# Rustoleum Paint - Spray Can or Brush?



## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

I am working on partially restoring my recently purchased 1940's Craftsman King-Seeley (103.23130) drill press. I picked it up on CL for $10. I runs well and weighs a ton!

I have spent a couple of days removing the rust and now want to paint it but I do not want to take the whole thing apart. I will probably never be able to get it all back together again.

I wanted to see if anyone has applied Rustoleum paint using a paint brush as opposed to the spray can. Covering all the parts to spray the paint on would be near impossible but I want to protect the base, table, cover, etc. from the rust coming back.

Thanks


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

You sure you won't be able to get it back together? The proper method would be to disassemble into components, and paint the components…

I have used Rustoleum from a brush on can on my smoker, it works fine, but spray can and you can be assured of no brush marks…


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

Years ago I used a ton of Rustoleum by brushing it from a can. No more. Most of their spray products, save for the 2X line, are superior by rattle can. Their traditional enamel spray line has been around for decades, and puts on a nice, even finish. That being said, I agree with Dave. Take the time to dissemble it and spray it right.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

You don't need to remove the quill or anything, you can always mask things off with blue painters tape. I did one of those exact same DPs and totally disassembled it, new quill bearings, chuck jaws, motor bearings, cord and switch assembly. I spent more than a bench DP at Harbor Freight cost but like it better (wish I could add a crank up table though). If you brush it (there isn't a lot to paint) just make sure it's warm so the paint flows out. Look through the publications section of the vintage machinery website and you'll find a manual for that or one similar. It'll show the whole assembly and it's nice to have just so you know what the drill speeds are when you change the belt up or down.


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## SuperCubber (Feb 23, 2012)

I just finished rehabbing an old tool chest with Rust Oleum rattle cans. I used a grinder right a wire brush art attachment to get the old paint off, then primed and painted. I think it came out beautifully.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

There are two schools of thought on the subject.. some old timers insist that brushing old iron is the only way to go. That is how a lot of vintage machines were painted back in the day. Properly applied, brush marks are not a problem and it puts on a much thicker layer of paint than spraying does (better protection). I've done both with good results. My last project, completely non woodworking related (I painted a 120 gallon propane tank), was sprayed using Rustoleum gloss white from a can using a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gun, and it came out fantastic. Thinned about 10% with acetone as per the directions, I gave it about four coats and it wound up looking like it had just left the factory. Rattle cans work fine, but it's difficult to get an even consistant surface on large panels. Brushing is a bit more time consuming and difficult to get into some areas, but the results can be just as good if you apply it right.

Cheers,
Brad


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

1 1950s set of Handyman encylcopedias I own have a chapter on tool maintenance shows a guy giving his lathe a coat of paint with a brush. Just do what you want - it's YOUR tool and nothing is incorrect. In the old days NOBODY would ever take a machine apart to paint it, or mask off the rest of the shop to spray it when a brush would get it done faster.


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Thanks Brad and dhazelton for the advice. I think it will be best for me to brushing on the rustoleum paint is going to be easier and I will be able to use the DP sooner. I don't have a DP now so I do need to use the tool.


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Well so much for my stated plan. I broke down and decided to take the DP apart. I took my time and put each set of componets in a ziploc bag which I labelled. I got the owner's manual which has pretty clear pictures as to what goes where also.

I ended up leaving the tensioner know and lock in place since I did not want to mess with springs. Also I left the quill (I think that is what it is) in place and the chuck. I figure I can mask those up.

It sure is a lot easier getting the rest of the rust off!

Any suggestions on how to get the post rust free? I used a wire brush and drill wire wheel and got most of it off. Will a scotch brite pad do the rest? Also what do you lubricate the post with? WD40 or something else?

I picked up a couple of Hammered Metal rustoleum spray cans to paint the DP. I thought the color/finish would go well with the DP and the hammered effect will help cover up any imperfections in metal.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

EXACTLY what I used - I got the hammered bronze-y color (gold would have been more appropriate, but hey). If yours has the engine turned aluminum trim on the head don't try to clean it up cuz all that turning will dissappear. Ask how I know. I used a wire wheel on a drill, then turned to emery cloth and started sanding the tube up and down with the emery wrapped around. I think I coated it with paste wax. If you use an oil it may get gummy.


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Great! Now you tell me. Already messed up the turned aluminum trim on the head. Did the same thing you did and the turning disappeared. But it is clean!

I'll try the paste wax on the tube.

What do you use to lubricate the quill?


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## craftsman on the lake (Dec 27, 2008)

Whatever you do, use the rustoleum primer first. If you do the topcoat will stay on better and never chip.


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## woodchuckerNJ (Dec 4, 2013)

To get the post rust free, take some 320 wet/dry paper and some cutting oil (drill/tapping oil) , it's a rust preventive and contains lubes to clear the swarf.
just wear gloves and sand the heck out of it.
When you are done, just wipe down. You can use motor oil if you really want, I keep my post dry, so nothing sticks to it.


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## TheGermanJoiner (Dec 1, 2013)

I have my restored delta Rockwell drillpress here. I used rust oleum hammer tone spray paint. It worked well. Mine weighs a butt load too. Post some pics. I'd love to see it


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

I used axle or bearing grease on the quill. If you have a grease gun around just shoot a blob onto your finger and get it on there.


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## darthford (Feb 17, 2013)

I used spray can Rustoleum Machine Grey on my RAS, it worked great but did take a bit longer to dry than the Ace Hardware brand black enamel. For rust you need to discover Evapo-Rust the stuff is awesome. Here's my review on it.

Before









After


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Nice restoration darthford! I will give Evaporust a try.

When you painted did you prime it first? Also when you painted the parts like the elbows did you paint the inside as well?

Thanks


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

If you have more time than money, white vinegar works as well. $2 a gallon vs $23 or so.


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## 49er (Jan 3, 2014)

I used forrest green Rust-o-lem on my metal bench and my bandsaw. I brushed it on and it dried with no brush marks. I was really impressed. I want to try spraying some with a little wet look hardener.


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

I have just put the first coat on the DP using Rustoleum Gray Hammered rattle can paint. It looks pretty good. Should I wait a day or two and add a second coat?

I am also working on the motor and motor mount now and was wondering if it is ok to paint the motor casing. It looks like it might have been painted in the past. If it is ok, are there any special precautions I should take?


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## Knothead62 (Apr 17, 2010)

darthford, that is a great looking job!


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## MalcolmLaurel (Dec 15, 2013)

Recoating… usually a good idea. If you used Rustoleum rattle cans, not the instructions say "recoat within 1 hour or after 48 hours."

Right now I'm refinishing a 1960s vintage rolling toolbox (a promotional thing with the STP logo). I'm using both rattle can and brushed on Rustoleum. The brush on stuff is amazingly thick, and (in my case at least) doesn't need more than one coat. It was still tacky 24 hours later, but I had shut the heat off in the garage not long after the first coat. The rattle cans take several coats to achieve the same coverage.

I just used Evaporust for the first time on a circa 1900 folding drawknife (flea market find), and was extremely pleased with the results.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Generally with the enamels, you have a one or two hour window for recoating which, if you miss, requires a couple of days to cure before the next coat. They are all different, so pay close attention to what the directions say on whatever particular brand you are using.

Painting the motor is fine.. It's best to disassemple first and mask off the parts you don't want painted, but if you really want to paint it as is, just try not to get too much paint down in the vent holes/internals and you should be ok. Pulling them apart isn't that difficult though; it's only 4 bolts and you get to clean out all the sawdust accumulated in there

And Malcom.. welcome to the wonderful world of Evaporust! Fantastic stuff. Cheapest place I've found it was at Tractor Supply (even cheaper than Horror Freight!). It can be used over and over again until it just plain doesn't work any more. I have one of those new plastic gallon paint cans half filled with Evaporust that sits in the garage that I throw stuff in all the time. I made a little basket out of hardware cloth so I can retrieve little parts without having to dig around the bottom of the can. Keep the lid on when not being used as it will evaporate otherwise.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Well I finally got the Drill Press painted and back together again. The paint job came out great! I ended up wirebrusing and sanding with wet/dry sandpaper the column and then I waxed it.

I was amazed that I actually got the DP back together and functioning. I was doing this alone so I had to get the main body on the column and tighten the locking crank myself. I ended up putting it on the floor since I couldn't do it when the base was on the new stand. That worked but then I almost broke myself picking that beast off the floor and getting on the stand.

I never ended up painting the motor. Maybe later.

I also had a bit of a scare when the tensioning spring would not engage but then I figured out that it was held by the crank pin. I got it lined up with the hub pin hole, inserted the pin and then things were good. (Man that sounds peverse!!) I greased the quill and other parts with white lithium grease. The DP works great and springs back quick and easy.

I also built a mobile stand for it. I made the base from 2X6 and 2X4, then skinned it in 1/2" red oak that I had . The drawer fronts were also red oak but the grain was real interesting, like something has gotten into it. Not really sure what.

This was my first ever attempt a drawers and I can honestly say that I learned a lot (like what not to do when making drawers). I also learned that going cheap is not always the best way. Next time I am going to invest in the sliding drawer extensions!

Here are the pics








Mobile base - used oak for the sides and drawer fronts - don't know where some of the grain came from…








Craftsman King-Seeley badge in front 








right side








left side








motor








table








base








motor








tag on base


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## SuperCubber (Feb 23, 2012)

Great job, Howard! Looks like a new vintage drill press!


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## tefinn (Sep 23, 2011)

The drill press looks great! Now you can get started on the jointer!


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## Newbiewoodworker43 (Sep 18, 2011)

Thanks, it was a considerable amount of work but I am pleased with the results.

I may take a break from restoration work for a bit. I started to build an Adirondack chair for my wife and I was using some Cedar lumber I had picked up. I do not have a Dust Collection system and this stuff caused a huge cloud of dust when cutting on my table saw. I think I have to turn to dust collection before I do anything else.


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## Charlie75 (Mar 14, 2012)

Nice restoration Howard. Probably works better after a nice paint job. lol


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