# The Restoration of a 14" Tenon Saw



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

*Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*

In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…

I really wanted one of these (Adria Large Tenon Saw 14"x 4")










…but didn't have enough of this:










So over a number of weeks, I trawled through eBay.co.uk, until I finally found and bought this…










The saw plate is 14" long and the saw is 18 ½" overall. It has an iron back and is made by *W. Tyzack, Sons & Turner*. It is filed 10 TPI (11 PPI) rip and has a cutting depth of 3 5/8". By the look of it, I don't think it has ever been re-sharpened.

Whenever I buy old saws, I always try to find out as much about them as I possibly can. However, anyone who has tried to date an old saw knows that it is fraught with error, often frustrating and difficult to arrive at a dependable conclusion. Nonetheless, I had to try. So, let me share with you what my investigations revealed concerning this wonderful old saw, because this saw holds an interesting secret.

The Tyzack family, of which there are many branches, were heavily involved in the Sheffield tool making industry from 1849 right up until 1989. If you are interested, you can read a family history here.

The W. Tyzack that we are interested in was a son of the founder (also called William). In 1870, William Junior took a partner, one Benjamin Turner. Benjamin was no stranger to William as he was married to his sister Ann. Their company then became known as W. Tyzack, Sons & Turner. In 1876 they purchased 12 acres of land and built the Little London works. (nowhere near London by the way, still just outside Sheffield at a place called Heeley, right next to the railway tracks).










The elephant became their trademark. *Non Pareil* translates to '*without equal*' or '*unparalleled*'.










I found a trade catalogue from 1921 which shows a later model of this saw, known then as a No.13 back saw. In 1921 you could buy a dozen of these saws for 64 shillings. The saw hasn't changed much, but the handle profile is slightly different.










Just in case you can't read the catalogue text above, allow me to dwell for a moment on the consumer choice that was available when ordering a new back saw in 1921. The choice was London Spring Steel with a Brass back, London Spring Steel with an Iron back, Cast Steel with a Brass back, or Cast Steel with an Iron back.

The saw could be anything from 10" to 24" in length, going up in 2" intervals. You could also order an extra heavy brass or iron back to go with the saws in the 10" to 16" range (I guess the longer saws were heavy enough). They were fitted with English beech handles which came with polished edges and flat brass screws as standard. For an extra 6 shillings you could have the flats of the handle polished as well and get raised brass screws. For an extra 8 shillings per dozen, you could have Mahogany or Rosewood handles and an extra 20 shillings per dozen bought you ebony handles. You could also just buy the saw plate set and sharpened for 2 old pennies per inch of length. What a wonderful time this must have been to shop for a new back saw, especially when you consider that this amount of choice was offered by just one of a number of saw manufacturers around at the time.

So what is this saw's secret I hear you ask. Well this saw bears an inscription on the saw plate. The inscription reads:* Made for J. Duckworth, Bolton*.










I thought it would be fun to try and find out who J Duckworth was and at times like this, the internet is your friend. It would have been easier had I known his first name, but at least I knew the surname and where he came from; a town in the county of Lancashire called Bolton. I tried James, John, Jeremiah, Jacob, Joshua and one of the last names I tried was Joseph. This is what I came up with from the marriage register of the parish church of St Peter, Great Bolton in the county of Lancashire. This historical church still stands proudly in the centre of the town.




























So not only was Joseph Duckworth a saw maker, but so was his son Herbert and the bride's father was a sawyer. How cool is that?

Now I know what you're thinking. If Joseph was a saw maker, why didn't he make his own saw? Well I don't think that Joseph or Herbert were saw makers in the same sense that William Tyzack, sons & Turner were saw makers. They weren't men of means. I doubt they had their own company or even their own line of saws. They probably worked for a company like Tyzacks or Spear & Jackson. I also find the words *Made for* in the inscription interesting. If someone bought this saw for Joseph as a present or a retirement gift, wouldn't it have been better to say Presented to?

I can't find anything to suggest that Tyzacks made saws as special orders with inscriptions, but maybe they did and Joseph ordered his own saw. The romantic in me would like to think that young Herbert did his apprenticeship at Tyzacks and made this saw for his dad as a demonstration of his saw-making skills and to show his old man that he had come of age as a saw maker.

In truth, I guess I'll never know if the above product of my imagination is fact or fiction, or even if I found the right J. Duckworth. I do think it is kind of cool though to have a wonderful Tyzack tenon saw that was made for a saw maker called Joseph Duckworth. So with apologies to real historians everywhere, this will be my saw's story until someone provides evidence to the contrary. From this day forth this saw will affectionately be known as *BIG JOE*, as in "*I'll have to fetch Big Joe to cut those tenons.*" 

Taking all this into account along with some other evidence that I won't bore you with, I estimate this saw was made some time between 1880-1910. I have been unable to narrow it down any further than that.

So with a new found respect for both saw and maker, in the next part of this blog I'll show you how she looks after a little love.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Brit a very interesting post to have read, nice work on all the research and the best part is you have the genuine article the saw. Thanks for sharing the historical part as well as your fine saw…BC


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


very nice saw, very cool story. I love the story's (true or perceived) that go with these old tools. Its going to be hard not to wonder about the projects made with this saw, or what a wedding night was like in1898 in Bolton, Lancaster, England.

Also I noticed "The saw could be anything from 10" to 24" in length" ..... your going to NEED the set!!


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## Visions (Sep 12, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Now that's an awesome story! whether it is 100% true or not matters little. The fact is you found a saw with an inscription, researched it, and found what I feel is a very possible history of where the saw came from. That's an incredible story all in itself!

The fact is as well, it is documented that those you believe originally had the saw at the start of it's life were saw-makers from the town inscribed on the saw. I feel that would be evidence enough for most, as long you weren't trying to use it as any kind of historical provenance to raise the value of the saw at sale time.

And even still, with paperwork on the Duckworth's past as you have found, you have a very nice saw with a very interesting story to go with it. I think all but the most particular of collectors would find that very intriguing and be very happy to call that saw their own.

I know it would be a very welcome addition to my shop!

Great story and great find! Please be sure to post more after it has seen some love!


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## Arminius (Dec 27, 2007)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


My guess is that Duckworth was a seller of saws, and while Duckworths may once once have made their own, by this era was more of a retailer. A 'made for' inscription for that purpose is not at all uncommon among American saws, and is certainly seen on some English saws.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


*blackcherry* - Thanks. Its amazing what you can find out from the compfort of your armchair. I found the marriage records for some of Joseph Duckworth's other children too. I had to stop myself building a family tree. LOL. God bless all the historians and researchers who have laboured to put historical records online for all of us to enjoy.

*Don* - I would think a wedding night in Bolton, Lancashire was much like any other wedding night once the clothes came off. ) I have so many saws to restore now, I'm going to have to stop buying them until I've caught up a bit. Then again, maybe I'll just get the two that are currently in my watch list.

*Kenny* - Glad you found it interesting. It is a bit far fetched I have to admit, but it was a heck of a lot of fun. I found out all kinds of things along the way.

*Arminius* - You are probably right about the Duckworths being resellers. They probably ran a hardware shop and did nothing more than put the saws together from parts purchased from W. Tyzacks, sons and Turner.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


I've got a box full of saws, a shelf full of planes and a rack full of braces. Next weekend is a big antique fair I just can't pass up. At least its fall here in the North East USA. That means flea markets will be coming to an end for a while. Happy hunting.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Well they say that there's always someone worse off than yourself, so I guess its true.


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## Arminius (Dec 27, 2007)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


They might well have been saw makers as well, but one would not sell that many tenon saws and they would be a high-end item. I have a R. Groves carcass saw with a somewhat similar stamp from circa 1850. The firm that sold it made saws for the lumber industry in Quebec, importing steel from Sheffield to manufacture the larger and cruder saws. Bringing a fine English saw across the Atlantic would have been a very special order, and the saw would have been a major investment for a craftsman who would have waited the better part of a year for it. I feel privileged to use it. I hope your Tyzack gives you the same satisfaction.

By the way, with the split nuts, I am guessing yours is rather older than the 1921 catalogue..


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## pierce85 (May 21, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Great detective work, Brit! What a nice way to bring a saw to life.

Regarding the occupational history. A 'Saw Maker' in 19th century England was listed as a specific occupation in the census during that period. Here's how it was classified in 1881:









(Source: Woollard, Matthew. 1999. "The Classification of Occupations in the 1881 Census of England and Wales." Historical Censuses and Social Surveys Research Group Occasional Paper No. 1, University of Essex: Historical Censuses and Social Surveys Research Group.)

By the way, 19th century history is one of things I do. So I'm naturally drawn to this sort of thing. My specific area of research is 19th century medicine, causes of death and disease. I only mention this because when I see such a great job of historical detective work like Brit has shown here, it gets my juices flowing and I'm compelled to look at/for sources for more tidbits. Nicely done, Brit.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


*pierce85* - It is interesting, because during my research on this saw and another 14" backsaw which is quite a bit older than this one, I formed the opinion that the term 'saw maker' meant one of three things.

1) Manufacturers such as Spear and Jackson and Tyzacks would call themselves saw makers.

2) Prior to much of the work being done by machinery, a saw went through a number of different stages with each stage being carried out by a different trade. For example there were wet grinders, dry grinders, saw handle makers (which was a year apprenticeship on its own) and saw makers who were the people who adjusted the temper of the saws through hammering. It was a skilled job, but just one of a number of steps that led to a finished saw.

3) Saw resellers like Arminius mentioned would also call themselves saw makers.

It is difficult to know which definition applies to a person who listed saw maker as their profession.


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## pierce85 (May 21, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


You're right. It is difficult to pinpoint exactly what that occupational designation meant for a particular individual at a particular point in history because 'Saw Maker' was a classification term used by census takers. As a result, it became an official occupational title for most record keeping of the day.

What you're seeing in these records are occupational titles according to a census classification. Nevertheless, out of nearly 420 occupational titles used by the census at that time, it would have certainly been descriptive enough. In fact, the title was probably too narrow - which, by the way, points to what Arminius was saying.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


I see Sherlock "Andy" Holmes is still alive and kicking in England. How neat! Actually I think having the Duckworth saw is a better deal than a brand new one. Great thread, Andy.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Elementary my dear Rand. Now where did I put that violin?


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Don't forget the pipe with the lid on it. lol ala Mafe…..


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


I really enjoyed reading this. Nice blog and great detective work.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Thanks Mauricio. I thought I'd try to put a different slant on a restoration and learnt a lot in the process.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Andy you are wonderful!
I love the saw and the story.
I also love that church.
It is amazing what the internet brings us of info, I just got a Japanese plane today with inscriptions, but I think I will give up searching Japanese sites…
What are the plans this week?
Best thoughts,
Mads


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Mads - Yes I'd be lost on Japanese sites too.
This week I am entertaining some people from Poland.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Smiles.
Oki doki buddy we will have a rain check.


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## Woodfix (May 14, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Great story. I have an old tenon saw out in the shed. I will have to have a closer look at it. The history I do know is, it was part a tool kit for a Australian Army carpenter. I bought the entire kit with easily 100 tools in it for $70 at an auction. That is what started my interest in woodworking, what were all these things used for and how and how do I sharpen them.

Well done.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Woodfix, I cant think of a better way to get into woodworking!


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


I had a result last week and scored Big Joe's little brother (12"). What are the chances eh?


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Amazing, the chances are quite big since you spend quite some E-bay time… lol
I think acually if you spend as much time on your beloved she would buy you saws (don't show her this).
Best thoughts my dear and lucky Andy.
It's beautiful - the saw.


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## StumpyNubs (Sep 25, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


I'm considering buying a #13 from this same company today. It's a small (8" blade) closed handle saw. What do you think of thew quality of these saws? Are the blades thin enough for dovetails?


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


*StumpyNubs* - Can you post a link to the saw you are thinking of buying?

I can't comment on how the saw performs yet as I haven't finished restoring and sharpening it. I'd be surprised if they didn't cut well though. You don't stay in the saw making business for 140 years like they did if your saws are crap.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Andy, I can see the grain on that handle before you even start. That's going to be* "NICE"*


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## planepassion (Nov 24, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Identification, Historical Evidence and a Vivid Imagination*
> 
> In this blog series, I'd like to invite you to join me on a journey of discovery as we look at the history and restoration of an old English back saw. This is where the story starts…
> 
> ...


Interesting story. I'm revisiting your blogs to take in the rich history. Looks like you have the cast steel version. I really like the elephant logo. That's cool.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

*Cleaning the Saw Plate*

This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).










I start by spraying the plate with the degreaser. I have found that the rust remover works better on the first application if the surface has been degreased first.










Wait 5 minutes…










Wipe the surface with kitchen roll. Then repeat for the other side.










Apply the Hammerite Rust Removal gel liberally.










After 20 minutes I dip the green scouring pad in water…










…and gently rub along the length of the plate. The black staining and any rust comes off in no time at all.










Then I washed the surface with a paper towel dipped in clean water and repeated the process on the other side of the saw plate.










With the rust and grime removed, it was time to start polishing the plate with wet & dry paper used dry. I went through the grits using long strokes along the plate. The grits used were P120, P180, P240, P320, P400, P600 and finally P800. I used a wooden block with the P120 and P180 grits. The other grits were used without the block. This was the result.










I like a shiny saw plate on my back saws. I use the reflection in the plate to line up my saw cuts so that I know when I'm cutting at 90 degrees and 45 degrees without having to mark the wood.










I might polish this a little bit more, but my arms were aching so I called it a day for the time being.










In Part 3, I turn my attention to the saw handle.

Thanks for watching.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


look, i can see myself. Nice.


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## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


Nice job! Can't wait to see the wood restore.


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


And a "non pareil" saw as on top of the shine.. well done !
A bit of Brit history preserved ..

;-)}


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## ShopTinker (Oct 27, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


Very impressive restoration. I've never expected to see a saw that was reflective.


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## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


Excellent job preserving such an important saw. Your technique works very well!


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## tsangell (Jan 10, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


Awesome. I love an old tool.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


Andy. should you ever feel the need to come to the states you can swing by my place and help my make some of my tools as shiny as yours.

I own a B&B so I could probably make it worth your while.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the compliments guys. My arms and shoulder are killing me today after all that rubbing. This saw needed a lot of work on the back side because there were two areas that were lower than the rest of the plate. I had to effectively take the rest of the plate down to that level whilst keeping it flat and an even thickness. You can just see the areas in question in the following photo. There's a name for this phenomenum, but it escapes me now.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


Ryan - That's a tempting offer, if I ever escape from Denmark.


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## Arminius (Dec 27, 2007)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


That is really first-rate work. I will have to figure out what a North American match for the Hammerite is, but the degreaser is a very good idea.


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


Naval Jelly is the US version.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


Escape from Denmark? Laugh.
Andy you are the master! I am always impressed to see what results you come up with, it is probably more shiny than when it was sold out the maker a long time ago.
What really bothers me is to see how much more effective the rust remover is at your place… It might be the degrease phase, since for me it is much more pitted and uneven after this remover.
Glad to see you are working on that sexy bench of yours again, but a little sad that you have upgrated the surface now… perhaps you could follow one of the cuttingboard blogs and make a really sexy top! Smiles.
Andy yóu are the master of rust removal, no doubt! Impressive work you have done.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


*Mads* - It can't be more pitted afterwards, its only rust remover and I take you mean uneven in colour, not that the surface is uneven. Next time I visit, bring out your worst rust and I'll give you a demo.

By the way, good idea to upgrade the workmate top with a cutting board. I'll get to work on my Sketchup design. It shouldn't take more than a week to come up with something. I think I need some dark wood and some light wood. I'll cut up both pieces then glue them back together in a different order. Tricky, but I think my skills are up to it now. ;-)

If anyone other than Mads is reading this, the previous paragraph is a private joke between me and Mads. Don't ask.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


And I just almost hit the ground from my chair while laughing!


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## TelescopeMaker (Feb 17, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


Okay, this is nearly 10 years old, but it is exactly what I have been looking for. I don't know why I did all that googling last night, and found what I was looking for right here on Lumberjocks.

Thanks a lot for this.

I actually started coming to hand tools more and more in the last 5 years. But with Covid-19, I had to pretty much stop powered tools. The last thing I wanted was to risk being in the hospital with a lopped off hand and get the 'rona.

So the other day we got our first vaccination, and we had to travel far to do that - two hours to the north Georgia mountains. It was a beautiful spring day here, and the first time I'd been that far from the house in a year. And since we were up where all the good antique stores are, we made a day of it. I walked away with a round carvers mallet, a wide and serviceable wooden skew plane, and a large and heavy carcass saw - rip.

The mallet was brand new - still coated with beeswax. But for $8, compared to the $80 at Woodcraft, it was a steal, and I didn't have to waste time making my own. The skew plan is wide enough that I will likely be able to add an adjustable fence to it.

But the carcass saw needs work. It is discolored, and not bright at all. There is going to be some pitting, I am sure. But like you, I like to have my saws shiny, so that I can use the reflection to aid cutting. And even if I get this thing shiny, I was wondering how to get the stains out.

I'm talking about the black stains that are left over after you get the red rust stains off. Maybe this will do the job? I sure hope so.


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## TelescopeMaker (Feb 17, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


So I started this. From 120 I went down to 2000 (simply because I had it leftover from my old scary sharp station). There was minor shallow pitting, but I do have a good reflection now. On one side at least. I put some oil on it before I left to keep it from surface flashing. It is amazing how fast it can get a fine amount of rust. 1/2 hour in the summer humidity. My arms really gave out though, so tomorrow I'll do the other side.

Mine has no maker's marks at all. The medallion is "Standard Warranted" about as common as it gets. So I think what I will do is research how to etch it, and put my own design on the plate when I'm done.

While I was at it, I de-rusted my grandfather's old square. It has the proportions of a framing square, but the long leg is 6". It looks really nice now, and I can even see the markings - 1/32". And when I say I can "see" them, it's metaphorical. I can sse them about as good as my grandfather could, which isn't saying much . He got them in a swap back around 1912, so it was old even by then. It's nice to hold and use history like that.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


Glad you found it useful.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


That's what I was talking about, to inspire, your saw blogs has been a great inspiration to many.
Smiles my friend,
Mads


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


Thanks Mads. Haven't got much time for LJs or woodworking ATM. Trying to get my landscaping project in by back garden completed. A few more months and it should be done.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


You have to send me some pictures of that project, I have heard a lot, from your daughter also, so I have a load of self created images in my head. Now the weather is soon perfect for the garden again, right now more for being active out there, than relaxing.
Smiles.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Cleaning the Saw Plate*
> 
> This saw plate is remarkably well preserved for its age, but it could benefit from a clean. I gathered the stuff I thought I might need, but all I used was the 3-IN-ONE degreaser foam, the Hammerite Rust Removal Gel, the green scouring pad, kitchen roll, and wet and dry paper (more than you see in the picture below).
> 
> ...


Mads - You will receive an email from WeTransfer.com saying that I've sent you some files to view or something like that. Follow the link and you will be able to download a PowerPoint presentation which takes you on a whistle stop tour of the construction of my garden project up to where we are at today. Still got a little way to go, but we should have it done by summer.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

*Restoring the Saw Handle*

Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.

The handles in the following photograph from two other saws in my possession illustrate some of the detailing. The handle on the right is from a backsaw made by W H Armitage & Co. around 1849 and the one on the left is from a saw made by W. Tyzack, Sons & Turner in 1887, but sold through a reseller in Newcastle upon Tyne, by the name of Cowell & Chapman. It is exactly the same as the handle on the saw I am restoring (no I'm not going to just swap them out ) ). You can tell a lot about the age of a saw by studying the handle, but that's a subject for another post.










Sadly many of these features began to disappear as skilled craftsman were replaced by machinery. The need to compete on price and streamline production eventually saw an end to the wonderful detailing and tool marks displayed on 19th century back saws.

In my mind at least, out of respect for the men who made them, refinishing one of these old handles is not something that should be rushed. This is not the domain of belt sanders and Dremels. Rather it is an opportunity to move rasp and file where once they moved theirs, to retrace the angles and curves that make these handles so appealing.

The handle on '*Big Joe*' isn't too bad. I've certainly seen a lot worse. However since the finish is cracked and rough to the touch, I decide to take it back to bare wood and refinish it.



















There are two areas in particular that will need repairing. The first is a chip to one of the cheeks just below the bottom saw nut.










The other is a chip on the lamb's tongue where it touches the plate.










Before I can repair these two chips I first have to get the handle back to bare wood. I'm probably missing a few photos here, but my process was as follows:

1) Clean the handle with methylated spirit to remove any ground in dirt.
2) Hand sand as many surfaces as I could starting with P80 grit, then moving through P120, P240 and finally P320.
3) Then I broke out the files and started to restore the detailing such as the clip, lamb's tongue, chamfer stop, v-groove, the horns, the hook and the top nib. I still have to do the chamfer stop on the side of the handle shown below, but I've done the one on the other side as you'll see later.










I repaired the chip below the saw nut by paring the area flat and squaring the edges with a chisel. Then I cut a slice out of the middle of some beech dowelling. I pared the slice to fit and glued it in place, making sure to align the rays correctly. After it was dry, I sanded it flush.



















I also started cleaning up the saw nuts and the medallion using brass polish.










I've still got a bit more cleaning to do on the medallion and I'll clean out the slots in the nuts with a flat needle file, but they're coming on.










Once I've repaired the chip on the lamb's tongue, re-established the chamfer stop on the back side and sanded the whole thing to P400, I'll be ready to apply the finish. So far though, I'm quite pleased with how it looks and I've learnt a lot about what went into making these wonderful handles.










In the next post, I'll apply the finish and reassemble the saw.

Thanks for watching.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


wow that looks good. I'm looking forward to the finish.


----------



## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


As usual Andy..
Non Paraeil !


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


Thanks gents. I'm looking forward to the finish as well.


----------



## SamuelP (Feb 26, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


Fantastic!


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


Wonderful sence for the details as always.
Look forward to see this one at the finish line.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


Srevratil - Thank you.

Mads - Yeah I've been thinking about the finish when I was travelling today.

I can't decide whether to use BLO followed by BLO/varnish/turps mix or Teak Oil, followed by Teak Oil/varnish/turps mix.

On the one hand, I'd like to try the Teak Oil but I've never used it before and I'm not sure how it will turn out. I don't have a suitable piece of beech to try it first. On the other hand, I like how the BLO looks on saw handles. Decisions, decisions.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


;-)


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## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


Yet again another informative drool fest from Andy.

Thanks for the recommend on the brass cleaner, I have been wondering.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


*Ryan* - I don't think Brasso is any better than other brass cleaner. It takes forever to get all the crap out of a medallion nut. I wish there was a brass dip you could buy where you could just throw the bits in and pull them out shiny. I know you can get one for silver, but I've never seen one for brass.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


I would try and ultrasonic cleaner, but I would be careful to use a fairly gentle liquid since there is quite a bit that can corrode brass (ammonia being one of them).


----------



## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


Sniff..
We HAD to use brasso on our uniform buttons and hat badges..works great for an initial pollish but fades fast !
Autosol after keeps that smilin' shine..

(Don't know how many guys n' gals used the tried and true method on those hat badges..a bit of sandpaper took the edges off, MUCH easier to polish..;_)


----------



## TheKiltedWoodworker (Dec 21, 2006)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


Andy,

Sorry I'm a bit late to the party here… found the blog entry when searching for something else.

You said you sourced your Beech from dowel material. Can I suggest something? The next time you run across a Stanley Transitional plane or an old moulding plane (missing its blade and wedge) on the cheap, pick it up! The beech you then have in your hands is most likely QS and properly aged and will work very nicely in your tote restorations.

Lovely work, by the way. I have a Tyzack DT that is so sweet to use and a joy to hold. It's my go-to saw for most any small joinery.

Cheers,

Ethan


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


Hi Ethan - That's a good tip. Other people have suggested that on another thread. After I finished this saw, I went on to restore a load more backsaws of different sizes and tooth geometries, made a saw vise and went on to learn to sharpen them. You can follow my progress on my Saw Talk blog if you're interested. The last post in this series will be a beginner's guide to saw sharpening video which I hope will encourage others to learn and pass on the skill of sharpening saws.


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## liljimy7 (Jul 26, 2015)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


Nice job researching & explaining in detail restoration process….


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


Thanks liljimy7. Glad you enjoyed it.


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## liljimy7 (Jul 26, 2015)

Brit said:


> *Restoring the Saw Handle*
> 
> Did you know that saw handle making was a profession in its own right in the 19th century? Young men underwent an apprenticeship lasting 12 months before they could call themselves a saw handle maker. It seems a long time doesn't it? One year, just to learn how to make a saw handle. However there was quite a lot of detailing to do on a 19th century saw handle. Some features were purely for decoration, whilst others had a distinct function.
> 
> ...


To remove dried brasso try a brass wire brush by hand or wheel. won't scratch.
Use it all the time for pristine vintage tool restorations (see my projects)
Jim


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

*The Finale*

*THE FINALE*

*Repairing the Lamb's Tongue*
So in my last post I'd fixed the large chip below the bottom saw nut.










Now it was time to fix the chip on the lambs tongue.










I started by paring the chipped surface flat with a chisel, then I ripped a section from an off-cut of beech dowel. Before gluing it onto the handle, I slid a hotel card key into the kerf where the saw plate goes. This served two purposes. Firstly, it ensured that I didn't get excess squeeze out in the kerf which would be difficult to remove and secondly, it provided a surface to press the beech dowel up against so that the correct gap was maintained. Yet another use for hotel card keys. It was a bit tricky sanding the angle between the pared surface and the hotel card key which substituted for the saw plate, as it was difficult to hold such a tiny piece of dowelling. However, I got there in the end.










I let the glue dry while I went inside to warm up and eat a spot of lunch, then a few well-placed swipes with a couple of files saw the repair completed.










A final rub all over with some P320 and the handle was ready for the finish.










*Applying the Finish*
First I applied two liberal coats of neat Boiled Linseed Oil, wiped on with a paper towel. I left each coat to soak in for about 30 minutes then wiped off any excess with a clean rag. The second coat of BLO had 4 days to dry as I was away on business.

Next I mixed up 4 teaspoonfuls of oil-based satin varnish, 2 teaspoonfuls of BLO and 2 teaspoonfuls of pure turpentine and applied two coats of the mixture over the course of two days. I left the second coat on the surface of the wood to dry without wiping off the excess. Of course I got the inevitable dust nibs etc, so once it was dry I rubbed the entire handle with 0000 steel wool until the surface was silky smooth. After that I applied two coats of clear paste wax with a cotton rag and buffed each coat out after 30 minutes. I then brushed the second application to a to a soft sheen.










Since it has been a few weeks since I cleaned the saw bolts and nuts, I gave them another quick polish.










I also deepened the slots in the nuts with the side of a needle file so my nut driver wouldn't cam out when I tightened the nuts.










*Re-assembly*
Anyone who has removed saw bolts from a 19th century back saw will know that the heads are rarely centered on the threads or perpendicular to the threads. For this reason when I remove saw bolts, I always try to keep them in the same orientation, so I know which one came out of which hole. This time however, at some point I must have picked them up to clean them and put them back in the wrong order. Obviously the medallion nut goes in the big hole, so I had a 50% chance of getting the other two back in the right holes. Of course I got it wrong first time and had to remove them again and swap them over. Then I found that although the bolts were in the right holes, the nuts needed to be transposed. So, after a bit of trial and error, I got them lined up with the holes as best I could and cinched them up with my nut driver. I was pleased to find that even after sanding the sawplate, the handle was still a great fit with no movement at all.

*The Reveal*
So now it is time for the before and after photos. Here is the photo I took of 'Big Joe' before I began this restoration.










Now here he is after my restoration and repair. Saws are difficult items to photograph, especially under artificial light so you'll have to forgive the quality of the pictures.










I was surprised and a bit disappointed that the repair to the cheek didn't seem to soak up the BLO like the rest of the handle. In retrospect, I should have dyed it before applying the BLO, but who knew right? I'm not going to beat myself up over it. It's an honest repair that should see me out. The medallion side of the handle really shows off the quartersawn beech. They had access to some nice wood in those days didn't they?










To really appreciate it though, you have to hold it and turn it in the light, so here are some shots at different angles so you can get a better idea.










Who knew this was under all that dirt and grime eh?










The B-side looks totally different, but still nice - at least to my eyes.










So here's to *W. Tyzack, sons and Turner*. Thanks for a making such a great saw. And let's not forget *Joe Duckworth from Bolton, Lancashire*. Nice one Joe! I hope you approve of what I've done to your saw sir.

*BIG JOE ROCKS!!!*









Thanks for watching guys. I hope you like it.

Next up - Little Joe.


----------



## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

Brit said:


> *The Finale*
> 
> *THE FINALE*
> 
> ...


Andy you've done it again, great restore and great blog !


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Brit said:


> *The Finale*
> 
> *THE FINALE*
> 
> ...


that's a great looking saw. Nice job Andy.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Brit said:


> *The Finale*
> 
> *THE FINALE*
> 
> ...


Beatiful, Brit!


----------



## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

Brit said:


> *The Finale*
> 
> *THE FINALE*
> 
> ...


Excellent job, Andy. I'm glad to see that you restored the handle rather than just making a new one. The wood is so beautiful and fitting for the saw. Thanks for another informative blog post.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *The Finale*
> 
> *THE FINALE*
> 
> ...


Thanks guys. It was more work than I thought it would be, but I'm pleased with the end results. I've still got no idea why the repair to the cheek wouldn't take the BLO.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Brit said:


> *The Finale*
> 
> *THE FINALE*
> 
> ...


Spectacular saw Andy, and the repairs are nice and seamless. with the piece that isnt as dark it might just be that the older wood has a natural patina that you dont have in the new wood. On the old beech jack plane I restored I planed off all the old surface and when i applied oil it turned really dark. Maybe in 100 years that wood will be closer to the same color? ;-)


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Brit said:


> *The Finale*
> 
> *THE FINALE*
> 
> ...


good work Andy 
thank´s for the toturials a pleassure to follow 

take care
Dennis


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## jaxonquad (Apr 20, 2011)

Brit said:


> *The Finale*
> 
> *THE FINALE*
> 
> ...


You've done it justice! Wonderful job!


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *The Finale*
> 
> *THE FINALE*
> 
> ...


*Mauricio* - Who knows. What I do know is that the handle was made out of English beech and the dowelling was probably made out of European beech. It didn't darken at all when I applied the BLO. Shame, but like I said, I'm not going to beat myself up over it.

*Dennis & Shane* - Thanks guys.


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## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

Brit said:


> *The Finale*
> 
> *THE FINALE*
> 
> ...


Andy one more beautiful restore.
I love the fact you left the repair in it's new color, then time will make the difference vanish.
So fine sence of details you always show, it is really impressive.
Best thoughts my friend,
Mads


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## meikou (Jun 12, 2008)

Brit said:


> *The Finale*
> 
> *THE FINALE*
> 
> ...


Great post mate. I've been tempted to try the buy and restore route but I haven't learned enough about them yet to feel comfortable buying off the bay.


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## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

Brit said:


> *The Finale*
> 
> *THE FINALE*
> 
> ...


Thanks meikou, glad you enjoyed it and yes ebay can be a bit of a minefield. You've got to know what to buy and don't allow yourself to go over what you're prepared to pay for it. If you don't win, another one always shows up before long and you can try again.


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