# Bandsaw Restoration



## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

*New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*

As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.

So, for $100, I figured I was getting a pretty good deal, yet at the same time I figured the machine would need some work to perform to its full potential. Here's the full view:










As you can see, there's minimal rust on the machine, something I was pretty surprised about when I saw it. What looks like rust is just gunk and sawdust built up in places here and there. I took a small brush and started cleaning some parts off, just to be sure, and found no rust under the build up.

Here's the label on the front, and the serial # tag on the back (which I didn't notice was blurry till now… but it's too damn cold in my garage to retake it right now…):



















And here's the table top, which measures 14"x14". The surface is not bad, there's very little actual surface rust - the discoloration looks like paint or stain that was spilled on it at some point in the past. I took a random orbit sander to a small part to see how easy it'd be to clean up, and I got shiny metal within a minute of sanding. There's a small ding on the back side of the table, but it's not bad, and no crack. The table insert is pretty chewed up, but I could not get it out of the table. I don't know if it snaps in, or twist-locks in or what, but I couldn't get it to budge.










Here's the shot under the table, showing the guide block holders for the bottom. This saw is a bit odd apparently… it has 3 1/2"x1/2" cubic guide blocks, and one 1/2"x1/2" guide block that is skewed (parallelogram I think it's called?). The holder for the skewed guide block is clearly visible in this picture:










Any idea where I could get a set of guide blocks to match this? It seems like most of the saws that have skewed block configurations are larger than 1/2". The trunions for the table are all in good shape, and the table tilts pretty well… it's a little stiff after 30 degrees or so, so I'll probably need to clean up some gunk from underneath to get it to tilt freely… not that I plan on using it while tilted.

Here's the upper wheel, after the top guard was removed. The tires on this thing are shot… hard, dry, and cracked all over, so I'll have to get some new tires for it. The wheels seem to be a modern standard size (12" diameter, over 1" wide), and I've seen on at least one forum the mention that urethane tires work fine on these, so that'll be a future purchase. Once again, all the stuff that looks like rust is just gunk build up, it wipes off with little effort, so it should be an easy clean up. The wheel bearings seem to be in good shape, and the wheels spin nice and easy.










Here's a view of the upper blade guide, I took one of the guide blocks out to measure it (these are the old style brass type). The thrust bearing looks pretty rough, but it still spins ok - though it needs to be cleaned up. I used to play roller hockey, and I've seen worse, so a nice bath in some WD40 should be all that's required to get these working well again (the lower looks a bit worse, more gunk built up on it).










Here's the motor, it's a 1/2HP Eicor.










And here's the tension adjustment knob and height adjustment for the upper guide. There is just over 6.25" of capacity when all the way up (at 6.5", the thrust bearing rubs against the upper blade guard).










So, why no blade on this? Because I already broke it :-/

I was testing out the saw on some scraps of maple, and it was not going well… the blade seemed to be burning through the wood more than it was cutting it. I don't know much about bandsaw blades yet, but this one was a 1/4" 6TPI blade, so I'm sure it was less than ideal for cutting through something as hard as maple (probably dull as a butter knife too). The edges of the wood were absolutely blackened, so I'm sure I over heated the blade. Also, I doubt the previous owner de-tensioned the blade after using it (the tension on the blade seemed pretty high to me), so with all that going it really didn't surprise me that the blade snapped at the weld point after a couple of test cuts. I've already researched getting a Timber Wolf blade for this, based on the reviews here, so I'll look to get that in the near future as well.

One of the really cool things about OWWM, is that they have manuals scanned in, including one for the 912. So, the recommended blade size is 3/8", and (as you can see written all over the outside of the upper cover) the blade length is 82". This seems to be a pretty standard blade, so it shouldn't be too expensive to pick up.

Overall, the machine runs pretty quiet, though there is a noticeable vibration. If replacing the tires and blade don't correct that, I may look to replace the belt to the motor, and even maybe rebuild the stand the whole thing is mounted on. The current one is quite large, with a hinged lid and compartment for storing stuff. Looking at the later Atlas 912's, they all seem to have the motor mounted below, and many people have fabricated belt guards for them, which is something I really like. Also, I'm not a fan of the current power switch location, and I'll probably move that in the future regardless (maybe upgrade to a larger paddle-style switch). The space between the feet is open as well, so it may be possible to add dust collection ability as well.

So, that's my new old tool  I'm pretty excited about it, as I've never bought a tool this old before. I find it very cool just thinking that this thing is 60+ years old, and still looks to be in pretty damn good shape!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Jimi_C said:


> *New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*
> 
> As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.
> 
> ...


Looks like it's might need some work or at least a new blade


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## drfixit (Oct 16, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*
> 
> As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.
> 
> ...


Cool! I love older machines and I am a craigslist addict, over half of my shop came off craigslist.


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*
> 
> As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.
> 
> ...


@a1Jim: yep, I was researching blades pretty much all afternoon, even before breaking the one that came with this. I had pretty much settled on the Timber Wolf, since it has many good reviews on this site. I had hoped the tires weren't shot, but as a realist I figured they would need replacing.

My main question is, where can I find guide blocks for the odd setup this saw uses? The Cool Blocks and ceramic blocks sold by Rockler/Woodcraft don't seem to match up perfectly (no skewed guide).


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## ward63 (Dec 12, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*
> 
> As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.
> 
> ...


Why not make your own guide blocks out of lignum Vitae, Verawood, or some Teak?
Cut to size with a fine tooth handsaw.


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*
> 
> As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.
> 
> ...


@ward63: I suppose I could do that  If all else fails, that's what I'll do.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*
> 
> As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.
> 
> ...


You will learn alot from restoring your new toy. Best of luck.
That bandsaw is similar to some of older Jumberjocks…over 60+ years ols and still in pretty good damn shape.


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## DavidD3 (Dec 12, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*
> 
> As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.
> 
> ...


I've always ended up being more comfortable with machines I've had to take apart and fix or fiddle with in some way. Understanding a machine inside and out helps a lot.

Good luck fixing it up. It's great to see an old warhorse like that put to use than melted down for scrap.


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## Splinterman (Mar 13, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*
> 
> As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.
> 
> ...


Hey Jimi,
Just been down this road and it was fun to do…enjoy the experience.


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*
> 
> As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.
> 
> ...


About wood guides - I found this doing some googling: http://www.inthewoodshop.org/methods/wwc03n.shtml. It sounds like just about any hardwood will work, and letting them soak up some WD-40 provides lubrication to the blade as well as the blocks while preventing scorching of the wood. Looks like this will be the way to go for sure, so I'll get to making some new guide blocks this weekend.

I have also been looking through the manual on OWWM again, and noticed that the arm is detachable from the base, meaning I could add a riser if I wanted more resaw capacity in the future. The downside of course is that I'd probably have to fabricate it myself (or pay a machinist to do it…).


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## ward63 (Dec 12, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*
> 
> As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.
> 
> ...


Just remember to keep the blocks behind the blade 'set'. There's no point in dulling the blade further by having them on the 'set' or in front of the blade. Although the WD-40 sounds like a good idea, I never really liked the smell of it. On smaller, more delicate blades…1/8"-1/4", I use white oak blocks soaked in carnauba wax. It doesn't burn, has no smell and works great.

Good luck


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*
> 
> As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.
> 
> ...


I was curious about that, whether I should keep the blocks behind the set or not, since the wood is so soft compared to the metal blocks. I know for the Cool Blocks brand, it says it's ok (and preferred) to have the blocks in front of the blade, but for the ceramic brand they say not to. I'll position them behind, just to be safe, like you say.


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## gatosailor (Jan 25, 2010)

Jimi_C said:


> *New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*
> 
> As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.
> 
> ...


On your next trip to HF, buy a buffing set for your grinder. It starts with sandpaper and works its way up to compound. Will polish up the table nicely.


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## jim45 (Sep 21, 2015)

Jimi_C said:


> *New Old (Really, Really Old...) Toy*
> 
> As I mentioned here, I acquired a new toy last night, which I had been considering for a while. I found this on Craigslist, and I started doing some research on OWWM. As it turns out, Power King was a pretty popular machine maker back in the day, and was acquired by Atlas Press Tool Co. (another pretty popular manufacturer) in the late 40's. The 912 was sold pretty much as-is by Atlas after that, as you can see from the OWWM page (they look almost identical except for the paint color). Mine is branded "Power King", so it was made some time between 1942 and 1948, more likely closer to 1942 since the serial # is 2889.
> 
> ...


Hello Jim;
I also have a power king 912 bandsaw and I have been trying to rebuild. The cool blocks for it will also fit a delta 14" but I am having trouble with the thrust bearing. I have turned it into a tabletop saw with the motor behind the saw. I am thinking of using SpaceAge Ceramics, LLC , 192 Kurtz Lane, Hamilton, MT 59840 for the cool blocks and the hopefully also the thrust bearings. Wish you luck.
Jim


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

*Progress, at last*

Now that the temperatures are slowly but surely starting to climb again, I'm finally able to work in my garage again for more than 5 minutes. In addition to my table project, I've started working on restoring the Power King 912 in December.

I've been slowly but surely striping off pieces, but had run into a road block with the wheels… the bearings were stuck solid. Someone on LJ (Grizzman?) suggested I look into getting a gear puller, so Harbor Freight to the rescue!



















After a little wrangling, I managed to pop the axle out of the top wheel, and popped both the bottom wheel and pulley wheel off the bottom axle. I think these might be the original bearings - they took some of the paint with them when they came off. When the top finally gave, it was after a LOT of cranking on the gear puller, and at first I was afraid I had cracked one of the cast iron spokes.

This is why I'm stripping it down piece by piece:










This band saw is 50+ years old, and it looks like it was never cleaned in all those years. Here's all the pieces (minus the bottom wheel) laid out on my corner bench. All of them have had a good wipe down with WD40, though I'll probably take a little soap and water to them:










I haven't decided if I'm going to repaint it, though I'm definitely leaning towards it. There's a bit of rust on the outside bottom under the pulley wheel (visible in the pic above), and the paint is a bit worn in some areas. If I do paint it, I'm not sure if I'll keep it Power King green (I'm leaning towards good old black Rustoleum).

Beyond all this, here's the last problem:










That bugger will not come off. I'm trying to be somewhat gentle with this, because I don't want to crack anything. If I had another 1/8" I could use the gear puller on it, but there's just a bit too little space to get the arms around it. Any suggestions?

I'm also not 100% sure how to get the bottom axle out, I'm going to have to look at the OWWM manual for this again to see how it all goes together. More likely than not, the two bottom bearings are frozen to the frame just as badly as the top ones were…


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## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Jimi_C said:


> *Progress, at last*
> 
> Now that the temperatures are slowly but surely starting to climb again, I'm finally able to work in my garage again for more than 5 minutes. In addition to my table project, I've started working on restoring the Power King 912 in December.
> 
> ...


Looks like you are gonna need a bearing splitter to get that bearing off the tilt shaft. The drive shaft might have a couple of snap rings inside the housing. Once you have the lower wheel off the shaft "may" slide out the other way. There should also be a couple of spring washers inside behind the bearings. If so, watch their orientation as it comes out.

After looking at the pics again it appears to go together just like my old Delta 14. The shaft should come out to the pulley side. A few blows with a mallet should loosen it up. I would recommend a real good penetrating oil. PB BBlaster, Kroil ( my fav) or a mixture of kerosene and tranny fluid. Let it SOAK for a while and it should start moving.


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## mrg (Mar 10, 2010)

Jimi_C said:


> *Progress, at last*
> 
> Now that the temperatures are slowly but surely starting to climb again, I'm finally able to work in my garage again for more than 5 minutes. In addition to my table project, I've started working on restoring the Power King 912 in December.
> 
> ...


I have two suggestions. First is a pickle fork, used to get ball joints off, It tapers looks like a two prong fork walk the bearing off. The other is if the bearing was off the shaft would the shaft come off the backer plate? If so have the assembly pressed out at a auto parts store, local machine or at your local mechanic.


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## doordude (Mar 26, 2010)

Jimi_C said:


> *Progress, at last*
> 
> Now that the temperatures are slowly but surely starting to climb again, I'm finally able to work in my garage again for more than 5 minutes. In addition to my table project, I've started working on restoring the Power King 912 in December.
> 
> ...


why not repaint in green or pm gold?
rustollium black is just not meant for wood working machinery…

great job on being so thorugh on the break down.


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## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Jimi_C said:


> *Progress, at last*
> 
> Now that the temperatures are slowly but surely starting to climb again, I'm finally able to work in my garage again for more than 5 minutes. In addition to my table project, I've started working on restoring the Power King 912 in December.
> 
> ...


I would NOT a pickle fork. The pot metal behind the bearing will not support the fork and WILL break.


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## BOB67CAM (Dec 28, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *Progress, at last*
> 
> Now that the temperatures are slowly but surely starting to climb again, I'm finally able to work in my garage again for more than 5 minutes. In addition to my table project, I've started working on restoring the Power King 912 in December.
> 
> ...


i agree with medic, what i would do personally is weld a couple peices of steel to the bearing race and use the wheel puller on those, and use your prefernce of penetrating oil, mine is jb-80 but as others have mentioned let it soak , u could also heat up the bearing race a bit before pulling but dont heat up the axle or itll get tighter but be very weary of that cast metal as it would take some big money to have it replced if u cant find the part and need to have 1 machined
good luck!


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *Progress, at last*
> 
> Now that the temperatures are slowly but surely starting to climb again, I'm finally able to work in my garage again for more than 5 minutes. In addition to my table project, I've started working on restoring the Power King 912 in December.
> 
> ...


@mrg: I was trying to avoid removing the hinge pin, but it does look like if it were removed I could easily get leverage on the bearing and use the gear puller on it. I do like the idea of attaching something to the bearing to get better leverage on it, so I'll probably try that first. My fear is that removing/replacing it could cause something to crack from too much stress.

@doordude: Yeah, now that I think about it black would show every bit of dust, so I'll see if I can find a green close to the Power King shade. Grizzly's green actually looks pretty similar, so I may try and match up with that.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions!


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *Progress, at last*
> 
> Now that the temperatures are slowly but surely starting to climb again, I'm finally able to work in my garage again for more than 5 minutes. In addition to my table project, I've started working on restoring the Power King 912 in December.
> 
> ...


After researching what a bearing splitter is, it looks pretty much like what I was considering doing. I was going to see if I could find a U-shaped piece of metal (maybe cut a chunk out of a large washer) and use that to get a lip around the bearing to pull it off. The bearing splitter looks like the "right" way to do that, though they are a bit pricey ($25 even at Harbor Freight).

I'm pretty thrifty, and I don't know if I can justify $25 for a single-use item, when that would almost buy new urethane tires. I'll try and go the cheap route, but if I can't get it off that way I'll splurge on the bearing splitter.


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## gatosailor (Jan 25, 2010)

Jimi_C said:


> *Progress, at last*
> 
> Now that the temperatures are slowly but surely starting to climb again, I'm finally able to work in my garage again for more than 5 minutes. In addition to my table project, I've started working on restoring the Power King 912 in December.
> 
> ...


Suggest you try Auto Zone or similar for the specialty tools. They have loaner tools that you can use for free (i.e., even cheaper than HF). PB Blaster pentrating oil might be worth a try.


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

*Quick Update*

Progress is continuing on the restoration, I'm grabbing an hour here or there to work on it.

The bottom axle was pretty easy to remove after all - a block of wood and a rubber mallet got it out ok. The only stubborn part was the woodruff key on the end of the axle that (of course) had to be removed for the axle to come out. I had to mangle it a little to get it out, but I think it will be ok. If not, I'll just order a new one from McMaster-Carr.

That one damn bearing will STILL not come off the top axle. I've tried everything short of the bearing splitter, so it looks like I may have to splurge on one to get that sucker off. I did call AutoZone, as suggested, but the guy at the local place said he didn't have a bearing splitter, and probably wouldn't have much more luck than me with his gear pullers.

The replacement bearings have started arriving. I'm exceptionally glad that I decided to replace them - all of the existing ones are in horrible shape and rotate in a very chunky way. I found it odd that the top bearings are imperial (5/8"x1 3/8"x7/16") but the bottom and thrust bearings are metric (6202, 6204). I ordered the top bearings off ebay, and they should be here today, so that will be all 6 I need. Once I'm done painting, I'll start reassembling.

Speaking of paint, I'm going with Rustoleum pro over Rustoleum bare metal primer. I've only painted 4 pieces so far, and only primed one of them, but I think I'll be priming from here on out. I threw all of the small pieces in the dish washer to clean them (thought it'd be easier than hand washing everything to get all the grime/WD40 off), and the paint started flaking on some pieces due to the high heat. So I'll probably be taking the electric sander to all the rest and priming them before doing the final coat. The color is hunter green, which is quite a bit brighter than the PowerKing drab green, but I think it looks good - the wife even commented that the painted parts look brand new.

So that's all for now, hopefully I'll have some pictures with the next update.


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## MedicKen (Dec 2, 2008)

Jimi_C said:


> *Quick Update*
> 
> Progress is continuing on the restoration, I'm grabbing an hour here or there to work on it.
> 
> ...


In the future if you ever need bearings contact Lynne Scott at Accurate bearing.


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## Will_Wood (Jan 2, 2012)

Jimi_C said:


> *Quick Update*
> 
> Progress is continuing on the restoration, I'm grabbing an hour here or there to work on it.
> 
> ...


Jimi_C -

I know it's been awhile since you posted this, but I'm hoping you can help me out. I'm performing rehab to an ol' Power King 912 in a very similar manner as you did.

I'm facing the same situation in trying to get the bottom shaft and bearings out of the casting for replacement. You mentioned a block of wood and a mallet did the trick. Can you confirm you knocked out the assembly in the direction of the pulley side?

Thanks for posting your process and for saving a piece of good ol' American iron.

Will


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *Quick Update*
> 
> Progress is continuing on the restoration, I'm grabbing an hour here or there to work on it.
> 
> ...


Will_Wood: Cool, glad to see there are still more of these out there.

Yes, I tapped the axle out from the wheel side, pushing it out towards the pulley side. It's been a while, but if I remember right the axle is shaped with a step (you can see it on the last page of the manual: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1138/2885.pdf). Because of that, the bearings can not slide past a certain point, so you have to remove it from the pulley side.

Good luck!


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## Will_Wood (Jan 2, 2012)

Jimi_C said:


> *Quick Update*
> 
> Progress is continuing on the restoration, I'm grabbing an hour here or there to work on it.
> 
> ...


Jimi_C -

Thanks for the confirmation. That enabled me to ramp up the force on the hammer, and it came out w/o problem. I'll try to post my process once I've completed the rehab. I'm also tearing into the old Craftsman 1/2 hp motor (looks like it could be original) and the Atlas stand. I hope to have a fully cleaned up unit in another month or so.

Will


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

*Another Short Update, and Why I Hate Spray Paint*

So, I thought everything was going along great, things were looking good… then this happened on several pieces after spray painting after the primer coat:










It appears the paint isn't adhearing to the metal there, despite the fact that I washed these pieces in my dishwasher to clean them off, and sanded them to remove loose paint/scuff up the surface. Anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Maybe I didn't clean the surface enough after sanding?

It seems the paint is going on better without a primer coat, as shown in this pic:










Only the upper wheel cover was primed, and it had 2 small spots that started cracking like above. I sanded those down to the metal, wiped it down with a damp cloth, and re-sprayed - which seems to be working. Hopefully another spray or two will even out the surface, as right now there's a noticeable divit where I sanded down through the coats of paint.


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## 559dustdesigns (Sep 23, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *Another Short Update, and Why I Hate Spray Paint*
> 
> So, I thought everything was going along great, things were looking good… then this happened on several pieces after spray painting after the primer coat:
> 
> ...


I like machine restorations. Keep at it, it's looking great.


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

Jimi_C said:


> *Another Short Update, and Why I Hate Spray Paint*
> 
> So, I thought everything was going along great, things were looking good… then this happened on several pieces after spray painting after the primer coat:
> 
> ...


I just referred another LJer to

www.OWWM.com

These guys spray paint old restoration project in their sleep. They will offer you some solid advice.

As for me, www.delmarlearning.com gives some causes for wrinkling, lifting or blistering:

PAINT WRINKLING
Paint wrinkling is a severe puckering of the paint film that appears like the skin of a prune. It is more common
with enamel paints. There is a loss of gloss as paint dries.

Causes of Wrinkling
Improper drying. When a freshly applied topcoat is baked or force dried too soon, softening of the undercoats can occur. This increases topcoat solvent penetration and swelling.In addition, baking or force drying causes surface layers to dry too soon. The combination of these forces causes wrinkling.
release their solvents and set up at the same rate as the surface layer, which results in wrinkling.
enamel can cause wrinkling.
shrink before sublayers have released their solvents. This results in abnormal surface drying and wrinkling
in uneven patterns.

Improper or rapid change in shop temperature. Drafts of warm air cause enamel top to "skin" or set up and

Preventing Wrinkling
Allow proper drying time for undercoats and topcoats. When force drying alkyd enamel, baking additive is
required to retard surface setup until the lower layers harden. Lesser amounts can be used in hot weather.
Read and carefully follow product instructions.

Do not use too many topcoats. Allow sufficient flash and drying times. Select the proper reducer and avoid using incompatible materials such as a reducer with lacquer products or thinner with enamel products.

Schedule painting to avoid temperature extremes or rapid temperature changes.


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## jerryz (Jun 4, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *Another Short Update, and Why I Hate Spray Paint*
> 
> So, I thought everything was going along great, things were looking good… then this happened on several pieces after spray painting after the primer coat:
> 
> ...


Jimi.

Sometime oils will penetrate the metal surface and prevent the paint to stick, remember that all surfaces as solid as they look are none the less porous, if there was rust there, then that will also increase the porosity, making the absorbtion of an unwanted oil more likely.

Judicious cleaning and degreasing and sometimes sanding the surface will cure the troublesome spot.

Keep at it.

And have fun, the journey to get there is certainly something to enjoy as much as the end result.


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *Another Short Update, and Why I Hate Spray Paint*
> 
> So, I thought everything was going along great, things were looking good… then this happened on several pieces after spray painting after the primer coat:
> 
> ...


Thanks, that's very helpful. I think I'm guilty of laying it on too thick, so I'm trying to give short little sprays to prevent that from happening. I'm also going to try and allow more time to dry - I had given the primer about 12 hours to dry, but maybe that wasn't enough considering cooler temperatures over night. I just started using my 500W halogens to try and help dry it quicker, so I don't think drying it too quickly was the issue.

I'm going to let everything I've painted dry for a day, and continue using the halogens to help it cure. I just have to control my urge to get a perfect coat on the first time - multiple thin coats appears to be the way to go.


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## marcb (May 5, 2008)

Jimi_C said:


> *Another Short Update, and Why I Hate Spray Paint*
> 
> So, I thought everything was going along great, things were looking good… then this happened on several pieces after spray painting after the primer coat:
> 
> ...


Wash with mineral spirits then wash with acetone and wear nitrile gloves while doing it.

The wrinkling may have just been you put a 2nd coat on after the window for applying the 2nd coat. If you miss the short early window you have to wait until its fully cured to hit it again.


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## Dennisgrosen (Nov 14, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *Another Short Update, and Why I Hate Spray Paint*
> 
> So, I thought everything was going along great, things were looking good… then this happened on several pieces after spray painting after the primer coat:
> 
> ...


I second marcb
you allso have to have 21degrees celcius (I don´t know what in farhenheit)
when you paint and during dryingtime

Dennis


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *Another Short Update, and Why I Hate Spray Paint*
> 
> So, I thought everything was going along great, things were looking good… then this happened on several pieces after spray painting after the primer coat:
> 
> ...


@marcb: I think you nailed it. I think I'm waiting too long, but then not long enough. I've been letting the paint dry for a few hours before doing another coat, not realizing that spray enamel has that short of a time between coatings. I'll definitely do touch-ups much sooner from now on, and I won't do anything else with the ones I've painted for a couple of days. I may even bake them at 100-150 for a little while to make sure they're fully cured.


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *Another Short Update, and Why I Hate Spray Paint*
> 
> So, I thought everything was going along great, things were looking good… then this happened on several pieces after spray painting after the primer coat:
> 
> ...


I'll bet the halogen lights are driving the finish to skin over, and the paint underneath is still wet. Getting the finish hot (especially on metal) can cause this. Just let it flash off normally. If this happened before you were using halogen lights, you're putting on too much paint. I just finished a couple of totes for my boutique wood and the stains and finishes, and the first coat of Varathane (it's leftovers that I'm using up) took 12 hours to dry. I normally use nitrocellulose lacquer. I have no wrinkle issues with that, I have more trouble staying ahead of the flash-to-dry while I'm brushing it on…so I usually spray it.


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *Another Short Update, and Why I Hate Spray Paint*
> 
> So, I thought everything was going along great, things were looking good… then this happened on several pieces after spray painting after the primer coat:
> 
> ...


Yeah it happened before I started using the halogens, so I believe it was a combo of using too much and then following it up with a top coat after too much time had passed (but before it had fully cured).


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## marcb (May 5, 2008)

Jimi_C said:


> *Another Short Update, and Why I Hate Spray Paint*
> 
> So, I thought everything was going along great, things were looking good… then this happened on several pieces after spray painting after the primer coat:
> 
> ...


I actually get the metal hot with halogens and hit it with Ace brand rattle cans. Never had a finish fail that way. 2 coats primer, 1 light coat spray followed by 1/2 the max wait time and 2 more thick coats at just within the wait window.

Then just set it aside for a week or more. Spray cans are thinned so bad they take forever to cure.

most of all just don't get into a rush otherwise restoring becomes a chore and you don't need another one of those.


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

*Starting Reassembly - Finally!*

I've still got some parts to paint (one more wheel, a wheel cover, and the lower guide assembly), but I started putting things back together tonight - mainly due to unease about how easy it was going to be to find the correct part/screw/whatever in the large ziplock back I've been using to hold all the small stuff. Overall, it's been easier than I thought - there really wasn't very much hardware to this machine.




























And just so you don't have to browse back, here's a reminder of what it looked like when I got it:










All the hardware was polished up with a little sand paper to remove the rust/gunk that had built up as well.

I've got all the bearings I need as well, and as you can see from the above picture I finally triumphed over that damn stubborn one that refused to come off the top axle  Now I just need to find someone with a shop press to help me get them all back on without ruining them… I plan on calling some auto parts places in the near future, once life settles back down to only medium-crazy.

Once all that's done, I just need to order some new urethane wheels for it (the wheels have a built in crown, so no rubber tires needed here), and some new blades. I'm planning on going with Timberwolf, since they sell the right size tires I need (12" diameter x 1" wide) and everyone here raves about their blades - they seem to be at a great price point as well.

Thanks for looking as always!


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## degoose (Mar 20, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *Starting Reassembly - Finally!*
> 
> I've still got some parts to paint (one more wheel, a wheel cover, and the lower guide assembly), but I started putting things back together tonight - mainly due to unease about how easy it was going to be to find the correct part/screw/whatever in the large ziplock back I've been using to hold all the small stuff. Overall, it's been easier than I thought - there really wasn't very much hardware to this machine.
> 
> ...


Looking real pretty… should be like a new one when you are finished..


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Jimi_C said:


> *Starting Reassembly - Finally!*
> 
> I've still got some parts to paint (one more wheel, a wheel cover, and the lower guide assembly), but I started putting things back together tonight - mainly due to unease about how easy it was going to be to find the correct part/screw/whatever in the large ziplock back I've been using to hold all the small stuff. Overall, it's been easier than I thought - there really wasn't very much hardware to this machine.
> 
> ...


It's looking great


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## HokieMojo (Mar 11, 2008)

Jimi_C said:


> *Starting Reassembly - Finally!*
> 
> I've still got some parts to paint (one more wheel, a wheel cover, and the lower guide assembly), but I started putting things back together tonight - mainly due to unease about how easy it was going to be to find the correct part/screw/whatever in the large ziplock back I've been using to hold all the small stuff. Overall, it's been easier than I thought - there really wasn't very much hardware to this machine.
> 
> ...


This is very inspirational. I've got a jointer restoration coming up. It is only about 16 yrs old but was stored in a shed with a dirt floor. your saw looks to be in similar shape to my jointer. I'm anxious to get it up and running. Keep up the good work. It looks great.


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## SRichieR (Sep 10, 2010)

Jimi_C said:


> *Starting Reassembly - Finally!*
> 
> I've still got some parts to paint (one more wheel, a wheel cover, and the lower guide assembly), but I started putting things back together tonight - mainly due to unease about how easy it was going to be to find the correct part/screw/whatever in the large ziplock back I've been using to hold all the small stuff. Overall, it's been easier than I thought - there really wasn't very much hardware to this machine.
> 
> ...


OK, so now I'm inspired. I have a 12" Atlas 912 that my Grandfather bought new and gave to me just before he died in about 1986. As a college student at the time, I just didn't have a place for it so it's been in storage ever since. 
I think mine is a little newer than the one shown here, but, not much. It is gray instead of green. Relatively good shape. Needs a good cleaning up, tire and blade, but, I might just do it up right with a complete rebuild as done here.
Thanks for the great inspiration.


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *Starting Reassembly - Finally!*
> 
> I've still got some parts to paint (one more wheel, a wheel cover, and the lower guide assembly), but I started putting things back together tonight - mainly due to unease about how easy it was going to be to find the correct part/screw/whatever in the large ziplock back I've been using to hold all the small stuff. Overall, it's been easier than I thought - there really wasn't very much hardware to this machine.
> 
> ...


Yeah they switched to gray after Atlas bought them in '49 or so, so yours is probably from the early-mid 1950's. Somewhere around that time, they took the Power King name off it and they were just called Atlas 912's. If it's original, it probably at least needs new bearings, depending on how much your grandfather abused it. The wheels on mine spun well, but when I took it apart I realized how beat up the bearings were - they barely spun freely on their own. Anyway, good luck


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

*So Close...*

Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.

Once again - the before:










And now the after:




























As you can tell from the second pic, I haven't gotten the lower axle/bearings back on it yet - same for the upper wheel. I did try freezing the axle to see if that'd let me press the axle in easily enough - didn't seem to give it enough - so I'm going to have to find someone with a bearing/arbor press to help me get the wheels back on this sucker. I didn't try heating up the bearings/casing first, so maybe that'd be enough to help get it in - I may try it some day the wife isn't home 

Anyway, I'm really happy with the way it's coming out - and even more happy to be done masking and spraying tiny little parts. The paint job is far from perfect - paint's already chipping on the trunion where the washer for the knob to secure the table rubs against it - but I think it's good enough to protect it for many years to come.

I'm going to order the blade and wheels from Suffolk Machinery sometime this week, so hopefully the next update on this restoration will be the absolute last. It may be down the road a ways though, we're selling our house and will be moving in a few weeks, so I may not have time to get it all done before I have to start packing up the shop. That's the downside to this, it sucks that I may have to wait a month to be able to fire this up and start resawing boards :-/


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


That puppy looks fantastic. great job.


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## DrewM (Mar 10, 2010)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


Excellent work, I'm sure it will serve you well


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## Popsnsons (Mar 28, 2010)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


Looks 100% better. Nice work to bring it back to life.


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys, just got done uploading the info to OWWM


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


Nice job Jimi. I love seeing tools get a new lease on life such as you have done here. You should be proud of your efforts. The saw looks really good.


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## donjoe (Feb 6, 2010)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


You did a great job on the redo. Really looks nice.


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## FJDIII (Dec 20, 2007)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


WOW!!!!!


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## twokidsnosleep (Apr 5, 2010)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


She looks really beautiful and will serve you longer than any bandsaw made today.
Well done making this saw gorgeous again.
They don't make 'em like this anymore


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## Briansey (Jul 8, 2010)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


Hi there. I am new to your site and was facinated by your progress on the Atllas bandsaw. I have one that I have been meaning to get to and as yet have not. Now we are also moving and am thinking of selling it. Do you have any idea what she might be worth. She is a Atlas Power King Model 912 serial no 13965 and has no motor. Thanks guys


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


@Briansey: I paid $100 for mine, which included the motor (1/2HP I believe, I forget as I haven't checked it in a while). It was in functioning condition, even though obviously it need a lot of renovation to be in top shape (otherwise with the shot bearings I probably would have been replacing the blade often). That Atlas models are a bit newer - they bought PowerKing in 1949, and essentially just rebranded many of their tools like the 912.

So, I'd say anywhere from $50-100 would be what you should look at selling it for. That is typically the price range I've seen when people mention what they bought theirs for on sites like OWWM.


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## Briansey (Jul 8, 2010)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


Thanks so much Jimi_C, I really appreciate your comments. All the best with yours


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## sanktf (Jul 12, 2010)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


Hi Brian,

I read your comment and thought that your serial number was similar to that of the saw I got yesterday. I checked and it was the same. I reread the comment about 10 times until I looked at your user name. The world is so small! Anyway, thanks for the saw.


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## Jimi_C (Jul 17, 2009)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


Nah, that seems the right color for an Atlas branded machine. Powerking's were kind of a sea-green color, as seen in the original pic (I didn't try to match it and just painted mine bright hunter green). All of the Atlas band saws I see on OWWM are the blue color you describe.


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## sanktf (Jul 12, 2010)

Jimi_C said:


> *So Close...*
> 
> Painted the last piece today, so here it is in all (or at least most) of it's assembled glory.
> 
> ...


Sorry, I accidentally removed the question about mine being blue that Jimi replied to.


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