# Creating illusion of thick table top, help!



## Colin1 (Oct 12, 2016)

Hi Everyone,

I'm new to this blog and also pretty new to woodworking! One project I want to make is a walnut table with steel legs but I'm trying to figure out the best way to create a top that looks thick without using 8/4+ lumber. I have attached a picture of how I imagine the final product and will discuss the two ways I am thinking of creating the look of thickness.










1. Lots of Bevels! This method would allow me to make the table look as thick as I want but I imagine there may be some issues getting all the anglesto line up. This is where I want your fedback! For this method I was thinking of gluing up boards slightly longer and wider than my desired table size then cutting 45 bevels on all sides and then mitering these offcuts to form the edge of the table. For the size corner pieces I would have the make cuts in 2 directions. This would result in a continuous grain look and I think would provide well hidden joins. I have attached some pictures to try and explain what I am thinking.

From Above









From Below









Exploded From above









Exploded from below









Corner detail









Drawing









2. Simply doubling up edges. There is already a link showing this process in good detail.
https://wunderwoods.wordpress.com/2013/09/17/how-to-make-a-thick-countertop-out-of-thin-wood/

I would like to do the first method because I can make the table as thick looking as I want but again am worried about the logistics…

What do you guys think? Maybe you have a better idea I did not think of, if so, let me know!


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Its a simple process.

Double up the edges by gluing a 2-3" strip on the bottom for the long grain.

For the end grain, cut pieces to match the end grain. Pay attention to direction of the growth rings.

You want it like this: ( ( not this: ( )


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Yep, Fairly standard thing to do. The key to the best look is grain matching, typically using wood that is sawn off the top, flipped, then glued underneath (same general grain pattern and wood color).

End grain is more difficult, but heed rwe's warning!


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

All good advise above.
Ive used that technique once and only once.Way too much work after it was done I thought to myself just buy thicker wood.
I found cutting off the ends and flipping them down particularly difficult.

Aj


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Joining end grain on a 45% angle isn't the best idea. I get that it is a good look, but from a structural integrity perspective, the resultant joint will not hold up to much abuse before giving way. Think of a strong pull from underneath, for example, if one tries to pull the table across a carpeted floor.

rwe has a better approach outlined above.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

In my opinion it is not worth the extra effort to save a few dollars. For one, using thicker wood will look far better. Two, mitering the edges and ends is going to be a huge time suck and and the ends will be be very fragile and likely fail over time. It will look odd too because instead of endgrain on the ends you have face grain.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Make a 4/4 top with 8/4 breadboard ends. You could either have the outside two planks be 8/4 or glued up laminations with good grain matching. You'll get the beefy look with mostly 4/4 lumber and it'll be structurally sound.

Or just bite the bullet and use all 8/4 lumber.


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## Cooler (Feb 3, 2016)

> All good advise above.
> Ive used that technique once and only once.Way too much work after it was done I thought to myself just buy thicker wood.
> I found cutting off the ends and flipping them down particularly difficult.
> 
> ...


Small glue blocks underneath will resolve that issue. The glue blocks can be face grain to face grain. Also using "Corner Weld" glue, designed specifically for end grain to end grain glue-ups will help. But the glue blocks will resolve the strength of the joint issue.

And while a wood worker will recognize the various orientations of the end grain, I would venture to guess that no one else would.


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## bonesbr549 (Jan 1, 2010)

> In my opinion it is not worth the extra effort to save a few dollars. For one, using thicker wood will look far better. Two, mitering the edges and ends is going to be a huge time suck and and the ends will be be very fragile and likely fail over time. It will look odd too because instead of endgrain on the ends you have face grain.
> 
> - bondogaposis


This is my first thought too. Your time is worth something and by the time you do all the fuss and muss you spend more than just buy the right material and go!

+1 on what he said.


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## Cooler (Feb 3, 2016)

> In my opinion it is not worth the extra effort to save a few dollars. For one, using thicker wood will look far better. Two, mitering the edges and ends is going to be a huge time suck and and the ends will be be very fragile and likely fail over time. It will look odd too because instead of endgrain on the ends you have face grain.
> 
> - bondogaposis
> 
> ...


There are other reasons. It keeps down the weight and makes it a more portable table.


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## Colin1 (Oct 12, 2016)

Thank you for all the input!

My concerns with going with a solid top are weight and also, I have to admit, price. I'm planning on making this table about 6×3 feet and at 2 inches thick the top alone would weight around 120 pounds….

For the price, the best I'm finding right now is $9.17/board foot so I'd be looking at about $330. It not insanely expensive but I like the sound of $165 better.

I still might go for the solid top but if I decide to go for the thick edges only it seems the consensus here is to just glue another board underneath for thickness.

How do you guys think it would look to use 8/4 lumber for the double up and the rest out of 4/4 to then give the table a total thickness of 3 inches. I wonder how much more obvious it would be at the end grain compared to using the cutoff as the double layer.

The other good idea mentioned was thicker breadboard ends but I find it takes away from the more modern look of the boards all in one direction.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Compromise and buy 6/4 stock. It will finish out at 1-1/4" thick, look great, and be straightforward to build. I have used 6/4 before, and wouldn't want anything thicker for a table.


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## Cooler (Feb 3, 2016)

How about thick boards on both sides and thick breadboards on both ends?


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## AlmostRetired (Jun 11, 2016)

I'm gonn ahave to watch this thread for a bit. Hopefully some of the great ideas come with some picture examples.

I did find this great tutorial….with pics.
https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/custom-woodworking/gluing-pressing-adhesives/How-To-Make-A-Thick-Countertop-Out-Of-Thin-Wood--249194161.html

Roger


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

I know this thread is a bit old, but FWW had an article on just this subject last year.


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## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

how about cutting a 1/8 - 1/4" off the ends of 2" thick boards to make a veneer applique to the skirt
to give the illusion of thick end grain boards. then you will have a pretty solid foundation without the weight.
sorry I don't have sketchup to draw it out for you.

yeah - it is a couple of years old, but I think the subject matter is current.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

This table has a built up edge. the whole top is not a thick as the edge.

















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## AlmostRetired (Jun 11, 2016)

AlaskaGuy
It looks great! Can you tell us how this table was built up to look so thick?



> This table has a built up edge. the whole top is not a thick as the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

There is a photo essay of how the table was built on "Thewoodgal.com" how ever there are no direct links to take you directly to the table build. Follow my instructions and you can find it.

1. Do a google search using "TheWoodGal - Blog about Woodworking, Gardening & Life" with out the quote marks.

That will take to a google search results page. At the top of that page you should see….........................

TheWoodGal - Blog about Woodworking, Gardening & Life.

2. Click on that and it will take you to a pager that says "Flippin' a Floatin' Hutch". Scroll down that page until you come to "Harvest Table on Steroids! article.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

Here is the link for you.
Got you covered AG 

http://www.thewoodgal.com/?p=796


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> Here is the link for you.
> Got you covered AG
> 
> http://www.thewoodgal.com/?p=796
> ...


Don't know what I was doing wrong, I tried that link and didn't work for me. Your link works fine.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> Here is the link for you.
> Got you covered AG
> 
> http://www.thewoodgal.com/?p=796
> ...


I don't know how you do it, but I go to the said page, then copy the address at the top.
Then paste it into comment.


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## Colin1 (Oct 12, 2016)

Hey guys,

Asked this question a long time ago and glad to see it's back with even more great answers! Just wanted to let you know that I decided in the end to just bite the bullet and go with 8/4 stock. Here is a photo of the finished product


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