# old lathe for new guy



## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

I am new to the wood working. I picked up a 1950 Craftsmen lathe for 25 bucks. Not really sure where to go from there the motor isn't mounted that great. It is on a steel frame. I have turned some green wood down and tryed to turn some curly maple. But that didn't work to well.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

What did not go well?


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

PICTURES PLEASE :<))


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Well. I had a square piece if curly Maple and it didn't get round. It just jumped


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Welcome to Lumberjocks. Your initiation is coming up quickly. *Jumped*? Off the lathe? Where did it jumped to? Now you've just been initiated into the club and are a full member with good standing. hehe

Ok, if it "launched", it's possible your tail stock crept. It should be tight, and not move. I don't know what else to add….... .... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

when I turn something from a square I always cut off the corners ….or better yet draw circle with a compass ….then cut with bandsaw to start it round ….HOPE THIS HELPS :<))


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

I suggest starting off with cheap wood, pine is fine, until you get the hang of it. Save your curly maple for later.


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Ok just between centers so can I just get like 2×4 or glue 2×6


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Is this the style lathe you are talking about or old single steel tube version?

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=8280

Some tool bouncing understandable on square or out of round blanks. Remember you are cutting some dead space (air) turning a blank round. Start turning on slowest speed and don't force the cut. Make sure your tool is sharp and cutting wood, dull tools make you force the cut. Adjusting your tool rest as close as can without touching the blank and adjusting tool rest height will provide better tool support and decrease bouncing some what. As blank get thinner or rounded adjust your tool rest too!.


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Yes that is the lathe just on a metal stand and I just have the center drives to turn between centers.


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

What is the best way to tell what treads and mt I have so I can. Buy a face plate


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Found two you-tube video's on Sear King Sealy 1950's lathe and both say head/talstock MT-1 didn't watch long enough to see TPI mentioned just assume 3/4" x 16 TPI. Maybe some one else can square that away for you.


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Thank you


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

According to the 1950 sears catalog, Bill is correct - it has MT1 tapers and the spindle is 3/4"-16tpi:










Easiest way to get up to speed would be to get a thread tap so you can make your own faceplates and other accessories.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Thank you for posting and that was a very good read. Thank you


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

MT1 head and tail, 3/4-16 threads. I owned one for a few years, they are not a bad lathe. One of the YouTube videos is mine. First thing I would completely disassemble, clean up the casting flash, check bearings, and reassemble. King Seeley did minimal cleanup before assembling and they can perform poorly because of it. You may need to flatten the bottom of the top rest holder. It doesn't need to be perfect, just spend a few minutes on 80 grit, then 120. If you have any questions feel free to ask.


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## rodneywt1180b (May 5, 2017)

Congrats on getting a good lathe for cheap!
OWWM.org and VintageMachinery.org will have more info on it. You may find an owner's manual you can download at VintageMachinery.
I highly recommend looking for a turning club local to you. A good club will greatly accelerate your learning curve.
Careful. Turning can be addictive.
Rodney..


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Thank you guys very much. I believe the closest club is about 1.5 hrs away in Erie PA


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

So. I should be able to pull the head stock apart and clean everything in there and. Check or. Clean the bearings?


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

It's easy to take apart. I would do the headstock then tailstock. My tailstock was full of casting flash that made it work poorly. Also file the bottom of the ways. The bearing is a weird (but common) mixed unit. 
http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/p/bearing-guide.html


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Sorry to be new but what is the ways


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

I already took a honing stone to the tool rest and the rails. Got the surface rust off and got a good clean


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

The ways are probably those rails you just mentioned. The ways are what supports the head and tail stock.. The spindle is in the headstock, and the quill is in the tailstock. The banjo is between the head and tail stock, and supports the tool rest. The swing is the distance you get from the ways to the center of spindle. The length between centers isn't static as you start losing it when you add the spur, face plate, chuck, or other work holding device into the headstock, and then you need something for the tailstock, like a dead center or live center. Then you have some attachments that can be used on a live center…. There is a lot of stuff, but using it once, you'll start picking up the names and terms quickly….. .... More to come if you ask….... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## rodneywt1180b (May 5, 2017)

> Thank you guys very much. I believe the closest club is about 1.5 hrs away in Erie PA
> 
> - Vizslarunner


That's farther than I would want to drive. The next best thing is books, videos, youtube and forums like this one.
I can speak from personal experience that direct live instruction from experienced turners is better though.
Rodney


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Thank you guys for the info. I'm going to play with the lathe this afternoon I hope


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

So I got some time to. Play in the garage. I went to play with the lathe and. I had a piece of. 2×6 pine. I was going to turn. And I put it. On. And I started to try and turn it and I get big chunks take out and. It seems like. The late has a hard time getting it to spin. I have to sometimes turn the piece of wood by hand to get it to start. And then sometimes the spindle will just spin. And not the wood. I. Do think that the tailstock part. Isn't spinning like it's supposed too


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## rodneywt1180b (May 5, 2017)

What size motor? Is the belt tight? 
I work on a smaller older Sears Dunlap lathe with a dead center on the tailstock.
I've found that too much pressure from the tailstock can make the lathe bog down too. 
If I'm using the spur center I pre-cut the X in it for the center to bight into the wood without as much pressure. You can also drive the center into the wood with a couple taps with a wooden mallet.

The big chunks could be catches. Small light passes and approach the work with the chisel (gouge) correctly. You shouldn't have big chunks flying off. Maybe some better at turning will chime in. I hope.
Rodney


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

It's 3/4 hp motor and the belt is tight if I don't have wood on it . It spins good. I do have to tell you I. Don't have the best tools I picked them up for about 19.95 .


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> Do think that the tailstock part. Isn't spinning like it's supposed to


Live or dead center? If it's a live center and it's not spinning, then the bearing is toast. If it's a dead center, then try applying a little bit of wax as a lubricant.

Also, does the lathe spin up without any problem when there is no wood between centers? Could be the motor is having issues, like a bad start capacitor or even something like running it on 120v when it's wired for 240v.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Motor spins good when I don't have. Wood in and I'm not sure if it's live or dead not sure the difference I think dead stock


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

At the tailstock end, try spinning the point. If it doesn't spin and only about 1/2" diameter with a cup and small point it's more than likely a dead center. Put in *Live Center images* in your search engine. You'll be flooded with pictures of live centers. Stay away from the ones that have dances.

If you put in Dead Centers, there will be a lot of zombie pictures, but you'll also see some dead centers. Compare that to what you have…..... .... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Your description it's too vague. Learn some terminology and better describe what is happening.


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

It's a dead stock


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## mudflap4869 (May 28, 2014)

One picture is worth a thousand words when you need information. We have an old Craps-man lathe that looks a lot like yours. Runs like a top and produces good results. Wood turning books are available on line or in wood-crafting centers. *DON"T* ever break your tool rest, they are a booger to replace. *Beware of addiction*! We now own 4 lathes and lusting after another one.

One more thing to add. Buy the best lathe tools you can afford. Poor tools will only kill your enthusiasm for the hobby.


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## TheDane (May 15, 2008)

> One more thing to add. Buy the best lathe tools you can afford. Poor tools will only kill your enthusiasm for the hobby.


*AMEN!*


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Thank you guys. I will have to do some. Research and look into it. Wish I could find someone near me to help me along my journey. Here is the chunks I was talking about


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Watch some videos, it will save you a lot of heartache. Some of the lathe stuff will be different than your lathe but you'll get the gist. Don't just throw random pieces of wood on the lathe, imitate what you see in the videos.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

I'd start off with something other than a 2×6. If anything, slice it in half so it's more square and you aren't cutting so much air. Then, make sure it's set well into the drive spur, put some wax on your dead center (an old candle works well) and make sure you apply enough pressure via the tailstock. Sharpen your tools, and start making chips. Initially, you will need to take very light passes to break the corners down. Once you start getting somewhat round, you can start being more aggressive.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

I don't have a table saw. I will just go buy some 2×2 pine. And will have to learn how to sharpen


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Somewhere you said you live about 1 1/2 hours from Erie. So, I've been around that area, and just can not imagine you can not find a piece of wood other than construction grade lumber. Check your neighbors, and your neighbors neighbors to see if they have a piece of wood they will give you to turn. And if you don't have any neighbors, surely you will have trees around you to get branches from…. Perk up your nose for wood fires, and track it down. Just make sure you let whoever has the fire going know you're not there for food, just a piece of wood. ... You might get several pieces.

How about posting a picture of your tail stock and what's in it? Looking at the piece of wood you're showing, you've buried your spur into it and then it spun, hogging out whatever grip you did have. When that happens, tighten the tail stock again. Repeat if you have to. Are you sure your tool rest isn't moving and getting caught in the wood, causing the wood to stop spinning while the spindle is still spinning? Also, try starting your cut from the middle towards the head stock, then again from the middle towards the tail stock. Don't know what you were doing, but from the picture, it looks like you're trying to start at the corners of the wood. IMO only, that's not a good thing to do.

I'm going to elaborate on this a little. When ever your first starting to turn a spindle, it should be known that the cut should initiate towards the head stock from somewhere in the length of the spindle you are turning. If the piece is loose, the forward cutting pressure should keep it into the holding device you are using. You should notice any problems and correct them before the piece flies. Anyone want to debate that little gem, I would be more than willing to listen.. . ........ ........... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Well I went and got a piece of 2×2 pine. And made a jig to sharper my tools. And it turned allot better. I. Cut my own firewood 
but not sure how to take a big piece and use it yet


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## Picken5 (Jan 12, 2011)

Looks like you're beginning to get the hang of it. Turning is a lot easier with stock that is at least somewhat square. Getting the 2×2 was a good idea. I think a table saw is in your future. If not, there are lots of places online you buy turning stock, including ebay.


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Yes I have been in the market. For one. It was a lot easier to get if round and it cost a total of 2.11 for 8ft of 2×2


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## rodneywt1180b (May 5, 2017)

Your first picture with the end off a 2×6 you were cutting end grain and it's a soft wood to boot. Either use very sharp scrapers or a sharp bowl gouge to cut end grain. Either way the end grain is likely to require a lot more sanding than cutting with the grain to get it smooth. 
I work with hardwoods 99% of the time on a lathe. You can turn soft woods like pine or fir but it's easier to get good results with hardwoods like maple.
If you end up getting hooked on turning (easy to do) you'll want a decent bandsaw and there will probably be a chainsaw in your future as well. You'll also want to learn to sharpen. Sharp tools make a huge difference in your results and your enjoyment level.
I get a lot of my turning wood for free from things like storm damaged trees in the winter and sometimes people will set wood from trees they've pruned out at the curb. Fire wood and turning blanks have a lot in common.
Rodney


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Yes I have been in the market. For one. It was a lot easier to get if round and it cost a total of 2.11 for 8ft of 2×2


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

I have to find out how to. Make blanks with chainsaw I always have a bunch. Of scrap from cutting winter firewood


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

If you are only going to have one saw for wood turning, a bandsaw would be my choice.


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## rodneywt1180b (May 5, 2017)

I agree with Rick. For wood turning a bandsaw is the best way to go for trimming blanks. I'd go with a 14" at minimum for cutting blanks. That generally gives you a 6" high cutting capacity. A riser block kit will put you at 12" depth of cut. I have a 14" without the riser block. At times I find it to be a little small.

The ugly gnarly stuff you don't like to split is often the best wood for turning. I look for things like crotch sections, twisted grain and other defects. A lot of my turning wood is literally stuff that firewood cutters left behind.
Rodney


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## Vizslarunner (May 29, 2017)

Ok thank you guys. I. Just cut a. Piece of birch. For a campfire I already. Put away


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