# Pen Turning



## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

*Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*

*Overview*

There are a number of people who have indicated they would like to know more about what it takes to turn pens. There are quite a few very good pen turners who are members of our community. My intent is go get an overview out there to encourage more people to give it a try. I'm hoping some of the other pen turners will add to this and we can get more people turning. It really is quite simple and very rewarding.

What I like about turning pens is the ability to finish a project in a short period of time. Given my work schedule, I'm finding it hard to get time to complete longer projects. This is a good way to spend an hour in the shop and feel like I accomplished something. You can actually complete a project or two.

*Suppliers*

There are a number of suppliers of pen kits and pen turning supplies. Woodcraft, Rockler, Craft Supplies USA, Penn State Industries are a few that I have delt with.

*Resources*

There are a couple of books and videos that I recommend. I own all of these and have found them very useful.


Penn State Industries *free *Pen Turning DVD. You cannot beat the price on this basic introduction to pen turning. You can order it directly off the web in under 3 minutes.
Turning Pens And Pencils by Kip Christensen and Rex Burningham. Every thing you could want to know about pen turning. Lots of ideas for making jigs in stead of throwing $30 or $40 per pop for them at Woodcraft or Rockler.
Videos that go with the Turning Pens and Pencils book

*Materials*

You can turn pens from a wide variety of materials and the suppliers are adding to the list all of the time. Some items that can be turned include wood, antler, plastics, alunimum, corian, corn cob, bone, etc.

When you are starting out I recommend you get a pen blank assortment from Woodcraft. This will give you a variety of wood to play with. As you advance, I recommend purchasing a few board feet of wood that interests you and then cut your own blanks.

The wood I am going to use for this pen is some Texas Ebony provided by BlueStingrayBoots. He was nice enough to mail me this wood to play with.



There is a very large variety of pen kits available. To work with a particular pen kit, you need to purchase the kit, a set of bushings for the kit, and one or more drill bits as required for the kit. In addition to styles there is a wide range of quality for the different kits. Cheaper kits are less durable and prone to losing their plating. I have seen kits from under $2 to $60 or more.

When you start out I recommend keeping to a few styles of kits and adding to them over time. This will keep the cost down. The basic start kit is a 7mm slim line pen kit these are the easiest to learn and are very inexpensive.

For this pen I am using a cigar pen kit from woodcraft. It takes a 10mm drill bit. Normally it is recommended that you use brad point or bullet point bits to help keep the wood blanks from blowing out when you drill them. In the following photograph, you can see the pen kit, bushings and instructions, drill bit, barrel trimmer used to square pen blanks, counter sink tool, and a MT#2 Pen Mandrel.



The pen kits come with a variety of parts including a pair of brass tubes. The first step in the process is to review the instructions and ensure you have the correct drill bits and your blank is large enough for the type of pen your trying to turn.



Next you take the tubes and rough them up with some 150 grit sandpaper to make them ready for glue. I then take the tubes and a sharpie and mark out the wood blank. As a side note these are round because this is the way they were when Boots sent them to me. Normally, pen blanks are square.



I make the horizontal marks so that I can align the parts in the mandril correctly. Also, I would normally would start at one end of the blank, but I was setting aside a piece for a pill holder.

The next step is to cut the blanks to length. I'm using the miter gauge on my bandsaw, but you could easily use a hand saw if you did not have a bandsaw available.



Once you have the blanks to lenght you then need to drill holes for the brass tubes. I'm using a commercial jig that I got at woodcraft. Also I place the center part of the blanks towards the top. These are the ends with the horizontal lines on them. You need to be careful and make sure that you clear the chips out frequently. Depending on the material, it is easy to blow out the side of the blank.



Here is a close-up



And what the hole looks like



The next step is to glue the tubes into the blanks



I'm using CA glue. I coat the tubes in glue, insert them to the outside ends (opposite with the horizontal lines from above) turn it around in the tube to spread glue then insert the tube into the other end. I insert them just inside of the end. Then spray both ends with the accellerator. What I am trying to do is align the grain between the two parts to the best of my ability.

The next step is to make the ends of the pen blank square to the tubes. This is done with the pen mill. There are different size pen mills that match the inner diameter of the tube your kit requires. In this case I am using a 10 MM mill.

I put the blank in a vice.



Put the mill in a hand drill



Then square the end



Here is what it looks like when done



The next thing I am going to do is put the blanks in the mandril, rough them out, and part of the end for a bloodwood accent.



Note how the horizontal lines were aligned in the photo above.

After about 45 seconds on the lathe you have this.



Next. I will add the bloodwood and finish turning the pen.


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## Treefarmer (Mar 19, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


Good start Wayne. I wish I didn't alraedy have so much on my plate….I want to go turn a pen now.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


Thanks Bob. I should be finished with this segment in 15 or 20 minutes.


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## PanamaJack (Mar 28, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


I'm waiting for the final here Wayne. By this Fall I want to be turning! I am scheduling a lesson at the Indy Rockler Store in two weeks.

Just finished up on cleaning up my "new" Jet 1236. (to me that is) I have been trying to refurbish it for about two months now. It took a while for me to knock the rust off, and work the regular job at the same time. Fortunately most was surface type rust. It had been sitting in an unheated barn in southern Indiana for 8 years idle. Until it found a new home that is. It's looking and acting fairly well now. I had a lathe turning "pro", from our local woodworking club here, come over lSunday afternoon to try it out. He says it's doing very well for it's size. It's something to start with anyway.

For some reason I am all of a sudden into fixing tools nobody wants…..Because they're cheaper is the main reason.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


I will post the other half of this tomorrow night. Need to get a few other things done tonight. I'm guessing you will really like it PanamaJack. You may want to set aside some cash for basic pen turning gear when you take the class.

Sounds like a good plan on the Jet Lathe, I love restoring machines and tools. It is a good way to get a deal if your careful.


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## mot (May 8, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
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> ...


Wayne! Thanks you! This is just fantastic!


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## David (Jan 26, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
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Wayne -

Thanks! I am sure I am going to get into more trouble following this outstanding posting (and hopefully . . . blog series!). As you know this is an interest of mine . . . just lacking a lathe (a temporary situation).

Looking forward to more . . .

David


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
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Mot and David, your welcome.

Lathes are almost as slippery a slope as festool…


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## bbrooks (Jan 3, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
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> ...


Great job Wayne! This helps de-mystify the pen building mystic so everyone can start turning them. You may have a bunch of competition soon!

I think the lathe is an even more slippery slope than the Festool. Once you turn something, you get hooked.


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


Great Job Wayne. I use 5 minute epoxy to glue the tubes in. I mix it up and can do 4 - 5 pens sets before the glue sets up. So I only mix a small amount, but I find that it works great.


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## m1garand (Apr 5, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
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> ...


Great write-up. Close to the procedure I use.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


Bill, competition is good. I turn purely for the fun of it. No intention to ever sell anything.

Great tip Karson, with CA you have to be real careful or you end up with a tube stuck half way in or your fingers stuck to the tube for that matter.

Thanks M1garand. Have you posted any photos of your pens yet? I would like to see them.


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## coloradoclimber (Apr 7, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
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> ...


Excellent post wayne, thanks for taking the time to put it together.

After reading various posts about pen making I'm thinking I'll want to take a turn. I've been looking at the small Jet but thinking I should at least surf craigslist for a while before I drop the money on a new one.

thanks again


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## woodspar (Mar 6, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


Again, thanks Wayne. (read 2nd installment first.)


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## WeeWilly (Apr 7, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


Nice job on the instructional…...I use "Gorilla Glue" on the brass barrels as it fills any voids inside the blanks. This glue takes about 24 hours to dry so you can make as prepare as many pen blanks ahead as you want. You might want to use rubber gloves while handling Gorilla Glue, as it will stain your fingers. As for drilling the pen blanks, on the larger sizes, I usually leave pen blank an extra 1/2 inch in length. You go ahead and drill the blanks to the depth needed while making sure to clear the drill often, then cut off the excess blank to the barrel length. This way, you don't get as many "blow-outs", just a technique I picked up on various websites. As for lathes, I use a Jet variable speed 14"....enough power, easy to change speeds, takes up minimal space, and only cost $ 300.00, including free shipping from Amazon.com .


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## Sawdust2 (Mar 18, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


I've seen a couple of different posts and posters who put the mill in a power drill.

I just made a wooden handle and trim it by hand. As I often get down to the brass tube quickly I wonder how you control the power drill to not mill off too much.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


Thanks Wee Willy. Great advise.

Xavier, I think it is a matter of getting used to it and applying slight pressure. I've found if your careful it is not too difficult to control.


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## DonnaMenke (Sep 20, 2006)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


I'm one of the wusses who use a drill press with the mill. Makes it a lot easier on the arm joints and muscles. Donna (delicate little female. . .hah!)


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
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> ...


Donna, are you sanding on the drill press or using turning tools?


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## MsDebbieP (Jan 4, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


hahaha "delicate little female"-love it.


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## Sawdust2 (Mar 18, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


So, Donna 
Does that make you a power woodworker?


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## jiri (Dec 18, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


Looks simple. Thanks for sharing.


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## Mr2A (Mar 28, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
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very, very nice!...I'm a Rookie Pen Turner myself, I've implemented Pen Turning in 2 of my Wood Shop classes and the kids are going wild over the pens! What a blast!. Can't wait to see you finished project.


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## Beard (Dec 24, 2013)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


I just started turning pens as gifts and making a little $$


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 1*
> 
> *Overview*
> 
> ...


Very nice.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

*Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*

In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.

To do this I took a bloodwood scrap and drilled the center. I then took a spare brass tube put it on the pen mill and squared one end to the hole. This allows the part to mate seamlessly to the piece on the tube.



Next is cut off a short piece to glue onto the tube. I am using a clamp to keep my fingers away. I probably could have cut this one a bit shorter.



Here is the cutoff.



Now I glue it back on with CA and then use the barrel trimmer to trim down to the tube and square the end. Then everything goes back on the lathe.



Next I carefully turn the piece back to round. I'm using a 3/8 spindle gouge and normally work fairly quickly until I'm close to the bushings.



Next you turn it down to to where it is slightly proud of the bushings. By slightly I mean that I allow enough material to be removed when I sand that the ends are flush with the bushing. Each bushing represents where the part will mate when you press it together. As you get close you also want to get as smooth a finish as possible. One day I will master the skew and not have to worry about it.



Below are some of the items I use for sanding and finishing. The sandpaper strips is available from most suppliers and has grits from 150 to 400. I'm using Mylands friction polish. I have the sanding sealer out but not using it on this pen. Also, is one of Don's recommended turning items Shellawax finish. It is a wax with grit in it that is used prior to using the friction polish.



The next step is to sand the pen. This is done while the lathe is spinning. I start with 150 grit sandpaper and work to 320 on this pen. Then I switch to micro mesh and continue up to 3500 grit.



Then I coat the pen with Friction Polish and using a paper towel buff it until it gets hot in my fingers. This sets the polish. On this pen I used two coats.



There are a number of ways to press the parts of the pen together. You lay the parts out according to the instructions and press them together on by one. I'm using a pen press from Woodcraft, but there are many ways to do this that do not require a commercial tool. This includes a bench vice, clamps or your drill press.



Here is a closer view of the press in action.



And one of the pen in it's case.



I encourage everyone who has a lathe to give this a try and those of you considering the purchase one more reason to consider it.

My intent with this pen was to see how the Texas Ebony looked and turned and not so much the pen itself. I really liked the way the wood looks and turns. When I turn pens with wood with intersting grain or figure I normally will use a larger model of pen. This way I can show off the wood. I'm planning to gets a few board feet next time BlueStingRayBoots mills some.


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## mot (May 8, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Wayne, this is just an awesome Howto for pen turning. I really appreciate the time that you went through to document your obvious skill in this task…or should I say, art form. The pen came out great.

When you are sanding how careful do you have to be sanding around the bushings? Can you affect the tolerances of later pens, or is it such fine grit sanded so lightly that it isn't affecting that. Sorry for the stupid question, just wondering.

Tom


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Thanks Tom.

Good point. Over time you can sand the bushings down if your not careful. I replace my bushings periodically on pens that I turn a lot. Also, I should describe the sanding process. After you sand each grit, stop the lathe and sand along the length of the pen to remove any scratches before moving to the next grit.


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## woodspar (Mar 6, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Thanks Wayne. I do not have a lathe but thanks for spending the time to document this process. I appreciate it.


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## BlueStingrayBoots (Jun 11, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Thankyou Wayne, I appreciate the lesson. Its not quite what I thought, now I'm clear on how to do it quikly, easily and correct.


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Thanks Wayne… Great intro in the two blogs. I have always been curious about this.. Most of the arts and crafts stuff I like has zero turning in it so a lathe has not been on my list, but pens…. Mini-lathe hmm….

Question: Is pen blank wood somewhat green?


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Your welcome John. Keep your eyes open on CraigsList for a mini lathe.

Pen blank wood is normally dried and stable. Green wood tends to check.


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## bbrooks (Jan 3, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Great blog Wayne! I bet we see pens popping up all over Lumberjocks site now.


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## WeeWilly (Apr 7, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Great pen…and great hands-on visual of how to make this pen. Have you considered making a video of this process….it might sell very well. Thanks for the detailed instructions.


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Thanks Willy. I do not have a video camera yet. So, that kinds of limits me. I posted a couple of links to pen turning DVDs in the part 1. One of them is Free.


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## bbrooks (Jan 3, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Well selling your a video would allow you to pay for that video camera. Several sites offer DVDs on pen turning and such, so why not LJ DVDs?


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## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Several folks have mentioned that they like pen-turning because they can complete a project in the shop in one session. The other nice thing is, these projects can be sold to others (co-workers, etc.) without a huge marketing plan and at a value that is affordable to a wide audience. When I had the pen-turning fire going, I managed to sell enough to pay off the mini-lathe. Another reason to jump in!


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## WayneC (Mar 8, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Thanks Bill, I getting similar messages in PM.

Doug, you do some real high quality work. I bet they sell well.


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## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


I kinda dropped off after I buttonholed everyone I knew, and went to a gallery to set up some sales. She wanted to do a 70-30 split. And she got the 70%. Now I mostly gift them. But they are an impressive gift. I often cringe about giving craft-y things (Oh, thanks so much for the appliqué T-shirt -yeeeyuh), but pens seem to be universally well received.


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## jiri (Dec 18, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Good lesson. Thanks.


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## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the write-up. The pen looks great.


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## Sawdust2 (Mar 18, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Duh! I could've had a V8.

I while back I started cutting my blanks a little long so they wouldn't bust out when I was drilling them. Then I threw away the extra piece when I re-cut it to size. (Most blanks are long enough that the extra length is gong to be lost anyway, even if you are careful when you drill and can cut them close to finished length.)

This is a great way to use those cutoff pieces for contrast.


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## Mr2A (Mar 28, 2007)

WayneC said:


> *Intro to Pen Turning - Part 2*
> 
> In this part I'm intending to finish the cigar pen I started last time. I'm going to add a bloodwood accent to the writing end of the pen.
> 
> ...


Beautiful! thanks so much for the pics!


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