# How Long should a 10 inch 60 tooth carbide saw blade last?



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Hey LJ's!*

I just replaced my 40 tooth carbide blade in my Cabinet saw. I was cutting 45 degree miters on my table saw in pine. I noticed the blade burning the wood. Took it out and used a soft wire brush on the teeth and it seemed to work OK. I then took some oven cleaner and gave the blade a degunking.

I was cutting a 1 and 3/4 inch thick walnut board. Attempting to square it up and the piece started smoking? So I replaced the 60 tooth with a 40 tooth that I had on hand. The Kerf is half as thick?

Wondering how long (hours ) you might use a blade? After that what steps do you take? I have a few blades that I was thinking could be sharpened, but I live in a pretty rural area.

*I appreciate your sharing your thoughts and experiences.*

Tom


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Hey Tom
Blade life differs according to what material your cutting and how much and how good a blade you have.Keeping blades clean makes a big difference. I have some blades that are well over 10 years old,of course I've had them resharpened a number of time. I've read the oven cleaner eats up carbide ,I use wash soda to clean my blades and router bits


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

60 teeth is a lot for a board 1 3/4 thick. The 40T cut much better I am guessing? Soft woods tend to gunk up blades quicker than harwood, in my experience anyway.

I only use 3 blades as a general rule. A thin kerf Freud Fusion 40T combo blade that cuts both rips and crosscuts well, but not great. A thin kerf 24T Freud industrial rip blade I use for ripping anything over an inch thick. The 3rd is a 40T Diablo blade from HD that I use on plywood. I clean them every time they come out of the saw. A clean blade will cut better and last longer.

Do not use a metal bristle brush on the carbide teeth. It can damage them.

To clean the blade I use regular 409 and a plastic bristle brush I bought at the box store. I lay the blade in a plastic pan you would drain a car's oil into spray the 409 around the blade and brush the gunk off. It is very little work if you clean the often. I do the same for router bits.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Jim,

I think I got the oven cleaner tip from Charles? LOL! Hdn't hear any negative about it.

Thanks for your input.


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## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

Hi Tom, if your timber is dry, you shouldn't be having any problem, I certainly wouldn't use oven cleaner if your blades are carbide tipped, it is reknowned for damaging them. 
As for sharpening saw blades, why not do your own, I have used John Heisz' method and it works, there are others on YT, might save you a trip and a few bob (sorry dollars!!!...lol ). 
I now use an 80T thin kerf for all my cuts and have no problems, not strictly right, but it works for me.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Joey,

I had used this blade in ripping /truing up my rough chainsaw lumber. Of course it was much greener at the time but I didn't notice any issues.

Would a gummed up blade burn on a 45 degree miter cut?

Thanks for your input


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

For years I clean my blades using straight and cheap ammonia, it works like charm.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Phil,

How are you feeling?

Two "Do not use oven cleaner!" No more! Looking at the harbor frieght circular saw sharpener. It's sold on Amazon (chicago brand) Also have seen a YouTube video on it. Well done on strenghts and weakness of the tool. Will check out John Hieisz.

Thanks!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Bert,

I just bought some. LOL!

I have other dirty blades to test out.

Thanks!


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

A dirty blade will burn wood and cut poorly. I use purple formula Simple Green to clean all my blades as well as my drum sander paper. I soak em for 24 hours and the hose them off with the pressure nozzle on the water hose. Rarely need to brush at all.

I send my blades out to be sharpened (even the cheap Diablo blades can be resharpened.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Andy,

I've heard good things about it.

When you say "sent out," are you mailing them?

Thanks


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## joey502 (Mar 30, 2014)

I send my blades to a sharpening service. Mailing them is an option since you are in a more rural area.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

It's hard to say how long a blade should stay sharp. Just got to go with your experience using that blade. 
Kind of like keeping a mental worksheet on how good it cut when you first got it and compared to how it's cutting when you think it's getting dull, then weigh that out against how much material you think you've cut. 
I can usually tell when the material I'm cutting is getting harder to push through the saw than normally.
I always have them sharpened by professional sharpening companies. 
You'll get a way better sharpen than if you did it yourself. Blades will last much longer between sharpening.
They can fix chipped teeth if you have any. It will keep your blades true.

EDIT: Unless I'm cutting a lot of soft wood like pine, my blades get dull before the teeth get a build up of pitch on them. I never have to clean them, I just send them out. I probably would get a little more out of them if I did, but it's not worth the time for me.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Tom, I take mine to a place in Tulsa (but I see a lot of blades of all kinds that have been sent to them from all over). UPS/Fed X/etc.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

My 40T blades get tortured. So not a good gauge to go by. Lots of rough lumber, tree bark and anything stuck to through it. My 60T & 80T blades I have had for years.


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## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

I have not taken the time to read any post here, my uncle in the 50s and 60s used to get Popular Mechanics and Science, the back page always had an advertisement for a carburetor for your car, "'30 days on a tank of gas"' as he said I can get 6 months on mine if I dont drive it!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have gone through a Freud cutting Brazilian Cherry hard wood flooring in 2 days, regular hard woods depending on projects and use 6 -12 months at the least.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

I use a 5 gallons bucket that I cut about 1 1/2" from the bottom,a 10" blade fits just right in it. 
I cover the with ammonia and I live in it for about 30 minutes, all the gunk comes right off.
I let the ammonia seats for a while, the gunk falls on the bottom and I put he ammonia back in the bottle for next time


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

jbay,

Thanks. In the past when a blade gets dull I'd just buy a new one and figure it into the cost of the project as time is money. Saw blades vary in cost and quality. There are some tips and tricks that extend the life of a blade that others know. Thanks for your input.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Andy, Monte, Bert

Thanks!


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

> *Hey LJ s!*
> 
> I just replaced my 40 tooth carbide blade in my Cabinet saw. I was cutting 45 degree miters on my table saw in pine. I noticed the blade burning the wood. Took it out and used a soft wire brush on the teeth and it seemed to work OK. I then took some oven cleaner and gave the blade a degunking.
> 
> ...


Just a moment. I'll check


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Conifur,

"I mean, so just do you need mommy's attention?? If I only use a blade one weekend out of 10, how long will it last?? If I use it every day, how long will it last?? Go figure!!!!!!!!
It just like the idiots here that post for some thing, they could have just Googled."

Thanks for your input. Your knowledge and information is appreciated.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

Doc,
It cost me 16 bucks to have a 40 tooth sharpened / 19 bucks for a 80 tooth.
I'm paying 87 bucks for a 40 tooth Tenyru Gold blade. (which I love) I've never really counted, but I know I'm getting at least 8 - 10 sharpens out of a blade.
A good for an Example: 
8 resharpens at 16.00 per blade = 128.00
8 new blades at 87.00 per blade = 696.00
For me a blade may last on average 2 - 3 months, of course depending on


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

jbay,

I'm thinking when I go see my clients in Mankato MN (the biggest town around here) I can see if there is a place that sharpens blades.

Is the 87 dollar blade that good? LOL!


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

> Conifur,
> 
> "I mean, so just do you need mommy's attention?? If I only use a blade one weekend out of 10, how long will it last?? If I use it every day, how long will it last?? Go figure!!!!!!!!
> It just like the idiots here that post for some thing, they could have just Googled."
> ...


Class act, thanks for the laugh Doc!


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## CajunWoodArtist (Oct 27, 2015)

Tom, for me the process of cleaning the blades is important maintenance. I cut all sorts of woods of different ranges from soft cypress to a big variety of hard woods. I have 6 table saw blades and two miter saw blades. I will take one off and replace it with a cleaned one and then clean the one i took off. A visual inspection makes it easy to know when to take one off for cleaning. Usually after each cleaning I feel the carbide tips with my fingers and determine if they need sharpening.
Fortunately I know a sharpening service that comes to my house and picks up and returns the blades.
A sharp blade makes a world of difference as does a quality blade.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Greg,

LOL! Guess I have a really long way to go? Got to make a few bucks to have sharpening service come to sharpen your blades. :<)

I also have to develop a routine for maintenance, sharpening etc.

What type of blades do you use?

Thanks.

Tom


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## skatefriday (May 5, 2014)

> I mean, so just do you need mommy s attention?? If I only use a blade one weekend out of 10, how long will it last?? If I use it every day, how long will it last?? Go figure!!!!!!!!
> It just like the idiots here that post for some thing, they could have just Googled.
> 
> - conifur


Wow. Why all the hate? Don't like the thread? Move on.

Does lumberjocks have a block users feature? Conifer just made the list.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> jbay,
> 
> I m thinking when I go see my clients in Mankato MN (the biggest town around here) I can see if there is a place that sharpens blades.
> 
> ...


There worth it to me. They seem to stay sharper longer than some of the other blades I have and they have a lot of carbide on them for re-sharpening. I have at least 6 of the Gold Medal blades, probably 3 more that are specialty blades for Melamine. The Melamine blades provide the best chip free bottom side cut out of any other Melamine blades I have used. I probably have at least 30+ different type blades in inventory.


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

Like many others said, it depends on what you cut and how often. I just replaced a Dewalt 40T blade that I had been using for 2 years cutting hardwoods, PT lumber (do not even ask why), plywood and OSB at times. Got two years out of it according to the date I put on the saw when I installed it. Replaced with a Freud 40T last week.


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## MLWilson (Jun 28, 2015)

I prefer a 24T blade, Tom. Cuts faster, burns less. I've never tried oven cleaner. There are blade cleaning products that are cheap, and work well. And they smell good, too (the orange stuff in the spray can). As for sharpening: Go on YT and teach yourownbadself to sharpen your blades. (Check Paul Sellars, for instance. Now, he's all about the hand tools, but, he has admitted, publicly, to having a table saw that, I imagine, he sharpens his blades for, too. I've never replaced any blade due to dulling. I've replaced several, however, lost to the SawStop brake. Besides which, not being a daily user of my table saw, I don't buy those expensive blades. The ones that come in packs of two or three, for thirty to fifty dollars do fine. You usually get a 24T, a 40T, and a 60T. The two packs are usually 24T and 60T.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

skatefriday,

I noticed that the comment was removed. Maybe That individual made the list????


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

woodbutcherbynight,

LOL! I'm a woodbutcher trying to do better? LOL!

I haven't put a starting date on til today. I will have to look into more expensive blades. The ones that don't sing when they are on the big saw.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Mark,

Thanks for your thoughts, and prefernences.

Been out in the shop burning wood today. LOL! Saw your posting, but I have a customer project so I'm being more active in the shop.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

yeah, steel wire brush or banging the tips around isn't good.

Ive had a WW2 for a little over a year and have put a lot of wood through it and it's given cleaner cuts for a lot longer than the Diablo of the same tooth pattern and it's still going strong.

There are many places you can mail them off to. That would be my suggestion.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

What blade was it? Not all carbide tipped blades are equal…far from it.

Edge life depends on a lot of things, including the brand and model of the blade. Time doesn't dull blades, usage and abusage does. If it was a cheap Workforce, HF, Avanti/Avanti Pro, Ryobi, Oldham contractor, DW construction, or other comparable off name blade, it's likely that the carbide is soft and that the sharpening wasn't done well in the first place, so I wouldn't expect much from a blade like that.

If it was a well made blade like Freud, CMT, Forrest, Infinity, Tenryu, Guhdo, Amana Tools, etc., I'd expect to have decent edge life depending on the variables it faced.

Buy quality, keep em clean, and use them within their intended scope, and they'll last longer. Good blades start at about $30.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

Something else you can do between sharpening is to touch the blade with a diamond file, this does not replace areal sharpening but it helps.
My blades last for ever.
I use Freud and Irwin Marples blades


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

No oven cleaner, wire brush!!! BAD!
Simple Green or A & H Washing Soda and a synthetic bristle brush.
Have you checked alignment recently? All that burning smacks of somethin' out of whack.
bill


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

I use oven cleaner and a brass brush.

I can find no reliable evidence that the oven cleaner will damage the carbide, brazing material or steel. Maybe if you left it in for months but not a short time. I base this on my knowledge as a metallurgist and on comments by a guy who makes blades. However, there are a number of things that work well and use what you are comfortable with.

A brass brush also will not hurt the blade.

I am having to look harder for places to sharpen blades as it seems there are fewer of them.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Reputable sharpeners by mail order: (sending multiples maximizes shipping costs)

East coast:
- Forrest (NJ)
- Dynamic Saw (Buffalo, NY)
- Ridge Carbide (NJ)

Left coast:
- Scott Whiting (Glensdale, AZ)


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## Bricofleur (Aug 28, 2009)

Tom, my father-in-law was a baker and a 60 tooth blade would last a life time !!! LOL

Let's be serious now. Since a 60 tooth blade has 50% more teeth than a 40 tooth blade, mathematically it should last 50% longer, assuming you use both in the same manner.

By the way, I don't clean my saw blades as often I should do ! Damn laziness !

According to the number of comments, you have a lot of friends my friend.

Best,
Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

"According to the number of comments, you have a lot of friends my friend." 
or he might just be slow to understand. LOL


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## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

get you some KRUD KUTTER from lowes or where ever, works super quick, as well as an oven or even on a burn on your drum sander sand paper, not toxic . It will also clean spray guns used with water base finishes. Love the stuff.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Charles,

Thanks for adding to the information here. Lots of different advice, and a lot of similar advice. Since I often refer to you as my mentor and I am now using your suggestions and tips re: jigs and joinery. Even tried the plowing technique on the table saw, I would like to know what blades you use?

Thanks


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Bert,

I am ignorant of some things as I am self taught. Mostly building houses and construction projects. I am well read and I've followed a few pretty good people, it's not the same as the knowledge that comes from experience. Oh yeah I actually have been tested and it turns out I have a genuius IQ? LOL!

Had a girlfriend who said "you have a penchant for stating the obvious!" My reply was "some things are not obvious until they are brought up."

I will be using a lot of what is said here to improve my shop skills.

The advice I get here can be found on a search engine, but this gives insight.

Thanks for yours!


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

You are welcome.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Serge,

Thanks for pointing that out. LOL! What I have gained here is "go with a quality blade." Clean reqularly, especially with more use of the tool. Keep it sharp! Obvious but no in the middle of what I'm doing?

Lj's are great in their support and "constructive" criticism. As my wife says "some folks who are rude, disparaging, or self aggrandizing really need to get some quality in there lives."

I am fortunate to have so many positive responses that give insight, like yours.

Thanks!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

knotscott,

Thanks, I might need to use them.

I will be checking out your blade recommendations!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Redoak49,

It was a first time to use the oven cleaner, as I heard it works. The crud came off and I cleaned the blade right away. Thanks for your metallurgic information.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Bill,

It was a brass wire brush, but just that for starters. I've not kept track of how long the blade was in use, and in my days before I know what I know now I thought Harbor Frieght blades were "a great deal." As I said before I use to just replace the blades and keep going as time was money.

Now I'm thinking different.

Thanks


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## teejk02 (Apr 27, 2015)

I'll opine that I stick with the 40 tooth blades…have a quality 60 tooth blade hanging on the wall that has seen little use…I found it increased my control issues a lot.


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## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

Let's be serious now. Since a 60 tooth blade has 50% more teeth than a 40 tooth blade, mathematically it should last 50% longer, assuming you use both in the same manner.
Heck of a statement!!!!!!! Mathematical genius.
I bet if I put my 80 tooth CPMS blade on my TS that has a 24 rip blade, and started to rip wood, that 80 tooth would not last a hour. Let alone 3 times longer then my rip blade. Teeth design, set, gullet size are all different. Heat is what dulls a blade/bit other then just wear.
Sorry if I was a bit blunt last night, Doc.


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## upinflames (Jun 24, 2012)

I don't care what blade is used, it will last until it is worn out, too many variables to have a " longevity prediction".

VM & P Naphtha is about the best cleaner one could use and most shops have it on the shelf…...


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> Is the 87 dollar blade that good? LOL!
> 
> - DocSavage45


It's only 87 dollars once. After that, every time I sharpen it, it's like having a brand new Quality blade for only 16 bucks.


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## tomsteve (Jan 23, 2015)

the main thing that makes a quality blade is the grade of the carbide used. lower priced saw blades use a lower quality carbide, which the carbide grains are larger. higher quality blades use a higher quality carbide, which the carbide grains are smaller, which makes for a more durable saw tooth that will hold and edge longer.
the man that used to sharpen my blades 7 or so years ago said the higher quality carbide was much easier to sharpen,too. dont know if thats true or not, but he'd been sharpening blades of all kinds for years. i think he started years ago on spears.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

Buy Freud ( Home Depot or Amazon)or Irwin Maples blades and you will be satisfied every time.
My go to blade is a Irwin Marple (be careful to not to confuse with Irwin blades) 50 teeth combination blade, it does everything nicely and it is relatively inexpensive 
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-1807368-50-Tooth-Alternate/dp/B008OJJXZC


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> Reputable sharpeners by mail order: (sending multiples maximizes shipping costs)
> 
> East coast:
> - Forrest (NJ)
> ...


+100 for Scott Whiting, He's been doing my blades since 1999. I get my blades and shaper cutters from him also. 
All around good guy who will spend time with you on the phone if you have questions.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

AlaskaGuy,

Thanks for your input on Scott.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

tomsteve,

LOL! That's knowledge vs. information.

Thanks


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Conifur,

Thanks for your knowledge, it will hep in the future.


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

I guess I don't understand how one has over 7000 posts and has no knowledge of when a blade is dull. That's just too many posts to be that green. But I guess its like the many I've ran into over the years that say they are cabinet makers only to find they ran door parts all day in a shop and have never assembled the first cabinet.

Sorry but the question is very naive…


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## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

I dont think the ? was how do you know when a blade is dull, it was how many hours do you think it takes b4 a blade gets dull.
I have had good blades go dull in a few days cutting Brazilian Cherry flooring to length, Epe even faster.
I use a strong solution of baking soda and water with an over night soak then a brash brush to clean mine. Then no wax, it will just burn/melt off. Dry silicone spray lube. I found the top of a 5/6 gallon bucket works great as long as it does not have a built in spout like most paint buckets have.


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## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

7000 post, maybe he spends more time on other forums here then in the shop wood working. Rebuilding machinery? I bought all of mine except the CPMS and routers off of CL and spent 5 months almost derusting CI, new bearings, repainting and building my work bench and its lower cabinet/drawer assembly after that. I am retired and worked on it at least 6 hours a day usually 6 days a week.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Thanks Conifur,


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Jack,

Please read the thread? If you have questions about me please ask. I admit to my ignorance and ask for assistance.

Most of my posts are to support fellow woodworkers.

Many of them are to share how I screw things up. LOL! Maybe someone else who doesn't have a mentor can learn too?

It's around 3 posts a day?


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

I also have another business that is full time.


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## teejk02 (Apr 27, 2015)

well this is going well…another "cabin fever" thread now?


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

LOL!

Maybe you got a point there.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

error


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

error


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

The answer to your question is relative to what you are cutting.

In nice hardwoods, my blades stay clean and sharp for a good amount of time based on the volume of production.

When I am working with yellow pine and reclaimed woods, I have been known to clean the blades at least once a day if not 2x. I also have to send the blades out to my sharpening service once a week on those projects.

I also go for the fewest teeth possible. I would only use a 24 tooth blade whenever possible on the table saw. A good sharp blade, with fewer teeth generates the least amount of heat.

And when it comes to sharpening, I, personally, would never sharpen my own blades. If you have ever seen the precision equipment that the sharpening services use, you would realize that we can never get our blades sharpened as precisely as they do. I pay them a reasonable fee to give me factory sharp blades in return.

But that bit of advice is based on the type of work I do and the perfection that I expect out of my blades.

Some of my favorite blades range from 10-15 years old.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Todd,

doing a lot of pine right now. Previously it was milling lumber I cut with my chainsaw mill. Plus my blade is a cheapie as I've mentioned before.

Thanks


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## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

Doc, i heard alot about Foresters Blades and I am sure they match there reputation. but to rich for my blood, I have a Freud 24 tooth thin kirf rib line on my TS, Amason $60ish or a bit less, on my CPMS I had a full kirf 80 tooth Freud, now went to there 60 tooth negative hook CPMS thin kirf blade, about the same on Amazon but worth it. I am still learning too, and technology changes faster then I need it.
Doc, here is there main page have fun on blades for saws and explanations.
http://www.freudtools.com/


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Bill,

I am leaning toward the Freud as a good starting place and match for my wallet? LOL! I will check out the site to gain knowlegege about cutting heads, pitch and balance. Thanks.

Added you as a buddie so you can see my other stuff. LOL!


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## teejk02 (Apr 27, 2015)

> LOL!
> 
> Maybe you got a point there.
> 
> - DocSavage45


Dunno what it is about this time of year…people just seem to get "grouchy"...I imagine the spouse is hiding in the house and the dog is cowering in the corner somewhere so message boards are the "outlet" (not just this one either).


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

teejk02,

As this is a family based site for observation and education there are posting rules and social expectations here. I have backed out of arguments that others have gotten into about technique or style.

Bob Dylan said it a long time ago"You are right in your way and I am right in mine. It's a restless feeling I'm feeling and you can say it twice as good. I'm right in my way and you are right in yours, but we're one to many mornings and a thousand miles behind."

Thanks! (not just this time of year..LOL!)


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## teejk02 (Apr 27, 2015)

> teejk02,
> 
> As this is a family based site for observation and education there are posting rules and social expectations here. I have backed out of arguments that others have gotten into about technique or style.
> 
> ...


Sadly the anonymity of most internet sites let's people say things they would never say if their name was attached to it. Just the way it is I guess. I don't agree with a lot of things "experts" say here (like .001 run-out on a table saw or not being able to balance a nickel on their $500 bandsaw). I just ignore that stuff.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

And there is a lot of good info too?

Got to do some evening chores. Thanks for checking it out.


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## conifur (Apr 1, 2015)

Doc, you got horses? Evening chores? Just get a money shredder if you have horses!!!!!!!
BD, Highway 61 revisited!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Moms to Appleton, home, 102 miles, each 2 miles from the I. In the 98 750iL 87 minutes, Just like Transporter, but his was black, mine is Alpina White!!!!!!!!!! From start to finish the CD is just done!!!!!!!!!!!


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

For me it depends on the thickness of the lumber I'm cutting. I have noticed cutting 3/4'' or thinner boards, the blade lasts a long time. When I get to 1 1/2'' or 2'' thick boards, that seems to really cut back on its life. I usually use the Freud blades, but noticed this on anyone I use. Cutting 45% again is another wear factor.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Conifur,

I've got too many cats. LOL! Not horse feed and lodging but cat food, liter and attention time. I'm not a crazy cat guy.. close though.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

Dave,

Hardwood is different that the soft stuff. Dust and cutting. I'll be checking out blades at my Big box store to compare when I go to Mankato.

Thanks for your input.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Posting an update!*

*b2rtch*: Bought a diamond file at Home Depot when I went to Mankato and practiced on a HF blade. Touching up teeth appears to be easier that trying to get a clean edge when the blade has not been cared for? Checked out Freud blades while there but I ended up purchasing a 60 tooth Freud blade from Amazon.

*Conifur:* Found an 80 tooth 10 inch Freud Blade in my used blades pile, which I did not practice on. LOL!

*Todd*; Checked out saw sharpening in the area and found two places. I will investigate having my Freud blade sharpened by them.

Did some research on blades and found a 101 primer.

Tested my blades w/out load to see how they sound. Two new 80 tooth harbor Frieght blades dated 2004 screeched like a bad soprano at high end. Examined the Freud blade teeth with magnifier as well as the HF blades. Most significant was the weld of the carbide to the blade.

Apparently my craftsman belt driven saw operated at a lower rpm as the 80 tooth blades didn't make noise on that saw.

Thanks for everyone's input.

Hope this assists other folks in similar ignorant circumstances.

I will be touching up and cleaning saw blades from now on. (Instead of replacing a less expensive blade)


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## tomsteve (Jan 23, 2015)

doc, im gonna guess that iffen you were able to put the carbides from them 2 blades under a microsope youd also see a difference. i couldnt see hf having as high a grade carbide as freud.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

tomsteve,

You have me there! LOL! I found that Freud blades are made in Europe. Doesn't necessarily mean better. I examined my blades to learn what I could with my 5 x multiplier looking glass. C2 carbide is used on the HF blades. And we know Harbor freight is not applying Ansi expectations to the Chinese factories. I know that Grizzly is doing that( or it was LOL!).

I did see s slight difference in the pitch of the carbide tips when comparing to the Freud blade. And as I mentioned my basic assessment of the balance at high speed on my table saw on the unused 80 tooth blades from HF.

If I had a microscope I would have used that as well. :<)


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Update,*

I now own a Freud "Diablo" 60 tooth saw blade and I found two places that sharpen saw blades. I choose the more expensive guy. He is 30 miles away, but told me I could take the blades to the lumber/home sales store in town as they are also in his town and would bring the blade to him. He also has a machine for sharpening that handles the whole tooth.

The other place may or may not have done a good job. It is done by the son on weekends and it is by hand.

Interestingly my bandsaw blades, planer blades and table saw blades are having a problem at the same time.

Thanks for your knowledge!


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