# Furniture Making Tutorials



## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

*Solid Bookmatched Panels - A how to. *

Moved to my website: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/02/solid-bookmatched-furniture-panels.html


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## eao2012 (Jan 14, 2013)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Solid Bookmatched Panels - A how to. *
> 
> Moved to my website: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/02/solid-bookmatched-furniture-panels.html


Great tutorial. Never seen that technique about ripping a kerf before resawing on the BS but that makes a ton of sense. I'll have to try it out.

I'm about to read the other furniture making blogs you just posted. I look forward to more of them since furniture making is my main interest.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Solid Bookmatched Panels - A how to. *
> 
> Moved to my website: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/02/solid-bookmatched-furniture-panels.html


Sure Eric. They're really just the tutorials I posted on the furniture making forum. Just making them easier to access.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Solid Bookmatched Panels - A how to. *
> 
> Moved to my website: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/02/solid-bookmatched-furniture-panels.html


Great information and well written tutorial. Thank you for taking the time to post your guide so it is easy to access. You are a huge asset to this site. Thanks BRK!


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

*Solid Wood Drawer slide process*

Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/02/solid-wood-drawer-slide-install-tutorial.html


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Solid Wood Drawer slide process*
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/02/solid-wood-drawer-slide-install-tutorial.html


Red, great tutorial. These are fairly large drawers. At what size (smaller) do the slides become unnecessary? Or is that a personal preference? Thanks for sharing.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Solid Wood Drawer slide process*
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/02/solid-wood-drawer-slide-install-tutorial.html


Thank ya BRK.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Solid Wood Drawer slide process*
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/02/solid-wood-drawer-slide-install-tutorial.html


Candy, I don't know if there's a size requirement. I just know that when the drawer side is too small, like on a machinist tool chest, slides just don't make sense.


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## b2rtch (Jan 20, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Solid Wood Drawer slide process*
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/02/solid-wood-drawer-slide-install-tutorial.html


I just wonder how they wear,especially with heavy loads in the drawers.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Solid Wood Drawer slide process*
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/02/solid-wood-drawer-slide-install-tutorial.html


Bert- As long as you use hardwoods, they should last the life of the furniture. I know they're stronger than a sliding dovetail under the drawer.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Solid Wood Drawer slide process*
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/02/solid-wood-drawer-slide-install-tutorial.html


To make wooden drawer slides run smoother I have used the white soapstone welder's chalk to libricate the slide. It seems, to me, less sticky and less of a dust collector than the paraffin. It also is very tidy to appply. Has anyone else used this chalk like this?


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## TechRedneck (Jul 30, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Solid Wood Drawer slide process*
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/02/solid-wood-drawer-slide-install-tutorial.html


Hey Red, thanks for the tips. I have a bunch of drawers to do for a large project and just hate the metal slides for good furniture.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

*Mortise and Tenons- Mortising machine and Dado blade Method. *

Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/03/mortise-and-tenon-joints-mortising.html


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## widdle (Mar 10, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Mortise and Tenons- Mortising machine and Dado blade Method. *
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/03/mortise-and-tenon-joints-mortising.html


good stuff red..


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Mortise and Tenons- Mortising machine and Dado blade Method. *
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/03/mortise-and-tenon-joints-mortising.html


Hmmmmm, machines! Hadn't thought of that. Maybe next time. :0)
Great blog Red.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Mortise and Tenons- Mortising machine and Dado blade Method. *
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/03/mortise-and-tenon-joints-mortising.html


Now I want a mortiser! Chopping mortices is one area where I don't like working by hand, especially with M&T where you usually have so many to do.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Mortise and Tenons- Mortising machine and Dado blade Method. *
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/03/mortise-and-tenon-joints-mortising.html


Thanks Red!


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Mortise and Tenons- Mortising machine and Dado blade Method. *
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/03/mortise-and-tenon-joints-mortising.html


Maur- they sure cut back on the drudgery. Watch craigslist. I see the delta benchtop models on there often.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Mortise and Tenons- Mortising machine and Dado blade Method. *
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/03/mortise-and-tenon-joints-mortising.html


I just scored a free earlex hvlp with some reward points and I was thinking of trying to trade it for a mortiser, so hard to give up a nice new tool once you have it though.

Couple of questions:
Do you need to knife your shoulder lines first or does the dado stack cut clean enough?
Also for those of us with no dado stack, would cutting the cheeks on the bandsaw work? Have you tried it?


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Mortise and Tenons- Mortising machine and Dado blade Method. *
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/03/mortise-and-tenon-joints-mortising.html


Maur- Free earlex…..ohhh nice. Tough decision. If you find someone to trade you for a powermatic mortiser….I'll be green.

I don't knife the shoulders. Wouldn't hurt. I leave just a little bit left when I get close to the shoulder, then take a slow pass. Works pretty well.

Haven't tried it with bandsaw. I imagine it wouldn't be as consistent. Btw, I just have the HF $35 dado set. No complaints.


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## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Mortise and Tenons- Mortising machine and Dado blade Method. *
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/03/mortise-and-tenon-joints-mortising.html


Maur, I use a band saw to cut cheeks. Just leave a little "meat" to plane off for a smooth finish. Also my BS has a resaw blade so the cut does not wander.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Mortise and Tenons- Mortising machine and Dado blade Method. *
> 
> Moved to my site here: http://www.westfallwoodcraft.com/2015/03/mortise-and-tenon-joints-mortising.html


+1 on the resaw bandsaw blade. That's the only blade I use.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

*Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *

To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.

Now some woodworkers might be able to get a two foot long spline to fit perfectly and look great on the exposed ends….but they're better than me. So I cheat. Here's how I do it. 








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-

I cut the 45 degee bevels on the tablesaw. Leaving the blade at 45, I set it up to make the groove for the spline. It took two passes to get the width I wanted. 
You can use a scrap or test piece for these setups. Don't use a short one. That's dangerous. I just made the pieces extra long and test the cut on the first inch or so. 








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-

Next smooth up the saw marks on your beveled edge. 








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Now make some splines. I use…...wait for it…...1/4" plywood! If you think about it, a spline running long grain with the joint is wrong because the grain is weaker that way. So you could make a bunch of smaller cross grain splines like this:








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Or you could just use a scrap of 1/4" plywood. The grain alternates. And it's already uniform thickness. Notice the spline is a couple inches short of the end. We don't want to see the ugly ply in the end. 








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Spline a little snug? You can plane the first layer of ply. I know, Rojo loco. 








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If you've got a snug spline, glue up should be pretty easy. It helps keep things aligned. 









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Cut the legs to the correct length. Don't cut to where you hit the spline!








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Now you should have something that looks like this. Even if it doesn't line up perfect or whatever….no worries. Chisel it to a nice rectangle. One of the few times I use an 1/8" chisel. 








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When you have it good enough, cut ya a little hardwood spline. I know it's not correct, but I think the end grain looks cool. I rip thin pieces like this on the bandsaw. It's safer. 
As with any square peg, dowel….whatever you want to drive in wood. Make it slightly over-sized. Use a block plane or sanding block to taper it. Add some glue The tip should barely go in, then it will expand as you drive it home(Stef). Just don't get too carried away and split the darn thing.









-
-
Flush cut saw. ROS. Little oil. It should look like this. 









Edit: Well that spline blends so well maybe I should have made it cross grain or an accent wood if I wanted to highlight it. Oh well. Maybe next time.


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the cheat, Red. It looks great to me, and much easier to glue up…

I'll have to try that!


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## dczward (May 23, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


And if I saw that at some furniture show or whatever, I might use my meager woodworking experience to show off to a friend and say, "nice piece, but you see that spline in there? The bozo did it wrong! The grain is running the wrong direction, and there's no strength to it. Ha!". And I'd be dead wrong. Nice one.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Nice! Thank you BRK.


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## BTimmons (Aug 6, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Pretty slick.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Ya Douglas, you can still make the spline you see cross grain with this method. I've done it. But I didn't like how it looked. 
Tough call. An accent wood may be in order….but not on this project.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Besides the cleverness, that is a damn nice miter joint Red.


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## Hammerthumb (Dec 28, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Cool Red. Nice blog.


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the post. I think I need to remember this ;-)


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## ScomelBasses (Dec 6, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Very nice!


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## ShaneA (Apr 15, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Hmm…interesting take on this joint. I like the aesthetics of the end grain plug. Thanks


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## renners (Apr 9, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Nice work Red, very neat.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Pretty slick there!!!

If an employed technique has a twist, a different approach, or is just plain unique….
And it works….
Is it really cheating???


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## widdle (Mar 10, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


that whole corners lookin tight..good work..


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## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


AWE-some Red!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Nice blog Red.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


That make s a great looking joint that should be super stout. Your technique looks simple enough that even I can do it! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.


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## CL810 (Mar 21, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


You very smart man!


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## TechRedneck (Jul 30, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Hey Red, good ideas here. Thanks for sharing the info.


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## jerrells (Jul 3, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


I have gott'a try this - someday when I get some time and it is warmer


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Glad ya'll found it helpful. Just tryin' to give back a little.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Nice, that spline looks like it grew there.


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## poospleasures (Aug 7, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


I like the ply wood spline. I make many miters in boxes and do spline them the "right way" which is a time consuming PITA. Thanks to your idea and blog my job just became easier and my joints probably stronger.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Thats a pretty cool tip Red, but why would you need to spline a long grain to long grain joint? It would be plenty strong without it? Thanks for sharring though, I'm sure I could use that tip somewhere.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Hmmm. You don't think that miter is stronger with the spline?


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Oh it is, no doubt, and I'm sure there are situations where its needed, I just cant think of one where the extra step is needed. But that's probably just due to my limited brain capacity today.


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## Joshh (Sep 16, 2016)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Long Grain Miter with a Spline.....your cheatin 'heart. *
> 
> To be honest, I'm not a big fan of miter joints. They just aren't that strong and they can be fussy. However they're good design option….like on the corners of a blanket chest. To strengthen them, I like using a spline. A spline looks kinda cool and will help alignment during glueup.
> 
> ...


Does anyone know how a spline enforced joint compares with the one made with miter lock router bits in terms of accuracy and strength ?


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

*Installing False Drawer Fronts*

False drawer fronts are very common in furniture, but getting the fronts installed precisely can be frustrating. Here's a little trick or technique for this task. 








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Here's the big ol' drawer front I'm installing on my joinery bench. The front has already been edge planed and sized to fit. I like to use a steel rule as a spacer, it aids me in obtaining a uniform reveal around the perimeter of the drawer front. 








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The first step is pre-drilling your screws through the front of the drawer. You need to size a bit that allows the screws friction fit. Then drive the screws so they protrude about an 1/8". 








Next, push the drawer in and lightly arrange the false front where you need it. Notice I have the steel rule spacing below. Then take a rubber mallet and tap firmly on the false front. The protruding screw heads will leave dimples on the back of the false front. 








Locate the dimples and pre-drill them just a bit so the screws will bite. 








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Last hold up the false front, slowly drive the screw a little more and make sure it aligns with the hole. Clamp it if need be. Drive the screws home.

Hope it helps, Red.


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## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Installing False Drawer Fronts*
> 
> False drawer fronts are very common in furniture, but getting the fronts installed precisely can be frustrating. Here's a little trick or technique for this task.
> 
> ...


Nice tutorial, Red. Great timing too for an upcoming project.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Installing False Drawer Fronts*
> 
> False drawer fronts are very common in furniture, but getting the fronts installed precisely can be frustrating. Here's a little trick or technique for this task.
> 
> ...


Awesome. Thank you bud!


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## Hammerthumb (Dec 28, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Installing False Drawer Fronts*
> 
> False drawer fronts are very common in furniture, but getting the fronts installed precisely can be frustrating. Here's a little trick or technique for this task.
> 
> ...


Good job Red. Those cabinets came out sweet. Are you going to epoxy fill the voids in the faces, or just leave them as is?


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Installing False Drawer Fronts*
> 
> False drawer fronts are very common in furniture, but getting the fronts installed precisely can be frustrating. Here's a little trick or technique for this task.
> 
> ...


Nice tips.


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## Slyy (Nov 13, 2013)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Installing False Drawer Fronts*
> 
> False drawer fronts are very common in furniture, but getting the fronts installed precisely can be frustrating. Here's a little trick or technique for this task.
> 
> ...


Excellent Tip Rojo! Thanks for sharing.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Installing False Drawer Fronts*
> 
> False drawer fronts are very common in furniture, but getting the fronts installed precisely can be frustrating. Here's a little trick or technique for this task.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys. Thought it might save somebody a headache.

Paul- I epoxied the big cracks/checks for stability, the rest I'm leaving as is. I like the look.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Installing False Drawer Fronts*
> 
> False drawer fronts are very common in furniture, but getting the fronts installed precisely can be frustrating. Here's a little trick or technique for this task.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the knowledge Rojo.


----------



## CFrye (May 13, 2013)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Installing False Drawer Fronts*
> 
> False drawer fronts are very common in furniture, but getting the fronts installed precisely can be frustrating. Here's a little trick or technique for this task.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tutorial Red!


----------



## Brit (Aug 14, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Installing False Drawer Fronts*
> 
> False drawer fronts are very common in furniture, but getting the fronts installed precisely can be frustrating. Here's a little trick or technique for this task.
> 
> ...


Good tip Red. Thanks for sharing your expertise.


----------



## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Installing False Drawer Fronts*
> 
> False drawer fronts are very common in furniture, but getting the fronts installed precisely can be frustrating. Here's a little trick or technique for this task.
> 
> ...


Lovely tutorial. Enjoyed reading and getting wiser. 
Thanks for sharing


----------



## Tugboater78 (May 26, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Installing False Drawer Fronts*
> 
> False drawer fronts are very common in furniture, but getting the fronts installed precisely can be frustrating. Here's a little trick or technique for this task.
> 
> ...


Used this method for my bench, cept I used quarters instead of the ruler, had forgotten where I had read the method till just now.


----------



## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

*A Case for Rabbets*

There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.

I should also note that routers and their partnering jigs are very effective for dados, I just like using a dado stack in the tablesaw when I can. Mostly because of familiarity and speed.

So, when I make dados in plywood casework, I always rabbet the mating piece. like this:








-
Several reasons why:

*1) Frustration*. Have you ever wasted a bunch of time with the your tablesaw dado stack attempting to get the exact width of sheet goods? Just when you find the proper combination of cutters, shims, etc, you'll switch types or even brands of plywood and it'll be different. Maddening, and a waste of time.

*2) Speed.* Just slap together a few cutters in your dado stack to equal approximately half the thickness of the ply your using. Usually 3/4" ply, so about a 3/8". You'll make a custom rabbet anyway. Mark and cut the dados.









I also recommend knifing the line. This will help with chipout on the fragile veneer.










*3) The Cover up.* Now, even with knifing, I got a little chipout on the "open" side of my dado blade (hope you can see it on the right side). That's where the beauty of the rabbet comes in. It will hide the chipout. Here's the made joint:









*4) Fit. *To make the rabbet, I use an auxiliary fence on my tablesaw, like this:








I can raise the blade slowly on test cuts until I get the right thickness on the rabbet. Of course I can always finesse the joint with a block plane.

*5) Strength.* I'm sure some would argue that I weakened the joint by thinning the "tenon" of the joint with a rabbet. Maybe if your going to jump up and down on it. I would argue that I added more glue surface and possibly increased the lateral (side to side) strength of the joint.

Anyhow, that's how I does it up in my shizzopp. I can toss together a case like this in short order with this process. 
Hope it makes sense. Shoot me any questions you might have, Red


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Always appreciate you taking the time to share your experience and knowledge. Thanks bud.


----------



## Hammerthumb (Dec 28, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Coming along nice Red. I use that same method, but I will make the dado only slightly undersized from the plywood. Although I'm sure your right about the strength. I also do this with an undersized router bit and a straightedge across both left and right panels, as I can do both sides at the same time and they will always register exact.


----------



## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


^Cool Paul. I suppose a guy doesn't have to make the rabbet tenon as small as I did. That's the thing about posting this stuff. Often I learn something too.


----------



## August (Apr 27, 2014)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


thanks for sharing this Red 
this is something i wish you had posted about 6 day ago LOL
im making some kind of closet cabinet thing for the bedroom


----------



## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Do you go shoulder up or down? Any logic behind your choice?


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Shoulder down, it's stronger that way.

Red great blog posting. I do them with a hand saw, chisel, and a shoulder or rabbet plane since I tend not to use plywood.


----------



## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...





> Shoulder down, it s stronger that way.
> 
> - theoldfart


Interesting, Kev, I would think the opposite. Can you explain?


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...





> Shoulder down, it s stronger that way.
> 
> - theoldfart
> 
> ...


Maybe?


----------



## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I'm saying that in my mind the stronger way to make the joint would be with the shoulder up, not down. I'm asking if there is science/experience that shows one way to be better than the other.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


No dado stack, or router in my shop…but PLEASE keep on with the discussion! Rabbets are still my most used joint till I take my DT training wheels off…


----------



## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


I understood your question. I was trying to illustrate that the downward force may be better resisted with the shoulder being down. My apologies, I am neither artist nor scientist; rather barely above a chimp on that scale.


----------



## jmartel (Jul 6, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


With plywood you should go shoulder up. If you go shoulder down, then you risk the ply edges splitting from sagging. Shoulder up and the force holds everything together. Hardwood, shoulder down.

Whether that's really a concern basically depends on the quality of your material.

Looking good, Red.


----------



## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Jmart, that was my thinking for ply, but why does it change for hardwood?


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Good topic. I have always found tenon geometry interesting. Most people can visualize that a larger tenon is a stronger tenon, but the shoulder is important too. Whether it is a rabbeted panel or traditional tenon, that shoulder will resist racking and make your projects strong.


----------



## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...





> Maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Tony, I see what your are saying now, sorry, sometime it takes awhile. As you push down in the center of the shelf the shoulder would put more pressure on the side. That makes sense to me. But my bigger fear would be the unsupported ply splitting at the cut line.


----------



## Detoro (Jan 17, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


With the shoulder down you will get a better fit and less chance of a slightly poor cut showing up. especially if there is a sag in the shelf.


----------



## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


re: shoulder up or down.

In theory: For strength I tend to agree with Jmart, should up. I'm confident if one were to execute the "jump up and down on it" test, the should down method would delaminate and split the plywood.

In practice: I reserve the right to go either way that might hide the worst chipout in the plywood veneer;-)
I've installed them both ways- a switch hitter of sorts. lawl.


----------



## Tugboater78 (May 26, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Perfect timing for this as the dado stack I got for my bday back in July got tested today instead of looking pretty in the box.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Iv'e been doing them shoulder down for the reason Tony illustrated as well as for aesthetic reasons (hide gaps!)


----------



## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


I've read that the shoulder should be up, but I believe that was for plywood. And with plywood, you need to put a strip of hardwood banding on, so that would add strength.


----------



## NoThanks (Mar 19, 2014)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


I don't get the reasoning. Shoulder up or shoulder down? Is either way stronger than just doing a dado for the full thickness of the shelf?


----------



## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


^Iwud4u- Your diagram is what I would argue as the weaker joint. However, I really feel that either way is strong enough for most purposes. 
I might do it differently on a shelf that is going to hold A LOT of weight. But most times, this is a drawer divider, case bottom, etc. And in the instance of my build picture above, these will be further supported by the face frame.

Kev- I'm looking forward to the means and the confidence to do more solid wood casework. With piece like this, I'm working in the confines of young family budget (BIL and SIL) so, I go back to ply. I still like to think this will be built better than 90% of the stuff they would get at todays furniture stores.


----------



## ToddJB (Jul 26, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...





> I still like to think this will be built better than 90% of the stuff they would get at todays furniture stores.
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


I think that's a safe bet


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Red, most of the rabbits I've done are supported on three and sometimes four sides so have not had a problem with breakage or failure.


----------



## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Red,

Every time I read the title of this blog post I think "No, Red! It's a CAGE for RABBITS, not a case…"

Good article and excellent followup discussion.

Herb


----------



## john2005 (Jun 8, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Good info all around. I can never get my stinking dado blades the right thickness…in a reasonable amount of time.


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Red - the way you have it is the better way to go, especially due to the flexing toward the middle. The shoulders down, as the weight is applied in the middle, will work for you.

If you experience bowing of the shelf, a piece of 1/4" thick by 1' wide solid wood strip across the bottom will stop that if the shelf is straight when glued on.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


^ ha


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


I can easily see the case for using hardwoods for casework and shelving now…except for cost.

What's the 'softest' hardwood you guys would rabbet in this manner? I'm sure dimensions come into play, but is poplar strong enough for a 36" wide shelf? All our 'furniture' is MDF crap from the big store. Shelves held in place with plastic pegs. The horror!

I'm certain I can build better than what we have, but would sure like it to last my lifetime…so wood choice seems important?

Sorry for all the stupid questions, but I'm an Arts and Crafts woodworker who wants to become a furniture maker!


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


36" is a long one if its supported only on the ends and you are going to weight it very much ( couple of knick knacks vs a Gutenberg Bible). Some hardwood front and back edges may help.


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Thanks, TOF, another question…

How do you guys attach face frames.


----------



## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...





> How do you guys attach face frames.
> 
> - terryR


HA! That's what my next blog is going to be about Terry;-)

Here's some info on shelf spans:









-
And don't forget there are several ways to beef up a shelf, plywood or not:


----------



## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...





> I can easily see the case for using hardwoods for casework and shelving now…except for cost.
> 
> - terryR


Actually cost isn't the biggest factor for me….it's labor. Premium plywood isn't cheap either…..and it takes me 3 times as long to make a solid case. This is why the first solid wood, no ply bedroom set I make…. will be mine;-)


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Red
I don't think the tenon up or tenon down for use on most plywood joinery is an issue unless your storing engine blocks on the shelf or you have long spans. As to this rabbit joint being used on hardwood,this can be a problem because of wood movement and a cross grain situation, a sliding dovetail would be more appropriate just applying glue to one end of the dovetail.
As far as the question about how to attach face frames is concerned, your photos show shelf banding not face frames .


----------



## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


learning by the hour, am I. hmmm…woodsmith etips…

Yep, I thought it was just ME that took forever to glue up and flatten panels…guess I better get used to nice ply.

looking forward to the next blog!


----------



## NoThanks (Mar 19, 2014)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Maybe it's just me, but I still don't understand why not just a full dado for the shelf thickness?
I do see a little more glue surface with the rabbet, provided the cuts are all perfect. 
I also see more set up time to get it all to fit good, along with extra work. Besides the dado, you still have to cut the rabbet on the shelf as well.
Please tell me why you would use the rabbet method opposed to the full dado. 
Not trying to be argumentative, just wanting to learn.


----------



## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


^ No worries, but I'd kinda just refer back to my points 1,2, and 3 in the blog as to why I prefer this to full dados.

Terry- if a guy made solid panels all the time, a wide drum sander would be tempting.


----------



## NoThanks (Mar 19, 2014)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


OK thanks,
I guess I don't share the same frustrations. Whatever works! 
I actually use a panel router (her-saf) for dado's these days. 
And yes sizing bits to plywood thickness can be a pain, but I have many different size bits so I just mic the plywood and use the appropriate bit.

Seems like just as much work to do the second step of sizing the shelf rabbet to fit the dado as it would be to size the dado to the shelf. But, again, Whatever works, ......... works. 

Thanks for the response.


----------



## 489tad (Feb 26, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Shoulder up or down, its giving me flash backs of my statics class. Bad flash backs.


----------



## theoldfart (Sep 9, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


flunked statistics


----------



## lateralus819 (Mar 24, 2013)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


I do mine the same way. I like a rabbet instead of a tongue as i only have to remove waste from one side.


----------



## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Good info Red, I think I've done this method, it works pretty well and its easy to use a shoulder plane to fine tune the thickness of the "Tongue".


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## August (Apr 27, 2014)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Red after looking at your advice I use some of them???


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *A Case for Rabbets*
> 
> There's always more than one way to go about any joint. I thought I'd share my preferred method for fixed shelves and drawer dividers in casework. I'm sure you can rollover some of these ideas into solid wood casework, but I'm speaking primarily to the times we might be using cabinet grade plywoods.
> 
> ...


Cool. Your not messin around. Gettin down to some woodworking.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

*Attaching Face Frames*

I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.

Disclaimer- I realize pictures are helpful, and I don't have picture for every method…...so many are borrowed from the interwebz. I'll be sure to pass on some of my royalties to the sources;-)

A note before I start, don't forget the glue! Every one of these methods are vastly strengthened with wood glue. The front edge of any case provides a fair amount of glue surface, use it.

*1. Pocket Screws* Reasonably strong. This quick method is mostly used on kitchen cabinets because one has to find ways to hide the pocket holes. 









*2. Biscuits* Also reasonably strong when combined with gluing the front edge of the case. Unlike pocket screws, they are completely hidden when joined. 








-
The thing about biscuits, edge joining is a snap. However, butt jointed can takes some more figuring if the face frames have an offset or overhang, like this:








I always seem to run into alignment issues. They work, but they're not my favorite for this task.

*3. Dowels* Actually, I like using dowels for face frame quite a bit. I don't have a dowel jig. I just freehand drill the holes I want on the front edge of the case. Then I place dowel centers in each of those hole, place the face frame on the case, tap it with a mallet….and I have all the marks to drill mating holes on the face frame. Pretty slick.










*4. Splines* Now we're getting into the methods one would see in nicer furniture. Strong and straight forward. 









*5. Rabbets, Dados and Grooves* Now this is my preferred method on a quality piece of furniture. No doubt the strongest mechanically. They take some planning ahead while making the case. Often the sides of the case need to be a little wider to form the joint. 
Matching rabbets can be milled on the case and face frame, creating a flush side like this:








-
Or the rabbet can be inset with a groove, sorta like this:








-
Notice with the above diagram, most folks only make these joints on the two outer edges of the case. I suppose a guy could mill rabbet on every piece of the case, but that would be overkill. If I'm worried about the case bottom or shelf being supported, I will combine the rabbet method with a couple biscuits(or whatever) like this:








-

Another thing about the rabbet method I like- building the face frame with the case as a pattern! See what I'm doing here:








The two outer stiles of the face frame are resting on the case, then I can fit the rails precisely. Makes for nicely fitted face frame.

Whatever you choose, glue it, clamp it, and start or your doors and drawers;-)









Hope it helps. Now go make some furniture, Red


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## Hammerthumb (Dec 28, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the blog Red.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


I like your logic. They all can me good methods I suppose. I tend to use pocket screws to build the face frame, and biscuits to attach the face frame to the cabinet. Fixed shelves get dados, and back panels get rabbets. Ask six people and you will get as many answers. 
Lately I have been building Stickley style pieces, where the stock is thick enough you don't need any face frame at all. 
Nice clamp collection by the way.


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## lateralus819 (Mar 24, 2013)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Heres a question Dan-

On my cabinet I'm making. I can't have the frame hang"into" the cabinet because the top half on the left has a door inside so it would interfere with that. Plus the bottom has drawers and it would mess with them as well.

Would it even make sense to make a face frame of only 1" wide?


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...





> Would it even make sense to make a face frame of only 1" wide?
> 
> - lateralus819


Not really Lat. Face frames aren't mandatory. I would just edge band the plywood. Kinda like I did with my joinery bench cabinets.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Excellent blog sir. Gives me ideas.


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## lateralus819 (Mar 24, 2013)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


I had already done that! What a bitch that stuff is to cut cleanly. The package says to use a razor blade. Which is fine, but it follows the grain and you end up slicing too much off into the cabinet.

I took my blade out of my #4 1/2 LN and used it as a chisel plane and works awesome!


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Lat- sorry, I didn't mean that roll banding stuff. I meant to edge band it with hardwood like the top example:








I usually glue it oversized. Then trim down with a flush router bit or block plane.

Thanks Paul, Monte and Willie. Glad you could get something out of it.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Oops


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Great ideas, thanks for posting Red.


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## lateralus819 (Mar 24, 2013)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Actually looking at that pic Red, I might make a face from like the "best" image depicts.


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## lightcs1776 (Nov 14, 2013)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Fantastic tutorial, Red. Furniture making is my ultimate goal. I'll defintely be referring back to your post.


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Good blog post, Big Red One!

I think Norm Abrahm used pocket screws on the face frame, and attached it to the carcase with biscuits.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Thanks Red! I was just looking stuff like this up not more than 2-3 days ago!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Thnx for your 2-cents and your thoughts. Good coverage


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Thank you BRK. I appreciate you.


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...





> Thanks Red! I was just looking stuff like this up not more than 2-3 days ago!
> 
> - Mosquito


Ya Mos, the rabbet method just justify a guy busting out the ol no 45. I'd like to try it with the LN plow plane… if they ever release it;-)


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


lol there you go. I don't think I'd want to use my 45 on plywood though, so it'd have to be the rabbet just on the face frame for me


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## BigRedKnothead (Dec 21, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Nah, I was using ply on this case….but the principle is the same when attaching a face frame or solid wood case.


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## 7Footer (Jan 24, 2013)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


You da man Red, thanks for the blog, great info.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Now this is news I can use!

You forgot one method. Build the case then glue and brad nail the styles then the rails piece by piece.  Thats the way to go on shop furniture anyway, where you dont care about the visible nail holes. Or when its a "rustic" piece, the nail holes look like worm holes which are in style these days.


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## terryR (Jan 30, 2012)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the lessons, Red!
Must admit…have used my 45 on Birch ply.
There. I said it.


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## mochoa (Oct 9, 2009)

BigRedKnothead said:


> *Attaching Face Frames*
> 
> I've tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case.
> 
> ...


good info for sure. I've used the #45 on birch ply to. It works ok to until you hit some of the uglier knotty wood in the inner plys.


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