# How do I take apart this Millers Falls block plane?



## ColonelTravis (Mar 19, 2013)

Tiny screw on the side is not cooperating.










Need to avoid stripping it, what's the best way to get this out? As for the rest, it seems to be fairly straightforward. There's a little pin I need to tap out on the back, otherwise I guess that's it? So many how-to's all over the place with bench planes, very little about the smaller ones. I'll post one of this one, just really want to be careful with that screw. I've got lots of mini screwdriver heads and I obviously want the widest one that fits, but none are doing the job.

Also - the wood knob just screws on the front, and when I took that off some of the wood inside crumbled out. It's still threaded inside, and I didn't put it back on because I didn't want to keep putting it on and taking it off and risk ruining the threads. Is there a way to strengthen the inside of the knob?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Can you take a picture from the top? That looks like a 103 knock off which mean the cap should be under a bar. I've never seen a plane that style where the side screw did anything. If you completely loosen the cap, it slide from under the bar.

As for the knob, it depends how bad it is. Some wood stabilizer may work. You can also wax the threads really well and add some epoxy. The wax will prevent the epoxy from sticking to the metal and form a new set in the wood.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Do you have a cordless impact driver? I've had success with one trying to get stubborn screws out where a hand screwdriver would just destroy the head.


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## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

Put down the impact driver and back away from the plane.
Like Don said, that "screw" on the side is not there to help you disasemble. You just need to move that wheel underneath the lever cap. Look at it from the side and you'll see which way the threads go on that bolt it it sitting on. Turn it until it is loose. If you can't turn it by hands then channel-locks with a gentle-touch and some tape over the jaws will get it started. Once you loosen that up the lever-cap will just slide out the back.


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## ColonelTravis (Mar 19, 2013)

For reference, this is equivalent to a Stanley 120.


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## ColonelTravis (Mar 19, 2013)

JJ - success!










As for the knob - is there a way to make the inside threads more stable? Wood filler? Glue? Something else?
This site is invaluable. Thanks.


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## GlenintheNorth (Dec 6, 2016)

You know…I realize I'm necroposting, but that is a very, very early type 1 #97. That plane was probably made in 1929, in the first year they were released. The red caps were quickly replaced with black.

I also have a type 1 #97, but my cap is black. I hope you haven't repainted it!


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## ColonelTravis (Mar 19, 2013)

Long ago repainted and sitting on my bookshelf, only plane I've ever bought for non-use. It is what it is. But I appreciate the info.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

great to see both the before and after shot 
congrat with the fine result 
and thanks for sharing 

Dennis


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## GlenintheNorth (Dec 6, 2016)

It looks great!


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## ColonelTravis (Mar 19, 2013)

Thanks. This DupliColor engine paint, which is really popular to use in black for Stanley restores, ended up being pretty much a perfect match for Millers Falls red. I also used it for the lever cap lettering in my MF #9.



















The underneath side is original, top is what I painted.


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## GlenintheNorth (Dec 6, 2016)

That is really interesting…

I have been a little worried about the tint of the red paints on the market. I have a type 1 #9 coming that has already has some repaint done to it. I want to strip and recoat. That red looks very close.


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## ColonelTravis (Mar 19, 2013)

Sorry, I also did the frog on my 9 with that paint. I haven't compared it to an original untouched 9. It's kind of hard to gauge from just a photograph, but originally when I compared the underside of that block plane cap to the engine paint I honestly could not tell a difference. I left the underside as it was, no retouching. And just a minute ago I took another look, got the cap off and still could not tell a difference. To me it's a great match.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

It does look good!


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

That's the same paint I used on my MF9. It's a nearly perfect match.


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## GlenintheNorth (Dec 6, 2016)

I might have to send you some frogs for blasting, Don. I'm not allowed to do them at work! Something about contamination and the FDA or something…


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

You've got my address.


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## GlenintheNorth (Dec 6, 2016)

> You ve got my address.
> 
> - Don W


That I do. When this 9 comes I will ponder it. Might have to wait for warmer weather…paint won't dry in this crap in the north.


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