# How to Attach Legs to Center of Thin Table Top?



## AlbanyTim (Jun 13, 2010)

Hi Y'all,

I'm building a long 10'6" x 30" harvest table with a rather thin top 7/8"

I am supporting it with legs on the somewhat centered underside (Not four corners).










Any suggestions on attaching the table top to the legs and supporting runner. I don't believe I need to worry about seasonal movement since it would only be fastened in the middle. I'm not in the mood for pocket screws.

Small, simple "L" brackets seem the most obvious, but I am wondering if there's any interesting alternatives.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts you have offer!


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## ocwoodworker (Mar 5, 2010)

You could use threaded inserts. Maybe #8 - 32tpi. and then use 1"x1" blocks to use as your "L" bracket. Just a thought. But to be quite honest, I think that you need cross runners. Just in case someone leans on the side of the table. No matter what fasteners you use, it wouldn't be enough.


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## jeepturner (Oct 3, 2010)

My first thought would be to employ pocket screws between the legs and the table top.Then the next idea would be glue blocks attached with screws. 
I agree with Kevin that you may want to stiffen the design. Most people do not think twice about using a table for a chair, or a foot stool, or a leaning post. 
I like tables that have the pedestal feet because they look lighter. Looking forward to it as a finished project.


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## wseand (Jan 27, 2010)

You need to make cross members as suggested by Mel and Kevin. A table that big needs a quite sturdy design due to people leaning on it or sitting on it. I would also push those legs out a little further, and make the top 2 to 3 inches wider so you can make the feet wider or make the top 6 inches shorter Just my 50 cents.


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## devann (Jan 11, 2011)

I too have agree with Kevin, Mel, & Bill. You'll need a cross member at the legs to stiffen the table top to leg connection. I would also notch the connection. Ether the legs or the cross member. I'd also move the legs closer to the ends of the table top. You can taper the bottom of the cross member outside of the legs to help hide it. Turn your apron on edge, it'll help to hide the cross member and you can miter the corners so no end grain is showing. That's my $0.02


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## GJP60 (Jan 12, 2010)

I immediately thought of cross members too. Perhaps you could incorporate something into the design very similar to the feet, but is a smaller scale. I don't think it would detract from the lightness of the table, especially viewed from above.
Cheers,


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## pete79 (Oct 20, 2009)

I'd echo the cross members, but if you're dead set against it you might try dowels? If your table top is 7/8, you could probably get a half inch of a dowel into the table top without going through it. Again, it's not the strongest option, but it would work.


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## cornflake (Jan 13, 2011)

i recomend metal corner brackets they sell them at lowes in the lumber area i built a set of porch stairs with them.


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

If you can get a smooth, flat surface and good clamping force, glue alone may be enough. With this design, applying good clamping pressure may be a challenge - but it is doable with jigs.


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