts next weekend. It's extremely helpful to actually see the video and hear your "discoveries" along the way

Bryan


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


Thanks for commenting Bryan. I'm glad I could help. Keep us posted on your progress.

Jerry


----------



## Brrman (Jan 31, 2011)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


well, I did manage to get the bearings off the arbor this evening. Everything seems to be going ok so far - a harbor freight gear puller made it real easy. Waiting for the new bearings and belts in the mail so I am pretty much stuck til then.

I may use the time to try and figure out some sort of dust shroud for below the blade…


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Changing the arbor bearing... finally!*
> 
> Today I finally got a chance to work on my Unisaw again. I wasn't really sure what I was doing (like I needed to tell you that) but I got it done.
> 
> ...


Bryan, that would be cool. Our Saw Stop has a shroud underneath that wraps the blade and hooks up to the the dust collector. If you figure out how to do that let us know.

Jerry


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Took the Unisaw home today*

I decided to take the Unisaw home today since it was disassembled and reassemble it there.

The only problem is I have no room in the garage.










I may not get to work on my project as often because just getting to it will be a project.


First I had to move every in my half of the garage out to the driveway. I keep everything mobile.


I got my work bench cleaned off. I set my Unisaw motor there since changing the bearings will be my next project.


I had to temporarily assemble the saw and put it back on the mobile base. Right after I took this picture I fixed that bottom shelf so it was level.


First, I rolled in my Rockler clamp rack and then my Delta AP400 dust collector.


Then I rolled in my Skil XBench system with all the accessories which I keep on a hand truck. If I keep this system I will build a nice cabinet for it.


Next I rolled in a cart I use for finishing and the the Unisaw


Then my big red Craftsman tool chest, the cart with the small DeWalt vacuum and Craftsman table saw roll in.


My Rockler's All Terrain Mobile Base fits between my toolbox and the Unisaw. I'm not sure what I will use it for yet.


It's all in!


Darn. I forgot to turn off the radio.

I have more Honey Do items tomorrow so we shall see if I can sneak in any time to work on the motor.

I welcome your comments.

Bothus


----------



## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Took the Unisaw home today*
> 
> I decided to take the Unisaw home today since it was disassembled and reassemble it there.
> 
> ...


That's quite a process to get to the tools. I'd be exhausted to work after moving all that stuff in.


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Took the Unisaw home today*
> 
> I decided to take the Unisaw home today since it was disassembled and reassemble it there.
> 
> ...


Adding a touch of class to shop with a Tiffany style lamp I see. NICE Touch! I bet that was the Mrs. who done that… lol


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Took the Unisaw home today*
> 
> I decided to take the Unisaw home today since it was disassembled and reassemble it there.
> 
> ...


I will never complain about having a small shop again. Really!


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Took the Unisaw home today*
> 
> I decided to take the Unisaw home today since it was disassembled and reassemble it there.
> 
> ...


If ya need help with the motor bearings give me a call.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Disassembling the motor to replace the bearings.*

I cheated a little on the Honey Do list and started on the motor.





Motoring.





No need to film that.





It's a short one.

Take care guys,

Bothus


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Disassembling the motor to replace the bearings.*
> 
> I cheated a little on the Honey Do list and started on the motor.
> 
> ...


When the barrings start to fail what happens is the rotor starts to rub on the stator. It will rub it enough that it will cause failure. At that point, you send it to the recycler and go buy a new motor. Trying to repair a single phase motor is more $$ and time consuming than its worth. I would seriously doubt that you will ever see that motor fail in your life time. That is one nice looking motor, almost like it was never, or hardly ever, run.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Bothus said:


> *Disassembling the motor to replace the bearings.*
> 
> I cheated a little on the Honey Do list and started on the motor.
> 
> ...


The reason that there is no dist in the motor is that it is sealed with no air holes to put dust inside in the motor. The fan keeps it cool.


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Disassembling the motor to replace the bearings.*
> 
> I cheated a little on the Honey Do list and started on the motor.
> 
> ...


TEFC Motors, although claim to be totally enclosed, are in fact not totally enclosed. The area around the pecker head is open and in a couple of other areas too. The motor has to be able to breath some. As the motor heats up, the air pressure inside increases and forces the air out, PV=NRT. As the motor cools, it pulls dirty air in from the outside. Any TEFC motor that has any kind of hours on it will be dirty inside.

I work in a food plant and you'd think that we wouldn't get "dirt" inside our thousands of TEFC motors on the production floor. I'm here to tell you that if you open any motor up you'll find the inside to be rather dirty unless it is new or newly rebuilt.

What you have there is a motor that hasn't seen much run time.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*What to use?*

Hi guys,

The helmet cam I ordered came in today. I used it for this video.





It's not made for indoors and the sound quality isn't as good as the iPhone either but it does work.

Yesterday after putting the motor back together I cleaned all gummed up sawdust stuck to the inside of the blade shroud. It was a lot of work but it is ready for painting now. Maybe I'll do that tonight… but I doubt it.

I need someone to tell me what the best thing is to clean that gunk off the inside of the Unisaw cabinet.

I don't want to repaint it so I need something that will clean off without taking the paint.

Thanks in advance.

Bothus


----------



## bluchz (Mar 1, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *What to use?*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> ...


For work we use this stuff called "Purple Power" it is a heavy duty de-greaser that dosen't take the paint off. I us it to wash my truck engine to get the oil leaks cleaned up. On the exterior of the truck, I spray it on full strength and then hit it with a soft brush then rinse or pressure wash, if i can get my hands on one. This might work if oyu can get it someplace where you can rinse it well.


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *What to use?*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> ...


Superclean does marvels. I'm guessing it's about the same as the Purple Power bluchz mentioned. I use superclean to get the pitch off of my saw blades.


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *What to use?*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> ...


Simple Green seems to work on most everything.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *What to use?*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> ...


Thanks guys, I'll try to find one of those.

BTW, be careful what links you click on if you Google Purple Power. Apparently there are some adult products by that name.

Bothus


----------



## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *What to use?*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> ...


Easy-Off oven cleaner


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *What to use?*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> ...


I agree Easy-Off Oven cleaner should work, there also is a some sort of sponge out there too, that works well.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Rolling Hills is just down the road a piece...*

...just drive past Rockler and keep going. Yeah right.





Pitch and resin remover.

After I left Rockler I stopped at Big Lots where I bought 3 different kinds of cleaning/degreasing products.

The Rockler stuff was $10-12 a bottle and the Big Lots stuff was $2 a bottle.

I will do a side by side comparison if I ever get to work on my Unisaw again.

Having it at home is comforting but by the time I get home from work it's too late to do anything.

I guess it will be Saturday before I get a chance to work on it again.

Take care,

Bothus


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Rolling Hills is just down the road a piece...*
> 
> ...just drive past Rockler and keep going. Yeah right.
> 
> ...


I could spend hours in that store, sometimes they do have some great bargains. The side by side comparision will be good to see.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Rolling Hills is just down the road a piece...*
> 
> ...just drive past Rockler and keep going. Yeah right.
> 
> ...


Driving on by a Rocker or Woodcraft store is always a hard task to manage. I have "complained" to the local Woodcraft owner that every time I have to drive by his store I always end up poorer.


----------



## kosta (Mar 20, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Rolling Hills is just down the road a piece...*
> 
> ...just drive past Rockler and keep going. Yeah right.
> 
> ...


that stuffs the best


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Side by Side Comparision of cleaning products.*

Well I took a few minutes before dinner tonight to test the cleaning/degreasing products I bought the other day.

I was pleasantly surprised at the outcome.


































































I just checked my receipt, I paid $1.50 for a 16oz can of oven cleaner at Big Lots.

I hope you found this useful.

Bothus


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Side by Side Comparision of cleaning products.*
> 
> Well I took a few minutes before dinner tonight to test the cleaning/degreasing products I bought the other day.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the cleaner review. I am not surpirsed that the oven cleaner worked the best. I have been using it for years to remove pitch and resin from sawblades as well.

Most oven cleaners use sodium or potassium hydroxide as an active ingredient. Just wiping the surface will remove the bulk of the residue but there will still be some material remaining on the surface that may be problematic if you are going to paint. With the sawblades I will rinse the blade with water, dry and then coat with a rust inhibitor. You may want to consider wiping the surface with damp paper towels after wiping off the oven cleaner and then drying well.


----------



## Wood_Chuck (Feb 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Side by Side Comparision of cleaning products.*
> 
> Well I took a few minutes before dinner tonight to test the cleaning/degreasing products I bought the other day.
> 
> ...


Yes thanks for the review. I have used oven cleaner to restore my antique tractor, but I did was down the area before painting. Before paiinting I used a degreaser spray that I got at the Auto Parts Store, primed and then painted. Make sure you have plenty of ventilation. Also thanks Scott for the tip on the sawblades using oven cleaner. I saw this solutions where you dipped the saw blade in and it came out like new. I just can't remember what it was called.


----------



## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Side by Side Comparision of cleaning products.*
> 
> Well I took a few minutes before dinner tonight to test the cleaning/degreasing products I bought the other day.
> 
> ...


Why am I still thinking either WD-40 (does a GREAT job with sap & tar on cars) or Simple Green, used with a household scrubbie sponge or Scotchbrite pad?

Great stuff, Bothus … as always!


----------



## MOJOE (Jun 13, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Side by Side Comparision of cleaning products.*
> 
> Well I took a few minutes before dinner tonight to test the cleaning/degreasing products I bought the other day.
> 
> ...


Oven cleaner is king….only thing that took baked on oil off my Harley engine when a bought it used…....more importantly though, what is that music in the background????


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Side by Side Comparision of cleaning products.*
> 
> Well I took a few minutes before dinner tonight to test the cleaning/degreasing products I bought the other day.
> 
> ...


NBeener, I didn't think to test WD-40 but I use it all the time to clean stuff.

When I was at Big Lots I bought some Simple Green Wipes. I didn't know they made them.

I didn't test them either because the little women used one to clean my greasy finger prints off the screen door and she said it didn't work that well. She ended up using the Orange stuff and said it worked better.

Mojoe, the music is KKJZ our local jazz and blues station. You can hear it at www.jazzandblues.org. It's a good station but they really only do blues on the weekend. I love blues.

Bothus


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Unisaw Update*

Well it says that it's been 8 days since my last Unisaw post but that can't be right because it seems like for-friggin'-ever!





Nothing





I gotta focus, my brain, not the camera.

I finally ordered the touch up paint for my Unisaw. Hopefully it will be here next week.

Hopefully it will be the correct color. If not, I guess I will have to have it mixed and buy a sprayer.

Side note: I was adding tags to this post and under "Skill" I couldn't find a tag for "Babbling"


----------



## ChunkyC (Jun 28, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Unisaw Update*
> 
> Well it says that it's been 8 days since my last Unisaw post but that can't be right because it seems like for-friggin'-ever!
> 
> ...


Happy B-Day!


----------



## Dwain (Nov 1, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Unisaw Update*
> 
> Well it says that it's been 8 days since my last Unisaw post but that can't be right because it seems like for-friggin'-ever!
> 
> ...


Glad to see you are still keeping us in the loop! I have gone through some "Bothus Unisaw Resto Blog" withdrawls lately. Sad I know, but it is a lot of fun to see it shaping up! Good luck. Are you planning on doing something like this for your new bandsaw?


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *Unisaw Update*
> 
> Well it says that it's been 8 days since my last Unisaw post but that can't be right because it seems like for-friggin'-ever!
> 
> ...


Thanks Chunk.

Dwain, I'm not sure what the bandsaw will need but I'm definitely gettin' fixina tune it up too.

I will try really hard not to start that project before I finish the Unisaw. Man that is going to be hard to do. But yeah, I'll probably blog that process too. In fact I think I will update that blog right now.

Bothus


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Bothus said:


> *Unisaw Update*
> 
> Well it says that it's been 8 days since my last Unisaw post but that can't be right because it seems like for-friggin'-ever!
> 
> ...


Thanks


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*I miss my Unisaw*

Well, I don't actually miss it. I have to wheel it out of the way every time I want to get to my workbench but I do miss working on fixing it up.

It has been 16 days since I last posted anything about it and then it was just a video saying I hadn't been able to work on it in 8 days.

That's like over 3 weeks of no progress.. WTF?

I have been very busy doing home improvement type projects (Honey Do list stuff mostly).

On a positive note, I did get the paint from Delta the other day so now there is nothing stopping me (except that darn Honey Do list).

I never should have brought the Unisaw home, especially now that there is a time change it will be dark by the time I get home from work.

Next Friday the new refrigerator I bought as a surprise for the little woman will get delivered and that is going to create another whole list of projects… I think I'll tell her I need my Unisaw working in order to get them done. I mean one or two days and the puppy would be 100%.

Sorry for the rambling post, I just wanted to let you know what's up.

Bothus


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *I miss my Unisaw*
> 
> Well, I don't actually miss it. I have to wheel it out of the way every time I want to get to my workbench but I do miss working on fixing it up.
> 
> ...


Glad to hear from you. I was wondering where you were on the renovation. And, yes, welcome to the real world.  It would be nice if those darn interfering honey-do lists were shorter but, unfortunately, despite this being a 50:50 relationship it seems our wives have the deciding vote.


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*Mounting the motor*

Hi guys. I guess I've been gone awhile but I'm finally ready to work on the Unisaw again. The videos tell the story.


























I'll be posting the series finally in just a few moments so don't change that dial!


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *Mounting the motor*
> 
> Hi guys. I guess I've been gone awhile but I'm finally ready to work on the Unisaw again. The videos tell the story.
> 
> ...


Very good!

You're more LUCKY than I am…
... for me, it would have fallen to the ground and rolled under the largest heaviest cabinet in the shop requiring 4 other pieces to me moved before being able to move the piece it's under!

Glad you were Lucky!

Nice saw!

CU on the other side…


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

*All done*

It is complete the videos show me cutting pieces of 1-1/4" teak and running the nickel test.











I'm thinking I'll list it on craigslist for $975… does that sound fair?


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *All done*
> 
> It is complete the videos show me cutting pieces of 1-1/4" teak and running the nickel test.
> 
> ...


Hi Bothus!

We are not very far from you…

The wind has been blowing up a STORM around Alta Loma TOO!

I went out the front door to find pine needles everywhere!

The Flag I had on my mail box is flying somewhere else now… I have NO IDEA of where it went!

That wind really blew HARD last night… & I didn't hear a thing! Slept like a baby!

Hope you're OK!

Your saw is coming along really good!

That is one nice looking saw…


----------



## skywalker01 (May 19, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *All done*
> 
> It is complete the videos show me cutting pieces of 1-1/4" teak and running the nickel test.
> 
> ...


I just picked up a unisaw a lot like yours. I need a handwheel for the blade angle change, it is broken. From your extensive research and experience where do you think is the best place to find one of those? The part # is 422-04-100-0003 and I just can't find one online that is exactly the same. I've found some similar items but they just don't look the same and I'd like to keep it authentic. Any help would be great.

Thanks,


----------



## Bothus (Sep 14, 2009)

Bothus said:


> *All done*
> 
> It is complete the videos show me cutting pieces of 1-1/4" teak and running the nickel test.
> 
> ...


Hi Luke,

I agree with you I like to use all original parts as well.

I just sold my Unisaw yesterday and I gave the buyer my notebook with all my notes.

However, I just googled and found servicenet.dewalt.com and they should have the parts. You have to start by putting in your Unisaw Model number then it lists all the parts for that saw. I used this p,ace a few years ago and wasn't really happy with their service but they if have the parts it worth trying.

I hope this helps.


----------



## doyoulikegumwood (Jun 21, 2007)

Bothus said:


> *All done*
> 
> It is complete the videos show me cutting pieces of 1-1/4" teak and running the nickel test.
> 
> ...


the best place I've found for uni saw parts is saw center.

http://www.sawcenter.com/


----------

