# Waxing the soles of your planes



## paratrooper34 (Apr 27, 2010)

I read in another post about applying wax to the bottom of a plane's sole to help it work better. I've read in a couple of books where it was suggested to use some type of wax on the bottom of a plane's sole to make it work easier. Plane manufacturers made corrugated soles to make them work easier. Yet every reference I read on that suggests the corrugations do not make a difference. Personally, I have never waxed the sole of any of my planes. If a blade is set correctly, the plane works as it should. I don't think I need to wax them. I have only one plane with a corrugated sole; a Bedrock 4 1/2. I have no problem pushing that plane either and don't see any difference pushing that plane over say a number 8. I guess I never thought the planes needed help in going over the surface of a board. If it is too hard to push, I lighten the depth of cut and get to work. A poster in another thread brought up exactly why I shy away from putting wax on the sole, because I don't want wax or whatever interfering with the final finish. I think it is also important to have a nice, smooth surface on your sole, which I achieve by lapping with sandpaper up to 220 grit.

Since I never used wax on a sole, can anyone attest that your plane is actually easier to use with some wax on the sole? If so, how often do you have to apply it to keep it working at the same level? Do you have issues with leaving wax residue on a board?


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

I use Johnson's on my planes. Not just for ease of use but to protect them from any rust. I have a basement shop so tend to be fairly liberal in application on all metal surfaces. Frequency depends on use. When you notice more friction or resistance, just put on a dab. Never really had a problem with residue. When I wipe off the wax, there is just enough to provide a coating on the surface of the object but not enough to leave any goop behind.

Wax does make planing a tad bit easier. It isn't a situation where one can't push the plane or the plane gets stuck in the wood. As you mentioned, those are issues related to tuning or adjusting blade depth. It is about the rythym you pick up when surfacing. You get a bit of a glide going that is only noticeable when you plane for awhile. When surfaces meet, it builds up friction, friction causes resistance. The wax lowers the resistance but doesn't fix bad planing technique.

I hope that helps clarify,

David


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## davidmicraig (Nov 21, 2009)

btw - If there is concern in regards to finishing, lightly use a card scraper after planing. It will smooth the surface even more and will take off any wax residue that may inadvertantly be left behind.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

Putting a squiggle of wax on the plane sole makes a remarkable difference. My wife used to sell candles so we have lots of these little "tea lite" candles around. They are paraffin wax. I read and heard about this from various sources like you. I tried it and it makes a difference. I've never had any problem with the finish.

Try it. No harm.


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## Eric_S (Aug 26, 2009)

I use a stick of beeswax and give my plane soles a quick swipe from back to front every 20-30 plane passes
You can usually tell when you need to reapply it, and I just do one quick swipe so it's super fast to reapply.
it makes a VERY noticeable difference. Be careful the first time you do it, don't use as much force or you'll go flying across the room lol. It makes a huge difference honestly. Try it once and you'll see how much easier it makes it, especially when doing deep planing.

From what I've heard, paraffin wax is the best to use as it doesn't leave a residue affecting finishing but I've never had an issue with the beeswax stick


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## PeteMoss (Nov 24, 2008)

It makes the unbearable bearable. That may be an exaggeration, but not by much.


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## Bill_Z (Dec 6, 2011)

I use a piece of raw carnuba wax and make a running figure 8 across the width of the sole from end to end. You could really feel when the wax was gone. I consulted at a shop hand-planing wood flooring (taught both planing techniques and sharpening techniques). Hand-planing 20 or 30 square feet an hour makes you look for anything that makes pushing the plane easier.


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## Lumber2Sawdust (Jul 22, 2010)

It's funny to see this thread tonight. Last night I did some work with my hand planes and I noticed a little surface rust spot on one of the planes. I wiped a light coat of camelia oil on the sole, and sides of the planes. Camelia oil is recommended by Lie-Nielsen and others for protecting planes and other tools.

I picked up my jointer plane tonight and on the first pass over a board, I almost threw the plane into the wall! It was remarkable how much easier the plane moved over the board. I didn't find it difficult to plane last night, but a light coat of oil really makes a difference. The fact my planes don't rust helps, too


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## drfunk (Jan 26, 2011)

I use beeswax on the sole and never had a finishing problem (Chris Schwarz just did a blog post about this: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/doesnt-that-interfere-with-finishing) I find it makes a very noticeable difference and use it constantly.

I also wet the endgrain of super hardwoods with mineral spirits when shooting (and wax the sole and cheek there too).


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Thank you, dr… Everything I wanted to add, you just did. Suffice to say, the wax you add to your plane is shaved off in subsequent passes. I do it, love it, wouldn't plane without it…


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## derosa (Aug 21, 2010)

I have an old can of turtle wax in the shop, started using it when I noticed small signs of rust just forming.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I started to us Fluid film instead of wax. Paul Sellers recommends 3 in 1 oil, I use fluid film on all my tools, it works well, protect agains rust and can be easily sprayed on.


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## NJWiliam (May 16, 2011)

I wax my planes to protect them - currently using trewax - and use beeswax on the soles while working with them. No finishing problems, but you could not wax your smoother if you're still concerned about finishes.


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## Dcase (Jul 7, 2010)

I didn't think wax would make a difference but after I tried a little beeswax on the soles of my planes I realized it makes a great difference… Its never effected my finish.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Paraffin for me; in the canning aisle of the grocery. The beeswax I have is pretty sticky. I figure I'm probably going to hit it with a scraper anyway, though.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

you need to try it to believe it. Lube on the sole makes a pretty big difference.


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## wingate_52 (May 14, 2011)

I use a tealight candle. Improves the cut and reduces the effort


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## andrewr79 (Dec 17, 2011)

Liquid Beeswax for me, although I've also used a tealight candle with sucess. With a well set up plane it still makes a huge difference. I also wax all my saws, another thing that people have been doing for well over a century, and that makes a big difference too. Never had an issue with finishing - by the time you've taken a few shavings with the plane any excess is on the floor with those lovely curls…


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## TopamaxSurvivor (May 2, 2008)

A friend of mine hand planed the sides of 200 or 300 rifle stocks he roughed out of highly figured walnut. He tried wax, but finally went to a corrugated plane. He said it made a BIG difference.


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## paratrooper34 (Apr 27, 2010)

Awesome, thanks everyone for the input. I did try this out today. I applied some beeswax to the bottom of my 4 1/2 and while not dramatic, I did notice a slight difference.


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## andrewr79 (Dec 17, 2011)

paratrooper, did you let it dry then buff it a bit?. I've found this gives better results.


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