# New to wood working, 3/4 plywood aquarium stand



## FuNnY718 (Dec 18, 2016)

Hey folks happy holidays, I'm new to wood working and would like to try my hand at a diy plywood stand as I don't think for a 60g 48×24" I would need to over kill and have 2×4. Questions I have do I need a front center support, do I just butt joint the stand. I would like to get away with pocket hole screws cause I'm new. If any one can recommend any books DVDs or has a sketchup file of how the framing should be that would be great thnx a ton.


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## jerryminer (Jun 15, 2014)

Water weighs 8 lbs. per gallon, so a 60 gal tank will weigh 480 lbs. in just water, plus the tank itself. You don't want to "under-build."

3/4 ply can do it, but you'll have to design it well. Have you got a sketch or anything? (even a rough sketch on paper, scanned and uploaded would help us help you.)


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## mrbob (Nov 3, 2016)

I had a 48×24x24, 120 gal on a stand I made out of 3/4" red oak, standard cabinet construction. I had 250lb live rock in it also.
I had no problems with it.


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

OK, I could Google it, but perhaps I could get mrbob to enlighten me. What the heck is a 250lb "live rock"? All the rocks around here have long since passed away.

Eager to learn something new today!


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## FuNnY718 (Dec 18, 2016)

> OK, I could Google it, but perhaps I could get mrbob to enlighten me. What the heck is a 250lb "live rock"? All the rocks around here have long since passed away.
> 
> Eager to learn something new today!
> 
> - Kazooman


lol thank you. here is a quick run down of live rock

Live rock becomes the main biological nitrification base or biological filter of a saltwater aquarium, while at the same time enhances the look of the aquarium and provides shelter for the inhabitants.


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## FuNnY718 (Dec 18, 2016)

> I had a 48×24x24, 120 gal on a stand I made out of 3/4" red oak, standard cabinet construction. I had 250lb live rock in it also.
> I had no problems with it.
> 
> - mrbob


can you point me in the right direction of standard cabinet construction references?


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## FuNnY718 (Dec 18, 2016)

> Water weighs 8 lbs. per gallon, so a 60 gal tank will weigh 480 lbs. in just water, plus the tank itself. You don t want to "under-build."
> 
> 3/4 ply can do it, but you ll have to design it well. Have you got a sketch or anything? (even a rough sketch on paper, scanned and uploaded would help us help you.)
> 
> - jerryminer


thank you.


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## Clk51212 (Oct 31, 2016)

Live rock is used in saltwater set ups. I have built over 15 stands from 55 to 180 gallon. The 180 had over 150lbs of sand and 200 lbs rock with a 50 gal sump filter below it. Always built mine with 2×6 top fails for 6ft long tanks and 2×4 bottom rail with 2×6 legs on four corners. Then skinned them with 1/2 ply or tongue and grove pine depending on the look you like. Make sure you joint and square the tops and bottoms for the rail they need to be perfectly flat


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## FuNnY718 (Dec 18, 2016)

> Live rock is used in saltwater set ups. I have built over 15 stands from 55 to 180 gallon. The 180 had over 150lbs of sand and 200 lbs rock with a 50 gal sump filter below it. Always built mine with 2×6 top fails for 6ft long tanks and 2×4 bottom rail with 2×6 legs on four corners. Then skinned them with 1/2 ply or tongue and grove pine depending on the look you like. Make sure you joint and square the tops and bottoms for the rail they need to be perfectly flat
> 
> - Clk51212


thnx bud im trying to give it a go with just plywood. but thank you again for the reply.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Built one for my son a few years ago… believe it was a 150 gallon or so (it was big!). Used regular 2x stuff for a box frame and skinned with T1-11 ply. Pretty much what Clk describes above.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Clk51212 (Oct 31, 2016)

Pocket screws wood been fine for the legs. You can do a but joiint on the rails if you use 2×6 top rail you wouldn't need a center support


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## FuNnY718 (Dec 18, 2016)

> Built one for my son a few years ago… believe it was a 150 gallon or so (it was big!). Used regular 2x stuff for a box frame and skinned with T1-11 ply. Pretty much what Clk describes above. I
> 
> Cheers,
> Brad
> ...


thank you brad for the info really appreciate it.


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

I admit, I had to Google live rock. I knew it was used in salt water aquaria, but didn't know the term.

As far as the "just plywood" build. I am not certain what you mean here. You will need a sturdy frame to support the weight. You could make components for the frame by laminating pieces of plywood, but that would be a real bother.

Your original post was asking for design help. I think you just got it from several posters who have made similar stands. Maybe time to heed their advice.


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## FuNnY718 (Dec 18, 2016)

> I admit, I had to Google live rock. I knew it was used in salt water aquaria, but didn t know the term.
> 
> As far as the "just plywood" build. I am not certain what you mean here. You will need a sturdy frame to support the weight. You could make components for the frame by laminating pieces of plywood, but that would be a real bother.
> 
> ...


what im trying to do is something like this this http://s938.photobucket.com/user/james1307oak/media/150%20Gal%20Oak%20Stand/photobucket-2047-1344183967108.jpg.html

i believe it was a lumberjocker poster by the name of dahenley.

this is the thred his post #11 http://lumberjocks.com/topics/57365


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## plywoodman (Dec 2, 2016)

Kazoo man is correct. If you're building with plywood, you need something to secure the plywood to something besides itself. At the very least, you'll need corner supports, top and bottom. Corner supports that run top TO bottom would be best. If you want the bottom of the aquarium to be hidden, cut or locate the corner supports shorter or lower ( respectively ) by the amount you want hidden. And, corner supports can be installed using pocket hole technology.


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## Kazooman (Jan 20, 2013)

The pictures you posted look like a pretty good framing design, but I would still be worried about the ability of the vertical support members to bear the load without bending. This is 500 pounds of water plus a lot of weight in "live rock" (I just learned that term, and I am proud to use it). Do not skimp on the verticals in the corners. If you choose to go without any vertical support in the center then you need an appropriate beam across the length of the stand to transfer the load to the end supports. There is no easier way around the problem. You have a lot of weight to support. If you are going to do it in wood then the pieces need to be sized to handle the load. You could go with a metal frame if making it "disappear" is an issue. Think carefully about it. Just how much sag do you need over the 48" length of the aquarium to open up a seam to create a leak? I would guess that the investment in the tank, peripherals, and the fish is huge compared to the minuscule cost for wood to make the base properly.

Please post a picture of your (hopefully) beefy tank support with several multicolored fish enjoying the environment.


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## corelz125 (Sep 23, 2015)

I made a stand for a 40 gal tank and used 2×4s for the framing. I was concerned about the weight. I would go with clk advice since he has done a bunch and for large tanks


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## FuNnY718 (Dec 18, 2016)

hey guys thanx for the advice but mrbob and the other post i was referring to say 3/4 should be enough, and if u think about it, have you ever seen petco or any lfs stand its made of 3/4 particle board with no 2x, i just want a clean look ill report back with any new findings thanx again but i think 2x is over built.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Let us know when some one bumps it and it falls apart.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

I think that is a good basic design for a face frame . I can see the vertical members bowing with weight and I would worry about racking. You need a cabinet to attach the face frame to and that will support the load and also control the racking. The pictures you posted have no way to stop racking.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

I would double up on the plywood for the front and rear members. You will need reinforcing at the legs in order to distribute the load evenly. Assuming the finished aquarium weighs 600# (including tank, water, gravel, light hood, filter and the stand itself), you will have 600÷4 or 150# per leg bearing in the floor. Ideally, you would want the legs to sit over a floor joist, so spreading the load as much as possible is important. I have built a stand for a 500 gal salt water aquarium and carefully positioned it for maximum floor support. In this case, I surrounded the base of the aquarium with a "cabinet" style structure. It transfers the load effectively to the floor joists. In fact I had to crawl under the house to double up on 2 of the joists. The cabinet has doors in front to house filters, etc.
Plywood will work fine, but don't just use the cheapest plywood. Use a 3/4" plywood with 9 plys. Baltic Birch would be good.


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## TravisH (Feb 6, 2013)

3/4 ply is fine for your application if built properly. I just got rid of a 3/4 ply stand and 100 gallon tank that has been in use for over 30 years. Most overbuild (including myself) tank stands out of what ifs. Most commercial stands are particle board junk but yet last for years never failing even with water intrusion. Amazing the stuff you see if you have spent any time in the hobby.

GARF plans probably the most followed stand build plans for DIY people with out much skill set.

http://www.garf.org/tank/buildstand.asp

Most like using 4×4 and 2×4 material and skin as ends up being cheap and not looking for "furniture" but utilitarian pieces. I usually skin with ply (1/4). Definitely far from fine furniture.

Wood has been losing popularity with the trends of nano reef tanks and planted tanks. The sleek elegant/clean look with recessed doors, drawers, has been more poplar. Formica and other laminates are used to skin everything.


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## FuNnY718 (Dec 18, 2016)

thanx everyone for the input ill let you know how it goes 3/4 plywood with no 2x stay tuned.


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## ClammyBallz (Apr 16, 2015)

I build all my stands with 3/4" plywood. Manufactured stands are made of either pine or particle board core plywood and pocket screws and they hold tanks just fine.

Build the case with a vertical brace in the center on the back. On a 48" stand, you do not need a vertical brace for the front. Instead, add a backer piece to the top of the face frame for support and double the thickness at the top Attach a piece of plywood on the top (cut out your overflow opening first), this will increase support and allow the tank to sit level.

I will get you some pictures when I get back to the shop.


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## FuNnY718 (Dec 18, 2016)

> I build all my stands with 3/4" plywood. Manufactured stands are made of either pine or particle board core plywood and pocket screws and they hold tanks just fine.
> 
> Build the case with a vertical brace in the center on the back. On a 48" stand, you do not need a vertical brace for the front. Instead, add a backer piece to the top of the face frame for support and double the thickness at the top Attach a piece of plywood on the top (cut out your overflow opening first), this will increase support and allow the tank to sit level.
> 
> ...


thanx clammyballz do you have any drawing or images of what your describing ?
thank you


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## corelz125 (Sep 23, 2015)

I'm curious why you are so set on using only plywood?


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## FuNnY718 (Dec 18, 2016)

> I m curious why you are so set on using only plywood?
> 
> - corelz125


clean look and why waste on wood that is not needed? tying to be environmentally friendly.

thanx


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## DustyM (May 16, 2016)

What Clammy said re the top. Also, may want to place a thin piece of foam under the tank to help even out pressure. Check this link:

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqstandfaqs.htm

Despite no longer keeping an aquarium, I read their site regularly. It's full of useful information.


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## ClammyBallz (Apr 16, 2015)

Here's some pictures of what I'm referring to.

Front









Back









Reinforcement on the front face.


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## ClammyBallz (Apr 16, 2015)

> Also, may want to place a thin piece of foam under the tank to help even out pressure. Check this


If it is a frameless aquarium, then foam is required. However, if it is a plastic frame bottom, you do not want to put foam under it, it will void the warranty. The frame supports the aquarium and distributes the weight.


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## FuNnY718 (Dec 18, 2016)

> Here s some pictures of what I m referring to.
> 
> Front
> 
> ...





> Here s some pictures of what I m referring to.
> 
> Front
> 
> ...


Thanx clammy your the best.


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## TravisH (Feb 6, 2013)

Are you going for an ADA style stand?


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

Don't over think it and try to build a bridge. You just need a standard cabinet. I did beef up the one I built by running 2×2s inside the corners all the way to the floor. I could have parked my truck on that stand.


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## ClammyBallz (Apr 16, 2015)

If you build it solid, there's no need for reinforcements. Reefers need as much space as possible in the stand to fit all the filtration. There's never enough room in the stand!


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

The 2×2s took up a negligible amount of space and added considerable strength. You're right, they probably weren't necessary but since I was building it for someone else…


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