# Circular saw is not working!



## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

I try to make some angle cuts with my homeowner grade skil circular saw, and it runs but when I start cutting wood with it slows down and wont cut the wood. I am wondering whats the trouble?


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## mattg (May 6, 2008)

Dull blade???


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## D_Allen (Oct 11, 2010)

Cheap saw


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Blade nut not tight enough?


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## SSMDad (Apr 17, 2011)

Doubt it's the saw. (wow what is it with all the snide comment from some people today?)

I'm leaning toward what Matt said. Either that or there's a lot of resin buildup on the blade that just needs to be cleaned off. Try that and see if it works better.

Good luck.


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## JasonWagner (Sep 10, 2009)

Blade on backwards? Pinching the blade (twisting the saw)? Is it a corded saw?


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

The blade is sharp, I have not been using it much. Yes it is a corded saw.


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## SSMDad (Apr 17, 2011)

Hmm..strange. Of course I know next to nothing about the mechanics of equipment except to check the blade. Hope you find the answer.


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## Manitario (Jul 4, 2010)

gremlins?


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

Is there any blade binding or burn marks on the wood. If it cuts at a 90 deg ok and not on an bevel cut then I'd question if the plate is folding back and having a bind built-in on the swivel.

Also if it doesn't have the problem at 90 deg and what degree does the problem start to show.

5 deg's ok, 10 deg still ok, 15 deg starting to show. 20 deg more so. Just a trial and error check.


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## docholladay (Jan 9, 2010)

When you say you are making "angled cuts" do you mean at an angle across the board or is it cutting with the saw set at a bevel setting. If using the bevel setting, it effectively makes the cut like cutting through a thicker piece of wood. This could cause the saw to bog down some. It depends on the material too. Another question is, what is the amp rating of your saw. If it is the typical 12 amp homeowner grade saw, the combination of cutting on a bevel through some tough material and the fact that 12 amp is not a powerful motor, it could simply be boging down. Is the motor getting physically hot to the touch? Also, does it shut down quickly, or after getting some ways into the cut. If it shuts down as soon as the blade touches the wood, I would have to suspect that the saw motor is about burned up. If it gets into the cut and then bogs down, I would have to say it could be part of the items I've desribed above or possibly, the blade getting in a bind during the cut. If you are cutting construction grade pine, I could easily see the wood warping and closing in on the back of the blade causing the saw to bind. If that is the case, then be very careful. That could lead to a bad kickback. I had a guy working on some siding at my house have a circular saw kick back and cut his wrist very badly. He actually passed out en route to the emergency room. If they had not gotten him there as quick as they did, it could have been really bad.

Doc


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

CJ,

Making compound angle cuts with a skill saw can be challenging. I think it is a combination of the blade guard not retracting and this is forcing the saw to to twist and pinch the blade.

Although it is not recommended in the manual, try retracting the blade guard fully, by hand, then make the cut and see if the same thing happens.

Lew


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Yes its a 12 amp motor, I was trying to make some angle cuts in 1/2'' plywood for my sawhorses. I had to finish the cut with my crosscut handsaw.


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

I also have a 12a Skil. Probably the same model. I had the same issue while trying to cut some 3/4" subflooring. I blamed the saw, thinking it was too weak or poorly built to handle the job. As it turned out, the culprit was the (original) blade. I had only cut a couple dozen 2×4s and halved a sheet of MDF with it, but even after such little use it was dull. And to be honest, the saw seemed pretty whimpy from day one.
Once I replaced it with a new/better blade, it was a completely different tool. Its definitely not a high-end performer, and lacks the power and accuracy of pro-quality saws. But with a good blade installed, its proved to be adequete for my needs. I think mine currently has a $7 hitachi blade installed. 
I'd replace the blade on your saw. If nothing else, you'll eliminate it as a possible cause of the problem. And it never hurts to have a spare lying around. You'll eventually need it anyway.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

I guess so, but I think its time to upgrade to a better saw.


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## Woodwrecker (Aug 11, 2008)

Time to go saw shopping Charles !!!


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## Tedstor (Mar 12, 2011)

OK. Of course, you'll be hard pressed to find a saw that doesn't come with a crappy blade. Be prepared to replace it in any case. Hope this helps.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

I have an old 12 amp Skilsaw… installed a dialog blade and it cuts like a champ. The tool may be cheap, but it should cut well.


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## REK (Aug 30, 2009)

Don't know about motors, but if it's a real old saw could the brushes be worn???


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

Its about 10 years old, the brushes could be worn. I have a Hitachi 7-1/4'' Circular Saw Blade on it.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

that's the problem with buying cheap tools

in the end 
they are still
cheap tools


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

David.


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## patron (Apr 2, 2009)

while diagonally ripping 10' cedar boards
at mary annes recently

http://lumberjocks.com/LateNightOwl/blog/24878

i was having trouble ripping
(i made a two sided sled for the saw 12' long
one side for the bevel cuts
for the first boards for the ceiling/wall cuts
the other for straight sun ray cuts) 









went to lowes
and bought a 3 pack of irwin 'marathon' 24t blades for $15 (?)

cut like butter

my old blade looked good
and felt sharp

but the new one made all the difference


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## LeeBarker (Aug 6, 2010)

Using my little Rockwell panel saw recently I experienced a slowdown. It was a wood chip caught between a brush and the armature. I think on your saw a single screw removes the end grille and you could check the brushes then easily.

Kindly,

Lee


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

Charles, like Lee mentioned. Check the brush socket. My BT3100 suffered a slowdown recently, bogged down cutting 3/4" cedar of all things… Opened it up and the brush pocket / armature area was full of sawdust…blew it out, reassembled and it works like new again… I am probably going to have to rip this motor apart and clean it out in the long run…


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## jack1 (May 17, 2007)

Were you using an extension cord? If so, what gauge is the wire and how long. Makes a difference.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

I go with the guys saying the blade guard is binding. This happens when you try to cut at angles. the guard was designed to make perpindicular cuts. help it a little by lifting on the guard lever slightly when you need the guard to get on top of the wood. then you can turn it loose and it should saw.


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

I try it today and it worked fine.


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## glue4you (Aug 11, 2011)

Come on, so many people wrecking their brains …

What did you do? Nothing? It just worked again?


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## Beginningwoodworker (May 5, 2008)

I tighten the blade.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

You're welcome (see post #3)


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## D_Allen (Oct 11, 2010)

Cheap saws have loose blades!
;-)


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

LOL, D_Allen!


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