# Longest Reciprocating Saw Blade Available?



## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

What is the longest reciprocating saw blade you have seen for sale? I have a 12" but would like a 24".
I have seen that Fein makes a 24" blade but it looks like the Fein blades do not match with the Milwaukee or other standard reciprocating saws that all the blades in the big box stores or amazon sells.

The more aggressive cut the better but if I have to settle for something that will cut metal, I can use it, it would just take longer to cut.

Any ideas?


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Why would you need such a long blade? the stroke of a reciprocating saw is only around an inch or two.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Buy the Fein blade and rivet or weld the
shank of a blade that will fit your saw to it.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

There might be longer out there but I haven't seen them as far as aggressive for wood there's one called "the ugly that's great for trimming tree limbs but will not take hitting metal

https://www.amazon.com/SKIL-94903-Reciprocating-Blade-3-Piece/dp/B000BM6D4O

Oh
I found a 24"but it is the Fein blade also

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/92982289


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> Buy the Fein blade and rivet or weld the
> shank of a blade that will fit your saw to it.
> 
> - Loren


That might end being what I"ll have to do. Or, possibly take a few 12" blades and join them together. I don't need the cut to be pretty.
I have to make some cuts on stock that's 18-20 inches wide and I only have a clearance of about 3/4" to get in there.
I was able to use the 12" blade but I still need to make deeper cuts.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated. I might try an 18" keyhole saw but I'm worried about the blade holding up. This is some thick pieces of wood I'm cutting through.


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## WhyMe (Feb 15, 2014)

> Why would you need such a long blade? the stroke of a reciprocating saw is only around an inch or two.
> 
> - MrRon


And what does stroke length have to do with needing a 24" blade?


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## firefighterontheside (Apr 26, 2013)

How about making one out of a handsaw.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> How about making one out of a handsaw.
> 
> - firefighterontheside


The problem is a handsaw blade is too thin. A reciprocating saw blade is rather thick so it won't bind and fold up from the high speed.


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Looks like it will do some serious cutting, only a one footer though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-48-00-1303-Sawzall-Blade-Wood-5-Teeth-per-Inch-12-Inch-Length-/152351553103?hash=item2378dc364f:g:rwwAAOSwux5YTLNw


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

How about this
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200626849_200626849?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Power%20Tools%20%3E%20Saw%20Blades%20%3E%20Reciprocating%20Saw%20Blades&utm_campaign=Diablo&utm_content=44314&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1v3G99CL1gIVk0oNCh0wNQxJEAQYAiABEgJ3xPD_BwE

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/2000x2000/443/44314_2000x2000.jpg


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

You could use a power hacksaw blade and grind the end to fit your saw, but they are expensive.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#power-hacksaw-blades/=198nhx1


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Is there another way to do what ever it is you're trying to do.? Chainsaw?Band saw? big foot circular saw?
If it's a one time cut perhaps you could rent another tool or buy a Harbor freight tool for the same as renting.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> Is there another way to do what ever it is you re trying to do.? Chainsaw?Band saw? big foot circular saw?
> If it s a one time cut perhaps you could rent another tool or buy a Harbor freight tool for the same as renting.
> 
> - a1Jim


What I'm doing is trying to make some relief cuts in my lumber stacks where a couple boards have warped enough to raise up one side of the entire lumber pile. I have to be able to make some sacrificial cuts on those slabs to take the pressure off the stickers and let the pile lower down to level. If not, I'll have a lot of boards that have a twist to them.

I "could" take apart the whole stack but these are stacks that are 4 foot wide and 5 foot tall and these boards that are warping are all near the bottom. They are lifting with enough force to raise one edge of the pile over an inch and a half higher than the other side.

The boards I need to cut are between 16 and 20 inches and the stickers are 3/4" tall so I need to be able to cut from one side only and in between the stickers. Reciprocating saw is about the only thing I can think of to make this cuts. A keyhole is possible but I'm not sure it's rigid along to make a cut that long along an entire board.


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## StephenO (Jun 7, 2011)

Just spitballing an idea here, but what about taking some 3/4" box steel, cut it long enough to slip alongside your stickers (one on top, one below), drill a vertical hole in each end, and then use a bolt at each end to force the warped boards back in line with the rest of the stack? Kind of like aligning a series of boards for a panel glue-up…


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> Just spitballing an idea here, but what about taking some 3/4" box steel, cut it long enough to slip alongside your stickers (one on top, one below), drill a vertical hole in each end, and then use a bolt at each end to force the warped boards back in line with the rest of the stack?
> 
> - StephenO


The stickers would break. Right now I have a 275 gallon tote full of water on top and it still won't push it back down. I wouldn't be able to get enough pressure with a bolt.


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## StephenO (Jun 7, 2011)

> Just spitballing an idea here, but what about taking some 3/4" box steel, cut it long enough to slip alongside your stickers (one on top, one below), drill a vertical hole in each end, and then use a bolt at each end to force the warped boards back in line with the rest of the stack?
> 
> - StephenO
> 
> ...


275 gallons of water is about 2200lbs, so that's a LOT of pressure in those warped boards. Cutting them free could lead to some nasty surprises.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Thanks for the info AZ
So basically you just have the thickness of the sticker to work with?

Here's a couple crazy ideas:

Do you think you could drill a hole long enough and wide enough with a long drill bit drilled through the edge that the weight of the stack would break the wood enough to get the pile flat?

Another thought is if you can get to the other side of the stack is to take a broken band saw blade and connect a handle on both ends and have a person on each side to pull it back and forth to cut off the pieces you need 
removed, or perhaps use the drilling technique and the band saw blade.

Ha ha typing a little slow great minds think alike similar ideas


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> Thanks for the info AZ
> So basically you just have the thickness of the sticker to work with?
> 
> Here s a couple crazy ideas:
> ...


The problem with one long saw is I don't want to cut all the boards. Some of these are 3-5 boards per layer.
I have thought of trying to make a way to hollow the board in areas like you were thinking. I think maybe an aircraft drill bit might be part of the answer. I was thinking originally with some kind of multi tool that has the front cutting blade but not sure I can get in deep enough. The drill bit is a good idea, thanks.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> Just spitballing an idea here, but what about taking some 3/4" box steel, cut it long enough to slip alongside your stickers (one on top, one below), drill a vertical hole in each end, and then use a bolt at each end to force the warped boards back in line with the rest of the stack?
> 
> - StephenO
> 
> ...


It's pretty stable and if the boards fall, it would be maybe a 1/4" at a time. With the state the boards are in, the wouldn't fall but slowly be pressed down over time.

I do have someone on hand when I do cut though, just in case something needs a little extra stability.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

Sounds like a helper and a restack may be the best bet.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I would say a 12" paddle (the Bosch with lead screw if poss) on a 12" extension in an electric drill? A long auger on a low speed HD drill would be even better to control.

I didn't catch slab thickness but I figure if you can drill close to the top of the slab the weight above will probably split it. An auger and a good drill would allow you to back it out if it closes on the bit.


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## rfbilliards (May 21, 2017)

When I was building log homes I was in need of some long blades. I could not find what I was looking for so I built my own. I bought some long aggressive hand saws and removed the handles. I then welded them to 12" long reciprocating saw blades. I was just a crazy thought but it worked way better than I thought it would. Several other log home builders saw them and now do the same thing.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> I would say a 12" paddle (the Bosch with lead screw if poss) on a 12" extension in an electric drill? A long auger on a low speed HD drill would be even better to control.
> 
> I didn t catch slab thickness but I figure if you can drill close to the top of the slab the weight above will probably split it. An auger and a good drill would allow you to back it out if it closes on the bit.
> 
> - TheFridge


Some of the slabs are 6/4 and otherss 12/4.
I'm thinking an augur bit about 1/4". If it does collapse, would running in reverse help me to back it out with the pressure.

I'm not worried about splitting the piece that's warping. I'm already going to cut a bit to the side of the sticker release pressure. Anything I drill will be a board that would be too warped to do anything with anyways.

Even though I air dry, the problem here is that it still dries too fast with the high heat so even with good weight on top I still have some boards warp like crazy. It's also the nature of these woods as well.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> When I was building log homes I was in need of some long blades. I could not find what I was looking for so I built my own. I bought some long aggressive hand saws and removed the handles. I then welded them to 12" long reciprocating saw blades. I was just a crazy thought but it worked way better than I thought it would. Several other log home builders saw them and now do the same thing.
> 
> - Greg Gimbel


How long could you go with those blades?


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

> Sounds like a helper and a restack may be the best bet.
> 
> - jbay


Yup ^^


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> Sounds like a helper and a restack may be the best bet.
> 
> - jbay
> 
> ...


As much as I would love to do that, it's really not a good idea. The wood is only just getting into the drying process. If I take it down, I could have a lot of boards start going crazy without the weight keeping them straight and restacking could be downright impossible on some of these. Trying to stack boards that are cupped or twisted is very hard to get things lined up and it would be very wobbly and then there would be even more a risk of the weights falling off the top.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> Sounds like a helper and a restack may be the best bet.
> 
> - jbay
> 
> ...


O I C said the blind man…


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## sawdustdad (Dec 23, 2015)

Get the manual chain saw that is designed to throw over a limb. It has a cord on each end. wrap it around the board to be cut and start sawing.


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## josephf (Aug 29, 2012)

i recall someone was making blades . cut the shank and then drilled the hole . i always wondered how easy it was to drill the hole . anyhow i guess you could get a handsaw ,use a cutoff blade in a grinder to rip it to the width you want . the problem i see is that any recipacating saw worth anything would break that blade off .maybe just rip the saw down to a narrow blade make a handle and get it done 
how about a long skinny drill bit .drill a hole down the center of the board and weaken it . might take a few holes .but 18" self feed bits are easy to get .


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

AZ
Is it possible to shove a piece of thick wood or flat iron or angle iron through the stack and put a jacks on both sides lifting the stack enough to use a sawzaw or circular saw to cut off the warped material? I would stack something in between (a tire rim etc)to make sure if your jacks fall you would not get trapped in the stack.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> AZ
> Is it possible to shove a piece of thick wood or flat iron or angle iron through the stack and put a jacks on both sides lifting the stack enough to use a sawzaw or circular saw to cut off the warped material? I would stack something in between (a tire rim etc)to make sure if your jacks fall you would not get trapped in the stack.
> 
> - a1Jim


I might try something like that on one part that I found I can reach. 
Drying lumber is one of the more frustrating parts of this process out here. It's just too fast out here.

I am definitely going to use your idea of the drill bit. I am going to town tomorrow to get one that i can use to weaken parts of the slab to let it give.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

I hope that works for you.


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## Idonotbelieveyou (Oct 5, 2016)

I want the longest possible blade to cut through the thousands of small roots on the Palm tree stump that I am removing. I just received a 17" blade, but it wasn't intended for reciprocating saws. Anyway, that's why I want a l-o-o-n-g blade. I tried a chainsaw, but was getting nowhere, and the reciprocating saw blades that I have work, but they're too short. Oh, yes, the information I have is that the Palm tree root ball goes down about 3'.


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## squazo (Nov 23, 2013)

https://industrialsupplymagazine.com/pages/Product---Hyde-Blades_101514.php
i dont know if it will cut what you need


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## Idonotbelieveyou (Oct 5, 2016)

Thanks but I don't see how a blade built to cut foam would be useful for the job I have in mind. I guess I'll just have to try the 12 inchers that I have just ordered. I've seen 24 inchers advertised, but they're too expensive, and they're for cutting metal. I need a blade that would be good for roots and soil. Thanks for the suggestion, though.


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