# Shaker style cabinet doors in TEAK_Glue-up_Epoxy?



## Blackfin29 (Dec 8, 2017)

I believe I'd consider this a "Joinery" question.

I'm finishing up production of 4 solid teak, shaker style cabinet doors. They came out wonderful I think.

Someone I trust told me to avoid using regular wood glue for the glue-up due to the oils in teak, and instead use a 2 part epoxy like West System.

Anyone done such? Anyone think this is a bad idea??

I'm just nervous because I don't use West a lot and just want to bounce it off the forum.

Thank you!!!


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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

I've use regular pva glue on teak. Real teak from Burma. I think I might have wiped it down with acetone on the glue areas.
I have also seen some teak that was so dark and oily that i could see the need for epoxy.

So how sure are you that you have real teak.


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## Blackfin29 (Dec 8, 2017)

Oh it's real Teak, in fact I buy it from the most reputable supplier in the Northeast… He supplies all the Maine boatbuilders, and you know they wouldn't go for that.

This teak I have is so oily it almost resembles a Wax when freshly milled. Very nice stuff and bought from a guy I have complete faith in. Tiverton, Rhode Island actually.


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## Blackfin29 (Dec 8, 2017)

I'll have to post some photos… let me see if I can figure that out


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## Blackfin29 (Dec 8, 2017)




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## Unknowncraftsman (Jun 23, 2013)

That's the stuff. I really don't know if you need to use epoxy. If you do be careful not squeeze out too much near the faces I have found it can leave a dark line.
Have you thought about a test glue up with pva.

Teak also has a wonderful aroma. Your shop must smell great 
Good luck


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## Sawdust35 (Jan 15, 2016)

Blackfin29-
I am building an outdoor table from Burmese Teak. I have been successfully gluing several edge and end grain joints (reinforced with dominos) by doing the following:
1-sand each joint with 100 grit sand paper; 2-wipe down with acetone; 3-apply System Three T-88 two part epoxy to wood and clamp for 3 days. T-88 has an open time of 45 mins and a cure time of 3 days. The teak cost me $28/bf so I am being not willing to experiment with other glues. The joints are strong and the epoxy scraps off easily with a card scraper. 
Here's a pic of the glue up:


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

I built these doors recently and have done a lot of work with Teak in the past. I prefer epoxy particularly because of marine conditions but all epoxies are not equal. Some will work better with oily woods than others. I used Cold Cure from System Three mostly because I know it and trust it but there certainly are others. Ask your epoxy supplier which of his products is appropriate.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

I've seen a lot of old furniture, G&G stuff etc in teak done with hide glue. I'm sure wiping it with acetone and pva will outlive any of us.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> I've seen a lot of old furniture, G&G stuff etc in teak done with hide glue. I'm sure wiping it with acetone and pva will outlive any of us.
> 
> - SMP


I think it's born on date was way before most of us as well. I have heard of Teak since I was a boy, and have only heard of epoxy for use in woodworking in the last 20 years. Possibly not being involved in boat building? It's certainly the new kid on the block as far as wide spread use.

I saw a progression from hide glue, to good old Elmers. Can't say I have seen a lot of failed glue joints. At least when properly prepped stock was used. Panel gluing isn't rocket science.

Of all the high profile woodworkers I have heard talk and watched work Frank Klausz surprised me the most. Here's a guy who could probably sign a money deal with Franklin to pimp their glues, and he uses Elmers. "It hasn't failed me yet" I think you can be assured his surfaces are glue ready, before he starts though.


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## Blackfin29 (Dec 8, 2017)

> I built these doors recently and have done a lot of work with Teak in the past. I prefer epoxy particularly because of marine conditions but all epoxies are not equal. Some will work better with oily woods than others. I used Cold Cure from System Three mostly because I know it and trust it but there certainly are others. Ask your epoxy supplier which of his products is appropriate.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Exactly the input I was hoping to get… someone who has actually DONE it!!!

Thank you…


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## Blackfin29 (Dec 8, 2017)

> Blackfin29-
> I am building an outdoor table from Burmese Teak. I have been successfully gluing several edge and end grain joints (reinforced with dominos) by doing the following:
> 1-sand each joint with 100 grit sand paper; 2-wipe down with acetone; 3-apply System Three T-88 two part epoxy to wood and clamp for 3 days. T-88 has an open time of 45 mins and a cure time of 3 days. The teak cost me $28/bf so I am being not willing to experiment with other glues. The joints are strong and the epoxy scraps off easily with a card scraper.
> Here's a pic of the glue up:
> ...


LOOOOKS GREATTTTTT!!!! Thank you, Sir…


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