# What size lumber to start with for workbench top?



## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

I see a lot of people going different routes on the their workbenches in terms of what size stock to start with. I saw a bench that was done in douglas fir using 6×8 timbers, but I worry about running boards that long through the jointer and getting them right. I've determined that in an effort to save cost, I think fir is what I'll be using for the top since it's readily available here. If I can find southern yellow pine, I'll use that, but so far it's looking like fir. I was originally thinking just 2×4's, but checking out some other benches, I think I want a 4-5" top. What do most people use and what are the recommended steps for milling pieces that large?


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## ChesapeakeBob (Nov 11, 2008)

Greg, 2×4's on edge would make an excellent top. Or, you could edge glue 2×6's or 2×8's. If you go this route, I'd use dowel pins or biscuits to maintain your alignment. What did decide on a vise? If it were me, I'd try to find a used Columbian on Ebay or Craig's List.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

A lot depends on your budget and your objectives for the work bench.

If you want a smooth flat surface, I would suggest looking at MDF. This workbench may be a good reference point for you.

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/episodes/season2/206/

You will see that you can download the plans for this workbench.


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## Sawkerf (Dec 31, 2009)

My benchtop is essentially a torsion box with 2×6 framing and a piece of 3/4" ACX screwed to the framing. I built the framework 15 years ago and have replaced the ply 2-3 times over the years. It ain't pretty, but it sure works good. - lol


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

If it were me I'd go with 2-3/4 inch squares in a hardwood. These same squares would also work for the legs. Your rails might be 1-1/2×6 or even 8 inches.

I ran across a pretty good deal on some workbenches that are sold by Grizzly the other day. My son in law's father got this model from Grizzly and I got to see it first hand and for $575 and at 338 lbs I was very impressed with it because it seemed to be well made.

helluvawreck

https://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I can't improve on what Ryan posted in another thread.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

You build what works for you.
A work bench is a very personal thing.
What I like and what works for me might be totally wrong for someone else.

Having said that, I would strongly recommend reading the "Workbench Design Book" by Chris Schwarz.
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/product/1781
I was half way through with my bench when I ran across this book.
I made a few adjustments to my design based on some of his recommendations and am glad I did.

I would suggest that anything over 3 1/2" thick will not fit some of the vises on the market.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^agree with all above. I'd be sheepish about putting massive timbers through any of my middle-of-the-road equipment. I'm planning to build mine a bit thicker than most at 6" thick. I think it's generally accepted that 3-4" of hardwood is typical. Of course with the width, how much pain can you endure in the form of glue-up. If you use thinner laminations, you can incorporate really nice square dogholes. I plan on running a 1" lamination along my bench hole rows and 3" thick everywhere else. Thanks for this great post.


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## JoeMcGlynn (Dec 16, 2011)

I'm building mine starting with some large (6×9) doug fir beams.
http://mcglynnonmaking.wordpress.com/tag/workbenches/

I think you bench design is driven by what kind of work you're going to do. My intent is to do a lot of hand tool work initially, so I'm building something heavy so it doesn't move around, with appropriate work holding for planing stock and cutting joinery. I need to draw up what I'm planning now that I'm getting close to having the beginnings of a bench top


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## SnowFrog (Jun 6, 2011)

I have been planning to build somekind of bench/assembly table for a while too and find that how to build the top to be the most wide open of discussions. Solid or Torsion box, Hard wood, soft wood, MDF, Plywood. It is litterally biwildering.

I think you must first tell a bit more about your design and useage intentions. A bench you will use to bash and bang things on may not look the same as a bench that will be your assembly table. When you say work bench it is not the same picture that appears in everybody's head.

As was said above it is a very personal thing.


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## JoeMcGlynn (Dec 16, 2011)

One other thought, I'd recommend this book by Christopher Schwarz on workbench design.
http://www.lostartpress.com/product_p/bk-wbd01.htm

It provides dimensions and construction details for a bunch of different bench designs, along with an analysis of how well the bench worked for it's intended purpose. I have most of the different "workbench" books and this is my favorite.


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## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

I have that book on order. Should have it soon!  I'll be reading that and his new one. Came in a package with a DVD. I really don't want to use MDF to be honest. If I'm going to go through the effort of building the bench, I'd rather use solid wood. Just a personal preference. I had originally intended to use some hardwood flooring that had been taken up and i have a lot of longer boards left to using those to make the bench top, but it would only leave me with a 2" thick bench by the time I get done milling it all down. So my next option would be SYP (if I can find it) or Fir. My initial was just to buy 2×4's and plane them square and glue them up, would leave me around 3 1/4" thick I would imagine. After doing my research, I think a solidly built leg vice with a wooden screw from Lake Erie Toolworks would do quite well for many years to come.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

First I'd like to voice my opinion on torsion benches. As an assembly table, outfeed table or those types of tables its probably fine, but a real woodworking workbench needs to be heavy. Sturdy is not enough.

My bench is 2 1/2" Elm with a 5" maple skirt about 4" wide. I'm not saying thicker isn't nicer, but I tried to move my bench just a few inches a while back, it plenty heavy enough for any type of woodworking that I'll ever do, and I'll bet I'm rougher on my stuff than 90% of the folks here. (I'm not very delicate when at work)

So, I'm not saying it's not a good idea to make a bench that's thicker, I would if I had the lumber and had it to do again. It's just cool. I'm just suggesting it's not by any means a requirement and if you're more realistic than I typically am, 2 to 2 1/2 inch with a nice skirt will server you fine longer than you will need it to.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^I'm with Don, if I don't injure several people moving mine, it's not heavy enough.


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## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

True, I will probably make myself a little joinery bench or something like I've seen with that oak flooring, but after trying to pull some of the nails out, it'd take weeks just to get the nails pulled out of the flooring knowing that by the time they're milled, I'll be working with 5/8" thick by 2" tall pieces. You need ALOT of those to make a 24" wide workbench, like 40 pieces roughly. That's ALOT of nail pulling. Sooo, I'm thinking 2×4 or 4×6 lumber perhaps. Would be easier, but I just have a hardtime trying to fathom running a timer that large through my old craftsman jointer. That's a heavy beast for a smallish jointer. I may use that oak flooring to glue up some panels and make some boxes or something.


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## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

I second the recommendation for Chris Schwarz new book; very informative. He has pro's and con's for hard wood and soft, including that softwood tops are easier to flatten and more stable. His final recommendation is "The best workbench material is the biggest, driest stuff that you can buy right now. End of story." (page 25).

Personally, I decided to use one idea from the book and go with LVL for the top. It's the biggest, best stuff I can readily get in my area. My other option is 4/4 hardwood, and that is just too many layers and too much margin for error.

You gotta do what you gotta do.


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## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

I'll def have to read the books. They should be at my doorstep any day now. I'm hoping tomorrow so I can start the planning process over the christmas weekend. I'll be right next to 84 lumber later today so I'm gonna stop in and see what they have and some rough costs. Now excuse my ignorance, but what are LVL's? I'm really getting into hand tools lately, planing, dovetail work mostly, and the little rockwell jawhorse isn't cutting it for hand planing. It moves all over the place and I have to stand on it to get it be still and then it makes get into weird angles to plane and what not. So basically a workbench is needed. What about 4×4's in douglas fir? I'm pretty sure Home Depot has them stocked. Also, is using solid 4×4's or 6×6's for the legs a bad idea? should they be laminated?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

LVL-Laminated veneer lumber. Think of it as plywood studs.

I'd prefer solid 4×4 or 6×6 legs. LVL would work to. Douglas fir would work. I have a bench made from regular building grade 2×4s for a 3 1/2" thick bench that was given to me. I have no idea how old it is, but its been through its share of abuse and still holding up just fine. Its not my primary bench, but i wouldn't be afraid to make it so if its all I had.


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## brtech (May 26, 2010)

A couple of considerations:
Dog holes are very useful. Some folks think MDF is not good for dogholes. Others report their's work. Clearly, a doghole in an edge up 2×4 will work. A nice advantage of using 2x's is that you can take one of them, put a row of dog holes in the edge, and then glue it up with the rest (or maybe do that to 2 of them).

When you construct your bench, give some thought to how the stretchers are joined to the legs. A clever trick with 2X's is to put gaps in the legs and a longer center piece in the stretchers to make a poor man's tenon. Now, you need a stretcher between the leg assemblies, and you can't use that trick in both dimensions.

I doubt you would see any difference between a 4×4 leg and a 3 layer 2×4 leg.

A problem with BORG lumber is that it's not dried. You might find some Kiln Dried dimensional lumber in the 84 Lumber. Ask. Some BORGs have some dimensional lumber that is KD. If you make your bench out of wet wood, it might not stay straight enough as it dries.

I think your plan to make a bench out of doug fir will work out just great. I think 2×4s on edge, and either 4×4s or 3 laminated 2×4s will work fine for the legs and stretchers.

Do you have a planer? If so, make the top in a couple of sections that fit through your planer, and then assemble the sections with dowels or biscuits (or leave a gap for clamps and tools).

Do think about vises. Sounds like you have a very limited budget. I think a simple 10" woodworkers vise from anywhere, even HF, with do-it-yourself jaws, plus a tail vise using a Lee Valley screw will be cheap, effective, and satisfactory for your first bench.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Al, this isn't the first time you've said the bench of your dreams will hurt several that might try to move it. That is funny, and I had a hard time thinking how heavy that would be until last week. After a quick thought to move my bench a bit to the left, I got on the end of it and pulled. It didn't move. I tried to lift it. It didn't move. It's staying where it is. 

Anything 3" thick and more is good. How much thicker you want it to be will be set by the material you're able to find AND by the joinery you want to use between the legs and the top. It's a right statement that thinner benches can limit the choice of bench-mounted vices. My bench is actually on the thinner end of the scale and it took awhile to find the end vise of my dreams. And it's too thin for the wagon vise I would have liked to install. Oh well. It's heavy, and stout, and does everything I could ask a bench to do re: planning, sanding, pounding and clamping.

I've only read (own) Chris's first workbench book and it was tremendously important to my bench build. Good luck with yours, I'll be following along!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

^Smit, I'm all talk until I start buying lumber and hardware. My dream is 6" x 72" x 36", no tool tray, no split. 8" mortised legs with massive stretchers. Clear undercarriage. Benchcrafted leg and shoulder. I'll put my deadman on linear bearings just to offend the purists, lol. For the price of a used Honda, I'll be in business!


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Because I'll not build another bench (that I'm aware of at this point, anyway), let's just consider yours for a moment. 

- Dimensions: I'm on board with the thickness and the length. Mine is 60" and I can see after use that another foot would be nice. Critical? No. Nice? Yes. I'm also aware of the "1-foot-itis" in boat ownership, but it doesn't apply to benches for me. 7' would be enough. Depth of 36" is alot. Mine is 24" and is totally sufficient. If pressed for less, I'd decline. Offered more, I'd maybe go to 28" or 30", it's that close to right the way it is. I can't reach across 36"; that would be too counter-top-ish to me.

- Legs and Stretchers: All good.

- Clear Undercarriage: Try it and see if you keep it that way. At a certain point, as you know, that space was determined to be wasted for me and got all kinds of filthy with shavings, dust, etc.

- Vises: Benchcrafted is top of the line, kudos to you. And a leg vise is quite possibly the most awesomest bang-for-the-buck, do-it-all clamping tool I've used (to include leg, face, end and shoulder vises).

- Deadman: Bearings if you must, but they'll choke with dust.  But points will be restored if you add a crochet. They're very useful in tandem with the leg vise and they're just so gosh-darn cute…

My .02, not that you asked… When do you start cutting wood???


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

I am about to get long winded here, but wanted to give you an idea of my thought process, and how I plan on building my next bench, maybe that will give you some ideas…

My priorities for the bench are…

-Mass. No light weight bench skidding accross the floor when I try to use my hand planes would be nice.

-Rigidity. No flexing like the current cedar framed bench does.

-Compatibility with my current vise and accessories.

-Efficient use of precious floor space. This means any bench in my shop MUST provide storage space to boot!

-Low cost. No high end lumber here for me. Simply put, my budget would scream at me. I need to keep things affordable. Unless of course I pick the lucky ticket / numbers, then to heck with it, I go all hardwoods!

For my top, I will be using select SYP 2×4 8' SYP, which around here goes for $1.69 piece. I will need 24 of them for the top itself. Face / edge jointing will be done on my bench top jointer, and work supports. I've done it before, it works fine… A bigger jointer would be better, but this is what I have…

Once S3S, and glued up, in 10" sections, I will run the sections through the planer to get just proud of 3" top dimension, glue the 10" segments together, carefully with cauls, flatten it with my #6, and then move on to the base. The top / legs of the base will be joined using big fat M&T joints to insure solidity, and no mechanical fasteners to get loose. Legs and spreaders will be more SYP 2×4s joined M&T, as well as a cross brace at the center of the spreaders length wise. The legs / spreaders will be slotted to accept 1/2" plywood panels to build basically a 2×4 framed cabinet carcass of sorts. And drawer / door storage is to be added to the mix.

I am aiming for 3" thickness for compatibility with my existing vise. And along with all the other work to take place, I will also make new face inserts for the vise. Once everything is ready for final glue up, I will give it a good going over, a couple of times with BLO, and beeswax where the glue won't be, and then glue it up, clean up any squeeze out, and lastly, mount up the vise and take the current bench out to pasture as a potting bench for LOML (after swapping tops with a laminated PT 2×4 top)...


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

dbhost, that sounds like an excellent approach!


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## JoeMcGlynn (Dec 16, 2011)

One thing I read in the Schwarz books is that a width > 24" is not recommended. The thinking being that you can't fit casework over the end of the bench.

If I had a table saw, planer and jointer I'd seriously consider starting with 2×8 or wider lumber from the big box store, cross cutting and ripping it to get clear lengths of 2×4 (or wider) material, then machining it square and laminating up enough of the to get to my target width. But the thought of hand ripping and hand planing to dimension that many boards isn't appealing. To me at least.

You might also check craigslist in your area for salvage materials. I found a lot of large fir beams for sale in my area.


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## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

I have a planer, a jointer, and a table saw. But if I bought 2×8's, you really start with 7 1/2 " - 1/8" for the saw kerf so you get 2 pieces 3 1/8ish so essentially you start with regular planed 2×4s.


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## JoeMcGlynn (Dec 16, 2011)

The point about buying wider boards is that then you saw out just the CLEAR parts. You can't buy a clear (knot-free) 2×4, but you can cut them from a larger board. The longer, wider boards hace fewer knots overall.

PS: planing knots isn't much fun. Not by hand anyway. Ask me how I know


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## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

Oh I def get it but it seems like you waste a lot of wood that way. But less knots is better for sure. Why does everyone have to have such beautiful benches? I have bench envy! Mines not so much the cost, like my budget isn't cheesepuffs and buttons, but I think there is a diminishing return at some point. If you spend $2000 on a workbench, id bee afraid to use it. I'm from the world of getting the most for my money. I want good vises that I won't be unhappy with, but I don't need the most expensive crazy costing vise. I want the most for my money. I think by using pine for the workbench, it will certainly be solid and heavy enough. It sure holds my house together just fine. Then I want a face vise (thinking that wood screw leg vise from lake Erie) the colombian woodworkers vise I have for the side, and then a homemade moxon vise and of course dog holes. But I'm gonna read up more in the workbenches book as soon as it gets to my house.


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## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=4088180&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=20&vc=1

I just stumbled upon this and I'm thinking I might go this route. This was en excellent build and I realized that I bought 6 really nice kiln dried 4×4 in douglas fir from home depot like a week ago when I was going to make just a little joinery table (which then turned into a full blown workbench build). They are gorgeous and I think I'm gonna pick up a few more and start letting them sit in the workshop. I'll be honest, I'm going to do as much handtool work as possible to learn a few things, but I may resort to using some power tools for sake of speed. The build above was very well documented and had some great ideas. I like the large leg vice as well.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

I gotta ask. Who says you can't buy knot free 2×4s? I see them all the time. You just got to pick through the piles at Home depot… I guess it varies by region, but around here anyway, I have found clear, or at least relatively clear 2×4 every time I have gone in….


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## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

I don't think I've come across a whole lot of knotty 2×4's either come to think of it. You have to dig, but there are plenty of decent boards. I actually went to a lumberyard called Johnson Lumber yesterday and to be honest, I thought the lumber at Home Depot was actually nicer. Also, Lowes has crappy whitewood for everything, but Home Depot had some Douglas Fir and Hem Fir in decent shape. In the 5 mins that I looked, the 4×4's that I bought were pretty knot free and pretty damn straight. I was impressed. I shall go back and grab a couple more to make my top I believe.


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## JoeMcGlynn (Dec 16, 2011)

That was me - sorry. If you you can get straight, clear 2×4s I'm totally jealous. I've picked through the piles and every one I've looked at either has knots, a serious twist or bow, or a waney edge.


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## jmos (Nov 30, 2011)

Unfortunately, I'm with Joe, and have had no luck getting clear 2×4 near me. I considered using 4×4's also, but same problem; poor quality.


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## BerBer5985 (Oct 10, 2011)

I'm gonna check and see if they have 4×6's or 6×6's in the same wood for the legs while I'm there. If they're decent, those should work just fine under that bench without having to laminate all the legs up. Also, I'm building this bench with the excuse that I'm certainly going to need a few more hand tools to help with the build. I think I might need a good shoulder plane, and a good tenon saw and a set of a mortise chisels. Any other recommendations for tools I might need. I already have 3 #5 Stanleys, a #4 Fulton and #4 Craftsman, an Ohio Tool Jointer #7, and 60 1/2 low angle block plane. I also have the veritas saw set with the crosscut, dovetail, and fine dovetail. and a set of new Stanley Chisels . So what else do I need?


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## JoeMcGlynn (Dec 16, 2011)

I remember seeing a write up on making a 2×4 bench a while back, did some digging and found the link:

http://picnicpark.org/keith/woodworking/workbench/BobAndDavesGoodFastAndCheapBench-ne.pdf

Built by a 12-year-old with hand tools. I was impressed.


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