# Table Apron/Skirt to Leg Joint



## langski93 (Dec 31, 2008)

Except for cutting rough lumber to length, all work is being done with hand tools.

I am dimensioning material for a dining room table. It will be 78" in length and 30" to top of table. The legs will be tapered from a 3" square billet.

The top will be a heavy piece of walnut made from 3 boards. The width of the top will net out at least 38" and possible as wide as 40". I have not worked out all of the dimensions, but the apron will be 3.5" to 4" wide.

I am trying to decide if I should use M+T joint or sliding dovetail to connect the apron to the legs. I see sliding dovetail used on smaller tables and question if the scale of this piece is too large for that connection. I am concerned about the downward wedging action of the dovetail on the leg. In theory, if left unglued, the joint has the potential to be freed up if/when the table is ever moved. M+T joints, pinned or not are fixed.

All thoughts, suggestions and alternatives are appreciated.

Misc. 
Does anyone else make a distinction between a table apron and a skirt? I saw a diagram where the width piece was labelled as a skirt and the longitudinal piece was labelled an apron. I just refer to both as an an apron.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

I'd go w/ M&T. It is tried and true, larger glue surface.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

What Bondo said^^^^^^^


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

What Fred Hargis said.

http://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/35802/can-mortise-and-tenon-joints-be-strong-without-glue










Just something I read. I have no practical experience.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

I'd go with the haunched M&T, drawbored. I've only built two tables ever, but this approach has worked out very well for me. I don't have clamps long enough for the sides, so apply a little glue to the joint, whack in the pegs, and move on, no clamps required, and a little extra peace of mind.

Edit : Not sure what the location this is ending up in is like, but you have made sure that you can get a table of this size, with non-removable legs, into the destination, correct?


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## langski93 (Dec 31, 2008)

Thanks everyone. Alaskaguy I never considered the lateral split between joints like the diagram, but I can see it happening with the illustration you provided. My original concern was more of lengthwise split. Yours is just another reason to avoid the sliding dovetail.

I will be using an M&T with draw boarded pins based on the feedback.

BinghamtonEd, yes it will go through the two doorways I need to pass. Measuring that was one of the first things I did. When I was first married I bought a couch, dragged it home and then dragged it back after I could not get it up a set of stairs. The good ol'days


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