# Good splitter solution for saws without a riving knife



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I've got one of those I bought last spring that I still haven't installed. Thanks for the reminder.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Heh, we are (were) in the same boat. I have that kit still sitting in my TS accessory drawer from 5 years ago. I keep thinking about installing it but always find something "more fun" to do 8^)


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## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

I have been using one for a while now but I just got a new Shark Guard for Christmas and I am in the process of installing it.
I liked my MJ Splitter but I also wanted some dust collection options. For now I will use both and maybe in the future too.

My factory guard was junky at best and didn't last a week before I tossed it in the shed.
I still won't have a riving knife but I will have multiple splitters and better dust collection.

Thank you for your review.


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## Mike_D_S (May 3, 2012)

I'd be interested to know how you like the shark guard when you get it installed.


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## Artie623 (Oct 13, 2018)

I returned the MJ splitter…. The instructions could throw a snag or two at you (I write instructions for a living…sorry)... and it just wasn't the "dream solution" it was touted to be. The answer to tablesaw safety ?... I just ordered a SawStop…. it's not worth screwing around with my physical well being… hopefully the thing will never kick-in !


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## Mike_D_S (May 3, 2012)

I'm not sure anyone would say this is the be all end all of table saw safety. But it's definitely a step in the right direction if you started out not running a splitter at all.

I would point out that there is nothing magical about a Sawstop from a binding/kickback point of view. The Sawstop magic is in reducing injuries from contacting the blade with a part of your body. It's not going to be better or worse than any other splitter/riving knife saw in terms of kickback and you still need to be aware and follow normal precautions to avoid a kickback related injury even if you don't have to worry so much about the blade itself.

Mike


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## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

> I m not sure anyone would say this is the be all end all of table saw safety. But it s definitely a step in the right direction if you started out not running a splitter at all.
> 
> I would point out that there is nothing magical about a Sawstop from a binding/kickback point of view. The Sawstop magic is in reducing injuries from contacting the blade with a part of your body. It s not going to be better or worse than any other splitter/riving knife saw in terms of kickback and you still need to be aware and follow normal precautions to avoid a kickback related injury even if you don t have to worry so much about the blade itself.
> 
> ...


That's a good point Mike. I would buy a Saw-Stop if I could afford one but even as great as that machine appears to be, if you set it up wrong, it can and will kick a board back at you. I have had two 8 quarter planks display internal stress when ripping that caused me to stop the saw and finish ripping them on the band saw instead. That is a spooky thing when it happens.
After ripping on the BS and then letting the boards rest, I was able to rip them to final size safely on the table saw.


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## Mike_D_S (May 3, 2012)

I keep a couple of T's from oak scrap on my TS fence. They are about 2 inches long and with a 1/4 top on the T and the leg of the T is about 3/32. When I 'm ripping and see a piece starting to close up a bit, I drop one of those in the kerf 5 or 6" behind the blade and it helps keep the kerf open. It gets me through those cuts where it's not binding the blade, but it is scoring the back of the cut and throwing extra sawdust over the top.


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## fivecodys (Dec 2, 2013)

> I keep a couple of T s from oak scrap on my TS fence. They are about 2 inches long and with a 1/4 top on the T and the leg of the T is about 3/32. When I m ripping and see a piece starting to close up a bit, I drop one of those in the kerf 5 or 6" behind the blade and it helps keep the kerf open. It gets me through those cuts where it s not binding the blade, but it is scoring the back of the cut and throwing extra sawdust over the top.
> 
> - MikeDS


That's very clever. I'm going to have to try that. Thanks!


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## michelletwo (Feb 22, 2010)

Mike: I installed a sharguard "riving knife" on my 35 yr old delta contractor saw. VAST improvement. I also got the cover and hooked up dust collection. Wish I had done it yrs ago. love it.


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## Mike_D_S (May 3, 2012)

Maybe I had never really read the instructions, but I assumed the Sharkguard installed like the stock splitter and with my table saw/outfeed bench setup I cant really use the stock setup.

But going back over the instructions last night it looks like it replaces the spring clip in the front, so I may be rethinking a Sharkguard for myself.

Mike


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

ive had one on my saw for a couple years now,works great and is easy to use.if you dont need it they pop out.i found setting it up to be no problem at all,they even give you the bit to drill the holes.for saws that dont have riving knives this is a great solution.


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## jimintx (Jan 23, 2014)

> I keep a couple of T s from oak scrap on my TS fence. They are about 2 inches long and with a 1/4 top on the T and the leg of the T is about 3/32. When I m ripping and see a piece starting to close up a bit, I drop one of those in the kerf 5 or 6" behind the blade and it helps keep the kerf open. It gets me through those cuts where it s not binding the blade, but it is scoring the back of the cut and throwing extra sawdust over the top.
> - MikeDS


I do the same with a couple of wedge-shaped shims. Works great for me.

I think it is really important for t-saw users to realize that the sawstop system does not prevent kickbacks, as fivecodys stated. Many people write about it as if that threat is removed, and thinking that to be true is a potential danger in itself.


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