# work bench disaster



## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

Hi, i had the bright Idea of trimming the edge of my work bench to even the surface but I screwed it up, now it is worse than ever. I need a flat surface for a twin screw vice. Is there an save to this thanks Mike


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

You could take the top "off", trim the whole front with a straight edge and saw (looks like that's what you might have tried?), and glue an additional piece to bring it up to width,


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

that would be an incredibly hard job and i don't know if I could get it put back together. Butr yea that would be the way to go


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

Another alternative is to rotate the workbench around and use the other side as your clamping front


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

Flip it on it's back, rig up a router sled or plane it smooth the lamenate a face board on the front, easy peasy


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

here is a picture of the edge, it looks just a little wavy but look at the thickness of the 2×4 at each end. I put a long straightedge on it and it is about3/8ths off on the far end. Any way to fill some of the gap


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## Hermit (Oct 9, 2014)

Add a temporary brace below.
Unbolt and remove the top ledger.
Rent a beam saw so your top can be cut in one pass.
Plane your unbolted ledger to the thickness you need.
Repeat on remaining sides as needed.


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## AMZ (Jan 27, 2020)

First, I would remove the lower 2 X 4 (the one with lag bolts), and either use a hand plane or a powered planer, reduce the thickness to clean up the mess on it. Now, use your handplane to dress the top piece. Match the lower piece to the top and re-assemble. Not hard and won't take that long (only a bit of sweat).


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Lay it on its side. Get it reasonable flat. Add or laminate a new piece.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> that would be an incredibly hard job and i don t know if I could get it put back together. Butr yea that would be the way to go
> 
> - Karda


Why is it incredibly hard? The top isn't that large and it looks like spruce 2×4's. If you can't handle the weight can you get some help?

You're only other alternative is to resaw a straight line, chisel or plane the remainder flush, and glue another board on.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Time to break out the jack plane. If you cannot get it quite smooth enough for the vise, you can add a new face to it. Adding a face might not be a bad idea anyway so that you can replace it as it as it gets beat up with use and abuse.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

I tend to agree with Andre on the router sled idea.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

thanks for the suggestions. First off I don't have a router so thats out, I said it would be hard because the back legs are bolted the an iron framed work bench and if I start taking it apart I am not sure If I can put it back together like I took it apart. What is a ledger. 
Another idea, what if I knocked off the screwed up 2x and replaced it with a new one. i don't see that removing the one thats laged in will hurt, I may leave it off


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I think that I would lay the whole thing on its side and try using a hand plane before I decided to deconstruct anything. You can't really make it any worse and it will be a good time to improve your hand plane skills. Be mindful of grain direction and use your new block plane for any knots or difficult areas. The pine or spruce should be pretty easy to work. You can then decide if you want to attach a new face over the entire end.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I think that is the way I am going to go. i f there are any gaps will a filler work.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I suppose you could level any remaining divots with bondo or some other filler but it might not be necessary as long as it is basically flat.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Yes, please use a jack plane and clean it up. it's what that tool does! Remove those lags if you have to, while planing, or just increase the countersink 1/8" so you'd don't hit them.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I took off that lower 2x however I need a grain check. Should I plane this board from right to left facing the bench top pic is left bottom right thanks Mike


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## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

It looks like right to left is going to work best. You may still see some tear out in a few spots around the knots. Its hard to tell but it looks like some circle grain around a couple of the knots. Those areas always give me minor fits. But its a workbench so I assume flat and square is more important than shiny and smooth.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

thanks that is what I thought but grain direction reading still confuses me a, little tear out won't hurt.


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## sansoo22 (May 7, 2019)

On doug fir and spruce I call these the spear points. I learned the hard way to never plane at them. If I wouldn't run at a guy holding a spear I shouldn't plane towards these.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

thanks that is a good way to remember that. I just realized that where I start planing is where I want to plane down to any suggestions thanks Mike


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## AMZ (Jan 27, 2020)

What Bandit says! Also, since you have quite a bit of material to plane, it might help if you post what kind of plane you have. Also, what is your sharpening experience.

Bear in mind, this is a workbench - use this to gain experience for your future woodworkig! This bench ain't a church piano!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Just remember that the grain direction can be a problem around the knots so you may have to change directions there. If it is really bad, I will use my block plane to smooth those and any other areas where the grain just would not cooperate. It is also pretty common to have the spear points change direction in the middle somewhere and you may have to plane out from the point in both directions. This is a great opportunity to experiment and learn.


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

It's just a work bench. I could fix that with a belt sander and 50 grit…


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

Hand plane would be my choice, or failing that, a belt sander would work.

It's a workbench made out of construction lumber, not a museum piece.

Plane from right to left, as suggested above. Don't overthink it.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

Use a hand plane;
Don't try to take heavy shavings. You will see in which direction you have to plane.
No tear out can be worst than this.
Hurry up and machinery: greater risk.
Take your time.


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## xeddog (Mar 2, 2010)

Maybe you could take it someplace. See if you can find a large woodworking shop in your area and ask them.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

Handplane but you may need to get a jointer plane to get the entire front flat and true. I haven't made mine yet but a set of winding sticks is on my project list. I was reading how to make and use in "The New Traditional Woodworker" by Jim Tolpin. Stay well away from those bolts with the plane or another catastrophe will be in the making.


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I got my planing done, very easy, I turned the table around. When i was unbloting the table I noticed how flat the back is so I turned it. I don't get out of planing that end of the table has a dip in the end grain that has to flattened for the vise


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## BrianA (Feb 8, 2010)

Bolt a 1 X on the front


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## BrianA (Feb 8, 2010)

OOPs too late


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

thats ok that was an option I considered.I flattened and sanded the top, and started planing the end grain. The end you see in the above picture is where I want to mount my moxon vise the width of the top is 2/78ths thick and the vise chop 3 1/2" wide. f I center the screw on the center linne of the chop that puts the screw almost to the lower edge of the top. any ideas thanks Mike


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## Karda (Nov 19, 2016)

I Have a fairly flat side. but the center line of the vise chop is close to the lower part of the face 2×4. Pictured is where it will be when I drill my 3/4" hole for the vise screw.The horizontal line is the center line of the chop. I marked the approximate position of the 3/4" hole. is that ok or should I do something else. i am putting a 1×6 face over this to make a smooth surface thanks Mike


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