# How long for plywood to acclimate?



## WalkerR (Feb 8, 2017)

I've learned it's good practice to let wood acclimate to the environment in the shop before cutting it. I've read at least a couple of weeks for hardwoods, but what about plywood? Will it take less or more time to acclimate?

Unfortunately I do not have a hygrometer in the shop, or a moisture gauge yet. I just got some AB Marine ply delivered from a reputable supplier (not the borg) for a project. I'm eager to get going on it, but also trying to learn from previous mistakes and be patient. It will be stored flat on the floor, stickered.


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

It would be unusual for plywood to have a moisture problem unless it has been stored or exposed to a wet environment. So I would not be concerned about acclimating it. The various layers in plywood are laid out in a cross grain pattern which virtually eliminates any most movement of the wood.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

That's probably not something I would worry about or do, unless the ply was so wet I couldn't use it.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Quality plywood (like yours) usually is just fine to use immediately. Sadly however some of the construction grade plywoods will potato chip for no real reason other then to mock you. I have had success avoiding this by keeping these types of plywood forced flat for several weeks before using them. I find it hard to blame a moisture balance issue given what Les mentions (maybe it's the glue?), but it does seem to help.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I've never considered it or have ever had problems with a decent ply.


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## WalkerR (Feb 8, 2017)

Ok, that's all reassuring. I guess I won't worry about it so much. I've just been more mindful of wood movement lately, and have been watching another thread debating if plywood releases internal stresses when cut like solid wood can, so I thought I'd ask.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I don't think any acclimation is needed with plywood.

I've mentioned before though that cutting it can
release stresses in the material. Resulting 
distortions are often not a problem with 
smaller panels though. Sometimes a base
cabinet side cut from a "flat" 4×8 sheet might
"potato chip" a bit from corner to corner. 
This can cause the back of a cabinet to turn
out slightly out of square. I push the error
to the back by clamping the front square 
and nailing on the back.

"We even bought a Holtzer panel saw (1265) in order to get consistent cuts. We learned that even MDF core plywood will give you serious banana cuts and have learned to use dust cuts to eliminate those. We learned that on dust cuts, the blade will torque or twist if you don't cut off enough material and have adjusted our optimizer to allow for those." - http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Troubleshooting_Edgebander_Glueline_Failure.html

The shorter and narrower you parts are the
less likely there's going to be a problem. These
issues can be acceptable variances in a lot of
work you do for yourself. Clients however 
generally expect perfection no matter how 
discounted the work. If you were to build
a tall frameless pantry with an overlay door 
a "banana edge" could create a situation 
with an ocd client.


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