# Copper Patina Gate II



## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Sketching Up*

So I finally joined the ranks of all you pro-Sketchuppers. I watched some of the videos a while back and didn't get it. Tonight I watched the first five videos from the Sketchup for Woodworkers website and it all became real clear. At least enough to make a decent model. Acknowledgements and thanks go out to Rob Cameraon for all his efforts.

And so it begins… I imported a photo from my first gate's patina taken before I messed it up with wax. I think it still turned out good, but you can seem many more colors in this shot. The old gate is hanging from a frame made out of 1 1/8" galvanized metal pipe. It was pretty easy to duplicate it in the model. I'm thinking about adding two horizontal rails across the back of the gate's frame to attach to the pipe frame. This gate will be 1 1/2" thick versus 2", a little wider, same height, and will have a flatter curve (30" radius). Now with sketchup I will be able to test some different designs before cutting any wood. I'm hooked.



















And here's the first gate for comparison.


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## RjGall (Jun 16, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Sketching Up*
> 
> So I finally joined the ranks of all you pro-Sketchuppers. I watched some of the videos a while back and didn't get it. Tonight I watched the first five videos from the Sketchup for Woodworkers website and it all became real clear. At least enough to make a decent model. Acknowledgements and thanks go out to Rob Cameraon for all his efforts.
> 
> ...


Good Job Tim , I really like Sketchup also, its a very handy program {) I'm not sure if you've started using the follow me tool yet it can really help in designing here's some vases and bowls and an office chair I going to start.





You can put bullnose Etc. on a project not to mention a multitude of other aspects it can do…


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Sketching Up*
> 
> So I finally joined the ranks of all you pro-Sketchuppers. I watched some of the videos a while back and didn't get it. Tonight I watched the first five videos from the Sketchup for Woodworkers website and it all became real clear. At least enough to make a decent model. Acknowledgements and thanks go out to Rob Cameraon for all his efforts.
> 
> ...


I've only used the push/pull tool, but did see the demo. Looks very easy and powerful. Sketchup is a blast.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Sketching Up*
> 
> So I finally joined the ranks of all you pro-Sketchuppers. I watched some of the videos a while back and didn't get it. Tonight I watched the first five videos from the Sketchup for Woodworkers website and it all became real clear. At least enough to make a decent model. Acknowledgements and thanks go out to Rob Cameraon for all his efforts.
> 
> ...


Very cool well done


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Frame & Arch Layout*

One of the main challenges of cutting an arch is figuring out the dimensions and glue angle of straight boards from which an arch can be cut. Fortunately, this time around I'm using Sketchup. As you can see in the picture it is pretty easy to figure these out, although I'm still searching for a formula to calculate the dimensions. The vertical angle is 15 degrees. I drew a line intersecting the bottom of the middle of the arch with the bottom of the right side. I then made a copy of this line and dragged it to the tangent of the upper curve of the arch. I connected these with vertical lines in the middle and side. I used the Protractor tool to read the angle.










For this project I made a full size template out of Luan ply. I plan to later cut this down and use it to laminate the copper sheet. I like to use the jig saw for rough crosscuts on this size lumber. It is fast and saver than a circular saw. I also used paper to layout the segment to make sure it would cover the arch. This gate is a little wider and taller than the first. The top of the arch is based on a 30" radius curve, and since the sides are 7 1/4", the bottom curve is based on a 22 3/4" radius. Both curves use the same pivot point. (See Segmented Arches discussion in the Gate I blog).










Just like the first gate, I used the cross cut sled with the angled cutoffs to trim the segments.



















Next time on The New California Workshop, we'll cut the mortises. Stay tuned.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Frame & Arch Layout*
> 
> One of the main challenges of cutting an arch is figuring out the dimensions and glue angle of straight boards from which an arch can be cut. Fortunately, this time around I'm using Sketchup. As you can see in the picture it is pretty easy to figure these out, although I'm still searching for a formula to calculate the dimensions. The vertical angle is 15 degrees. I drew a line intersecting the bottom of the middle of the arch with the bottom of the right side. I then made a copy of this line and dragged it to the tangent of the upper curve of the arch. I connected these with vertical lines in the middle and side. I used the Protractor tool to read the angle.
> 
> ...


good progress


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*More Mortise Magic*

Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.










The new Mortise Pal is wide enough that I could clamp the parts together and cut each stile's mortise just by switching the jig from one side to the other. I just had to make sure the same side of the jig registered on the same side of each stile (in this case the front). The bottom and top (arch) rails were just as easy. Oh yeah, as I covered in the Copper Patina Gate I blog series, I made the mortise longer than the jig by overlapping the cuts. In this case I used a 1" offset on each side from the middle. You can just make out the white guidelines in the photo above.










The only problem with the MP jig is getting the mortise deep enough. One work around is to use a bit with a top guide roller and follow the edges of the mortise. I just used the shaft of the same bit I used to cut the mortise to prevent the cutter from wandering. BTW, another advantage of the Milescraft bushing is there is no top collar so you can get the bit that much deeper on the first pass. And it clears the chips and dust much better.









Here's a picture from their website.









For the tenon stock I used to resaw a length then run it through the planer or drum sander. Now I just resaw a piece on the table saw and round over the edges on the router table. Very fast and you can dial in a good fit.


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## tomakazi (May 30, 2009)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info… where did you get this?


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


The Mortise Pal? You have to order it from them http://www.mortisepal.com/. The Turnlock system? I got a couple of them at Woodcraft, but here's their webpage http://www.milescraft.com/groups/turnlock.html


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## tomakazi (May 30, 2009)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


Thank you, I'll check it out.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


Good progress


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


tomakazi, you're welcome. a1Jim, thanks.


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## Mike_FL (Jul 9, 2009)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


are you the one doing the coper petina on the gate?
if so i hope you post more about doing the petina, or maybe you could tell me how its done?
im thinking about doing some coper work for my next project and could use some help
maybe some links to more info.

BTW, what happend to the first gate, you mentioned something about some wax?
sorry if your not the guy, but if you are the one im thinking of it was your page that git me to sign up here


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


Mike. I think that is me. I haven't seen anyone else doing these although I sure hope they do. Here's the link to Part 1 of the first series. It has a bunch of info and links at the bottom http://lumberjocks.com/newTim/blog/9003. And here's the link to the finished gate on the project page http://lumberjocks.com/projects/18381

Here's the first gate. Re the wax problem. After completing the patina process I applied Renaissance wax before rinsing the panel with water. I was advised to do this by one of the suppliers. The DIY pages on David Marks' gate was unclear on this step and I don't have a copy of the program's video. Anyway the wax turned some of the yellows to brown and the whole patina kept changing to greens. I lost the reds, blues, and some other colors. If you look at the first Blog on this series you will see a picture of the panel before it turned to green. It came out looking real good, but I think I need to rinse the panel once it gets to a point that I want to keep the colors, then spray it with Permalac.









At the top left of each Project or Blog page (probably Reviews and other pages also) you will see the author's name. Under the name are links to Home, Project, and Blogs. You can use these links to view all of a member's entries. You can also do a keyword search at the bottom of the main Projects page.

I did the patina for this project (Gate #2) this morning and will post pictures ASAP. If you have any questions please let me know. You can post them here or send me a private email.


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## Mike_FL (Jul 9, 2009)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


ii sure will, thanks for the navigation advice, i had a heck of a time finding my way back here and got lucky to catch your update.

i dont think im going to do a gate, i was thinking about a coffie table or something, not sure about how well it will hold up for a table top tho.

im a big fan of David Marks, you know hes doing Youtube videos now.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


David Marks included a number of patina projects in his Woodworks show. He used 1/16" copper sheet and a hot process on the gate. I think he used copper leaf and the cold process on his other projects. The Woodworks series can still be found on the DIY website. He also has many of these projects on his own gallery page. Here's a couple of pictures from his website. And here's a link to his DIY video on his copper-top hall table.


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## Mike_FL (Jul 9, 2009)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


Yeah I'm thinking about doing something like the hall table, but lower-wider, more like a coffee table. Same basic concept, except I'm thinking about lowering the copper panel ¼' to allow for a ¼' peace of tempered plate glass to sit flush and inside the frame on top of the copper. this will allow for putting pictures or what ever between the glass and copper.

http://www.youtube.com/user/sculptnouveau
here is a link to some vids you might like


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


Sculptnouveau is also a brand of chemicals that are sold on Art Chemicals. I don't know the relationship between the two as Sculpt Nouveau also sells their own chemicals. There are some good videos on the Art Chemical website. One is the David Marks patina class.

The glass top would be a nice touch. The patina's are somewhat fragile. You need to apply some coats of laquer. Art Chemicals/Sculpt Nouveau recommend Permalac.

You'll have to decide on whether to use the hot or cold technique. One thing I don't get on David Marks page is why it takes three weeks for the cold patina on some pieces, yet near instant results on the copper leaf. If anyone knows please share.


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## Mike_FL (Jul 9, 2009)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


i think its because he used differnt CHemicals 
i was wondering about your Wax mishap,im sure you know more about this then i do but;
did you use any kind of laquer, if so was it b4 or after the waxing.
the reserch ive done indicates that (at least the way i see it) for an out door project all you really need is a laqer and if you should wax (again from what i gathered its an optional step) it should go on after the laquer


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


One vendor advised me to apply the wax before the Permalac. I questioned this, but she was adament. However, I found an entry in their site which specifically said not to apply wax to the blue or green colors as it will change their color. On mine it also changed the yellow.

I applied a patina on the new gate's panel on Saturday. I haven't rinsed it yet as I'm watching to see how it 'ages' or 'changes'. I'm thinking about adding some green chemical as my green bottled clogged up. I've also learned you can rub the patina finish afterward and re-apply. I'll write more about this in the blog.

Oh, this time I don't plan to use wax at all. I'll rinse it off w/ water and use Permalac.


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## Mike_FL (Jul 9, 2009)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


what are you going to do with the old gate?
is it posable to sand it down to clean copper and redo the petina? LOL you might have a decent table top sitting there


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *More Mortise Magic*
> 
> Okay, by now you've heard it a few times, I really like the Mortise Pal jig. This time around I paired it with the Milescraft Turnlock system which a allows you to attach bushings and other things to the router base very fast and without screws. In fact, once I get caught up on the blogs I plan to write a review of this system. Suffice it to say for now that I really like the concept and it is much easier on my catcher's mit hands.
> 
> ...


The old gate came out fine. Picture above. It just kept changing into green tones for awhile. I sealed it in wax and permalac. I do have a nice scrap piece left over though.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Cut the Arch*

So here's a step by step process I used to cut the inner and outer arches. The basic plan is to dry fit the door frame, set up the pivot for the circle jig, cut a groove for the outer arch, move the stiles out of the way while keeping the arch clamped in place, cut a groove for the inner arch, use a jig saw to cut through the grooves, then use a flush trim bit to finish the arch cuts.

Step 1: This time around I learned to cut a board to fit in the middle and mark its location on the stiles. I measured the inner and outer arches and marked them to be the same width as the stiles, 7 1/4". Note that I used a clamp across the frame to hold the pivot board in place. Will this cause a problem later on? Stay tuned.










I center punched for the pivot pin and set up the fancy circle cutting jig to make the outside cut. Note that the distance for a 30" radius arch is actually 30 1/8" to allow for 1/2 of the 1/4" bit. The outer arch is cut on one side of the bit, the inner arch on the other.










I then move the stiles out of the way while keeping the arch and pivot board clamped to the table. Both curves use the same pivot point but have different radii. The inner curve is 22 3/4" radius curve (to make the width at the top of the arch 7 1/4" to match the width of the stiles). Now I would have pictures of cutting the inner arch but as you guessed it, the pivot board was not secure and the pin popped out of the jig, so the cutter went a little whacky to use a technical term. Thankfully I had marked the position of the pivot board on the stiles so it was quick and easy to re-establish the correct distance. This time, however, I screwed the pivot board down before moving the stiles out of the way and cutting the inner curve.










And here's a closer shot of the resulting mistake. So how did I fix this? Did I start over? How would you have fixed it? I'll show my solution in the next blog.










To finish each cut I just cut through each groove with a jigsaw then used a flush trim bit to smooth out the curves, and Viola! You've got yourself an arch. Albeit one with a pretty bad gash, still an arch though. Another little thing. I clamped a couple of scraps to each end to prevent tear out. And because of gash caused by the mistake I didn't flush trim the outer arch at this point. I just trimmed it with the jigsaw.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Cut the Arch*
> 
> So here's a step by step process I used to cut the inner and outer arches. The basic plan is to dry fit the door frame, set up the pivot for the circle jig, cut a groove for the outer arch, move the stiles out of the way while keeping the arch clamped in place, cut a groove for the inner arch, use a jig saw to cut through the grooves, then use a flush trim bit to finish the arch cuts.
> 
> ...


good blog


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Mistakes... Aaaaaaaaaaargh!*

I hate mistakes. However, sometimes I like the challenge of fixing them. The idea I think is to not just cover them up, but if the fix cannot be hidden, make it appear to be part of the original design. Or as many a Lumberjock might say, make it into a design enhancement. So here's my latest error. While cutting the outer arch the pivot board and pin moved causing an unsightly gash.










And here's a close up.










So the idea came to me to make a dado, or rabbet, or groove, whatever you call it, and cut away the entire mess, then patch it.










I set up the dado blades and lengthened the fence so two points remained in contact throughout the cut. Actually, I pushed the piece through a couple of times with the blade lowered to make sure I had good control and the cut would be square.










I ended up with a nice channel to glue a cutoff. I glued it in place and trimmed it close to the arch with a jigsaw.




























I then used a pattern bit to smooth the edge with the remaining arch, and viola! Oh yeah. Since I made this mistake i decided to make this the back side of the gate. Nobody will ever see it or give it any notice, but I will look at it everytime I get a chance. And the gods will smile.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Mistakes... Aaaaaaaaaaargh!*
> 
> I hate mistakes. However, sometimes I like the challenge of fixing them. The idea I think is to not just cover them up, but if the fix cannot be hidden, make it appear to be part of the original design. Or as many a Lumberjock might say, make it into a design enhancement. So here's my latest error. While cutting the outer arch the pivot board and pin moved causing an unsightly gash.
> 
> ...


good save


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## Mike_FL (Jul 9, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Mistakes... Aaaaaaaaaaargh!*
> 
> I hate mistakes. However, sometimes I like the challenge of fixing them. The idea I think is to not just cover them up, but if the fix cannot be hidden, make it appear to be part of the original design. Or as many a Lumberjock might say, make it into a design enhancement. So here's my latest error. While cutting the outer arch the pivot board and pin moved causing an unsightly gash.
> 
> ...


Nice , on the fly design enhancement


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## DanYo (Jun 30, 2007)

newTim said:


> *Mistakes... Aaaaaaaaaaargh!*
> 
> I hate mistakes. However, sometimes I like the challenge of fixing them. The idea I think is to not just cover them up, but if the fix cannot be hidden, make it appear to be part of the original design. Or as many a Lumberjock might say, make it into a design enhancement. So here's my latest error. While cutting the outer arch the pivot board and pin moved causing an unsightly gash.
> 
> ...


... every woodworker makes mistakes …it's the good ones that hide them well, you did fine


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

newTim said:


> *Mistakes... Aaaaaaaaaaargh!*
> 
> I hate mistakes. However, sometimes I like the challenge of fixing them. The idea I think is to not just cover them up, but if the fix cannot be hidden, make it appear to be part of the original design. Or as many a Lumberjock might say, make it into a design enhancement. So here's my latest error. While cutting the outer arch the pivot board and pin moved causing an unsightly gash.
> 
> ...


Great modification. Nice job on the recovery.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Mistakes... Aaaaaaaaaaargh!*
> 
> I hate mistakes. However, sometimes I like the challenge of fixing them. The idea I think is to not just cover them up, but if the fix cannot be hidden, make it appear to be part of the original design. Or as many a Lumberjock might say, make it into a design enhancement. So here's my latest error. While cutting the outer arch the pivot board and pin moved causing an unsightly gash.
> 
> ...


Thanks all… congratulations Dan.


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## sIKE (Feb 14, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Mistakes... Aaaaaaaaaaargh!*
> 
> I hate mistakes. However, sometimes I like the challenge of fixing them. The idea I think is to not just cover them up, but if the fix cannot be hidden, make it appear to be part of the original design. Or as many a Lumberjock might say, make it into a design enhancement. So here's my latest error. While cutting the outer arch the pivot board and pin moved causing an unsightly gash.
> 
> ...


Good Save! I will have to throw that one into my bag of tricks!


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Lap Joint*

Between the All Star game on one channel and USA v. China Men's Volleyball on the other, I thought I'd squeeze in a short entry. The design of this gate is a little different from the first. I like to change up the designs so I can experiment with new or different skills. There is an existing gate hanging from a galvanized pipe frame that is very sturdy so I wanted to attach the new gate to this frame. Here's the sketchup model.










What I've learned about lap joints is the same lesson from mortises, that being it is easier to fit the tenon or in this case the rail, to the mortise than it is the mortise to the tenon. At least it is for me. So I ripped the rails a little wider with the idea I'd simply trim them down to get a nice fit.

I used the base plate from the router table because it is big and square. I measured its width and divided by two. I then drew two lines on each side of the center line subtracting for the bit's radius. I then set up two guide clamps making sure they were square and made matching cuts across both stiles.



















At that point it was pretty easy to rip the rails to get the exact width for a good fit. I also made sure to mark the matching parts as the top and bottom grooves were not the exact same width.



















And next time on the New California Workshop… finally, the patina gets applied to the copper panel


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

newTim said:


> *Lap Joint*
> 
> Between the All Star game on one channel and USA v. China Men's Volleyball on the other, I thought I'd squeeze in a short entry. The design of this gate is a little different from the first. I like to change up the designs so I can experiment with new or different skills. There is an existing gate hanging from a galvanized pipe frame that is very sturdy so I wanted to attach the new gate to this frame. Here's the sketchup model.
> 
> ...


This is interesting to follow and I love the "New California Workshop" name.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Lap Joint*
> 
> Between the All Star game on one channel and USA v. China Men's Volleyball on the other, I thought I'd squeeze in a short entry. The design of this gate is a little different from the first. I like to change up the designs so I can experiment with new or different skills. There is an existing gate hanging from a galvanized pipe frame that is very sturdy so I wanted to attach the new gate to this frame. Here's the sketchup model.
> 
> ...


Thanks Todd.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Lap Joint*
> 
> Between the All Star game on one channel and USA v. China Men's Volleyball on the other, I thought I'd squeeze in a short entry. The design of this gate is a little different from the first. I like to change up the designs so I can experiment with new or different skills. There is an existing gate hanging from a galvanized pipe frame that is very sturdy so I wanted to attach the new gate to this frame. Here's the sketchup model.
> 
> ...


good progress


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Rabbet & Dry Fit Frame*

I found out you can cut almost any size rabbet with a combination of a rabbeting bit and a straight bit. The rabbet bit has a bottom guide and the straight bit has a top guide. On the first gate the panel is held in place by stays on the front and back. On this gate the panel is recessed into a rabbet and will be held in place with stays on the front. The rabbet is cut deep enough so the panel will rest against the rails that are seated in the back with lap joints (see previous blog). I made them about 3/4" wide using a 3/8" bit and a straight bit.



















And here's the first dry fit with the untreated copper panel in the background and the template on the right.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Rabbet & Dry Fit Frame*
> 
> I found out you can cut almost any size rabbet with a combination of a rabbeting bit and a straight bit. The rabbet bit has a bottom guide and the straight bit has a top guide. On the first gate the panel is held in place by stays on the front and back. On this gate the panel is recessed into a rabbet and will be held in place with stays on the front. The rabbet is cut deep enough so the panel will rest against the rails that are seated in the back with lap joints (see previous blog). I made them about 3/4" wide using a 3/8" bit and a straight bit.
> 
> ...


good progress


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## DanYo (Jun 30, 2007)

newTim said:


> *Rabbet & Dry Fit Frame*
> 
> I found out you can cut almost any size rabbet with a combination of a rabbeting bit and a straight bit. The rabbet bit has a bottom guide and the straight bit has a top guide. On the first gate the panel is held in place by stays on the front and back. On this gate the panel is recessed into a rabbet and will be held in place with stays on the front. The rabbet is cut deep enough so the panel will rest against the rails that are seated in the back with lap joints (see previous blog). I made them about 3/4" wide using a 3/8" bit and a straight bit.
> 
> ...


you do nice work … fun to follow along


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Apply the Patina*

Just sitting here listening to Atlas Shrugged ("Money is the source of all good" and "Taggart/Reardon 2010" and "Who is John Galt?") and enjoying another 'Delta' breeze summer evening in Orangevale (Sacramento). Sorry I haven't updated this series in awhile. I've been cooped up in a small classroom for two weeks with twenty other souls, all of whom had hundreds of places they'd rather be, learning the most mind numbing material. I missed my shop.

Two Saturday's ago I applied the patina. I was initially very disapointed in it and, in fact, really hated it. But just like the weather, all you have to do is wait a bit and it will change. The great thing about these patina's is they will continue to develop, especially if exposed to sunshine. When I first applied the patina it had some real sick looking yellows and the colors just didn't look very good. After a week in the sun however, it turned out pretty good I think.

I start the process by laying everything out, sanding both sides with 220 grit, and wash both sides with warm water and dishsoap before rinsing them off and drying. Even though I only apply chemicals to one side the other is glued to a panel so I need it to have some tooth and be free of oils.










I then try to heat the entire surface before working on a particular area. I found it is important to keep the torch moving and avoid burning or overheating one area. The idea is to get the metal to around 200 degrees, about the temperature that causes sprayed water to steam on contact. I then sprayed on various chemicals and flamed them after a moment or two. You can see the colors emerge instantaneously.










I ran into a problem when the bottle with the lighter green solution had clogged up. I poured some of it into a container and applied it with a sponge the way David Marks did. You don't get as good a spread, but you can better control different textures.










You can see how the chemical steams up on contact. A very good reason to make sure you have plenty of protection. You can also tell from the picture the I am upwind so the spray is blowing away from me.










These pictures do not show the patina very well, but the next bog will!


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## Mike_FL (Jul 9, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Apply the Patina*
> 
> Just sitting here listening to Atlas Shrugged ("Money is the source of all good" and "Taggart/Reardon 2010" and "Who is John Galt?") and enjoying another 'Delta' breeze summer evening in Orangevale (Sacramento). Sorry I haven't updated this series in awhile. I've been cooped up in a small classroom for two weeks with twenty other souls, all of whom had hundreds of places they'd rather be, learning the most mind numbing material. I missed my shop.
> 
> ...


cool , was starting to worry if you forgot about us. cant wait to see some better picks.


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## DanYo (Jun 30, 2007)

newTim said:


> *Apply the Patina*
> 
> Just sitting here listening to Atlas Shrugged ("Money is the source of all good" and "Taggart/Reardon 2010" and "Who is John Galt?") and enjoying another 'Delta' breeze summer evening in Orangevale (Sacramento). Sorry I haven't updated this series in awhile. I've been cooped up in a small classroom for two weeks with twenty other souls, all of whom had hundreds of places they'd rather be, learning the most mind numbing material. I missed my shop.
> 
> ...


very cool …you are really serious on the patina part …have you ever tried http://www.sculptnouveau.com/ ?


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Apply the Patina*
> 
> Just sitting here listening to Atlas Shrugged ("Money is the source of all good" and "Taggart/Reardon 2010" and "Who is John Galt?") and enjoying another 'Delta' breeze summer evening in Orangevale (Sacramento). Sorry I haven't updated this series in awhile. I've been cooped up in a small classroom for two weeks with twenty other souls, all of whom had hundreds of places they'd rather be, learning the most mind numbing material. I missed my shop.
> 
> ...


Thanks Dan. Yes I've seen the sculpt nouveau site. I have some of Ron Young's DVDs. I also have some links on my first blog. http://lumberjocks.com/newTim/blog/9003


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Aged Patina*

Now I get to the good part. I wish I had taken pictures right after I had first applied the chemicals because the patina continued to mellow in the sun, but you can't really see the difference. As I said in the last blog, I really hated the initial finish. It looked like a biological mess. You get the idea. Anyway, I learned you can easily wipe the patina with a rag to either remove some spots or blend them with others. This time around I didn't seal it in wax nor did I rinse it with water at this point. I just let it sit in the sun. The final finish is, IMO, better than the finish in these photos, but I like these too. These were taken after several days. Sometimes the best thing you can do to a thing is nothing at all. The art of patience? In any event, I can't wait to show you the final finish.


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## StevenAntonucci (Aug 14, 2007)

newTim said:


> *Aged Patina*
> 
> Now I get to the good part. I wish I had taken pictures right after I had first applied the chemicals because the patina continued to mellow in the sun, but you can't really see the difference. As I said in the last blog, I really hated the initial finish. It looked like a biological mess. You get the idea. Anyway, I learned you can easily wipe the patina with a rag to either remove some spots or blend them with others. This time around I didn't seal it in wax nor did I rinse it with water at this point. I just let it sit in the sun. The final finish is, IMO, better than the finish in these photos, but I like these too. These were taken after several days. Sometimes the best thing you can do to a thing is nothing at all. The art of patience? In any event, I can't wait to show you the final finish.


Is it a hot or cold process? I have used both, and I get a lot of greens and blue, but no yellows or oranges. Assume it's sheet copper and not foil?

Like it a lot. Cupric Nitrate? What else?


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Aged Patina*
> 
> Now I get to the good part. I wish I had taken pictures right after I had first applied the chemicals because the patina continued to mellow in the sun, but you can't really see the difference. As I said in the last blog, I really hated the initial finish. It looked like a biological mess. You get the idea. Anyway, I learned you can easily wipe the patina with a rag to either remove some spots or blend them with others. This time around I didn't seal it in wax nor did I rinse it with water at this point. I just let it sit in the sun. The final finish is, IMO, better than the finish in these photos, but I like these too. These were taken after several days. Sometimes the best thing you can do to a thing is nothing at all. The art of patience? In any event, I can't wait to show you the final finish.


It is a hot process. Click on the previous blog to view. And the Garden Gate 1 series. I ordered the chemicals through ArtChemicals. They have many premixed that will produce certain colors. Check out this page from my first series. http://lumberjocks.com/newTim/blog/9184 Also the picture below:


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## dchi (Feb 17, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Aged Patina*
> 
> Now I get to the good part. I wish I had taken pictures right after I had first applied the chemicals because the patina continued to mellow in the sun, but you can't really see the difference. As I said in the last blog, I really hated the initial finish. It looked like a biological mess. You get the idea. Anyway, I learned you can easily wipe the patina with a rag to either remove some spots or blend them with others. This time around I didn't seal it in wax nor did I rinse it with water at this point. I just let it sit in the sun. The final finish is, IMO, better than the finish in these photos, but I like these too. These were taken after several days. Sometimes the best thing you can do to a thing is nothing at all. The art of patience? In any event, I can't wait to show you the final finish.


Tim,
I like the blues and coppery areas in the middle. I have done one similar to that part for a backsplash.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Aged Patina*
> 
> Now I get to the good part. I wish I had taken pictures right after I had first applied the chemicals because the patina continued to mellow in the sun, but you can't really see the difference. As I said in the last blog, I really hated the initial finish. It looked like a biological mess. You get the idea. Anyway, I learned you can easily wipe the patina with a rag to either remove some spots or blend them with others. This time around I didn't seal it in wax nor did I rinse it with water at this point. I just let it sit in the sun. The final finish is, IMO, better than the finish in these photos, but I like these too. These were taken after several days. Sometimes the best thing you can do to a thing is nothing at all. The art of patience? In any event, I can't wait to show you the final finish.


Don… wow, it looks great. I've thought about making copper panels for the doors, but not the backsplash. I just finished my third gate and a bed with a copper patina panel. I have a blog on both and will post project pictures soon.

Re your technique… did you use a hot or cold process? Which chemicals did you use? I don't know much about this and would like to learn all I can.


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## JAGWAH (Dec 15, 2009)

newTim said:


> *Aged Patina*
> 
> Now I get to the good part. I wish I had taken pictures right after I had first applied the chemicals because the patina continued to mellow in the sun, but you can't really see the difference. As I said in the last blog, I really hated the initial finish. It looked like a biological mess. You get the idea. Anyway, I learned you can easily wipe the patina with a rag to either remove some spots or blend them with others. This time around I didn't seal it in wax nor did I rinse it with water at this point. I just let it sit in the sun. The final finish is, IMO, better than the finish in these photos, but I like these too. These were taken after several days. Sometimes the best thing you can do to a thing is nothing at all. The art of patience? In any event, I can't wait to show you the final finish.


Looks great! But the term aged patina, thats like the term wet water. Besides arn't you doing young patina?


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## dchi (Feb 17, 2010)

newTim said:


> *Aged Patina*
> 
> Now I get to the good part. I wish I had taken pictures right after I had first applied the chemicals because the patina continued to mellow in the sun, but you can't really see the difference. As I said in the last blog, I really hated the initial finish. It looked like a biological mess. You get the idea. Anyway, I learned you can easily wipe the patina with a rag to either remove some spots or blend them with others. This time around I didn't seal it in wax nor did I rinse it with water at this point. I just let it sit in the sun. The final finish is, IMO, better than the finish in these photos, but I like these too. These were taken after several days. Sometimes the best thing you can do to a thing is nothing at all. The art of patience? In any event, I can't wait to show you the final finish.


Thanks Jagwah. It's time travel that makes my patina possible…LOL!!! I like your guitar you did for Christmas. Very nice!


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## carolyn89 (Apr 18, 2011)

newTim said:


> *Aged Patina*
> 
> Now I get to the good part. I wish I had taken pictures right after I had first applied the chemicals because the patina continued to mellow in the sun, but you can't really see the difference. As I said in the last blog, I really hated the initial finish. It looked like a biological mess. You get the idea. Anyway, I learned you can easily wipe the patina with a rag to either remove some spots or blend them with others. This time around I didn't seal it in wax nor did I rinse it with water at this point. I just let it sit in the sun. The final finish is, IMO, better than the finish in these photos, but I like these too. These were taken after several days. Sometimes the best thing you can do to a thing is nothing at all. The art of patience? In any event, I can't wait to show you the final finish.


THIS IS INCREDIBLE!!!!! how in the world did you get the beautiful teal turquoise? which chemical made that?


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

newTim said:


> *Aged Patina*
> 
> Now I get to the good part. I wish I had taken pictures right after I had first applied the chemicals because the patina continued to mellow in the sun, but you can't really see the difference. As I said in the last blog, I really hated the initial finish. It looked like a biological mess. You get the idea. Anyway, I learned you can easily wipe the patina with a rag to either remove some spots or blend them with others. This time around I didn't seal it in wax nor did I rinse it with water at this point. I just let it sit in the sun. The final finish is, IMO, better than the finish in these photos, but I like these too. These were taken after several days. Sometimes the best thing you can do to a thing is nothing at all. The art of patience? In any event, I can't wait to show you the final finish.


Thanks Carolyn… I think the best place to go is ArtChemicals.com. They have a bunch of pre-mixed chemicals with a color chart. They also have some recipies, techniques, and videos.


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## newTim (Jul 11, 2008)

*Charles Neil Trick*

So I wasn't too happy with the look of the front stays on this gate. And I had also made another router mistake when cutting the rabbet. What to do? What to do? Seems like I'm always messing things up. Well time for a design enhancement. I had the idea when doing the first gate that a molding that framed the panel might look good. Seems like a good time to try it out.










Since I had also received my new, longer, circle cutting bar for my Milescraft cirlce jig, now seemed like a good time to put it to use. Seems like I'm getting pretty good at setting up for arch cuts. Good is maybe to bold, experienced might be a better word.










Here I'm cutting the arch for the top of the molding. The final pieces are about 3/16" thick. I wanted to be able to connect the parts before glueing/nailing them to the door and I remembered a video from Charles Neil where he used a forstner bit and dowels to support the corners of a picture frame. Why won't it work here?










Turns out it worked just fine. The molding was strong enough to position on the door. BTW, you can also see how the patina has aged. I hung the door this morning and it looks great. Pictures will have to wait for the next blog.


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