# Use router or TS for dadoes on long boards?



## MisterMiter (Nov 3, 2010)

Rookie here at age 59, just seriously starting my hobby.

My first project is building a built-in bookshelf around a door from bedroom to finished bonus room over garage. Top and bottom shelf supports are to be routed with shelves glued/nailed to create the box on each side of door.

I'm having trouble controlling the 12" x 96" boards across my TS (using dado blades). The router is taking more skill than I thought to make the dados straight. I built a T-square for the router. Should I go the extra mile and build a more complex jig?

I'm also planning on routing 2 shallow dadoes down the length of each side for the adjustable shelf support standards.

Any suggestions would be welcome!


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## richgreer (Dec 25, 2009)

For dado cuts I always prefer a TS. Are you using finger boards to help control the wood? You might want one on the side and one on top.


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## chrisstef (Mar 3, 2010)

I think that for a board that long the router will be the best option … shallow passes with a jig setup is going to be the ticket in my opinion. Ill see if i can find a link to a jig for you.

Ohh and welcome to LJ's NukeSubs, clear your calender for the day you will be soaking in a ton of info browsing this site.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Years ago I stopped using a TS and started using a router with a jig to cut nearly all dadoes. I had the same problem as you mentioned in trying to move a long board across a TS.

BTW - I believe a groove down the side of a board is called a rabbet. For these I use a router table, although a TS works just as well.


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## jusfine (May 22, 2010)

Unless I am making a blind dado or stopped rabbet, I use the tablesaw as well.

With a level outfeed table and featherboards and hold downs, you should have no problem.

They will be useful later if you have to buy holddowns or featherboards, in my opinion much more than a complex setup for the router.

I use the magnetic switch kind, or you can make your own…


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## MisterMiter (Nov 3, 2010)

First, thanks for the quick replies!

Rich/Randy-I'm not sure how I could use a fingerboard on my TS with a 12"x 96" long board cutting the dado along the 12" width (perpendicular to the 96" length"). It's keeping the 12" snug and square against the fence that's my problem. I can see the real value of the finger board in doing the shallow dadoes for the adjustable shelf supports that will run between the top and bottom shelf as I would be feeding the board lengthwise into the TS.

Chris- I'll look forward to seeing the jig.

One other question…I guess I need to find a 23/32" straight bit for the router. My 3/4" bit seems to make a wider dado than the "3/4inch" plywood shelf seems to need…but of course it could be technique…


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## juniorjock (Feb 3, 2008)

Welcome Nuke…. Here's one of darkremer's posts about the exact jig you need. I'm sure the plans are available if you look for them. The jig is adjustable so you can make different size rabbets, but you have to keep in mind that you set the jig up for one particular router bit. Good luck.
- JJ


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## jusfine (May 22, 2010)

Nuke, I mis-read your request for info, my mistake.

When I quickly read your post, I saw it in my mind that you were making a dado or rabbit along the length of the board.

Not nearly as safe across the short distance, unless you have a sliding table…

Maybe the router is the best way to go for those.

Welcome to Lumberjocks! Hopefully you get more useful answers than I originally provided… off to work.


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## ajosephg (Aug 25, 2008)

Regarding the router bit: I use a half inch bit and make two passes. When you review the jigs you'll see that most are designed for two passes. The width of the "track" that the router base travels in is adjustable so that any width dadoe can be made with a single bit.


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## DaddyZ (Jan 28, 2010)

Long Boards - Use the router, I Agree the longer boards will be to hard to handle on the tablesaw.

Welcome !!!


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## 747DRVR (Mar 18, 2009)

For pieces that long I would use a router.Also make the dados on a 24×96 piece and then rip it in half to get 12×96(minus the kerf).That way the dados will match up perfectly.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

If your making a dado I would use a router with a fence if your making a groove or rabbit I would use a table saw unless you have a good side router table. Another problem new wood workers have is not going in the correct direction with their router. With a hand held router you route from left to right, if you move right to left the router bit will want to push away from your fence and you will not be able to cut a straight cut.


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## 747DRVR (Mar 18, 2009)

When I wrote the previous post I was assuming you are using plywood.If you are using solid wood 24" wide is probably out of the question


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

They do make plywood-specific bits, to accommodate the slightly odd size, if you want to go that way.

If you want to flip through this thread, ... lots of people gave ME great advice about how to structure a decent dado jig, for router use.

I'm still not comfortable with the idea of slinging a BIG board over my table saw, but learned-the hard way-about the pitfalls of doing it with a hand-held router.

A good jig, and GOOD clamps FOR that jig … are everything.

Welcome, and GOOD LUCK !


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## Dchip (Jun 30, 2009)

They make plywood router bits sized at 23/32'', etc…

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8376-Plywood-Straight-3-Piece/dp/B000LBJY4Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1288967013&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-90-106-4-Piece-Undersized-Plywood/dp/B00004T7AN/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1288967054&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-811-501-11-3-Piece-Plywood-Groove/dp/B000BLJIBK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1288967054&sr=8-3


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## MisterMiter (Nov 3, 2010)

Good replies all! I think I may have found not only a school, but a home here!

747DVR, I'll do that next time! I had Home Depot rip the plywood 4'x8's into 11 7/8" x 96" so I could get them into my Explorer…maybe a rookie mistake, but at $45 per sheet, I'm going to try to push ahead with these already cut.


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## Radu (Jan 25, 2010)

Richard,
Have a look at the *Dedicated Dado Sled* video posted by Bob Simmons here: http://lumberjocks.com/daddymunster/blog/17444 (it's got an ad at the beginning). That might help with your project. Good luck.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Every setup is different, but I use my TS for most dados…especially on a long board. I find the cut goes faster and it's easier to keep the board along the fence.


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## Maggiepic (Aug 26, 2010)

Let me elaborate on a1Jim's comment..No offense Jim…be sure to have your leading edge of the router bit spinning *away* from your jig/fence. This will force the router to stay against the fence. Left or right feeding directions depend on the location and configuration of the jig/fence. 
And for terminology, from what I have gathered over the years, a dado runs across the grain and groove runs with the grain.


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## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

Router for me with a fence and don't go all the way 1st take a couple runs to get a nice clean cut.


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Hi Richard and welcome aboard.

I have my Radial arm saw set up again so I have a good option for your particular situation.
The 12" width would give me a problem as my depth is roughly 18" but I could line up the two and make the slot halfway through the second piece then finish it by pulling the first board off and recutting using the slot as a line up guide for the remaining cuts.
The other option at my shop is a jig called Dado wiz allows me to clamp both boards together and route the dadoes at the same time.

Good luck with your choice.


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

with a dado sled and clamp downs the TS may be easier and faster to mass cut dadoes in parts.


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Hey guys the boards he wants to cut are 8 feet long???
I would be concerned with stability on the tablesaw.


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## jusfine (May 22, 2010)

Watch this week's Shaker drawer cabinet build at New Yankee Workshop Online.

Wouldn't be my first choice for this method, especially cutting some from the opposite end of the board, but Norm can do it!


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Barry, I wont argue with you about that but as you say you have done it over 100 times.
This fellow is new.
He would probably have less trouble with a router and guide than to set up a "good matched dado" as you describe.
I'm not comfortable with using the fence as a guide on a ripping type procedure as any little catch on the board will defintely get you a kickback.

You are either awfully skilled or awfully lucky." 
Have you got a picture of your set up? Perhaps I'm not reading you correctly.


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Randy, I watched that old vid of the shaker cabinet and all I can say is those shakers must have been mightly tall to use those sock drawers.;-)
It was kind of funny to watch Norm using the old tricky techniques. Bet he wouldn't do it now.


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## NBeener (Sep 16, 2009)

*Barry*: I JUST got that issue.

Leave it to good old FWW: they're always just ONE step behind the thing I last screwed up ;-)


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Thanks Barry. This is new to me and I like staying up to date.


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

I just noticed the Dado wiz URL disappeared on my previous posting.
This is a Youtube demo of very similar device;





EDIT!
Dado Wiz Is now called DadoMax.
Have a look at the demo.


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## fredf (Mar 29, 2008)

bob#2 your link was a bit muckeled try THIS

fred


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Apologies and thanks Fred. I noticed after the edit period was over . It actually worked during the preview stage.
That why I posted the other two links above that pretty much show the same device.
I'm not sure the Dado wiz is still available. They never did answer my queries re spare parts.
Great idea though and I'm glad someone picked it up and ran with it again.


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## RalphBarker (Oct 26, 2010)

All those sleds "sleigh" me. ;-)

I'm also a router-and-jig fan for dado cuts for shelves, and long-edge rabbets with an edge guide.


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

Bob#2:

Dado Wiz is different than Dado max. 
Dado max is a copy of dado wiz. there is a patent issue going on.

I have a dado wiz I purchased from the original inventor who use to sell through woodline.
here is the original manual of the dado wiz from woodline. it states the name of the inventor, my woodworking instructor: Jim Vice.

http://www.woodline.com/Downloads/Dadowiz%20manual.pdf


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

I would use the Table saw to cut the dado's for the adjustable shelf brackets. The end dado's can also be cut with table saw. (I am table saw person, I am bias towards the table saw) What I do for just few dado's is make a cut with table saw (regular fine tooth blade, then clean it out with a router.This will allow you to adjust for the difference of thickness of material. New metric thickness is either thicker or thinner than standard measurement lumber.(Sometimes the standard 3/4" bit is not right size.)
If you are planning on doing a LOT of dado's ,spend the time and make a jig for the router.


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## roman (Sep 28, 2007)

I use the TS and an outfeed table, finger boards on top and side.


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## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

Thanks for the heads up Ian. 
I tried several time to contact Dado Wiz by e-mail and recieved no reply from him 
The toll free line does not work in Canada.

I just assumed they had ceased selling the product and mistakenly suggested that Dado Wiz and Dado Max were the same product. 
I dont know anything about patent problems but I can say that customer service is not a high priority for the Dado wiz folks.

From what I can see they both accomplish the same task.

*What I like about both systems is that they read in the thickness of the material so you get a snug fit regardless of the thickness of your plywood . That and the fact that it's a heck of a lot faster to set up and take down.*
I have trouble getting my big mitts down the opening on my tablesaw and so dread the change over.

Mea culpa

Cheers

Bob


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## MisterMiter (Nov 3, 2010)

Thanks, to all! Here is status:

got a router jig idea from http://www.routerworkshop.com/shdadojig.html

Built it (after making feather board for TS) but modified it to fit width of baseplate as I don't have any router guide inserts (I didn't think) and only had 3/4" MDF for the cross supports.

That made the jig unusable as I soon realized it would fall off the work as soon as I completed the pass.

So next I narrowed the width of the cross supports when I found I had a spare baseplate that had like a guide bushing built in and would accept my 1/2" straight bit. When I ran it I was really excited it seemed to work, just a tad narrow, but I had a workaround for that.

But when I measured the depth of cut it was only 3/16" not 3/8" and I can't go any deeper as the plunge router collet is hitting the baseplate…So it's back to finding pieces of 1/2" ply for the cross supports instead of the 3/4" MDF I used.
The next step will be to get proper guide bushings that don't protrude so far below the bottom of the base plate.

Trial and error…not much of a plan…but I guess ya' gotta learn somewhere!


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## Beeguy (Jun 11, 2008)

I like the router mostly because I don't have a lot of clearance space on the sides of my table saw. A jig or guide is a must. There is a jig you can buy call the Router Ease Guide. It is adjustable and has a pretty foolproof way of setting up the position of the dado. I saw one demonstrated and it was pretty slick. If you are going to make a dado cuts in different situations it may be a worthwhile option. Here is the link:

http://www.routereaseguide.com/

A while back there was a link to a YouTube video where is was being reviewed. I think the link has been removed.


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## RalphBarker (Oct 26, 2010)

Another point to remember when using the router with a jig: the round base isn't necessarily perfectly round, nor is it necessarily positioned concentric to the center of the bit. I replaced my original base plates with a "precision" base from Pat Warner, which included a precision centering device.

Alternatively, you can mark your base with masking tape and arrows on both sides, and keep those points in contact with the edges of the guide jig. Flat-sided base plates are another option.


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