# 19 foot Offshore Power Dory Build



## English (May 10, 2014)

*Getting Started*

I have started a new project for the winter. I am building a 19 foot Offshore Power Dory Boat. I am 65 years old and have spent my life building things for everyone else. I have always wanted to build a boat, so with my wife's blessing that is just what I am doing this winter.

I have spent hundreds of hours studying boat plans, reading about building boats on boat building forums and researching about every thing I would need to know to build a boat. I picked a plan. A 19ft Offshore Power Dory from Spira International Inc.

The design is simple, 2×4 lumber for the frame. Marine plywood for the skin, epoxy and fiberglass to keep it dry. Sounds simple right.

I chose to use Douglas Fir for the frames, and I plan to use Douglas Fir Marine Plywood for the hull and the cabin skin. I have got started and I will update the blog as I go. I have about 40 hours in the build so far.

Here is what I plan to build, This is the hull plan.










I hope this is the way it will look when I finish.










To build the boat you need something to build it on, something to keep everything straight. They call it a strong back, here is mine.










It is made from 2×8 lumber, I added the casters so I could move it back and forth in my shop to make room to work on it. It's awful big for my space.

Then you have to build the transom and the frames. To do this you use a piece of plywood, a full sheet, and layout the frame dimensions. on the plywood.










Then you lay the lumber onto the layout on the plywood, mark your cuts, then assemble the frames on the layout.




























You also need to layout and cut the opening for the "keelson" while the frame is on the layout.



















Then you need to drill out the corners, drilling reduces the chances of the lumber splitting as well has supplying Limber holes for the bilge water to pass from frame to frame.










Once the limber holes are cut you need to cut out the notch.



















Then as you build the frames you lay them out on the strong back.





































Until all of the frames are built and all of the joints are screwed with Stainless Steel #10×3 " deck screws and glued with epoxy glue.



















Next you need to install the keelson, this is the structural piece that holds all of the frames together.

Here is the slots that the keelson will be installed.










For the keelson I had to use a piece of southern yellow pine, I could not find any Douglas Fir that size, needed 2×8 x 20 ft.



















The keelson is now installed and glued with epoxy and screwed with Stainless Steel #10×3 " deck screws.

As I progress I will add new blog entries with lots of pictures. I have about 40 hours so far in the build. And I have enjoyed all of it.

Thanks for looking!!


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## FatherHooligan (Mar 27, 2008)

English said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I have started a new project for the winter. I am building a 19 foot Offshore Power Dory Boat. I am 65 years old and have spent my life building things for everyone else. I have always wanted to build a boat, so with my wife's blessing that is just what I am doing this winter.
> 
> ...


You are making great progress in 40 hours!

When you epoxied the joints did you use fibre cloth to re-enforce the joints, or are you just relying on the epoxy alone? I am not sure how familiar you are working with epoxy but fellow LJ shipwright has a pretty good explanation of using epoxy in boat building.

Thank you for posting this I will be eagerly watching your progress!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I have started a new project for the winter. I am building a 19 foot Offshore Power Dory Boat. I am 65 years old and have spent my life building things for everyone else. I have always wanted to build a boat, so with my wife's blessing that is just what I am doing this winter.
> 
> ...


It's always fun to watch a new boat come to life . I'll be watching and although I'm sure you've get everything covered, I'll be available if you run into a glitch. I've built a few boats.

Have a ball with this.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I have started a new project for the winter. I am building a 19 foot Offshore Power Dory Boat. I am 65 years old and have spent my life building things for everyone else. I have always wanted to build a boat, so with my wife's blessing that is just what I am doing this winter.
> 
> ...


Mark, My plans just called for using epoxy or it said I could use a polyurethane glue like Loctite PL Premium. I researched and suffered with the decision and decided on the epoxy. In my research I didn't see any mention of adding fiber to the joints. I do plan to put 6" fiber on all my plywood joints and 2 layers of 6oz cloth on the entire out side of the hull.


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## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I have started a new project for the winter. I am building a 19 foot Offshore Power Dory Boat. I am 65 years old and have spent my life building things for everyone else. I have always wanted to build a boat, so with my wife's blessing that is just what I am doing this winter.
> 
> ...


John,
Now I'm caught up, nice to see Paul is watching. This will be a project you will never forget. 
After looking at all three posts, I'd be happy with the progress you've made. 
When do we get to the point when we quit checking our hours, it's a hard habit to break.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

English said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I have started a new project for the winter. I am building a 19 foot Offshore Power Dory Boat. I am 65 years old and have spent my life building things for everyone else. I have always wanted to build a boat, so with my wife's blessing that is just what I am doing this winter.
> 
> ...


I haven't been following with on this build John, but I just read the latest installment where you are just around the corner from launching. I'll be catching up on all the installments now as I find boatbuilding to be very interesting and since I have never built a boat all the more so. Thanks for doing such a thorough and well written blog on this so we can enjoy the build too.


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## DanielM (10 mo ago)

English said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I have started a new project for the winter. I am building a 19 foot Offshore Power Dory Boat. I am 65 years old and have spent my life building things for everyone else. I have always wanted to build a boat, so with my wife's blessing that is just what I am doing this winter.
> 
> ...


I don't count the hours. I just enjoy the process. If I thought my Courtenay will take 800 hours I don't think I would even start. I give myself a year but I am hoping to do it faster.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Getting Started*
> 
> I have started a new project for the winter. I am building a 19 foot Offshore Power Dory Boat. I am 65 years old and have spent my life building things for everyone else. I have always wanted to build a boat, so with my wife's blessing that is just what I am doing this winter.
> 
> ...


Daniel, This was my first boat build and when I started I had no idea that the project would take so much time. But I will say, I enjoyed every minute, even the hundreds of hours spent sanding.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

*Continuing with the boat frame*

I am at 65 hours now on this build.

This is just about the hardest project I have every taken on. My progress seems very slow at least to me. The past few weeks I have been working on getting the chine logs and sheer clamps installed. I am a power tool guy and this project is old school hand tools. I am getting a new respect for the old ways.

Next step is to install the chine logs and the sheer clamps. These boards need to be over 20 feet long to wrap around the edges of the boat. I had to scarf two 12' yellow pine 1×4' s together to get that length. This was my first attempt at a scarf joint. I drew the angle on the two boards.










Then I cut both boards at the same time with a Japanese pull saw.










When I was finished I realized that the taper was only 4 times the width of the board instead of the required 8 times.










So I built a jig with a 8 times taper.










I added a board to the bottom of my trim router and used a pattern bit to rout out the taper.










I cut all 8 board for my 4 scarf joints.










Then I put the boards on saw horses and epoxied the scarf joints.










They looked good but I learned another lesson. These are end joints. They wicked up all of the epoxy I put on the joints and the joints failed miserably. I sanded the joints smooth and reapplied the epoxy, letting it soak up all it wanted. Then I re-clamped very lightly and they held this time.










Next I had to cut the slots in the transom and the frames for the chine log. These cuts were done by hand with the pull saw, then I sanded and fitted each so the cut angle matched the lines of the boat.



















Here a picture of one of the chine logs fitted and ready for epoxy.










Another picture of the fitted chine log not epoxied.










Next I installed the chine log, with epoxy and held in place by 2 #10×3" SS deck screws at each frame, transom and stem.










chine log install continued










chine log install continued










Both chine logs installed and epoxied.










Next fit the sheer clamps. I prepared the slots for the sheer clamps the same as with the chine logs, only difference is the angle are greater due to the sweep of the beam of the boat.




























The first sheer clamp board I started bending around the boat broke. The grain in the wood was not straight enough to handle the bend so the board you see on top of the boat is a new sheer clamp scarfed and curing.










I seem to take two steps forward then one or two back. but I am making progress. If I every build another boat I will know a lot more about how to do it.

Tomorrow I am going 100 miles north to Gwynns Island to look at a used boat trailer. I don't need it yet but I found on Craigslist so I need to go while it's available.

Thanks for looking.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

English said:


> *Continuing with the boat frame*
> 
> I am at 65 hours now on this build.
> 
> ...


Keep going I am enjoying reading this.


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## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Continuing with the boat frame*
> 
> I am at 65 hours now on this build.
> 
> ...


Reading backwards to catch up. WOW this is a mega project


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## Bosun (Aug 17, 2016)

English said:


> *Continuing with the boat frame*
> 
> I am at 65 hours now on this build.
> 
> ...


John,
Great work and a nice clear report.
Thanks - an inspiration to others.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

*Fairing the Frame*

Now I have both Sheer Clamps installed and epoxied into the frame. That's the last frame member.



















Frame is now complete!! All Frame pieces installed!! Frame Eleven is still a little off, I will have to fair it out.










Along the way I made a few bad cuts. Here I cut too deep and at the wrong angle, So I made a shim 8" long and epoxied it in to correct the problem I made the shim 8" long and epoxied it to both the chine log and the frame. At 8" it won't split when the mounting screws goes through.



















Shim from another angle..










Still another angle on the shim..










After I installed the first Sheer Clamp I opened the garage door stepped outside and noticed that the stem had been pulled to the starboard side by 2". So I used a pipe clamp and pulled it back. Then as I was installing the other Sheer Clamp I noticed that the first frame from the stem was collapsing under the pressure of the two Sheer Clamps. So I added a temporary brace to hold it out. I will have to put something permanent here when the boat is turned over to hold it out. the new brace will be part of the cabin framing.










Now on to the fairing process.










This will have to be faired off level with the keelson.










This also..










All of the side frames will be faired to match the angle the chine and sheer have as they pass the frame.










Fairing the side frames.



















Fairing the keelson This board had a slight twist. I bought this board in one piece 24' and cut it to the 17' needed.










I added a 2" x 4" board to the side of the stem to give me more area to attach the plywood to at the stem. Most of this board was faired away.



















A look at the stem with the new thickening boards from the front.










Fairing the side frames, I used several planes and sanders for this job.










Picture of a well faired side frame. The face of the frame matches the angle of the sheer clamp.










Another picture showing the side frame fairing.










Fairing is complete. I plan to go back now and add some thickened epoxy to fill in some of the bad cuts below the water line…

I mixed some thickened epoxy and went back and filled the bad cuts below the water line. This seals this end grain so if water gets in it will not soak it up so fast.










Thickened epoxy fills bad cuts. I used the saw dust in my shop vac separator from the fairing sanding to make the thickened epoxy.










I also filled the gaps on the new stem thickening boards with the thickened epoxy.



















Frame Fairing is complete.. Next is plywood installation…










Here is a Video of the completed frame. 




I went and got my 1/2" Douglas fir Marine Plywood today for the sides and the transom. I had to order the 5/8" Marine plywood needed for the bottom. It will be in next week.

I am working by myself so installing the plywood should present a few challenges. I am at 84 hours now.

Thanks for looking!!


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## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Fairing the Frame*
> 
> Now I have both Sheer Clamps installed and epoxied into the frame. That's the last frame member.
> 
> ...


John, 
This is a neat project, I just happened to find it. I'll follow this through, this is quite the undertaking. 
Keep up the good work.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Fairing the Frame*
> 
> Now I have both Sheer Clamps installed and epoxied into the frame. That's the last frame member.
> 
> ...


Looking good John.
Will you be scarfing the plywood or using backing doublers under butt joints?
You will have a fine vessel here and it will give you a great feeling to know that you built her with your own hands.
Good work.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Fairing the Frame*
> 
> Now I have both Sheer Clamps installed and epoxied into the frame. That's the last frame member.
> 
> ...


Paul,

I plan to use backing doublers on the side planking and the side to side joints on the bottom planking. There will be one joint down the 16' of the length of the boat over the keelson. Using the keelson for the joint backer. I plant to use 6" fiberglass over each joint, then two layers of 6oz cloth over the entire hull.

Thanks


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Fairing the Frame*
> 
> Now I have both Sheer Clamps installed and epoxied into the frame. That's the last frame member.
> 
> ...


An 8:1 scarf with epoxy will be as strong as the rest of the plywood and need no backer at all but, even if you do use a backer a simple scarf, something like 4:1 maybe, will stop the joint from telegraphing to the surface. A plain butt will telegraph. It will have the structural strength alright, just thinking of the appearance. I never use backers in plywood, just 8:1 scarfs.
This blog post might help show it.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Fairing the Frame*
> 
> Now I have both Sheer Clamps installed and epoxied into the frame. That's the last frame member.
> 
> ...


Paul,

I would love to do scarf joints down the sides where it would show, but I am building this boat by my self. No help. I don't think that I can handle a 21' by 42" piece of 1/2" plywood. Can you fit up and glue the scarfs on the boat one piece at a time?


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Fairing the Frame*
> 
> Now I have both Sheer Clamps installed and epoxied into the frame. That's the last frame member.
> 
> ...


Yes, when I built the Harbour Ferries the top sides were one piece of continuous plywood from port bow to stbd bow with a round stern. I installed the sides first and then scarfed in the curved stern in place to complete the continuous piece.
Seems I have a blog for everything. This one covers that job.


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## canoecraig (Jul 15, 2013)

English said:


> *Fairing the Frame*
> 
> Now I have both Sheer Clamps installed and epoxied into the frame. That's the last frame member.
> 
> ...


Looks like you have a great project going, how are the Spira plans? I have been looking at the sailing sharpie plans, and don't want to waste money.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Fairing the Frame*
> 
> Now I have both Sheer Clamps installed and epoxied into the frame. That's the last frame member.
> 
> ...


Canoecraig, The plans give you all of the dimensions for each frame and the spacing for all the parts. On the Spira International site, Jeff Spira has a page called reports. Here he has put building guides for both plywood on frame boats and Stitch and Glue boats. Between the guides and the plans you have all the information you need to build the boat. I have been getting a lot of advice from Paul (shipwright) from this site. I also have emailed questions to Jeff Spira and he answers in a day or two. If you look thru the reports section you will find other post about things like how to build a scarf joint. So it's all there you just have to look.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

*Installing Plywood Planking on Sides*

I now have 105 hours in the build and the boat weight is 622 lb. I have been weighing each piece as it is installed.

I know I said at the end of the last blog segment that I was done with the frame, but I have decided to install a under deck fuel tank. So before I can install the plywood I need to add a little structural support for the tank. I used a router and made several recesses in two of the frames to hold a section of 2" x 4". I put in 4 of these.










Finished frame recess for fuel tank support.










Finished frame recess for fuel tank support.










Four fuel tank supports installed with epoxy.










Now we can get on with the plywood planking. I started with the transom with the plywood installation.










Plywood is sized about 1 " bigger than the transom. I put epoxy on both the plywood and the transom frame. Then clamped it in place and screwed it with #8×1 1/2" Stainless Steel deck screws.










Transom Plywood is 5/8" Douglas Fir installed with epoxy and SS deck screws and trimmed to fit with a Router using a flush trim bit. The top in the picture was planed with a block plan to the angle needed to match the bottom of the boat.










This is the router and bit used to trim the transom.










Next I clamped a sheet of 1/2" Douglass Fir Marine Plywood to the frame Starting at the bow.










same sheet from another angle..










While the sheet was on the frame I got inside the frame and marked all of the frame members touching the sheet of plywood. I used a compass and marked the edge 1/2" larger than the frame and I cut the sheet by the outer lines.










When I installed the cut sheet of plywood to the frame and started clamping down tight. The face veneer started splintering, cracking and popping. I almost panicked. I PM'ed Paul (Shipwright) We discussed several solutions. When I went back to the shop, I did some investigating, After investigating I found that a 8" section of one of the frames exactly where the splintering was occurring was not faired correctly. This picture shows the issue. The ruler is the plane the plywood will be in.










Here the first sheet is put back on the frame to test fit after the fairing is corrected.










This is the same panel, the two 2" x 4" x 8' board are used to flatten the sheet of plywood, it was bowed due to the compound bends.










The starboard side of the boat with all three sheets of plywood test fitted and ready for epoxy and screws.





































The first side with the plywood epoxied and screwed in place.










First sheet installed on the port side of the boat. The wet looking spot on the plywood is epoxy. I had a problem on this side too with splintering and cracking of the face veneer. I checked the fairing on this side before I started it was good. There appears to be a little more bend at frame 10 on this side. Looks like the chine log was weak at this frame and bent different than the one on the starboard side. The wet epoxy stopped the splintering immediately and once it cures it will strengthen the fiber of the wood so there will not be a problem.

I want to thank Paul (shipwright) for all his support on this project. It is so great that this community provides access to so much support for it's member by the members. Thanks again Paul.










A close up picture of the face veneer damage.










Here is a look at the beginning of a butt joint for splicing two sheets of plywood together. The backer plywood is the same thickness and 6" wide. It is epoxied and screwed in place.










I noticed after I had finished installing the plywood on the starboard side of the boat that I had inadvertently pulled the frame out of level while installing the plywood. The front of the boat from frame 9 forward twisted and was about 1" out of level. When I installed the first sheet of plywood on the port side I used three pipe clamps and pulled the frame back to level and the first sheet of plywood is holding it there.










Second and third sheet of plywood installed on the port side.



















A look from the front with all side plywood installed. Now I have to trim these sheets and get ready to put the bottom on the boat. You may have noticed that the sides of this boat are very tall. They average 40". This boat is designed to handle surf launches and recoveries. The high sides will keep the surf out. The boat will also have a self bailing deck.










On the next segment I will be fairing the side plywood even with the top of the chine logs to get ready for bottom planking and installing the bottom plywood planking.

Thanks for looking.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

English said:


> *Installing Plywood Planking on Sides*
> 
> I now have 105 hours in the build and the boat weight is 622 lb. I have been weighing each piece as it is installed.
> 
> ...


I really like your project, but I gotta tell ya this…You need a bigger bote! 

I have been offshore out of Galveston and Freeport, Tx a few times. Some days, even a thirty footer will get ya beat up. :-(

Not too bad if you can pick your days and stay close. I did take my 21 footer out 20 miles or so, but we had a buddy boat and the day was slick as glass. And hot as all get outs! :-(

Good luck with your build.
Mike


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## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Installing Plywood Planking on Sides*
> 
> I now have 105 hours in the build and the boat weight is 622 lb. I have been weighing each piece as it is installed.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mike,

I don't plan to ever take it out past the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel. I may travel down the inter-coastal waterway to Nags Head, But that will be it. I chose a boat with the high sides because of the big ship traffic in Hampton Roads Harbor.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Installing Plywood Planking on Sides*
> 
> I now have 105 hours in the build and the boat weight is 622 lb. I have been weighing each piece as it is installed.
> 
> ...


Nice work.
I'm always happy to help anyone building a boat. You're very welcome.


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## MT_Stringer (Jul 21, 2009)

English said:


> *Installing Plywood Planking on Sides*
> 
> I now have 105 hours in the build and the boat weight is 622 lb. I have been weighing each piece as it is installed.
> 
> ...





> Thanks Mike,
> 
> I don t plan to ever take it out past the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel. I may travel down the inter-coastal waterway to Nags Head, But that will be it. I chose a boat with the high sides because of the big ship traffic in Hampton Roads Harbor.
> 
> - English


Thanks John. Looking forward to following your build.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

*Installing Bottom Plywood Planking*

I now have 120 hours in the build and the boat weight is 779 lb. I have been weighing each piece as it is installed.

A look from under the boat. with all the side plywood installed, This boat has a 8 foot beam and 19.5 ft long.




























A inside look at one of the butt splice backer boards.










Next we have to trim the side panel down and fair them even with the top of the chine logs. I used a router with a flush trim bit to get the sides down to the small lip you see in this picture.










Here I am using a side grinder with 36 grit paper to make quick work of the fairing. I ran my dust collector with 3 - 6" ports open to the room and my overhead air cleaner and the dust didn't get too bad. I will have a job cleaning the shop after this project.



















This side has been faired and is ready for the bottom plywood.










After fairing the side plywood even with the top of the chine log I laid the first sheet of 5/8" Douglass Fir marine plywood on the frame lined it up and marked the underside for trimming and marked all of the frames touched by the panel. Latter I will paint on epoxy where it is marked.










Frame marking on the bottom of one of the panels I trimmed the panel alone the curved outer line with an circular saw.










Trimmed panel ready to be out back on boat.










All three panels on the starboard side ready to be epoxied and screwed in place.



















Starboard side ready for epoxy and screws. Look at the grain patterns on the first long sheet on the bottom of the boat. This is rotary cut veneer on the Douglass Fir plywood. Wild patterns!!










Monday I will cut the other two panels for the port side and epoxy a screw all five sheets of plywood down.










I need to be able to hit the chine log with my screws every time, be in the middle of the board and not split the chine log. So I made this marking jig to mark the center of the chine log. Worked great.










Here is how the marking jig works. You just slide it around the boat and it marks the chine center dead on.










First bottom sheet epoxied and screwed down.










One side done working on the other side.










Each of the plywood panels were placed on the boat frame and marked from the inside where the boat frames touched the plywood. After the plywood panel were trimmed, I painted epoxy on to the panel where it touches the frame and on the frame. The plywood is so dry it soaks up most of what is painted on it. If you only put the epoxy only on the frame the plywood would soak up most of it and you may end up with a dry joint.










Frame and plywood panel covered with epoxy ready to put together.










Third sheet epoxied and screwed down.










All plywood now on boat!!!




























All of the Marine Plywood is now installed on the hull. The only thing that will add more weight to the hull before it is turned over is the fiberglass and epoxy. I plan to put two layers of 6 oz. fiberglass and at least three coats of epoxy on the entire outside of the hull. This should add another 50 lbs. or so.

Next is to fair the bottom plywood to meet the side plywood and at the same angle as the sides. This will have to be done with hand plans and an array of sanders and rasps.

Thanks for Looking!!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Installing Bottom Plywood Planking*
> 
> I now have 120 hours in the build and the boat weight is 779 lb. I have been weighing each piece as it is installed.
> 
> ...


Looks great John. ....... but you need a power plane. They are much faster and less dusty than all that grinding. 
At this point it looks a lot like a couple of sailing dories I once built.

Good photos and write-up as well. There's really nothing better than building boats but watching someone build one is pretty close.

Thanks for this.


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

English said:


> *Installing Bottom Plywood Planking*
> 
> I now have 120 hours in the build and the boat weight is 779 lb. I have been weighing each piece as it is installed.
> 
> ...


John,

We are enjoying your blog, but we don't agree with Paul. It is much nicer to read and enjoy vicariously than to think about lifting and struggling with those big pieces of plywood and trying to get everything in place and done right!

Thanks for sharing.

L/W


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## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Installing Bottom Plywood Planking*
> 
> I now have 120 hours in the build and the boat weight is 779 lb. I have been weighing each piece as it is installed.
> 
> ...


John,
Just finished reading #4 and #5, you are a man on a mission. Great narrative and pictures. 
You will be in the water this spring at the rate you are going. 
I look forward to #6 this is a very interesting project. 
Bob


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## English (May 10, 2014)

*Fairing the plywood for Fiberglass and First layer of Glass.*

I am at 153 hours on the build and the boat weighs 805 lbs.

In my last post I had finished installing all of the plywood. The bottom plywood still needed fairing to the edge of the side plywood and to the same angle as the side plywood. I had planned on doing this with a sander, after a comment from Paul (shipwright) I did this work with a power planer and man was that easy. I was able to keep the planer connected to my shop vac and there was no mess to be cleaned up either. Thanks, Paul.










Next I need to fill in all of the screw holes and the joints and seams between the sheets of plywood. To do this I mixed up some epoxy and wood flour. Wood flour cost $18.00 for 1/2 gallon. So having a 5 hp. drum sander and plenty of scrap Douglass Fir left over from the frames I decided to make my own. I need the flour as fine as possible so I put a old 150 grit belt on the front drum of my sander, changed the bag in my duct collector and started sanding. Ten minutes later I had close to 3 gallons of Flour (fine saw dust).



















I used this flour to mix with the epoxy to make the filler for filling all the holes and seams.














































I then sanded this smooth and re-coated with filler and sanded again. Now it's time to layout the first layer of fiberglass.

So I started on the bottom, then the sides, then the transom.























































It took me 8 hours to get the bottom and one side wet out. I have discovered that I purchased the wrong grade cloth. What I have is 6 oz. 35×35 strands per inch cloth which is used as a finish cloth for airplane wings. You literally have to force the epoxy into the cloth. Regular 6 oz boat cloth is 18×18 strands per inch.

So I stopped for the night and the next morning I discovered that one of my 16 batches of epoxy from the day before was not curing. I gave it another day and after talking with Paul (shipwright) I decided to remove all of the fiberglass that was affected by the bad epoxy mix. Here is a video of the mess. 






















After removing the affected fiberglass I had to use Acetone to remove the uncured epoxy. Then I sanded the surface to get what had soaked into the wood fibers. I also sanded back into the good cured epoxy and fiberglass about 1 inch to give myself a good edge to bond to.










I then cut out fiberglass to fit my repair area and epoxied it in place. The next day I finished the other side and the transom.





































The boat now has one layer of fiberglass on the entire outside of the hull. My plans call for two layers. I decided that I was not going to use any more of the finish grade cloth. Too much work. So I have ordered regular boat cloth from a boat parts supplier. I will add the next layer when it arrives. I will have to sand between coats to feather the edges of the fiberglass where it overlaps and sand off all runs and a light sanding on the entire boat to get a better bond with the next coat..

I will update in a week or so,

Thanks for looking.


----------



## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

English said:


> *Fairing the plywood for Fiberglass and First layer of Glass.*
> 
> I am at 153 hours on the build and the boat weighs 805 lbs.
> 
> ...


Things are looking good. I always worry about mix when working with any epoxy.


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Fairing the plywood for Fiberglass and First layer of Glass.*
> 
> I am at 153 hours on the build and the boat weighs 805 lbs.
> 
> ...


Yea I think I reversed the two containers and got the 2 to 1 ratio backwards. I am being very careful now.


----------



## ronniebo (Feb 7, 2011)

English said:


> *Fairing the plywood for Fiberglass and First layer of Glass.*
> 
> I am at 153 hours on the build and the boat weighs 805 lbs.
> 
> ...


Aahh--those seniors moments-I have `em all the time.
This will definitely be a "Power" boat after all the power you have invested in it.
Great work.
RB


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Fairing the plywood for Fiberglass and First layer of Glass.*
> 
> I am at 153 hours on the build and the boat weighs 805 lbs.
> 
> ...


You are doing great John. Those photos look very familiar. I've glassed a lot of upside down boats just about that size. Your work looks excellent.
I still can't imagine why your designer wants two layers of glass. .......


> ?


?



Keep us posted. This is exciting stuff.


----------



## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Fairing the plywood for Fiberglass and First layer of Glass.*
> 
> I am at 153 hours on the build and the boat weighs 805 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,
I admire your patience as you work through the "learning curve". We're never too old to learn. 
Keep up the great work.


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

*Finishing the Fiberglass on the Boat*

I am at 180 hours on the build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.










Since my last update I have added another layer of fiberglass to the entire boat and 3 coats of epoxy filler. I had some issues with the epoxy fill coats, the epoxy I am using is 600cc viscosity. that's very thin. It runs very badly . I discovered today after sanding off my runs from the 2nd coat, that if I used a 1/4" foam roller, I could roll it on thin enough that it did not run. It did leave a lot of bubbles in the epoxy. But I remembered something I read on a boat builder's forum, that a hair dyer or heat gun would bust the bubbles. I was amazed at how quick and easy the bubbles disappeared. Just waving the gun over the epoxy at 10" from the surface and keeping it moving very fast took care of all the bubbles.

I do have a few runs on the transom but they will sand out easily tomorrow.

The second layer went on much like the first except I reversed the side on the bottom where the cloth overlapped to keep from having a ridge to have to fair.









































































After I wet out all of the second layer of fiberglass. I let it cure for two days then following a recommendation from Paul (shipwright), I sanded the epoxy that was sitting proud of the fiberglass weave smooth. This did away with the deep voids that would have taken a lot more epoxy to fill.

Here I am sanding off the epoxy. I am wearing the suit because I also am feathering the edges of the overlaps in the fiberglass. Also the epoxy is not finished curing. Uncured epoxy will finish curing where ever it is. In your eyes in your lungs. So I chose the suit and full face respirator for my safety.



















Here is a close up of what I was sanding.










Here is what the boat looks like with 3 coats of epoxy fill. I only used 1/2 gallon of epoxy on all three coats.














































Next I sand the epoxy smooth, Use System 3 Quick Fair to fill in any low spots, sand again then paint. I will update again after the paint job.

Thanks for looking.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Finishing the Fiberglass on the Boat*
> 
> I am at 180 hours on the build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


I think I've said it before here but …. Boy, these pictures look familiar!
Looks like you are doing everything spot on right John.

Good work.

BTW, the fit in your shop looks a bit tighter than mine was.


----------



## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

English said:


> *Finishing the Fiberglass on the Boat*
> 
> I am at 180 hours on the build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


That glass looks good.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

English said:


> *Finishing the Fiberglass on the Boat*
> 
> I am at 180 hours on the build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


i cant believe you would show FRIENDSHIP in her underwear….lol…she might be embarrassed..i love watching the builds on this boat, good work, your boat will be in the water before you know it…and you will smile ear to ear, thanks for taking us along….


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

English said:


> *Finishing the Fiberglass on the Boat*
> 
> I am at 180 hours on the build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,

Your boat is really taking shape! I'm enjoying your blog.

L/W


----------



## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Finishing the Fiberglass on the Boat*
> 
> I am at 180 hours on the build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,
It's really taking shape and it's fun reading about Paul's helping you through the rough spots. 
It will interesting to see how you turn this over. I have noticed the shop is getting much smaller.


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Finishing the Fiberglass on the Boat*
> 
> I am at 180 hours on the build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


Bob the flip will be tough. I plan to move it outside. I hope to get about ten neighbors to help. If I can' t get enough help I will build a ganty crane over it outside and use a hoist.

The size of the shop is what determined the size of the boat I could build. If I had more room I would have built a 24- 27 footer.


----------



## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Finishing the Fiberglass on the Boat*
> 
> I am at 180 hours on the build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,
Like Paul telling you that you needed a plane
I respectfully suggest you get a commercial crane.
I've not had experience in rigging boats but I'm sure Paul will give you guidance on sling placement and cross supports or he may have trick for doing it another way. 
I would hate to see all that beautiful worked damaged.
Those small cranes are very reasonable.
Bob


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Finishing the Fiberglass on the Boat*
> 
> I am at 180 hours on the build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


Bob,

I've done a good bit of research on the flip. I plan to build a cradle around the boat similar to this.









While it is in the cradle upside down I plan to remove the legs from the strong-back that it's on now in my shop.










I hope at this point that I can get enough help from my neighbors to lift it up and flip it onto it's side. Then with a rope connected to my truck control the last 90 degrees to the ground. If I can't get enough help. I will then build a gantry similar to this and use two chain hoists connected to the cradle.


----------



## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Finishing the Fiberglass on the Boat*
> 
> I am at 180 hours on the build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


Ingenuity in action, you and David Mitchell (Patron) sure know how to improvise. 
Please do share pictures on the flip.


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

*Getting the boat ready for paint, Painting, flipping the boat over.*

I am at 200 hours on this build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.

After putting all the epoxy on the boat it had to be sanded. Epoxy is not self leveling. It orange peels very badly. I sanded for two days. Epoxy is very hard after it cures.










After sanding I washed the boat with water. Then washed with lacquer thinner. After cleaning the boat I taped off the sides to get ready for paint.










Then I painted the bottom with five very thin coats of Interlux VC Performance Epoxy with Teflon. This paint has more fumes than any thing I have every been around. Had to change clothes and put them in the washer each time I came in from the shop for a full week.










Now it's time to move the boat outside to be flipped over.



















I had a problem with the stem digging into the ground.



















I built a cradle around the boat to make sure that it would turn over safely and not get damaged during the process. I left the 2×6 's long so that the boat would stop at 90 degrees and we could then slide the boat back in front of the door before we let it down.










The cradle is put together with deck screws and I added a 1/2" cap bolt at each connection of cross member and upright.








'

I gathered up 8 of my neighbors and we flipped the boat up.























































We slid the boat over in front of the door.










Then I sawed off the tall uprights. and we continued with the flip.




























I placed 4 furniture dollies under the boat.




























The rope hooked to a truck carried most of the load on the way down.



















As soon as the boat was down we took off the cradle and moved the boat back into the shop.





































The boat is now back in the shop.




























Here is a video of the flip. 




Now I can get started with finishing the inside of the boat. I plan to add a cabin and a pilot house, so lots of work to go.

Thanks for looking!!


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

English said:


> *Getting the boat ready for paint, Painting, flipping the boat over.*
> 
> I am at 200 hours on this build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


WHEW~ !!!
I'm tired just looking at the pictures! 
.
.
But it sure does look like a boat now!


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

English said:


> *Getting the boat ready for paint, Painting, flipping the boat over.*
> 
> I am at 200 hours on this build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


well my back is totally out and i need to sit in the hot tub for awhile…lol….so glad for you to have the boat turned over, now the fun will continue


----------



## JulianLech (Jan 13, 2011)

English said:


> *Getting the boat ready for paint, Painting, flipping the boat over.*
> 
> I am at 200 hours on this build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


That's something you don't see everyday.


----------



## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

English said:


> *Getting the boat ready for paint, Painting, flipping the boat over.*
> 
> I am at 200 hours on this build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


That's kind of like building a boat in the basement. Really enjoying your blogs.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Getting the boat ready for paint, Painting, flipping the boat over.*
> 
> I am at 200 hours on this build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


Ahhh, familiar stuff. You did a fine job of that righting. Lots of people don't take the task seriously enough and only discover their mistake when the hull gets away form them. No chance of that with your robust rolling jig.

Well done.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

English said:


> *Getting the boat ready for paint, Painting, flipping the boat over.*
> 
> I am at 200 hours on this build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


Nice job on the pictures! It can be easy to just do the work and forget to snap the pics. I appreciate seeing your work.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

English said:


> *Getting the boat ready for paint, Painting, flipping the boat over.*
> 
> I am at 200 hours on this build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,

We were a little nervous having to lift such a large boat; you made us feel that we were part of it! And, yes, our backs are aching, too.

You certainly have some good neighbors to be willing to coordinate their time to make the flip. Did you promise each of them a personal ride on your boat?

Now the excitement begins with the cabin! It won't be long until your wife can do the interior decorating!

L/W


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Getting the boat ready for paint, Painting, flipping the boat over.*
> 
> I am at 200 hours on this build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


Yes, I plan to take all of them fishing..The flip went very smooth and no one got hurt. Was a good day.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

English said:


> *Getting the boat ready for paint, Painting, flipping the boat over.*
> 
> I am at 200 hours on this build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


i want to ask you john what you plan for the powerhouse for this boat, and what is it rated for, ive just been looking back at some of the build again and im pretty excited for ya, i remember when i got my boat, it was the funnest thing i had ever done….and the fishing trips we had was worth every penny…i took my boat out of Seward Alaska, look it up so you can see the area that i was fishing out of…its one of the most beautiful places on Gods Earth….anyway, i cant wait to see your next blog, sure wish i could help some…nothing like building your own boat…enjoy


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Getting the boat ready for paint, Painting, flipping the boat over.*
> 
> I am at 200 hours on this build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


I plan to purchase a 70 hp Yamaha outboard. The boat is rated up to 175 hp max. The designer recommends a 75 hp. I've been talking to a Yamaha dealer. He has data on boats and motors he has sold. He sold a C dory about the same weight with a 70 and it would top out at 30 MPH and curse at 20 MPH at 4000 RPM. 20 MPH is a little faster than I want to go. Here in the harbor 12 - 15 will be normal.

I hope to have it in the water in two months, Today I epoxied the inside of the hull to seal all of the wood. I plan to put a coat of paint on tomorrow and then get stated with the top rail, rub rail, and cabin. Lots of work to go.

Thanks


----------



## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Getting the boat ready for paint, Painting, flipping the boat over.*
> 
> I am at 200 hours on this build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,
Well planned, well executed and presented. 
You are blessed by having such good neighbors. 
In your honor I've just breathed a huge sigh of relief. 
I'll stay tuned for the next episode.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

English said:


> *Getting the boat ready for paint, Painting, flipping the boat over.*
> 
> I am at 200 hours on this build and the boat weighs 835 lbs.
> 
> ...


Great job. You have given me more inspiration to build my own boat, but for sailing. I have the plans picked out and currently in the process of build a shop to get back into woodworking. I have to add a little length, to accommodate a build in the future. Against n great job and thanks for good neighbors. Looking forward to see more.


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

*Building a Cabin*

I have 266 hours in the build so far, and the boat weighs 982 lbs.

Since my last update. I have added a coat of epoxy to the inside of the boat and two coats of Rustoleum Marine paint. This wore me out. The epoxy can't be sprayed so you have to use brushes and rollers. Working on the inside is much harder on the old body, I don't work well on these old knee replacements.










Here the tops of the sides have been routed even with the shear clamp.










The next task is to get the foredeck and the gunwales installed. Here I have installed a support at frame Eleven to support the foredeck. I added a little bow to help water to run off.










I am adding supports for the Gunwales and the Inwales. I have installed these so that the Gunwale will be tilted out of the boat forward of the cabin and pilot house the flat in the open area back aft.




























Every one of these supports has a compound angle, and everyone is different. There are 22 of them.










The Inwales are installed and a scarf joint is glued up on the boat.



















The front wall of the cabin is installed slightly rounded



















I was able to route off the excess plywood from the top but had to use a hand saw for the sides.










The top support is rounded both to the front plywood and for the roof plywood.



















Next I built the wall between the cabin and pilot house.



















Before the roof is installed I ruffed in the cabin Berth and Head. Most of the covers will have hinges installed and the area under the berth will be enclosed will Luan Plywood and used for storage. The berth is 6' 3" long.



















We are going to use a Porta Potty for our Head.










Cabin top side supports have been dadoed into the cabin walls, the center supports will hold a cabin hatch and still need to be dadoed into the cabin walls.



















I will continue working on the cabin and build the pilot house. Still have decks and electrical left to go plus fiber-glassing the cabin, pilot house, foredeck and gunwales. I am shooting for June 1 to be ready to float the boat.

Thanks for looking.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

English said:


> *Building a Cabin*
> 
> I have 266 hours in the build so far, and the boat weighs 982 lbs.
> 
> ...


oh man …my body hurts right along with yours buddy…yep them down on your knees would have don me in, i don't have any new knees….the inside fiberglass is gonna be a killer…sorry, but i will add you to my prayers….when you take it out, you will deserve that ride….its looking really good* john*, I'm proud of another buddy here on jocks that i have known that built his own boat.*..Paul* is first….your second…its my prayer that i get to go out in friendship some day…and if I'm ver your way , maybe if i hold my thumb just right , i might get a ride on yours….lol…..enjoy the build.


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Building a Cabin*
> 
> I have 266 hours in the build so far, and the boat weighs 982 lbs.
> 
> ...


Grizzman, Any time you are in the Norfolk Area, Let me know and I will take you out.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Building a Cabin*
> 
> I have 266 hours in the build so far, and the boat weighs 982 lbs.
> 
> ...


Coming along so very well John.
... and I'd be honoured to take either of you out for a sail on Friendship if you get out my way.
I just got home today and I will be giving her a big hug first thing tomorrow morning.


----------



## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

English said:


> *Building a Cabin*
> 
> I have 266 hours in the build so far, and the boat weighs 982 lbs.
> 
> ...


It is progressing well. I am enjoying watching this.


----------



## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Building a Cabin*
> 
> I have 266 hours in the build so far, and the boat weighs 982 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,
The ship is really starting to take shape. 
I feel your pain on working in close quarters but it's a labor of love. I've only spent time doing maintenance on the boats I've owned but it was always a pleasure. 
I look forward to the next post.


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

*Completing the Cabin and Building Pilot House*

I am at 324 Hours on this build and the boat weighs 1150 lbs.

I have made good progress the last few weeks. I will say again this is much harder than building furniture. Every piece that goes on the Boat is either curved or at a compound angle. Each piece has to be hand fit. Many trips into the boat and back to the saws.

All of the cabin roof supports are installed and the interior cabin wall is in.










All of the interior cabin walls are in and wiring for the cabin lights is installed.



















Insulation has been installed.



















Time to install the cabin side walls and the pilot house sides.










Framing is added to the sides.










The side is routed to the frame.










Both cabin / pilot house sides are in.










The windshield is added. This gave me a fit. I did this twice. My first attempt failed and I contacted a friend in Louisiana, He graciously sent me step by step instructions with pictures and 6 hours later success. Thanks Herman.



















The rear support is added . I transferred the Arc from the back support of the pilot house to the windshield with a 6' level.










Here the windshield arc has been cut. I did this with a side grinder with 36 grit sand paper.










Next I added rafters and permanent supports for the rear roof support. Maintaining the 83 degree angle of the sides.










A lot of work was done between the last two pictures. I added the side ends for the pilot house and installed the roof. The clamps show adding thickness to the pilot house roof and the visor. The side windows were added. They are in the curve of the bow so the glass will have to bend about 3/4" in 24". The guy at the glass shop said it would not be a problem.



















Here I am adding thickness to the visor..



















I have filled in the front of the visor with solid wood. I will fill in the gaps with thickened epoxy later.





































The starboard dash is built.










Both starboard and port dash framed.










Conduit is run through the deck are back to the batteries and the bilge pumps. The tees are for some down shining deck lights.




























I'm almost finished with the conduit. Hope to have the wire pulled by the weekend.










I pick up my rigging from marine dealer tomorrow So I should be able to get the wiring finished in a few days.

Thanks for looking.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Completing the Cabin and Building Pilot House*
> 
> I am at 324 Hours on this build and the boat weighs 1150 lbs.
> 
> ...


Coming right along John.
Funny, I find straight lines and square corners a challenge…... 
It all gets easier the more of them you build.

She's going to be a fine vessel!


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

English said:


> *Completing the Cabin and Building Pilot House*
> 
> I am at 324 Hours on this build and the boat weighs 1150 lbs.
> 
> ...


Lots of progress! Its been fun to watch this build - thanks for sharing.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

English said:


> *Completing the Cabin and Building Pilot House*
> 
> I am at 324 Hours on this build and the boat weighs 1150 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,

That's really getting to be quite a boat! Too bad you don't live in our neck of the woods so we could go fishing with you!

L/W


----------



## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Completing the Cabin and Building Pilot House*
> 
> I am at 324 Hours on this build and the boat weighs 1150 lbs.
> 
> ...


Great lines John, I particularly like the visor. You are really closing in on this project. 
Keep up the blog it's great reading.


----------



## PERLarryC (Feb 14, 2014)

English said:


> *Completing the Cabin and Building Pilot House*
> 
> I am at 324 Hours on this build and the boat weighs 1150 lbs.
> 
> ...


That pilot house looks pretty tall. Will it fit through the overhead door?


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Completing the Cabin and Building Pilot House*
> 
> I am at 324 Hours on this build and the boat weighs 1150 lbs.
> 
> ...


Larry,

The top of the pilot house is 7' 2" off the floor and the garage door is 8' 5". So no problem getting it through the door, but getting it on the trailer will be another story.


----------



## bigsgt (Jul 12, 2017)

English said:


> *Completing the Cabin and Building Pilot House*
> 
> I am at 324 Hours on this build and the boat weighs 1150 lbs.
> 
> ...


I Love your boat do you still have the plan on how to make a cabin [email protected] 407 497-3670


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Completing the Cabin and Building Pilot House*
> 
> I am at 324 Hours on this build and the boat weighs 1150 lbs.
> 
> ...


Paul,

Thanks for the comment. I didn't have any plans for the cabin. I just new how I wanted it to look and I started putting wood on the boat. I just started by determining the height I needed in my cabin. I put in the front wall and the rear bulkhead. Then added the framing, just like the blog shows. I was always conscious of the lines and the appearance. I would be happy to answer any questions you have if you build one.

John


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

*Closing up the decks, Getting the Rigging Ready.*

I am at 408 hours on this build and the boat weighs 1,237 lbs.

I have been working on closing up the decks and getting everything ready to glass the topsides and paint. Progress seems slow but as I look over the pictures for this segment I see that a lot did get done.










Conduits have been run to panel areas in the cabin.










I installed two bilge pumps, one on each side of the keelson that separates the bilge area.










Each pump is spliced into the power feeds using butt splices and shrink tubing to waterproof the connections.










Before I can close up the deck I needed to add the 1×4 braces shown in the plans. I also sanded the paint off the top edge of the deck supports for the glue to make good contact.










Next I filled in the open spaces on the transom with 2×4 material and sealed it with caulk then painted. This will make sealing the self bailing deck to the transom much easier.










The only conduit below the deck is a 1/2" tube for the fuel tank level sensor. All others are above the deck under the gunwales.

The boat has been vacuumed and cleaned ready for the deck.










Well the bilge wiring does go below the deck because the pumps are there.










The boat is wood, so it will float. After going through the USCG calculations for positive flotation, I found that the boat has enough floatation to float the boat, motor, and fuel , but needed 6 more cu/ft of floatation foam to be able to hold up a full load of passengers. The boat can handle 8 adults.

Here I have partitioned off between two frames with foam board insulation to contain the expanding flotation foam.










This foam expands very quickly. You have 30 second to mix it, then pour and it is finished expanding in 30 to 40 seconds. So I mixed it in small batches and poured to try and keep it level. After I finished I took and hand saw and sawed off the excess.










After an hour the foam was hard enough to support my weight. This area with both the foam board and the expanding foam adds 7 cu / ft. of flotation. Each cu /ft. will add 61 lbs. of flotation.










I took Paul's (shipwright) advice and pre-glassed the deck panels on saw horses. This was much easier than crawling around on the floor.










Here the pre-glassed panels have been installed and a 1×6 x 12' fir board has been installed to seal the self bailing deck.










I installed 3 deck access hatches to access the bilge.










I used thickened epoxy to seal up the seams and screw holes on the deck panels



















Next I needed to install deck side panels to keep any water that may get inside the boat on the self bailing deck. To level out the frame I needed a 3/4" filler. I decided to use 3/4" foam board, it is lite and adds 2 cu/ft of floatation.



















I fitted the side panels to both sides using 3/8" marine Douglas Fir plywood.










After I finished fitting the side panels, I removed them to Fiberglass them on saw horses.

The two inch conduit is for the Yamaha controls from the helm area back to the motor. I plan to add another 1" conduit for the hydraulic tubing for the steering. Both will be covered with a 8" white oak board.










When I got ready to drill my transom for the Yamaha Motor I have purchased I found that the 20" motor was actually 21.1" measured straight down from the transom notch to the floor. I had set the notch height based on 20" at the 14 degree angle of the transom. So I need to raise the notch. Here I have milled out 3 1/2" of the 2×4 structure to make room for a new 2×4 support for the transom.




























I added the 2×4 all the way across the transom, using thickened epoxy to fill in the area under the 2 x 4 to the transom, then I routed out the plywood 1 1/2" wider than the new notch opening and 1 1/2" down on the 2×8 on the transom. This allowed me to install a new plywood panel that over lapped the new and the old structure.



















Next I need to close in the side of the pilot house. I plan to take these panel back down for fiber-glassing. They lean into the pilot house I think that would be very hard to glass in place.










After fitting both sides and the ceiling of the pilot hose with panels I laid out the dash, cut and fitted the instruments.




























I have more instruments than I can get on one side of the dash so both sides will be used.










All of the instruments were removed and re boxed and stored in the cabin area. I then removed the dash and reinstalled it with glue. The dash will be glassed and painted.










I enclosed the storage area in the cabin with left over plywood and anchored the head ( porta potty) to the deck.










I have added a frame around the cabin hatch. This will be glassed into the cabin roof.










I am taking a week off and going to visit my mother next week. When I return I plan to start sanding and getting the boat ready for glass.

Thanks for looking.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

English said:


> *Closing up the decks, Getting the Rigging Ready.*
> 
> I am at 408 hours on this build and the boat weighs 1,237 lbs.
> 
> ...


a great build john, im so very excited, this would be a hard thing for me to do, to get this far and then stop for a week, but if your body is as tired as i think it is, you probably need a month off….lol…so glad your going to see your mom, will you be taking her out…you remember the movie, throw mama from the train….LOL…DONT tell her i said thais…lol…beautiful job john, this has been a dream build, if i were to do one more big project, it would to be build a boat….but ive got the feeling that smaller things will come out of my shop if im lucky…..thanks for all the hard work, love the pictures…..bob


----------



## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Closing up the decks, Getting the Rigging Ready.*
> 
> I am at 408 hours on this build and the boat weighs 1,237 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,
I've been anxiously awaiting the next chapter of your project and as usual it just keeps getting more interesting. 
I like your style of describing the build, giving credits to those who helped along the way and how you've dealt with the inevitable hiccups that you have dealt with. 
A great builder, writer and taking a week off to visit your mother, a great son. 
Bob


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

English said:


> *Closing up the decks, Getting the Rigging Ready.*
> 
> I am at 408 hours on this build and the boat weighs 1,237 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,

You've done such an excellent job of documenting this fine build. It really is interesting reading and the photos are great. It looks like you're getting pretty close to the home stretch!

L/W


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

*Finishing Topsides and Painting*

I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.

It has been over a month since I updated the blog. I have been working on finishing the topsides of the boat to get it ready to paint. In my last blog I had all the topside built except for the splash well. So my next job was to mix up thickened epoxy and fill screw holes and seams.





































While I was working on sanding thickened epoxy I removed the pilot house inside panels and my wife glassed them on saw horses.



















After sanding all of the thickened epoxy smooth, I proceeded with fiber-glassing the topsides, here I am fiber-glassing the dash










Next the roof gets glassed down onto the sides.










Then windshield was glassed.










Then I glassed in the cabin hatch frame.










I continued on with adding fiberglass next was the pilot house side panels. 
Glass from the cabin roof is turned up on the bottom of the windshield.



















Then glass the other side of the pilot house.










Inside panels of the pilot house are reinstalled and the glass is trimmed on the dash.










Fiberglass is applied to the cabin pilot house wall.










After all of the topside are glassed then all of the glass laps has the edges feathered and sanded down to the top of the fabric before adding fill coats of epoxy.










First Fill coat of epoxy have been applied.










Next is was time to build the motor splash-well. I had left this off because I was using the notch in the transom to access the boat.



















Thickened epoxy used to fill screw holes and seams and filets made for the inside corners.




























Second and third fill coats applied to topsides










Topside fiberglass sanded smooth.










Next I applied fiberglass to the splash well.










A epoxy filet is added around the under the roof.










Its time to install the Bow Eye. Here in this picture you can see where I bored through the plywood and glass from inside, The holes in the stem were drilled on the drill press before I installed the stem to the frame.

I have a had a time locating a bow eye that was long enough the reach through my stem. The stem is a 2×8 with two layers of 3/4" plywood lapped over the stem. This makes for an almost 9" thick stem. Standard bow eyes are 4" to 6 ". After searching the internet for months I finally ran across a bow eye from a company in Fort Wayne, but they only sold wholesale. I put in a PM to our fellow Lumberjock Bob Current. Bob was able to aquire the Bow eye and shipped it to me. Thanks Bob!!!










As you can see this is a long Bow Eye










The bow eye front plate was wider than the rounded front of the boat.










I marked the area that needed to be changed.










Here is the area after it was flattened and then Fiber-glassed with two layers of fiberglass.










After I got the Bow eye holes fixed correctly I was able to get the boat primed. I put on two coats of High Build Rustoleum Marine Fiberglass Primer. Then I sanded this down smooth to get the orange peel feel off that the roller left.










All of the dash and inside pilot house panels have been glassed, primed, and painted.




























This is after two coats of Rustoleum Marine Navy Blue Topside paint. This is the most forgiving paint I have ever used. You just roll it on. It self levels and dries to an almost buffed look. You can see yourself is the side of the boat.














































I am going to a family reunion this weekend, but next week I will need to add one more coat of paint and then I can start installing all of the devices that penetrate the hull. Cleats, Bilge pump discharges, Fuel fill fittings, fuel tank vent, and others. After all of these are in I can close up the deck sides and start installing the rigging, finish the wiring and get on the white oak trim.

Thanks for Looking!!


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


Wow, that is one nice boat. I can imagine there is a lot of hours in it. Looks like excellent work too.


----------



## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


Now that is one nice boat your building.
Would have loved one like it back when I was diving.
It would made one great dive boat.


----------



## scott0317 (Jun 1, 2014)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


amazing, simply amazing. can't imagine the time invested. I would love to see a video of the lauch party and any pictures up to that point. I will be watching this til completeion.


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


You are doing everything about as well as it could be done John. I wouldn't have glassed any interior areas but having done so can't hurt. You have put in a ton of work but when she "come to life" it will all be a memory and all that will remain will be your fine vessel and the knowledge that you built her with your own hands…..... there'so no better feeling.


----------



## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


The boat is looking good.


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,

Your thoroughness is simply amazing. To have a finish so glossy, it has to be perfect, and yours looks perfect! You're getting close now!

L/W


----------



## Daruc (Apr 20, 2015)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


The boat is absolutely amazing. 
You can see by the finish that excellent skilled craftsmanship has gone into it.
What I want to know is where you do the work? You must be taking it out, and doing it somewhere else because I didn't see a speck of sawdust on the floor in any of those pictures. 

Well done Sir.


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


Woodust,

I do work on it in that small space, the boat is on furniture dollies. I have to move it from side to side to work around it. As for the floor, it is covered with epoxy, fiberglass, and paint from this project. I do vacuum up the dust after each wood working task. I try to keep the dust out of the finishes. It will take a week after the boat moves out to clean up that space.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


ive been waiting for this, wow, this is fantastic, i was wanting the paint to be on…still much to do, but its coming down to the wire, great job…


----------



## Daruc (Apr 20, 2015)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...





> Woodust,
> 
> I do work on it in that small space, the boat is on furniture dollies. I have to move it from side to side to work around it. As for the floor, it is covered with epoxy, fiberglass, and paint from this project. I do vacuum up the dust after each wood working task. I try to keep the dust out of the finishes. It will take a week after the boat moves out to clean up that space.
> 
> - English


Yes I thought so. 
I'm not sure how it came across, but that *was* a compliment to your self discipline.
I admire and envy your organization to complete those tasks in such a small space.


----------



## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


John, 
Outstanding, your attention to detail is a solid 10. I'm most impressed in this chapter by your being able to Shanghai your wife to do fiberglass of all things. 
Add me to the list of those waiting to see the launching chapter. 
Bob


----------



## Anselth (Apr 19, 2012)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


John, very nice build. A boat is the top of my woodworking bucket list, so watching your build is hugely instructional. Thank you for sharing, and I hope you have many enjoyable hours in the water when it's finished!


----------



## exelectrician (Oct 3, 2011)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


Only someone who has been involved in the building of a boat knows how many hours it takes to get it done and into the water. I give you every encouragement to keep going you are almost there…....


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


hey john, if i remember your going to power this with a 75 horse, what type of engine is it, and do you have it ready, are there any pictures of the outboard yet…am i getting the horse before the cart….lol…this is so very exciting, i wish i could be there the day you launch it, just so i could see the smile on your face when you fire it up…now one more question, what is the name going to be, is it a her or him…or what…lol…


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


Bob,

I purchased a 70 hp Yamaha 4 stroke a few months ago while a big promotion was going on. I haven't picked it up yet. Once I get the boat onto the trailer I will take it to the Yamaha Dealer and he will install and test the motor and the wiring to the gauges.

As for the name, My brother was a US Navy Captain, He retired 10 years ago. Four years later he developed kidney cancer and passed away two years ago. He also was a big woodworker he had a 28×36 two story shop. I have inherited a lot of his tools. I always discussed my projects with him, he was my woodworking mentor. Every time I go out to my shop to work on my boat I feel his presence. He would have been so excited about this project. So I have named my boat " Big Brother" in his honor. I know that he will be with me every time I take it out.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

English said:


> *Finishing Topsides and Painting*
> 
> I have 558 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1421 lbs.
> 
> ...


john im so very sorry about your brothers passing, and i know after what you have said he is for sure watching over this build, how wonderful you inherited some of his tools, and the cherry on top is how you named the boat, that is going to be so befitting, how wonderful is that, a great honor to your big brother, thanks for sharing this with us, its an honor for us to see this build, the engine being placed and tested by the dealer is a big load off of you, them hooking up the contral panel, cant wait to see it in the water and then i hope some good pictures of Big Brother on step…


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

*Finished Painting and trimming out Boat*

I have 718 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1703 lbs.

Over the past Month I have finished painting the boat, Installed the rigging, Completed the wiring, installed the cleats, U-Bolts, Windows, seat boxes. The boat is very near completion, The first picture in this segment is where I am now.










The first task I had this month was to make a rub rail. The rub rail is fitted near the top of the Hull and is the point that "rubs" the dock or other boats and absorbs the blunt of any blows. It is designed to be replaced when worn.

For the rub rail I purchased Quartersawn White Oak. The boards were 10 feet long, My jointer is only a 4' bed machine. So to straight line these long boards I used a long straight edge and sawed it with my skill saw to get 2 long board half's with straight edges.



















I then routed scarf joints on three lengths of white oak then I glued up the scarf joints with PL Premium Adhesive. I used long construction levels and clamps to hold the boards straight as the scarf joints are clamped.



















While the rub rail is curing I started on the windshield by lining the plywood edge of the window holes with white oak, it is glued and nailed with Stainless steel nails.










I then started work on the seat boxes for the front seats, the port seat has a fuel tank installed under it. The boxes are made from 3/4" x 2 1/2" white oak. The joints are pocket hole and screws and glued with PL Premium.










The Rub rails were sized, and planed to 5/8" x 3". They were stained out in the yard by my wife and then she helped me install them on the boat. Because the wood is straight grained (quartersawn) they bent around the boat with ease.










I counter sunk the SS deck screws that hold the rails on and made white oak plugs to fill the holes. The rails are installed in a bed of Sikaflex 291 to seal the rails to the boat but will allow them to be removed down the road if they need replacing.










After the glue on the window hole liners cured I made frames for the Tempered glass. I then made templates from plywood and had glass cut and tempered for the windshield.










The tempered glass will take about two weeks to get made so I proceeded with making the material for the outer layer of the windshield frame and the side windows frames. These are 5/16" x 2 1/5" white oak strips. I re-sawed 3/4" oak and re-planed it to 5/16" . My wife stained all of these before use.










The side windows are Plexiglass because the window is located in a curved area of the boat. The window is bent around the curve. I used channel mate double track to hold the plexiglass. Then used 3/8" x 3/4" white oak and nailed with SS nails a 5/16" x 2 1/2" strip of white oak to it to make the window trim. I did this on both the outside and the inside.










After I got both side windows installed and trimmed I took all of the trim down and my wife stained and varnished with Sikkens Cetol Marine 2 coats followed by a finish coat of Sikkens Cetol Marine gloss.










Next I started making hand rails to go on top of the Pilot house and the cabin. These are needed to hold on to when walking around the gunwales to the fore deck. I laid out for two rails drilling four holes with a 3" hole saw.



















Then sawed them into two pieces.










Then at the band saw I removed the material between the holes and rounded the ends.










After routing the edges and sanding, I stained them and my wife is going to varnish them.










Here I have installed the deck sides, these are Fiberglassed and painted . These will help keep water out of the bilge and on the deck.










The fuel tank meets the new EPA guidelines for a boat made after 2012, The tank has a fill limit valve that shuts off the vent when the tank is full. This will cause the fill to back up shutting off the gas station pump. There is also a carbon filter for the vent and a check valve in the fill line.



















Seat box frame is made for the drivers seat.










The remote control throttle and shifter is installed with the cables run to the motor in a 2" conduit.










I installed another 1/2" conduit from the transom to the dash to install a depth gauge after the boat is on the trailer. The transducer may get broken if installed now while we are putting the boat on the trailer.










Two 100lb SS drawer slide are installed to hold the batteries and make servicing the batteries easier.










The stained and varnished trim is re-installed on the side windows. And the hand rails are installed on the pilot house roof.










A good bedding of Sikaflex 291 is used to seal the trim to the wall panels.



















The ceiling in the pilot house is re-install after 5 coats of varnish.










The windshield white oak hole lining has been sealed with quick fair and painted with marine paint.










Lights have been added to the pilot house ceiling and all of the dash wiring is complete and the motor rigging is in place.



















The windshield glass is installed in the frames and the window trim is added using simple butt joints. The two side windshield windows are fixed so that they open to allow the breeze in while piloting the boat to help beat the heat. These windows will be removed, varnished and re-installed.










The next 4 pictures show where I am right now.





































The work remaining is trim around the open deck, Plywood covers for the seat boxes and 7 cabinet style doors. Installing the seats and painting the deck. These should be done in a few weeks. So I hope my next blog entry will include a launching.

Thanks for Looking !!


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Finished Painting and trimming out Boat*
> 
> I have 718 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1703 lbs.
> 
> ...


Lots of good work here John.
It will all be worth it when you start getting out in her.
I was out sailing Friendship today and had a great time in the sun and the breeze.

....great looking little boat!


----------



## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Finished Painting and trimming out Boat*
> 
> I have 718 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1703 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,
Your patience and continued attention to the smallest of details are admirable. The oak bright work really pops. 
Thanks for posting I look forward to the next chapter. 
Bob


----------



## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

English said:


> *Finished Painting and trimming out Boat*
> 
> I have 718 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1703 lbs.
> 
> ...


This has really been interesting. I have enjoyed following you just waiting for the launch.


----------



## sras (Oct 31, 2009)

English said:


> *Finished Painting and trimming out Boat*
> 
> I have 718 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1703 lbs.
> 
> ...


I have really enjoyed watching your adventure - looking forward to the launch report!


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

English said:


> *Finished Painting and trimming out Boat*
> 
> I have 718 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1703 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,

Your journey has been so informative! It's wonderful that you are so close to launching your boat and that your wife has taken part in this journey with you.

L/W


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

English said:


> *Finished Painting and trimming out Boat*
> 
> I have 718 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1703 lbs.
> 
> ...


Wonderful blog and the build is so well done. You have a great boat there with a lot of thoughtful features. It looks like it won't be long before you can stop enjoying the build and start enjoying the sailing. I hope you will be posting it as a project when finished and it would be nice to see the launch too.


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

English said:


> *Finished Painting and trimming out Boat*
> 
> I have 718 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1703 lbs.
> 
> ...


WoW. I have enjoyed following along with this build. But I gotta ask ….

Are you SURE this thing is gonna fit under the door frame to get it out of the garage??? It looks awfully close


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Finished Painting and trimming out Boat*
> 
> I have 718 hours in this build and the boat weighs 1703 lbs.
> 
> ...


Ya Joe, The boats at around 7' 5" off the shop floor right now. The door is 8'6" made for my high top van. But thanks for asking.


----------



## English (May 10, 2014)

*Finished trim and fit and launched.*

I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.










But to not get to far ahead of the story, Since my last entry, I have trimmed the boat in White Oak stained to red mahogany, and finished with three coats of Sikkens Cetol Marine varnish. I made shaker style doors for the battery locker, the entrance to the cabin and a storage area under one of the seats. I made two foot rest for the front seats, made and painted seat box covers for the front seats. Installed 6 boat seats, and made a small seat beside the splash well out of some wasted space. Installed two oval shaped port hole windows.


















































































After finishing the boat I then had to get it on the trailer, After consulting with Bob Current about the rigging for the move of the boat I built a cradle to support the front of the boat. Then with the help of several of my neighbors we move the boat outside with ease.




























We only moved the boat out until the pilot house cleared the shop roof overhang. Then I started jacking the boat. I used 4×4 lumber for cribbing and raised the boat 25".





































After the boat was up to 25" I moved the trailer into position, hooked the trailer winch to the boat. Installed two jacks to support the back of the trailer and winched the boat onto the trailer.























































I then took the boat to the dealer and had the Yamaha 70 hp motor installed. The dealer and I took the boat to the water and tested the engine. It reached 29 MPH at 6200 RPMs and fuel usage was 5.5 MPG. at 4000 RPM we moved 12 MPH with 7.2 MPG.


















































































Here are some pictures of the finished interior spaces.



















Electric Control panel.










Port Holes.










Cabin hatch from inside cabin.










Port Seat and dash.










Pilot Seat starboard side.










Storage Space under seat.










Battery Compartment.




























Out on the Lake Enjoying My new Boat…










This has been the hardest wood working project I have ever done and the most rewarding. I learned a lot about boats and boating that I never even imagined before. The finished product is a great boat that I will enjoy for many years.

Thanks all for your support and encouragement during this journey and

Thanks for Looking!!


----------



## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Amazing….have fun with it


----------



## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Great work John. 
You have every right to be very proud of her. She's a real sweetie.
Thanks for the blog, it's been fun.


----------



## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Great looking boat. Thanks for the blog


----------



## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Excellent outcome ! Best wishes for smooth waters !


----------



## dustyoldman (Dec 28, 2014)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


It looks great I know you will enjoy it probably in more ways than one . Smooth sailing


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,

This has been so enjoyable. We're happy for you to finally be able to luxuriate in your new vessel, but a bit sad that our vicarious journey is now over.

L/W


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,

This has been so enjoyable. We're happy for you to finally be able to luxuriate in your new vessel, but a bit sad that our vicarious journey is now over.

L/W


----------



## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,

This turned out to be a triple post! Dial-up certainly is a frustration.
. . . but the boat is so great that it's worth a triple-post!

L/W


----------



## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Glorious end to your blog John. Your boat is marvelous and a great achievement for a single woodworker who hadn't built a boat before. Your fine workmanship shows up in spades. Have fun and reap the rewards of your hard work. Thanks for taking us along on this interesting journey.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


thanks for the blog, john. You are a very good engineer! Well done, mate!

Cheers, Jim


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## HerbC (Jul 28, 2010)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Great blog.

Great project.

Great boat.

Hope you have fair seas and following seas.

Good Luck!

Be Careful!

Herb


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## TimR7 (May 6, 2015)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Tremendous work!!! the boat is beautiful! i have thoroughly enjoyed reading about your journey. Thank you!


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


i fell the same as others here, so happy for you and your beautiful BIG BROTHER, a wonderful tribute to your brother, i know you will enjoy many hours our on the water, you have built a masterful project and did so well, congrats on a beautiful boat.


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## jumbojack (Mar 20, 2011)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Thanks for taking us along. Beautiful craft.
May the wind be always at your back, and the sun shine warm upon your face.


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## Mean_Dean (Oct 13, 2009)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


I missed the blog, and am happy to have stumbled across the finished product! You built yourself a fine looking vessel, and I hope it provides you many hours of happy cruising!


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## jim65 (Feb 8, 2013)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Great Boat and a wonderful blog John, you can be very proud of her, the lines are sweet and fair and she looks really good, enjoy her! thanks for sharing your journey, its been enjoyable.


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## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


John,
A+ on all parts from blog to the launching with emphasis on the story of the name. I'm sure your brother was looking over your shoulder with a smile. 
I hope you take some time to wind down and enjoy the fruits of your labor and all the shop space you have returned to use. 
That boat sure beats a Banbury shut down on hot summer day. 
Bob


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## DustyMark (Sep 24, 2012)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Awesome work…what a joy to get it out on the water!


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## Fired_Yo_Momma (Jul 14, 2014)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Wow just saw your boat… very inspiring. I want to build a canoe


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## hezekla (Dec 22, 2015)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Would you be interested in selling this boat?


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## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Hezekla,

No I don' t plan to sell it until I get where I can' t handle it anymore ( you known old age). But thanks for the compliment.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


Wow what an undertaking. You built yourself a beautiful boat! Whadija' name 'er?


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## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Finished trim and fit and launched.*
> 
> I have finished the boat!! It was launched this week. The boat did well on it's sea trails, floated well and did not take on any water. I have 814 Hours in the build and the boat weighs 1749 lbs.
> 
> ...


" Big Brother" after my late brother who captained two U S Navy Submarines.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

*Perfomance Update.*










I wanted to update my blog to let folks know that I had performance issues with my flat bottom designed boat. I believe I caused the issue by adding so much weight forward in the cabin and pilot house. The boat had a real control issue. It would not steer well at low speeds. The boat would just seem to slide sideways instead of turning. In reverse there was no control at all. The front of the boat would fish tail back and forth banging the dock on the way out of the ramp.

I contacted the hull designer, Jeff Spira of Spira International Inc., and discussed the issue with him. He recommended that I add a strake down the center on the hull bottom. He suggested a 1×4 - 6 feet long mounted on it's edge, starting at the transom running forward 6 feet. After discussions with him on how to mount the strake (I call it a Keel) we decided on a 2×4 - 6 feet long on it's edge, and due to possible cavitation with the motor it was moved forward starting 3 feet from the transom.

I discussed how to mount the piece with Jeff and with several other folks. I was first looking at a piece of white oak for the job, planning on epoxying it to the bottom and fiber-glassing it for durability. Jeff told me he would not epoxy or Fiberglass the piece. He said that I would be changing it from time to time due to wear.

It was recommended by the Dealer at my local Yamaha store that I use a structural plastic 2×4 for this job. I found one available locally, I purchased it and made my "keel". The front is rounded and the aft end is tapered back to 1".










I then installed it to the bottom of the boat using Stainless steel #14×5" structural screws that I ordered online. I put a screw every 8" down the length of the Keel, sealed it to the bottom with 3M 5200 adhesive sealant.




























I took the boat out today and it performed great. Backing out of the ramp was perfectly straight. Turning at slow speed works great now and turning at higher speed is much improved. The difference is like night and day. I actually felt like I was in control of the boat today.

Here is a video of the performance testing. The boat is riding a little high and I plan to work on that. If I get it fixed I will update the blog. 




I did go back and look into the reason for the high bow on plane, and decided that I needed trim tabs to bring the bow down, I decided to give the Nauticus Smart tabs a try. If they work I would not need any more controls.





































They worked better than I had expected. They not only brought the bow down but they shortened hole shot and let you handle wakes much better.

Thanks for looking!!


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## htl (Mar 24, 2015)

English said:


> *Perfomance Update.*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Cool project!!!
Your boat just needed pointed in the right direction. LOL


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

English said:


> *Perfomance Update.*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


well im glad you found the solution to the problem, always something to learn, and now you have a great running boat….enjoy the days of boating ahead…john, i want to ask if you can talk on the Physics of this and how it now changes the dynamics of the water flow.


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Perfomance Update.*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Great news John. You deserve a great boat and now it seems like that's what you have.
Well done, now get out there and enjoy!


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## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Perfomance Update.*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Bob, here is the best explanation I could find to explain how the keel works. The following is a quote from another source.

" A large part of the resistance of a keel is created by the vortices, similar to miniature whirlpools that form when the water flows across the bottom of the keel from the high-pressure (leeward) side to the low-pressure (windward) side. It requires energy to form those vortices and that energy is then not available to propel the boat forward. Obviously, the shorter the keel or fin tip, the smaller and weaker those vortices will be, and that translates to reduced resistance. "

You see these vortices forming behind a paddle as you pull it through the water and the water rushes to fill in behind the paddle.


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## lightweightladylefty (Mar 27, 2008)

English said:


> *Perfomance Update.*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


John,

As I started to read your post, my heart just sank. (At least it wasn't your boat that sank.) But what a nice solution and we're so happy that you got it worked out successfully. Thanks for sharing your experience and insight with us.

L/W


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## farmerdude (Oct 25, 2012)

English said:


> *Perfomance Update.*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well English, I finally put two and two together. I know you have left comments on my canoe blog and added a few tips. I got thinking about that today and looked at your home page and found your blog. I've spent quite a while this afternoon reading the whole blog from the start. It is an interesting read. Now I know where your knowledge came from. You have paid your dues for sure. I guess the canoe doesn't seem like that big of a build compared to your boat. You put an amazing amount of work into that project and have a fantastic looking boat to show for it. When I did my first canoe, I too learned the hard way not to mix up the resin and hardener jugs. It wasn't anywhere near as big an area as you had, but it taught me to pay attention. I really enjoyed watching the boat take shape. Shipwright was right when he said watching a build was almost as exciting as building one yourself. You did a fantastic job of taking pictures and writing enough information to keep me interested. I don't care for a blog that only has a few pictures and no information to explain what I'm seeing. It may be foolish, but I am curious about one thing. There is a piece that I believe you called the splash guard for the motor, when you filled the screw holes, the material you used is a lot darker than the filler you used on the rest of the boat. Did you use a different wood flour, or some other thickener? Not a big deal, it just caught my eye. Anyway, you made one heck of a beautiful boat. I enjoyed your blog, and thank you for an afternoon of enjoyable reading.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

English said:


> *Perfomance Update.*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Jeff,

I have thoroughly enjoyed reading your blog. I hope to build a cedar strip canoe this summer for my grandson. So I have been watching your build very closely. As for the Dark Filler on the splash well, you have a good eye. I used Douglas fir flour on the hull and topsides but used pecan flour on the splash well. I ran out of DF and had a quart of pecan I had bought to get an idea of the texture of the "wood flour" needed for filler.

Thanks for the nice comments. and I will keep watching your build with great interest.


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## English (May 10, 2014)

*Crack in Fiberglass on Transom*

Over the summer last year I noticed a crack developing beside my outboard on the transom.










The crack is where a butt splice was on the transom when I originally built the boat. I had built the transom for a 20" motor and when I received the motor it needed 21 3/4" to get the cavitation plate even with the bottom of the hull.


















I considered several options for the repair. I considered removing the plywood off the entire transom, removing the 2×4 and the 2×8 and replacing them with a 2×12, installing new plywood, glass and repainting. I considered just adding a ½" marine plywood layer over the transom, glass, and repainting. I considered milling out the original patch and replacing it with a new patch that covers 3 more inches of the 2×8, re-glass, repaint. Not wanting to do this repair but once. I contacted fellow Lumberjock Shipwright. Paul thought the options I was considering, though effective, were a bit extreme. He recommended a very simple repair, to sand off the area around the problem and re-glass with a couple of layers of bi-axial or if I could find it tri-axial cloth. Make the patch a good six inches or more past the motor contact areas in all directions and make sure it more than covers the crack. Run a router down the crack at 5/8" depth to get to clean, dry wood and epoxy a spline in first just to seal the crack. So this was the method I chose to follow.

Here I have removed the motor, and sanded down to the epoxy.










There are 4 drain tubes in the area to be covered with Tri-axial fiberglass, so they will have to be replaced.










The crack can be seen here in the fiberglass.










I routed out the crack with a 1/2" router bit 5/8" deep which is the thickness of the marine plywood on the transom.










I installed 2 layers of 23 oz. Tri-axial fiberglass, this is the first layer.










After the first layer was wet out with epoxy, I put on the second layer overlapping the first into the wet epoxy.










Then after 5 or 6 coats of epoxy to fill the weave I finally got the repair area smooth.










Next I have to replace the drain tubes. The original ones were brass with flared ends. I never had a good feeling about the flared ends on the brass tubes, so this time I went back with PVC. Paul had recommended Using ABS pipe and sanding the outside with 80 grit. ABS is not available down here in the south smaller than 2" So after finding information on a West Systems web page on how to install PVC with epoxy I went with 1" sch 40 PVC, I first filled the old holes after the brass was removed with thickened epoxy. Then I drilled a 1 3/8" hole for the tube, but before the hole saw came out the far side I changed over to a 1 1/2" hole saw and drilled in 1/4" from each side. The 1 3/8" hole keeps the pipe in the center of the 1 1/2" opening to allow epoxy to get in all the way around the pipe to insure a positive seal. Here is my test hole in a 2×4 .










All of the tubes were installed using this method.










Then the boat was taped off and the three different paints were used to repaint the transom and the splash well.










At this point I just need to reinstall my motor, swim platform, depth transducer, and Smart Tabs. Then the boat will be ready for the water. I plan to let the paint cure for a few days before I re-install the motor.
I plan to install vibration isolation pads between the motor and the transom when I re-install the motor.

A big thanks to Paul (shipwright), thanks for saving me a lot of work and for teaching me new methods.

That's what is so great about Lumberjocks, So much talent and so many people who want to share the knowledge.

Thanks for Looking!!


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## shipwright (Sep 27, 2010)

English said:


> *Crack in Fiberglass on Transom*
> 
> Over the summer last year I noticed a crack developing beside my outboard on the transom.
> 
> ...


You're welcome John. I hope it works out well for you. It should be a very strong repair.


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## changeoffocus (Dec 21, 2013)

English said:


> *Crack in Fiberglass on Transom*
> 
> Over the summer last year I noticed a crack developing beside my outboard on the transom.
> 
> ...


John,
As usual you have provided an interesting new chapter of your work on "Big Brother". 
Sorry that it required a repair to provide us with a great read and testimonial to Paul's generous sharing of his experience. 
Enjoy the summer. 
Bob


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