# Brass rivets in tool handles (how is it done)



## starringemma (Aug 15, 2012)

I want to make carving knives from some surgical blades that got ay an auction. I need to know how brass rivets are set. Are they just peened with a hammer? If so what is the technique/best way to do this?


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## TheCook (Aug 5, 2012)

Drill a hole, stick some brass rod in, whack it with a hammer.


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## lwllms (Jun 1, 2009)

Search "knife rivets brass" on Google or what ever search engine you prefer.


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## Iguana (Jun 22, 2011)

Unless you have a super-accurate hammering technique (I don't), use a drift or other form of punch. A small piece of steel rod the same diameter as the brass will work, too. It just avoids marring or possibly splitting the wood. Also, use something very hard (well, harder than brass) to back the knife when you peen it.

Epoxying them in place also works.


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## BrianStrothcamp (Jan 10, 2011)

In the good ol days… thats what the ball-peen hammer was for… I use a punch of proper size with one firm wack… best if done on a large anvil (you need something very solid or you will be cussin)

you always leave them proud… then sand or machine off the mushroom


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## MichaelR (Oct 1, 2011)

If you're doing just a couple, a brass rod and a small ball peen hammer is cost effective. Search for "cutler rivets" for the kind you find on kitchen knifes. They come in a variety of sizes.


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## lumberjoe (Mar 30, 2012)

I treat them exactly like dowels. The only exception is I drive them in with a completely flat hammer to avoid rounding them over. Leave them proud on both sides and sand them down. Brass sands really easily, but harder than the surrounding wood. It's easy to remove more wood than brass, so take it easy with the sanding and finish by hand.

A little epoxy keeps them in there for good


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## starringemma (Aug 15, 2012)

I'm thinking maybe counter sink the brass rivet just a bit and use a punch with a wider dynamiter than the counter sink to mushroom the rivet in a uniform radius.


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## madts (Dec 30, 2011)

I drill a hole the same size as the rod. Then use a lot of epoxy. Has work well for me.


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## starringemma (Aug 15, 2012)

madts,

With no peening at all?


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Make the brass pins slightly proud on both sides. Place on a solid surface preferably steel and give a sharp rap w/ hammer. Then sand so the pins are flush. No need for a countersink.


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## starringemma (Aug 15, 2012)

bondogaposis,

What do you mean by proud?


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## mtenterprises (Jan 10, 2011)

Cutterly rivits - Two-Piece Press-Fit Tubular Rivets see McMaster-Carr PN 96082A100 - http://www.mcmaster.com/#brass-rivets/=l35fqg- Scroll to the bottom.
MIKE


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## elingeniero (Aug 16, 2012)

If this wasn't 2 sided, I'd just use screws and router the slots off. Perhaps there's brass hardware, such that you can do so on 2 sides.


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## racerglen (Oct 15, 2010)

Emma, "proud"..he means sticking up/out a bit..


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## mtenterprises (Jan 10, 2011)

See my previous post.
MIKE


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

elingeniero, Two part screws like that are called binging posts.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

or leave them a bit proud and peen them over, that's what the other side of the hammer is for.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

What do you mean by proud?
Emma,
If you place your brass pins so they are sticking above and below both sides of the handle approximately 1/16"on each side. Then smack them and they will be forced tight into their holes in the handle and knife blade. They will still need a a little sanding to make them flush. "Flush" is the opposite of "proud".


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

lots more out there


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## madts (Dec 30, 2011)

Yes Emma, no peening at all. If you want to peen I would use copper, as brass is to brittle. I have use brass welding rod as alignment pins. The Glue does it all. Just do not put in the dishwasher, as epoxy does not like heat.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/65446


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## starringemma (Aug 15, 2012)

Topamax,

Thanks I'll give these binging posts a try.


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## Danpaddles (Jan 26, 2012)

Corby Rivets come to mind, if your hole is big enough. (Hint- really 'hard' to drill the handle holes). Otherwise, just buy some brass rod, smear epoxy on everything, then file it all smooth. That brass won't go anywhere.

http://www.knifemaking.com/category-s/75.htm


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## starringemma (Aug 15, 2012)

Great video, thanks Don.


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## starringemma (Aug 15, 2012)

madts,

Thanks, I never knew owl ******************** was so slick.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Here's a site that has lots of information and parts-
http://www.knifemaking.com/


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## SignWave (Feb 2, 2010)

I don't have a ton of experience, but I did replace some wooden handles on some kitchen knives recently, and used 1/8" brass rod and epoxy to hold it all together, and did not peen the brass. I cut the brass just a bit above the wood and (after the epoxy was fully cured) used sandpaper to get it flush. It was very easy to get it smooth and level.

Unfortunately, they've been soaked in the kitchen sink and the wood keeps swelling and shrinking, so I'll be doing it again, but they epoxy and brass are holding everything together, allowing me to procrastinate…


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Emma- Those are Chicago screws in your pic. They will work but you need to drill countersinks on both sides and they don't look nearly as nice as brass or copper pins.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Contact a place that sells equipment for saw and tool sharpeners. They have the 2-piece screws that are used on hand saws.


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