# This blade changed how I feel about my bandsaw.



## Surfside

Nice review. Is it a carbide or carbon blade?


----------



## ScottKaye

Hey Jeff,

Im just beggining trying to figure out how to do the coplanar thing too on my early 80's Delta 14". I read a couple of articles on the subject that both involve placing a shim/washer on one of the wheel hubs behind the wheel thus pushing the wheel out a fraction of an inch. I think mine needs more TLC than a shim. I too have a riser block and wondered if that isnt where my problem started. Now Im only theorizing here, but I suppose to find out if the wheels are truly coplaner with each other one would have to hold a straight edge (looking at the two wheels facing you) on the left side of the wheel hubs and again on the right side of the wheel hubs, which will require table top removal. Am I right thinking this? Where did you find your information reguarding adjusting the riser block, Id love to read that. Basically, Id like to hear how you tackled the job.

Scott


----------



## dczward

If this is the first time you changed the blade, no wonders it's day & night. I'm of the opinion that we woodworkers often make the mistake of keeping one blade on their BS for months or years, and fighting all the problems that ensues. My guess: your improvement 10% setup tweaking 90% new sharp blade.


----------



## jeffwedekind

*Surfside*, 
They call it Silicon Steel

I agree *Douglas*, lesson learned the hard way. I think the quality companies do a great disservice to their saws, and indeed the whole idea of bandsaws, by even including such garbage.

*Scott*, 
Your on the right track. My block pushed the top wheel back probably 1/8 of an inch or more. I wondered for a long time how come my saw tracked so poorly before having this particular A'HA moment. I have never run across any literature showing any one else having this problem, so I winged it. Its been a long time, but I recall buying this block kit on a clearance rack(HMM wonder why?) I removed the block, then pulled the pins out and filed them down the requisite amount to get it right(think semi-circle here). If you need to do this, make sure that the wheels are co planar with a straight edge in both planes (up/down, as well as side/side), as its possible, if you remove or regrind the pins, to get the upper arm twisted a bit. Its not that hard. Trial and error rule the day here. As far as over removing material, it wouldn't be a big deal, as you will just tighten the hell out of the bolt after tweaking it as needed. Mine has never moved in the past year or so since doing the job. Honestly, I don't think the pins are needed excepting to help stabilize the upper arm till you get it tightened down. 
Certainly, I am no bandsaw expert, and I'm sure many would disagree with messing with the indexing pins, but it sure worked for me. If I can help in any way let me know.


----------



## uncledavid

Nice work, I am looking for a 14" band saw myself, trying to decide which one to get has taken me 3 months. and still have not decided….Jet, Rikon, Delta, ect…


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

great review jeff ,-blades are a game changer


----------



## JGM0658

Before you try to set your wheels coplanar (and ruin your band saw) I suggest you watch this video.


----------



## waho6o9

Excellent video Jorge G.

Thank you


----------



## ScottKaye

that was an excellent video… Makes me think twice about sticking a shim behind my top wheel.


----------



## Surfside

The band saw blade cut through the wood perfectly.


----------

