# What Material Should I Use For First Bench Tabletop?



## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

I've been avoiding building a woodworking table for several reasons 1) I don't have a pickup so large sheet goods would be tough to transport, and 2) I have other smaller projects I'd prefer to work on instead.

I bought a Kreg Mobile Project Center, and while it's a nice bit of kit, it's somewhat unstable for handplaneing. And the lower shelf is so flimsy I don't want to put much weight on it to aid in holding it down.

So I may build a cheap bench. I definitely want a vise and bench dogs. One set of plans I have shows two layers of MDF sandwiched together with screws and glue in use as the table top. Would this be an appropriate material for use with bench dogs and the lateral pressures they may encounter? It seems like the bench dog holes would wear faster than if the table top was made out of two sandwhiched sheets of 3/4" plywood.

What do you all think? I'm on a budget so exotic or expensive woods are off the table (so to speak).


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## richardchaos (May 12, 2017)

I used 2×8 pine but its just a rough bench. If I had the money I would of made a real one out of Poplar with a front and end bench vices!


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

In Christopher Schwarz's 10 Mistakes of First-time Bench Builders is this great piece of advice about workbench material. (The whole article is worth a read)

*3. Over-agonizing the wood types used*

Any wood (even plywood) can be used to make a bench. The material should be cheap, easy to get, heavy (if possible), dry-ish and heavy (if possible). After a few years of use, your bench will look like every other used bench - beat up, broke in and awesome.

My bench, as well as those of many others on this site, is made from 2x construction lumber. Paul Sellers has a whole series about building an English style bench out of 2×4's, too. I made a portable bench out of some old oak trucking skids that were purchased for a very cheap price. There are many people who make tops out of layers of sheet goods, too, and it works just fine. In the end, if your bench is stable, heavy and flat, it will work for woodworking.


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## BlasterStumps (Mar 13, 2017)

I have built a few benches and up until the last one I made, I hated them all after a while for one reason or another. Too heavy, too tall, wrong location for vise, etc. Then one day I saw the plans for the bench in this little DIY book. 
http://toolemera.com/bkpdf/haywardhowtobk.pdf

Love it. I made it from lumber at HD. You can see it in this picture:

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p124/mmurray_02/IMG_2285-1.jpg

The top is 4×4 pieces (3) glued together and it has a tool well. The frame is 4×4 also. It will serve me for a long time to come. I bought a veritas inset vise for use as a tail vise. I added a quick release vise to the face and it was done. It's heavy enough but can still be moved easily enough when wanted.

If I ever make another bench it will be built on the same plans only next time, I would like to try to find some Southern Yellow Pine to build it out of.

Edit: I also must acknowledge that Richard MaQuire influenced me on building this bench as well.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

+1 to Jays advice. My first bench was out of 2×4s and twisted. I used it for years and learned exactly what I wanted in a bench. My current bench is a Roubo made from Schwarz's plans with vises, dog holes, holdfasts and a lot of other doohickies! It is my most valued tool in the shop.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Interior doors make cheap table tops. The hollow core aren't good for much more than having a surface for glue ups. You need a solid core if you're going to do any real work on it. I got mine for $20 on clearance at HD and ultimately turned it into something that suits the way I work perfectly.


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## BlasterStumps (Mar 13, 2017)

Nice Rich. I like that. Durable and solid. Good job.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> Nice Rich. I like that. Durable and solid. Good job.
> 
> - BlasterStumps


Thanks Blaster, I really appreciate that. I had just the door on sawhorses for a long time while I figured out where I wanted to go with it. I admire the craftsmen who do the Roubo and 21st Century builds, but they all had features that I didn't need. Indeed this thing is a rock, and I doubt if I have even $200 invested in it all.

I noticed the OP mentioned he didn't have a pickup. I drove a 1985 Mazda Rx7 GSL-SE for years and the guys at the lumber store would laugh when I showed up. I brought home my Jet 6" jointer in it, all of the lumber and shingles for an 8×16 foot cover for my smoker in the back yard, and even 100 BF of African mahogany once.


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## magaoitin (Oct 20, 2015)

Without a truck for hauling bigger material, you have added a unique challenge. Even getting a solid core door blank home is not going to be simple.

Another very outside the box option to consider is a concrete topped bench. There is a neat youtube video by Jeremy Schmitdt that I thought was an interesting way to add a lot of mass to a bench and make it very stable. Plus side is you can buy individual bags and haul them home


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

I drive a 2002 Saturn sedan. I can put several 2×4x8 boards in there precariously, but I can get the trunk shut at least!

A guy on YouTube built a workbench out of 100% 2×4's. For the top he lined up 2×4's on end, then glued and screwed them together. He planed and sanded then flat, I think. I thought it was a cool idea but I don't know how the bench top would move with humidity changes. I also think it might be difficult to mount a wood vise on one end (maybe not).


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

I doubt MDF will hold up to anything but the lightest bench dog and hold fast use.

I made my bench about 15 years ago entirely from 2x lumber, I doubt it would cost more than $100 to build today. I followed a design in Fine Woodworking. It was a quick build, less than a weekend of work. I f you decide to use construction lumber to build with, be sure you get KD. The cheaper stuff is too wet and will warp all over the place.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

> I doubt MDF will hold up to anything but the lightest bench dog and hold fast use.
> 
> I made my bench about 15 years ago entirely from 2x lumber, I doubt it would cost more than $100 to build today. I followed a design in Fine Woodworking. It was a quick build, less than a weekend of work. I f you decide to use construction lumber to build with, be sure you get KD. The cheaper stuff is too wet and will warp all over the place.
> 
> - TungOil


Thanks, sounds like 2x is in my future. How did you make the table top?


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

I don't have a good photo handy but this should help you visualize to top construction










Basically it's 2×4's on edge between 2×10's ripped down a bit. Overall width is 30". Base is a trestle style base. My dog holes are used for hold fasts, and you can see that I put them into the 2×4's that are on edge to give them a bit more meat. I stuck a Rockler QR vise on the front and another little iron vise I had on the end. I'm mostly a power tool user so this works fine for me. I have flattened it twice with a router sled. Once about 6 months after I built it to,allow the wood to dry out, and I just did it again about a year ago since it warped a bit after I moved.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

> I don t have a good photo handy but this should help you visualize to top construction
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks great! Thanks for the picture. That's how the YouTube guy built his top also.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Don't sweat it. Rob Cosman built a bench out of MDF and had a lot of positive things to say about it, there is a video of it on his youtube channel. I made dog hole inserts for a guy who built an mdf bench and was afraid the hold fasts would wallow out the holes. Myself, I've had plywood benches and 2x pine benches, I like the pine a lot better. I plan on building a new bench soon but can't seem to get caught up on more important projects.


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

Here's a couple of photos that make the construction more clear


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

> I don t have a good photo handy but this should help you visualize to top construction
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks great! Thanks for the picture. That's how the YouTube guy built his top also.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

You could build something like this. Top is a sheet of 3/4 ply laminated. Legs are 6×6 and the aprons or cross supports are 2×4 with threaded rod connecting everything. I built this back in 2011 and it still fits my needs. The lumber I got home in the back of a Sonata.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

> You could build something like this. Top is a sheet of 3/4 ply laminated. Legs are 6×6 and the aprons or cross supports are 2×4 with threaded rod connecting everything. I built this back in 2011 and it still fits my needs. The lumber I got home in the back of a Sonata.
> 
> - mrg


I like the look of that bench! Nice, simple, strong and probably cheap to build. Just a couple beginner questions if you don't mind:

Is that a single sheet of ply with a separate laminate top?

You say the legs are 6×6, but they almost look like 4×4's. Could those be substituted instead in case I can't find 6x's?

I'm confused about the threaded rods; I've seen those on some other builds too. Do the connect things width wise, drilling through the legs and connecting with bolts? Do they install tight up against the aprons? And did you use a forstner drill bit on the outside of the legs to accommodate the fastner for the rods?


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

What would be a good size for a table top? For my garage, 8ft is too long so I was going to drop it to 5 or 6. I thought about only going about 2 feet in width since I don't want to build a gigantic dining table or anything, but that might be too narrow.

I realize it depends on space and usage, but what are everyone's opinions on dimensions?


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

My workbench is made from framing lumber (spruce, most likely in New England) and cost around $150 if you take out the cabinet I put into the base. See the project/blog series for more.

I would most definitely not over-think this. Construction lumber is just fine. 2×8s or 2×10s give you the chance to cut around knots and whatnot without having to waste huge amounts of lumber and money. My bench is rock solid. If I did it again, I might just buy some 6×6s for the legs to save myself some work there.

Main lesson: Be choosy of the boards you buy. Buy flat, straight ones that have the fewest knots you can. If possible, do not waste your time at big box stores - their lumber is crap.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

Thanks Jonah!

Unfortunately, overthinking is a bad habit of mine!


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

My philosophy is build it once, and build it right. An MDF bench is 1) not going to hold up as well, and 2) will look like crap in a couple years. Fine for an assembly table, not so good for a ww'ing bench.

So it really all depends on what kind of ww'ing you are doing, but here's what I suggest:

Go to Home Depot, rent a truck from them and bring it home SYP 2×12's, and a few 2×8's, Figure your materials based on 1 1/4" thick X 4" wide boards (dims after planing/jointing) to make a top 24-30" wide. Use the same boards to laminate up 4×4 legs and the 2×8's for stretchers.

Most all 2×12's will be cuts through the heart of the tree, which will yield quarter sawn (or almost so) boards if you rip out the pith, or center. This yields a stabler, more attractive wood. You'll also find fewer knots.

Start by cutting to length, ripping out 4 1/2" wide boards off the ends, and do an initial jointing/planing-no more than 1/16" each side. Since construction lumber is high in moisture you cannot use it right away and have to mill it in stages for best results. Sticker in a well ventilated area and don't touch them for 30 days. Remill and re-sticker for at least a week. Your lumber should yield a 4" thick top with 4×4 or 4×5 legs. The 2×8' for stretchers and aprons.

One of the simplest style benches to build is a Roubo style with a wagon vise, a good face vise and a couple bench dogs. I HIGHLY recommend taking a look at the Schwarz material cited above. He is also partial to Roubo style benches.

Jay Bates also has some good videos on building just this type of bench.

One of mine is a piece bowling alley lane:









Hope this helps.

Once your ww'ing takes off, you will need a pickup to 1)buy more lumber and 2)buy more machines just like the rest of us!!


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

Rather than Home Depot, see if a local lumberyard has some older 2×12s. If they've been sitting in a covered area for a couple of months (or longer), so much the better. Pick the straightest ones you can find, and be sure to avoid huge knots near what will become the edges of the glue up (about 1/2" and 4 1/2" from the edge of the board.

You may even be able to get the wood delivered from a local place, especially if you buy some plywood or something else at the same time. Lots of places will deliver if you buy ~$200 of product.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

Well I just bought some 2×4x8 kiln dried wood (pine or fir I think). I got ten of 'em home in my Saturn, surprisingly. I've decided to make the table top with 2xs on end, so their faces are glued to each other, and their ends will form the table surface. I got really lucky: many of the boards were pretty straight. The downside is that the edges almost all have some little knot in them that will make planing a challenge.

When I was rifling through the boards (inside mind you) I noticed that many of them were moist. Not soaked, but I wouldn't have noticed if I hadn't grabbed them. I layed them out in a few stacks to dry out. Is that the right thing to do before building?

Also, I have Kreg's HD jig and some of their HD coated screws. Would they be appropriate for this build?


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

You're likely to end up with pretty horribly twisted boards, honestly. The point of using 2×10s or 2×12s is so you can cut out the pith. Most if your 2×4s will likely have part or all of the pith in them. I would lightly plane them, as suggested above, and stack them on stickers to dry out for a month or two. Then you can mill them again and glue them up. Don't be surprised if half of them more closely resemble ski jumps than straight boards in two months.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

> You re likely to end up with pretty horribly twisted boards, honestly. The point of using 2×10s or 2×12s is so you can cut out the pith. Most if your 2×4s will likely have part or all of the pith in them. I would lightly plane them, as suggested above, and stack them on stickers to dry out for a month or two. Then you can mill them again and glue them up. Don t be surprised if half of them more closely resemble ski jumps than straight boards in two months.
> 
> - jonah


I carefully checked the end grain on the boards, an I think only one has the actual pith present. I'll wait awhile and see what happens.

Could you explain the term 'stickers' that you used here? I just made three loe stacks and laid them flat on my garage floor for now

(I appreciate everyone's patience. I'm very new to this hobby!)


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Answers to your questions.

The top is 1 sheet of ply cut in half and laminated. The legs may be 4×4. used the same plans for my workbench, out feed table and lathe bench. Here is the link to the plans http://www.startwoodworking.com/plans/build-simple-sturdy-workbench


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

The idea is that you want airflow on all six sides of every board, so you put down strips of scrap wood every foot or two and lay the board on that. Then you stack more strips on top of that board and put the next one on top. Rinse and repeat.

Like this:


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

> The idea is that you want airflow on all six sides of every board, so you put down strips of scrap wood every foot or two and lay the board on that. Then you stack more strips on top of that board and put the next one on top. Rinse and repeat.
> 
> Like this:
> 
> ...


Gotcha. Thanks!


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## SignWave (Feb 2, 2010)

Construction grade dimensional lumber is fine. I ripped the boards, flattened the joints and glued them. Screws are not necessary, and I wouldn't put a metal fastener in the workbench top. Just my .02 but if you don't trust your wood glue, then you should use a different glue. I did notice that I had to resurface my bench top because what appeared to be the moisture content of the boards settling out. The top kind of scalloped over the first few months, but it has been stable for the last several years.

I'll offer a few suggestions, based on my own experience:
1) Larger boards are generally better quality with regard to warping and knots. A 2×12 ripped into 3 pieces will usually yield boards with fewer knots than three 2×4's. The cost difference is minimal.
2) Knots are a pain for 2 reasons. One is that they're much harder than the wood, particularly in the S-P-F woods that are commonly used for construction lumber. The other is that the grain changes direction around the knots, which makes these hard to plane smooth without tearout. 
3) Pay attention to grain orientation. If you can align the boards so that the slight downhill of the grain is in the same direction, it will be easier to plane smooth. I did not and every other board or so switches direction slightly, enough that it's hard to smooth.

I left knots in my workbench top originally and later regretted it. I have since routered out the knots and patched those areas. My workbench looks like a patchwork of different pieces, but I don't have to deal with the knots so much.

I've made flat surfaces out of old solid core doors that were left over from remodeling projects, but the ones that I had access to were either particle board inside or a bunch of odd scraps of mystery wood glued together. I haven't seen one yet that would make a good workbench with holes for bench dogs.

Finally, it took me a while to realize this, but I just don't' need lots of large horizontal surfaces in the shop. They take up a lot of space and seem to attract junk. My current workbench is too big (about 36" by 75"). It only needs to be big enough to hold the piece you're working on at the moment. My next one will be narrower (~24" or so) and shorter (~5 feet). If you know you're going to be working on larger pieces, then make it larger, of course.

Whatever you do, charging ahead with an affordable plan is a good idea. You'll learn from using it and probably end up making a different one later. Your next one will be better because it will take into consideration the things that work and don't work for you personally.


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

Some very good thoughts there. I completely agree about the size of workbenches. Mine is ~ 24×68", and I'd probably even make it six or eight inches shorter if I had to do it again. Two feet wide is perfect in my mind. I don't go for tool wells or anything.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

Thanks Barry,
Since I've already got a bunch of 2×4's home, I'll just use those and, as you say, learn from it. The knots on the 2×4 edges are fairly small generally, so I hope they won't be a problem.
I was going to use my table saw and rip the sloped edges/sides of the 2×4. Maybe cut 1/8" off either side of each board?
I went to my garage with a tape measure to get an idea of space. I came to the conclusion that a 5' x 2' tabletop would be ideal for me and my space. I mostly want something heavy ans flat.
Did you put any finish on yours? Mine will be in a detached, uninsulated garage so I thought some type of poly coating might protect in from warping much with humidity changes.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Once you get the bench glued up, you don't really have to worry about seasonal changes-it'll move, but being all the same material, will move fairly consistently and not affect the flatness. The construction lumber will move a bit as it continues to dry and you'll need to re-flatten in 6 months or so, but otherwise there aren't any issues. For my bench, I use a single coat of Danish oil for a finish, just enough to help glue drips not stick as well. I wouldn't want poly on a bench, as it will make the top a bit slicker, but others have used it.

Size-wise, 5'x2' is plenty big enough to do a lot of work. My bench is 6'x2' and I can safely say I wouldn't want one any deeper. If I had more space, a longer bench would be nice, but it has worked for anything I've needed to build.


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

I have a couple of quick coats of Arm-R-Seal on mine (be sure to finish both sides, to keep things consistent from a moisture perspective), and I don't find the top to be slick, yet glue won't stick to it. Even epoxy I can generally get off if I have to.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

I have a large can of boiled linseed oil around here somewhere. I put a coat on my wooden mallet, mostly for asthetic reasons. I'd read somewhere BSO isnt the most durable finish. I fully expect this table to get beaten over the years, so it's not a big deal. I just want utiliy, not pretty from this bench.


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## SignWave (Feb 2, 2010)

When I first made my workbench, I put some danish oil on it. I've hit it with a smoothing plane a few times in the last few years, and I haven't bothered to add any finish to it. It ends up with dings and stains, but that doesn't bother me.

My experience matches JayT in that it moved for a few months, but settled in and has been stable. I don't think adding or not adding finish will make much difference. Not enough to worry about anyway.

I like the look of BLO (or a blend like danish oil) for many woods, but I agree that it doesn't provide a durable finish.


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

You don't really need a durable finish when your bench is made of 2×4s.

A finish will help to keep the wood reasonably stable, though, and will help prevent checking and cracking. BLO is perfectly fine from that perspective. The side benefit of glue not sticking to it is a plus as well.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

Glue type was mentioned in a previous response. I've mostly used Titebond III, but I have large quantity of Elmer's wood glue. I was probably going to use the latter since I won't have to buy more right away. I don't know if that makes a difference in this build or not

Did I mention I overthink things?


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

Just use what you have. Elmer's is perfectly fine.


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## SignWave (Feb 2, 2010)

I looked online to see what they put in Elmer's wood glue these days. It used to be aliphatic resin, which is the same base as TiteBond I. Not sure if it is still the same or if they've switched to PVA like TB2 and TB3. The PVA offers some water resistance, but I don't think that's necessary for a workbench.

I cannot think of any other reason for using one type of wood glue over another(*), in the case of a workbench. As long as you apply it properly and have well-mated surfaces, it should be at least as strong as the wood itself. I made an offhand comment earlier about what I consider to be excessive use of screws. Sorry if it came off as more snarky than I needed to be. When I do glue-ups, I make sure that all the mating surfaces are clean and covered with a thin coat of glue, in order to maximize the glued surface area. As long as you have sufficient glue surface area, and it's side-grain (not end-grain), the glue will almost certainly hold.


I don't recommend the expanding foam type polyurethane glues for anything. Ever.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

I didn't take it as being snarky. It's all good!


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## Bluenote38 (May 3, 2017)

Lots of great insights and JayT nailed it with Chris Schwarz's article. I've used everything for bench material old doors to Maple/Walnut/Cherry. but personally have centered on pine. It's Cheap, Easy to fabricate, Easy to repair/fix/replace, Not something I really care about, so damage is not an issue.

My newest build is a 3-1/2" split top and includes an integrated wagon vice, front vice, "T-Track", and 3/4" dog holes sliding center trays and wheels for mobility. I do envy those craftsmen that build benches like furniture but I couldn't bring myself to use one though for fear of damaging it. So… for me, pine is perfect.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

> Here s a couple of photos that make the construction more clear
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I was reviewing the responses on this thread and got a closer look at your table. I thought initially the table top was entirely of 2×4's on end. But you've staggered out a few 2×4's amongst others laying flat. I was wondering why you decided to design it like you did, and did you assemble it with glue strictly?


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## TungOil (Jan 16, 2017)

I was reviewing the responses on this thread and got a closer look at your table. I thought initially the table top was entirely of 2×4 s on end. But you ve staggered out a few 2×4 s amongst others laying flat. I was wondering why you decided to design it like you did, and did you assemble it with glue strictly?

- JohnnyBoy1981
[/QUOTE]
I built it pretty much to match the design in FWW. The edges are glued only but there is a full length spline for alignment


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

Regarding the base of the bench, I had asked about HD Kreg pocket holes as a way to join the wood together and the base to the table top. I'm not sure if they would withstand the racking.

Wandering the internet, and it seems like the mortise and tennon joint isn't a favorite in this application either.

So what else is viable? Lap joints, or maybe bolts of some sort?

I'm more perplexed by the base of the bench than the top.


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

You mean joining the pieces of the base to each other? The joinery you use there is going to depend on what particular base design you're using. For lots of bases, mortises and tenons are fine. Mine has mortise and tenon joints and bolts for the stretchers. The bolts thread into cross dowels in the stretchers. I did that so the bench is knock down for moving. It disassembles into two end assemblies, two long stretchers, and the top.

For attaching the top to the base, I just use screws in elongated holes to allow for wood movement.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

If you are still deciding, there are lots of good bench designs floating around. I've been in woodworking long enough to know that bench styles are faddish, they come and go.

Here is one I've always liked but it never got much attention. It was in an early issue of Wood Magazine back when Scandinavian benches were all the rage. I would make it a little longer.


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## JohnnyBoy1981 (Mar 15, 2017)

Looks heavy duty! Yes, I'm still deciding. I've got the top essentially figured out in terms of dimensions and construction design. I'm still trying to figure out what to do for the supports and joinery there. Use 4×4's for the legs or use 2×4's sandwiched together and connect them to one another with lap joints? And do I want to join tbe top to the bottom with some kind of bracket to account for wood movement, use pocket holes, or try and do a through mortise and tennon between the legs and top?

There are so many approaches to building something that, I feel, should be simple. It reminds me of the Jedi in Star Wars: when in training, each Jedi constructs their own lightsaber. The design of the hilt and the blade color are unique to each Jedi, but they all essentially work the same way and do the same thing. That's how I feel studying design and construction techniques of woodworking benches!

I'm still looking and seeing what others have done.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

The bench I just posted is made of 2×4s, the legs are 2 of them glued together which makes it easy to build. You can cut the mortises for the stretchers in each board before gluing together. Another feature is the "shelf" in the bottom is made of dowels so sawdust falls through.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Depending on how you build the base you can use tabletop fasteners to attach the top.


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