# Using Watco Danish Oil (Natural), then General Gel Satin Top Coat



## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

Building a Bed; full size, and a Dresser; 9 drawers.
Hard Maple and Cherry.
Using Watco Danish Natural Oil, applied flooded…wait, apply again, wait, wipe.
Wait 1 week.
Apply Gel Top-Coat, wipe on and wipe off, Satin. 2 coats.
This leaves an unbelievable satin hand-rubbed finish that beg's to be touched.
It resembles Sam Maloof's Oil & Wax method, but easier.
Bad ass!


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

I NEVER, EVER, STAIN WOOD.
REFUSED JOBS BECAUSE the customer wanted me to stain some Walnut.
No way, Hose'hey


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## NiteWalker (May 7, 2011)

I agree on not staining wood. 

What gel topcoat did you use?
The term is new to me. I've heard of gel stains, but not gel topcoats.

You should post pics of the bed.


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

General Finishes Top Coat


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

all I do is wipe it on with Blue Shop Towels, an wipe it off, let it dry 1 hour, and do it again


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## Danpaddles (Jan 26, 2012)

I started using Gel top coat (not a stain, the OP did not say stain, right?) this past year. It is a Gen. Finishes product, bought on the advice of the Rockler Mgr. I too start with Watco, but I do not flood/ wait flood/ wipe. More like, lightly flood, wipe in 30 minutes. Next day, wipe it with a watco soaked rag. Wait a day or two, then start with the gel. Yes, it makes a nice finish. I still top it off with wax of course. Only slightly easier than Sam's method. Less hassle than handling Waterlox.

like this, but use the satin plain one- http://www.generalfinishes.com/retail-products/oil-base-wood-stains-sealers/oilbase-gel-stains


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

I have a set of pics in the build stage, I haven't routed and mortised it yet.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/42831


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

I recommend that you DO NOT use any stain on a wood species. If they want a color of sorts convince them to go for a wood that accents there desire.
I don't like to color any of my projects, I'd rather use a darker or lighter wood.
I sand plywood to a 220g only, mostly for a faux panel or whtevr you do, if I go any furthr; 320g, I get a plastic look.
As far as hardwood goes it depends, but I start 150/maybe 120, 150g usually because my blades cut so smooth…
Then I go 180g, clean good, then 220g softly and clean up good afterward; vacuum and tack-cloth, all the while the Air Filter above me is doing it's thing.
Finish away.
(my laptop type pad keeps on throwing my page to the top as I am typing, weird)


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## RussellAP (Feb 21, 2012)

I've been using General Finishes Arm-R-Seal on a rec from Charles Neil and I really like it. I have been working with cedar, which I plane and sand with 80g abranet then finish with 150 abranet. The finish comes out with out blotching on the 150 yet still absorbs better than when I sanded out to 320g. I think Watco Danish oil natural and Cabott Tung oil are my mainstays now.


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## rance (Sep 30, 2009)

I'll have to try this method.

Steve, make sure you have enough room on the page for typing by clicking the 'I need more room' tab below where you type.


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

It's just me "I" don't care for staining, but really, if my customer want's to pay, I'll color it with a crayon if they want it, ha. It's their project…I just try to discourage hiding the natural state. But again, I have seen some VERY beautiful stained projects, and if it applies to the job at hand then stain away I guess.
my four-cents


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## whitebeast88 (May 27, 2012)

i've started using danish oil natural a few weeks ago for the first time and really love it.i use mostly pine now since i'm still learning,but i'm experimenting with danish oil,blo and the such.thanks for sharing your technique i'll try this on my next project!!!


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

your welcome.
I read a comment where someone (danpaddles?) lightly floods then wipes 30 mins later…and so on…I think I will try that next too, sounds a little better than my way somewhat…
Here it is:
"I too start with Watco, but I do not flood/ wait flood/ wipe. More like, lightly flood, wipe in 30 minutes. Next day, wipe it with a watco soaked rag. Wait a day or two, then start with the gel. Yes, it makes a nice finish. I still top it off with wax of course."


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## Danpaddles (Jan 26, 2012)

As to the blanket statements against stain- ever seen QS white oak with a little dark stain added to it? Really helps that pretty grain to 'pop'. Nothing wrong with stain or dye in the right place. Steve has it right- if it applies, stain away.

Windsor chairs are at the top of the heap when it comes to projects. They still paint those.


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## steve6678 (Oct 4, 2012)

I actually grew up staining in my Grand-Pa's shop, 1970, I was 4, I loved Gramps. He used to cut EVERYTHING with a hand saw. For real. Straightest lines I'd ever seen.
He, stained wood…
I am Portuguese….He liked to stain pine, and elm. Remember Elm.
Well, he worked with it, and stained it…or shellac'd, Varn'd.
He's my Hero, next to my Dad, who brought me up to be a Carpenter and a soldier.
I learned lessons as a kid, work. Work. and…work.


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