# Dave's Wide Drum Sander Build.



## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Working on the design, getting the parts.*

After seeing the many well thought out, and expertly crafted wide drum sander builds here, and on the other forums, I am sufficiently inspired and motivated to build my own.

I have been working out the design, and have come to the conclusions that while the design isn't finalized, I AM confident enough to start gathering the "Stuff" to start building it… This "Stuff" so far is…

#1. Pair of 5/8" center hole cast iron ball bearing pillow block bearings. (Order being processed as I type this.) $20.00 after S&H.
#2. 5/8" diameter x 48" steel rod to be length reduced during the build process. $7.55 after tax, purchased locally.
#3. 4" Schedule 40 PVC. Presently 4" piece. $0.00. It was given to me by a friend that had a cutoff.
#4. 4' of Harbor Freight Link Belt. Effectively $0.00. I had the HF link belt that I used on my band saw, this is just surplus.
#5. 1.5HP Compressor Duty Motor. $112.00 after tax. I am completely open to donated motors. If anyone has a suggestion as to where I can get a motor for free I am all for it! FWIW, I had initially wanted to rebuild a Dayton 1.5HP 3600 rpm motor for this application, but the inner bearing seized up on it and it appears to have welded itself to the shaft… Bye bye birdie!
#6. 3/4 Aracuo Ply. Leftover / cutoffs being used, so $0.00
#7. 20 stud grade SYP 2×4s. Again, $0.00 as these were cast off from a construction project as surplus. 
#8. Box of 2.5" coated deck screws. $10.00 (If I recall right) Yeah I am planning on screws and glue for this thing… I want strong, not pretty… 
#9. Tempered Hardboard. $0.00. Literally, I have 2 sheets that were given to me… 
#10. Hammer on Single Gang electrical box. $0.00 (pulled out of my attic. It was literally just sitting there loose when I bought the house…)
#11. "Safetly" power tool switch. $21.95
#12. 12 ga cable and plug. $0.00 (chunk of an extension cord the neighbor ran over with a mower and threw out. I was able to get a 20" section with a molded plug out of the deal free!
#13. Casters. $0.00. I reclaimed them when I tore apart the old / original rolling router table cabinet in favor of the table saw wing… 
#14. Piano hinges for motor mount plate and main table to pivot on. $0.00. Leftover cutoffs from the clamshell cabinet projects. 
#15. Misc 1/2" plywood for the drum cover. $0.00 from the scrap bins.
#16. 4" S&D PVC for the dust port. $0.00. I have tons of cutoffs from my dust collection setup..

I have some stormfall Oak I plan on using for the end plugs / center support(s), and yes, I plan on turning the V groove in the motor side end plug in order to provide the upper pulley.

My intention is to build this for the least amount of money possible. Partially for me, but partially to give inspiration to others that a project of this magnitude doesn't have to be expensive.

So bear along with me as I muddle through this project, and hopefully my blogging about it will give you enough information for your own build.

I want to thank all the Lumberjocks ahead of me that already built one of these. There are far too many out there to list, but your work has given me inspiration to move ahead on my build. Thank you! However out of all of these builds, and they are all fantastic mind you, I do intend on borrowing HEAVILY ideas from Lew's build. He has a great blog series that has provided me ample inspiration… http://lumberjocks.com/lew/blog/series/4738


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## SASmith (Mar 22, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Working on the design, getting the parts.*
> 
> After seeing the many well thought out, and expertly crafted wide drum sander builds here, and on the other forums, I am sufficiently inspired and motivated to build my own.
> 
> ...


A well thought out list.
Where did you end up getting the blocks/bearings?


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *Working on the design, getting the parts.*
> 
> After seeing the many well thought out, and expertly crafted wide drum sander builds here, and on the other forums, I am sufficiently inspired and motivated to build my own.
> 
> ...


What is your plan for the width of your sander?
Are you going to go "Hook & Loop"? (or just Loopy? Lol.)
Will you incorporate a power feeder?
Can you come over and build me one?

Good luck with your build.

Remember to always look over your shoulder…....Many inquiring minds will be following you!!!


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Working on the design, getting the parts.*
> 
> After seeing the many well thought out, and expertly crafted wide drum sander builds here, and on the other forums, I am sufficiently inspired and motivated to build my own.
> 
> ...


SASmith: Amazon is the source for the pillow blocks. Them, the motor, and the gumption to get it all done are what have been taking me so long…

DIYaholic: 
*What is your plan for the width of your sander? *I haven't settled on that yet. 24" minimum. I like working on BIG cutting boards, which is the driving force behind this whole project… I am leaning toward 30 or 32", but I don't have that set in stone yet. I am planning on a couple of prototyping runs to iron bugs out as I build…
*Are you going to go "Hook & Loop"? (or just Loopy? Lol.).* Hook and loop. I've seen plenty of these things that have a "Tab Lock" kind of arrangement, if need be I will lock down the leading tab as well, but I'd rather not… As every Lumberjock knows, going loopy is always an option though…
*Will you incorporate a power feeder?* That isn't in my plans at this point. However, I am planning on building it so that I can easily replace a tilting feed table with a raise / lower platen rig… I just don't feel my fabrication skills mechanically are up to snuff yet. So a simpler build is in order for me! My first inspiration for this project really was Darren over at Woodworkingtalk, I think he's here too… That got me thinking, and the onslaught of builds from other members got me thinking I could actually pull something like this off, and although nearly everyone says a power feeder would be nice, almost nobody says they are neccessary… 
*Can you come over and build me one?* That's not in my plan either… But I am planning on blogging this to death, with photos as I can get them done, so at least you can learn from my mess ups…


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## Sarit (Oct 21, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Working on the design, getting the parts.*
> 
> After seeing the many well thought out, and expertly crafted wide drum sander builds here, and on the other forums, I am sufficiently inspired and motivated to build my own.
> 
> ...


IMHO the solid wood drum is a better option compared to the PVC/Wood combination. The reason being that you can true the drum to the table by just putting some sandpaper on the table and raising the table until it sands the drum true. Its more important for the drum to be parallel to the table than it is for it to be perfectly cylindrical. You'll also be able to re-true it if any wood movement occurs.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Working on the design, getting the parts.*
> 
> After seeing the many well thought out, and expertly crafted wide drum sander builds here, and on the other forums, I am sufficiently inspired and motivated to build my own.
> 
> ...


Possibly a completely valid point, However I have had nothing but trouble trying to build a solid wood drum. Admittedly I have been using MDF which is most likely my issue…

Thus far I have seen 3 sanders built with the wood / PVC drum method, and I have seen no reports of any problems with that method YET… Mind you, I am not allergic as it were to that idea, but if I were to use solid wood, I would end up having to do a painfully large glue up of segments done in sections so that I can get the center hole through a section at a time, then glue the sections. The process seemed problematic, and a potential source for failure… A slight out of true can be corrected with the mentioned method as well, it just can't be very much is all… But then again, if your drum is that far out of true, and you are sanding lots of material off, you are reducing your sanding surface area more than I'd like anyway…

Anyway, that's my thoughts on why I am steering this way with the sander… Not that I hadn't considered, or even started down the all wood path, it just seemed like more of a hassle than it was worth…


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## JL7 (Apr 13, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Working on the design, getting the parts.*
> 
> After seeing the many well thought out, and expertly crafted wide drum sander builds here, and on the other forums, I am sufficiently inspired and motivated to build my own.
> 
> ...


Hey Dave - good for you - best of luck on the build. I have the 22" Performax bolted to the RAS and a couple things I learned pretty quick. It can be really tricky (and dangerous) to hang onto a larger board, especially on those final passes when everything is getting flat and you have maximum contact.

I built a sliding table on mine and I run it completely from the outfeed side - no chance of getting in the way of a wooden projectile! Something to think about. You can also get snipe if you don't have a constant feed rate. I have a few different posts on this in my "basement" blog. Downside - it takes some floor space - Upside, it is really efficient - you can feed stock back and forth without ever removing the stock from the table and you can flatten warped boards using shims. This is tough to do with a belt feed….

Lastly - I wouldn't build any bigger than absolutely necessary, reason being if you do trash the paper, the longer the drum, the greater the pain…..and good paper ain't cheap!

But whatever you decide - go for it - it's a great addition to the shop!

Jeff


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Working on the design, getting the parts.*
> 
> After seeing the many well thought out, and expertly crafted wide drum sander builds here, and on the other forums, I am sufficiently inspired and motivated to build my own.
> 
> ...


Just watching from the sidelines. Like I told Lew, I have enough trouble just getting down to the store to buy a tool, let alone build it. Mostly, I don't have the time or energy. No experience, so don't have much to say. I think the only real tool I built was my tablesaw switch, which incidentally, works flawlessly and I totally forget about it, which is the way it should be.

Good luck on the build, hope it works well.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Working on the design, getting the parts.*
> 
> After seeing the many well thought out, and expertly crafted wide drum sander builds here, and on the other forums, I am sufficiently inspired and motivated to build my own.
> 
> ...


Jim,

For me, I view shop projects / machine building as skill builders. Look at it this way…

To build the drum, I get more time on the lathe practicing making accurate cuts.
To build the elevation mechanism, I get practice on mitered half laps (sort of).
To build the table I get practice on lamination (Tempered hardboard over plywood).
To build the frame, I get practice on half laps, as well as Mortise and Tenon.
To mount the pillow blocks, I get practice on drilling DEEP, accurate holes with deep counterbores ALA Lew's setup.
To build the dust hood / drum hood I get to practice bending plywood., and drilling accurate, LARGE holes in uneven surfaces… 
To finish the thing, I will get more than a little practice spraying. I intend of painting mine for a couple of reasons, not the least of which is the humid environment where I live and work…

Most importantly, I am in no hurry to get this done, this project will most likely be a long term ongoing thing as I work other, smaller projects around it. For example, I have paint and drywall to get done inside the house SOON. I have Attic Foil that needs to finish getting installed, I have a few more rolls of R30 that need to go over the bedrooms etc… (I really need to hire some hands to finish this kind of junk up!)


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Working on the design, getting the parts.*
> 
> After seeing the many well thought out, and expertly crafted wide drum sander builds here, and on the other forums, I am sufficiently inspired and motivated to build my own.
> 
> ...


I think those are great reasons. I guess from my perspective, I do so much shop development, I really don't need anymore. I actually have two non-shop projects to post, just haven't got there. Might get to do it when I am on vacation if I get all the pictures taken.

Take your time, and have fun. I did a glue up on a major section of my cutoffs cart this morning before I went to work. It is coming along.


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## Sarit (Oct 21, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Working on the design, getting the parts.*
> 
> After seeing the many well thought out, and expertly crafted wide drum sander builds here, and on the other forums, I am sufficiently inspired and motivated to build my own.
> 
> ...


Regarding the construction of the solid wood drum, if you have a lathe, then there's another method that might be easier than making a bunch of little disks.
Take a 4"x4"x24" piece of hardwood, split it in half length wise and route a centered grove w/ a 5/8" cove bit in both halfs (also length wise). Sandwich the metal rod in the groove with epoxy and glue the hardwood halves back together.

Now the trick is how to mount this centered in the lathe. You can do this by making the same disks you were planning to make and using them as end caps for the lathe chuck and live center to grab on. On the chuck side, add a few screws through the end cap into the hardwood blank. The chuck jaws can then grab onto the circular end cap. On the live center side, you merely need a block with a stopped hole that fits over the metal rod. There is a through pilot hole at the bottom of the stopped hole for the live center to be located. (you can also just make a divot in the center of the metal rod if you are confident in your machining skills). Then its just a matter of turning it so its like 1/16" over sized (or whatever you feel comfortable with) and using the sanding technique to remove the rest.

An even easier (but much more dangerous) approach is to take the glued up blank and rod go ahead and install it into the sander as if it were done. Then when you turn on your sander, you'll notice that you essentially have a lathe. You'll have to improvise a tool rest and be sure you have the right rpms.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Working on the design, getting the parts.*
> 
> After seeing the many well thought out, and expertly crafted wide drum sander builds here, and on the other forums, I am sufficiently inspired and motivated to build my own.
> 
> ...


Sarit, an interesting thought, however, doing it in one piece on my lathe would be, well a challenge at best. I would simply run out of lathe bed for a wide enough drum… I did have the thought to do the drum in smaller chunks, say 5" chunks, to just over 4" diameter on the lathe, and gluing them up while keeping them centered on the shaft, gluing it up, and then sanding it down to final dimension with abrasive mounted on a sufficiently wide scrap of granite (shockingly easy to come by here…) Sort of turn it while sanding it smooth and to final dimension…

It appears that others are far more concerned than I about using the PVC… When Darren first did his I was skeptical, but after seeing a few in use for a couple of years, I am willing to give it a shot… If it fails, no biggie, I can go with a solid wood drum later. I just seriously doubt it will be a problem…


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *Working on the design, getting the parts.*
> 
> After seeing the many well thought out, and expertly crafted wide drum sander builds here, and on the other forums, I am sufficiently inspired and motivated to build my own.
> 
> ...


First, thanks for the kind words about the blog! You are too kind!

So far, the PVC drum has been working great. I did find, as Jeff mentioned, you must move the material continuously to prevent "divots".

Something I read and I think it might relate to the "roundness" tolerance requirement of the drum. Supposedly, hook and loop systems allow the sandpaper to actually lift off of the drum, when it spins. This is said to allow the paper to run cooler and clog less. Also, this system provides a cushion between the grit and the solid drum (the hook and loop material). Considering both of these factor, it makes sense to me at least, that some very minor variations in the drum "roundness" would not be a problem.

Just my 2¢

Lew


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*The bearings are in, off to the machine shop...*










The VXB 5/8" shaft pillow block bearings are in, and upon unpacking them, I made a bad discovery, the bearings are in the pillow blocks, but they are very poorly pressed in, meaning they are pressed in at a funny angle, not square to the faces.

Since the safety / emissions inspection on my Saturn is expired, and I need to go to the shop for that anyway, I figure I could possibly impose upon the mechanic to use his shop press to drive these things home properly while I am there, we'll see…

Overall the castings seem to be first rate, much better than I had anticipated. The grease zerks are cleanly fitted, and everything other than the press angle of the bearings seems ready to go…

The storm fall limbs I was expecting to use have too many fractures. Tonight I clean up a piece of old waterbed side rail (Red Oak) slice it up, and glue it up to make my blanks.

Now this is feeling like good progress…


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## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *The bearings are in, off to the machine shop...*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I hope the castings don't fracture when you press them up.I guess this is a friday night job but I bought one of these type of bearings when I took my new saw apart to get it into my woodshop the old one broke my young sons fault.I replaced it easily enough have fun Alistair


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *The bearings are in, off to the machine shop...*
> 
> 
> 
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I hope that you can get your *Bearings Straight*, both literally & figuratively. Sounds like you are ready to *Beat the Drum* on this build!
I know, I'm a punny guy! It's not a character flaw….it's a LACK of character flaw.

Do you get the feeling that you are being followed? You should, I've put this on my watch list.

Good luck with the build.


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## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *The bearings are in, off to the machine shop...*
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> 
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You likely have pillow blocks that allow the bearing to swivel to align them self in case the blocks are not installed in line.

Kiefer


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## anny (Oct 3, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *The bearings are in, off to the machine shop...*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm watching you. We, my son and I, have just started to build a drum sander. The drum is ready: 32" metal drum. Soon as I work out how, I'll post some pictures.


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *The bearings are in, off to the machine shop...*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I noticed the same thing with mind, at first glance! But then I realized, on mine, it was an optical illusion. The housing was more narrow at the top than near the bolt mounting portion. This made it look "off". Hopefully that's all you are experiencing.

Lew


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## bjmh46 (May 12, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *The bearings are in, off to the machine shop...*
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> 
> 
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Dave,

Don't go pressing on those bearings! They are likely spherical outer race, self aligning pillow blocks. The housing bores will have two interruptions 180 degrees apart for insertion and removal of the bearings. They will self-align when installed in the machine.

Now that I look closer at the photo, there is no likely about it! Those are self aligning. 
the spherical housing interruptions are clearly visible.

Regards
Bob


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *The bearings are in, off to the machine shop...*
> 
> 
> 
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Made the discovery… Thanks for the heads up…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Sources for the parts.*

I have been drilled as it were for the sources on the parts I am using for my drum sander. So here goes…

The pillow block bearings were chosen partially due to the available axle. More on that later. I selected 5/8" pillow blocks from Amazon. Price was good, but after shipping came out to $22.45 delivered.

The steel rod I have is something I have had for a VERY long time. When I was in college, I worked in a hardware store that closed down. The owner tossed a bunch of junk that was in the workroom my way after we cleaned up, among that was some 5/8" smooth rod, and 3/8-16 all thread which will be used in this project… You SHOULD be able to find 5/8 smooth rod available for around $10.00 or so at Home Depot or Ace Hardware etc…

Lower / motor end pulley, well I am honestly not certain, but I figure it had to be from those boxes of junk that was at the hardware store… It's a 5/8" bore 1.75" pulley that will accept a set screw, or a key. Depending on the motor I end up with, I might take advantage of both and utilize the keyway.

Drum end pulley. I am planning on utilizing Lew's method for turning a pulley groove into the drum end itself. Keeps the cost down, and honestly, one less point for potential failure of the assembly.

Drum materials themselves. I have a few options. Red Oak and 4" PVC. Will take some glue to fashion a blank big enough for the 4" end plugs, but I have it sitting around. May have some storm fall limb sections that are nice and dry that could possibly work… IF NOT, I could always go with one of those laminated drums, to keep cost down I would have to end up using face jointed, and planed 2×6 stock to cut the disks out of. I am NOT using MDF!

Switch. I originally bought the "Safety" motor switch from MLCS a couple of years ago on sale for $19.99. I was going to wire it to my band saw, but the OEM switch on the saw works fine… The switch has a box and proper grommets for the cables to the power and out to the motor.

Power cable. A neighbor ran over their heavy gauge extension cord, 12ga stuff with an electric edger. I salvaged it from the trash. They cut it within a few feet of the female end, so I essentially have a 20' power cable. I figure I will chop 5' out of it, have a 15 foot power cord, and 5' to connect switch to motor.

Casters. I have had these for better part of 25 years. I build a wooden tool chest in wood shop in school. These casters came from that project after a few too many moves destroyed it.

Thread inserts. I am planning on buying 3/8 -16 thread inserts from Amazon for this project. I guess that would be about $15.00 of hardware there…

Dust hood / port. I have TONS of 4" S&D PVC cutoffs, and plywood to build dust hoods with. Not a problem there…

Framing. acclimated , as straight as possible 2×4s, and yes, they were FREE!

Table. More of that plywood, and of course tempered hardboard topped…

The simplest and fastest way to build would be a tilt table with a screw advance to raise and lower the table. But the challenge loving part of me is trying to draw up plans for a chain driven synchronized 4 post raise / lower mechanism based off of that 3/8" all thread…

We'll see if I can figure it out…


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## lewis62 (Mar 6, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *Sources for the parts.*
> 
> I have been drilled as it were for the sources on the parts I am using for my drum sander. So here goes…
> 
> ...












Not to put a dampner on your build,but.
Rod is not shaft, not, true round, harddened, sized, straight.
The pillow block bearings , I got, should be self aligning, once installed with shaft they line up to run with it, do they have a locking collar or set screw to lock shaft in place to keep from moving side to side.
wood for drum, will move , no matter how dry, mdf or PB is better choice, drum will go out of round with humidity in air changes.
Check ,surplus center , for, bearings ,keyed shaft, chain, sprockets, pulleys belts, and whole lot more at good prices.
Look at mcmaster carr, for any thing and every thing.
My drum is 25 long by 6 dia. P B epoxied to 7/8 shaft, has moved once in two years sealed it with kilz original from spray can.
Used 1/2 by 20 all tread for 4 post height mech. linked by # 25 chain and gears, fine tread for greater control of height, 20 turns to raise 1 inch instead of 13. Your 3/8 will work.
In process of making motorized feed belt conveyor, problems, will post when done hoping few weeks.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Sources for the parts.*
> 
> I have been drilled as it were for the sources on the parts I am using for my drum sander. So here goes…
> 
> ...


I'd love some conceptual details about the lift / lowering mechanism if you'd care to share… My thought is to have some sort of way to keep the threaded rod in at the top, and bottom , while allowing it to spin, while the threads actually engage the table, or frame of the table. Not sure I am describing that right…

I have seen a few conveyors, Shop Notes had a belt sander design not too long ago that might work converted sideways as a conveyor… Will dig to see if I can find the article…

As far as MDF goes, forget it. I haven't figured out how to keep it from ballooning up like a wet diaper with our humidity…


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *Sources for the parts.*
> 
> I have been drilled as it were for the sources on the parts I am using for my drum sander. So here goes…
> 
> ...


Dave,
Thanks for the kind mention about the pulley but I must say the idea came from http://lumberjocks.com/projects/41979

Lots of good info from "Lewis62". I thought about making the drum from solid material, too. My motor was only 1/3hp. Wrestled with two trains of thought- weight vs. inertia The heavier drum would build up more inertia but would it also be more of a load on the motor. After reading Charles's blog (link above). I decided the lighter would work better- *for my needs*. Lewis62 reminded me that I forgot to install the setscrews in my bearings! Would have really liked to make Lewis's lift system and a power feed mechanism, but for what I do it would have been overkill.

So far, my drum is working good. I have sanded several hundred feet of maple and walnut 2" wide rolling pin strips. Taking off a little over 1/8" thickness all together (these were originally intended to be thicknessed on the planer). I did have a paper tear but that was my fault- jammed the piece in too fast.

Lew


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Sources for the parts.*
> 
> I have been drilled as it were for the sources on the parts I am using for my drum sander. So here goes…
> 
> ...


Yeah, I am planning on using the setscrews on the pillow blocks. I figure they should keep the shaft, and in turn the drum from walking right / left as it rotates…

The lift system is something I am FAR more interested in than the power feed, not to say the Power Feed isn't a matter of interest…


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## lewis62 (Mar 6, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *Sources for the parts.*
> 
> I have been drilled as it were for the sources on the parts I am using for my drum sander. So here goes…
> 
> ...


zWhat i did for lift , 
bottom is a hole boared in plywood base to fit ball bearing that fit all tread, also 2nd bore in hole so there is clearance on center of bearing and rests only on outside race.
all tread has nut than geared sprocket also sized to fit, and another nut on top . nuts are tightened to help hold gear which also has set screws.
middle. is a square steel tube . the ends are drilled oversized of the all tread too allow for movement left to right.
Inside the tube is a home made nut from a steel bar stock 1/2 inch thick that fits snuggly side to side,allowing that movement . and a second piece of bar stock over drilled for all tread being used as a spacer to keep movement up and down to min. So as rods turn nuts travel up or down bar moves table rests on two bars front and back.
Top. I used 2 inch alum, angle we had laying around, holes in angle were lined up for center marks of bottom holes.A bronze flanged bushing goes up there,sized for alltread inside, out side of bushing is what ever.The hole that holds the bushing is just oversized so there is movement latterlly 360 degrees, but small enough so flange holds bushing from top not falling through and allowing it to turn.
My first attempt to put all that together by measuring and lineing it up exactly FAILED. The all tread locked up and started stripping, no way I know how to get that exact. So the freedom of movement is a must or lift fails.Used it like that and works great. But have bigger projects in mind so am doing power feed belt. Once table is on two bars drilled holes and held in place with 3 screws up from bottom of bar.Raised table up lined up , timed gears and chain with spacer from shaft , then trued drum with coarse sand paper contact glued to board running it under drum untill sounded ,no thumps than shut off checked sanded surface was even. last tim I checked it was only about .008 out one end of drum to other on a 18 inch wide butcher block, end grain, that was run .
Hope this helps
I hate typing
will try to take a few better pic if you want.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*The drum build. Closing in on decision time!*

As you know from my earlier posts, I have been teetering between using a wood plugged / PVC pipe based drum, or an all wood, laminated drum… The 2 options have pros and cons to consider.

PVC based drum would have the potential of suffering distortion damage due to sanding heat. However those that have done this already haven't seen such a problem. Likewise PVC due to the lower weight would have less inertia to help with actually doing the work. Again I don't think that's a problem. And lastly, PVC comes in a very limited range of sizes, now we run into a problem…

The wood laminated drum poses its own set of problems, not the least of which is complexity of build. Simply put, I would have to prep the stock to cut the disks, glue them, perfectly center bore them, and attach to the shaft. While not impossible, I see an abundance of opportunity for failure with this approach…

I think that once the cons and weighed against the pros, for me anyway, the PVC based drum just makes the most sense to me. Easy to build, easier on the motor to get it spinning, comes in the diameter I am looking to work with etc…

One of the reasons I am babbling out loud so much about this process is that hopefully those interested later on can learn from my successes, and mistakes. And I am trying to keep an eye open for budget issues as I know that if it weren't for budget, most of us would just buy the machine anyway…

So the old brain has been considering using like I had mentioned previously, 2x stock. Specifically face jointed and then thickness planed 2×6. Why? Because it's dirt cheap to free depending on your situation, almost anyone should have access to it. Just slice it to length, glue it up to make your basic blank, lop the corners off so you son't have so many lobes to turn off, and get busy on the lathe!

Now why not just do the laminated drum again? My biggest concern is being able to get that center bore, well… centered through the long run of a drum. With the plugs, I can turn a tenon, and chuck it up in my lathe, I would have no clue how to keep that hole perfectly centered along a complete drum assembly. I could do it in chunks, but then what to do with the tenons? I guess I could slice them off, just seems like more work than I want to do…

So the tasks to tackle for this when I can weasel some shop time? Face joint and plane some 2×6. I have plenty in the shop, just need to clean it up and get it ready to go on the lathe!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *The drum build. Closing in on decision time!*
> 
> As you know from my earlier posts, I have been teetering between using a wood plugged / PVC pipe based drum, or an all wood, laminated drum… The 2 options have pros and cons to consider.
> 
> ...


Thanks for taking the time to document your thought process! Your right, it will help those that follow in your footsteps.

I know that I WILL build a drum sander, once more pressing shop projects are completed. I am following your progress with great interest. Please, feel free to continue "babbling out loud"! The Pros & Cons of each descision IS extremely helpful. I'm sure you already know, "A picture says a thousand words" & Video speaks volumes!

Eagerly awaiting "The Build"!


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## lew (Feb 13, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *The drum build. Closing in on decision time!*
> 
> As you know from my earlier posts, I have been teetering between using a wood plugged / PVC pipe based drum, or an all wood, laminated drum… The 2 options have pros and cons to consider.
> 
> ...


Dave,
I, too, was concerned about the heat build up from sanding. Seems like this can be reduced by using the hook and loop system. Now I haven't sanded above 120 grit but so far no burning and no clogging. Also, I think the mostly hollow drum has the ability to dissipate heat more readily than an all solid drum.
For what it's worth…..

Lew


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## bluekingfisher (Mar 30, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *The drum build. Closing in on decision time!*
> 
> As you know from my earlier posts, I have been teetering between using a wood plugged / PVC pipe based drum, or an all wood, laminated drum… The 2 options have pros and cons to consider.
> 
> ...


I have been keeping half an eye on your thread on the drum sander. I saw a plan in ShopNotes mag a few years back and was thinking of building one muyself as I appeared to have most of the parts lying about the shop.

Time being my enemy I eventually bought one second hand a year ago (Jet 16-32) It was like new came with all the accessories and two boxes of unused belts. I bought it for a song. I tried it out the first time on Saturday to sand some wide boards. What a machine it is, a joy to use although I did stall it a couple of times trying to take too muck off at once.

I'll post a thread on it to explain my own findings with this machine.

In the meantime good luck and have fun building yours


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *The drum build. Closing in on decision time!*
> 
> As you know from my earlier posts, I have been teetering between using a wood plugged / PVC pipe based drum, or an all wood, laminated drum… The 2 options have pros and cons to consider.
> 
> ...


No problem. I actually spent some shop time last night doing some cleanup out there so I can get the camcorder to the shop and maybe do some short videos of the build… I am literally working on no less than 5 projects right now, and the mess is building up. 3 of those projects are waiting on materials I don't have the funds for yet, so they need to get shelved for a while. The remaining, a plywood lawn ornament scroll saw project, and of course the drum sander build, I can make progress on…


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## Sarit (Oct 21, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *The drum build. Closing in on decision time!*
> 
> As you know from my earlier posts, I have been teetering between using a wood plugged / PVC pipe based drum, or an all wood, laminated drum… The 2 options have pros and cons to consider.
> 
> ...


to make a centered hole in a plug, can you can chuck the plug in a 4 jaw chuck and use a drill chuck in the tail stock of your lathe?


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *The drum build. Closing in on decision time!*
> 
> As you know from my earlier posts, I have been teetering between using a wood plugged / PVC pipe based drum, or an all wood, laminated drum… The 2 options have pros and cons to consider.
> 
> ...


That's my plan…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Digging through the lumber racks to fish out the 2x6 stock... *

I had previously mentioned that I was planning on using 2×6 stock, that I will S4S, cut to length matching the width left after jointing and ripping (I expect 5.25", gluing it all up, finding center, drawing my rough circle on with a compass, and cutting to ROUGH round dimension on the band saw.

With all of the issues at hand and known as discussed in my prior blog entry, I have opted to go with the wood plugged PVC drum out of a need to make the build simpler based on the tools I have on hand.

If you are doing a build and feel that a all wood laminated drum would be a better solution for you, go for it. My prior attempts were less than fruitful. I am not trying to talk anyone into, or out of a specific drum design, just stating what I decided to go with, and why…

In order to do all of that, I need to get the stock off the rack…

It's apparently been a while since I have even looked at my 2×6 stock…

Specifically since last years BT3Central 2×6 Challenge…

Needless to say, it was stowed, well out of the way. Out came the ladder. and dig, dig, dig through all the smaller pine pieces. Note to self. Find projects for all this pine!

Literally an hour after I started, I finally got the 2×6 out, and all the mess from getting to it put back up… Ick…

So now it's down, and the bench tops are an absolute mess… IF I can talk LOML into coming out to the shop with me tonight, I will get it cleaned up so that I can shoot some video this weekend. I am tempted to pass on the shooting of me milling the lumber. But then again… I might just shoot that…

Anyway, I am still in the middle of other home improvement projects, so depending on how my weekend is prioritized for me, I may end up slowed down even further as it were… We'll see…


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *Digging through the lumber racks to fish out the 2x6 stock... *
> 
> I had previously mentioned that I was planning on using 2×6 stock, that I will S4S, cut to length matching the width left after jointing and ripping (I expect 5.25", gluing it all up, finding center, drawing my rough circle on with a compass, and cutting to ROUGH round dimension on the band saw.
> 
> ...


So, we know who wears the pants…. Lol.

Isn't it a shame how real life gets in the way of our pursuit of hobbies.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Digging through the lumber racks to fish out the 2x6 stock... *
> 
> I had previously mentioned that I was planning on using 2×6 stock, that I will S4S, cut to length matching the width left after jointing and ripping (I expect 5.25", gluing it all up, finding center, drawing my rough circle on with a compass, and cutting to ROUGH round dimension on the band saw.
> 
> ...


Sometimes her idea of schedule and mine don't jive… I am actually doing some RHCE study work (actually waiting on a progress bar right now…) tonight. have yet to make it out to the shop… I'll get there…!


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Lousy weekend, not much to update...*

Was sick all weekend. Stupid cold. I know some folks are following this blog series, so I just wanted to let y'all know I haven't forgotten to post, just no real progress to report…


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *Lousy weekend, not much to update...*
> 
> Was sick all weekend. Stupid cold. I know some folks are following this blog series, so I just wanted to let y'all know I haven't forgotten to post, just no real progress to report…


Well, and I hope you are, at least it gave you an excuse to; surf the net, watch the Superbowl, catch up on some reading, research/rethink/further confuse yourself regarding your build plan or whatever you chose to do!!!


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## willmego (Mar 27, 2008)

dbhost said:


> *Lousy weekend, not much to update...*
> 
> Was sick all weekend. Stupid cold. I know some folks are following this blog series, so I just wanted to let y'all know I haven't forgotten to post, just no real progress to report…


lot of that going around this month, take it easy, feel better.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Excuse to order a new tool...*

Since I am turning the caps for the new drum, I will need 5/8" holes centered in these caps so that the drum runs true. While it's possible to to center bore these on the drill press, I figure it would be a whole lot easier with a Jacobs type chuck. Only one little problem…

I don't own one, yet…

I've been eyeballing the simple "1/2 MT2 Mini-Lathe Drill Chuck from Harbor Freight Tools, item #42340.

Now mind you, I paid more than if I would have gotten it at my local Harbor Freight as the online coupon code was only 10% off, and I had to pay shipping, but the cost of driving to Pasadena and back to potentially come back empty handed was too great to just not order it online… So after the 10% discount, s&h and taxes I came in just over $22.00 to my door.

So now the 2×6 is down, cut down, face jointed and planed ready to be cut to length, I have time tomorrow, so the glue up will take place. Then clip the corners and get them ready as blanks to turn the drum plugs with…

Fun time begins once it hits the lathe!


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *Excuse to order a new tool...*
> 
> Since I am turning the caps for the new drum, I will need 5/8" holes centered in these caps so that the drum runs true. While it's possible to to center bore these on the drill press, I figure it would be a whole lot easier with a Jacobs type chuck. Only one little problem…
> 
> ...


Yeah, I'll check in when you have pictures! Lol.
I'm going to be building a thickness sander in the not to distant future. So, I'm watching this blog.

Looking forward to seeing more progress!


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Excuse to order a new tool...*
> 
> Since I am turning the caps for the new drum, I will need 5/8" holes centered in these caps so that the drum runs true. While it's possible to to center bore these on the drill press, I figure it would be a whole lot easier with a Jacobs type chuck. Only one little problem…
> 
> ...


Oh so you want photos huh?

Pic #1, the 2x stock cut to 30" length, and ready to start the milling process. I found out very quickly that this was 2×10 not 2×6 like I had thought was on the rack. Now the better question is, where'd this come from? I probably should have cut it a wee bit longer, but with the motor RPM still questionable, I am leaning toward a cast metal pulley instead of turning one. Just trying to simplify this… I may still add one more segment, who knows…









Pic #2. The stock S4S, and a stop block set up on the miter saw for the crosscut. I don't need super accurate, just ballpark. Remember this is going to end up spinning on the lathe, so a lot more shaping is in order! If you look closely you will notice I build a dust hood, but there are piles of dust there. Yeah I haven't run hose to it yet… I still need to do that.









Pic #3. In the clamps. For some reason it didn't seem like that much glue when I was spreading it! And yes, I alternated grain orientation. Not sure if my thinking is good here, but it seems like it would be stronger this way…


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *Excuse to order a new tool...*
> 
> Since I am turning the caps for the new drum, I will need 5/8" holes centered in these caps so that the drum runs true. While it's possible to to center bore these on the drill press, I figure it would be a whole lot easier with a Jacobs type chuck. Only one little problem…
> 
> ...


Thanks for the pic's!

Pic's help me live vicariously through others. It really saves my energy for important things like walkin' to the fridge for another beer!!

Saw dust in the shop makes it LOOK like you've been busy.

Alternating the grain makes sense to me. Then again, I wear a helmet & ride the small bus. Lol.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Excuse to order a new tool...*
> 
> Since I am turning the caps for the new drum, I will need 5/8" holes centered in these caps so that the drum runs true. While it's possible to to center bore these on the drill press, I figure it would be a whole lot easier with a Jacobs type chuck. Only one little problem…
> 
> ...


I know the feeling…

What I want to know is where th e*#$% the 2×6 I Pulled off my rack last week went and who swapped me for this 2×10! Oh well…Nothing a ripping blade won't fix…

You'll see more pics once this comes out of the clamps… I may have to spend a day or so cleaning shop though. I have parts for 5 projects strewn everywhere, and busted drywall on the floor… I need to get better about cleaning up…


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *Excuse to order a new tool...*
> 
> Since I am turning the caps for the new drum, I will need 5/8" holes centered in these caps so that the drum runs true. While it's possible to to center bore these on the drill press, I figure it would be a whole lot easier with a Jacobs type chuck. Only one little problem…
> 
> ...


I'll wait, with a beer or two or twelve while you clean up!!! I love work, I can watch it for hours!

Look forward to see progress on this.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Progress on the drum.*

Not pretty yet, and this certainly shows my extreme lack of turning skills. I have the larger of the two outer plugs round, and have it with the groove for the pulley cut in…

The pulley end large side is 5.25" dia, the inside diameter is 4.75". I am not sure I left enough thickness on the side to prevent a blowout, but I guess we will see…

The first pic is the blanks glued up and the corners clipped off to keep from beating too much with the rougher…










The second pic is the progress so far on the large end plug… I know, fugly, it'll get better, I hope…


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## Martyroc (Feb 1, 2012)

dbhost said:


> *Progress on the drum.*
> 
> Not pretty yet, and this certainly shows my extreme lack of turning skills. I have the larger of the two outer plugs round, and have it with the groove for the pulley cut in…
> 
> ...


Keep going, it's getting there, I cant wait to see the finished project.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *Progress on the drum.*
> 
> Not pretty yet, and this certainly shows my extreme lack of turning skills. I have the larger of the two outer plugs round, and have it with the groove for the pulley cut in…
> 
> ...


It's good to see progress being made.

You ain't just spinning your wheels on this project.
Now, be like the little Engine that could…...
I think I can, I think I can, I think I can…...


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Progress on the drum.*
> 
> Not pretty yet, and this certainly shows my extreme lack of turning skills. I have the larger of the two outer plugs round, and have it with the groove for the pulley cut in…
> 
> ...


BTW, if it's not painfully obvious, the Skew chisel and I aren't exactly friends yet… After those chunk outs, I set the skew down and tried to smooth it up with my Versa Chisels… I should have gone from the roughers to the Versa chisels right off the bat… It's not so bad with hardwoods, but boy pine gets nasty… I will be turning this down further. The narrow part right now is at a little over 4.6" OD. I will be turning it down to 4.5" to match the OD of the schedule 40, and of course the officially 3.998" or slightly smaller snug fit shoulder. Just didn't have time to finish that last night.

You will also notice, unlike many other of these builds, I made my pulley quite a bit larger than most. This may end up getting turned down as well. Again, I am unsure if I am taking the right approach, just going with what I think will work, and I want to keep my RPMs to between 1K and 1.2K, so I went for an approximately 5" OD pulley. We'll see how well this works!


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*I slowed myself down, the hard way...*

So I spent some quality time yesterday in the shop, turning the end caps. Specifically turning the first one to final size and then cutting the shoulder into it for a nice, snug fit on the Schedule 40, and then starting to rough in the second one…

I may have to redo the first as I did something stupid. I removed it from the chuck before the drill chuck came in, so I haven't center bored it yet… I will make certain it's good and round before I start punching that center bore!

Chances are, I won't have an opportunity to get to work on it again until at least the weekend. I have work keeping me late, and the some more work on the main bathroom, time to prime! I figure by the time I am done with all my projects, i will either have to start all over again, or I will be dead…


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## Martyroc (Feb 1, 2012)

dbhost said:


> *I slowed myself down, the hard way...*
> 
> So I spent some quality time yesterday in the shop, turning the end caps. Specifically turning the first one to final size and then cutting the shoulder into it for a nice, snug fit on the Schedule 40, and then starting to rough in the second one…
> 
> ...


I hear you, by the time I get all my projects finished, I would have been dead for 5 years already.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

dbhost said:


> *I slowed myself down, the hard way...*
> 
> So I spent some quality time yesterday in the shop, turning the end caps. Specifically turning the first one to final size and then cutting the shoulder into it for a nice, snug fit on the Schedule 40, and then starting to rough in the second one…
> 
> ...


If there really is a utopian heaven, then your shop & projects will be waiting for you. With ALL the macines & tools of your dreams, with LIFETIME WARRANTY!


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *I slowed myself down, the hard way...*
> 
> So I spent some quality time yesterday in the shop, turning the end caps. Specifically turning the first one to final size and then cutting the shoulder into it for a nice, snug fit on the Schedule 40, and then starting to rough in the second one…
> 
> ...


And all the stock and materials I need…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Progress, and congress...*

If con is the opposite of pro, congress MUST be the opposite of progress right?

The cap ends are done, which is the progress. The pulley side is actually looking really good, with a nice snug bore hole straight through the middle courtesy of the new to me drill chuck from Harbor Freight…

The non pulley end I can't seem to get rechucked so that it turns true in order to put a true straight hole through the middle, so it's back to the lumber pile, and I just am not feeling it today…

so next step is to prep another blank, and start over with that one. I should probably prep the disks for the center as well…

I must admit I am far more pleased with the HF drill chuck than I expected I would be, and far less pleased with me today than I figured I would be…


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Off to the machine shop... And the scrap bin.*

So my pulleys came in last night, and they both are keyed. I installed the pulley onto the shaft for the motor, no biggie. Just had to tap it into place with the rubber mallet. The drum end pulley also has a keyway, but the smooth rod doesn't. That bothers me, a LOT… I know it shouldn't, but I am going so painstakingly carefully through this build that even that small detail is REALLY getting on my nerves…

So a few calls made in my area to machine shops. I was actually stunned. Went through the Yellow Pages app to find one and called 4 different shops. Nobody is answering. Called a fifth, and was able to get a quote for such a small job as to cut a keyway into the rod, and smooth up the ends.

The SYP plug ends I am not happy with, mostly due to the fact that I went with a metal pulley. I did try working with making a combined plug end / pulley but the first time I applied power when testing it, the side of the pulley blew out. No joy…

So the next step was to grab some S4S scraps out of the scrap bin… I sourced up enough to make 3 internal brace plugs, which are sitting in the clamps right now, which are going to be pine, I wouldn't think the internals would take that much stress. The outers will have to be red oak. That's what I have…

While I am at the machine shop, I am going to talk to the guy about some sort of collar / through boring of the shaft so that I can install the drum, and lock it to the shaft without epoxy. I am thinking just something that I can screw to the end plug, and then lock down with a set screw. We'll see…

Lots of fits and starts, and the design has changed a couple of times during the build of just the drum / rotating assembly… It will be interesting to see how this whole project turns out! So far I am enthusiastic about the prospects. And somewhat fearful… This would make quick work of smoothing up end grain cutting boards, and I do love to make those!


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

*Missed out on the machine shop, so far...*

Okay, I should have gone to the machine shop on Friday, but I got more than a little busy, and they were busy on Monday, so….

What little bit of shop, or shop related time I could come up with, I glued up the blanks for the end blocks, okay actually this one will likely be a center block. I've got more digging to do in the scrap pile…

I was able to locate the link belt, and get everything connected / test fitted over the weekend. Once the drive pulley was installed, along with the pillow blocks, I determined the max width of my sanding drum to be 30" while still allowing for some side to side slop on the drum assembly.

I have been reviewing other shop built drum sander designs, and the most common seems to be lap jointed. Which would be easy enough, but as I may have mentioned previously, my shop builds serve two purposes.

Purpose #1. And while this one is important, it is just here because it is the obvious, but the first purpose is to improve my shop.

Purpose #2, and FAR more important, is to improve my woodworking skills. I already have lap joinery, even pinned lap joinery down pat. I need work with M&T, so, well you guessed it…

I am planning on a M&T base. / frame.

The design is alarmingly simple,

I have LOTS of existing examples, but I am planning on something similar to THIS 16 incher, but with obviously a wider PVC based drum, eased edges, and M&T joinery…

Off the bat I need a couple of things to happen before I dive into this though…

#1. 2x stock to fully acclimate in my shop.
#2. Get some free time that I can use on MY projects, instead of my wife's ideas of how I should spend my time… (I am REALLY hating all the paint and drywall I have been doing!)

So if you are following along, here's the score so far…

#1. I have the following materials prepped, and ready to install. 1.5HP 3450 RPM Compressor Duty motor. The reviews complain about start up torque. They are nuts. Mine is more than ample… 5/8" x 36" smooth steel rod. 5/8" bore pillow block bearings with grease fittings. 2" and 6" 5/8" bore V groove pulleys. Link belt. Safety motor power switch. 12 ga extension cord with bad female end (I don't need the female end anyway…). 1 sheet 3/4" Oak ply ripped to 2 pieces 48" square. 1 pair old door hinges. May not use these as I discovered when I went to clean them how loose they are. 4" S&D pipe cutoffs for dust port. 1/2" pine plywood cutoffs in various sizes for dust hood. 10 8' kiln dried select pine 2×4s. 1/2 a sheet of tempered hardboard (Want the sander bed to be slick to allow material to move through easily….

God have mercy on my project list, and my poor back!


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## SteveMI (May 19, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Missed out on the machine shop, so far...*
> 
> Okay, I should have gone to the machine shop on Friday, but I got more than a little busy, and they were busy on Monday, so….
> 
> ...


I may have missed it, but you will need to use the pulleys to get the 3.450 rpm cut in half. Mine is a 22" wide with the 5" MDF segments. I'm using mine without an overhead to flatten glue ups wider than my planer.




























Its first challenge was reclaiming a twisted and abused old table top. (Took about 10 passes with 180 grit)




























You will find that every piece of flat wood will now go through the machine.

Steve.


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Missed out on the machine shop, so far...*
> 
> Okay, I should have gone to the machine shop on Friday, but I got more than a little busy, and they were busy on Monday, so….
> 
> ...


Rpm wise I was aiming at around 1100 - 1200…


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## jbertelson (Sep 26, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Missed out on the machine shop, so far...*
> 
> Okay, I should have gone to the machine shop on Friday, but I got more than a little busy, and they were busy on Monday, so….
> 
> ...


Envy…...............

Expect short comments until I am through programming for EMR…...............(-:


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## helluvawreck (Jul 21, 2010)

dbhost said:


> *Missed out on the machine shop, so far...*
> 
> Okay, I should have gone to the machine shop on Friday, but I got more than a little busy, and they were busy on Monday, so….
> 
> ...


The fact of the matter is that I need one of these myself since I've started making boxes. I'm going to have to go back through this whole blog and some of the others too to see how everyone built theirs. Thanks for posting.

helluvawreck
https://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com


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## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

dbhost said:


> *Missed out on the machine shop, so far...*
> 
> Okay, I should have gone to the machine shop on Friday, but I got more than a little busy, and they were busy on Monday, so….
> 
> ...


Cutting boards and cabinet doors are what triggered this build for me….


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