# Kudos to Grizzly for an easy Saw to set up



## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

a good review

and an excellent modify

i am shocked 
at how much you 
aged

in just 4 hours !

even a haircut
and a rail road cap

can't hide
the truth


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## LeeJ (Jul 4, 2007)

That's great news, Rand.

4 hours to do what you did is really moving.

And that saw is sweet looking!

Congrats on a job well done.

Lee


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Thanks Dave and Lee. Ah shucks, twernt nuthin. blush…Seriously, the magnetic bars really make the difference. Cutting the bottom was maybe 30-45 min. Very simple job and we even had a built in guide. lol The killer would have been trying to start the bolts and hold the heavy iron wings and then align everything. With the mags, we just set it up, aligned them and tightened them up.
I'm sure there are magnetic bars out there in the tool shops. I've had mine for twenty years now. I got them off a Snap-on truck.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

good rewiew Thanks Rand 
4 hours  not bad at all

Dennis


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## JackBarnhill (Mar 8, 2009)

Congratulations! Sweet looking saw. Thanks for the review. It would be nice to have one of those some day.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Grizzly makes it very easy to get into one of these. Hey, maybe I ought to ask for a job based on this. lol


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## harvey4804 (Jan 21, 2011)

Awesome mod!!!

Hey patron, that ain't no rail road cap. That's a current issue USMC MARPAT (short for MARine PATtern) cover. It's a digital camouflage pattern in use with the United States Marine Corps, introduced with the Marine Corps Combat Utility Uniform (MCCUU), which replaced the Camouflage Utility Uniform. The pattern is formed by a number of small rectangular pixels of color. In theory, it is a far more effective camouflage than standard uniform patterns because it mimics the dappled textures and rough boundaries found in natural settings. This is caused by how the human eye interacts with pixelated images. It is also known as the "digital pattern" or "digi-cammies" because of its micropattern (pixels) rather than the old macropattern (big blobs).

I have a dozen of them


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Simper Fi, Harv…..


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## Ken90712 (Sep 2, 2009)

Nice saw and review!!!!


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

Sounds good Rand. Great review. Maybe we are on eve of a quality jump for Chinese tools, if that's where this one comes from. If so, it shows that things are improving across the board.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Mike, I don't know if this saw was manufactured on main land China or Taiwan, But Look at the Japanese right after WWII. Now look at Japan today. I know a couple of CEO's that have been setting up plants in Taiwan and importing from there for the last 20 years. They have their own man living there from America just to have control over the quality of the products coming out of there. Maybe the same thing is going on in China.

Pres. Bush Sr. was talking about One World Government. I guess they are starting off with one world economy first.
Look at NAFTA. Everyone was afraid all the manufacturing would go to Mexico to take advantage of the cheap labor and it did, and it also gave Mexico duty free access to US highways to truck their products to Canada. Everything has gone down hill for the American worker ever since. 
Just a sogn of the times we live in, I guess.


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## Yupa4242 (Apr 12, 2011)

wow 4 hours .. I need your brain! Took nearly all day for me to crane hoist the steel cage from truck to shop let alone assemble it with no help… envy….. Grats on your Grizzly purchase!


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

Rand…

A wonderful review!

That saw is awesome!

*You did a GREAT job of chopping it down to size!*

*C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S *


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Hey

Rand

you did

it

let

me

guess

the base

is inflatable

and you let some

air out of it. LOL


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

OH HORRORS…. Jim, you're in a deep blue funk..Quick guys, pump some sunlight to Oregon. lol

The base may as well have been an inflatable one as easy as it was to cut down. I must admit that I was ecstatic that it wasn't cast iron. lol


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

I should have read the text first. I looked at the pics and thought how oddly short that saw seemed… After reading the text and realizing who was doing the review it all of the sudden made complete sense…


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## reggiek (Jun 12, 2009)

Great job….I love my G0691….and the workmanship was as you described…mine was almost perfect out of the box. Glad you got one that can be set up as needed….Looking forward to some great new cuts/projects.


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## Riowood1000 (Jul 29, 2009)

General dose make tools for people in wheel chairs" http://www.general.ca/site_access/access_en.html": http://www.general.ca/site_access/access_en.html


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Andrew, I checked their Access line for the wheelchair bound. But they were just to proud of their saw. $3,900 vs $1.300 for the Grizzly is a very strong selling point for me. The entire Access line is more expensive than the standard lines. For me, it is like gouging the ones least able to pay the tab. And I got the BS about how the difference is worth it because it is Canadian made. And yet they have a $1,000 Chinese saw they are marketing.
I get enough wind up my kilt here in the desert without them blowing theirs. Just the way I see things….


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## Jack_T (Feb 6, 2010)

A very nice review. What did you use to cut the cabinet down. Although I do not need to do this for my own purposes it might help others who do. Post another review when you get a chance to test out the saw.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Jack, I used a reciprocating saw with a bi-metal blade. All the tools were what the average wood worker should have in their shop. 
And I will do a review on the performance of the saw in a year or two. That should give me the time needed to really know the saw.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

That EB-3 looks nice sitting on that saw!


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

knotscott, I guess all great minds think alike. lol I knew I would love it the day I bought it from Norm, our woodworking god. lol If Norm says it is good, it is good! Now the saw operator, that's another story and a sad one too. lol


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## Alpiner (May 7, 2011)

I'm the one that commented about the finish of the wings, lilredweldingrod. You're fortunate if your wings are matching your table with its finish quality. Mine are pretty close to that now that I've made several passes with 1000 grit sandpaper. Even the second set of wings Grizzly sent to me, which I returned, were a lower quality grind.

Have you or anyone else reading this purchased the zero clearance blade insert? If so, I'd be interested to know if yours has the same discrepancies as mine. You have to drill a hole to access the riving knife quick release button. That should have been done already. Also, the underside partial cutout for the quick release block was cut on the wrong side. It was milled for the right side of the blade vs. the left side where the release mechanism is located. I had to rout out part of the underside of the insert to make it fit. You cannot fully raise the release mechanism because it will otherwise hit the underside of the insert.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Hey Alpiner, 
Yeah, I read your review. Man I am sorry that you have had this bad experience. My wings could not be a better match as far as I am concerned.I have found only 1 problem so far. My blade guard splitter touches the blade and troughs sparks at me. But I don't care for the guard and only use the riving knife any way. I guess I need to bring this to their attention. I would like for every thing to be right whether I use it or not.

As for the ZCI's, I never buy those. just to expensive for me. I prefer to make my own. I keep a sheet of 1/4" work hardened Masonite for these and to make jigs.

If you would like I can take a picture of my wings and top and post them for you.


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## Alpiner (May 7, 2011)

I'd greatly appreciate a picture so I can compare. Get a somewhat low angle that shows a bit of reflection. I've made ZCI's for my previous saw out of 3/8" Baltic birch plywood. I will probably get around to doing the same with this saw. I was aware of the part that needed to be routed out for the release mechanism. I was taking the easy way out not realizing that I had to do that even with their insert as well as drill the access hole. Live and learn.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Alpiner, here are 4 shots, the first two with flash, and the second two without.


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## Alpiner (May 7, 2011)

Maybe I shouldn't complain, see what you think, but I seem to have a higher level of milling on mine. The wings seem about the same. Mine was manufactured in Oct '10, and came out of the Springfield, MO warehouse.


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## Alpiner (May 7, 2011)

I meant to say the wings seem similar to yours.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Alpiner, 
I'll check the mfg date, and mine came out of Washington. But all in all, I'm quite happy with my saw. I'm thinking of relocating the on/off switch. I keep bumping the off button when I get to close to the saw on a long cut. lol But of course I have a much larger butt print. lol
You can spin a 360 in about 1 square foot, where it takes 16 sq. ft for this butt-bearing. lol
I guess as long as the old girl runs every time we hit the go button and she cuts straight and square, we are getting our monies worth. After all we did not pay for a Powermatic, Unisaw, or a Saw stop.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

i'm not sure what you guys are talking about

both those tops 
look good enough to fry breakfast on

with some hash browns in the back


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

dam now you make me hungry after egg and bacon made on the BBQ grill
what do you think the neighbours will say here in the mittttle of the night

Dennis


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## Alpiner (May 7, 2011)

You see an adjustable sawhorse that I made at the end of the saw. I have a second one that sets up against the left side of the saw, and projects a few inches past the front rail. I did this so I wouldn't keep bumping into the power switch. My switch, though, only projects about 3/4". The G0715P that I returned was at least double that. It was terrible. No butts about it (a little dry humor there). They should design the switch to totally fit under the face of the rail.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

I think that just maybe the switch location is so you can bump the off with your leg instead of having to reach for it with your hand.
Every piece of machinery has it's own peculiarities, we will get used to it. I just have to do something about the blade grinding on the splitter of the blade guard. The blade catches the first inch of the splitter on the top under side.
Does this happen with yours?
I'm concerned about sparks in the sawdust inside the cabinet.

And Dave, I agree, I'm ready for breakfast anytime. How you like your eggs? lol Dennis likes his right out of the nest fresh…and raw. lol You know how those skjoldmo's with blue party hats are. lol


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## Alpiner (May 7, 2011)

If you haven't, I'd talk to Grizzly about your splitter problem. Per your description I'm assuming it's only on the blade guard, and not on the separate splitter that you use without the guard. Have you compared the ends of the two splitters regarding hole locations? You do have a safety issue on your hands.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

When I lay the riving knife on the splitter and line up the two tangs where they insert into the lock, everything looks the same. When I instal just the riving knife, there is no problem that appears. but the minute I swap the riving knife out and install the blade guard, the front of the guard dips down in front when you start the blade and the sparks fly.
I imagine that if I grind the splitter, eventually I would alleviate the problem, but I can't tell how far to go with the grinding. I'll talk to Grizz on Monday and see what they say. If I start grinding on things I may void the warranty and I don't care to do that.


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## Alpiner (May 7, 2011)

Your description brings up another possibility. Do you have the same issue when you lift the blade guard out of the way exposing the splitter? There's a through bolt on the underside of the blade guard that acts as a stop. It fits in a notch on top of the splitter with two spring clips that holds the blade guard onto the splitter. Could there be a problem there? I'm sure Grizzly would be willing to send another complete blade guard assembly to you if the problem cannot be resolved. On a similar issue with a jointer, I told them to send another part to me, and I'd return the defective one for inspection. They willingly did that. They will give a return authorization to you, and UPS will pick up the package at your doorstep.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Alpiner, I'll look at this a bit closer today. But as I see it now, the problem seems to be the splitter getting off kilter in the mounting holes. there is a lot of movement up and down on the tip of the splitter. I install the guard and raise the plastic guards and have 1/8 " of clearance on top of the blade. When I start the saw, the vibration causes the splitter to settle down on the blade very quickly.
But the riving knife never moves and is very solid even with me wiggling it up and down, back and forth. So at the moment I just don't know.


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## Alpiner (May 7, 2011)

Keep us advised on how it goes when you call Grizzly, lilredweldingrod. Unless there's a good fix for yours, I'd push for a new blade guard assembly. I think they will comply.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

I talked to Grizzly this morning. A very nice and helpful young man named Craig. My problem had to go up over his head as no one in his area could come to a good solution.










You can see how the gap at the rear bottom of the blade begins to diminish as you follow the arc to the top. This is with their blade that came with the saw. 
I think the problem is in the casting where the tangs fit and the locking pin are. A little grinding in the front may allow the splitter to raise up.










This is with both blades on the arbor snugged up to be sure both blades are the same diameter.










And you can see the arc on the riving knife is diminishing as well. So now I wait for Grizzly to arrive at a solution. I am not stopped from woodworking as I can go ahead with just the riving knife. I do love every thing else about this machine.


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## Alpiner (May 7, 2011)

I've talked to Craig and some of the other fellows. They're all very pleasant, and try to be helpful. From your pictures it looks like the splitter tilts forward as you raise the blade. That's an assumption since you have the blade in the upmost position in your picture. You previously mentioned that you compared the splitter on the blade guard assembly and the riving knife. Did you do it just by sight or also with a measuring instrument? If you have a dial or digital caliper you might measure and compare the width and height of the slots of each. Both of mine are identical. The slot is 1 15/16" deep. The width at the widest place is 15/32", and 25/64" where it necks down at one place.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Nothing changes as the arbor position and the anchor for the knives remain constant. Raising or lowering the blade changes nothing. The tangs on both splitter and riving knife are exactly the same. The only thing I see that can be the problem is a faulty casting with too much meat where the front tang has to ride in order to set the locking pin. I am willing to invest in a new riving knife and splitter to grind on them to see if I can rectify the problem. It is possible to grind a small amount off the front tang to allow the front of the splitter to raise up off the blade.
Until the grim reaper shows up, I have nothing but time on my hands. lol I reckon I have a few more years to play with this thing. lol
For my measurements I have dial indicators and micrometers to do the comparisons. And even by eye it is apparent there is little of no difference in the two pieces. Everything I see comes down to the front tang being forced to the rear and pulling the rest down onto the blade. 
It looked like a grinder when the sparks began to fly. lol


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Bat Channel UPDATE! ticka ticka ticka

This evening after this cold wind laid, ?I when back out there and removed a layer of sawdust on the right back side of the trunnion. There what I thought was a casting, turned out to be mostly sawdust and a flat spring to hold pressure on the riving knife and splitter when installed. thee allen head cap screws hold everything in place. I set the proper spacing for the end of the splitter and tightened everything up, removed the 1/4" spacer and all is good in my world again. Evidently these vibrated loose from the shipping and caused the problem.
I sent an update to tech support and tomorrow I hope to be back cutting rails and stiles and raised panels. Did I mention that life is GOOD?


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

great news there Rand 
good to hear you solved it by your self and even better send a note to Grizz suport.
nothing is like when an old dog show a trick or two to the puppies …. LOL

Dennis


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Who you calling old? Dad burn young whipper-snappers.lol Actually I'm a little embarrassed that I didn't clean things up better to see the problem sooner. But I haven't been able to stand the cold winds we have been having. They put me in high gear to get inside. Oh well. all's well that ends well.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

who called you old as I remember you ain´t over 90 yet


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Dennis, I'll just say that I'm old enough to be your poppa. lol


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## woodmaker (Jan 12, 2011)

After reading every post aboout this saw I ordered my G0690 this morning. 
I have a Grizzly G0548Z 2HP dust collector and it works great, so this will be my 2nd Grizzly product but will not the last. 
I still need a 8" Jointer, 15" Planer, 17" band saw, and. . . . .

I am one happy camper.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Congrats on the new saw. I'm sure you will be as happy a I am. And I like the plan for the other tools.


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## woodmaker (Jan 12, 2011)

I have it in the garage.
Put the Shop Fox mobile base together last night.
I will assemble the saw this week-end.
Going to need help fron at least two neighbors to get it off the pallet and onto the mobile base.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

You're going to love that saw. Do you have access to an engine hoist? There are two bolts holding the saw to the pallet, so don't try to lift the pallet too. On my Shop Fox base, I threw the tubing away and ripped some 1 inch mahogany 1 7/8" and used that to get a tighter fit at the base of the cabinet.The 1×1 7/8 does not allow the base to sag in the middle and just a pan head screw in one hole keeps everything together.

Another nice thing with the SF base is if you put the swivel casters on the backside of the cabinet, then you have an adjustment to raise the saw table a bit to use a bench for your out feed table and can allow the miter gauge to pass over the top of the bench with out routing miter grooves in the table.


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## woodmaker (Jan 12, 2011)

The saw is assembled!
Went together very easily. 
I had two neighbors help me lift it off the pallet and onto the mobile base. Whew, what a job!
One neighbor left immediately after and the other stayed and helped me with the wings and the rails. That main rail is a heavy bugger by itself.
Now I need 220 run to the garage. As a professional procrastinator my wife and I have put off running the 220 to the garage; so I figured the best way to get it done is to just buy the saw and I will be forced to get it installed.


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## lilredweldingrod (Nov 23, 2009)

Way to go, Mike. You are going to love this saw!


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