# Tablesaw safety question



## swied (Feb 6, 2008)

I found this image on another forum. 


I know that some master table saw users put their hands closer to the blade than I feel comfortable doing. Does anyone else do this? It kind of made me shudder when I saw it.


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## Paul_D (Feb 20, 2008)

I'm no TS expert but I can tell you I'd be very uncomfortable with making this cut. I would probably make this cut with a tenoning jig or some other shopmade jig.


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

I have to say, maybe he knows what he is doing, but I wouldn't make that cut in a million years. Not only is his hand too close to the blade for my comfort, but that chunk of wood he is about to cut free looks like a potential missile to me.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

That is way too close for me and the piece is largely unsupported. I would also use a taller fence and a tenoning jig or miter gauge. The other problem is that the waste piece is going to be trapped between the blade and fence. This is a kickback waiting to happen.


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

Swied, go back and check that website. I'm sure it was showing you what NOT to do. *;^)*
OUCH!
Just shows you how much bad information is on the net.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

Doesn't look like a mental giant to me, but he does appear to have all his fingers.
The hands look quite old also.


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## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

doesn't look very safe to me but he has all his fingers. whats up with the blade though. its like see through?


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## runngt (Feb 29, 2008)

Would that not be better performed using a dado set and miter gauge with the board laying flat, not on end?

teenage, I thought the samething, but I believe you are seeing the mirror image at an angle so it just looks see through.

runngt


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## jcash3 (Dec 15, 2007)

A tenoning jig if it could handle that thick of a stock, but if you had to run it through this way he should at least have a lot taller fence and somekind of back to keep the cutoff from shooting backwards and to give him safer leverage.


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## Woodshopfreak (Feb 26, 2008)

No thanks. That doesn't looks that smart on his part.


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

Another "Darwin Award" nominee. This could be done with a tenoning jig. This guy should at least put the waste on the other side of the blade. That piece is going to come out of there like a Japanese bullet train. Never trap the cut off between the blade and fence.


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

You have to have a tall fence for an operation like this.

Isn't it true that the cutoff should be set to fall away and not be trapped between blade and fence?


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

a bandsaw would do it much better and safer. I agree that he is a Darwin award candidate.


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## toyguy (Nov 23, 2007)

Yip..that was my thought..Use the bandsaw.


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## freedhardwoods (May 11, 2008)

Doing that cut, he is pushing toward the fence as well as forward. When that board kicks back, his hand will go straight into the blade. I put my hand through a tablesaw 3 years ago. It was over before I knew what happened. I still have all 10, but 2 don't look like they used to.


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## woodworkersguide (Mar 7, 2008)

C'mon now, you know we all thought about trying this at one time or another.


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## Dadoo (Jun 23, 2007)

Pretty hokey lookin to me. Definately a "what not to do" photo.


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## JimB (Oct 14, 2007)

Gotta be a few cans short of a six pack.


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## Obi (Oct 19, 2006)

My fingers get so close that i tend to pray while I cut. May I also suggest a sled.

And Gary, the hand isn't old, it's afraid and the fear has caused it to wrinkle pre-maturely.

Also if he put the part that *is NOT* being removed be up against the fence. In other words turn the board the other way so there is always some material against the fence.


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Here's what a left hand looks like after a split second of indescretion:

Any questions?

Bob


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## CharlieM1958 (Nov 7, 2006)

That will make a few folks think twice in the shop today, Bob.

Glad I hadn't had breakfast yet. <g>


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Hey Guys:

Still thinK a the Grr- ripper is too expensive?

Bob


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## dalec (Oct 3, 2007)

Bob,

That photo of the severed fingers bring me that much closer to deciding to save up for a Sawstop.

I watched the Charles Neil video on the Sawstop a few weeks ago. He said his accident was not the result of his doing anything incorrectly, but just happened. Never before or after. It happened in a split second. He said he ended up regaining 60% of the use of the hand after enduring months of rehab and extensive medical bills even with health insurance.

I know the Sawstop costs quite a bit more than comparably configured quality table saws. I just can't get away from the fact that operating a table saw is inherently dangerous. Anything that would minimze the seriousness of any injury is worth strong consideration even at Sawstop prices. I am beginning to think of the added cost as added insurance.

Dalec


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Sawstop is one of the most advances safety features in the woodworking field.
That combined with good shop practices would bring the accident levels down dramatically.
I don't know if a standard IQ shop test should not be considered prior to purchase of these and other devices in the shop.
Right now a 14 year old can walk into a store and buy a table saw.
He or she may have been trained in safety but it definitely not a requirement.

Bob


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## dalec (Oct 3, 2007)

Bob,

As you said anyone can walk into a store and buy a table saw. What if the store provided a basic one hour use and safety course at a nominal cost to the first time buyers of any power tool or as a refresher?

Dalec


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Dalec, nobody ever does anything voluntarliy.

How about surcharging all saws and planers for instance with a $75.00 fee refundable when you pass the test?
How about refusing to insure folks for traumatic injuries resulting from known hazardous machinery medically if they have not passed same?

Bob


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## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

Table saws lover finger food.


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

If I were to attempt that cut,

1. I would have a large Push Block behind it where clamping could be done; would also reduce tearout.

2. I would arrange the piece to where NOTHING would be Trapped between fence & blade.

First Choice: Band saw… Simple and SAFE!


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## RedShirt013 (May 17, 2008)

Definitely something for the bandsaw, or at least dado blades w/ mitre fence.
THat stack of magazine waiting to fall on the blade is not the smartest thing to do either.


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## marcb (May 5, 2008)

I read someplace, I think it was a woodcentral article, that you should always think through your cut, and when your doing that you need to consider what would happen if the piece of stock suddenly disappeared.

I tend to simplify it when talking to someone. My hands never go where the guard goes. Even if I took off the guard for a dado cut or something, my hands never go there.


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