# and so... i begin...



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

ive have been coming to LumberJocks for some months now, as a guest. Reading billions of posts that have helped me out alot in finding where to start, how to start, etc. I know i have the wood-bug so i best start cracking and make myself known here officially.

i like how this LumberJocks site has a project page. That will come in handy since i'm basically starting off not knowing what i'm doing correctly  my first project: since winter is near, installing my new never used bought at estate auction for $75 Reznor UDAP60 natural gas heater and insulating my 2car garage.

Due to stain damage and broken drywall garage finished ceiling, i removed all ceiling drywall. Exposing my rafters, electrical cables, natural gas feed to kitchen, etc. Thinking i was smart… i bought R-19 paper faced batts for the 24"wide 2×6 rafters and using furring strips to hold them up. Now, I understand this was a boo-boo. Going to re-drywall the garage ceiling. I "guess" i could re-use the R-19 insulation to lay between the joists ontop of the ceiling drywall and finish off with blown-in insulation to hopefully get upto the R-30+ range. Then, of course, do blown-in insulation in my 2×4walls eventually.
-eric


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## 47phord (Apr 10, 2012)

Welcome aboard! I'm kind of a newbie myself and have found this site to be invaluable. I can pretty much guaranty that no matter what question you have, there is someone here that can answer it. Good luck and have fun!


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## Sailor (Jun 17, 2009)

Welcome Eric! Glad you decided to join up and join in on the wood talk and such!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Welcome. Glad you decided to join the fun.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

That is step #1, admitting you have a problem ("got the wood-bug")!!! Welcome aboard the "Crazy Train"!!!


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## DanKrager (Apr 13, 2012)

For great insulation, consider using Nu-wool. I used it in a remodeling job I did and it far exceeded my high expectations. I was going to spray foam, but quickly dismissed that at $2000 just for the material. The paper backed fiberglass would cost almost $1000 just for the material. I don't like fiberglass wool because rodents like to nest in it, build tunnels in it, and it is not air tight and insect proof. Neither does it dampen sound very much. A local Nu-Wool installer quoted me $600 to do the job, so he got it! I am SO glad. The stuff is everything it was advertised to be. It is basically cellulose fiber (shredded paper) mixed with a moist adhesive and a Borax derivative, so when it is sprayed between the studs and scraped level with them, it looks and feels like styrofoam when it is dry. Will NOT settle. It is indeed airtight, needs no other moisture barrier, and the Borax derivative makes it inhabitable to insects and vermin. I could not believe the total sound deadening of it. We can take a shower and flush the toilet and it won't be heard outside the bathroom! I do not remember the actual R value in a 2×4 wall, but it was far higher than even the foam. Highly recommend it and I have no connection to the product.
DanK


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

We have ALL made those kind of mistakes. You learn to compensate and go on.

Welcome to LJ's


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Welcome to LumberJocks Eric!

Hold on for one heck of a fun ride my friend.
Experienced and friendly folks will help you along 
your journey.


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## benjie22 (Nov 5, 2012)

Hello! Welcome aboard. I'm a newbie here and I admit that I really like this site. Every page I click there so much to learn here. I'm amazed with all the projects that I have seen. As a newbie I have no project yet to post, because I'm still a learner. Yet, hoping that one day I can post my wood craft here. But as of now, I need to be learned more.


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## Momcanfixit (Sep 19, 2012)

Welcome! This is a great site for answers, inspiration and a few good laughs.


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## TedW (May 6, 2012)

Glad you decided to join us. LJ is way better than those other woodworking sites - a very informative bunch here, knows how to keep it on the level for the purists, yet light hearted enough for wood hacks like myself. Not to mention the projects is about the most inspiring collection of, well, projects.. that I have ever found.


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## Skylark53 (Jan 8, 2010)

Eric, I dropped in on LJs and did no research; I just came up with an ID and password and WOW, I was a LJ! This is really the best of the best woodworking sites. With the project you come on board with, you show enthusiasm and energy. No doubt, there are folks here who can advise you step by step and they actually WILL! Best wishes to you on this project and future woodworking projects. Visiting LJs will be encouraging and enlightening for you.


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## GrandpaLen (Mar 6, 2012)

Eric,

Welcome to LumberJocks , a world of advise, opinions, and experiences, all shared without judgement.

Work Safely and have Fun. - Grandpa Len.


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## DeansDust (Sep 8, 2012)

LMAO DYIaholic!
Step #1: admitting you have a problem.


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## DeansDust (Sep 8, 2012)

...oh, and welcome aboard Eric. I'm pretty new around here myself. Lot's of cool folks.


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## AnthonyReed (Sep 20, 2011)

Welcome Eric


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Dan Krager: 
I looked into the Nu-Wool. It does sound the best route for me. Except, it's not DIY and all the installers are east coast/central.

Does anyone have opinionated issues about using BOTH R-19 paper-faced batts laying on the garage ceiling drywall AND pumping in additional blow-in insulation? I'd like to use my R-19 batts for something. Considered tearing down the drywall on the walls and installing the R-19 there, but i believe i get a much better result (R-wise and such) with blown in since studs are 2×4".


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

If I understand correctly…....the paper is a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier has to go toward the heated room, and it can NOT have insulation on both sides of it. If your going to do this, remove the paper.

Stuffing 6" insulation into a 4" wall doesn't give R-19.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

i believe i have decided on drastic measures 

i will remove the 2 walls of drywall (so much for my 2 tone green/yellow paint job) to expose bare studs. from there, add in every possible electrical, phone, data outlet box (people usually forget phone/data) i can think of. buy a plexiglass 4×8 sheet, press up against studs, fill with blown-in insulation (researching "dense" packing tonite) so i can actually see how the insulation gets packed in. once some minutes pass to ensure the insulation is stable on its own, remove the plexigass, install drywall (or OSB as i'm undecided), and repeat.

for the garage ceiling, re-use my kraft faced R-19 fiberglass batts in between the trusses and staple, install drywall (or OSB…again, undecided), then blow in insulation ontop of the batts. I figure R-30 should be a good figure for a garage workshop environment.

of course… i will seal as much as i can as i go along with expanded fire-proof foam canisters for the walls.

I'm glad i found my reznor udap60 for $70 as i see lots of $$$ going into a garage workspace, just to make it warm/cool.


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## JohnAlmeyda (Apr 21, 2011)

Hey Holbs, Nice to meet you. I'm also a noob just starting to post here after visiting this page for over a year. I'm down in Las Vegas, we might be the only two woodworkers in Nevada  The woodworking community is not big here in Las Vegas, its practically non existent


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

John…that is because las vegas has no trees


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Since the dry wall is down, consider adding some 220VAC if you don't already have it!

You have the bug and you may want some higher HP tools and/or dust collection system.

I just had a branch installed in my 60 year old garage and it would have been a lot easier and cheaper without the dry wall in place.


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