# Just delivered Harvey C-14



## tvrgeek

Post two. Assembled. Piece of cake. Used my engine hoist to lift it to put the feet on it. If you had an assistant, you could probably walk it off the pallet and just tilt to get the feet on. Had to use a floor jack to hold the motor up to get it over the belt mostly because I am old weak guy. Well greased.

So far I have only two suggestions for Harvey. First would be to put a ring eye on the top for lifting. Easier than rigging a sling as I did. Second, I suggest the sequence of instructions be changed to put the motor on first before the table just so you would have more room to not bump your head. Really, if you need instructions to put it together, you probably should not be using one. It is that simple.

OK maybe a third. The lower door came loose in shipping and one of the little plastic hinge spacers did not make it. So maybe one more suggestion is a bit of tape on the doors or an extra first pass with the saran wrap.

I will get some wheels for it in the future. Base is drilled at the back for an axle and wheels. It has a couple threaded bosses on the front I imagine is for some sort of front wheel/lift.

Still highly impressed. Tomorrow: Change the 30 A socket to a 20 , rig a dust hose and fire it up! Today, well it calls for a pint of liquid bread.


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## xedos

can't wait to hear how it cuts .


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## tvrgeek

As the gentleman on TV would say, "It will cut"

First cuts.
Thicker strip cut by hand. Thinner strip with the fence. I have made no "tuning" adjustments other than a quick "hone" on the back edge of the band. Still get a "tic-tic" as the weld goes by.

Trivial assembly fault, the tension pointer was not in the shelf. Simple fix. No biggie. 
Upper trunnion is stiff. You need to get some tension on the blade for it to move with the tracking control. Only a nuisance when putting on the first blade. The lock knob seemed to be snugged bu a 2-ton ape. Lower wheel brush needed adjusting to the tire. 
Another minor users manual issue, the lower guides have only one thumb knob locks both side guides. Manual says " adjust as the top." which has two. I have to tilt the table to get my big pawl on the knob to lock the rear bearing guide. Really easy to set. No movement at all as you lock them down. Finally, easy guides.

Interesting design choice. The power switch is on the BACK side of the saw. I have to think about that. Maybe if resawing, they expect you to end up of the far side? 
My thinner bands from sawblades.com have not got here yet, so can't say anything about curves. *So far, it is everything I hoped for.* Now to go rig some temporary dust collection as again, waiting on delivery of some hose. .


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## tvrgeek

Update 3. Getting into the weeds.
One little problem with manufacturing. Inside the lower door there is a bracket where some brands have an insert block. It sticks out too far and kissed the band. A quick touch up with an angle grinder and all is well, but this I will report. Don't think it hurt the band as I can still split a pencil line by hand.

Parallel of the guide post is off a few thou. It is adjustable, so I will make that dead on. It does seem to be consistent, but until it is in line, can't be positive.

Next little defect. The table is really flat, until you put in the bolt to keep the slot flat. It pulls it about 2 thou out. Again, I'll report this. Measured thickness of the table on both sides of the clamp slot and sure enough, off by a couple of thou. Again, nothing I can't tweak with a hone.

Observation: Putting my table saw miter block on, the front edge of the table is square, where table saws have a bit of a ramp so the gauge catches on the edge. Before I grind a ramp on it, I will think a bit. Could be just a bit of teflon tape in the slot is a better fix. I use an Osbourn on my TS, so the Ridgid miter is available for the BS.

Flipped the power switch around. Seems it was just mounted for shipping. Did not see a comment in the instructions.

Changing the fence from high to low involves unclamping it so the adjustment goes away. I think rather than changing the fence position, I'll just use a secondary fence when cutting very thin stock with the fence. What I did not like is the fence position lock is just a bolt and the tip is rough. Already put a ding in the rail post. I pulled it out honed it to a smoother rounded end. A better design would have a leaf in there to protect it or a soft tip on the bolt. Nylon tip bolts are available, so I'll search for one.

Spring catch on the insert is fiddly to clip. I think it just needs a bit of a twist on the ends. Insert adjusted very flush.

Still a happy camper.


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## Rodwolfy

I was wondering if you'd gotten this yet. Thanks for the update! 16" our 18", cost + shipping?


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## tvrgeek

It is the 14 inch, Ambassador C-14. Lift gate shipping was free and as I mentioned, no tax unless you live in California where their office is. Just say your home is your business. Visit their site for prices. Listed price is the total cost I paid. https://www.harveywoodworking.com/collections/bandsaws

THey do not sell a 16 or 18 under their brand. They may make them OEM, no idea. They make an industrial 15 inch for a lot more. Even heavier, bigger table etc.

Hooked up dust collection. With only my old Delta to compare it to, I am highly impressed. Can't compare to other competitive saws though.


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## RobS888

We ordered a 14 inch Jet 2 weeks back, can't wait to get it.


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## tvrgeek

I provided several recommendations to improve their owners manual and reported the little details I found. 
A couple packaging issues. Small. 
Flange hitting the blade, easily fixed, and the fix I am about to do where the clamp pulls the table off flat, not to it. Should be easy. Fence lock bolt is rough and will dent the rail. Needs to be a brass or nylon tip bolt.

I can cut a 1/16 slab off a 6×6 free hand splitting the pencil line. Not too shabby! Still leaving it at 5 stars.


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## tvrgeek

Spent the entire day trying to fine tune the guide post travel. It came pretty good, but it is adjustable, so why not perfect? Got it better but what a fight. Typical hole clearances were not enough so clamp bolts binding, messed up threads etc. A bit of carbide bit work, chase the threads and workable. I got front to back tilt dead on. Got the twist dead on, provided you help it a little to lock centered. I am still about a mm tilted side to side. I think it can be better, but going to go from here while I make some sawdust.

Brake shoe is bedding is, do it works a bit smoother and quicker. Handy.


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## Rodwolfy

Well, they can't spend too much time at the factory getting it perfect… It looks way beefier than my Jet Pro 14". Those wheels are great. I noticed the thick casting on the bottom one in your earlier posts.

Take some more photos and post them; maybe horizontal, so they don't flip. I'd like to see the back. I looked at their website and as you said, it needs some work. I didn't see that it had any internal switches on the doors. Having the foot brake and extra rigidity would be worth it over my Jet. It looks similar to their 15", but I can't say what the extra $1500 would be for, unless the table is plated with real gold.

14" of resaw, too. My Grizzly 21" that I just got only has 14.5". It looks like the post is set up about the same; however, it looks like Harvey redid the bearings/holder, as the upper bearing has a guard covering the front of it.


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## tvrgeek

No switches in the doors. 
They did not offer a dolly. I am going to add a fixed axle in the back as it has the holes for it, then put a single retractable caster foot on the front. It has some threaded inserts already there to use to brace a front wheel on.

They all look about the same, as they are all about the same. Not too many different ways to do it. The basics were worked out back when they had water-wheel driven overhead shafts.

Camera and my computer do some funny things. Sometimes the pictures flip, sometimes they don't.

For $1300 at my front door, I don't mind a few tweeks. A bit of foil tape on the table lock bolt was all it took to have it not pull off-flat. I wil work on the guide post some more. Factory did not adjust it perfectly and they knew it as the lock down bolts for the assembly were binding against the frame. I think the correct solution is the bottom corner of the support block should be radiused to clear the weld. If so, it could drop a couple mm and then the holes would be closer. Not sure if I want to pull the wheel and take it apart totally, but we shall see. It is rigid enough that if tuned dead on, it should keep bearing alignment over the full length. As I intend it to be my last saw, it is worth the effort. My magnetic light is not bright or focused enough, so I wil pick up a different one. I need lots of light.

All this fiddling, if I were to design a saw, I think I would have the guide post with a V-slot in it for the lock, not a flat side. It would be more consistent in keeping the rotational alignment. I would make the trunion taller so big fat fingers could reach into the guides easier. The C-14 trunnion is pretty beefy, but the Laguna is even bigger.

If I paid $3500 for the Powermatic and it needed tweaking, then I would be unhappy!

Throat plate is a bit of a big opening. Already had a few small bits fly through, so I will make up come tighter ones out of plastic.

Picture shows the bolts that were binding on the post lock down. T-slot is on the back of the fence, so to put on a tall fence would take some reconfig. ( or drill a couple of holes. )

Darn pictures, right side up on my desktop! Oh well, deal with it.


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## Rodwolfy

No, You're right. It's a very good value at $1300, with the nice fence, 3 hp motor, cast iron trunions, for brake and switches. Well worth the $500 over what I paid for my Jet!


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## tvrgeek

I thought so. Jet is a good tool, but this one is a tank. The $2000 Rikon and Lagunas are also really really sweet tools. Had I not found this ( help from a forum member) I might have bought the SUV.


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## Rodwolfy

Ya, I'm the one that posted about Harvey & seeing this on Stumpy Nubs.


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## tvrgeek

Again my thanks. Happy camper.


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## roofner

Looks like a heavy duty machine.


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## tvrgeek

So, with the supplied 3/4 blade, it could cut dead strait. Against fence or free hand. To prove a point ( that's my story and I an sticking to it) I just kissed a hidden nail in an ax handle I was trying to fix. I mean just kissed. Well, turned it into a circle cutter. Put on my new sawblades.com 3/8 blade and back to ripping some green 6 inch logs. Strait as can be.

In other words, saw is doing just fine. Guess I had better add a metal detector to my next Amazon order and get a new resaw blade.

I have nothing to compare it to, but not impressed with dust collection.


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## Rodwolfy

> I have nothing to compare it to, but not impressed with dust collection.
> 
> - tvrgeek


Yes, it looks like the only dust port is at the bottom?

Maybe try a Rob Cosman type port under the table, if there's room?


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## tvrgeek

No, two ports. One right below the guides and it even has two extra shields. Ports have grills in them which are removable. Running to a 1 3/4 Jet collector.


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## tvrgeek

I posted a review on the Harvey site last week. It is not publiched on their WEB. Maybe they are busy, maybe because it was not perfect. Going to contact them again this week for the hinge spacer.


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## tvrgeek

Sent an e-mail asking for the missing door hinge washer. Came right away. THey even tossed in a handful of procedure masks!


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## tvrgeek

I have had it long enough now I ignore it. Just use it. Seems like about every other day I cut something. No issues, newness wore off, Damaged my 3/4 inch band by my mistake. Bummer as it worked quite well.

Actually unusually handy as my TS/outfeed is my main workbench, so I don't have to clear off a project just for something simple.

So going forward, no news is good news.


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## AnotherJim

I enjoyed your review. I've been looking at bandsaws, and you made me look at the Harvey website. They give a price of $1699 plus $289 shipping. You got yours for $1300; how?


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## tvrgeek

Just checked. Seems they did just go up. I wonder, POTUS just removed the special trade status with Hong Kong. Almost everything from China exited through Hong Kong to avoid tariffs. Might give them a call. Could be with everyone home, demand was high and they decides they were too underpriced.

When I got mine, free shipping was to a business. Well, everyone's home is where they do their business. Again. maybe the situation has changed.


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## Scott_C

They just announced free shipping until 6-24, still a bummer about the price increase on the saw it's self. Even at $1699 it's still competitive compared to other saws in that market segment.


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## T2T

Since Harvey manufacturers for other OEM I would be willing to bet the Laguna mobility kit for the 14/12 would fit your Harvey ??


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## tvrgeek

Still loving it. As far as mobility, I am way too cheap to buy "kits". I have a couple of steel wheels, a bit of bar and rear wheels easy. I have a retractable caster I can out on the front. Have not moved it yet so I have not bothered to put the wheels on.


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## Matt_R

Purchased this saw last week and will arrive on Monday. 
Glad to hear you got good feedback from Harvey. I've emailed them 3 times, messaged on Instagram twice, and filled out their message form on their website asking questions about this saw and still haven't heard back.

Anyway, was wondering what type of plug the saw came with? I'm trying to setup my 240 volt outlet and want to make sure I buy the right one.

Didn't happen to shoot a video of any of that setup, did you?


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## T2T

I also just got a Harvey c14 delivered two days ago. Just finished setting up alignment. Thanks to tvrgeek for his input. It helped a lot in my decision. I did want to ask you, tvrgeek, if you had to tap new holes to move the switch to the other side of the post? Mine is also on the wrong side and I know you said it was there for transportation but there is certainly nothing in the instructions and there are no threaded holes on the opposite side of the column.. I will post comments and photos in the next few days. Thanks again tvrgeek!


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## Gus_Gus

I too purchased this saw because of James Hamilton. Laguna's 14BX was my top candidate until Stumpy added the C14 to my product research list.

My single experience with their customer service would suggest it is a bit sluggish, however I feel the quality is exceptional. I purchased my bandsaw with urgency, I didn't contact anyone at Harvey to answer any questions. The responsible person in me just vanished.

A day after purchase cleared payment, I emailed customer service as a generic customer with a few questions and signed it with my proper name. A week later, I got a response first thanking me for my purchase of a C14 bandsaw and then answered all my questions. I am quite satisfied and very hopefully this type of service continues.

*Matt_R, the plug is a N6-20P.* I too purchased the C14 wondering what the plug is.


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## DaveMills

Happy to find a couple Harvey BS owners - there's so little info on them. In comparing the C14 to the HW615, I'm surprised to see a rather short list of upgrades, for the additional $1150 cost. The 615 has a nicer fence, a larger table, and then I'm sort of guessing (because I can't find any pics of the back of the C14) that the C14 is not as "finished" on the back (maybe not painted blue, maybe not all the chrome wheels and knobs?).

Would any of you have a pic of the back of the C14, and care to summarize any other significant differences between the two models?


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## tvrgeek

Well, for TWICE the price, I assume a bigger saw. Not sure what upgrades one might want. 
Back is finished. 
Harvey US footprint seems to only be a couple of folks. COVOD is making a lot of communication difficult.










Still a happy camper. I still have not taken it apart to tweak the upper guide way to absolutely in line.


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## DaveMills

> Well, for TWICE the price, I assume a bigger saw. ...


Thanks for the reply and the pic, tvrgeek. The motor is the same on the larger saw, but yes 15" wheels so it gains an inch in throat depth. But it seems like a lot of extra money for a rather short list of upgrades.

I'm glad you like the machine. I'm not usually one to be such an early adopter, but I'm tempted.


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## Andygulfcoast

I just ordered the C14 and I expect to receive it next week.

It seems from your review I can expect to be satisfied with the included 3/4" blade for my currently intended purposes (sub-6" resaw).

Has anyone added a light? Does it include a plug to facilitate light installation?


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## tvrgeek

I use a little magnetic base LED light. No 120V outlet.

Factory blade worked well until I hit a nail.


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## HarveyIndustriesIntl

Thanks for the review, @Tvrgeek


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## JoeRoa

I just ordered my Ambassador C14 from Harvey. I really appreciate the review and pictures. I was a bit concerned that the truck would drop it in my driveway and I would have trouble getting it in my shop. but seems that I can haul the table and motor separately and that will help to lighten up the crate considerably.

Looking forward to getting this into production.
Thanks again for sharing your tips, experience and satisfaction.


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## tvrgeek

Got mine in on a hand cart. Still loving mine and I have not even taken the upper guide out to trim the corner so it is more perfect. One of these days. Happy enough I am really looking at a C300 table saw. Kind of half and half on their dust collection, or a big Oneida.


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## JoeRoa

I was looking at the G-700 dust processor to replace my home rigged Harbor Frieght next year. Looks amazing.


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## tvrgeek

So was I, but please go read all of what Bill Pentz has to say. It may not be as powerful as we need. 
An idea I has was it would fit under my outfeed table so the dust would be only a couple of feet. But I wind up with the same mess trying to get to my band saw and miter saw.

Doing some fab work on the miter saw station so I can see if my baby 1 1/2 HP jet is anywhere near enough. Good possibility I wil be going to a 3 HP Onieda.


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## JoeRoa

I was thinking 1600 CFM would be plenty for my small shop (2 car garage), I can use a small ryobi shop vac at a couple small tool stations (one tool application). The Ryobi very quiet but will require more frequent dumping. My modified Harbor freight 2-stage is very loud and very weak. I need to find something, but I will check the Pentz post so thanks for pointing me to it. Not sure I want to thro 2600$ at it.


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## Herbb

Recently, i was able to inspect comparable rikon, jet, and powermatic saws. One thing that impressed me was how smoothly the blade guard on the PM moved, and how solid it felt when tightened in position. Made the other two look like cheap impersonators.
How solid does the harvey unit feel? How are the adjustment wheels?
I've seen a few folks saying "thanks for the pics" but there aren't really any good shots posted other than of the guides, which i appreciate.


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## tvrgeek

What pictures would you like? I pictured the guides as that was the deciding factor for me between the Rikon, Laguna and Harvey. (Jet and Griz were not even close to be in the running)

I am sure ( hope) the PM1500 is a little smoother in all respects as it is twice the price. I did not look at as it was above my budget. I still have no complaints, but my only comparison was the benchtop Delta I had and even a HF would have been an improvement.

Waiting on a ClearView 5 HP cyclone system. New Harvey C300 table saw all set up.


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## DaveMills

> Recently, i was able to inspect comparable rikon, jet, and powermatic saws. One thing that impressed me was how smoothly the blade guard on the PM moved, and how solid it felt when tightened in position. Made the other two look like cheap impersonators.
> How solid does the harvey unit feel? How are the adjustment wheels?


I ended up with the Harvey HW615, which is closer in price to the Powermatic (I assume you're referring to the PM1500), so maybe a more appropriate comparison. Unfortunately I don't have the Powermatic to compare to, but I do have a nice 8" Powermatic jointer to compare fit and finish. The build quality of the two is very comparable. The steel case is heavier gauge on the bandsaw, the polished wheels on the bandsaw wiggle less, the cast iron on the jointer of course makes it feel more solid, the fence on the bandsaw is very nice - but I'd say both feel like a similar build quality. If you painted the Harvey yellow, you could mistake it for a Powermatic product.


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## Woodn88s

I like the Harvey c14 bandsaw and would buy it but the $349 shipping fee to Louisville is a big stop sign for me.
The jet 14 sfx will be on sale 3/25/2021 for $1080.
The Harvey 14" is $1399 plus $349 shipping coming in at $1750.
If it wasnt for the shipping I'd go for the Harvey, but that's just me.


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## tvrgeek

Your choice, but a few dollars difference for a lifetime tool may not be the best choice. 
1 3/4 HP vs 3HP so not exactlly in the same class. Stamped steel trunnion vs cast iron, difference in guides etc. I am sure it is a fine saw, but in my searching, it came in a 4th behind Harvey, Rikon and Laguna. It was at least in the running!

There have been a few reports of upper block issues. Can't point directly to them, but might do some searching. The Rikon 10-326 is the most similar and I believe they will go on sale very soon too. Rikon and Jet seem to match sale periods. It too is on sale $1019. I was considering the 10-353 which is their 3 HP and a bit more expensive or the Laguna 14BX 2.5 HP All good machines. Tough decision.

There is a lot in common between all the brands as there are only a few actual OEMs and I believe even fewer foundries.


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## AtlasRearden

Hello All, I started following this thread because I just unpackaged a new Harvey C14 in my garage and am trying to get it figured out. Has anyone else gotten the companion mobile base that Harvey sells? Did you still just put on the included feet and then put it on the mobile base or did you try to bolt it to the base somehow? It's not exactly intuitive the way both components are set up.

Does anyone know what these two threaded bolt holes in the middle of the base are for? I don't see any reference to them in the instruction manual:

__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content










Also, how have people managed to move the power switch? In the pictures on Harvey's website, the switch is mounted to the back of the frame, pointed at the saw's entry side. But mine is mounted on the side of the frame on the saw exit side.


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## tvrgeek

Switch is there for shipping. There are screw holes to mount it on the side along with the rack for Allen wrenches. 
I used the Bora wheels. They have their own feet. 
Holes are unused for my saw. Don't know how the Harvey wheels mount
Added a pegboard hood for a miter gauge


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## AtlasRearden

Ah, regarding the switch, I overlooked the portion of the instructions that reference turning it around. In case anyone else is looking for it, it's in Section 7 of the instructions:

"*7.1 Switch*
For convenient packaging and transportation, the electrical box is at the back of the machine.
Loosen the two screws (S) before use, turn the electrical box face to the front and lock the
two screws (S), Refer to figure 17."


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## EarlS

I'll be reading this review thread again as needed once my C-14 shows up. It was on sale (24% off Easter Sale) but no free shipping so it still wound up in the $1700 range. I didn't order the mobile base. I'm going to try to use the Bora base that I bought for the little WEN BS.

Thanks for all of the detailed and candid information. I've never had a big bandsaw like this.


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## jayoh

I've owned many bandsaws over the course of a near 50-year woodworking career. 24" 5-hp Poitras, 27" 7 hp Wadkin; both of which were 3 phase 600V. A 14" Steel City, then the over-rated 14" Rikon and am awaiting delivery of the 14" Harvey machine. I chose it over the Laguna which also looks like a great machine. The Halifax, NS dealer said that Harvey exaggerates their motor amperage by using peak A rather than running amperage. I've yet to see any comments in these woodworking forums on that assertion. I will report back on what I find with this Ambassador. I have a lad coming in a few hours as I continue to downsize, then rightsize this hobby shop. He's comin' after the Lagunas Universal sliding table.

I'll show some images of what I did with the Rikon later.


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## jayoh

This is my review of the 14" Rikon bandsaw that I owned for only one year. My synopsis of the machine is that it's okay but not as good as so many reviews have given it.

Below are my mods.
#1. Change the location of the power switch. I moved it up on the column as far as the motor cable will allow. Both this machine and its sister, the Record Power 14", [likely made in the same factory] have *their starter far too low*. Also, I have a beef with Rikon using blue as a start button. Cool, but not intuitive, when all other start buttons are green. Also, the stop button should be able to be slapped, not pushed into its female holder.










#2. I also added a wooden flapper paddle, since an operator should not have to look where to shut the infernal thing off, especially since these early designs had no foot brake. With my pro 600V 3-ph bandsaws, they had foot brakes, but, first the operator had to push the stop button, as micro switches were not invented, at least as far as I know, in the early 1970s and later 1980s. The upward shifting eliminated the forearm scratching on the sharp edges of the anodized fence…which is far too high. Any competent woodworker easily clamps a higher auxiliary fence for elementary resawing or ripping in place, with double side tape. The other gripe 'bout the fence, was that it had to be more fully "opened" via the securing knobs, otherwise it would not slide in and out. They could've supplied vaseline eh lads?! 










I'm aware, that with these major mods the warrantee was voided. My personal safety and the ease of operation became far more critical.

#3. I put the storage cabinet for extra blades etc, on the back of the machine. I immediately saw that going in to that space at the front was an instant headbanger for this elder. I'm well into my 70s and noticing the decline…slowly…hahaha of all faculties. It's normal ageing.










#4. I added a metric, self-adhesive fabric rule to the table front edge, setting it as close as possible, using a 1/2" blade. I converted to metric only in 2016 when I manufactured all the 22 interior solid poplar doors for this passive solar house. Each weighed over 37 k/80 lbs., since they are 44mm/1-3/4" thick. The round fence rail was only marked out in Imperial for stateside consumption, with no regard for the metric conversion here in Canada, since the early 1970s. No more dividing of fractions! I use the Downunder Aussie method of whole numbers, where no matter the measurement in the shop [only] *that is expressed in millimetres*, not centimetres nor decimetres.










#5. I added a 2" thick pine extension table to the right hand side of the machine, utilizing the twin factory holes already drilled there. The fence rod protruded past the cast iron table, becoming an instant hip smasher, since I move fairly quickly when I'm working. 'Tis all 'bout efficiency, eh what!?...as the Brits tell it. I'm allowed, since I was born there.










#6. I changed the machine over from 110V to 220V for no other reason other than the shop is wired for that voltage, plus electric motors run cooler and are more efficient on 220V.










#7. Catch the nifty little magnetic combo 110/220V LED light I got from Jeff. You know, the dude who treats his employees like dirt, gets his slave labour in while paying no taxes, both tricks he likely learned from the Walton family.










#8. I reversed the idler pulley on the ribbed belt as they are normally designed to push against the smooth part of the belt for tension. They are not designed to lift up against the ribs, where they make less contact. Check under the hood of any automobile engine.










#9. I'll finish with this caveat: the guide system is nowhere near as good as some claim. The internal springs are too strong, so there is always a pushback, when one thinks the optimum distance from the blade [a piece of normal paper @ .0002 thick] will suffice. I'm hoping that the 14" Harvey Ambassador that James Hamilton aka Stumpy Nubs introduced us to, will be superior, as their toolless guide adjustment system is on a cam and not spring-loaded. As I have aged, my muscles have atrophied somewhat and I no longer possess the strength in my fingers to tighten those Rikon knobs; the ridges on the knobs are too short. I had to use pliers and yes, that scratched the soft plastic. What ever happened to making plastic parts from nylon? hahaha I had a YT interchange with a rep from Record Power about some of these and he simply took the company line of doing things in the manner presented, since their offering looks nearly identical to the Rikon. btw, I got mine at Lee Valley Tools Halifax, NS before the price rise of several hundred $$$ Canuck.
Yes, the Harvey is hundreds more. I live alone; still love this life-long love affair with designing and making, having no other half with whom to oh-kay my purchases. I hope y'll enjoyed this review and the mods.


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## tvrgeek

#6. I believe this is an old wives tale. Same power, same efficiency. Less drop over the line but that is about it.

Maybe you should get the admin to make you a new thread as you have reviewed the Rikon, not the Harvey.


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## jayoh

You may believe whatever you wish, at least the mandates have not removed that aspect of our lives. hahaha The simple fact is that if higher voltages were not more efficient, there would be no need for them in woodworking or elsewhere in the trades. During my 33 year professional career, I've had many woodworking machines all with 600V 3-ph electrics; not one motor burned out although a few magnetic starters lost their get up and go. The EMA 630 genuine, helicoidal head planer from Italy,[circa 1984] had 3 motors. The cutterhead was powered by 15 hp. When the green button was pushed, the cutterhead was instantaneously up to speed, as were the infeed roller motor and the outfeed table roller motor.

About any "beliefs": This is what the well known Indian Sadhguru had to say; "When you use the word "belief", you are concretizing assumptions about which you may know nothing about."

btw, thanks for your suggestion on moving this post. I have done so and will await admins pleasure.


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## tvrgeek

I believe in physics. P=IR


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## 2771099

Not sure if you still follow your thread since it was back in 2013.
I'm tossing between the Laguna 14/12 BX and the Harvy Ambassador C14 and was wondering what was it that made you change your mind away from the Laguna?


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## johnotvos

If you are directing your query at me, I never owned a Laguna BS. This is more powerful than the Laguna similar BS. It also has a deeper height cutting capacity and a better guide system in my opinion. Also, I like the twin port ducting system. Hope that helps. They do not make their own machines. Laguna is a marketing outfit having asked Taiwan manufacturers for some decent designs.


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## tvrgeek

I liked the guides better. 
I would not say the dust collection is any better than any other as the upper duct is pulling from too large a space. I am working on a mod to focus vacuum right below the throat. 

If I had to, I would buy the Harvey again. For sure, I would stick with 3 HP. 

I don't know how many OEMs actually make band saws. Harvey is one. I suspect there is at least one more. I believe Laguna makes some of their top end professional saws in Italy. ( as per their WEB description) Not the pro-sumer ones we mere mortals can afford. 

Rikon, Laguna, Harvey. All great saws. 

There are advantages to three phase over single phase induction motors. Electrical reverse, back EMF braking, improved PF, and are smaller for the same HP. So for large industrial motors, cheaper to run. In a single phase, the only advantages to higher voltage is reduction in line drop or smaller gauge wire to achieve the same. The motor is just switched betwen two parellel sets of windings to two sets in series. This is for conventional induction motors as used in power tools, not the exotic hybrid motors as used in EVs. A motor running 110V @ 20 A is doing exactlly the same work as a 220V motor pulling 10A. Personally, I hate pulling 10 or 8 gauge wire so my tools run on 220.


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## johnotvos

@tvrgeek When I operated as a professional woodworker in my former glory _dayze_, all the machines, save the drill press were 600V 3 ph. They start immediately and yes, as you have correctly stated, run more efficiently and less expensively when it comes to the juice supply. In 1974, when I entered professionally, I had a 15 HP phase converter that had to be started first, before any of the machines could be run. Yes, Rikon, Laguna and Harvey are all great small shop bandsaws. However, having owned 7 BS's over that 48 year period, the Harvey is the best so far within its HP range.

As far as the dust collection works, having a duct up near the lower guide is still superior to one below the lower wheel. Having both is better still. No, they do not collect all the wood dust. That's why whisks, brooms, compressors and vacuum cleaners were invented. hahaha


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## johnotvos

tvrgeek said:


> #6. I believe this is an old wives tale. Same power, same efficiency. Less drop over the line but that is about it.
> 
> Maybe you should get the admin to make you a new thread as you have reviewed the Rikon, not the Harvey.


I did message them, but received no reply. While I dearly love commenting and posting in these user forums, the lack of contributor and reader commentary, leads one to stay in the shop and away from this keyboard. hahaha


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