# Kreg jig for building upper kitchen cabinets



## HarleySoftailDeuce (Jan 14, 2009)

Hello fellow Jumber Jocks,
I'm about to start my upper kitchen cabinets, and am not sure how to proceed. Should I start by building the carcasses first or the face frames? 
1 issue I have if I build the FF's first is they might warp if I do not hurry to follow up with the carcasses, and because I am slow, and have other things pending, would that be an issue to consider?
I suppose it would be easier if I copy the existing uppers as I am still using them, but can get my measurements from them.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all !


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## cabinetmaster (Aug 28, 2008)

If you have the room, I would build the carcass first. Then build the FF and put them on the carcass as they are built. I you need more info, feel free to pm me. Been a cabinetbuilder for over 30 years.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Paul, I agree with Jerry. I always build the carcass first and then fit the face frame to the carcass.


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## MDRoehl (Nov 17, 2009)

I agree with the others, I always build the carcasses first.


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## HarleySoftailDeuce (Jan 14, 2009)

Thanks to my friends at LJ !! I'm going to do the boxes first. 
Does everyone agree that the Kreg is the best way to build and attach the FF's?


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## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

Why on earth would you build a ff first?

kreg…not necessarily.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Kreg is a terrific choice. I have the K3 system, plus a couple of their right-angle clamps … makes face frame and carcase construction much easier.


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## GFYS (Nov 23, 2008)

A kreg pocket hole would be great if you are building modular cabinets on which the faces are mounted prior to installation. They will not be that great otherwise.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

How you attach your face frames can differ according to how your cabinets are configured unless there nailed on . I don't like the look of pocket screws if they are visible even with plugs the are way to obvious unless you can put them were they wont be seen. you can also kerf the edge of your cabinets large enough to accept biscuits and then add biscuits to the back of the face frame . Of course I agree with making the cabinets first.


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## sandhill (Aug 28, 2007)

carcasses for sure. I would use pocket holes anywhere they will not show and a biscuit here and there to keep them lined up and if you do not have that tool dowels will work in the corners and longer spans..


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I just remembered a small cabinet I whipped out for a class I was teaching that the very last second I applied the face frame with turners tape ,it stuck very well and is still on the demo cabinet. I've thought about using this on a combination of cabinets with one face frame but I have not been brave enough to do this on a customers job.


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## Newton (Jun 29, 2008)

As most have already stated, boxes first. To attach the face frames, cut a groove in the edge of the cabinet sides (no need to do the bottoms) and make a corresponding groove in the stiles (veritcal pieces) of the face frames. Attach with glue and splines. This is a very strong method, especially if the doors are to be hinged from the face frame, but you must take care to have the grooves align. Needs some precision but isn't that what we strive for? Good luck.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

If you use the Kreg system, be sure you clamp the FF or when you put the screws in, the board will move slightly and botch the look with a catch edge. A real shame to do all that work and have it look like I did it.
Rand


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Rand is right … that is why I bought the right-angle clamps. Norm Abram did a whole series a year or so back on a kitchen remodel. He used pocket-screws to assemble the face frames, then used biscuits to attach them to the carcases. He used his PC biscuit joiner to on the frames, but used a router with a slot-cutter to make grooves in the carcases.


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