# Inlay Tools



## Jon3 (Feb 28, 2007)

*Introduction and Radius Cutter*

I was very intruiged by Steve Latta's DVD for Lie-Nielsen "Fundamentals of Inlay: Stringing, Line & Berry" and the associated line of inlay tools that they offer along with it. I learned (by way of the Villiage Carpenter) that Steve has been touching a longer course on inlay for quite some time, and used to advocate the manufacture of your own tools, in the style that Lie-Nielsen is now offering. When looking at those offerings, I did think that several of them could be made at home quite easily, and the $300 savings applied to something I can't make as easily, like a high angle 4 1/2. I did buy the radius cutter and straight line cutter replacement blades from L-N, because I didn't want to spend time trimming the appropriate sized steel sheet stock, and learning to file saw teeth.

Somehow I managed to lose the first few photos of my progress on the first tools, so I apologize in advance. I decided to start with what appears to be the most difficult of the 4 tools, the Radius Cutter. At it's heart, this consists of 2 parallel guide bars, a cutter, and pinion, and a set screw to keep the bars from sliding.

Since I've lost my original photos, I'll have to improvise and describe my process. I bought some 1/4" brass rod stock from my favorite metals supplier, Speedy Metals. (I'm also a bit of an amateur metalworker, but that is another blog post entirely!)

I also used some scrap cherry, and drilled two long 1/4" holes through it. I then cut about an inch off the end for the 'head' of the inlay tool, and glued the two rods into the head with Epoxy. I didn't properly plan how the epoxy was going to get out of the hole, and while pushing the rods in, perhaps a little too aggressively, I managed to split the head. However, the 5 minute epoxy leaked through the small split, and dried quickly enough to keep the head a solid. Sort of a self-fixing mistake.

On the other half of the body, I brought a burr up on the end of some brass rod stock, and used it like a scraper to help widen the holes enough to make the passage of the body over the brass rod nice and smooth, then installed a 1/4-20 threaded insert, and trimmed a brass 1/4-20 knurled knob down to appropriate length to act as the stop mechanism. Here's the main body.










The other portion of the tool is the actual pivot point that the radius cutter registers the body on. I was thinking about doing another inset nut and grind or file a screw head, but I realized this doesn't really need to be adjustable. I don't see myself doing any inlay on a very curved surface. I decided to just grind a nice point on a piece of brass stock, then trim it off and simply epoxy it in place. Ive made so many mistakes at this point I'll probably do a less error-prone version of this tool eventually, so why not.










That should do it for today!

As always, you can follow the most current progress on my blog!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Jon3 said:


> *Introduction and Radius Cutter*
> 
> I was very intruiged by Steve Latta's DVD for Lie-Nielsen "Fundamentals of Inlay: Stringing, Line & Berry" and the associated line of inlay tools that they offer along with it. I learned (by way of the Villiage Carpenter) that Steve has been touching a longer course on inlay for quite some time, and used to advocate the manufacture of your own tools, in the style that Lie-Nielsen is now offering. When looking at those offerings, I did think that several of them could be made at home quite easily, and the $300 savings applied to something I can't make as easily, like a high angle 4 1/2. I did buy the radius cutter and straight line cutter replacement blades from L-N, because I didn't want to spend time trimming the appropriate sized steel sheet stock, and learning to file saw teeth.
> 
> ...


Looks interesting


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## Jon3 (Feb 28, 2007)

*Radius Cutter complete*

Cut off and mounted, the brass point actually looks kind of nice. I'll just be a little less generous with the epoxy next time, so I don't end up with that overfill bead.










I mounted the radius cutter, going about 1/16th to 1/8th deeper than the brass pivot point, so that the cutter will remain as perpendicular to the work as possible. Since the holes in the cutter to attach it to the tool are oval, there is some room for adjustment later on.










It isn't perfect, but my version bears a faint similarity to the wholeheartedly cloned L-N/Latta version. (Cheesy pixelated/resized Internet photo in the background there!) Based on my eyeball sizing, I made this tool oversized, much like the others will undoubtedly be.










I have to admit though, aesthetic concerns aside, the tool cuts a pretty neat curve. I can tell that this tool is one that will definitely require some practice to master. While this circle looks good, there are some areas where I could tell that the depth was uneven. I think I might create a small depth stop gauge to slide onto the cutter, so that I can do a 'final pass' against a depth stop and make sure that I have a nice uniform seat for the inlay strips to register against.










Also, I've discovered that I should make the head as small as I can, and get the pivot point moved up as far as I can. This tool limits my ability to make small circles somewhat. I think my minimum is about ~2 inches, which is OK, but I may choose to make a second one in smaller dimensions to insure I can make smaller circles. The thing to keep in mind, is that the distance between the pivot point and the cutter is the final circle's radius, not it's diameter! We'll see how it works in practice.

Now, in order to make the inlay, I've got to create the other tools so that I can test out my circular cutter!


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Jon3 said:


> *Radius Cutter complete*
> 
> Cut off and mounted, the brass point actually looks kind of nice. I'll just be a little less generous with the epoxy next time, so I don't end up with that overfill bead.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the post. it's always great to be reminded that we can make out own tools, and good ones too.


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## Kindlingmaker (Sep 29, 2008)

Jon3 said:


> *Radius Cutter complete*
> 
> Cut off and mounted, the brass point actually looks kind of nice. I'll just be a little less generous with the epoxy next time, so I don't end up with that overfill bead.
> 
> ...


I too thank you for the post. Your tool looks great!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Jon3 said:


> *Radius Cutter complete*
> 
> Cut off and mounted, the brass point actually looks kind of nice.  I'll just be a little less generous with the epoxy next time, so I don't end up with that overfill bead.
> 
> ...


good blog thanks for sharing


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## David (Jan 26, 2007)

Jon3 said:


> *Radius Cutter complete*
> 
> Cut off and mounted, the brass point actually looks kind of nice. I'll just be a little less generous with the epoxy next time, so I don't end up with that overfill bead.
> 
> ...


Jon -

Excellent set of posts on your inlay radius cutter. I have been following this closely as I am experimenting with the same thing in my shop. You have produced a very nice and serviceable tool.

Below are some photos of my *Straight Line String Inlay Cutter* (version I).


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## Jon3 (Feb 28, 2007)

Jon3 said:


> *Radius Cutter complete*
> 
> Cut off and mounted, the brass point actually looks kind of nice. I'll just be a little less generous with the epoxy next time, so I don't end up with that overfill bead.
> 
> ...


David, my straight line cutter is on the way as well! Give me another day or so!


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## David (Jan 26, 2007)

Jon3 said:


> *Radius Cutter complete*
> 
> Cut off and mounted, the brass point actually looks kind of nice. I'll just be a little less generous with the epoxy next time, so I don't end up with that overfill bead.
> 
> ...


Jon, Cool! I am looking forward to your design.

David


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

Jon3 said:


> *Radius Cutter complete*
> 
> Cut off and mounted, the brass point actually looks kind of nice. I'll just be a little less generous with the epoxy next time, so I don't end up with that overfill bead.
> 
> ...


nice work


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## Jon3 (Feb 28, 2007)

*Inlay Tools #3: Straight Line Cutter*

The next tool up is the straight line cutter. This looked at lot more straightforward than the radius cutter, but it does still require a nice uniform mortise to hold the cutter support beam. I used Cherry on the first tool, but I decided to go for some scrap Sipo (afraican mahogany) I had left over from another project, since I wanted to make the tool nice and thick.

Like the first tool, all I had was a resized and pixelated image from the L-N website, the cutter, and some thin brass bar stock from Speedy Metals.










I trimmed an 8/4 block to size, and then used the offcut to give myself a nice 4/4 square crossbar. I also selected the 3/32" x 3/4" brass stock. 360 Brass is an extremely workable material, and it doesn't rust, which makes it an excellent metal for integrating into your woodworking tools.










I laid out the general shape of my final tool, and marked where I'd like the various mortise and rub strip to be located at.










The hardest part would be to keep the mortise walls perpendicular, so that the beam that supports the cutter will remain in line with the work. You don't want your inlay skewed into the workpiece sideways, and if the radius cutter's teeth don't run in a straight line, the width of your inlay will be the wrong size for the work. First, I bored out most of the waste.










Then I used my marking knife (made from a kit from Czeck Edge) and a backer block to edge a nice straight line from corner to corner. I then lightly chiseled and relieved the edge, to give myself a nice reference surface.

Here's my in-action shot, of truing up the sides of the mortise all around.










The bar drops in, and remains almost dead perpendicular.










Given I did it with hand tools, the mortise is probably as dead true as I'm going to be able to make it.










If you'd like to cheat, then I suggest you hog out the hole with an undersize forstner bit, make a template, and slowly remove the side wall waste with a flush pattern trim bit on your router table, and only do the final corner bits by hand, so you'll have 4 large surfaces to reference against.

Next I cut the overhang area, where the brass wear strip will be mounted, and that the tool will ride on.










I did this in a 2-cut pass on the tablesaw, with no trapped waste. It was just just shy of perfect, so that the ATB blade I had loaded would not leave an unsightly groove. I cleaned out the small nib with a rabbet block plane.










With that cleaned up, I cut the brass stock to size with a hacksaw, and taped it in place so that I could predrill the screw holes into my stock. You'll notice that the whole piece is fastened in place pretty well. I find when working with metal, this is worth the few extra seconds.










I got the holes drilled out, and just barely let the countersink touch them.










This is why I hate multi-flute countersinks. Inevetible chatter.










I have to pick up a single flute job for this particular brass screw. On the todo list! I removed the screws and began to clean up the holes by hand with the multi-flute as best I could.










I mounted the wear strip, and screwed it in. You'll notice the screw heads do protrude a tiny bit. Yes, this is on purpose! I find if you leave them a bit proud, that after you file them down, you get a much tighter fit than if you set them in all the way, since the screw's lip is rounded, and the countersink is a straight wall.










Then I filed it flush with the bottom of the body of the tool.










Looking good so far.










I probably should have taken this step earlier, since I'm not balancing the tool on a half-side, hence the elaborate clamping, so lesson learned! So much easier to make a mistake like this once you've got a good aftermarket drill press table! The hole is for the 1/4-20 threaded insert which will hold the knurled bolt that retains the cutter bar's distance from the work.










This is my favorite way to install a threaded insert. The only thing I would also have done is to put a washer in place between the first nut and the threaded insert, but I needed this insert to sit slightly below the level of the wood to hide it. I *never* use the flats cut into the threaded insert, as they almost always leave some thin shavings in the well of the threaded insert, which eat up the brass threads. I probably should have used an actual brass insert, but I didn't have any, and these were included with a Rockler T-Track make-your-own kit I got, so I used them!










With brass knurled knob installed!

With the retaining knob out of the way, I moved back to the wear strip, and my effort to pretty it up. I got my very fine bastard file, and went to town. I followed it up with some 320grit to give it a slightly better polish. I don't take it any higher than that on a work surface like this. It isn't jewelry, its a tool!










Some quick work at the bandsaw, followed by the belt/OSS sander, and we've got a shape pleasing to my fat hands. Although the tool is a bit oversized, I find I get a good comfortable grip on it. Perhaps a I'll eventually "Krenov" it to fit my hand, once I try it out some.










Last up, I've got to prep the cutter bar to hold the cutter. Quick eyeball layout.










Pre-drilled hole looks good.










And we're good to go!










It cuts beautifully.










Next up, Slicing Gauge!


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## David (Jan 26, 2007)

Jon3 said:


> *Inlay Tools #3: Straight Line Cutter*
> 
> The next tool up is the straight line cutter. This looked at lot more straightforward than the radius cutter, but it does still require a nice uniform mortise to hold the cutter support beam. I used Cherry on the first tool, but I decided to go for some scrap Sipo (afraican mahogany) I had left over from another project, since I wanted to make the tool nice and thick.
> 
> ...


Jon -

Another great blog posting! I was anxiously waiting for this project and you sure did not let me down! Great write-up and excellent photos. Thanks for sharing.

David


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## kenn (Mar 19, 2008)

Jon3 said:


> *Inlay Tools #3: Straight Line Cutter*
> 
> The next tool up is the straight line cutter. This looked at lot more straightforward than the radius cutter, but it does still require a nice uniform mortise to hold the cutter support beam. I used Cherry on the first tool, but I decided to go for some scrap Sipo (afraican mahogany) I had left over from another project, since I wanted to make the tool nice and thick.
> 
> ...


Nice job, I am enjoying following this line of tool making and am looking forward to your upcomong inlay work…no pressure, huh?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Jon3 said:


> *Inlay Tools #3: Straight Line Cutter*
> 
> The next tool up is the straight line cutter. This looked at lot more straightforward than the radius cutter, but it does still require a nice uniform mortise to hold the cutter support beam. I used Cherry on the first tool, but I decided to go for some scrap Sipo (afraican mahogany) I had left over from another project, since I wanted to make the tool nice and thick.
> 
> ...


Another winning blog great job


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## PineMan (Jul 23, 2008)

Jon3 said:


> *Inlay Tools #3: Straight Line Cutter*
> 
> The next tool up is the straight line cutter. This looked at lot more straightforward than the radius cutter, but it does still require a nice uniform mortise to hold the cutter support beam. I used Cherry on the first tool, but I decided to go for some scrap Sipo (afraican mahogany) I had left over from another project, since I wanted to make the tool nice and thick.
> 
> ...


Personally I like the look of mahogany myself.
Great looking job and great job!

Reminds me of this one:



GaryK was inspired by the same FWW article.


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

Jon3 said:


> *Inlay Tools #3: Straight Line Cutter*
> 
> The next tool up is the straight line cutter. This looked at lot more straightforward than the radius cutter, but it does still require a nice uniform mortise to hold the cutter support beam. I used Cherry on the first tool, but I decided to go for some scrap Sipo (afraican mahogany) I had left over from another project, since I wanted to make the tool nice and thick.
> 
> ...


nice work


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## Jon3 (Feb 28, 2007)

*Slicing Gauge*

With my straight line cutter complete, I moved on to the slicing gauge. This tool, along with a slicing board (which is really just a board with a lip to hold the inlay material up against) allows you to cut (a ripping action) long thin strips from your inlay sheet stock. This is the first part of making the inlay material itself. Here is my 'raw materials' shot. I went with a curly spalted maple body, and a Sipo cutter support bar left over from the previous tool's offcuts.










Some layout lines, and some cleanly sliced fibers with a Czeck Edge tool, and I've begun the hand cut mortise that will hold the crossbar.










I use my widest chisel, registering in the sliced fibers, to lightly relieve the cutlines, which provides a nice solid surface to register the chisel against for mortising actions.










Hogging out the waste is the same process as my previous tool, the Straight Line Cutter. No need to repeat those photos!.

Before I do any further shaping work, this time I think ahead and drill out the hole for the threaded insert and the final hole that the screw of the knurled knob passes through.










With the threaded insert in place, I'm ready to continue.










I drilled out a hole for the 1/4" brass stock (boy, I'm getting a lot of use out of this 1 foot 1/4" brass rod, 3 projects so far, $1.72!) and the hole runs true with the crossbar. I also laid out the brass rub strip. I ran out of 3/4" x 3/32" brass stock, so this time I'm using 1" x 3/32". I also sent off an order for more of that thin stock. Quite useful, and easily workable.

I did the preliminary brass work, rounding off a nub on the end of the brass rod, and cutting it down to size for the guide bar, as well as doing the cutoff on the flat stock for the rub strip.










I created the rabbet for the rub strip, and did some fine tuning, since I ended up a bit shy of the final depth I was looking for.










I started shaping the body with bandsaw and belt/oss sander.










And we're looking good!










With cutter in position. I lightly inset the cutter with my little router plane, to help ensure the cutter didn't move at all.










Fin!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

Jon3 said:


> *Slicing Gauge*
> 
> With my straight line cutter complete, I moved on to the slicing gauge. This tool, along with a slicing board (which is really just a board with a lip to hold the inlay material up against) allows you to cut (a ripping action) long thin strips from your inlay sheet stock. This is the first part of making the inlay material itself. Here is my 'raw materials' shot. I went with a curly spalted maple body, and a Sipo cutter support bar left over from the previous tool's offcuts.
> 
> ...


nice marking gauge well done


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## bigike (May 25, 2009)

Jon3 said:


> *Slicing Gauge*
> 
> With my straight line cutter complete, I moved on to the slicing gauge. This tool, along with a slicing board (which is really just a board with a lip to hold the inlay material up against) allows you to cut (a ripping action) long thin strips from your inlay sheet stock. This is the first part of making the inlay material itself. Here is my 'raw materials' shot. I went with a curly spalted maple body, and a Sipo cutter support bar left over from the previous tool's offcuts.
> 
> ...


wow nice job


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## Jon3 (Feb 28, 2007)

*Thicknessing Gauge*

Once again, I went for some more of that curly spalted maple offcut. I spent some time seeing if I could figure out how to make my own tooling from a spare card scraper, my my first attemps to cut down hardened stock were a pretty big failure. I picked up the L-N cutters, since they're only $15 and appropriately sized already, and went to town.

This is by far the simplest tool in the batch. Really, its just a block of wood with 2 cuts, 2 rabbets, and 4 screws.

I didn't think to actually take a live action photo of the uncut wood. I'm sure you've seen curly maple before! I put the two cuts in that I'll be pulling the inlay through, and lined up the cutters to verify the size of the rabbet.










Then I lined up the cutters, with extra deep holes.










Recessed the holes, remounted the cutters, and cut a fairly simple and rough mortise, for clamping the block to the benchtop.










That is really all there is to it!


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## Gpops (Dec 20, 2008)

Jon3 said:


> *Thicknessing Gauge*
> 
> Once again, I went for some more of that curly spalted maple offcut. I spent some time seeing if I could figure out how to make my own tooling from a spare card scraper, my my first attemps to cut down hardened stock were a pretty big failure. I picked up the L-N cutters, since they're only $15 and appropriately sized already, and went to town.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info and pictures. I am off to purchase some L-N cutters and give the manufacturing of the tools a try, thanks to you. Been putting off inlaying for too long….


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## Rickterscale (Dec 8, 2011)

Jon3 said:


> *Thicknessing Gauge*
> 
> Once again, I went for some more of that curly spalted maple offcut. I spent some time seeing if I could figure out how to make my own tooling from a spare card scraper, my my first attemps to cut down hardened stock were a pretty big failure. I picked up the L-N cutters, since they're only $15 and appropriately sized already, and went to town.
> 
> ...


Great blog series. Do you have dimensions you can share with others interested in making these tools?


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## Jon3 (Feb 28, 2007)

Jon3 said:


> *Thicknessing Gauge*
> 
> Once again, I went for some more of that curly spalted maple offcut. I spent some time seeing if I could figure out how to make my own tooling from a spare card scraper, my my first attemps to cut down hardened stock were a pretty big failure. I picked up the L-N cutters, since they're only $15 and appropriately sized already, and went to town.
> 
> ...


I don't have dimensions. You could use the lie nielsen ones, as they sell all of these now. But more importantly, I think you would have the best results by sizing them to fit your hands. You want to have enough bulk so you can grasp it comfortably, but still maneuver and control it well.


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