# attaching drywall to concrete block



## wooleywoodsmith (Mar 14, 2009)

hello everyone I am hoping that a few of you can give me some ideas on how to go about my next project. I have a basement that I want to hang drywall on the concrete walls to give it a more finished look. We have kilzed the walls and thats all fine and dandy but we can't really hang anything on it. 
My question
if I glue 3/4 in strips vertically every 24 inches and then attach the dry wall to that will it be sufficient? Do I need to put in a vapor barrier? if so what would be the best for that plastic? wood it behoove me to put in between my vertical strips a 3/4 in sheet of foam for warmth and sound? 
I want to put up crown molding and baseboards but I just don't know if I should rock it first. Thank you Wooley (michael)


----------



## marcb (May 5, 2008)

Easiest way would be to build up the "walls" then put them in place and shim tight if you have the room. Otherwise furring strips are built for this application, you don't want anything to thin as the drywall is quite heavy and can pull itself down.

Then foam insulation, and vapor barrier over the whole thing. Then put up the sheet rock and mud it. Once that's done paint the walls THEN put up the (prepainted) trim.


----------



## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hi Michael,

Just a few thoughts from a novice. If you noticed no moisture before you painted the walls, a barrier might not be necessary. How moist does it get down there in the basement during the rainy season? Have you installed any drainage systems around the perimeter of the house? Have the outside basement walls been coated? At any rate, a barrier over the 3/4 strips wouldn't be a lot of trouble. I'd think that the glue (Liquid Nails?) would offer some protection to the wood strips. BTW, have you considered shooting nails through the wood to hold it till the glue sets? Have you considered 2X2s? Have you considered running a horizontal strip at the top and bottom? Makes nailing molding sooo much easier.
Others might have more ideas about the barrier material. I'd probably use a heavy black plastic and staple it with grommeted staples. Lotta hand work there but the grommets would protect the sheets from tearing off the staples. 
Foam is probably a good idea, too. If you used 2X2s, you could use the 1 1/2 insulating foam. Cost differences are negligible.
As I said, just some thoughts from a woodworker….not a contractor.

Good luck.


----------



## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

My dad did this when I was a kid. They make an aluminum track that you attach with 1" concrete nails to the wall, on centers, and then attach the sheet rock to the aluminum track. Tough work but possible.


----------



## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

Gene is right about the moisture problem.

Recently talked to a guy who does basement remodels and he said the current thinking is to have no space between the finish wall and the basement wall. Any voids are areas where mold will grow.


----------



## oldskoolmodder (Apr 28, 2008)

Gene, you're thinking similar to a contractor. Good thoughts.

3/4" strips aren't going to hold much up at all. 2×2's are a minimum, if not 2×4's. What will you attach the trim with if you only put in 3/4" strips? Do you have any experience attaching stud walls to concrete? You should look into a stud gun that uses special .22 (or like) cartridges. You can rent them at some hardware stores, if not the big box stores. Don't forget to get some ear protection. I wish I'd have had mine when I was doing a basement this last week.

Even if you don't see moisture, it's not a bad idea to put plastic up as a barrier, just in case. It won't help if your basement floods or sewer back up, but it could help a bit if moisture seeps in the walls a little. And no, it's not a good idea to put trim before drywall. Not sure where the thought even came from that it might be possible.


----------



## DaleM (Feb 18, 2009)

Wooley, another way to avoid mold is to use drywall without the paper on one side. I don't know if you looked into it or have it easily available near you but without the paper on the back, you have less chance of mold growing even with dampness. Also, you may want to run a tightened chalkline from side to side and top to bottom to see how straight the surface is because if it is not straight, you will probably want to frame it to give yourself the best chance of getting a flat surface with the drywall.


----------



## Catspaw (Dec 15, 2007)

Actually they make foam board with rabbets on each side for this very purpose. You put up two boards of foam then tap-con a 1×2 in the rabbet. Next foam board, another 1×2.

Makes a solid foundation for the drywall and adds the insulation value.

Before using this stuff we just ripped 2×4's and tap-con'd them to the wall. If you're going to put in foam board, do it as you tap-con so there's no "fitting" required if the 2x is off alittle.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

On my basement I put up 2/4 studs and then used full insulation. You can then put on top plywood for the workshop or drywall for other use.


----------



## BethMartin (Feb 24, 2009)

I'm with Karson - I'd put up real walls with studs and insulation, then you can run wiring in the wall, etc.


----------



## woodward (Apr 3, 2008)

The best way IMO would be to drape plastic over the concrete walls than put 2×4 walls up in front. This way you can easly run any wiring(phone,cable,power,internet)and get more insulation. Best of all you can get the walls level and plumb because you only need to nail the top and botom of the wall, thou you will most likely need blocking at the top along the walls that run with your joists.


----------



## wooleywoodsmith (Mar 14, 2009)

Thanks everyone for all the tips. I will be thinking about it alot until me son is off to college (he's sleeping in the family room till then) Ahh just a few more months and we are childless


----------

