# Hand tool tips and tricks



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Sharpening a Card Scraper*

Hello all I though I would share my method for sharpening a card scraper (add to the million ways that are already out there)

http://www.facebook.com/v/10150130534790229


----------



## Hayabusa (Jul 7, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Sharpening a Card Scraper*
> 
> Hello all I though I would share my method for sharpening a card scraper (add to the million ways that are already out there)
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/v/10150130534790229


There is always something to learn. Everyone chooses his way, but as I said to you, a wonderful lesson my friend
Lots of people will thank you and others shut up but carry your seal into their work
Thanks for sharing


----------



## skeeter (Apr 2, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Sharpening a Card Scraper*
> 
> Hello all I though I would share my method for sharpening a card scraper (add to the million ways that are already out there)
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/v/10150130534790229


i learned alot thanks. but all the sniffing started to gross me out.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

RGtools said:


> *Sharpening a Card Scraper*
> 
> Hello all I though I would share my method for sharpening a card scraper (add to the million ways that are already out there)
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/v/10150130534790229


Thanks for the video, Ryan. It was well produced and packed with a lot of use info. I definitely will give your idea a try to see if it will improve my card scraping technique.


----------



## Broglea (Dec 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Sharpening a Card Scraper*
> 
> Hello all I though I would share my method for sharpening a card scraper (add to the million ways that are already out there)
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/v/10150130534790229


Cool video. I think I've been making the mistake of trying to get too aggressive burr. I'll try your method the next time I can get some shop time. Thanks


----------



## steliart (Jan 15, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Sharpening a Card Scraper*
> 
> Hello all I though I would share my method for sharpening a card scraper (add to the million ways that are already out there)
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/v/10150130534790229


very nice video
thx


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Sharpening a Card Scraper*
> 
> Hello all I though I would share my method for sharpening a card scraper (add to the million ways that are already out there)
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/v/10150130534790229


Sorry about the sniffling. It was about 34 in my shop that day. (if it makes you feel better it bothered me too but I did not want to re-shoot.)


----------



## Gofor (Jan 12, 2008)

RGtools said:


> *Sharpening a Card Scraper*
> 
> Hello all I though I would share my method for sharpening a card scraper (add to the million ways that are already out there)
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/v/10150130534790229


Thank You. Very informative. Looks like I have been working too hard at it. Will try you technique.

Go


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Classes*

My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.

Here is a small selection of what I am planning to offer. As time and requests permit I hope to add more.

Understanding Bench Planes

Per Person Price: $70










In the class we will discuss the primary set of planes for a hand-tool woodworker: The fore, try, and smoothing planes. We will go over the aspects of how the tools are used differently, what to look for when buying them, as well as how to set them up for fast and efficient work. During the class we will plane one board square on all 6 working surfaces. While tools will be provided, it is recommended that a student bring their own tools to utilize for the class.

Dovetail by Hand

Per Person Price: $60










Today's craftsman has access to an amazing assortment of equipment that allows us to automate the process of most joinery. Unfortunately, in most cases the equipment unduly influences the final look of the joint. In this class we will give you the understanding you need to free yourself from the router and start cutting the dovetails you want to see in your finished piece. We will discuss the tools used in making through dovetails, as well as different techniques to create them. It is recommended that you bring you own tools in order to get a feel for the work you will be doing in your own shop, but tools will be provided if you do not have them. The two most important tools are: a Dovetail saw (about 15 TPI works), and a marking knife.

Making a Saw-Stool

Per Person Price: $150










The most important skill you can learn in a hand-working shop is to saw accurately to a line. If you use western panel saws, nothing will help you do this more than having your work at the right height and appropriately secured. This saw-stool may look different than other forms, but the design dates back hundreds of years (or more), and it is very simple to construct. The biggest benefit of this tool is that you don't need a workbench to build one. In the class, you will be constructing your first sawing station. This is a great crash course in chair construction, as the joints are similar to what you would find in an old Windsor chair. Tools will be provided, but it's always suggested that you bring your own. Due to the fact that there is some assembly involved in this project, it is recommended you allot two days to complete the project.


----------



## jjw5858 (Apr 11, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


Looks terrific! Wish I was closer….I hope anyone that is closer…. signs up. Great post and wonderful lessons you are providing!


----------



## balidoug (Aug 13, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


Alas, likewise. But anyone within reach should make a point of it. I certainly will should I find myself in your neck of the woods.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


Good luck Ryan. If I were closer, I would check one out.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


I wish you all the best with your new venture Ryan. I'm sure anyone who signs up will have a great time.


----------



## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


Best wishes to you Ryan on this endeavor! On a side note, I'd just like to add that the Applegate Valley is a beautiful area and an excellent spot for a B&B. I'm sure anyone staying at your place won't be disappointed.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


It really is a pretty area to live in, I feel quite blessed to have landed here. We grow most of the food that goes into the meals for the B&B and we have received very positive feedback thus far about the experience.

Thanks for the support. If you are in my neck of the woods let me know. LJ buddies always welcome.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


that's a great idea Ryan. I wish I were closer as well.


----------



## planepassion (Nov 24, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


That's a fantastic idea RG. By adding woodworking classes, you've made your B&B a "destination resort" like Steamboat Springs is for skiiers. Oregon is downright a beautiful state and well worth touring for those who haven't seen it. My lady and I get to Portland from time to time to visit family, so I think one of these times I'll be able to talk my lady into staying a night or two in the hamlet of Ruch. And by a strange coincidence, the timing will be smack on with one of your classes


----------



## balidoug (Aug 13, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


Brad, I think you have the plan. Now I need a reason to be in Portland …


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


Let me know Brad and we can make it happen. Shoot me a PM and I will make the coincidence happen.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


Wish i lived near by.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


You are closer than most Tony. You are right about the fact that not a lot of woodworkers seem to be in my area.


----------



## getlostinwood (Apr 11, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


Man had I only known I used to stay in Medford alot last two years, now new job keeps me in Texas. Guess I need to visit some old customers this year


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


Or just plan a vacation trip.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


I wish you luck Ryan, sounds like a great idea!


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


Wish you all the best with this.
A wonderful idea with B&B and wood class.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Classes*
> 
> My wife and I have a small B&B in the Applegate Valley. In an effort to work towards getting me on staff full time we have decided to start offering classes. Take a look here if you are interested.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mads and Mauricio. I apreciate the support. Honestly even if it just gives me the oppurtunity to work with a bit more wood I will be very happy.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*When you don't have a place for chisels.*

Today is just a quick one. I thought I should start posting more of these little things as they come up.










For the most part I like to keep my chisels and auger bits in tool rolls. It keeps them safe and sharp, but as my collection grows I sometimes don't have enough chisels to justify buying or making another roll. For this I venture to the scrap fabric section of my shop.

I pick out something like this.










And wrap my tools up as follows. Sorry for the blur on some of these…my lens was fogging up for some reason.





































The flap in between the tools keeps everything protected and the tie keeps it all together. So next time you have a few spare tools you have yet to make a spot for, this is a quick way to keep the safe while you get that done.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *When you don't have a place for chisels.*
> 
> Today is just a quick one. I thought I should start posting more of these little things as they come up.
> 
> ...


"…the scrap fabic section of my shop"

Hmmm - Why haven't I got one of those?


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *When you don't have a place for chisels.*
> 
> Today is just a quick one. I thought I should start posting more of these little things as they come up.
> 
> ...


Good to have. I have one of these that my wife sewed me for my carving tools. With some small alterations you can also make it so it can hang on a stand for keeping your chisels at hand while working.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *When you don't have a place for chisels.*
> 
> Today is just a quick one. I thought I should start posting more of these little things as they come up.
> 
> ...


Simple is good.


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *When you don't have a place for chisels.*
> 
> Today is just a quick one. I thought I should start posting more of these little things as they come up.
> 
> ...


If one has a way to do a little sewing, a nail apron can be adopted too. One can get a cloth nail apron for maybe $2 and sew it into pockets for each tool. It can then be rolled up, and the strings that used to tie it around a waist, will now tie it up into a roll.

ps; one can even dye the cloth into their favourite colours….


----------



## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

RGtools said:


> *When you don't have a place for chisels.*
> 
> Today is just a quick one. I thought I should start posting more of these little things as they come up.
> 
> ...


My brother-in-law gave our family a hugh box of leatherworking tools and equipment. About as far as I got in leatherworking was buying a leather shoulder from the Leather Factory ($20 bucks, good deal I thought) to make strops. I need to start small and learn more about crafting leather. It has so many uses in the shop. I really want to learn how to sew leather, not so much tooling leather. Old towels, tee-shirts, rugs I've picked from the curb, and a couple of items my wife donated make up the bulk of my "fabric section". Hanging the pouch on a stand when using the tools is a great idea. Thanks.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *When you don't have a place for chisels.*
> 
> Today is just a quick one. I thought I should start posting more of these little things as they come up.
> 
> ...


Good to see you back and active. Good tip.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *When you don't have a place for chisels.*
> 
> Today is just a quick one. I thought I should start posting more of these little things as they come up.
> 
> ...


yep, I need to figure out a better plan


----------



## LeslieC (Aug 27, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *When you don't have a place for chisels.*
> 
> Today is just a quick one. I thought I should start posting more of these little things as they come up.
> 
> ...


Thanks, great idea.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *When you don't have a place for chisels.*
> 
> Today is just a quick one. I thought I should start posting more of these little things as they come up.
> 
> ...


Great tips man, I look forward to future installments on this series.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Hiding Component Markings*

I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".

Here is my version of the picture.










When the joint is assembled the marks are permanently hidden by the joint…you don't have to figure out how to erase them later. A nice way to keep things straight, huh?


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Hiding Component Markings*
> 
> I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".
> 
> ...


That's what I do. It's a good system


----------



## Cajunrotor (Jan 11, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Hiding Component Markings*
> 
> I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".
> 
> ...


I would have thought of that…................eventually! Thanks for the tip!


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Hiding Component Markings*
> 
> I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".
> 
> ...


Pretty cool, I've seen Peter Follansbee do this to where he uses different carving gouge to chop matching marks in each M&T.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Hiding Component Markings*
> 
> I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".
> 
> ...


I do that when I remember. I also stick bits of blue tape on components and write on that instead of directly on the wood. If you do have to write on the wood though, use a soft pencil and when you're ready, wiping the pencil marks with white spirit takes them right off.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Hiding Component Markings*
> 
> I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".
> 
> ...


Now if i can cut a mortise and tenon that fit that nicely then i am all set…

Thanks bud.


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Hiding Component Markings*
> 
> I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".
> 
> ...


thanks for sharing the tip RG 

now I just have to rember it …..

Dennis


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Hiding Component Markings*
> 
> I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".
> 
> ...


this is a tactic I employ, mostly due to laziness. But sometimes I write my name in locations like that. Something to give the future recycler something to think about.


----------



## DrSawdust (Mar 7, 2007)

RGtools said:


> *Hiding Component Markings*
> 
> I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".
> 
> ...


Simple elegance!


----------



## balidoug (Aug 13, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Hiding Component Markings*
> 
> I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".
> 
> ...


Great tip, thanks.


----------



## Grumpymike (Jan 23, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Hiding Component Markings*
> 
> I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".
> 
> ...


White spirit?? I use alcohol to remove pencil marks … is that white spirit??
Some of this English English translate funny to American English


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Hiding Component Markings*
> 
> I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".
> 
> ...


I second the white-spirit question. Mineral spirit perhaps? not a bad tip. The other way to go about it is to place the marks in a place where they can be easily handplaned off with a smoother after assembly.

About a million and one ways to do about anything.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Hiding Component Markings*
> 
> I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".
> 
> ...


Sorry guys I was wrong. I meant to say Methylated Sprits and NOT White Spirit. I believe this is called denatured alcohol in the US. Whatever it is called where you live, it is basically ethanol that has additives to make it undrinkable (poisonous), to discourage recreational consumption

You can apparently also use acetone. If you type 'removing pencil marks' into the LJs search, you'll find some threads that have discussed this subject in the past and see what others have recommended.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Hiding Component Markings*
> 
> I actually picked this up from Paul Sellers, though not something he specifically discussed. The tip came from a picture in his book; when I saw it I thought "why didn't I think of that".
> 
> ...


This is a great tip, which I have used for some time. When I made my frame and panel router table there were about 50 mortise/tenon joints which I diligently marked as I chopped and cut them. Everything went together perfectly thanks to that.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Starting a Handplane.*

There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this.










Next time you start your cut, skew the body of the plane a bit. What this does is cause the plane to start the cut with one pinpoint of the blade as opposed to it's full width. The beginning of your cuts will feel and look smoother and you can of course straighten out the tool as you go along the board. This also means you won't have to take a running start when using planes with wide blades (jointers and 4.5 smoothers).

Now, go make a pile of shavings.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Starting a Handplane.*
> 
> There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this.
> 
> ...


Good tip Ryan.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Starting a Handplane.*
> 
> There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this.
> 
> ...


I've actually been trying this lately and it does feel like a much smoother action. Thanks for the affirmation.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Starting a Handplane.*
> 
> There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure if I'm doing that already. I'll have to give it a try.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Starting a Handplane.*
> 
> There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this.
> 
> ...


One of the things that may be a bit misleading is all the pictures with a full width shaving we see. Unless your doing a long piece where you'll straighten the plane in the end of a cut, that type of shaving typically will not happen. Skewing the plane as Ryan shows make the knife action work better through out the stroke.

Most of those pictures are created for the shot.


----------



## ChrisMobley (Feb 5, 2013)

RGtools said:


> *Starting a Handplane.*
> 
> There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this.
> 
> ...


Great information! 
Thank you!
Chris Mobley
www.cmobleydesigns.com


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Starting a Handplane.*
> 
> There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this.
> 
> ...


its not just the knife action you benefit from 
but allso the fact that you make the cut with a lower angle than the typical 45 degree

but thanks for the tip one of those that can´t be told often enoff 

Dennis


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Starting a Handplane.*
> 
> There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this.
> 
> ...


Don has a pretty good point, most of the shavings taken during real work are not as pretty as what you see in the pictures…the shot above was from one of my planing sessions though; it was a full width shaving with a cambered blade to correct an out of square edge (one time where a full width shaving is taken and it's not a waste).


----------



## LeslieC (Aug 27, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Starting a Handplane.*
> 
> There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip. I figured this one out on my own. It seems I have a decent knack for planing, which is great, because I love it.

That's a beautiful plane you've got there. When I have some $ again, I'm going to buy a nice, vintage wooden jointer.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Starting a Handplane.*
> 
> There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this.
> 
> ...


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Starting a Handplane.*
> 
> There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this.
> 
> ...


^very nice. Where did you get the flywheel for the vise?


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Starting a Handplane.*
> 
> There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this.
> 
> ...


http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/34022


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Starting a Handplane.*
> 
> There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this.
> 
> ...


This sounds like a very good idea. I will sure give it try next time I shoot an edge. Thank you.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*No straightedge needed*

If you have been working with hand tools for a while you have likely already seen this one. It's as old as it gets.










Using the edge of a handplane and a strong light you can very quickly identify peeks and valleys in your work…and you don't have to let go of the tool to fix them either.


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

RGtools said:


> *No straightedge needed*
> 
> If you have been working with hand tools for a while you have likely already seen this one. It's as old as it gets.
> 
> ...


Why didn't I think of that? ;-) Thanks.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *No straightedge needed*
> 
> If you have been working with hand tools for a while you have likely already seen this one. It's as old as it gets.
> 
> ...


Great little bite sized tips here RG!


----------



## CMobley (Feb 5, 2013)

RGtools said:


> *No straightedge needed*
> 
> If you have been working with hand tools for a while you have likely already seen this one. It's as old as it gets.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the post. Very good information!
Chris Mobley
www.cmobleydesigns.com


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *No straightedge needed*
> 
> If you have been working with hand tools for a while you have likely already seen this one. It's as old as it gets.
> 
> ...


I like this tip but it is going to require that i install a window in my garage… damn expensive hobby; woodworking.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *No straightedge needed*
> 
> If you have been working with hand tools for a while you have likely already seen this one. It's as old as it gets.
> 
> ...


I have tried this, but I always seem to lacking that strong light. It's a great method though.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *No straightedge needed*
> 
> If you have been working with hand tools for a while you have likely already seen this one. It's as old as it gets.
> 
> ...


Tony, it's cheaper than collecting cars.

Mike. The window is a blessing, but failing that any big box store sells floor stand lights that are pretty bright and offer the ability to place the light where you need it. Lat I checked that are about $30-$60 depending on how fancy. I have thought about grabbing those for the winter months.


----------



## Limerick (Mar 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *No straightedge needed*
> 
> If you have been working with hand tools for a while you have likely already seen this one. It's as old as it gets.
> 
> ...


Yea, what Topamax said!


----------



## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

RGtools said:


> *No straightedge needed*
> 
> If you have been working with hand tools for a while you have likely already seen this one. It's as old as it gets.
> 
> ...


Mike, you can only do it in the summer in Norway. The sun is too low in the winter ;-))


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Getting Clean Crosscuts with a Rip Saw*

I don't have a dedicated carcase saw filed crosscut. I have one hanging around the shop that I should sharpen and straighten the plate on, I just have not got around to it yet. So for the most part I use my dovetail saw for finishing crosscuts.

There are a few tricks to this.

First, use a knife to lay out your cut lines: It's more accurate, but more importantly. It severs the fibers of the wood that would normally be torn up by the rip teeth (a crosscut saw acts like the knife). Take a look at what I mean.









On the left you can see my knife line; on the right side of the kerf you can see the fuzz that gets created by the saw. You get smoother cut with a knife.

The second tip is also shown in the first picture: don't cut all the way through your stock from one direction. This will cause tear-out on the back and bottom of your stock. Instead cut down about an 8th" and turn the stock 90 degrees away from you (the kerf you just made will be on the exit side of your next saw cut). Cut an 8th" down your next knife line and repeat this process on the remaining two sides. The kerfs that you have made will guide you easily and accurately through the rest of the cut.

The results will look like this.


----------



## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Getting Clean Crosscuts with a Rip Saw*
> 
> I don't have a dedicated carcase saw filed crosscut. I have one hanging around the shop that I should sharpen and straighten the plate on, I just have not got around to it yet. So for the most part I use my dovetail saw for finishing crosscuts.
> 
> ...


That's awesome RG, thanks.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Getting Clean Crosscuts with a Rip Saw*
> 
> I don't have a dedicated carcase saw filed crosscut. I have one hanging around the shop that I should sharpen and straighten the plate on, I just have not got around to it yet. So for the most part I use my dovetail saw for finishing crosscuts.
> 
> ...


Nice!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Getting Clean Crosscuts with a Rip Saw*
> 
> I don't have a dedicated carcase saw filed crosscut. I have one hanging around the shop that I should sharpen and straighten the plate on, I just have not got around to it yet. So for the most part I use my dovetail saw for finishing crosscuts.
> 
> ...


Braggart. Great tips Ryan. Thank you man.

How are you liking that Blue Spruce? It sure is sweet looking.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Getting Clean Crosscuts with a Rip Saw*
> 
> I don't have a dedicated carcase saw filed crosscut. I have one hanging around the shop that I should sharpen and straighten the plate on, I just have not got around to it yet. So for the most part I use my dovetail saw for finishing crosscuts.
> 
> ...


I will try this, it sounds like a good idea. I usually saw most of the way through in one go and then I turn the wood 90' to get the bottom remaining corner to avoid tearout. It works,m but your method sounds better.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Getting Clean Crosscuts with a Rip Saw*
> 
> I don't have a dedicated carcase saw filed crosscut. I have one hanging around the shop that I should sharpen and straighten the plate on, I just have not got around to it yet. So for the most part I use my dovetail saw for finishing crosscuts.
> 
> ...


you can use this method when your cutting with a power saw to, and your to lazy to change the blade when it gets dull. How do I know? I must have read it some wheres, because I'd never use a power saw *OR* be to lazy to change the blade. 

Ryan, you're on a role with these tips. Super nice job!!


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Getting Clean Crosscuts with a Rip Saw*
> 
> I don't have a dedicated carcase saw filed crosscut. I have one hanging around the shop that I should sharpen and straighten the plate on, I just have not got around to it yet. So for the most part I use my dovetail saw for finishing crosscuts.
> 
> ...


It's been a while since I have had braggart thrown my way…I'll take it . The blue spruce feels wonderful in the hand. I don't know how to describe it other than it kind of disappears, I am the knife. Good tools feel like that.

Don…I must have read it somewhere too.

Thanks to everyone who is stopping in. I am really enjoying this particular format and I have quite a few of these I feel like drafting up.


----------



## Limerick (Mar 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Getting Clean Crosscuts with a Rip Saw*
> 
> I don't have a dedicated carcase saw filed crosscut. I have one hanging around the shop that I should sharpen and straighten the plate on, I just have not got around to it yet. So for the most part I use my dovetail saw for finishing crosscuts.
> 
> ...


Nice tip


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*

This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.










And Now…a bonus tip!!!

When test fitting a mortise and tenon joint take care not to snag anything important…










You have been warned and so have I.

Cheers,

Ryan


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


Looks like it might have been a good fit, if your sleeve wasnt in there too. : )


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


Ummmm…. Wait. What the?


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


Aw Snap!


----------



## Picklehead (Feb 12, 2013)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


So THAT'S why they call it a "dead blow" hammer!


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


Insult of the weekr award goes to Shane. I love this site.

Picklehead get's runner up.


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


Looking at some stitching around the sleeves of my shirt …. that aint no sleeve. Its a good thing you arent licensed to sell hot dogs in the state of Oregon because if shop was open there woulda been trouble.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


that's how to do a through mortise in a pinch.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


Yeah upon further review…Stef is right. What the heck Ryan? Do we even want to know?


----------



## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


Shane - probably went something like this …...

"Now if i just lean a little harder on it, it should … pop … right … into .. place … grrr … AHHHHHHH (high pitched squeel)."

Is that a blood blister?


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


I was assembling something a bit to big to do on my bench or my saw bench, so I was leaning on the mortise member just hand pressure, when it snapped int place. I tried to put the assembly on my bench and found that is was quite well attached to my pants. I believe my words were something to the effect of "Thank you god, for looking out for me today".

Please tell me I am not the only person who has done this.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


The lesser endowed go unscathed all the time; just ask Stef.


----------



## needshave (Jan 13, 2013)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


We really get attached to our work, Sometimes, don't we?


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


I suddenly found myself reading that last paragraph in a higher voice.

Sorry about your misfortune Ryan, but I sure as hell ain't rubbing it better.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Waste Removal on a Through Mortise.*
> 
> This one is almost stupid, but it happens to still be helpful. On a through mortise you can center your work on a dog hole and some of the random chips will fall through it rather than get jammed into the bottom, where you will have to extricate them later.
> 
> ...


Reminds me of that chinese man, Wun Hung Lo.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Alternate use for a wheel guage*

I am very partial to wheel style gauges. Not only do they leave a crisp lines but you can use them as an extended and delicate routing plane for all sorts of fine operations. Hear I am using it to get a hinge installed.



















Try it out some time.

Ryan


----------



## widdle (Mar 10, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Alternate use for a wheel guage*
> 
> I am very partial to wheel style gauges. Not only do they leave a crisp lines but you can use them as an extended and delicate routing plane for all sorts of fine operations. Hear I am using it to get a hinge installed.
> 
> ...


oldskool…like it…


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Alternate use for a wheel guage*
> 
> I am very partial to wheel style gauges. Not only do they leave a crisp lines but you can use them as an extended and delicate routing plane for all sorts of fine operations. Hear I am using it to get a hinge installed.
> 
> ...


good idea!!


----------



## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Alternate use for a wheel guage*
> 
> I am very partial to wheel style gauges. Not only do they leave a crisp lines but you can use them as an extended and delicate routing plane for all sorts of fine operations. Hear I am using it to get a hinge installed.
> 
> ...


thanks 

Dennis


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

RGtools said:


> *Alternate use for a wheel guage*
> 
> I am very partial to wheel style gauges. Not only do they leave a crisp lines but you can use them as an extended and delicate routing plane for all sorts of fine operations. Hear I am using it to get a hinge installed.
> 
> ...


Thanks Ryan, love these tips!


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Alternate use for a wheel guage*
> 
> I am very partial to wheel style gauges. Not only do they leave a crisp lines but you can use them as an extended and delicate routing plane for all sorts of fine operations. Hear I am using it to get a hinge installed.
> 
> ...


Sexyness.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Alternate use for a wheel guage*
> 
> I am very partial to wheel style gauges. Not only do they leave a crisp lines but you can use them as an extended and delicate routing plane for all sorts of fine operations. Hear I am using it to get a hinge installed.
> 
> ...


Cool.
Crisp photos!
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*

I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.

1. Get rid of the square head screw that it comes with. It looks cool, but needs to be tightened with some regularity and my square head screwdriver is never around when this needs to happen. Also, since it rides above the surface of the head there are situations when it can mar your work. Use a regular Phillips wood screw and counter-bore the thing.

2. Add an O-ring to the handle. It add a nice buffer so the head does not come loose all the time.


__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content



















That's it. A few parts you already have on hand and about five minutes of time and you will have a much improved vise.


----------



## LeslieC (Aug 27, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tips.


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


I have read about the O ring trick. Now I'll need to give it a try. Thanks Ryan.


----------



## gsuing (Feb 19, 2013)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I'm so sick of tightening the square-drive screws. I was ready to make a new handle, but I'll try your tips first.


----------



## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


Interesting tip thx


----------



## Timbo (Aug 21, 2008)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


Thanks! I need to do this too.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


simple tip. thnx


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


Thank you bud.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


I need to post a few more of these when I get the camera in my shop.

Understanding Camber (a refinement from the original HOYD post)
Reducing cleanup on drawbore joints.
Layout Speed Tip For Squaring Ends. 
Quick Glue Spreader
Using a Plow.
Cutting a Sliding DT with a chisel.

...And a few others. Any votes on which ones I do first?


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


"Layout Speed Tip For Squaring Ends." - Sounds intriguing. I often want to see what my p.o.s. shooting board would look like as it hit the cinder block wall. And anything square seems elusive in my woodworking adventures.


----------



## JesseTutt (Aug 15, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


The o-ring is a good idea. I was thinking of cutting a washer out of 1/16" leather, but I think I will look into the o-ring and save the leather for some other project.


----------



## Richforever (Mar 19, 2008)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I need to do this too.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


Will do Tony. The first time I took pictures of this the dialogue I planned did not make sense, so I will make a point of getting this done on my next stock prep session.

Glad people like this one. It has been a real help to me.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


Thanks Ryan.


----------



## OggieOglethorpe (Aug 15, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


O rings work great on vise handles.

I prefer the other way with screws. Ditch your phillips drivers, and use square heads everywhere.

Of course, period stuff usually gets straight bladed, but once you ditch phillips, you never look back! ;^)


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Tweaks for a Lee Valley Vise Handle*
> 
> I meant to post this in my workbench re-tool blog, but I never took all the picture needed to finish that. Oh well. This is a nice way to make the handle that comes stock with a Lee Valley vise a whole lot better.
> 
> ...


Square drive does get better grip, and I love them when I build a deck, but it just was not working for me here. To each there own. I guess its a matter of which tool you have closer at hand.

I also remember now that I used a much longer screw, the second time (2 1/2 to 3"). The combination of all those factors has kept the knobs from loosening for about a year now.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Reducing Fatigue During Rip Sessions*

Even the most seasoned sawyer can dread a long session of ripping down stock by hand. There are quite a few ways to prevent yourself from burning out, but my personal favorite is to use different muscle groups as I go along.

I will start by ripping on my saw-bench, kneeling on my work. As I go along I switch to this position.










It may look awkward, but it's rather comfortable and gives you an excellent view of your saw for keeping it both plumb and on your cut line.










It's hard to see, but you can actually use your thigh to brace your work at the end of the cut so it comes away cleanly.










A few other things you can do are:

1. Rip and crosscut your components in stages as opposed to all at once. Get those components all finished and ready to join and move to the next stage.

2. Use wax on your saw-plate, I forget to do this often, but I am always amazed by the difference this makes.

3. A tiny wedge like this one can take a lot of pressure off of your saw. Make a few dozen at a time, you will both use them and lose them.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Reducing Fatigue During Rip Sessions*
> 
> Even the most seasoned sawyer can dread a long session of ripping down stock by hand. There are quite a few ways to prevent yourself from burning out, but my personal favorite is to use different muscle groups as I go along.
> 
> ...


I have and do use both the alternate positioning and the wedges. Both learned from your occasional table class. I'll give the wax a try; i know it is a night and day difference on a plane sole. The thigh trick is not so easy on a sawbench but i am picking up what you are laying down.

Thank you for the tutelage Ryan.


----------



## Hayabusa (Jul 7, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Reducing Fatigue During Rip Sessions*
> 
> Even the most seasoned sawyer can dread a long session of ripping down stock by hand. There are quite a few ways to prevent yourself from burning out, but my personal favorite is to use different muscle groups as I go along.
> 
> ...


Well done Ryan, I am very fun of that technique, Alan Breed inverse dovetailsaw usage reminds of this kind of french but the tooth geometry has to change to get the best of it.

I envy your gramercy holdfast by the way 

Keep it up my dear friend, my best wishes from my country


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Reducing Fatigue During Rip Sessions*
> 
> Even the most seasoned sawyer can dread a long session of ripping down stock by hand. There are quite a few ways to prevent yourself from burning out, but my personal favorite is to use different muscle groups as I go along.
> 
> ...


Tony, if you get a second sawbench you can also sit on your work and accomplish the same feat…a very nice trick on REALLY ong cuts.

Julio, in inverse dovetail saw thing is pretty intruging, but I have yet to find an oppurtunity to practice it. The holdfasts are cheap over here and they work very well after you sand the shank a bit. I am curious about the new ones that Lie Nielsen makes. If you end up grabbing those at some point, will you let me know how they work?

My best to you and yours.


----------



## Hayabusa (Jul 7, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Reducing Fatigue During Rip Sessions*
> 
> Even the most seasoned sawyer can dread a long session of ripping down stock by hand. There are quite a few ways to prevent yourself from burning out, but my personal favorite is to use different muscle groups as I go along.
> 
> ...


I like more gramercy ones than lienielsens though they look pretty consintent. These days I have purchased the sawvise from gramercy I think it´s essential to the the most of saw sharpening and I am excited to test it I am developing a new saw sharpening method that i have never seen ever before at any book or site.
Anyway all of the tools I will adquire it´s my pleasure to show you and talk about

See ya man !


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Reducing Fatigue During Rip Sessions*
> 
> Even the most seasoned sawyer can dread a long session of ripping down stock by hand. There are quite a few ways to prevent yourself from burning out, but my personal favorite is to use different muscle groups as I go along.
> 
> ...


I will make a second one eventually, particularly because of how often you have mentioned that having two is useful. The next i build i will try the more simple style like you and Mauricio have made, with the round legs/wedged through M & T. Thank you for the tips.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Reducing Fatigue During Rip Sessions*
> 
> Even the most seasoned sawyer can dread a long session of ripping down stock by hand. There are quite a few ways to prevent yourself from burning out, but my personal favorite is to use different muscle groups as I go along.
> 
> ...


I am a big fan of that style. They are very easy to produce and are exceedingly tough. I recently had about 600lbs of maple stacked on my two benches (then I crawled on top of that because I needed a tool on the other side).

Not too shabby for a couple hours of work.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Reducing Fatigue During Rip Sessions*
> 
> Even the most seasoned sawyer can dread a long session of ripping down stock by hand. There are quite a few ways to prevent yourself from burning out, but my personal favorite is to use different muscle groups as I go along.
> 
> ...


Do you own a table saw Ryan? While I am just beginning to "collect" hand saws, I have a Veritas set of 3 and a Japanese set of 3. In my mind, I think I would probably draw the line at significant rips. I am a wuss…and I am good with that. Respect for the tough guys out there getting it done by hand. Real men, for sure


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Reducing Fatigue During Rip Sessions*
> 
> Even the most seasoned sawyer can dread a long session of ripping down stock by hand. There are quite a few ways to prevent yourself from burning out, but my personal favorite is to use different muscle groups as I go along.
> 
> ...


I do own a table saw…which at some point I should sell, I don't use it.

I really don't have the room to use it comfortably. If I could have my way, I would have a bandsaw, a Jointer/planer/mortiser (Laguna's is pretty), and I would accomplish all the rest by hand (which includes most stock prep, but it would be nice to have the machines at the ready for larger projects with lots of matching parts). I will say this, having the ability to do this sort of thing is still a valuable tool even with machines on staff and at the ready. I like that I can handle all my cutting jobs with a few vintage saws (I think my core kit cost well under $100).

I have a ton of stock right now that I need to resaw for the tills in my chest…and I keep putting it off. I keep hoping a bandsaw will magicly appear. In the mean time, I think I might have to sharpen my 4.5 ppi rip soon.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Reducing Fatigue During Rip Sessions*
> 
> Even the most seasoned sawyer can dread a long session of ripping down stock by hand. There are quite a few ways to prevent yourself from burning out, but my personal favorite is to use different muscle groups as I go along.
> 
> ...


Good advice Ryan.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Quick Glue Spreader*

When I need to do a lamination I like an even bead of glue throughout the piece. I pick up an off-cut (most tenon cheeks are about the right size) and make one of these.










A little bit of saw work.










And you have a useful little tool. Forget to clean it…make another.


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Quick Glue Spreader*
> 
> When I need to do a lamination I like an even bead of glue throughout the piece. I pick up an off-cut (most tenon cheeks are about the right size) and make one of these.
> 
> ...


Without a sketchup model I can't make it. Do you have one?

Thanks for the tip.


----------



## balidoug (Aug 13, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Quick Glue Spreader*
> 
> When I need to do a lamination I like an even bead of glue throughout the piece. I pick up an off-cut (most tenon cheeks are about the right size) and make one of these.
> 
> ...


That's why you're my go-to guy. I've been using popsicle sticks for smaller glue jobs, but this looks great for the larger ones.


----------



## JesseTutt (Aug 15, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Quick Glue Spreader*
> 
> When I need to do a lamination I like an even bead of glue throughout the piece. I pick up an off-cut (most tenon cheeks are about the right size) and make one of these.
> 
> ...


Better design than the notched trowel I use especially for hard to clean up glues


----------



## widdle (Mar 10, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Quick Glue Spreader*
> 
> When I need to do a lamination I like an even bead of glue throughout the piece. I pick up an off-cut (most tenon cheeks are about the right size) and make one of these.
> 
> ...


Reminds me of my dovetails…


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Quick Glue Spreader*
> 
> When I need to do a lamination I like an even bead of glue throughout the piece. I pick up an off-cut (most tenon cheeks are about the right size) and make one of these.
> 
> ...


Good one!


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Quick Glue Spreader*
> 
> When I need to do a lamination I like an even bead of glue throughout the piece. I pick up an off-cut (most tenon cheeks are about the right size) and make one of these.
> 
> ...


I'm a newbie, could you do a "Tutorial Blog" on the making of your glue spreader? I have a chainsaw, would that work for the cuts??? ;^)


----------



## NGK (Mar 2, 2013)

RGtools said:


> *Quick Glue Spreader*
> 
> When I need to do a lamination I like an even bead of glue throughout the piece. I pick up an off-cut (most tenon cheeks are about the right size) and make one of these.
> 
> ...


Use a three-cornered file to cut notches any size you desire on the edge of a credit card, putty knife, etc.


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Quick Glue Spreader*
> 
> When I need to do a lamination I like an even bead of glue throughout the piece. I pick up an off-cut (most tenon cheeks are about the right size) and make one of these.
> 
> ...


This is good idea. I do something similar by cutting small teeth on my scroll saw. First I make shallow cuts at about an 45deg. angle all in the same direction across a thick veneer, then I turn it over and make the same cuts on the other side to form the pointed teeth. Lastly I run the teeth edge on a little sandpaper to make sure they are all the same length.


----------



## JayT (May 6, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Quick Glue Spreader*
> 
> When I need to do a lamination I like an even bead of glue throughout the piece. I pick up an off-cut (most tenon cheeks are about the right size) and make one of these.
> 
> ...


That works. My glue spreader is a cheap plastic putty knife that I notched with a utility knife (NGK's triangular file would have been a better way of doing it) With most glues, I can just let them dry and then they pop right off and ready to use again. Total investment was less than 50 cents, so I won't feel bad if something happens to it.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Quick Glue Spreader*
> 
> When I need to do a lamination I like an even bead of glue throughout the piece. I pick up an off-cut (most tenon cheeks are about the right size) and make one of these.
> 
> ...


Love the credit card idea. I think I have an old Blockbuster card I don't use anymore.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Quick Glue Spreader*
> 
> When I need to do a lamination I like an even bead of glue throughout the piece. I pick up an off-cut (most tenon cheeks are about the right size) and make one of these.
> 
> ...


Nice.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*When a Marking Knife Won't Do *

Sometimes you will be faced with the challenge of fitting assembly to another (a molding to a carcase for instance). In cases like this it is best to use one piece to fit the other; the fancy term for this behavior being "verify in field".

In the perfect world both your molding and your carcase would be square and you could easily do this with a knife. But you will often have little gaps from being out square. These gaps make it difficult to use a layout knife with any accuracy.










You could put yourself through the misery of squaring the exterior carcase to get things to fit flat, but I have a different solution. Get a bigger knife. Here I am using a plane blade. The large bearing surface gives much better registration to the carcase allowing me to mark a very solid baseline for my dovetails.










You can also press the mating board against the carcase to strike a second line. This line will be the length of your molding.



















Now, go have some fun.


----------



## MyChipCarving (Nov 4, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *When a Marking Knife Won't Do *
> 
> Sometimes you will be faced with the challenge of fitting assembly to another (a molding to a carcase for instance). In cases like this it is best to use one piece to fit the other; the fancy term for this behavior being "verify in field".
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing. Ideas like yours help keep me from mindlessly doing what I've always done.


----------



## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *When a Marking Knife Won't Do *
> 
> Sometimes you will be faced with the challenge of fitting assembly to another (a molding to a carcase for instance). In cases like this it is best to use one piece to fit the other; the fancy term for this behavior being "verify in field".
> 
> ...


Looks like a solid tip. Will have to try this one out some time.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *When a Marking Knife Won't Do *
> 
> Sometimes you will be faced with the challenge of fitting assembly to another (a molding to a carcase for instance). In cases like this it is best to use one piece to fit the other; the fancy term for this behavior being "verify in field".
> 
> ...


Ryan, I think your making a point that things don't have to be perfect to be perfect. Keep up the good (no great) work.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *When a Marking Knife Won't Do *
> 
> Sometimes you will be faced with the challenge of fitting assembly to another (a molding to a carcase for instance). In cases like this it is best to use one piece to fit the other; the fancy term for this behavior being "verify in field".
> 
> ...


They don't need to be perfect, they just need to fit.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *When a Marking Knife Won't Do *
> 
> Sometimes you will be faced with the challenge of fitting assembly to another (a molding to a carcase for instance). In cases like this it is best to use one piece to fit the other; the fancy term for this behavior being "verify in field".
> 
> ...


^Unless you have a raging case of OCD, then you are screwed until the bourbon kicks in.

Honestly i hope what Don brings up and that which you and Smitty demonstrate, on occasion, will eventually sink in. I am getting better as time goes by.

Great tip. Thanks Ryan.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *When a Marking Knife Won't Do *
> 
> Sometimes you will be faced with the challenge of fitting assembly to another (a molding to a carcase for instance). In cases like this it is best to use one piece to fit the other; the fancy term for this behavior being "verify in field".
> 
> ...


Nice tip Ryan!


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Layout Speed Tip.*

This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.

One such task is marking the layout lines of a board to cut it square. If you have been working with hand tools for even a short time you have probably heard to "Reference only from your true face and true edge". This is sage wisdom, but let's add a bit to it. Start on your true face across the true edge. Like so.










Once you have marked one line, rotate the piece towards the true edge. Like so (forgive the blur, but I have been trying to post this tip for a while and I kind of give up on the photo shoot…sorry)










Then flip your square over and do the other two sides.



















Why do it this way? Because you only have to flip your square over once…I told you it's a rather neurotic, but it will save you time and headache on days where you are doing this with a lot of components.

Here is what I mean. About 30 seconds to lay out the end.

For reasons beyond my understanding, I am unable to post this video, despite having been able to post it successfully in the Measuring and Marking Tools or Your Dreams forum (also despite the fact that the video worked at first). When I figure it out I will edit and bump the post. Sorry.

Bonus tip per Brit (I hope you don't mind):

*Another tip which you did on the video but didn't talk about was to set your marking knife in the indentation left by marking the previous face and move your square up to the knife. Guaranteed accuracy.*

Cheers!

https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=10151599736615229


----------



## LeslieC (Aug 27, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip!


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


You are the man Ryan


----------



## Michael1 (Feb 12, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


Nice tip, Thanks for sharing. Anything that saves time adds up and after a while its like having an extra hour in the shop!!


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


I couldn't agree more Ryan. Another tip which you did on the video but didn't talk about was to set your marking knife in the indentation left by marking the previous face and move your square up to the knife. Gauranteed accuracy.

Keep 'em coming my friend.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


^I knew someone would catch that.

Edit: added to the main post. Thanks Andy.


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


I've got your back. )


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


Nice tip Ryan. Thanks.

Video is missing if you did not know.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


Not sure why it is fouling up (It worked this morning). I will try to fix this tonight, perhaps I should get a You tube account and set up that way.


----------



## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


In the name of efficiency I have given up rotating my square around the four sides. Even with knife marks and using the "butt to knife" technique, I rarely come out precisely even on the fourth side. Incremental errors accumulate, even tiny ones. I mark the reference length on sides diagonally opposite (it's more rare to make the same mistake twice) and using a short piece (6") of 1" aluminum angle (aluminum angle "irons" have sharp inside corners) with carefully squared ends, mark two sides at once with one setting. If I need to cross a wider piece to the other side, then I butt the square up, but usually 2" coverage is sufficient. A wider angle could be used. Just my .02.
Another small item of accuracy I learned from another woodworker so long ago I cannot remember who. A single bevel marking knife makes a kerf that is vertical (perpendicular to the marked surface) on one side and beveled on the other. For greatest accuracy, one wants the bevel side of the mark to be in the waste. Because a knife mark is so fine, one doesn't readily think of that in the doing. It's important when setting a chisel or chasing a mark around a board.
DanK


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


Here is a Tip that may help you with the pictures:

1. Use a tripod.

2. When you're posed & ready for the shot, set to use the camera timer…

3. Click the shutter… (it will wait about 10 seconds or so… Then, click the picture.)

4. Results in NO BLUR from hand movements.

Another possible reason might be is that you're too close for your lens…
... put your camera into Macro Mode, which lets you shoot real close while staying in focus.

Thank you for your Tip…. Very good!


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


FINALLY!!!!!!!! I am not sure why the video worked this time, I tried edit and preview over and over until the darn thing showed up.

Can't explain, but I am not editing it again.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


Thank ya sir.

I covet your marking knife.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


Well worth the investment Tony, it marks the way for a lot of your other tools.


----------



## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


Ryan, it must be warm in your shop with all that R-13 insulation in the corner.

EDIT: who is the maker of said marking knife?


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


Blue Spruce.

...and soon as my toolchest is done that stuff is getting crammed in the walls.


----------



## RaggedKerf (Aug 5, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Layout Speed Tip.*
> 
> This might seem totally obsessive, but I am an efficiency Nazi in my shop. Wasted movements drive me crazy and any time I can get into a habit that saves me a few seconds it makes me happy. This is of course especially true in the case of repetitive tasks.
> 
> ...


Very cool tip, thanks!


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Dead Blow Mallet, to Mar or Not to Mar?*

I don't know ab dead blow mallet both in and out of the shop. I just find all kinds of rough tasks for it on the farm (and sometimes in the shop). The problem is that I also use the thing for disassembling joints the those rough tasks that chew up the mallet face can translate to dented work.

The solution is simple, mark one face for Rough work and one for Fine. How you mark your mallet is up to you, but I liked this.










Problem Solved.


----------



## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Dead Blow Mallet, to Mar or Not to Mar?*
> 
> I don't know ab dead blow mallet both in and out of the shop. I just find all kinds of rough tasks for it on the farm (and sometimes in the shop). The problem is that I also use the thing for disassembling joints the those rough tasks that chew up the mallet face can translate to dented work.
> 
> ...


Nice tip, Ryan. Does the other side have a happy face?


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dead Blow Mallet, to Mar or Not to Mar?*
> 
> I don't know ab dead blow mallet both in and out of the shop. I just find all kinds of rough tasks for it on the farm (and sometimes in the shop). The problem is that I also use the thing for disassembling joints the those rough tasks that chew up the mallet face can translate to dented work.
> 
> ...


No, I was worried that the marker would mark my work so I left that blank….not that I was not tempted.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dead Blow Mallet, to Mar or Not to Mar?*
> 
> I don't know ab dead blow mallet both in and out of the shop. I just find all kinds of rough tasks for it on the farm (and sometimes in the shop). The problem is that I also use the thing for disassembling joints the those rough tasks that chew up the mallet face can translate to dented work.
> 
> ...


so the frown is for rough work? Good advice. Mark everything, but then you need to pay attention to the marks


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Dead Blow Mallet, to Mar or Not to Mar?*
> 
> I don't know ab dead blow mallet both in and out of the shop. I just find all kinds of rough tasks for it on the farm (and sometimes in the shop). The problem is that I also use the thing for disassembling joints the those rough tasks that chew up the mallet face can translate to dented work.
> 
> ...


it looks sad…


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Dead Blow Mallet, to Mar or Not to Mar?*
> 
> I don't know ab dead blow mallet both in and out of the shop. I just find all kinds of rough tasks for it on the farm (and sometimes in the shop). The problem is that I also use the thing for disassembling joints the those rough tasks that chew up the mallet face can translate to dented work.
> 
> ...


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dead Blow Mallet, to Mar or Not to Mar?*
> 
> I don't know ab dead blow mallet both in and out of the shop. I just find all kinds of rough tasks for it on the farm (and sometimes in the shop). The problem is that I also use the thing for disassembling joints the those rough tasks that chew up the mallet face can translate to dented work.
> 
> ...


You'd be sad to if you had the daylights beat out of you.


----------



## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Dead Blow Mallet, to Mar or Not to Mar?*
> 
> I don't know ab dead blow mallet both in and out of the shop. I just find all kinds of rough tasks for it on the farm (and sometimes in the shop). The problem is that I also use the thing for disassembling joints the those rough tasks that chew up the mallet face can translate to dented work.
> 
> ...


lol….....nice idea.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dead Blow Mallet, to Mar or Not to Mar?*
> 
> I don't know ab dead blow mallet both in and out of the shop. I just find all kinds of rough tasks for it on the farm (and sometimes in the shop). The problem is that I also use the thing for disassembling joints the those rough tasks that chew up the mallet face can translate to dented work.
> 
> ...


Going around with that depressed look on its face would only illicit more beatings, i imagine.

Thanks for the tip Ryan.


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

RGtools said:


> *Dead Blow Mallet, to Mar or Not to Mar?*
> 
> I don't know ab dead blow mallet both in and out of the shop. I just find all kinds of rough tasks for it on the farm (and sometimes in the shop). The problem is that I also use the thing for disassembling joints the those rough tasks that chew up the mallet face can translate to dented work.
> 
> ...


should have gone with something like this:


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dead Blow Mallet, to Mar or Not to Mar?*
> 
> I don't know ab dead blow mallet both in and out of the shop. I just find all kinds of rough tasks for it on the farm (and sometimes in the shop). The problem is that I also use the thing for disassembling joints the those rough tasks that chew up the mallet face can translate to dented work.
> 
> ...


^Yup.

And maybe a flame job on the sides emanating from the rough-work end.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dead Blow Mallet, to Mar or Not to Mar?*
> 
> I don't know ab dead blow mallet both in and out of the shop. I just find all kinds of rough tasks for it on the farm (and sometimes in the shop). The problem is that I also use the thing for disassembling joints the those rough tasks that chew up the mallet face can translate to dented work.
> 
> ...


LOL. I will keep that in mind for my next mallet.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Dealing with a Bad End Vise, the Quick and Dirty Way*

When planing across the grain your end vise should still hold…mine does not. The vise was a freebie from my Grandfather and the machining is very sloppy, do not buy a vise like this, it will irritate you immensely.

But if you happen to have one, and your work keeps popping out of your dogs, two finish nails can solve your problem. Just make sure they are low enough to avoid your plane blade.










Sometimes having an ugly bench is a great thing.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dealing with a Bad End Vise, the Quick and Dirty Way*
> 
> When planing across the grain your end vise should still hold…mine does not. The vise was a freebie from my Grandfather and the machining is very sloppy, do not buy a vise like this, it will irritate you immensely.
> 
> ...


use a screw! easier to get out!


----------



## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Dealing with a Bad End Vise, the Quick and Dirty Way*
> 
> When planing across the grain your end vise should still hold…mine does not. The vise was a freebie from my Grandfather and the machining is very sloppy, do not buy a vise like this, it will irritate you immensely.
> 
> ...


Maybe another photo is needed here, but what are you nailing to, the vise chop or the bench?


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dealing with a Bad End Vise, the Quick and Dirty Way*
> 
> When planing across the grain your end vise should still hold…mine does not. The vise was a freebie from my Grandfather and the machining is very sloppy, do not buy a vise like this, it will irritate you immensely.
> 
> ...


Screws work well, but they take longer and they can mar your work (depending on the screw type). That's not to say they don't do an awesome job.

Right in the bench Brandon, two nails, one on the front end one on the back, I will add pictures though to make it more clear. what is being done here,


----------



## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Dealing with a Bad End Vise, the Quick and Dirty Way*
> 
> When planing across the grain your end vise should still hold…mine does not. The vise was a freebie from my Grandfather and the machining is very sloppy, do not buy a vise like this, it will irritate you immensely.
> 
> ...


I got you. So you have something on all four sides of the wood keeping it in place, right?


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Dealing with a Bad End Vise, the Quick and Dirty Way*
> 
> When planing across the grain your end vise should still hold…mine does not. The vise was a freebie from my Grandfather and the machining is very sloppy, do not buy a vise like this, it will irritate you immensely.
> 
> ...


Ryan, are you using wooden dogs? If so you should try some of the Veritas brass dogs. They are very grippy and work great. Worth the money I think.

I actually did a review on them here: http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3246


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dealing with a Bad End Vise, the Quick and Dirty Way*
> 
> When planing across the grain your end vise should still hold…mine does not. The vise was a freebie from my Grandfather and the machining is very sloppy, do not buy a vise like this, it will irritate you immensely.
> 
> ...


*Mauricio*, I actually use the brass dogs and am a fan. The issue is the slop in my vise loses grip on my work unless I crank down like a guerrilla…this of course deforms your work and does not help when trying to plane things flat.

*Brandon*, the set up is as follows: Two dogs gripping the end grain, nails on the exit side of the planing stroke to prevent the peice being pulled from the dogs. Nothing needed to restrain movement in the return direction. This set up is nice when you have a lot of similar width and length components to work through (such as drawer stock).


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dealing with a Bad End Vise, the Quick and Dirty Way*
> 
> When planing across the grain your end vise should still hold…mine does not. The vise was a freebie from my Grandfather and the machining is very sloppy, do not buy a vise like this, it will irritate you immensely.
> 
> ...


Not an attempt to discredit your tip but i am a practitioner of this method. I have a thin batten that i screw to the table i use as a bench. It works well for me.

Ryan do you run into a lot of stalwart rebel fighters up there in the Pacific northwest??


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dealing with a Bad End Vise, the Quick and Dirty Way*
> 
> When planing across the grain your end vise should still hold…mine does not. The vise was a freebie from my Grandfather and the machining is very sloppy, do not buy a vise like this, it will irritate you immensely.
> 
> ...


I did not think about the batten…it has crossed my mind for several times but for some reason I never tried it. Alright, I will give that a try.

Rebel Fighters? Please clarify for this sheltered soul.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dealing with a Bad End Vise, the Quick and Dirty Way*
> 
> When planing across the grain your end vise should still hold…mine does not. The vise was a freebie from my Grandfather and the machining is very sloppy, do not buy a vise like this, it will irritate you immensely.
> 
> ...


"…I crank down like a *guerrilla*…"

Just busting nuts.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *

I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".

...but they don't just move things.










Here I have set up a lever of sorts. The fulcrum being the bench dog, and the clamp being Archimedes. Because of mechanical advantage it would take a tremendous amount of force to move the lever from the end near my vise.

*Why is this needed?*










Because re-sawing oak with a coarse ripsaw generates a ton of force.










And it's best that your stop not interfere with your saw.










After a fair amount of sawdust….










The end result.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *
> 
> I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".
> 
> ...


Very useful tip…will record this in me brain for future use!

Thanks, Ryan.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *
> 
> I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".
> 
> ...


Never occurred to my progressive Luddite mind to do this! Apparently you think before you act, I'm going to try this, the lever that is. I'm still working on the thinking part.
Great tip, thanks


----------



## BrandonW (Apr 27, 2010)

RGtools said:


> *Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *
> 
> I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".
> 
> ...


Another good suggestion, Ryan. Keep these coming.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *
> 
> I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".
> 
> ...


The end result is a whole lot of sexy.

Awesome tip. Thank ya sir.

Did you actually keep sawing until you were between the jaws of the vise or was that picture just staged for the photo?

+1 Brandon.

p.s. I see a tool well in use and free of detritus. Are you attempting to appease the woodworking gods?


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *
> 
> I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".
> 
> ...


The tool well is full of junk on most occasions despite my efforts to keep it clean. The fact that you only see a few tools in there in the shot is pure freaking luck.

As far as if I saw inbetween the jaws of my vise. Yes I do, but not all the way through. Getting the stop out of the way of the saw allows me to get most of the way through the work before using a different tactic to finish the cut. By the time I am done, 1 end is cut though, both edges are cut through and the remaining end may have half it's meat left. The remaining triangle inside the peice gets cut out using overhand sawing or by flipping the work over in the vise.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *
> 
> I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".
> 
> ...


Sawing that far in between the jaws dose not bind the saw? I am going to have to try it.

I really like this entire tip; re-sawing is an awkward ordeal for me. Thanks bud.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *
> 
> I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".
> 
> ...


If you hold by the corner of the wood you can get pretty far before you can feel binding. Time to finish off another way. If you keep flipping your work over you can get VERY far.

I also learned that bench sawing with the overhand approach works pretty quickly on longer stock. I'll have to take a picture of that.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *
> 
> I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".
> 
> ...


corner hold / flipping work …. okay i can totally see how it does not bind with that method. Thanks for the clarification.

Bench sawing? Is that the same as what you demonstrate in your occasional table class? I am a big fan of overhand for long cuts; less fatigue and better accuracy (in my experience).


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *
> 
> I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".
> 
> ...


Yes, I finally figured out a way to do resaw cuts at the bench. I will get a picture, but the set up works like this:

Saw for the first little bit as normal (as shown above). When a large enough kerf has be established, place the work on a batten attached to your bench leg and in your vise. The cut edge on the batten, the uncut edge in your vise, sitting on the first available guide rod (giving you more cut clearance). This racks your vise a tiny bit, but is actually helpful. Keep flipping your work around for accuracy until you can go no further. Finish as normal.

It might be mental trickery, but I swear this goes faster than cutting at the vise.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *
> 
> I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".
> 
> ...


I love the idea of you sharing these tips.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *
> 
> I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".
> 
> ...


Thanks Mads, it is a good tradition on this site, and I have enjoyed the dialogue that it usually starts.

Hope the world is treating you kindly.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *
> 
> I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".
> 
> ...


I am looking forward to a picture so that i know i have the batten positioning correct. Thanks Ryan.


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

RGtools said:


> *Using Leverage to Keep Things in Place. *
> 
> I believe it was Archimedes who once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." a more succinct way to say it would be, "levers are awesome".
> 
> ...


These days life is more than kind to me, infact I feel blessed in many fronts and are meeting steams of kindness.
Smiles,
Mads


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*No Pencil Gauge? No Sweat.*

I do a fair bit of layout work with a pencil. I find it's a quick way to figure things out on a unique project, or a unique piece of wood that you want to get all the cuts "just right".

Normally, I use a combination square as a pencil gauge when I am trying to get the width of a workpiece. As it happens, both my combo squares had settings I did not feel like losing, so I borrowed a very old carpenters trick.










Holding your hands like this you can use a rule to mark out a line that will easily be within a 16th of an inch of where you want it. Just slide the whole works down the board to mark out your width (notice how my finger is riding against the edge of the board…that's the depth stop).

Simple huh?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *No Pencil Gauge? No Sweat.*
> 
> I do a fair bit of layout work with a pencil. I find it's a quick way to figure things out on a unique project, or a unique piece of wood that you want to get all the cuts "just right".
> 
> ...


Now take a triangular saw file and nick both ends of the rule, in the brass, so the pencil has a place to ride without slipping.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *No Pencil Gauge? No Sweat.*
> 
> I do a fair bit of layout work with a pencil. I find it's a quick way to figure things out on a unique project, or a unique piece of wood that you want to get all the cuts "just right".
> 
> ...


and place your index finger on the corner of the square to help hold the pencil in place. The corner helps hold the finger.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *No Pencil Gauge? No Sweat.*
> 
> I do a fair bit of layout work with a pencil. I find it's a quick way to figure things out on a unique project, or a unique piece of wood that you want to get all the cuts "just right".
> 
> ...


^thank both of you for getting my back. Don, because I posed the shot and messed up the positioning on my pencil holding hand, and Smitty, for convincing me to nick my rule with a saw file (totally going to do that by the way).


----------



## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *No Pencil Gauge? No Sweat.*
> 
> I do a fair bit of layout work with a pencil. I find it's a quick way to figure things out on a unique project, or a unique piece of wood that you want to get all the cuts "just right".
> 
> ...


Great trick.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *No Pencil Gauge? No Sweat.*
> 
> I do a fair bit of layout work with a pencil. I find it's a quick way to figure things out on a unique project, or a unique piece of wood that you want to get all the cuts "just right".
> 
> ...


Teamwork tips. 

Good stuff, thank ya fellas.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*Dovetail Tip; Mark Your Mistakes Early*

There are an awful lot of errors you can see well before a test fit. I have found that the earlier I make note of them, the more likely I am to catch them and clean them up before they are an issue.










Here you can see two places I ran afoul of my cut line, I can clean that up once the waste is cleaned out of the tail sockets.


----------



## RaggedKerf (Aug 5, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Dovetail Tip; Mark Your Mistakes Early*
> 
> There are an awful lot of errors you can see well before a test fit. I have found that the earlier I make note of them, the more likely I am to catch them and clean them up before they are an issue.
> 
> ...


Okay, I really need to practice my dovetails…I just spent 5 minutes trying to figure out where you ran afoul of your cut line…I kept thinking, man, I wish my lines were that nice, where is the mistake? lol I was looking at the lines and missed the arrows.

My problem is usually going too deep because I'm not paying enough attention to where I'm supposed to stop cutting…and I'm not good enough to know where the saw blade is cutting. But that's what scrap wood's for, right?


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dovetail Tip; Mark Your Mistakes Early*
> 
> There are an awful lot of errors you can see well before a test fit. I have found that the earlier I make note of them, the more likely I am to catch them and clean them up before they are an issue.
> 
> ...


*RaggedKerf* Try this on for size, it's a bit slower, but it's a good way to learn and a good way to do cuts that have to be perfect. Cut a small kerf in the end of the board to start your cut, then as you work use more pressur on the back end of the saw, tilting it back as you go. This will avoid cutting much int the kerf of the back side, while following the line you can see. When you about touch your line bring the saw level and work your way down. You can look at the back of the cut as you go, so you can check that your level. If you use a light touch, your saw will follow your other kerfs, so you can go ahead and focus on depth.

This is an almost essential technique on tenons.


----------



## RaggedKerf (Aug 5, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Dovetail Tip; Mark Your Mistakes Early*
> 
> There are an awful lot of errors you can see well before a test fit. I have found that the earlier I make note of them, the more likely I am to catch them and clean them up before they are an issue.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip! I will try that…at least it makes sense in my head at the moment!


----------



## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

RGtools said:


> *Dovetail Tip; Mark Your Mistakes Early*
> 
> There are an awful lot of errors you can see well before a test fit. I have found that the earlier I make note of them, the more likely I am to catch them and clean them up before they are an issue.
> 
> ...


Thanks. Hand cut dovetails are on my list to practice this year. Kind funny, all the power tools I have and I drew the line at a dovetail jig. Just feels like cheating;-)


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dovetail Tip; Mark Your Mistakes Early*
> 
> There are an awful lot of errors you can see well before a test fit. I have found that the earlier I make note of them, the more likely I am to catch them and clean them up before they are an issue.
> 
> ...


That's a pretty good line to draw. Cutting them by hand give you a heck of a lot more control over the final look of your work.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dovetail Tip; Mark Your Mistakes Early*
> 
> There are an awful lot of errors you can see well before a test fit. I have found that the earlier I make note of them, the more likely I am to catch them and clean them up before they are an issue.
> 
> ...


You have identified the problem, how did you go about remedying it?


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dovetail Tip; Mark Your Mistakes Early*
> 
> There are an awful lot of errors you can see well before a test fit. I have found that the earlier I make note of them, the more likely I am to catch them and clean them up before they are an issue.
> 
> ...


Two ways to fix this one.

Pare it down with a chisel after you have removed the waste betwen the pins.

Or use light pressure from your fingertips on the saw plate to chew away the waste you missed the first time.


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dovetail Tip; Mark Your Mistakes Early*
> 
> There are an awful lot of errors you can see well before a test fit. I have found that the earlier I make note of them, the more likely I am to catch them and clean them up before they are an issue.
> 
> ...


I often get myself in trouble with the pare in that case, ill have to try the saw method. I am feeling more and more comfortable with a saw in hand.

Thank you bud.


----------



## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dovetail Tip; Mark Your Mistakes Early*
> 
> There are an awful lot of errors you can see well before a test fit. I have found that the earlier I make note of them, the more likely I am to catch them and clean them up before they are an issue.
> 
> ...


I find when i do hand cut dovetails, I mark the good ones. I know everything else needs work. Fewer pencil marks that way.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *Dovetail Tip; Mark Your Mistakes Early*
> 
> There are an awful lot of errors you can see well before a test fit. I have found that the earlier I make note of them, the more likely I am to catch them and clean them up before they are an issue.
> 
> ...


^Don. You my friend are just plane awesome. And yes I used the wrong word on purpose.


----------



## RGtools (Feb 18, 2011)

*A Bit More About Resawing*

Generally the aim of resawing a piece of wood s to divide in neatly in half. One thing you have to account for is the kerf of the saw. If you place a line dead center, one side will end up thinner than the other. For this reason you can offset the line from the center by the width of your kerf (this is a measurement you will be able to eyeball with some ease after converting a couple hundred yards of wood into sawdust).

It occurs to me that I should have taken some photos of that layout process in case some are unfamiliar with finding the center of a board with a cutting gauge (I will post that another day).

What I wanted to point out was now that you have off centered your line you have to remember which side to stay on. During a resaw you are constantly flipping your work over so it's easy to get confused. Too keep things straight, I make a long pencil mark on one side of the line (waste for me, but pick a system and stick to it).










Also, here is a picture of a fairly decent set up for resawing using the overhand grip at the bench. Use a shorter batten than I did though as it will help you to avoid bonking your saw into it as you start the cut. You could even forget the batten and just drive a screw into your bench at a depth that the head would keep the kerf open (I have not tried this yet…but I am going to).


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

RGtools said:


> *A Bit More About Resawing*
> 
> Generally the aim of resawing a piece of wood s to divide in neatly in half. One thing you have to account for is the kerf of the saw. If you place a line dead center, one side will end up thinner than the other. For this reason you can offset the line from the center by the width of your kerf (this is a measurement you will be able to eyeball with some ease after converting a couple hundred yards of wood into sawdust).
> 
> ...


Excellent. Thanks Ryan.


----------

