# Do you use a strop when sharpening hand plane blades?



## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

This question has been bugging me for a while and searching for the answer got me more confused:
Is it necessary to use a strop after you have gone through 600, 1200 grit DMT stones and finally the 8000 grit water stone? is a piece of hardwood or MDF loaded with some polishing compound good enough as a strop or do you prefer a thick piece of leather?


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

Leather strop here. It gets used after final honing. Green compound.
Bill


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Leather strop with green compound for me, too.


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## WoodNSawdust (Mar 7, 2015)

No, I tried it once and did not see an improvement in performance. So why spend the time?


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## RichardHillius (Oct 19, 2013)

I'm not sure it's completely necessary after 8000 grit to use a strop but I tend to just take a couple strokes after honing to polish the blade a bit. It is useful to extend the amount the time between having to go back to the stones. If the chisel/plane iron starts to feel a bit dull take it to the strop and clean it up rather than back to the stone. I can usually do this several times before I have to go back to the stones and it helps keep the edge very sharp longer.

I use a leather strop attached to a handle myself but I don't know why MDF with very fine polishing compound wouldn't work just as good if you prefer that method.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

If I want it that sharp, I use automotive rubbing and then polishing compound over brown paper stroking away from the edge toward me on both sides.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

3-4 strokes over the strop with green buffing compound. 
I do this during sharpening AND once in a while while using the tool (to freshen up the edge).


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

The strop I'm using for my chisels is an old leather belt stapled to a piece of wood, the problem is,the belt is only 1.5" wide so I could not use it for my hand plane blades (I don't think), haven't found a piece of leather wide enough for the blades yet.


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## PtboJim (Aug 26, 2012)

What!!! Without reading too much into this, does mean your coming over to the dark side, going to unplug and start using hand planes Ken?


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

With the hunting season in full force, it would be nice to have a moose/elk or deer hide to make a strop.


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

> What!!! Without reading too much into this, does mean your coming over to the dark side, going to unplug and start using hand planes Ken?
> 
> - PtboJim


Lol, to be honest I find it very challenging to hand plane anything and do it right but I'm willing to learn, I should have asked you for a few tips when I had a chance .


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

> With the hunting season in full force, it would be nice to have a moose/elk or deer hide to make a strop.
> 
> - mahdee


I thought it would be easier than it is to find a decent piece of leather,tried ebay but $30 for a small vegetable tan leather? that's crazy, anyhow,I located a boot maker near the city of Peterborough that I might try.


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## PtboJim (Aug 26, 2012)

> What!!! Without reading too much into this, does mean your coming over to the dark side, going to unplug and start using hand planes Ken?
> 
> - PtboJim
> 
> ...


I am still here….drop me a line if there is anything I can help with.


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

Thanks Jim, I will be in touch.
Mahdi, it's good to know about automotive polishing compound /brown paper, I have tons of those.

Thank you all for your quick replies, it looks like using a strop especially for quick honing is the way to go.


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## Awlsome (Oct 1, 2015)

I do. My philosophy of stropping though is that I only want to take the wire edge off from the last step - not add curvature to the edge. Thusly, I only make one or two passes on the strop (green compound), being careful to not apply too much pressure on the back side of the plane (and keeping it FLAT). Strop too much and you'll change the edge geometry. Whether this is relevant in practice for planes, I do not know. It is certainly relevant for chisels and knives.


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## iminmyshop (Dec 9, 2012)

+1 on the strop. It takes the sharpening that extra little step. It takes VERY little time and is definitely noticeable. The safest and most effective tool is a very sharp tool.


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

Awlsome, I learned I could use a secondary edge on the side where the wire edge is , it would make the job of sharpening hand plane blades much easier especially for a novice like me.
I got the hang of sharpening chisels ,well, almost but I find bigger blades a bit more difficult.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Ken, I claimed a beat up (green) leather recliner that had be set curbside. Cut the leather arm coverings from it, lots of shop leather. Contact cement to a piece of hardwood, instant strop base. And cheap, too.


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## Tim457 (Jan 11, 2013)

Ken, I heard lots of people saying leather could be had cheaply from a wide variety of places, but everywhere I looked I found none or very expensive. I ended up buying a bin of leather scraps from a garage sale. I can cut off a piece and drop it in an envelope for you if you want, just pm me.


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

Old leather belt makes a good strop.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

> With the hunting season in full force, it would be nice to have a moose/elk or deer hide to make a strop.
> 
> - mahdee
> 
> ...


This would work. $20. Would last for decades. I bought a piece of appropriate leather for ~$10, and glued it to a hardwood scrap. I've been using it for 3-4 years now. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wood-Handle-Leather-Sharpening-Strop-12-long-8x2-leather-Knives-arrow-heads-/111623625874?hash=item19fd495c92:g:QJIAAOSw7NNT0fRK


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Leather and green. I strop the hell out of my tools. Found a couple sq feet at a flea market for a few bucks.

Edit: craft stores usually have leather too.


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## Sigung (Nov 20, 2013)

Absolutely, and the reason is that once you establish that edge, you will need to resharpen frequently to keep it that way. Stropping is the quickest and easiest way to keep the edge razor sharp without having to go through the grits again. Go to your local leather shop, most cities have one, and get yourself a piece of cowhide. Cut a piece of generous size, and glue it to a granite slab with the tanned, or smooth side up. Use the green compound to charge it. You will hardly ever have to sharpen again if you strop it frequently.


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

Hobby stores typically would have scrap leather for sale. Check it out. You could make a lot of strops with one of those scrap bundles. Just cut the leather & epoxy on to a piece of wood scrap.


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

I found a leather couch on the side of the road which has given me more leather than I know what to do with. I used a big portion of it for when I need to put a finished surface on a solid ground to work on the bottom side.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

Try Tandy leather Ken. I just bought some vegetable tanned bellies for a very reasonable $13. That covered the jaws of my moxon vice and the vice chop on my bench with enough scraps left over for multiple strops. Fuzzy side up.

I strop my plane irons and chisels often during use. Green compound here.


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

Thank you all for your comments, I always thought the proper leather for a strop was the thick (~3.5mm or thicker) kind which is used to make boots,saddles, holsters, etc. but it looks like a few of you have been using the thinner leather form a couch/chair .
I have an old leather portfolio binder ,if the leather from a couch is good enough maybe I'll use that binder then, someone mentioned an alternative would be a chamois for polishing cars but I'll try the binder I have first.
Wow you live and you learn.
Tim , Thank you for your kind offer, I think I'll be alright now.
I don't have that green honing compound yet,will get one from LV, for now I'll try a grey polishing compound that I didn't know I had! or Mahdee's idea of car polish.
I'm off to my shop trying to sharpen my blades,Last week I sharpened all my chisels and have no hair left on my hands!
Thank you all again for reading my thread and all your feedbacks.
Ken.


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## paratrooper34 (Apr 27, 2010)

I always strop after sharpening and I do it to keep the edges fresh between sharpening. I have a WS3000 that is pretty much primarily used with the stropping wheel, so it is quick and easy to turn it on, strop whatever, and done.


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## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

I use MDF loaded with polishing compound. Makes a mirror finish on the edge which is not necessary. Just a personal preference. If you watch youtube videos of Peter Sellers; he doesn't go to such extremes sharpening and still gets great results with his tools Do what works best for you.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Yes, its good enough.

I've tried it and never seen a discernable difference between a blade polished to 8000 or 12,000 vs taken one step further on a strop. I do, however strop my carving tools and I touch up a chisel when working with softwood.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Saved the belt from my nail bag rig. Cut a short section of it, and loaded it up. Belt was 2" wide. About ready to cut another "fresh" section. When I'm using the chisel, though, a quick touch up for me would be a few strokes along the jean's pant legs. Three or four times, each side, and back to chopping.

When running through the grits i use, I stop at 2.5K grit, then the strop…done. Maybe ten strokes each side….


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## ElChe (Sep 28, 2014)

Been thinking of trying the mdf with green compound myself.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

-1 on the strop. Here is my reasoning.


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## planepassion (Nov 24, 2010)

Yes, leather strop charged with green compound. I find that it makes a noticeable difference. As in, so sharp that it painlessly shaves hair off my arm. Without it, it would hurt (pulling my hair a bit) before cutting it off my arm. I use this step for sharpening my jointer, smoother and moulding plane irons as well as my paring chisels.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

Try Tandy Leather (http://www.tandyleather.com/en/). I bought a nice large piece I have made strops from of various shapes and sizes. I really could some more. Its good for wood hammer faces, hand ends for wood chisels, and a host of other things.

Planeman


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## distrbd (Sep 14, 2011)

Planeman, thank s for the link, Chrissteff also seems to be happy with the package he got,they have a Canadian site with very reasonable prices,good to know if all else fails.
OSU55, very interesting method,,thanks.
I still want to try that MDF strop myself but for some reason I think a leather strop will be easier to use.
Thank you all again for continuing to share your wisdom with the rest, I enjoyed reading every one of your replies.


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## bearkatwood (Aug 19, 2015)

No, but I wouldn't mind trying it. I would like to get some stropping compound either. My sharpening is all done on DMT diamond plates and they shave well when sharpened. The extra extra fine does a great job.


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## SFP (Dec 17, 2014)

> Absolutely, and the reason is that once you establish that edge, you will need to resharpen frequently to keep it that way. Stropping is the quickest and easiest way to keep the edge razor sharp without having to go through the grits again. Go to your local leather shop, most cities have one, and get yourself a piece of cowhide. Cut a piece of generous size, and glue it to a granite slab with the tanned, or smooth side up. Use the green compound to charge it. You will hardly ever have to sharpen again if you strop it frequently.
> 
> - Jerry


I strop my edges much more than sharpening with stones. I rarely pick up a chisel without stropping it first. Before a larger project the planes that will be used get a stropping as well. Much faster than using my stones and the edge is more sharp as well; which means they should stay sharper, longer!


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> Yes, leather strop charged with green compound. I find that it makes a noticeable difference. As in, so sharp that it painlessly shaves hair off my arm. Without it, it would hurt (pulling my hair a bit) before cutting it off my arm. I use this step for sharpening my jointer, smoother and moulding plane irons as well as my paring chisels.
> 
> - Brad


What grit are you stopping at? If you honed to 8000 you would get the same result without stropping.

I'm not "anti strop" but it appears some people think this is an indispensable step in the honing process.

But it is not unless you are only honing 800 or 1000 (or 600 ala Paul Sellers). And, I would add, if not done properly will actually dull a blade.

If there is any research proving a stropped blade holds its edge longer, then theres a very good reason to do it.

Bottom line is whatever works for you do it. Just wanted to dispel the notion stropping is a necessity for those reading the threads who may be working through the sharpening vortex.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

My .02: Put a little white compound on the inside of a cereal box or any cardboard similar, and draw your edge across it a few times, and presto, you will not believe the edge. Of course, be sure the cardboard is on flat glass or anything that is totally flat.


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## LakesideWoodworker (Mar 17, 2018)

> Try Tandy Leather (http://www.tandyleather.com/en/). I bought a nice large piece I have made strops from of various shapes and sizes. I really could some more. Its good for wood hammer faces, hand ends for wood chisels, and a host of other things.
> 
> Planeman
> 
> - Planeman40


Thanks for the tip on Tandy leather. I took a look at the Tandy website and it looks like they have different thicknesses of veg tan leather - Some less than 2 mm and some between 2 and 3 mm. What did you find works for you vice faces and for your strops?


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## LakesideWoodworker (Mar 17, 2018)

> Try Tandy leather Ken. I just bought some vegetable tanned bellies for a very reasonable $13. That covered the jaws of my moxon vice and the vice chop on my bench with enough scraps left over for multiple strops. Fuzzy side up.
> 
> I strop my plane irons and chisels often during use. Green compound here.
> 
> - chrisstef


Hi Chris, thanks for your post. I checked Tandy and it looks like they have different thicknesses. What thickness did you find works for jaw covering on your vices? For the strops?


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

Check this out


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## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

This is an antique thread, but here goes something to help anyway:



> Thanks for the tip on Tandy leather. I took a look at the Tandy website and it looks like they have different thicknesses of veg tan leather - Some less than 2 mm and some between 2 and 3 mm. What did you find works for you vice faces and for your strops?
> 
> - LakesideWoodworker


For vice faces I like thickest 'whole grain' veg tan leather I can find. One leather industry name is 'sole' leather. Usually at least 10oz, preferably 12oz+ or 5mm+ thick.

Strop leather can be most any thickness. Although something less than 1/16 thick, or 4oz will wear out much faster than thicker skin.

PS - Any color other than plain veg tanned leather has dye added. It will leach out when wet, and mark on even kiln dry wood. :-(

PPS - Cowhide is split to make various thicknesses sold. Thick sole leather is un-cut, and not as easy to find as thinner materials online. Since wood working use of leather doesn't care about color consistency, and doesn't need meter long belt pieces; best way to buy it is from the seconds bin at a retail Tandy store. It is stuff you won't find on internet (except when buying small scraps on feabay). I picked up a 1/2 hide (life time supply) for less than 25% of normal retail, because of a couple small holes and too much color variation across skin.
Works perfect on my refurbished Wilton vices (see projects for bench post)

Best Luck.


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## LakesideWoodworker (Mar 17, 2018)

Thanks WoodenDreams. This video answers one of my questions. I watched Rob Cosman who suggests using 16000 ceramic stone as the final step but doesn't use a strop. I currently have the 3 DMT diamond stones with the finest one being 1200 grit. I was trying to decide if I should get the 16000 (I am not getting the edge I would like with my current approach) or if I should go to a strop. Sounds like the 8000 water stone and strop (much cheaper) would give the same result as the 16000 ceramic stone.


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## LakesideWoodworker (Mar 17, 2018)

Thanks CaptainKlutz. That is really helpful. I will check to see what I can find locally.

I am new to LumberJocks but am finding so much help here. Great group of people willing to share expertise and experience.


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## Offgrid_WoodButcher (Mar 27, 2019)

I use 3 or 4 strokes on a leather strop with green polishing compound each time I sharpen a plane blade and also every time prior using a chisel. Take less than 30 second and keep the edge always fresh and sharp.


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## LakesideWoodworker (Mar 17, 2018)

Thanks Offgrid. You have a very interesting project on your blog. It was also fun to read how your family heritage got you interested in woodworking. According to my late grandmother, my Great-Great Grandfather was also a furniture maker and local coffin maker in Germany but I never got to know him as his children immigrated to the US. Great you have some tools passed down from your Great-Grandfather.


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## Offgrid_WoodButcher (Mar 27, 2019)

> Thanks Offgrid. You have a very interesting project on your blog. It was also fun to read how your family heritage got you interested in woodworking. According to my late grandmother, my Great-Great Grandfather was also a furniture maker and local coffin maker in Germany but I never got to know him as his children immigrated to the US. Great you have some tools passed down from your Great-Grandfather.
> 
> - LakesideWoodworker


Thank you Lakeside, my great grand father sawmill is still up there, I wish I was able to use it and conserve it but life is what it is. I feel lucky to have met him and I keep very good memories about that even if it was a looooong time ago.

Regards,


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## Wintergreen78 (Feb 11, 2019)

I go to 8000 on a water stone and then strop. I don't think the strop is necessary after going that high in grit. but I've convinced myself that the edge is better. It only takes a few seconds, so I don't see any harm.

Now you've got me curious. I may stop at 1000 next time then strop and see what the edge is like.


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## Offgrid_WoodButcher (Mar 27, 2019)

> I go to 8000 on a water stone and then strop. I don't think the strop is necessary after going that high in grit. but I've convinced myself that the edge is better. It only takes a few seconds, so I don't see any harm.
> 
> Now you've got me curious. I may stop at 1000 next time then strop and see what the edge is like.
> 
> - Wintergreen78


I also sharpen to grit 8000 but still give it a few strokes on the strop and later use the strop as the regular "maintenance" between sharpening sessions.


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## LakesideWoodworker (Mar 17, 2018)

Thanks for the information that going to 8000 works and that you both strop after that. It makes sense. I think I will go with that approach and forget about the 16000 stone. Seems like it would be overkill.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

Couple of small rectangles off a hump, comes with green bar. less than 20 bux

Some guy on another woodworking forum sells humps pretty regular in the sales area there. For a lot of people a hump would be a lifetime supply.


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## BlueRidgeDog (Jan 2, 2019)

No strop here….I use a buffing wheel. I hit each side and takes 10 seconds. I don't recommend it though as if you have not done it your entire life it is easy to dull a blade vs polish it. It is also a bit dangerous. Come to think of it, it may be time to use a strop . Actually the buffing wheel is the last step in all my sharpening from large to small.


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## ahewitt (Oct 30, 2017)

Leather has never steered me wrong in all of my sharpening experiences


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

I don't use a strop but I do beat the edge up and down on the palm of my hand after the finest grit. I was taught that way years ago and just always do it.


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## LakesideWoodworker (Mar 17, 2018)

Ahewitt, sounds like you are "bullish" on using the strop and won't be "cowed" into changing away from leather.


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## MikeDilday (Feb 21, 2017)

I guess I am the odd man out. I use the WorkSharp 3000 up to 1000 grit disc. Works great. Should I do something different?


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## Red5hft (Dec 27, 2018)

I also end with 8000 grit water stone. Recently started using leather strop with green coumpound and see better final results. Keep in Mind I sharpen plane irons for the enjoyment anD go well beyond what is necessary for daily use. I just love the sensation of an insanely sharp plane gliding through a workpiece.


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## Kirk650 (May 8, 2016)

I'm a "strop and go kinda guy". I hope nobody already said that. I didn't read all the comments. Yes, I use a strop.


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## jonoseph (Dec 13, 2015)

My Dad used to rub the sharpened blade across his palm a few times to make the flake at the edge drop off. It`s safer to use a piece of rolled up cotton cloth . I use a piece of leather and polishing compound myself . I took apart a broken chair and saved all the leather .


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

If there's a burr you can swipe the chisel or plane iron sideways through some soft endgrain. I never worry about it, its going to break off the first time you use it.

Re: strop, I am a believer in the "dubbing effect".

I mostly use a block of MDF now. I always suspected the leather could dub the end, as you're doing it free hand.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

Using a leather strop the polishing movement is away from the edge.


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