# Doug Fir Roman Workbench/Low Bench in Living Space



## livewire516 (Oct 13, 2018)

I've made a 'Roman' workbench out of a 6ft length of 2.5"x11.5" of some knotty softwood scrap (presumably Doug Fir) with Ash legs.










Since I move frequently for work, I plan as if I am an apartment woodworker (even though I currently have a basement/garage/yard). I say that because I expect that *this'll serve double duty as a workbench & coffee table* at some point in the near future.

*What finish would you recommend?* I appreciate anytime you try to serve two distinct goals, you'll be making some compromises. My main constraint is that *I'll need to wipe it on or use a rattle-can as I don't have access to a sprayer*. Since it'll be a work surface, I will not be afraid to take a plane/abrasive to it every so often but I'm hoping for modest stain resistance. Realistically, I'm only looking at this to have a 5-10 yr life (I expect I'll attempt to make a better replacement in 1-2 years, so realistically I'll get to it in the next decade or so).

In terms of preferences, I'd like to minimize yellowing - in fact, my first instinct was to either bleach or whitewash the Doug Fir to bring it somewhere closer to the Ash Legs, then a water-based poly for a cloudier cast (but perhaps only one coat as to retain some grip on the work surface).


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## kaerlighedsbamsen (Sep 16, 2013)

That is a no-brainer: Soap finish for sure! No yellowing, safe, easy to apply, no problem planing it down, feels silky smooth and looks great


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Traditional Soap Finish, with Christopher Schwarz






Interesting finish, thanks kaerlighedsbamsen!


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

For a film based minwax polycrylic or the GF waterbased topcoat. For oil can do pure tung oil mixed with citrus solvent. The soap finish doesn't hold up well nor provide much protection from anything.


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## livewire516 (Oct 13, 2018)

Thanks for the input so far. I actually have used soap finish before (in fact I have a jar of the recipe from that video already prepared) but I agree with SMP: it won't accomplish what I'm looking for.

I've read Tung Oil yellows less than BLO; I'm actually considering buying raw linseed oil and sun-bleaching it (as artists long had for oil-based paints), for a supposedly less yellowing drying oil.


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

> Thanks for the input so far. I actually have used soap finish before (in fact I have a jar of the recipe from that video already prepared) but I agree with SMP: it won t accomplish what I m looking for.
> 
> I ve read Tung Oil yellows less than BLO; I m actually considering buying raw linseed oil and sun-bleaching it (as artists long had for oil-based paints), for a supposedly less yellowing drying oil.
> 
> - livewire516


I actually buy raw linseed oil at Blick, the really light one and boil it myself(Wood by Wright has a good video of it on youtube) I find it doesn't yellow as much as the chemical BLO. But yeah real tung oil doesnt yellow much at all. The positive of the blo is it dries faster then tung oil, unless you put japan drier in the tung oil.


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## TraditionallySpeakin (Feb 9, 2019)

Have you gotten any further with this? I am in the middle of exactly the same type project and can't believe I found someone else in the same situation! I am about to start building a living space workbench. It will be one of my first staked projects so I'm a bit weary to start my compound mortises.

I am picking up a green 13/4 Red Oak slab 10"W x 8'L from the mill next week. I'm having it S2S and having them cut some 2" square dry oak stock down for me for legs. I wanted to rive the slab myself but don't have the time right now.

I have tried sun bleaching my own BLO in the past but never had much luck. I've had some in the window sill for over a year that hasn't changed much at all. I started with raw oil and refined myself to remove some of the fats. I didn't use sand (Only water) as I have seen suggested so perhaps that's why.

I was going to go with some BLO myself and still may but I'm not sure. I have actually been toying with the idea of giving it an iron acetate stain first. This might look better in my living space and also it will be sort of a tribute to the original Sallasburg well bench which was stained black from rust. If I go that route yellowing won't be an issue.


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## livewire516 (Oct 13, 2018)

Admittedly no, I became preoccupied with present-making. Although that hasn't stopped me from using the bench, which has been great.

So I intend to use a two-part bleach, then a single coat of water based poly and forgo any sort of drying oil. Although the white cast WBP is known for is generally considered undesirable, I think it'll suit the ghostly appearance of bleached Doug Fir.

Very cool. I had at one point considered ebonizing the whole bench, then planing the work surface to keep it lighter for visibility. I think it would be quite dramatic. Post a link here to your build thread if you have one or feel free to reply with your project updates!


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## TraditionallySpeakin (Feb 9, 2019)

Sorry, I have no idea why these photos are rotated or how to fix it!

My update is that I built a set of very small 2×6 I-beam saw horses and have my slab resting on them. We are in the process of moving and so at first I did this as a temporary idea out of practicality but now that I've worked with it I am thinking that I may never stake legs into it. Ive seen similar Japanese benches so maybe they were on to something.

On Wednesday I used my hand brace and bored 10 peg holes. Today I cut a 4×2 notch for wedging. I've already had some luck figuring out some primitive work holding techniques of my one. One I figured out today I am calling a "pedal vise". I'll link a picture but basically its a rope run through the peg holes and terminated on a scrap board that I angle up like a fuel pedal. When you push down on the pedal it clamps the work.


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## livewire516 (Oct 13, 2018)

Very cool! Thanks for sharing


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