# 2013 Hand Plane Swap



## donwilwol

In light of the success of the recent marking gauge swap, we've decided to swap some shop made hand planes.

Also join the Swap the knowledge.

*EDIT FOR THE RESULTS* ........The planes!!
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*Join the next swap. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/54712
*

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*Dates*
There will not be a last day to enter, as long as you have time to build the plane by the following deadlines.
Time frame - *shipment by Oct 15th.*
Since I'm trying to match up plane types, and I want to ensure everybody who gets a plane sends a plane we'll do this a little different than the last.

As soon as you've got you're plane completed send me a photo @ *[email protected]* and tell me what it is and what you would like. At that time I'll match you with the next available slot. If you don't care what you get, then that will help me out. *PLEASE add your address in the same email as the picture. *

*Oct 10th for the deadline to get me a picture* of the completed plane.
Send a picture as soon as its complete.

Obviously the longer you wait, the less chance you'll get a requested plane.

Even if you've never made a plane before, PLEASE join in. There are lots of folks here to help out.

Most of all, have some fun.

we will limit the plane making to basically wood. The body has to be wood, and it has to be a wood suitable for a hand plane. No pine or poplar or cedar, etc. Extensions like bars, sole mortises, wedges and inlays can be alternative materials if desired.

Please send a PM, even if you post it here.

Same rules as previous swaps
-no posting pictures before your recipient has received the plane.

*If you are outside the US, please note that in your PM to me, and tell me were your located*

*Rhett has made the following offer* (Good for 1 new iron only)
If you order a "half-ashed" blade from my site and put "plane swap" in the comments of your order, I will send the blade with the primary bevel already ground and a sandblasted finish. All you would then need do is a quick final honing.

Be Good
Rhett


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## Ripthorn

Sounds like fun, I'm definitely in. I guess I will have to make my first wood bodied plane now…


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## LakeLover

I have made a couple shoulder planes. Birch bodies and a salvaged/modified blade. They work quite well.

In the stash is some nice fiqured Maple.

I am in if some one would like a shoulder plane.


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## Timbo

I'm in too.


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## terryR

Hey, Brian, can you mill dense woods with your CNC? Just curious…no way I can afford one. Unless I can grab one at the same price you did. 

Seems like a computer controlled router would be sweet for inlay, or any finely detailed work. I sure tried on the last swap to form a nice dado using hand tools, but couldn't pull it off using just a marking knife and router plane. Shoulda practiced more…


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## grfrazee

I should be able to make something by Oct. 15. Count me in.


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## jordanp

I have a small stash of Red Oak and Granadillo Might be able to do some glue ups and and see what I can come up with..

Has anyone ever tried making a wooden body plane using the blade assembly from a Stanley plane (Chip breaker/Iron etc) Mounted with a screw?

I was thinking if you used some extremely hard wood like Ebony or Granadillo and Tapped it about 2" in the blade assembly would be pretty stout. Thoughts?


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## donwilwol

I've got a smoother posted in my projects that uses a vintage iron and chip breaker. The iron was cut down like a "teal" krenov. It works really well.

edit….and I didn't finish reading . Its not mounted with a screw but I plan to try that. Its one of Baileys first patented designs.


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## DaddyZ

Count me in, I have never made a plane before …....

Let me know when & where …...


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## Mosquito

I'm still in on the forum as well  Was the PM only for what type? Or was it for participation as well?


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## donwilwol

If it's something I need to track, like participation and type pm or email me so I don't. Miss it.


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## Tugboater78

I wanna do this, but not sure if I can hit the deadline, lots of stuff on my plate..when is the latest a person can sign up?


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## jordanp

Wow Don that is pretty cool.. Would it be ok to get creative with the hardware (Chip breaker/frog/iron as long as the body is made from wood?.


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## Ripthorn

Terry, I can do wood, metal, plastic, etc. Now that you have pointed that out, this could get fun. However, I wonder if anyone would feel slighted by having something not made completely by hand (though I guess we do use other machines like table saws and such anyway).


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## jordanp

Has anyone tried making a low-angle Block plane from wood? I haven't seen one yet.


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## mds2

I'm in! Rick M. and I actually did a plane swap while the marking gauge swap was going on. I love making planes.


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## rfusca

Since this will be new for so many of us - do any of the veteran plane makers have any sage advice or resources to recommend?


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## donwilwol

I haven't tried the low angle but have read because the wood is so thin under the bed it doesn't stand up. I've got a few older ones in box lots that reflect this.


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## mochoa

You can get the same low angle effect on a wood plane by making a bevel down plane with 37 degree bedding.


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## bandit571

Would one of these count?









Need to make a few new ones, anyway..


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## Hammerthumb

I'm in. Do we send a PM to Don?


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## donwilwol

And my opinion is as long as the body is wood, it's good. I take that as the consensus.


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## jordanp

*Don W* Yea I was wondering about the wood being too thing at the edge then I had an idea of gluing/screws etc a 1/8" piece of aluminum between the wooden angle and the blade to reinforce it..

I dunno, my mind is going a thousand different directions with the thought of this project.

You guys may have created a monster here..


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## donwilwol

Look up how Derick Cowen (hope the spelling is right) adds a brass inlay around the mouth of his fine planes. I think that would do it for the low angle.

He here on lj and had a must see web site.


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## woodworker59

I may live to regret this, but add me to the list.. Its funny, I was just working on a couple planes this week. 
Will shoot a PM to ya Don.W to make sure its all legit… here we go again… Yee haw.. Papa


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## Quaternion

Ok, I'm in. This is going to be an adventure…


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## IrishWoodworker

Off to the shop I go!!!! I missed out on the last two tool swaps. This will be fun!


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## Wally331

I'm in again, Funny that this swap is happening just as I'm halfway through my infill build.


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## shampeon

I'm in. Just to clarify, Don, do you also want us to PM you?


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## donwilwol

I got you Ian.

At some point, when you've decided what you'll make, send me a PM or email. *Please, everyone* let me know what you'll be making.

If I don't get a request for what you'd like to receive, I'll assume you don't care.


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## donwilwol

*CFrye* you wrote, "Thick iron without a chipbreaker, so no need to relieve the ramp to accommodate a screw head." 
Um…what did Rhett say? 
Very intimidated here but willing to give it a go if translations are provided…(and LOTS of help!) 

When you use a chip breaker, its bolted to the iron. When you bed the iron you need to dado out a groove for the bolt head. When you use a thick iron without a chip breaker, .... no bolt…. so no groove needed.


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## shampeon

Thanks, Don. FWIW, I'd like a high-angle smoother, but won't throw a hissy fit about it.


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## BigRedKnothead

My motivational rant to get everyone going:

"I don't divide the world into the weak and the strong, or the successes and the failures… I divide the world into learners and nonlearners." -Benjamin Barber

Never made a plane before. Never used a wood plane before. Let's do dis. Bring it on.


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## DonBroussard

@DonW-Are the categories smoother, jack or jointer, or are they more specific than that?

@BRK-I am motivated by the Barber quote. I've never made a wooden body hand plane before either, but I ain't skeered. Ask me again around October 1 if I am still not skeered though. I expect that this swap will teach me more humility than the marking gauge swap.


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## Timbo

Question…

What is the consensus on grain (end grain) direction? oriented top/bottom or side to side? Does it matter?

another site for inspiration: Bill Carter planes


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## Mosquito

Most are end grain on the front and back (heel and toe), aren't they?


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## mds2

Tim, when I make planes the end grain is always at the front and back.


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## CL810

The Barber quote is definitely sig line worthy.


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## Burgels

Man, I tempted but I'm feeling very intimidated by the prospect…


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## donwilwol

jump in Burgels. we'll start a support group if need be


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## Timbo

Maybe I didn't the question correctly. When looking at the end grain on the heel or toe of the plane, should the grain direction be oriented top/bottom or side to side? I have done some reading on this today and it seems the outside of the tree should be the sole so side to side grain or flat sawn?


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## mochoa

generally side to side I believe with the heart side of he tree facing down. This also looks cool because it exposes quartersawn wood on the sides.


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## donwilwol

I'm not a wood plane making expert, but I understand it to be just as Maur explained it.


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## LukieB

Never made a plane before. Never used a wood plane before. Let's do dis. Bring it on.

I like your thinking Red, motivational rant is working…..

I'm in


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## DonBroussard

@DonW-How many participants do we have so far? Looks like we already have over 20. Looking good! BTW, I don't have a preference on what I make or what I need. Just put me in the remedial group.


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## CFrye

DonW what's a 'chipbreaker'? Is there a glossary of plane terms somewhere? With pictures? I'm a visual learner.

Burgels I'm in. I promise I'll probably ask any question you can think of. If I miss one (out of sheer ignorance, I assure you) you can ask it. Sign me up for the support group as well!

Mauricio I understood what you said. Yay!

Red I may have to print that quote and hang it in the shop, and the office, and the …


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## donwilwol

41 so far.

*If your name is not on the list in the post, I didn't get it*

*If you are outside the US, please note that in your PM to me, and tell me were your located*


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## DaddyZ

Missed my name !!!


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## ChuckC

I'm in this one too. PM sent.

I'm wondering about the plane type too. Are we picking from a list?


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## CFrye

If I understood the marker swap, you knew who you were making for and could therefore personalize it, to an extent? I'm remembering a guitar shaped marker…


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## rhett

If at all possible the orientation of the grain should be so the new growth rings face the sole, meaning if you look at the end grain, it would look like a smile, not a frown.

This is what I have been told by some other wooden plane makers. Of course, I was also told it didn't really matter and that grain direction is more important that orientation. The grain should run the direction the plane moves. Think of petting your dog, one way is smooth the other is not.

Also, I should be set up to take payments other than paypal by end of week. Since a few of you guys emailed me saying you wanted blades, but did not have a paypal account. I could set up to sell some ash blanks too, should there be a demand.

Be Good
Rhett


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## ChuckC

@Cfrye - Not exactly. The builder of the sweet guitar gauge happened to go through the recipients projects to see what he was into. Don posted instructions above for this swap:

At some point, when you've decided what you'll make, send me a PM or email. Please, everyone let me know what you'll be making.

If I don't get a request for what you'd like to receive, I'll assume you don't care.


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## donwilwol

@Cfrye and everyone. Lets assume everyone has until Aug 12th to decide to get in, and send me what you would like to make and receive. I know a lot of you (and me) will be flexible on what to make, so I may be making some request. Figure about a week after that I should have your recipients ready.

Sound feasible?


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## TimC

Are all hardwoods acceptable for using on planes?


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## GregInMaryland

For all the novices out there, here are some resources I've collected over the years or websites that are particularly useful:


Derek Cohen - http://www.inthewoodshop.com/
Popular Mechanics - http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/woodworking/1273456
David Finck, Making and Mastering Wood Planes - http://www.amazon.com/Making-Mastering-Planes-David-Finck/dp/061527353X
Diego de Assis - http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dassis/art/makingplane/makinplanes1.asp
Norse Woodsmith - http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/content/handled-wooden-bench-plane
John M. Whelan, Making Traditional Wooden Planes - http://www.astragalpress.com/makingtraditionalwooden_planes.htm
Jim Kingshott, Making & Modifying Woodworking Tools - "http://www.amazon.com/Making-Modifying-Woodworking-Tools-Kingshott/dp/0946819327
Charles Hayward, How to Make Woodwork Tools - http://toolemera.com/bkpdf/haywardhowtobk.pdf
Shopnotes Issues 79, 88, and 121 issues
Wood Magazine April/May 2005, September 2011, and August 2000 Issues
American Woodworker May/June 1992 Issue
Fine Woodworking November/December 1985 and March/April 1990 Issues
The Woodworker April 2007, May 2007, June 2007, July 2007, August 2007, September 2007, October 2007, Autumn Special 2007 and November 2007 Issues
*Furniture & Cabninetmaking Issue 188, January 2012; Issue 189, February 2012; Issue 190, and March 2012;

Some of the above are freely available on line and others, like the magazines and books need to be purchased.

Please note that some of the above materials covers infill planes made of steel and brass and go beyond the current tool swap. However, if someone would like to make an infill miter plane similar to the Norris A11, I would be more than willing to swap my poor attempt at a hand plane with you 

Good luck and have fun!

Greg


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## terryR

Goodness gracious…I'm in over my head this time!


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## donwilwol

Its easy, even a caveman can do it. Here is proof, http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/24659


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## Iguana

*Slice of Wood* - No, not all hardwoods are suitable. Balsa would be a great example of what not to use 

You want to use hardwoods that are truly hard, and seasonally stable. The seasonal stability is so that the plane doesn't change shape with the seasons and need constant adjusting.

The hardness come in because the sides (cheeks) of the plane are relatively thin and take a lot of stress from both the wedge and from planing pressure. The sole also needs to be fairly hard to avoid premature wear. Personally, I avoid anything lower than about 1000 on the Janka hardness scale, although I make an exception for cherry and add a sole from a much harder wood.

(And no, I do not have any kind of objective reason for picking 1000 as the hardness threshold. It just seems about right in my experience.)


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## Iguana

*jordanp *- I did make a low-angle block plane. 12° bed. I described it in the Planes You Have Made thread. Works reasonably well, but a bit of metal reinforcement behind the blade isn't a bad idea. Aluminum - no. Brass, bronze or steel - yes.


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## 489tad

Yes sir I'm in.


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## donwilwol

got ya Dan


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## mgipson

I have been thinking about making a plane for a while and even bought a new blade and chip breaker last week that I intend to cut down to use in it. I think I will join in the swap in spirit only for support during the build as I live in Thailand and the shipping costs to and from the US are quite high.


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## Tugboater78

F it, I'm in, hope i can complete in time and make something nice. I'm skeered!


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## ksSlim

T boat, if you can find time to do it while afloat part of the time, I'm in ! 
I'm thinkin a wide smoother or a short jack.

What are you doin?


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## Tugboater78

A smoother I believe, gonna try anyway


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## CFrye

*GregInMaryland* Thanks for all the informative links and reference materials! Don W Looking forward to this!
Ignorance is bliss! I'll be scared later, when I learn what I've gotten myself in for.


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## mochoa

Nice reference sheet Greg!


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## RaggedKerf

Man o man I want to join this one so bad…always wanted to make a plane. But I have a TON of stuff on my plate at the moment (just in the shop…there's plenty of other stuff in the real world besides my shop projects lol). I will be pushing hard to get things wrapped up by the deadline to sign up to make sure I can participate. If I can't, I'll be watching this thread every day…

If the marking gauge swap was any indication, this is going to be one wild ride.


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## carguy460

Well, it looks like Don threw my name in the hat, so I guess I'll be learning a new skill!

I'm thinking SurForm blade screwed to a hunk of wood…thats about my current skill level!


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## waho6o9

I used a SurForm on some Zebrawood for grins and giggles and the
results were awesome.

You might surprise yourself with a good idea there Jason. I wouldn't discount
it too quickly.


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## DonBroussard

Got 2 Nice Ash irons on the way! Now I just need to figure out what to make so I can tell DonW . . .

So many options, like smoother, jack or jointer, bed angle, bevel up or down, Krenov style or sold block chiseling, totes and knobs or not, SurForm blade screwed to a hunk of wood. Got some thinking to do before the design takes form. Clock's ticking . . .


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## carguy460

Man, I'd hate to be the guy that opens up my package (insert childish joke here) to find my shop-built surform! I would at least use fancy brass screws though…

I'm getting excited…when can I know who my recipient is going to be?


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## BigRedKnothead

I hear ya Jason. I have a nicely aged pine 2×4 I wanted to use…but I guess that's out. Not high enough on the Janka scale….lol.

I better look back at old swaps for more rules. Understand no pics til reveal. Are we supposed to talk about what plane we're making. What we're using? Who our recipient is?


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## donwilwol

from previous swaps, so correct me were I'm wrong but

definitely not Who our recipient is? You shouldn't know who's sending your plane until you open it.
What we're using is ok.
what plane we're making? My vote would be its ok. Just don't show pictures of it I guess.

you won't know who your reciepient is for a while.


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## carguy460

I guess I worded my question wrong…I meant to say "who I'll be sending my plane to", now "who is sending me a plane"...though I would be pretty pumped if I knew it was going to be, say, a DW original…

This will likely be only my third project to complete…yikes, this is scary for a newbie…


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## BTimmons

Oh man, does this sound exciting! I need to scrounge around my garage to see what I have laying around. I just might have enough wood and perhaps a spare iron that could be right for the cause.

Not ready to commit just yet, but I'm definitely interested. Never made a plane before, so this will definitely push the learning curve.


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## jordanp

Hey *DonB* you forgot about Shoulder Planes, 90 Degree Scraper Planes, Skew Planes, Coffin Planes and Block Planes.

Sorry if I confused your decision even more

Could you guys post links to where you are getting your blades?

I have several places I could get them, but I would like to see where you Pro's like to purchase your blades and maybe "why"


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## Mosquito

I bought a Brese plane iron for one that I'm [still] working on (non-swap related), and it's pretty nice. It's thick, and good quality. I bought it because I liked the thickness and the shape. That's about it. Price was fair, and the grind on the bevel was fantastic.

I just bought one off eBay for the swap. It'll require a little work to be something I'd send off, but I'm ok with that. Reason being because it's cheaper. I spent $70 on the iron I bought from Ron Brese, and didn't really want to spend that much for the swap iron… I'm not sure If I'll buy another Brese iron if/when I make another plane for myself or not though. They are nice, but also rather expensive.


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## rfusca

@Mosquito - The Nice Ash blades are cheaper and seem pretty thick.


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## DonBroussard

@jordanp-You're right about those other options. Decisions, decisions, decisions!

Re: irons. I ordered two irons from Nice Ash (1-1/2" wide and 2" wide), one for the swap and one for me. They are 1/4" thick and therefore, no cap iron is needed, and therefore #2, no relief needs to be carved/routed in the bed angle.


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## chrisstef

Im going with a 4" wide iron. Gonna be a double wide baby!

I better get to doin some research or else im gonna have to recycle a plane.


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## Mosquito

From my understanding, the nice ash plane irons are only cheaper if you finish it up yourself. From the store, the "half ash" irons are not ground, or polished, and when they are, they're $50? Store appears to be broken/down at the moment though

Either way it doesn't matter, I already bought an iron.


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## BTimmons

Stef, if it was anyone else, I'd ask if you're nuts. But in your case I don't have to.


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## Airframer

*Mos* - in regaurds to the half ash blades Rhett has in his shop… here is the hook up he has offered for the swap..

From DonW's blog..

Alright guys and gals, you are going to need iron for those planes. Don asked if maybe I could do something for the build, my reply was most definately.

The irons I sell are high carbon O1 tool steel, 1/4" thick and 3.5" long. They are precision heat treated to Rc60-62. Available widths are 1 1/2" and 2". Thick iron without a chipbreaker, so no need to relieve the ramp to accommodate a screw head.

If you order a "half-ashed" blade from my site and put "plane swap" in the comments of your order, I will send the blade with the primary bevel already ground and a sandblasted finish. All you would then need do is a quick final honing.

Be Good
Rhett

that said I am not sure why the store is down but I am sure he is working on the issue.


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## GregInMaryland

I purchased three plane blades from Nice Ash Planes late yesterday and I got the notice that they have already shipped. Now if only the USPS could only get here quicker ….

Here are URLs for some blades you can purchase:


http://www.niceashplanes.com/
http://www.hocktools.com/
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/Index.aspx
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/hand-plane-blades.aspx
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/category/12936/plane-blades.aspx
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TP
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?cat=548 and http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1231 and http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1490

I am sure that there are others out there as well that I am not remembering.

Greg


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## BTimmons

The Nice Ash blades look extremely nice, but I unfortunately I don't have $50 to spare. Not unless I want the wife to make me sleep on the front porch. And the $20 option without the grinding done - the price isn't bad but my grinding equipment / skills aren't up to snuff.

If I throw my hat in the ring, it's gonna be with a recycled blade, I think.


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## rhett

Anyone who didn't see Don's blog, might have missed my offering for the swap. I am sending out the half-ashed blades to LJs, participating in the swap, with the primary bevel ground and a sandblasted finish. Final sharpening and honing would be up to you. Just put plane swap in the comment.

The site should be up and going. If it was down, it was while I was setting up the merchant account to take payments other than paypal.

Thanks to everyone who has purchased from me so far.

Be Good
Rhett


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## Airframer

Again.. you can order the $20 option and recieve the $50 product by adding "Plane Swap" in the comments block when ordering. This is a special offer by him for the swappers..

*If you order a "half-ashed" blade from my site and put "plane swap" in the comments of your order, I will send the blade with the primary bevel already ground and a sandblasted finish. All you would then need do is a quick final honing.

Be Good
Rhett*

It's a hell of a deal on what looks to be a hell of a blade.


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## donwilwol

I've added Rhett's notes to the OP.


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## chrisstef

BT - you know it brother. Ive got my iron all picked out now I just gotta figure out how to cut it in half and weld it together. This plane will require a 3 point stance behind it to get 'er moving but she'll plane a door in just 4 passes!


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## Ripthorn

you know, stef, I have actually thought of making a plane like that for match planing 8/4 stock, which would be handy with electric guitar body blanks. However, for this swap, I'm thinking smaller.


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## chrisstef

You got the tech to do it Rip. Im just goofin around. I dunno how in hell I would sharpen anything that wide. Freehanding hell is all I can imagine.


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## mochoa

$20 for the Half Ash iron, ground and sand blasted is a great deal. I got to test one of the planes and I can tell you the steel is excellent, takes and holds a great edge.


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## Mosquito

Didn't catch that deal on the half ash blades. That's not a bad deal then. But I don't think 3.5" is long enough for what I want to do :-/ Might still pick one up, and make a pair of planes for the swap… we'll see, I guess

Thanks, Rhett, for the generous support of the swap


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## Mosquito

'Stef, so you're making one like this?
http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?p=436


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## chrisstef

Jeez Mos, now I gotta make another one of those. I thought one would have satisfied the masses. Whatta ya think about my Steven Seagal pony tail in that vid? Sweet right?


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## fatandy2003

I'm in. Not sure what I need or what I will make, but I will PM DonW when I know both… Thanks for setting this one up!


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## carguy460

So is there a chance that I could use an old metal plane iron in a woodie? like a little block plane iron? Would I need a chipbreaker even though it would just be a little guy, or would the wedge stiffen the iron enough?

I want to get started on a practice plane like RIGHT NOW, but I don't have any irons other than from my old Stanleys…


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## chrisstef

Jason, youd need one that's a bit thicker than your standard bench plane iron or else it will wanna chatter on you without a chip breaker. God hunting for old wood bodied planes at tag sales and such, theyre a dime a dozen around here. If you cant get your hands on one let me know and ill hook ya up.


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## mochoa

Try it out and see what happens. I bet it will work fine. Make it with an extra thick wedge so that you can add a chip breaker later if you need it and just make a thinner wedge.


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## mds2

Carguy, the iron you have will work fine. I've made about a dozen planes and have never used a chip breaker. The wedge holds the iron VERY firmly.


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## donwilwol

I'll echo Stef's offer. I used a cut down bench iron on this one.

No real need to cut it down if you don't want.


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## carguy460

Don - I don't know why I asked that question, since I read your post about your smoother earlier today. I guess I'm a little out of it…

I think I'm going to try it…I'll probably use a thicker dude for the swap, but for a little practice block plane I'll give it a shot…You know, I was supposed to be building a workbench…my ADD is kicking in…


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## Sanding2day

First time making a plane and first swap at LJs… So excited


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## chrisstef

I also believe, that barring a tragic event, anyone who flakes out on the swap must change their screen name and profile pic as punishment.

New screen name: IsuckIflaked
New profile pic:


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## carguy460

Stef, are you hinting that I can't take the pressure of my first plane build AND my first bench build? Ha ha! (you are probably right!) If it looks like I won't git-r-done, I'll cheat!

Seriously though, I think I can do this! (though I didn't think I could this morning…weird!)


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## chrisstef

No not all all buddy. Im sayin you and I are in the same boat brother. First bench build, first handplane build, little kids at home. And im learning how to sharpen hand saws too! Im dizzy.

As ive always said: ya aint cheatin, ya aint tryin.


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## DaddyZ

So how far does it have to fly ??

will a glider work ??


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## mochoa

If I was making a smoother with no chip breaker I would increase the bedding angle 55 degrees.


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## carguy460

Hey Maur - why 55 degrees? I ask simply out of ignorance…


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## donwilwol

*Jason* The chip breaker breaks the shaving by folding it frontward. As the degree of bedding goes up, the need for a chip breaker to fold the chip forward become less prominent because the angle of the iron is already breaking it.

I have a couple infills I've made at 50 degree's that work just fine as well.

A 55 degree bed does a better job on tough grain, so that's another reason its a good idea.

There are many vintage wood bodies with 45 degree beds that worked, and a lot of the old chip breakers were basically flat pieces of steel, as are the "new and improved" versions from most of the iron manufactures. Their sole purpose was to stiffen the iron.

I personally don't believe it matters. (but I am looking forward to being proven wrong)


----------



## Ripthorn

Well, boys and girls, the game is on. Started mine (or at least one of mine) today. I had a couple of really wacky ideas, but decided to go a little more traditional, but still has a little twist to it. So I say unto you, let's get it on! (in a totally hand plane sort of way)


----------



## lateralus819

Did not know that about the chip breaker Don, thanks for that.


----------



## BTimmons

Ah, screw it. Count me in!

For those that might have made both before, would you recommend a jack or a smoother for a first plane attempt? My blade and chipbreaker set that I can use for this is too big for a block plane.


----------



## mochoa

Jason, yeah, what Don said. I believe in the high angle for difficult grain. The chip breaker can mimic the higher angle when set very close to the edge. However there are experts who dont think it matters and its just to stiffens the blade so… You'll have to experiment and come up your own opinion.


----------



## 489tad

Don are we allowed the teaser photo and the rare which almost never happens joke photo?


----------



## Mosquito

Brian, I would say a Jack would probably be "easier" since the tolerance for the mouth having to be really tight would be lower. But that said, I've only made 75% of a jointer lol


----------



## BTimmons

Fair point about mouth tolerance, Mos. Better give myself some wiggle room on the first go-around. A jack it is!


----------



## rhett

Presently, all my planes are at 45 degrees, smoother included. I am working on making a new jig to make a smoother with a higher bed angle.

I am starting to develop the mindset, that smoothers are the achilles heal of wooden planes.

A scrub plane or heavy cambered jack, would be an excellent woodie for a beginner to make, simply because the mouth opening can be huge and alot of issues with flatness/tolerence are mute. The opposite end of the spectrum from a smoother, but an invaluable plane for a hand tooler. Grinding the radius on the iron would be the trick on that one.


----------



## jmartel

Rhett,

Would you be able to do the radius for a scrub plane? Not for free, of course. I could use a scrub plane, and was considering making one apart from the swap for myself. I don't have a grinder or anything at the moment.


----------



## PaBull

You can count me in, but the standards seem to be pretty high here. Do all of you buy fancy blades for your wooden planes, or is there room for recycling?

PaBull


----------



## wormil

I'm in. Are spokeshaves included or no?


----------



## PaBull

A spokeshave is a plane in my book (garage-shop).


----------



## terryR

I'm hoping to smith my blade…bought the O1 tonight, 3/16" thick, so no 'breaker. Searching for fire bricks and a few goodies now…


----------



## bobasaurus

Please count me in. Never made one before, but always wanted to. I have some nice A2 tool steel that I could make the blade out of, too.


----------



## Iguana

*Rhett*,

I'm curious to know why you think smoothers are Achilles heel of wooden planes? IME, blade adjustment can be a bit finicky when trying to get the thinnest shavings, but I haven't noticed anything else in construction or use that would make me think along those lines. Can you elaborate?


----------



## rhett

Don't get me wrong, I love wooden smoothers, and prefer wooden planes. But, in the long run, a wooden smoother will loose its necessary tight mouth tolerance, due to fettling. It also requires more fettling, since fairly flat soles are needed for maximum performance. Lots of fettling means lots of sole wear. Sooner than later, It will need to be resoled, to once again achieve maximum performance. Mileage will vary ofcourse, depending on how often it is used.

This, in my mind, makes it the weak link of the wooden planes. Nothing to do with performance and everything to do with being persnickity.

Be Good
Rhett


----------



## donwilwol

*PaBull* recycled irons are certainly acceptable.

*Thanks* to all the guys pointing out the duplicates.

*And* don't forget to let me know what *type* you'll be making.


----------



## 489tad

terryR I take my hat off to you making your own blade. 0-1 hardens at 1200 to 1400 degrees give or take and tempered at 400. I found some information at www.threeplanes.net "A woodworkers guide to tool steel and heat treating. I have some experience with heat treating 0-1 if I can help.


----------



## terryR

Thanks in advance, Dan! I know enough about heat treating to know I need to ask LOTS of questions.


----------



## zwwizard

You can count me in. Either metal or wood. Any size.


----------



## waho6o9

Bosch grinder, model 1873 8, had a run for it's money hollow grinding an
A2 tool steel blank 3.5 long x 2.25 wide x 3.5 long.

The shiny edge was done with water stones and is sharp.


----------



## chrisstef

Now that's a chunk of iron Wahoo. Whoa.


----------



## Ripthorn

Wahoo, is the blank annealed or hardened? Did you make sure to keep it cool? That is always my biggest issue, because I get excited to get it ground down and sometimes forget to quench often.


----------



## mikewhite

I was sorry to miss the Marking Guage Swap so I am looking forward to this. I have to admit that I'm starting to feel a little overwhelmed, mostly by all the options available. I have seen several examples of what I think of as "Krenov-style" planes (cut the bed angle with a saw then glue the sides on, wedge under a dowel, no tote, etc). I have also seen (and in fact own) simple side-escapement rabbet planes that I might be able to do; I'm sure they are more difficult than they look. I also saw an example of a jack plane that looked interesting.

Any suggestions on what would be a challenging but do-able plane for a first timer like me? Not panicking. Yet.


----------



## shampeon

It's a ton easier to grind the primary bevel (and hollow grind it too, if that's your thing) before hardening.

Do most of the shaping of the blade before you heat treat it.


----------



## mochoa

I need to get me an angle grinder. Nice piece of steel Waho.

Have you guys heard about this new book on making Woodworking Tools. I got to thumb throught it and there are a lot of really inovative ideaas in it. Here is a preview of the box thats free online. 
http://shakerovalbox.com/finished/ToolBook.pdf

You'll see on the first page of that link he came up witha pretty interesting blade adjustment mechanism.

The book even shows you how to bend the steel to make your own Scorp. Some good stuff, I'm just to cheap to buy it right now.


----------



## donwilwol

the krenov style plane is probably the best first time plane. Not really because its easier, but because there are hundreds of blogs and videos on how to make one.

Its 5 or 6 pieces of wood (depending on what you use for a bar)
-front body with an angle
-the back body with a bed angle
-two sides
-a wedge
-a cross bar.

accidently make the mouth to wide, convert it to a jack.
make the mouth to narrow, file it wider.
cross bar can be inset like on a Nice Ash or run straight through. I run mine straight through, its easier, but should be wood if you do that.
The other advantage to running the bar straight through is you can do it last, so its easier to see exactly where it needs to be. 
remember you need a little extra room for the iron side to side. 1/8" to 3/16" is good.


----------



## donwilwol

biggest mistake is not leaving room for shavings to escape. I've even seen this mistake on production made planes.


----------



## ShaneA

You mean this thing has to be functional? WTF??? I was hoping to make a display type model. I may have to reconsider…


----------



## widdle

For instance a jack plane..Would a solid one piece design be highly regarded ? as to a 5 piece design ? or a laminated solid body design be structuraly desired ? What's the benchmark ?


----------



## mikewhite

Thanks Don! I feel better already!


----------



## donwilwol

^widdle, I think the answer to most of your questions would be a personal opinion. A vintage wood bodied plane is one piece, and is harder to build. Is it better? Not from a functional standpoint I don't believe. Which is more desirable would be a difference of opinion. Some like the looks of contrasting wood laminations. Others like the solid wood look. They can both be completely functional.


----------



## CFrye

Which, of the numerous (translate information overload) links/books already posted, is closest to "Wood Plane Building for Dummies"? My head is spinning!


----------



## BTimmons

Widdle,

I'm guessing that there isn't a structural advantage to solid body versus laminated style construction. I think the laminated wood planes became in vogue once cheaper power tools became available.


----------



## donwilwol

I have David Finck, Making and Mastering Wood Planes - http://www.amazon.com/Making-Mastering-Planes-David-Finck/dp/061527353X
And highly recommend it.


----------



## CFrye

OK Thanks Don, you said that before. I'll start there.


----------



## widdle

Thanks Don..
Curious to what others consider to be a well built wood plane..


----------



## rhett

The best wooden planes being made today, are coming out of Larry Williams and Don McConells shop.

http://www.planemaker.com/


----------



## 489tad

Cracked me up ShaneA! This is gonna be fun.


----------



## donwilwol

Than I can match you 2 up.


----------



## GregInMaryland

Man am I excited to start this build. I have my best blade and chipbreaker all ready:










and a choice piece of wood chosen:










There is going to be one lucky person in October!

Greg


----------



## DanKrager

LOL, Greg!
Shane, you could mark your contribution "for bedroom display only". 
DanK


----------



## jordanp

Haha love it Greg… Awesome..

Hey DonV (489Tad) have you made a wooden plane before?

By the Way we have too many Don's we may have to start number coding you guys Don1, Don2, Don3, Don4, etc etc


----------



## widdle

Rhett Good info coming from a plane maker..Ill chek'em


----------



## waho6o9

Thanks Stef and Mauricio!

@Ripthorn. I purchased the A2 off of Ebay and I'm not sure if it's
annealed or not, but I made sure to keep it cool as it was ground.
I kinda just went for it and didn't see it turn any colors like blue etc.

It's wicked strong metal though.


----------



## LukieB

Can I put in a request to be the recipient of Greg in Maryland's plane, LOL


----------



## 489tad

@jordanP I can't speak for the Don's if they should be numbered or not. Us Dan' s we tend to be memorable with out the numbers. No worries.
I did make a wooden plane beer bottle opener.


----------



## jordanp

Ahh thats right…
DanV, DonB, DonW

I get confused..

Yea that is a sweet bottle opener..


----------



## tworavens

Well, I guess there's no time like the present. Count me in! I figure if I'm going to go to the trouble of restoring a bunch of my grandfather's old hand tools, why not actually use them and make something neat with them!

And it'll force me to actually learn to use them right. Besides, I have all this nice turning stock sitting around collecting dust by my lathe. There's gotta be a jack or fore plane in there somewhere…

-Josh


----------



## CFrye

Oh man I don't know where I can get quality parts like Greg! Care to share your source?


----------



## LakeLover

Rhett I am considering ordering an iron. How do you ship them to Canuckistan ?

Or if a fellow Canuck is ordering can we split shipping ?

Thanks for you kind offer.


----------



## bondogaposis

Are we using Elfster for this one?


----------



## donwilwol

No Elfster.


----------



## chrisstef

That to say that your shop elves wont be writing the spread sheet Don. I thought those guys could do everything?


----------



## terryR

Goodness gracious, these tool swaps are getting expensive!

Last time, I had to buy an alphabet stamp set, plus 145 pieces of assorted brass, and more 5 min epoxy, and a new drill bit. For this swap, I've already bought 10 fire bricks, 3 sizes of O1 steel, more mapp gas, a longer set of needle nose pliers (need tongs), and I haven't even started a prototype!

Of course, there's a fine line between being a woodworker and a tool collector anyway!


----------



## ShaneA

a very fine line Terry.


----------



## mochoa

Terry, sounds like you are using the swaps as a pretext for buying some stuff you want. ;-)

Someone mentioned recycling irons earlier. I personally don't have any problem with it. If I had a nice spare iron to use I would.


----------



## donwilwol

That to say that your shop elves wont be writing the spread sheet Don. I thought those guys could do everything?

I'm checking the contract now Stef !


----------



## donwilwol

Terry, I think I have an extra iron that looks just like Greg's….....be glad to mail it.


----------



## terryR

Don, could ya cut it in half to save on shipping?


----------



## donwilwol

I can probably just break it in half, its rusted pretty good.


----------



## terryR

Mauricio discovered my secret…BUSTED! 

But, really, I've wanted to learn more about heat treating steel for years. So, will use my recipiant for practice!

Plus, I can stamp anything I want into the iron… LOL


----------



## terryR

…can probably just break it in half…

LOL. send it on…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I've seen burled wood on infills. I wonder if it's good for a wood plane?


----------



## RPhillips

I would love to get in on this, but I'm afraid that the recipient isn't looking for a paper weight. lol


----------



## CFrye

Rob I'll trade you a toy balloon anchor for your paper weight! C'mon!


----------



## Mosquito

And I'll probably be making a door stop if anyone needs one lol


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I've already thought…. it would be wise to make sure it actually functions as a plane before any final shaping etc. ;-)


----------



## donwilwol

what better way to learn to make a plane then with a room full of plane makers?


----------



## Mosquito

test it out before final shaping… like this?










Clamped together, not glued, with a temporary wedge made from poplar lol

(No that's not the swap plane)


----------



## chrisstef

Where do you store the crew and passengers on the boat Mos?


----------



## BTimmons

I don't see the blog for that jointer build. You've been holding out on us, dude. Not only that, but now you have to finish it since we'll all hound you until it's done.


----------



## Cosmicsniper

I don't see my name in the list, Don. Add me please!!!


----------



## Mosquito

Lol I do need to get the blog going for that… I'm at the point that I was the most worried about… the tote lol. I did buy a chunk of maple with the intent of making a tote or two out of it, should be here hopefully next week.

I haven't cut it to size yet, so it's still 36" long lol But I was planning on doing 30" for it, depending on what proportions look good.


----------



## bandit571

IF I had the right wood for a small body, I THINK I have a 1-1/2" x 1/4" iron to use up.

More into "heavy Metal" than woodies, though.


----------



## donwilwol

For those on the fence, would a step by step build along krenov style convince you jump in?


----------



## wormil

Still not on the list either. Looking forward to getting started.


----------



## TerryDowning

Don W - For those on the fence, would a step by step build along krenov style convince you jump in?

YES!


----------



## rhett

Little motivation, plus I saw someone jokingly say they were making a plane with a 4" iron.


----------



## CFrye

Oh my GOODNESS rhett! That video *was *inspiring!


----------



## donwilwol

Mos has a great new blog on making his jointer, http://lumberjocks.com/Mosquito/blog/36798


----------



## Mosquito

aww crap lol


----------



## GregInMaryland

Hey Mosquito, do you need my address for the plane swap? I promise I will give it my best and use the best iron I have (like I pictured)!

Greg


----------



## rfusca

Sweet, I just picked up a used copy of 'Making & Mastering Wood Planes' from amazon for 5 dollars!


----------



## DanKrager

DonW WAKE UP! Mos has his plane ready to ship by 10:00am on the morning of GO! He's gonna ruin your reputation!
Mos, that is an AWESOME plane. Stef and TOF need a plane like that for their bench build…
DanK


----------



## RPhillips

just watched that vid ….now that's some shavings!


----------



## CFrye

Great score rfusca(Chris)!


----------



## RPhillips

Ok, I'm in.

Here's to trying!


----------



## Mosquito

lol I did get the blade I intend to use today, it's in pretty good shape, but needs a fair bit of flattening on the back.

I'll be somewhat sad if I finish my swap plane before I finish that jointer lol


----------



## GregInMaryland

Don, how many participants so far?

Greg


----------



## donwilwol

about 61 participants so far

EDIT 61….


----------



## rfusca

Anybody know what's different about a Japanese hand plane (kanna)?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Atta boy Rphillips. You gotta get outta your comfort zone to get better at this craft.

rfusca- You suck. Haven't seen a copy for less than 25 bones so far.


----------



## Mosquito

rfusca, the difference between a Japanese plane and a Western plane is blade position, shape, size (height), and use. The Japanese planes have the blade closer to the back of the plane, it's usually a shorter blade that's hollow ground on the back (and a very hard steel), the body of the plane is much shorter compared to western planes, and they're used by pulling them instead of pushing. That's the big differences, I'm sure there's other things I'm missing as well


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I think Mos makes this stuff up as he goes;-P Ahh man, I need a beer.


----------



## Mosquito

Looking at one of Mafe's blogs, I also forgot that the soles aren't flat, they're concave between the mouth and toe, and mouth and heel…

http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608


----------



## Mosquito

Started on mine last night  Didn't make tons of progress, but did cut a few pieces of wood for it. Also started sharpening up the iron.

The back wasn't too bad, but the bevel was messed up lol. Used the ol' hand crank grinder to get it closer, then hit the Coarse DMT for about an hour. Almost there, then finish flattening the back (It's got a hollow on the back middle, but is flat on the edge, similar to a japanese iron/chisel). Sadly probably another hour in that I'm guessing.

Then it's REALLY time to start making some progress


----------



## 7Footer

Have any of you used Brazilian cherry for the planes you've made in the past? I have some really nice looking BC and it was thinking of using it for the sides or maybe infills, but if its suitable maybe even using it for the sole, if its not great wood for this application I might just buy a small piece of lignum vitae for the sole. I think the Brazilian cherry would look great paired with some maple.


----------



## donwilwol

Brazilian Cherry looks to be about 2750 on the janka scale. That makes it great for a hand plane and harder than most rosewood. I'd be very happy to get a plane made with it!!

Its also harder than beech, which is one of the most common woods used in hand planes.


----------



## LukieB

A have a large board(8' x 8" x 4/4) of Brazilian Cherry I am thinking about using. I've had this board forever, and think that it would make some really nice plane soles/sides/body. So if anybody wants some and is willing to pay for shipping, I'll share….


----------



## Ripthorn

I made the first test cuts with mine last night and things are moving in the right direction. The sole on this one is brazilian cherry. Looks great, nice and hard. Now that I know this thing is functional, it's time to start prettying it up, which is probably where most of the time on this thing is going to come in. Then again, I haven't even decided if this one is up to snuff, or if I'm going to start on another. We'll just have to see. Unfortunately, I don't have any 8/4 stock, so I am having to lam up stock that started out 4/4, but because of some twist, it came in a little thinner, so if the glue lines bug me, I may start on a new one.


----------



## Sanding2day

As previously stated I have never before constructed a plane and have been getting acquatainted with the vast number of planes available. Ran acrossed a great site for a viewing of various Stanley planes which I believe is worth sharing. http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html

I am low on funds but would like to attain a good iron/chip breaker for this swap so the exchanged plane will at very least have that going for it  I have selected the woods to be used, Maple and Honduran Mahogany.

I have the basic plan completed and have began forming the parts as much as I can before attaining the iron to be used. I have layed out all pieces needing to be worked, and completed the "knob" from some nice left cutoffs that I had glued up for fun. I am certainly looking forward to sharing the completed plane which although maintaining the primary basics is taking a number of altertered design aspects which could very well be highly appreciated or condemned entirely. As the owner of a single Stanley block plane which I couldn't tell you the number of, or if I reassembled it correctly after sharpening *although it is doing what I want it to* I remain tentatively excited to hear the opinion of a seasoned plane user…


----------



## Dcase

I would like to make an Edge/Chisel plane for the swap… Its one of those planes that most wouldn't think to buy or build it themselves but it is actually a really handy one to have. I made myself one a while ago and I actually get a lot of use out of it.

I can also improve on my design and hopefully make it even better… Here is the one I made for myself.










If I make another one I would probably add a nice knob to the back of the plane and also go with a different iron. Pretty easy to make and its really handy.


----------



## Ripthorn

Love the chisel plane. I need to make myself one, as I seem to always find a use for one but never have one


----------



## terryR

Dan, I've always liked your chisel plane, but, as you mentioned, I just never make the time to make one. Looks great for cleaning up inside corners, or scraping glue drops off the bench top!

Is there a defined bedding angle, or is it personal preference? Looks like yours is bevel up, too?


----------



## Dcase

That is why I thought it would be a good plane to make for the swap. Most of us have smoothers, jacks and jointers but this would be something a little different that you probably don't have already.

I cant remember the exact angle of the bed, I think 20 deg. I got the angle from a plan from an old woodworking book. I believe the angle was copied from the edge plane that Stanley made.

I use mine for glue, getting into corners and it is great for scraping off paint. Especially getting the paint off in the corners of something like a window or door frame. I have also used it to trim wood plugs flush.


----------



## Derec

Figured if I was going to have a decent chance to make a decent plane, I was going to have to improve the resources I had in my shop.










May not be top of the line, but it is better than what I had (no band saw) and I couldn't beat the price (free!).

Now to start making some sawdust, and hopefully a hand plane too!


----------



## Dcase

Derec, Cant beat Free!! I am sure it will be a handy tool to have. I have been rather happy with my Ryobi tools.


----------



## mochoa

Good call Dan! One of those tools your are usualy to lazy to make but would be very handy when needed.

Derec, that will be very usefull for shapping the plane. And even if you get a bigger bandsaw later on you can always have the big one set up for straight cuts and the little one set up for curves. Free is nice!


----------



## Sanding2day

Sweet deal Derec… Nice work with the chisel plane Dan, I am shooting to make an approximately 12" jack plane for the swap as I believe this would be the most universally used plane, and not having anything but a block plane the one I currently desire, but you certainly make a good case for a chisel plane… May very well have to add a set to the ever growing to do list…


----------



## Iguana

Brazilian cherry (Jatoba) works well for planes. Very hard and dense, both desirable properties. It is my go-to material for a plane body. Keep your tools sharp while working with it.


----------



## donwilwol

If I can get the shop cleaned without getting distracted, I may get a krenov started today, but no promises, I've got a type 2 sargent #422 soaking.


----------



## rfusca

Geez, I just priced jatoba at the lumber yard…scratch one wood I won't be using for this project.


----------



## waho6o9

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R1.TR3.TRC2.A0.Xjatoba.TRS0&_nkw=jatoba&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Ebay's cost effective at times when purchasing exotic lumber.

Watch out for shipping costs and good luck.


----------



## rfusca

Hmm for the sizes I'd need, ebay *might* be doable…


----------



## LukieB

*Chris*, maybe you missed my post earlier, but I have a big ol hunk of Brazilian Cherry I'm willing to share in the spirit of the swap if you'll pay for shipping


----------



## rfusca

Code:


LukeB

 - I did see that…I just forgot all about it, lol…PM'ing now..


----------



## waho6o9

2 cool LukieB


----------



## Airframer

Thanks for the link to ebay though Waho.. picked up a nice chunk of 42 ½" x 6 ½" x 7/8" Brazilian Cherry for $20 shipped. That will do nicely. Just need to order my blade now.


----------



## waho6o9

You're welcome Eric, glad it worked out for you.

In case anyone missed it, fellow LJer Rhett is making an offer for 1 blade,
see the note above in DonW's post.


----------



## Tim457

This is killing me, I really want to join this one. But my already limited shop time is going to drop to near zero in the fall when I start a masters program.


----------



## RPhillips

Airframer, you have a link for that? or was it an ebay auction?


----------



## Airframer

It was an auction on ebay. Just click the link up thar ^ that waho6o9 posted and get to browsing. Also LukieB might still have some available.


----------



## jordanp

Two things I learned today
1. don't try and resaw granadillo into 1/4" slats with my current machinery 
2. Don't prototype with oak and granadillo it makes for expensive mistakes


----------



## donwilwol

Here is a step by step in progress. I'd like all to lend a hand.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/51482


----------



## DonBroussard

I got my irons from Rhett earlier this week-very nice. Thanks, Rhett. I'm not posting a pic on purpose.

I've taken it upon myself to take a leading role in this swap in asking stupid questions, so here goes: Do you sharpen a hollow-ground iron differently from a flat one? Can/should a hollow-ground iron be used on a wooden body hand plane?


----------



## Mosquito

I sharpen a hollow grind a little different in that I don't do a secondary bevel until the hollow grind is gone, then I move to a secondary bevel like I do my non-hollow ground irons.

Otherwise, exactly the same as anything else


----------



## rhett

Completely flattening the bevel of a plane blade is, IMHO, a complete waste of time.

The hollow grind is the* primary bevel * and what you sharpen on your stone becomes the* secondary*. On a bevel down, wooden plane, its the back flat of the iron that is contacting the wood.


----------



## CFrye

Not trying to outdo you Don B…but what is the difference in hollow ground and flat?
Can a plane blade be sharpened with fine grit sand paper glued to a flat surface?


----------



## donwilwol

I agree with Mos, except I NEVER move to a secondary bevel.

CFrye, when you sharpen an iron on a round wheel, its concaved to the shape of the wheel. That's hollow grinding. Yes you can sharpen on a flat surface. Do a search on "Scary Sharp".

Sharpening on a flat surface, you'd get a flat grind.

Question.
I am thinking of making a jack plane, but I have flat irons, not cambered. Can a jack have a flat iron?

Answer. Well …. yes and no. A jack plane is usually about 14" long. Can a 14" long plane have a flat iron? Absolutely, but its really not really a jack then, its just a 14" smoother. Just like you can put a camber on a 8" smoother and it becomes a short jack. A jack plane is meant to take chips very aggressively, and that's done with a camber. A jack also has a wider mouth to allow for the larger shavings.

Another Question;
I have a wooden jointer with a tote but no knob. Is there any reason NOT to include a knob on a wooden body plane?

Answer. No reason at all. If you look through images of vintage wood bodies, you will occasionally find them with a knob. Transitional's also had knobs.

Question;
Can/should a hollow-ground iron be used on a wooden body hand plane?

Yes. Its just a different way of sharpening because you have a round wheel. There really is no difference from a sharp perspective.


----------



## Mosquito

From rhett's response, I feel mine may be misunderstood.

I don't completely flatten out the hollow right away. I just hone it as it needs sharpening like anything else. Eventually the hollow will be honed away. Then instead of regrinding a hollow, I'll just switch to a flat primary and a secondary.

CFrye. Basically one is created from a flat surface, the other is created off a round one (grinding wheel)


----------



## donwilwol

Nice picture Mos!!

The advantage I see to hollow grinding is its easier (or i find it easier) to sharpen free hand. If you set a hollow ground iron on a stone, you can rock it and feel a "click" at the front and the back of the bevel. This allows me to find perfectly flat on the toe and heel of the hollow grind. Then with all the force at the front (toe) of the iron, I can retain muscle memory for the push forward.


----------



## CFrye

Thanks for responses! I am learning so much! Pictures say 1000 words…and then the light bulb comes on!


----------



## terryR

Well, my FIRST attempt at a blade iron came out wonderful…










...ummm…yeah, it's Osage Orange. LOL. But, all my heat-treating supplies haven't arrived in the post yet, and I wanted to get on with this build…So, I formed an exact replica of what I hope my iron will look like, and started a plane to fit it.

THANKS to Don's blog this AM, I now have my first Krenov plane in the clamps! Hope my teaser shot isn't too revealing…although this is probably a prototype and not a potential gift. But, so far, it sure looks good to me. I cannot wait for the glue to dry so I can start the fun part…shaping!

Only problem so far…I can see getting addicted to this!


----------



## Mosquito

lol I've already butchered up 2 pieces of wood for mine… let's see if I can do it right the 3rd time lol


----------



## DonBroussard

I'm seeking guidance on where and how to install strike buttons on the heel and toe of the plane/s I'm making. Any advice or resources are appreciated.


----------



## Mosquito

My plan is to either use a hard maple dowel or find something else similar. Then drill a hole and glue it in.

They're also not entirely necessary, but I'd rather hit that instead of just the plane body.

Also, there really only needs to be one. Either on the top of the toe or in the end of the heel. Both spots do the same thing.


----------



## donwilwol

Where, almost anywhere. I typically center it.

You really only need one.

If you put it in the back, cheat it toward the bottom of the plane.

As Mos said, a dowel works. I use a plug cutter. I've used a brass rod as well.

They can be square as well.


----------



## terryR

A strike button?
How about the brass end of a shotgun shell?


----------



## donwilwol

I'm not sure it would be heavy enough Terry. Your going to be smacking it with a brass hammer don't forget.


----------



## ShaneA

Strike button? Brass hammer? I think this could end badly for my recipient…


----------



## CFrye

That is a beautiful blade TerryR! heeheehee
I bought my first plane today. I'm hooked. If you want to read about it click here!


----------



## DonBroussard

Another basic question, this one re: mouth placement. I've been looking at several wooden body plane designs, and some have the mouth at the middle, while other designs have the mouth a bit more toward the toe of the plane. I have an L&T J White jointer (24" long), and the mouth is at about the 1/3 point toward the toe. Any insights on which placement is best?


----------



## rhett

According to Finck, who wrote a book on wooden planes, the basic rule is 5/9 ths of length from the heel (back)

Multiply the length of your desired body times 5 then divide that number by 9

For a 15" plane:
(15×5)/9
75/9
8.34 or 8 11/32


----------



## bondogaposis

A strike button?
How about the brass end of a shotgun shell?

It could be exciting for the recipient if it has a live primer.


----------



## Mosquito

If that doesn't free up the iron, I don't know what will lol


----------



## donwilwol

an auto eject for the plane iron. You guys might be on to something there.


----------



## rhett

I would also like to mention something in regards to bed angle. 45 degrees is the standard angle for most bench planes. Reason being, you can increase the angle of cut with a back bevel on your iron. A 10 degree back beveled iron, in a 45 degree plane, provides 55 degrees of cut. On the contrary, you cannot plane at an angle, less than your bed.

It is my opinion, that a lower bed angle provides more overall options. Since with multiple blades, back beveled at different angles, the same plane can perform multiple tasks.


----------



## mochoa

I have a 10 degree'ish backbevel on my #4 and I think it improves the performance very noticeably on squirrely grain.

Its not a crazy idea, even Jim Toplin writes about it in The New Traditional Woodworker.


----------



## jordanp

Does anyone have any suggestions on what thickness blade to use for a scrapper plane? also direction of the bevel.


----------



## donwilwol

Hock makes his scraper blades 3/32. I've used regular old block plane irons and they worked very well to. A normal iron can be used. All thats changed is the bed and mouth.

Direction of bevel is bevel down. You want the hook facing forward if you're going to hook it. If no hook, then it's still the same. The back of the blade goes toward the wedge. I specify that because the angle on a scraper can be reversed, so in reality its bevel up but backwards.


----------



## 489tad

I received my iron. Now what?


----------



## DonBroussard

@Rhett-Thanks for the info about the position of the plane's mouth. I'm too cheap to actually buy Finck's book, but by the time this swap ends, I should have the entire text of the book. I'll just compile and edit it and print it out for myself!


----------



## Gatorjim

Please forgive me but I am lost. I didn't put this on watch and wondered why I wasn't seeing updates. I found it tonight but with 205 replies I don't care to read all that . Can some one give me a quick update please. Dates, deadline for signing up etc? Again I apologize I added it to watch and will keep up. 
Thanks


----------



## donwilwol

A perfect lead in Jim

*Dates*
There will not be a last day to enter, as long as you have time to build the plane by the following deadlines.
Time frame - *shipment by Oct 15th.*
Since I'm trying to match up plane types, and I want to ensure everybody who gets a plane sends a plane we'll do this a little different than the last.

As soon as you've got you're plane completed send me a photo @ *LJ-swap.gmx.com* and tell me what it is and what you would like. At that time I'll match you with the next available slot. If you don't care what you get, then that will help me out.

Lets shot for Oct 10th for the deadline to get me a picture of the completed plane.
Send a picture as soon as its complete.

Obviously the longer you wait, the less chance you'll get a requested plane.

Send your address with your plane picture.


----------



## Gatorjim

Thanks Don
I am glad there's not a date to enter. I am going to give it a try but at least this way some one wont have to get kindling in the mail. Now on to Google to see what I can find.


----------



## terryR

Don, can you post the same rules when we have our wife swap?


----------



## donwilwol

*Terry*, I'll need to change the rules for that one. I'll only need pictures AFTER the swap.


----------



## Hammerthumb

I ordered an iron from Nice Ash on Monday. Does anyone know the dimension of the $50 2" iron? All I know is it is 1/4" thick by 2" wide. No length given.


----------



## DonBroussard

@Hammer-The 2" iron from Nice Ash is just a hair over 3-1/2", or as my wife would say "3-1/2" plus one little line".


----------



## Hammerthumb

Thanks Don!


----------



## mochoa

I'm kicking around the idea of making a side rabet plane! I know I've been dreaming of having one during my current WW project. Might be a good time to make a couple.

For example, my #45 doesn't have plywood sized cutters so I have to use undersized blades and then creep up on the right rebate width. Sure I could find some old blades and grind them down to the right size but where is the fun in that?


----------



## CFrye

hahaha Don B I think I may be related to your wife! Thank God for digital calipers!


----------



## CFrye

For those out there who are new to planes, in general, Buckethead shared this link with me. Thought I'd pass it on. Great for visual learner, like me! Thanks Buckethead!


----------



## RPhillips

Thanks for the link CFrye….since I'm still a noob, i'll be checking it out.


----------



## jordanp

Its quiet around here… Everyone in the shop?


----------



## CFrye

I have some old chairs that I'm pretty sure are maple I'd like to use in part for the plane swap.

















Is there any way to tell if it is maple? A home janka test?


----------



## donwilwol

if you're pretty sure its maple, it looks like maple, and its hard like maple, use it like maple.

Make sure its hard, sand a few pieces and post it back. The last picture doesn't look like maple, but its real hard to tell.


----------



## GMman

Hand made over 100 years old


----------



## donwilwol

wow Gman, proof there you don't need a tight mouth. Does it work?


----------



## terryR

Have to admit…I came close to buying 2 vintage wooden bodies from kneeBay last nigh for $8. Neither had an iron, one was missing the wedge, but I feel I can fix those problems now! 

Oooohhh, the slippery slope…


----------



## mafe

Great idea Don,
What a geat way to share skills.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Sanding2day

Nice Gman… Like how the wedge is supported with the extensions from the planes walls. Am also interested in the mouth opening and wonder how that impacts performance…

Although further along in the planning process for the swap I have successfully returned to a starting point destroying a 4" section of mahogany by inserting a knob which was too large for the hole/plane made for it… Likely for the best as this gave me the idea to design a correctly sized knob and to go through all of the sections of the plane minus the sole, as I would like to have a bubinga sole and mahogany/maple stock…

Here's hoping for more time in the shop and no further costly set backs…


----------



## tworavens

Half-ashed iron is ordered and hopefully on its way soon. Rhett, you're awesome for making such a generous offer. Now I just need to pick out the woods that I'm going to use.

I think I'm going to get creative for the crosspin. I've got some really neat turning stock that I could use for it…

CFrye, thanks for posting that link! It made me laugh on my lunch break and was very helpful for someone as new as I am to using hand planes. Now if only the lapping process would go faster on some of these older planes I'm tuning up…


----------



## Mosquito

heh… I feel you there Dan, I've made 3 of the same side of a plane before. Screwed it up 3 different ways. See if #4 works out lol


----------



## Mosquito

*tworavens*... have a belt sander? lol


----------



## wormil

GMman's wood body probably was/is a foreplane so the big mouth doesn't matter. And if it isn't a foreplane, it should be!


----------



## rhett

Just trying to share the love. If a little bit more of my time gets people in the shop, that is time well spent on my side.

Just a reminder, as stated in the OP. I am only doing the extra steps of blasting and grinding on ONE iron. If you order multiple irons half ashed, only ONE will get the special LJ treatment.

Be Good
Rhett


----------



## tworavens

*Mos*- Nope, I don't. I've got a piece of plate glass duct taped to a nice, flat board, with sanding belts spray-glued on the glass. Spent a good half-hour last night lapping my grandfather's old Craftsman on 80-grit, still haven't gotten rid of all the crosshatching I put on with a sharpie. Once that's gone I'll switch to the 120-grit, then maybe 220 grit for a final polish. The iron also has a big chip missing out of one corner…I think I'll be buying a bench grinder soon to take care of that…


----------



## rhett

@tworavens
I'm guessing the reason you aren't making any progress with the metal, is due to the type of a sandpaper your using. Standard aluminum oxide is really only good for wood and quickly breaks down when presented with metal. Try picking up some ceramic or zirconia oxide belts and then be amazed at the difference.

I was trying to grind metal on a belt sander with the normal AO belts. Got wise to the ceramic, have had the same belt on my sander for over 50 blades now and is still cutting like a champ.

FYI, ceramic is ideal for hardened steel, zirconia is good for normal or annealed. I have seen "shopsmith" brand ceramic belts at my local Lowes.


----------



## tworavens

Rhett- I made sure to get a ZnO belt! It's definitely taking metal off, I've had to clean it twice with the mini shop-vac. It's just taking a loooong time, because it's a crappy old Craftsman and rather out of flat. So it's an exercise in patience, more than anything else.


----------



## DonBroussard

I made a prototype plane this afternoon-no pics on purpose because I don't want to suggest what type of plane I might be making for the swap. I made a plane out of 3 thicknesses of laminated ash. I am trying a hybrid of a Krenov-style and a sold body plane. I cut the center piece like in a Krenov construction, but I intentionally cut the center piece out 1/2" thinner than the plane. Then I cut the center piece into the 45 degree bed angle piece and a 55 degree front section. With the two side pieces, I chiseled down the edge of the marks and then sawed a kerf to depth. I then chiseled out the matching bed angle and front angle, along with the abutment. Those pieces are clamped up now. Since I don't have a chip breaker, I did not have to carve out a relief for the nut (one less thing to chisel out). I made the wedge a bit bigger than the opening so I can fine tune it tomorrow after I take the body out of the clamps. Other than some tear out at the mouth, the plane is okay. I haven't sharpened the iron yet.

Lessons so far:

Even with the pieces separated, chiseling out the abutment and matching the precise angles is tricky.
I should have put a few alignment dowels to more accurately align the glue up.
I forgot to put a pinch of salt when I did the glue up!
Even without sharpening, the Nice Ash iron is pretty sharp (DAMHIKT).

I expect to collect more lessons this weekend!


----------



## bondogaposis

Let the squeezeout begin.


----------



## donwilwol

Just a mote, if any wishes to post a picture, questions or comment unanimously send them to the email address in the OP and I'll post them for you. Send me a PM because I may not be watching that email just yet.

It sounds like you've made some good progress Don.


----------



## mjrausch

i was making a plane for my self made of stainless steel. i believe i can get it done by this time. count me in


----------



## terryR

Well, my prototype came of the clamps and squared up nicely. Only one problem…










I sorta forgot to glue in the dowel for the wedge to press against. Doh!

So, I see 3 options:
1-drill for the dowel as is…and let it show on the outside…nah…
2-mortise in slots for the dowel…nah…
3-go with a carved wedge (Primus-style) and glue the abutments to the inside of the frame…hmmm…

Three sounds the most difficult…especially in this heat! But, that's my plan.


----------



## CFrye

Details! Details! Well, pretty sure now I won't forget that step. Thanks for taking one for the team Terry!


----------



## shampeon

Terry: if you go with option 1, find the piece you cut out from the center section and stick it back in. Then drill the hole on a drill press. No blowout, and it'll be parallel to the slot.


----------



## donwilwol

Terry, you could do option 1 with a brass rod and let it show.

You could use a bolt and thread one side.


----------



## terryR

Hmmm…2 very good options. It's sooo freekin' hot today, I feel very lazy, and option 1 is getting more votes. 

I don't have any brass over 1/8", but I've got larger nickel/silver pins…


----------



## richardwootton

I may live to regret this decision, and i might pity the person getting my plane, but I'm in!


----------



## MactheKnife

Ok I'm in, never built one before, but its got to be worth a try. Don, I'll PM you when its done.


----------



## DonBroussard

Finished up my first wooden body hand plane today. It's a 13-1/2" long x 2-7/8" wide plane with a bed angle of 45 degrees made of laminated ash. Got the iron from Nice Ash-2" wide and 1/4" thick with a hollow grind. I did not put any finish on it yet, and I may not-I kinda like the way it looks now. It feels very good in my hand. Now the plane I make for the swap won't be my first hand made wooden body plane!

I did have a bit of trouble tuning the wedge, so I learned to make small adjustments during the tuning step. Also, I learned that the space for shavings collection and ejection is a bit too small. Next one will have a bit larger opening.

Here are a few pics:










The markings on the side of the plane body show the opening to clear shavings.










Sole showing mouth and iron.

I am sorry now that I didn't sign up for the first two swaps. I am learning more quickly and challenging myself to make a product up to the standards of the woodworkers in this community.


----------



## rfusca

Nice looking plane!


----------



## donwilwol

that looks great Don.


----------



## CFrye

Well done DonB! That's beautiful!


----------



## terryR

Great Ash, DonB! 

Nice looking plane, there. You can always go after this one with a drill and chisel to open up more clearance for shavings. Hate to see it become a shelf sitter…


----------



## donwilwol

I've had to open a few up. I'd suggest making the front a full taper with just a small flat. Kind of like this one.


----------



## DonBroussard

Thanks for the good words, guys and gal. I like the way it looks, but I want it to work well too!

@terryR-I probably need to work on the wedge first to see if that's where the shavings are getting backed up. If the wedge adjustments don't solve that issue, I'll have a go with my 1/4" wide chisel on the abutments and a rasp on the ramp.


----------



## mochoa

Wow Don! You first plane and you go fot the classic style? That's bold man!


----------



## DonBroussard

@DonW-I don't know that I could do that much rasping between now and October 15 to get a full taper. Plan A is in Post 309. Plan B is to resaw it, make adjustments and reglue. If my small adjustments don't work out so well, I might have to use my Plan B.

@Maur-Could be bold, or simply too naive to know any better. I'm pretty happy with it though. Hopefully by the end of the weekend, I can post the obligatory money shot with gossamer shavings.


----------



## mochoa

Fortune favors the bold DonB. Sometimes you just got to do it.

I dont think you need to do much rasping, it would mostly be mortising out the front where the shavings come out. Grab a chisel and a mallet and to town.


----------



## rhett

Love to see all the plane making going on. LJ's is setting in motion the revival of the woodie.

In the spirit of building planes, I spent my day making a new jig for my homemade overarm router. I thought backbeveld irons were a good trick for tough grain, but a thick ash iron in a 55 degree plane is very nice.

The motivation of you builders is contageous.


----------



## donwilwol

@DonB. Yea the picture wasn't so much for you as everybody else. You've already made the mistake and I've actually made it more than once. I'd just open yours up like Maur suggested.

Rhett. I agree. I'm. Not a big back bevel fan. It works, but not as well as a 55 degree plane. Plus you keep all your iron bevels the same. Plus you get to make or buy another plane.


----------



## LakeLover

Rhett. Do you know the cost of shipping a plane iron to Canada?


----------



## Natedog

This sounds like fun, I'm in!


----------



## RichCMD

From an earlier post by Rhett:

According to Finck, who wrote a book on wooden planes, the basic rule is 5/9 ths of length from the heel (back)
Multiply the length of your desired body times 5 then divide that number by 9

If I may, I would like to ask a couple of follow-up questions. Is this to the front or back of mouth? Also, are there any guidelines for determining the width of the mouth?


----------



## Iguana

Rich, the 5/9ths is just a guideline. Even if you want to follow that ratio exactly, the 1/4" or so difference between the front and back of mouth is immaterial in terms of the performance of the plane.

In general, you want about 1/16" clearance on each side of the iron. So, that makes the bed width and mouth about 1/8" wider than your iron. This clearance allows a little wiggle room in case your iron and/or bed is/are slightly skewed. Some folks go for a bit less clearance, some go for a bit more. Finck recommends 3/16" total clearance - works fine but IME isn't necessary.

Assuming you are using a cross-pin design, having a lot of extra room (to a point) doesn't hurt the performance of the plane. It might look funny, but the plane will still work well.

If you use the more traditional ears/wedge style (a la Don B's plane above), a large gap on the side can be problematic due to where the wedging forces are directed - those forces should be as near the sides of the plane as possible, which means making the bed/mouth a fairly tight fit to the iron.


----------



## RichCMD

Thanks, that is great information.


----------



## rfusca

So, I took LukieB up on his offer for some of the Brazillian Cherry…and WOW, I got a USPS medium flat rate filled with really neat wood goodies! There's a thin, dark, highly figured wood that is absolutely gorgeous! 
Thanks, LukieB!


----------



## chrisstef

Lukie - one of the best jocks around. Good stuff fellas.


----------



## rfusca

This was some of the darker, thin stuff - its amazing!


----------



## BTimmons

Chris, I'm 99% sure that wood pictured above is wenge. Beautiful stuff, but be careful with it! The splinters can be toxic enough to put you in the hospital and the dust won't do your lungs any favors either. See "allergies/toxicity" in that link.


----------



## Hammerthumb

I agree with BT. That stuff makes my nose bleed just looking at it. Nice looking, not too hard to work, but watch out for splinters.


----------



## PaBull

I agree! And not fun to work with!


----------



## donwilwol

An infill of wenge.http://lumberjocks.com/projects/81622

It looks good but can be splintery. I made a mauser stock from it that came out great to. A little heavy for a rifle stock, but not to bad.


----------



## LukieB

Chris, glad you got your stuff OK. There was still so much room in those flat rate boxes, I figured everyone would rather have some scrap lumber to play with than packing peanuts or old newspapers : )

It is indeed wenge, scraps from the millwork shop I used to work for. Rescued from the dumpster believe it or not. They were cut offs and rejects from door skins for a home in Aspen. I had no idea what I was gonna do with them, but couldn't let em get trashed. Brought home quite a bit, hope you can find a use for em.


----------



## BTimmons

For what it's worth, wenge should make an awesome sole for a plane.


----------



## rhett

I've read you should wipe down exotics with acetone before glue up. I have never used wenge, but have used other oily woods. Seems to make a difference, just be careful with the rags.


----------



## donwilwol

The problem with wenge, being so splintery, you need to be very careful when making the mouth.


----------



## LukieB

Brian, Paul, and Rhett are all correct, if you get a splinter, get it out immediately, (fortunately, they're easy to spot), use a mask/dust collection whenever creating dust, and glue will hold a lot better if you wipe it down with acetone/lacquer thinner just prior to glue up.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

My college girlfriend was a real wenge. Ironically she had this affect on my face.


----------



## CFrye

My goodie box arrived today from LukieB today as well. If I hadn't already put in a 12 hour shift I'd be out in the shop!
Lucas, great save on the wenge! Trying to ID the other pieces. Walnut, maple, oak, cedar and pine? And, of course, the BC!! Thanks for all the info on the wenge and


----------



## CFrye

...any tips on working with the wenge to decrease splintering?


----------



## donwilwol

Tips for working with wenge. Keep tools sharp. Cut from both directions, in other words if your cutting the mouth, cut from the bottom. Never cut toward the edge. Use a rasp but still rasp away from the edge.

It's pretty much the same as with all hard wood, just exaggerate because its so splintery.

You can also use the quality to your advantage. Like hogging out areas are easier because it splits out much easier than other woods.


----------



## shampeon

I agree with Don. Sharp tools and a light touch are key. I made it through my marking gauge build without any splinters or splitting. I did get a little bit of chip-out making the mortise. I honed every cutting edge before I used it, and occasionally mid-project.

In some cases, it's easier to make things with unforgiving woods like wenge, because you don't even try anything you know isn't the best idea.


----------



## rfusca

Got in mastering and making hand planes today. Surprised that he recommends laminating thinner boards such that the glue line would run along the sole instead of the sides. Overall great so far!


----------



## rfusca

This book really makes me want a band saw…and the wife wants one too (yes, I know how awesome that is!). Who knows,maybe one will be in the future soon.


----------



## mikewhite

OK. I need a ruling here: Is a spokeshave an acceptable interpretation of "hand plane" for the purposes of this swap?

If it has to be a straight-up, no bs, ACTUAL plane I'm OK with that but I'm sorta in the middle of this whole spokeshave thing just now…


----------



## rfusca

I vote yes on spokeshave personally (and would *love* to receive one) - I think its in the spirit.


----------



## mochoa

I second that motion.


----------



## waho6o9

Yes on a spoke shave as well.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Me too. I'd love to have another.


----------



## JayT

Don's got the final word, but I feel a spokeshave would be appropriate.


----------



## donwilwol

If by final word you mean I tally the votes, I haven't heard anyone disagree. My vote would be yes as well. If you make one, and somebody wants one, its good by me.


----------



## CFrye

Nice Ash blade arrived today!! Glued up some oak for a practice plane…
I'd like to have a spoke shave as well. :-D


----------



## Ripthorn

It seems like with all the spokeshave love (I would like one too!) we should almost save that for a separate swap. Then again, I'm game for whatever others say.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Thought I would share a prototype with you guys. Not too sure what ya'll are getting worked up about. This plane only took my son and I about 10 min to make. Sweet TP shavings.


















Don, you might want to pare us up with a Bronco fan.


----------



## chrisstef

Send it to me Red and im going Patrick Leach transistional on that thing. Hey, maybe you could get Von Miller to help out for a few weeks in early September, I hear his schedules open


----------



## bondogaposis

I'm going to go against the grain and say that I think this should remain a hand plane swap, because That is what 50 something of us signed up for. I do think that spokeshaves would be something to consider for a future swap. My 2 cents.


----------



## CFrye

That is sweet Red! Nice of your son to let you help!


----------



## mds2

I don't care if people make spokeshaves. But I am making a plane, and would like to receive a plane.


----------



## Mosquito

I too am making a plane, and would like one. I think spoke shaves wouldn't be a bad idea for a future swap. Don't want to run out of ideas too quickly now, do we?

Sweet prototype Red lol


----------



## Sanding2day

Also making a plane but its anyone's guess what kind *May not know for sure once its completed* or what type of wood(s) it will be made from… Have 3 different ones partially done and still in need of $ for a nice new iron…


----------



## JayT

Well, I'm finally ready to get started on some plane making prototypes. Got a couple Half Ashed irons ordered and will hopefully be able to work in my shop instead of on my shop. I've spent the last two weeks rearranging, rebuilding storage and reorganizing the shop to make room for the new workbench.


----------



## jordanp

Couple of questions for you pro's out there.

1st A friend of mine gave me some brass and stainless steel round stock to use for the bar that the wedge will press against, How thin can this bar be? the material he gave me is 1/4" and from what i've noticed people seem to be using 1/2" stock.

Basically will this work?

2nd i've seen people drill all the way through both sides and i've seen people just drill shallow holes on the inside for the bar to rest on, are there any pro's or cons to doing this either way or is it just purely aesthetics.


----------



## shampeon

Jordan: I'd use thicker stock than 1/4" personally.

The advantage of drilling through is that, assuming you're using a drill press that's been trued square to the table, you're assured that the holes will be parallel to the mouth opening. The disadvantage is that you need to do something (like peen the ends a bit) to keep the bar from moving.

The advantage of bedding the cross bar from the inside is that it won't pop loose. But it's harder to make it parallel to the mouth. If the bar isn't parallel, you can compensate for it by adding an offset to the wedge.


----------



## donwilwol

A agree with Ian and will add this. A 1\4" stainless MAY work, but think surface area for friction contact. I would think 1\4" brass would be way to soft.

When I drill all the way through I use a tenon type pin. You could peen or pin as well. Just have a plan.


----------



## mds2

Jordan, and not to be contradictory to shampeon, but I always use 1/4 brass rod. I drill a 1/4" hole all the way through and then tap the rod in. I have never had one come loose in over 2 years. Plus with the wedge tapped in place nothing is going anywhere.

You can peen the ends of the rod. It makes it look nice but isn't necessary.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/84007 - all 1/4" brass, and I use all of those planes nearly every day.


----------



## mds2

Sanding2day, you dont need to spend a lot on irons. I use a lot of $2 Great Neck brand irons in my planes. They get razor sharp and, surprisingly, hold an edge very well. I think I bought all that amazon had when they were on sale one day. Woodcraft will also sell irons really cheap, like $8, but you have to look for the sales.


----------



## donwilwol

Contradiction is good, especially when it comes with proof.


----------



## rfusca

For cheap irons, amazon has replacement stanleys for $10 and I just got some used from ebay for $5 shipped.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Jordan - if you want to have the pin between the sides without it showing. Make a template of 1/4" ply to match the body of the planes vertical profile. Drill the hole in the template and then uses the template as a guide to drill one side at a time. Hope that makes sense. Should be able to get it parallel that way. At least that is the way I would do it if I made planes with the cross bar. Planes I have made are the traditional wing style.


----------



## terryR

mds2, Thanks for sharing your planes! Nice set!!! I would've bet against brass that small, but not any more.  Gonna have to re-think my plane plan.

I hate to recommend the Buck Bros. name brand for anything, but their $3 replacement irons at the Borg will make nice shavings. Not a Ferrari…but sometimes you don't wanna scratch the Real Thing with rough work.


----------



## rhett

The ultimate strength of stainless steel is 860 Mpa, brass is 250 Mpa and wood is 256 down to 40 Mpa. A 1/4" steel rod is the equivalent of a 3/4" wood rod ,of the absolute hardest wood known. I have many japanese planes with 1/8" rods.

The real benefit of using a smaller diameter, steel/brass rod, is room for shavings to exit. They have to go somewhere…

Surface area can be increased by putting a flat on one side of your metal rod. I've done it to apease the naysayers, but feel it isn't really needed, since the wooded wedge compresses to the rod, making a perfect negative of the angle and placemant of the rod.


----------



## rhett

Pa is a Pascal unit , a measurement of pressure, stress and tensile strength. Mpa is a mega (1,000,000) pascal unit.


----------



## Iguana

And I'll chime in to offer another approach. I use 3/16" or 1/4" brass rod and make a sleeve with a flat side to fit over the rod.









While there is a bit less room for shavings to exit than with a sleeve-less rod, I haven't found that to be an issue.


----------



## TerryDowning

Wow, racing stripes, how cool is that??


----------



## rhett

Nice Mark,

I've thought about a similar rig, but with a stainless bushing.

Love the stripe.


----------



## shampeon

Well, there you have it. Two pros have set the record straight on 1/4" diameter rod. I guess it's true that it's not the size of the rod that counts.


----------



## chrisstef

Shamp - that made my morning ^. Im going to go and tell my wife that im ok! Im gonna make it!!


----------



## terryR

I guess it's true that it's not the size of the rod that counts LOL

Ian, the rod only really needs to be sized for the hole, inserted properly, and held in place when needed. 

BTW, some really great looking planes shown recently! I love the look of the steel rod with a wooden sleeve…especially when the stripes all match up. WOW, Mark! Cocobolo, Maple, and Ebony? ( and Hock!)


----------



## chrisstef

Man all you guys all ready tossin out prototypes. Ive got krenov plans printed out and wood combos floatin around my empty noggin but thats about all. I need some pressure of a dead line. And to stop obsessing over saw rehabs.


----------



## CFrye

Second glue up on the first practice plane underway. Seems in my enthusiasm I didn't measure for width. Now the blank will be too wide. That's a lot easier to fix later.


----------



## Iguana

TerryD - biggest stock (of anything but pine) I can easily obtain is 8/4, so some kind of laminated body blank is in order. Might as well get creative.

And when you don't have 8/4 on hand - or even 4/4 - no worries! This one came from a bunch of thin scraps and leftover veneer:


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I hope I don't need a prototype. There will be if I screw the first one up

Got a lot done on mine today. After cutting the shape with a bandsaw, I started shaping it with a spokeshave. It worked well and I enjoyed it much more than a rasp. I'm thinking about leaving the spokeshave tracks and not sanding it further. It looks kinda cool.


----------



## Airframer

I have yet to really start on mine yet. I have a basic plan, a blade and the wood but I have a few other projects that I want to clear out first before I start this one. Getting a good push on my bench so once that's finished I should be able to hit this hard and get 'er done in time (fingers crossed).


----------



## Iguana

TerryR - *Jatoba*, Maple and Ebony, with an Ipe sole. Jatoba is wonderful for plane body material, but sanding end grain is kind of like sanding hardened steel.

Rhett - I think I'm going to use that idea. Probably in brass, with a flat milled into it.

Stef - If you need a deadline, here's one: August 1. Just do it.


----------



## terryR

Very nice work, Mark! Wow, I've never seen Jatoba that dark…lovely.

I really like that cross pin design the more I see it! Any need to glue the brass or steel rod in place? It seems if the metal pin were glued into the wooden sleeve, no movement of either could occur?

...gotta get back in the shop…been 2 whole weeks…and I'm getting the shakes!


----------



## Iguana

TerryR - the jatoba is finished with tung oil, which darkens it a bit. Like cherry, it also darkens with exposure to light, and this plane was about a year old when the pic was taken.

No glue used in the crosspin/sleeve. The hole in the sleeve is drilled out a couple thou larger than the rod, so it can rotate freely when the wedge is removed. The holes in the cheeks of the plane are drilled at exactly the rod diameter, for a tight fit. The pin stays in place even without the wedge, but is easy to remove should the need arise.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya Mark, I noticed that with the 1/4" brass rod I installed on my plane. The friction fit seems sufficient.


----------



## Jman8

I am in, it will be my first plane


----------



## RPhillips

Some nice looking planes posted here!

Well I'm visiting the great state of Kentucky and I'm looking forward to getting started on my plane. Still a few more things to squire before I start, but the list is getting shorter.

BTW - KY's where in the heck can I get some Bourbon? Seems everywhere we look doesn't sell alchohol.  
Wanted to get a nice bottle of Woodford Reserve or something to take home with me, but haven't had much luck finding any.


----------



## terryR

Thanks for the details, Mark! That should keep me from messing up my first prototype!


----------



## kenn

Rob, many counties in KY are dry, no alcohol at all! Check to see if your location allows alcohol sales. Woodford Reserve is an excellent choice, I'd suggest trying Evan Williams Single Barrel (excellent bourbon and less than $39) and Bulliet 10 yr old ( a little spicier taste due to mere rye in the mash).

Other than family, bourbon and woodworking are my passions, not at the same time tho'. Be safe.


----------



## RPhillips

Well, what I meant say in that last post was that I was visiting KY and couldn't wait to get home and so I could get started on my plane.  ...or at least go pick up my band saw

For my my build, I'm leaning towards a 55 degree build….

@Ken

Yep, seems every county we visited was dry.  We went to Mammoth Cave…the cave was awesome!

I've never had Woodford Reserve, so I figured that would be a good place to start. A friend of mine (a bourbon enthusiast) gave me some Pappy Van Winkle, I must say that it was the best bourbon that I had ever had.


----------



## 489tad

I glued up some material for a practice plane. Oh boy.









I also been working on something for me. The prototype worked out nice so now I have to make it in nice wood.


----------



## chrisstef

^ ive got thoughts Dan. Personal prototype huh? Looks curvy. Whats her name?


----------



## wormil

Bourbon, now you're talking my language. Rob if you get a chance, tour some distilleries. I found them very interesting and the Wild Turkey distillery smells like heaven even from half a mile away. If I remember correctly, Wild Turkey and Four Roses sell bourbon on site but Woodford is in a dry county. Also Kentuckians are the friendliest people on the planet.


----------



## RPhillips

Ok, Dan, what's with the arch? Boomerang plow plane? 

@Rick, I'm only about 2.5 hrs from Jim Beam, so I'm going to make it a trip one day to the Bourbon Belt and try to hit all that I can. I wish I could have another sip of that Pappy Van Winkle, but at >$120 a fifth, I doubt that will ever happen again. >_<


----------



## 489tad

Ok, with all the talk of bourbon I thought I'd try to make a barrel groove plane. Why not.


----------



## rhett

Thanks to everyone who has bought an iron from me for this swap. Put a bit of a dent in my supply, but not to worry, been cutting and grinding another batch of blades. Doing most of the work, pre-heat treat, so in the future the half-ashed blades will be sent out pre-ground.


----------



## donwilwol

oh what a sweet pile of steel!!


----------



## CFrye

That picture should come with a warning Rhett: Place drool cloth over keyboard to prevent short circuiting.


----------



## Ripthorn

What is the consensus on router planes? I have been changing my mind constantly, but wanted to know what the though here is on that.


----------



## Derec

I know it probably has been discussed before, but I have question about what wood type would be good to use.

There is a sawmill not to far from me, Elliott Sawmill in Sanford, NC, that sells yellow pine, red cedar, oak, cypress, walnut, maple and poplar.

I would like to buy from them rather than the big box stores.

I am still learning to use some of the tools I have. Have not been able to cut a decent line on the band saw yet, which is a bit frustrating.


----------



## waho6o9

I hear ya on the band saw.


----------



## donwilwol

*Derec*

Do NOT use, yellow pine, red cedar, and poplar.

I know oak and maple (make sure its hard maple) and walnut (make sure its walnut and not butternut) are ok.

I've never worked with cypress and I can't find it on the janka scale, so somebody else will need to chime in.


----------



## chrisstef

Cypress will be too soft IMO.


----------



## Mosquito

http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/cypress/


----------



## donwilwol

Cypress 510 on the janka scale. Way to soft IMO to.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

My plane it pretty much done. Coincidentally of Hard maple and walnut.

It was pretty fun to make….and I'm very happy with the blade I got from Rhett.


----------



## donwilwol

As to the router plane question, I'd say go for it. I think a few others may be making one.


----------



## ksSlim

cypress should be close to Eastern Red Cedar in hardness.


----------



## jordanp

Just picked up a load of cabinet doors maybe a bit of resawing and glue ups could produce a nice wooden plane body?

I've already finished 1 prototype out of scrap Oak and Red Oak, picked up a cheap-o Great Neck Block Plane blade and sharpened it a little bit..


----------



## chrisstef

Nice work on the sharpening Jordan but when it comes time for the Brazilian id prefer no video


----------



## jordanp

Hahaha. I'll be sure and send that video via private message to ya


----------



## chrisstef

By looking at the thickness of your chops, you better get the strop ready, that irons gonna need some honing after tramping through that forest lol.

Jokes aside, getting an iron to shave hair is really a cool experience and to be commended. Well done brother.


----------



## jordanp

Yea it took a bit of work. but after working with the "Scary Sharp" Method for a while you get to where you can throw on edge on a blade pretty fast.


----------



## jordanp

Choices choices…. What to glue…. What to glue


----------



## Tugboater78

was thinking of using some of my distressed/reclaimed oak for the plane i make, any thoughts on the viability?


----------



## CFrye

Jason, I am using oak recycled from a cabinet frame in my practice plane. A doweled joint may still be visible on the toe when shaping is finished as well as some nail holes on one cheek. I hope it will work! I,too, will be watching for answers to your question. God bless.


----------



## CFrye

Jason, I am using oak recycled from a cabinet frame in my practice plane. A doweled joint may still be visible on the toe when shaping is finished as well as some nail holes on one cheek. I hope it will work! I,too, will be watching for answers to your question. God bless.

Sorry for duplicate post. Can't figure out how to delete.


----------



## donwilwol

Its not uncommon to find vintage planes made out of oak and chestnut. Chestnut plane were fairly common herer in the north east back before the blight.

my last 36" jointer us made from reclaimed oak. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/87354


----------



## CFrye

How much does that beast weigh, Don?


----------



## donwilwol

it weighs 12lbs 4 oz.


----------



## waho6o9

Nice job on the 12 lber DonW!

You can turn that puppy upside down and have a portable joiner
if need be. Something like the picture below, oh yeah, joiner to go please.


----------



## jordanp

36" Jointer wow that is pretty awesome Don


----------



## WayneC

Waho, the stand is cool.


----------



## mochoa

Don has one of those in his living room.


----------



## donwilwol

Dinning room actually.


----------



## mochoa

Nice!


----------



## mds2

A plane that doubles as a sawhorse. Genius!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

What about the type of finish for a wooden plane? What should we use?


----------



## donwilwol

blo, wax, poly, Danish oil, shellac, lacquer, hmm, drawing a blank.

Use whatever you like. I typically use BLO then wax, sometimes just wax if its darker wood like rosewood.


----------



## jordanp

I'm with Don my favorite finish for shop made tools is BLO and wax/paste wax 
I also made a small buffing wheel that I put in my drill
Press to polish smaller projects.


----------



## jordanp

I have to say Rhett that is one fine blade I just received in the mail. I just honed a secondary bevel on it and its probably sharper than any blade I've ever held..


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^yup, they are nice. Some nice ash irons

Thanks for the tips on finishes fellas. Sent you my pic Don.


----------



## rfusca

Got irons, wood, and a plan. Vacation next and and finish the very end of one project and then time to start the hand plane madness. I've got some ideas that include a lathe…


----------



## Iguana

BRK, just about any finish will do. Whatever finish you choose, though, do no put anything smooth or slippery on the bed, wedge or (depending on your design) crosspin or ears. The iron and wedge need to stay firmly in place.


----------



## jordanp

Just started on my third hand plane.. And i have designs mapped out for four others.. Don you have created a monster..


----------



## terryR

Goodness gracious…
jordanp is on plane no. 3, Big Red has turned in his finished plane…

Where's my slacker buddies like Shane, who are still tinkering with prototype1? LOL

That's it…I'm taking a day OFF today to tinker with my prototype!!!!!!!


----------



## ShaneA

I am here Terry. Figured I would start thinkng making a plane about in mid-september. Why rush, right? Should be interesting.


----------



## chrisstef

I second Shanes approach. No fun unless the pressure is on.


----------



## waho6o9

Some one's making planes?

Interesting. September is a fine month.


----------



## Mosquito

Making the swap plane is on the list of things I'm making myself finish before I start building a computer case for myself… we'll see if that happens though lol


----------



## jordanp

Well terry I have a feeling I will be making them all through September as well this appears to be my new addiction..


----------



## Derec

Hey thanks for the info on what wood to use!

Stopped by the sawmill on Friday, and wouldn't you know they were closed for lunch. Just my luck.

But I do have some wood I am going to use for prototyping!

Off to work on some ideas!


----------



## CFrye

Scrapping prototype #1. On to #2!


----------



## terryR

Jordan, that's a cool addiction! we need photos…

got any seconds ya wanna sell that I can stamp MY name on and enter for the swap? LOL. Only kidding, sorta.

I need to prove I make this thing, ya know? I mean, if Shane and Candy can do it…so can I. 

Waho, I'm pretty sure you have one with brass inlays already going…


----------



## bondogaposis

I'm working on mine but it is slow going with a lot of distractions right now. I have to say that it is going to be hard to part w/ that nice ash iron.


----------



## CFrye

That's the spirit Terry! Although I hope your effort goes better than mine so far! I'm learning! May have to scrap some more cabinets before I'm through…8-/


----------



## jordanp

I want to post a photo of my second prototype but I'm afraid it will look a lot like my final product..
What should I do?

Lol I used 4 different species of wood on the last one..


----------



## jordanp

Hehe terry I'm not sure you would want to put your name on my work.. Might make ya look bad


----------



## rhett

I'll enable everyone's plane making addiction….

All of my half-ashed blades will have the initial grind, instead of the 45, once the next batch comes back from HT.

I will also have 1" irons for sale, perfect for small blocks and rebate/shoulder planes.


----------



## jordanp

You rock Rhett I will be putting in another order later this month.. How long till the 1" blades are available?


----------



## CFrye

Rhett, your 1" blade may save my first proto type from becoming a group of bandsaw boxes! Got a little carried away reducing the width on it.


----------



## jordanp

Hehe I have one that will hold a 1" blade also I wasn't sure what I was going todo with it until Rhett's post


----------



## rhett

New batch of O1 will be picked up Thursday.


----------



## CFrye

Rhett, it's Thursday. Are the 1" blades available? I checked the website and didn't see them…not that I'm rushing you ;-)


----------



## rhett

Well, in my rush to send out the irons, I failed to put the tempering slip inside the box….Picking them up tomorrow.


----------



## jordanp

My mini smoothing prototype is done it just needs a 1" blade..


----------



## jordanp

What's the price going to be on the 1" blades?


----------



## Timbo

I found this quick simple jig to help with laying out the wedge pin placement and thought I would post it here, maybe it will help a little.


----------



## jordanp

Nice share Tim.. Looks like the jig is laid out for those heavy ash blades from Rhett.


----------



## Timbo

Yes it is Jordan but it will work with any blade.


----------



## mds2

Good post Tim. That little jig makes things a lot easier.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

That jig reminds me of something I encountered making my plane. Say someone is making a krenov style plane. When they glueup, couldn't they just glue the pieces so there is little or no mouth opening. Then, make real light passes on the sole with a power jointer. Since pieces are inverted. it would slowly open the mouth to the desired width.

Hope I described that well enough.


----------



## Mosquito

Yes Red, it would work. Though you'd likely want to make it only just too small for the blade to clear, otherwise you'd be wasting more material than you have to. It's sort of the plan for the one I'm making now


----------



## mds2

Big Red, that is pretty close to what I do. The final fitting is done with a file though.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, it was one of those times when I thought, "I can't be the only one who has thought of this."

I got mine to where the iron barely cleared, and then I filed an inverted front edge on the mouth…. similar to what Rhett does. That way the mouth won't open up when the bottom gets flattened.









Photo from Mauricio's review on Nice Ash planes


----------



## mochoa

I thought that grainy picture looked familiar. 
I can attest to Rhetts method producing a ridiculously tight mouth where no daylight can be seen and yet shavings don't get clogged up.


----------



## Timbo

Finished my plane up today, its out drying in the sun. I tried it out before applying BLO, and Rhett that blade is SAWEET!

Don, sent you an email.


----------



## rhett

The 1" blades are now available on the site. Selling half-ashed for $18.


----------



## Derec

My wife is a school teacher….

I have come to the conclusion I am not going to be able to get anything done until she goes back to school.


----------



## jordanp

Awesome Rhett I will place my order on payday


----------



## CFrye

Same here…waiting for payday.

Derec school should be starting soon… Hold on!


----------



## donwilwol

I've started getting a few really nice photos.* PLEASE add your address in the same email as the picture. *

thanks


----------



## JayT

Finally got some work in. Currently have two planes in clamps, hopefully at least one of them will be swap-worthy when they're done. So far it was much easier than I had anticipated, we'll see how the rest goes.


----------



## CL810

Is this the NEXT swap?


----------



## CFrye

CL810, if it is I'll be sitting it out for sure! Finally got to make some shavings with the recycled oak prototype! Yay!








It has … issues. The wedge pin is not straight. I think that's why I can only get it to shave on one side. Anyway it gave me the confidence I needed to finally cut into that Brazilian cherry that LukieB shared. Got the cheeks cut and the body glued up for another try. I hope I'm learning!


----------



## rhett

If the pin is not parallel to the bed, your plane can still be salvaged by adjusting your wedge.

Your iron and wedge should be the same width. When they sit inside the mouth, not under tension, the sides of the wedge should be flush with the sides of the iron.

When doing this, if the top of the wedge leans to the left, the right side of your wedge needs thinned or vise-versa.

80 grit paper on a flat surface works well for wedge adjustment. Press on the thick side when sanding and check progress often.

If your iron and wedge sit tight, but your plane is still cutting heavy to one side, then most likely your bed is out of square to your sole.


----------



## CFrye

Thanks Rhett. Some how the wedge has become tapered from top to bottom, width wise, as well. So I figured I'd just trim that to fit the first prototype (soon to be sized for a one inch blade) and make a new wedge for #2 and thin it like you described. HOPEFULLY it will all work out! Live and learn!


----------



## Timbo

Candy- the wedge I made is curved, this made it more difficult to keep the thickness even side to side. I used a piece of paper as a feeler gauge, sand a little check the fit, sand a little check the fit. It took a while but now have a perfect fit from side to side.


----------



## CFrye

Thanks Tim. I'll try that.


----------



## jordanp

Need a second pair of eyes
Does this look flat? and does the blade look squared up to the mouth?


----------



## terryR

Jordan, my friend, all I can see is that you don't have enough grass to mow and keep you out of the shop! No fair.


----------



## donwilwol

jordanp, it looks way out of whack. You better send that to me so I can dispose of it properly.


----------



## rhett

Looks good from my house.


----------



## RPhillips

Ireety, I agree completely!


----------



## terryR

Jordan, I'm sure you know I was just kidding.  That plane looks great! The ?red oak stripe down the center is very subtle.

I actually made shop time today…ripped my plane prototype in 1/2 so the store bought blade will fit. Used my fav Jack to remove more width from the center…but got carried away and made the body too narrow for the blade. No prob…add a racing stripe, and re-glue together. 

I also spent way too much time laying out the position of the cross pin…but went ahead and placed it during this glue up. It looks horribly close to the front of the plane…but hopefully I mocked it up correctly. I'm making the wedge in the morning, and hoping for shavings by noon! (probably just cursed my luck)

photos tomorrow…


----------



## terryR

This thread needs more photos…but what a catch22…cannot show what we want to give as gifts. 

As promised, cherry shavings by noon!










My humble prototype1 made from walnut and maple, 45 degree bedding angle, walnut pin simply hammered into place. Total length of about 10", so I guess it's a Jack?

How was it Candy put it, "It has issues" LOL. As you can see, I didn't clean up the body after inserting the extra piece of walnut to correct my width mistake from yesterday. Instead, I tried to focus on tight mouth clearance and proper placement of the cross pin.

And, as I feared, the cross pin is WAY too far forward! I had to make 3 wedges this morning to overcome that mistake…










Also, I'm pretty sure that extra piece of walnut making the ugly racing stripe is throwing off my bedding plane just slightly, the base is not completely flat due to mistakes during glue up (the outer edges don't reach the work surface from toe to heel), and the pin gets in the way of shavings badly. I kept having to constantly clear the mouth and space beneath the pin…so more practice is certainly needed. 

I won't throw this attempt away, since I got 1.25" wide shavings from a 1.75" wide iron, but hopefully the next prototype will improve! Making a user plane is harder than I thought…


----------



## ShaneA

Save that prototype Terry, I may be in the market for one for the swap.


----------



## donwilwol

Not all is lost Terry. You still got that sweet looking plane hammer sitting close by


----------



## terryR

No way, Shane…we all know you are sandbagging! You probably have a smoother from Tasmanian Blackwood and a Brese iron nearly complete…

Don, I love me little plane hammer! Any guess if it's brass or bronze?


----------



## donwilwol

Brass…..........


----------



## terryR

I think lil plane whackers would make a great tool swap!

What's the 2nd best tool to use if ya don't have a plane hammer? Ball peen hammer? wood mallet?


----------



## donwilwol

I have a couple brass hammers I picked up at flea markets for a couple of bucks. You could make a wooden mallet out of a good hardwood. I wouldn't recommend a ball peen hammer, steel on steel will mushroom it. If you must, tread lightly or better yet, glue a piece of leather or wood to the end.


----------



## 489tad

Mock up of pine. I'll use this to get a shape. Next will be one of oak.


----------



## bondogaposis

I think lil plane whackers would make a great tool swap!

Ya, me too!


----------



## Tugboater78

Next swap, so everyone will have one to whack their new planes!


----------



## terryR

For the record, McMaster-Carr has 3/4" diameter bronze alloy (936), for $26.50 for a 13" long rod. I'm pretty sure I don't have the cahones to attempt drilling through that 3/4" rod with my cheap drill press and lack of machining skills.

IF someone with the tooling were to step up and offer pre-drilled bronze heads for sale to the group, I bet they'd be busy for a while! Unless we skip the plane hammers next time…then someone gets stuck with a lot of extra bronze in their shop. LOL


----------



## terryR

Hey, Shane, I found one I'd love ya to make…for me! LOL










Auburn Tool Co Match Plane…currently for sale BTW from Jim Bode…


----------



## rhett

If you make your plane from ash, you can use your new hammer to "tap that ash".... sorry, low hanging fruit.

Metal is easier than you think to drill, especially if you have a drill press. Use a nailset to mark where the drill bit will cut, this keeps it from skating. Clamp it down, slow down the speed of your drill press, use a sharp drill bit, go slow and keep the cut flooded with lubricant.


----------



## Sylvain

If your iron and wedge sit tight, but your plane is still cutting heavy to one side, then most likely your bed is out of square to your sole.

this site makes the following recommendation:
http://workshop.tjmahaffey.com/planes3.php#planes1_anchor4
•Make sure the iron in a wood bench plane has about 1/16 inch lateral space. You need that to allow lateral adjustment.

Your blade might be askew on purpose.

http://woodworkingbyhand2.blogspot.be/2013/03/badger-plane.html
my comment #91 is valid.

look at the 7th picture here
http://woodworkingbyhand2.blogspot.be/2013/03/a-simple-sharpening-jig.html
Giuliano has drawn a line parallel to the sole

Dave give some advice on correcting wooden plane problems :
http://lumberjocks.com/superdav721/blog/32586

Bob Rozaieski :
http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2010/12/episode-30/
http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2013/02/troubleshooting-wooden-plane-problems/

There is hope
If the plane does not work when just finished, you can probaly fix it.


----------



## Boatman53

Tery you talking about me with those hammer heads? I will be making some more for trade as soon as we get my dads estate settled. I might have at least two unclaimed at the moment.
Jim


----------



## Boatman53

This is how I drilled the hole on center. It worked well. Just incase someone was going to make one.








Ok back to the planes making. I'm still on the fence about participating, good thing there is a long sign up time. I do however like to know who I'm building for so I can personalize it. Still swamped with work too, I should hire someone.
Jim


----------



## terryR

Yes, Jim, you certainly came to mind!  But there are others in this group, too, with machining skills…

I mean, just looking at that vise on your drill press, I can tell you and I are in different leagues. You are certainly in the Majors, while I'm trying out for a local tailgate league.  But, Thanks for posting that photo since it shows a lot. Oh, I think I found your Delta tickets in case you've been looking. LOL


----------



## 489tad

TerryR. On the same line as Jim's set up, I would use a drill bushing in a jig to align. If your drill press spindle runs way out you'll never be able to knock out multiples for the group without it.


----------



## JayT

Early returns are promising.


----------



## Ripthorn

I decided to go a different direction with mine, but not sure which. I've got to get in the shop…Though I did find a 13" bronze rod in 7/8" that just might have to be some hammer heads…


----------



## Tugboater78

I have the pieces of wood cut and planed down to size for my plane.. just haven't had the time to started assembly and chisel/cut/ drill some openings. Been putting in time at our repair barge for some extra cash. Can't pass up on $240/day after taxes and deductions, love the "overtime" money.. I will neglect to mention what I make if I jumped back on a boat on my off time, let's just say they try very hard NOT to let that happen..


----------



## 489tad

Who said a door stop/paper weight can't make shavings. Next will be one of oak that I have.


----------



## jordanp

Nice preview Dan..


----------



## donwilwol

I love to see the progress.


----------



## donwilwol

Duplicate post


----------



## CFrye

@Sylvain-thanks for the references-helpful.
@Boatman53-so simple it's brilliant! 
@489tad-very encouraging!


----------



## LakeLover

Jim. I got a vise like that and attached it to the drill press table.

Got a hunck of metal positioned just right and started drilling. Way cool, the metal is not moving, keep adding cutting oils and nice metal curles are coming out. Ohh so cool what a nice set up. The thought that hole is getting a bit deep. So I take it out and…..... I drilled right thru the lower guide rod in the vise.

SO needless to say I was a bit PO,ed at myself. But the hole was perfectly centerd on the rod. The vise still works.

Dodged the bullet on that one.


----------



## terryR

Goodness gracious, LakeLover, what kind of bit did all that work? Glad to hear your vise is still OK!

On a similar note…yesterday, I rough cut 13 window openings on our new chicken coop with a brand spanking new sawzall blade…forgot about the fiberglass ladder behind one opening…sure thought I was hitting a nail at that tough spot, so gave extra man power to muscle through.

Oooops, muscled throuh the fiberglass top of a fairly new ladder, luckily only about 2/3 of the total width of the ladder's top, so hopefully I can patch it up with resin?????


----------



## donwilwol

Good thing you weren't using a chainsaw Terry.


----------



## LakeLover

Terry an brand new bit, can't think of the name.

Put a new blade in the circ saw. Cutting a hunk of plywood on top of the new wheel barrow. Now my new blade is shot and the front lip of the wheel barrow is missing 3 inches.

If you are going to mess up do it in grand style. Be proud of your mistakes. If you can't laugh at your self sometimes, well how in hell do you get good stories to tell while drinking beer around the campfire.


----------



## jordanp

Prototype seems to work.

Used it as a smoothing plane and as a jack/scrub plane.

And yes my prototype is made out of granadillo, red oak, ash and walnut
Risky yes but using expensive wood I seem to make less mistakes lol.

And yes testing wasn't complete until I had smoothed all four sides of 3 1" x 12" x 4' cedar boards were glass like.


----------



## chrisstef

^ Hey now!


----------



## donwilwol

I like that pile of shavings.


----------



## jordanp

isn't it amazing the wide range of color you get from just cedar? all those shavings came from cedar..


----------



## 489tad

I was cleaning up a piece of the wood I'm using for the swap and I'm getting tear out. So on this practice plane I will try a high angle to see if I can make it and if it will work. 50 degrees???? sounds good to me. I'll try to make a cross beam instead of using a round piece. Mid August, still have time to work out the kinks.

Jordan nice job with the prototype!!


----------



## jordanp

Thanks Dan, lookin good on the progress..

Notes and info on setup
My prototype has a 45 degree bed, bevel down with a 1/4 thick 1.5" half ash blade
I sharpened it literally on the two ridges so right where the blade makes contact and where the start of the bevel both contact the stone/sandpaper at the same time while applying extra pressure on each corner to give it a slight radius..

I'm using a 1/2" walnut dowel Pin that is flattened on one side. Runs through on both sides and is just snug fit no glue.
Seems to be working very well as a block plane/mini jack/smoothing plane depending on blade adjustment..

With that thick blade and square body plane I've been able to use this plane pulling and pushing with grain or against, it has a wide range of possibilities.


----------



## CFrye

That's one pretty prototype Jordan! I wish that bit about making fewer mistakes with expensive woods held true for me :-/
At least I'm learning! That's what this is all about, right? lol


----------



## Sanding2day

Hello all… Getting really excited about this plane as it comes together, will be sad to see go. As stated before this is a first for me so I figure at very least I will provide a beautiful plane *hopefully it works well too*  Plane has a Bubinga sole, followed by Maple, am playing a bit and took a body of Red Oak and Honduran Mahogany which will rest side to face grain providing the height of the plane. Shame that the Maple's face grain will not be visible in final project as it is really nice looking but do have some figured maple which I am intending to use for the sides.

Have an old Army buddy and Masonic Brother who has been getting into metal working, I have asked for him to try his hand at making an iron for this swap. I intend to utilize a backup Veritas iron but was asked to ensure that the below picture was on track.

Not knowing overly much about irons I'm not sure what is essential… Flat back, this is currently at 25 deg bevel with secondary bevel, able to get sharp and hold an edge…

Would appreciate some input on what is required elements of a good iron so that I can let him know or let him know the answers are here…

Was intending to just have a solid iron as I believe this will be adequately thick to make a chip breaker non beneficial *If I understand the purpose of a chip breaker correctly* Do not believe the additional openings will affect the irons performance…

Ok so final question… Obviously further refinement is in the works but if this was the iron you receive would it be a nice touch to have the home crafted iron with some true forge marks or would the tried and true Veritas iron be desired? Thanks for any and all input.


----------



## Sanding2day

Not sure what happened there but the picture cut off… If you grab it you can see the beveled edge presently not shown….


----------



## chrisstef

I really dig that iron and the forging marks but I think the problem would lie with the back of the iron if its not flat. It will want to rock around against the bedding angle and it will chatter, skip, and hop all over creation.


----------



## donwilwol

I'll second what Stef posted and add you want the steel hardened to an RC of about RC62. I know very very little about forging, but make sure it can be hardened.
The next problem I see is the wedge contact on the face. I love the look, but I'm not sure it will function as required.


----------



## Sanding2day

Thank you for the input Smitty/Don… Was aware of the back being flat and the did bring up the hardness factor so should be good there… Have the piece selected for use as a wedge but it is not formed and I am hopeful I will be able to make it work…

Glad to hear that the look is appreciated as I too like the rustic look and believe if it functions as desired will make a nice addition to the straight wooden hand plane. If it doesn't do the job I will revert to the back up and should be in business.

I am also not familiar with the forging process but know he was just looking for confirmation that the general design was good and believe that minus some minor marks leaving it with the constructed look it will be more finished *Just a dry piece of wood at this point* Thanks again for the input I will be sure to remind him about the flat back and the RC62 desired hardness…


----------



## Wolfdaddy

I love this thread! I just wish I had the time to participate.


----------



## donwilwol

we'd be glad to have you wolfdaddy.


----------



## wormil

Dan, don't take this the wrong way but I'm pretty skeptical of that iron as your friend is just starting in metal working and as you posted it, it's unusable. It would look cool as a decoration though.


----------



## Sanding2day

No worries Rick, the posted pic is a work in progress as he wanted clarification as to if he was on the right track. I heard back from him and he is uncertain that he will be able to reach RC62 using the metal he has but was going to do what he could. May very well end up being decoration as you stated but will give it a shot and take it from there. Thanks…


----------



## LakeLover

Sanding. Use it to make the hand hewn look on $$$$ hard wood flooring. PITA to sharpen.


----------



## Sanding2day

Thanks for the idea LL, putting in a nice Walnut floor for the living room has been on my list of things to do next $2K of disposable income I run across. Not sure on the hewn technique which will yield results I'd like for flooring but will take a look at options. Mostly figured I'd shoot for perfectly flat/smooth and let the imperfections come as they will…


----------



## rhett

Prototype Razee smoother, it was only a matter of time before a tote showed up….

Still working on proportions, looks kinda like a tadpole right now. Suggestions are always welcome.


----------



## rhett

Nice looking plane Jordan, happy to see it works as well as it looks.


----------



## donwilwol

I wonder…...Raise the front a bit like a knob. Looking good though.


----------



## JayT

Hmmmmm. I have one that is almost identical to the vintage inspiration piece and it a joy to use. With the low razee tote, it is very natural in the hand and feels great. If you can come up with anything approaching its feel …...

The prototype has some great things going for it, but something seems just a bit off with the proportion or shape-can't quite put my finger on it.


----------



## donwilwol

but something seems just a bit off with the proportion or shape

I get that feeling on almost any open tote all wood plane. I'm never sure why either.


----------



## rhett

I completely agree JayT and DonW, figured this was the best place to post since everyone reading this thread is in the handplane builder frame of mind. Going to try again with a thicker blank, I feel the relative low height of the body is too small for the tote. Personally I dislike closed totes, I have fairly large mitts though.

On a side note, anyone care to guess what the original asking price of the Ohio Tools woodie was? No Google-Fu


----------



## donwilwol

25 cents?


----------



## ShaneA

The tote seems tall, maybe that is what is throwing the look of the prototype. I imagine it needs to be a certain height to be functional, but at current, a little out of balance. Still pretty cool looking though.


----------



## chrisstef

How'd I know that Don would know how much a woody would cost. (raised eyebrow)


----------



## JayT

anyone care to guess what the original asking price of the Ohio Tools woodie was?

I've seen a couple go on ebay. One ended up around $15 and the other was well over $200 IIRC-don't know enough about woodies to understand the price discrepancy. Which was closer to yours?

Edit: Here's mine, also an Ohio Tool Co., I paid $20 for it at an antique shop.


----------



## Mosquito

I would agree, the body looks too short, and that is probably a limitation of the iron being used as well

kinda reminds me of a #164


----------



## rhett

Man Don, within 3 cents. Amazing how devalued the dollar has become…

Next try is going to have a closed tote and taller body. Although, this guy works wonderfully, even if he is a little weird looking.


----------



## donwilwol

I'll confess I've got a few Ohio tools catalog reprints at home.


----------



## JayT

I overpaid for mine!!! If great-great-grandpa would have bought it, I could have saved $19.75


----------



## Mosquito

Jay, I think you're on to something…

"I'm not hoarding tools, I'm just buying them for my great great grandkids. It's cheaper this way, I promise"


----------



## CFrye

How are the totes secured on these razee planes?


----------



## jordanp

I'm actually attempting a scrub/Jack plane of sorts with a Tote. I may actually have to go out and buy some thicker hardwood for the tote..

As far as attaching mine I will probably mortise and tenon the handle with glue and maybe a single screw haven't decided yet.


----------



## donwilwol

*Candy*, most that I have seen are attached the same way as the non-raze.


----------



## rhett

Did a quick pic blog of adding a tote.


----------



## Iguana

Started a plane for the swap last week. Step 1 for me is to make a drawing. Lay out the size, shape, location of the mouth, bed angle, etc. Everything after that is just execution 

The drawing is full scale:









I print out graph paper (from http://incompetech.com/graphpaper/multiwidth/, but many other sites do same kind of thing) with the large squares at 1" and 1/4" and 1/16" divisions. No need for a ruler other than to draw a straight line. (^)

Dressed my stock and glued up my blank. No pics, pretty sure most have seen some wood sitting in clamps 

There was a discussion earlier in this thread about where the mouth should be. Finck's recommendation (p.74 of his book) is for it to be about 4/9ths the distance from the front to the back (he states it as 5/9ths back to front). The rationale for this is to provide good reference surfaces ahead and behind the iron, and to enhance control - when preparing boards for edge joining.

A block plane's purpose, particularly a low-angle block, is not preparing boards for edge joining. It is for trimming pieces, cleaning up end grain, making chamfers and the like. How the plane is held is very different than a bench plane. Commonly, a one-handed grip is used, which means a different balance to the plane.

If you measure a metal (gasp!) block, you'll find the mouth at around 1 1/4" from the front on a 6" to 6 1/2" long sole, which is somewhere around 2/9ths. Coincidentally, this plane has the mouth at 2/9ths. I didn't intentionally copy a metal plane's layout but arrived at the same proportion after considering how the plane would work in the hand.

With one-hand use, a low (20° or 12°) bedding means the iron can lay under the hand and be nicely balanced. The low bedding combined with some kind of adjuster also means a minimum distance between the mouth and the back of the plane. If the front of the plane were to be made so that the 4/9 ratio was expressed, the plane would be imbalanced, not to mention look kind of odd.

While that low bedding isn't practical in a woodie, 37° bedding is. It puts the hand a bit higher than what the lower bed angles would do, but it is still feasible to have it nicely balanced for one hand use while being shaped to protect one's hand from digging on the iron. Harder to achieve with a 45° (or higher) bed, but still doable. But the 4/9ths ratio doesn't work well until you get to higher bed angles. It's just a guideline, throw it out the window when need be.

Anyways, that's how I ended up with the layout as shown. I'll probably tweak it a bit to get some more clearance for fingers in front of the crosspin.

(^) Aside: Can't freehand a straight line to save my life. Can't even trace an existing straight line. Apparently that's an indication that something was missing in my early childhood development. There's some kind of regression therapy I could go through to maybe fix that. Or maybe not. A ruler works just fine and is a whole lot cheaper.


----------



## 489tad

Hey Mark I get that you can't free hand but how ever you drew it it looks good and the proportions look good too.

Ok planemakers I have a question. I'm able to get shavings from a piece of cherry. They are not flowing out of the plane, they are getting bunched up and pushed out. They look like a accordian. I think there is enough clearence. Front angle is at 45 degrees. The wedge end is not interfering. Does anyone have an idea on why this might be happening?









I am looking at Marks drawing of his wedge. It radius's down to the iron. Mine has more of a bull nose. Could be a problem. How is a wooden planes front mouth finished. Square or radius.

Bed for the iron is 50 degrees. With the bevel at 25 and micro at 30 could this cause the chips to bunch?

I'm pleased with the finish of the cherry board.

Thanks.


----------



## JayT

I'm pleased with the finish of the cherry board.

Isn't that the important part? I've gotten shavings like that, too, but as long as the board looks good I don't worry about it.

I think it might also be something to do with going high angle. Here is a photo from the Nice Ash website of rhett's new 50 degree smoother.


----------



## Tugboater78

Not an expert by any means, but i fiddled with Rhetts high angle protype when i visited him a while back. He had the same issue, we gently filed the forward angle a lil bit at a time.,Roughly a 1/4 inch aboVE the mouth until the shavings started ejecting out. I am not sure if he worked it out a bit more but it seems not to be a provlem now though.


----------



## 489tad

Yes I'm pleased with the finish but the shavings are packing below the wedge and not ejecting. I'll try to file the mouth edge and see if there's any difference. Thanks guys.


----------



## jordanp

I had a small prototype 45 degree 1" Nice Ash Blade "Krenov Style" and almost all of the shavings were caught between the Pin and front opening. It turned out to be my placement of the Dowel Pin it was too far forward and too close to the mouth of the plane.

I'm guessing there are multiple things that can cause a similar problem.


----------



## Iguana

Yeah, a fine shaving is 1 or 2 thousandths of inch thick, maybe less. It doesn't take much to hinder its progress and cause it to fold over on itself. A Krenov-style plane has two big thing in the chip ejection path - the lower edge of the wedge and the crosspin - both which can contribute to the tendency to fold. It is purely cosmetic regarding the shavings; the performance of the plane does not suffer unless the shavings bunch up so much that the mouth jams.

Some of my planes do it and some don't. One plane does it when I place my hand over the mouth, and another does it depending on the species of wood and fineness of shaving. It's not a worry if the plane works as intended - the shavings get swept into the garbage at the end of the day.


----------



## rhett

Get a really soft piece of straight grain wood, set the plane to take a very light pass and then push slow across the board, maybe 2 or 3 inches. Watch how the shaving STARTS to come out. You will see where it's binding. If its bacon before hitting anything, your mouth is catching somewhere.

Keep in mind that the only plane that NEEDS a tight mouth is a smoother. Any other can have a fairly open ejection path.

Strictly for research purposes, I cut a mouth with 1/2" opening in front of the blade. Sharp blade and straight wood yielded no tear out,even at 45 degrees.

Be Good
Rhett


----------



## 489tad

Thanks again for more information. I still have no been back in the shop. I'll try on Tuesday night.


----------



## bobasaurus

I've been designing my plane. I want to make a small smoother with an adjustable mouth, so I came up with a fairly simple mechanism:










This is the guts of the plane, without the cheeks (and with the blade's outline drawn in). The filled portion of the toe will be able to slide between the cheeks. A block over it will be fixed to the cheeks and have a slot to allow the sliding (might make this part out of brass). A 1/4-20 bolt attached to a knob (not shown yet) will secure it at any position, sort of like the veritas mouth adjusters.

I have the blade bedded at 50 degrees, and the toe section at 62 degrees… I know it's a bit high from Don's other plane knowledge thread, but it allows enough room for my mouth adjustment slot. I'll try to finish up the plans today and start building this sucker tomorrow.

I'm kind of worried about the rigidity of the sliding section, as normally it's glued to the cheeks for extra support. Maybe I can make this whole block out of brass (I could decrease its thickness easily, too), or have an inlay to improve strength.


----------



## Iguana

Couple suggestions on the adjustable mouth:

1 - Use a wide tongue/groove on both sides of the adjustable front to ensure alignment and provide some mechanical strength. Grooves in the side of the adjustable portion, tongues on the insides of the cheeks. Extra points for using sliding dovetails 

2 - Don't use a fixed toe piece at the very front, make the sliding portion extend the whole way - wasier to construct, no gap in the sole, and you can slope the toe section a bit more.

3 - Orient the bolt that holds the toe in place horizontally, through the center of the aforementioned tongue/groove area. Locks the toe piece from both sides for rigidity. You could even recess the head of the bolt and the nut on the other side.


----------



## bobasaurus

Mark, those are good suggestions. I'll get rid of the fixed front piece. I thought about doing grooves or sliding dovetails, though getting the alignment perfect is daunting… maybe I'll give it a try.


----------



## bobasaurus

Okay, here's another revision:










I made the sliding toe smaller so that the glued portion is larger, leaving less un-supported cheek material. The toe's angle is now 55 degrees. I haven't decided weather to use tongue and grooves on the sides of the sliding toe… it would be good to restrict wood movement/warping but tricky to make. I would have to make the sliding part wider, rabet the bottom, and cut stopped dados into the cheeks (all of this very exactly). For some reason I like having the screw on the top over the sides, so I'll probably keep with that design. If it's a tight enough fit, racking won't be a problem, but then wood movement comes back into play. So many considerations.


----------



## donwilwol

did you see this one I recently built. Similar design.


----------



## bobasaurus

Don, I forgot about that plane of yours. It's a great reference, thanks for linking it. I'll read through your blog and see if I can pick up any good pointers. How do you like the performance? Is there anything you would change on it?


----------



## Sanding2day

Well back from my mini vacation and had a new Hock blade in the mail waiting for me… First time that I have purchased one and it came with sharpening instructions and know that it says that it needs to be honed before use but I am curious…

Was just curious so took it to my arm and low and behold another bald spot… Without scraping it, I would say that the back is flat… ? Is there another reason that I should concern myself with attempting to sharpen it further… I'm honestly concerned that I might make it worse… Thanks…

For those that recall I was having a buddy work on an iron but he was not satisfied with the one that he had worked up, hence the Hock order. He has a tool forging class this semester which should provide the right steel and know how for the job.


----------



## donwilwol

@bobasauros, I've only had time to play with it. About the only thing I would do different is maybe make it shorter. The second one is almost finished. It works well to, although I question the need for an adjustable mouth on a 60 degree plane.

@Dan, the proof is in the performance. If it works, no need for further adjustment.


----------



## DonBroussard

Thanks to all for sharing information and experiences about making a hand plane. I'm starting to get a bit nervous. About six weeks left until swap day, and all I have to show is one prototype. Gotta get a move on . . .


----------



## terryR

+1 to DonB. I haven't had the time I wanted to make a sweet plane for the swap…only a sorry prototype thus far.Gonna change that in the coming weeks…

How many folks have completed their gift already?


----------



## ShaneA

I think I will start in the next week or two, maybe? No need to rush right out there.


----------



## Sanding2day

Sounds good DonW, just wanted to confirm… Hope to get some time to finish it up and see soon…


----------



## JayT

I finished about a week ago.

It was very helpful having all the advice posted from people that have done this before, such as DonW, rhett, Derek and Mark Kornell. Made the whole process much easier. I'm not going to threaten to put rhett out of business, but will not be afraid to build another in the future. (Actually, I've got one planned to start next week)


----------



## donwilwol

So far there are 3 or 4 that have sent finish pictures, but probably 4 or 5 have dropped out. I need to get thing updated, maybe later tonight.


----------



## Iguana

@bobasaurus:

(My autocorrect wants to change bobasaurus to "nondairy". My autocorrect also doesn't recognize "autocorrect"...)

Your tongue/groove orientation is backwards. You want the tongue on the cheek, so the cheek doesn't get too thin. The groove can be cut into the toe piece as there's plenty of material there. And if I were building it, I'd cut the tongues and grooves to go the entire length of the plane, not just the toe. Way easier then just having it on the toe and if you're concerned about the extra tongue material protruding into the open area, it is fairly easy to remove just that portion.


----------



## jordanp

I actually pulled off a block plane 1" blade @ 34 degrees bevel down, after i assembled it i notice the ramp was a little out of square but I think I have it all fixed now. it seems to work pretty good now.


----------



## Tugboater78

I have pieces cut for my plane but not glued together, not even sure I will use the pieces I cut though… After I get home I will be having to do something quick..


----------



## Mosquito

I too have pieces cut, but not glued. Another project took priority, but that's gone now so should be back to business as usual.


----------



## bobasaurus

I rough cut, dimensioned, and glued the blank for the central parts of my plane yesterday. I did most of the flattening and squaring with hand planes, too  . I have two piece of hard maple laminated to make the width, and a 1/4" jatoba sole glued to the bottom. I'll re-square the block tonight and try cutting out the angled sections.


----------



## SRRieman

Anyone know if we can make two planes? Mine are the same…I was going to make 2 just in case I screwed one up, ending up making 3 of the same. One I'll keep. Was hoping I could get two different ones in return…


----------



## 489tad

Yes you can make two. My first test plane needed some work so I'm trying again before I cut into the "finish" one. There should be one of the three I can send. If it all goes in the [email protected] I'll put together a kit and send that.


----------



## ShaneA

Dan, I think he meant can he send one to two different people, and get one from two different. I could be wrong though. Stranger things have happened. Suppose that is Don's call.


----------



## donwilwol

I don't see a problem with "send two, get two" but would like to hear any objections.


----------



## 489tad

ShaneA your are correct! When I skim read…..blank happens. I have no objections to make two receive two.


----------



## wormil

You have to match 'em up Don; I'd say it's up to you.  I have no objections.


----------



## Tugboater78

No problems with that here, I will be lucky to finish one though I plan on making one for myself too..


----------



## Ripthorn

I'm okay with send and receive multiple, but like Justin, I will be lucky to get 1 done. Other stuff has had a way of cropping up, but we'll see if I can manage one.


----------



## DaddyZ

OK with 242 Trade, I will be lucky to even get started on one though

Hot in Shop, Kid returning to college, Death of Uncle, etc been a busy few months so far…


----------



## CFrye

I'm OK with trading multiples. Sorry for your loss DaddyZ.


----------



## SRRieman

The one's I'm making are simple planes, I wouldn't expect anymore in return. And another question…this is the first swap I've been involved with but I did catch on to the mallet one and the marking gauge one after all the project posts.

any one interested on voting for the next swap? Big thumbs up to DonW by the way for putting these together, awesome dude.


----------



## wormil

We should probably get this one done before worrying about the next one but I share the enthusiasm.


----------



## Gatorjim

I am sitting on the side lines for this one. It's just to hot to go to the shop (just cant handle the heat any more). Just found out we have two grand baby's coming in April. One is one of my son's 2nd the other is another son's first. When we found out about the first one I said cool I want to make them a cradle then a week later the second one say guess what. So now I need to make 2. Now I just need the heat to drop below 90 and stay there. Sure wish I could afford to put ac out there.


----------



## CFrye

jeffswildwood suggested a box swap here. Other suggestions have been a plane hammer and spoke shave. Some were in favor of including the spoke shave in this swap, others not.


----------



## CFrye

Congrats on the new/future arrivals Jim! A/C in the shop would be heavenly.


----------



## bobasaurus

I've been working on my plane during the last couple weekends. Not sure the rules about posting progress pictures in this thread… if it's bothersome let me know and I'll move them. Here's the progress so far:









Using the #8c to prep some hard maple.









More planing of the maple body.









Gluing up the maple body.









Cutting out a 1/4" jatoba sole on the bandsaw.









Gluing on the sole.









Cut a 50 degree bed on the heel, and a 55 degree clearance on the toe.









I cut some more jatoba for the cheeks. Here I'm using a neat little edging plane to square the edges.









Cut the toe in half on the bandsaw to make the adjustable mouth section. I drilled/chiseled a slot in the upper portion to allow the sliding action.









The finished slot.


----------



## DanKrager

bobasaurus, it's bothersome alright…bothersome that I'm not the one doing it! Looks like that is going to be one fine plane!
DanK


----------



## Sanding2day

Well after 20+ hours I have finally completed the swap plane  Just in time if things go well I will be picking up a 2nd job here this week… *fingers crossed* Hate to miss out on the shop time but the finances are in desperate need… Wont post finished pic in accordance with the directions but I personally enjoy seeing the works in progress so thanks for sharing Bobasaurus.

Instead I'll share the bonus plane which was made to make use of the pretty woods cut from the actual. Honduran Mahogany, Red Oak, Hard Maple, and Bubinga. Cut a 1/8" slit for a razor blade to rest into, inserted a 1/4" sleeve with flat screw to lock in place.

Makes a convenient holder to utilize a razor for smoothing a surface…










Guess you get to see the wedge as well


----------



## CFrye

Looking good bobasaurus! Question: the upper portion slides? 
Nice bonus Dan.
I finally got the index pins placed. I probably made that much harder than it needed to be. Next is the wedge pin placement. If I am going to use a pin that goes all the way through both cheeks (without a shoulder) can that be done after the glue up?


----------



## bobasaurus

Candy, the upper portion will be glued in place. The lower portion will slide… it will have a threaded insert with a threaded rod sticking up, and the upper portion's slot will allow that bolt to move forward and back. I'll turn a knob for the top to tighten on the rod.


----------



## CFrye

Got it. I didn't think I was reading that right. Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## donwilwol

Good progress everyone. Time is growing short.


----------



## RPhillips

I have mine almost complete, still need to purchase a drill press so I can complete it. Hopefully I'll have on in less than 2 weeks…trying to hold out for a CL find, but we all know how that can go.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Done. I'll be sending pics in a few minutes Don.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Don wanted us to send pictures to him via PM. Does anyone know how to embed a picture in a PM? I have never done it before and can't figure it out.


----------



## mds2

I should have one finished tonight. I got a nice workout honing that Nice Ash iron yesterday.


----------



## terryR

I think Don has another email set up for finished plane photos…see the header on this page…


----------



## Hammerthumb

Thanks Terry. I'm not the best at following directions.


----------



## terryR

No worries, Paul.

Wow, since you are in Las Vegas, I assume the summer's heat is about the same as Alabama. Don't see how you guys can get in so much shop time during the summer! Unless you have A/C. LOL


----------



## Hammerthumb

It was real hot in the end of June. 115deg+. Cooled off a little mid July when monsoon season starts. We had record rainfall in August. Rain from 3am til noon yesterday so I played golf. I dont hink it got to 90degrees yesterday. Its hard during monsoon season as the days will start out hot and then get to 105deg, and then it will rain in the afternoon and evening. I put AC in my shop a few years ago and that helps. I turn it on Friday night so I can work over the weekend and then shut it off Sunday evening.


----------



## Tugboater78

I am gonna have to come ahead on my plane making when I get home Wednesday. Work is begging for people to come back, its a rare thing, and passing up $275 a day is hard to do. Gonna have to see what I can get done over the weekend cause I will go back on Monday and put in a few days at least.


----------



## mochoa

Today is September 10th, that means we have 30 days to get these planes done! Time to get serious…


----------



## terryR

a little motivation, perhaps…










a French try plane from 1834, from Garrett Hack's The Handplane Book


----------



## Tugboater78

Less than 21 for me cause I "procrastinate"


----------



## CFrye

Any dimensions on that terryR? 
+10 on that Tugboater78!!


----------



## donwilwol

*Remember I need your address with the finished plane pictures. *

Email address is in the OP, *[email protected]*. And Remember I need your address with the finished plane pictures.

Terry, that might be intimidation, not motivation!


----------



## terryR

Terry, that might be intimidation, not motivation!

LOL!

Sorry, Candy, no dimensions were given in the text. Judging by the size of the tote, I'd guess 18+", though. Definately one of a kind…


----------



## Mosquito

I wasn't thinking it was that large, I thought it was a miniature, comparing to the grain on the pieces it's sitting on


----------



## CFrye

My thinking as well, Mos. Of course, I am in that frame of mind…


----------



## donwilwol

Kind of like Candy land

;-)


----------



## terryR

Youz guys could be right…I never noticed the wood in the background behind that plane. Makes it look much smaller than I originally thought!

Sure wish I had the skills to duplicate it, in a larger size, for the swap. I'd have to buy a CNC tool.


----------



## jordanp

Really nice work Bob….

"Throws current plane in scrap bin, Looks around the shop for another block of wood to make smaller"


----------



## jordanp

Terry that thing looks like what Zeus would use in some mythology story to joint to worlds together.. simply epic


----------



## bobasaurus

Okay, some more progress on the plane:









I put a threaded insert and rod into the lower toe, and it now slides in the upper toe's slot nicely. The nut and washer are temporary… I'll make a knob soon.









Setting up the glue-up. I masked every inside area I could to reduce cleanup from glue squeeze out. The plate glass helped keep the sole and cheeks flat/flush while setting up the clamps.









Lots of clamps while gluing this thing together.









Using the lapping plate to flatten the "back" of the blade… ends up I was sort of doing the wrong side (I wanted to flatten the side that rests against the bed). At least it's good to have this side flat for sharpening, so I didn't waste my time.


----------



## CFrye

Hmmm that last picture (scenario) looks familiar…so I didn't waste my time either!


----------



## BTimmons

*Finally* started on my plane for the swap last night! It's going to be a jack ~14 inches long. Red oak for the body and cherry for the tote. Thinking of doing a razee style plane. Always liked the look of those. This one that Derek Cohen did is just so damn pretty.

Having never made a single plane before, I can't help but feel that I'm biting off more than I can chew. But like my buddy Mark Twain once said, "A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way."


----------



## mochoa

Boba that thing is going to be sweet! I might have to put an adjustable mouth plane as my "ask for" plane.

Brian, I think a Jack plane is a great first plane to make, not as finicky as a smoother, the mouth can be a little wider and what not.


----------



## Sanding2day

Coming along nicely Bob… Looks like a good choice Brian… So excited


----------



## JayT

Having never made a single plane before, I can't help but feel that I'm biting off more than I can chew.

(In the best Cajun accent possible) You can do it.

Took a prototype to learn some lessons, but I am now happily using a double of my plane for the swap and am amazed at how well it works. Construction was much easier than I had anticipated and there is now another plane in clamps on my bench, just because I now realize they can be built fairly easily with my feeble skills and there is a lot of satisfaction in using a tool made with your own hands.

Plane building counter quote "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself"


----------



## BTimmons

"Brian, I think a Jack plane is a great first plane to make, not as finicky as a smoother, the mouth can be a little wider and what not."

Exactly my reasoning. Tolerances don't need to be as precise, so it seems like a good warm up act should I decide to do more. And let's face it, I probably will.


----------



## bobasaurus

I worked on my plane a bit more this evening (with rain pouring non-stop on my garage roof):









After the glue-up, I trimmed the excess wood and planed all sides flat and fairly square (final planing will happen later).









The sole with the sliding toe in place. It seems to stay flush as it slides, so my glue-up was successful.









Turning a walnut knob on the lathe, including drilling a hole for the threaded insert.









The knob on the plane. I can loosen it to adjust the toe/mouth, then tighten it again to lock the setting. I'll have to see how it feels in use when the plane is finished.

Next step: drilling and inserting the cross pin. Any advise on the cross pin placement/location? I'm planning on using a 1/4" brass rod.


----------



## Sanding2day

Love the design for an adjustable mouth… Very cool… I am not the person to field your question about the pin but will provide the *with a grain of salt* response just the same by saying that it should be safe to throw in about a 1/2" down and far enough away from the iron bed to accommodate your selected iron/chip breaker if utilized and wedge. My belief is that forming the wedge to fit the plane is really the crucial part…

Will state that having already glued up is a much better method then the method I performed in order to attain a three piece pin with matching end grain and contrasting center… Was certain everything was lined up but… Ended up with a decent cant which required follow up rasping due to gluing up pin along with sides….


----------



## lateralus819

Someone posted earlier in the thread a jig u can make to position it.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

CFrye- Jumping way back, very happy with the glu-bot. I go though a couple of gallons of wood glue a year. That little thing is definitely worth the $6 I paid for it.


----------



## bondogaposis

Progress!


----------



## Mosquito

I can't see it, the shavings are in the way!

Oh, I get it…...


----------



## bobasaurus

It rained so much today that work was closed… more time to work on the plane! It's like rainpocalypse in Colorado right now.









I drilled holes for the 1/4" brass cross pin then peened the ends to rivet it in place. The sticky notes reduce dents from missed hammer blows.









I filed and sanded the cross pin flush. Looking like a plane now.









Rough-cutting the wedge out of some mystery wood (it's dense and neat-looking).









The wedge with the plane.









First shavings! After I got the wedge tuned and the surfaces roughed-up for friction, the shavings came out thin and uniform. I'm very pleased with the usability… it cut through this jatoba like butter. The adjustable toe held its setting without issue, and the knob is comfortable to use.









Rounding the ends for grip and aesthetics.

At this point the plane is nearly complete, so I'll stop posting pics until the exchange deadline. I've been having a blast making this thing. I'll have to make a second one for myself someday.


----------



## donwilwol

My first glance at the picture with the wedge sitting on top I thought it was a tote type knob add on. I thought it would be pretty cool. Nice job.


----------



## bobasaurus

Don, a question about finishing: do you leave the bed and wedge bare to keep the high-friction? What about the sole? I was thinking of using either a BLO or tung oil finish.


----------



## donwilwol

I leave the bed and the back of the wedge. Try to stay away from the lower part of the wedge that contacts the bar, but don't go nuts about it. I always coat the sole. When its dry, wax it.


----------



## CFrye

bobasaurus, your plane looks great!
Red, thanks for the update on the Glu-Bot. Since I couldn't find it locally I bought a generic ketchup bottle with a cap. I was concerned I would have to open it up more than it was. Didn't need to. So far it's working fine. Glu-Bot is still on the wish list but not something I'll buy myself.
Bondo, that shavings picture is worthy of hanging on the wall!
Today I measured and drilled the wedge pin. I think I had marked where the edge went and drilled the center of the pin there. Also, I forgot to allow for the sleeve I was going to cover it with. Had to move the back of the plane body and re-drill the index pins. The thing is finally glued up and clamped. I forgot to re-tape one of the cheeks. I'll have that to clean up. I AM learning!! LOL


----------



## bobasaurus

I completed the plane today. Currently have one coat of BLO, with the bed and cross pin masked off, as per Don's advise. I'm leaving the wedge unfinished. I'm thinking of switching to a waterlox top coat to build the finish better, though maybe BLO is better to avoid a film coat.


----------



## DonBroussard

Made progress today on the swap plane. It's in the clamps now. I'll probably pull the clamps off later this evening and start making it prettier. I also need to spend some quality time with the iron.

I am learning more and more on the swaps. Thanks, DonW, for managing this hand plane swap.


----------



## mochoa

I just finished the prototype, here is what it does!


----------



## Mosquito

got mine glued up and mostly done, but I'm having issues with chatter. Going to have to try to mess with the bedding on it, and see if I can get that to stop. Otherwise I'm not sure what I'm going to do…


----------



## bondogaposis

Finished mine up today. I must say the tuning process was quite tedious. Happy to have her done though.


----------



## DanKrager

Bondo, you gonna set a photo op precedent again, this time with a plane?
DanK


----------



## grfrazee

Finished mine yesterday afternoon. It's a Krenov-style smoother with a pretty hefty blade. It was surprisingly simple to make, having never done one before. I pretty much followed David Finck's book from what I remember reading ~6 months ago.

Getting the iron set right, now that was a chore. I've never had to set a wooden plane's iron to take shavings, so there was a bit of a learning curve there. Once I got it though, man, did it take some sweet shavings.

Don, I'll have to send you pics tonight after work. Can't wait to send this baby out.


----------



## Ripthorn

Made the first shavings with mine tonight. Light and fluffy. Now I just have to shape and apply some finish. I about made my hands bleed because I couldn't put it down and the sharp corners dug into my hand.


----------



## mochoa

So whatcha making there Rip?


----------



## Ripthorn

Well, it's not an infill because the rules state a wooden bodied plane. And house projects got me a little behind the 8 ball concerning what I wanted to make, so we did a nice smoother. The details, however, are top secret .


----------



## donwilwol

Sorry everyone, I'm a bit behind. I hope to start match ups next week sometime.


----------



## Ripthorn

I got mine shaped and got a first coat of finish on. It takes lovely shavings. Honestly, I am excited to be about done with this.


----------



## Tugboater78

Got mine together and made some see through shavings, then proceeded to shape it. really only thing left, cut wedge down then throw some finish on. Then decided I was gonna make another, so it is currently in lineup different woods, when it is done guess I will decide which will be sent off. I got 2 blades from Rhett cause I figured I'd make 2 anyway.

Edit: learning how to adjust a wooden plane is interesting..this is the first I've ever messed with.


----------



## CFrye

Interesting is one word for it Justin. At this point in time I call it frustrating. I keep getting either dust or thick shavings from one side. I'm reviewing Finck's book. Well, I wish it was a book. It's a pdf on my computer. A book I could easily take to the shop. I'm trying, and so is this plane.


----------



## Tugboater78

I had a little practice when I visited Rhett at NiceAshPlanes some time back, mainly just watched him work them. Took me over an hour but I finally got some see through shavings just shy of full width on my block of knotty/curly cherry. Once I got those I knew I had it workable, so started shaping. Sharp corners were hurting my hand.

50°angle on it..


----------



## LukieB

Just finished my plane!! Want to share pictures so bad…. what the rule on shavings pictures that's allowed right??

Started with some nice soft Fir to get it dialed in, then some cherry and some walnut



















Worked so good I tried some curly maple…










Before I knew it, I had quite the rainbow.










Some QS white oak, wenge, and rosewood pieces were also needlessly sliced away at just cause I could.

This NiceAsh blade is the dog's bollocks….me likey


----------



## bobasaurus

Excellent shavings, Lucas. Curly maple is the ultimate test for a sharp blade and finely-tuned plane.


----------



## bobasaurus

With my plane done, I decided to also make a plane hammer to send as a bonus.









I started with a 3/4" brass rod and milled a 7/16×3/4" slot. I then turned some chamfers and grooves to be fancy and sanded it a bit.









I cut out a jatoba handle from scraps of the plane body. Here I'm chiseling out the shoulder line of the tenon.









Wedged in the head, sanded it flush, and put on a coat of BLO.

You guys have given me the tool making bug. Now I'm itching to make more.


----------



## LukieB

Thanks Bob

Itching to make more? Well you can make me one of those sweet mallets ; ) That thing looks awesome.
Looks like exactly what I was wishing I had a couple hours ago when trying to get that thing set


----------



## bobasaurus

Thanks Lucas. The funny thing is I don't even have one of these… I have to make another one for myself now. I was using a small hammer with wood taped to the front for adjusting my plane  .


----------



## CFrye

Beautiful shaving rainbow there Lucas. Sweet little hammer Bob.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I call swapping with Bob….snicker.


----------



## DaddyZ

Nice Tapper there Bob !!!


----------



## RPhillips

Dang it, *Red* beat me to it!

*Bob*, Any chance you'd like to sell me two of those brass heads? I would love to have one and to be able to include one with my plane as well.


----------



## RPhillips

*Lukie*, nice shavings!


----------



## DanKrager

So, Candy, your plane is a "try" plane?  Can't wait to see it.
DanK


----------



## bobasaurus

I'm glad you guys like the hammer. Rob, I don't really want to sell heads but they're not too hard to make if you can clamp the bar to your drill press table… drill two holes and file between them to make a slot. Unfortunately my press kept grabbing the brass (I had a poor clamping setup), at one point whipping around and smacking my thumb good, giving me quite the bruise. I eventually gave up and and used the old bridgeport mill in the machine shop at work. But I think it's possible with the right drill press setup.

You can get the bar from any hardware website… mine's from this guy on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-C360-BRASS-SOLID-ROUND-ROD-12-long-New-Lathe-Bar-Stock-750-1-2-Hard-/350826785759?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51aee7ebdf

I cut it with a 1/16" metal cutoff disk in my cheap harbor freight angle grinder. Worked like a charm. You can turn brass with a wood lathe for chamfering, etc.


----------



## wormil

Nothing plain about that hammer Bob!


----------



## CFrye

Dan, it's technically not long enough for a true try plane, but it sure is trying my patience. I am seeking out some local assistance to determine if the problem(s?) is the plane, or the planer. I haven't actually tried it out as a balloon anchor, however, I am certain I have achieved THAT at least!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Amazed that brass rod is $16…..with free shipping!


----------



## LakeLover

I have ordered some irons from a Canuck suppler and they are not showing up. Really gets my goat.

Will have to go to plan B.

Don how is matching the list coming?


----------



## waho6o9

"irons from a Canuck supplier"

Forget them and support your fellow LJers:
http://www.niceashplanes.com/

Rhett has some irons.

Others may have some irons too.


----------



## LakeLover

I asked Rhett about the irons. Shipping to Canada will over double the price. Free trade my ass.

And for a shoulder plane, a tad large. But I do admit it is a deal, and a good thing to offer for the LJ community.

Today I will be scouring the shop for a nice peice of metal and have at it. My real job is rained out for a couple days and pouring footing in a mud hole is not my idea of fun.


----------



## waho6o9

Have fun in the shop.

Maybe Lee Valley if you can't find some metal in the shop?

1-800-267-8767 Canada


----------



## donwilwol

I've started matching up the names, and some of you have received and address if you've finished. If you sent a picture and haven't received and email, don't be alarmed, especially if you requested a certain type of plane.

Matching them up is harder than I anticipated, so I apologize ahead of time for the ensuing fiasco. That along with work being a problem at the most inopportune time, but we all know how that goes. We'll work it all out in the end.


----------



## Ripthorn

Don, hope to have pictures to you by tomorrow. Thanks for taking point on this!


----------



## WayneC

Damn you Wahoo, I have wanted the little #F planes since they came out.


----------



## DaddyZ

Don

Mine is going to be a block sized one, when I get the time to finish it. No pictures yet though


----------



## waho6o9

Detail Rabbet Plane, 1/4" 
05P75.03 
$69.00 + shipping

They look comfortable as heck Wayne, I wouldn't mind having the set
at 170.00 + shipping.


----------



## donwilwol

So I've been sending addresses as I match them up. The question is, do you guys think the planes can be sent now? Or should they wait until its closer to the deadline.

My vote is if they are finished, go ahead and send them. The recipient has already finished his as well, although he would be sending it elsewhere.

*Edit, we just won't post pictures until Oct 20th.*


----------



## Ripthorn

I say that we should send early and open early, it's not like it's Christmas or anything. Then again, I'm just excited to see what comes.


----------



## ShaneA

We have till Oct 15th to send pics, right? You dang overachievers. I just ordered parts a day or two ago. No need to rush right out there…: )


----------



## JayT

Send now. Before the swap plane gets buried in my shop and I can't find it


----------



## Hammerthumb

I agree with JayT. I have had to move the plane aroung my shop a few times as I have done some rearranging. Lost the blade at one time and finally found it wrapped up in my tool chest. Besides, I used the one I made to flatten my bench as a trial run. Thing works so well that I was temped to keep it. Luckily I started another one at the same time. Need to finish that someday.

Bob is right about drilling the brass on a drill press. I used forstner bits for the one I made, as well as the brass rod guide I made for the marking tool swap. Works well at slow speeds as long as it is clamped properly. Take your time and keep it lubed with oil. I dont think I would try it with a regular drill bit. Too much grab.


----------



## bobasaurus

Forstners are a good idea for the brass, Paul. The twist bits were grabbing and binding like crazy even at low speeds. What is your brass rod guide like? Sounds useful.


----------



## bondogaposis

I'm wrapping mine to ship today. I need to get it off my table saw before it gets pushed onto the concrete floor.


----------



## Hammerthumb

It was the marking gauge I made for Rick M in the marking tool swap. 1" OD brass rod that was drilled lengthwise thru the center at 1/2" dia for a brass rod to slide through. You can find it in my projects. Drilled it through about a 2-1/2" length. That took a while.


----------



## DaddyZ

Send when ready is my vote


----------



## mochoa

I say send when ready but hold he reveal until the end date, that way we can flood the projects page all at once with all those sweet shop made planes.


----------



## JayT

To drill through a brass cylinder, here is what I did. Took a block of 2×4, cut it to the length of brass I was going to use, then drilled a hole lengthwise the same diameter as the brass rod. Drilled another hole perpendicular to the first where I wanted the hole through the brass. Insert the brass rod, clamp down the block and used a regular twist bit in the drill press with the perpendicular hole as a guide. No worries about holding it, the bit grabbing or anything else. Worked like a charm. I stole the idea from somewhere, but don't remember where or I'd give them credit.










The block can also be used to safely trim the brass to length on a table or miter saw.


----------



## LakeLover

Amazing day. Found an old Iron. Cut and shaped but not honed. Wood blocks in clamps. Hopefully rough out later this day.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Great idea JayT. I'll have to try that method.


----------



## terryR

Shane, I'm waiting till YOU start…

Hey, maybe we can swap? LOL


----------



## fatandy2003

A while back, Shop Notes ran a project using wood to make a lever cap. So, I figured I'd give it a go and see what happened.









So far, so good…









Just a bit more shaping and a test run. Hoping it doesn't snap when i put it through its paces… then it is back to square 1.


----------



## bobasaurus

That's a neat lever cap. Never seen one made from wood before.


----------



## Sanding2day

Nice lever cap Andy… Got the plane sent out this morning with an expected arrival of Saturday the 28th… Whats next?


----------



## JayT

Mine went out today with expected delivery for Friday. Hope the recipient isn't too disappointed.


----------



## mds2

I plan on dropping mine in the mail tomorrow.


----------



## Tugboater78

Just got back home, bout to send pics to Don to find out the poor soul who gets mine, after I rehone the blade. My lack of practice at adjusting a wood plane has me worried. I did get gassamer shavings at one point, on figured cherry so I think it works?!


----------



## Ripthorn

Mine is done, just need pics to Don. Got the wax on it tonight and it is beautiful (if you ask me).


----------



## DonBroussard

A little practice on a piece of scrap before stamping the real plane body. I tried just using a pencil line, but I'm going to clamp a straightedge to align the stamps. I expected to have a few double stamps but there was no rebound issue at all. My stamp set is 1/4" and I'm thinking that's way too large. I'll try to swap these out for the 1/8" set.


----------



## Sanding2day

Know the feeling well Justin… Was happy to get the plane sent out as the more I looked at it the more critical I became and more issues I was compelled to increase… Did get decent shavings but provided plenty of character hitting the back with a hammer  Really hope that it is well received and serves its new owner well!!

Looking good there Don… Was disappointed to see that my stamp set did not include numbers… Will have to look into finding that…


----------



## DonBroussard

Dan-Thanks. It was a HF set-I think I paid about $13 for this set and the 1/8" set was about $9, IIRC.


----------



## bobasaurus

Don, those stamps look slick. I wonder if you could stamp the wood, sand it flush, and steam to raise the compressed grain and get proud letters. The straightedge alignment idea is a good one. I just used my usual wood brand on the plane body, but I did something fancy for the blade:










I did this by electrolytic etching the steel from an ironed-on toner design printed off my laser printer. I just etch with a old computer monitor power supply and some salt water… it works great. I've been using this to mark my knives too.


----------



## Tugboater78

I almost forgot I need to put a stamp of sorts on my plane. Allen that's a cool etching.


----------



## Sanding2day

Actually ran across a Harbor Freight store in Springfield, IL where I frequent for business trips… Didn't get a chance to stop in but will certainly do so when able… Some inexpensive tools are of great value often enough…

Very slick Allen… AFJ?


----------



## Mosquito

Allen, that is very cool


----------



## CFrye

Don, those stamps look a whole lot better than the wood burning I was planning. 
Allen, Wow!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

We have to brand/mark it?? I have a brand….but I didn't have the heart to "make my mark" on it. I'm weird.

I'm still waitin' to see which sucker gets my clunker anyway


----------



## donwilwol

From a set of Harbor Freight stamps.


----------



## bondogaposis

I shipped mine.


----------



## donwilwol

I didn't ask for the LJ name to be included in the email, so some won't know who they are getting the plane from. Make sure you let the recipient know your LJ name if its not obvious when you ship it. I'm sure most of you will anyhow, but thought I'd mention it.


----------



## Mosquito

Dang it… now I need to stamp mine…


----------



## donwilwol

*bobasaurus* is the process you used for the iron documented somewhere? That's pretty cool.


----------



## DonBroussard

@bobasaurus-That etching on the iron is WAY cool!


----------



## GMatheson

That etching is very impressive Bobasaurus.

I finally started on my swapper today. Glued up a little maple and flattened a piece of walnut.

Just a little teaser. Gotta get back to work now. Deadline isn't too far away.


----------



## bobasaurus

Don, the etching process I use is similar to this:

http://mordent.com/etch-howto/

You need a laser printer, shiny photo paper, clothes iron, a power supply (any DC wall wart above maybe 2 amps will work), salt water, cloth or cotton, a chunk of steel to use as a probe, and some wire to hook it up. Print out the negative inverse of your design on a laser printer to the shiny paper, iron it onto the steel to be etched (press hard with the edge of the iron to burnish the toner onto the metal between heatings), and clean off the paper carefully in some cold water. Now mask off the rest of your piece to be etched (I use paste wax to stop water contact/conduction, then wrap with electrical tape), leaving one area to attach the power supply. Attach your steel probe to the negative side of the power supply, and your piece to the positive side. Wrap some cotton or cloth around the probe, dunk in salt water, and lightly touch it to your design to start etching. At 12v 3 amps, it takes about 30 seconds to do a good etch with my setup. My previous setup only had about 1 amp and it took several minutes for a good etch. The toner can be hard to remove with solvents, so I typically sand it off.

I find that salt water leaves non-uniform black areas in the etch, so I do the following to even it out: leave apple cider vinegar pooled on the etched area for an hour or two, clean it off, and buff it smooth with a 6" spiral-sewn cloth wheel loaded with fine compound. Alternatively, you could try a different electrolyte solution… I just bought some ferrous sulfate to use next time (really cheap to get online).


----------



## Timbo

@bobasaurus, Thanks for the etching link, good info! I will be reading, re-reading and giving it a try.


----------



## rhett

The wooden lever cap sounds good in theory but I've found them prone to breaking under tension.

That engraving looks awesome Bob, something I need to look into…


----------



## bobasaurus

Thanks rhett. A few companies will make multi-use stencils/resists for more production etching, if you'd want to mark your blades.


----------



## fatandy2003

rhett,

That is what I am worried about with the wood lever cap, but I thought if I laminated 2 different grained woods together it would add strength. If not, it is not the end of the world; I have other options jostling around in the noggin. Either you all will see my final product with the wood lever cap, or I will post the epic failure so everyone can see what happened…


----------



## donwilwol

I've made several wood planes and tried the screw in the wedge thing. I always went back to the wedge without it. It just seems harder for me to adjust the iron with a hammer and use a screw on the wedge, along with the fact it takes longer. Without, you tap the iron, tap the wedge. With it you need to loosen the screw, tap the iron, make sure the wedge is set, and then tighten the screw back up.


----------



## terryR

Allen, if you already have the supplies to perform a bit of etching, and clearly have the talent needed, you could probably make money offering that service to other tool geeks? I would LOVE etched custom irons after I can solve the problems of heat-treating thick steel this winter! Not to mention the steel knives and letter openers I hope to make in the coming months, too.

Too bad we couldn't order irons from Rhett that said '2013 JL Tool Swap' very cool…but, oh, the cost of shipping back and forth and back again…


----------



## kenn

I'm off to the Post Office! Somebody will be getting a package early next week. Check your porches for a box.


----------



## donwilwol

but, oh, the cost of shipping back and forth and back again…

especially when it finds the black hole!!!


----------



## Sanding2day

*Your item was delivered at 12:25 pm on September 27, 2013*

Fantabulous, a day ahead of schedule…


----------



## JayT

*September 27, 2013 , 12:43 pm Delivered*

Right on time. Now to just wait and see what they think of it.


----------



## wormil

Well I haven't even started yet and I see that some are being delivered. I might not make it into this swap.


----------



## Mosquito

My plane is ready and waiting for finish… just been too busy with a mash-up of other things lately


----------



## donwilwol

If your counting, there are *13 days left* to complete the plane.


----------



## bobasaurus

Just got mine shipped today. Should be delivered on the 30th.

I had a problem with the sliding toe sticking to the body, like the finished pieces were fusing under pressure… the only thing that worked to prevent it is graphite powder. I smeared some on yesterday and now the sliding action works great.


----------



## zwwizard

Well mine went out today, should be there Monday if Co hasn't washed away. Watch for it Allen.


----------



## bobasaurus

Great, I'll look for it Richard… or fish it out of the river with a net. My house was spared any water damage, thankfully.


----------



## DonBroussard

Looks like the post office was busy today. I mailed mine today with an expected delivery date of next Thursday because I went the cheap route for shipping. Also, in the dunderhead department, I neatly packed the box, taped it ship and brought it to the post office. On my way home, I realized that I had forgotten to stamp it! After practicing and posting the practice stamping and causing a minor event on the forum, I didn't stamp my own project! I also forgot to include a personal note, but that can be more easily remedied electronically.

If the recipient wants me to stamp it, I'll pay for its round trip here and back due to my omission. Sorry 'bout that!


----------



## rhett

I've had a major AHA moment in terms of these blades. Having constructed an indexable cambering fixture, I can now offer proper scrub and jack blades.

Anyone with a plane that has the 1/4" iron, if you want an extra cambered blade, I've got 1" and 1.5" with a 3" radius (scrub) and 1.5" and 2" with a 8" radius (jack available).

Just order a half-ash in the size you want, then put the radius in the comment section.

Anyone who made a prototype that is not exactly "right", can salvage them into wood hawgs by using a cambered blade.

Be Good
Rhett


----------



## CFrye

Sending a PM Rhett!


----------



## ShaneA

Terry, better get started on your plane bud. I knocked one out between last evening and today. I am thinking the prototype may be swap worthy. Got lucky a couple of times on it. Heck, it even works!

I did have one question though…once you have it all set up and if for some reason you need to remove the wedge/iron, how in the hell do you get it out? Takes me forever to wiggle it enough to finally get it out.


----------



## donwilwol

Shane, hitting the plane on the back, or top front will loosen the wedge. That's why some have buttons on them.


----------



## terryR

Shane, I'm starting tomorrow morning! LOL


----------



## Tugboater78

plane shipped out, hope it makes someone a good user!


----------



## DaddyZ

I am waiting on some finishing before shipping… First & only one I ever made….

I feel for whomever gets mine, It works but it is tough, Might just need some more sharpening on the blade.

Gotta pull it not push it.


----------



## bondogaposis

WooHoo!! I just won the lottery. Bobasaurus's plane was in my mailbox today. No time for pic's must go make shavings.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Got the one I made shipped. Waiting for UPS. Got notification I have a package on the way!


----------



## CFrye

Daddy Z, just say its a Japanese plane ;-)
Congrats Bondo! You gonnAa send it back for signing? Hahaha!
I started a tote for mine this morning. Not sure if I'll add it or not…


----------



## bobasaurus

Glad you like it, bondo. I was almost sorry to see it go, as it's so much fun to mess with.

I received my swap plane today from zwwizard, and it's an absolute beauty. The form is completely (and awesomely) unique and the wood is finished beautifully. I took a few shavings earlier after honing-up the blade. Thanks a lot, zw… even just holding this thing is fun. Can't wait till picture posting time comes round.


----------



## terryR

Major progress in the shop today…de-rusted 2 squares, a no.5 plane, and one rip saw.

...oh crap…I'm supposed to be building a plane! LOL


----------



## rhett

I can't thank bobasaurus enough for sparking the etching idea. While my future plan is to stamp my blades, the ones I have hardened need some ID. Went to my local sign maker and had him make up some negative vinyl resists. Making a video later this week to show everyone how to personalize their irons. It can be done with as little as a 9 volt battery and a q-tip. Thanks again Allen!


----------



## bobasaurus

I'm glad you can use the information, Rhett. The sign maker vinyl resist is a good idea… I should get something similar for my logo. Does the vinyl stick down to the steel well enough to prevent seeping electrolyte? Can you reuse the resists, or are they one-offs? For the electrolyte solution, I bought 2 lbs of ferrous sulfate from this site http://alphachemicals.com/ (surprisingly cheap to acquire), though I have not tried it yet.


----------



## bondogaposis

There it is folks, shavings to .001" I couldn't be happier w/ my swap smoother. Thanks to bobasaurus again for the fine work.


----------



## donwilwol

Yikes, he's getting out the calipers. Tough customer.


----------



## Tugboater78

i know mine won't pass that test  but i tried..got another in progress that i hope turns out better.. have a couple irons that need homes


----------



## terryR

I hope to be makin' shavings in the morning with my gift plane…I doubt I'll see as many 1's and 0's as Bondo! Is that some sort of binary caliper? 

Plan is to have my completed photo in Don's email by Friday at the latest…So, am I the last? LOL


----------



## Tugboater78

i wont see mine till the 23rd!  damn work!. I wouldn't be lucky enough to have the lock workers sent home would I? that would put a halt to river traffic lol


----------



## lateralus819

No terry, im still working on mine! JUST got the mouth opened on the sole. Still have to drill for the pin, make a wedge, and fine tune it. As well as finish the "extra" gift for it.


----------



## CFrye

I'm still working on mine as well Terry. :-b


----------



## donwilwol




----------



## DaddyZ

I got mine Finished, but haven't sent to Don yet either…


----------



## 7Footer

Terry you definitely aren't the last! I'm hoping to get Don pics by the 9th, assuming of course I can make some decent shavings!


----------



## Mosquito

Mine's done, just need to stamp it, apply finish, and get pictures sent to Don


----------



## GMatheson

I'd say mine is about 75% done but I have lots of time the next few day to get a lot of it done.


----------



## TimC

Has/is anyone using refurbished irons?


----------



## lateralus819

Woohoo! Mine's almost done. After going through 3 planes. I have one that actually cuts! Ha, now i just have to finish sand it and put a finish on it. Any tips for setting the depth of cut? Seems mine always wants to cut a little heavy.


----------



## RPhillips

*TerryR* nope your not the last. I still have to get mine finished. The prototype came out great and I have mine just about ready to glue and then on to shaping. I just finished the pin and wedge tonight. I should have mine done in couple of days.


----------



## RPhillips

*Tim*, I'm using a NiceAsh iron, but I seen quite a few that mention using an old iron they had laying around.


----------



## CFrye

I glued up, cut out and started shaping a traditional style tote. Went to the store and got fastening hardware, a bigger rasp (a Sure Form) and a long drill bit to drill the tote. Got home and the benchtop drill press doesn't have the clearance to drill the tote in one shot and more importantly there is not enough length on the plane to mount the tote and still be able to whack the blade. On to Tote Plan B! Insert rolling eyed smiley face.
Other than that, I'm done…except for getting a new blade, marking the plane, finishing and sending pictures to Don!
;-D


----------



## Tugboater78

Got a message from my recipient, they seem pleased. This makes me happy, guess I underestimated myself.


----------



## Mosquito

I am using an old ECE iron in mine


----------



## donwilwol

I've built 2. Not sure which one to send. Both used irons I had.


----------



## terryR

Well, I'm relieved to know I'm not the last!  I'm really NOT a 90%'r…

No shavings yesterday…my best friend called for some help with wood splitting chores at his place in TN. And, for the 2nd time in 3 years, I had to save his life!!!

After an hour of work, he was sweating way too much, and pale as a ghost. I made him sit down, checked his BP 260/160! Then, he finally admitted to having chest pain…So, I called for an ambulance asap, and followed to the nearest hospital where my bud was indeed having his 3rd heart attack! This one was much milder than the previous two, so no stint placement was needed.

His wife is also a nurse, that I've known for 20 years…called her at work, got her to the hospital, and she gave me the biggest hug I've ever had! Two awesome people that I love as much as family!

I guess the moral of the story is…we need more retired nurses watching our buddies? What a shame I'm not worth a retirement check every month…no politics…


----------



## CFrye

Well done Terry! Hope your friend has a speedy recovery. And you are worth much more than a check… ((((Terry))))


----------



## donwilwol

Good job Terry.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, you 2. Just found out my buddy is doing so well, he is getting on the nerves of the nursing staff! :0 Doctor says send him home at noon. LOL (he has a wife/nurse to watch him)...

My teaser shot…was there a limit on how many clamps I could use on a single plane?










I photoshopped the wood so you can't really see it…


----------



## Mosquito

I sure hope not Terry, I used 9 on mine lol


----------



## JayT

Whoops, I guess the one I sent is going to fall apart, it was only clamped with five


----------



## DaddyZ

I just cut a blade out of a Tablesaw blade, Seems to sharpen just fine.


----------



## Sanding2day

Michael S, 
Not sure what your name on here is, but wanted to let you know that I received my plane from you and couldn't be happier… Beautiful choice of woods and takes some great shavings… All the best and many thanks!!


----------



## BTimmons

I'm probably about two or three days out from finishing my jack plane. We've got until the 10th to get our planes shipped, right?


----------



## terryR

Mos, how many clamps for that lovely jointer you recently completed? lol

Candy, I got so tied up with my buddy's heart attack, I forgot to mention…Next time you are trying to drill the through hole for a plane tote, go ahead and plan to drill from both ends to meet in the middle. Start with a square piece of wood, and scribe square lines all around it, so that you create cross hairs on either end that are nicely aligned. That's how everyone has to do it…unless they have a $2000 drill press, or horizontal boring tool, or a hand drill matched with incredible skills. 

Since the bored hole is larger than the hardware you'll use, a perfect meeting in the center isn't needed…just pretty close.


----------



## mds2

Sanding2day, I realized after I sent my plane I forgot to put my username in the letter. Glad to hear that you like it!


----------



## Mosquito

for the jointer I used 14, as that's all I had at my apartment lol


----------



## Sanding2day

Ahhh, mds… Should have put that together  Thanks again…


----------



## donwilwol

Brian, you have until the 10th to get me the pictures, then until the 15th to ship. That should allow us to post pictures on the 20th.


----------



## BTimmons

OK, good. That should give me a little more leeway. I'm mostly concerned with drying time. Things I have to do:

- Pull the body out of clamps
- Clean glue squeeze out
- Shape the body
- Flatten the sole
- Finish shaping the tote
- Fit the tote to the body of the plane
- Camber the iron for a jack and sharpen
- BLO and wax

It's the last step that will probably take the longest. I didn't want to put this thing in the mail when the BLO is still wet!


----------



## mochoa

The great thing about the plane I'm making is, no glue involved….


----------



## Hammerthumb

Using duct tape Mauricio?


----------



## mochoa

Dang, who told you? ;-)


----------



## Hammerthumb

No, really, are you putting it together with screws? That way you can swap out the sides or the body for different looks or different mouth openings? Hey, that makes me think. Good idea Maur!


----------



## mochoa

A Lego hand plane huh? Thats an idea!

My plane is carved out of one piece of wood. The style of plane I'm making doesn't lend itself to the lamination method unfortunately. However there are screws involved. 
I'm going outside the box so to speak on this one.

I'm pretty much done with my one for the swap, now I just have to make one for myself!


----------



## CFrye

Thanks for the tip on tote drilling Terry. Glad your friend is doing so well.


----------



## bobasaurus

Bondo, I'm really pleased that you're getting such fine shavings. I think I was getting 0.002" shavings in testing, though that was before I made the special hammer to make adjustments easier. I'm actually making another plane hammer for myself right now  .


----------



## rhett

Science is awesome!

Deeper and cleaner etching than I had hoped for.


----------



## TimC

Almost done with mine. i got the final glue up done, now just for some final sanding and pin placements, then create that wedge. PROCRASTINATION….


----------



## bobasaurus

That etch is looking awesome, Rhett.


----------



## jordanp

Got mine yesterday, very nice


----------



## CFrye

VERY NICE Rhett!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

My poor recipient is on a boat for the next 6 weeks. I guess I'll get to post my plane some time next year


----------



## WayneC

I'm guessing he is a luck recipient and his plane will be worth the wait.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Well Wayne, I don't wanna toot my own horn (ridiculous tugboat pun), but my plane is the shizzle


----------



## Tugboater78

:S


----------



## donwilwol

As of right now, everyone who's sent a picture has been matched up except 1. If you didn't get a recipient, and your name's not Jordan, send me a message and I'll resend it.


----------



## terryR

I move we allow Red to post his plane as a project the same day as the rest of us, due to external circumstances. I mean, if I take a month long vacation to Syria, I wouldn't want my sender to be left out on the day we take over the Projects page with planes. 

Rhett, that is Nice! LOL


----------



## mochoa

Syria a pretty vacation hot spot these days Terry? ;-)

Yeah we definitely wouldn't want to wait for you to come back from there….


----------



## jordanp

My plane must have been so bad Don pulled it out of the contest 

am i the 53rd wheel or something?


----------



## TimC

Are we getting matched after we finish? I haven't been matched yet (at least I don't think I have  )


----------



## bobasaurus

Out of curiosity, how many total participants do we have?


----------



## mochoa

Yeah you get matched after you send Don the pic. That way we minimize the chance of people not receiving a plane because their gifter fakes out.


----------



## donwilwol

you get matched when I get your picture and address *AND* I get or have a plane close to what you want. So its possible you get a plane in the mail and I haven't even told you who to send yours to, and vice-versa.

We've had guys (and gals) come in late and a bunch dropped out. Everyone has until the 10th. On the 10th your either in or out, so I don't know how many will eventually show up.

Jordan, using you as an example, someone has your name and is sending your plane, and the next one in who is looking for something like you made will get yours. It should be soon.


----------



## WayneC

Red, I would expect no less.


----------



## Tugboater78

Got some news a bit ago, seems they gonna split my time up. Guess they don't wanna pay out 15+ days of overtime for me.

I'll get to see my plane sooner, BRK I say post after the deadline


----------



## jordanp

Hey Don I can make something different this weekend if you need me to..

I have already received mine.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^ I kinda liked my idea of your girlfriend opening it and sending you pics of the plane. Of course, if she got carried away with the camera….it could redefine "tool porn." lol

*Lord, I apologize for that there, and…be with the pygmies in New Guinea, amen.*


----------



## Tugboater78

Hey that idea could still be an option… Creative pics with the plane and such…


----------



## DonBroussard

@Tug-Reminds me of "one time, when I was at band camp" . . .


----------



## donwilwol

Hey Don I can make something different this weekend if you need me to..

I don't *need* you to but if your looking for an excuse….................


----------



## jordanp

Up to you Don

Maybe PM me after a few more people turn theirs in?


----------



## LakeLover

Been in internless working out of town all week.

The plane is done. Just got to fiqure out how to send don a Pic and it's on it way.

Terry R. I am a retired RN. Darn handy skills to have. Were is your buddies Nitro spray. He should never leave home with out it.

Had a stent in 2000. Genetic thing. No real problems since. but twice I heeded a shot and It sure is good having it in your pocket.

Highlight od the week. Power goes out Wnd PM for 1 hour. I had just started mixing a batch of concrete. As I am fixing and old broken cinder block basement.. Ok saved that load.

Thursday. Just mixing batch 3 for the day. Making great progress. The power goes out. GRRRRRR. wait an hour. no wait another hour. Empty concrete mixer and start to clean. No power no water. So what I had on hand I tried. What a mess. Well the power comes on 5 hours later. Mixer is a mess cause I was mixing fiber and bonding agent. GRRRRRR. Got some other no power needed jobs done.

Ordered a bunch of insulation stops for the re roof job. Idiots shipped the wrong product. nother 1/2 day shot.

Plumber shows up this early AM to fix some sewer pipes coming thru the failed wall. Ok He says be right back. Got to get some material. So I finish another job putting in triple beam the original builder missed. Now it's noon. No plumber. Said OH well. Or similar

So I packed up and drove home. Living in a tiny Mo HO 5 days a week starting to run out of fun. But Deer season starts soon so I was doing some spotting this AM.

This was parked were I stopped for lunch.









Sort of a plane?


----------



## CFrye

Lakelover, I'm so looking forward to the day when I can say "I'm a retired RN." Hope your weekend is better than your week. Looks like a helicopter to me.


----------



## Tugboater78

Ohh tool porn pics have arrived! She called first and said it was pretty..


----------



## donwilwol

Candy, don't wish your life away!!

Justin, .... ahhh, never mind!


----------



## CFrye

Sage advice Don. Still, anticipation is a good thing. ;-)


----------



## terryR

LakeLover, you're a retired old fool?  Awesome to hear it! Yeah, NTG saved the day…

Candy, you are a Nurse? I had no idea…now I feel sorry for you. Good thing you've found this thread to help you unwind after work!  20+ years for me in the Open Heart ICU. Now, I wanna be a woodworker! LOL


----------



## LakeLover

Candy, Retired sounds better than burned out. 

Yea did ortho ward and took the OR course. then 6 years in the OR including charge nurse. Had a head to head with a nasty Female Doc and said F it. So did home care and longterm. Loved it all except the polotics and unions shiiiit. Last job I did Nursing was at a Navy Cadet Camp. I was the Senoir Nursing Officer. Civilian. But did have 5 + years in cadets and 3 reserves.

Was a blast, great term. but when it was done so was I. This was an old TB clinic were my Mom did a few months back in the late 40's as an RN. My Brother studued there in the 70's as a artist residence. A grand place with rich history, (Google Fort San) but the Gov shut it down. SO I went out at the top of the game.

Have considered a refresher course but 7 thousand $.......... Fu I'll hammer nails instead and no shift work.

Don sent me his email and pic sent.

Candy If you come to western Canada, I'll give you the tour.


----------



## CFrye

Hahaha! Thanks Terry! (I hear BA Baracus saying "I pity the fool.") ER for me, almost 20 years (+ other venues). This is a good thing to have found!


----------



## CFrye

Yes it does LakeLover! Glad you ended your career with a job you enjoyed. Thanks for the tour offer! Likewise, I'll give tours of Oklahoma!


----------



## TimC

My plane is chattering. The iron is 1/8" thick. Is this too thin without a chipbreaker?


----------



## Mosquito

How well is the iron seated? I was having chatter with mine too, but then I found out it wasn't bedded on the lower portion…


----------



## bobasaurus

Maybe check the fit of the iron against the bed… one or both surfaces could need flattening. Also, make sure the wedge is meeting the crosspin (or other mating surface) all the way across. You could also try sharpening the blade further and making sure the cut is very light.

I was wondering if adding mass to a plane would help for situations like this… something like a dead blow plane, with lead shot trapped loosely in internal pockets.


----------



## donwilwol

if the iron is bedded and the wedge is tight, then its not sharp enough and/or your cutting to deep.


----------



## Quaternion

Phew, haven't had time to check the forum in a while, only 173 unread messages in this thread. You guys sure talk a lot  (Kidding, I love to see what's going on even when I can't hang around.)

Don, I love the way you've organized this swap - it allows latecomers to join, and (more important at the moment) saves my bacon when I just don't have time to complete my plane… Probably. So this is semi-official notice, Quaternion won't be participating 

If anybody else is in the same boat, I should have an extra plane to swap in a couple of months, when I get back into the shop. Ordered two blades from Rhett to make one for myself and one for the swap, and they're still sitting in the wrapping paper. I feel kind of bad, since I took advantage of his special offer for the swap… Pretty sure when I make mine I'll be buying another iron from him anyway, I love the idea of a wooden scrubbie with his new cambered irons. Thanks Rhett!


----------



## CFrye

I can say first hand Rhett's new cambered blade works great! Got it in the mail yesterday-Thank you very much Rhett! Swap plane is in the finishing booth! WooHoo! Letter/number stamps came in yesterday's mail as well-almost like it was my birthday! :-D happy dance gearing up!


----------



## Mosquito




----------



## CFrye

Looks great Mos! I like the curve. Any lining up tips you want to share?


----------



## Mosquito

What I did for the CJA and 2013, is set the plane on my bench, held in place with a holdfast, and then for CJA used 2 pieces of scrap 3/4" boards laid on the bench, and then for 2013 used a 3/4" board, and a 1/2" board, setting the stamp on them so they all line up.

For the curve, I used the inside edge of a roll of tape, positioned it on the front of the plane, then lightly traced it in pencil, then did those by eye by lining them up with the pencil mark


----------



## mochoa

Very well done Mos!


----------



## DanKrager

I'm scared to make my stampings public because I simply cannot get the alignment right. This is terrific. I'm glad you shared how you did it.
DanK


----------



## RPhillips

*Mos* that looks great, good job!

Unfortunately, I don't have the means to stamps my plane, so it will have to go with out. Thought about burning my initials in it, but I think it's be better off with out it. I don't want to ruin a perfectly good plane. 

*Don* I'll email you everything tomorrow.


----------



## Mosquito

Thanks guys. I practiced on a cut out piece from my workbench, so I could test them in endgrain like it is on the plane.

I picked up a set from Menards, I think it was around $15 for the letters and numbers, $10 and $5, or something like that.


----------



## lateralus819

I was toying with the idea of doing an image transer onto wood. There is a technique where you can adhere a printed photo to wood. Maybe some other time. My plane has been oiled and will probably get some pics to don tomorrow.


----------



## bobasaurus

You can use the toner transfer technique I described earlier to do such things (or so I hear… never tried it on wood).


----------



## Wally331

Holy crap, I should have payed more attention to this thread, I thought I had till the 30th to ship! I might still have time to make one if I get it all glued up tomorrow. We'll see….


----------



## BigRedKnothead

You goofy procrastinators….lol


----------



## lateralus819

Is wax an okay final finish on a plane? I threw some danish oil on it already. Wasn't sure what was a recommended finish.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^ya, that's what they told me earlier. And wax is what I used. Of course no wax on the iron bed or wedge.


----------



## LukieB

Lateralus, I hope so, wax is what I used….like Red says none on the bed or wedge….

Mos, That thing looks awesome, nice job on the stamping.


----------



## 7Footer

+1 on Candy's statement about Rhett's irons. Also I would like to give a big shout-out to the USPS. A month or so ago I bought something from Don, he shipped it on a Saturday and it was on my doorstep when I got home from work on Monday (from about as far away in the continental US as we could possibly be, Hoosick Falls to Portland). Then last week Rhett sent shipped his iron on Monday from Kentucky and it got to Portland on Wednesday… I am pretty damn impressed with the old USPS. The rest of the Gov't isn't working but USPS keeps putting coal to the fire.

But man I am impressed with my iron from Rhett, I am going to order more, 5 minutes of honing and I was able to shave my arm with it, probably the best edge I've been able to produce since having a set of stones.

I emailed Don last week in a panic, was thinking about changing my avatar to the "I'm a Flake" button like Stef posted a while back…... BUT don't count me out yet! I think I am going to pull it off, shaping and final tuning tonight, then finishing touches and labeling, and should have a pic for Don on Thurdsay. My plane will be a small jack / scrub plane, but she's a beauty!


----------



## Tugboater78

I finished my plane with 3 coats of blo and Johnson's paste wax.

Nice ash blades are solid and hold a great edge. Can't comment on the shipping though, as I picked mine up in person.


----------



## ShaneA

I would also stamp a thumbs up on the Nice Ash blades. Shipped quick, fair market price. Really sharp right outta the envelope. I will be getting a couple more soon. I kinda enjoyed the wood making plane process, and damned if the thing doesn't actually work. Who would have thunk it?


----------



## donwilwol

so we won't mention the 3 nice Sargent transitional planes that USPS ate on me a few weeks ago. They went in, but never came out!!


----------



## 7Footer

Oh man, sorry about that Don.


----------



## rhett

Happy to see everyone is enjoying the blades. Should things work out as I am hoping, by first of next year, NAP will be mainly a DIY handplane company. Kits, blades, jigs, plans and instructional videos.

Thanks to everyone who has sent me their hard earned money.

I got in a Beall buffing system last week, to up the finish on my planes…WOW. Wish I had it all along.


----------



## WayneC

Thanks for providing the blades Rhett. Hopefully this will happen again next year and I will be able to take part.


----------



## 489tad

Don't panic, just the mock up. Didn't need another door stop or paper weight.


----------



## bondogaposis

Yes, another big thanks to Rhett. I really hated to send off my plane because I loved that Nice Ash iron. But I received one in the plane Bobasaurus made with an awesome etching to boot so I feel like I couldn't have done better.


----------



## lateralus819

Rhett- Have you considered making longer irons? a 4 or 4/12 would be awesome.


----------



## WayneC

And replacement Hollow Auger blades… lol


----------



## BTimmons

Finished up my jack plane! It can use a few more coats of BLO and wax, but it functions well enough for coarse stock removal. Just waiting on the address to send it to.


----------



## JayT

Huge smile on my face today. Got a package, recognized the sending address and headed right to the shop and a piece of scrap 2x.










You can tell from the shavings that it isn't a smoother. What's on the bench is just a sample, there are ten times more shavings on the floor. The plane is so much fun to use, I didn't want to stop! Won the lottery without buying a ticket. Major kudos to the sender for both design and execution.


----------



## lateralus819

Well mine is finally done! Came it at 2lbs exactly which seems like a hefty piece.

Word to the wise, may help someone from making the same mistake, althought its not that bad.

I forgot to make sure which way the letters were facing when i stamped it. Also, make sure you leave enough room for an even look for your stamping. Instead of mine saying lateralus it says lateral ha, adding the US would make it look off.


----------



## terryR

Today I tried to ruin my plane…drilled for the crosspin way too far back! So, what can ya do? Fill the hole with a plug, and re-drill. I got it right the 2nd time…even got some nice shavings by afternoon's end…although the mouth needs a tiny adjustment. This lil guy should make a decent smoother!

Hoping to get finished tomorrow…


----------



## lateralus819

Terry, i did that on my 2nd try. First try they were out of square. Ai yai yai! My plane that im sending is my 3rd try. It's pretty nice I'd say.

The cross pin drove me insane. Thats what i get for not being patient and using a cordless drill instead of a drill press.


----------



## jordanp

Dan you scared me their for a second!.
I was think ahhh crap he gave up!


----------



## jordanp

I'm going to shout out to Rhett again on the blades! Awesome blades brother, the first one I purchased is still on its original sharpening I did the day I received it in the mail. I use it at least 3 days a week for light scrub work and chamfering!.

Lol if I could afford your planes I would buy one, I can only imagine how awesome they are.

Astounding, Keep up the good work.


----------



## LukieB

*Dan*,

Well hopefully the plane you get from the swap doesn't suffer the same fate ; )

That was a nice looking mock-up…..would have made a fine doorstop, LOL


----------



## 489tad

Mock up burned nice last night. It's getting cold.

I received a box tonight. I'm not going to open it till I send mine out. Probably Wednesday. Still don't know how I'm going to mark it. I put a nice edge on the Rhett iron and mAde some shavings in alder, cherry and bubinga


----------



## Iguana

Managed to get my plane finished today. Don, pics will be heading your way tomorrow evening. Low-angle (37°) block.

I also used one of Rhett's irons - very nice to work with. The thick steel lends a nice heft to a smaller plane, and the mass should prove effective in a something meant for working end grain. Sharpens nicely and takes a mirror polish off the 13k stone. Admittedly, it is hard to find something that stone can't polish 

I've got 5 more of his irons waiting for bodies so they can be put into service…


----------



## DaddyZ

Sent my pics off to Don, 1 & Only plane I have ever made, I got it to take a few shavings.

Sorry Rhett I didn't order a iron from you, Money kind of gets in the way sometimes…

These Swaps Great for learning curves of all the different Jocks here.


----------



## LakeLover

Don Did you get my email and pics, with adderess? I sent it last week and have not heard back.

I fount a hotel with internet access out in the sticks. I should be home my Thurday and It's ready to ship.


----------



## donwilwol

*LakeLover*, check your spam filter.

Everyone who has sent a picture and an address should have a response.


----------



## mochoa

Hey so what was the consensus on the best way to bond brass to wood? Was it polyurethane glue and screws? I know we've talked about this before.


----------



## Hammerthumb

I've had good luck with urethane glue. Did not use screws. Make sure to rough up the brass with 80 or 100 grit. I did have an issue using epoxy once. Don't use it anymore.


----------



## mochoa

So scuff it up, wet both the brass and wood, apply glue, clamp the shiit out of it, then trim the foam when it dries? I think I can do that. Thanks!


----------



## Hammerthumb

That's worked for me.


----------



## BTimmons

Got the address from Don, and I'll be getting my jack plane sent off via UPS tomorrow. Hopefully the recipient doesn't totally hate it. This was my very first shot at making a plane. Not the prettiest one I've ever seen, but for a coarse jack with a healthy camber for leveling rough wood, it ought to work.


----------



## GregInMaryland

I know I'm suppose to wait, but I couldn't help myself. Here she is:


















Isn't she purdy? I even broke out my finest iron and chipbreaker:










There's going to be one lucky recipient!

Greg


----------



## rhett

Mauricio- I'm assuming you are adding brass to a sole? You can drill the brass with a countersink, then glue and screw it down. Use a thick piece of metall and brass screws. Attach it proud, then file down the brass and out the screw head, while flattening the sole.

Hope that makes sence. There is a blog about it, by Derek Cohen. A bit of google-fu would find it.


----------



## CFrye

My pic is sent to Don. I don't have any warped (or otherwise) cherry or hard maple. I really had fun scrubbing a piece of oak fire wood with it though!
Before:








After:


----------



## terryR

Plane is done! Boxed and ready for the morning mail…

Thanks for your work, Don W!


----------



## LakeLover

Got it Via PM Thanks Don.

I will ship as soon as I get home.


----------



## mochoa

Thanks Paul, I know you've done some nice work with brass so I know you talk from experience.

Rhett, yeah, Im going to be using it for the sole. You know I think I'm going to use some screws, I'm worried about the piece moving when glued up and the screws will help a lot. I just got the countersink and the brass screws, I'll let you know how it goes.

Greg, that's nice, Scott Meaks aint got nothing on you man. ;-


----------



## mochoa

Still plenty of life left on that iron to. LOL.


----------



## BTimmons

Got my jack plane boxed up and Oklahoma bound! First time trying to make a plane, and things got pretty hairy. I hope the recipient is able to enjoy it, warts and all.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Maurico - Rhett is right. If it is for the sole, I would put a few screws in it also. Good luck.


----------



## Boatman53

Mauricio after you drill the pilot holes run a steel screw in first to cut the threads. Brass screws are not very strong and going into hardwood of the plane they could break, I hate it when that happens. If you do a very shallow countersink when the head is removed and sanded flush it all blends together and is almost invisible.
Jim


----------



## BTimmons

*Greg In Maryland,* your little block plane looks cool! I like the sweeping lines all around.


----------



## mochoa

will do, thanks for the tips guys!


----------



## fatandy2003

Plane is done. Just needs a coat of wax. Email sent to Don. As always, learned a ton during this swap.


----------



## shelly_b

Running way behind on this swap. Was working on it Tuesday late into the night since the little one stayed at her maw maw's and then the dog came home really sick. He was either poisoned or just got into some bad trash. Poor thing couldn't even stand within an hour of getting sick, he was shaking all over, vomiting, and swaying like he was drunk when he tried to hold his head up. So, we had to make an hour drive to the nearest animal ER at 2:30am, then go back and get him at 7:30am because they closed and take him to our local vet. Didn't get home until 11am Wed, so that was meant for plane work was spent sleeping. The best part is we got to bring him home today though He is still not 100%, but is feeling much better. I have made a little progress though. I plan on making the final length 12in, and am going to call it a jack plane. Can someone help me out with how far back to put the mouth? I was thinking 4-5inches? I think that is the only question I had. I know it has been answered, but I don't have time to go through 900 posts! I honed the blade while I was waiting on the sole to dry…then the dog came home sick. I will have a picture ready for Don by tomorrow though! Just need to chop it up and glue the sides on…sounds easy enough lol


----------



## mochoa

Just to be clear, I have until 10-15 to ship the plane? Thats what the above instructions say, I just want to make sure its not that it has to be in the recipients hands by 10-15.


----------



## Mosquito

*Mauricio* - It's shipped by 10/15, not received by, at least that's my understanding.

-

*Shelly* - , 4-5" should be fine. You could always lay the iron on or next to it, and get a visual for what looks right. Ultimately, if it functions, the location of it doesn't really matter…


----------



## donwilwol

Pictured and address by tomorrow (the 10th) *PLEASE.* If its not quit done, I won't look that close. Ship by the 15th. If by Friday (the 11th) afternoon (eastern time) you don't have a recipient please let me know.

Post pictures and projects on the 20th.

We're getting to the end, so let me know if you have a preference, but at this stage, you may just get mine!!

Its like the day before xmas eve!!


----------



## GregInMaryland

Who is suppose to post the pictures? The maker or the recipient? Are we going to start a new thread or use this one?

Thanks,

Greg


----------



## Mosquito

The way we've done it in the past, the recipient posts pictures to this thread, and then the maker posts it as a project with a tag of planeswap, or something, so we can find them from a single place


----------



## ShaneA

Sent my e-mail/pic Don. If you don't see it, let me know. Thanks for the efforts.


----------



## DaddyZ

Got a package that was OK Bound today…

Nice one BT !!!


----------



## rfusca

Finishing up mine now - should have a pic later tonight.


----------



## BTimmons

Pat, you got it already? Awesome! I hope you enjoy the plane, despite the obvious flaws left by my hurried efforts.


----------



## BTimmons

Well, since my recipient has already received the plane I made, I posted it to the Projects tab. Can't wait to see what the rest of you folks come up with.


----------



## ShaneA

Reveal is/was intended for the later date. I have seen a couple already posted…the anticipation is growing.

Plane looks great Brian.


----------



## BTimmons

Shane, was there a date I was supposed to wait for before posting? According to Don's original post in the thread:

"Same rules as previous swaps
-no posting pictures before your recipient has received the plane."

My recipient has the plane I made, so posting the pictures should be kosher, right? Or maybe you meant that you were waiting until later to post yours? In which case, nevermind.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Absolutely no disrespect to Don or the folks who have been doing the swaps. But I can understand BTimmons confusion. For us first-timers, the rules are a little vague. I've just been following the herd.

Although I realized I totally gave a sneak peak of the plane I received when I posted shots of my moxon vise


----------



## Hammerthumb

Great Red. Now I got to go back and look for it!


----------



## 7Footer

Thats a nice looking plane BT, very nice.. This project was definitely a very humbling experience for me, I just shot Don an email with pics of mine, mine was a small jack, I really hope the recipient likes it, and if they don't at least they have a brand new Nice Ash iron!

I think post #887 from Don is what Shane was referring to. I'm sure its fine though, no one is going to scold you! ;-)


----------



## donwilwol

Sorry guys. I didn't realize the 20th wasn't in the original post. I wasn't sure how it would all go trying to match up the plane types. I'm still worried I'll forget somebody.


----------



## BTimmons

Oh, I didn't know I should've waited until the 20th. Oops!


----------



## Sanding2day

Doh! In the same boat as Brian, seen the two swap postings and for some reason the 10th was in my mind so I went ahead and posted last night after finishing up another 16hr work day… Apologize for jumping the gun there…


----------



## terryR

Brian, I think you're cool…nice plane BTW!

Ya know, this build was sort of intimidating at first, but making a plane was a ton of fun. I hope we swap planes again in the future since I know I can build a better one than my first two…

Plus, after seeing that HT Gordon rebate plane yesterday (HPOYD), I'd love to attempt something similar!


----------



## Mosquito

Mine went out yesterday. Hoping it's delivered on Monday. Not going too far…

-

Do we want to standardize a tag to use in the projects? That way we can view them all easily once they're posted. Saw BTimmons used "plane swap". Works for me?


----------



## donwilwol

The entries are officially closed. Thanks everyone who made a plane. It looks like there were a total of 38 plane makers new and old.

Everyone should now have a place to send their plane and everyone should have a plane on its way (I hope!!)

Note that Nobody knows who they get their plane from until it arrives (or the sender contacts the recipient). And nobody is getting a plane from the same person they sent one to and vice-versa (with one exception, 2 folks from Canada)

I agree with a the tag.

Mine went in the mail this morning. I decided on taking the last email in, and it worked out perfect.

If another swap is formed, I'll be glad to transfer the [email protected] email to them.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Great job Don. Well done!


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks for everything Don. I mailed mine this morning. Had to do a last minute fix and re oil it, but it's good to go and should be there by tuesday.


----------



## Sanding2day

Indeed… Thank you for all of your work hosting the swap! Certainly enjoyed the experience…


----------



## Tugboater78

I, more than likely, won't be able to post my project up of one I made till a later date. Or show the one I received, out its sitting at home, but I have yet to really see it. Girlfriend sent me pictures, but her phone takes awful ones. I know this is no real big deal but just wanted all toknow that my job sucks sometimes.


----------



## donwilwol

if your job only sucks sometimes, you're doing ok. We understand for sure.


----------



## mds2

Thanks Don for organizing this. It was really fun and I look forward to the next one.


----------



## lateralus819

I think a shooting board would be a sweet swap!


----------



## bobasaurus

Interesting idea lat, but the shipping would get expensive given the size and weight.


----------



## donwilwol

11 1/2" x 23" will fit in a large flat rate box that's $16. Is that big enough?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Then there's the predicament of knowing what size of plane they use as a shooter….


----------



## lateralus819

Don that seems like a good size. Good point Red. Just throwing ideas out there. I think these swaps are a great idea. Maybe it could be on a request basis. Just like how this plane swap worked, a person needs a shooter for a #5 or #6 or #7. But must request must be made Prior to the swap? Dunno.


----------



## mochoa

Too bad Brian and Dan ruined the swap. ;-( Mabye we can get it right next time….

Lol, just kidding guys, sweet entries there. I'd be proud to own either of them.


----------



## terryR

Hey, I was thinking a shooting board, too! I sure need one. I didn't think about sizing it for different planes, though?

Other ideas…a square? mallets re-visited? I like how we voted before the marking gauge…


----------



## Ripthorn

If we're talking future swap, I would not personally go with a shooting board for a couple reasons: 1) size/weight, 2) if it gets bumped in transit, then your previously square fence may no longer be square, and 3) just not sexy/flashy enough . My vote would be for something like a spokeshave, a sliding bevel, or something else that is small and that you can't have too many of. Could do something like a scraper holder and/or burnisher…


----------



## mochoa

Trysquares was one idea that was floated previously.


----------



## Mosquito

I liked the idea of trysquares… I think it'd make a fun swap. Trysquares and T-bevels?


----------



## lateralus819

I was thinking t bevel as well. But who says you can't make a shooting board flashy?


----------



## ShaneA

I liked when we had the vote, but if we can come up with more suggestions like above maybe whomever takes the lead on the next swap may cast the deciding vote.

Would the square have to be "square" or just for decoration? Maybe it could be builder's choice from the previous swapped items…now that some of us have a bit more practice at making these things, they could be worth revisiting. I will be good with whatever the genral consensus is. These things have been useful skill builders and I have gained some tools in the process.


----------



## lateralus819

I'm glad to have had this experience. Makes me want to build all sorts of cool tools! Not to mention its cheaper then buying them. I'm working on a 32" jointer at the moment, then i'll build a 45 degree and 55 degree smoother.


----------



## fatandy2003

Other options: Brace, dividers, spokeshave, backsaw, dovetail guides…


----------



## Ripthorn

I like the idea of dovetail markers. Have the swap be for a basic set of 1:6,1:7,1:8 or something. I've been putting off making those for a while, so a swap sounds like a great idea, it'll get me off my duff about them.


----------



## ShaneA

What about plane adjusting hammers, if that is even the correct term. I built one to send w/my swap plane, but I will try to build a couple more too, I actually found it more difficult than I would have imagined.


----------



## lateralus819

I think it'd be easier if it was a tool everyone could use. I myself don't have a dovetail saw, so a marker would be useless (for now)

An adjustment hammer is an okay idea, i built one with my plane too.


----------



## JayT

Sounds like plane hammers might be redundant. I built one and sent with my plane and then received one from my sender, as well.


----------



## 7Footer

Plane hammers would be sweet… I was planning on making a small chamfer plane to go with mine but ran out of time.

BTW - Are we suppose to tell the recipient that there is a package headed their way (I was going to send the tracking # but wasn't sure if I am suppose to). Either way, my plane is East Coast bound today, should be there on Thursday or Friday next week! I'm nervous! lol.


----------



## BTimmons

What about a marking knife swap?


----------



## Boatman53

I'd be interested in a try square or bevel gauge swap.
Jim


----------



## Iguana

*Don W* - How many of us Canucks participated? Just the 2 that you mentioned?


----------



## donwilwol

Mark, there were 3.


----------



## WayneC

Scratch Stock swap?


----------



## terryR

Hmmm…scratch stock swap…










I love it! LOL


----------



## bondogaposis

Would the square have to be "square" or just for decoration?

I think sqareness in a square is a very desirable trait. There would be no point in making an unsquare one.


----------



## WayneC

It is hip to be square…


----------



## terryR

+1 to wanting a square, square…unless…










And, let's face it, who has too many squares?


----------



## 489tad

I mailed my plane out. I opened my received plane today. It is fantastic!!! Thank you…. Cant wait to post it.


----------



## 489tad

I like a good square swap.


----------



## CFrye

Plane is in the mail and headed Eastward! The letter I was going to send with it got stuck in my computer that turned itself off mid-printing. My hand writing is atrocious. So, recipient, when you get the package PM me and I'll elaborate via PM or email! 
TerryR, did you make those good looking un-square squares? Nice looking box of scratch stock!


----------



## terryR

Candy, no I certainly didn't make those beauties (think they are called a miter square?). I happened upon the image while reading some enabler article…cannot remember who the maker's mark CC represents. Not Chris Vesper or Derek Cohen, but someone who probably knows them both on a first name basis…

OK, I'm a tool geek. I download so many pretty pictures of expensive hand tools, my iPad can't keep up with labeling them all! LOL

...although I'm pretty sure these are from Holtey…


----------



## jordanp

Yea holtey planes are on a completely different level..
Something I will never own. That's about $10,000 - $14,000 worth of planes in that picture according to Holtey


----------



## RPhillips

I like the idea of a "square" swap, but not sure I have the means to create one. Would be interesting to learn how craft one though.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Shoot Rob, a trysquare requires very little tools. I'll make a tutorial for those if it would help.

Just so you guy know, I'm gonna post my plane on the 19th. It's really the only way my plane will make the daily top 3. And I just love seein' my name in the big lights…...lol


----------



## lateralus819

I totally forgot to take pics if my plane lol. Oops. Not sure when I'm gonna see my lane since I had to move out ugh.


----------



## Tugboater78

Well I don't have to work 42 straight days, I get off this Friday through thursday, so I will get to hold my new plane and try to post the one I made.

Try squares would be neat, got some on my "want to try" list got a couple magazine articles about making some and they are a project in The New Traditional Woodworker..


----------



## donwilwol

I won't be checking the gmx email much. questions, comments and the "I didn't get a plane" reports please use PM or my email in my signature.

Happy planing!!


----------



## LakeLover

Due to working out of town and this is the Canuck Turkey Day Weekend. No Post office open till Tuesday.

So The plane is ready to go. A couple friends were looking at it and thought it was nice looking.

Mark K Were do you live, I am in South SK.


----------



## DaddyZ

Square or Bevel gauge sounds good to me !

My Plane going out tomorrow..

Hot Water tank elements burned out this weekend, Lowe's dosent carry the right Element. The threads will not fit my tank, the only answer they gave is. There is only one size of threads on them, all the elements fit all tanks threads.


----------



## Mosquito

Tracking # says mine was delivered on Saturday


----------



## donwilwol

I wonder who is enjoying that nice new plane?


----------



## lateralus819

Mine should arrive tomorrow. Hope they like it.


----------



## Tugboater78

I just held the plane I received, I unexpectedly got off the boat today, after surprising the gf I picked up this beauty..can't wait to use it


----------



## donwilwol

See there is the difference. After 36 years of marriage I'd have gone straight to the plane.


----------



## Mosquito

I felt a little bad, 'cause I sent it out with a dull iron… I had been using it for test runs, and only noticed how bad it was after I had already put away all my sharpening stuff, and de-shopped the shop, so it could act as a bedroom again for the weekend :-/


----------



## mds2

Man I cant wait to post pictures. I was completely spoiled by my sender.


----------



## Tugboater78

Don I was looking for it once I walked in the door, but I got "attacked" I didn't tell her I was coming home, so she was rather surprised. Her and the kids both.


----------



## racerglen

"Attacked " is nice, but how did the kids feel about that ?
;-)


----------



## 7Footer

On Saturday I was working in my backyard and my wife opened the little patio door to ask me something after going out to get the mail and says "honey your plane is here!" ..... Naturally I run to the door, and there she is just laughing at me….. Yeah wife you're hilarious!


----------



## theoldfart

7'r, thats just plane cruel!


----------



## 7Footer

Hayy-yooo!! I know right!! I though there was no way it would be there already as I had to have been one of the last one's to finish mine but a guy can dream right? lol.


----------



## lateralus819

jeeze, thats mean! My wife is picking on me too. I went to my house to wait for the mail guy and waited over an hour only to realize today is a holiday (doh).


----------



## Iguana

LakeLover - I'm in Kelowna. Make racerglen and me pretty much neighbours


----------



## Tugboater78

the kids attacked too one on each leg and her trying to pull me down, its nice to be wanted i guess?


----------



## terryR

Justin, told your funny story to my wife last night…now she won't let me open my gift plane till after I 'put out'!!!

Cool…sounds like a win, win deal to me! Looks like you've started a new tradition besides the Bondo pose! LOL

Lateralus, usps told me it would be there Tuesday…but I'd bet a dollar on Wed.


----------



## DaddyZ

Mine is heading to Indianapolis, should be there th or fr


----------



## BTimmons

I had fun making mine, but I keep reminding myself that I'll be getting a plane out of this swap, too! I told Don I wasn't picky about what type I get, so it'll be a surprise no matter what. Pretty eager to see whichever delivery person will be gracing my door.


----------



## GMatheson

My plane is in the possession of Canada post. Should be arriving at its destination by Friday.


----------



## mochoa

My plane hasn't gone out yet. I decided to get crazy on it at the last minute, hopefully its not late but if it is I think it will be worth the wait…. I'll try to send it out tomorrow.


----------



## GregInMaryland

Mine's headed south as we speak.


----------



## lateralus819

Went home and waited for teh USPS driver but didn't see him. But good news, my plane made it to its destination.


----------



## BTimmons

I just received an absolutely GORGEOUS Krenov style jack plane from Natedog. Thanks, Nate!!!!


----------



## CFrye

Post office says mine is "delivered" with a delivery date of 10/16/13?


----------



## donwilwol

Cool Candy. Yours is a time traveler.


----------



## LakeLover

Mine is now in the mail. heading south of the 49 th.

I paid extra for stagecoach service over sled dogs. So I hope it will arrive as promised.

Not sure when I have to head back out of town. Waiting on the roofers. So I am not sure if I will be around for the 20th.


----------



## shampeon

Mine's on the way to the Portland suburbs.


----------



## mochoa

Guys, today the wood kicked my aas… My plane blew up at the final hour, it was almost done to…

Don, I need a couple day extension, appologies to my recipient for it being late.. Hopefully it will be worth the wait.


----------



## Mosquito

lol Candy, sort of how my paycheck was deposited on Friday, but dated for today (15th) lol


----------



## CFrye

Don, maybe Dr. Who got a hold of it.
Maurico, I so wanted to do some last minute things to my plane but didn't dare for that very reason! 
Mos, how does that work?!
I was (supposed to be) sleeping yesterday afternoon when I heard my husband in the living room say to our son "mumble mumble *package* mumble". I lasted 8 whole minutes before I got up to check it out! Normally I'd be pleased with a package of cinnimon rolls. Not so much this time.


----------



## DanKrager

Now that's funny, Candy. You've got the sickness!
DanK


----------



## jordanp

SENT mine out yesterday. couldn't remember if I let Don know or not.. i've been out sick…


----------



## donwilwol

I don't need to know if you sent it, only if your not going to. If its going to be late, just let the recipient know.


----------



## terryR

WOW! Did I get lucky today!

A gorgeous scrub plane courtesy of Candy…Jatoba, racing stripes, Nice Ash iron, classy shape! And, much nicer than the plane I made. Very nice workmanship…err…work-womanship, Candy!  Too pretty to scratch with use. I cannot wait to see and share photos!

And, I cannot believe you work nights, but don't sleep with a noisy fan running through the day. Only way I made it through night shift! I still sleep with a fan running to this day…err…night. LOL.


----------



## Hammerthumb

Do we start posting pictures at 12:01am on the 20th? Jsut want to make sure.


----------



## Mosquito

Paul, no, 12:00am is still the 20th! 

That's a good question, though, as I believe one of the swaps had an "8am eastern" rule, or something like that


----------



## donwilwol

12:01am is ok by me. I hope to be sound asleep!


----------



## Hammerthumb

I think the last swap it was approve to start posting one minute after midnite. As long as your good with it Don, sometimes I'm still up at that hour.


----------



## CFrye

Glad you liked it Terry! It is NOT too pretty to use! The sole was polished by lots of practice. That's what gave me the idea for the overall finish. I hope you get lots of use out of it. *I* can't wait to share photos!!


----------



## RPhillips

Sent my plane out the morning of the 15th and should be there tomorrow. 

Hand a lot of fun doing this. Can't wait to do another. I think I need a scraper and a rabbet plane next.


----------



## shelly_b

I ran home on my lunch break yesterday and pulled in the driveway behind my mail lady, I knew she had a package because that is the only reason she pulls into the driveway! So I get out and she hands me my box. I couldn't believe how heavy it was so I started to worry it wasn't the plane. I get it inside and open it and it's not "the plane", its 2 planes! A smoother and a sraper. They look and feel great I still can't believe how heavy they are…it must be the brass…I really like the weight though, I think it makes them easier to use. I really wanted to try them out right away, but had to go back to work. Am I supposed to say who sent them to me yet? Huge thank you to my sender!!! They are awesome!!! I finally got to try them out today and they work great. Thanks


----------



## shelly_b

My went to the West coast yesterday afternoon. Not sure how long it will take to get there but I would think by the end of the week…


----------



## shampeon

Received my plane 10 minutes ago from Shelly. It's lovely, and all it took was 30 seconds of putting the blade & wedge and tapping it to level until I got this:


----------



## Hammerthumb

Wow! Shelly - can I send you a stack of blades for sharpening??


----------



## GregInMaryland

A is where my plane started out
B is where my plane is right now
C is where I am










UPS should do what they do best: drive up to the door and get the dog all riled up. This patience and anticipation thing is getting really old.


----------



## Mosquito

I believe mine is at the post office. I got home to a package slip today 

Still haven't seen my recipient confirm they got mine yet, but the tracking says delivered.


----------



## donwilwol

Mine arrived today. What a great job Shane did. It took some nice fine shavings right off the bat.


----------



## RPhillips

Got mine today, can't wait to try it!


----------



## 7Footer

My plane was on the doorstep when I got home today!!!!

Thanks Shamp, she's a beauty! Very impressive plane, I took it downstairs and was able to get some razor thin shavings within just a few minutes! It's so cool getting to see the great craftsmanship on other people's work!


----------



## Tugboater78

Big red made beauty, I haven't tried her out yet, probably tomorrow


----------



## shelly_b

My 2 came from Don W and work awesome! Definitely the best plane shavings I have ever been able to get using the smoother. The scraper works awesome too. I have really never seen a scraper plane, but I have to say I really like it! Much easier than using a card scraper. I think the blade will easier to sharpen than a card scraper too. 
Shampeon- glad it's working well for you! I did a very quick like 5 pass test run before I put the handle on just to make sure it would actually put out a shaving. I didn't get a chance to try it after the handle went on. The mailing day just happened to be the last day of my 5 out of 6 day work stretch(12 hr shifts). I actually put the Danish oil on it at work a few hours before running to the post office to ship it on my lunch break.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Sure….Don assigns himself a pretty lady…..LOL


----------



## shelly_b

I love the woodwright's shop and my favorite clip is the plane giving that beautiful shaving at the end…so it is awesome to be able to do that now. Thanks Don


----------



## shelly_b

And I forgot to mention the blades from nice ash planes are awesome. The primary hollow bevel that came ground already made sharpening much easier. I just started on sand paper and moved to a wet stone. No jigs used thanks to the hollow grind.


----------



## shelly_b

Red-lol, my picture email went out at 11:30pm on the dead line, so I just happened to be the last email…which lucky for me meant I got planes from the plane expert himself. I knew procrastination would pay off some time


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Well played Shelly


----------



## CFrye

Good grief Shelly, six 12 hour shifts in a row?! Then what? 7-8 days off and do it over again? I have a few co-workers that do that. More power to you! 
I keep telling my husband that "Good things come to those who wait ('til the last minute)! He's not buying it! Glad it worked for you Shelly!


----------



## lateralus819

Congrats Shelly. Don makes some amazing planes. I've the privilege of living close to him and have been to his place a few times and used a few of the ones he's made. Very nice stuff.


----------



## RPhillips

I'm in day #5 of 6 12 hr shift right now, so I feel ya.


----------



## mochoa

I've recovered from my plane implosion and besides some finish my plane is done! I'll try and get it out today.


----------



## shelly_b

I didn't do 6 in row luckily, had sat off but had excavating done at the house so didn't have any time to do anything that day. I worked thurs, fri, sun, mon, tues 7am to 7:30pm. Now I have a nice stretch off


----------



## shelly_b

Rphillips- we are not allowed to work more than 3 in a row without a day off, unless it is convenient for them of course…you know if someone calls off and they need coverage or something like that.


----------



## Tugboater78

I like my 12+ hour 21+ day stretches and not able to go home…


----------



## terryR

Shelly, you must be a nurse, too? The 12 hour shifts give you away. LOL. In my younger days, I could work SEVEN 12's in a row…not a chance now!

Rob, you work 12's too?

For me it was always 7p-7a. yuck!


----------



## shelly_b

Terry- yup. I liked the 7p-7a shifts better. I did them for a few years. We aren't very busy at night so most of the time I was getting paid for playing on the computer or watching tv lol. I went to days a couple years ago. Although nights are now getting busier. I think it has something to do with the whole Obama care thing and all the family docs in the area are closing…which leaves everyone coming to the ER.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, the railroads were so ridiculous about making us work 12+hour shifts over and over(my record was around 30 straight).....that the government stepped in a made laws about it a few years ago. 
Now we can only work 6 straight, then 2 off.


----------



## Alexis

-


----------



## mochoa

I just sent my plane off! Sorry for the delay Lucas, it will be late but it will be sweet! At least I think so, hope you do to.


----------



## terryR

Shelly…I knew it! Another nurse…although now that I have my reading glasses on, I can see your avatar involves scrubs. doh! Yeah, I just lost my doctor 6 months ago…no politics…

Mauricio, I can't wait to see your plane! For some reason, I expect a rebate or dovetailer?

Also, since brother Maur was the LAST to mail, I nominate Him for the next swap chair! 

No…actually, Don Yoda has done sooo much the past month, he deserves to appoint the next sucker. IMO.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I'm a little afraid this might have burned Don out. What if he disappears for a while like Brandon did;-/


----------



## LukieB

I can't wait Mauricio, I'm sure that it's sweet, I've seen the quality work you do. I can't wait!!


----------



## Mosquito

Picked mine up from the post office today. It's pretty sweet! I don't feel as bad for sending a dull iron, as the one I got was duller than the one I sent! lol No worries, At least I know it's a brand new iron ;-)

Also got confirmation that mine made it there


----------



## mochoa

Terry, hmmm, I'm not talking, we'll have to wait and see. My wife took it to the post office for me, she said it due to arrive on Monday which seems a little too fast so well see.

Hey I already hosted one swap, I can't do another. Anyway it's better to get someone fresh; that always bring new perspectives and ways of doing things.

I'd be down for another hand plane swap but in about 6mo - 1yr from now. There are so many different planes that can be made.

Don, did a great job on this swap by the way. 3 cheers for Don!

Thanks for the faith Lucas. I'm probably making a mistake in not using Shane's tactic of setting expectations low though. I miss that plane already though, I sent it off right after finishing it, I didn't get to fondle it much….


----------



## RPhillips

*Yep, A big THANKS to Don for handling this swap!*

*Terry R* I work a rotating 12 hr shift, called the DuPont schedule. It's a 28 day cycle that consists of both nights and day… can be a bit rough at times and not uncommon for us to work 7-14 straight due to outages. We'll just double up shifts and keep 2 shifts on day and 2 on nights until the outage is complete.

I've done 41 straight day shifts for a unit start up where I work now. That was rough….

Looks like this:

N N N N O O O D D D O N N N O O O D D D D O O O O O O O

D = Day
N = Night
O = Off


----------



## shelly_b

Yes, thank you Don! You did awesome with this swap


----------



## LukieB

Monday!? Don't toy with my emotions now Maur, seems kinda quick to me too considering the distance it's gotta go….I guess if it's moving over the weekend…

I can't wait.

And another big thank you to Don, you did indeed do an awesome job.


----------



## terryR

Oh yeah, Mauricio, how soon we forget…you certainly did host a swap…and did a fine job! I like your suggestion of searching for fresh blood for the next moderator…lets ME off the hook! LOL

+1 on hoping we re-visit planes for a future swap! The build was a challenge, but I learned a ton!

Rob, jeez, you must be quite young to work nights AND days on that schedule. My body never would allow switching back and forth.


----------



## GMatheson

I picked my plane up at the post office today. Looks amazing. Can't wait to get it home and play with it. The nice ash iron looks massively impressive in a smaller plane.


----------



## mochoa

Lucas, yeah Monday sounds a little soon especially since I sent it on friday afternoon.

I just got a sweet figured maple plane from the land of the maple leaf, Canada, and it is nice! I'm 6yr old son is about as excited about it as I am. He can't wait to make some shavings with it. I'll post some pics tomorrow!


----------



## Ripthorn

I just had an idea for a cool swap. It would be a swap where there is a list of materials (general list) and possibly a list of projects. Sort of like the 1 bd ft or 1 sheet of plywood threads that go up occasionally. I have to admit that what spurred this for me was what I was able to get out of 1 length of O1 tool steel. I just made myself a set of 4 small chisels in addition to the blades for some infill planes. I still have some left over. Anyway, may not work, but would still be fun.


----------



## LukieB

So today is post day yes?

I figured since I'm a couple time zones behind, that there would be at least a couple posted this morning already but I don't see any on the projects page yet. Or am I just the only one that's up a 6am on a Sunday?

Don't wanna jump the gun, but I am almost as excited to post as I am to get my plane!....


----------



## donwilwol

Same thoughts here Lukie . 8:30 and no post yet. Were is everybody?


----------



## LukieB

Alright well, I'll kick it off….


----------



## donwilwol

So, if I got this right, post the plane you received here and the one you made as a project with "plane swap" as a tag.

correct me if I got that wrong.


----------



## RPhillips

I'll get mine posted up too


----------



## RPhillips

That's how I see it Don…


----------



## GMatheson

Here's the little plane I received from Mark Kornell. The body is Jatoba and Beech and has an Ipe sole. 1-1/2" Nice Ash iron set on a 37* bed.

Unpacked it from its box of shavings, dropped the iron in and within a few passes I was taking see thru pine and walnut shavings which is all the crazy tight mouth will allow through.

Thanks Mark. It's amazing.


----------



## JayT

Here is the plane I received from HammerThumb. It is a laminated jatoba jack plane with a 2in Nice Ash iron. Looks great and works even better. A couple of unique ideas were included-the tote is cross laminated to prevent cracking and the finger groove on the nose is a brilliant innovation. It allows a comfortable place for the fingers and the hand falls there naturally when using. He also included the lovely brass plane hammer.



















Many thanks to him for this great gift. A lot of time and effort were obviously spent making this plane and it really shows.


----------



## 489tad

A picture is worth a thousand words. Thank you Lucas.


----------



## RPhillips

DaddyZ, Thanks for this sweet little plane…


----------



## Tugboater78

Well I put the one I received to work this morning and took pictures. It's awesomeness must be too much cause my phone went nuts, started vibrating like crazy shut down, restarted made some weird ringtones went from full battery to 4% died and won't revive…

 I seriously hate cell phones now, this is my 4th in 6 months..


----------



## donwilwol

Here is the sweet block I got from Shane.




























Thanks Shane. I really like it!!


----------



## donwilwol

Rob/DaddyZ, I love that the Irwin was left. That is so cool.


----------



## waho6o9

Beautiful work folks.


----------



## bondogaposis

Here is the beauty I got from Bobasaurus. I had occasion to use it for a bit and it really is a sweet smoother. Shavings to .001"! I love the etching on the Nice Ash iron. It also has an adjustable mouth that works really well. The hammer is another beautifully crafted tool, I really hit the jackpot w/ this swap. Thanks a million.


----------



## lateralus819

Here's mine from Terry.


----------



## Hammerthumb

I'm late, I'm late, I'm late. Came in from the shop last night at 11:30pm and was going to post at 12:01 but fell asleep.
Here is the plane I received from Don Broussard. It is a "mini jointer" with the bed at 50deg an a 1-1/2" iron. I have not used it yet as it needs some tune up. By the time it got here from the bayou to the desert, the wood had shrunk so much that the iron didn't fit the opening. I got that worked out but I thought I would let it acclimate some more before I finished adjusting the wedge.
Story on the wood is that it is Purpleheart and was used as outrigger supports in Afghanistan. So, from South American jungle to Afghanistan, to the bayou, to the desert in Las Vegas. This wood is well traveled!!



















Great job Don!


----------



## Hammerthumb

Some great looking planes so far! Love that adjustable mouth plane you got from Bobasaurus, Bondo. I won't be able to post mine on the projects page unless I feel like running down to the office. I think I left all of the pictures of the one I made JayT at work. Glad you liked it JayT. I really hated to let it go after the trial run I gave it doing some bench top tuning. Looking forward to more plane posts today!


----------



## donwilwol

When I started this plane swap, I figured I'd get the chance to see a bunch of really cool shop made hand planes. This I didn't expect.



















This sweet adjustable square came from Tim. I can't thank you enough Tim. Its already been put to good use.


----------



## Hammerthumb

What a cool idea!


----------



## Mosquito

Startin' to see some projects posted, don't forget to add the "plane swap" tag so it shows up in the link Don added to the first post


----------



## Tugboater78

BRK sent me this beauty, shouldnt have to guess what its made of.. bookmatched though!





































sent it across a variety of hardwoods this morning dialing it in, smooth as silk finish, gossamer shavings on Walnut, Ash, Maple, Red and White Oak, cherry, and 2 exotic pallet woods Im not sure of, i think Teak and possbly some kind of Rosewood. makes a fine user but looks equally good on display. He says its a jack but it works as a smoother


----------



## GregInMaryland

I received this nice jack plane from 7footer in the great northwest. it is about 8 1/2 inches long made of Marblewood and Ash with a BLO finish. He used one of Rhett's blades.










Somehow he etched "LJ's Plane Swap 2013 NRK" which is way cool. I let him divulge the secrets on how he did this.










Here is the requisite money shot with some shavings in the background.










Finally, most importantly is it's new home on my tool wall



















This was a great experience and I am sure glad I participated!

Big thanks to Don for all his time and effort

Greg


----------



## fatandy2003

Nice looking planes so far! I will post mine once my recipient says they got it. And I will post the one I get as soon as the military post office gets off their duff and delivers some mail…

Cheers,


----------



## terryR

Lots of great planes, gang! I hope we swap planes again…

Here's the lovely scrub plane I received from Candy. Jatoba, Walnut, and Oak, with a nice cambered iron from Rhett bedded at 47 1/2 degrees. Very comfy to hold…










Sorry it's all covered with sawdust…I hope she took better photos for her project page…but this one's a user! Loves to make shavings! Just look how nice this piece of maple firewood came out. To heck with the dangerous power joiner thingy…THIS is a nice tool that looks like it will let me go straight from scrub to smoother.

Thanks, Candy! And Thanks, Don, for all your work on the swap!


----------



## mochoa

Great work Lucas, Daddy, Shane, & Terry!

GMat, you drew Mark, lucky dog, that plane looks sweet!

Hammer thumb, wow, I love the design of that jack, the finger grooves are a nice touch.

Boba, that adjustable mouth plane is awesome an I love the etching.

Don, that jointer is sweet, I could use one just like that, very versatile for edge jointing, shooting whatever. Love the simple but elegant design.

Tim, way to go on the adjustable square, you need to blog about how to do that, looks like a great idea. 
BRK, wow nice plane, I like the little walnut and oak "window" design.

7'er, very nice, I never even heard of marble wood. Looks great in its new home.

Candy, way to go, nice scrub plane.


----------



## mochoa

I'll hold my project post until Lucas gets it. Sorry again for the delay.

Here is what I got! Lucked out and got this SWEET rabbet plane from Brendan:









Not only is the shape beautiful it helps you put pressure in the right places through the cut, works great!

Thanks Brendan!


----------



## mochoa

Ah and you can see a couple of other tools in the background that I received from previous swaps!

Edit: I forgot to include the marking knife in the family pic!


----------



## Timbo

I wonder how much wood has been reduced to shavings today?

Lots of great looking planes!

Don: you are very welcome, glad to hear you are getting some use from the square.

Maurricio: I need to make another so a quick blog could be in the future.

Here is the plane I received from Dan (Sanding2day)!


----------



## Natedog

Here is the plane that I received from Mosquito. Red oak plane planing red oak, is that considered cannibalism?









A little bit a cherry shavings as well.


----------



## Mosquito

Nice Natedog! Glad to see you got it sharpened up and working 

-

Here's the one I got from RPhilips, sadly no action shots as of yet, since my shop is currently un-lined (the canvas tarp hasn't been put back down yet)... and I have to set up my sharpening station again, which is currently being used as a spray-paint table…


----------



## 7Footer

My plane from Shampeon, the "Super Smoother".. What a beauty, thank you again Shamp!


----------



## mochoa

Great work Dan, & RPhillips.

Ian, that plane looks nice, right at home on the granite countertop.

Nate you lucky dog!


----------



## bobasaurus

Just posted my plane (I slept in way too late this morning . Here is the link:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/91025

I'll go take some pictures of zwwizard's fine plane and post them here shortly.


----------



## mochoa

Greg I just spotted the Veritas Shooting plane in the background, very nice! How do you like it?


----------



## bobasaurus

Here is the beautiful plane I received from zwwizard. It's an adjustable mouth block plane with an O1 iron, made from a solid piece of purpleheart with nice grain and colors. All the screws run through drilled and tapped brass rods inset into the wood, giving it a really professional shiny look. The blade is held in by a purpleheart lever cap, and there is a pin on the bed to keep the blade aligned. The body is shaped really nicely, with all edges rounded fluidly into eachother.























































Thank you kindly for this lovely plane, zwwizard. Your craftsmanship is amazing and I will treasure this fine tool.


----------



## LukieB

Wow, lots of goodness going on here. Too much to comment on, they all look awesome!

Maur, I spotted the shooting plane too, and was gonna ask the same thing myself, LOL And thanks for not teasing me by posting your pics of yours before it's in my hands ; ) I can't wait….


----------



## bobasaurus

Greg, I have one of those shooting planes too and love it so far. It's quite a step up from just using a jack plane sideways.


----------



## GregInMaryland

Hey Lucas and Maur,

I just got the plane on Thursday. It is a mid-life crisis gift to myself. for some reason my wife was reluctant to let me have get one of these










so I took the 2nd best offer and got one of these instead:










Other than opening the box, installing the blade and setting it on the bench, I haven't done anything with it. With any luck, perhaps I will be able to do a review of the plane this week. I do know that I have to re-build a shooting board for the plane, but that will take a bit of time.

@bobasaurus-that is what I am hoping for. I currently use a Lie-Nielsen Low Angle Jack (Number 62) that works well, except for user induced error. It keeps tipping on me and isn't the most comfortable to hold.

Nice to see all well made planes!

Greg


----------



## bobasaurus

Greg, check out the shooting board I made for mine: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/54226

The plane is really exceptional. It is dead square according to my starrett precision toolmakers square, there are setscrews to keep the blade in line, the adjustable toe works well, and there's even a setscrew to prevent the norris adjuster from falling out (happens constantly on my veritas LA jack).


----------



## CFrye

Lots of awe inspiring planes here! I would be proud to own any one of them. I love the variety of sizes, shapes, woods and manufacturing methods. Fatandy, I'll let you know as soon as I get it!

Sorry it's all covered with sawdust… TerryR, I wouldn't have it anyother way! :-D


----------



## Ripthorn

I got a real beauty from Tim. Ash and maple with a nice ash blade. I have played with this more than any other tool in the last week or two.


----------



## DonBroussard

Sorry I'm late to the party-my wife and I were helping run a St. Jude's Benefit Tennis Tournament all weekend. I did treat myself to viewing all the postings of the plane swap so far-simply magnificent work ladies and gentlemen! I would be pleased and proud to own any of the swap planes.










This is the plane I received from LJ gfrazee. It is laminated black walnut and red oak (he was even thoughtful enough to send a spare matching piece of laminated material to make another wedge) Krenov-style plane. The overall dimensions are 3" wide x 11" long and weighs in at about 2 pounds. The iron is 2-1/4" thick. The bed angle appears to be 45*. The cross pin is brass. Unfortunately, I don't have any action shots to show yet. Thanks, Glenn!

Inspired by this swap, I am working on two additional planes: a jointer and a high angle smoother.

EDIT: Okay, I couldn't wait to try out my new woodie. First run was on ash, and the plane handled it with no trouble-made see-through shavings after a few adjustments!


----------



## woodcox

*WOW*, you guys! Very nice work!


----------



## LakeLover

Mauricio

Thanks for the kind words. Did you like the strop?

I am looking at all there wonderful pieces of work. Nice mix of styles and woods. Lots of TLC. Sure nice to see everyone doing there best work. I wonder how many pro plane makers are looking at this thread ??

I got home late Sunday PM. I will have to go check the Post Office in the morning!!!!!!!!!

Don Big Thanks for your efforts.

Rhett good on you for helping out.

Regards

Brendan


----------



## mds2

I was completely spoiled by Kenn. Not only did I receive a sweet swap plane Kenn also sent two tongue and groove plans, a rabbet plane, and a Penn State t-shirts. Awesome stuff and I've used it all. Thank you again Kenn.


----------



## ShaneA

This is what I received for the Plane Swap. Good stuff from Lateralus. Figured maple, Nice Ash Iron, and cool, hefty little hammer. Works well too. thanks


----------



## lateralus819

Glad you like it Shane. I modeled the hammer after David barrons. I suppose it would probably be more suited towards a chisel hammer. I had anther head i was using for testing and noticed hitting the iron was leaving dents. So i switched heads. Just food for thought.


----------



## RPhillips

Some really nice looking stuff here guys, lets give it a

>>>Round of Applause.


----------



## mochoa

Brendan, sorry I didn't mention it. It's great, Thanks! It's going to be very useful, especially the radius edge, it's going to be very useful with my carving gouges.


----------



## kenn

Glad you like them mds2, hope you use the day lights out of all of them.


----------



## Iguana

Greg, thanks for getting the plane I made up first! Project page is here.

Greg happens to be the the one who made a marking gauge for me in the last swap. It was used in the making of the plane that ended up being send to him.

And as it turns out, the plane I received is from the same Greg. The box arrived a couple of days ago, but I waited until today to open it. The package was completely encased in an impressive amount of packing tape - required a very sharp tool to open. (As it happens, I have some of those in my shop 

The shipping cost was equally impressive:









Particularly since it seemed to be just a box of shavings: 









There was a plane hiding in there:









A high-angle toted smoother, Walnut and Maple. The tote feels like it was moulded for my hand. Wasn't sure about the style of bun at front but after maybe two strokes, just awesome. Nicely weighted and feels like something I could use all day.

The shape of the sole is very sexy:








(What looks like a dent isn't - that's just a somewhat circular streak of color)

How does it work? I sharpened the iron and got to work. Here's a few shavings that came out while I was adjusting the iron:









And then the unthinkable happened:









The insert holding the screw to hold the lever cap pulled out. And I mean completely out:









I've had the thing all of 5 minutes and I've already broken it like some two-year old. :-( Fortunately, I believe I can fix it. And when I do, it will become one of my regular users.

Thank you Greg! I'm really, really sorry I broke it, and I promise that if I get a tool from you in the next swap, I'll treat it better…


----------



## grfrazee

I feel bad - 489tad sent me his beautiful plane and I haven't been able to make any shavings with it yet! Curse my lack of shop time!

@Don Broussard - glad you like it! If I remember correctly, the bed angle is 50deg and the mouth relief angle is 60deg.


----------



## Sanding2day

Great work all, some incredible planes to be sure… Haven't had the chance to post any pics of the one mds2 sent me as I'm in the middle of my 2nd to last 16hr 2 job marathon as we speak *current job isn't overly demanding as one might gather*

Will certainly give the received plane props though… Looks great and works wonderfully, couldn't ask for more…


----------



## mochoa

Hey Pop Wood just put out plans for a Panel Raiser, who will be the first to take on that challenge?


----------



## Mosquito

I would love to… that looks like a lot of fun


----------



## mochoa

It does look like some fun geometry, grinding the blade to shape probably wouldnt be much fun.


----------



## donwilwol

it takes some patience Mar. I need to get back to this one some day.


----------



## DaddyZ

Well Guys I guess I can't post my plane for the projects page… Somehow I deleted all the before Pics !!!!!

Oh Well live another day….


----------



## mochoa

Oh yeah, I remember that one, that was pretty cool.


----------



## mochoa

Pat,maybe your recipient can send you some pics.


----------



## DaddyZ

Nah, It's OK As long as he's happy with it…


----------



## BTimmons

Time to share what we got! Alright. I received this stunning beauty from Natedog and I couldn't be happier with it. Maple and bocote is such a great combination. And the personal carving on the front ensures that this tool will be fought over by my future grandchildren once I shuffle off this mortal coil.




























Thanks again, Nate. You rule!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^That thing is sweet. Iowans representin…..ya.

Here's the plane I got from JayT in action. High angle smoother treatin that swirly grain and knot like a red-headed step-child. (I can discriminate red-headed step-children because I am one). Smooth as glass. It really is a sweet little plane and mallet.










Looks right at home in my till.


----------



## LakeLover

Wow. That looks like a Bugatti or an old racing boat.

Just plane beautiful…......


----------



## Iguana

That is supercool. Love the boattail!


----------



## BTimmons

In case I haven't already said it, I just want to congratulate Don on organizing an awesome swap. I can't wait until the next one!


----------



## mds2

Man, everyone made some pretty awesome planes.

Kenn, almost every scrap piece in my shop has been T&G'ed together. Cant wait to use them on my next project.


----------



## LukieB

Mauricio, You are officially forgiven for your tardiness. Planes showed up today and they are spectacularly awesome. Haven't had a chance to play with them yet, but had to snap some photos so I could show off…

I was lucky enough to get 2 planes.

2 very finely crafted side rabbet planes….or a little 98/99 if you will….





































Seriously man, these things are sweet. Well done man, well done.


----------



## shampeon

Here's the jack plane I got from Shelly:
















Walnut & purpleheart. And here's a nice, lacy shaving.
















I just finished using it to correct a cup in my workbench top. Works great. It's nicely balanced, and the tote is a perfect addition. Kudos, Shelly.


----------



## mochoa

SWEET! Great Lucas, and only one day late. Go USPS! I'm getting all emotional looking at my babies.

I hope you enjoy them man. I'm glad they went to such an avid hand plane lover such as yourself. Go out and plow a groove and then try those puppies out.

PM me your email address, I have some notes I need to send you.


----------



## Mosquito

Dude…. Mauricio, those things are sweet!


----------



## terryR

Nice shavings, Ian. Gonna start sending my irons to Shelly, too…

Mauricio…very impressive! 98/99 for the lucky Lukie! Awesome, as expected.


----------



## GMatheson

They are very impressive Mauricio. I looked at the plans for them a few times but chickened out. Great job.


----------



## Wolfdaddy

Some fantastic looking planes, guys and gals! I wish I'd had the time and money to participate. Next time…


----------



## rhett

Just getting settled in from WIA. Man, what alot of awesome looking planes. I'm blown away at all the ceativity. Hopefully everyone learned something, and pushed themselves past their comfort zone. Put them to good use.

Happy I could help with the steel, even happier with the responses.

Hats off to Don.


----------



## donwilwol

thanks for all the great comments from everyone.


----------



## mochoa

Thanks guys,

GMat, those planes simple but the devil is in the details. It just a 1/2" piece of wood with a 1/8" rabbet cut on one side, you lay out the mouth and the blade bed and basically just start carving it down little by little. I'll elaborate more on the project post in case anyone wants to try making one.


----------



## mochoa

Here is my project post with more detail than you want to know about Side Rabbet Planes. 
Lucas, thanks for the great photos.


----------



## DanKrager

Maur, making a pair of those is gonna go on my bucket list. I'll be lurking for the elaborations. 
DanK


----------



## Tugboater78

Maur those are awesome!


----------



## mds2

Here is a really weird and ironic story. I took today off of work to spend the day with my grandpa. He's heading east for the winter shortly. Anyway I took him back to the town he's from so he could visit with his old friends before he left. We ended up in a really old hardware store. Grandpa told me his friend bought it right after they graduated from high school (Grandpa is 91). So while they were visiting I was looking around and grandpa's friend had a few old planes in a display case. He told me they were his fathers. One of them was a Stanley No. 98. I had never seen one before, and neither of them knew what it was for either. Grandpa has 75+ years experience as a woodworker.

So I showed them how I could look up anything in the world on my Iphone, and we all went away knowing that its a side rabbet plane. Really cool looking old tool. The one posted above is simply amazing.


----------



## jordanp

Here is the awesome smoother I received from tugboater


----------



## JayT

It's been said before, but is also my sentiment, so bears repeating.

There are so many awesome planes here, I would have been pleased to receive any of them. (But I'm not trading the one I received, it's too cool) Way to go LJ's!

What a successful event. A lot of people who had never built a plane joined in and learned something new. Those who had built before offered advice and assistance freely. New bonds were formed and a good time was had by all. Just what a swap is supposed to be.


----------



## Tugboater78

it makes me smile to see her put to work Jordan, i was nervous my recipient would have a nice shelf plane.


----------



## mochoa

Thanks guys!

MDS, great story man, I guess your grandpa might do the same thing with a piece of wood and sandpaper depending on how much needed to be removed but it wouldn't be as much fun.

+1 To what Jay says! These swaps are great and this one was very well run despite the complexity.


----------



## mochoa

Thats a sweet plane Tug, looks like a very versatile design. And the wood is beautiful.


----------



## Iguana

I just went and looked again at each plane in the projects page, and the variety is striking. A plane is a pretty simple concept - something to securely hold a blade so it can be passed over a block of wood with some accuracy - but the interpretation of how to achieve that and what it should look like has been expressed in a couple dozen unique ways. All of them look well executed, and judging from the volume of shavings shown in pictures, execute well.

Don W, thanks for organizing this. I'm inspired - already have plans for 3 more planes dancing around in my head. I need another plane about as much as I need another hole in my head, but anyone interested in a private swap?


----------



## rfusca

Here's mine: jatoba body, cocobolo cross pin, mora wedge.


----------



## LakeLover

No plane at the Post Office today.

No bandsaw parts at the Post Office today

No Irons I ordered in May.

Now I have to go out of town to the reno job and not sure when I will be back.

Mark. I need a router plane Hint. I may be interested, but let the dust settle a bit here..

Last fall I wanted to build a shed, which didn't happen. So last Friday a 12×8 shed with sideing and power outlets showed up for free. A friend of mine was stripping a property for a complete new house and he saved this shed for me. Handy to have a big skid steer and a low bed trailer.


----------



## jordanp

Sorry to hear that LakeLover,

I was hoping you would get it soon. :/


----------



## CFrye

You know, as much as I like the racing stripes and the contrasting woods and A&C details, the single wood (or closely matched wood) planes seem to say to me "Let's get to work! *That's* what I'm made for."


----------



## mochoa

I'm surprised we didnt see any router planes or chisel planes.


----------



## terryR

Maur, I considered a chisel plane, but was afraid it would be too simple for a gift. Sure want to make for my shop soon since they look very useful!


----------



## CFrye

That's me doing the happy dance! *Gorgeous* Wayne Anderson style infill jack plane with closed tote of blistered maple and Brazilian cherry arrived today from Fatandy2003! Wooden lever cap, dove tails, embedded Euro…
Pics tomorrow! I have a night shift to get thru. Talk about anticipation! Thank you Andy!!


----------



## LakeLover

Well I got out of the boonies for 2 days.

Bandsaw parts arrived.

The plane irons are shipped and the plane has cleared customs. checked the tracking # on USPS and Canada post site.

So just wondering ? How many customs guys know the diff between LV and LN planes ???  Hey Joe how was that Hock blade?

Sipping wine, waiting for my plane to come in, and planning the next assuault on the reno.

The Home owners knew a guy that does cellulouse dense pack insulation. Very rare around here. He did the 2×4 walls. Was I impressed. I only see it online at the building websites.

I had to put drywall on one bedroom wall, so they could soundproof it. Wow that goes fast and fills electric boxes etc like heck. Great system.

They blew r60 in the ceiling. Hmmmm warm.
I will put foil face ISO on the 2×4 walls. Gonna make that old house tight as a ….......

Part of this is a Gov rebate reno and they do a before and after blower door test.

An excellent local guy is doing a bang up job on Rand R the windows.


----------



## jordanp

Lakelover This is way too much build up for the lil ole plane I made ..


----------



## donwilwol

How many customs guys know the diff between LV and LN planes

LV, cool new design. touted as improved. Works well.

LN, more traditional design, touted as traditional, works well.

chose based on price, availability and what you consider cool.

I have a few of both, I like tradition, but both perform equal.


----------



## LakeLover

Talk about anticipation!

Can we talk about this?

Sigmond Freud wants to know.


----------



## donwilwol

This is me. I have to pee but don' want to miss Candy's plane post.


----------



## CFrye

Well, I just happen to have snapped a few pics before leaving for work…I wouldn't want Don to suffer needlessly…too much ;-)


----------



## Iguana

I'd be very afraid of spearing myself with the tail on that handle.


----------



## CFrye

Mark I test drove her this morning and am happy to report no injuries (to me, more about that in a minute)! 
Andy asked me to take pictures for him so he could steal, er I mean borrow, them for his project post so here goes:

















I'm afraid I've already dinged up some of the dovetails on the sole  Ideas, suggestions on fixing/minimizing/preventing?

















Hunk of seasoned oak fire wood BEFORE








and AFTER








She's pert near bigger than most of the "lumber" in my shop! She's a worker! I think I'll call her Jackie! 









Thank you Andy!!


----------



## donwilwol

they don't get much better looking than that.


----------



## WayneC

Very pretty.


----------



## mds2

That is a great plane. I love the handle.


----------



## Timbo

Nice wood! Looks like a great plane.


----------



## Wolfdaddy

That is stunning.


----------



## bobasaurus

Wow, that's an amazing looking plane. The dovetailed sides and infill-style knob and tote are fantastic.


----------



## Sanding2day

Work of art to be sure!


----------



## Mosquito

Ho-Ly Crap.

That is all, until I find my jaw to try to formulate more words.


----------



## fatandy2003

Candy,

Glad you like it. It was a blast to build. Sorry to hear about the dovetails, that was about the last thing I expected to go wrong  You may be able to use 2-part epoxy to fill the holes?

Cheers,


----------



## shelly_b

These are the awesome planes I got from Don W. As you can see they both work awesome I used the smoother to even up this huge maple panel and get rid of excess glue before sending it back through the planer. The board is 12×72in and this thing smoothed it down in no time. Glad to know that I can now plane to final length before gluing up because if it weren't too thick, this board was definitely smooth enough to use. The smoother works great too! Takes off just the right amount of shavings.


----------



## shelly_b

I mean, look how good that panel looks! That was about 5min of work after the glue dried. It wasn't the best glue up either. Boards that are 72in long and 1in thick don't give much. I can't even see the glue line. Thanks Don


----------



## CFrye

Nice Shelly!


----------



## DonBroussard

I made a few shavings with my swap plane from LJ grfrazee this afternoon. The shavings are from the edge of a piece of ash (glad I'm typing this and not trying to say it). The work wasn't productive in the sense that it isn't for a project piece-I did it just because I could and it was fun! I still don't have it dialed in to my satisfaction yet, but I'm getting closer. Thanks again, Glenn!


----------



## Iguana

That jack reminds me of a Chinese dragon - the angles and the curves flowing together with long tail and even a tongue hanging out in the front. Impressive amount of work on the shaping.


----------



## DaddyZ

I have to Say "Nice planes Everyone!!!!!!!!!!"


----------



## TerryDowning

I'm starting to hate reading this thread and truly regret getting in on the swap.

I just didn't have the bandwidth to commit.

Truly inspirational stuff on here. Really nice work from everyone!!


----------



## chrisstef

I second what Terry said. Kicking myself once again. Killer job to all of those who participated.


----------



## 7Footer

So many great looking planes.

Man I would love to do another plane swap! I think I'm going to *attempt* build my own shop made router plane see how that goes.

I remember reading something very early either in this thread or the swap the knowledge thread about it not being a good idea to tackle a *low* angle plane.. Can anyone elaborate on why is that much more difficult to make a low-angle plane than the traditional angled plane?


----------



## rfusca

Have we decided on the next swap yet? Somebody at one point suggested a small box swap. That would be awesome, imho.


----------



## CFrye

I'd hate to miss a swap now that I've started. I don't think I could do another until after Christmas.


----------



## jordanp

How about doing a measuring / layout tool swap… Tri square. Rulers. Framing squares, dividers plumb bob, marking knife, Awls, it would give us a very nice spectrum of possibilities.

I would so much rather it be tools that people will use to make other projects.


----------



## bobasaurus

Jordan, that sounds like a good idea. I like how open ended it is.


----------



## jordanp

Yea so even if someone missed the gauge swap they could jump in an make a gauge and receive a tri-square or something like that..

Make it all about Measurements - Marking and layout.

Some people may even end up with something that they don't even know existed, but still find very useful.


----------



## JayT

*7Footer*, I think the discussion about low angle wooden planes was not doing them bevel up because the 12 degree bedding angle would leave the wood under the iron too thin and weak. The way around it is to bed the iron at 37 degree angle bevel down-this gives the same cutting angle as a low angle metal plane (12 degree bed + 25 degree bevel). Mark Kornell's swap plane and my recently made rabbeting block plane both use this principle.

Hope that helps.


----------



## shelly_b

I like the idea of making tools to swap so we can put them to use. And all of the things made so far are things I have wanted to make myself and/or needed, but never actually did it. It's easier to start a project if it is for someone else…and there is a deadline lol.


----------



## 7Footer

Thanks JayT, I gotcha.. That makes sense. Do low angle planes not work as well with the bevel down (at 12 degrees)?


----------



## DaddyZ

Sounds like JordanP is volunteering to head the next swap.

Measuring Tool sounds good to me !!!


----------



## Hammerthumb

7footer - if your bevel was at 25deg and the bed at 12deg, and the bevel down, the cutting edge of the iron would not make contact with the wood. The end of the bevel where it meets the flat of the iron is what would contact first. Take an iron and lay it bevel down on a flat surface at 12deg. You will see what I am talking about.


----------



## 7Footer

Ok I see, sorry I'm still a newb to a lot of this, when JayT explained it I didn't think about how the iron would lay but now I can visualize it.. Thanks!


----------



## Iguana

7Footer - to hopefully add more clarification - there is a difference between "bevel-up" and "low angle".

The term "bevel-up" refers to the orientation of the plane iron. The only criteria is - is the bevel facing up?

The term "low angle" refers to the effective cutting angle at the tip of the iron being lower than normal. (Normal being 45°)

I will add two more terms:
(1) "bed angle" - which is the angle of the bed of the plane - the surface that the iron lays on.
(2) "bevel angle" - the angle at which the bevel is ground.

When you have a bevel-up plane, you add the bevel angle to the bed angle to get the effective cutting angle. Because of this addition, a plane designed for bevel-up use typically has the bed at a fairly low angle - 12° or 20°.

With a bevel-down plane, the effective cutting angle is simply the bed angle.

So, then, what really is a "low-angle" plane? Usually, that means a 37° effective cutting angle. That can be achieved with either a bevel-up or bevel-down plane. The one I made for this swap was a bevel-down, with a bed angle of 37°. Because it is bevel-down, the effective cutting angle is also 37°.

You can also have a bevel-up plane using a bed angle of 12° and a bevel angle of 25° to achieve a 37° effective cutting angle (e.g., the metal-bodied 60 1/2). Same end result, just a different way of achieving it.

The advantage of a bevel-up plane is that you can vary the effective cutting angle by changing the bevel angle of the iron. (Regrind it, or swap it for an iron with a different angle)


----------



## donwilwol

to add some more info, you can change the effective angle of a bevel down plane by adding a back bevel (secondary bevel). some (including myself) do not care for a secondary bevel, but others swear buy it.


----------



## CFrye

Stupid question time. Is it feasible on a wooden bodied plane to use the iron on either side of the pin by using a thicker wedge on the front side? 
Edit: Or maybe use another iron on the front?


----------



## shampeon

Candy: there's nothing preventing it in principle, but there are a bunch of issues that make it impractical:

the mouth of the plane would be toward the back of the plane instead of toward the front
the mouth opening might be too small or too large
chip ejection could be bad
the wedge might not hold


----------



## RPhillips

Good info there Mark, thanks for sharing.


----------



## CFrye

Thanks Ian, all that makes sense.


----------



## jordanp

Been quiet around here…......................................................................... What's everybody up to?


----------



## LakeLover

Thad Dahhhhhhhhhh

The plane and accessories. Great work there.

That iron is one beast. Thanks Rhett.

I left the camera in the truck overnight so I will recharge the batteries and get some shots.

All packed in shavings from the plane testing.

Thanks Jordan

Do I get a prize for the longest wait?


----------



## Sanding2day

Anxiously awaiting another swap  As Shelly stated I need a deadline for something other than my 70+ hour work weeks and current shop tinkering to take place…


----------



## RPhillips

I'm up for anything on the next swap. I liked jordan's idea of marking and measuring.


----------



## 7Footer

I kind of like the idea of a grease box swap, maybe you can even make your own concoction of grease to fill it with…. I didn't even know what a grease box was until a week ago when I saw Tugboater comment about one on Stef's State of the Shop Thread, then I found Mafe's blog about them, and then even weirder - a couple people posted projects of them the same day.


----------



## bobasaurus

I like the grease box idea a lot. Been meaning to build one of those for a long time.


----------



## DonBroussard

I missed the swaps before the marking gauge swap, so I'd be interested in a swap for a mallet or a marking knife or an awl. Feel free to post here or PM me if you're interested.


----------



## LakeLover

Ok This is it.

The box with shavings.

The contents that were well wrapped. A nice cover letter, The block plane, An iron that is a real iron sharp as heck. A nice adjusting hammer with an alum face on one side. and a iron holder.

Took a few minutes to fettle and got these shaving on a piece of birch. With some use I should be able to get a thinner shaving. It fits the palm well.


----------



## terryR

Congrats, LakeLover, that a nice looking plane and hammer!

So far, we've mostly been swapping each 4 months, which sounds like a long time, but look how many of us went down to the wire this time. Plus, we sorta picked Oct for this swap planning to skip the Holiday shipping craze, everyone on vacation, etc. for the next one. How does end of Feb sound for the next swap to end?

I liked how we voted prior to the marking gauge, even though I didn't vote gauge. 

I also like how we are all making the same thing, sort of, at the same time. Although a miscellaneous swap would be Ok with me if we can stick to just measuring and marking, or one 'category' of tool. I've never made a grease box, so that interests me, just like a square. Then again, another mallet swap could be cool, and no one has enough knives.

Guess we need a new leader…and more discussion?


----------



## chrisstef

Fwiw i love my greasebox. Its always on my bench. Ive refilled it 3 times all ready. I may not be able to participate but id vouch highly for the frequency in which i use mine.


----------



## CFrye

Great box of goodies there Lakelover!! The blade holder? Lidded wooden box to store the iron? That plane looks really comfortable to push. 
So has everyone gotten their planes? 
Is there a way to edit my project post so It can be included with the rest?


----------



## DonBroussard

@Candy-Go to your project itself, and click "Edit" in red. Modify your post as needed-if you want to add the tag "plane swap", navigate to the bottom and add the tag. After you're finished editing, click "Save" and the changes will be posted.


----------



## CFrye

Thanks Don! I was searching all over the bottom and the left side for that. I am *NOT* that mom on TV that knows where everybody's stuff is! LOL


----------



## RPhillips

Oh, I like the idea of a grease box too. This is on my short list to do.

FYI… my short list is actually very long lol

...and NO, she never said that.


----------



## LakeLover

What is a grease box ?


----------



## chrisstef

Grease box / tallow box. Its a little sliding lid type thingy that holds either tallow or wax. Ive currently got paste wax in mine but I would like to mix up a batch of beeswax/mineral oil and get it in there. I use it on the soles of my planes, saw plates, cast iron tops, etc for a smooth rust inhibiting surface.


----------



## WayneC

Also makes the tool and wood move more efficiently. E.g. makes handplaning and sawing easier. Wood slide across a table saw easier, etc.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I was sure Stef was gonna define a "grease box" as his mother-in-law or something


----------



## jordanp

I'm glad you like it LakeLover, That plane does take a bit of adjustment to get set but once you get it locked in she's good to go. She's pretty much an apron/utility block plane comfy and sharp!

The little plane iron box was an 11th hour creation, since I didn't have the funds to get a bunch of exotic wood for my build I decided to try and include something that I hadn't seen before.


----------



## donwilwol

So is there anybody that should have received a plane that didn't?


----------



## DaddyZ

I am open for whatever swap !!


----------



## TerryDowning

What is a grease box ?

I had the same question

I started reading about it here and Here

Looks like an interesting swappable item


----------



## WayneC

I'm still voting for a scratch stock even though I got my hands on a #66…


----------



## 7Footer

They are intriguing little suckers aren't they? Mafe's write-up of their history is great too… I did the same thing last week, I even Googled grease box before searching here and Google still brought up Mafe's blog as the first result! I also found this, Grease Recipes


----------



## RPhillips

Seems like this might be a good little project that most of us can fit in around the approaching holidays.

My vote is for a Grease Box Swap! 

Now to find a a willing host…


----------



## CFrye

Wayne, I had to Google 'scratch stock' and found this video . Then, hubby brought home the Nov. 2013 issue of Popular Woodworking which had an article "5 Favorite Jigs" by Chuck Bender. One of the 5 is a shop made beader (aka scratch stock). Hmmm omen? 
Another of the jigs is a plane sharpening stick.
Edit: link to article on line here.


----------



## jordanp

I'm digging all the ideas, grease pot, scratch stock, marking and measuring tools.. Do I sense a voting poll coming soon?


----------



## jordanp

Ahh what the heck lets test the waters

This isn't official, or is it?

Here's a voting poll

Vote for the next swap


----------



## Tugboater78

Who wants to take the lead on another swap, i would try but my achedule would make it extremely difficult to organize.


----------



## RPhillips

Scratch Stock would be an awesome Swap as well.

I had no idea what the heck one was until Candy posted up that link.

Maybe this will help for those like me:


----------



## RPhillips

Oh, didn't see your voting pole link there Jordan.

Tough choice. I'd be down with any of these TBH, but I choose one.


----------



## donwilwol

it looks like Jordon has volunteered to take on the next swap. Go Jordan!!


----------



## terryR

Same thoughts here…will be happy making any of the above…but I voted! 

Jordan, I hereby nominate YOU for the swap moderator…any seconds of the motion?


----------



## ShaneA

Seconded….Jordan, Jordan, Jordan!


----------



## terryR

...All in favor…"AYE!"

Looks official, Jordan! Start making rules, buddy…


----------



## waho6o9

Go Jordan Go


----------



## fatandy2003

It FINALLY got here! The plane from rfusca is a beaut! Unfortunately, I can't get in the shop to try it out until after the weekend… but here it is:



























Thanks a lot Chris! Can't wait to take it for a spin.


----------



## WayneC

+100 Jordan. 

I voted.


----------



## jordanp

Crap. Lol

//Tips hat//

ok I guess everyone should vote and I guess this is Official..

I have no Idea what i'm doing by the way…...


----------



## terryR

Jordan, you can do it, bud! 

As a previous moderator, And as a swapper who was left out during the marking gauge swap, ( until DonB stepped up, Thanks, again!), I would beg for strict rules as far as dealing with participants. Don's method of sending in a completed photo worked great, but sure looked difficult on his end?


----------



## WayneC

Hmmm. Wonder if I should get all of my FB friends to vote for my favorite… lol


----------



## DaddyZ

Voted, Go Jordan !!!!


----------



## Mosquito

depending on the time frame, I may not be able to make this one


----------



## donwilwol

Andy, that looks like a nice plane. Well done Chris.


----------



## terryR

Andy, nice score with that plane AND pen. I like the grip on the pen, rfuska, Jatoba or Cocobolo?

Too late, Wayne, I placed a script on the page that won't let a re-direct from FB to vote! LOL

Edit…whatzup Mos, not like you are getting married or anything?


----------



## Sanding2day

Voted, and anticipatory thanks to Jordan on the universal voluntold stepping up to get this party started…


----------



## rfusca

Cocobolo


----------



## jordanp

It wouldn't be the same without you Mosquito!


----------



## Mosquito

got a commitment for a project to get done before Christmas, as well as prepping for moving probably not long after that. We'll see, though. Might depend on what it is, and how long we have to do it


----------



## DaddyZ

as in real life,

wouldn't be the same without a buzzer around being a pain in the a…..rm.


----------



## CFrye

Voted! Thanks/Congrats Jordan! Chris, did you turn the pen and pin at the same time? That's a beautiful desk/bench set you have there Andy!


----------



## WayneC

I added another forum topic asking for votes.


----------



## Boatman53

I voted, way to go Jordan!
Jim


----------



## jordanp

I just had a nasty thought ( No Pun intended ) a Wooden hand brace swap!!
We could call it "Tool Swap of your nightmares!"

I Digress 
Anyways Let's end the poll this coming Wednesday by then I will have some rules and guidelines drawn up.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^A lot of the leg work/guidelines have been established. I bet Don can give you a good start.


----------



## jordanp

Yea it won't be too bad, But if everyone votes on "measuring/Marking/Layout tool" there should be a list made of acceptable tools etc etc then we can hash out time frame and what not.


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## RPhillips

Jordan, you're the man. Thanks for stepping up and doing this.


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## bondogaposis

I really like how Don ran this one in that nobody got "stiffed" as has happened in the previous swaps to a few folks. At least I don't think anybody did on this one.


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## DaddyZ

For He's a jolly good Jordan.

for he's a jolly good Jordan.

Cheers, cheers, cheers !!!


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## jordanp

Well i'm going to "Attempt" to make a few extra items just in case for this one, If anyone else wants to do the same it will be appreciated.


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## jordanp

Hey Don W could you add the link to the voting poll at the top and mention that voting ends this coming Wednesday?


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## rfusca

Shouldn't make a new post for the poll? Folks who weren't interesting in the handplanes may be interested in the next one.


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## jordanp

Already done

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/54481


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## LakeLover

I voted.

Going to check out the grease box links. thanks folks.

Jordan just imagine how you can put " Swap Master" on your resume. You may get some interesting job offers…..


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## terryR

...OK…turned, lidded grease box completed…sycamore and maple…didn't want to be last this time…










huh? marking and measuring won the vote?


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## Airframer

Yep, but look at it this way.. the next one may be grease pots and you are now WAY ahead lol.


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## terryR

^oh crap, maybe I shouldn't have posted that photo…you're right, Eric!


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## bobasaurus

That's a nice little turned box. I've never tried to make one myself… do you turn the lid separately after parting it off, and just creep up on a fit? I want one for holding paste wax.


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## terryR

Thanks, Allen, yes they are turned separately. Lots more on Google than I could type in an hour. Just search turned boxes. They are tougher than they look.


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## CFrye

Nicely done Terry! Now you can apply to MAFE's GBOC. I, too, would like to know your process of turning this gem.
Edit: You answered while I was typing. Thanks.


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## donwilwol

Yes, and it looks so much better than the dollar store candle jars I use for my wax.


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## jordanp

Very Nice Terry.. How much for one?


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## terryR

I'm not sure they would hold wax well, guys. The lid is too loose, but OK I bet for some cotton wrags and Camelia oil. LOL

Jordan, PM coming your way…


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## jordanp

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/54712

BUMP. The Rules have been posted for the next swap, guys and gals.

I tried to please as many people as i could with these rules..

Have fun, Make saw dust…….


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## Iguana

Resurrecting an old thread. Just wanted to say that I've finally fixed the plane Greg sent me.

Blog entry here: http://lumberjocks.com/Iguana/blog/39975

The plane is pretty sweet. Here's the test drive picture, in which I'm planing against the grain without realizing it:


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