# How do I save this bowl?



## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

If you look toward the back, about the one o'clock position, you can see a missing chunk. The bowl broke off my Nova chuck and when remounted, doesn't want to stay. I don't think I have enough bottom left to use a screw chuck. I thought of using a glue block but not sure how I would get it back out. Also I have no Longsworth or Cole jaws so I can fix the bottom. Ideas?


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

That's a bummer, Rick. That is a gorgeous piece of wood.

How much work do you have left to do? Is the inside hollowed or do you still need to take out more material?

You could use a face plate with a plywood disk along with your live center on the tailstock to work on the bottom … I would suggest making a 'soft touch' for your live center.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

The inside is about 1/2 done.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Do you have any more of that wood? If yes, it appears you have a "hollow" on the bottom and maybe you could cut a "plug" to fill that hollow. Glue it in and have a flat-bottomed bowl, instead of one with the hollow

I'm not a turner, just trying to brainstorm an idea here for ya.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Joe, sometimes the best ideas come from the outside looking in. Unfortunately I don't have more and even more unfortunate is the piece that broke off disintegrated so I can't glue it back on. This is/was a spalted silver maple burl.

Edit: Since I'm in no hurry, I'll build a set of cole jaws for my Nova, fix the bottom then glue in a block of padauk and just leave it. It'll make a nice contrast.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Can a waste block sit flat and centered in recess?

Would turn a waste block smaller diameter than recess so chuck can grip and hold once waste block glued in. Have to insure glue block almost perfectly centered before gluing. I would use carpenter glue and wait a day to turn. Had bad luck using CA glue.

I would use my center finder to find and mark center on bottom of the bowls recess. Talking about using an awl to make small indent (hole) center of the recess. Same thing with waste block, only would drill hole in center of waste block so could use a nail or screw to find indent made in recess.

Have mounted waste block in chuck with nail sticking out 1/8" or 3/16", applied glue, married up nail with indent (hole) in base of bowl brought up the tailstock to clamp in place for glue to dry.

I used a homemade donut chuck for revere turning where completely turn away waste block.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

Rick … When you solve the problem and finish the bowl, post a followup. I'd like to know how you fixed it and see the end result!


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

How about building a doughnut chuck-


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## JollyGreen67 (Nov 1, 2010)

Rick - I believe Lew has the best idea. I made one and have used it several times to finish irregular turnings.


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Wow Lew, that's some contraption. I'll have to think about that.


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## Randy_ATX (Sep 18, 2011)

Rick are you certain of the species? I would have bet money that was a piece of live oak. I've got a lot of it that looks just like yours. Best of luck fixing it.


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## alexdom_89 (Feb 11, 2012)

What about jam chucking it and support it with the tail stock to recut a tennon I've done this with burly mesquite


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Rick, how big is the recess, and how deep is it? If possible, glue in a waste block, turn a tenon on it, correct the break at the recess or eliminate the recess completely. Put the tenon in the chuck and turn the bowl to completion. 
If I can post a picture, I'll show you what to use to finish the bottoms of all my forms. I've been using it for almost a year now without issues. Donut chucks are dangerous, a Longworth might hold it if you turn slowly and take micro cuts. A vacumm chuck might do it, but has limitations also… 
I think I successfully uploaded a picture. If you have any questions, I have other tools that work together with this live center. Ask, and I'll show what have. 
The picture shows a threaded live center with struts and wheels. The struts have 1" adjustment combining with the live center body allowing up to 3 1/4" total distance from nose to end of wheels. Pedastal bases up to that distance are easy, as long as it's only 2 3/4" wide.
BTW, that's a nice looking piece of oak. it needs to be saved.. ..... ...... .....Jerry (in Tucson)


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Jerry that's an interesting gizmo.

A lot of people recommended a jam chuck so I thought I'd give that a try since it only takes a minute to make one. And although my lathe is very cramped, it was working… BUT, the wood down there is too far gone, too spalted, which is why it came off the chuck in the first place. I'll pick up some wood hardener and soak it down, try again.

Oh, and I don't know where silver maple burl came from, lol, it's none of those things; it's crotch oak. Must be the Mad Cow setting in.

You can see how cramped I am for space.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Gizmo????? That's a serious tool. I invented it. Made the live center from 1 3/4" bar stock, turned the MT2 taper, threaded the body, and strut ring on a lathe. The only things I bought was the bar stock, bearings, bolts and wheels. The rest came from my mind, plus a friends generosity letting me use his mill and lathe. And to top it off, I'm a cabinet maker, not a machinist. 
I use this tool , Live Center Steady with my Chuck Plate I also invented. I use it for forming tenons and the general outside shape of my forms, then again at the tenon removing stage. It's used with a large plate or plug as a jam chuck. The Live Center Steady is used to apply pressure to keep the form between centers to remove the tenon and sand the bottom while still between centers. I've done at least 50 forms, and only lost 2, and that was when it was first designed with no experience with it. I almost gave up, but kept on trying until I can't turn without it now. 
Boy, you are crowded. What lathe do you have and what is your taper in the quill? If your bottom is flat, you're still good to go for a waste block and turn a tenon on it. That would disperse the pressures better than that tailstock support you're showing …............. Jerry (in Tucson)


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Sorry Jerry, didn't mean anything negative; it's impressive, I just didn't know what to call it. I'd love to see a video of it in action.

Lathe is a 50's era Craftsman/King Seeley 9×30; 1MT head & tail. It's actually a decent lathe for spindles.

The bottom of the bowl is not quite flat. I originally turned this some months back and it's moved a little out of shape since then. The jam chuck worked well enough but the base is just so punky.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Don't fret, Rick. I was just being a smart a## with the "Gizmo" remark… When I first started using it, I took it over to a freinds to do some videos, and after one hour and 7 forms, he called it a, "Gadget".... I do have videos, but am waiting for the Patent attorney to get back with official notice of "Patent Applied for" before I post any…. 
I hope you can save the bowl as it is a beautiful piece of wood…. .... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

BTW … the 'Gizmo' is a pretty sophisticated hollowing system: http://www.jtturningtools.com/node/38


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

Rick

I was going to say using a jam chuck or donut chuck like lews. I have put on alot of thin CA glue on spalted turnings before to make them stronger to turn you might be able to do the same. All you have to do is turn the foot off and just have a smaller flat foot.

Arlin


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## GaryC (Dec 31, 2008)

I hope you got it saved. Like to see it finished


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## Mahdeew (Jul 24, 2013)

Hi Rick,
As it relates to the missing chunk of wood, I have in the past brushed a dab of fiberglass rosen to the broken area and after it dried, applied enough Bondo to slightly exceed the broken piece. Sand it to match the rest of the bowl. Use color pencils to match the grain and background.
Hope that helps


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I haven't given up nor made any progress; thought it might be a good idea to practice up and play around with other workholding ideas. There were a couple of suggestions to strengthen the spalted wood by soaking; white glue and water was one suggestion, plexiglass or acrylic melted in acetone was another suggestion. I'll play around with these on scrap wood before using them on the bowl.


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

Rick, did you get the piece that broke out- looks like a clean break?? I have had this happen several times with turnings and flat work. I stop right away and look for that piece and put it back in with Titebond III.
If I can find it and have wood with that same grain, I machine the area and insert the new wood withTB-3 and finish turning or planing, etc.

For that piece, after I put a piece of wood back in the torn area, I'd glue a small round block to the bottom of the piece, load it over a jam chuck and using the pointed center, rotate the piece by hand until you find a very good centering spot with the center point and then bury it in that block of wood. Turn the repaired area and then turn off that round block as you would a spigot and sand the bottom clean. I think you'll save it just fine!!

.......................Jim


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Thanks Jim, sounds like sound advice.


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