# The Basement



## JL7

*Intro*

Greetings Lumberjocks,

Two years ago I finally got a space for my own. The basement of MY own house! Later I will explain how the shop has grown, but for now, I will just say, how great it is to have a space to express my creative side. Financial limitations (child support - love and support my kids always - but VERY expensive) have plagued me for years (and still do) but I have managed to aquire a decent collection of tools of a budget.

I appreciate all the expertice found on the Lumberjocks site and I have to check EVERY day! Thanks to Martin for a great site….

Thanks for reading - the next post will have photos!


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## FatherHooligan

JL7 said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Greetings Lumberjocks,
> 
> Two years ago I finally got a space for my own. The basement of MY own house! Later I will explain how the shop has grown, but for now, I will just say, how great it is to have a space to express my creative side. Financial limitations (child support - love and support my kids always - but VERY expensive) have plagued me for years (and still do) but I have managed to aquire a decent collection of tools of a budget.
> 
> I appreciate all the expertice found on the Lumberjocks site and I have to check EVERY day! Thanks to Martin for a great site….
> 
> Thanks for reading - the next post will have photos!


Looking forward to the photos of your shop.


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## NBeener

JL7 said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Greetings Lumberjocks,
> 
> Two years ago I finally got a space for my own. The basement of MY own house! Later I will explain how the shop has grown, but for now, I will just say, how great it is to have a space to express my creative side. Financial limitations (child support - love and support my kids always - but VERY expensive) have plagued me for years (and still do) but I have managed to aquire a decent collection of tools of a budget.
> 
> I appreciate all the expertice found on the Lumberjocks site and I have to check EVERY day! Thanks to Martin for a great site….
> 
> Thanks for reading - the next post will have photos!


a) Kudos to you for doing right by your kids. Not everybody ….

b) Congrats on the new shop !! Us bottom-dwellers gotta' stick together !

c) Yeah. Looking forward to pics. Many of us get energy from shop tours


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## lew

JL7 said:


> *Intro*
> 
> Greetings Lumberjocks,
> 
> Two years ago I finally got a space for my own. The basement of MY own house! Later I will explain how the shop has grown, but for now, I will just say, how great it is to have a space to express my creative side. Financial limitations (child support - love and support my kids always - but VERY expensive) have plagued me for years (and still do) but I have managed to aquire a decent collection of tools of a budget.
> 
> I appreciate all the expertice found on the Lumberjocks site and I have to check EVERY day! Thanks to Martin for a great site….
> 
> Thanks for reading - the next post will have photos!


Welcome to the world of underground woodworking!!

As Neil said, looking forward to pictures.

Lew


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## JL7

*Hardwood Flooring..........Cheap.*

I am a big Craigslist fan, always scanning the materials sections for deals, and those short lots of hardwood flooring come up alot. Those folks with 50 sf of leftover floor that want 1/2 price are quite common. The realiity is not to many people are looking for 50 sf of floor, so more often than not, they accept offers much less than 1/2 price, and often it is downright CHEAP!

So this thread is devoted to my cheapness and the use of cool hardwood in pratical applications in the shop and in a few projects:

#1 - French Cleats - I have French Cleats on 3 walls of my shop, all in hard Maple 2-1/2" flooring, cost me $25.00 in material:



















#2 - Shop Cart - Except the drawer section, all is made from flooring, doweled joints, Maple and Jatoba materials (btw, the drawer unit is made out of bamboo plywood, another cheap CL find):










#3 - Plane Boxes - Not very fancy, but got some 5" handscraped brazialian Angelim flooring with black finish on it - rather than plane the finish off, I used it as is and made a pair of boxes, both slightly different:



















#4 - Bench Shelf - Rustic Maple:










#5 - Cross cut sled fence - soon to be done….......:










#6 - Cutting Boards - Note the Yellowheart shown is the exception - I added that - all else is leftover flooring - mostly exotic:




























#7 - Boxes - Several of these boxes from last Christmas were made from flooring - certainly, not all of them but I made a series of 13 unique boxes and the flooring came in handy….........










I should note, as some of you know, prefinished hardwood flooring can be REALLY hard on your equipment. For example, Bellawood flooring with it's 25 year warranty will be very bad for your planer knifes. I have settled on resawing the finish off the prefinised floor so and you may yield a 1/2" board using this technique if you plane the grooves off the bottom.

I have alot of unfinished flooring as well, and in many cases, you use the full 3/4" thickness if the project allows. For me, it's a good way to get nice hardwood cheap.

Appreciate your comments…..............


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## lanwater

JL7 said:


> *Hardwood Flooring..........Cheap.*
> 
> I am a big Craigslist fan, always scanning the materials sections for deals, and those short lots of hardwood flooring come up alot. Those folks with 50 sf of leftover floor that want 1/2 price are quite common. The realiity is not to many people are looking for 50 sf of floor, so more often than not, they accept offers much less than 1/2 price, and often it is downright CHEAP!
> 
> So this thread is devoted to my cheapness and the use of cool hardwood in pratical applications in the shop and in a few projects:
> 
> #1 - French Cleats - I have French Cleats on 3 walls of my shop, all in hard Maple 2-1/2" flooring, cost me $25.00 in material:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2 - Shop Cart - Except the drawer section, all is made from flooring, doweled joints, Maple and Jatoba materials (btw, the drawer unit is made out of bamboo plywood, another cheap CL find):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #3 - Plane Boxes - Not very fancy, but got some 5" handscraped brazialian Angelim flooring with black finish on it - rather than plane the finish off, I used it as is and made a pair of boxes, both slightly different:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 - Bench Shelf - Rustic Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 - Cross cut sled fence - soon to be done….......:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #6 - Cutting Boards - Note the Yellowheart shown is the exception - I added that - all else is leftover flooring - mostly exotic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #7 - Boxes - Several of these boxes from last Christmas were made from flooring - certainly, not all of them but I made a series of 13 unique boxes and the flooring came in handy….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should note, as some of you know, prefinished hardwood flooring can be REALLY hard on your equipment. For example, Bellawood flooring with it's 25 year warranty will be very bad for your planer knifes. I have settled on resawing the finish off the prefinised floor so and you may yield a 1/2" board using this technique if you plane the grooves off the bottom.
> 
> I have alot of unfinished flooring as well, and in many cases, you use the full 3/4" thickness if the project allows. For me, it's a good way to get nice hardwood cheap.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..............


Excellent use of flooring and great projects.

My friend gave me some left over 2" oak unfinished flooring. I just ripped some of it for bent lamination.
I also used some of it for a vanity legs. I still have 3 bundles left.


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## rance

JL7 said:


> *Hardwood Flooring..........Cheap.*
> 
> I am a big Craigslist fan, always scanning the materials sections for deals, and those short lots of hardwood flooring come up alot. Those folks with 50 sf of leftover floor that want 1/2 price are quite common. The realiity is not to many people are looking for 50 sf of floor, so more often than not, they accept offers much less than 1/2 price, and often it is downright CHEAP!
> 
> So this thread is devoted to my cheapness and the use of cool hardwood in pratical applications in the shop and in a few projects:
> 
> #1 - French Cleats - I have French Cleats on 3 walls of my shop, all in hard Maple 2-1/2" flooring, cost me $25.00 in material:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2 - Shop Cart - Except the drawer section, all is made from flooring, doweled joints, Maple and Jatoba materials (btw, the drawer unit is made out of bamboo plywood, another cheap CL find):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #3 - Plane Boxes - Not very fancy, but got some 5" handscraped brazialian Angelim flooring with black finish on it - rather than plane the finish off, I used it as is and made a pair of boxes, both slightly different:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 - Bench Shelf - Rustic Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 - Cross cut sled fence - soon to be done….......:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #6 - Cutting Boards - Note the Yellowheart shown is the exception - I added that - all else is leftover flooring - mostly exotic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #7 - Boxes - Several of these boxes from last Christmas were made from flooring - certainly, not all of them but I made a series of 13 unique boxes and the flooring came in handy….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should note, as some of you know, prefinished hardwood flooring can be REALLY hard on your equipment. For example, Bellawood flooring with it's 25 year warranty will be very bad for your planer knifes. I have settled on resawing the finish off the prefinised floor so and you may yield a 1/2" board using this technique if you plane the grooves off the bottom.
> 
> I have alot of unfinished flooring as well, and in many cases, you use the full 3/4" thickness if the project allows. For me, it's a good way to get nice hardwood cheap.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..............


I too have a fair amount of mixed flooring that I got free, and still get from time to time. I recently got some in Bubinga. Thanks for the inspiration for projects to use it on. I've been sorta stumped on what to use it for.


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## Robb

JL7 said:


> *Hardwood Flooring..........Cheap.*
> 
> I am a big Craigslist fan, always scanning the materials sections for deals, and those short lots of hardwood flooring come up alot. Those folks with 50 sf of leftover floor that want 1/2 price are quite common. The realiity is not to many people are looking for 50 sf of floor, so more often than not, they accept offers much less than 1/2 price, and often it is downright CHEAP!
> 
> So this thread is devoted to my cheapness and the use of cool hardwood in pratical applications in the shop and in a few projects:
> 
> #1 - French Cleats - I have French Cleats on 3 walls of my shop, all in hard Maple 2-1/2" flooring, cost me $25.00 in material:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2 - Shop Cart - Except the drawer section, all is made from flooring, doweled joints, Maple and Jatoba materials (btw, the drawer unit is made out of bamboo plywood, another cheap CL find):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #3 - Plane Boxes - Not very fancy, but got some 5" handscraped brazialian Angelim flooring with black finish on it - rather than plane the finish off, I used it as is and made a pair of boxes, both slightly different:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 - Bench Shelf - Rustic Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 - Cross cut sled fence - soon to be done….......:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #6 - Cutting Boards - Note the Yellowheart shown is the exception - I added that - all else is leftover flooring - mostly exotic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #7 - Boxes - Several of these boxes from last Christmas were made from flooring - certainly, not all of them but I made a series of 13 unique boxes and the flooring came in handy….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should note, as some of you know, prefinished hardwood flooring can be REALLY hard on your equipment. For example, Bellawood flooring with it's 25 year warranty will be very bad for your planer knifes. I have settled on resawing the finish off the prefinised floor so and you may yield a 1/2" board using this technique if you plane the grooves off the bottom.
> 
> I have alot of unfinished flooring as well, and in many cases, you use the full 3/4" thickness if the project allows. For me, it's a good way to get nice hardwood cheap.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..............


Great projects from recycled material. Long live craigslist! I shop it all the time too, and have had some similar experiences.


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## WoodArtbyJR

JL7 said:


> *Hardwood Flooring..........Cheap.*
> 
> I am a big Craigslist fan, always scanning the materials sections for deals, and those short lots of hardwood flooring come up alot. Those folks with 50 sf of leftover floor that want 1/2 price are quite common. The realiity is not to many people are looking for 50 sf of floor, so more often than not, they accept offers much less than 1/2 price, and often it is downright CHEAP!
> 
> So this thread is devoted to my cheapness and the use of cool hardwood in pratical applications in the shop and in a few projects:
> 
> #1 - French Cleats - I have French Cleats on 3 walls of my shop, all in hard Maple 2-1/2" flooring, cost me $25.00 in material:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2 - Shop Cart - Except the drawer section, all is made from flooring, doweled joints, Maple and Jatoba materials (btw, the drawer unit is made out of bamboo plywood, another cheap CL find):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #3 - Plane Boxes - Not very fancy, but got some 5" handscraped brazialian Angelim flooring with black finish on it - rather than plane the finish off, I used it as is and made a pair of boxes, both slightly different:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 - Bench Shelf - Rustic Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 - Cross cut sled fence - soon to be done….......:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #6 - Cutting Boards - Note the Yellowheart shown is the exception - I added that - all else is leftover flooring - mostly exotic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #7 - Boxes - Several of these boxes from last Christmas were made from flooring - certainly, not all of them but I made a series of 13 unique boxes and the flooring came in handy….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should note, as some of you know, prefinished hardwood flooring can be REALLY hard on your equipment. For example, Bellawood flooring with it's 25 year warranty will be very bad for your planer knifes. I have settled on resawing the finish off the prefinised floor so and you may yield a 1/2" board using this technique if you plane the grooves off the bottom.
> 
> I have alot of unfinished flooring as well, and in many cases, you use the full 3/4" thickness if the project allows. For me, it's a good way to get nice hardwood cheap.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..............


I also use harwood flooring for my crafts. I found a local hardwood flooring importer and get their crates and use it for my cutting boards. I'm not so sure about the finish being the killer on your planer blades or is it just the South American hardwoods. The South American hardwoods are REAL hard and will dull a set of knives very quickly. My saw sharpening guy loves me but showed me a way to extend the life of my blades. I can tell by the sound of the planer when they are getting dull (it gets louder). I take a wet stone to the knife edge (while still installed in the planer), clean up the edge and take the residue off the edge. I can do this several times and extend the life by 3 or 4 times. When I buy a replacement set if knives I buy a very high grade of metal and I can really tell the difference (actually stays sharper longer). Your idea of resawing the bottom off is one I might try. I recently purchased a drum sander and this has helpered to improve the quality of my boards. Especially with the removal of rip out and snip from planer use. You've got some very beautiful boards above. Some lay-out combos I might try.


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## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Hardwood Flooring..........Cheap.*
> 
> I am a big Craigslist fan, always scanning the materials sections for deals, and those short lots of hardwood flooring come up alot. Those folks with 50 sf of leftover floor that want 1/2 price are quite common. The realiity is not to many people are looking for 50 sf of floor, so more often than not, they accept offers much less than 1/2 price, and often it is downright CHEAP!
> 
> So this thread is devoted to my cheapness and the use of cool hardwood in pratical applications in the shop and in a few projects:
> 
> #1 - French Cleats - I have French Cleats on 3 walls of my shop, all in hard Maple 2-1/2" flooring, cost me $25.00 in material:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2 - Shop Cart - Except the drawer section, all is made from flooring, doweled joints, Maple and Jatoba materials (btw, the drawer unit is made out of bamboo plywood, another cheap CL find):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #3 - Plane Boxes - Not very fancy, but got some 5" handscraped brazialian Angelim flooring with black finish on it - rather than plane the finish off, I used it as is and made a pair of boxes, both slightly different:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 - Bench Shelf - Rustic Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 - Cross cut sled fence - soon to be done….......:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #6 - Cutting Boards - Note the Yellowheart shown is the exception - I added that - all else is leftover flooring - mostly exotic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #7 - Boxes - Several of these boxes from last Christmas were made from flooring - certainly, not all of them but I made a series of 13 unique boxes and the flooring came in handy….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should note, as some of you know, prefinished hardwood flooring can be REALLY hard on your equipment. For example, Bellawood flooring with it's 25 year warranty will be very bad for your planer knifes. I have settled on resawing the finish off the prefinised floor so and you may yield a 1/2" board using this technique if you plane the grooves off the bottom.
> 
> I have alot of unfinished flooring as well, and in many cases, you use the full 3/4" thickness if the project allows. For me, it's a good way to get nice hardwood cheap.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..............


Thanks for all the nice comments, I appreciate it…..Good tips on the planer blades Jim. You are definately correct on the South American hardwoods, they will eat up blades, some of the woods in the boards above are Brazilian Walnut (not sure what it is, but it is HARD) and 2 types of Rosewood (or at least thats what it's marketed as) and they are very hard as well. Tearout is a problem!

The finish used on these boards varies by manufacturer and some (I mentioned Bellawood) will definately tear up your knives quickly - I believe they use an aluminum oxide finish and it is really tough.

Here are a couple other flooring projects:

The Tigerwood top and base of the box:










Small box with Brazilian Chestnut:










Little sliding box:










And finally, a little six pack holder for a work buddy who makes the homebrew - This is Jatoba and Angelim:










I'd love to see pics of your flooring projects if you have them!

Jeff


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## WoodArtbyJR

JL7 said:


> *Hardwood Flooring..........Cheap.*
> 
> I am a big Craigslist fan, always scanning the materials sections for deals, and those short lots of hardwood flooring come up alot. Those folks with 50 sf of leftover floor that want 1/2 price are quite common. The realiity is not to many people are looking for 50 sf of floor, so more often than not, they accept offers much less than 1/2 price, and often it is downright CHEAP!
> 
> So this thread is devoted to my cheapness and the use of cool hardwood in pratical applications in the shop and in a few projects:
> 
> #1 - French Cleats - I have French Cleats on 3 walls of my shop, all in hard Maple 2-1/2" flooring, cost me $25.00 in material:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #2 - Shop Cart - Except the drawer section, all is made from flooring, doweled joints, Maple and Jatoba materials (btw, the drawer unit is made out of bamboo plywood, another cheap CL find):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #3 - Plane Boxes - Not very fancy, but got some 5" handscraped brazialian Angelim flooring with black finish on it - rather than plane the finish off, I used it as is and made a pair of boxes, both slightly different:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #4 - Bench Shelf - Rustic Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #5 - Cross cut sled fence - soon to be done….......:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #6 - Cutting Boards - Note the Yellowheart shown is the exception - I added that - all else is leftover flooring - mostly exotic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> #7 - Boxes - Several of these boxes from last Christmas were made from flooring - certainly, not all of them but I made a series of 13 unique boxes and the flooring came in handy….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should note, as some of you know, prefinished hardwood flooring can be REALLY hard on your equipment. For example, Bellawood flooring with it's 25 year warranty will be very bad for your planer knifes. I have settled on resawing the finish off the prefinised floor so and you may yield a 1/2" board using this technique if you plane the grooves off the bottom.
> 
> I have alot of unfinished flooring as well, and in many cases, you use the full 3/4" thickness if the project allows. For me, it's a good way to get nice hardwood cheap.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..............


Jeff - go to my home page and look at my projects. The cutting boards are there. The wine caddy is tigerwood and the bistro set is all crate wood. As you can see, some of the cutting boards sport spalted jatoba (Brazilian Cherry). Brazilian Walnut is also known as ipe, VERY HARD (aka iron wood). You will get more tear out as the knives get duller. Ipe and tigerwood is also sold as decking and you can get cut offs from those projects as well.
Jim


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## JL7

*Flip Down Clamp Rack...*

Previously, I stored my longer clamps up between the floor joists, which worked ok, except they were kind of a pain to sneak them out of the cleats. Recently I added on a bit to the shop so had a stretch of open ceiling.

The idea of having a hinged clamp rack has been in my mind for awhile so what the heck, it not that pretty, but it is pretty functional…..

With 8 parallel clamps and 8 "F' clamps, it was a little heavier than I really imagined, so I have 4 black rubber bungies offsetting the weight on the hinge side. The blue bungies on the front are "just in case".










Because of the weight, I wanted a way to close it quickly and safely so I have a spring loaded catch on the ceiling so you can just snap it closed:










And here it is closed:



















As a side benefit, I flip the clamps up and use it as a level clamping surface with access to all sides of the project - I didn't honestly plan it this way - but it works out pretty well. Have used it on several glue-ups and it's only 2 weeks old.










A couple more shots:



















I am sure it's not an unique idea, but this is my design. If you are tight on space, have low ceilings and do alot of clamping, then maybe it's the thing to do? Used re-purposed 2×4's from my last shop expansion so really no cost to build. Also have 2 safety latches, one on each side that I lock just in case, like I said, it's heavier than you think.

Thanks for looking.

Jeff


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## FirehouseWoodworking

JL7 said:


> *Flip Down Clamp Rack...*
> 
> Previously, I stored my longer clamps up between the floor joists, which worked ok, except they were kind of a pain to sneak them out of the cleats. Recently I added on a bit to the shop so had a stretch of open ceiling.
> 
> The idea of having a hinged clamp rack has been in my mind for awhile so what the heck, it not that pretty, but it is pretty functional…..
> 
> With 8 parallel clamps and 8 "F' clamps, it was a little heavier than I really imagined, so I have 4 black rubber bungies offsetting the weight on the hinge side. The blue bungies on the front are "just in case".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the weight, I wanted a way to close it quickly and safely so I have a spring loaded catch on the ceiling so you can just snap it closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a side benefit, I flip the clamps up and use it as a level clamping surface with access to all sides of the project - I didn't honestly plan it this way - but it works out pretty well. Have used it on several glue-ups and it's only 2 weeks old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple more shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure it's not an unique idea, but this is my design. If you are tight on space, have low ceilings and do alot of clamping, then maybe it's the thing to do? Used re-purposed 2×4's from my last shop expansion so really no cost to build. Also have 2 safety latches, one on each side that I lock just in case, like I said, it's heavier than you think.
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


I like it! Ingenious. Well done!


----------



## lew

JL7 said:


> *Flip Down Clamp Rack...*
> 
> Previously, I stored my longer clamps up between the floor joists, which worked ok, except they were kind of a pain to sneak them out of the cleats. Recently I added on a bit to the shop so had a stretch of open ceiling.
> 
> The idea of having a hinged clamp rack has been in my mind for awhile so what the heck, it not that pretty, but it is pretty functional…..
> 
> With 8 parallel clamps and 8 "F' clamps, it was a little heavier than I really imagined, so I have 4 black rubber bungies offsetting the weight on the hinge side. The blue bungies on the front are "just in case".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the weight, I wanted a way to close it quickly and safely so I have a spring loaded catch on the ceiling so you can just snap it closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a side benefit, I flip the clamps up and use it as a level clamping surface with access to all sides of the project - I didn't honestly plan it this way - but it works out pretty well. Have used it on several glue-ups and it's only 2 weeks old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple more shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure it's not an unique idea, but this is my design. If you are tight on space, have low ceilings and do alot of clamping, then maybe it's the thing to do? Used re-purposed 2×4's from my last shop expansion so really no cost to build. Also have 2 safety latches, one on each side that I lock just in case, like I said, it's heavier than you think.
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Cool!!!


----------



## dbhost

JL7 said:


> *Flip Down Clamp Rack...*
> 
> Previously, I stored my longer clamps up between the floor joists, which worked ok, except they were kind of a pain to sneak them out of the cleats. Recently I added on a bit to the shop so had a stretch of open ceiling.
> 
> The idea of having a hinged clamp rack has been in my mind for awhile so what the heck, it not that pretty, but it is pretty functional…..
> 
> With 8 parallel clamps and 8 "F' clamps, it was a little heavier than I really imagined, so I have 4 black rubber bungies offsetting the weight on the hinge side. The blue bungies on the front are "just in case".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the weight, I wanted a way to close it quickly and safely so I have a spring loaded catch on the ceiling so you can just snap it closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a side benefit, I flip the clamps up and use it as a level clamping surface with access to all sides of the project - I didn't honestly plan it this way - but it works out pretty well. Have used it on several glue-ups and it's only 2 weeks old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple more shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure it's not an unique idea, but this is my design. If you are tight on space, have low ceilings and do alot of clamping, then maybe it's the thing to do? Used re-purposed 2×4's from my last shop expansion so really no cost to build. Also have 2 safety latches, one on each side that I lock just in case, like I said, it's heavier than you think.
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


That looks like a great use of overhead space! Good job…


----------



## DrSawdust

JL7 said:


> *Flip Down Clamp Rack...*
> 
> Previously, I stored my longer clamps up between the floor joists, which worked ok, except they were kind of a pain to sneak them out of the cleats. Recently I added on a bit to the shop so had a stretch of open ceiling.
> 
> The idea of having a hinged clamp rack has been in my mind for awhile so what the heck, it not that pretty, but it is pretty functional…..
> 
> With 8 parallel clamps and 8 "F' clamps, it was a little heavier than I really imagined, so I have 4 black rubber bungies offsetting the weight on the hinge side. The blue bungies on the front are "just in case".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the weight, I wanted a way to close it quickly and safely so I have a spring loaded catch on the ceiling so you can just snap it closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a side benefit, I flip the clamps up and use it as a level clamping surface with access to all sides of the project - I didn't honestly plan it this way - but it works out pretty well. Have used it on several glue-ups and it's only 2 weeks old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple more shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure it's not an unique idea, but this is my design. If you are tight on space, have low ceilings and do alot of clamping, then maybe it's the thing to do? Used re-purposed 2×4's from my last shop expansion so really no cost to build. Also have 2 safety latches, one on each side that I lock just in case, like I said, it's heavier than you think.
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Unfinished overhead rafters have created some of most useful storage areas. Excellent work.


----------



## FatherHooligan

JL7 said:


> *Flip Down Clamp Rack...*
> 
> Previously, I stored my longer clamps up between the floor joists, which worked ok, except they were kind of a pain to sneak them out of the cleats. Recently I added on a bit to the shop so had a stretch of open ceiling.
> 
> The idea of having a hinged clamp rack has been in my mind for awhile so what the heck, it not that pretty, but it is pretty functional…..
> 
> With 8 parallel clamps and 8 "F' clamps, it was a little heavier than I really imagined, so I have 4 black rubber bungies offsetting the weight on the hinge side. The blue bungies on the front are "just in case".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the weight, I wanted a way to close it quickly and safely so I have a spring loaded catch on the ceiling so you can just snap it closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a side benefit, I flip the clamps up and use it as a level clamping surface with access to all sides of the project - I didn't honestly plan it this way - but it works out pretty well. Have used it on several glue-ups and it's only 2 weeks old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple more shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure it's not an unique idea, but this is my design. If you are tight on space, have low ceilings and do alot of clamping, then maybe it's the thing to do? Used re-purposed 2×4's from my last shop expansion so really no cost to build. Also have 2 safety latches, one on each side that I lock just in case, like I said, it's heavier than you think.
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Elegant solution! It is cool that you can also use it to as a clamping jig.


----------



## Dusty56

JL7 said:


> *Flip Down Clamp Rack...*
> 
> Previously, I stored my longer clamps up between the floor joists, which worked ok, except they were kind of a pain to sneak them out of the cleats. Recently I added on a bit to the shop so had a stretch of open ceiling.
> 
> The idea of having a hinged clamp rack has been in my mind for awhile so what the heck, it not that pretty, but it is pretty functional…..
> 
> With 8 parallel clamps and 8 "F' clamps, it was a little heavier than I really imagined, so I have 4 black rubber bungies offsetting the weight on the hinge side. The blue bungies on the front are "just in case".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the weight, I wanted a way to close it quickly and safely so I have a spring loaded catch on the ceiling so you can just snap it closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a side benefit, I flip the clamps up and use it as a level clamping surface with access to all sides of the project - I didn't honestly plan it this way - but it works out pretty well. Have used it on several glue-ups and it's only 2 weeks old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple more shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure it's not an unique idea, but this is my design. If you are tight on space, have low ceilings and do alot of clamping, then maybe it's the thing to do? Used re-purposed 2×4's from my last shop expansion so really no cost to build. Also have 2 safety latches, one on each side that I lock just in case, like I said, it's heavier than you think.
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Awesome design and use of space : )


----------



## Gregn

JL7 said:


> *Flip Down Clamp Rack...*
> 
> Previously, I stored my longer clamps up between the floor joists, which worked ok, except they were kind of a pain to sneak them out of the cleats. Recently I added on a bit to the shop so had a stretch of open ceiling.
> 
> The idea of having a hinged clamp rack has been in my mind for awhile so what the heck, it not that pretty, but it is pretty functional…..
> 
> With 8 parallel clamps and 8 "F' clamps, it was a little heavier than I really imagined, so I have 4 black rubber bungies offsetting the weight on the hinge side. The blue bungies on the front are "just in case".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the weight, I wanted a way to close it quickly and safely so I have a spring loaded catch on the ceiling so you can just snap it closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a side benefit, I flip the clamps up and use it as a level clamping surface with access to all sides of the project - I didn't honestly plan it this way - but it works out pretty well. Have used it on several glue-ups and it's only 2 weeks old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple more shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure it's not an unique idea, but this is my design. If you are tight on space, have low ceilings and do alot of clamping, then maybe it's the thing to do? Used re-purposed 2×4's from my last shop expansion so really no cost to build. Also have 2 safety latches, one on each side that I lock just in case, like I said, it's heavier than you think.
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Have been thinking of an overhead clamp rack for my new shop which has a low ceiling. 
Now that you've used yours for about a year. Do you think the use of gas rods (like those used for van tailgates) would be more beneficial in carrying the weight of the clamps in raising and lowering the rack over using the system your now using? I'm short with 8' ceilings with not much room to move around in and would have to stand on a step stools to reach it. I would need to make it easy to use safely. I have pipe clamps I would like to do this with also which are heavy by themselves. Hence the questions about improving on your design. I figure you have a good prototype to work from and might have some ideas on how to improve on your design.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Flip Down Clamp Rack...*
> 
> Previously, I stored my longer clamps up between the floor joists, which worked ok, except they were kind of a pain to sneak them out of the cleats. Recently I added on a bit to the shop so had a stretch of open ceiling.
> 
> The idea of having a hinged clamp rack has been in my mind for awhile so what the heck, it not that pretty, but it is pretty functional…..
> 
> With 8 parallel clamps and 8 "F' clamps, it was a little heavier than I really imagined, so I have 4 black rubber bungies offsetting the weight on the hinge side. The blue bungies on the front are "just in case".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because of the weight, I wanted a way to close it quickly and safely so I have a spring loaded catch on the ceiling so you can just snap it closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a side benefit, I flip the clamps up and use it as a level clamping surface with access to all sides of the project - I didn't honestly plan it this way - but it works out pretty well. Have used it on several glue-ups and it's only 2 weeks old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple more shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure it's not an unique idea, but this is my design. If you are tight on space, have low ceilings and do alot of clamping, then maybe it's the thing to do? Used re-purposed 2×4's from my last shop expansion so really no cost to build. Also have 2 safety latches, one on each side that I lock just in case, like I said, it's heavier than you think.
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Greg,

My shop has 7' ceiling, so that extra foot of space is clearly an issue. One thought, make the rack longer so it extends down to level you want. You may also discover a space in your shop that allows you to mount it lower, say a foot down from the ceiling, maybe mounting the hinge side to a wall?

I considered the gas shocks and I actually have a set from something else, but I can't seem to engineer them into the design because they act in reverse of what I want. They push instead of pull. I'm not sure if they make a version that pulls?

At any rate, I think you can find solutions that could work for you - it really is a handy gadget and it see's alot of use.

Please post your results if if give it a go!

Jeff


----------



## JL7

*Crosscut Sled*

This sled is mostly re-purposed materials and patterened after the Woodsmith online design. The differences are I used a standard T-track (instead of the Kreg track), designed my own stop jig and built my own knobs out of mdf.

The really cool thing about this jig is the removable extension stop + the adjustable throat opening for allowing dado cuts.

Please excuse the purple color, it was part of the fact that my shop used to be a family room and those panels were doors from the bar….....the front and rear fences are Maple flooring.

The knob on the right right has a matching knob on the front right of the sled to adjust the throat opening.










Here is a photo with the extension fence attached - If you remove the the 2 knobs on the left, the extension pops off.










Front view of the stop block:










Back view of the stop block, used scrap Tigerwood for the stop:










One more view:










Not pretty, but effective…...thanks for your comments…

Jeff


----------



## woodworkerscott

JL7 said:


> *Crosscut Sled*
> 
> This sled is mostly re-purposed materials and patterened after the Woodsmith online design. The differences are I used a standard T-track (instead of the Kreg track), designed my own stop jig and built my own knobs out of mdf.
> 
> The really cool thing about this jig is the removable extension stop + the adjustable throat opening for allowing dado cuts.
> 
> Please excuse the purple color, it was part of the fact that my shop used to be a family room and those panels were doors from the bar….....the front and rear fences are Maple flooring.
> 
> The knob on the right right has a matching knob on the front right of the sled to adjust the throat opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo with the extension fence attached - If you remove the the 2 knobs on the left, the extension pops off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view of the stop block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back view of the stop block, used scrap Tigerwood for the stop:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not pretty, but effective…...thanks for your comments…
> 
> Jeff


Functional and well developed. Neccessity is the mother of invention, afterall.


----------



## NBeener

JL7 said:


> *Crosscut Sled*
> 
> This sled is mostly re-purposed materials and patterened after the Woodsmith online design. The differences are I used a standard T-track (instead of the Kreg track), designed my own stop jig and built my own knobs out of mdf.
> 
> The really cool thing about this jig is the removable extension stop + the adjustable throat opening for allowing dado cuts.
> 
> Please excuse the purple color, it was part of the fact that my shop used to be a family room and those panels were doors from the bar….....the front and rear fences are Maple flooring.
> 
> The knob on the right right has a matching knob on the front right of the sled to adjust the throat opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo with the extension fence attached - If you remove the the 2 knobs on the left, the extension pops off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view of the stop block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back view of the stop block, used scrap Tigerwood for the stop:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not pretty, but effective…...thanks for your comments…
> 
> Jeff


1st: Verrrry cool !

2nd: Is that the Mule Accusquare


> ? Do you love it


 Every few weeks, it pops into my head as something to think about … as the "Final Upgrade" to my contractor's saw … that would transfer to that cabinet saw that I'm always thinking about ;-)

Nice design. Nice build !


----------



## sras

JL7 said:


> *Crosscut Sled*
> 
> This sled is mostly re-purposed materials and patterened after the Woodsmith online design. The differences are I used a standard T-track (instead of the Kreg track), designed my own stop jig and built my own knobs out of mdf.
> 
> The really cool thing about this jig is the removable extension stop + the adjustable throat opening for allowing dado cuts.
> 
> Please excuse the purple color, it was part of the fact that my shop used to be a family room and those panels were doors from the bar….....the front and rear fences are Maple flooring.
> 
> The knob on the right right has a matching knob on the front right of the sled to adjust the throat opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo with the extension fence attached - If you remove the the 2 knobs on the left, the extension pops off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view of the stop block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back view of the stop block, used scrap Tigerwood for the stop:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not pretty, but effective…...thanks for your comments…
> 
> Jeff


Nice job on the sled! I still need to get that stop block on mine… A very useful jig!


----------



## Robb

JL7 said:


> *Crosscut Sled*
> 
> This sled is mostly re-purposed materials and patterened after the Woodsmith online design. The differences are I used a standard T-track (instead of the Kreg track), designed my own stop jig and built my own knobs out of mdf.
> 
> The really cool thing about this jig is the removable extension stop + the adjustable throat opening for allowing dado cuts.
> 
> Please excuse the purple color, it was part of the fact that my shop used to be a family room and those panels were doors from the bar….....the front and rear fences are Maple flooring.
> 
> The knob on the right right has a matching knob on the front right of the sled to adjust the throat opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo with the extension fence attached - If you remove the the 2 knobs on the left, the extension pops off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view of the stop block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back view of the stop block, used scrap Tigerwood for the stop:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not pretty, but effective…...thanks for your comments…
> 
> Jeff


That's a sweet looking sled. I love the track and, as Steve mentioned above, the stop block. I need to get a little time to work on "shop infrastructure," as I call it, and add those things to my sled, too.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Crosscut Sled*
> 
> This sled is mostly re-purposed materials and patterened after the Woodsmith online design. The differences are I used a standard T-track (instead of the Kreg track), designed my own stop jig and built my own knobs out of mdf.
> 
> The really cool thing about this jig is the removable extension stop + the adjustable throat opening for allowing dado cuts.
> 
> Please excuse the purple color, it was part of the fact that my shop used to be a family room and those panels were doors from the bar….....the front and rear fences are Maple flooring.
> 
> The knob on the right right has a matching knob on the front right of the sled to adjust the throat opening.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a photo with the extension fence attached - If you remove the the 2 knobs on the left, the extension pops off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view of the stop block:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back view of the stop block, used scrap Tigerwood for the stop:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more view:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not pretty, but effective…...thanks for your comments…
> 
> Jeff


Thanks for the comments…......

Neil - That's an Incra TS jig and fence. Works awesome and will bolt up to any saw.

Jeff


----------



## JL7

*Poor Man's Drum Sander*

Here is my down and dirty drum sander. I got the Radial Arm Saw for free off of Craigslist. A couple of weeks later I saw the ad for the Performax S/T drum sander, very inexpensively. This was their first product offering and without a power feed table, is pretty hard to control. Then I found a solution, I aquired the extruded aluminum slides and table soon after, again, a Craiglist find. The table has four ball bearing rollers that ride in the aluminum channel.

I have never used a traditional drum sander with the power feed, so I can't compare the performance, but with this setup, you can feed the project back and forth under the drum without picking up the work. You basically grab the handle, pull the board through, and then hang on tight and let it go backwards through the drum. I'm sure someone will speak up to say it can't be done this way, but it really works fine.

I also lucked out and got several Timesaver sanding belts (free) that I was able to cut into strips for the drum. Total investment in the whole rig is less than $100.

I have caught the cutting board bug since hanging out on this forum, and the drum sander literally shaves hours of sanding time away when making those end grain boards.

Appreciate your comments…..

Jeff


----------



## Rustic

JL7 said:


> *Poor Man's Drum Sander*
> 
> Here is my down and dirty drum sander. I got the Radial Arm Saw for free off of Craigslist. A couple of weeks later I saw the ad for the Performax S/T drum sander, very inexpensively. This was their first product offering and without a power feed table, is pretty hard to control. Then I found a solution, I aquired the extruded aluminum slides and table soon after, again, a Craiglist find. The table has four ball bearing rollers that ride in the aluminum channel.
> 
> I have never used a traditional drum sander with the power feed, so I can't compare the performance, but with this setup, you can feed the project back and forth under the drum without picking up the work. You basically grab the handle, pull the board through, and then hang on tight and let it go backwards through the drum. I'm sure someone will speak up to say it can't be done this way, but it really works fine.
> 
> I also lucked out and got several Timesaver sanding belts (free) that I was able to cut into strips for the drum. Total investment in the whole rig is less than $100.
> 
> I have caught the cutting board bug since hanging out on this forum, and the drum sander literally shaves hours of sanding time away when making those end grain boards.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..
> 
> Jeff


very cool can you take a video of it working that would be awesome


----------



## Dark_Lightning

JL7 said:


> *Poor Man's Drum Sander*
> 
> Here is my down and dirty drum sander. I got the Radial Arm Saw for free off of Craigslist. A couple of weeks later I saw the ad for the Performax S/T drum sander, very inexpensively. This was their first product offering and without a power feed table, is pretty hard to control. Then I found a solution, I aquired the extruded aluminum slides and table soon after, again, a Craiglist find. The table has four ball bearing rollers that ride in the aluminum channel.
> 
> I have never used a traditional drum sander with the power feed, so I can't compare the performance, but with this setup, you can feed the project back and forth under the drum without picking up the work. You basically grab the handle, pull the board through, and then hang on tight and let it go backwards through the drum. I'm sure someone will speak up to say it can't be done this way, but it really works fine.
> 
> I also lucked out and got several Timesaver sanding belts (free) that I was able to cut into strips for the drum. Total investment in the whole rig is less than $100.
> 
> I have caught the cutting board bug since hanging out on this forum, and the drum sander literally shaves hours of sanding time away when making those end grain boards.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..
> 
> Jeff


What a monster! color me jealous.


----------



## tburritt

JL7 said:


> *Poor Man's Drum Sander*
> 
> Here is my down and dirty drum sander. I got the Radial Arm Saw for free off of Craigslist. A couple of weeks later I saw the ad for the Performax S/T drum sander, very inexpensively. This was their first product offering and without a power feed table, is pretty hard to control. Then I found a solution, I aquired the extruded aluminum slides and table soon after, again, a Craiglist find. The table has four ball bearing rollers that ride in the aluminum channel.
> 
> I have never used a traditional drum sander with the power feed, so I can't compare the performance, but with this setup, you can feed the project back and forth under the drum without picking up the work. You basically grab the handle, pull the board through, and then hang on tight and let it go backwards through the drum. I'm sure someone will speak up to say it can't be done this way, but it really works fine.
> 
> I also lucked out and got several Timesaver sanding belts (free) that I was able to cut into strips for the drum. Total investment in the whole rig is less than $100.
> 
> I have caught the cutting board bug since hanging out on this forum, and the drum sander literally shaves hours of sanding time away when making those end grain boards.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..
> 
> Jeff


Very creative solution to a problem and the best is it didn't cost you an arm and a leg! I video of you using it would be great like Rustic said.


----------



## RonPeters

JL7 said:


> *Poor Man's Drum Sander*
> 
> Here is my down and dirty drum sander. I got the Radial Arm Saw for free off of Craigslist. A couple of weeks later I saw the ad for the Performax S/T drum sander, very inexpensively. This was their first product offering and without a power feed table, is pretty hard to control. Then I found a solution, I aquired the extruded aluminum slides and table soon after, again, a Craiglist find. The table has four ball bearing rollers that ride in the aluminum channel.
> 
> I have never used a traditional drum sander with the power feed, so I can't compare the performance, but with this setup, you can feed the project back and forth under the drum without picking up the work. You basically grab the handle, pull the board through, and then hang on tight and let it go backwards through the drum. I'm sure someone will speak up to say it can't be done this way, but it really works fine.
> 
> I also lucked out and got several Timesaver sanding belts (free) that I was able to cut into strips for the drum. Total investment in the whole rig is less than $100.
> 
> I have caught the cutting board bug since hanging out on this forum, and the drum sander literally shaves hours of sanding time away when making those end grain boards.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..
> 
> Jeff


Maybe you can connect a screw to the table and power it with a motor?


----------



## jockmike2

JL7 said:


> *Poor Man's Drum Sander*
> 
> Here is my down and dirty drum sander. I got the Radial Arm Saw for free off of Craigslist. A couple of weeks later I saw the ad for the Performax S/T drum sander, very inexpensively. This was their first product offering and without a power feed table, is pretty hard to control. Then I found a solution, I aquired the extruded aluminum slides and table soon after, again, a Craiglist find. The table has four ball bearing rollers that ride in the aluminum channel.
> 
> I have never used a traditional drum sander with the power feed, so I can't compare the performance, but with this setup, you can feed the project back and forth under the drum without picking up the work. You basically grab the handle, pull the board through, and then hang on tight and let it go backwards through the drum. I'm sure someone will speak up to say it can't be done this way, but it really works fine.
> 
> I also lucked out and got several Timesaver sanding belts (free) that I was able to cut into strips for the drum. Total investment in the whole rig is less than $100.
> 
> I have caught the cutting board bug since hanging out on this forum, and the drum sander literally shaves hours of sanding time away when making those end grain boards.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..
> 
> Jeff


AWESOME!!!


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Poor Man's Drum Sander*
> 
> Here is my down and dirty drum sander. I got the Radial Arm Saw for free off of Craigslist. A couple of weeks later I saw the ad for the Performax S/T drum sander, very inexpensively. This was their first product offering and without a power feed table, is pretty hard to control. Then I found a solution, I aquired the extruded aluminum slides and table soon after, again, a Craiglist find. The table has four ball bearing rollers that ride in the aluminum channel.
> 
> I have never used a traditional drum sander with the power feed, so I can't compare the performance, but with this setup, you can feed the project back and forth under the drum without picking up the work. You basically grab the handle, pull the board through, and then hang on tight and let it go backwards through the drum. I'm sure someone will speak up to say it can't be done this way, but it really works fine.
> 
> I also lucked out and got several Timesaver sanding belts (free) that I was able to cut into strips for the drum. Total investment in the whole rig is less than $100.
> 
> I have caught the cutting board bug since hanging out on this forum, and the drum sander literally shaves hours of sanding time away when making those end grain boards.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..
> 
> Jeff


Sweet. Good for you.
I had forgotten about this adapter. 
There seem to be a lot of RAS for sale for cheap.
This is a great idea.

Steve


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Poor Man's Drum Sander*
> 
> Here is my down and dirty drum sander. I got the Radial Arm Saw for free off of Craigslist. A couple of weeks later I saw the ad for the Performax S/T drum sander, very inexpensively. This was their first product offering and without a power feed table, is pretty hard to control. Then I found a solution, I aquired the extruded aluminum slides and table soon after, again, a Craiglist find. The table has four ball bearing rollers that ride in the aluminum channel.
> 
> I have never used a traditional drum sander with the power feed, so I can't compare the performance, but with this setup, you can feed the project back and forth under the drum without picking up the work. You basically grab the handle, pull the board through, and then hang on tight and let it go backwards through the drum. I'm sure someone will speak up to say it can't be done this way, but it really works fine.
> 
> I also lucked out and got several Timesaver sanding belts (free) that I was able to cut into strips for the drum. Total investment in the whole rig is less than $100.
> 
> I have caught the cutting board bug since hanging out on this forum, and the drum sander literally shaves hours of sanding time away when making those end grain boards.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..
> 
> Jeff


Hey thanks for the comments…...much appreciated. I posted the requested video here:  click


----------



## WoodArtbyJR

JL7 said:


> *Poor Man's Drum Sander*
> 
> Here is my down and dirty drum sander. I got the Radial Arm Saw for free off of Craigslist. A couple of weeks later I saw the ad for the Performax S/T drum sander, very inexpensively. This was their first product offering and without a power feed table, is pretty hard to control. Then I found a solution, I aquired the extruded aluminum slides and table soon after, again, a Craiglist find. The table has four ball bearing rollers that ride in the aluminum channel.
> 
> I have never used a traditional drum sander with the power feed, so I can't compare the performance, but with this setup, you can feed the project back and forth under the drum without picking up the work. You basically grab the handle, pull the board through, and then hang on tight and let it go backwards through the drum. I'm sure someone will speak up to say it can't be done this way, but it really works fine.
> 
> I also lucked out and got several Timesaver sanding belts (free) that I was able to cut into strips for the drum. Total investment in the whole rig is less than $100.
> 
> I have caught the cutting board bug since hanging out on this forum, and the drum sander literally shaves hours of sanding time away when making those end grain boards.
> 
> Appreciate your comments…..
> 
> Jeff


Jeff,
To quote a pretty famous person, "necessity, who is the mother of invention", or more commonly said, necessity is the mother of invention. You have proven that the quote is very true. Very nice job. You're probably wondering how you actually got along without it before this. It will open up all kinds of possibilities and give you more wood to play with.


----------



## JL7

*Drum Sander - The Video*

I posted a blog yesterday on the drum sander and some of you requested a video, so here goes:


----------



## Rustic

JL7 said:


> *Drum Sander - The Video*
> 
> I posted a blog yesterday on the drum sander and some of you requested a video, so here goes:


how do you set the depth of sanding? and can it be adjusted? I would love to have one


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Drum Sander - The Video*
> 
> I posted a blog yesterday on the drum sander and some of you requested a video, so here goes:


Rick,

The height is adjusted by raising or lowering the radial arm using the crank under the front of the table. If you watch the video again, i did adjust it down once during the sanding. You can only turn it a smidge at a time tho….

Jeff


----------



## RonPeters

JL7 said:


> *Drum Sander - The Video*
> 
> I posted a blog yesterday on the drum sander and some of you requested a video, so here goes:


Rick,
A tip for you (and everyone else) on taking video - MOVE SLOWLY. If you compare yours to what you see on youtube or tv (unless it's for special effect) they move slowly.

I would have used a tripod and set it up in an advantageous location. Set the lens wide. Turn it on and explain your sander. I think you are concentrating on pointing the camera as well as talking about the machine. That's a lot to do in one brain. The other option is to have a cameraman.

Another addition that most don't do is to feed the signal to a monitor/TV. The ability to control and view is enhanced greatly compared to that little screen.

Thanks for explaining your system. Not trying to pick on ya! Just passing on my experience.


----------



## dbhost

JL7 said:


> *Drum Sander - The Video*
> 
> I posted a blog yesterday on the drum sander and some of you requested a video, so here goes:


The videography needs help, but I love the sander. I agree though, the dust collection on that is pretty bad. As soon as you are up to it, upgrade that shroud! Your lungs, AND your ears will thank you.


----------



## Rustic

JL7 said:


> *Drum Sander - The Video*
> 
> I posted a blog yesterday on the drum sander and some of you requested a video, so here goes:


Thanks Jeff


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Drum Sander - The Video*
> 
> I posted a blog yesterday on the drum sander and some of you requested a video, so here goes:


Hey Rick - you're welcome…..

Ron and db - sorry for the crappy video - clearly not my calling, but I appreciate your tips….........look out YouTube…

Jeff


----------



## Rustic

JL7 said:


> *Drum Sander - The Video*
> 
> I posted a blog yesterday on the drum sander and some of you requested a video, so here goes:


the vid was not bad for a beginner


----------



## jockmike2

JL7 said:


> *Drum Sander - The Video*
> 
> I posted a blog yesterday on the drum sander and some of you requested a video, so here goes:


GREAT IMPROVISATION, I LIKE THE WAY YOU'VE HOOKED EVERYTHING TO RUN SO SMOOTHLY, GOOD VID TOO. THANK YOU.


----------



## JL7

*New Incra Router Table*

I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.

This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.

Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.

The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..

I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.

Appreciate your suggestions and comments….

Jeff


----------



## grub32

JL7 said:


> *New Incra Router Table*
> 
> I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.
> 
> This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.
> 
> Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.
> 
> The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..
> 
> I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.
> 
> Appreciate your suggestions and comments….
> 
> Jeff


Boy that turned out great…I dont have the incra fence but I have heard nothing but great things about it…You are going to love it. My Router Table and fence was the most valuable project I have ever built for myself and shop.

Grub


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *New Incra Router Table*
> 
> I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.
> 
> This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.
> 
> Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.
> 
> The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..
> 
> I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.
> 
> Appreciate your suggestions and comments….
> 
> Jeff


Thanks Grub, The Incra fences are great, I have 3 of them actually, including the LS/TS table saw fence. I guess I'm hooked. I just fired it up a little bit ago, and the first impressions are good. Changing bits quickly above the table is superb!

I'll be working on improving the dust collection behind the fence…..short of buying the Wonder Fence, the Incra fences don't do that well at dust collection above the table…...

Jeff


----------



## nobuckle

JL7 said:


> *New Incra Router Table*
> 
> I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.
> 
> This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.
> 
> Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.
> 
> The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..
> 
> I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.
> 
> Appreciate your suggestions and comments….
> 
> Jeff


Dude you could park a truck on that thing. We used to use that same type of extrusion in a shop I worked at. If those were scrap pieces I'll give you my address and maybe you can send me some, lol. Where I live that stuff is about ten dollars a foot. You have the Mac Daddy of router tables. Way to go!

Doug, Ohio


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *New Incra Router Table*
> 
> I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.
> 
> This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.
> 
> Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.
> 
> The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..
> 
> I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.
> 
> Appreciate your suggestions and comments….
> 
> Jeff


Hey Doug,

You're right, this stuff is super spendy. We paid thousands of dollars each for the original cabinets that I got. I have been working the angles for six monthes to get this material which was going to be sold for scrap value.

I have another set of casters plus enough extrusion to build another one, or….....something else…time will tell. Cutting the stuff square is tricky and kind of a pain. My 18" bandsaw has a metal cutting transmission on it, but I haven't fidured out how to make a square cut yet, so have to use the disc sander after each cut.

Not complaining, it's like pennies from heaven.

Jeff


----------



## ChuckC

JL7 said:


> *New Incra Router Table*
> 
> I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.
> 
> This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.
> 
> Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.
> 
> The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..
> 
> I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.
> 
> Appreciate your suggestions and comments….
> 
> Jeff


If there's ever a hurricane in your area, hide under that table 
That router table looks great!


----------



## mnrhuff

JL7 said:


> *New Incra Router Table*
> 
> I finally got the materials together to build a decent router table. I have had the Incra Ultra Jig around for awhile now, and have used it on some of my previous router tables, but my homemade tops were always off just a little. Always seem to have trouble getting the router plates to sit just right in the opening, etc.
> 
> This time I bit the bullet and bought Woodpeckers 27×43 offset table along with the PRL V2 lift (very sweet!). I acquired the extruded aluminum pieces from some discarded carts at work.
> 
> Putting the aluminum base together was a lot trickier than it looks. All the pieces must be precisely cross drilled at each joint in order to slide an allen wrench through the extrusion and tighten the joint. The black panels around the dust box are installed with rubber U-channel into the t-slot of the aluminum so they are tight and don't vibrate.
> 
> The casters are industrial strength and they have a rubber foot that threads down with a large thumb wheel to level the machine and reduce vibration. It's a pretty heavy rig, so I expect it should run pretty smooth, I haven't test driven it yet……..
> 
> I plan on building drawer units to slide into the two shelves on the base.
> 
> Appreciate your suggestions and comments….
> 
> Jeff


Jeff, cutting the aluminum is actually Super easy to get a square cut. Just use your miter saw. The aluminum won't even bother a decent blade. I use a standard carbide blade on my delta sidekick to cut aluminum. Save your good blades for making sawdust…. and one for the aluminum stock.


----------



## JL7

*Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips*

I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..

So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.

I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.

I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.

Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.

Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….


----------



## Pawky

JL7 said:


> *Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips*
> 
> I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..
> 
> So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.
> 
> I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.
> 
> I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.
> 
> Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.
> 
> Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….


A very nice idea, thank you.

On a side note, that is also a beautiful looking cutting board! Do you have a picture of the whole board? What wood did you use? Thanks you


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips*
> 
> I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..
> 
> So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.
> 
> I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.
> 
> I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.
> 
> Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.
> 
> Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….


Pawky - just posted some details on this board here


----------



## Dusty56

JL7 said:


> *Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips*
> 
> I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..
> 
> So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.
> 
> I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.
> 
> I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.
> 
> Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.
> 
> Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….


Ahhhh…the bottom side of Board #2 : ) Love how you brought the end grains to life and now I can see the Yellowheart in this picture : )
Did you chamfer before or after you coved with the bowl bit ? I guess that would depend if you did the chamfer against a router table fence or with a router bit with bearing , ay ? LOL
Either way , nice work : )


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips*
> 
> I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..
> 
> So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.
> 
> I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.
> 
> I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.
> 
> Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.
> 
> Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….


Hey Dusty - I chamfered first - not sure it thats right or wrong, but that's the routine I follow…..


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips*
> 
> I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..
> 
> So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.
> 
> I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.
> 
> I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.
> 
> Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.
> 
> Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….


Nice.
I was always wondering if a bowl bit would do a nice job for this.
I love the adjustable stop pegs. Clever.

Steve


----------



## degoose

JL7 said:


> *Simple Jig for Cutting Board Finger Grips*
> 
> I've been building a bunch of cutting boards because I got the bug! Can't help it hanging around this site…..
> 
> So the pile of boards was stacking up and needed to get the finishing touches done. I wanted to cut the finger grip things (not sure what the correct title is?). Previously I built a plywood jig that clamps to the board and uses a handheld router to clean up. This works fine, but I had issues with tearout.
> 
> I came up with a simple jig for the router table the uses a (somewhat) zero clearance fence and a simple adjustable stop system that let's you adjust the length of cut, just move the dowels. Without the adjustment, the wider the board, the shorter the slot (grip?) will be, so this allows you to adjust for the different board widths.
> 
> I use a Whiteside 1-1/4" bowl and tray bit for the slots. The fence is a squared up 2×4 with the bit opening cut slighly undersize on the band saw and then plunged into the bit for final size.
> 
> Start with a 1/8" deep cut and move the fence an 1/8" at a time until you get what you want.
> 
> Works really good - cut about 12 or so cutting boards on it today….


Missed this first time around… very sweet… love the adjustable dowels…


----------



## JL7

*Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*



















Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.



















Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.

Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.

I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.



















On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.














































Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.










Thanks for looking,

Jeff


----------



## jcwalleye

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


I'll be the first. Holy Smokes. Nice job.


----------



## live4ever

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


That's pretty darn sweet!


----------



## sras

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


A ton of great ideas here. Excellent table!


----------



## ChrisForthofer

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


I've looked at that aluminum extrusion for building shop tables and fixtures and was curious if you wouldn't mind sharing how much you spent on the setup as you have it there. I am considering a combination table saw/router table rig using that stuff but from what I have seen ply/cabinet construction is cheaper. Do you have any secrets for getting the extrusion cheap you'd be willing to share? Great looking outfit by the way!

Chris.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


*Thanks for the comments - I appreciate it!*
Chris - I aquired the aluminum from work in the form of 2 specialized carts - here are a couple of photos of the salvaged carts:



















Suffice to say that I got them really cheap! If you were to buy the stuff new, it would be really expensive. Much more than ply/cabinet option. I have also aquired some of this type of material on Craigslist, but that's really hit or miss (mostly miss).

Regardless, the material I am using is made by Parker

Another option is 80/20

Beyond that, just keep your eyes open, you never know what you might stumble upon!

Jeff


----------



## DocK16

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


Some nice ideas to steal here. Have had the Incra Ultra for awhile but have always wanted the Wonder Fence. May be on my next Christmas list.


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


Yes, a lot of creation here. It looks like a NASA router table . Great blog. SHould I find 80 20, will be PM you.
Take care, and happy Holidays


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


Hey Fernando, I noticed that they sell the 80/20 extrusion on Amazon.com, but that's probably not a great option if you happen to live in Buenos Aires? You have some cool projects going yourself - I checked them out. Happy Holidays to you.

Jeff


----------



## bues0022

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


Jeff- Did you pick up your rare earth magnets locally? I need a few small ones for a little project tonight, and finally read your blog here and saw you used them.

I'll have to keep my eyes open at work and on CL for some of that tubing. I've kept my eyes open here at work since seeing your shop, and notice similar cabinets using the same tubing - I need to find out who manages the labs and get on their good side when they decide to remodel!


----------



## brianinpa

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


You gotta love when junk turns into a treasure. Nice work and a very nice design.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


Ryan - I thinks Menards carrys a limited supply of the magnets - I got these at Hartsville Tool (online), probably this, they do a bundle pretty cheap, the catch is you have buy the holders separately. Pretty handy to have around tho….....

Jeff


----------



## bigike

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


very nice thanks for sharing.


----------



## bdjohns1

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


Ok, that is an absolutely awesome router table. Bonus points for applying lean manufacturing concepts in your design! (My day job is basically as an internal lean six sigma consultant for my company.)


----------



## bigike

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


another look at your set up and I would throw a big gulp in the bottom of the cabinet where the router is to up the dust collection for the router, http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11312&rrt=1
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16972&filter=dust%20collection
I think either one of these should fit if you cut a square hole in the bottom and either double stick tape it in or screw it or caulk it in. Just make shure the open part is upwards facing the top of the router, this way when dust falls it gets sucked down into the port and you don't have to clean out the cabinet.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


Hey Ike - very good point….the basic box doesn't work very good for dust collection, as a matter of fact it will simply fill to the top with dust….

So I installed 2 baffles - the one behind the router is permanent and the one is front is removeable - sits in a grooved board…..this works much better and keeps the router running cool as well.


----------



## john1102

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - More Progress.....*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the last post, I have added the Wonder Fence to the Ultra Jig, this adds a better (above the table) dust collection option. So now I have a 3" hose into the bottom box and a 2-1/2" hose into the fence, both controlled with separate blast gates.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also added a vent in the dust access door. This is a 2 piece unit that you can remove the outside grate and install a filter or (in my case) some sort of baffle. I need to experiment more to see what kind of airflow I need with the dust collection running.
> 
> Actually, the bigger issue is the PC7518 running hot due to the closed box. The added air flow should help.
> 
> I should also mention, I like the knee switch mounted in the front right corner of the table, it allows access when working from the front or the side of the table - you never know when that might come into play.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the table - I added the "essential tool storage" flip down door rack thing. There was an open space next to the dust box that makes the right sized space for tool storage. Sort of based on Lean Manufacturing techniques, the tools have a specific space to live. I used raw earth magnets (and some router cutouts) to hold the tools in place. Also added some 1/4-20 bolts on the right side of the dust box to hold the Woodpeckers table inserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up, I boudht some full extension drawer slides at Rockler today and will be adding 3 drawers to the upper open section. The bottom open section is still under development.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking,
> 
> Jeff


very creative


----------



## JL7

*Incra Router Table - Template Holder*










Before getting into the specifics, I should say, this won't mean much unless you own an Incra positioner, but if you don't own one, they really do a great job in repeatable cuts, unmatched actually. In the past 2 years, I have purchased 3 different Incra setups off of Craigslist for less than 50 cents on the dollar. I gave one of them to my Dad, and still have the Ultra which I'm using on this router table, along with the TS LS (table saw linear screw) on my table saw.

I also have an original Incra jig (which I purchased new) on a smaller homemade table that makes a great second table setup. Functionally the original jig (which is all plastic) has the same precision, but just less travel, and these can be purchased new with a fence for around $100 or so.

So if you are interested in an Incra, keep your eyes peeled, they are out there and worth the money!

Anyways, back to topic, there are 50 templates that come with the larger Incra positioners, and are always a pain to find the one you are looking for, here is a photo of the raw templates:










I was inspired by these 3 sites for this project:

one

two

three

My design is mostly inspired by number 3, as a matter of fact he worked out the Incra settings in CAD and posted a roadmap that is spot on for the cuts. In addition, his design was based on using a straight cutter as opposed to a dovetail bit which I liked.

The biggest difference is I cut slots on the top and bottom of the same board, which reduces the overall thickness of the finished piece. He used 2 boards and a somewhat elaborate approach to making the thin templates stand up from the base so you can grab them.

Instead of one wide board I used 2 narrower boards for 2 reasons, I had some scraps about the right size and it is half as many fence changes to make the same result.

I started with 2 pieces of ~5/8" plywood 9" wide and followed his CAD settings to cut 13 slots on both sides of each board. They were later ripped to a final overall dimension of 17-5/8". These pieces are sandwiched between plexiglas:










To simplify the removal of the templates I designed the top row so the template sits just proud of the front edge of the plywood, this allows your finger to easily lift it up and remove. The bottom row has a narrow strip of plexi glued in front of the slots so the templates can't lay flat on the bottom, again, easy to remove:



















Since the bottom row of templates sticks out farther than the top row, I chiseled out the dividers ~1" from the back and glued in a stop.

I was originally going to mount this rig on drawer slides, but it occurred to me that it only needs to slide maybe 6" or so out the front of the cabinet to find the template you want, so decided to let this slide on it's own at the bottom of the space, it's only about 1" thick total. I am planning to add 2 bit storage drawers above this:



















When it's all said and done, I would be willing to bet that I would have spent less time searching for the right template the old way, than I did spending on building this, but what the hey, I love the gadgets…..

Thanks for looking.

Jeff


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - Template Holder*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before getting into the specifics, I should say, this won't mean much unless you own an Incra positioner, but if you don't own one, they really do a great job in repeatable cuts, unmatched actually. In the past 2 years, I have purchased 3 different Incra setups off of Craigslist for less than 50 cents on the dollar. I gave one of them to my Dad, and still have the Ultra which I'm using on this router table, along with the TS LS (table saw linear screw) on my table saw.
> 
> I also have an original Incra jig (which I purchased new) on a smaller homemade table that makes a great second table setup. Functionally the original jig (which is all plastic) has the same precision, but just less travel, and these can be purchased new with a fence for around $100 or so.
> 
> So if you are interested in an Incra, keep your eyes peeled, they are out there and worth the money!
> 
> Anyways, back to topic, there are 50 templates that come with the larger Incra positioners, and are always a pain to find the one you are looking for, here is a photo of the raw templates:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was inspired by these 3 sites for this project:
> 
> one
> 
> two
> 
> three
> 
> My design is mostly inspired by number 3, as a matter of fact he worked out the Incra settings in CAD and posted a roadmap that is spot on for the cuts. In addition, his design was based on using a straight cutter as opposed to a dovetail bit which I liked.
> 
> The biggest difference is I cut slots on the top and bottom of the same board, which reduces the overall thickness of the finished piece. He used 2 boards and a somewhat elaborate approach to making the thin templates stand up from the base so you can grab them.
> 
> Instead of one wide board I used 2 narrower boards for 2 reasons, I had some scraps about the right size and it is half as many fence changes to make the same result.
> 
> I started with 2 pieces of ~5/8" plywood 9" wide and followed his CAD settings to cut 13 slots on both sides of each board. They were later ripped to a final overall dimension of 17-5/8". These pieces are sandwiched between plexiglas:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To simplify the removal of the templates I designed the top row so the template sits just proud of the front edge of the plywood, this allows your finger to easily lift it up and remove. The bottom row has a narrow strip of plexi glued in front of the slots so the templates can't lay flat on the bottom, again, easy to remove:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the bottom row of templates sticks out farther than the top row, I chiseled out the dividers ~1" from the back and glued in a stop.
> 
> I was originally going to mount this rig on drawer slides, but it occurred to me that it only needs to slide maybe 6" or so out the front of the cabinet to find the template you want, so decided to let this slide on it's own at the bottom of the space, it's only about 1" thick total. I am planning to add 2 bit storage drawers above this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it's all said and done, I would be willing to bet that I would have spent less time searching for the right template the old way, than I did spending on building this, but what the hey, I love the gadgets…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Ha. I love your last statement. I do the same kind of things myself.

I only have the original plastic Incra Jig. It comes in really handy. Still debating going for the bigger versions. I guess I should watch eBay.

Love your table. Looks like a fun build,
Steve


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - Template Holder*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before getting into the specifics, I should say, this won't mean much unless you own an Incra positioner, but if you don't own one, they really do a great job in repeatable cuts, unmatched actually. In the past 2 years, I have purchased 3 different Incra setups off of Craigslist for less than 50 cents on the dollar. I gave one of them to my Dad, and still have the Ultra which I'm using on this router table, along with the TS LS (table saw linear screw) on my table saw.
> 
> I also have an original Incra jig (which I purchased new) on a smaller homemade table that makes a great second table setup. Functionally the original jig (which is all plastic) has the same precision, but just less travel, and these can be purchased new with a fence for around $100 or so.
> 
> So if you are interested in an Incra, keep your eyes peeled, they are out there and worth the money!
> 
> Anyways, back to topic, there are 50 templates that come with the larger Incra positioners, and are always a pain to find the one you are looking for, here is a photo of the raw templates:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was inspired by these 3 sites for this project:
> 
> one
> 
> two
> 
> three
> 
> My design is mostly inspired by number 3, as a matter of fact he worked out the Incra settings in CAD and posted a roadmap that is spot on for the cuts. In addition, his design was based on using a straight cutter as opposed to a dovetail bit which I liked.
> 
> The biggest difference is I cut slots on the top and bottom of the same board, which reduces the overall thickness of the finished piece. He used 2 boards and a somewhat elaborate approach to making the thin templates stand up from the base so you can grab them.
> 
> Instead of one wide board I used 2 narrower boards for 2 reasons, I had some scraps about the right size and it is half as many fence changes to make the same result.
> 
> I started with 2 pieces of ~5/8" plywood 9" wide and followed his CAD settings to cut 13 slots on both sides of each board. They were later ripped to a final overall dimension of 17-5/8". These pieces are sandwiched between plexiglas:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To simplify the removal of the templates I designed the top row so the template sits just proud of the front edge of the plywood, this allows your finger to easily lift it up and remove. The bottom row has a narrow strip of plexi glued in front of the slots so the templates can't lay flat on the bottom, again, easy to remove:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the bottom row of templates sticks out farther than the top row, I chiseled out the dividers ~1" from the back and glued in a stop.
> 
> I was originally going to mount this rig on drawer slides, but it occurred to me that it only needs to slide maybe 6" or so out the front of the cabinet to find the template you want, so decided to let this slide on it's own at the bottom of the space, it's only about 1" thick total. I am planning to add 2 bit storage drawers above this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it's all said and done, I would be willing to bet that I would have spent less time searching for the right template the old way, than I did spending on building this, but what the hey, I love the gadgets…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Steve - I figured that would spark some response. If I was in business, this may not pass the cost/benefit analysis!

Thanks for the comments.

Jeff


----------



## bigike

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - Template Holder*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before getting into the specifics, I should say, this won't mean much unless you own an Incra positioner, but if you don't own one, they really do a great job in repeatable cuts, unmatched actually. In the past 2 years, I have purchased 3 different Incra setups off of Craigslist for less than 50 cents on the dollar. I gave one of them to my Dad, and still have the Ultra which I'm using on this router table, along with the TS LS (table saw linear screw) on my table saw.
> 
> I also have an original Incra jig (which I purchased new) on a smaller homemade table that makes a great second table setup. Functionally the original jig (which is all plastic) has the same precision, but just less travel, and these can be purchased new with a fence for around $100 or so.
> 
> So if you are interested in an Incra, keep your eyes peeled, they are out there and worth the money!
> 
> Anyways, back to topic, there are 50 templates that come with the larger Incra positioners, and are always a pain to find the one you are looking for, here is a photo of the raw templates:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was inspired by these 3 sites for this project:
> 
> one
> 
> two
> 
> three
> 
> My design is mostly inspired by number 3, as a matter of fact he worked out the Incra settings in CAD and posted a roadmap that is spot on for the cuts. In addition, his design was based on using a straight cutter as opposed to a dovetail bit which I liked.
> 
> The biggest difference is I cut slots on the top and bottom of the same board, which reduces the overall thickness of the finished piece. He used 2 boards and a somewhat elaborate approach to making the thin templates stand up from the base so you can grab them.
> 
> Instead of one wide board I used 2 narrower boards for 2 reasons, I had some scraps about the right size and it is half as many fence changes to make the same result.
> 
> I started with 2 pieces of ~5/8" plywood 9" wide and followed his CAD settings to cut 13 slots on both sides of each board. They were later ripped to a final overall dimension of 17-5/8". These pieces are sandwiched between plexiglas:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To simplify the removal of the templates I designed the top row so the template sits just proud of the front edge of the plywood, this allows your finger to easily lift it up and remove. The bottom row has a narrow strip of plexi glued in front of the slots so the templates can't lay flat on the bottom, again, easy to remove:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the bottom row of templates sticks out farther than the top row, I chiseled out the dividers ~1" from the back and glued in a stop.
> 
> I was originally going to mount this rig on drawer slides, but it occurred to me that it only needs to slide maybe 6" or so out the front of the cabinet to find the template you want, so decided to let this slide on it's own at the bottom of the space, it's only about 1" thick total. I am planning to add 2 bit storage drawers above this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it's all said and done, I would be willing to bet that I would have spent less time searching for the right template the old way, than I did spending on building this, but what the hey, I love the gadgets…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


very nice work, i've been wondering what to do with those.


----------



## dusty2

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - Template Holder*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before getting into the specifics, I should say, this won't mean much unless you own an Incra positioner, but if you don't own one, they really do a great job in repeatable cuts, unmatched actually. In the past 2 years, I have purchased 3 different Incra setups off of Craigslist for less than 50 cents on the dollar. I gave one of them to my Dad, and still have the Ultra which I'm using on this router table, along with the TS LS (table saw linear screw) on my table saw.
> 
> I also have an original Incra jig (which I purchased new) on a smaller homemade table that makes a great second table setup. Functionally the original jig (which is all plastic) has the same precision, but just less travel, and these can be purchased new with a fence for around $100 or so.
> 
> So if you are interested in an Incra, keep your eyes peeled, they are out there and worth the money!
> 
> Anyways, back to topic, there are 50 templates that come with the larger Incra positioners, and are always a pain to find the one you are looking for, here is a photo of the raw templates:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was inspired by these 3 sites for this project:
> 
> one
> 
> two
> 
> three
> 
> My design is mostly inspired by number 3, as a matter of fact he worked out the Incra settings in CAD and posted a roadmap that is spot on for the cuts. In addition, his design was based on using a straight cutter as opposed to a dovetail bit which I liked.
> 
> The biggest difference is I cut slots on the top and bottom of the same board, which reduces the overall thickness of the finished piece. He used 2 boards and a somewhat elaborate approach to making the thin templates stand up from the base so you can grab them.
> 
> Instead of one wide board I used 2 narrower boards for 2 reasons, I had some scraps about the right size and it is half as many fence changes to make the same result.
> 
> I started with 2 pieces of ~5/8" plywood 9" wide and followed his CAD settings to cut 13 slots on both sides of each board. They were later ripped to a final overall dimension of 17-5/8". These pieces are sandwiched between plexiglas:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To simplify the removal of the templates I designed the top row so the template sits just proud of the front edge of the plywood, this allows your finger to easily lift it up and remove. The bottom row has a narrow strip of plexi glued in front of the slots so the templates can't lay flat on the bottom, again, easy to remove:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the bottom row of templates sticks out farther than the top row, I chiseled out the dividers ~1" from the back and glued in a stop.
> 
> I was originally going to mount this rig on drawer slides, but it occurred to me that it only needs to slide maybe 6" or so out the front of the cabinet to find the template you want, so decided to let this slide on it's own at the bottom of the space, it's only about 1" thick total. I am planning to add 2 bit storage drawers above this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it's all said and done, I would be willing to bet that I would have spent less time searching for the right template the old way, than I did spending on building this, but what the hey, I love the gadgets…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Why did I not think of something like that. I have dealt with that bundle of templates for years now. Really great. Thank you for the inspiration and for posting your ideas.


----------



## RogerBean

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - Template Holder*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before getting into the specifics, I should say, this won't mean much unless you own an Incra positioner, but if you don't own one, they really do a great job in repeatable cuts, unmatched actually. In the past 2 years, I have purchased 3 different Incra setups off of Craigslist for less than 50 cents on the dollar. I gave one of them to my Dad, and still have the Ultra which I'm using on this router table, along with the TS LS (table saw linear screw) on my table saw.
> 
> I also have an original Incra jig (which I purchased new) on a smaller homemade table that makes a great second table setup. Functionally the original jig (which is all plastic) has the same precision, but just less travel, and these can be purchased new with a fence for around $100 or so.
> 
> So if you are interested in an Incra, keep your eyes peeled, they are out there and worth the money!
> 
> Anyways, back to topic, there are 50 templates that come with the larger Incra positioners, and are always a pain to find the one you are looking for, here is a photo of the raw templates:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was inspired by these 3 sites for this project:
> 
> one
> 
> two
> 
> three
> 
> My design is mostly inspired by number 3, as a matter of fact he worked out the Incra settings in CAD and posted a roadmap that is spot on for the cuts. In addition, his design was based on using a straight cutter as opposed to a dovetail bit which I liked.
> 
> The biggest difference is I cut slots on the top and bottom of the same board, which reduces the overall thickness of the finished piece. He used 2 boards and a somewhat elaborate approach to making the thin templates stand up from the base so you can grab them.
> 
> Instead of one wide board I used 2 narrower boards for 2 reasons, I had some scraps about the right size and it is half as many fence changes to make the same result.
> 
> I started with 2 pieces of ~5/8" plywood 9" wide and followed his CAD settings to cut 13 slots on both sides of each board. They were later ripped to a final overall dimension of 17-5/8". These pieces are sandwiched between plexiglas:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To simplify the removal of the templates I designed the top row so the template sits just proud of the front edge of the plywood, this allows your finger to easily lift it up and remove. The bottom row has a narrow strip of plexi glued in front of the slots so the templates can't lay flat on the bottom, again, easy to remove:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the bottom row of templates sticks out farther than the top row, I chiseled out the dividers ~1" from the back and glued in a stop.
> 
> I was originally going to mount this rig on drawer slides, but it occurred to me that it only needs to slide maybe 6" or so out the front of the cabinet to find the template you want, so decided to let this slide on it's own at the bottom of the space, it's only about 1" thick total. I am planning to add 2 bit storage drawers above this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it's all said and done, I would be willing to bet that I would have spent less time searching for the right template the old way, than I did spending on building this, but what the hey, I love the gadgets…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff,
I see your point. Once you get using the Incra stuff it becomes a little like using a Mac, you find yourself becoming a zealot. I have positioners, lifts, tracks, stops, and miter gages on every piece of equipment I own. I find it hard to imagine going back to anything else. Does that make us "Incra fanbois"? 
Roger


----------



## ratchet

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - Template Holder*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before getting into the specifics, I should say, this won't mean much unless you own an Incra positioner, but if you don't own one, they really do a great job in repeatable cuts, unmatched actually. In the past 2 years, I have purchased 3 different Incra setups off of Craigslist for less than 50 cents on the dollar. I gave one of them to my Dad, and still have the Ultra which I'm using on this router table, along with the TS LS (table saw linear screw) on my table saw.
> 
> I also have an original Incra jig (which I purchased new) on a smaller homemade table that makes a great second table setup. Functionally the original jig (which is all plastic) has the same precision, but just less travel, and these can be purchased new with a fence for around $100 or so.
> 
> So if you are interested in an Incra, keep your eyes peeled, they are out there and worth the money!
> 
> Anyways, back to topic, there are 50 templates that come with the larger Incra positioners, and are always a pain to find the one you are looking for, here is a photo of the raw templates:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was inspired by these 3 sites for this project:
> 
> one
> 
> two
> 
> three
> 
> My design is mostly inspired by number 3, as a matter of fact he worked out the Incra settings in CAD and posted a roadmap that is spot on for the cuts. In addition, his design was based on using a straight cutter as opposed to a dovetail bit which I liked.
> 
> The biggest difference is I cut slots on the top and bottom of the same board, which reduces the overall thickness of the finished piece. He used 2 boards and a somewhat elaborate approach to making the thin templates stand up from the base so you can grab them.
> 
> Instead of one wide board I used 2 narrower boards for 2 reasons, I had some scraps about the right size and it is half as many fence changes to make the same result.
> 
> I started with 2 pieces of ~5/8" plywood 9" wide and followed his CAD settings to cut 13 slots on both sides of each board. They were later ripped to a final overall dimension of 17-5/8". These pieces are sandwiched between plexiglas:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To simplify the removal of the templates I designed the top row so the template sits just proud of the front edge of the plywood, this allows your finger to easily lift it up and remove. The bottom row has a narrow strip of plexi glued in front of the slots so the templates can't lay flat on the bottom, again, easy to remove:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the bottom row of templates sticks out farther than the top row, I chiseled out the dividers ~1" from the back and glued in a stop.
> 
> I was originally going to mount this rig on drawer slides, but it occurred to me that it only needs to slide maybe 6" or so out the front of the cabinet to find the template you want, so decided to let this slide on it's own at the bottom of the space, it's only about 1" thick total. I am planning to add 2 bit storage drawers above this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it's all said and done, I would be willing to bet that I would have spent less time searching for the right template the old way, than I did spending on building this, but what the hey, I love the gadgets…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Totally sweet solution to a problem most of us incra users have. Performing a cost benefits analysis here is not an effective measure of the pleasure, saatisfaction, and ease of use of template selection moving forward. I say well done and thanks for sharing your work with us. I still am green with envy over your techno cool router table.


----------



## JL7

*Incra Router Table - Bit Storage*

Added a bit shelf and a drawer to the table, both out of Maple. The shelf is 1" thick laminated from narrow strips basically cutting board style with breadboard ends.














































I used a little spray adhesive and some graph paper as a drilling guide - despite that I did manage to drill 2 holes off location…......










The template holder just sits on the bottom and you can slide it out a bit to grab what you need.










The drawer box is painted MDF



















Under the dust box are three 1/4-20 bolts for wrapping up the cord, which is annoying when it's colied up in the dust box…I am seriously considering just cutting the cord shorter, making a pigtail, since the router shouldn't be coming out of the table,



















For now, the bottom part will stay open - don't really need more drawers and such, don't really like building stuff without a purpose. Might use the space for lumber storage or maybe store some lesser used bench tools…........

So I think I will call it good for now….thanks for all the comments on the table - it was a fun project.

Jeff


----------



## Marc5

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - Bit Storage*
> 
> Added a bit shelf and a drawer to the table, both out of Maple. The shelf is 1" thick laminated from narrow strips basically cutting board style with breadboard ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a little spray adhesive and some graph paper as a drilling guide - despite that I did manage to drill 2 holes off location…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The template holder just sits on the bottom and you can slide it out a bit to grab what you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer box is painted MDF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Under the dust box are three 1/4-20 bolts for wrapping up the cord, which is annoying when it's colied up in the dust box…I am seriously considering just cutting the cord shorter, making a pigtail, since the router shouldn't be coming out of the table,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For now, the bottom part will stay open - don't really need more drawers and such, don't really like building stuff without a purpose. Might use the space for lumber storage or maybe store some lesser used bench tools…........
> 
> So I think I will call it good for now….thanks for all the comments on the table - it was a fun project.
> 
> Jeff


You certainly thought this out. Nicely done!

I am getting ready to build some additional storage under my saw with a router plate extension, upgrade to a lift in the next month or so. If you don't mind I would like to borrow your design especially for the Incra template ribbons.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - Bit Storage*
> 
> Added a bit shelf and a drawer to the table, both out of Maple. The shelf is 1" thick laminated from narrow strips basically cutting board style with breadboard ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a little spray adhesive and some graph paper as a drilling guide - despite that I did manage to drill 2 holes off location…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The template holder just sits on the bottom and you can slide it out a bit to grab what you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer box is painted MDF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Under the dust box are three 1/4-20 bolts for wrapping up the cord, which is annoying when it's colied up in the dust box…I am seriously considering just cutting the cord shorter, making a pigtail, since the router shouldn't be coming out of the table,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For now, the bottom part will stay open - don't really need more drawers and such, don't really like building stuff without a purpose. Might use the space for lumber storage or maybe store some lesser used bench tools…........
> 
> So I think I will call it good for now….thanks for all the comments on the table - it was a fun project.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Marc - The template holder isn't actually my idea - details are here Check the links in that post - some really good info out there on the topic.

Good luck on your project.

Jeff


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - Bit Storage*
> 
> Added a bit shelf and a drawer to the table, both out of Maple. The shelf is 1" thick laminated from narrow strips basically cutting board style with breadboard ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a little spray adhesive and some graph paper as a drilling guide - despite that I did manage to drill 2 holes off location…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The template holder just sits on the bottom and you can slide it out a bit to grab what you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer box is painted MDF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Under the dust box are three 1/4-20 bolts for wrapping up the cord, which is annoying when it's colied up in the dust box…I am seriously considering just cutting the cord shorter, making a pigtail, since the router shouldn't be coming out of the table,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For now, the bottom part will stay open - don't really need more drawers and such, don't really like building stuff without a purpose. Might use the space for lumber storage or maybe store some lesser used bench tools…........
> 
> So I think I will call it good for now….thanks for all the comments on the table - it was a fun project.
> 
> Jeff


That is a top notch machine you have there Jeff.
Count me as jealous.
Someday I will grow up and have a router table.

Very nice job,
Steve


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - Bit Storage*
> 
> Added a bit shelf and a drawer to the table, both out of Maple. The shelf is 1" thick laminated from narrow strips basically cutting board style with breadboard ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a little spray adhesive and some graph paper as a drilling guide - despite that I did manage to drill 2 holes off location…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The template holder just sits on the bottom and you can slide it out a bit to grab what you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer box is painted MDF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Under the dust box are three 1/4-20 bolts for wrapping up the cord, which is annoying when it's colied up in the dust box…I am seriously considering just cutting the cord shorter, making a pigtail, since the router shouldn't be coming out of the table,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For now, the bottom part will stay open - don't really need more drawers and such, don't really like building stuff without a purpose. Might use the space for lumber storage or maybe store some lesser used bench tools…........
> 
> So I think I will call it good for now….thanks for all the comments on the table - it was a fun project.
> 
> Jeff


I still love this table

>getting better all the time, yeah


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Incra Router Table - Bit Storage*
> 
> Added a bit shelf and a drawer to the table, both out of Maple. The shelf is 1" thick laminated from narrow strips basically cutting board style with breadboard ends.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a little spray adhesive and some graph paper as a drilling guide - despite that I did manage to drill 2 holes off location…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The template holder just sits on the bottom and you can slide it out a bit to grab what you need.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The drawer box is painted MDF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Under the dust box are three 1/4-20 bolts for wrapping up the cord, which is annoying when it's colied up in the dust box…I am seriously considering just cutting the cord shorter, making a pigtail, since the router shouldn't be coming out of the table,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For now, the bottom part will stay open - don't really need more drawers and such, don't really like building stuff without a purpose. Might use the space for lumber storage or maybe store some lesser used bench tools…........
> 
> So I think I will call it good for now….thanks for all the comments on the table - it was a fun project.
> 
> Jeff


Fernando - you are a funny man!


----------



## JL7

*Major Drum Sander Improvement!*

Today was a good day for progress…...I have a semi-homemade low budget drum sander setup in the basement shop but the dust collection sucked…..or more correctly, didn't suck…..

You can see the original setup in these 2 earlier posts:

one
two

Out with the old - in with the new:










The new version has a 4" dust port hooked up to the dust collector - I still need to do some plumbing in the ceiling to reduce the amount of flex hose, but that's not a major issue.

The build started (as usual) with no solid plans - just a squared up 2×4 with slots cut into the ends to wedge between the cast aluminum end supports of the sander and then rip bevels on both sides. I didn't photograph very well, but those vertical supports have a web of cast material that the 2×4 locks into:



















I was really struggling to figure out how to put the second angle into the design so it doesn't just end up being a pyramid - then it ocurred to me that the beveled cutoffs from the 2×4 would be the exact angle needed for the second angle:



















To get the clearance necessary for the 4 " port, I cut an arch in the 2×4 to get max air flow - also shows rig with access door open:



















With the door closed:










I would have preferred to have the dust port on the in-feed side, but after some debate, it went on the out-feed side because this allows cleaning the drum without shutting off the rig and the dust collection will pick up most of the debris. Paper changing is the same as the stock shroud.

There are no mechanical fasteners, glue or otherwise holding the shroud to the drum sander.

Initial testing indicates a 1000% improvement! I find myself using the drum sander almost everyday so this was an essential improvement.

I should add that with the sled design I have, flatting twisted (oversized) stock is a huge bonus for this setup….... I have less than $100 invested….gotta like that.

Got a new camera recently - so here's the bonus panorama shot of the shop….........










*UPDATE*

Re-routed the dust hose - minimum length of flex hose:










Thanks for looking and appreciate your comments.

Jeff


----------



## Dennisgrosen

JL7 said:


> *Major Drum Sander Improvement!*
> 
> Today was a good day for progress…...I have a semi-homemade low budget drum sander setup in the basement shop but the dust collection sucked…..or more correctly, didn't suck…..
> 
> You can see the original setup in these 2 earlier posts:
> 
> one
> two
> 
> Out with the old - in with the new:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new version has a 4" dust port hooked up to the dust collector - I still need to do some plumbing in the ceiling to reduce the amount of flex hose, but that's not a major issue.
> 
> The build started (as usual) with no solid plans - just a squared up 2×4 with slots cut into the ends to wedge between the cast aluminum end supports of the sander and then rip bevels on both sides. I didn't photograph very well, but those vertical supports have a web of cast material that the 2×4 locks into:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really struggling to figure out how to put the second angle into the design so it doesn't just end up being a pyramid - then it ocurred to me that the beveled cutoffs from the 2×4 would be the exact angle needed for the second angle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the clearance necessary for the 4 " port, I cut an arch in the 2×4 to get max air flow - also shows rig with access door open:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the door closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have preferred to have the dust port on the in-feed side, but after some debate, it went on the out-feed side because this allows cleaning the drum without shutting off the rig and the dust collection will pick up most of the debris. Paper changing is the same as the stock shroud.
> 
> There are no mechanical fasteners, glue or otherwise holding the shroud to the drum sander.
> 
> Initial testing indicates a 1000% improvement! I find myself using the drum sander almost everyday so this was an essential improvement.
> 
> I should add that with the sled design I have, flatting twisted (oversized) stock is a huge bonus for this setup….... I have less than $100 invested….gotta like that.
> 
> Got a new camera recently - so here's the bonus panorama shot of the shop….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> Re-routed the dust hose - minimum length of flex hose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking and appreciate your comments.
> 
> Jeff


great you have figured out to improve the dustcolection so much Congrat´s 
and congrat´s with your new camera  nice shop you have there

take care
Dennis


----------



## BritBoxmaker

JL7 said:


> *Major Drum Sander Improvement!*
> 
> Today was a good day for progress…...I have a semi-homemade low budget drum sander setup in the basement shop but the dust collection sucked…..or more correctly, didn't suck…..
> 
> You can see the original setup in these 2 earlier posts:
> 
> one
> two
> 
> Out with the old - in with the new:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new version has a 4" dust port hooked up to the dust collector - I still need to do some plumbing in the ceiling to reduce the amount of flex hose, but that's not a major issue.
> 
> The build started (as usual) with no solid plans - just a squared up 2×4 with slots cut into the ends to wedge between the cast aluminum end supports of the sander and then rip bevels on both sides. I didn't photograph very well, but those vertical supports have a web of cast material that the 2×4 locks into:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really struggling to figure out how to put the second angle into the design so it doesn't just end up being a pyramid - then it ocurred to me that the beveled cutoffs from the 2×4 would be the exact angle needed for the second angle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the clearance necessary for the 4 " port, I cut an arch in the 2×4 to get max air flow - also shows rig with access door open:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the door closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have preferred to have the dust port on the in-feed side, but after some debate, it went on the out-feed side because this allows cleaning the drum without shutting off the rig and the dust collection will pick up most of the debris. Paper changing is the same as the stock shroud.
> 
> There are no mechanical fasteners, glue or otherwise holding the shroud to the drum sander.
> 
> Initial testing indicates a 1000% improvement! I find myself using the drum sander almost everyday so this was an essential improvement.
> 
> I should add that with the sled design I have, flatting twisted (oversized) stock is a huge bonus for this setup….... I have less than $100 invested….gotta like that.
> 
> Got a new camera recently - so here's the bonus panorama shot of the shop….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> Re-routed the dust hose - minimum length of flex hose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking and appreciate your comments.
> 
> Jeff


Thanks for this. I've been looking to improve mine for ages, dust collection that is. Good post.


----------



## jeremyslat

JL7 said:


> *Major Drum Sander Improvement!*
> 
> Today was a good day for progress…...I have a semi-homemade low budget drum sander setup in the basement shop but the dust collection sucked…..or more correctly, didn't suck…..
> 
> You can see the original setup in these 2 earlier posts:
> 
> one
> two
> 
> Out with the old - in with the new:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new version has a 4" dust port hooked up to the dust collector - I still need to do some plumbing in the ceiling to reduce the amount of flex hose, but that's not a major issue.
> 
> The build started (as usual) with no solid plans - just a squared up 2×4 with slots cut into the ends to wedge between the cast aluminum end supports of the sander and then rip bevels on both sides. I didn't photograph very well, but those vertical supports have a web of cast material that the 2×4 locks into:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really struggling to figure out how to put the second angle into the design so it doesn't just end up being a pyramid - then it ocurred to me that the beveled cutoffs from the 2×4 would be the exact angle needed for the second angle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the clearance necessary for the 4 " port, I cut an arch in the 2×4 to get max air flow - also shows rig with access door open:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the door closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have preferred to have the dust port on the in-feed side, but after some debate, it went on the out-feed side because this allows cleaning the drum without shutting off the rig and the dust collection will pick up most of the debris. Paper changing is the same as the stock shroud.
> 
> There are no mechanical fasteners, glue or otherwise holding the shroud to the drum sander.
> 
> Initial testing indicates a 1000% improvement! I find myself using the drum sander almost everyday so this was an essential improvement.
> 
> I should add that with the sled design I have, flatting twisted (oversized) stock is a huge bonus for this setup….... I have less than $100 invested….gotta like that.
> 
> Got a new camera recently - so here's the bonus panorama shot of the shop….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> Re-routed the dust hose - minimum length of flex hose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking and appreciate your comments.
> 
> Jeff


Great job fellow woodworker. We thank you for the clear pictures that mean more than a thousand words. Keep up the good work.


----------



## rowdy

JL7 said:


> *Major Drum Sander Improvement!*
> 
> Today was a good day for progress…...I have a semi-homemade low budget drum sander setup in the basement shop but the dust collection sucked…..or more correctly, didn't suck…..
> 
> You can see the original setup in these 2 earlier posts:
> 
> one
> two
> 
> Out with the old - in with the new:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new version has a 4" dust port hooked up to the dust collector - I still need to do some plumbing in the ceiling to reduce the amount of flex hose, but that's not a major issue.
> 
> The build started (as usual) with no solid plans - just a squared up 2×4 with slots cut into the ends to wedge between the cast aluminum end supports of the sander and then rip bevels on both sides. I didn't photograph very well, but those vertical supports have a web of cast material that the 2×4 locks into:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really struggling to figure out how to put the second angle into the design so it doesn't just end up being a pyramid - then it ocurred to me that the beveled cutoffs from the 2×4 would be the exact angle needed for the second angle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the clearance necessary for the 4 " port, I cut an arch in the 2×4 to get max air flow - also shows rig with access door open:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the door closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have preferred to have the dust port on the in-feed side, but after some debate, it went on the out-feed side because this allows cleaning the drum without shutting off the rig and the dust collection will pick up most of the debris. Paper changing is the same as the stock shroud.
> 
> There are no mechanical fasteners, glue or otherwise holding the shroud to the drum sander.
> 
> Initial testing indicates a 1000% improvement! I find myself using the drum sander almost everyday so this was an essential improvement.
> 
> I should add that with the sled design I have, flatting twisted (oversized) stock is a huge bonus for this setup….... I have less than $100 invested….gotta like that.
> 
> Got a new camera recently - so here's the bonus panorama shot of the shop….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> Re-routed the dust hose - minimum length of flex hose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking and appreciate your comments.
> 
> Jeff


Nice looking shop. Good place to spend the winter!


----------



## bues0022

JL7 said:


> *Major Drum Sander Improvement!*
> 
> Today was a good day for progress…...I have a semi-homemade low budget drum sander setup in the basement shop but the dust collection sucked…..or more correctly, didn't suck…..
> 
> You can see the original setup in these 2 earlier posts:
> 
> one
> two
> 
> Out with the old - in with the new:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new version has a 4" dust port hooked up to the dust collector - I still need to do some plumbing in the ceiling to reduce the amount of flex hose, but that's not a major issue.
> 
> The build started (as usual) with no solid plans - just a squared up 2×4 with slots cut into the ends to wedge between the cast aluminum end supports of the sander and then rip bevels on both sides. I didn't photograph very well, but those vertical supports have a web of cast material that the 2×4 locks into:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really struggling to figure out how to put the second angle into the design so it doesn't just end up being a pyramid - then it ocurred to me that the beveled cutoffs from the 2×4 would be the exact angle needed for the second angle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the clearance necessary for the 4 " port, I cut an arch in the 2×4 to get max air flow - also shows rig with access door open:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the door closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have preferred to have the dust port on the in-feed side, but after some debate, it went on the out-feed side because this allows cleaning the drum without shutting off the rig and the dust collection will pick up most of the debris. Paper changing is the same as the stock shroud.
> 
> There are no mechanical fasteners, glue or otherwise holding the shroud to the drum sander.
> 
> Initial testing indicates a 1000% improvement! I find myself using the drum sander almost everyday so this was an essential improvement.
> 
> I should add that with the sled design I have, flatting twisted (oversized) stock is a huge bonus for this setup….... I have less than $100 invested….gotta like that.
> 
> Got a new camera recently - so here's the bonus panorama shot of the shop….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> Re-routed the dust hose - minimum length of flex hose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking and appreciate your comments.
> 
> Jeff


That looks like it should work much better than the last time I was over! Awesome idea.


----------



## kbree

JL7 said:


> *Major Drum Sander Improvement!*
> 
> Today was a good day for progress…...I have a semi-homemade low budget drum sander setup in the basement shop but the dust collection sucked…..or more correctly, didn't suck…..
> 
> You can see the original setup in these 2 earlier posts:
> 
> one
> two
> 
> Out with the old - in with the new:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new version has a 4" dust port hooked up to the dust collector - I still need to do some plumbing in the ceiling to reduce the amount of flex hose, but that's not a major issue.
> 
> The build started (as usual) with no solid plans - just a squared up 2×4 with slots cut into the ends to wedge between the cast aluminum end supports of the sander and then rip bevels on both sides. I didn't photograph very well, but those vertical supports have a web of cast material that the 2×4 locks into:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really struggling to figure out how to put the second angle into the design so it doesn't just end up being a pyramid - then it ocurred to me that the beveled cutoffs from the 2×4 would be the exact angle needed for the second angle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the clearance necessary for the 4 " port, I cut an arch in the 2×4 to get max air flow - also shows rig with access door open:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the door closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have preferred to have the dust port on the in-feed side, but after some debate, it went on the out-feed side because this allows cleaning the drum without shutting off the rig and the dust collection will pick up most of the debris. Paper changing is the same as the stock shroud.
> 
> There are no mechanical fasteners, glue or otherwise holding the shroud to the drum sander.
> 
> Initial testing indicates a 1000% improvement! I find myself using the drum sander almost everyday so this was an essential improvement.
> 
> I should add that with the sled design I have, flatting twisted (oversized) stock is a huge bonus for this setup….... I have less than $100 invested….gotta like that.
> 
> Got a new camera recently - so here's the bonus panorama shot of the shop….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> Re-routed the dust hose - minimum length of flex hose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking and appreciate your comments.
> 
> Jeff


I just got a performax s/t with a ras but the guy I got it from didn't have the pulley. Do you know the size and where I might find parts? 
Thank you any help would be greatly appreciated.
Kevin


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Major Drum Sander Improvement!*
> 
> Today was a good day for progress…...I have a semi-homemade low budget drum sander setup in the basement shop but the dust collection sucked…..or more correctly, didn't suck…..
> 
> You can see the original setup in these 2 earlier posts:
> 
> one
> two
> 
> Out with the old - in with the new:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new version has a 4" dust port hooked up to the dust collector - I still need to do some plumbing in the ceiling to reduce the amount of flex hose, but that's not a major issue.
> 
> The build started (as usual) with no solid plans - just a squared up 2×4 with slots cut into the ends to wedge between the cast aluminum end supports of the sander and then rip bevels on both sides. I didn't photograph very well, but those vertical supports have a web of cast material that the 2×4 locks into:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really struggling to figure out how to put the second angle into the design so it doesn't just end up being a pyramid - then it ocurred to me that the beveled cutoffs from the 2×4 would be the exact angle needed for the second angle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the clearance necessary for the 4 " port, I cut an arch in the 2×4 to get max air flow - also shows rig with access door open:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the door closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have preferred to have the dust port on the in-feed side, but after some debate, it went on the out-feed side because this allows cleaning the drum without shutting off the rig and the dust collection will pick up most of the debris. Paper changing is the same as the stock shroud.
> 
> There are no mechanical fasteners, glue or otherwise holding the shroud to the drum sander.
> 
> Initial testing indicates a 1000% improvement! I find myself using the drum sander almost everyday so this was an essential improvement.
> 
> I should add that with the sled design I have, flatting twisted (oversized) stock is a huge bonus for this setup….... I have less than $100 invested….gotta like that.
> 
> Got a new camera recently - so here's the bonus panorama shot of the shop….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> Re-routed the dust hose - minimum length of flex hose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking and appreciate your comments.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Kevin - the pulley that came with the sander is 5" and I used a 2" (I think) on the motor. I don't think the pulleys should be too hard to track down, Graingers will have them if all else fails. I haven't sourced any parts for it so can't help much there. I use mine a lot so hope you get the same mileage…..Good Luck!


----------



## ScottySchrimpf

JL7 said:


> *Major Drum Sander Improvement!*
> 
> Today was a good day for progress…...I have a semi-homemade low budget drum sander setup in the basement shop but the dust collection sucked…..or more correctly, didn't suck…..
> 
> You can see the original setup in these 2 earlier posts:
> 
> one
> two
> 
> Out with the old - in with the new:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new version has a 4" dust port hooked up to the dust collector - I still need to do some plumbing in the ceiling to reduce the amount of flex hose, but that's not a major issue.
> 
> The build started (as usual) with no solid plans - just a squared up 2×4 with slots cut into the ends to wedge between the cast aluminum end supports of the sander and then rip bevels on both sides. I didn't photograph very well, but those vertical supports have a web of cast material that the 2×4 locks into:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really struggling to figure out how to put the second angle into the design so it doesn't just end up being a pyramid - then it ocurred to me that the beveled cutoffs from the 2×4 would be the exact angle needed for the second angle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the clearance necessary for the 4 " port, I cut an arch in the 2×4 to get max air flow - also shows rig with access door open:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the door closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have preferred to have the dust port on the in-feed side, but after some debate, it went on the out-feed side because this allows cleaning the drum without shutting off the rig and the dust collection will pick up most of the debris. Paper changing is the same as the stock shroud.
> 
> There are no mechanical fasteners, glue or otherwise holding the shroud to the drum sander.
> 
> Initial testing indicates a 1000% improvement! I find myself using the drum sander almost everyday so this was an essential improvement.
> 
> I should add that with the sled design I have, flatting twisted (oversized) stock is a huge bonus for this setup….... I have less than $100 invested….gotta like that.
> 
> Got a new camera recently - so here's the bonus panorama shot of the shop….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> Re-routed the dust hose - minimum length of flex hose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking and appreciate your comments.
> 
> Jeff


I recently bought a Performax S/T and Performax conveyer and am looking forward to using it. After reading the manual, I am figuring I have enough lift on my RAS for about 2" stock… Not happy now! Looking at your photos, you seem to have an abundance of room for thick stock…. What RAS do you have? Did you modify it at all? Suggestions? I have Craftsman 113.29411 - Scott


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Major Drum Sander Improvement!*
> 
> Today was a good day for progress…...I have a semi-homemade low budget drum sander setup in the basement shop but the dust collection sucked…..or more correctly, didn't suck…..
> 
> You can see the original setup in these 2 earlier posts:
> 
> one
> two
> 
> Out with the old - in with the new:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new version has a 4" dust port hooked up to the dust collector - I still need to do some plumbing in the ceiling to reduce the amount of flex hose, but that's not a major issue.
> 
> The build started (as usual) with no solid plans - just a squared up 2×4 with slots cut into the ends to wedge between the cast aluminum end supports of the sander and then rip bevels on both sides. I didn't photograph very well, but those vertical supports have a web of cast material that the 2×4 locks into:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really struggling to figure out how to put the second angle into the design so it doesn't just end up being a pyramid - then it ocurred to me that the beveled cutoffs from the 2×4 would be the exact angle needed for the second angle:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get the clearance necessary for the 4 " port, I cut an arch in the 2×4 to get max air flow - also shows rig with access door open:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the door closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have preferred to have the dust port on the in-feed side, but after some debate, it went on the out-feed side because this allows cleaning the drum without shutting off the rig and the dust collection will pick up most of the debris. Paper changing is the same as the stock shroud.
> 
> There are no mechanical fasteners, glue or otherwise holding the shroud to the drum sander.
> 
> Initial testing indicates a 1000% improvement! I find myself using the drum sander almost everyday so this was an essential improvement.
> 
> I should add that with the sled design I have, flatting twisted (oversized) stock is a huge bonus for this setup….... I have less than $100 invested….gotta like that.
> 
> Got a new camera recently - so here's the bonus panorama shot of the shop….........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> Re-routed the dust hose - minimum length of flex hose:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking and appreciate your comments.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Scotty, I have a 113 saw as well. The height is limited so I removed the table from the RAS so I could get the max height. The table is still on in these photos, but I've modified it since then, and the blog series is here:

http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/series/4885


----------



## JL7

*Shop Closet - Redux*

Well this has been on the to do list for awhile, not an epic project, but just an effort to get the odd tools and fastners settled into one area. This part of the shop used to be a family room and it had this odd closet (on an angled wall).

More work to be done here, but the basic shape is in place: broke up the the 3 piece tool cabinet, removed casters and made two side by side stacks. Covered with dumpster bound tabletop. Ripped oak strips for bin holders.




























And then Charlie the inspector showed up…...










Thanks for looking.

Jeff


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Shop Closet - Redux*
> 
> Well this has been on the to do list for awhile, not an epic project, but just an effort to get the odd tools and fastners settled into one area. This part of the shop used to be a family room and it had this odd closet (on an angled wall).
> 
> More work to be done here, but the basic shape is in place: broke up the the 3 piece tool cabinet, removed casters and made two side by side stacks. Covered with dumpster bound tabletop. Ripped oak strips for bin holders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then Charlie the inspector showed up…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff, looks tidy enough for me. I´m sure this was an epic project.

I am still on the way of updating the thkness sander´s dust hood .

Take care


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Shop Closet - Redux*
> 
> Well this has been on the to do list for awhile, not an epic project, but just an effort to get the odd tools and fastners settled into one area. This part of the shop used to be a family room and it had this odd closet (on an angled wall).
> 
> More work to be done here, but the basic shape is in place: broke up the the 3 piece tool cabinet, removed casters and made two side by side stacks. Covered with dumpster bound tabletop. Ripped oak strips for bin holders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then Charlie the inspector showed up…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Fernando - NOT an epic project 

Wondering how your router table plans are coming?

Jeff


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Shop Closet - Redux*
> 
> Well this has been on the to do list for awhile, not an epic project, but just an effort to get the odd tools and fastners settled into one area. This part of the shop used to be a family room and it had this odd closet (on an angled wall).
> 
> More work to be done here, but the basic shape is in place: broke up the the 3 piece tool cabinet, removed casters and made two side by side stacks. Covered with dumpster bound tabletop. Ripped oak strips for bin holders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then Charlie the inspector showed up…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


looks great, what happens to charlie if you turn on the down draft?


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Shop Closet - Redux*
> 
> Well this has been on the to do list for awhile, not an epic project, but just an effort to get the odd tools and fastners settled into one area. This part of the shop used to be a family room and it had this odd closet (on an angled wall).
> 
> More work to be done here, but the basic shape is in place: broke up the the 3 piece tool cabinet, removed casters and made two side by side stacks. Covered with dumpster bound tabletop. Ripped oak strips for bin holders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then Charlie the inspector showed up…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Dave - that's a sure way to get the inspector out of the shop…..........


----------



## JL7

*Sanding and Buffing*

Greetings - this is a 3 part installment.

Intro (Part 1): Got this 1hp motor from a work "garage sale" for $5 complete with Jabobs chuck;










I found 2 different grit sanding buffs at a garage sale for $0.50 each - $1.00 invested in 2!










These buffs work great on any irregular surfaces and it's handy to have in the sanding arsonal…

That was the first part….I now have $6 invested in this high powered sanding rig…

Part 2 - I wanted to aquire the Beall Wood Buff system - a way to polish finish without all the hassles. My motor is 3450 rpm and the standard Beall Wood Buff Sytem is the 8" diameter wheels and is rated for 1750 RPM motors and cost $80. Frustrated, I googled Beall Wood Buff and got Klingspor's on the response - they sell a 4" diameter system (from Beall) for $40.

The 4" system will work with the 3450 RPM motor and includes ALL the same essential elements of the 8" system for half the price….......

Click - add to cart.










I made a slight mod to the stock mandrel so I could put it in the chuck instead of mounting it directly to the motor shaft - this way I can quickly switch back to mop sanding mode.

I'm new to this setup so can't make any performance statements yet - but I expect that it will find some good use. Just check the Reviews section of LJ for more info.

Part 3 - I was now on Klingspor website and had the wood buff in the cart…....I'm sure the rest of you do it too, you start clicking around looking for "stuff you need" on the site before you "checkout".

I love the PSA sandpaper - the Woodsmith Show got me hooked on the stuff. I had a couple of rolls of 80 and 120 grit 3M Stickit but I wanted more grits….ordered these:










Good stuff, but at $18 a roll it all adds up…...before checking out - I added the "closeout 5 lb PSA Assortment Pack" to the cart for another $18. The next picture shows what I got for the $18 but it's after I fixed up the sanding board - pictures to follow after










I'm sure this has been done before, but when making boxes and such, it;s nice to sand on a nice flat surface such as the table saw table or the jointer table, using PSA paper. The problem is the paper needs to be removed before you can ue the tool again.

This is a piece of 3/4" MDF with various grits of PSA sandpaper on both sides - This is the rough side - 80, 100, 120 and 150:










And the smooth side - 180, 220 and 320:










I'm in the rubber roll business for more years than I should probably admit so I used a heavyweight roll to get all the snap -crackles and pops out of the paper when laying it down.










I should say - dealing with Klingspor was great - they shipped the same day, the shipping cost was very resonable and everything was delivered correctly….
Again, I'm sure this has all been posted before - and I'm certain I will discover the limitations of these techniques as time goes on…..and I appreciate your input on this…..................

Jeff


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Sanding and Buffing*
> 
> Greetings - this is a 3 part installment.
> 
> Intro (Part 1): Got this 1hp motor from a work "garage sale" for $5 complete with Jabobs chuck;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found 2 different grit sanding buffs at a garage sale for $0.50 each - $1.00 invested in 2!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These buffs work great on any irregular surfaces and it's handy to have in the sanding arsonal…
> 
> That was the first part….I now have $6 invested in this high powered sanding rig…
> 
> Part 2 - I wanted to aquire the Beall Wood Buff system - a way to polish finish without all the hassles. My motor is 3450 rpm and the standard Beall Wood Buff Sytem is the 8" diameter wheels and is rated for 1750 RPM motors and cost $80. Frustrated, I googled Beall Wood Buff and got Klingspor's on the response - they sell a 4" diameter system (from Beall) for $40.
> 
> The 4" system will work with the 3450 RPM motor and includes ALL the same essential elements of the 8" system for half the price….......
> 
> Click - add to cart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a slight mod to the stock mandrel so I could put it in the chuck instead of mounting it directly to the motor shaft - this way I can quickly switch back to mop sanding mode.
> 
> I'm new to this setup so can't make any performance statements yet - but I expect that it will find some good use. Just check the Reviews section of LJ for more info.
> 
> Part 3 - I was now on Klingspor website and had the wood buff in the cart…....I'm sure the rest of you do it too, you start clicking around looking for "stuff you need" on the site before you "checkout".
> 
> I love the PSA sandpaper - the Woodsmith Show got me hooked on the stuff. I had a couple of rolls of 80 and 120 grit 3M Stickit but I wanted more grits….ordered these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good stuff, but at $18 a roll it all adds up…...before checking out - I added the "closeout 5 lb PSA Assortment Pack" to the cart for another $18. The next picture shows what I got for the $18 but it's after I fixed up the sanding board - pictures to follow after
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure this has been done before, but when making boxes and such, it;s nice to sand on a nice flat surface such as the table saw table or the jointer table, using PSA paper. The problem is the paper needs to be removed before you can ue the tool again.
> 
> This is a piece of 3/4" MDF with various grits of PSA sandpaper on both sides - This is the rough side - 80, 100, 120 and 150:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the smooth side - 180, 220 and 320:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the rubber roll business for more years than I should probably admit so I used a heavyweight roll to get all the snap -crackles and pops out of the paper when laying it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should say - dealing with Klingspor was great - they shipped the same day, the shipping cost was very resonable and everything was delivered correctly….
> Again, I'm sure this has all been posted before - and I'm certain I will discover the limitations of these techniques as time goes on…..and I appreciate your input on this…..................
> 
> Jeff


Good for you. I am jealous of your motor sanding station. Looks great.
Nice idea of the flat sanding setup too. That would come in handy.

I feel your pain on throwing things into the shopping basket. My whole shop has been built on poor bookkeeping. It eases this pain somewhat.

Steve


----------



## tediam

JL7 said:


> *Sanding and Buffing*
> 
> Greetings - this is a 3 part installment.
> 
> Intro (Part 1): Got this 1hp motor from a work "garage sale" for $5 complete with Jabobs chuck;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found 2 different grit sanding buffs at a garage sale for $0.50 each - $1.00 invested in 2!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These buffs work great on any irregular surfaces and it's handy to have in the sanding arsonal…
> 
> That was the first part….I now have $6 invested in this high powered sanding rig…
> 
> Part 2 - I wanted to aquire the Beall Wood Buff system - a way to polish finish without all the hassles. My motor is 3450 rpm and the standard Beall Wood Buff Sytem is the 8" diameter wheels and is rated for 1750 RPM motors and cost $80. Frustrated, I googled Beall Wood Buff and got Klingspor's on the response - they sell a 4" diameter system (from Beall) for $40.
> 
> The 4" system will work with the 3450 RPM motor and includes ALL the same essential elements of the 8" system for half the price….......
> 
> Click - add to cart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a slight mod to the stock mandrel so I could put it in the chuck instead of mounting it directly to the motor shaft - this way I can quickly switch back to mop sanding mode.
> 
> I'm new to this setup so can't make any performance statements yet - but I expect that it will find some good use. Just check the Reviews section of LJ for more info.
> 
> Part 3 - I was now on Klingspor website and had the wood buff in the cart…....I'm sure the rest of you do it too, you start clicking around looking for "stuff you need" on the site before you "checkout".
> 
> I love the PSA sandpaper - the Woodsmith Show got me hooked on the stuff. I had a couple of rolls of 80 and 120 grit 3M Stickit but I wanted more grits….ordered these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good stuff, but at $18 a roll it all adds up…...before checking out - I added the "closeout 5 lb PSA Assortment Pack" to the cart for another $18. The next picture shows what I got for the $18 but it's after I fixed up the sanding board - pictures to follow after
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure this has been done before, but when making boxes and such, it;s nice to sand on a nice flat surface such as the table saw table or the jointer table, using PSA paper. The problem is the paper needs to be removed before you can ue the tool again.
> 
> This is a piece of 3/4" MDF with various grits of PSA sandpaper on both sides - This is the rough side - 80, 100, 120 and 150:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the smooth side - 180, 220 and 320:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the rubber roll business for more years than I should probably admit so I used a heavyweight roll to get all the snap -crackles and pops out of the paper when laying it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should say - dealing with Klingspor was great - they shipped the same day, the shipping cost was very resonable and everything was delivered correctly….
> Again, I'm sure this has all been posted before - and I'm certain I will discover the limitations of these techniques as time goes on…..and I appreciate your input on this…..................
> 
> Jeff


Howdy Jeff, Would those rubber rolls be any good for homemade drum sanders? Nice sanding set-up, BTW. Thanks, Ed


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Sanding and Buffing*
> 
> Greetings - this is a 3 part installment.
> 
> Intro (Part 1): Got this 1hp motor from a work "garage sale" for $5 complete with Jabobs chuck;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found 2 different grit sanding buffs at a garage sale for $0.50 each - $1.00 invested in 2!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These buffs work great on any irregular surfaces and it's handy to have in the sanding arsonal…
> 
> That was the first part….I now have $6 invested in this high powered sanding rig…
> 
> Part 2 - I wanted to aquire the Beall Wood Buff system - a way to polish finish without all the hassles. My motor is 3450 rpm and the standard Beall Wood Buff Sytem is the 8" diameter wheels and is rated for 1750 RPM motors and cost $80. Frustrated, I googled Beall Wood Buff and got Klingspor's on the response - they sell a 4" diameter system (from Beall) for $40.
> 
> The 4" system will work with the 3450 RPM motor and includes ALL the same essential elements of the 8" system for half the price….......
> 
> Click - add to cart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a slight mod to the stock mandrel so I could put it in the chuck instead of mounting it directly to the motor shaft - this way I can quickly switch back to mop sanding mode.
> 
> I'm new to this setup so can't make any performance statements yet - but I expect that it will find some good use. Just check the Reviews section of LJ for more info.
> 
> Part 3 - I was now on Klingspor website and had the wood buff in the cart…....I'm sure the rest of you do it too, you start clicking around looking for "stuff you need" on the site before you "checkout".
> 
> I love the PSA sandpaper - the Woodsmith Show got me hooked on the stuff. I had a couple of rolls of 80 and 120 grit 3M Stickit but I wanted more grits….ordered these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good stuff, but at $18 a roll it all adds up…...before checking out - I added the "closeout 5 lb PSA Assortment Pack" to the cart for another $18. The next picture shows what I got for the $18 but it's after I fixed up the sanding board - pictures to follow after
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure this has been done before, but when making boxes and such, it;s nice to sand on a nice flat surface such as the table saw table or the jointer table, using PSA paper. The problem is the paper needs to be removed before you can ue the tool again.
> 
> This is a piece of 3/4" MDF with various grits of PSA sandpaper on both sides - This is the rough side - 80, 100, 120 and 150:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the smooth side - 180, 220 and 320:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the rubber roll business for more years than I should probably admit so I used a heavyweight roll to get all the snap -crackles and pops out of the paper when laying it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should say - dealing with Klingspor was great - they shipped the same day, the shipping cost was very resonable and everything was delivered correctly….
> Again, I'm sure this has all been posted before - and I'm certain I will discover the limitations of these techniques as time goes on…..and I appreciate your input on this…..................
> 
> Jeff


Hey Ed - back in the day - we made some pretty beefy (longer, wider) rolls that would work pretty good. The one in the photo is a bit small in my opinion - maybe 11"-12" wide? I will keep my eyes peeled tho, you are not the first to ask!

Jeff


----------



## tediam

JL7 said:


> *Sanding and Buffing*
> 
> Greetings - this is a 3 part installment.
> 
> Intro (Part 1): Got this 1hp motor from a work "garage sale" for $5 complete with Jabobs chuck;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found 2 different grit sanding buffs at a garage sale for $0.50 each - $1.00 invested in 2!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These buffs work great on any irregular surfaces and it's handy to have in the sanding arsonal…
> 
> That was the first part….I now have $6 invested in this high powered sanding rig…
> 
> Part 2 - I wanted to aquire the Beall Wood Buff system - a way to polish finish without all the hassles. My motor is 3450 rpm and the standard Beall Wood Buff Sytem is the 8" diameter wheels and is rated for 1750 RPM motors and cost $80. Frustrated, I googled Beall Wood Buff and got Klingspor's on the response - they sell a 4" diameter system (from Beall) for $40.
> 
> The 4" system will work with the 3450 RPM motor and includes ALL the same essential elements of the 8" system for half the price….......
> 
> Click - add to cart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made a slight mod to the stock mandrel so I could put it in the chuck instead of mounting it directly to the motor shaft - this way I can quickly switch back to mop sanding mode.
> 
> I'm new to this setup so can't make any performance statements yet - but I expect that it will find some good use. Just check the Reviews section of LJ for more info.
> 
> Part 3 - I was now on Klingspor website and had the wood buff in the cart…....I'm sure the rest of you do it too, you start clicking around looking for "stuff you need" on the site before you "checkout".
> 
> I love the PSA sandpaper - the Woodsmith Show got me hooked on the stuff. I had a couple of rolls of 80 and 120 grit 3M Stickit but I wanted more grits….ordered these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good stuff, but at $18 a roll it all adds up…...before checking out - I added the "closeout 5 lb PSA Assortment Pack" to the cart for another $18. The next picture shows what I got for the $18 but it's after I fixed up the sanding board - pictures to follow after
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure this has been done before, but when making boxes and such, it;s nice to sand on a nice flat surface such as the table saw table or the jointer table, using PSA paper. The problem is the paper needs to be removed before you can ue the tool again.
> 
> This is a piece of 3/4" MDF with various grits of PSA sandpaper on both sides - This is the rough side - 80, 100, 120 and 150:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the smooth side - 180, 220 and 320:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the rubber roll business for more years than I should probably admit so I used a heavyweight roll to get all the snap -crackles and pops out of the paper when laying it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should say - dealing with Klingspor was great - they shipped the same day, the shipping cost was very resonable and everything was delivered correctly….
> Again, I'm sure this has all been posted before - and I'm certain I will discover the limitations of these techniques as time goes on…..and I appreciate your input on this…..................
> 
> Jeff


OK Jeff. Let me know then. 
I wonder if there are any manufactured with rubber rolls. Ever heard of that anyone? What is the common material for the drums? Thanks, Ed


----------



## JL7

*Router Table x4*

I figure if a1Jim can have 30+ routers, I can have four router tables. Starting in reverse order (newest to oldest)...

*#4:*
Just put the finishing touches on this today - basically cost me $20 for the Rockler pheonlic coated pywood (not counting the materials I had laying around):










Of all the homemade tabletops I'm made, this one defineately turned out the best. I used 8-32 threaded inserts to level the plate and ran some dados in the underside of the table so I could bolt it directly to the saw, this photo shows both from the underside of the table, used Maple flooring for the framework and pocket screws, it turned out good and flat:










Here is a shot from the top side - you can the leveling screws:










I decided to make this a right side table on the saw so I don't have the slide the Incra LS TS Base Assembly every time I use the router.



















*#3*

Most of you have seen this one (for more info, check my other posts) this is definately my main goto table with the Woodpeckers top and lift - it is a dream to work with. The bottom part of the cart is now home to more lumber storage (currently Spanish Cedar, Granadillo, Maple and some Degoose inspired tumbling blocks blanks):



















*#2*

This is my original table saw - (I broke the saw and bought the new one, only to discover it was only a sheared snap ring - so I now have 2 saws…...kind of handy…) I built the router table out of 2" solid hard Maple. Good idea but not as accurate as I would have wanted. Also has a nice dust box setup on it. Hanging on the front of the saw is the Incra compatible fence I built out of Oak and clamps to the TS fence:



















*#1*

This is the first table I made - back when I had a 7' x 15' shop. it's 1.5" thick MDF top and is designed to bolt to a benchtop or sit on saw horses. Has an original Incra positioner and a custom storage box and a bit box built in. Actually works pretty well, but a bit on the small side. Use it mostly when I'm on the go:




























The reason for multiple tables is for a couple of reasons, lately my Dad and I have been building rasied panel doors, so multilple tables is really nice for making the rails and stiles. Also like to leave a straight bit and roundover bit setup in the secondary tables for those quick jobs without much setup.

Technically, I only have 3 plates (the Woodpecker PRL V2 lift, and 2 Rockler plates) so can only have 3 setup at one time….Routers include PC 7518, 890, 690 and Craftsmen (current version) 2 HP and some old version. 5 total (not even close to 30 so no need to comment here).

*#(-)1*

OK - so I lied - I actually have 5 tables - but the old Wolfcraft pretty much stays up in the floor joists these days…..










Thanks for looking!

Jeff


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Router Table x4*
> 
> I figure if a1Jim can have 30+ routers, I can have four router tables. Starting in reverse order (newest to oldest)...
> 
> *#4:*
> Just put the finishing touches on this today - basically cost me $20 for the Rockler pheonlic coated pywood (not counting the materials I had laying around):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all the homemade tabletops I'm made, this one defineately turned out the best. I used 8-32 threaded inserts to level the plate and ran some dados in the underside of the table so I could bolt it directly to the saw, this photo shows both from the underside of the table, used Maple flooring for the framework and pocket screws, it turned out good and flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a shot from the top side - you can the leveling screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make this a right side table on the saw so I don't have the slide the Incra LS TS Base Assembly every time I use the router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#3*
> 
> Most of you have seen this one (for more info, check my other posts) this is definately my main goto table with the Woodpeckers top and lift - it is a dream to work with. The bottom part of the cart is now home to more lumber storage (currently Spanish Cedar, Granadillo, Maple and some Degoose inspired tumbling blocks blanks):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#2*
> 
> This is my original table saw - (I broke the saw and bought the new one, only to discover it was only a sheared snap ring - so I now have 2 saws…...kind of handy…) I built the router table out of 2" solid hard Maple. Good idea but not as accurate as I would have wanted. Also has a nice dust box setup on it. Hanging on the front of the saw is the Incra compatible fence I built out of Oak and clamps to the TS fence:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#1*
> 
> This is the first table I made - back when I had a 7' x 15' shop. it's 1.5" thick MDF top and is designed to bolt to a benchtop or sit on saw horses. Has an original Incra positioner and a custom storage box and a bit box built in. Actually works pretty well, but a bit on the small side. Use it mostly when I'm on the go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason for multiple tables is for a couple of reasons, lately my Dad and I have been building rasied panel doors, so multilple tables is really nice for making the rails and stiles. Also like to leave a straight bit and roundover bit setup in the secondary tables for those quick jobs without much setup.
> 
> Technically, I only have 3 plates (the Woodpecker PRL V2 lift, and 2 Rockler plates) so can only have 3 setup at one time….Routers include PC 7518, 890, 690 and Craftsmen (current version) 2 HP and some old version. 5 total (not even close to 30 so no need to comment here).
> 
> *#(-)1*
> 
> OK - so I lied - I actually have 5 tables - but the old Wolfcraft pretty much stays up in the floor joists these days…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


WOw Jeff, I´m still making my first one.
I´m more jealous now seeing your babies

Take care


----------



## Eagle1

JL7 said:


> *Router Table x4*
> 
> I figure if a1Jim can have 30+ routers, I can have four router tables. Starting in reverse order (newest to oldest)...
> 
> *#4:*
> Just put the finishing touches on this today - basically cost me $20 for the Rockler pheonlic coated pywood (not counting the materials I had laying around):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all the homemade tabletops I'm made, this one defineately turned out the best. I used 8-32 threaded inserts to level the plate and ran some dados in the underside of the table so I could bolt it directly to the saw, this photo shows both from the underside of the table, used Maple flooring for the framework and pocket screws, it turned out good and flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a shot from the top side - you can the leveling screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make this a right side table on the saw so I don't have the slide the Incra LS TS Base Assembly every time I use the router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#3*
> 
> Most of you have seen this one (for more info, check my other posts) this is definately my main goto table with the Woodpeckers top and lift - it is a dream to work with. The bottom part of the cart is now home to more lumber storage (currently Spanish Cedar, Granadillo, Maple and some Degoose inspired tumbling blocks blanks):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#2*
> 
> This is my original table saw - (I broke the saw and bought the new one, only to discover it was only a sheared snap ring - so I now have 2 saws…...kind of handy…) I built the router table out of 2" solid hard Maple. Good idea but not as accurate as I would have wanted. Also has a nice dust box setup on it. Hanging on the front of the saw is the Incra compatible fence I built out of Oak and clamps to the TS fence:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#1*
> 
> This is the first table I made - back when I had a 7' x 15' shop. it's 1.5" thick MDF top and is designed to bolt to a benchtop or sit on saw horses. Has an original Incra positioner and a custom storage box and a bit box built in. Actually works pretty well, but a bit on the small side. Use it mostly when I'm on the go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason for multiple tables is for a couple of reasons, lately my Dad and I have been building rasied panel doors, so multilple tables is really nice for making the rails and stiles. Also like to leave a straight bit and roundover bit setup in the secondary tables for those quick jobs without much setup.
> 
> Technically, I only have 3 plates (the Woodpecker PRL V2 lift, and 2 Rockler plates) so can only have 3 setup at one time….Routers include PC 7518, 890, 690 and Craftsmen (current version) 2 HP and some old version. 5 total (not even close to 30 so no need to comment here).
> 
> *#(-)1*
> 
> OK - so I lied - I actually have 5 tables - but the old Wolfcraft pretty much stays up in the floor joists these days…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


Nice tables there Jeff. I have 1 that I built, I think that is all the room that I have for. I do have 4 routers. But not as many as Jim. I really like the modifacation of your craftsman table saw, I bet that sent you back a pretty penny.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Router Table x4*
> 
> I figure if a1Jim can have 30+ routers, I can have four router tables. Starting in reverse order (newest to oldest)...
> 
> *#4:*
> Just put the finishing touches on this today - basically cost me $20 for the Rockler pheonlic coated pywood (not counting the materials I had laying around):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all the homemade tabletops I'm made, this one defineately turned out the best. I used 8-32 threaded inserts to level the plate and ran some dados in the underside of the table so I could bolt it directly to the saw, this photo shows both from the underside of the table, used Maple flooring for the framework and pocket screws, it turned out good and flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a shot from the top side - you can the leveling screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make this a right side table on the saw so I don't have the slide the Incra LS TS Base Assembly every time I use the router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#3*
> 
> Most of you have seen this one (for more info, check my other posts) this is definately my main goto table with the Woodpeckers top and lift - it is a dream to work with. The bottom part of the cart is now home to more lumber storage (currently Spanish Cedar, Granadillo, Maple and some Degoose inspired tumbling blocks blanks):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#2*
> 
> This is my original table saw - (I broke the saw and bought the new one, only to discover it was only a sheared snap ring - so I now have 2 saws…...kind of handy…) I built the router table out of 2" solid hard Maple. Good idea but not as accurate as I would have wanted. Also has a nice dust box setup on it. Hanging on the front of the saw is the Incra compatible fence I built out of Oak and clamps to the TS fence:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#1*
> 
> This is the first table I made - back when I had a 7' x 15' shop. it's 1.5" thick MDF top and is designed to bolt to a benchtop or sit on saw horses. Has an original Incra positioner and a custom storage box and a bit box built in. Actually works pretty well, but a bit on the small side. Use it mostly when I'm on the go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason for multiple tables is for a couple of reasons, lately my Dad and I have been building rasied panel doors, so multilple tables is really nice for making the rails and stiles. Also like to leave a straight bit and roundover bit setup in the secondary tables for those quick jobs without much setup.
> 
> Technically, I only have 3 plates (the Woodpecker PRL V2 lift, and 2 Rockler plates) so can only have 3 setup at one time….Routers include PC 7518, 890, 690 and Craftsmen (current version) 2 HP and some old version. 5 total (not even close to 30 so no need to comment here).
> 
> *#(-)1*
> 
> OK - so I lied - I actually have 5 tables - but the old Wolfcraft pretty much stays up in the floor joists these days…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


Hey Fernando - still waiting to see your progress on the new router table!!?? Appreciate the comments.

Tim - I guess it depends on your defination of a pretty penny, but the new Craftsman saw cost $380 new with discounts. The Incra LS TS was purchased off CL slightly used for around $200 and included the extra legs and the left side phenolic covered extension table. $20 for the new left side table, plus Rockler plate at $70 or so, brings the total investment to $670 give or take.

The fence from the new saw bolted up directly to the old Craftsman saw - took about 30 minutes to install.

Thanks for the comments.

Jeff


----------



## WoodArtbyJR

JL7 said:


> *Router Table x4*
> 
> I figure if a1Jim can have 30+ routers, I can have four router tables. Starting in reverse order (newest to oldest)...
> 
> *#4:*
> Just put the finishing touches on this today - basically cost me $20 for the Rockler pheonlic coated pywood (not counting the materials I had laying around):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all the homemade tabletops I'm made, this one defineately turned out the best. I used 8-32 threaded inserts to level the plate and ran some dados in the underside of the table so I could bolt it directly to the saw, this photo shows both from the underside of the table, used Maple flooring for the framework and pocket screws, it turned out good and flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a shot from the top side - you can the leveling screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make this a right side table on the saw so I don't have the slide the Incra LS TS Base Assembly every time I use the router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#3*
> 
> Most of you have seen this one (for more info, check my other posts) this is definately my main goto table with the Woodpeckers top and lift - it is a dream to work with. The bottom part of the cart is now home to more lumber storage (currently Spanish Cedar, Granadillo, Maple and some Degoose inspired tumbling blocks blanks):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#2*
> 
> This is my original table saw - (I broke the saw and bought the new one, only to discover it was only a sheared snap ring - so I now have 2 saws…...kind of handy…) I built the router table out of 2" solid hard Maple. Good idea but not as accurate as I would have wanted. Also has a nice dust box setup on it. Hanging on the front of the saw is the Incra compatible fence I built out of Oak and clamps to the TS fence:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#1*
> 
> This is the first table I made - back when I had a 7' x 15' shop. it's 1.5" thick MDF top and is designed to bolt to a benchtop or sit on saw horses. Has an original Incra positioner and a custom storage box and a bit box built in. Actually works pretty well, but a bit on the small side. Use it mostly when I'm on the go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason for multiple tables is for a couple of reasons, lately my Dad and I have been building rasied panel doors, so multilple tables is really nice for making the rails and stiles. Also like to leave a straight bit and roundover bit setup in the secondary tables for those quick jobs without much setup.
> 
> Technically, I only have 3 plates (the Woodpecker PRL V2 lift, and 2 Rockler plates) so can only have 3 setup at one time….Routers include PC 7518, 890, 690 and Craftsmen (current version) 2 HP and some old version. 5 total (not even close to 30 so no need to comment here).
> 
> *#(-)1*
> 
> OK - so I lied - I actually have 5 tables - but the old Wolfcraft pretty much stays up in the floor joists these days…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


Jeff,
As always, you just gave me an idea. As you know, I bought one of those Jess-Em phenolic router lifts at Christmas time and I STILL haven't installed it. Problem is, the insert is a different size from my Jess_Em Master Lift so I have to make a new table top. After seeing your set up I have a new plan. Instead of REPLACING the old Master Lift, I will ADD the new one to it's own table. There are times that I could use two tables set up at the same time. So, THANK YOU for the inspiration to add more STUFF to my already full shop. I wish my shop was half as clean as yours.

Take care my friend

Jim


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Router Table x4*
> 
> I figure if a1Jim can have 30+ routers, I can have four router tables. Starting in reverse order (newest to oldest)...
> 
> *#4:*
> Just put the finishing touches on this today - basically cost me $20 for the Rockler pheonlic coated pywood (not counting the materials I had laying around):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of all the homemade tabletops I'm made, this one defineately turned out the best. I used 8-32 threaded inserts to level the plate and ran some dados in the underside of the table so I could bolt it directly to the saw, this photo shows both from the underside of the table, used Maple flooring for the framework and pocket screws, it turned out good and flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a shot from the top side - you can the leveling screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make this a right side table on the saw so I don't have the slide the Incra LS TS Base Assembly every time I use the router.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#3*
> 
> Most of you have seen this one (for more info, check my other posts) this is definately my main goto table with the Woodpeckers top and lift - it is a dream to work with. The bottom part of the cart is now home to more lumber storage (currently Spanish Cedar, Granadillo, Maple and some Degoose inspired tumbling blocks blanks):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#2*
> 
> This is my original table saw - (I broke the saw and bought the new one, only to discover it was only a sheared snap ring - so I now have 2 saws…...kind of handy…) I built the router table out of 2" solid hard Maple. Good idea but not as accurate as I would have wanted. Also has a nice dust box setup on it. Hanging on the front of the saw is the Incra compatible fence I built out of Oak and clamps to the TS fence:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *#1*
> 
> This is the first table I made - back when I had a 7' x 15' shop. it's 1.5" thick MDF top and is designed to bolt to a benchtop or sit on saw horses. Has an original Incra positioner and a custom storage box and a bit box built in. Actually works pretty well, but a bit on the small side. Use it mostly when I'm on the go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason for multiple tables is for a couple of reasons, lately my Dad and I have been building rasied panel doors, so multilple tables is really nice for making the rails and stiles. Also like to leave a straight bit and roundover bit setup in the secondary tables for those quick jobs without much setup.
> 
> Technically, I only have 3 plates (the Woodpecker PRL V2 lift, and 2 Rockler plates) so can only have 3 setup at one time….Routers include PC 7518, 890, 690 and Craftsmen (current version) 2 HP and some old version. 5 total (not even close to 30 so no need to comment here).
> 
> *#(-)1*
> 
> OK - so I lied - I actually have 5 tables - but the old Wolfcraft pretty much stays up in the floor joists these days…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


Hey Jim - glad I could help out out in "I need a bigger shop space" category…....In a future installment I will document how my "need more shop space" journey went!

Good luck on the new table!

Jeff


----------



## JL7

*shop evolution - a video*

I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.

It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.

Jeff


----------



## RGtools

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


I think it's time to admit. You have an addiction.


----------



## alphageek

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


Oh man… I want your shop…. and your supplies… and that wood pile…... Ok.. time to wipe the drool off my keyboard.


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff , that was

*A W E S O M E ! ! !*

Really enjoyed.

Love how the tiny shop back in October started, without haste and without pause, to get crowded of toys. Lol

Nice clip, Astonishing shop you made.

Thanks for the video


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


most impressive. It looks like you started small found what you wanted and grew into it. Man thats great stuff and a great shop. All I want is your wood pile. *WOW*
thanks for posting
Good tunes to. Now I think I will go listen to some Tull


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


@RG - I don't think I ever denied it…..if you hang around LJ too long - it's nothing but enablers

@alphageek - just keep watching Craigslist - that's where 95% of the wood and toys came from…..far less than retail!

@fernanado - thanks man! Really makes my day. Your work has really inspired me, so it's all a give and take.

@superdav - thanks for the cool comments - the wood pile is a series of really good finds. The motherload was a truckload of exotics I found for pennies on the dollar - I probably shouldn't say this - but I have more in the utility room, garage and shed that I didn't put in the video.
Here's the deal, when I got interested in this stuff, I never had "real wood" to work with. Ran to the big box and picked up a piece here and there, it sucked.
I made a point to find some good material and let it acclimate to the shop, so I can just grab some material and build.
That's how I like to go. My skills don't include planning ahead, and then buying wood. I am more from the school of "what can I build from this….

Thanks again for the great comments…
Jeff


----------



## Sailor

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


Geez, that was amazing man, really. Loved that video….. Your lumber stock is incredible!


----------



## rkoorman

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


I like the difference from start to finish. It's a great looking shop!!


----------



## Ken90712

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


Great job all the way around on this! It was fun to watch you grow not only in work-space area but the quality of tools and your collection as well. You have some very cool storage ideas and great dust collection plumbing. Seems you are addicted like alot of us. Wife and I are talking about tearing our garage and shop down to build a 2 story garage making the whole 1st level a woodshop and move the game room up to the 2nd level. Triple the space. Your wood collection is quite impressive as well.

Very nice post thx for sharing.


----------



## gpastor

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


Yes, you are a true woodaddict.










You can buy the pin now!
http://www.cafepress.com/woodworking4u.101267469


----------



## GaryD

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


Man, that is a transformation. Well done. Now the real question, what does the wife say about you taking over the basement?


----------



## rowdy

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff, please DON"T post any more. You are making me begin to think I should just give it up and become a hobo. Seriously, what you have accomplished is just short of remarkable….. no, it is remarkable, especially when most of it has come from the sources you mentioned. Keep up the good work!!!!!


----------



## RexMcKinnon

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


Wow, what a shop. I love the swing down clamp rack.


----------



## dbhost

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


I have been watching a lot of your projects as you post them as your storage solutions have always intrigued me. It was a lot of fun to watch it all more or less come together in this video / slideshow… You are either single, or have a VERY understanding wife though, it looks like you took over 75% or more of your basement!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


Wow - more great comments - THANKS! It is probably obvious that I'm not married - I certainly was as one time and then we wouldn't be debating about this post, if you know what I mean. I have 2 very understanding kids (well young adults, my youngest turns 18 next month). They put up really well with the racket from below.

It is an obsession that many of us have - Ken - good luck on your 2 story garage project, sounds like your wife is behing the plan, so go for it!

As far as the tools go - I clearly can't afford the best tools, but I try to maximize the abilities of the tools I have, whenever possible.

Bottom line, which I believe is true for most of us, this is only a snapshot of what can be a great journey.

And Rowdy - don't kid yourself - the stuff you are doing is incredible and really inspirational - it's folks like you that fuel my interest to build on.

Thanks!

Jeff


----------



## TMcG

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


Another one, awesome video ! And, Yes, that is some wood pile, love the labels !!


----------



## Geedubs

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


I am overwhelmed and obsessed with one inescapable thought…I HOPE YOU NEVER HAVE TO MOVE! Wow.


----------



## storsveguten

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


This is one of the coolest shop tours I've seen! Interesting to see the evolution of your shop, great job!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


More great comments - thanks!

Geedubs - I hope I don't need to move either - my back hurts just thinking about it!

I see the wood room is a big hit - might post an update with more details - it's all about the wood!

Jeff


----------



## davethenovice

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


Wow - sweet tour of your awesome shop and its evolution. Its awesome!


----------



## Robw

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff, thanks for the video. You have a great shop. Did you haul all that stuff down the stairs? That is quite an inventory of wood. I allways aquire wood when I see some good stuff and store it till there is a project for it. Any advice on your obvious success at scoring wood? The progression of your shop is amazing, some times working on the shop is the best project. Thanks for shaiing.

Rob


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *shop evolution - a video*
> 
> I got interested in woodworking about 2-1/2 years ago and this video shows how my shop grew - taking over the rest of the finished basement…....oops.
> 
> It's about 9 minutes long - with Tommy Bolin on the soundtrack. You'll notice the space filling out - the tools changing - hope you enjoy.
> 
> Jeff


Dave - Appreciate the comments!

Hey Rob - I DID haul all that stuff down the steps - sometimes had help tho…..(not as often as I would like…)

So the new blog has been posted here, hopefully answering some of other questions..

Thanks for the comments Rob.

Jeff


----------



## JL7

*The Wood Room*










By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.

Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.

I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.

If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.

I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.

Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.

I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........

I saw this ad on CL:










It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.

Here is some of that original lot:










Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….










In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:

Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus










I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:



















Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):










A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:










The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.














































More photos from this exotic lot:

8/4 Lacewood:










4/4 Lacewood:










Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:










From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.










On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…










Cocobolo:



















Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:



















8/4 Sapele










8/4 Zebrawood:










(Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood










Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:










And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:










Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:




























And other nooks and crannies:










Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):










Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):



















Other finds:

A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:










Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:










In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:










From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:










The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:

You never know when you need one of these gems:










Plywood scraps?










Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....

For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.

Jeff


----------



## patron

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


gasp !

you are very fortunate

i can only dream


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


David - appreciate the "gasp"..! Someday I hope to turn this into projects that evoke that emotion…..

Jeff


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Ok now I wont be able to sleep tonight! WOW. Dude I now know where all the wood is going. jk Thanks or sharing.


----------



## BritBoxmaker

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


That little lot should keep you going for a while!


----------



## amateur

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


No wonder great wood is hard to find, you have it all! Thanks for the tour.


----------



## sbryan55

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff, you may not want to hear this but I have to tell you that you have a serious wood addiction! 

This is an enviable wood stash that you have managed to collect. I can see that you are going to be busy trying to use this up. Thanks for the pictures. I enjoyed seeing this.


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Yowsers!
That is a truly gorgeous spread of wood. 
Suddenly I feel very weak.

Steve


----------



## woodman1962

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


man now that is a lot of nice wood


----------



## Bertha

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


You, my friend, are my hero. I was tearing up as I read about it. Nice truck, too


----------



## WoodArtbyJR

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


OK Jeff, you are in need of an intervention on your addition…....lol I've been lucky enough to run into a couple of nice finds but I feel humbled by your scores. Problem is (on my end) we have an individual in the area that buys all lots available and resells on craigslist. Nice thing about him is that he resells at a very reasonable price. BUT, I am able to make a few finds every now and then. I wish I had half the storage space or at least your sense of organizational skills. Very nicely marked and segragated. Most of the stuff I am able to get is not marked and the folks haven't a clue as to their true identity (and neither do I). Nice post. It just goes to show that you can find nice wood without breaking the bank. If the wife only had a clue as to the true value of what is stored downstairs…........

Love it

Jim


----------



## twokidsnosleep

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Oh man, color me solid green jealous!!
Loving the varieties and sizes of the exotics, but also the space to store them and the organization you have created.
Really well done


----------



## whitedog

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


I could make a few boxes with that stash… wish you were my neighbor . Some great wood.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Thanks for all the great comments - and the honorable mention on the rusty, but trusty truck. Believe it or not, my brother scored the truck for me for $200, but it needed a new clutch ($100).....it's got the straight six with the manual 5 speed and runs like a champ…..love it. The neighbors don't love it as much as I do tho, parked out front. Not shown is the custom John Deere / Artic Cat stickered tail gate, very classy.

I should mention that I have sold and bartered some of the wood - traded 5 boards for my lathe and sold a good size lot of 8/4 Zebrawood - he made an offer I couldn't refuse…......

Ok - back to the shop….......

Jeff


----------



## WoodArtbyJR

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


OK Jeff, I'm going to make a comment that I know you, and a few others, will appreciate. THANK YOU for taking the time and energy that it takes to post a post like this. It is time consuming to add all the pics and comments and get them organized to the correct picture. Job well done and thank you. Your comment of, "Ok - back to the shop" has true meaning.

Jim


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Jim - that is a mighty fine comment - thanks….we all appreciate a little positive feedback. It is a bit of a pain to post a lenghty blog on here - I don't know if it's just me, but when I type in the info, the screen constantly scrolls back to the beginning of the entry….....pretty annoying but manageable I guess.

You also reminded me that I forgot to post the infamous Bamboo plywood!

this one's for you Jim:










Jeff


----------



## freidasdad

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


do want to adopt me??


----------



## lwoodt

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


wow.you are set for life.


----------



## Robw

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Wow, what a collection of wood. Looks like you have enough to keep you busy for a long time. Thanks for posting, I think I'll go look on Craigslist now…

Rob


----------



## Broglea

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Oh my! What a treat to be given a tour of this heaven. Your stash would last me a life time.


----------



## Bertha

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price.  The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff, I thought it was just me. It's frustrating to try to insert a photo, only to have it bounce back to the top of the post. Unless you've got your pictures cleverly named, you have to keep previewing, etc. I feel your pain and have been frustrated with this myself.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


@FredasDad - ah…..no.

@lou - Rob and Broglea - thanks for the comments! I imagine the stash will last awhile - even tho I have tons of cool boards, I still feel a little guilty cutting into to some of the nicer ones…......I do want to tackle some larger (furniture) type stuff so thats eat up the wood. we'll see….

@Bertha - OK so it's not just me - I don't name my pictures either so I have to do the preview thing and try to figure out where the pictures landed…..scratch my head….walk away and grab a fresh beer…..

Jeff


----------



## Mesquiteman99

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Jeff, fantastic collection of the finest hardwoods in the world. You have something from just about all 4 corners of the earth. For those of us always looking for a deal, here's one way. On the last load I exported out of Belize, I noticed that the pallet that the guys in the mill made for my lumber was 2 - 4"x6"x7' Honduran Rosewood for the skids with Granadillo 1"x6"'s for cross members. They seem to use whatever is laying around to make the pallets. If you don't mind looking out for nails and screw, it's a good way to find some cheap treasures. Once again, awesome wood room ! SM


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Mesquiteman99 - thanks for the cool comments and story…....I really can't even imagine receiving a Rosewood/Grandillo skid. How awesome is that? What did you do with the 4×6 Rosewood slabs??

Jeff


----------



## lashing

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


I've heard this "skid" story a few times. Apparantly Brazilian rosewood and other stuff left Brazil on them. Hard to imagine why.
Must have been the low grade. Which of course is todays Ebay high grade.


----------



## rance

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Nice collection. Hey Al, maybe you could trade some of your (hoarded) chisel collection for some of this nice lumber. LOL!


----------



## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


That is a disgusting amount of wood. I thought I had a wood hoarding problem, now that I have seen your stash, I realize what a real wood pile looks like, and that my problem is not as bad as I thought. Awesome collection, thanks for sharing.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


I don't know whether to say I love you or hate you.
Most of these woods you mention are extremely exotic in my world.
I have a lot of sapelle. I call it mahogany just to not argue with locals.
However, until recently when a few buddies sent me some small lots of different woods, I figured that sapelle would be the most exotic wood I would ever get the privelege of working with. 
I'd be scared to have half the wood choices you have. I might die from joy overload.


----------



## CFrye

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


OK Jeff, I came to look at the black pipe storage and promptly forgot about the system and drooled over the hoard. Oh my! AND it reminded me of a statement you made about using some of the 'sacred' wood…Maybe I can focus on the storage system the second time through…maybe…


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff





> OK Jeff, I came to look at the black pipe storage and promptly forgot about the system and drooled over the hoard. Oh my! AND it reminded me of a statement you made about using some of the sacred wood…Maybe I can focus on the storage system the second time through…maybe…
> 
> - CFrye


 from one wood hoarder to another….thanks….

I gotta get the sacred wood out one of these days, still looking for ideas!


----------



## firefighterontheside

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Geez!


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff





> I gotta get the sacred wood out one of these days, still looking for ideas!
> 
> - JL7


YES, you do!!!


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


yep Jeff has got a lot of wood.
Horder!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff





> Geez!
> 
> - firefighterontheside


Watch the CL Bill!



> I gotta get the sacred wood out one of these days, still looking for ideas!
> 
> - JL7
> 
> YES, you do!!!
> 
> - DIYaholic


Working on it…....



> yep Jeff has got a lot of wood.
> Horder!
> 
> - Dave


Dave - you da man…...Can't find any help for the hoarding…....any ideas?


----------



## firefighterontheside

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


I've been. Thought I was gonna get a walnut tree, but…..guy stopped replying.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wood Room*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By popular demand - after posting my recent shop video - I received several positive comments on the wood room.
> 
> Some folks were wondering where the collection came from.
> 
> I suppose this is a wood gloat - but only as it relates to the fact that there is something inheirently cool in collecting great wood. I have been lucky in that I have found some great deals on Craigslist some local lumberyards and some local online auctions.
> 
> If you can find the Curly Maple in the photos to follow - I did actually pay retail price for that - otherwise - everything shown below was bought below retail…........usually well below retail.
> 
> I am also lucky to have a nice little space in the shop to warehouse the goodies.
> 
> Early on with woodworking my biggest frustration was not having actual wood to work with, besides old 2×4's and other odd scraps.
> 
> I should add that some of the photos below may be from the shed, garage and utility room as well…...........
> 
> I saw this ad on CL:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It ran for 2 or 3 weeks and I watched it daily wishing I had the money to own this fine lot - I finally called and offered to buy a portion that I could afford - he said come on out to take a look and ended up buying the whole lot for for a greatly reduced price. The exotic stuff can be really addictive - I love the way it machines - just make sure you have a sharp Woodworker II blade and you are good to go.
> 
> Here is some of that original lot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below are Rosewood boards from that lot - they are so heavy I am afraid for my planer. These are the kind of boards that make me say "I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy"....... Someday I will post a project with these beauties….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime - I was picking up various small lots of hardwood flooring - I probably have 15 different species of domestic and exotic examples. You can always get these cheap in small lots and find lots of uses for this material in shop projects as well as finished projects:
> 
> Here is Jabota - Brazilian Chestnut, 2 kinds of Rosewood, Ipe, and Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also answered a CL ad for hardwood shorts from a local sawyer "Log to Lumber" and for $100, he supplied me a ton of really cool domestic wood, no duds here - lots of Hickory, Walnut, Maple QSWO, Ash, Cherry, etc…...some photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Along the way - got some "free" lots inclucding a truckload of from a retired cabinet restorer and his kids wanted nothing to do with the business…..Included a bunch of Mahogany (a fraction is shown here):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A local lumberyard also gets weird lots of stuff and good deals can be found - not always the top grade lumber but always an adventure - here is 16/4 Paduck - a bit rough, but very beautiful, and price was very right - pictured is the last half of what I bought - the rest is in projects:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motherload was answering a CL ad for some Lacewood - not too far from home, I drove my rusty F150 over there only to leave with a load of mixed exotic wood. I couldn't believe the truck would haul it - it was so heavy. Pennies on the dollar, it was being in the right place at the right time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More photos from this exotic lot:
> 
> 8/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4/4 Lacewood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Cocobolo - Bubinga - Makore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the top - Yellowheart (Pau Amarello), Makore (Ash strips in front, not from the exotic lot, but free on CL), Lacewood below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the shelf below - 10' Bubinga boards with a pile Anigre on top and in front (the small blanks are Lignum Vitae - on sale at Rockler last month…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cocobolo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Granadillo and Spanish Cedar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Sapele
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8/4 Zebrawood:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Counterclockwise from top left) Maple - Cherry - Sapele - Tigerwood (Goncalo Alves) - Sapele - Cocobolo - Maple - Zebrawood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also on the shelf - some 8/4 Walnut and 4/4 hard Maple:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a stack of thin cut Claro Walnut - this is really cool stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shorts are (somewhat) sorted by species or category on the bottom rows:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And other nooks and crannies:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also tried my hand at sawing my own lumber (Maple and Ash):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a sliding jig on precison rollers (removed the band saw table for maximum cut):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other finds:
> 
> A bunch of Maple blanks - good cutting board stock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bowling Lane (all Hard maple)- have more than pictured (alot more) but got it all for less than $60 - hard to work wiith tho - full of nails - will use it up eventually:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the shed - some really rough Red Oak (super cheap, but planes up pretty well), Walnut, various flooring, and bolwing lane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From the utility room comes this - Maple flooring on top, Oak in middle and Maple on the bottom - all CL finds:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The less glamorous side of the room - under the steps:
> 
> You never know when you need one of these gems:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plywood scraps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually this last shot shows my entire lumber storage area from the original shop - oh how times change…....
> 
> For those of you that actually made it to the end of this blog - thanks for checking it out….......hope you enjoyed it.
> 
> Jeff


Bill, Keep watching, there is more out there…..


----------



## JL7

*The Wall*

This wall has been an eyesore for awhile now….during some of the shop expansions, it got repurposed a few times…

*Here is the before picture:*










*And the after picture:*










I still need to build tool holders and such for the wall cleats - the stuff in the photo are existing things I hung up for the photo - but it's a good start.

*Some build photos….....*

*The wall* was resheeted in cheap borg ply and added four rows of wall cleats made from Maple flooring:



















*The bases *are Oak - really rough Oak, but it cleans up ok….I left the knots and all. All mortise and tenon and super sturdy:




























One base has the angled "dust-free" shelves and the other has a flat bottom with random width stock - literally cut whatever was in the shorts bin…




























The slanted version has little adjustable block things that you can put wherever to store whatever:



















*The countertop* is more repurposed bowling alley lane. Also added the Jatoba strips so it matches the workbench

Here is the raw bowling lane - it is the thin stuff they use on the approach area:










And with the nails removed:










And surfaced:










Made 2 six foot counters (18" wide), and built each one in 2 pieces so I could run them through the power planer before gluing the 2 sides together:



















Unfortuneately they still weren't flat….....flat is not easy to come by….I tried hand planing but the tearout was out of control.

Not sure I would recommend this next step, but it did work resonably well. I took the sliding table off my drum sander And fed the boards in from the outfeed side - sanding half the length at a time. The problems are sander snipe (really easy to do using this technique) and some mismatch in the middle.

The hand belt sander covered up some of these problems, and for the most part - they are pretty darn flat:










Also built a wall cleat mount for the monitor and added a sliding keyboard tray so it should help keep the counter clear:










The computer is below the counter:










Here is the bench and counter:










Like I said before - have a bunch of stuff I want to store on the wall - so more updates on that later:










Now for something totally different - check out this cool little garage sale find ($2.00). I figured I would pop the gauge out of it and use it in a project - but it's cool as is - I believe it was built in the 50's by Woodcroftery and it is stamped "Cherry".




























Thanks for looking!

Jeff


----------



## WoodArtbyJR

JL7 said:


> *The Wall*
> 
> This wall has been an eyesore for awhile now….during some of the shop expansions, it got repurposed a few times…
> 
> *Here is the before picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And the after picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build tool holders and such for the wall cleats - the stuff in the photo are existing things I hung up for the photo - but it's a good start.
> 
> *Some build photos….....*
> 
> *The wall* was resheeted in cheap borg ply and added four rows of wall cleats made from Maple flooring:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The bases *are Oak - really rough Oak, but it cleans up ok….I left the knots and all. All mortise and tenon and super sturdy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One base has the angled "dust-free" shelves and the other has a flat bottom with random width stock - literally cut whatever was in the shorts bin…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The slanted version has little adjustable block things that you can put wherever to store whatever:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The countertop* is more repurposed bowling alley lane. Also added the Jatoba strips so it matches the workbench
> 
> Here is the raw bowling lane - it is the thin stuff they use on the approach area:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the nails removed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And surfaced:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made 2 six foot counters (18" wide), and built each one in 2 pieces so I could run them through the power planer before gluing the 2 sides together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortuneately they still weren't flat….....flat is not easy to come by….I tried hand planing but the tearout was out of control.
> 
> Not sure I would recommend this next step, but it did work resonably well. I took the sliding table off my drum sander And fed the boards in from the outfeed side - sanding half the length at a time. The problems are sander snipe (really easy to do using this technique) and some mismatch in the middle.
> 
> The hand belt sander covered up some of these problems, and for the most part - they are pretty darn flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also built a wall cleat mount for the monitor and added a sliding keyboard tray so it should help keep the counter clear:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The computer is below the counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bench and counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said before - have a bunch of stuff I want to store on the wall - so more updates on that later:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for something totally different - check out this cool little garage sale find ($2.00). I figured I would pop the gauge out of it and use it in a project - but it's cool as is - I believe it was built in the 50's by Woodcroftery and it is stamped "Cherry".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


Very nice Jeff, you make me feel bad because mine is such a pig pen. Like the way the bench top came out. Job well done.

Jim

Hey, did you see, Jeffery (God of Biscuts) won Reserve Grand Champion on his clock entry?


----------



## Pie

JL7 said:


> *The Wall*
> 
> This wall has been an eyesore for awhile now….during some of the shop expansions, it got repurposed a few times…
> 
> *Here is the before picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And the after picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build tool holders and such for the wall cleats - the stuff in the photo are existing things I hung up for the photo - but it's a good start.
> 
> *Some build photos….....*
> 
> *The wall* was resheeted in cheap borg ply and added four rows of wall cleats made from Maple flooring:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The bases *are Oak - really rough Oak, but it cleans up ok….I left the knots and all. All mortise and tenon and super sturdy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One base has the angled "dust-free" shelves and the other has a flat bottom with random width stock - literally cut whatever was in the shorts bin…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The slanted version has little adjustable block things that you can put wherever to store whatever:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The countertop* is more repurposed bowling alley lane. Also added the Jatoba strips so it matches the workbench
> 
> Here is the raw bowling lane - it is the thin stuff they use on the approach area:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the nails removed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And surfaced:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made 2 six foot counters (18" wide), and built each one in 2 pieces so I could run them through the power planer before gluing the 2 sides together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortuneately they still weren't flat….....flat is not easy to come by….I tried hand planing but the tearout was out of control.
> 
> Not sure I would recommend this next step, but it did work resonably well. I took the sliding table off my drum sander And fed the boards in from the outfeed side - sanding half the length at a time. The problems are sander snipe (really easy to do using this technique) and some mismatch in the middle.
> 
> The hand belt sander covered up some of these problems, and for the most part - they are pretty darn flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also built a wall cleat mount for the monitor and added a sliding keyboard tray so it should help keep the counter clear:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The computer is below the counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bench and counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said before - have a bunch of stuff I want to store on the wall - so more updates on that later:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for something totally different - check out this cool little garage sale find ($2.00). I figured I would pop the gauge out of it and use it in a project - but it's cool as is - I believe it was built in the 50's by Woodcroftery and it is stamped "Cherry".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


WOW! Lots of work there, very nice. What exactly is that thing you found at the yard sale? It is pretty nice.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wall*
> 
> This wall has been an eyesore for awhile now….during some of the shop expansions, it got repurposed a few times…
> 
> *Here is the before picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And the after picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build tool holders and such for the wall cleats - the stuff in the photo are existing things I hung up for the photo - but it's a good start.
> 
> *Some build photos….....*
> 
> *The wall* was resheeted in cheap borg ply and added four rows of wall cleats made from Maple flooring:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The bases *are Oak - really rough Oak, but it cleans up ok….I left the knots and all. All mortise and tenon and super sturdy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One base has the angled "dust-free" shelves and the other has a flat bottom with random width stock - literally cut whatever was in the shorts bin…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The slanted version has little adjustable block things that you can put wherever to store whatever:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The countertop* is more repurposed bowling alley lane. Also added the Jatoba strips so it matches the workbench
> 
> Here is the raw bowling lane - it is the thin stuff they use on the approach area:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the nails removed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And surfaced:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made 2 six foot counters (18" wide), and built each one in 2 pieces so I could run them through the power planer before gluing the 2 sides together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortuneately they still weren't flat….....flat is not easy to come by….I tried hand planing but the tearout was out of control.
> 
> Not sure I would recommend this next step, but it did work resonably well. I took the sliding table off my drum sander And fed the boards in from the outfeed side - sanding half the length at a time. The problems are sander snipe (really easy to do using this technique) and some mismatch in the middle.
> 
> The hand belt sander covered up some of these problems, and for the most part - they are pretty darn flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also built a wall cleat mount for the monitor and added a sliding keyboard tray so it should help keep the counter clear:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The computer is below the counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bench and counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said before - have a bunch of stuff I want to store on the wall - so more updates on that later:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for something totally different - check out this cool little garage sale find ($2.00). I figured I would pop the gauge out of it and use it in a project - but it's cool as is - I believe it was built in the 50's by Woodcroftery and it is stamped "Cherry".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


Hey Jim - good to hear from you - thansk for the comments and not familar with the clock entry/ Whats the story?

Pie - Thanks for the comments - I belive it is a Hygrometer for measuring the moisture in the air. The scale it uses seems wrong to me, maybe someone out there knows this gadget. The little hole on the back is for calibrating - there is a little screw in there and will adjust the reading to whatever you want…

Jeff


----------



## JamesClapperton

JL7 said:


> *The Wall*
> 
> This wall has been an eyesore for awhile now….during some of the shop expansions, it got repurposed a few times…
> 
> *Here is the before picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And the after picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build tool holders and such for the wall cleats - the stuff in the photo are existing things I hung up for the photo - but it's a good start.
> 
> *Some build photos….....*
> 
> *The wall* was resheeted in cheap borg ply and added four rows of wall cleats made from Maple flooring:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The bases *are Oak - really rough Oak, but it cleans up ok….I left the knots and all. All mortise and tenon and super sturdy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One base has the angled "dust-free" shelves and the other has a flat bottom with random width stock - literally cut whatever was in the shorts bin…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The slanted version has little adjustable block things that you can put wherever to store whatever:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The countertop* is more repurposed bowling alley lane. Also added the Jatoba strips so it matches the workbench
> 
> Here is the raw bowling lane - it is the thin stuff they use on the approach area:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the nails removed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And surfaced:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made 2 six foot counters (18" wide), and built each one in 2 pieces so I could run them through the power planer before gluing the 2 sides together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortuneately they still weren't flat….....flat is not easy to come by….I tried hand planing but the tearout was out of control.
> 
> Not sure I would recommend this next step, but it did work resonably well. I took the sliding table off my drum sander And fed the boards in from the outfeed side - sanding half the length at a time. The problems are sander snipe (really easy to do using this technique) and some mismatch in the middle.
> 
> The hand belt sander covered up some of these problems, and for the most part - they are pretty darn flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also built a wall cleat mount for the monitor and added a sliding keyboard tray so it should help keep the counter clear:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The computer is below the counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bench and counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said before - have a bunch of stuff I want to store on the wall - so more updates on that later:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for something totally different - check out this cool little garage sale find ($2.00). I figured I would pop the gauge out of it and use it in a project - but it's cool as is - I believe it was built in the 50's by Woodcroftery and it is stamped "Cherry".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


The gadget is a barometer. It's to forecast weather and read humidity. Nice work on the shop. Love the benches.


----------



## jumbojack

JL7 said:


> *The Wall*
> 
> This wall has been an eyesore for awhile now….during some of the shop expansions, it got repurposed a few times…
> 
> *Here is the before picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And the after picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build tool holders and such for the wall cleats - the stuff in the photo are existing things I hung up for the photo - but it's a good start.
> 
> *Some build photos….....*
> 
> *The wall* was resheeted in cheap borg ply and added four rows of wall cleats made from Maple flooring:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The bases *are Oak - really rough Oak, but it cleans up ok….I left the knots and all. All mortise and tenon and super sturdy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One base has the angled "dust-free" shelves and the other has a flat bottom with random width stock - literally cut whatever was in the shorts bin…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The slanted version has little adjustable block things that you can put wherever to store whatever:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The countertop* is more repurposed bowling alley lane. Also added the Jatoba strips so it matches the workbench
> 
> Here is the raw bowling lane - it is the thin stuff they use on the approach area:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the nails removed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And surfaced:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made 2 six foot counters (18" wide), and built each one in 2 pieces so I could run them through the power planer before gluing the 2 sides together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortuneately they still weren't flat….....flat is not easy to come by….I tried hand planing but the tearout was out of control.
> 
> Not sure I would recommend this next step, but it did work resonably well. I took the sliding table off my drum sander And fed the boards in from the outfeed side - sanding half the length at a time. The problems are sander snipe (really easy to do using this technique) and some mismatch in the middle.
> 
> The hand belt sander covered up some of these problems, and for the most part - they are pretty darn flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also built a wall cleat mount for the monitor and added a sliding keyboard tray so it should help keep the counter clear:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The computer is below the counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bench and counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said before - have a bunch of stuff I want to store on the wall - so more updates on that later:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for something totally different - check out this cool little garage sale find ($2.00). I figured I would pop the gauge out of it and use it in a project - but it's cool as is - I believe it was built in the 50's by Woodcroftery and it is stamped "Cherry".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


you guys in the midwest have cool basements. out here in california basements are creepy small dank places that bad people take the unwary to do the unspeakable.


----------



## Manitario

JL7 said:


> *The Wall*
> 
> This wall has been an eyesore for awhile now….during some of the shop expansions, it got repurposed a few times…
> 
> *Here is the before picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And the after picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build tool holders and such for the wall cleats - the stuff in the photo are existing things I hung up for the photo - but it's a good start.
> 
> *Some build photos….....*
> 
> *The wall* was resheeted in cheap borg ply and added four rows of wall cleats made from Maple flooring:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The bases *are Oak - really rough Oak, but it cleans up ok….I left the knots and all. All mortise and tenon and super sturdy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One base has the angled "dust-free" shelves and the other has a flat bottom with random width stock - literally cut whatever was in the shorts bin…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The slanted version has little adjustable block things that you can put wherever to store whatever:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The countertop* is more repurposed bowling alley lane. Also added the Jatoba strips so it matches the workbench
> 
> Here is the raw bowling lane - it is the thin stuff they use on the approach area:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the nails removed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And surfaced:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made 2 six foot counters (18" wide), and built each one in 2 pieces so I could run them through the power planer before gluing the 2 sides together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortuneately they still weren't flat….....flat is not easy to come by….I tried hand planing but the tearout was out of control.
> 
> Not sure I would recommend this next step, but it did work resonably well. I took the sliding table off my drum sander And fed the boards in from the outfeed side - sanding half the length at a time. The problems are sander snipe (really easy to do using this technique) and some mismatch in the middle.
> 
> The hand belt sander covered up some of these problems, and for the most part - they are pretty darn flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also built a wall cleat mount for the monitor and added a sliding keyboard tray so it should help keep the counter clear:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The computer is below the counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bench and counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said before - have a bunch of stuff I want to store on the wall - so more updates on that later:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for something totally different - check out this cool little garage sale find ($2.00). I figured I would pop the gauge out of it and use it in a project - but it's cool as is - I believe it was built in the 50's by Woodcroftery and it is stamped "Cherry".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


Jeff, that is a really good looking shop with a lot of great ideas in it for tool storage. I love the plane rack and the bowling alley wood.


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *The Wall*
> 
> This wall has been an eyesore for awhile now….during some of the shop expansions, it got repurposed a few times…
> 
> *Here is the before picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And the after picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build tool holders and such for the wall cleats - the stuff in the photo are existing things I hung up for the photo - but it's a good start.
> 
> *Some build photos….....*
> 
> *The wall* was resheeted in cheap borg ply and added four rows of wall cleats made from Maple flooring:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The bases *are Oak - really rough Oak, but it cleans up ok….I left the knots and all. All mortise and tenon and super sturdy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One base has the angled "dust-free" shelves and the other has a flat bottom with random width stock - literally cut whatever was in the shorts bin…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The slanted version has little adjustable block things that you can put wherever to store whatever:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The countertop* is more repurposed bowling alley lane. Also added the Jatoba strips so it matches the workbench
> 
> Here is the raw bowling lane - it is the thin stuff they use on the approach area:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the nails removed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And surfaced:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made 2 six foot counters (18" wide), and built each one in 2 pieces so I could run them through the power planer before gluing the 2 sides together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortuneately they still weren't flat….....flat is not easy to come by….I tried hand planing but the tearout was out of control.
> 
> Not sure I would recommend this next step, but it did work resonably well. I took the sliding table off my drum sander And fed the boards in from the outfeed side - sanding half the length at a time. The problems are sander snipe (really easy to do using this technique) and some mismatch in the middle.
> 
> The hand belt sander covered up some of these problems, and for the most part - they are pretty darn flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also built a wall cleat mount for the monitor and added a sliding keyboard tray so it should help keep the counter clear:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The computer is below the counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bench and counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said before - have a bunch of stuff I want to store on the wall - so more updates on that later:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for something totally different - check out this cool little garage sale find ($2.00). I figured I would pop the gauge out of it and use it in a project - but it's cool as is - I believe it was built in the 50's by Woodcroftery and it is stamped "Cherry".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


Hi Jeff. So you´ve been busy lately. That is a great compose counter-top.

Great job.

I love the dust-free shelves idea. Never thought about them.

Nice finding on the Barometer. That one is an aneroid barometer. A very thin metal comprising air inside, register air pressure. It measures the current atmospheric pressure in inches, which is indicated with the black arrow. The yellow arrow can be rotated. So you let coincide both arrows at certain moment. Changes in pressure will affect the black arrow only. So you can watch after ( usually in 2 or 3 hours) the change in the pressure by comparing both arrows. Usually you need to tap a couple of times the glass to make the black arrow to move. It moves very slightly. More important than knowing the current pressure, is knowing how it is changing, either rising, falling o being steady. And this is an indicator of weather changes for the next 12 /24 hours. This artifact is the single most important help (other than the eyes) for sailors for understanding what will happen with the weather.

A good summary http://www.bethandevans.com/pdf/baro.pdf


----------



## MOJOE

JL7 said:


> *The Wall*
> 
> This wall has been an eyesore for awhile now….during some of the shop expansions, it got repurposed a few times…
> 
> *Here is the before picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And the after picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build tool holders and such for the wall cleats - the stuff in the photo are existing things I hung up for the photo - but it's a good start.
> 
> *Some build photos….....*
> 
> *The wall* was resheeted in cheap borg ply and added four rows of wall cleats made from Maple flooring:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The bases *are Oak - really rough Oak, but it cleans up ok….I left the knots and all. All mortise and tenon and super sturdy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One base has the angled "dust-free" shelves and the other has a flat bottom with random width stock - literally cut whatever was in the shorts bin…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The slanted version has little adjustable block things that you can put wherever to store whatever:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The countertop* is more repurposed bowling alley lane. Also added the Jatoba strips so it matches the workbench
> 
> Here is the raw bowling lane - it is the thin stuff they use on the approach area:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the nails removed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And surfaced:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made 2 six foot counters (18" wide), and built each one in 2 pieces so I could run them through the power planer before gluing the 2 sides together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortuneately they still weren't flat….....flat is not easy to come by….I tried hand planing but the tearout was out of control.
> 
> Not sure I would recommend this next step, but it did work resonably well. I took the sliding table off my drum sander And fed the boards in from the outfeed side - sanding half the length at a time. The problems are sander snipe (really easy to do using this technique) and some mismatch in the middle.
> 
> The hand belt sander covered up some of these problems, and for the most part - they are pretty darn flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also built a wall cleat mount for the monitor and added a sliding keyboard tray so it should help keep the counter clear:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The computer is below the counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bench and counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said before - have a bunch of stuff I want to store on the wall - so more updates on that later:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for something totally different - check out this cool little garage sale find ($2.00). I figured I would pop the gauge out of it and use it in a project - but it's cool as is - I believe it was built in the 50's by Woodcroftery and it is stamped "Cherry".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


Nice work, and nice collection of planes. Countertops look first-rate!


----------



## WoodArtbyJR

JL7 said:


> *The Wall*
> 
> This wall has been an eyesore for awhile now….during some of the shop expansions, it got repurposed a few times…
> 
> *Here is the before picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And the after picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build tool holders and such for the wall cleats - the stuff in the photo are existing things I hung up for the photo - but it's a good start.
> 
> *Some build photos….....*
> 
> *The wall* was resheeted in cheap borg ply and added four rows of wall cleats made from Maple flooring:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The bases *are Oak - really rough Oak, but it cleans up ok….I left the knots and all. All mortise and tenon and super sturdy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One base has the angled "dust-free" shelves and the other has a flat bottom with random width stock - literally cut whatever was in the shorts bin…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The slanted version has little adjustable block things that you can put wherever to store whatever:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The countertop* is more repurposed bowling alley lane. Also added the Jatoba strips so it matches the workbench
> 
> Here is the raw bowling lane - it is the thin stuff they use on the approach area:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the nails removed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And surfaced:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made 2 six foot counters (18" wide), and built each one in 2 pieces so I could run them through the power planer before gluing the 2 sides together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortuneately they still weren't flat….....flat is not easy to come by….I tried hand planing but the tearout was out of control.
> 
> Not sure I would recommend this next step, but it did work resonably well. I took the sliding table off my drum sander And fed the boards in from the outfeed side - sanding half the length at a time. The problems are sander snipe (really easy to do using this technique) and some mismatch in the middle.
> 
> The hand belt sander covered up some of these problems, and for the most part - they are pretty darn flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also built a wall cleat mount for the monitor and added a sliding keyboard tray so it should help keep the counter clear:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The computer is below the counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bench and counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said before - have a bunch of stuff I want to store on the wall - so more updates on that later:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for something totally different - check out this cool little garage sale find ($2.00). I figured I would pop the gauge out of it and use it in a project - but it's cool as is - I believe it was built in the 50's by Woodcroftery and it is stamped "Cherry".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


Jeff, I was thinking you were buddies with GodofBiscuits (Jeffery) but I just looked at your buddies list and I see you are not. Jeffery just lives a couple of miles from me and when he moved here from Orange County a couple of years ago he & I became buddies. Well, he made this clock a few years back, entered it into the OC Fair and did well so he entered it into the Puyallup Fair here. The Puyallup is in the top ten in the nation for size and runs for almost 3 weeks. Here is his blog on the entry. Easier for you to read then for me to tell the story.
http://lumberjocks.com/GodofBiscuits/blog/24892
http://lumberjocks.com/GodofBiscuits/blog/25127
http://lumberjocks.com/GodofBiscuits/blog/25180
At the end of the blogs you'll see he did well.

Jim


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wall*
> 
> This wall has been an eyesore for awhile now….during some of the shop expansions, it got repurposed a few times…
> 
> *Here is the before picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And the after picture:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to build tool holders and such for the wall cleats - the stuff in the photo are existing things I hung up for the photo - but it's a good start.
> 
> *Some build photos….....*
> 
> *The wall* was resheeted in cheap borg ply and added four rows of wall cleats made from Maple flooring:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The bases *are Oak - really rough Oak, but it cleans up ok….I left the knots and all. All mortise and tenon and super sturdy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One base has the angled "dust-free" shelves and the other has a flat bottom with random width stock - literally cut whatever was in the shorts bin…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The slanted version has little adjustable block things that you can put wherever to store whatever:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The countertop* is more repurposed bowling alley lane. Also added the Jatoba strips so it matches the workbench
> 
> Here is the raw bowling lane - it is the thin stuff they use on the approach area:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And with the nails removed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And surfaced:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made 2 six foot counters (18" wide), and built each one in 2 pieces so I could run them through the power planer before gluing the 2 sides together:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortuneately they still weren't flat….....flat is not easy to come by….I tried hand planing but the tearout was out of control.
> 
> Not sure I would recommend this next step, but it did work resonably well. I took the sliding table off my drum sander And fed the boards in from the outfeed side - sanding half the length at a time. The problems are sander snipe (really easy to do using this technique) and some mismatch in the middle.
> 
> The hand belt sander covered up some of these problems, and for the most part - they are pretty darn flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also built a wall cleat mount for the monitor and added a sliding keyboard tray so it should help keep the counter clear:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The computer is below the counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the bench and counter:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said before - have a bunch of stuff I want to store on the wall - so more updates on that later:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now for something totally different - check out this cool little garage sale find ($2.00). I figured I would pop the gauge out of it and use it in a project - but it's cool as is - I believe it was built in the 50's by Woodcroftery and it is stamped "Cherry".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!
> 
> Jeff


Hey James - it is a barometer indeed - I stand corrected. It was made in West Germany and looks like a pretty good instrument - since the picture was taken a few days ago, it dropped from 30.6 to 30.1….and the forecast is for cooling temps, does that make sense?

Jumbojack - I lived in Alpine (east of San Diego) for awhile and don't recall ever seeing a basement…I like the basement, but we had some unbeliveable rain this summer and had some flooding in the precious basement, so that was not cool at all - fortunately it never got to the wood room…..

Rob - thanks for the comments - the plane storage was really a big motivator in the project. I should add that I prefer the open cabinets, even tho they get dusty…..I like visual storage. Any time I put something in a cabinet it seems to be lost on me….

Fernando - always appreciate your comments - thanks. The barometer tutorial is helpful also. According to your post - we have a change in weather coming!

MOJOE - thanks - I am kind of on a kick to get Maple work surfaces in the shop and these were done on very low budget…..didn't really mention that before, but all these updates were done for less than $100 cash and still have a bunch of raw material left 

Jim - Thanks for the heads up on the clock - looks like an amazing project and I will check it out in detail…..

Appreciate all the comments!

Jeff


----------



## JL7

*Woodshop Tour Video*

Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:






Thanks for looking.

Jeff


----------



## redryder

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Man, what a shop. You have enough tools to outfit two shops. You have some very original ideas for organization that I like. I have never seen the air tool hangers before. I see what you mean by the open concept. Everything is visible. I have tried to put a lot of my smaller items in drawers and behind shelves. The downside of course is out of sight, out of mind. Nice video tour…...........


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


redryder - thanks..but I can't take any credit for for most of the concepts. The air tool holders have been used by the Matco/Mac/SnapOn tool truck drivers for years. The open tool thing is basic Lean Concepts - credit goes to Toyota because they really started it.

I studied Lean Manufacturing techniques for many years, and my shop has a long ways to go…...but it is really about continous improvement…...

Thanks for the comments!

Jeff


----------



## sbryan55

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff, you have a pretty nice shop to play in. It looks like you have it arranged pretty well and you certainly have a nice set of tools. It looks like you have put a lot of planning and effort into making your shop effective and efficient. I would enjoy working in there. Thanks for the taking the time to film the tour. I enjoyed taking a look at your shop.


----------



## Eagle1

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Nice shop Jeff. I wish I had that much wood. Like you I am always moving my tools around, to see is I can get a better layout.

Thanks for the video.


----------



## workerinwood

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Great shop, thanks for the tour. Like you, I prefer the open concept as well.


----------



## Gregn

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Enjoyed the tour, good use of space.
I noticed that your air filtration system is mounted over your dust collector. How is that set up working for you in dust control? It seems to go against what I've heard, but its a good space saver idea.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Scott, Tim and Jack - appreciate the comments!

Greg - there are actually two jet filters in the shop, one on each side of the shop. Both were Craigslist finds, and picked them up for $75 and $50…..gotta love that! It was because I got a good deal on it that is is there at all, in other words, wouldn't be shelling out $400 to mount an air filter over the collector…...

I would not typically use the dust collector and the air filter at the same time in your example. It was mounted over the collector simply because of space - with a 7' ceiling, you need to mount these outside of your walking space! I use it for sanding projects and such where the downdraft table isn't as effective…...

Thanks for the comments..

Jeff


----------



## Rick Dennington

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


I like taking the shop tours and seeing all the different set-ups that the LJs create, and the placement of their tools and machines….good use of space in your basement. I'm not trying to be critical, buit I think you need to put a little more "life" in your video presentation….it sounded too monotone, and you almost sounded bored…..lol. Good presentation with the video camera, just "liven it up a bit".....If you're happy with your shop, you'll be happy showing it off…....


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Rick thanks for the feedback! I guess Steveinmarin has nothing to worry about here! I am proud of the shop and will liven it up on the next one…..thanks.

Jeff


----------



## Gregn

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Thanks I was wondering about that, I must of missed the other one.


----------



## Beginningwoodworker

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Nice shop, Jeff. Thanks for thee tour.


----------



## Brett1972

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Nice shop! I watched the shop evolution video too. You have made some major improvements and gained a ton of space. Thanks for showing it off!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Charles - thanks for the comments, I really appreciate it…

Brett - thanks for noticing - there was a major shift in the shop plan - had to redo the dust collection, which would normally be no big deal, but turned into a big deal…...anyone experienced that?

Appreciate all the comments!

Jeff


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hi Jeff. Seems you ´ve been busy this weekend. Lol. At least you used the tiny broom down there.

Terrific shot of the workshop. I enjoyed the video. Thanks for the update.

Yes no matter what, whenever I start any no bog deal fixing, I make the way to create an even worse matter at the end. 
Now I feel better.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Fernando - thanks for comments! Having the shop in the house, you kind of have to keep up on the dust and cleanup a little more…...but you know that.

I don't suppose the shop will ever be done, but I'm thinking it is closer to what I want…..or is it? 

Jeff


----------



## SnowyRiver

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Great shop tour Jeff. You put a lot of thought into your shop and it shows. Great work space. Thanks for posting.


----------



## mafe

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


What a wonderful shop.
You really used the space well.
I have the same lathe and like it a lot also, my workshop is really small so I have to store it away when not in use, and thhis is done easy and it takes only little space.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Wayne and Mads - thanks for the comments - really appreciate it. Like lot's of others here , I spend quite a bit ot time on shop improvements and don't suposse that will end anytime soon…..

Jeff


----------



## mafe

JL7 said:


> *Woodshop Tour Video*
> 
> Here is a little shop update - sorry for all the edits, it was way too long so had to shorten it up a bit. Always appreciate the support and comments….........hope you enjoy:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


;-) I know exactly what you talk about.


----------



## JL7

*The Craziest Idea Yet?*

I am refinishing a pine dinette set and the dust is crazy bad. I bought a Fein vac off of Craigslist 2 years ago for $25 (yes $25) but it had a non-standard 1/4 turn electrical plug on it, so couldn't test. Re-wired a standard plug and it didn't work…..BUMMER.

Tore it all apart and in the end, all that needed to be done was to re-seat one one the switches - they pop right out with a screwdriver…..

Bottom line - the Fein was a great buy - works great - the filter is fantastic and its QUIET!

Anyways, the vac has always been a great asset in the shop, but space is always an issue - so it was always a pain to use the vac for dust collection with the ROS (hooks up perfectly with the Porter Cable)........until today:










Using a bike hook, the vac hangs off the ceiling above the right side of the table saw - which is a dead space…





































And when the sander is not in play - the hose hangs here:



















Previously - the Fein was used to get the table saws clean along with the other tools in the general area and it will still do this task just fine…....

*Your shop space is 3 dimensional - any space not required for walking is fair game for tools. *

Time will tell if this works, but I think it will…........

Appreciate your comments…

Jeff


----------



## Rick Dennington

JL7 said:


> *The Craziest Idea Yet?*
> 
> I am refinishing a pine dinette set and the dust is crazy bad. I bought a Fein vac off of Craigslist 2 years ago for $25 (yes $25) but it had a non-standard 1/4 turn electrical plug on it, so couldn't test. Re-wired a standard plug and it didn't work…..BUMMER.
> 
> Tore it all apart and in the end, all that needed to be done was to re-seat one one the switches - they pop right out with a screwdriver…..
> 
> Bottom line - the Fein was a great buy - works great - the filter is fantastic and its QUIET!
> 
> Anyways, the vac has always been a great asset in the shop, but space is always an issue - so it was always a pain to use the vac for dust collection with the ROS (hooks up perfectly with the Porter Cable)........until today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a bike hook, the vac hangs off the ceiling above the right side of the table saw - which is a dead space…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when the sander is not in play - the hose hangs here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Previously - the Fein was used to get the table saws clean along with the other tools in the general area and it will still do this task just fine…....
> 
> *Your shop space is 3 dimensional - any space not required for walking is fair game for tools. *
> 
> Time will tell if this works, but I think it will…........
> 
> Appreciate your comments…
> 
> Jeff


Hi Jeff,

Good use of space in your shop…....pretty slick idea to put the Fein over-head. Just don't bump your 'noggin…..lol. You made out like a burgler when you found that deal…I don't have a Craigslist where I live…wish I did….Anyway…..good score, and looks like it the ticket for sanding…up and out of the way…


----------



## a1Jim

JL7 said:


> *The Craziest Idea Yet?*
> 
> I am refinishing a pine dinette set and the dust is crazy bad. I bought a Fein vac off of Craigslist 2 years ago for $25 (yes $25) but it had a non-standard 1/4 turn electrical plug on it, so couldn't test. Re-wired a standard plug and it didn't work…..BUMMER.
> 
> Tore it all apart and in the end, all that needed to be done was to re-seat one one the switches - they pop right out with a screwdriver…..
> 
> Bottom line - the Fein was a great buy - works great - the filter is fantastic and its QUIET!
> 
> Anyways, the vac has always been a great asset in the shop, but space is always an issue - so it was always a pain to use the vac for dust collection with the ROS (hooks up perfectly with the Porter Cable)........until today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a bike hook, the vac hangs off the ceiling above the right side of the table saw - which is a dead space…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when the sander is not in play - the hose hangs here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Previously - the Fein was used to get the table saws clean along with the other tools in the general area and it will still do this task just fine…....
> 
> *Your shop space is 3 dimensional - any space not required for walking is fair game for tools. *
> 
> Time will tell if this works, but I think it will…........
> 
> Appreciate your comments…
> 
> Jeff


What a bargain. Unique Idea,if it's where you walk you must be a little person. )


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Craziest Idea Yet?*
> 
> I am refinishing a pine dinette set and the dust is crazy bad. I bought a Fein vac off of Craigslist 2 years ago for $25 (yes $25) but it had a non-standard 1/4 turn electrical plug on it, so couldn't test. Re-wired a standard plug and it didn't work…..BUMMER.
> 
> Tore it all apart and in the end, all that needed to be done was to re-seat one one the switches - they pop right out with a screwdriver…..
> 
> Bottom line - the Fein was a great buy - works great - the filter is fantastic and its QUIET!
> 
> Anyways, the vac has always been a great asset in the shop, but space is always an issue - so it was always a pain to use the vac for dust collection with the ROS (hooks up perfectly with the Porter Cable)........until today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a bike hook, the vac hangs off the ceiling above the right side of the table saw - which is a dead space…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when the sander is not in play - the hose hangs here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Previously - the Fein was used to get the table saws clean along with the other tools in the general area and it will still do this task just fine…....
> 
> *Your shop space is 3 dimensional - any space not required for walking is fair game for tools. *
> 
> Time will tell if this works, but I think it will…........
> 
> Appreciate your comments…
> 
> Jeff


Cessna - Thanks for the post, but the rollaways are fixed…sorry. The workbench's are on a differnt wall. Almost all mechanics tools in there so they are fine where they are.

Rick - thanks for the comment - unless I climb on top of my table saw I cannot "bump my noggin"...You don't have Craigslist, but you do live live in the Ozarks….....so I think you win.

Jim - thanks for the comment - the vac is positioned so I can't walk into it but functions with my sanding table… Always appreciate the comments.

Jeff


----------



## Bearpie

JL7 said:


> *The Craziest Idea Yet?*
> 
> I am refinishing a pine dinette set and the dust is crazy bad. I bought a Fein vac off of Craigslist 2 years ago for $25 (yes $25) but it had a non-standard 1/4 turn electrical plug on it, so couldn't test. Re-wired a standard plug and it didn't work…..BUMMER.
> 
> Tore it all apart and in the end, all that needed to be done was to re-seat one one the switches - they pop right out with a screwdriver…..
> 
> Bottom line - the Fein was a great buy - works great - the filter is fantastic and its QUIET!
> 
> Anyways, the vac has always been a great asset in the shop, but space is always an issue - so it was always a pain to use the vac for dust collection with the ROS (hooks up perfectly with the Porter Cable)........until today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a bike hook, the vac hangs off the ceiling above the right side of the table saw - which is a dead space…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when the sander is not in play - the hose hangs here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Previously - the Fein was used to get the table saws clean along with the other tools in the general area and it will still do this task just fine…....
> 
> *Your shop space is 3 dimensional - any space not required for walking is fair game for tools. *
> 
> Time will tell if this works, but I think it will…........
> 
> Appreciate your comments…
> 
> Jeff


I think you would be smart to also invest in an overhead air filter, I did and it makes a world of difference! I can use my air hose to clean the shop up and it makes "tons" of dust and with the air filter on high, you can see all the dust heading for its' filter to be trapped and within 5 minutes the air is clean! Oh, I looked again and you do have one! I have that same one! Hope this will inspire someone else to do the same, your lungs will thank you!


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *The Craziest Idea Yet?*
> 
> I am refinishing a pine dinette set and the dust is crazy bad. I bought a Fein vac off of Craigslist 2 years ago for $25 (yes $25) but it had a non-standard 1/4 turn electrical plug on it, so couldn't test. Re-wired a standard plug and it didn't work…..BUMMER.
> 
> Tore it all apart and in the end, all that needed to be done was to re-seat one one the switches - they pop right out with a screwdriver…..
> 
> Bottom line - the Fein was a great buy - works great - the filter is fantastic and its QUIET!
> 
> Anyways, the vac has always been a great asset in the shop, but space is always an issue - so it was always a pain to use the vac for dust collection with the ROS (hooks up perfectly with the Porter Cable)........until today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a bike hook, the vac hangs off the ceiling above the right side of the table saw - which is a dead space…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when the sander is not in play - the hose hangs here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Previously - the Fein was used to get the table saws clean along with the other tools in the general area and it will still do this task just fine…....
> 
> *Your shop space is 3 dimensional - any space not required for walking is fair game for tools. *
> 
> Time will tell if this works, but I think it will…........
> 
> Appreciate your comments…
> 
> Jeff


Oh, so that´s was an air filter. Wow. I thought was a beer top fridge.

Good idea on the fein vac.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Craziest Idea Yet?*
> 
> I am refinishing a pine dinette set and the dust is crazy bad. I bought a Fein vac off of Craigslist 2 years ago for $25 (yes $25) but it had a non-standard 1/4 turn electrical plug on it, so couldn't test. Re-wired a standard plug and it didn't work…..BUMMER.
> 
> Tore it all apart and in the end, all that needed to be done was to re-seat one one the switches - they pop right out with a screwdriver…..
> 
> Bottom line - the Fein was a great buy - works great - the filter is fantastic and its QUIET!
> 
> Anyways, the vac has always been a great asset in the shop, but space is always an issue - so it was always a pain to use the vac for dust collection with the ROS (hooks up perfectly with the Porter Cable)........until today:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a bike hook, the vac hangs off the ceiling above the right side of the table saw - which is a dead space…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when the sander is not in play - the hose hangs here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Previously - the Fein was used to get the table saws clean along with the other tools in the general area and it will still do this task just fine…....
> 
> *Your shop space is 3 dimensional - any space not required for walking is fair game for tools. *
> 
> Time will tell if this works, but I think it will…........
> 
> Appreciate your comments…
> 
> Jeff


Hey Erwin - I have two of Jet overhead filters in the shop and I do the same airhose trick once in awhile….just don't forget the dust mask! Thanks for the post.

Fernando - no worries, we DO have a beer fridge!

I have been using the vac for a few days now (hanging from the ceiling) and it works well. The difference for me using it with the sander, is I will actually use it now, because it is easy to hook up and not in the way….....so maybe crazy, but effective….....


----------



## JL7

*Cool Wood Finds - Mostly Exotics*

A couple more cool Craiglists finds. The shop is full of new smells!

Lignum Vitae, Cocobolo, Ebony, African Blackwood, Bloodwood, Yellowheart, Red Heart, Olivewood, Cherry, Pink Ivory, B & W Ivory, Bocote, Zercote, Osage orange, Goncalo Alves, Zebrawood, Lacewood, Wenge, Spalted Maple, Bubinga and Snakewood. (Plus a few domestics in there also).

Granted, mostly smaller pieces, but cool none the less. Paid $100 (the last photo shows some stuff I traded for). I am really excited about the Ebony and Ivory becasue haven't had the opportunity to work with these yet.



















Below is Olivewood on the left:










Below is the Ebony (in wax):





































Below is a little piece of snakewood on the right and some Pink Ivory in the back left:










Thanks for looking…...

Jeff


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Cool Wood Finds - Mostly Exotics*
> 
> A couple more cool Craiglists finds. The shop is full of new smells!
> 
> Lignum Vitae, Cocobolo, Ebony, African Blackwood, Bloodwood, Yellowheart, Red Heart, Olivewood, Cherry, Pink Ivory, B & W Ivory, Bocote, Zercote, Osage orange, Goncalo Alves, Zebrawood, Lacewood, Wenge, Spalted Maple, Bubinga and Snakewood. (Plus a few domestics in there also).
> 
> Granted, mostly smaller pieces, but cool none the less. Paid $100 (the last photo shows some stuff I traded for). I am really excited about the Ebony and Ivory becasue haven't had the opportunity to work with these yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is Olivewood on the left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is the Ebony (in wax):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is a little piece of snakewood on the right and some Pink Ivory in the back left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…...
> 
> Jeff


Dang, I see a winter's worth of fun in that!
Good job, that will be great to have such a collection.

Steve


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Cool Wood Finds - Mostly Exotics*
> 
> A couple more cool Craiglists finds. The shop is full of new smells!
> 
> Lignum Vitae, Cocobolo, Ebony, African Blackwood, Bloodwood, Yellowheart, Red Heart, Olivewood, Cherry, Pink Ivory, B & W Ivory, Bocote, Zercote, Osage orange, Goncalo Alves, Zebrawood, Lacewood, Wenge, Spalted Maple, Bubinga and Snakewood. (Plus a few domestics in there also).
> 
> Granted, mostly smaller pieces, but cool none the less. Paid $100 (the last photo shows some stuff I traded for). I am really excited about the Ebony and Ivory becasue haven't had the opportunity to work with these yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is Olivewood on the left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is the Ebony (in wax):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is a little piece of snakewood on the right and some Pink Ivory in the back left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…...
> 
> Jeff


Thanks Steve - already getting some ideas….....

Jeff


----------



## GaryK

JL7 said:


> *Cool Wood Finds - Mostly Exotics*
> 
> A couple more cool Craiglists finds. The shop is full of new smells!
> 
> Lignum Vitae, Cocobolo, Ebony, African Blackwood, Bloodwood, Yellowheart, Red Heart, Olivewood, Cherry, Pink Ivory, B & W Ivory, Bocote, Zercote, Osage orange, Goncalo Alves, Zebrawood, Lacewood, Wenge, Spalted Maple, Bubinga and Snakewood. (Plus a few domestics in there also).
> 
> Granted, mostly smaller pieces, but cool none the less. Paid $100 (the last photo shows some stuff I traded for). I am really excited about the Ebony and Ivory becasue haven't had the opportunity to work with these yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is Olivewood on the left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is the Ebony (in wax):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is a little piece of snakewood on the right and some Pink Ivory in the back left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…...
> 
> Jeff


That's some great looking stuff.

I've never done anything with blackwood. Let me know who it works when you start messing with it.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Cool Wood Finds - Mostly Exotics*
> 
> A couple more cool Craiglists finds. The shop is full of new smells!
> 
> Lignum Vitae, Cocobolo, Ebony, African Blackwood, Bloodwood, Yellowheart, Red Heart, Olivewood, Cherry, Pink Ivory, B & W Ivory, Bocote, Zercote, Osage orange, Goncalo Alves, Zebrawood, Lacewood, Wenge, Spalted Maple, Bubinga and Snakewood. (Plus a few domestics in there also).
> 
> Granted, mostly smaller pieces, but cool none the less. Paid $100 (the last photo shows some stuff I traded for). I am really excited about the Ebony and Ivory becasue haven't had the opportunity to work with these yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is Olivewood on the left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is the Ebony (in wax):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is a little piece of snakewood on the right and some Pink Ivory in the back left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…...
> 
> Jeff


Thanks Gary - I will make a point to do that…....It's unique looking stuff…..............

Jeff


----------



## PurpLev

JL7 said:


> *Cool Wood Finds - Mostly Exotics*
> 
> A couple more cool Craiglists finds. The shop is full of new smells!
> 
> Lignum Vitae, Cocobolo, Ebony, African Blackwood, Bloodwood, Yellowheart, Red Heart, Olivewood, Cherry, Pink Ivory, B & W Ivory, Bocote, Zercote, Osage orange, Goncalo Alves, Zebrawood, Lacewood, Wenge, Spalted Maple, Bubinga and Snakewood. (Plus a few domestics in there also).
> 
> Granted, mostly smaller pieces, but cool none the less. Paid $100 (the last photo shows some stuff I traded for). I am really excited about the Ebony and Ivory becasue haven't had the opportunity to work with these yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is Olivewood on the left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is the Ebony (in wax):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is a little piece of snakewood on the right and some Pink Ivory in the back left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…...
> 
> Jeff


some great finds! that olive wood and ebony are gorgeous


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Cool Wood Finds - Mostly Exotics*
> 
> A couple more cool Craiglists finds. The shop is full of new smells!
> 
> Lignum Vitae, Cocobolo, Ebony, African Blackwood, Bloodwood, Yellowheart, Red Heart, Olivewood, Cherry, Pink Ivory, B & W Ivory, Bocote, Zercote, Osage orange, Goncalo Alves, Zebrawood, Lacewood, Wenge, Spalted Maple, Bubinga and Snakewood. (Plus a few domestics in there also).
> 
> Granted, mostly smaller pieces, but cool none the less. Paid $100 (the last photo shows some stuff I traded for). I am really excited about the Ebony and Ivory becasue haven't had the opportunity to work with these yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is Olivewood on the left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is the Ebony (in wax):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is a little piece of snakewood on the right and some Pink Ivory in the back left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…...
> 
> Jeff


Hopefully you´re getting some ideas already.

Jeff , that is a lot of stuff for the whole winter !


----------



## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *Cool Wood Finds - Mostly Exotics*
> 
> A couple more cool Craiglists finds. The shop is full of new smells!
> 
> Lignum Vitae, Cocobolo, Ebony, African Blackwood, Bloodwood, Yellowheart, Red Heart, Olivewood, Cherry, Pink Ivory, B & W Ivory, Bocote, Zercote, Osage orange, Goncalo Alves, Zebrawood, Lacewood, Wenge, Spalted Maple, Bubinga and Snakewood. (Plus a few domestics in there also).
> 
> Granted, mostly smaller pieces, but cool none the less. Paid $100 (the last photo shows some stuff I traded for). I am really excited about the Ebony and Ivory becasue haven't had the opportunity to work with these yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is Olivewood on the left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is the Ebony (in wax):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is a little piece of snakewood on the right and some Pink Ivory in the back left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…...
> 
> Jeff


You are the CL king, and i bow to you, and your awesome wood collection!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Cool Wood Finds - Mostly Exotics*
> 
> A couple more cool Craiglists finds. The shop is full of new smells!
> 
> Lignum Vitae, Cocobolo, Ebony, African Blackwood, Bloodwood, Yellowheart, Red Heart, Olivewood, Cherry, Pink Ivory, B & W Ivory, Bocote, Zercote, Osage orange, Goncalo Alves, Zebrawood, Lacewood, Wenge, Spalted Maple, Bubinga and Snakewood. (Plus a few domestics in there also).
> 
> Granted, mostly smaller pieces, but cool none the less. Paid $100 (the last photo shows some stuff I traded for). I am really excited about the Ebony and Ivory becasue haven't had the opportunity to work with these yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is Olivewood on the left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is the Ebony (in wax):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is a little piece of snakewood on the right and some Pink Ivory in the back left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…...
> 
> Jeff


Sharon, Fernando and Shane - thanks! The ideas are brewing….....actually….some of this wood just could be hung on the wall and be art…......

Jeff


----------



## lightweightladylefty

JL7 said:


> *Cool Wood Finds - Mostly Exotics*
> 
> A couple more cool Craiglists finds. The shop is full of new smells!
> 
> Lignum Vitae, Cocobolo, Ebony, African Blackwood, Bloodwood, Yellowheart, Red Heart, Olivewood, Cherry, Pink Ivory, B & W Ivory, Bocote, Zercote, Osage orange, Goncalo Alves, Zebrawood, Lacewood, Wenge, Spalted Maple, Bubinga and Snakewood. (Plus a few domestics in there also).
> 
> Granted, mostly smaller pieces, but cool none the less. Paid $100 (the last photo shows some stuff I traded for). I am really excited about the Ebony and Ivory becasue haven't had the opportunity to work with these yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is Olivewood on the left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is the Ebony (in wax):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is a little piece of snakewood on the right and some Pink Ivory in the back left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…...
> 
> Jeff


Jeff,

That's really a nice score! You're making us drool.

L/W


----------



## BritBoxmaker

JL7 said:


> *Cool Wood Finds - Mostly Exotics*
> 
> A couple more cool Craiglists finds. The shop is full of new smells!
> 
> Lignum Vitae, Cocobolo, Ebony, African Blackwood, Bloodwood, Yellowheart, Red Heart, Olivewood, Cherry, Pink Ivory, B & W Ivory, Bocote, Zercote, Osage orange, Goncalo Alves, Zebrawood, Lacewood, Wenge, Spalted Maple, Bubinga and Snakewood. (Plus a few domestics in there also).
> 
> Granted, mostly smaller pieces, but cool none the less. Paid $100 (the last photo shows some stuff I traded for). I am really excited about the Ebony and Ivory becasue haven't had the opportunity to work with these yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is Olivewood on the left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is the Ebony (in wax):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is a little piece of snakewood on the right and some Pink Ivory in the back left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…...
> 
> Jeff


Niiiice. Have fun.


----------



## rkoorman

JL7 said:


> *Cool Wood Finds - Mostly Exotics*
> 
> A couple more cool Craiglists finds. The shop is full of new smells!
> 
> Lignum Vitae, Cocobolo, Ebony, African Blackwood, Bloodwood, Yellowheart, Red Heart, Olivewood, Cherry, Pink Ivory, B & W Ivory, Bocote, Zercote, Osage orange, Goncalo Alves, Zebrawood, Lacewood, Wenge, Spalted Maple, Bubinga and Snakewood. (Plus a few domestics in there also).
> 
> Granted, mostly smaller pieces, but cool none the less. Paid $100 (the last photo shows some stuff I traded for). I am really excited about the Ebony and Ivory becasue haven't had the opportunity to work with these yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is Olivewood on the left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is the Ebony (in wax):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is a little piece of snakewood on the right and some Pink Ivory in the back left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…...
> 
> Jeff


Great finds….the blackwood is a joy to work with. Make sure that the dust collector is on when sanding this stuff!!!


----------



## John_G

JL7 said:


> *Cool Wood Finds - Mostly Exotics*
> 
> A couple more cool Craiglists finds. The shop is full of new smells!
> 
> Lignum Vitae, Cocobolo, Ebony, African Blackwood, Bloodwood, Yellowheart, Red Heart, Olivewood, Cherry, Pink Ivory, B & W Ivory, Bocote, Zercote, Osage orange, Goncalo Alves, Zebrawood, Lacewood, Wenge, Spalted Maple, Bubinga and Snakewood. (Plus a few domestics in there also).
> 
> Granted, mostly smaller pieces, but cool none the less. Paid $100 (the last photo shows some stuff I traded for). I am really excited about the Ebony and Ivory becasue haven't had the opportunity to work with these yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is Olivewood on the left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is the Ebony (in wax):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is a little piece of snakewood on the right and some Pink Ivory in the back left:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…...
> 
> Jeff


WOW, really 100.00 for all that….. early christams…. great find….


----------



## JL7

*Vacuum Clamping Jig on the Cheap.......*

This is really just a prototype…..........










I aquired the vacuum pump a year ago for $5.00….and shame on me for not putting it to work until now. All the parts shown are "found", not specifically fashioned for this purpose.

The motivation to build something now is I have to sand ALOT of thin parts. The idea was to make a jig to hold the thin parts over a belt sander or a sheet sander without grinding away my fingertips….










The platen is a scrap part from work, which is an aluminum plate with low durometer (hardness) silicone rubber bonded to it. Attached a little piece of UHMW plastic to the top so I could hand thread the fitting into….I don't have a 1/4" NPT tap.










The sheet sander stays put with a sand filled innertube - a Doug Stowe idea:










The pump can be turned on and off with a my foot switch:










It is truely amazing how strong the bond is when running this gadget…..I can defineately see alot of applications for this - and will be building some better jigs in the future…...very cool stuff…...

Thanks for looking.

Jeff


----------



## exelectrician

JL7 said:


> *Vacuum Clamping Jig on the Cheap.......*
> 
> This is really just a prototype…..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I aquired the vacuum pump a year ago for $5.00….and shame on me for not putting it to work until now. All the parts shown are "found", not specifically fashioned for this purpose.
> 
> The motivation to build something now is I have to sand ALOT of thin parts. The idea was to make a jig to hold the thin parts over a belt sander or a sheet sander without grinding away my fingertips….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The platen is a scrap part from work, which is an aluminum plate with low durometer (hardness) silicone rubber bonded to it. Attached a little piece of UHMW plastic to the top so I could hand thread the fitting into….I don't have a 1/4" NPT tap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sheet sander stays put with a sand filled innertube - a Doug Stowe idea:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump can be turned on and off with a my foot switch:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is truely amazing how strong the bond is when running this gadget…..I can defineately see alot of applications for this - and will be building some better jigs in the future…...very cool stuff…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


... Good thought with the foot switch, so you can have both hands on the job.


----------



## Rob_n_Wood

JL7 said:


> *Vacuum Clamping Jig on the Cheap.......*
> 
> This is really just a prototype…..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I aquired the vacuum pump a year ago for $5.00….and shame on me for not putting it to work until now. All the parts shown are "found", not specifically fashioned for this purpose.
> 
> The motivation to build something now is I have to sand ALOT of thin parts. The idea was to make a jig to hold the thin parts over a belt sander or a sheet sander without grinding away my fingertips….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The platen is a scrap part from work, which is an aluminum plate with low durometer (hardness) silicone rubber bonded to it. Attached a little piece of UHMW plastic to the top so I could hand thread the fitting into….I don't have a 1/4" NPT tap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sheet sander stays put with a sand filled innertube - a Doug Stowe idea:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump can be turned on and off with a my foot switch:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is truely amazing how strong the bond is when running this gadget…..I can defineately see alot of applications for this - and will be building some better jigs in the future…...very cool stuff…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


I saw a similar vacuum pump on sale at Harbor Freight is this worth it 
thought I could use it for vacuum forming as well 
Very clever to hold those small parts


----------



## redryder

JL7 said:


> *Vacuum Clamping Jig on the Cheap.......*
> 
> This is really just a prototype…..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I aquired the vacuum pump a year ago for $5.00….and shame on me for not putting it to work until now. All the parts shown are "found", not specifically fashioned for this purpose.
> 
> The motivation to build something now is I have to sand ALOT of thin parts. The idea was to make a jig to hold the thin parts over a belt sander or a sheet sander without grinding away my fingertips….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The platen is a scrap part from work, which is an aluminum plate with low durometer (hardness) silicone rubber bonded to it. Attached a little piece of UHMW plastic to the top so I could hand thread the fitting into….I don't have a 1/4" NPT tap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sheet sander stays put with a sand filled innertube - a Doug Stowe idea:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump can be turned on and off with a my foot switch:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is truely amazing how strong the bond is when running this gadget…..I can defineately see alot of applications for this - and will be building some better jigs in the future…...very cool stuff…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Ya, this is a clever idea….......


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Vacuum Clamping Jig on the Cheap.......*
> 
> This is really just a prototype…..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I aquired the vacuum pump a year ago for $5.00….and shame on me for not putting it to work until now. All the parts shown are "found", not specifically fashioned for this purpose.
> 
> The motivation to build something now is I have to sand ALOT of thin parts. The idea was to make a jig to hold the thin parts over a belt sander or a sheet sander without grinding away my fingertips….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The platen is a scrap part from work, which is an aluminum plate with low durometer (hardness) silicone rubber bonded to it. Attached a little piece of UHMW plastic to the top so I could hand thread the fitting into….I don't have a 1/4" NPT tap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sheet sander stays put with a sand filled innertube - a Doug Stowe idea:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump can be turned on and off with a my foot switch:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is truely amazing how strong the bond is when running this gadget…..I can defineately see alot of applications for this - and will be building some better jigs in the future…...very cool stuff…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Jeff. Really cool.

This is such a coincidence, I just ordered some parts and fittings from JoeWoodworker for vacuum clamping. I really want to try it. Main thing I wanted to get was the 1/8 inch thick sticky foam tape that can withstand a vacuum.

Please describe a bit more of your silicone rubber solution. Looks great.

Steve


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Vacuum Clamping Jig on the Cheap.......*
> 
> This is really just a prototype…..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I aquired the vacuum pump a year ago for $5.00….and shame on me for not putting it to work until now. All the parts shown are "found", not specifically fashioned for this purpose.
> 
> The motivation to build something now is I have to sand ALOT of thin parts. The idea was to make a jig to hold the thin parts over a belt sander or a sheet sander without grinding away my fingertips….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The platen is a scrap part from work, which is an aluminum plate with low durometer (hardness) silicone rubber bonded to it. Attached a little piece of UHMW plastic to the top so I could hand thread the fitting into….I don't have a 1/4" NPT tap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sheet sander stays put with a sand filled innertube - a Doug Stowe idea:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump can be turned on and off with a my foot switch:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is truely amazing how strong the bond is when running this gadget…..I can defineately see alot of applications for this - and will be building some better jigs in the future…...very cool stuff…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey - I appreciate all the comments!

Rob - There is really no end to the applications for a vacuum pump if you have the right stuff. Adding a vacuum bag would be nice, but kind of spendy, so I will wait for the right deal to come along. So it is really up to you if you want to make the investment, but I would say go for it!

Steve - 2 days ago I was on the JoeWoodworker site and had a bunch of stuff in the cart, including the tape and fitting, etc…..but then decided I would try to piece something together first before committing the $$.

The platen I found at work - it is a part used for laminating credit cards in a production machine and has a 1/8" thick layer of silicone molded to the aluminum. Not something you would likely make at home very well. I also doubt I will find any more of these as it is an obsolete design that i fould in my sample drawer at work…...

I'm pretty sure I will be ordering a roll of the JoeWoodworker tape along with some hose and fittings to build more stuff, along with a little cart or something for the pump to move it around easier…..

Jeff


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Vacuum Clamping Jig on the Cheap.......*
> 
> This is really just a prototype…..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I aquired the vacuum pump a year ago for $5.00….and shame on me for not putting it to work until now. All the parts shown are "found", not specifically fashioned for this purpose.
> 
> The motivation to build something now is I have to sand ALOT of thin parts. The idea was to make a jig to hold the thin parts over a belt sander or a sheet sander without grinding away my fingertips….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The platen is a scrap part from work, which is an aluminum plate with low durometer (hardness) silicone rubber bonded to it. Attached a little piece of UHMW plastic to the top so I could hand thread the fitting into….I don't have a 1/4" NPT tap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sheet sander stays put with a sand filled innertube - a Doug Stowe idea:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump can be turned on and off with a my foot switch:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is truely amazing how strong the bond is when running this gadget…..I can defineately see alot of applications for this - and will be building some better jigs in the future…...very cool stuff…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff I think this project sucks 
Just kidding, great idea.
The inner tube with sand in it is brilliant too..
Good stuff Jeff.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Vacuum Clamping Jig on the Cheap.......*
> 
> This is really just a prototype…..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I aquired the vacuum pump a year ago for $5.00….and shame on me for not putting it to work until now. All the parts shown are "found", not specifically fashioned for this purpose.
> 
> The motivation to build something now is I have to sand ALOT of thin parts. The idea was to make a jig to hold the thin parts over a belt sander or a sheet sander without grinding away my fingertips….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The platen is a scrap part from work, which is an aluminum plate with low durometer (hardness) silicone rubber bonded to it. Attached a little piece of UHMW plastic to the top so I could hand thread the fitting into….I don't have a 1/4" NPT tap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sheet sander stays put with a sand filled innertube - a Doug Stowe idea:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump can be turned on and off with a my foot switch:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is truely amazing how strong the bond is when running this gadget…..I can defineately see alot of applications for this - and will be building some better jigs in the future…...very cool stuff…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Thanks Dave - always happy to post a sucky project.. 

Ran the pump ALOT today and it really gets hot and stays hot for a long time…..should I be worried about this?

Jeff


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Vacuum Clamping Jig on the Cheap.......*
> 
> This is really just a prototype…..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I aquired the vacuum pump a year ago for $5.00….and shame on me for not putting it to work until now. All the parts shown are "found", not specifically fashioned for this purpose.
> 
> The motivation to build something now is I have to sand ALOT of thin parts. The idea was to make a jig to hold the thin parts over a belt sander or a sheet sander without grinding away my fingertips….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The platen is a scrap part from work, which is an aluminum plate with low durometer (hardness) silicone rubber bonded to it. Attached a little piece of UHMW plastic to the top so I could hand thread the fitting into….I don't have a 1/4" NPT tap.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> The sheet sander stays put with a sand filled innertube - a Doug Stowe idea:
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> 
> The pump can be turned on and off with a my foot switch:
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> 
> It is truely amazing how strong the bond is when running this gadget…..I can defineately see alot of applications for this - and will be building some better jigs in the future…...very cool stuff…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


I know that you only paid $5 for the pump, but can you replace it for that? I went through all this when I also found a cheap pump. I would think that it would be better for it with a regulated pressure switch. Ala JoeWoodworker. It is a lot quieter when the pump shuts down too.

You can use a shower curtain liner to make a vacuum bag for less than $10 (at least for a while).
http://lumberjocks.com/SPalm/blog/12484

Steve


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## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Vacuum Clamping Jig on the Cheap.......*
> 
> This is really just a prototype…..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I aquired the vacuum pump a year ago for $5.00….and shame on me for not putting it to work until now. All the parts shown are "found", not specifically fashioned for this purpose.
> 
> The motivation to build something now is I have to sand ALOT of thin parts. The idea was to make a jig to hold the thin parts over a belt sander or a sheet sander without grinding away my fingertips….
> 
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> 
> The platen is a scrap part from work, which is an aluminum plate with low durometer (hardness) silicone rubber bonded to it. Attached a little piece of UHMW plastic to the top so I could hand thread the fitting into….I don't have a 1/4" NPT tap.
> 
> 
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> 
> The sheet sander stays put with a sand filled innertube - a Doug Stowe idea:
> 
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> 
> The pump can be turned on and off with a my foot switch:
> 
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> 
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> 
> It is truely amazing how strong the bond is when running this gadget…..I can defineately see alot of applications for this - and will be building some better jigs in the future…...very cool stuff…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hi Jeff.

You and Steve make a good team

A $5 pump with a $10 vacuum bag. That leaves $500 for a LN plane !!

Can´t wait to see the other stuff coming Jeff


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## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Vacuum Clamping Jig on the Cheap.......*
> 
> This is really just a prototype…..........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I aquired the vacuum pump a year ago for $5.00….and shame on me for not putting it to work until now. All the parts shown are "found", not specifically fashioned for this purpose.
> 
> The motivation to build something now is I have to sand ALOT of thin parts. The idea was to make a jig to hold the thin parts over a belt sander or a sheet sander without grinding away my fingertips….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The platen is a scrap part from work, which is an aluminum plate with low durometer (hardness) silicone rubber bonded to it. Attached a little piece of UHMW plastic to the top so I could hand thread the fitting into….I don't have a 1/4" NPT tap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sheet sander stays put with a sand filled innertube - a Doug Stowe idea:
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> The pump can be turned on and off with a my foot switch:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is truely amazing how strong the bond is when running this gadget…..I can defineately see alot of applications for this - and will be building some better jigs in the future…...very cool stuff…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Steve - good point on the regulated pressure switch. So I've been doing more research since your post and it turns out I have a Gast rotary vane pump - which Joe claims are not so good for these applications. He also confirms that this pump runs real hot, so I guess my experience is expected…...

This style pump is not actually very loud, which is a plus.

Looks like around $150.00 for the EVS kit (which would be sweet) and another $75 or so to get the foot switch - so (for the moment) it seems the setup will stay simple…...appreciate the input!

Hey Fernando…...no LN plane for me, but I would like to find a deal on a medium shoulder plane…(someday)....what are you up to??

Jeff


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## JL7

*The Wall - Part 2*

I few updates made since this post: The Wall.

I did acquire some free cabinets and bolted them to the ceiling - everything else is on the french cleats. Can be also called the wall of unfinished projects as there are several mixed in there…..

A bit of "special" lumber stored under the counter…....









































































Sorry for the crappy photos - just can't get the lighting right…........

Thanks for looking.

Jeff


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## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *The Wall - Part 2*
> 
> I few updates made since this post: The Wall.
> 
> I did acquire some free cabinets and bolted them to the ceiling - everything else is on the french cleats. Can be also called the wall of unfinished projects as there are several mixed in there…..
> 
> A bit of "special" lumber stored under the counter…....
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> Sorry for the crappy photos - just can't get the lighting right…........
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Looks like a great place to spend some quality time.


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## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *The Wall - Part 2*
> 
> I few updates made since this post: The Wall.
> 
> I did acquire some free cabinets and bolted them to the ceiling - everything else is on the french cleats. Can be also called the wall of unfinished projects as there are several mixed in there…..
> 
> A bit of "special" lumber stored under the counter…....
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> 
> Sorry for the crappy photos - just can't get the lighting right…........
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Woodworkers pron. Jeff that is a wonderful bench full of neat and cool toys. Little things like the cribbage board and clock. And what is the special lumber pray-tell?
Nice post. Tag this on your shop page. I need to update mine.


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## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wall - Part 2*
> 
> I few updates made since this post: The Wall.
> 
> I did acquire some free cabinets and bolted them to the ceiling - everything else is on the french cleats. Can be also called the wall of unfinished projects as there are several mixed in there…..
> 
> A bit of "special" lumber stored under the counter…....
> 
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> 
> Sorry for the crappy photos - just can't get the lighting right…........
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Shane and Dave - Thanks…........Dave - the special wood is those pieces you pick up and like it's seeing it again for the first time…. Just some little pieces of cool wood….

And yes - I need to update the shop page sometime soon….

Jeff


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## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *The Wall - Part 2*
> 
> I few updates made since this post: The Wall.
> 
> I did acquire some free cabinets and bolted them to the ceiling - everything else is on the french cleats. Can be also called the wall of unfinished projects as there are several mixed in there…..
> 
> A bit of "special" lumber stored under the counter…....
> 
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> 
> Sorry for the crappy photos - just can't get the lighting right…........
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Jeff.
Oh to have an organized shop. I just can't make myself take the time to do it. I want it so bad.

It looks great. Thanks for the inspiration.
Steve


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## JL7

*Benchtop Clamping Frames*

This is one of those projects that was dreamt up in the middle of the night - I am still gluing up sections of reclaimed bowling alley lane (more of that story to follow) and it is always tricky to keep things straight and flat.

The first rev this morning yielded this….some Maple flooring scraps cut up to give an elevated clamping surface with minimal contact to the clamped boards. The tongue on the flooring was a natural…...just add some wax to keep the glue at bay:



















Then it occurred to me that having some clamps at the ready would help shave some presious seconds off the glue up time so added the clamp holders:










To make the clamp holders, just clamped them all together to cut the slot on the TS:



















The clamps are just below the height of the tongue:



















A couple shots in action:



















And a final shot:










Wished I'd done something like this sooner - they work pretty good…......will post some of the results of this soon…...

Thanks for looking.

Jeff


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## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Benchtop Clamping Frames*
> 
> This is one of those projects that was dreamt up in the middle of the night - I am still gluing up sections of reclaimed bowling alley lane (more of that story to follow) and it is always tricky to keep things straight and flat.
> 
> The first rev this morning yielded this….some Maple flooring scraps cut up to give an elevated clamping surface with minimal contact to the clamped boards. The tongue on the flooring was a natural…...just add some wax to keep the glue at bay:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it occurred to me that having some clamps at the ready would help shave some presious seconds off the glue up time so added the clamp holders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the clamp holders, just clamped them all together to cut the slot on the TS:
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> The clamps are just below the height of the tongue:
> 
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> 
> A couple shots in action:
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> And a final shot:
> 
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> 
> Wished I'd done something like this sooner - they work pretty good…......will post some of the results of this soon…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Totally an ingenious way to use those scraps. This would be great for those clamps I have that have a poor foot. Great stuff Jeff.


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## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *Benchtop Clamping Frames*
> 
> This is one of those projects that was dreamt up in the middle of the night - I am still gluing up sections of reclaimed bowling alley lane (more of that story to follow) and it is always tricky to keep things straight and flat.
> 
> The first rev this morning yielded this….some Maple flooring scraps cut up to give an elevated clamping surface with minimal contact to the clamped boards. The tongue on the flooring was a natural…...just add some wax to keep the glue at bay:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it occurred to me that having some clamps at the ready would help shave some presious seconds off the glue up time so added the clamp holders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the clamp holders, just clamped them all together to cut the slot on the TS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> The clamps are just below the height of the tongue:
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> A couple shots in action:
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> And a final shot:
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> 
> Wished I'd done something like this sooner - they work pretty good…......will post some of the results of this soon…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Nice idea, should make glue ups a little easier, which is always nice. I see the bench looking good too.


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## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Benchtop Clamping Frames*
> 
> This is one of those projects that was dreamt up in the middle of the night - I am still gluing up sections of reclaimed bowling alley lane (more of that story to follow) and it is always tricky to keep things straight and flat.
> 
> The first rev this morning yielded this….some Maple flooring scraps cut up to give an elevated clamping surface with minimal contact to the clamped boards. The tongue on the flooring was a natural…...just add some wax to keep the glue at bay:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it occurred to me that having some clamps at the ready would help shave some presious seconds off the glue up time so added the clamp holders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the clamp holders, just clamped them all together to cut the slot on the TS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> The clamps are just below the height of the tongue:
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> A couple shots in action:
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> And a final shot:
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> 
> Wished I'd done something like this sooner - they work pretty good…......will post some of the results of this soon…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Dave and Shane - thanks for the comments…..I did 3 glue ups today and even tho they turned out pretty good - they still weren't just right….....I'm still a newbie at this woodworking stuff, but have done quite a few glue ups…...but each one still has some challenges…...

I did an eight footer today, using little chunks of bowling lane…...this was the main inspiration for the frames…...and it turned out better than would have otherwise…..

Thanks again.

Jeff


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## BritBoxmaker

JL7 said:


> *Benchtop Clamping Frames*
> 
> This is one of those projects that was dreamt up in the middle of the night - I am still gluing up sections of reclaimed bowling alley lane (more of that story to follow) and it is always tricky to keep things straight and flat.
> 
> The first rev this morning yielded this….some Maple flooring scraps cut up to give an elevated clamping surface with minimal contact to the clamped boards. The tongue on the flooring was a natural…...just add some wax to keep the glue at bay:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it occurred to me that having some clamps at the ready would help shave some presious seconds off the glue up time so added the clamp holders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the clamp holders, just clamped them all together to cut the slot on the TS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> The clamps are just below the height of the tongue:
> 
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> A couple shots in action:
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> And a final shot:
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> 
> Wished I'd done something like this sooner - they work pretty good…......will post some of the results of this soon…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Good idea, Jeff.

Glue-ups can be fraught, even for the most experienced.


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## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Benchtop Clamping Frames*
> 
> This is one of those projects that was dreamt up in the middle of the night - I am still gluing up sections of reclaimed bowling alley lane (more of that story to follow) and it is always tricky to keep things straight and flat.
> 
> The first rev this morning yielded this….some Maple flooring scraps cut up to give an elevated clamping surface with minimal contact to the clamped boards. The tongue on the flooring was a natural…...just add some wax to keep the glue at bay:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it occurred to me that having some clamps at the ready would help shave some presious seconds off the glue up time so added the clamp holders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the clamp holders, just clamped them all together to cut the slot on the TS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> The clamps are just below the height of the tongue:
> 
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> A couple shots in action:
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> And a final shot:
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> 
> Wished I'd done something like this sooner - they work pretty good…......will post some of the results of this soon…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Very nice Jeff.
Man your are putting together a really nice shop.

Just love watching this all come together.
Steve


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## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Benchtop Clamping Frames*
> 
> This is one of those projects that was dreamt up in the middle of the night - I am still gluing up sections of reclaimed bowling alley lane (more of that story to follow) and it is always tricky to keep things straight and flat.
> 
> The first rev this morning yielded this….some Maple flooring scraps cut up to give an elevated clamping surface with minimal contact to the clamped boards. The tongue on the flooring was a natural…...just add some wax to keep the glue at bay:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it occurred to me that having some clamps at the ready would help shave some presious seconds off the glue up time so added the clamp holders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the clamp holders, just clamped them all together to cut the slot on the TS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The clamps are just below the height of the tongue:
> 
> 
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> 
> A couple shots in action:
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> And a final shot:
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> 
> Wished I'd done something like this sooner - they work pretty good…......will post some of the results of this soon…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Martyn and Steve - appreciate the comments!

Jeff


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## SASmith

JL7 said:


> *Benchtop Clamping Frames*
> 
> This is one of those projects that was dreamt up in the middle of the night - I am still gluing up sections of reclaimed bowling alley lane (more of that story to follow) and it is always tricky to keep things straight and flat.
> 
> The first rev this morning yielded this….some Maple flooring scraps cut up to give an elevated clamping surface with minimal contact to the clamped boards. The tongue on the flooring was a natural…...just add some wax to keep the glue at bay:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it occurred to me that having some clamps at the ready would help shave some presious seconds off the glue up time so added the clamp holders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the clamp holders, just clamped them all together to cut the slot on the TS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The clamps are just below the height of the tongue:
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> A couple shots in action:
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> And a final shot:
> 
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> 
> 
> Wished I'd done something like this sooner - they work pretty good…......will post some of the results of this soon…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Clever solution.
Anything that makes a glue up quicker/easier is a plus.
Thanks for sharing.


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## cannondale

JL7 said:


> *Benchtop Clamping Frames*
> 
> This is one of those projects that was dreamt up in the middle of the night - I am still gluing up sections of reclaimed bowling alley lane (more of that story to follow) and it is always tricky to keep things straight and flat.
> 
> The first rev this morning yielded this….some Maple flooring scraps cut up to give an elevated clamping surface with minimal contact to the clamped boards. The tongue on the flooring was a natural…...just add some wax to keep the glue at bay:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it occurred to me that having some clamps at the ready would help shave some presious seconds off the glue up time so added the clamp holders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the clamp holders, just clamped them all together to cut the slot on the TS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The clamps are just below the height of the tongue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple shots in action:
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a final shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wished I'd done something like this sooner - they work pretty good…......will post some of the results of this soon…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Great idea! I think I can use this. Thanks P.S Nice work bench !!!!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Benchtop Clamping Frames*
> 
> This is one of those projects that was dreamt up in the middle of the night - I am still gluing up sections of reclaimed bowling alley lane (more of that story to follow) and it is always tricky to keep things straight and flat.
> 
> The first rev this morning yielded this….some Maple flooring scraps cut up to give an elevated clamping surface with minimal contact to the clamped boards. The tongue on the flooring was a natural…...just add some wax to keep the glue at bay:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it occurred to me that having some clamps at the ready would help shave some presious seconds off the glue up time so added the clamp holders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the clamp holders, just clamped them all together to cut the slot on the TS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The clamps are just below the height of the tongue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple shots in action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a final shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wished I'd done something like this sooner - they work pretty good…......will post some of the results of this soon…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Scott and Greg - really appreciate it! Greg, the bench project keeps getting put on hold, but it will be finished someday! Thanks…..

Jeff


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *Benchtop Clamping Frames*
> 
> This is one of those projects that was dreamt up in the middle of the night - I am still gluing up sections of reclaimed bowling alley lane (more of that story to follow) and it is always tricky to keep things straight and flat.
> 
> The first rev this morning yielded this….some Maple flooring scraps cut up to give an elevated clamping surface with minimal contact to the clamped boards. The tongue on the flooring was a natural…...just add some wax to keep the glue at bay:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it occurred to me that having some clamps at the ready would help shave some presious seconds off the glue up time so added the clamp holders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make the clamp holders, just clamped them all together to cut the slot on the TS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The clamps are just below the height of the tongue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple shots in action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a final shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wished I'd done something like this sooner - they work pretty good…......will post some of the results of this soon…...
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


So, what you are saying is: The "Bench" has been benched!


----------



## JL7

*Birdseye Score!*

I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..

This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............

Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….

All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).

I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….




























The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...










On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....










Thanks for looking.

Jeff


----------



## patron

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


what a good score

nice saw table too


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## getlostinwood

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


pure envy


----------



## davekennedy

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Looks pretty good. Looking forward to seeing it completed.


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff what a find, I know you will put to a very good use. Man curly birds eye. *Get that stuff in side!* You make me nervous. Stick it under your bed, anywhere, somewhere please.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Dave - it's in the garage - the CAR is outside….I do have a spare bedroom tho, so you got me thinking…....

Thanks all for the comments.

Jeff


----------



## deleteme

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Get it a quilt and let it sleep on your couch! I mean, isn't that what friends are for? LOL! Great score, keep us posted on what you create with it…


----------



## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff? Seriously? The rich getting richer! Nice score, it looks great. Look forward to seeing it in some projects. I love BE maple.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Paul - don't give me any ideas…..I may just do that…......thanks man.

Shane - I have to agree on the BE maple…..if I had to pick only one wood, It would have to be maple for me - so much character, it works well, looks good…...and the shop smells like a pancake breakfast…...appreciate the comments..

Jeff


----------



## chrisstef

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


PDS - that was snot blowing funny.

JL7 - Thats gorgeous lumber, ive never put my hands on a piece of lumber like that. Id marry 'er for sure.


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Seems you´ve got a great pick up. THe shop is getting fancier each day. wow.


----------



## Rob_n_Wood

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


oh My can you honestly sleep at night with visions of Birds Eye maple in your head 
you hit the mother load Great deal. Now you have a great responsibility to find the 
perfect project(s) for it
The wood is gorgeous


----------



## craftsman on the lake

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


My favorite wood. Nice going!


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff, That is absolutely beautiful wood! I wouldn't go near that with a planer as tearout is inevitable and would break my heart. The drum sander is slower but won't destroy that gorgeous lumber. Can't wait to see what you make with that.


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Jeff, I was rolling the dice, and look what I found


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Fernando - I'm somebody now!

Thanks for all the comments - and gfadvm, I will be using the drum sander - thanks!

Jeff


----------



## superstretch

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Gorgeous wood


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Dang that is sweet.

I need to find me some semi retired grandmothers that are getting out of the furniture making business. I mean, they are all over the place.

Good score buddy,
Steve


----------



## Kentuk55

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Holy mackeral!! wow! I think you just hit the wood lottery.. very good haul


----------



## HalDougherty

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Jeff,

Finish the drum sander before you tackle your birds eye maple. Planner chipout can be bad with figured maple. You have some beautiful material to work with. I'm looking forward to seeing what you make from it.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hey Fernando - back at at you….....No rolling the dice, just landed on this screen…........today:










So cool…................

Be good my friend….....

Jeff


----------



## RibsBrisket4me

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Wow, what a score!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Thanks Todd…......

All the Maple is now moved into the wood room…...in the process I found this natural edge of the birdseye….....they are shaped like little craters on the moon…....no wonder they wreck havoc with the planer…..



















Thanks for all the comments…...........

Jeff


----------



## Mosquito

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Man what a score! I love maple…

On another note, NO snow is right… I was quite let down by this winter (being an avid snowmobiler).... and was even a little mad that I was driving home from work in *RAIN* the other day (in February, in MN… not cool)


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Yep Mosquito - Drove home in the rain the other day….....Weird winter here - Welcome to Lumberjocks. Thanks for the comments….....

Jeff


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


Hi Jeff, thank you for the record. I was also willing to be someone.

A proof of my efforts in also scoring a piece of lumber. Take a look at my one dollar BF of this 40 yr old oak !! I bought to an old lady 50 bf.

Here is a shot 5 feet apart.










And here a close up










I think I´m getting 5 BF out of the 50

What a deal !!


----------



## woodymays

JL7 said:


> *Birdseye Score!*
> 
> I know I shouldn't have…...but man what a deal…..I can almost here Shane's post already…..
> 
> This is furniture grade birdseye and curly maple and I think maybe some curly birdseye…............
> 
> Bought it from a semi retired grandmother that is getting out of the furniture making business…....been stored indoors for the past 20 years. A couple of the boards are planned, otherwise all rough - I need to change the planer knives before even thinking about this stuff….
> 
> All was had for 15¢ to 25¢ on the dollar (depending on where you shop).
> 
> I guess the car stays outside for now…...lucky we got NO snow this year….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 piles on the right are all birdseye - the pile on the left is curly. A couple pieces of 8/4, 6/4 and 5/4 as well…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note….here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on…a common table for the miter saw, RAS (traded with my brother) and the drum sander…...........long ways to go….....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff


How lucky can you be


----------



## JL7

*Like taking a picture in the mirror.....*

By popular demand - I updated my shop page today here ..and since it refers back to this blog - please be careful so you don't get sucked into the vortex…....

Thanks for looking.

Jeff

Sorry - I fixed the broken link….....oops.


----------



## Eagle1

JL7 said:


> *Like taking a picture in the mirror.....*
> 
> By popular demand - I updated my shop page today here ..and since it refers back to this blog - please be careful so you don't get sucked into the vortex…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff
> 
> Sorry - I fixed the broken link….....oops.


Nice shop Jeff. Looking at your duct collection system, I might be able to do what I need to do with mine.

The videos were very cool.

Thanks for sharing:

Tim


----------



## Martyroc

JL7 said:


> *Like taking a picture in the mirror.....*
> 
> By popular demand - I updated my shop page today here ..and since it refers back to this blog - please be careful so you don't get sucked into the vortex…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff
> 
> Sorry - I fixed the broken link….....oops.


Looks great, if I had that kind of space, I would try for a similar setup. I expect to see some nice projects coming out of this new shop.


----------



## rowdy

JL7 said:


> *Like taking a picture in the mirror.....*
> 
> By popular demand - I updated my shop page today here ..and since it refers back to this blog - please be careful so you don't get sucked into the vortex…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff
> 
> Sorry - I fixed the broken link….....oops.


I repeat, icon! LOL!


----------



## stefang

JL7 said:


> *Like taking a picture in the mirror.....*
> 
> By popular demand - I updated my shop page today here ..and since it refers back to this blog - please be careful so you don't get sucked into the vortex…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff
> 
> Sorry - I fixed the broken link….....oops.


The whole shop looks so well organized and equipped. I love your wood storage area. wish I had space for something like that. I also liked your sander storage a lot. It's always nice to see someone else's shop, and get some inspiration.


----------



## stefang

JL7 said:


> *Like taking a picture in the mirror.....*
> 
> By popular demand - I updated my shop page today here ..and since it refers back to this blog - please be careful so you don't get sucked into the vortex…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> Jeff
> 
> Sorry - I fixed the broken link….....oops.


T


----------



## JL7

*Copy Cat.........*

I am stuck between projects again…..tons of things I want to do, but can't pull the trigger on any of them…..so a couple of little things done while my brain adjusts…

*1. Router Plane*

I have wanted a router plane for quite awhile and have been checking eBay here and there…...I took a chance a few days ago and bought a Stanley #71 along with a bonus #152 Stanley spokeshave…...$30 plus $8 for shipping.

Here are the before pictures:














































At this point I checked this post from SuperDave - and how cool he restored his #71. Dave also helped me identify my #71 as a Type 9, which puts it at 1916-1924. Thanks Dave.

He used metallic paint which looked nice and it turned out I had a rattle can of metallic paint on the shelf…(not sure why?) and it was meant to be…......the after shots:




























The plane is missing the front guide thing but it still works good….....And only came with the 1/4" blade.

And the #152 with a bit of scrubbing:




























*2. Zero Clearance Insert for the Mitersaw:*

I just tired of the crappy stock insert - this one is made of IPE:



















*3. French Cleat Clamp System:*

Nothing new here - just keep collecting clamps and built some simple french cleat clamp holders using dimensional lumber and some pocket screws:




























Thanks for looking!


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *Copy Cat.........*
> 
> I am stuck between projects again…..tons of things I want to do, but can't pull the trigger on any of them…..so a couple of little things done while my brain adjusts…
> 
> *1. Router Plane*
> 
> I have wanted a router plane for quite awhile and have been checking eBay here and there…...I took a chance a few days ago and bought a Stanley #71 along with a bonus #152 Stanley spokeshave…...$30 plus $8 for shipping.
> 
> Here are the before pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I checked this post from SuperDave - and how cool he restored his #71. Dave also helped me identify my #71 as a Type 9, which puts it at 1916-1924. Thanks Dave.
> 
> He used metallic paint which looked nice and it turned out I had a rattle can of metallic paint on the shelf…(not sure why?) and it was meant to be…......the after shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane is missing the front guide thing but it still works good….....And only came with the 1/4" blade.
> 
> And the #152 with a bit of scrubbing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *2. Zero Clearance Insert for the Mitersaw:*
> 
> I just tired of the crappy stock insert - this one is made of IPE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3. French Cleat Clamp System:*
> 
> Nothing new here - just keep collecting clamps and built some simple french cleat clamp holders using dimensional lumber and some pocket screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


The #71 came out great, along with the spokeshave. A great $38.00 investment!!!

The ZCI & Clamp racks came out great also. Shop upgrades are always well worth the effort.

Now you just have to find & do a project using the #71, #152, Miter saw & clamps. Eagerly awaiting the blog & project post!!!


----------



## Rob_n_Wood

JL7 said:


> *Copy Cat.........*
> 
> I am stuck between projects again…..tons of things I want to do, but can't pull the trigger on any of them…..so a couple of little things done while my brain adjusts…
> 
> *1. Router Plane*
> 
> I have wanted a router plane for quite awhile and have been checking eBay here and there…...I took a chance a few days ago and bought a Stanley #71 along with a bonus #152 Stanley spokeshave…...$30 plus $8 for shipping.
> 
> Here are the before pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I checked this post from SuperDave - and how cool he restored his #71. Dave also helped me identify my #71 as a Type 9, which puts it at 1916-1924. Thanks Dave.
> 
> He used metallic paint which looked nice and it turned out I had a rattle can of metallic paint on the shelf…(not sure why?) and it was meant to be…......the after shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane is missing the front guide thing but it still works good….....And only came with the 1/4" blade.
> 
> And the #152 with a bit of scrubbing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *2. Zero Clearance Insert for the Mitersaw:*
> 
> I just tired of the crappy stock insert - this one is made of IPE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3. French Cleat Clamp System:*
> 
> Nothing new here - just keep collecting clamps and built some simple french cleat clamp holders using dimensional lumber and some pocket screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Nice job with clamp rack 
I really do like the zero clearance insert for MS
Nice job


----------



## workahalick

JL7 said:


> *Copy Cat.........*
> 
> I am stuck between projects again…..tons of things I want to do, but can't pull the trigger on any of them…..so a couple of little things done while my brain adjusts…
> 
> *1. Router Plane*
> 
> I have wanted a router plane for quite awhile and have been checking eBay here and there…...I took a chance a few days ago and bought a Stanley #71 along with a bonus #152 Stanley spokeshave…...$30 plus $8 for shipping.
> 
> Here are the before pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I checked this post from SuperDave - and how cool he restored his #71. Dave also helped me identify my #71 as a Type 9, which puts it at 1916-1924. Thanks Dave.
> 
> He used metallic paint which looked nice and it turned out I had a rattle can of metallic paint on the shelf…(not sure why?) and it was meant to be…......the after shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane is missing the front guide thing but it still works good….....And only came with the 1/4" blade.
> 
> And the #152 with a bit of scrubbing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *2. Zero Clearance Insert for the Mitersaw:*
> 
> I just tired of the crappy stock insert - this one is made of IPE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3. French Cleat Clamp System:*
> 
> Nothing new here - just keep collecting clamps and built some simple french cleat clamp holders using dimensional lumber and some pocket screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Looks like I need U to organize my shop like yours. Ha








I don't any more than put away the tool and another job comes in , and out they come , AGAIN !
I'm a full time furniture builder and repairman.
I found lot of my tool the way U are too. Keep it UP ! Saves money .


----------



## 559dustdesigns

JL7 said:


> *Copy Cat.........*
> 
> I am stuck between projects again…..tons of things I want to do, but can't pull the trigger on any of them…..so a couple of little things done while my brain adjusts…
> 
> *1. Router Plane*
> 
> I have wanted a router plane for quite awhile and have been checking eBay here and there…...I took a chance a few days ago and bought a Stanley #71 along with a bonus #152 Stanley spokeshave…...$30 plus $8 for shipping.
> 
> Here are the before pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I checked this post from SuperDave - and how cool he restored his #71. Dave also helped me identify my #71 as a Type 9, which puts it at 1916-1924. Thanks Dave.
> 
> He used metallic paint which looked nice and it turned out I had a rattle can of metallic paint on the shelf…(not sure why?) and it was meant to be…......the after shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane is missing the front guide thing but it still works good….....And only came with the 1/4" blade.
> 
> And the #152 with a bit of scrubbing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *2. Zero Clearance Insert for the Mitersaw:*
> 
> I just tired of the crappy stock insert - this one is made of IPE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3. French Cleat Clamp System:*
> 
> Nothing new here - just keep collecting clamps and built some simple french cleat clamp holders using dimensional lumber and some pocket screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Nice work Jeff that router plane looks better then new.


----------



## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *Copy Cat.........*
> 
> I am stuck between projects again…..tons of things I want to do, but can't pull the trigger on any of them…..so a couple of little things done while my brain adjusts…
> 
> *1. Router Plane*
> 
> I have wanted a router plane for quite awhile and have been checking eBay here and there…...I took a chance a few days ago and bought a Stanley #71 along with a bonus #152 Stanley spokeshave…...$30 plus $8 for shipping.
> 
> Here are the before pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I checked this post from SuperDave - and how cool he restored his #71. Dave also helped me identify my #71 as a Type 9, which puts it at 1916-1924. Thanks Dave.
> 
> He used metallic paint which looked nice and it turned out I had a rattle can of metallic paint on the shelf…(not sure why?) and it was meant to be…......the after shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane is missing the front guide thing but it still works good….....And only came with the 1/4" blade.
> 
> And the #152 with a bit of scrubbing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *2. Zero Clearance Insert for the Mitersaw:*
> 
> I just tired of the crappy stock insert - this one is made of IPE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3. French Cleat Clamp System:*
> 
> Nothing new here - just keep collecting clamps and built some simple french cleat clamp holders using dimensional lumber and some pocket screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Looking good Jeff. The 71 is looking sweet, have to get me one some day.


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Copy Cat.........*
> 
> I am stuck between projects again…..tons of things I want to do, but can't pull the trigger on any of them…..so a couple of little things done while my brain adjusts…
> 
> *1. Router Plane*
> 
> I have wanted a router plane for quite awhile and have been checking eBay here and there…...I took a chance a few days ago and bought a Stanley #71 along with a bonus #152 Stanley spokeshave…...$30 plus $8 for shipping.
> 
> Here are the before pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I checked this post from SuperDave - and how cool he restored his #71. Dave also helped me identify my #71 as a Type 9, which puts it at 1916-1924. Thanks Dave.
> 
> He used metallic paint which looked nice and it turned out I had a rattle can of metallic paint on the shelf…(not sure why?) and it was meant to be…......the after shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane is missing the front guide thing but it still works good….....And only came with the 1/4" blade.
> 
> And the #152 with a bit of scrubbing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *2. Zero Clearance Insert for the Mitersaw:*
> 
> I just tired of the crappy stock insert - this one is made of IPE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3. French Cleat Clamp System:*
> 
> Nothing new here - just keep collecting clamps and built some simple french cleat clamp holders using dimensional lumber and some pocket screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Jeff, I am in the same boat. I just cant get started on anything. I looked up at my plane till and the thought of sharpening all the irons and rubbing down each plane crossed my mind. That was all it did was cross my mind. Yesterday I was on the bandsaw when, you know, it has happened to all of us, pow, the blade gave way and Dave left the chair - room - and went into orbit.
Thanks for giving us a glimpse at what you are doing.

Jeff the refurbish on the plane and spoke shave are wonderfully done. You have placed them in a condition that you will want to pick it up and use it. Then think of ways to use them. Now there are a couple of Stanley's that areback in service. Very nice.

I am collecting parts and pieces for a music box for the wife and I can not get even a basic design that I like. I think tomorrow I need to get on my bike and go for a good ride to clear my head.

The ZCI and clamp racks are a good way to spend the time when you have shop block.


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Copy Cat.........*
> 
> I am stuck between projects again…..tons of things I want to do, but can't pull the trigger on any of them…..so a couple of little things done while my brain adjusts…
> 
> *1. Router Plane*
> 
> I have wanted a router plane for quite awhile and have been checking eBay here and there…...I took a chance a few days ago and bought a Stanley #71 along with a bonus #152 Stanley spokeshave…...$30 plus $8 for shipping.
> 
> Here are the before pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I checked this post from SuperDave - and how cool he restored his #71. Dave also helped me identify my #71 as a Type 9, which puts it at 1916-1924. Thanks Dave.
> 
> He used metallic paint which looked nice and it turned out I had a rattle can of metallic paint on the shelf…(not sure why?) and it was meant to be…......the after shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane is missing the front guide thing but it still works good….....And only came with the 1/4" blade.
> 
> And the #152 with a bit of scrubbing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *2. Zero Clearance Insert for the Mitersaw:*
> 
> I just tired of the crappy stock insert - this one is made of IPE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3. French Cleat Clamp System:*
> 
> Nothing new here - just keep collecting clamps and built some simple french cleat clamp holders using dimensional lumber and some pocket screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Wow. I wish I could complete projects like you do.
Thanks for the inspiration for the shop, I neec some right now.

Steve


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Copy Cat.........*
> 
> I am stuck between projects again…..tons of things I want to do, but can't pull the trigger on any of them…..so a couple of little things done while my brain adjusts…
> 
> *1. Router Plane*
> 
> I have wanted a router plane for quite awhile and have been checking eBay here and there…...I took a chance a few days ago and bought a Stanley #71 along with a bonus #152 Stanley spokeshave…...$30 plus $8 for shipping.
> 
> Here are the before pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I checked this post from SuperDave - and how cool he restored his #71. Dave also helped me identify my #71 as a Type 9, which puts it at 1916-1924. Thanks Dave.
> 
> He used metallic paint which looked nice and it turned out I had a rattle can of metallic paint on the shelf…(not sure why?) and it was meant to be…......the after shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane is missing the front guide thing but it still works good….....And only came with the 1/4" blade.
> 
> And the #152 with a bit of scrubbing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *2. Zero Clearance Insert for the Mitersaw:*
> 
> I just tired of the crappy stock insert - this one is made of IPE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3. French Cleat Clamp System:*
> 
> Nothing new here - just keep collecting clamps and built some simple french cleat clamp holders using dimensional lumber and some pocket screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Hi Jeff. So you are preparing yourself for unplugged sessions. Looks great to me.

I do also wish completing projects as you do. My parallel and pipe clamps never fall. They just lie in the floor. Need to do something


----------



## sb194

JL7 said:


> *Copy Cat.........*
> 
> I am stuck between projects again…..tons of things I want to do, but can't pull the trigger on any of them…..so a couple of little things done while my brain adjusts…
> 
> *1. Router Plane*
> 
> I have wanted a router plane for quite awhile and have been checking eBay here and there…...I took a chance a few days ago and bought a Stanley #71 along with a bonus #152 Stanley spokeshave…...$30 plus $8 for shipping.
> 
> Here are the before pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I checked this post from SuperDave - and how cool he restored his #71. Dave also helped me identify my #71 as a Type 9, which puts it at 1916-1924. Thanks Dave.
> 
> He used metallic paint which looked nice and it turned out I had a rattle can of metallic paint on the shelf…(not sure why?) and it was meant to be…......the after shots:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plane is missing the front guide thing but it still works good….....And only came with the 1/4" blade.
> 
> And the #152 with a bit of scrubbing:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *2. Zero Clearance Insert for the Mitersaw:*
> 
> I just tired of the crappy stock insert - this one is made of IPE:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3. French Cleat Clamp System:*
> 
> Nothing new here - just keep collecting clamps and built some simple french cleat clamp holders using dimensional lumber and some pocket screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking!


Nice job Jeff. I need to get out in the shop and start getting some of the "small" things done.


----------



## JL7

*Dust Collector Mod*

Modded the single stage collector into a dual stage collector using to the super dust deputy from Oneida - Decided to to relocate the motor and blower above the cyclone and minimize the runs…..also hard mounted the cyclone under the blower and built a riser to bring the barrel into the cyclone. The barrel was a freebie from work.










Worked on this all day and not much scientific data to report - but here is a video of the first run, using a bucket of super fine dust - Some dust did make it to the second bag - see photos after the video…..

Here is the dust that made it into the second bag:










More than I would like but I will continue to tweak the system….

Since the cyclone is hard mounted above, I have to bring the barrel up to the cyclone:




























The lift is hinged in the back and will lift the barrel straight up into the cyclone. Use another short 2×4 to lock the barrel tight up to the cyclone…

Some other photos from the build:





































I'll shorten up the flex tube runs after a few days of proving the layout…..

Thanks for looking.

*UPDATE *- Newer photos posted here.


----------



## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *Dust Collector Mod*
> 
> Modded the single stage collector into a dual stage collector using to the super dust deputy from Oneida - Decided to to relocate the motor and blower above the cyclone and minimize the runs…..also hard mounted the cyclone under the blower and built a riser to bring the barrel into the cyclone. The barrel was a freebie from work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked on this all day and not much scientific data to report - but here is a video of the first run, using a bucket of super fine dust - Some dust did make it to the second bag - see photos after the video…..
> 
> Here is the dust that made it into the second bag:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More than I would like but I will continue to tweak the system….
> 
> Since the cyclone is hard mounted above, I have to bring the barrel up to the cyclone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lift is hinged in the back and will lift the barrel straight up into the cyclone. Use another short 2×4 to lock the barrel tight up to the cyclone…
> 
> Some other photos from the build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll shorten up the flex tube runs after a few days of proving the layout…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> *UPDATE *- Newer photos posted here.


Whoa Jeff, kinda has a nice but yet mad scientist look to it. Pretty cool, hopefully you can get it dialed in the way you want.


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Dust Collector Mod*
> 
> Modded the single stage collector into a dual stage collector using to the super dust deputy from Oneida - Decided to to relocate the motor and blower above the cyclone and minimize the runs…..also hard mounted the cyclone under the blower and built a riser to bring the barrel into the cyclone. The barrel was a freebie from work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked on this all day and not much scientific data to report - but here is a video of the first run, using a bucket of super fine dust - Some dust did make it to the second bag - see photos after the video…..
> 
> Here is the dust that made it into the second bag:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More than I would like but I will continue to tweak the system….
> 
> Since the cyclone is hard mounted above, I have to bring the barrel up to the cyclone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lift is hinged in the back and will lift the barrel straight up into the cyclone. Use another short 2×4 to lock the barrel tight up to the cyclone…
> 
> Some other photos from the build:
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll shorten up the flex tube runs after a few days of proving the layout…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> *UPDATE *- Newer photos posted here.


Dude that sucks! I mean it really sucks well. I like the barrel raising contraption as much as the system. Nice work Jeff, she is a beauty. Well done. 
I can just see Safety Cat sleeping on it while its running.
Great job.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Dust Collector Mod*
> 
> Modded the single stage collector into a dual stage collector using to the super dust deputy from Oneida - Decided to to relocate the motor and blower above the cyclone and minimize the runs…..also hard mounted the cyclone under the blower and built a riser to bring the barrel into the cyclone. The barrel was a freebie from work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked on this all day and not much scientific data to report - but here is a video of the first run, using a bucket of super fine dust - Some dust did make it to the second bag - see photos after the video…..
> 
> Here is the dust that made it into the second bag:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More than I would like but I will continue to tweak the system….
> 
> Since the cyclone is hard mounted above, I have to bring the barrel up to the cyclone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lift is hinged in the back and will lift the barrel straight up into the cyclone. Use another short 2×4 to lock the barrel tight up to the cyclone…
> 
> Some other photos from the build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll shorten up the flex tube runs after a few days of proving the layout…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> *UPDATE *- Newer photos posted here.


Shane - will do for sure…..thanks

Dave - the barrel raising contraption took most of the (stare motionless) time….and despite the video, it works pretty good.

I hope safety cat doesn't get to close to the inlet tho…...rrrrreeeooowww…......


----------



## jgreiner

JL7 said:


> *Dust Collector Mod*
> 
> Modded the single stage collector into a dual stage collector using to the super dust deputy from Oneida - Decided to to relocate the motor and blower above the cyclone and minimize the runs…..also hard mounted the cyclone under the blower and built a riser to bring the barrel into the cyclone. The barrel was a freebie from work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked on this all day and not much scientific data to report - but here is a video of the first run, using a bucket of super fine dust - Some dust did make it to the second bag - see photos after the video…..
> 
> Here is the dust that made it into the second bag:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More than I would like but I will continue to tweak the system….
> 
> Since the cyclone is hard mounted above, I have to bring the barrel up to the cyclone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lift is hinged in the back and will lift the barrel straight up into the cyclone. Use another short 2×4 to lock the barrel tight up to the cyclone…
> 
> Some other photos from the build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll shorten up the flex tube runs after a few days of proving the layout…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> *UPDATE *- Newer photos posted here.


Really Nice, 
Do you run the 5'' out if so where do you get the 5'' piping? or do you drop it down to 4''?


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Dust Collector Mod*
> 
> Modded the single stage collector into a dual stage collector using to the super dust deputy from Oneida - Decided to to relocate the motor and blower above the cyclone and minimize the runs…..also hard mounted the cyclone under the blower and built a riser to bring the barrel into the cyclone. The barrel was a freebie from work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked on this all day and not much scientific data to report - but here is a video of the first run, using a bucket of super fine dust - Some dust did make it to the second bag - see photos after the video…..
> 
> Here is the dust that made it into the second bag:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More than I would like but I will continue to tweak the system….
> 
> Since the cyclone is hard mounted above, I have to bring the barrel up to the cyclone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lift is hinged in the back and will lift the barrel straight up into the cyclone. Use another short 2×4 to lock the barrel tight up to the cyclone…
> 
> Some other photos from the build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll shorten up the flex tube runs after a few days of proving the layout…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> *UPDATE *- Newer photos posted here.


Thanks Jeremy - the 5" runs up to the ceiling then it's 4" PVC. My main dust run is up in the floor joists and it also goes under the steel header that holds up the floor, so 4" is the max for now…......


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Dust Collector Mod*
> 
> Modded the single stage collector into a dual stage collector using to the super dust deputy from Oneida - Decided to to relocate the motor and blower above the cyclone and minimize the runs…..also hard mounted the cyclone under the blower and built a riser to bring the barrel into the cyclone. The barrel was a freebie from work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked on this all day and not much scientific data to report - but here is a video of the first run, using a bucket of super fine dust - Some dust did make it to the second bag - see photos after the video…..
> 
> Here is the dust that made it into the second bag:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More than I would like but I will continue to tweak the system….
> 
> Since the cyclone is hard mounted above, I have to bring the barrel up to the cyclone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lift is hinged in the back and will lift the barrel straight up into the cyclone. Use another short 2×4 to lock the barrel tight up to the cyclone…
> 
> Some other photos from the build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll shorten up the flex tube runs after a few days of proving the layout…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> *UPDATE *- Newer photos posted here.


Seems a better set up Jeff.

I like the hidden dovetails of the lift mechanism. WOrks fine.


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Dust Collector Mod*
> 
> Modded the single stage collector into a dual stage collector using to the super dust deputy from Oneida - Decided to to relocate the motor and blower above the cyclone and minimize the runs…..also hard mounted the cyclone under the blower and built a riser to bring the barrel into the cyclone. The barrel was a freebie from work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked on this all day and not much scientific data to report - but here is a video of the first run, using a bucket of super fine dust - Some dust did make it to the second bag - see photos after the video…..
> 
> Here is the dust that made it into the second bag:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More than I would like but I will continue to tweak the system….
> 
> Since the cyclone is hard mounted above, I have to bring the barrel up to the cyclone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lift is hinged in the back and will lift the barrel straight up into the cyclone. Use another short 2×4 to lock the barrel tight up to the cyclone…
> 
> Some other photos from the build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll shorten up the flex tube runs after a few days of proving the layout…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> *UPDATE *- Newer photos posted here.


Hey Jeff, that is really nice. Some honest fiddling going on to get this installed. Good for you.
I hope you are not moving anytime soon.

Steve


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Dust Collector Mod*
> 
> Modded the single stage collector into a dual stage collector using to the super dust deputy from Oneida - Decided to to relocate the motor and blower above the cyclone and minimize the runs…..also hard mounted the cyclone under the blower and built a riser to bring the barrel into the cyclone. The barrel was a freebie from work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked on this all day and not much scientific data to report - but here is a video of the first run, using a bucket of super fine dust - Some dust did make it to the second bag - see photos after the video…..
> 
> Here is the dust that made it into the second bag:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More than I would like but I will continue to tweak the system….
> 
> Since the cyclone is hard mounted above, I have to bring the barrel up to the cyclone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lift is hinged in the back and will lift the barrel straight up into the cyclone. Use another short 2×4 to lock the barrel tight up to the cyclone…
> 
> Some other photos from the build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll shorten up the flex tube runs after a few days of proving the layout…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> *UPDATE *- Newer photos posted here.


Fernando and Steve - Appreciate the comments! Yeah I forgot to photograph the hidden dovetails in the 2×4 lift…oops. And yes, the thought of moving now is like a nightmare…...

Forgot to mention - mounted the blower on the wall and decided to test fire it with no plumbing attached to check for noise, vibration etc….......holy dust storm batman…..didn't stop to think about all that dust in the ceiling just making to be released…....I think it's time to turn on the air cleaners and get the leaf blower and free some dust!


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

JL7 said:


> *Dust Collector Mod*
> 
> Modded the single stage collector into a dual stage collector using to the super dust deputy from Oneida - Decided to to relocate the motor and blower above the cyclone and minimize the runs…..also hard mounted the cyclone under the blower and built a riser to bring the barrel into the cyclone. The barrel was a freebie from work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked on this all day and not much scientific data to report - but here is a video of the first run, using a bucket of super fine dust - Some dust did make it to the second bag - see photos after the video…..
> 
> Here is the dust that made it into the second bag:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More than I would like but I will continue to tweak the system….
> 
> Since the cyclone is hard mounted above, I have to bring the barrel up to the cyclone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lift is hinged in the back and will lift the barrel straight up into the cyclone. Use another short 2×4 to lock the barrel tight up to the cyclone…
> 
> Some other photos from the build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll shorten up the flex tube runs after a few days of proving the layout…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> *UPDATE *- Newer photos posted here.


Jeff im at the stage where dust collection is at the top of my gotta do list ,been thinking about the HF and setting it up like this, the duct work you got seem to work too ,how did the connections go.and like your shop and you cant go wrong with CCR playing in the back ground


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Dust Collector Mod*
> 
> Modded the single stage collector into a dual stage collector using to the super dust deputy from Oneida - Decided to to relocate the motor and blower above the cyclone and minimize the runs…..also hard mounted the cyclone under the blower and built a riser to bring the barrel into the cyclone. The barrel was a freebie from work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked on this all day and not much scientific data to report - but here is a video of the first run, using a bucket of super fine dust - Some dust did make it to the second bag - see photos after the video…..
> 
> Here is the dust that made it into the second bag:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More than I would like but I will continue to tweak the system….
> 
> Since the cyclone is hard mounted above, I have to bring the barrel up to the cyclone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lift is hinged in the back and will lift the barrel straight up into the cyclone. Use another short 2×4 to lock the barrel tight up to the cyclone…
> 
> Some other photos from the build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll shorten up the flex tube runs after a few days of proving the layout…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> *UPDATE *- Newer photos posted here.


Hey Eddie - If I were to do it over from scratch, I think I would go with the HF as well ($150 with the coupon…..can't go wrong). But for some reason, I think the inlet on the HF is 5", but not sure…?

The inlet on mine is 6", and it's the same on the dust deputy and originally I was just going to use a short piece of flex tube and let the cyclone dangle….......but I was wandering around Menards looking for parts (not sure what I was looking for, but just looking…) I found something called a draw band connector - which is just a piece of sheetmetal that wraps around the connection and is tightened up with a hose type fitting that's welded on the sheet metal.

So to make the solid connection between the blower and cyclone, I used 2 things…first on the ID, I used a cheapo 6" sheet metal connector - the same one you would use for HVAC ductwork - then I applied a bunch of silicone to the outside of the connection and wrapped the draw band connector around it and used some self tappers to pin it all together. Seems good and solid and super cheap - like $4.

Besides the cyclone itself, the 5" and 6" flex stings a bit on the budget - found the heavy duty stuff on sale at PSI and with freight was just over $100 for 5' of each, plus a 6"-5" reducer to plug into the existing ductwork.

Not sure if that answers your question or not, but definitively go for it - this is the best improvement ever made in the shop…....at least that's today opinion!


----------



## exelectrician

JL7 said:


> *Dust Collector Mod*
> 
> Modded the single stage collector into a dual stage collector using to the super dust deputy from Oneida - Decided to to relocate the motor and blower above the cyclone and minimize the runs…..also hard mounted the cyclone under the blower and built a riser to bring the barrel into the cyclone. The barrel was a freebie from work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worked on this all day and not much scientific data to report - but here is a video of the first run, using a bucket of super fine dust - Some dust did make it to the second bag - see photos after the video…..
> 
> Here is the dust that made it into the second bag:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More than I would like but I will continue to tweak the system….
> 
> Since the cyclone is hard mounted above, I have to bring the barrel up to the cyclone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lift is hinged in the back and will lift the barrel straight up into the cyclone. Use another short 2×4 to lock the barrel tight up to the cyclone…
> 
> Some other photos from the build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll shorten up the flex tube runs after a few days of proving the layout…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.
> 
> *UPDATE *- Newer photos posted here.


Jeff - You have nailed it. I agree with all that you have done here … except routing the air that comes out of the filter outside. I have read so many claims about how wonderful the various filters are but when I look at the behaviour of corporations in general how can mere mortals like us test thier claims - without paying the ultimate price?


----------



## JL7

*Shop Vac - Cyclone and Cart*

Always working on the dust issues in the basement…......










Love the Fein vac - Klingspor was selling the Turbo II for $100 off list a few weeks ago, so just couldn't resist and the Super Deputy is just a sweet addition. The reviews are accurate on this one - it works great.

Just hate dragging around all the hoses and crap…....you know what I mean…....

This is just a 2×4, a bunch of scrap wood, and the old metal base off of the dust collector I modified recently. It looked a bit shabby - so it got a coat of paint.

The vac and cyclone just drop in with a bit of a friction fit:





































Thanks for looking.


----------



## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *Shop Vac - Cyclone and Cart*
> 
> Always working on the dust issues in the basement…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the Fein vac - Klingspor was selling the Turbo II for $100 off list a few weeks ago, so just couldn't resist and the Super Deputy is just a sweet addition. The reviews are accurate on this one - it works great.
> 
> Just hate dragging around all the hoses and crap…....you know what I mean…....
> 
> This is just a 2×4, a bunch of scrap wood, and the old metal base off of the dust collector I modified recently. It looked a bit shabby - so it got a coat of paint.
> 
> The vac and cyclone just drop in with a bit of a friction fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Nice, pretty sweet paint job too. Kinda race car looking color scheme. Your shop has to be a great place to make stuff.


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## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Shop Vac - Cyclone and Cart*
> 
> Always working on the dust issues in the basement…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the Fein vac - Klingspor was selling the Turbo II for $100 off list a few weeks ago, so just couldn't resist and the Super Deputy is just a sweet addition. The reviews are accurate on this one - it works great.
> 
> Just hate dragging around all the hoses and crap…....you know what I mean…....
> 
> This is just a 2×4, a bunch of scrap wood, and the old metal base off of the dust collector I modified recently. It looked a bit shabby - so it got a coat of paint.
> 
> The vac and cyclone just drop in with a bit of a friction fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Dude you are on a dust bustin kick. You aught to have the cleanest shop in town. Nice work Jeff and cool paint scheme.


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## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Shop Vac - Cyclone and Cart*
> 
> Always working on the dust issues in the basement…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the Fein vac - Klingspor was selling the Turbo II for $100 off list a few weeks ago, so just couldn't resist and the Super Deputy is just a sweet addition. The reviews are accurate on this one - it works great.
> 
> Just hate dragging around all the hoses and crap…....you know what I mean…....
> 
> This is just a 2×4, a bunch of scrap wood, and the old metal base off of the dust collector I modified recently. It looked a bit shabby - so it got a coat of paint.
> 
> The vac and cyclone just drop in with a bit of a friction fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Shane - it don't handle like a race car tho - cornering is bad…......

Dave - I thought you were wandering the countryside aimlessly on the bike?? Thanks for the nice words!


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## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Shop Vac - Cyclone and Cart*
> 
> Always working on the dust issues in the basement…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the Fein vac - Klingspor was selling the Turbo II for $100 off list a few weeks ago, so just couldn't resist and the Super Deputy is just a sweet addition. The reviews are accurate on this one - it works great.
> 
> Just hate dragging around all the hoses and crap…....you know what I mean…....
> 
> This is just a 2×4, a bunch of scrap wood, and the old metal base off of the dust collector I modified recently. It looked a bit shabby - so it got a coat of paint.
> 
> The vac and cyclone just drop in with a bit of a friction fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Thanks for looking.


Sweet. A cart like that could come in real handy. I don't even have a vortex thingy on mine, but it does not trail along very well at all and the hose parts keep getting in the way. I need to think this through…

Steve


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

JL7 said:


> *Shop Vac - Cyclone and Cart*
> 
> Always working on the dust issues in the basement…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the Fein vac - Klingspor was selling the Turbo II for $100 off list a few weeks ago, so just couldn't resist and the Super Deputy is just a sweet addition. The reviews are accurate on this one - it works great.
> 
> Just hate dragging around all the hoses and crap…....you know what I mean…....
> 
> This is just a 2×4, a bunch of scrap wood, and the old metal base off of the dust collector I modified recently. It looked a bit shabby - so it got a coat of paint.
> 
> The vac and cyclone just drop in with a bit of a friction fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff that a great idea i need to make one of these i got hose evey where .i think im going to go purple and yellow for LSU with a tiger on the hose holder .i got about the same thing but put my dirt depudy on a 30 gallon can but its not wuch wider then the vac.i may have to beef it up a little for the cornering.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Shop Vac - Cyclone and Cart*
> 
> Always working on the dust issues in the basement…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the Fein vac - Klingspor was selling the Turbo II for $100 off list a few weeks ago, so just couldn't resist and the Super Deputy is just a sweet addition. The reviews are accurate on this one - it works great.
> 
> Just hate dragging around all the hoses and crap…....you know what I mean…....
> 
> This is just a 2×4, a bunch of scrap wood, and the old metal base off of the dust collector I modified recently. It looked a bit shabby - so it got a coat of paint.
> 
> The vac and cyclone just drop in with a bit of a friction fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


That's it Steve - it's was so frustrating to try and move the vac - so alot times you just skip it…...look out dust!

Eddie - maybe I should get a sponsor and plaster their name on the hose holder thing - and all other future projects, and then maybe a could afford this hobby…. Good luck on the vac mods!


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Shop Vac - Cyclone and Cart*
> 
> Always working on the dust issues in the basement…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the Fein vac - Klingspor was selling the Turbo II for $100 off list a few weeks ago, so just couldn't resist and the Super Deputy is just a sweet addition. The reviews are accurate on this one - it works great.
> 
> Just hate dragging around all the hoses and crap…....you know what I mean…....
> 
> This is just a 2×4, a bunch of scrap wood, and the old metal base off of the dust collector I modified recently. It looked a bit shabby - so it got a coat of paint.
> 
> The vac and cyclone just drop in with a bit of a friction fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Yes I am but I brought my iPad so still checking in.


----------



## LeeJ

JL7 said:


> *Shop Vac - Cyclone and Cart*
> 
> Always working on the dust issues in the basement…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the Fein vac - Klingspor was selling the Turbo II for $100 off list a few weeks ago, so just couldn't resist and the Super Deputy is just a sweet addition. The reviews are accurate on this one - it works great.
> 
> Just hate dragging around all the hoses and crap…....you know what I mean…....
> 
> This is just a 2×4, a bunch of scrap wood, and the old metal base off of the dust collector I modified recently. It looked a bit shabby - so it got a coat of paint.
> 
> The vac and cyclone just drop in with a bit of a friction fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Great solution to a pain in the butt.

Lee


----------



## workerinwood

JL7 said:


> *Shop Vac - Cyclone and Cart*
> 
> Always working on the dust issues in the basement…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the Fein vac - Klingspor was selling the Turbo II for $100 off list a few weeks ago, so just couldn't resist and the Super Deputy is just a sweet addition. The reviews are accurate on this one - it works great.
> 
> Just hate dragging around all the hoses and crap…....you know what I mean…....
> 
> This is just a 2×4, a bunch of scrap wood, and the old metal base off of the dust collector I modified recently. It looked a bit shabby - so it got a coat of paint.
> 
> The vac and cyclone just drop in with a bit of a friction fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Like it, great job! I need to do this, thanks for the idea.


----------



## Kentuk55

JL7 said:


> *Shop Vac - Cyclone and Cart*
> 
> Always working on the dust issues in the basement…......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the Fein vac - Klingspor was selling the Turbo II for $100 off list a few weeks ago, so just couldn't resist and the Super Deputy is just a sweet addition. The reviews are accurate on this one - it works great.
> 
> Just hate dragging around all the hoses and crap…....you know what I mean…....
> 
> This is just a 2×4, a bunch of scrap wood, and the old metal base off of the dust collector I modified recently. It looked a bit shabby - so it got a coat of paint.
> 
> The vac and cyclone just drop in with a bit of a friction fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking.


pretty snazzee cart. Nice setup


----------



## JL7

*The Sander Cart......*

I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.



















The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...



















The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..

Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..

Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....




























Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….










Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….










And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...










The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.

Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....

Thanks for looking.


----------



## Roger Clark aka Rex

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Spiffy design and setup, makes the most of limited space. Finished nicely, almost too good for a workshop. Well done.


----------



## sras

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Looks like an efficient layout - lots of capability in a small space!


----------



## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Sweet. I see you put the modular cabinet right into use. Nice dust collection mod too. Carry on.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


*Roger, Steve and Shane *- thanks! Not too good for the workshop though….it is intended for use…

Appreciate the comments!


----------



## boxcarmarty

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Sweet setup Jeff. I see you have mounting bolts. Craftsman sanders like to jump off the tables…..


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Marty - seems like I read somewhere that you might have experience with jumping sanders…...

Yes….....we bolted her down….


----------



## Kentuk55

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Ahh yes. That should be a beast of a sander


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Roger!


----------



## patron

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


big improvement jeff

nice and compact too

well done


----------



## sb194

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Yes, the 20% off at HF comes in mighty handy. I'm assuming you frequent the one on Central. I have probably seen you there or will bump into you at some point.

The cart fits nicely in the corner and will be plenty useful. Good job.

Sean


----------



## SASmith

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


That is a great sanding station you have put together.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks David - appreciate it!

Sean - yes the one on Central - you must be just up the road from me - I'm in Fridley….we're sure to cross paths at some point!

Thanks for the comments Scott!


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Now that's the way to build it. You have a great station going on there with a bit of ingenuity. Impressive Jeff. Thumbs up!


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Mix a little "basement engineering" with a touch of "Rube Goldberg", sprinkle with a few "thingamajigs" and you have a sweet sanding station. Great job on the whole setup!!!


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


that is a sweet set up Jeff , shops filling up with some good tools looks great


----------



## sb194

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff,

I live right up the road in Blaine, close to the Anoka County Airport. Small world.

Sean


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Sander Cart......*
> 
> I've been working on the old Craftsman belt sander for awhile now. Picked it up from my brother a couple of years ago. I replaced the bearings and that made a world of difference. Built a new cart recently and picked up a 12" disc sander at HF with 20% off coupon…...and the free flashlight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor on the old Craftsman was tired, so another HF gamble was to buy the 1/2 HP motor….of course with the 20% off…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The motor is smooth and strong (so far)......previously, I could easily stop the sander with moderate pressure…..not now…..
> 
> Next issue - DUST. No dust control on the old timer…..
> 
> Sliced up some 3" PVC and modified a shop vac port and made a friction fit dust collection port…..not that pretty, but it functions well…....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next problem - no where to mount the switch for the belt sander - so engineered a bit of "plier" like mount using maple flooring scraps on the cast iron handle on the disc sander….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behind the switch is a little pvc tray for the eraser….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is it's new home - the sanding corner…...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old Craftsman is running better than ever - lots of power. The HF disc has yet to prove it's keep, but runs pretty smooth, lots of power (1-1/2 HP….or so they say). The table is sub-par but we'll see.
> 
> Dust collection is good on both - and that's a major issue in the basement…....
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Dave, Randy and Eddie - appreciate it! Didn't consider the Rube Goldberg angle - that may be too much - I really don't want to be launching or blowing up anything while sanding…....but time will tell!

Sean - you are maybe 5 miles away…...small world indeed…...let me know if you are looking for some exotic wood, maybe I can help…....


----------



## JL7

*Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*

I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.

On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.

Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..















I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...

*UPDATE:*

Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..




























One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...

Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......

Thanks for looking…


----------



## bobasaurus

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


Do you notice any difference in quality of the cut/finish? What about weird grain, knotholes, etc?


----------



## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


Havent watched the video yet Jeff, but if you dont mind how much was it, and where did you get it from? Please update us on results after you have had plenty of play…er plane time.


----------



## Bagtown

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


Wow. Quite a difference in noise.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


*Bob* - haven't really run any wood yet except for that piece ok Oak - which did have a knot, and it looks good…

*Shane* - Best price I could find was at Global Tooling - here - $402.00

I ordered it, then they called and said it would be 5-6 weeks and then 2 days later it was at my door? So I think it showed up within 4 days of ordering…....

Also bought a set 6-1/8" HSS jointer blades (3) for $11.00…....solid value - will be testing those soon as well…....


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


Now thats a big difference Jeff.
Very impressive.


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


Neat. That has always been tempting. That planer is good enough to upgrade to a helix.
Two hours, huh.

Steve


----------



## patron

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


i want

great upgrade jeff

enjoy


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


Thanks for the comments folks - added a bit of content to the original post…..I like the upgrade…..


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


Jeff,
As you know I just purchased a used DW735, with a mangled cutterhead. DeWalt sells a replacement head for $111.10. so for about $300, the shelix is a reasonable upgrade.Unfortunately, my bank account is telling Howie Mandel; "NO DEAL"!!!

So the dust bag is a new addition???

Now then, about your old cutterhead…....


----------



## cutmantom

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


now the planer motor is the noise maker, that head would be great on a belt drive planer


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


*Randy* - I sent you a PM on the cutterhead - let me know if you didn't get it. I used the dust bag on my old Craftsman planer that I sold yesterday. Always worked good, and now after planing up the Maple today, it works good on the Dewalt as well. These planers have a serious chip blower built in, so no problem there.

The only deal with the bag is getting a good seal on the hose…...really only an issue when you first change over.

*cutmantum* - you are correct - the motor is louder than the cutting…....


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


I got & responded to your PM.


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


Jeff, looks like this was a good investment for your shop. Enjoy! I'll probably get over my helix head envy some day.


----------



## REK

JL7 said:


> *Byrd Shelix upgrade for the DW735*
> 
> I burn through planer blades like crazy so I bit the bullet and upgraded. Took about 2 hours this morning to install and cuts sweet on the very first pass. Time will tell, but should be a great upgrade.
> 
> On a side note - I use an old dust collector bag for chip collection - otherwise you fill up the dust collector or shop vac way to fast…....I think it will work anyways, just hooked that up yesterday.
> 
> Here is the difference in noise level - some say you don't need ear protection with the Shelix, but I think it's still a good idea…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a batch of Maple to plane up this afternoon so will see how that goes…...
> 
> *UPDATE:*
> 
> Milled around 80 Maple boards - jointed 2 sides first, but the finish from the jointer not so good, so surfaced all 4 sides in the planer…....the finish looks good - handles the figured stock very well….last photo is a kind of a prototype of some furniture ideas I'm kicking around with this Maple…...which I have a quantity of 20" pieces…..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to note - the diameter of the Shelix head seems to be smaller than the factory blades, which makes sense if you understand how this has to be installed. So will just take a bit of time to adjust to the change. So the pre-set stops will need to be tweaked, etc… I use a vernier caliper as a rule so probably not a big deal…...
> 
> Bottom line - the cut performance out of the box is impressive….as it should be…......
> 
> Thanks for looking…


Nice upgrade, you are tempting me on this one.


----------



## JL7

*The Sharpening Cart.....*

Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:










Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:










Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:










It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:










Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):










If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:










Little supply drawer with foam again:



















Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:










Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:










Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!

Thanks for looking.


----------



## patron

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


little by little buddy

looks like a good set-up
all in one place
smart

i need to consolidate things too

way to much time spent
looking for things


----------



## BTimmons

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


That's a rather brilliant setup. Nice to have everything handy.


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


"Sharp" little setup you have there. Compact, self contained and wired for proper electron euthanasia. More power to you!!!

I would be happy to supply you some "motivation", but I seem to be without any myself!!!


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff that is one well thought out sharpening station. I like it because it is compact and full of goodies. Well designed and well done.
I might copy some of your ideas when I build me one. With your permission.


----------



## Roger Clark aka Rex

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff, it's pictures of a nice, clean and functional shop that has me reaching for a double dose of Sertraline (Zoloft).


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks guys…..Dave - steal away…....but I don't think you can buy the floppy case anymore…...sorry.


----------



## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


You got all the gadgets buddy. Your shop looks like a place of joy and usefullness. Pretty cool.


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff I have a few. Yes that tells how long I have been working with computers. I have even seen working 8 inch IBM floppys.


----------



## boxcarmarty

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff, That's kinda like a bowl of soup. Just throw everything in one pot and hope for the best…..

I may have to try that with the floppy case, just as soon as I figure out what to do with these floppies…..


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Yep - we had the 8" floppies as well with the old IBM Mainframe…...some of the early hard drives where 8" also, we used to make gaskets for those huge drives. Each drive weighed in at 40 or 50 pounds….or something crazy like that…..


----------



## Roger Clark aka Rex

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Dave, you know I used 10" floppies an IBM "Fastdraft" CAD system - what a bloody hilarious name for a system that the OS is on the 10" floppy and a whopping 16k of main memory, and to crown it all, every time you made a change to the drawing (using only keyboard input coordinates) you had then have to wait for the damn monitor to do a SLOWWWWwwwwww screen repaint. I drew 3 lines a day.
When others used to asked me if I worked on the IBM FastDraft CAD system, I felt the need to piss my pants.
Years later we used Bournolie Dual Hard Drive systems with enormous 2×5 meg drives, but since then the M1 tank has emerged as the heaviest weapon of the battlefield.


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


ANother nice one Jeff. Now, should I keep the SD plastic cases for any future use too?


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Hey Fernando - good to hear from you! Save those little SD cases - you can carry your virtual workshop in your pocket….

What are you working on now?


----------



## Roger Clark aka Rex

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff, I have a large stash of pharmacy prescription pill containers, the larger ones make great drill bit containers. I usually don't empty out the pill dust from containers that I keep my impact driver bits in, as I find the Vicodin dust helps lessen the hammering pain of the driver and bit.


----------



## Bagtown

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff,

impressive.
Well thought out, and executed.
I, like Dave hope to thieve this idea someday.
Right now my grinder and my worksharp with all its paraphenalia are mixed on my bench with everything else.

Nice one.


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Hi Jeff, In the last 40 days I stepped only once in the shop. Just to pick some paper tape !!

Been looking after the oldies. Mine and my wife´s parents are 90+ so far. We´ll see how it develops.

My 1994 Mercedes wiring throttle actuator dissolved. So I started to look into it. And still trying to fix it. Import control in the exotic country prevent the local Mercedes dealer to import parts. Been waiting for 6 months now. We´ll see how it develops.










Simultaneously we started to build a fast trawler 3 months ago. Even we are not building it directly, requires some attention. We´ll see how it develops.










Also fixed the cantilevered neck of my Hofner guitar. But I did it in the family room.




























So pens are supposed to be a quicky project . So I have in the pipeline a couple for Xmas. Didn´t post, since so far there is nothing interesting to show.

Anyhow, I draft you a teaser. Hope I´ll finish in the next couple of years


----------



## Kentuk55

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Well thought out sharpening cart/station. That Kaizen foam is kool stuff. I don't have any, yet, but, maybe in the future.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


*Rex* - Funny stuff…...whatever it takes to keep the tools pain free…

Thanks *Mike* - steal away, no rocket science going on here…..

*Fernando* - WOW - the new trawler is looking good….....color me jealous for sure! Good luck on the Hofner repair and the secret project - looking forward to seeing it!

*Roger* - thanks man…...give the foam a try…...pretty cool stuff…......


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


great sharping station Jeff ,you got it going on, still trying to get caught up on the posting and projects from being off line a while .caught this one on the e mag , shop is really taking shape ,


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart.....*
> 
> Not too fancy, but always trying to save a little floor space, so combined a few different gadgets on one cart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buffing compound is stored in pvc pipe cutoffs. Using the compound on MDF discs is a trick I picked up from Stumpy Nubs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep - that's an old 5-1/4" Floppy case, it fits the Worksharp paper just right…...yeah, I'm an old geek:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sits in a piece of foam so you can get it out of the way and also have a spot to set the sharp (or dull?) stuff down:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some Kaizen foam for the other supplies and extra wheels (stacked 4 high):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you spin the cart around the variable speed grinder is on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Little supply drawer with foam again:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted the old drill on the side to run the stropping wheel:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power strip on the other side so one plug does it all:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just gotta find the motivation to sharpen stuff!
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks eddie…..good to have you back and posting again….


----------



## JL7

*Updated Wood Shop Tour......*

Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


----------



## wswartzwel

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


always impressed by your work space and the projects that you make Jeff.


----------



## patron

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


i've been to allot of jungles
but have never seen a live video

and at 11+ minuets can't even see this one

glad you got it with one shot though
must be some good shooting

glad you made it out alive
being scared and shaking like that


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Thanks Bill!

David - good to hear from you…...Someday, even you desert dwellers will get high speed internet…..be patient! Thanks for stopping by….


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Nice tour, but I think the tour bus needs some maintenance work….
I think one of the wheels, that are suppossed to go round & round, is square!!!

FYI: I did not suffer a seizure!!!

The 1/4 sheet sander with inner tube??? Can you show/explain that?

Also the ROS was that a pad it rests on when not in use or something else???


----------



## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Holey smokes! Awesome shop Jeff. You got some cool stuff and set ups. How many router tables you got in there? Definitely a nice place to spend some time.


----------



## Airspeed

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Nice shop! Looks like you have it set up very efficient. I thought I had a crammed shop! Yours is crammed in a good way! I'll be remembering your tips. I think I know what to do with a few of the five shop vacs I somehow collected! Thanks for the tour!


----------



## boxcarmarty

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


A scrap bin???

and who has too much time???


----------



## Airspeed

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


One question, what the Hell was that "SPROING" sound when you disconnected the sander from the dust hose? I thought I was watching your video with a roadrunner soundtrack!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Randy - the sander in a tube is something I saw on the Doug Stowe - how to build a box video….you should find that one, learned a lot from Doug….

Anyways, you take your Craigslist $35 Porter Cable 1/2 sheet sander, and set it into a little inner tube filled with sand…..it kills all the vibration and it's great for sanding boxes or any small parts…..










Here you can see where I sliced the hole in the tube, and just zip tied it to the handle of the sander to keep the sand from falling out…..










That other pad under the ROS doesn't really serve any purpose except to set the sander down…...this sander spins down quick, but my other sanders don't, so it's a by product of the old days when I used it for a brake!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Shane….Who counts router tables?? OK, there is the main one plus one on each table saw, plus a bolt on one I built in the early day (Stuffed under the RAS).....and technically somewhere in the shop is an el cheapo woflcraft table somewhere….....sometimes it's nice to have an extra…...thanks man.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Airspeed - I couldn't have timed the SPROING any better…......but it was the cell phone…...HA! Thanks and welcome to LJ's…...


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Marty - I AM going to part with the scraps soon….....the snow is almost gone FINALLY…...I have to put some reclaimed pavers around the fire ring in the backyard and have a wienie roast…..


----------



## Roger Clark aka Rex

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


VERY COOL SHOP jEFF.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Thanks Roger…...I know your shop is shaping up as we speak…...always like seeing the progress….there is nothing better than one's own shop…...


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Way cool Jeff. I could live down there.
Looks like a good Minnesota shop - In the basement and meant for hours and hours of escapement from snow and mosquitoes.

My shop now is so clean and empty. Sigh - I never have it right.

Thanks for the tour,
Steve


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Thanks Steve…..have to agree….in this climate, the basement is the best choice for me…...

IMHO, the shop is never quite right, it's a work in progress…...thanks for stopping by….


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Love it. Jeff you are scaring me with the scrap bins that have there own species name on the front.
It looks like a great place to work and create,
I do love the work bench. You have managed to create one that looks so modern but with the functionality of the old ones.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Thanks Dave for the comments and the cool wrought iron stuff on the bench :^) Working on a little project for that hardware now…....only time will tell whether it will pan out…...no plan, just wood and tools…...Thanks man.


----------



## a1Jim

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Very nice shop and some really unique set ups and tools.


----------



## Cory

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Ive always liked your shop tours, especially your bench. Now in the first minute of this video I see a BFM and a Chive On sticker. You're officially my hero.

Chive On.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Hey Jim - Thanks!

Cory - I figured somebody would notice! That's not a sticker though, it was carved on the CNC…..KCCO…


----------



## mprzybylski

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Very nice shop Jeff. Question about the sliding table of 80/20 for your drum sander: how stable is it in terms of wiggle? First thing I thought when I saw it was a sliding table for the TS but obviously that can't have any play in it. Would you say this slider is sufficient?


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Holy Cow Jeff! You've got more cool stuff than Roger (I think more than Woodcraft as well!). Your organization is amazing to get all that stuff in the allowed space. I got a LOT of ideas from your tour. I gotta ask though: was that a shop vac hanging from the ceiling? Great tour!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Matt - it uses ball bearing rollers…..is it perfect…....no. But does it work well…..yes. I can't count how many end grain cutting boards I've sent through this rig. I have learned how to deal with it's short-comings and the results have been good…...


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Andy - That wasn't a cow hanging from the ceiling…..just a shop vac. There are very few advantages of having 7 foot ceilings…....hanging stuff from them is one of the few…...

Thanks for stopping by Andy…...appreciate it…


----------



## mojapitt

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Very cool shop. Lots of great ideas, probably didn't happen overnight.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Thanks Monte…..i'm four years into the woodworking journey…..:^)


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Jeff- If you have accumulated all that in 4 years, you need to start looking for a bigger shop! If ya run out of room, I'll send you my "want list"


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Thanks Andy - good friends are hard to find! However….I've seen your shop….I've got nothin' on you…...


----------



## toddc

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Thanks for the tour! It is always fun to see how other woodworkers setup their shop.


----------



## Kentuk55

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Thnx for the tour. Lotsa gr8 stuff there


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


I know this is a never ending story. And continues getting better.

It seems that once you get your dream shop, the story ends. And nobody wants that. So keep it up Jeff.

Next, the fridge corner. Do you sit sometimes?


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Todd, Roger and Fernando….. thanks for stopping by…....Fernando the fridge sits right behind the computer so don't even need to stand up for a refill while typing….... :^)


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


great shop and set up ,Jeff i need to get that organized


----------



## mochoa

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Wow, awesome shop!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Updated Wood Shop Tour......*
> 
> Haven't posted any updates to the old blog for awhile, so shot a quick video…....Sorry - it's really shakey and was done in one un-edited take…...I had just finished the morning pot of coffee before filming….....if you are prone to seizures don't watch!


Hey Eddie and Mauricio…...........really appreciate it!


----------



## JL7

*Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*

Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.

You can see previous mods here:

http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321

http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348

http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269

The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...










(That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)

I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...

The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.

The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...

Here are the new grips:

The outbound:










The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:










I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….

Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.

Oh yea…...

Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Great fix Jeff. The clips on both of my drum sanders are less than ideal. I have to use strapping tape on the outboard end. Noy sure I'm handy enough to do these new clips though


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Hey Andy - I've used the "duct tape" trick…..it's fine as long as you don't need to sand in that spot! The change here is amazing…...I used the same exact paper before and after and no problems after…..love it.


----------



## Momcanfixit

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Heck, I'll be by next week to borrow it- that's quite a sander.


----------



## Loren

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


What's the price on the new clips?


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


See ya next week Sandra!......Ring twice, I'm usually in the basement…....

Loren…they were about $50 for the pair…....


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Jeff, If I order these and hit a snag installing them, you'll come help right?


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Sure thing Andy…...do you have the Performax sanders?? If yes…..you gotta do it….well worth it…..I had to dis-assemble the drum…PITA, but worth it..


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Glad you were able to get it all sorted & fixed.

I need a drum sander. Purchase of a new one is NOT in the cards. Perhaps a CL deal will fall in my lap. If not, looks like I will build either a "Stumpy" version or one of my own design!!!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Randy - build it, buy it or just wish it there…..(sometimes that works…) you will like it….


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Jeff thats some fine photography .good shots ,sorry no help but im with Randy on the sander need one bad am going to try stumpys ,the desk top looked great


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Hey Eddie…...these are iPad (lazy) photos…the cool thing with the iPad (and I'm sure other devices) is it uploads all the photos to the cloud automatically…....so you can later sit at the 'puter and mess with them…..


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


They are nice photos. Lazy poop.

Those clips are what my Performax has for paper holding. The main problem is reaching in there to get at it, even with their little access tool.

I would not have thought of balancing. It sure makes sense. And shows what a difference there is with an aluminum drum and a home made MDF one. I have never read of anyone balancing one, or any need to. Huh.

Looking good Jeff. Your shop is just so cool.
Steve


----------



## boxcarmarty

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Somethin' over here smells like burnt gym socks…..


----------



## boxcarmarty

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Jeff, I've thought about these problems that you've had with the sander and I think I have a solution. Load it in Rich's car when he comes this way and I'll take care of it from there…..


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Steve….they didn't include the little tool either…..but surprisingly, I found it pretty easy to get the paper set. There is just enough room to get r done. I'm sure yours is counterbalanced from the factory. Thanks Steve..

Marty, thanks for the generous offer, if it fits in Rich's car, you got it…....ring twice Rich, I'm usually in the basement…..


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Jeff keep them tools going. Your smarter than the average bear.


----------



## BritBoxmaker

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Jeff. I like the hinged drum covers. I think I might adapt the idea for my home grown sander.


----------



## Loren

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Thanks. I intend to build a new cover for mine too and
your design gives me some ideas.

Lacking a conveyer, you likely won't encounter the problem
of the wood slipping on the belt. Performax used to sell
some hold-down rollers to address that. I reckon 
I'll try mounting some lexan hold-down springs on the
cover somehow and see if that helps.


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Jeff, I have a little Jet 10-20 and a bigger Craftsman 18-36. Neither of mine have plastic clips and my outboard clips look like your new ones. My inboard clips look just like your outboard clips.


----------



## Fitoguer

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Hello All, I want to built one of this great sander, Any idea or recommendation to whre can I buy a Drum Sander like Jeff's Sander??, Thank You


----------



## Fitoguer

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Hello any help regarding to my last post?, Thank You


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Another Drum Sander Upgrade...*
> 
> Hey folks….another upgrade for the old Performax ST (22×44) drum sander. This is the original drum sander that Performax made and it bolts onto a RAS.
> 
> You can see previous mods here:
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19321
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/19348
> 
> http://lumberjocks.com/JL7/blog/21269
> 
> The sander has always worked great for me, until the other day when I tried to sand a 21×36 solid Maple desk top. I don't usually use the full width of the sander. The problem was the cheesy plastic paper holding things just didn't keep there grip and the paper would overlap* and burn*...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (That's the photo after I drilled out the rivets holding them in….)
> 
> I called SuperMax, which is the original company that built the early Performax stuff, before Jet bought them…...and they are still in the Twin Cities, so close to home…...
> 
> The young lady was so pleasant, I called right after she shut her computer down for the day, but she processed the order anyways, from memory…...works for me.
> 
> The parts showed up today in the mail. Only gripes…..no instructions….and no counter weights….I wouldn't have even considered the counter weights until I Google'd the directions, which I found in an obscure re-scanned document not on the SuperMax site. Thankfully, it described the correct weight for the counterbalances…...
> 
> Here are the new grips:
> 
> The outbound:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inbound…..this one uses some heavy spring pressure to keep the paper tight and is easy to load:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't take photos, but without the counterweights, the drum was a disaster…..vibrating all over the place…...Panic ensued….
> 
> Luckily, a few day ago I bought a HF scale for weighing out finishes….....$16 with coupon. Good call, because I could weigh out enough washers to balance each end of the drum…...used super glue and hot glue to attach. Runs nice and smooth now.
> 
> Oh yea…...
> 
> Got a perfectly smooth solid Maple top (from old gym floor) on the sander….no burn:


Hello Fito,

Sorry for the late reply. This is a really old model and they haven't built them for years. I was lucky to find it cheap on Craigslist.  I built the dust collection and the sliding table myself, and it's a one of a kind design, so you probably won't find another one just like it.

My best advice is keep looking!! Hope this helps…...


----------



## JL7

*Magnificent Wood....*

A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.

The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….

Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.

I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....

Shown with the other two boards rough:














































I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*

Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......

Thanks for looking.


----------



## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Oh no…bad news Jeff. That wood ain't any good. I would feel as if I let you down if I didn't offer to take it off your hands.


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## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Corner blocks for cabinets….
Yeah, that's what I'd use them boards for!!! ;^)


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## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff I see a coffee table or end table.
You will figure something out.
It is purdy.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Shane, that's very generous!

Good thinkin' Randy…..let me ponder that…..No.

Dave's the only rational person here, and that includes me…..


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff:

Whoa! You have been holding out on us. That is gorgeous!

I'd have to resaw that and see how far I could make it go.

You traded a 3" board for a lathe?


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## sras

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Oh yeah - that's nice! It will look even better as a project. As stated above - resaw them bad boys and spread them out!


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## boxcarmarty

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Ooooo, Ahhhh, Wow, Now send one to me so I can try…..


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Andy - not a 3" board…I traded one of the (5" x 36") boards for my lathe…..along with a couple of other (non cocobolo) nice boards. I need to put a fresh blade in the bandsaw, but I think some resawing is in order…thanks…

Steve - I agree….thanks!

Marty - go stand by your mailbox….....wait for it…...


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff, Hit the shift key when I shouldn't have. Still, a 3' board for a lathe sounds like ya done good.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Andy -I traded either 4 or 5 five nice boards for the lathe and both parties were happy…....bartering is fun, should do it more…..


----------



## SRRieman

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Looks like rosewood to me. East indian. The goods. Nice score.


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## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
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> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Scott…...that's good to know..


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## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff, I agree with the bartering. Now if I can just find someone who wants to trade for some boxes…....


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## Bogeyguy

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
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> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


I remember well, working as an apprentice cabinet/millman years ago (43 yrs ago). You think those bds are heavy, try slinging 6/4 or 8/4, 8 and 10 ft long 5",6" width. 1000 bd ft. Brutal. Trim for a law office. Damn designer/architects. LOL! It was a one time experience. Learned well how to sharpen joiner and planer blades, daily. Tough lumber to work with.


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## littlecope

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Beauteous Wood Jeff!!
For what it's worth, that looks like Rosewood to me too…
I had some that looked just like that…


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## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Andy - I can think of LOTS of people who would trade for those boxes…..for sure…..!

Bogey - that sounds like quite the project….lot's of work, but you'll never forget….....

Mike - Thanks man…...

Planned up the other 2 boards tonight, here's the photos from both sides…...



















Now what?


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## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Shop jig….


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## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Good idea…....but maybe not…....stacked them up tonight to let them settle…..

I'll wait for the right time…


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## vipond33

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


I'd bet the farm that you're looking at East Indian rosewood. We just finished a job using it as trim with matching qtrsawn veneer. Be careful with the finish if you want those dramatic colours to remain.


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## Kentuk55

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


That orangee color and grain looks like Cocobolo to me


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## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


I am with Coco to


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## CFrye

JL7 said:


> *Magnificent Wood....*
> 
> A couple years back I scored a great deal on an exotic wood lot on CL and for the most part have been using those cool woods in many projects, with a couple of exceptions…....and this was the main exception. There were 4 pieces marked "Rosewood" in the lot that I just knew were something extraordinary.
> 
> The boards are roughly 5" x 36" (4/4). I should add that I did barter one of these boards for my lathe, so now it's 3. It's hard to imagine anything denser than these boards. For a couple of years now I would pass one of these boards to any shop visitors just to see the reaction…...they are heavy….
> 
> Honestly, I have cleaned up a bunch of hard wood, but was always intimated by these four.
> 
> I just sharpened the jointer knives and rotated the carbide cutters on the Shelix cutter head in the planer, so decided today was the day to see what was hiding under the rough sawn exterior of one…....
> 
> Shown with the other two boards rough:
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> I'm color blind, but I'm seeing a bunch of different colors here. I'm thinking* Cocobolo.*
> 
> Not sure where to go from here, but wow…......
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Sddcvbnmklknnb. Cd sawefggnmm 
Sorry, just wiping the drool off the keyboard.


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## JL7

*The Sharpening Cart - Now with a buffing station.....*

I made a few changes to the sharpening cart that I originally posted HERE.

I added a removable platform to the right of the Worksharp - thanks for the idea Stumpy….much appreciated.

Later, I decided to add the the Beall buffing setup under the the little shelf. Previously this was just mounted on a piece of plywood and I would drag it out every time I use it. Since I use it a lot, this should be useful.

Also added the "shelf" that hold the buffing wheels, buffing compound and up to eight extra Worksharp discs. The shelf is form fit to the grinder and just sits in place without fasteners or you can remove it and hang it on the side of the cart.

*Here's a shot from each side of the cart:*





































*There's more "stuff" in the top drawer:*










*The platform stays is place with 4 dowels and is easily removed:*










*The shelf:*



















*The back of the shelf is notched to fit into the grinder:*










*The little Maple cleat is all that is needed to keep the shelf in place:*










*Optionally, the shelf can hang on the side of the cart:*










One of these days I'm going to build these cool jigs for sharpening the lathe tools like Steve posted HERE.

Thanks for looking….......


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## GaryC

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart - Now with a buffing station.....*
> 
> I made a few changes to the sharpening cart that I originally posted HERE.
> 
> I added a removable platform to the right of the Worksharp - thanks for the idea Stumpy….much appreciated.
> 
> Later, I decided to add the the Beall buffing setup under the the little shelf. Previously this was just mounted on a piece of plywood and I would drag it out every time I use it. Since I use it a lot, this should be useful.
> 
> Also added the "shelf" that hold the buffing wheels, buffing compound and up to eight extra Worksharp discs. The shelf is form fit to the grinder and just sits in place without fasteners or you can remove it and hang it on the side of the cart.
> 
> *Here's a shot from each side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> *There's more "stuff" in the top drawer:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The platform stays is place with 4 dowels and is easily removed:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The shelf:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The back of the shelf is notched to fit into the grinder:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The little Maple cleat is all that is needed to keep the shelf in place:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Optionally, the shelf can hang on the side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of these days I'm going to build these cool jigs for sharpening the lathe tools like Steve posted HERE.
> 
> Thanks for looking….......


You need to send that cart to my shop. I have plenty of room for it


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## Momcanfixit

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart - Now with a buffing station.....*
> 
> I made a few changes to the sharpening cart that I originally posted HERE.
> 
> I added a removable platform to the right of the Worksharp - thanks for the idea Stumpy….much appreciated.
> 
> Later, I decided to add the the Beall buffing setup under the the little shelf. Previously this was just mounted on a piece of plywood and I would drag it out every time I use it. Since I use it a lot, this should be useful.
> 
> Also added the "shelf" that hold the buffing wheels, buffing compound and up to eight extra Worksharp discs. The shelf is form fit to the grinder and just sits in place without fasteners or you can remove it and hang it on the side of the cart.
> 
> *Here's a shot from each side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There's more "stuff" in the top drawer:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The platform stays is place with 4 dowels and is easily removed:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The shelf:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The back of the shelf is notched to fit into the grinder:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The little Maple cleat is all that is needed to keep the shelf in place:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Optionally, the shelf can hang on the side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of these days I'm going to build these cool jigs for sharpening the lathe tools like Steve posted HERE.
> 
> Thanks for looking….......


Can we name it R2D2?

Looks great!


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## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart - Now with a buffing station.....*
> 
> I made a few changes to the sharpening cart that I originally posted HERE.
> 
> I added a removable platform to the right of the Worksharp - thanks for the idea Stumpy….much appreciated.
> 
> Later, I decided to add the the Beall buffing setup under the the little shelf. Previously this was just mounted on a piece of plywood and I would drag it out every time I use it. Since I use it a lot, this should be useful.
> 
> Also added the "shelf" that hold the buffing wheels, buffing compound and up to eight extra Worksharp discs. The shelf is form fit to the grinder and just sits in place without fasteners or you can remove it and hang it on the side of the cart.
> 
> *Here's a shot from each side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There's more "stuff" in the top drawer:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The platform stays is place with 4 dowels and is easily removed:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The shelf:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The back of the shelf is notched to fit into the grinder:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The little Maple cleat is all that is needed to keep the shelf in place:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Optionally, the shelf can hang on the side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of these days I'm going to build these cool jigs for sharpening the lathe tools like Steve posted HERE.
> 
> Thanks for looking….......


Gary - the casters are only rated for "shop" speed…..don't think they will take 70 MPH down I-35….....


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## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart - Now with a buffing station.....*
> 
> I made a few changes to the sharpening cart that I originally posted HERE.
> 
> I added a removable platform to the right of the Worksharp - thanks for the idea Stumpy….much appreciated.
> 
> Later, I decided to add the the Beall buffing setup under the the little shelf. Previously this was just mounted on a piece of plywood and I would drag it out every time I use it. Since I use it a lot, this should be useful.
> 
> Also added the "shelf" that hold the buffing wheels, buffing compound and up to eight extra Worksharp discs. The shelf is form fit to the grinder and just sits in place without fasteners or you can remove it and hang it on the side of the cart.
> 
> *Here's a shot from each side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There's more "stuff" in the top drawer:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The platform stays is place with 4 dowels and is easily removed:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The shelf:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The back of the shelf is notched to fit into the grinder:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The little Maple cleat is all that is needed to keep the shelf in place:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Optionally, the shelf can hang on the side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of these days I'm going to build these cool jigs for sharpening the lathe tools like Steve posted HERE.
> 
> Thanks for looking….......


We sure can Sandra…....I just wished it actually sharpens the tools for me…..thanks.


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## StumpyNubs

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart - Now with a buffing station.....*
> 
> I made a few changes to the sharpening cart that I originally posted HERE.
> 
> I added a removable platform to the right of the Worksharp - thanks for the idea Stumpy….much appreciated.
> 
> Later, I decided to add the the Beall buffing setup under the the little shelf. Previously this was just mounted on a piece of plywood and I would drag it out every time I use it. Since I use it a lot, this should be useful.
> 
> Also added the "shelf" that hold the buffing wheels, buffing compound and up to eight extra Worksharp discs. The shelf is form fit to the grinder and just sits in place without fasteners or you can remove it and hang it on the side of the cart.
> 
> *Here's a shot from each side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There's more "stuff" in the top drawer:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The platform stays is place with 4 dowels and is easily removed:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The shelf:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The back of the shelf is notched to fit into the grinder:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The little Maple cleat is all that is needed to keep the shelf in place:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Optionally, the shelf can hang on the side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of these days I'm going to build these cool jigs for sharpening the lathe tools like Steve posted HERE.
> 
> Thanks for looking….......


Ok… now that's freakin awesome…


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart - Now with a buffing station.....*
> 
> I made a few changes to the sharpening cart that I originally posted HERE.
> 
> I added a removable platform to the right of the Worksharp - thanks for the idea Stumpy….much appreciated.
> 
> Later, I decided to add the the Beall buffing setup under the the little shelf. Previously this was just mounted on a piece of plywood and I would drag it out every time I use it. Since I use it a lot, this should be useful.
> 
> Also added the "shelf" that hold the buffing wheels, buffing compound and up to eight extra Worksharp discs. The shelf is form fit to the grinder and just sits in place without fasteners or you can remove it and hang it on the side of the cart.
> 
> *Here's a shot from each side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There's more "stuff" in the top drawer:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The platform stays is place with 4 dowels and is easily removed:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The shelf:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The back of the shelf is notched to fit into the grinder:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The little Maple cleat is all that is needed to keep the shelf in place:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Optionally, the shelf can hang on the side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of these days I'm going to build these cool jigs for sharpening the lathe tools like Steve posted HERE.
> 
> Thanks for looking….......


Jeff this is one cleaver design shaping station every thing right at you that you need ,got to favor this , i really like the light you have on it as my eyes arent what they use to be ,great build


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart - Now with a buffing station.....*
> 
> I made a few changes to the sharpening cart that I originally posted HERE.
> 
> I added a removable platform to the right of the Worksharp - thanks for the idea Stumpy….much appreciated.
> 
> Later, I decided to add the the Beall buffing setup under the the little shelf. Previously this was just mounted on a piece of plywood and I would drag it out every time I use it. Since I use it a lot, this should be useful.
> 
> Also added the "shelf" that hold the buffing wheels, buffing compound and up to eight extra Worksharp discs. The shelf is form fit to the grinder and just sits in place without fasteners or you can remove it and hang it on the side of the cart.
> 
> *Here's a shot from each side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There's more "stuff" in the top drawer:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The platform stays is place with 4 dowels and is easily removed:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The shelf:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The back of the shelf is notched to fit into the grinder:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The little Maple cleat is all that is needed to keep the shelf in place:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Optionally, the shelf can hang on the side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of these days I'm going to build these cool jigs for sharpening the lathe tools like Steve posted HERE.
> 
> Thanks for looking….......


Reminds me of a Mazda GLC, the predecessor to the 323…..
*G*reat *L*ittle *C*art!!!

Where is the beverage holder???


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart - Now with a buffing station.....*
> 
> I made a few changes to the sharpening cart that I originally posted HERE.
> 
> I added a removable platform to the right of the Worksharp - thanks for the idea Stumpy….much appreciated.
> 
> Later, I decided to add the the Beall buffing setup under the the little shelf. Previously this was just mounted on a piece of plywood and I would drag it out every time I use it. Since I use it a lot, this should be useful.
> 
> Also added the "shelf" that hold the buffing wheels, buffing compound and up to eight extra Worksharp discs. The shelf is form fit to the grinder and just sits in place without fasteners or you can remove it and hang it on the side of the cart.
> 
> *Here's a shot from each side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There's more "stuff" in the top drawer:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The platform stays is place with 4 dowels and is easily removed:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The shelf:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The back of the shelf is notched to fit into the grinder:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The little Maple cleat is all that is needed to keep the shelf in place:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Optionally, the shelf can hang on the side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of these days I'm going to build these cool jigs for sharpening the lathe tools like Steve posted HERE.
> 
> Thanks for looking….......


Now that is pretty neat. 
Man, I wish I would put in some time for a station like that. I would love it.
Hmmm, I seem to see the problem here. It is I.

Love the chuck on the end of beal shaft. Than will get her done.
Steve


----------



## Kentuk55

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart - Now with a buffing station.....*
> 
> I made a few changes to the sharpening cart that I originally posted HERE.
> 
> I added a removable platform to the right of the Worksharp - thanks for the idea Stumpy….much appreciated.
> 
> Later, I decided to add the the Beall buffing setup under the the little shelf. Previously this was just mounted on a piece of plywood and I would drag it out every time I use it. Since I use it a lot, this should be useful.
> 
> Also added the "shelf" that hold the buffing wheels, buffing compound and up to eight extra Worksharp discs. The shelf is form fit to the grinder and just sits in place without fasteners or you can remove it and hang it on the side of the cart.
> 
> *Here's a shot from each side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There's more "stuff" in the top drawer:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The platform stays is place with 4 dowels and is easily removed:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The shelf:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The back of the shelf is notched to fit into the grinder:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The little Maple cleat is all that is needed to keep the shelf in place:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Optionally, the shelf can hang on the side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of these days I'm going to build these cool jigs for sharpening the lathe tools like Steve posted HERE.
> 
> Thanks for looking….......


Nice setup. Compact in design and everything you need. Way kool


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart - Now with a buffing station.....*
> 
> I made a few changes to the sharpening cart that I originally posted HERE.
> 
> I added a removable platform to the right of the Worksharp - thanks for the idea Stumpy….much appreciated.
> 
> Later, I decided to add the the Beall buffing setup under the the little shelf. Previously this was just mounted on a piece of plywood and I would drag it out every time I use it. Since I use it a lot, this should be useful.
> 
> Also added the "shelf" that hold the buffing wheels, buffing compound and up to eight extra Worksharp discs. The shelf is form fit to the grinder and just sits in place without fasteners or you can remove it and hang it on the side of the cart.
> 
> *Here's a shot from each side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There's more "stuff" in the top drawer:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The platform stays is place with 4 dowels and is easily removed:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The shelf:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The back of the shelf is notched to fit into the grinder:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The little Maple cleat is all that is needed to keep the shelf in place:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Optionally, the shelf can hang on the side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of these days I'm going to build these cool jigs for sharpening the lathe tools like Steve posted HERE.
> 
> Thanks for looking….......


Jeff its like no space unused. 
I love that it has so many functions.
Again you have packed a lot into a little space.
Well done my friend.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Sharpening Cart - Now with a buffing station.....*
> 
> I made a few changes to the sharpening cart that I originally posted HERE.
> 
> I added a removable platform to the right of the Worksharp - thanks for the idea Stumpy….much appreciated.
> 
> Later, I decided to add the the Beall buffing setup under the the little shelf. Previously this was just mounted on a piece of plywood and I would drag it out every time I use it. Since I use it a lot, this should be useful.
> 
> Also added the "shelf" that hold the buffing wheels, buffing compound and up to eight extra Worksharp discs. The shelf is form fit to the grinder and just sits in place without fasteners or you can remove it and hang it on the side of the cart.
> 
> *Here's a shot from each side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *There's more "stuff" in the top drawer:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The platform stays is place with 4 dowels and is easily removed:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The shelf:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The back of the shelf is notched to fit into the grinder:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The little Maple cleat is all that is needed to keep the shelf in place:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Optionally, the shelf can hang on the side of the cart:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of these days I'm going to build these cool jigs for sharpening the lathe tools like Steve posted HERE.
> 
> Thanks for looking….......


Thanks folks!............


----------



## JL7

*A couple of workshop updates.....*

I still like those little workshop improvement projects…..they are a nice diversion when you are immersed in a big project. And most of them are created out of frustration with the current state…

Anyways, none of these are pretty but here goes:

You can't have enough clamps….BUT….it's always a challenge to figure out where to put them and how to access them quickly. In the basement it's logical to store stuff in the ceiling between the floor joists, but it is a little awkward to get the clamps down, especially the longer ones….

Had some leftover Fir flooring and built these really basic parts which will work for standard F-clamps or quick clamps:










Used some simple dowel construction and mounted them in the ceiling:










The concept is the clamps are stored at an angle which makes them much more accessible.










In the photo above, the rack in the front is fixed and can hold clamps from 12"-24" long and it only hangs down 4.5", so no problems with clearance in the shop. The rack behind it is hinged and can hold up to 36". It hangs down 10" from the ceiling which doesn't cause a problem most of the time, but could be a problem if I have to move the big band saw or whatever. So it can pushed up and locked in tight to the ceiling if necessary. The photo below shows the spring loaded lock mechanism:










The photo below is a shot right above the workbench, which includes one of the new clamp racks, an angled shelf thing, a simple piece of sheet metal angle for tape measures, and a mag bar mounted at an angle for easier access:










Here's the angled mag bar:










Also in front of the bench is the bench puck dispenser, which is 3" PVC cut and shaped and mounted to a piece of pine:



















It works like a Pez dispenser, but to be honest….by design, the pucks don't really want to slide out easily….but it still works..

I've been building my own dowels and when I setup to cut dowels, I cut a bunch….which causes the next problem…..what to do with all those dowels. It's ugly but effective, a combination of PVC and flex hose scraps and a few labels and the dowels are sorted by size, again, hanging from the ceiling:










One more ceiling mod, and an idea I stole from my Dad, the drill and impact driver holder. which is just holes that fit the chucks:










I have the Ryobi One+ drills and things and just got the battery charger recall…..which is scary to say the least when they can suddenly burst into flames. Either way, I've never liked to keep the chargers plugged in when not in use, but sometimes you just forget. My new solution is to mount the chargers right next the door so it's the last thing I see when leaving the shop and hopefully I remember to unplug them…..and for the record, the recalled charger is gone:










Also beefed up the dust collection on the big band saw and the router table…..kind of ugly, but works well and both have quick dis-connect fittings:





































Now they both have 4" fittings. The band saw gets a new port right under the table and the router table has an optional 3" gate for the fence. Form follows function here…..

Lastly, got a bunch free (odd sized) chunks of 1" MDF and they make great tool holders for the French cleat system…..here's one for the drum sander:










Enough ramblings…...thanks for looking…..


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *A couple of workshop updates.....*
> 
> I still like those little workshop improvement projects…..they are a nice diversion when you are immersed in a big project. And most of them are created out of frustration with the current state…
> 
> Anyways, none of these are pretty but here goes:
> 
> You can't have enough clamps….BUT….it's always a challenge to figure out where to put them and how to access them quickly. In the basement it's logical to store stuff in the ceiling between the floor joists, but it is a little awkward to get the clamps down, especially the longer ones….
> 
> Had some leftover Fir flooring and built these really basic parts which will work for standard F-clamps or quick clamps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some simple dowel construction and mounted them in the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The concept is the clamps are stored at an angle which makes them much more accessible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, the rack in the front is fixed and can hold clamps from 12"-24" long and it only hangs down 4.5", so no problems with clearance in the shop. The rack behind it is hinged and can hold up to 36". It hangs down 10" from the ceiling which doesn't cause a problem most of the time, but could be a problem if I have to move the big band saw or whatever. So it can pushed up and locked in tight to the ceiling if necessary. The photo below shows the spring loaded lock mechanism:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below is a shot right above the workbench, which includes one of the new clamp racks, an angled shelf thing, a simple piece of sheet metal angle for tape measures, and a mag bar mounted at an angle for easier access:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the angled mag bar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in front of the bench is the bench puck dispenser, which is 3" PVC cut and shaped and mounted to a piece of pine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works like a Pez dispenser, but to be honest….by design, the pucks don't really want to slide out easily….but it still works..
> 
> I've been building my own dowels and when I setup to cut dowels, I cut a bunch….which causes the next problem…..what to do with all those dowels. It's ugly but effective, a combination of PVC and flex hose scraps and a few labels and the dowels are sorted by size, again, hanging from the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more ceiling mod, and an idea I stole from my Dad, the drill and impact driver holder. which is just holes that fit the chucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Ryobi One+ drills and things and just got the battery charger recall…..which is scary to say the least when they can suddenly burst into flames. Either way, I've never liked to keep the chargers plugged in when not in use, but sometimes you just forget. My new solution is to mount the chargers right next the door so it's the last thing I see when leaving the shop and hopefully I remember to unplug them…..and for the record, the recalled charger is gone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also beefed up the dust collection on the big band saw and the router table…..kind of ugly, but works well and both have quick dis-connect fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now they both have 4" fittings. The band saw gets a new port right under the table and the router table has an optional 3" gate for the fence. Form follows function here…..
> 
> Lastly, got a bunch free (odd sized) chunks of 1" MDF and they make great tool holders for the French cleat system…..here's one for the drum sander:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enough ramblings…...thanks for looking…..


Man is your shop cool. You got stuff and places to put it all.
What a fun place to work that must be.

Steve


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *A couple of workshop updates.....*
> 
> I still like those little workshop improvement projects…..they are a nice diversion when you are immersed in a big project. And most of them are created out of frustration with the current state…
> 
> Anyways, none of these are pretty but here goes:
> 
> You can't have enough clamps….BUT….it's always a challenge to figure out where to put them and how to access them quickly. In the basement it's logical to store stuff in the ceiling between the floor joists, but it is a little awkward to get the clamps down, especially the longer ones….
> 
> Had some leftover Fir flooring and built these really basic parts which will work for standard F-clamps or quick clamps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some simple dowel construction and mounted them in the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The concept is the clamps are stored at an angle which makes them much more accessible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, the rack in the front is fixed and can hold clamps from 12"-24" long and it only hangs down 4.5", so no problems with clearance in the shop. The rack behind it is hinged and can hold up to 36". It hangs down 10" from the ceiling which doesn't cause a problem most of the time, but could be a problem if I have to move the big band saw or whatever. So it can pushed up and locked in tight to the ceiling if necessary. The photo below shows the spring loaded lock mechanism:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below is a shot right above the workbench, which includes one of the new clamp racks, an angled shelf thing, a simple piece of sheet metal angle for tape measures, and a mag bar mounted at an angle for easier access:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the angled mag bar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in front of the bench is the bench puck dispenser, which is 3" PVC cut and shaped and mounted to a piece of pine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works like a Pez dispenser, but to be honest….by design, the pucks don't really want to slide out easily….but it still works..
> 
> I've been building my own dowels and when I setup to cut dowels, I cut a bunch….which causes the next problem…..what to do with all those dowels. It's ugly but effective, a combination of PVC and flex hose scraps and a few labels and the dowels are sorted by size, again, hanging from the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more ceiling mod, and an idea I stole from my Dad, the drill and impact driver holder. which is just holes that fit the chucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Ryobi One+ drills and things and just got the battery charger recall…..which is scary to say the least when they can suddenly burst into flames. Either way, I've never liked to keep the chargers plugged in when not in use, but sometimes you just forget. My new solution is to mount the chargers right next the door so it's the last thing I see when leaving the shop and hopefully I remember to unplug them…..and for the record, the recalled charger is gone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also beefed up the dust collection on the big band saw and the router table…..kind of ugly, but works well and both have quick dis-connect fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now they both have 4" fittings. The band saw gets a new port right under the table and the router table has an optional 3" gate for the fence. Form follows function here…..
> 
> Lastly, got a bunch free (odd sized) chunks of 1" MDF and they make great tool holders for the French cleat system…..here's one for the drum sander:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enough ramblings…...thanks for looking…..


Looks like good use of space, materials on hand and brain power.
Anything that helps to organize the shop, improve efficiency or improve dust collection is a great thing….
Looks be damned!!!


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

JL7 said:


> *A couple of workshop updates.....*
> 
> I still like those little workshop improvement projects…..they are a nice diversion when you are immersed in a big project. And most of them are created out of frustration with the current state…
> 
> Anyways, none of these are pretty but here goes:
> 
> You can't have enough clamps….BUT….it's always a challenge to figure out where to put them and how to access them quickly. In the basement it's logical to store stuff in the ceiling between the floor joists, but it is a little awkward to get the clamps down, especially the longer ones….
> 
> Had some leftover Fir flooring and built these really basic parts which will work for standard F-clamps or quick clamps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some simple dowel construction and mounted them in the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The concept is the clamps are stored at an angle which makes them much more accessible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, the rack in the front is fixed and can hold clamps from 12"-24" long and it only hangs down 4.5", so no problems with clearance in the shop. The rack behind it is hinged and can hold up to 36". It hangs down 10" from the ceiling which doesn't cause a problem most of the time, but could be a problem if I have to move the big band saw or whatever. So it can pushed up and locked in tight to the ceiling if necessary. The photo below shows the spring loaded lock mechanism:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below is a shot right above the workbench, which includes one of the new clamp racks, an angled shelf thing, a simple piece of sheet metal angle for tape measures, and a mag bar mounted at an angle for easier access:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the angled mag bar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in front of the bench is the bench puck dispenser, which is 3" PVC cut and shaped and mounted to a piece of pine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works like a Pez dispenser, but to be honest….by design, the pucks don't really want to slide out easily….but it still works..
> 
> I've been building my own dowels and when I setup to cut dowels, I cut a bunch….which causes the next problem…..what to do with all those dowels. It's ugly but effective, a combination of PVC and flex hose scraps and a few labels and the dowels are sorted by size, again, hanging from the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more ceiling mod, and an idea I stole from my Dad, the drill and impact driver holder. which is just holes that fit the chucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Ryobi One+ drills and things and just got the battery charger recall…..which is scary to say the least when they can suddenly burst into flames. Either way, I've never liked to keep the chargers plugged in when not in use, but sometimes you just forget. My new solution is to mount the chargers right next the door so it's the last thing I see when leaving the shop and hopefully I remember to unplug them…..and for the record, the recalled charger is gone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also beefed up the dust collection on the big band saw and the router table…..kind of ugly, but works well and both have quick dis-connect fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now they both have 4" fittings. The band saw gets a new port right under the table and the router table has an optional 3" gate for the fence. Form follows function here…..
> 
> Lastly, got a bunch free (odd sized) chunks of 1" MDF and they make great tool holders for the French cleat system…..here's one for the drum sander:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enough ramblings…...thanks for looking…..


Jeff thats a shop and a half there , love the clamp rack ,the holder made out of scrap MDF got to use that thans for sharing 
very cleaver ,a place for every thing and every thing in its place,i love it as i spend a lot of time looking for stuff


----------



## patron

JL7 said:


> *A couple of workshop updates.....*
> 
> I still like those little workshop improvement projects…..they are a nice diversion when you are immersed in a big project. And most of them are created out of frustration with the current state…
> 
> Anyways, none of these are pretty but here goes:
> 
> You can't have enough clamps….BUT….it's always a challenge to figure out where to put them and how to access them quickly. In the basement it's logical to store stuff in the ceiling between the floor joists, but it is a little awkward to get the clamps down, especially the longer ones….
> 
> Had some leftover Fir flooring and built these really basic parts which will work for standard F-clamps or quick clamps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some simple dowel construction and mounted them in the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The concept is the clamps are stored at an angle which makes them much more accessible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, the rack in the front is fixed and can hold clamps from 12"-24" long and it only hangs down 4.5", so no problems with clearance in the shop. The rack behind it is hinged and can hold up to 36". It hangs down 10" from the ceiling which doesn't cause a problem most of the time, but could be a problem if I have to move the big band saw or whatever. So it can pushed up and locked in tight to the ceiling if necessary. The photo below shows the spring loaded lock mechanism:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below is a shot right above the workbench, which includes one of the new clamp racks, an angled shelf thing, a simple piece of sheet metal angle for tape measures, and a mag bar mounted at an angle for easier access:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the angled mag bar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in front of the bench is the bench puck dispenser, which is 3" PVC cut and shaped and mounted to a piece of pine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works like a Pez dispenser, but to be honest….by design, the pucks don't really want to slide out easily….but it still works..
> 
> I've been building my own dowels and when I setup to cut dowels, I cut a bunch….which causes the next problem…..what to do with all those dowels. It's ugly but effective, a combination of PVC and flex hose scraps and a few labels and the dowels are sorted by size, again, hanging from the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more ceiling mod, and an idea I stole from my Dad, the drill and impact driver holder. which is just holes that fit the chucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Ryobi One+ drills and things and just got the battery charger recall…..which is scary to say the least when they can suddenly burst into flames. Either way, I've never liked to keep the chargers plugged in when not in use, but sometimes you just forget. My new solution is to mount the chargers right next the door so it's the last thing I see when leaving the shop and hopefully I remember to unplug them…..and for the record, the recalled charger is gone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also beefed up the dust collection on the big band saw and the router table…..kind of ugly, but works well and both have quick dis-connect fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now they both have 4" fittings. The band saw gets a new port right under the table and the router table has an optional 3" gate for the fence. Form follows function here…..
> 
> Lastly, got a bunch free (odd sized) chunks of 1" MDF and they make great tool holders for the French cleat system…..here's one for the drum sander:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enough ramblings…...thanks for looking…..


when you get a transporter
a tractor beam
and a cloaking device
(or at least a coat rack)

you will be good to go
and explore
the rest of the universe

a real inspiration jeff


----------



## stefang

JL7 said:


> *A couple of workshop updates.....*
> 
> I still like those little workshop improvement projects…..they are a nice diversion when you are immersed in a big project. And most of them are created out of frustration with the current state…
> 
> Anyways, none of these are pretty but here goes:
> 
> You can't have enough clamps….BUT….it's always a challenge to figure out where to put them and how to access them quickly. In the basement it's logical to store stuff in the ceiling between the floor joists, but it is a little awkward to get the clamps down, especially the longer ones….
> 
> Had some leftover Fir flooring and built these really basic parts which will work for standard F-clamps or quick clamps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some simple dowel construction and mounted them in the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The concept is the clamps are stored at an angle which makes them much more accessible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, the rack in the front is fixed and can hold clamps from 12"-24" long and it only hangs down 4.5", so no problems with clearance in the shop. The rack behind it is hinged and can hold up to 36". It hangs down 10" from the ceiling which doesn't cause a problem most of the time, but could be a problem if I have to move the big band saw or whatever. So it can pushed up and locked in tight to the ceiling if necessary. The photo below shows the spring loaded lock mechanism:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below is a shot right above the workbench, which includes one of the new clamp racks, an angled shelf thing, a simple piece of sheet metal angle for tape measures, and a mag bar mounted at an angle for easier access:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the angled mag bar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in front of the bench is the bench puck dispenser, which is 3" PVC cut and shaped and mounted to a piece of pine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works like a Pez dispenser, but to be honest….by design, the pucks don't really want to slide out easily….but it still works..
> 
> I've been building my own dowels and when I setup to cut dowels, I cut a bunch….which causes the next problem…..what to do with all those dowels. It's ugly but effective, a combination of PVC and flex hose scraps and a few labels and the dowels are sorted by size, again, hanging from the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more ceiling mod, and an idea I stole from my Dad, the drill and impact driver holder. which is just holes that fit the chucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Ryobi One+ drills and things and just got the battery charger recall…..which is scary to say the least when they can suddenly burst into flames. Either way, I've never liked to keep the chargers plugged in when not in use, but sometimes you just forget. My new solution is to mount the chargers right next the door so it's the last thing I see when leaving the shop and hopefully I remember to unplug them…..and for the record, the recalled charger is gone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also beefed up the dust collection on the big band saw and the router table…..kind of ugly, but works well and both have quick dis-connect fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now they both have 4" fittings. The band saw gets a new port right under the table and the router table has an optional 3" gate for the fence. Form follows function here…..
> 
> Lastly, got a bunch free (odd sized) chunks of 1" MDF and they make great tool holders for the French cleat system…..here's one for the drum sander:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enough ramblings…...thanks for looking…..


Almost makes me wish I didn't have a paneled ceiling in my shop. Tons of storage up there. Great ideas.


----------



## phtaylor36

JL7 said:


> *A couple of workshop updates.....*
> 
> I still like those little workshop improvement projects…..they are a nice diversion when you are immersed in a big project. And most of them are created out of frustration with the current state…
> 
> Anyways, none of these are pretty but here goes:
> 
> You can't have enough clamps….BUT….it's always a challenge to figure out where to put them and how to access them quickly. In the basement it's logical to store stuff in the ceiling between the floor joists, but it is a little awkward to get the clamps down, especially the longer ones….
> 
> Had some leftover Fir flooring and built these really basic parts which will work for standard F-clamps or quick clamps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some simple dowel construction and mounted them in the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The concept is the clamps are stored at an angle which makes them much more accessible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, the rack in the front is fixed and can hold clamps from 12"-24" long and it only hangs down 4.5", so no problems with clearance in the shop. The rack behind it is hinged and can hold up to 36". It hangs down 10" from the ceiling which doesn't cause a problem most of the time, but could be a problem if I have to move the big band saw or whatever. So it can pushed up and locked in tight to the ceiling if necessary. The photo below shows the spring loaded lock mechanism:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below is a shot right above the workbench, which includes one of the new clamp racks, an angled shelf thing, a simple piece of sheet metal angle for tape measures, and a mag bar mounted at an angle for easier access:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the angled mag bar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in front of the bench is the bench puck dispenser, which is 3" PVC cut and shaped and mounted to a piece of pine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works like a Pez dispenser, but to be honest….by design, the pucks don't really want to slide out easily….but it still works..
> 
> I've been building my own dowels and when I setup to cut dowels, I cut a bunch….which causes the next problem…..what to do with all those dowels. It's ugly but effective, a combination of PVC and flex hose scraps and a few labels and the dowels are sorted by size, again, hanging from the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more ceiling mod, and an idea I stole from my Dad, the drill and impact driver holder. which is just holes that fit the chucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Ryobi One+ drills and things and just got the battery charger recall…..which is scary to say the least when they can suddenly burst into flames. Either way, I've never liked to keep the chargers plugged in when not in use, but sometimes you just forget. My new solution is to mount the chargers right next the door so it's the last thing I see when leaving the shop and hopefully I remember to unplug them…..and for the record, the recalled charger is gone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also beefed up the dust collection on the big band saw and the router table…..kind of ugly, but works well and both have quick dis-connect fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now they both have 4" fittings. The band saw gets a new port right under the table and the router table has an optional 3" gate for the fence. Form follows function here…..
> 
> Lastly, got a bunch free (odd sized) chunks of 1" MDF and they make great tool holders for the French cleat system…..here's one for the drum sander:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enough ramblings…...thanks for looking…..


Looks fantastic, great ideas.


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *A couple of workshop updates.....*
> 
> I still like those little workshop improvement projects…..they are a nice diversion when you are immersed in a big project. And most of them are created out of frustration with the current state…
> 
> Anyways, none of these are pretty but here goes:
> 
> You can't have enough clamps….BUT….it's always a challenge to figure out where to put them and how to access them quickly. In the basement it's logical to store stuff in the ceiling between the floor joists, but it is a little awkward to get the clamps down, especially the longer ones….
> 
> Had some leftover Fir flooring and built these really basic parts which will work for standard F-clamps or quick clamps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some simple dowel construction and mounted them in the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The concept is the clamps are stored at an angle which makes them much more accessible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, the rack in the front is fixed and can hold clamps from 12"-24" long and it only hangs down 4.5", so no problems with clearance in the shop. The rack behind it is hinged and can hold up to 36". It hangs down 10" from the ceiling which doesn't cause a problem most of the time, but could be a problem if I have to move the big band saw or whatever. So it can pushed up and locked in tight to the ceiling if necessary. The photo below shows the spring loaded lock mechanism:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below is a shot right above the workbench, which includes one of the new clamp racks, an angled shelf thing, a simple piece of sheet metal angle for tape measures, and a mag bar mounted at an angle for easier access:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the angled mag bar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in front of the bench is the bench puck dispenser, which is 3" PVC cut and shaped and mounted to a piece of pine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works like a Pez dispenser, but to be honest….by design, the pucks don't really want to slide out easily….but it still works..
> 
> I've been building my own dowels and when I setup to cut dowels, I cut a bunch….which causes the next problem…..what to do with all those dowels. It's ugly but effective, a combination of PVC and flex hose scraps and a few labels and the dowels are sorted by size, again, hanging from the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more ceiling mod, and an idea I stole from my Dad, the drill and impact driver holder. which is just holes that fit the chucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Ryobi One+ drills and things and just got the battery charger recall…..which is scary to say the least when they can suddenly burst into flames. Either way, I've never liked to keep the chargers plugged in when not in use, but sometimes you just forget. My new solution is to mount the chargers right next the door so it's the last thing I see when leaving the shop and hopefully I remember to unplug them…..and for the record, the recalled charger is gone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also beefed up the dust collection on the big band saw and the router table…..kind of ugly, but works well and both have quick dis-connect fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now they both have 4" fittings. The band saw gets a new port right under the table and the router table has an optional 3" gate for the fence. Form follows function here…..
> 
> Lastly, got a bunch free (odd sized) chunks of 1" MDF and they make great tool holders for the French cleat system…..here's one for the drum sander:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enough ramblings…...thanks for looking…..


Jeff it looks like you are having to do what i do. Use every absolute spare bit of space as smartly as you can. And you have some cool tool racks.
Nice stuff.


----------



## lanwater

JL7 said:


> *A couple of workshop updates.....*
> 
> I still like those little workshop improvement projects…..they are a nice diversion when you are immersed in a big project. And most of them are created out of frustration with the current state…
> 
> Anyways, none of these are pretty but here goes:
> 
> You can't have enough clamps….BUT….it's always a challenge to figure out where to put them and how to access them quickly. In the basement it's logical to store stuff in the ceiling between the floor joists, but it is a little awkward to get the clamps down, especially the longer ones….
> 
> Had some leftover Fir flooring and built these really basic parts which will work for standard F-clamps or quick clamps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some simple dowel construction and mounted them in the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The concept is the clamps are stored at an angle which makes them much more accessible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, the rack in the front is fixed and can hold clamps from 12"-24" long and it only hangs down 4.5", so no problems with clearance in the shop. The rack behind it is hinged and can hold up to 36". It hangs down 10" from the ceiling which doesn't cause a problem most of the time, but could be a problem if I have to move the big band saw or whatever. So it can pushed up and locked in tight to the ceiling if necessary. The photo below shows the spring loaded lock mechanism:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below is a shot right above the workbench, which includes one of the new clamp racks, an angled shelf thing, a simple piece of sheet metal angle for tape measures, and a mag bar mounted at an angle for easier access:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the angled mag bar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in front of the bench is the bench puck dispenser, which is 3" PVC cut and shaped and mounted to a piece of pine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works like a Pez dispenser, but to be honest….by design, the pucks don't really want to slide out easily….but it still works..
> 
> I've been building my own dowels and when I setup to cut dowels, I cut a bunch….which causes the next problem…..what to do with all those dowels. It's ugly but effective, a combination of PVC and flex hose scraps and a few labels and the dowels are sorted by size, again, hanging from the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more ceiling mod, and an idea I stole from my Dad, the drill and impact driver holder. which is just holes that fit the chucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Ryobi One+ drills and things and just got the battery charger recall…..which is scary to say the least when they can suddenly burst into flames. Either way, I've never liked to keep the chargers plugged in when not in use, but sometimes you just forget. My new solution is to mount the chargers right next the door so it's the last thing I see when leaving the shop and hopefully I remember to unplug them…..and for the record, the recalled charger is gone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also beefed up the dust collection on the big band saw and the router table…..kind of ugly, but works well and both have quick dis-connect fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now they both have 4" fittings. The band saw gets a new port right under the table and the router table has an optional 3" gate for the fence. Form follows function here…..
> 
> Lastly, got a bunch free (odd sized) chunks of 1" MDF and they make great tool holders for the French cleat system…..here's one for the drum sander:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enough ramblings…...thanks for looking…..


Cool Shop you got. very well organized.
I picked up some ideas.

Thanks!


----------



## Kentuk55

JL7 said:


> *A couple of workshop updates.....*
> 
> I still like those little workshop improvement projects…..they are a nice diversion when you are immersed in a big project. And most of them are created out of frustration with the current state…
> 
> Anyways, none of these are pretty but here goes:
> 
> You can't have enough clamps….BUT….it's always a challenge to figure out where to put them and how to access them quickly. In the basement it's logical to store stuff in the ceiling between the floor joists, but it is a little awkward to get the clamps down, especially the longer ones….
> 
> Had some leftover Fir flooring and built these really basic parts which will work for standard F-clamps or quick clamps:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used some simple dowel construction and mounted them in the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The concept is the clamps are stored at an angle which makes them much more accessible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the photo above, the rack in the front is fixed and can hold clamps from 12"-24" long and it only hangs down 4.5", so no problems with clearance in the shop. The rack behind it is hinged and can hold up to 36". It hangs down 10" from the ceiling which doesn't cause a problem most of the time, but could be a problem if I have to move the big band saw or whatever. So it can pushed up and locked in tight to the ceiling if necessary. The photo below shows the spring loaded lock mechanism:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The photo below is a shot right above the workbench, which includes one of the new clamp racks, an angled shelf thing, a simple piece of sheet metal angle for tape measures, and a mag bar mounted at an angle for easier access:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the angled mag bar:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in front of the bench is the bench puck dispenser, which is 3" PVC cut and shaped and mounted to a piece of pine:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works like a Pez dispenser, but to be honest….by design, the pucks don't really want to slide out easily….but it still works..
> 
> I've been building my own dowels and when I setup to cut dowels, I cut a bunch….which causes the next problem…..what to do with all those dowels. It's ugly but effective, a combination of PVC and flex hose scraps and a few labels and the dowels are sorted by size, again, hanging from the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more ceiling mod, and an idea I stole from my Dad, the drill and impact driver holder. which is just holes that fit the chucks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Ryobi One+ drills and things and just got the battery charger recall…..which is scary to say the least when they can suddenly burst into flames. Either way, I've never liked to keep the chargers plugged in when not in use, but sometimes you just forget. My new solution is to mount the chargers right next the door so it's the last thing I see when leaving the shop and hopefully I remember to unplug them…..and for the record, the recalled charger is gone:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also beefed up the dust collection on the big band saw and the router table…..kind of ugly, but works well and both have quick dis-connect fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now they both have 4" fittings. The band saw gets a new port right under the table and the router table has an optional 3" gate for the fence. Form follows function here…..
> 
> Lastly, got a bunch free (odd sized) chunks of 1" MDF and they make great tool holders for the French cleat system…..here's one for the drum sander:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enough ramblings…...thanks for looking…..


All, fantastic ideas, Jeff. Luv the Pez dispenser, way kool


----------



## JL7

*Saw Blade Jackets*

Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.










When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...

Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:










Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:










At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:



















Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:



















The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:



















Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:










Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..

Thanks for looking.


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Wow Jeff. 
You are one organized guy. I like the price though. And having individual jackets is a great idea.

Speaking of sharpening… where do you get your blades sharpened?

Steve


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Steve, So far, I've just used a local shop for sharpening, but they didn't do a very good job. Next time, I think I'll bite the bullet and ship them to Forrest or Ridge Carbide. How about you?


----------



## Handtooler

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Very nice and super intuitive! I'll follow suit.


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


That is one case of serious OCD…

*O*rganized

*C*arbide blade

*D*epository

Very impressive organizational skills you have. I especially like the sharpening record, or would that be LP album!!!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Russell…...I was going to use hardboard when it occurred to me I have TONS of useless pegboard…..enjoy…

Randy…..what can I say…...except, were you born this way?? You have a way with words…....thanks…..I appreciate it….funny stuff…


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Nice bit of work Jeff. I can say I never seen blades stored this way.
I want to see the condition of your sock drawer.


----------



## Kentuk55

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


That's a nifty idea for those small pieces of pegboard. Good thinkin.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Dave - the sock drawer IS a disaster along with the rest of the house, except for the shop…....priorities! Thanks for stopping by…..

Roger - those small pieces started out as a 4' x 6' piece! They have purpose now, besides firewood…...Thanks man….


----------



## jeffbranch

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Cool idea!


----------



## djang000

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


I really do like the idea! Something to work on between two glue-up. Jeff, I need to ask; where did you manage to get a custom branding iron for you JL logo? Love it! 

sam


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Jeff!

Sam - the branding iron was built in the tool room where I used to work…..simple but effective…..thanks!


----------



## boxcarmarty

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


I'll take a dozen assorted 10 and 12 inch…..


----------



## whitebeast88

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


great idea and build jeff.been wanting to build something to hold my blades.so if you don't mind i might borrow your plan!!!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Marty - the bill is in the mail…....

Marty (2) - borrow away…..thanks…....


----------



## boxcarmarty

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Damn, Did I just pass myself???


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Scary to think about it…...really..


----------



## boxcarmarty

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


It was the beast that had me confused…..


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Really good idea Jeff! And of course the execution of the idea was flawless. Those really appeal to my overdeveloped sense of organization.

But I'm really attached to my PINK blade storage case! Now I'm conflicted.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Andy…..What's the PINK storage?? I don't recall seeing that in the shop tour?


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff, It's there on top of the big orange cabinet. I catch a lot of flak over it but it was a granddaughter project and she wanted to paint it "Disney Pink". I've kinda grown fond of it!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


I got it Andy…....since it's your granddaughter then your decision is already done! Still love your shop…...watched the video again…...thanks…...

Here's the link for those who haven't seen it:


----------



## DonBroussard

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Very slick, Jeff! When I get a few more 10" blades, I think your project idea might work for me! Did you make a custom one for a dado set too?


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Don…....nothing for the dado set. I'm spoiled, I have a dado king from a garage sale with the cool orange holder thing…...but clearly you could make whatever you want…...If you need some pegboard, I've got plenty more!


----------



## dbhost

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Wow, that is a fantastic idea. I never would have thought of LP jackets to begin with… I am old enough they aren't foreign to me, but young enough they were pretty much phased out for cassette and then CD… I always liked going to record stores and checking out album cover art though. The pity with digital distribution is going to be the death of quality album cover art…


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


db - I miss the cover art too, and reading the goofy little notes on the back cover….thanks.


----------



## NormG

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


What a great idea for the re-use of the already present pegboard, thank you for sharing


----------



## lanwater

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Excellent idea Jeff.

Another idea of yours I will borrow.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## MattIsBuffalo

JL7 said:


> *Saw Blade Jackets*
> 
> Basically like LP jackets…...but peg board. It did occur to me that I could have used old Rolling Stones or Jim Hendrix record jackets, but that thought was too late.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I moved into this house, there was a bunch of pegboard on the walls of the little shop. Don't use much pegboard since the french cleat system went in, so it was nice to find a use for this otherwise worthless material…...
> 
> Ripped a stack of pegboard into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took a third of the stack and screwed it together so I could cut out the center section in one setup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At some point, it occurred to me that the shortest 23 gauge pins for the nailer I had were 1/2", some I cut some thin strips for the back so the pins wouldn't go through and used a simple assembly jig - this is the assembly progression and used the pin nailer on both sides:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned them up on the spindel and belt sanders:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idea here is to build one for each blade and keep track of the sharpening history…....and built a simple containment in the corner of one of the shop cart drawers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one the jackets is 2x deep for the 10" sanding disc - which uses 2 of the center inserts in lieu of the thin strips - here is the comparative photo:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be handy…...you can pull them out of the drawer and carry them around if so inclined…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Hah, I had this idea earlier this evening when I was out in my shop looking at the stack of dull or dirty blades I have sitting on my bench. I have to clean them to find out which it is, but the thought occurred to me that I needed a better way to store them and I had come up with something similar just haven't executed it. I have a feeling yours turned out way nicer than mine would anyway! Great job!


----------



## JL7

*The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*

Or nut jig for short…....

I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").










Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.

Also picked up his book:










And also this little template for making hex nuts:










Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:










With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:










The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):










Here are some shots in the saw:



















The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.

The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:




























And you get this:










Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.

If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..

Thanks for looking.


----------



## GaryC

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Cool tutorial, Jeff. From now on, everything you make will be screw-together….right?


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thats right Gary…..or more correctly…..*righty tighty*........Thanks!


----------



## patron

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


nice rig there jeff

can't wait to see what you do with them
they would make some nice accents
for some furniture builds
(bet you knew this already)


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Hey David, thanks.

I have ideas bouncing around, so time will tell!

This was the second thing I built, I call it the "*Recline and Surf*" :










And it's technically "furniture" so yes!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Also built some hand clamps from the plans in the Beall book. However, I mis-drilled a few holes so they are not exactly the same! But they actually work quite well:


----------



## jfk4032

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Too cool Jeff! You're accumulating some very fine tools there. Thanks for the tutorial, could be a future project with this setup.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Joel, cool tools keep my mind busy! Lot's of possibilities….....


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Love it.
You're a nut.
This project is nuts.
The problem is the loose nut behind the saw.
Can you make these?
For miss-matched holes









for cockeyed holes









Ok i'm done.
Jeff cool tool and nice jigs.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Dave….you gotta quit surfing the google images at work!! LOL….you are right about the nut behind the saw though….

Thanks man.


----------



## SASmith

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


You are one clever guy.
Thanks for sharing.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Thanks Scott….you're a problem solver yourself…...appreciate it..


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Wow. That looks like fun. 
Not sure what to do with it, but it is so cool.

I like the clamps.
Steve


----------



## Kentuk55

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Wonderful


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


I believe you may have cursed your wood working future.
All things you do from here on out….
Could all just be screw ups!!!

I'm looking forward to what your "twisted" mind comes up with….


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Steve…..does everything need a purpose? Thanks buddy.

Roger…...Any Guinness left? Stay away from the hammock…. 

Randy…...many screwed up things to come….... thanks for stopping….wait, you're supposed to be building projects!


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Jeff, You are the "Jig Master"!

Those nuts look factory from here. I'll place my order as soon as I come up with a use for them.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *The Wooden Hex Nut Jig....*
> 
> Or nut jig for short…....
> 
> I picked up the Beall wood threader using up some Christmas gift cards…..it's the one with inserts and taps for 3 threads (1/2", 3/4" and 1").
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mr. Beall himself has some great videos available if you want to see that work.
> 
> Also picked up his book:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And also this little template for making hex nuts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using the template still requires you to cut the nuts free (somehow) and I used the band saw and belt sander for the task. Unfortunately, I'm not that good at doing that! The one on the right (Below) is using that process and the one on the left is with the new jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the new jig, you can make several nuts from one long piece of stock (just like the old way) but you can cut them free with the table saw (or whatever) into squares:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jig I made is setup for the RAS, but you could easily put a runner under it and use it on the table saw. It has 3 different locations on it (one for each size):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some shots in the saw:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The square blanks start an 1/8" or so oversize and are dropped onto a dowel and secured by a Bessey auto adjust toggle at a 30 degree angle. Keep rotating and cutting until you trim all six sides.
> 
> The next trick is right out of Beall's book - make an adapter for the drill press and use a ROS to soften the edge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you get this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind, the jig is not ultra precise, and it tends to leave the edges tapered a bit, due to the side clamping pressure, but it's pretty quick and easy to build and use. And the results look good, which is what mostly counts here.
> 
> If anyone is interested, I can put more detail in here…..
> 
> Thanks for looking.


Hey Andy - Not the jig master by a long shot…..but if you want to place an order…...OK! I'm only open on Sunday evenings after 11pm…..hope that works…


----------



## JL7

*New Sharpening Jigs*

Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.

I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:










Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.

I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:










2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:










Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:



















Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:










My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….

Jig Fail:










Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:










So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:










The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:










In action:










Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:



















This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!

I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:










Thanks for looking…..


----------



## Gene01

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Pretty sharp, Jeff.
Pun intended.
I won't tell.


----------



## boxcarmarty

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Love the John Deere lathe…..


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Thanks Gene…..shhhh…..

Marty….I guess one more for the JD collection, huh?


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Great looking station….
Bet it works as good as it looks!!!

I'm humbled that I could inspire "The Cutting Board King"....
Just be sure not to be inspired by my "Extreme Procrastination Syndrome"!!!

Ya know Jeff, just like *74*....
Ya gonna ruin my reputation!!! ;^)


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


OK, so the cats out of the bag…...(whatever that means?).......

Randy, there has been a bit of motivational block going on lately, but appreciate the ideas…....as far as how it works, not really sure yet. The grinding thing is a bit mystical yet. Reground the bowl gouge a few times during the "experiment" turning, and still had a few catches…..the tool is sharp, but the turning technique needs work.

I am following the 45-45-45 theory…there's a video out there somewhere on that, can't remember where right now…..

Thanks man.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Nice Jeff.
You all making these nice jig setups have me thinking maybe I need to rework my sharpening station.


----------



## JulianLech

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Great grinder base & jog. Added to my favorites.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Hey William - thanks for stopping….Have you mastered the bowl gouge??

Julian - much appreciated!


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


I don't know about "mastered", but I am getting good enough to do what I need to do.


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Jeff outstanding addition to the station.
Love it, fire engine red.
I'll bet even Stumpy will approve.
Play with the angles, everybody is a little different. 
I still haven't found "my" setting yet.
But I am close.
Your station is red and your project is red.
If you do have an accident you will never know.
And I hope that never happens.
Keep on truckin!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Good for you William, figuring it out…..still tryin' here…..

Hey Dave…...Saw Red…..reminds me of Sublime with Gwen Stafani:






Still trying to find the limits… 

Did flip it over and try some hollowing, but I'm done for now:


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Hey Jeff,
This station is getting way cool. Too red for me though - but I guess it is better than MDF colored.

I suck at bowl turning. Read a lot, but still need to go past some kind of wall to the other side. I just can't seem to get it and that is not what I am used to. I need to go back and try again.

Good job Sir. You are an inspiration.
Steve


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Thanks Steve…...I get it, or more correctly, I don't get it…...the bowl turning is a whole new world….....Thanks for stopping…


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Bowl turning is indeed a whole new world.
I find myself often these days while turning pens, but wishing I was instead working on a bowl.
This is my experience on turning bowls though. Bowls seem impossible. Then one day, if you practice and learn all you can, it just clicks and you have a "viola!" moment. After that, you wonder why you had so much trouble to begin with. 
I can't speak for everyone and what you may or may not get. For me, it was two things. One was finding THAT angle on my bowl gouges. It is a little different for everyone, but I have that one sweet spot between so steep that it catches, to so short it rubs, and that is the spot that cuts perfectly, for me. The other thing was learning to ride that bevel. I was bad about wanting to cut with the bevel not touching. This caused catches to react wildly and I felt the lathe was more in control than me. Once I learned to ride the bevel correctly, I felt I had control of the tool, the wood, and it was up to me to do what I pleased with it. 
From it all though, the best advice I can give to anyone wanting to turn bowls, or any hollow form, is this. Take your time and have fun. Don't be afraid to experiment. One day, when you get it, you'll wonder why it was so hard to begin with. Start with shallow bowls and learn the techniques before going to deep anything. Deep bowls can hurt you if you don't have the technique right. Read my blogs and the close calls I've had if you want to know how I know.

Dang, I need to turn a few more pens tomorrow. I may have to blow that off and chuck up a bowl or two.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Thanks William….I get it, sometimes I got the bevel just right, but turning those corners…..oh no…..

It's my first try so learning a bunch…appreciate the coaching…..I think one of those curved rests would be a good idea…....helps keep that bevel in check…..


----------



## doubleDD

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Great sharpening station. Love the versatility and color.


----------



## lanwater

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Cool Jig Jeff!
I was puzzled by the tracks at first, the pictures showed me the light.

What's the "45-45-45" theory.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Thanks man…...

I had to search the browser history for awhile but found it…..the 45-45-45 theory….

Warning, it's a long one…...and and I don't have the time marker on when he talks about the theory, it's all good, but he's at the lathe when he get's into the concept…..

EDIT - here's the LINK


----------



## waho6o9

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Great blog and responses.

Sharp tools and ride that bevel!

I just learned that a while back and had that epiphany
William was taking about.


----------



## lanwater

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


?

It looks like the missing link theory now


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Opps….added the link above!

Sorry bout that….


----------



## lanwater

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Thanks!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


You got it man…..


----------



## SASmith

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Sweet setup.
I could use something like this.


----------



## Kentuk55

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


WowZa Jeff. Now that's a sharpening station. In my favs. Thnx for posting


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Thanks Scott and Roger…...appreciate it….it's still a work in progress…...


----------



## lightcs1776

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Late to the party, I happened to see your sharpening jig while looking for additional example of the ellensworth jig. Nicely done. You've set yourself up a great system.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *New Sharpening Jigs*
> 
> Made a few more updates to the sharpening cart. Last cart update is HERE.
> 
> I was inspired by Randy (DIYaholic) with his blog HERE But don't tell him that, his head is already swollen…....here's the proof:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got some inspiration from Joey (joeysjunk) HERE for the t-track idea.
> 
> I got a hoard of free MDF, so that seemed like the way to go for the base. 3 layers glued together with a pair of 3/4" pockets for the "wolverine" style bars to slide through:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 coats of red paint and it kind of looks like one thick slab:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the t-track so the Veritas grinding jig can be added or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wolverine style jig for the sharpening the roughing gouge:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My first attempt at an Ellsworth style jig failed (it cracked) because I didn't pay attention to the grain direction….
> 
> Jig Fail:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second attempt, I just glued up 3 hard maple shorts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far, just built one jig for the 1/2" bowl gouge, using a 5/8" through hole, a 5/16"-18 threaded insert and bolt, and piece of 5/16" metal rod. I threaded the end to accept an acorn nut for the pivot. The other little block will set the chisel projection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The same little block will set the jig location in the grinder base:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In action:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also re-located the old drill used to power the strop, just behind the grinder. There are 2 short dowels in the grinder base to locate it and you can move it quick if need be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was all working up to the point of attempting to turn a bowl on the lathe…....and I must say I have a new found respect for bowl turners…..it's not as easy as it looks!!
> 
> I really need to find some green wood to practice on, but had this little piece of 4" x 4" of Redheart, so started rounding from the bottom up…....I had to walk away for now, watch a few more videos, or find a class…..but no one has gotten hurt yet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking…..


Should look familiar huh Chris? Thanks….....


----------



## JL7

*Moddin' the Table Saw.....*

This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:










First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:










Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.

I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.

The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..

*FRAME:*




























The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:










*STORAGE:*

There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:










One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:



















Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:




























*THE SAW:*

I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:










In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:



















I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.

The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:




























Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:










*ROUTER TABLES:*

There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:

This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):



















And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:



















The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…

*DUST COLLECTION:*

There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:










The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:










The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:



















*OTHER STUFF:*

The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:



















I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:



















Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:










Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....

Thanks for lookin'


----------



## rexb

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Awesome setup man! At first I thought it looked ridiculously expensive to build, but it sounds like you found everything on the cheap, and free 80/20 is just insane. Really nice work.


----------



## firefighterontheside

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Jeff, that is kick a$&! Looks great. You seem to have a talent for doing stuff like that, because it seems it didn't take long to do.


----------



## firefighterontheside

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Randy, are you reading or looking at the pictures?


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Thanks Rex. Yeah, it would be insanely expensive if I had to buy that material. I am always on the hunt for good deals though!

Hey Bill, thanks…..I've been working on this for a month…...


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Jeff,
Great looking TS/Router Station!!!
I have to say that I am jealous….
I would love to be able to work with some 80/20.
As Bill said, you have a gift/skill that is suited to builds like this, VERY IMPRESSIVE!!!

Bill,
I'm just looking at the pictures….
As my tablet reads me the web page!!!


----------



## SASmith

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


That is quite the upgrade.
Very impressive.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Photos are not showing up on my phone Jeff, but I'm adding it to my watch list just so I can come back to it when they get my internet back on. 
I know you're happy to have it done and I can't wait to see it.


----------



## lightcs1776

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Incredible build, Jeff. Everything looks extremely functional and well thought out. Outstanding.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Hey Randy, as cool as it seems, IMHO, the 80/20 is not that fun to work with…....it is kind of a PITA at times to be honest. But if cut right, it is stable and always square…....thanks buddy.

Scott, really appreciate it!

William, plenty of time…..no hurry.

Thanks Chris!


----------



## Andrewski

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Jeff, I'm at a lose for words.

Very we'll designed and executed.

Andy


----------



## ShaneA

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Impressive, your shop stuff is amazing. Really cool upgrades.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Thanks Andy…..much appreciated…..

Hey Shane, thanks for stopping by. What are you building these day?? Thanks….....


----------



## boxcarmarty

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Jeff, I think we need to re-purpose some of your time into my shop…..


----------



## jbschutz

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Great build, Jeff. I think you should be consulting with a saw manufacturer to incorporate some of the ideas you have integrated into this baby. I am jealous and in awe!


----------



## JayT

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Jeff, nice upgrade on the table saw station. I need to do something similar with my 113, though not springing for 80/20. Have you reinforced the right side of the saw to prevent the side flexing when you change the bevel? If so, how did you do it? Another project that needs done with my saw.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Marty…..I'm a little busy that day….otherwise…....

Thanks John, hopefully you can stop by to visit one of these days soon…...

Jay, I haven't reinforced the right side yet, but probably should. I would think a piece of hardwood on both sides would do the trick…..


----------



## ssnvet

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Really cool Jeff. It sure tuned out great!


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Jeff, WOW! That has to be the most customized/tricked out Craftsman 113 in captivity. All your work looks so "factory precise". You have a lot of different talents but your ability to design stuff is what I envy most.

Great job!


----------



## patron

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


what a great build jeff
you got the knack for sure
well thought out and fitted
it's like a good boat
'a place for everything
and everything in it's place'

shame about the casters
must have set your allowance back a day for sure
let me know
i can scrounge enough coins
to get you a celebration beer
maybe even 'old milwaukee's best'


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Thanks Matt!

Andy - the design process is something like watching paint dry….lot's of staring into space. This was mostly designed on the fly…...thanks!

David, the casters did sting a little…...but I did get 15% off at Woodcraft during their April Fools sale…...I'll take you up on the Old Milwaukee's Best…...maybe see ya soon? Thanks man.


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Jeff this is like a console off of the starship Enterprise.
It looks like it was off of a manufacturers production line.
This would be that tool i see in a catalog and drool over but just out of my price range.
Craftsmanship and planning are spot on.
I am impressed.
Will it make Margaretta's?


----------



## CFrye

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Wow, Jeff! I didn't understand most of what you wrote. It just looks and sounds amazing. And it only took youa month? Wow!


----------



## woodchuckerNJ

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


At first I thought wow that's too nice. But it's real nice.

Good job.. good ideas.


----------



## sausageking1

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Jeff….don't let anyone tell you different. ..THIS THING IS SICK!!! I'm totally jealous. Great workmanship and creativitY. Cant wait to see some projects come off of this thing.


----------



## firefighterontheside

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


If that things like the bridge of the enterprise, then you need a chair befitting Captain Kirk parked in front of it.


----------



## toeachhisown (Eddie)

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Jeff thats a station and a half there ,great design and really love the dust control features and the sliding out-feed boards i was wondering on that a incra fence is on my list .now i know thanks for sharing great job , come on down and get a cool one you deserve it ,


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Dave….sadly, it doesn't make margarita's…...but I'll look into that…or not! Thanks buddy…...

That's funny Candy…! I appreciate you stopping by….....

Thanks Jeff, appreciate it…

Sausage - welcome to LJ's and appreciate the comments…..

Bill, I think I'll file the captains chair right next to the margarita maker…..

Thanks Eddie….always trying to catch that dust…..and the Incra fence is really sweet, go for it when you can! I'll take you up on the cold one!


----------



## Doe

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Well thought out and extremely well appointed, with a place for everything. Amazing!


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Wow, what fun.
And people call me anal for building some wooden boxes with repurposed Ikea doors. This is insane.

I do like the thought of putting a blender in there for refreshments.

Well done Jeff. That looks great, and even the little rubber end-caps on the 8020. Neat.

Steve


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Thanks Doe!

Steve, it is a little over the top for sure, but I had the material, so why not! Thanks…...


----------



## rowdy

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Shazaaam, Jeff. Totally consistent with the work you do in general. Very well done…nice.


----------



## lanwater

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


I looked through it and then looked again…
amazing!
allow me to repeat: Amazing!!!!

That's better than professional Jeff.
You thought of every detail.
great work.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Finally able to see photos Jeff. 
Cabinet looks stronger than any thing you could find commercially, and more well thought out. 
I also think (because I have one) that in the long rum you'll be much happier with the 113 saw than anything you could find on the new market today. 
That is one helluva job you done there.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Hey Rowdy, nice hear from you…...hope you're getting some shop time…thanks.

Abbas - really appreciate it!

William, the 113 really has been a good saw and has enough power to to cut 12/4 hard maple, so that's the ticket….thanks man…..


----------



## fernandoindia

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Hi Jeff. Just stopped to say hello.

Now, would you ever end up your supply of maple and 80 20?

You end up with a gorgeous router and table saw .

I am a couple of thousand squared behind you. still need to finish my workbench .Though I can see come light coming. Not sure what kind.



















I remain looking forward for the coming changes. SUre I will carry on learning.

Take care


----------



## kiefer

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


WOW
That is one sweet looking setup pretty DELUX.
Now the only thing I can think of is for someone to place the motor between the trunnions and stop the alignment issues .
I had a saw like this and sold it because of that issue that I constantly tried to correct when I found a nearly new Shop Fox cabinet saw for $300.00 I jumped on it but it looks nothing like your beautiful GEM not even close .


----------



## Kentuk55

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Seriously beautifully done. Well engineered with lots of gr8 fabricated pieces n parts. Fantastic build, Jeff.


----------



## kdc68

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Clearly one the most cleaverly designed and implemented mods I've seen done to a table saw….VERY IMPRESSIVE and EXCEPTIONAL !


----------



## Nyle

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


This is awesome! I am just starting to restore an old Craftsman 113 and this is excellent inspiration! Where did you get all of the aluminum extrusion?


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Moddin' the Table Saw.....*
> 
> This is another project that I've been kicking around for awhile now. Kind of time consuming but think it will be a good one for the long run:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, this is an older Craftsman "113" contractor saw. I would much rather have a shiny new cabinet saw, but lack of power and funds are preventing that! Some of the mods were done earlier and here was the saw prior to this last round of changes. I've never cared for those sheet metal bases on those saws. Really hard to add storage, etc. Also, the router table on the left which is solid Maple, has too much movement in it and had to go:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the materials used are re-purposed, such as the 80/20 style aluminum channel (obtained used for free) along with all the gray and black plastic panels. The drawer slides were a garage sale find. Nearly all the hardwood used is old Maple gym floor I got cheap.
> 
> I did have to buy the casters, dust ports and 2 switches (they are about $10 on Amazon) made by Woodstock.
> 
> The frame design was largely dictated by the used material I had on hand, and tried to design with a minimum amount of cutting aluminum. It's noisy and messy..
> 
> *FRAME:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The casters are the industrial ones that have the rubber pads that can be used to level the rig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *STORAGE:*
> 
> There are 8 drawers and one open compartment. 4 of the drawers have Kaizen foam in them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One deep drawer in the middle holds the saw blades (there is a blog on that HERE) and a tenon jig:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Three wide drawers hold 2 miter gauges, 2 crosscut sleds and a miter sled:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *THE SAW:*
> 
> I covered the front of the saw with some rubber sheet material I had laying around. Not that pretty, but it covers up some of those gaping holes. I removed the factory tilt indicator thing because it's virtually useless and requires a much bigger opening to function. The tilt scale is there mostly as a novelty. I also printed out the serial and model number of the saw (just in case) because the original plate is covered up now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the back of the saw, I built 2 removable panels to enclose the back and use rare earth magnets to keep them on the saw. Unfortunately, they have to be removed to tilt the blade. I may build a 45 degree tilt version some day, we'll see:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built an extra beam on the out-feed side of the saw to place 2 movable out-feed boards on. The challenges in designing out-feed for this rig is the Incra TS-LS fence rides on top of the back rail so you can't have a permanent structure on top of the rail. The other issue is the tilting motor in the back, when fully tilted comes very close to the plane of the saw table. So the rail I added is just behind the motor allowing it to tilt.
> 
> The sliding out-feed boards have plastic runners that keep them in place, but can be moved or removed quickly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my downdraft table (which I had to install a lift kit on for this build!) falls just below the out-feed boards:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *ROUTER TABLES:*
> 
> There is a router box on both sides of the saw. You can access the routers under the table with removable panels that are held in place with rare earth magnets. Also, both boxes are hard wired with a duplex outlet inside each box:
> 
> This is the right box (which is also the access to tilt the saw):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the left box which has access from the end of the frame:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The table on this box is mounted directly to the aluminum frame and not the saw. All I can say is it is REALLY sturdy…
> 
> *DUST COLLECTION:*
> 
> There are three 4" dust ports on the back on the cabinet and I have to change the quick connect hose for each:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dust box for the saw has an angled bottom and works good. Haven't tested the router boxes yet, but I'm guessing they will be marginal, but better than no dust collection:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blast gate is mounted near the ceiling and at the back of the saw, which is un-reachable from the front of the saw. I attached a dowel to the blast gate so you can open and close the gate from the front. Also marked a line on the dowel so you can tell if the gate is open from across the shop, because the gate itself is hidden behind the ceiling mounted air cleaner:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *OTHER STUFF:*
> 
> The saw is wired separately from the 2 router tables and these 2 cords are zip-tied above the right side of the saw. This makes it really convenient to unplug things for safety reasons and also means you can't have the both the saw and router tables plugged in at the same time….also for safety reasons. I've been known to hit the wrong switch before. Also, there is a little flashlight mounted there which makes reading the Incra scale much easier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still intend to build several zero clearance inserts for the saw and will install splitters in them. I purchased the Leecraft (CR-1) to use as pattern. This is a really nice insert and completely adjustable for height and fit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for those of you that have the Incra fence, you know that it is a space hog when the fence is opened wide. I found a spot is the shop where the fence can be open and doesn't affect any other stuff, basically it opens into an un-usable space between the dust collector and the separator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like everything else in the shop, I'm sure there are more changes coming…....
> 
> Thanks for lookin'


Hey Nyle - thanks for the comments. The aluminum was free from work - they were going to scrap it!


----------



## JL7

*Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*










This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:










The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.

My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:










First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:



















This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..

Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:



















Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:










Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?










I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:



















A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.

There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:





































This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:










The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.










One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.

For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….

I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:



















Parting shot:










I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.

An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


----------



## lanwater

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


Great Job Jeff!

I have been looking for corian locally to make template out of it but not luck. Maybe I did not look hard enough.

I love the blog. Very Detailed as you always do.

And that home made pin router, I am stealing the idea.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## SPalm

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


Wow,
Nicely done Sir.

Looks like a nice adventure in Corian and pin routing too. Neat.

Steve


----------



## gfadvm

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


Those look so professional! You better start marketing those as there are a lot of those old Craftsman saws out there.

Love the pin router!


----------



## firefighterontheside

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


I was thinking "nicely done" and "those look so professional" but those are taken, so I'll just say good job.


----------



## Doe

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


Well done and excellent description. I'd like to know what you think of the splitter.


----------



## greasemonkeyredneck

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


I'm glad to see it worked for you jeff.
I agree with Doe, we need a review of the splitter. I have some kind of doodad splitter thingys I used long ago. I can't remember the name exactly since they were crap and got thrown into a drawer a long time ago.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


Hey Abbas….good luck on the Corian search…..it's out there…...and steal away!

Thanks Steve - you da man…....

Andy - you're right - lot's of them saws but not my design…...it is a good design though for sure….once you get it dialed in, the insert just snaps in sweet…..

Thanks Bill!

Doe and William - I will let you know how the splitter works…...I still have one of the MJ Splitters in the package, but seemed like a pain to install…..might try it later…..Thanks!


----------



## DIYaholic

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


Another great JL7 instructional blog!!!

Great work and fantastic documentation.
You always make it look so simple and easy to do….
Well, now that you did the hard part, all we have to do is copy your process!!!

Thanks for the tutorial!!!

I too, am interested in the splitter review.
If you do one for Doe and William, can I look over their shoulders at it??? ;^)


----------



## superdav721

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


Did I see hand saws and chisels.
Jeff is that u?
Jk kidding my friend.
I love to see your precision and work.
It is truly good.


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


I suppose you can Randy…..but William might not appreciate it….....thanks!

Hey Dave….I do break out the hand tools now and again…...this was a case where I couldn't do it better without them for sure….....thanks man.


----------



## Kentuk55

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


These are thee fanciest zero clearence inserts I have ever seen. These should last you a lifetime. Wow!


----------



## tool_junkie

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


These ZCIs look great. You have great craftsmanship!

I do have a question; how did you route that small tear drop shaped (for the lack of better description) locking feature using the pin routing technique. I am not very well versed in pin routing but if I understand correctly, it allows you to create that lip all around the blank by choosing an appropriate height of the router bit as well as an offset distance between the pin and the bit, correct?

Thanks!


----------



## JL7

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


Thanks Roger!

*tool_junkie* - the pin (for the pin router) is the same diameter as the bit and is centered above the bit. The pattern (which is the Leecraft insert) is attached using carpet tape to the top of the blank to be milled. The pin router will follow the shape of the pattern exactly, so any shape (including the tear drop) will be reproduced. There is no offset involved.

Let me know if this doesn't make sense.


----------



## tool_junkie

JL7 said:


> *Building ZCI's with a homemade pin router for the '113 TS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been on the list for awhile now. I've built ZCI's in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here's a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Leecraft doesn't use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak these screws to get just the right fit in the opening. They also use the 4 set screws to adjust the height.
> 
> My LJ buddy William has been using Corian for different stuff and he was gracious enough to give me a stack of rough cut pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was cutting the corners off and then flush trimming using the Leecraft as a template:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a REALLY messy process…..You must where a mask!! I did capture most of the dust even though the photos would suggest different…..
> 
> Next up is drilling the holes for the horizontal screws - I used 8/32" countersunk screws, so you first drill the small hole to be threaded, then follow with a larger hole so the screw head will have clearance once you machine away some material later. You may have to study the photos down the line to understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I drilled a tapped the 4 holes for the set screws:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also used a 1/2" spiral bit to carve a relief for the blade on the bottom of the insert. This also provides clearance if you run a stabilizer on your saw blade. In hindsight, not sure I would carve this deep on future versions. In order for the blade to clear the insert prior to cutting it through it, there is only about 0.060" left. That's a little thin! I would still cut the relief in the bottom, but not as deep, then use an 8" dado blade to start the cut, when cutting through…..Make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set up a homemade pin router on the router table. It use's a 1/2" spiral bit with a 1/2" steel pin fixed above. This allows tracing the Leecraft insert (underside) exactly:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of things to note here - the Corian is 1/16" thinner than the Leecraft so you can't set the bit height from the Leecraft - you need to check it and make some test cuts. The dust collection works much better here from below the table. Just take it slow….takes 10-15 minutes to cut these shapes.
> 
> There is a locking feature at the back of the insert and I used a pull saw and chisel to open this up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a bit over the top, but used the mini CNC to carve the intended purpose in the bottom of the inserts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Corian is brittle, so I covered the entire insert with a tubafore before cutting through, and clamped it all down of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the problems with the 113 saws is the inserts are not really long enough to put a splitter in them safely, so I am going to have an insert (with a splitter) for cuts up to 1-1/4" and will have to switch out for an insert (without a splitter) for taller cuts.
> 
> For cutting the 1-14" insert, you need to count the number of turns when raising the blade….
> 
> I found these Grip-Tite splitters on Incra's website (Incremental.com) for really cheap ($8?) so going to give them a try. Includes both thin and full kerf in the same package:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parting shot:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I built four of them, plus have the Leecraft, so hope they last awhile….I did read a tip online somewhere that said when the insert starts to open up from blade drift or deflection, you seal the top with tape and pour epoxy in the bottom and start over again…..I will be trying that some day.
> 
> An interesting challenge…...thanks for looking.


Jeff thanks for the explanation. I think need to read up more on pin routing techniques.


----------

