# The Stanley # 39s....Boom or Bust?



## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

I've never seen a 39 before, much less owned one. But a 39- 3/8" just came up for sale locally. I kinda like the idea of a graduated set of 39s, but really I'm sure I'd only ever use the 1/4" and 3/4". So… is it worth owning a set, where they'd be used primarily in cross-grain dadoes such as in a bookcase? I just want to get away from routers or TS dadoes for this purpose, and the 45's don't work right for me for this, unless I'm machining close to an edge, with the grain. I like the idea of the knickers on either side. I like how they can be used flush up against a straightedge for guidance. Was this a hit with users, or another one of Stanley's duds? Is there anything comparable on the market that is new, as an alternative? Thanks for your comments!


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Bump! Hey, not even a mercy post?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

is it worth owning a set *If you can help yourself, teach me!*

I like the idea of the knickers on either side. * Me Too*

that's all I got.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Thanks, *Don*!
Perhaps I should have presented the question differently: I want to cut my cross-grain dadoes by hand, and I'm trying to find the right plane to get the job done. I prefer nickers on either side of the cut line, and depth stops that are adjustable. I see various #39s on eBay all the time, in every width from 1/4" to 1"...but they're $150-$200 each! I'd spring for an entire set, one width at a time if necessary, but if they are generally difficult to work with OR, there's something better, I'd like to know. *What are all you galoots using?*


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

I once used my #45 to make a 3/4" dado cross grain, and made a video of it. It worked pretty well, but I had some blow out at the end (my fault, for not doing anything to prevent it) but… it was also in poplar. I'm not sure how it would work in anything else, as I haven't tried. Look at/for a #46 perhaps?

There's also saw, chisel, and #71 too…


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

*Hey poopyk…*

*I just got my 4th one of these little planes... *
They had them On Sale for just $7.99.

They are superb quality & easy to adjust… Very sharp & ready to cut… out of the box… Made in India!

I've got to ask…
What do you think of them?
What would you use them for? (a #33)

They cut really good and easy… and smoothly…
... I guess I should hone them a tad to see if they cut even better?!

Thank you in advance for your expert opinion…


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## ITnerd (Apr 14, 2011)

hey PK, I think the 39's are cool plane, but I don't know if I'd hunt out a whole set, maybe just the pair you mentioned. Patrick Leach mentions the 46 as being more versatile (and cheaper) if you're going to cut dados of many differing widths.

I have a few of the wooden predecessors to the 39s, and they work like a champ. You can find the wooden versions of these planes for cheap, and since they are straight irons, its a relatively quick restore. True the bottoms, clean up the rabbet (that the depth stop sits in) hone the tips of the two pronged nicker and the blade, and you're off. For whatever reason, I've been lucky and haven't had any issues with the seating of the blade or wedge on the ones I've acquired.

If you wait for a common/no-named one to pop up on ebay, you can grab it for around 10-20 bucks to see if you like the feel of them. If you do like em, you'll know the 39s would be a good fit for you, if you don't - you're out a couple lunches instead of a steak dinner. Of course, I am biased - I love the look of the old beech woodies 

Good luck with your rust hunting,
Chris


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Hey, Joe…* 
Well.. I dislike Harbour Freight for a number of reasons… but I understand some people convert them into #40-style scrub planes. I wonder why you're on your 4th one? If you're happy with it, fine, but I'd NEVER recommend HF to people I care about. * Mosquito*: I've looked for your video, do you have a link? Maybe I saw it and just didn't realize it was you. Had a good laff over that one #39 video, the dado was soo ragged. *ITNerd*: Great suggestion! I have dozens of wooden molding planes, just that none of them are dado planes. I'm not seeing any like I have in mind on eBay either… I'll keep an eye out. This whole thing is about trying to avoid putting good money after bad, investing in a set of either that I ultimately won't be happy with. *Thanks to ALL *for your kind replys! Right now I'm thinking about a chisel plane made from 2 trapezoidal bars of 1/4" 6061 aluminum plate, with a side-bar of one thicker piece. I got projects waiting!


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

I had posted it on the hand planes thread. I don't think it's "public" on youtube, so you wouldn't have found it that way:





The focus isn't very good because it was trying to auto focus the whole time. I also didn't have the skates properly aligned, so once the dado got deeper it started to stick (which I adjusted part way through)


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

Hey Kat

I have the complets set of 39's to include the last on the 39.1 which is the 1"

They work like a charm, however, alot of them are missing the spurs on the sides and you really do need them to make sure the wood is scored before it is cut.

See my new 39 on handplanes of your dreams

I also have a DVD which is loaned out that I can loan to you when I get it back.

Arlin


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Mosquito:* Great video, I'm going to try this. Was there a reason why you used thin stock for your fence? My 45s just don't come out of the box often enough…this just might be my answer! Thanks! *Arlin:* Wow, that's like 11 planes! I think I'll get my hands on a 39 and see what it will do. Arlin, you must have some awesome menagerie of planes now! Has anyone hinted for a shop pic?


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

PK...

Hey, Joe… 
Well.. I dislike Harbour Freight for a number of reasons… but I understand some people convert them into #40-style scrub planes. I wonder why you're on your 4th one? If you're happy with it, fine, but I'd NEVER recommend HF to people I care about.

There are some things I will not buy from HF… but not 100%...

Actually, when I saw the recent picture & on Sale, I really didn't think it was the same as I had… so I bought one… ended up to be the same as I had… LOL

These are not Junk planes… I was surprised & very much impressed…

*What is a 33 normally used for?
*


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## Bogeyguy (Sep 26, 2012)

poopiecat, have you ever tried a Stanley No.71 for those cross grain rabbits/dados???


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

I actually just made a better video tonight while working on a table





I used thin stock, because of the depth I was cutting. Where the body overhangs the skate, it would hit the higher stock. I tried it with a 3/4" piece, and I ended up bottoming out on it before I hit the depth stop on a 3/8" deep dado. The 1/4" stock was the closest thing that wasn't 3/4" so I used that. The other issue, is to make sure it's wide enough that the plane doesn't hit the clamps used to hold the guide in place.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Mos makes another convert….

He is fast becoming the #45 champion.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

PK, my take on #39 planes: I'm fascinated by them, they're expensive, and they for working to dimensions.

The $ side is obvious. That I'm in love with the idea of a dado plane is because I use the joint alot, and chiseling them out (cleaning up with a router plane) is somewhat tedious work. I tried a new method this weekend though that just may be the ticket I've been looking to punch.

But last is the dimensions statement. I work almost exclusively with weird material (salvaged mostly, but also roughcut) that isn't to a ready dimension. It gets worked with hand tools until ready, then off it goes. Well, if I'm slave to a 5/8" dado (for example), I either need to taper the edges of my shelf piece OR work the stuff 'til it's a uniform thickness. Yuck. So for now, no #39s for me.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Great video Mos, and only 47secounds from start to finish, cant beat that!

Mos I would just use small tacks or finishing nails to secure the fence. the small holes will usually be under a shelf so you'll never see it.

PK, I would look for a 46 if you want one with a skewed blade but why worry about making an invisible surface smooth with a skewed cut. The #45 seems to do the job, and if you already have one your good to go.

The 46 does intrigue me though, might need both eventually. ;-)

I would also seriously consider the wooden dado blades, Its already ready to go with your favorite size, no set up once its set. If I ever see a 3/4" for a good price I'd be all over it.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

See the nailed down wooden batten.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Don't have any small wooden nails with me Mauricio… And I didn't feel like buying more (have some at my parents') I've seen it done that way before, but I guess I just didn't want the holes in the wood… Maybe it's OCD lol

The 47 seconds doesn't include setup of the plane or the fence, but still, wasn't too bad. I made 2 dados, and this was the second one, so the plane was already setup. Just had to position the fence piece and have at it.

I too, would like a #46…. and a #55… eventually


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

Patrick leach trashes that #55 with no mercy. But then he trashes a lot planes that others love.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

*Bogeyguy:* A #71 will not cut a cross-grain dado. They don't cut ANY dado. *Mauricio*: That image of Stanley transitionals burning in the fireplace casts some doubt in my mind about Leach's credibility. his objective info is great, his sarcasm and opinions I have to take with a grain of salt. With new sets of cutters for the #46 available on eBay, I'll have to give that one another thought. wonder if I can score a good set of wooden dadoes like that one you have! *Anthony Reed*: Yeah, my 45s sit quietly in a drawer far too long between uses! I should leave my favorite one out on the bench, close at hand, and spread the word about the little-known things it can do. I never figured out what Stanley meant when they called it *"7 planes in one*".


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

1.) Rabbet
2.) Dado
3.) Tongue and Groove (match plane?)
4.) Slitting
5.) Beading
6.) Sash
7.) ... plow/grooving? Or would that be covered under Tongue and Groove?

Edit: From the Stanley 45 Manual
1.) Beading and Center-beading Plane
2.) Plow
3.) Dado
4.) Rabbet and Filletster
5.) Match Plane
6.) Sash Plane
7.) Slitting Plane

Sooner or later, I intend to start a blog, going through different functions of the #45, the way I do them… so far I've done 6/7 (haven't used the sash cutter yet) Slitting didn't go so hot…


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Thanks, Mosquito! The sash cutter is another one of those things I've got to tackle in the near future. In fact it was someone's advice years ago here on Lumberjocks that got me interested in the 45 to begin with. It was in regard to my query about cutting my own window..muntins? Not sure to this day what the proper proper word is, those sticks of molding between individual panes of glass in a multi-pane window. I still cannot figure out how to cope a 4-way intersection of these! Or how to let it in to the outer perimeter frame. Without using a router, that is. Thanks so much for shedding some light on Stanley's belief in the capabilities of this type of plane! Looking forward to your video series, Mos!


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

Mos

Nice video. However, just to let everyone know that Mos would have and easier job of it if the table was not moving so much.

No knock on Mos because he was just demastrating on that.

For the #39s there are the 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8 rare, 3/4, 11/16 even rarer, 7/8, and 1

Then there are the 239s which have shorter handle and they are 1/8, 3/16, 3/8, 5/16, 7/16, 1/2

Hope it helps
Arlin


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Not a problem. For me, the blog is as much helping others as it is challenging myself to see what I can do with it. 
-

Arlin, thanks. Yeah, things would be a lot easier if I had something better than a wobble-mate… Someday I'll have a real bench lol


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

PW had a series of articles by Adam Charabini a couple of months back about boarded furniture that were really nice. He uses one of those 3/4" wooden dado plane to cut all the dados. Also, he uses a T&G plane to join at 90 degrees the face frame and the case sides. He used all white pine boards from HD and he talks about how to choose good boards.

Its had me thinking about making some shop cabinets like that. HD sells 12" wide boards that would be perfect for wall cabinets. I think it was like $18 for a 1"x12"x10ft long board. A little more expensive than plywood but after the money and time you spend on edge banding it evens out. And it would be a lot more fun.

Also, after seeing some of the things Dan has done with Pine and Amber Shellac I think it would look pretty nice too.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

And no table saw needed for ripping, easy cross cuts by hand, a nice quiet project….


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

great resource
http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/combinationplanes.html


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Mos, what is slitting? I mean i know the definition but how does it pertain to wood?


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Cutting a thin strip off the edge of a board, or if you made molding on the edge of a larger piece of wood, you could use the slitter to cut the molding off, or beads, etc. Could make strips for inlay, or whatever else you might need.

I'm going to try sharpening my slitter again and see if I can get better results. I tried it with 3/4" poplar… which I think I'll try some 1/2" instead,. Maybe 3/4" was too thick, even though I tried going at it from both sides. I might also try waxing the slitter too…


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Ah ha. Thank ya Sir.


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## grfrazee (Jul 17, 2012)

@poopiekat - Roy Underhill goes through cutting the intersection for window muntins in this episode of The Woodwright's Shop.


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

*grfrazee:* Thank You for the excellent video! answered all my questions, for sure. I've not been such a fan of Underhill, he acts sometimes like there is no point in demonstrating things to their conclusion, but this will be really helpful! Thanks also *Mauricio* and *Sylvain* for your great links, I'll track them down and view them when time permits. Thanks one and all for your great replies!


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## grfrazee (Jul 17, 2012)

Glad to hear I could help. I don't know so much that he doesn't want to demonstrate things to conclusion, more that he doesn't have enough time on his 30 minute show. I'm reading a couple of his books, and he goes into quite a bit of detail with things many would consider mundane.


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## walden (Nov 11, 2012)

I have two of the wooden dado planes and love using them. One is a 7/8" and the other is a 3/4". I use the 3/4 the most. They are easy to set up, use and they do a great job. Make sure the blade the and the nicker blade are in good shape. The nickers should protrude just a bit outside the body of the plane. (The plane body is slightly narrower than the dado it cuts.) Only sharpen the nickers from the inside. Also, take a straight edge to the body. Many of these old planes warp front to back making them useless. I think if I could find a 1/4" I would be set.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Bump back up, as this is making dados now









After I had to make a cutter for it, and new bolts for the nickers. Had to buy the right hand side nicker, too. Splash of black to cover the bare spots..









This one is a 3/8" wide dado plane. When the other nicker shows up in the mail, I might just use this for dados, from now on. It can also cut a 3/8" wide groove with the grain, anywhere in a board. Me Likey.


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## WhattheChuck (Aug 26, 2008)

Well, it's 5 years after the last response, so I dunno if I'm just the Guy with the Red Shirt left on the planet after the Enterprise warps away.

But-I've been tuning up mine, and it works great! BUT everything really has to be super-sharp. Including the spurs.

If it's not sharp, and you don't have all the stupid screws, it doesn't work at all! There is no "try" with these suckers.

Can't say that I'm giving away my router with the bits any time soon! But it WAS fun to get it to work!


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

I've found the same thing, Chuck. If properly tuned up, the 39 will work pretty dang well, but if not… the frustration level can be quite high. I've got a 3/8 that works pretty well (I probably need to sharpen the cutter again soon), and a 3/4 I'm still tinkering with trying to get everything Just So. It's far from the first tool I reach for, even though I make a lot of 3/4 dados.

I was looking for a quarter inch 39 on eBay the other day, since it's time to make a few gift boxes for bottles of wine, and I use a lot of quarter-inch dados and grooves on those, There was one with all the parts for $70, and I passed and used a saw and chisel to make the cross-grain dado I needed. Could've attached a temporary batten and used my combination plane, but I've lost one of the knickers on that because the little allen screws that hold them in place either turn too freely or not at all.

Edit to add: I also have huge hands, and the grip on the 39 is a bit tight. Still usable, but Stanley did not make them for guys like me way out on the end of the bell curve.


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## WhattheChuck (Aug 26, 2008)

Dave-I used to seriously collect hand planes (and rules) about 25 years ago before it was cool. Then people started getting in on the action, and it became expensive. THEN eBay came along, and considerably decreased prices to somewhere in between rational (subs for a new tool) and reasonable (desire for cool looking thingy.)

I picked up a Stanley 39 1/2" back then, but didn't have the bottom spur screws, so it went into the "dado clean-up" slot. Then I bought a 3/4" recently, advertising "complete" but not. So I'm kind starting the process of collecting again!

There is no rational reason for any of this when one has a perfectly good router. But it's turning out to be a pretty good Plague hobby again! Basically hunting for parts, and sanding, sharpening and polishing!


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## WhattheChuck (Aug 26, 2008)

And now-one piece of information for anyone interested in repairing/restoring one!

The screws that hold the spurs are potentially available-they are 5-40 5/32" long cheese head screws. My machinist friend measured mine out. Both the top and bottom screw are the same length. The top screw has the 'cheese head'. The bottom, my machinist friend said, is likely turned down with its taper from one of the top screws!


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## WhattheChuck (Aug 26, 2008)

Now that piece of information is recorded on the Interwebs-to Infinity and beyond!


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

I forgot that I'm the OP here! I've forgotten all about the #39. I get everything done with my #45s all right, but I do use my Bosch routers, about twice a year. And only for veneer plywood. All told, I'd rather have a matched set of H&Rs, by sixteenths, than a set of #39s. I'm just getting old, I guess. Thanks, everyone for your kind comments!


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## WhattheChuck (Aug 26, 2008)

If we keep this Plague thing going for another year, I may finally get into my #45! it may be that I'll be building small boxes until I perish!

At least remember that cheesehead screw measurement after I'm gone!


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

> And now-one piece of information for anyone interested in repairing/restoring one!
> 
> The screws that hold the spurs are potentially available-they are 5-40 5/32" long cheese head screws. My machinist friend measured mine out. Both the top and bottom screw are the same length. The top screw has the cheese head . The bottom, my machinist friend said, is likely turned down with its taper from one of the top screws!
> 
> - WhattheChuck


Ah, yessss, the dreaded 5-40 thread. I've never seen one anywhere else but on the old slot cars of the '60s. It was the standard size for the 1/8" axles. But just try finding a 5-40 threaded anything….Even hardware store clerks would look at you funny back in the day if you asked.


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## WhattheChuck (Aug 26, 2008)

My machinist friend (he does instrument quality work!) pulled it right up on the Interwebs!

I sputtered and gasped!

Needless to say, not gonna show up at the local hardware store!

I asked about the cone-shaped head screw. "Oh we could turn that down in about a minute."


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## 33706 (Mar 5, 2008)

Chuck, do you need some 5-40 fasteners? I got some, somewhere…


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## WhattheChuck (Aug 26, 2008)

Nope, I'm good. But thanks!

There's a whole long post I'm gonna write for entertainment value on restoring my two 39s, which is why I started searching LJ in the first place. That got me to this point!


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Note that at least one manufacturer calls a 5-40 a 1/8-40 UNC. But I see a handful of people selling them on amazon and eBay, so if I decide to pick up more 39s, I'll probably buy a tap and die set and fix my own fasteners.

And yeah, the cone-shaped screw would be just a few minutes work on a lathe, or if you're a caveman like me, a bench grinder or a file. If I needed a hundred of them, I'd ask my buddy with the metal shop for help, but onesy-twosie, I'd make 'em by hand myself.


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