# Mastercraft Hawkeye laser review



## RedShirt013

Always nice to read a canadian tool review

I've got one of these basic saw some years ago, no sliding table, no rip extension, no outfeed table. The tabletop is aluminum but with tons of grooves topside, presumably to save material. Fence is out of plane depending on where you lock it down, and mitre gauge and fence are POS.

Looks like they've made some improvements nowadays and much more usable

Like you my expectation of any WW powertools from CT is not very high, and wouldn't count on it for precision. The Maximum stuff seems alright though.


----------



## Routerisstillmyname

An odd thing for me is not being able to use the rip fence on the left side of the table..

In what circumstances would you want to use it on the left?
Never seen anyone use it that way.

THX


----------



## BeachedBones

Using the fence on the left is occasionally preferred by me… Maybe it's just me, I'm pretty much self taught anyways, and it seems as natural an option to me as anything. I'll try to give some examples and reasons.

1) When ripping long and heavy stock, I prefer to push the wood using my dominant right arm, and guide with my left arm. On the right side of the table this would push my left hand in a path crossing the blade. On the left I'm clear and I can side step the table a bit to keep far from the chip/kickback path, and move to steady/support the stock on the outfeed.

2) I use a lot of reference marks on the piece based on other pieces, or space i'mfilling. In lining up piece to piece sometimes the marks are flipped mirror image style. It's easier and more accurate for me to flip to the left rather than transfer the marks so I can see them in proper orrientation. IN other words my marks might be on the backside of the wood cutting from the right, and face side cutting from the left.

3) similar issue as above, but in consideration to keeping a face side up to leave cleaner cuts, and not get scuffed by my old table. Sometimes with odd shaped pieces you can't really flip back to front on one side (without drawing the wood backwards into the blade, yikes)

4) sometimes depending on the saw, and with smaller pieces, the table insert isn't flush with the top, and can cause some minor height changes or binding skipping. The left side can have a flatter surface closer to the blade.

5) Occasionally I've chosen to bevel off a corner along the length of a piece of wood, On the right side taking a bit off will pinch the offcut under the blade and the work piece can ride on the blade a bit giving some inconsistency and pressure on the blade. On the left side the offcut is free, the feed of the wood is cleaner. The only thing is you risk the workpiece being bound and shot back under the blade. so I make sure to have a good hold (w pushstick) and skew the fence away from the blade. I know it sounds a bit unsafe, but the feal I get off it feals more secure and consistent.

6) sometimes in my shop the other stuff can be in the way for certain pieces being cut in odd ways. Sometimes it's a bit easier to go left hand than move the stuff, make the cut, move it back so it's not in the way of the next cut.

7) using the mitre guage on profiled stock, I prefer to angle back from the blade than angle foreward to the blade, it just feels less jumpy to me for some reason.

Simply put, it comes down more to preference and habit, than HAVING to use the left side. Any table I've seen without a built in sled is built to be used lefty too.


----------



## a1Jim

Great review


----------



## Routerisstillmyname

THX for explanation. it's definitely a habit thing then ;-)


----------



## GMman

I have seen that saw very nice saw but it is direct drive and has the same 13 amps motor as their base model which doesn't last to long.


----------



## BeachedBones

Very true, I've heard it bog down while chewing up some apple wood already… I've also found that I've had to modify the Mitre sled by flipping the drawer slide 180' to let me mitre at -45' and still get across the blade. Maybe the slide was installed backwards? I don't know. Works fine now. I definitely need a proper saw soon.


----------



## GMman

My next one is going to be a DeWalt. That is what I have now a Canadian tire base model it is good but not accurate. The only good thing is the three year warrantee and it is easy to carry around. It is more a job site saw.


----------



## coaltowner

I have to add to this, I own this saw and it came with a plastic side plate for the saw that just about killed me one day trying to cut a small piece the new ones come with a metal one and the new one cost 34$ plus shipping so i made one from alumuim


----------

