# Constructing "Old 99"



## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*Starting the journey.*

A while ago someone requested a blog on the construction of my toys. 
I'll start by warning you that writing composition is not one of my strong suits. Also I build everything from plans even if I have to draw my own. This project was actually started 6 months ago, then other higher priority projects or life got in the way. It is now complete and will be posted once all the blog parts are posted.
I'll try for one a day.
TIME: I often get asked "How many hours did it take?"
I believe a hobby is something you do to feed your creative side and escape from time constraints. My entire working life, I had to punch a clock and keep track of time, sometimes by the minute. I have never kept track of my hobby time. Now that I'm retired time is even less important, but for those people that think it's important: I never run power tools before 9:00 am or after 6:00 pm. I could run them from 7:00 am until 11:00 pm, I just don't.

I'm building the Toys and Joys Old 99 locomotive. It consists of 8 (18" X24") pages of full sized drawings with most of the dimensions that you will need. Be prepared for a lot of hand sanding. When you look at the plans they look overwhelming with all the intricate parts. Don't get discouraged. I treat each and every one of these parts as a project unto itself. Did I mention? Be prepared for a lot of hand sanding.

The first thing that I do is check the plans. I'm looking for any pieces that I will have to glue to get the size I need. Also I look to see what thicknesses I'll need and try to get that done first.
The first page of this plan is a full sized picture of the finished project, a material, and a parts list.(Wheels etc.) I tried making my own wheels once, never again!
Note: If you check the website, they offer a kit of the parts. The parts are things like wheels, head and taillights, and dowels. Usually I just go to my toy parts store (link). However I couldn't find the small train wheels, so I just ordered both the plans and parts kit. 
The link shows the locomotive done in maple with black walnut accents, I've reversed this.
These pictures show where I was when I sat it aside. The first picture shows pieces that were glued up and the corners cut off ready for the lathe. The partially turned piece was where I stopped.



The 2 parts on page 2 ready for sanding. All the cuts and holes are clearly marked on the plan. 
The piece with the holes is actually the second one. I started cutting the 45's on the edge rather than the bottom.
The thin piece needs the 2 front corners cut off.



The corners are cut


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## romansfivefive (Jan 26, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *Starting the journey.*
> 
> A while ago someone requested a blog on the construction of my toys.
> I'll start by warning you that writing composition is not one of my strong suits. Also I build everything from plans even if I have to draw my own. This project was actually started 6 months ago, then other higher priority projects or life got in the way. It is now complete and will be posted once all the blog parts are posted.
> ...


thank you so much for showing us your process. I can't wait to learn more


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## odie (Nov 20, 2007)

MrWoody said:


> *Starting the journey.*
> 
> A while ago someone requested a blog on the construction of my toys.
> I'll start by warning you that writing composition is not one of my strong suits. Also I build everything from plans even if I have to draw my own. This project was actually started 6 months ago, then other higher priority projects or life got in the way. It is now complete and will be posted once all the blog parts are posted.
> ...


I'm enjoying this … keep them coming.


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## toyguy (Nov 23, 2007)

MrWoody said:


> *Starting the journey.*
> 
> A while ago someone requested a blog on the construction of my toys.
> I'll start by warning you that writing composition is not one of my strong suits. Also I build everything from plans even if I have to draw my own. This project was actually started 6 months ago, then other higher priority projects or life got in the way. It is now complete and will be posted once all the blog parts are posted.
> ...


Keep em' coming budy…........


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *Starting the journey.*
> 
> A while ago someone requested a blog on the construction of my toys.
> I'll start by warning you that writing composition is not one of my strong suits. Also I build everything from plans even if I have to draw my own. This project was actually started 6 months ago, then other higher priority projects or life got in the way. It is now complete and will be posted once all the blog parts are posted.
> ...


Great bog. I agree 100% with your philosophy about tracking hobby time. Doing what I do now where every second counts I *absolutely *do not want to count time off duty!


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

MrWoody said:


> *Starting the journey.*
> 
> A while ago someone requested a blog on the construction of my toys.
> I'll start by warning you that writing composition is not one of my strong suits. Also I build everything from plans even if I have to draw my own. This project was actually started 6 months ago, then other higher priority projects or life got in the way. It is now complete and will be posted once all the blog parts are posted.
> ...


Great toy. Time what's time, when you are in the shop.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *Starting the journey.*
> 
> A while ago someone requested a blog on the construction of my toys.
> I'll start by warning you that writing composition is not one of my strong suits. Also I build everything from plans even if I have to draw my own. This project was actually started 6 months ago, then other higher priority projects or life got in the way. It is now complete and will be posted once all the blog parts are posted.
> ...


Can't wait to see more!!


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*Continuing the journey*

I've jumped to page 5 of the plans for 2 reasons. First reason and most important, I felt like doing some lathe work. Secondly some of the next parts have to be fitted between the base and the boiler.
Now I should point out that I'm not an expert on the lathe. I've never had any instruction, just read a couple of books, watched Norm Abram and Tim Yoder on TV.
I managed to turn 3 of the 4 glue-ups without incidence. On the 4th I was tired or over confident I'm not sure, but I got a catch and destroyed the piece. At this point I should have walked away and returned the next day; I didn't. I decided to cut and glue a new piece and leave it in clamps overnight. The next morning I put the piece on the lathe and started turning. It wasn't long before I noticed a problem. I had used the wrong dimensions. The part was much too big.
Cut and glue a new piece.



Wanting to be in the shop, I started to work on the boiler. The jig to hold the turned boiler is shown in the plans. The pictures should explain its use. The turning is screwed into the jig and the index marks are lined up as needed. The whole thing is put on its side and run part way through the TS to flatten part of the bottom.



*Saw guard removed for picture clarity.*



My lathe has an indexed head at 15° increments so I marked the boiler at the needed angles. Taking 0° as top centre of the boiler I needed 60° and 90° each side. The jig is marked 0° at the top and at 90° each side. The holes were drilled without incidence.



I finished the last turned piece.



Here are the other turnings.


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## toyguy (Nov 23, 2007)

MrWoody said:


> *Continuing the journey*
> 
> I've jumped to page 5 of the plans for 2 reasons. First reason and most important, I felt like doing some lathe work. Secondly some of the next parts have to be fitted between the base and the boiler.
> Now I should point out that I'm not an expert on the lathe. I've never had any instruction, just read a couple of books, watched Norm Abram and Tim Yoder on TV.
> ...


ya got my boiler working…..... good job


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

MrWoody said:


> *Continuing the journey*
> 
> I've jumped to page 5 of the plans for 2 reasons. First reason and most important, I felt like doing some lathe work. Secondly some of the next parts have to be fitted between the base and the boiler.
> Now I should point out that I'm not an expert on the lathe. I've never had any instruction, just read a couple of books, watched Norm Abram and Tim Yoder on TV.
> ...


I'm really enjoying this keep up the good work!!!!


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

MrWoody said:


> *Continuing the journey*
> 
> I've jumped to page 5 of the plans for 2 reasons. First reason and most important, I felt like doing some lathe work. Secondly some of the next parts have to be fitted between the base and the boiler.
> Now I should point out that I'm not an expert on the lathe. I've never had any instruction, just read a couple of books, watched Norm Abram and Tim Yoder on TV.
> ...


very nice.


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*A bumpy ride.*

Unfortunately I got involved in the next part and forgot to take pictures. The camera is now in the shop. I'll do my best to explain what I did.
After re-reading this, I decided that even I couldn't understand what I did, so I used a piece of scrap poplar and made the cuts so I could take pictures.
Back to page 2 of the plans. I mentioned earlier that a piece needed to be fit between the turned boiler and the base. On page 3 there is another piece that needs to fit on top of the boiler. To start you need the actual diameter of the boiler at the spot where the support block goes. The plans say it is 2 5/8" mine isn't. My boiler is actually 2 11/16". Page 2 boiler support block is 3/4" thick and page 3 headlamp base is 3/8". I decided to cut both pieces out of the same piece. Using my circle cutter on my drill press I drilled a 2 11/16" hole.
Then I marked reference lines on each side of the hole so I could find centre. I actually had a centre line marked but the bit on the circle cutter must be dull, it moved.



The boiler support had to be 1 3/4" wide on center of the hole and the headlamp base had to be 1 3/8".
One was marked on either edge of the board then I sliced it up the middle, lengthwise. I should mention that I left both these pieces about 8" long so I have something to hang onto. I now have 2 pieces with half a circle cut out on each piece that is still too wide.



The boiler support is 1 3/4" wide by 3/4" thick by 1 3/16" high but it has to fit between the boiler and the base so I ripped the piece marked for the boiler support at 1 1/4". Now the piece for the headlamp base is still 3/4" thick by approximately 1 3/8" wide. I need 3/8" X 3/8" X 1 3/8". I ripped it along the upper line which is the top of the lamp base/bracket. I raised the blade just enough to cut through the arc when I set the piece on its edge. Set the fence at 3/8" and with a push stick made a pass over the blade making sure my reference marks were against the fence.



*Saw guard removed for picture clarity.*

Now with the marks against the table and the keeper piece against the fence I made another pass over the blade. My push stick has a 1/2" hook so the cut piece passes by the blade and doesn't bind.



*Saw guard removed for picture clarity.*

The boiler support needs to be checked for clearance, as I deliberately left it heavy I need to trim it.



I sneaked up on the correct height.



I now have the 2 pieces I need.



Using my miter gauge and my reference marks I cut them to length. The top of each piece has an angled cut on each side. I just marked them and sanded them off at the belt sander.


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## toyguy (Nov 23, 2007)

MrWoody said:


> *A bumpy ride.*
> 
> Unfortunately I got involved in the next part and forgot to take pictures. The camera is now in the shop. I'll do my best to explain what I did.
> After re-reading this, I decided that even I couldn't understand what I did, so I used a piece of scrap poplar and made the cuts so I could take pictures.
> ...


I like the fact that you told us about leaving the piece long so you have something to hang on to….... That's a lesson I had to find out the hard way. 
Nice work Woody.


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

MrWoody said:


> *A bumpy ride.*
> 
> Unfortunately I got involved in the next part and forgot to take pictures. The camera is now in the shop. I'll do my best to explain what I did.
> After re-reading this, I decided that even I couldn't understand what I did, so I used a piece of scrap poplar and made the cuts so I could take pictures.
> ...


Thanks again please keep them coming!!!


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## Chipncut (Aug 18, 2006)

MrWoody said:


> *A bumpy ride.*
> 
> Unfortunately I got involved in the next part and forgot to take pictures. The camera is now in the shop. I'll do my best to explain what I did.
> After re-reading this, I decided that even I couldn't understand what I did, so I used a piece of scrap poplar and made the cuts so I could take pictures.
> ...


*Very nice!*

I just jumped on for the ride today.

Its been a fun ride so far.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

MrWoody said:


> *A bumpy ride.*
> 
> Unfortunately I got involved in the next part and forgot to take pictures. The camera is now in the shop. I'll do my best to explain what I did.
> After re-reading this, I decided that even I couldn't understand what I did, so I used a piece of scrap poplar and made the cuts so I could take pictures.
> ...


I'm working backward. I'd missed a bunch of the earlier posts.


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*Sitting on the by-pass.*

Today is Biker Betty's birthday. She and her SO are coming to dinner so I only have the morning to work in the shop.
I have a box with pieces of left over stock that I used for my other train projects.
Looking through it I realized that I didn't have any 3/8" material that I was going to need soon. I decided that I had better go over the plans again and check that I had enough of the other thicknesses that I'm going to need; I didn't. I picked a few of the longer pieces of stock that were close to what I would need and spent an hour with the planer (1/16", 1/8", 1/4" and 3/8"). 
Now back to page 3 of the plans. I need 2 pieces 1 5/16" thick. One 2" X 3", the other 2" X 1 5/8". I took pictures of the process, but decided not to post them. They are now deleted. I will show you the end result along with the push sticks that I used. Enough said.



The inverted "T" shaped one (front wheel assembly) needs a cove cut (sanded) into it. The wonky shaped one (rear wheel assembly) needs 45° angles cut on the top of each side and both need to be drilled for the axles.
I managed to get the layouts for the 45's and the holes done before I had to pack it in. I managed to get back in the shop for a few minutes before the kids arrived so I finished of the wheel assemblies except for the cove on the front one.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

MrWoody said:


> *Sitting on the by-pass.*
> 
> Today is Biker Betty's birthday. She and her SO are coming to dinner so I only have the morning to work in the shop.
> I have a box with pieces of left over stock that I used for my other train projects.
> ...


Very nice


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*Rolling along*

I sanded the cove on the front wheel assembly first thing this morning.



Front and rear wheel blocks.



The wheels for the engine drive need holes drilled 9/16" from the center of the axle hole. From past experience I know it's important that these holes are as accurate as possible. So I took a small piece of axle dowel and found center and put a wheel on it. From center I marked 9/16".



A tip: when you want to remove the dowel from the wheel, wrap the dowel with sand paper and you should be able to twist them apart. I have a foot square piece of plywood with 1/4" thick strips nailed at 90° to each other. I have a small rod with a point that goes into the drill press, used to find the center of where the quill is. With the wheel in the corner of the 1/4" strips the quill is brought down to the mark on the wheel; lock the quill down.
Then clamp the plywood to the DP table. Release the quill and put a 5/32" bit in the chuck, holding the wheel tight to the corner drill the hole. The other 3 wheels are just put in the corner and drilled.





Now that the wheels are ready, we can go back to the wheel assemblies.
On the plans for both front and rear wheel assemblies it says: "This height may need to be adjusted if wheels do not touch evenly". They didn't so, over to the belt sander and take a little off the top. I used feeler gauges to figure out how much, just over 1/32".



The wheels are not glued but now all the wheels will ride the rails.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *Rolling along*
> 
> I sanded the cove on the front wheel assembly first thing this morning.
> 
> ...


Looks like it is coming along nicely. Thanks for the tip for aligning the drill press!

Lew


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## bhack (Mar 19, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *Rolling along*
> 
> I sanded the cove on the front wheel assembly first thing this morning.
> 
> ...


I admire the patience you have with working with small parts. You mentioned in a previous blog that your lathe abilities were few. I don't think so. I am retired also and agree 100% about time tracking. Keep up the posts. They are encouraging me to try a toy plan.

Looking forward to the next.


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## LeeinEdmonton (Aug 5, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *Rolling along*
> 
> I sanded the cove on the front wheel assembly first thing this morning.
> 
> ...


You are coming along beautifully with "99".Excellent workmanship. With no kids, I did not discover the enjoyment to be found in making toys until I retired. Also a perfect way to reduce the project scrap pile that is more productive than feeding them into a wood stove. Nothing larger than 3" square in my scrap pile is wasted.

Lee


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

MrWoody said:


> *Rolling along*
> 
> I sanded the cove on the front wheel assembly first thing this morning.
> 
> ...


Very interesting. Thanks for the posts.


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*An easy push.*

Last night I photocopied a few parts from the plan and glued them to some 1/8" and 3/16" stock using Elmer's rubber cement. If you put this stuff on just one part to glue it just rolls off when you need. I tried spray adhesive but found it too messy.
I'm making the counter weights for the wheels and the parts for the cow catcher. 
The picture shows the triangles glued to 1/8" stock. I had to peel them off and glue them to 3/16".



At the band saw I cut the pieces close to the line. Then using my small belt sander I almost took the black line off.





Then I peeled the paper off. It leaves a slight residue which just rolls off with your fingers.



Then I sanded everything to 220. I haven't mentioned it before, but I sand every piece to 220 before I work on it. Then clean them up with 220 when I'm finished.



I then cut out the piece for the back and bottom. I thought that I had pictures of this. I know I meant to. With everything sanded I start gluing 3/16" triangles to 1/8" base and back. The spacer is 1/8". I'm using a gap filling cyano brand name "Zap a Gap".



This is one of the parts that are not drawn well on the plan and the base should have been about 3/16" longer. After the glue dries overnight I'll sand the ends to match the base and it'll be fine. You and I are the only ones who will know.


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## toyguy (Nov 23, 2007)

MrWoody said:


> *An easy push.*
> 
> Last night I photocopied a few parts from the plan and glued them to some 1/8" and 3/16" stock using Elmer's rubber cement. If you put this stuff on just one part to glue it just rolls off when you need. I tried spray adhesive but found it too messy.
> I'm making the counter weights for the wheels and the parts for the cow catcher.
> ...


Looking good Woody…...Old 99 is starting to take shape

I will have to try the rubber cement. I have been useing the yahoo glue sticks. These also work well.. Your right about the spray stuff; too messy, and too much sanding. 
.


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *An easy push.*
> 
> Last night I photocopied a few parts from the plan and glued them to some 1/8" and 3/16" stock using Elmer's rubber cement. If you put this stuff on just one part to glue it just rolls off when you need. I tried spray adhesive but found it too messy.
> I'm making the counter weights for the wheels and the parts for the cow catcher.
> ...


Thanks Toyguy. I found that the glue sticks hold too aggressively and I end up sanding more than I like.


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## mrtrim (Oct 11, 2007)

MrWoody said:


> *An easy push.*
> 
> Last night I photocopied a few parts from the plan and glued them to some 1/8" and 3/16" stock using Elmer's rubber cement. If you put this stuff on just one part to glue it just rolls off when you need. I tried spray adhesive but found it too messy.
> I'm making the counter weights for the wheels and the parts for the cow catcher.
> ...


looks like quite a nice project you got going on mr. woody !


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *An easy push.*
> 
> Last night I photocopied a few parts from the plan and glued them to some 1/8" and 3/16" stock using Elmer's rubber cement. If you put this stuff on just one part to glue it just rolls off when you need. I tried spray adhesive but found it too messy.
> I'm making the counter weights for the wheels and the parts for the cow catcher.
> ...


Chugging right along and lookin good!


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

MrWoody said:


> *An easy push.*
> 
> Last night I photocopied a few parts from the plan and glued them to some 1/8" and 3/16" stock using Elmer's rubber cement. If you put this stuff on just one part to glue it just rolls off when you need. I tried spray adhesive but found it too messy.
> I'm making the counter weights for the wheels and the parts for the cow catcher.
> ...


Looking great.


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*The bell tolls*

The counterweights mentioned in the last installment were done the same way as the cowcatcher parts. Substituting a spindle sander for the belt sander to sand the inside arc. They were centered on the wheel across from the small hole and glued. I also glued one wheel on each axle.



I photocopied the bell bracket and glued it to a piece of 1/4" walnut.



I cut and sanded part way down the piece on the outside line each side. Then using my jewelers drill I eyeballed the spot for the bell support rod and drilled a hole on each side past the inside line. Then bandsawed and sanded the inside of the bracket.



I used numbered drill bits to sneak up on the 3/32" hole that I needed. The jewelers drill will only hold a #46 bit; I need to get to #40/ 3/32". For the larger bits I chucked the bit in my cordless drill and turned the piece rather than squeezing the trigger. I also drilled a hole in the bell which I had turned earlier.
Using a round toothpick I checked for fit. FYI: a round toothpick is very close to 3/32".



Using the same drilling technique, I drilled the hole in the base.



Then I carefully sanded everything to 220. Next the very small rings for the bell support rod. I'm sure there are other ways to do this but I carefully drilled the end of a piece of 3/16" dowel and cut a couple of short pieces off.



After the dry fit; I glued the outside ends of the bell support rod.



The last piece on page 3 of the plan is the headlamp. Its just a 1" X 1" X 3/4" block with a 3/4" X ½" deep hole, a 1 ¼" X 1 1/8" X 1/8" thick, a 1/2" X 3/4" X 1/16", [email protected] 3/8" X 1/2" X 1/16", the piece we made in part 3, and a headlight from the parts kit.



Just glue them together following the plan.



That is page 2 and 3 of the plan finished.


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*The cabin*

On page 4 of the plan we have 2 assemblies, tracks and the cabin for the locomotive.
I already made enough track when I built my other locomotive. If you want to see how it's made you can go here.
For the cabin we have a front wall, 2 side walls, a roof, a boiler door and some trim.
I started with the boiler door. It's a block 2 7/8"x2 7/8"x 1 1/2" with a rounded top.
Then I cut the sides and front to size from1/4" stock. I marked and drilled the sides for the windows.



I then cut the windows out on the scroll saw and sanded.



I couldn't believe it, this took 5 hours.
Some glue and clamps and we're finished for today.


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*The cabin part 2*

I had a late start this morning. The power was off and I didn't have any light in the shop.
I cut a piece of 1/2" stock to the required dimensions. While I was using the table saw I cut a foot long piece 1 1/2" x 2" scrap 45° along the length for use later. I then drew a lot of layout lines to mark where the curve should start and end.



I stuck the roof to the scrap piece that was prepared earlier using double sided tape. I want the end of the piece to sit on the top of my spindle sander at 45° and started sanding to the profile needed paying attention to layout lines as close as possible.



Once both ends were finished to my satisfaction I started the top curve on the belt sander; again watching my layout lines.



When the top was profiled I sanded it smooth starting with a palm sander then by hand. I then glued the top on to the rest of the cabin.



The little bits of glue showing will be sanded off quite easily. I then photocopied the side trim pieces and glued them to some 1/8" maple stock.


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*Up hill and a strong head wind*

Today I'm finishing the cabin. A piece of 1/8" x 1" square and a piece of 1/8" x 1 1/4" square sandwiched together form the roof vent. The plaques for the sides were done the same way as the triangles for the cowcatcher. Then I took a piece of 1/8" maple and ripped a 1/16" piece using my thin strip jig. I then glued it all on the cabin.



I now need two 1 1/4" long pieces of 1" dowel. I cut the dowel and wasn't happy with the colour. It was cheap dowel from the lumber yard. I checked again hoping I would have a piece of maple; not! I have a piece of 7/8" maple but decided I couldn't get away with it. I guess I could turn a piece of maple. Wait! If I'm going to turn it, why not black walnut? In part 2 of this blog I mentioned a flub while turning one of the pieces. I took the over sized piece and chucked it up.



The picture has lightened the 2 pieces in the middle that are the cheap dowel.
And the finished black walnut pieces.



There was a lot of head scratching getting to this point and the day is gone.


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*Building steam*

After dry fitting all the previously made pieces I decided that I didn't like the look of the 1/8" thick plaques on the sides of the cabin so I pried them off and made new ones. I also decided that the walnut cylinders weren't right either.
I photocopied the side trim pieces again and glued them to maple and walnut 1/16" stock. I then used a Sharpie and made the lines on the walnut thicker inside.



These were then cut out the same way as the originals and glued to the cab.





Next I drilled a 1/4" hole through the centre of the re-made 1" cylinders and a 1/8" hole in 2 of the end caps as shown on the plan.



These were glued together. I'll finish drilling the 1/8" hole once the glue has set.



I did the layout, drilling and cut the cylinder mount to size.



Drilled, cut to length and sanded.


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*Spacing the wheels*

It's time we start gluing up some of the parts we have made. I drilled the 1/8" hole in the ends of the cylinders and glued a 3 1/2" piece of dowel in.



I glued the rest of the wheels on to the base using a spacer to allow them to ride on the rails. NOTE: The larger drive wheels are not glued at this time.



I glued the front and rear assemblies to the base. I used a piece of packaging plastic with a slot cut in it between the assembly and base. This allowed me to pound the axle pin into the hole. Sometimes they are very tight.





Here's a tip: Use a pair of pliers and squeeze the end of the dowel to form grooves for the glue. If you force the axle in without doing this, you will push all the glue out.
I then glued and clamped the floor of the cab to the base. In the picture you may see the cylinder mount. It is not glued yet. The front wheel assembly dowel has to be shortened slightly to fit under the mount.



Next up is the pilot beam. A piece of walnut 1/2" X 5/8" X 4 1/2" with layout lines for a 2" X 1/8" dado, 4 holes 3/8" deep, and rounded ends.



The finished pilot beam without some dowelling that has to wait until near the end of the project.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *Spacing the wheels*
> 
> It's time we start gluing up some of the parts we have made. I drilled the 1/8" hole in the ends of the cylinders and glued a 3 1/2" piece of dowel in.
> 
> ...


Fascinating!

Thank you for all of the details. I am not sure if this makes me want to build another toy or run the other way! :^)


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## Partridge (Jul 27, 2007)

MrWoody said:


> *Spacing the wheels*
> 
> It's time we start gluing up some of the parts we have made. I drilled the 1/8" hole in the ends of the cylinders and glued a 3 1/2" piece of dowel in.
> 
> ...


this is a neat little project.. any one that thinks little projects are easier then big ones, has never done one.. keep up good work


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*Coasting downhill*

I started this morning by cutting some 5/16" and 3/8" black walnut big enough to get 2 pieces for each plus a finger saver added to the length.
These have dados cut so that there is 1/8" material left.
The picture shows one of them cut to length. The other has the finger save left on.



They were then ripped to 5/16" wide to create the connecting rod and wheel linkage.



I created a piece of stock 7/8" X 3/8"much longer than I actually needed to make 2 piston connectors.



I cut a 1/8" wide by 3/4" in each end.



Next I cut and sanded a 3/4" X 3/8" notch on both ends.



At this point I drilled a 5/32" hole before I cut it shorter.



I then cut each end off at 1 1/2" and set up to drill a 5/32" and 1/8" hole in the ends.



I marked the connecting rod and wheel linkage to drill their 3/16" holes.



The finished pieces.



Next I dry fit an end cap on each end of a long piece of 3/16" dowel and marked the dowel at the cap. I then cut the dowel in half. I chucked one piece in the drill press and with a file turned the 3/16" dowel to 5/32" leaving the cap end at 3/16".
I then cut them to length and glued the end cap on. This pin is needed to connect the connecting rod and the wheel linkage to the wheel. They don't manufacture a 5/32" axle pin long enough.



A dry fit to check that things don't bind. I found that the dowel on the piston connector had to be shortened by about 3/16". That would be the dowel that goes into the cylinder from the connector.



Glue the cylinders to the mount and both to the base.



After dinner I'll take these clamps off. Then glue the boiler and cabin on the base and leave everything dry over night.


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## toyguy (Nov 23, 2007)

MrWoody said:


> *Coasting downhill*
> 
> I started this morning by cutting some 5/16" and 3/8" black walnut big enough to get 2 pieces for each plus a finger saver added to the length.
> These have dados cut so that there is 1/8" material left.
> ...


Looking real nice Woody…... Project is well documented.

I am really enjoying your Blog…....


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *Coasting downhill*
> 
> I started this morning by cutting some 5/16" and 3/8" black walnut big enough to get 2 pieces for each plus a finger saver added to the length.
> These have dados cut so that there is 1/8" material left.
> ...


Ditto what Brian said! I, too, am enjoying this!!

Lew


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *Coasting downhill*
> 
> I started this morning by cutting some 5/16" and 3/8" black walnut big enough to get 2 pieces for each plus a finger saver added to the length.
> These have dados cut so that there is 1/8" material left.
> ...


Very detailed blog, thank you for all the effort and photographs.


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*Full steam ahead*

I made a tool box that will go on the base between the boiler and the cowcatcher.
The plan calls for 7/8" X 5/8" X 1 5/8" with a peaked top and a 1/16" saw kerf to simulate the dividing line. I have never had much luck using a saw kerf as a dividing line, so I made 2 pieces 7/16" X 5/8" X 1 5/8". I sanded the peak on the belt sander. Then sanded a small round over where the 2 pieces would meet then glued them together.



We now move on to page 7 of the plan. We're building the tender. I cut a 1/2" piece of black walnut to 8 1/4" X 4 1/2" and drilled two 5/16" by 7/16" deep holes as indicated by the plan.



I only have a short piece of 3/4"maple 2" wide and am hoping to get four parts out of it so I cut all the pieces for the engine coupler and car coupler assemblies.



I did the layout on these all at the same time. I had made a coupler template when I was doing the rolling stock. Though the overall dimensions are slightly different I traced the coupler on its piece.





I drilled all the holes needed before cutting out the couplers.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *Full steam ahead*
> 
> I made a tool box that will go on the base between the boiler and the cowcatcher.
> The plan calls for 7/8" X 5/8" X 1 5/8" with a peaked top and a 1/16" saw kerf to simulate the dividing line. I have never had much luck using a saw kerf as a dividing line, so I made 2 pieces 7/16" X 5/8" X 1 5/8". I sanded the peak on the belt sander. Then sanded a small round over where the 2 pieces would meet then glued them together.
> ...


Very methodical, thank you for these great posts. These are helping me work up the gumption to try making some of these toys.


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*The couplers*

Before I left the shop last night, I drilled a 5/16" hole at the inside of the car coupler. This morning I cut, sanded, sanded, and sanded some more to shape both couplers.



I cut 4 axles to length and glued one wheel on each axle. Now I need 4 trim spacers. They are 1 3/8" X 5/8" X 3/8" with a 7/32" hole and a 45° cut on one end.



Now I need to make four wheel trims. On the plan there are 9 dimensions and 2 diameters and I could do the layout.



But these are full size plans, so I just photocopied and glued.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *The couplers*
> 
> Before I left the shop last night, I drilled a 5/16" hole at the inside of the car coupler. This morning I cut, sanded, sanded, and sanded some more to shape both couplers.
> 
> ...


Can't wait to see the completed engine.

Just curious, How are you going to finish this piece? It seems that so much of the engine is permanently assembled- as you go- that it will be difficult to apply finish to some of the "buried" parts.

Lew


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *The couplers*
> 
> Before I left the shop last night, I drilled a 5/16" hole at the inside of the car coupler. This morning I cut, sanded, sanded, and sanded some more to shape both couplers.
> 
> ...


Lew, I will be using an airbrush and water based poly. I use the airbrush so that I can control the amount and where the finish goes. There are a lot of pieces that have to be able to move after the finish is applied.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *The couplers*
> 
> Before I left the shop last night, I drilled a 5/16" hole at the inside of the car coupler. This morning I cut, sanded, sanded, and sanded some more to shape both couplers.
> 
> ...


Thanks!

I built the articulated tractor some time ago and sprayed some of the parts and hand finished others with water based poly, too. It did not have nearly the number of moving parts as your engine.

Your posts are really interesting because I have picked up many techniques that I wished I had when I built the tractor.

Lew


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*Trimmin' the wheels*

This morning I cut and drilled the wheel trim pieces.



Looking at the 3/8" square cuts I thought that I would try not using the scroll saw. So I dug out my 3/8" hollow mortising chisel and took the auger out. Using a soft blow mallet I tried chopping out the squares.



It didn't work. There was a lot of tear out on the back side. Four more photocopies, more drilling and on to the scroll saw.



I used diagonal cutters to shorten the 5/32" axle pins to a little over 1/8".



Then they were glued into the wheel trim pieces and sanded flat on the back



Then the trim and trim spacer were glued on to the wheel assemblies using a 7/32" axle pin.



After cutting 5/16" axle pins to 1 1/2" long I glued the wheel assemblies to the tender base.


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## toyguy (Nov 23, 2007)

MrWoody said:


> *Trimmin' the wheels*
> 
> This morning I cut and drilled the wheel trim pieces.
> 
> ...


Nice work…...You do get an early start on the day don't ya …LOL.


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

MrWoody said:


> *Trimmin' the wheels*
> 
> This morning I cut and drilled the wheel trim pieces.
> 
> ...


just amazing


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## LesHastings (Jan 26, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *Trimmin' the wheels*
> 
> This morning I cut and drilled the wheel trim pieces.
> 
> ...


Nice job! Wish I had time to make projects like this.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *Trimmin' the wheels*
> 
> This morning I cut and drilled the wheel trim pieces.
> 
> ...


The little engine that could!

Thanks for the instructions!

Lew


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*Into the home stretch.*

Last night I photocopied the side trim pieces for the tender and glued them to 1/16" maple and black walnut stock.



Then I cut the pieces for the side panels, back, side rack, back rack and the water tank. The side panels and back from 3/8" stock and the side and back rack from 1/4" stock. The water tank is a block 3 3/8" long X 2" wide and 2 1/4" high.



After laying out several lines I drilled two 7/8" by 1 1/4" deep.



I then cut and sanded the angles for the water tank.



I then drew layout lines for the corner cuts on the side panels and the side racks.



Glue and clamps; we are finished for today.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *Into the home stretch.*
> 
> Last night I photocopied the side trim pieces for the tender and glued them to 1/16" maple and black walnut stock.
> 
> ...


Can't Wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## MrWoody (Jan 25, 2008)

*End of the line*

The first thing I did this morning is glue the side and water tank assembly to the base and set it aside to dry.



Next I cut out and sanded the side trim pieces the way I did them for the cab.
On pages 5 and 6 of the plan we skipped the dowels. I set up a board with a V groove and guide marks on the drill press. With a centering bit I found the center and clamped it firmly.



I need eight boiler rail posts 3/16" dowel 3/4" long with a 3/32" hole drilled 1/8" from one end.



From past experience I know that these need to be a loose fit so I sanded them until they were loose.



I then glued them in place.



I took the clamps off the tender and glued and clamped the side rack assembly on to it and set it aside. When it is dried I'll glue the side trim on.



I finished the day by gluing the rest of the pieces on the locomotive. After a day of cleanup I'll spray the locomotive and tender using an air brush.



The finished Locomotive is here.


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## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *End of the line*
> 
> The first thing I did this morning is glue the side and water tank assembly to the base and set it aside to dry.
> 
> ...


Your doing a great job I wish I had the patience of working with delicate work like that, is it going to be for sale?......I would love to have it in my collection


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## toyguy (Nov 23, 2007)

MrWoody said:


> *End of the line*
> 
> The first thing I did this morning is glue the side and water tank assembly to the base and set it aside to dry.
> 
> ...


If I know Woody…and I think I do…everything is for sale for a price !!

Looking great Woody. Your attention to fine detail and methods are outstanding.


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

MrWoody said:


> *End of the line*
> 
> The first thing I did this morning is glue the side and water tank assembly to the base and set it aside to dry.
> 
> ...


Amazing work on an amazingly detailed project. Thanks for the detailed descriptions and the great photos.


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