# staining cedar



## D_Allen (Oct 11, 2010)

Has anyone had any experience staining western red cedar to a dark color?
I know this seems silly as the color is fine with no stain.
Are there too many oils in the wood to allow it to take a dark stain like Jacobean?
It seems to just sit on the surface.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

The WRC I get here is smoothed on one side, but I like to work the rough side because it's very beautiful when sanded down properly. I just use spar on my Adirondack chairs when I make them out of cedar, I've never tried to stain one.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

I put some Minwax Special Walnut on some WRC a few days ago to clean out a brush. It soaked in nicely and finished out pretty well.


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## D_Allen (Oct 11, 2010)

Well, I'm probably going to quit trying. I did use some blotch control on it first so maybe that was part of the problem. However, I have determined that just sanding it down smooth prevents stain penetration. This stuff reacts much differently then what I an used to.
Below is a test piece and the one I an currently working on. There isn't any noticeable difference between the one with blotch control and the one just sanded. 
Maybe I should consider a rotary wire brush and try again. As you can see, the raw wood took all of the stain and is nearly black. BTW, the attempt here is to simulate a maduro cigar color, being very dark.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Try sanding to a lesser grit (180-220). It appears that the 600 is burnishing the wood preventing the stain from penetrating. I have stained cedar with Min Wax cherry and got along fine. Did not use any sealer/blotch control.


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## Dal300 (Aug 4, 2011)

You might try cleaning the cedar with paint thinner, mineral spirits or even Naphtha before staining. there might be a lot of resin present in the wood preventing the stain from soaking in.

I also agree with gfadvm…. no need to sand soft wood to such a fine finish. 180-220 is fine enough.

One of my favorite methods is to mix up some WB poly with water.. 50/50 mix and putting a thin coat on the wood. It seems to lock in the resins and bring the 'fuzz' up so it can be pre sanded.

Good Luck!


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Just sand to 180 grit and try staining that, I bet you'll like it.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

You could also try to stain the rough cedar and then when it's dry work it. When it's smooth it won't take stain, but it will when it's rough. Only problem is I don't think you'll be able to use blotch control that way.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

The same applies to ALL woods, I never sand with finer than 220grit before applying stain. It closes the pores too much to let the stain penetrate.


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## D_Allen (Oct 11, 2010)

Good suggestions all.
Thank you all for your expertise. I apparently got too involved in making pens that I forgot the basics of staining.
Below is what I was after indeed.
I used some 220 grit and sanded lengthwise and in small circular patterns. I also put the stain on heavy and waited a while for it to soak in. I admit that I had my doubts…but you were all right.
Thanks again.


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

D_Allen, Try using Charles Neil Pre Color Conditioner on one. I think you'll be impressed at the difference you'll see. 
https://charlesneilwoodworking.3dcartstores.com/Charles-Neils-Pre-Color-Conditioner--Blotch-Control_p_47.html


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## D_Allen (Oct 11, 2010)

Well, here's how the top turned out. It took many days to dry enough to finish.


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