# Show the restoration before and after.



## donwilwol

I thought it would be cool to have a place for a collection of before and after shots. Rules are simple, you must have done the work, and there must be a before and after shot. Any tool restoration welcome. Hopefully you will post often.

I'll start wit my latest.

Blog is here

Sargent 5206

















Ohio Tools #7
First metal from the right

















And the Stanley #S4, second from the left.


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## a1Jim

Wow what a difference ,nice work.


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## CharlesAuguste

As always Don your restoration are pristine!! well done!


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## ShaneA

Great job and idea Don, I think there should be a dedicated spot to have tool rehabs. Power or hand, I enjoy looking at them and seeing all the possibilities. I know others do as well. The S4 is just awesome. A real looker!


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## ksSlim

As I posted earlier, you've raised the bar yet again. What a great idea of before and after restorations.
I follow the "saw" and "plane" forums, but some LJs restore other tools. We could be considered Tool Conservators.
That'd be TCs for short. Thanks for the motivatioin to learn how to post photos.


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## superdav721

Great Idea Don. I have to get a project or two out of the way But I have a pile that needs attention. Here are a couple I have done in the last few months.


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## dakremer

Not done yet….but here is my work in progress of a Hand Brace….


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## cjwillie

Here's a couple of my 1956 Delta bandsaw. (tried to get the "before" picture to show first, that didn't work out!)


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## lysdexic

Dave, did you re-plate that 71?


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## superdav721

I shot it with a can of silver paint. So much of the plating was gone. I cleaned it thoroughly and wiped it down with acetone. It was so bad I painted the base as well then after it dried I removed that with 600 grit. It was an eBay find for $19.00. I did a blog, there are a few more pictures.
Dak that brace is very nice.


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## AnthonyReed

Great idea Don. Fine work as always.

Wonderful restorations guys.


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## Dcase

Stanley #22 wood bottom plane






















































This is one of my favorite restorations that I have done. I don't think many guys would have even tried to save this one and thats why I did it. I wanted the challenge of somehow bringing this one back to life. The iron took the most time as the back had very heavy pitting. I spent a few hours lapping the back to a fine polish.


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## Bertha

Watched for life! I've always wanted someone to start a thread like this. I'm glad the King of restores started it. I'm in my comfortable chair, ready for the gloat.


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## BrandonW

Nice one, Dan. You really exceeded on that iron!

In the spirit of transitional smoothers, here's my Stanley 35 restore:


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## BrandonW

Bertha, I love that 45, did you do anything to the finish in terms of paint or chrome?


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## Bertha

Thanks Brandon! I just sequentially buffed, polished, and waxed it. Rejointed the fence. That's it. It's been many years now and not a speck of rust (knock on wood). That was in my "gunmetal" phase, lol. I used to bring everything down to the bare metal and leave it.


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## DocBailey

Unfortunately, the vast majority of the literally hundreds of restos I've done are undocumented. But I did find this one. The amazing thing was how much original paint was hiding under that rust. The electrolysis even freed up the frozen threaded left hand wheel. (that's all it's original paint by the way)


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## bandit571

OK, here is one of my little projects









Before ( after spending a whopping $25 to get it home)









and Mister bailey, afterwards. Another little project just completed:









Rust Hunter:









After: Handyman #4 (@ $8)


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## Dcase

Here is my #7 that I restored over a year ago…


















I left the tote alone for a while but I did end up replacing.


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## BrandonW

I can't believe you replaced the knob, Dan! ;-)


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## donwilwol

Stanley #30 Transitional


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## Dcase

Brandon, I still have the knob that was on the plane, if you want I can send it to you free of charge. Maybe you will want to throw it on one of your nice planes. 

Don- What kind of finish did you use on that #30? That base turned out pretty dark, you didn't stain it did you?


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## BrandonW

haha, Dan, you called my bluff.


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## Bertha

DocBailey, I don't know what it is, but I want one! Some kind of a miter frame machine? I'm also shocked at how much paint was under the crud. Really came out nice. That transitional's gleaming, Don. My guess it that it's just BLO. Either that or beeswax/turpentine. We'll see if I'm right, Dan.


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## donwilwol

Al, you're the lucky winner. Since Brandon don't want it you get Dan's #7 knob. (wrote that without the #7 first, it just didn't sound right)

Dan, its Just BLO. I'm not sure why its so dark, It almost looks like it was around a lot of oil in a previous life.


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## DocBailey

Al - you sound just like me
When it comes to hand tools, if I don't have one, I want one!
That is a Stanley 100 Mitre machine. It was made for years by Marsh, before they were bought up by Stanley.
I've included a page from a 1953 Stanley catalog - though mine (judging from the paint) is from the 1960s.
Though the description fails to mention it, the table swivels in the horizontal and vertical axis and can be locked, so that the joint can be fastened after cutting. It's really a one-trick-pony; a mitre box that can cut only 45 degree miters. BTW- I also have the proper saw.


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## Bertha

Ahhhh!!!! Now I REALLY want one I was confused by the "post" but I get it now. That's one really nice machine.


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## donwilwol

Stanley #40


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## lysdexic

Don, is that a 40 or 40 1/2. I can't tell by just looking at them.


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## TajBuilder

This is a 1955 Powermatic 90 I recently restored. It is #68 ever built.









.


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## ShaneA

Great work guys. That Powermatic is simply beautiful. Well done.


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## superdav721

That lathe looks like a hot rod.


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## BTKS

That powermatic almost made my eyes pop out of their sockets. Great job!!


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## bandit571

Not quite done, but we are getting there category:









10" "miter saw" ($1.21) and about halfway through the restoration









Give me another week, or so, and we'll be done.


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## Dcase

Disston D8













































I spent a good amount of time on the handle. I sanded it all by hand and finished with a mix of BLO and Bullseye Shellac w/Amber tint.


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## donwilwol

Dan, I love that D8 with the thumb hole. I have started going through saw piles in antiques stores to find one.

Here is my D8.


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## BrandonW

Dan that D8 is always a pleasure to see! Such a beautiful saw!


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## BrandonW

Nice on too, Don. Just curious if anyone uses an ROS on their saw plates to clean them up? I've done it to one saw and it worked pretty well with a medium to high grit. I didn't even destroy the etching!


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## lysdexic

Dan, I can't quite put my finger on it, but there is something about the D-8 handle. Beautiful.


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## donwilwol

I use the ROS once in a while on saw plates. I've got grit up to 320.


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## Dcase

Here is a small square I restored. I had a lot of fun doing this one.


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## Dcase

Thanks guys. I really spent a lot of time on that handle so its rewarding to get complements on it.

I have used my ROS on a saw plate before and it does work but I think a sanding block with low grit paper works just as fast. The problem I had with the ROS was it made a mess by filling the air with rust and metal dust. I usually just take a block of wood and attach some 120 grit paper and sand it by hand. It usually does not take all that long to get the rust off.


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## bandit571

Just a "Before" photo for right now…









Something missing here? Need to find out how much I have to add on. All the sawnuts can be removed. The one holding the Medallion just sits &spins, will NOT loosen up. I'll soak it awhile and try later…


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## superdav721

The blog is here.


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## JAAune

I've done a lot of this sort of work but unfortunately I was always in too big a hurry to get started to spend time getting before pictures.


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## donwilwol

Millers falls #18


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## SamuelP

Don W - What finish do you use on the totes and knobs?


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## donwilwol

Sam, I think the MF's might be shellac. (I'm pretty sure)


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## CharlesAuguste

Here a different kind of restoration fot you guys, its a tool. Its a Boker 386 it doesnt shave wood,
but it will shave your face to perfection!!


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## Bertha

Whoa! That Boker is really nice. I think my favorite iron, W. Butcher, used to be famous for straight razors, as well.


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## CharlesAuguste

Yes Wade & Butcher are realy nice as well, i got 3 of them in different sizes!!


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## Bertha

^you're an animal, Charles. I'd love to see a pic of those Butchers!


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## CharlesAuguste

Ok no problem!! Here on with new ebony scales.


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## CharlesAuguste

There another sweet one with original horn scales, actually got two more in the shop awaiting scales and honing!!


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## Bertha

Whoooooaaaaaa! That horn scaled one is out of control. Look at the beef on that iron!








I've got some that need work, too


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## CharlesAuguste

Sweet looking chisel !!!


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## donwilwol

This is the before. Its still in rehab. I'm inserting it now because of the marking on the blade.

Baldwin Tool Co.
Made from 
Butchers
Cast Steel
Warranted










Is it the same Butchers?


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## JoeMcGlynn

Stanley #5, I did a blow-by-blow on my blog


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## CharlesAuguste

Im not sure Don, but i dont think so, but either way that is one good looking plane for sure!!


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## CharlesAuguste

Joe, nice blog!! them pictures of the figured wood you show on there are amazing!! and your saws handles resto
are very nicely done as well!!


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## JoeMcGlynn

This is a Disston that I picked up on ebay. The toothline was concave and it came to a point at the tip from being sharpened so many times.










I cut the saw plate down and retoothed it to make a panel saw.


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## CharlesAuguste

Joe, looking great i like the added nib nice touch


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## CharlesAuguste

Here is a buck saw resto, and a family heirloom as well. And after reshaping and sharpening the blade its cut branches like butter.


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## CharlesAuguste

And here id the final pictures somehow couldnt ad to previous post!!


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## Bertha

Don, it is the same! The best vintage irons out there, IMHO. I don't know what's different about them (no metallurgist) but they seem to keep an edge forever. And they look damn cool.


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## superdav721

Charles I have an old bucksaw that has flowed down the family tree. I hope to do it as well as yours.


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## donwilwol

Al, that iron is the only reason I bought it. I'm adding a sole to tighten the mouth. It works really well even with the wide mouth. Its definitely a keeper.


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## Bertha

^it's a sweet plane, Don. I love that over-the-top deep, decorative stamping. How it should be.


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## CharlesAuguste

Superdav721, i have one of those bow saw metal tubing frame,and since i burn wood cutting branches and firewood with that metal tubing saw is a pain always binding etc. This Buck saw with a good set in the teeth
cuts like butter im really pleased with it!


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## superdav721

You make me want to start on it now.


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## planepassion

Recent estate sale find/refurb, of a hewing hatchet.

Before, as found:










Maker's mark reveals itself after Goof Off shower:










And the After reveal:


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## TrBlu

This is my "to do" list from recent estate sales.

Tim


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## CharlesAuguste

TrBlu nice score!! espicially that huge gouge! that should keep you busy for a day or two!


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## donwilwol

TrBlu, spin up the lathe man. What a nice haul


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## BrandonW

Nice scrore, Tim. I have about a dozen socket chisels that all need handles. Problem is, I just hate firing up the lathe.


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## donwilwol

Really brandon? I've only had a lathe for a year maybe less. I think its the coolest thing. I am mesmerized every time I make something with it.


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## BrandonW

Don, my lathe isn't the best, so it's always a bit of a hassle to use. I don't have the right tool rest for it. It's a metal working lathe that does woodworking secondarily. Attaching wood to the chuck is a bit of a pain. I finally got some decent tools for it, so that's better now. All that, and I still managed to make a chisel handle today.


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## TrBlu

When I get caught up with a few project commitments, the gouges are first up.


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## lysdexic

Don, did you bid on "the hammer in hand" book?


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## donwilwol

Edit: for brandon
phew, for a second I thought you were going to start wining. I have an old craftsman lath, cheap craftsman cutters, remade parts, I have to clamp the spindle base, I made the tool rests. That's the part that mesmerizes me. It still makes some cool stuff. i wish I had a metal working lathe. I want to turn an aluminum knob for my aluminum toted #5 1/4. (no, I don't know why, its just something i want to do)

Looks like I have about a weeks down time. (subject to change of course) get me the knob profile you want!!


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## donwilwol

ok Scott. "the hammer in hand" book? Should I know what that means? I may have missed a post or 2.


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## lysdexic

Don, no. The Schwarz was auctioning of a book to raise money for the Woodwhisperer. A Don Williams bid $100. Then some other dude bid $400. Crazy. I didn't know if you were that Don.


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## hhhopks

TrBlu, the expectation is that you get them all clean and show us the evidence.
Otherwise we will have to do it for you. Of course we will return it back to you in due course. : )


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## TrBlu

If you saw the post where I originally showed those tools, you saw I purchased a battery charger to build an electrolysis chamber. That is the first project after I get caught up with customer & family commitments.

I have two more saws and a draw knife to add to the list that is not in the picture.

I have a few planes, I reworked by hand, I may do again with electrolysis. Not real happy with my previous rust removal.


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## Bertha

TruBlu, I'm a shocker almost exclusively! I never really got on the Evaporust team. I know Dan muscles them with brushes and the like. I like to set it and forget it


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## TrBlu

Thanks Bertha. I may have to hit you with a few questions, once I get started.


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## Dcase

EvapoRust will do a great job of taking the rust off. You just soak it for a while then take out and rinse/dry. I like EvapoRust because its easy and its always right at hand. If I just have a few small parts that I want to clean all I have to do is toss them in a little jar with the ER and in an hour or two they are rust free.

EvapoRust can be expensive though when you need to cover larger tools.

I keep a little baby food jar filled with the EvapoRust and I toss the small parts in there.


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## Bertha

TruBlu, hit me up! I started a blog about it once. Somewhere.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Especially for Don, a completed #62 refurb. The before pic:










The after, with Lie-Nielsen iron:


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## donwilwol

now that's what I'm talkin about!


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## Dcase

Smitty- Very nice looking 62.

I wanted to share how do my final sanding/polishing on plate knobs, totes and saw handles. I start with sand paper and work up to 220 grit. Once I have finished with the 220 grit I switch from sandpaper to 3M Scotch pads. The pads come in Green (coarse), Red (Medium), Grey (fine), and White (very fine). I find these work so much better on handles because the pads fold and follow the shape of the handle or knob. Its hard to get sandpaper to do this without ripping the paper. The white pad leaves an ultra fine/smooth surface.

Here is a pic of a plane knob that I recently sanded down. I show the pads I use in the picture.


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## donwilwol

Dan, 2 suggestions if I may. Grind the screw head down so it just slides into the larger section of the hole in the knob (just be careful, grinding down the last one I made is how I blacken my thumbnail) and find a washer a littler smaller than the knob.

I do the same thing. I want to get a chuck for my lath because it spins faster.


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## Dcase

Don, I planned on picking up a bolt with a smaller head but I keep forgetting when I am at the hardware store. I may go your route and grind that one down. What I have been doing is just sanding that very top part after I have taken the bolt out. It would be much easier if the head was not exposed like that though.

The washer you see in that picture is actually the perfect size for the Stanley Rosewood knobs. The knob in the pic was the one I just did for my 40 1/2 scrub plane and it was smaller at the base the the usual bench plane knob. The washer didn't get in the way though.


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## donwilwol

i have a smaller bolt, but don't like it as well. First, the threads get damaged quicker on the smaller bolt and it tends to be harder to keep tight. There are a few knobs the larger one (I think its 1/4×20 but could be wrong) won't go threw, but not very many.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Another recent clean-up, a Stanley SW #18 block plane.


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## lysdexic

What is your technique of choice for buffing out the nickel plating? Sorry, the hallmark of adult learning is repetition.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I had no ideas and couldn't find much info on the web, either. So, with nothing to lose, I hit the knuckle cap with a steel wire wheel in the drill press. It worked! Of course, it's a thin finish, and too much wheel will flake the nickle. Especially what's not totally solid to start with.


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## donwilwol

Make sure its a fine wire brush. I have both a fine and course. I use the course to quickly take the plating off parts if desired.


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## Bertha

Scotty, I've got several hard felt/fabric pads labeled with different polishing compounds. Go to Lowes over by the biscuits and bandsaw blades and you'll find little round cylinders with different color caps (red, green, etc.). They are labeled 1, 2, 3, etc. and are for cleaning, polishing, etc. I charge up the pad (mine are yellowish gold, also from Lowes) and go sequentially from coarser to finer. Probably not the best supplies, but they're at Lowes ffs and for cheap. 
.
I can see myself in my 18 knuckle and this is all I've done.
.


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## CharlesAuguste

Dan, if you turn the the plane knob on your lathe why not finish it on the lathe, turns faster and you can burnish it
with all the shavings from the turnings.


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## buffalosean

This is a good thread. I which there was a devoted section for restoration. it would be a great complement to the review section. Woodworkers could check out a tools performance and see how to restore it.


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## CharlesAuguste

Bertha, can you post pic of the pads you talk about and the compound?


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## donwilwol

not a great before shot, but this one is on the left.



















The oak inlay was there so I left it.


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## Bertha

I can and will, Charles. It's pouring right now but I'll be out there in a bit


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## CharlesAuguste

Don another great restoration, whats up with that inlay?


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## donwilwol

It was reinforcement for a long ago break. I cut a kerf, added epoxy and left the inlay. Look close and you can see.


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## CharlesAuguste

Ok now i get it, definately unusual but functional!


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## Bertha

^actually, a pretty nice repair job


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## donwilwol

I'm beginning to grow a fondness to two tone wood on my planes. My favorite knob. Its on my 5 1/4.










Before










now (this is before I made the new knob)


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## donwilwol

And one I finished up today, no home yet, set in reserve.


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## hhhopks

I think these repairs really add character to the tool.
I will have to rethink how I'll repair the next handle/tote/knob…...


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## bandit571

Let's see IF these show up:









the before shot, and









the after shot of the D8 thumbhole. A little extra wood. Etch is just starting to show through, need some Gun Blue









Got some wood to make a handle for the Donor Saw, needs a glue up, tonight.


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## hhhopks

Here is the woodworking vise that I have recently restored.

Before:









After:









Here is the link to my blog of the restoration.
http://lumberjocks.com/hhhopks/blog/28947


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## bandit571

Another saw restore:









before, and after









Black Walnut for the new handle…


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## KMTSilvitech

Wow,That Powermatic is awesome! Hard to believe its the same machine. Good work.


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## KMTSilvitech

Great job on the restorations. I guess I'd better get to work.


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## bandit571

While not quite done, just a look at where this one was









Changing to a wood handle









and fitted back onto a clean and sharpened blade









This was a whopping $2 investment. 8 point cross cut saw, Sycamore handle ( needs a stain/varnish) and needs a few "new" sawnuts. That means another walk downtown, and about $2 for another old rusty saw to donate parts. Never ends…..


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## donwilwol

Union #6

Before

















After


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

That's a pretty fine looking plane, Don! Not seen any unions in person, not sure I'll ever see one as nice as that. Love that very-squat knob - like a mushroom. Excellent restore. No action shot?


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## CharlesAuguste

Don your getting pretty good at this!! im kidding your restoration have been superb!! Is it the same tote repaired?
Do you replace the japaning with paint? Here a pic of one of my favorite plane a match plane Union 41,
this plane has seen a lot of use and it makes tongue and groves quick and without any noise hence router etc
I find this union plane to be built like a tank and are wonderful users. Might not command the prices of stanley
but that just makes it more appealing to users!!!


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## donwilwol

Shane, I do have some action shots. A little promoting won't hurt.









Charles, I'm looking for a #49 or look alike. I just haven't found one in my price range yet.


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## CharlesAuguste

Don the 49 is the same but for thin stock? if i remember correctly?


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## BrandonW

Don, you're selling your Union 6? I thought you were gonna start a Union collection.


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## donwilwol

I was starting a collection of Ohio Tools. I just won a #5, and finishing the restore on a 6 and 7.

I think this is the only Union I've ever owned.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Don, I'm coveting a #49 for someday, too. See 10 #48s for every #49 that comes along. Might take awhile!


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## bandit571

A "before" saw









and the "after" shot









Sycamore handle, 8 point crosscut Banditston S1


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## donwilwol

I need both the #48 and #49. At this point I'm not worried about the brand.


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## Bertha

I got the big Record shoulder in the shocker as we speak.


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## donwilwol

ok Al, waiting on pictures. Nothing better than a well shocked Record.

Except maybe:

a Ohio tools #6 or should I say #06

Before









After

















More of the story

And a preview of things to come


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## Bertha

Holy moly. I'm becoming quite fond of the Ohios myself. This isn't helping.


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## lysdexic

Don,

I ask that you educate me on your technique. The Ohio and Union have a superb patina after refurb and it is the "level" of restoration that I am striving for. I am not really into bright and shiny as Smitty believes. On those planes you have removed the rust, dirt and grime. Yet, the dark dark patina remains. How? Is it magic?


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## redryder

Last summer I went to a garage sale with my nine year old grandson. While I was cruising the tables for stuff I didn't need and not really paying attention to what Jr. was up to, I turned around to see him walking towards me with a rust bucket in hand. He informed me he purchased this old hand crank bench top grinder for $5.00. I shot the guy who sold it to him a dirty look and then looked over our new shop tool purchase. We took it home and played with it, tore it apart and did a little refurb on it. It grinds like a champ. No name, numbers or any identifying marks on it to see when it was made. Lots of similar grinders on the internet but I could not find this model anywhere.

I have learned to keep a closer eye on my grandson and not let him bring his wallet to the garage sales.

Hope you like it…....................


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## donwilwol

Scott
Here's the blog

Sandblasted what's left of the japanning
painted
wire brushed most other parts
Always try to save original pieces.

Redryder, I like the hand grinder. I have a few. I never restored them though. Great job.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I thought you had a piece of magic poplar or a rock in the backyard, don…


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## donwilwol

well, the magic poplar helps.

I don't have a before picture. The reason. It looked so bad I didn't think it was restorable. Yep, even I didn't think it had possibilities. I planned to use the frog for another one of these. I planned to save as much of the base for future repair pieces. As I started scraping and sanding, this began to emerge.














































The cap iron and iron are pitted so bad the iron will never be usable. I even tried the ruler trick but the pitting is to deep. I decided to paint the cap iron to hide some of the pitting. It will be a show piece until I stumble onto a new iron.


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## KenBry

Before

























After


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## donwilwol

nice restore Ken. Glad to see another back in service.


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## lysdexic

Don, thanks for the link. I've followed your blog since the beginning. It is just that metal of those planes don't look like they have seen the belt sander as is typical. Maybe just wire brushing is the key.


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## donwilwol

the only time I will belt sand an iron is if the back needs some serious flattening or pit removal. Even then I finish with the brush. I like the brushed look. Leather gloves suggested though.









This looked worse yesterday!


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## KPW

Here's a little Craftsman block I did for my son in law. $12 find. Now I want to keep it. Anyone know if this was made by Stanley and what the vintage is? # on side is 107-37032


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## donwilwol

An Upson #29 - The blog



















-After-


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## donwilwol

Ken, according to this http://www.patented-antiques.com/Tools_MiscPlanes.htm it was made by Union.

But according to this http://www.patented-antiques.com/Backpages/T-F-S/miscplanes/ohio-union.htm maybe not.

It may take some serious research.


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## KPW

Okay Don, So now I am completely confused. My plane definitely is stamped Craftsman 107-37032 on the side but it has what Bertha calls the fish mouth adjuster with the vertical wheel. The Meeker planes have the Norris style adjuster but they are calling it the same number. Oh well. Maybe there is no bottom to this story. Thanks for the info.


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## donwilwol

Comb threw some of these lKen. You might find a hint.


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## bandit571

this nasty thing cleaned up well









Stanley Rule & level Co. #129 aka liberty bell plane, 20" long fore plane.


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## ksSlim

KPW-the 107 mfg. code in the part number indicates it was supplied to Sears by Miller Falls.


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## ratchet

I knew this would happen. Once that powermatic lathe was posted the rest of us now are humbled. LOL


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## KPW

Thanks ks. Do you have any idea of the vintage ?


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## donwilwol

This wasn't in bad shape, but it fought me a little bit. I had to shrink the mouth a couple of time. I added a sole and some how wound up with it still to big. The iron did not fit correctly, I don't think they went together originally. They fit now.

Before









Now


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## AnthonyReed

Wow. Very nice Don


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## Willeh

All through my childhood, i recall this old saw hanging on the wall of my dad's garage. My dad was a millwright and didn't have the time of day for anything to do with wood.. As such, he didn't have any related tools, so in the odd occasion that wood would need to be cut around the house, the job was always turned to this old saw hanging on the wall.. Decade after decade, it always looked the same, and got a work out once or twice a year. Last week, I decided to ask the old man for the saw so that I could breath some life into it and maybe get a bit of use out of it, since afterall, i've been really moving towards hand tools lately.

My dad says this was one of the first tools he got in Canada when he emmigrated from the UK in the 70s. He was given it by a friend who was cleaning out a garage, and in his recollection, when he got it, it was a really old saw that has looked pretty much the same way it did when he gave it to me (as pictured below).



















Still surprisingly sharp and cuts pretty well both rip and crosscut (I have no idea whether it is setup to rip or crosscut, but it does a decent job with both).

Here it is after some TLC. I tried to go after a old but well cared for look rather than take it right down to fresh and make it look like brand new. I didnt try too hard to remove some of the deeper stains fearing weakening the saw plate. The steel is still very flexible and hasnt brittled over the years.





































The handle appears to be made of Beech. From what i've found online, it is a Shurley Deitrich saw made in St. Catharines Ontario (Canada) pre WW1


----------



## donwilwol

That's a great restore, and a great story to go along with it. Good for another couple hundred years.


----------



## CharlesAuguste

Love the saw and the story as well!! that medalion is very cool looking!!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

That is a classically fine saw, Willeh! I love that shape of handle, with the top-side 'nib' design. Great job, congrats and thanks for sharing!


----------



## NormG

You have been a very busy industrious woodworker. Great job, especially like the way the hand brace came out


----------



## dbray45

Make sure you show the saw to your dad. This lets him know how much you appreciate the gift. You did a very good job on it.


----------



## Bertha

Awesome saw! Here's my before:
.








.
I don't have an "after" yet, so I'll show a middle:
.









.


----------



## donwilwol

basically before and after all at once.


----------



## ksSlim

Bertha…interesting use of a "workmate companion" AKA butt prop!


----------



## lysdexic

Damn, Don. Your rate of production is impressive.


----------



## donwilwol

just to be clear Scott. Some of these are past restores. The brace was done a long time ago. Likewise was this blast from the past.

Before









After


----------



## lysdexic

Still, I have not found the time to just finish the lambs tongue on my saw handle. Keep 'em coming as I really enjoy the restores.


----------



## Bertha

Lol, KS! A man with a tiny shop has got to accessorize


----------



## SamuelP

Here is my $21 4 1/2.










Evaporust.










Almost finished.










Just need to sharpen and flatten the sole.


----------



## ksSlim

Sprev.-Is that a "mud box" you're useing for derusting? That one will clean up nicely.


----------



## SamuelP

Yes. It is a mud box.


----------



## Bertha

I had my doubts, looking at that cap iron. Shows how much I know! Sam, have you always been from West Virginia? I'm in Chicago right now, missing WV.


----------



## SamuelP

I am originally from FL, St. Pete area. I have lived here in WV for the past 5 years.


----------



## donwilwol

Stanley #120 before. it is the second iteration of the plane. The first had a turned applewood knob that slips into a cast socket. Mine has a threaded knob that was the second iteration. (resource is supertool.com)


















After


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Ooo, that is a very, very nice shiny thing, Don! Two-tone looks good when Stanley does it.


----------



## SamuelP

That star on the cap is special. You have a collectors piece there.


----------



## Bertha

That 120 is the stuff of dreams. I think you hit the knob perfectly in size and shape. She's a looker.


----------



## KPW

I want to throw out a public thanks to ksSlim. He sent me a link that finally tracked down the vintage on my little Craftsman 207-37032. Turns out it's a Miller Falls #26 made between 1929 and 1944. Thanks to all who helped. I love this site!


----------



## KPW

Hey Don, Where do you get that special wood that shaves off like ribbon candy? Just kidding.


----------



## donwilwol

Ken, I grow that special.


----------



## donwilwol

Stanley #31


----------



## donwilwol

what was the link that you used to track down the vintage? I'd like to see it.


----------



## KPW

Don, It was oldtoolheaven.com They have a section in there for MF block planes. Don't know how accurate they are but it's the closest thing I've seen so far. Also they don't really say if MF made the C-man but ksSlim told me that's what the 107 prefix means. I have no reason to doubt him.


----------



## KPW

Don, Great job on the #31. I think it deserves some of the specially grown shaving tree wood. I've also noticed you've given some of that wood to smitty and Dan. Where's mine?


----------



## donwilwol

ahhh, I don't give it away. Its very expensive!


----------



## donwilwol

I've seen a few guys say that the 107 has a Millers Falls meaning. I've just never seen it written in a site that would know. Not saying its wrong, I'm just saying I'd like to verify it somehow.


----------



## Bertha

*ahhh, I don't give it away.*
Yeah, at $30 a board foot, I have to save up a bit
.
the 107? Doesn't that mean Craftsman or something? I read it somewhere here.


----------



## donwilwol

Here'a a Shelton block that I thought was pretty cool.
Before










After


















More pic's of interested.


----------



## KPW

Yeah. I here you. I never have as of yet. I do think the MF # 26 description fit my block plane to a tee even up to the nickel plated cap iron so for now I'm convinced until anyone can prove it wrong. I might find some of my own shave tree wood. I got a hunch it's somewhere around my sharpening station.


----------



## AnthonyReed

That Shelton is stunning Don. I really like that one. Nice Job. Most definitely a keeper.


----------



## ksSlim

Here's a site that has a listing of "Sears" manufactuer codes.
http://vintagemachinery.org/craftsman/manufacturers.aspx


----------



## lysdexic

Don, there you go again with that dark, clean patina. I really admire what you do for these planes. You have talent my friend.


----------



## Bertha

^I love that Shelton. Like Scott, I love that rich gunmetal.


----------



## KPW

Thanks again ks. You've got me convinced but not sure about Don. He'll get over it.


----------



## donwilwol

Thanks slim, that's exactly what I was looking for.

I've added it tom my reference blog.

Thanks for the encouragement everyone. I kind of like some of the recent blocks. I was never into the block planes much before. The sickness grows!!


----------



## bandit571

A before:









And with the saw blade









And, now, awaiting the bolts to show up:









Handle look any better???


----------



## Bertha

Handle looks great! Nice drywall screw, lol


----------



## Mosquito

I also posted this in the Handplanes of your Dreams thread too… a 7C I got on the bay of e's and cleaned up to be a user.




All pictures through out found here:
http://www.mosquitomediaserver.com/projectLogImages/Stanley7CRestoration/


----------



## ShipWreck

Nice work everyone. Keep posting the great pictures of your work. It is fun to see all the old iron brought back to life. I am still tweeking on the 3 planes I bought 5-6 weeks ago. I have been relearning sharpening freehand. It's been 2 steps forward and one step back, but I finally have it nailed down. I brought this HOCK blade back from a minor accident. I dropped it from a shelf and had to rework it because one side got dinged pretty well. There is still a minor flaw to one side, but it cuts nice. No sense in more metal removal until the next honing.


----------



## KPW

Wreck, Nice job on the HOCK. Whats your process?


----------



## donwilwol

Stanley #27


----------



## ShaneA

Looks amazing Don.


----------



## bandit571

When last seen,with a drywall screw for hardware









Is now complete:


----------



## lysdexic

Don, that may be one of your more dramatic before and afters.


----------



## Bertha

^totally agree.


----------



## lysdexic

Bandit, that sir, is a handsome saw.


----------



## bandit571

When you take two Shorty saws, and blend them together









add some better hardware, and a new finish, what do you wind up with?









A "blend" of East & West. Even kept both Medallions. A Close-up??









Right after these pictures were taken, the saw went right into my High-Tech Saw Vise for a rip-style sharpening. Never did find an etch on the blade….


----------



## bandit571

I have found a way to finish these old handles. I take some minwax Ipswich Pine stain, add in some Gloss Poly by Minwax. Stir things up real nice and smooth, and…..just wipe on. Fingers get a might sticky. I have been using a chunk of steel wool as a "brush". That way, things get smoother as i go. Steel wool is the 0000 kind. The piece i used on ththe last two handles was getting a might ratty. After a few handles , that wool ain't going to rust anything. Anything else in the wool is either long gone, or, sealed in by the last job. Colour does tend to match what was on there to start with, though.


----------



## KPW

I saw a whole box of saws in an antique shop yesterday but I have no idea what they're worth. Some were $20 down to $12. Disttons,craftsmans and others. Good shape just sharpened. How do you value these things?


----------



## donwilwol

Ken, ask the question over here . You may need to supply some additional info.


----------



## donwilwol




----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Nice!


----------



## Bertha

^boy, I love those squirrels. I've never pulled the trigger on one but I really admire them.


----------



## knotscott

Here's the restoration of my $6 Bedrock 605 …I think it's a BR type 6, 1914-1918:


----------



## lysdexic

Bravo on the bedrock. Is that recent?


----------



## CharlesAuguste

The Bedrock looks great and the price is awsome good work!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Outstanding!!!


----------



## knotscott

"Bravo on the bedrock. Is that recent?"

...nah…did that about 2 years ago. The honey-do list has been interfering with *everything* since then!


----------



## ksSlim

Awsome job on the Bedrock. Thanks for posting the pics.


----------



## BTKS

Excellent work on the BR.


----------



## KPW

Scott, Great job on the BR. I'm sure Dude would like to have that one!


----------



## bandit571

From a $1 Rust Bunny:









To a nice little user block plane









Cleaned up nicely









From a rusty hulk









Modified a Bakelite Handle ( shortened it with a saw)









Even the sole looks better


----------



## KPW

Nice job bandit. What is that thing?


----------



## bandit571

Made by millers Falls. called a Mohawk-shelburne #700 ( I think) Total rust bucket. Cost a whole dollar bill!!! A little bit of work, some black paint, and a tune up of the iron…









These shavings are from the face side of that board









Just some old poplar..


----------



## donwilwol

Bandit, it does look much better.

Since knotscott did such a fine job on the bedrock, here is mine. Its another past project.


----------



## KPW

There you go again with that shavewood tree. Don, Run me by your sharpening method real quick. I know you use Diamond right?


----------



## donwilwol

I do now Ken, but I didn't then. Its simple, I hollow grind at 25 degrees, only the first time to get the angle right. Then I hit the stones. I used to use oil stones, now its DMT's, either work just fine.

Make sure the backs of the irons are flat.

I use a strop but only for the back of the iron to remove the burr.

I have a set of 4 DMT's, but when I used oil stones I went from the grinder to the fine, the the strop.

Now I just use the DMT's unless its the first time sharpening a blade.


----------



## CharlesAuguste

I use the same method but with 3 dmt and they work very nicely, and the touch up on the edge is lighting fast.
No grinder only the first time to get the correct angle.


----------



## ksSlim

Amen on the DMTs. My oilstones languish until its time for hunting season and skinning blades.
Too many years tuning knives to change that process. DMTs are great for wood tools but I wouldn't try to scarpe my neck with a plane blade. Arms, yes, neck NO!


----------



## KPW

Thanks Don And Charles. What are the grits?


----------



## LukieB

Forgive my ignorance, but what are DMTs?


----------



## CharlesAuguste

Coarse fine and superfine! there a great video i saw recently on sharpening with diamond plate on youtube
but i cant remember the name of it! i know its from a member here from UK


----------



## CharlesAuguste

LukieB no ignorance at all thats what all these forums are all about sharing and discovering new things,
that said a DMT is a diamond impregnated plate sharpening device, dmt is actually a company that makes these plates. They are wonderful to quickly refresh an edge fast and dont require maintenance.


----------



## donwilwol

The oil stone I used I'm not sure of the grit. I just know it was better (harder and finer) than my 6000 grit waterstone. Since I picked up all my oil stones at flea markets, I never really knew what grit they were.

DMTs, course (D8C), fine (D8F), extra-fine (D8E), and extra-extra-fine (D8EE) stones


----------



## donwilwol

LukieB, I didn't see your question before my last post, CharlesAuguste defined them well, and here is Dan's review for more info.


----------



## KPW

Thanks Don and Charles. I'll be going with the DMT's as soon as I move to FLA. June 15th.


----------



## bandit571

A $5 Rustie by UNION of NEW BRITAIN CT









The size of a Stanley #3c, but by Union









cleaned up rather nicely









and a second look









and the bottom


----------



## Bertha

I am just in awe. All I can manage to say is that the DMT extra course is insanely coarse. Don't plan to follow that diamond stone with anything other than small decrease in grit.


----------



## donwilwol

Before, Stanley #4



















Now.


----------



## donwilwol

My new 608




























Restored


----------



## BrandonW

Looking great, Don! Are you planning on using those pre-existing holes to add a jointer fence? I know I would.


----------



## donwilwol

Brandon, I sure am!


----------



## Mosquito

That looks fantastic Don! You do great work. The last shot before the shavings shots makes it look extremely long behind the tote…


----------



## KenBry

Nice work Don


----------



## ShipWreck

It is a real pleasure to look at all these old pieces. Thank you everyone for posting the great pics.

A couple of years ago, I thought you were nuts.

V/R…...John


----------



## CharlesAuguste

Very nice restoration guys!! some great work for sure!


----------



## cjwillie

Good to know there's a real interest in preserving and USING these old tools! You guys have all done some fantastic work to save a part of the past. These are the tools that put the work in woodworking. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## donwilwol

I posted this on the "Hand Planes of Your Dreams"thread but thought I'd post it here as well. It is an ebay purchase. Its probably the first plane I've bought that is actually worse than it looked in the pictures. I Painted the sides to help hide the weld. Used some prototype knob and tote. A sweat surprise though, it had a Sweat heart iron.

I wanted to create a 4 size jack, and I know I could have done it with a $6 no-name, but I got this idea in my head.

As Bought:









Now:


----------



## bandit571

A Stanley #80 Scraper plane, Before









another "before"









and now, the AFTER









One more, After??









A $4 plane


----------



## bandit571

A second Stanley plane, also $4









And, after a very good clean up


----------



## donwilwol

They certainly look better now Bandit.


----------



## Bertha

Bandit, you're a friggin star!


----------



## BrandonW

Spray paint covers a multitude of sins.


----------



## lysdexic

Remains me of a SawStop.


----------



## ksSlim

>lysdex…. must be gettin sloooow, I missed that one.


----------



## canadianchips

Some very fine examples of how tools are supposed to be treated. 
OUTSTANDING job everyone !
I'm sure even the "antique people" would appreciate the finished product rather than the rust or as they call it "patina"


----------



## lysdexic

kaSlim,
Yea, that comment was kinda lame. I was just referring to the piano black paint and the fact that some here hate SawStop because it reminds them of a grand piano.


----------



## terryR

Love all the beautiful planes you guys are restoring! How about a non-plane…....

Disston Triumph Saw Set probably from 1950's?:









after cleaning, and bit of paint:


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

The Stanley #11 Belt Plane refurb:


----------



## lysdexic

Shiny! :^)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I'm all about shiny, you know…

Seriously,

I've dressed up the several weld lines and opted to paint afterward for best esthetic. It actually is a decent, wide, low angle amoother in use.


----------



## lysdexic

It looks great.

Seriously,

I have aquired several planes over the past few weeks but I have not posted them here. Why? Because of your Jedi mind trick. "You do not need to restore these planes. Shiny is not what you are looking for." Slight wave of hand.

So, I have just sharpened them and put the to work. However, they don't qualify for a spot on this thread - thanks to you.


----------



## bandit571

a WS & M Co. rip saw ($2) Before









during a re-fit









and the ( drumrollllllll) after









Still needs one more coat and a buffing out, right now, just hanging around with some friends, enjoying the afternoon sunshine…


----------



## KPW

Nice job bandit. Whats with the xtra holes in the original handle?


----------



## chrisstef

Do you guys use buffing wheels to clean the lever caps and cheeks of the planes i see around here? If so what kind of wheel? At what speed? I just inherited a 3475 rpm grinder and id like to swap out one grinding wheel for a buffing wheel. Im also seriously pondering a work sharp .. i think im over trying to rehone by hand and ive got about 6 planes awaiting restore.


----------



## MedicKen

Never did get a photo of the unisaw complete


----------



## bandit571

KPW: Those "extra" holes in the old handle?? I haven't a clue as to why someone drilled them. Seems this saw went through a "botched rehab" sometime in the past. I bought it for $2 as is, and just restored things back to almost new.

chrisstef: I have a wire wheel for the drill press, one steel, and one brass. I also have a "cup" wire brush for the drill press. I got tired of eating all those wires coming off the grinding wheel. The wheel on that grinder shed almost as most wire as it did rust. I have been known to chuck my beltsander up into a vise, and use it that way









or I just clamp it ( jed) to the side of a bench


----------



## chrisstef

Well thats one way to do i guess lol. Ill have to get some of those wire wheels those planes have been sitting for way too long.


----------



## donwilwol

chrisstef, I have a wire wheel ona 3400 rpm electric motor. I have a buffing wheel on an electric motor as well (I think the buffer is 1750rpm) but I typically only use it for the brass nuts and the chip breaking part of the chip breaker. the lever caps and cheeks of the planes just get a course wire wheel typically.


----------



## TechRedneck

Medic

Gotta love that old iron. Nice restores there. My old Parks planer has been sitting for a couple years now waiting for some TLC.


----------



## terryR

Hey MedicKen, I think I'm in love with your Oliver table saw! Nicest looking table saw I've seen. Great job on all those tools!


----------



## superdav721

Irwin Auger Bits


----------



## Bertha

That Oliver is friggin pornographic. It's so beautiful that it hurts.


----------



## superdav721

.


----------



## donwilwol

Bandit, the bits look great

but that oliver!!


----------



## donwilwol

Follow the blog


----------



## CharlesAuguste

Nice restoration Don, and a wonderful plane to use, great job!


----------



## Dusty56

I'm happy that you started this post…I'm rebuilding a 50's vintage Powermatic 60 , 8" jointer right now.
It fired right up after sitting in a barn for 20 years and ran smooth as could be. Terrible rust and a few mouse / chipmunk nests in the body cavities. I think I'll replace the bearings while it's apart though , just to be safe : )


















9.25" x 64" flight deck : )










*PS : Looking for a porkchop return spring , or at least a picture of one to go by. : )*


----------



## Dusty56

Sorry , just noticed that this is for Hand Tools.


----------



## lysdexic

No, no. This is not just just for hand tools. Look at the stuff MedicKen posted. Gorgeous.


----------



## Bertha

nonononon. Don't stop!!!!!!


----------



## donwilwol

that vintage Powermatic is out of this world. Put that next to medicKen's Oliver and we'll change the name to restorations of your dreams. WOW.

The thread is restorations before and after. I really don't care if its a puck up truck. This stuff is way cool (I learned the "way cool" from my kids)


----------



## lysdexic

The only problem that I have with this thread is that it makes me realize that I have the "IKEA's" of power tools.


----------



## donwilwol

But back to my small stuff.




































Some more pictures if interested.


----------



## Dusty56

*DonW*...just checked out your other pics….You do incredible work !! The photography is superb as well : )

I just got done with an old Millers Falls No.9 and a Stanley with no numbers on it.The sole is 14" long x 2.5" wide 
I plan on using them so I didn't make them all shiny , just removed the rust and cleaned up the handles and made everything work again.
I still need to lap the soles and sharpen the blades. Sorry , no before pictures.


----------



## donwilwol

Scott wrote The only problem that I have with this thread is that it makes me realize that I have the "IKEA's" of power tools.

I'll second that. I can't get that oliver and powermatic out of my mind.


----------



## donwilwol

thanks Dusty. I really enjoy restoring these old things. As my line made infamous by Andy ,

"I like Vintage tools. It's what I do to forget about what I do when I need to forget about what I do. Saws, planes, chisels, hammers, it doesn't matter."

Should have stuck vintage olivers and powermatics in there some where too!!


----------



## Danpaddles

What GREAT restoration jobs. Very nice.

I am inspired- look out Dewalt RAS- here comes a wire brush.


----------



## Dusty56




----------



## donwilwol

they look great dusty. I like the wood on that Millers Falls. That must be a type 1 or 2.


----------



## Dusty56

Believe it or not , that beautiful wood was hiding beneath a layer of generic "reddish" finish that was all cracked and had pieces of the finish missing from it. I was so happy to have stripped it and found what I believe to be a type of Rosewood. Should have taken the before pictures : (
The Stanley had black finish on the handles prior to stripping them. I am also pleased with those : )


----------



## donwilwol

Early Miller Falls used cocobola.


----------



## Dusty56

I wonder if that could be it then ? I haven't played with Cocobolo enough to recognize it. Looks like I'll have to do some research : ) Thanks , Don.


----------



## donwilwol

A Millers Falls 900













































As usually more pictures of this plane on my blog.


----------



## Dusty56

*DonW ,and others*... 
I'm having issues trying to decide if I want a GRAY battleship (original color of my Powermatic 60) in my shop , or to paint it one of two lighter colors that I found in the store today. It's quite a large carcase to be one solid dark color in my small basement shop.
What are your thoughts , folks ? Thank you : )


----------



## donwilwol

GRAY battleship would be my vote Dusty.


----------



## Dusty56

Yup , torn between keeping it close to original or brightening up my work space : ( 
Thanks for your input, Don : )


----------



## ShipWreck

I found this old Stanley in a barn last week. The body/sole/sides had very deep pitting. I almost threw it in the trash a couple of times thinking I wasnt going to save it. It took up most of my weekend. It even came with a hornets nest at the adjuster.


----------



## donwilwol

i hope the hornets nest was vacated! It sure looks much better now!!


----------



## Dusty56

Evap-o-rust believer : )


----------



## ShipWreck

Thanks for posting that one Dusty, I have been curious about Evaporust.


----------



## Bertha

I can't wait to see that jointer take shape!


----------



## cjwillie

Some great restorations of some great tools! Keeps me motivated to get some of mine done. Here's a couple of my recent finds restored. I still need to flatten the sole of the Bedrock but it cleaned up well and will make a great user. The #95 just needed a bath and a little honing of the blade.


























!http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j468/cjwillie1/100_1288.jpg!


----------



## cjwillie

While I'm at it, here's a few pics of my 1956 Delta bandsaw, after and before. Somehow they got out of order, same with the planes from previous post.


----------



## donwilwol

cjwillie, that's a couple nice examples of restorations well done.


----------



## cjwillie

Thanks Don, it's almost at the point that it's more fun to restore these old tools than using them! But after all that work, they will get used!


----------



## Dusty56

Hi *Shipwreck* , you're welcome : ) 
I soaked the rags in EvapoRust and laid them out on the tables because obviously I couldn't fully submerge them. You can see on the right side table where the different rag materials affected the performance of the EvapoRust. The red shop rags were too coarsely woven and you can see the results.The areas that are nearly rust free had old T-shirt material covering them and the EoR did a fine job there.
I applied the soaked rags and then covered them with plastic to help reduce evaporation of the product. Left them alone for three hours while I was working on the base and motor.
Hi* Bertha* , I got rained out today , so I located new knives and bearings for it…ate up a few hours for sure.
I was able to get the bearings from a guy on ebay and my local sharpening service is custom making my knives. Only $35 for a set of 3 , 8"x7/8" x1/8" knives.
I have some of the small parts de-rusting as well. 
I'm still debating whether to repaint it in "close to original" Gray , or go with a lighter color.


----------



## donwilwol

I've got a Rigid Spindle/belt sander but am typically to lazy to switch it back and forth. I picked up a ryobi at a flea market for $25 but it likes to eat belts (drive belts not sand paper belts). So I've had this for a while and its been sitting in the way. I've been putting off getting it running (see it here almost a year ago), but the roybi belt is making that tell-tale noise again. Its not a MedicKen Oliver restore, but needed none the less.


----------



## ShipWreck

Nice work cjwillie & Don


----------



## Dusty56

cjwillie , very nice work on the planes , and the bandsaw looks good as well : )


----------



## cjwillie

Thanks guys! I have the bug again. Already looking for my next tool to give new life to! Sometimes I wonder which I enjoy more, restoring or using them when I'm done. I grew up learning how to fix things and it just seems a waste to let these old tools rust away and be neglected. Especially when they're usually better than the crap they try to sell us today! Besides it's cheaper than a girlfriend and my wife will let me have all the tools I want!!!


----------



## Dusty56

Besides it's cheaper than a girlfriend and my wife will let me have all the tools I want!!!
LMAO !!


----------



## donwilwol

I need to find a bandsaw like that one. Parts are starting to fall off my HF.


----------



## Bertha

CJ, you're a friggin animal! Every one of those tools is dreamy to me.


----------



## cjwillie

I must be doing something right. I hit a few garage sales today and found another gem, a Miller's Falls #14 for $5.00. It cleaned up really nice and the blade has never been sharpened. No damage to the nob or tote just a little bit of Japanning missing from the back end. I took before and after shots I'll get posted soon.

I found a Broadhead-Garrett vise last weekend for $10.00 that's a real beast. Solid and heavy, can't wait to get it mounted to the bench. Haven't been able to find a lot of info on it though. Found the company's website but they had nothing about old vises. Nothing close on searches. It's a B-G 500X vise. If anybody has any info on this I'd really appreciate it. I haven't cleaned it up yet but I took some before shots. I'm addicted to restoring tools AGAIN!!! or is that STILL!!!


----------



## ksSlim

Nice score willie!


----------



## cjwillie

Finally got done with the latest restorations. Here's the Millers Fall #14 and the Brodhead-Garrett vise. The vise works like new, or better and the red paint makes it easier to see so it will (hopefully be one less thing to run into!
















!http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j468/cjwillie1/100_1308.jpg!


----------



## TechRedneck

CJ

Very nice work. Something to be proud of and set for many more years of use. Do you have a bench to mount it on?


----------



## donwilwol

nice restores Willie. The Millers Falls looks great, but then the vise looks pretty good to.


----------



## racerglen

Very nice work !


----------



## lysdexic

I tell ya. Those MF planes are handsome. Nice CJ.


----------



## Bertha

I have a vise fetish


----------



## cjwillie

Got the vise mounted to the bench. That is one smooth working vise! No slop in it, works like new. I just wish it was a quick release, but I have one of those on the front of my bench.

The garage sales will continue but I need to get some other projects done. Thanks for all the motivation to get back to something I love to do. I'm sure I'll find other new toys to share with you all!!


----------



## ShipWreck

Good stuff CJ !


----------



## lysdexic

Al, or did you mean that you have a fetish vice?


----------



## rmoore

Here is the first (and only) hand plane I have done. I know it's not high quality, but it's also the first I've owned. It's a Great Neck G-4. The tote is plywood and the cap and chip breaker are chrome plated. I think I'll try to make a new knob and tote for it some day.


----------



## donwilwol

It's not the quality of the plane I worry a out, it's the quality of the planing. It looks good. I'm Not sure if I've ever held a Great Neck. It looks a lot like a Stanley from here.


----------



## rmoore

Thanks, Don. I need to get it all adjusted first. Still trying to figure it out.


----------



## bandit571

Another Great Neck plane:









Used to be a red bodied, black handled No. 1.









First step, get rid of the Bakelite Handles, and then that RED painted body got stripped down









Red paint was stripped off the body, and the frog. Both then got a nice black and bare metal paint scheme.









and some Black walnut handles. A nice finish on the wood was next









Ready to join the rest of the #4s.


----------



## donwilwol

these are from my weekend of rust hunting.

as bought









now


----------



## carguy460

Don - thats amazing…and you bought them this weekend and they already look like that??? Whats with the double spokeshave thing? I'm not sure I've seen anything like that before…


----------



## Dennisgrosen

great job Don 
they already seems to say thanks for bringing us back to life 

Dennis


----------



## ShipWreck

Nice work Bandit & Don.

Question? Will Walnut stand up to heavy use as a tote? Walnut is my favorate wood.


----------



## donwilwol

I posted a few more pictures on my blog. https://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/some-before-and-after-pictures/

Jason, the double is a stanley #60. I can still make out the stanley stamp on the blades of both shaves.


----------



## donwilwol

Jason, I posted before finishing my thought,

I've made walnut totes with good luck. They seem to work well.


----------



## ShipWreck

Spokeshaves will be my next venture with planing.


----------



## TrBlu

Don,

Do you put anything on your tools after the electrolysis?

Thanks


----------



## donwilwol

I use fluid film to protect my tools.

http://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-Spray-AEROSOL-CAN/dp/B001OKBFBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1338291961&sr=8-1


----------



## rmoore

Don, don't want to assume so I'll ask; do you put it on after you paint, and does it have any tendency to rub off on wood. If so, does it affect a stain? Thanks.


----------



## donwilwol

do you put it on after you paint, Yes 
and does it have any tendency to rub off on wood. No
If so, does it affect a stain? I've never had a problem.

I use it on the bottom in place of wax a lot (a Paul Sellers recommendation to use oil) and I've never had a problem. Although I think wax may last longer.


----------



## cjwillie

First time I've heard of this stuff. Sounds like something I need to look into. Thanks for the info Don.


----------



## dbray45

Thanks Don - I too will lokk into it. I have always used car wax.


----------



## bandit571

Next up for restoration:









Maybe strip the old, almost there finish? new paint? Maybe some re-finishing to the handles?


> about all this needs. Oh well, sharpening, right


----------



## bandit571

Ok, got the small parts soaking in Vinegar right now. Got the sides and sole cleaned up, flat and shiny. I also gave them a coat of "3-in-1" oil. just a little, spread out real thin, and then wipe down with a paper towel.

Got the chip breaker all clean and shiny. Took awhile, but it now has a coat of oil on it as well. Iron? Still a work in progress, but it is now almost scary shart.

japaning is shot. Going for a full strip next. Then the Rustoleum spray treatment.

Iron width is 2-1/4". Matches the early Stanley 5-1/2s. So far, the only pitting is on the iron and chip breaker. Got most of the "patina" off, turns out to be just old rust.

Pictures in a little bit, after i get cleaned up. This is very dirty work…..


----------



## carguy460

"Still a work in progress, but it is now almost scary shart"

Any shart is a scary shart…


----------



## chrisstef

lol @ shart … thanks for the laugh this morning!


----------



## dbray45

It must this blog, I can't sppel eithr


----------



## bandit571

well after an overnight soaking, the small parts got cleaned off this morning:









Frog and some brassy looking thing









Lever cap









and it's backside. All the bolts got wirebrushed after a drying off. The flipper on the lever cap was almost frozen in place. Got it working nice and easy. Sides and sole were cleaned up last night, haven't checked for flat yet.









But it doesn't look too bad…









Mail carrier just left a small box for me, so I go check that out…..


----------



## racerglen

Bandit, you said soaking in vinagar ?
That's pretty clean, obviously works well ?

And a lot cheaper than the other options I'm thinking..


----------



## Dusty56

Did someone say Shart , as in Holy Shart !! ??

Vinegar , ay ? Red or White ?


----------



## bandit571

Nah, a White Shart…LOl yep Vinegar, Apple Cider Vinegar to be precise. Over-nighted, and then a wipe down to dry off. Then scrub the "H" out of them. Don't have enough of the stuff to do the base, so off to wire brush land we go…

Mail Carrier was good today, again. Small box had some plane parts i won on the bay. Two frogs, and a lever cap. Got one plane to fix up, after this BIG Union guy….


----------



## ksSlim

I thought a Shart was an electrical fart….Had at little juice.


----------



## SamuelP

Here is a nice restoration site.


----------



## bandit571

Ok, here is the Shart Plane, all fancified up. The before shot:









Not too bad, just need a 'touch-up" Well, new finish on the handles, some new paint, and a shining up of other parts









and a test drive on some 3/4 stock….


----------



## donwilwol

Before

























After


----------



## cjwillie

Looks great Don. You have to have a pretty nice collection by now! But there will ALWAYS be one more you just have to have!!!!


----------



## Dusty56

Great collection there !!


----------



## planepassion

Those are some great shots there Don. They showcase the fine work you put in to bring those beauties back to life and ready to be used.


----------



## carguy460

Arg…its time for me to ask another silly question that has already been answered…

I've got a no name plane that a friend asked me to restore for him as it was his grandfathers. Its in pretty rough shape, and I think I would like to try to go the "looks like new" route. I'm trying to decide on paint type now…

I did some research and found that Don paints his planes with semi-gloss black…and someone else out there uses the hammered black paint, but I can't figure out who the heck it was!!! Anyone point me in the direction of a restored plane painted with the hammered paint? I'd like to compare some pictures…


----------



## Dusty56

How about this one , Carguy ?
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/65157


----------



## bandit571

Before









During, and









the "After" money shot. Millers falls No. 9 , type 4.


----------



## donwilwol

Jason, I use Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black. I like it because it can be laid on thick with coats every 15 to20 minutes. I've used the hammer paint. I prefer the engine anamel.


----------



## carguy460

Dusty - thanks for the link…those were pretty nice restores that Mauricio had done.

Don - I think I'll follow your lead with the Ford Semi gloss…besides, I'm a ford guy, so its only fitting…


----------



## chrisstef

Quick question for all you restoring guru's out there … ive got an old cast iron adze head that id like to make a new handle for (after its derusted and a crack welded) would laminating 2 pieces of hickory be all right or should i just use a solid piece?


----------



## donwilwol

I think laminating would be fine. If done correctly its probably stronger.


----------



## chrisstef

This will be the next project after the coffee table …. thanks Don. Hickory is the wood of choice correct?


----------



## donwilwol

it would be my first choice.


----------



## CharlesAuguste

Totally agree with Don here, i have 3 splitting maul for firewood, needless to say you have to replace handles often i use hickory laminated and no problem!


----------



## ksSlim

Secret to keeping handles intact is to not use handle in direct with contact wood. (use the head not the handle) 
Learned this as a youngster, Dad made me replace handles broken by my inexperience. BTW, for the less experienced, a piece of radiator hose forced over the handle up next to the head will preserve the handle.


----------



## BTKS

Chrisstef, Hickory is the first choice but ash will work in a pinch. I can't see a problem with laminating. I think for a handle that may see outdoor use, extreme fast changes in humidity or direct contact with water or mud, I would use Gorilla glue or an equivelant. I did a small experiment with two canoe padels. The outdoor waterproof glue wasn't!!! The Gorilla glue never noticed the water, it's impervious.
Good luck.


----------



## donwilwol

depicted here http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/24114


----------



## planepassion

Don, your really brought out the grain on the restoration of the open-handle DT. Love it!

My latest restore.

Disston panel saw, c. 1878-1888 per medallion. Got it at an estate sale, $5.00. I almost didn't buy it because of the worst kink I've ever seen in a saw. It was even worse that it looks in the before picture. But, I wanted some more practice smithing out bows and kinks. And it worked out well in the end. It cuts nicely.










...and after the restore.










And a panorama view.










And detail shots of the handle.


----------



## donwilwol

that is a sweet saw Brad.


----------



## chrisstef

Brad that is one heck of a job on that saw. Ive tried a bunch and they are really time consuming, looks like you put some love in that one.


----------



## SamuelP

What did you do to that handle?


----------



## lysdexic

Ditto Sam's question. What finish did you use?


----------



## planepassion

Thanks Don and Chris. After about a half-dozen saw rehabs, I'm starting to get the hang of it. I've developed a liking of panel saws. Maybe it's cuz at 5' 6" the 26" saws can be bit cumbersome for me. I also like this saw because the etching on this saw because it sports lettering with decorative serifs.

Sprevratil,
I sanded 150, 220, 320, 400 then buffed the wood using a clean cloth wheel on my grinder. Then I used three coats of BLO followed by three coats of poly. Normally I apply wax using 0000 steel wood after that, but I read somewhere that it takes a few weeks for poly to cure. So it's ready for the wax treatment.

Note that the finishing process I used follows Andy's formula. I think he mentions it somewhere in his Saw Talk series. Once the wax is added the handle is really pleasing to the touch. Or maybe it was on his The Humble Hand Brace series. Both worth reading I might add.


----------



## SamuelP

Yes, that is Andy's treatment. I like to take notes when I see a fine finish like that. I cannot wait until I have some time to get to work on all of my totes, knobs, handles, etc, etc, etc.


----------



## CharlesAuguste

Nice saw resto, the handle with poly looks a little to shiny for my taste, BLO is a nice touch, shellac etc
poly to me not so much like covering with plastic!


----------



## woodworker59

I want to apologize for not having before pics of these restos, but it was just way to hot and humid to stop and go get the camera once I got started.. 98 and dripping humidity.. not a fit day for man nor beast.. any hows.. 
this is my set of hand drills… the first is a Millers falls #03 small eggbeater, and the second is a
Mohawk- Shelburn breast drill that I believe was also sold by Millers Falls.. I know that they sold egg beaters made by Mohawk but have not found documentation stating that they sold the bigger ones also.. It was painted up originally with the red wheel that is common to Millers.. so anyway..

















this is just a nice handy size for cabinet work, can get into places that even a cordless cant reach.. I love it..


















this Mohawk is nice, with two speeds and the quick speed change its really handy.. I like to use it for my mortises, its great for hogging out the waste with a spade bit on it.. 
thanks for looking… Papa… 
P.S. will make sure I take before pics.. next time.. So sorry… Papa


----------



## planepassion

woodworker 59 those are sweet. I have a Goodell Prat eggbeater that looks a lot like your Millers Falls and I know what you mean about getting into tight places.

CharlesAguste,
Now that the poly has cured, I took the steel wool and wax to it. It knocked down that glossy a lot and looks and feels better. I love the durability of poly and will pick up some matte finish poly soon to try. That might be the option for you.



















However, I'd be interested in hearing what your experience with shellac has been.


----------



## donwilwol

papa, nice job on the drills. I've got a small egg beater with a countersink always set and ready. I use it constantly.

Brad, I'm not a big fan of poly for tool handles , but you sure present a compelling case. That looks great.

Here is a Stanley type 11ish #5 1/2 I've been working on. This is my first Hock blade. Pictures shown is the Hock blade straight out of the package.


----------



## chrisstef

Thos shavings looks Hock-alicious DW.


----------



## lysdexic

That is a replacement tote or repair, Don?


----------



## donwilwol

I'm thinkin' "how impressed would they be if I said repair" (snide grin here)

Its a rosewood replacement. Obviously different rosewood than the knob, bit its the rosewood I happen to have. The original was broke in several places which doesn't show well in the picture. Maybe not completely beyond repair, but pretty close.


----------



## carguy460

Very nice, Don. I must say though that the squared off top on that Hock blade looks out of place to me…but heck, if it cuts like that, who cares!


----------



## donwilwol

yea, the square top isn't my favorite either. I'm hoping it grows on me.


----------



## CharlesAuguste

Brad,
Poly is never an option for me, let say that im more traditional in my woodworking and especially with finishing,
i like the wood to age and want a renewable finish and thats not possible with poly.


----------



## bandit571

I guess this counts as a "Before"









and after a little woodwork, and some hand tool use:









The "After". My "new" front porch steps…


----------



## jumbojack

My brother bought the old family house lived in it for a few years, one of his sons lived in it for a few years and now is going to be rented. Little brother and his boys cleaned the place out and found tons of old tools belonging to our father and grandfather. These four as found and then cleaned up. I was the fortunate recipient of all tools 
uncovered.


----------



## superdav721

eBay $10.00


----------



## donwilwol

I watched your video on that coffin plane Dave. Very nice. I've restored a few, but never grew a real fondness for them. I'm glad this one found a new home.


----------



## superdav721

Thank you.
I found this on ebay 11 dollars


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Jumpojack :
nice score and good job on bringing them back to life 

Dave :
congrat´s with the new compass plane 

I have a coffinsmother that need attion on the sole since it start to look like a compass :-(
now I have to find a way to straighten the sole … I only need to take away 
~~1mm near the mouth and then lesser out to the ends 
have you an idea on a how to

Dennis


----------



## superdav721

Dennis I chalk the whole bottom of the plane. Then I attach a whole sheet of sandpaper to a flat surface. I just did one and if I was going to use it for finish work I would have put the iron and wedge in it while sanding. Notice I sand it one way then flip it around and sand it backwards. Keep applying chalk and checking with a square. The one in this video was bad to one side. You could tell the owner was right handed and leaned hard to that side. 




I hope that helps.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

thanks Dave I thought the same 
I gess one or two cards as shimes glued to the sole in each end 
will do the trick when sanding the sole flat

Dennis


----------



## LeeJ

Wow, nice job.

Lee


----------



## superdav721

Dennis good luck


----------



## bandit571

A $2.14 Handsaw. The before









and after a clean up on the Back Porch Bench









Just a little dovetail saw….


----------



## TechRedneck

Some Flea market finds on Saturday, I decided today was a "shop" day. Hell with the grass!










Older model Craftsman Fillister, knickers were good and had all the parts.










Here she is after spending a night in Evaporust, a little buffing, some paint, and honing. Hopefully it will come in handy for my next project.










Cute little Sargent Block for $5, same treatment as the Fillister.










I'll probably use this one as an Apron plane since it is nice and lite. Most of the time I'll use it to ease the edges of boards before glue-up.










Picked this Garantie Box Jointed Jack for $20. Not much restore on this, a very light pass with a low angle block on the sole, some wax and sharpen the iron.

Sylvain helped me identify the plane on the HPOYD thread, turns out it is not that old and is still made by a company called E.C.E in Germany who specialize in premium wood planes and sells for over $100 U.S. It attacked this hard rough cut oak board and is actually quite a nice scrub plane.

I not only got a great deal, but learned something new in the process.


----------



## donwilwol

I tried photo bucket. No matter what I do they come out to big.

Before
Bedrock 606



















previous owner painted everything (screws included, he used a nice gold colored paint, and the brass, who paints brass?) but he painted right over the rust.

After


----------



## Dennisgrosen

nice work Don 
did you remembered glueing that crack in the frontknop too … )))


----------



## donwilwol

actually Dennis, the knob was split in 3 or 4 places. It was like a fracture. I crammed some glue in and expected to need to turn a new knob. It came out better than expected.


----------



## lysdexic

Don, have any of your tote and knob repairs failed?


----------



## bandit571

The Three amigos went to the shop today. A tear down:









Cleaning with a wire brush, getting them ready for some paint. The little 120 needed a knob:









I usually turn doubles, just in case. Both turned out nice, for Beechwood. A little bit of oil, and on they went. After the paint was dry, and that 120's iron sharpened up, gave a couple of the "Re-habs' a test drive.









Test drive #1 on some Pine 2×2









Test Drive #2. Took my "Brand new' Type 16 Bailey #6 for a test drive as well.









So, now I have more little block planes than I have #5s









Regular Rogues gallery.. as for them #5s…..









They are hiding in the back with the Union 5A…..


----------



## superdav721

Don WOW!
bandit wow X 3
nice work guys.


----------



## carguy460

Don & Bandit - yall boys are my heros…

Don, I really admire your restorations…you give me something to shoot for (someday!)...I love the bare steel color that you end up with…not too shiny, not dull (at all!)...when I grow up, I want to be like you!

Bandit - is it wrong if I say that I love your knobs?

Lysdexic - if one of Don's totes or knob repairs ever fail, I fear that I may cry for days on end…I fear I couldn't "handle" news like that…


----------



## carguy460

I just re-read my last post…I swear I don't have a man-crush with anyone on this site…


----------



## lysdexic

Keep telling yourself that Jason.

Seriously, I've heard that the most common objection about tote repairs is that they fail again. Thus, giving consideration to replacement instead.


----------



## TechRedneck

Jason

I'm there with ya. It's always fun to check in here to see what the masters are up to.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

good work Bandit 

Don nice saving of that knop 
I don´t know if you use an injection neadle as I do
with thinned glue but doing so make no hasle of repairing cracks 
you can see it on my quick tip

Dennis


----------



## donwilwol

Scott. I have had glued repairs fail. When I first started gluing them up. I typically use epoxy now unless the break looks fresh and clean.

Dennis, I don't use an injection needle. (I should try that) I use forced air and a business card.


----------



## SamuelP

How long is the 34?

This one here is 26 1/8 ".

Needs work though.


----------



## donwilwol

the 34 is 30" long


----------



## SamuelP

too short


----------



## donwilwol

Was bought on ebay as a handyman #3



















As I started stripping it and as it unfolded I became a bit confused. Having never had a Handyman before, it took a while to sink it. I have what appears to be a type 5 - #3 with a handyman cap and a type 10 or 11 v shaped logo iron. SWEET.

Just find a cap of the right vintage, and now it looks better.


----------



## Bertha

Man, that tote is beautiful. Nothing wrong with a Frankenplane.


----------



## lysdexic

I bow in respect


----------



## Camero68

Your restoration work is exemplary. Your generosity in sharing this is commendable as well.


----------



## barecycles

Well I finally took this Shelton off the shelf and decided to give it some TLC. Once the rust was removed it did not look too bad. I have not put any kind of finish on the wood, still mulling that over. But, that won't stop me from using it!

Thanks Don, for the forum topic and your restoration examples…you're an inspiration. I've got a few more to do but no time, alas!









Here's the before.









Here's the after.


----------



## Dcase

Don, that Handyman turned out to be a great win for you.. Very cool. Only thing is you still don't have a handyman so now you gotta go get one. 

Barecycles, I have a Shelton plane just like that, just a #5 size… I really like it and its one I use often. Yours cleaned up very well. Good job.


----------



## donwilwol

Well, Dan, I got the handyman cap, that's a start.

barecycles, nice job on the shelton. I've restored a couple and they work pretty well. I dropped a #14 off my upper plane till. That's about 9 feet to a concrete floor. That one didn't fair to well.

Al, while you were gone Dan decided we could not use the word "Frankenplane" any more. I just thought I'd bring you up to speed.


----------



## lysdexic

Don the two irons on my #3's are as such










and such


----------



## bandit571

Handyman H1203 before the clean up









and the ironworks. Red everywhere….









Test drive…

Also have a Stanley Handyman H1204









and a test drive on Beechwood Avenue









Haven't got a H1205, yet.


----------



## b2rtch

Restoring tools is really what I enjoy doing, more than to use them.


----------



## SamuelP

Bandit,

What happened to the tote and knob?


----------



## bandit571

I think mine looked better, but, the old ones are still out in the shop, just in case. Might paint them black…...


----------



## donwilwol

So I won a Millers Falls 14b for a buck on ebay. I really wasn't expecting much, but for a buckand a few dollars shipping, why not.



















So basically what i've done to this is glued a piece of bloodwood to fix the tote, sand and refinish the knob and tote, stuck it in evapo-rust over night and sharpened it.


----------



## SamuelP

Bandit - Gotcha, I did not see the original was missing the front part of the tote. I only saw it on yours. It looked strange to me. Does the tote twist around?


----------



## bandit571

Nope. There is a boss the tote sits on. Same shape as the bottom of the original tote.


----------



## superdav721

Don slow down let the rest of us catch up.
Nice work sir.


----------



## stonedlion

Here's my first crack at a plane restoration; the patient, a Stanley #3, Type 16.

This is how I received it from eBay -










It was every bit as bad as it looks. FUGLY is the word I would use to describe it. The tote was broken and for some reason painted red. And a fine quality job with attention to detail it was; There was red paint in the joint, indicating it was done after the tote break and considering the paint loss, used for a long time in that condition.

I tried to salvage the tote, but I was having a hard time making a good, tight fit. I finally set it aside for another day and bought a replacement tote and knob from eBay. They had been given a thick coat of poly and looked a lot worse than they did online. I sanded them smooth, but not all the way to bare wood, wanting to retain some of the original patina. Finished with a coat of Tried and True BLO.

I am not 100% happy with the results, I think it was a mistake not to go to bare wood. But they will suffice for now. Since this is going to be used in my personal working tool collection, I will probably spring for a Cherry tote and knob from Don W's Time tested Tools before long to dress it up.

Rust removal was achieved with electrolysis. I used progressively finer grits of sandpaper to remove as much of the pitting in the cast iron as I could. I am pleased with the results on the sides, but I have a way to go on the sole. However, it is flat enough to work with.

The cap iron was missing when I bought it, a fact that escaped my attention when I bid on it, but a replacement was easily had from eBay. Although, I gave serious consideration to a replacement cap iron and blade combo from Lee Valley and may yet do that.

The japanning is mostly (90%+) intact and I saw no compelling reason to remove it.

The shiny parts were polished on a buffing wheel.

I haven't had time to get it dialed in completely yet. I was supposed to be waxing the boat for this weekend, not playing with tools. But I did make a couple of test passes on a piece of Fir I had handy.


----------



## b2rtch

Nice work Richard


----------



## donwilwol

A simple clean up/tuneup here, no restore required. Stanley Type 11 #4c.



















After



























A few more pic's here, http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/some-before-and-after-pictures-my-restores-page-2/


----------



## b2rtch

Don W, 
How much do think a #3 Sweet heart similar to yours cost?


----------



## donwilwol

Bert, like mine before or after?


----------



## b2rtch

after


----------



## donwilwol

I have one listed right now on http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/tools-for-sale/ for $30. Its not a sweat heart so I'd probably add $5.


----------



## b2rtch

I ask because about one year ago I bought one, in an antique shop, in excellent condition for $10.00.
The guy who sold it to me knew very exactly what the was doing as he is the one who made me notice that it was a sweet heart, in good condition and at an excellent price.


----------



## donwilwol

sometimes its about the profit and sale not so much the worth. If he paid $5 for it, he doubled his money and it was off his shelf. Sometimes its also about needing the cash flow.


----------



## b2rtch

In any case I had a very good deal


----------



## bandit571

Found a decent paint remover, in a spray can. product from Klean-Strip. Spray it on, go have a Mountain Dew (or whatever takes 15 minutes to do, YMMV) come back and wipe clean. Seems to even clean rust off. Gets right down to bare metal…

Already have done a certain #5 jack plane with it, and cleaned off the KK7, trying it out on the broken #6, to see IF it will disolve all the rust around that re-usable frog.


----------



## bandit571

My KK7, right out of the shipping box









and a look so far at the restore









and a second look









also got a Sargent made #5 cleaned up









Strange painted parts were stripped, wire brushed, and a little tune-up









Found out the black paint on the sides hid a lot of sins









Just cleaning things up….


----------



## SamuelP

This is my first full blown refurb.

I started small.

Before.









And after.









With some shavings.









I believe this is not a Stanley 101, but a knock off from Miller Falls or some such company. I like the plane and size. I wanted to do something different with the screw, though I am not sure I like it.

If anyone is interested I might do a quick blog or put it up as a project.


----------



## chrisstef

DW & the rest of the gang - Do you guys know anythign about Pexto Braces, more specifically the SAMSON line? I was at my uncles yesterday and he always likes to send me home with some randomness from the garage. This time it was a stanley handyman egg beater drill and brace along with the Pexto Samson brace in question. They were made locally in Southington CT is about all the info i have stumbled upon. I couldnt read any patent date on it but ive got it soaking in Evapo in hope that it will be revealed tonight. I ve got that one and a G&P that will take on Brit's restoration some time in the near future.


----------



## Mosquito

Sam, I recently got a Stanley 101 from my grandfather, and I lapped and sharpened the blade, and spent an hour getting the blade in just the right spot… I don't know what it is about that little thing, but it definitely grew on me. I love the little thing and I have no idea why lol


----------



## donwilwol

Chris, other than seeing a reference here and there, I don't know much about Pexto Braces.

Sam/Chris, these little things are great.


----------



## carguy460

Chris, I've got a PEXTO brace but haven't done much research on it…I'm not sure about the Samson part though. I'll do some digging and let you know what I find (If anything!).

I will tell you that Brit will likely be able to rattle off all kinds of info about your brace…he seems to be the SME (Subject Matter Expert) for hand braces.


----------



## donwilwol

S4 before



















After


----------



## donwilwol

From this blog http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/30812


----------



## Bertha

Here's my most recent restoration.
.


----------



## racerglen

Hey !
It's straight ! And no visable RUST ..good job Al.


----------



## superdav721

Al save that metal if they pull it out and make an iron out of it.


----------



## Bertha

Don, I like that subtle crosshatching on the tote.


----------



## TechRedneck

Al

Who is Cindy? (lower right corner of your xray)


----------



## Dcase

Here is a different looking Sargent block plane that I restored the other day… Its smaller then a Stanley #102/103 but larger then a #101… Its a cheap little plane but I like it because the size, look and depth adjustment are all very unique… I cleaned the rust off and stripped it down then gave it a few light coats of paint. Most of the time was spent sharpening the iron and lapping the back… Neat little plane.

Before









After


----------



## bandit571

latest on that bob-tailed KK7:









Just out getting a suntan on that new tote. I worked for over an hour fitting a Stanley style tote, to a Union style base. Iron is off the DE6, since it fits better that the Stanley one.









Cleaned up that old Worth 13.5" jack while I was at it today….









and another look









and the sole


----------



## Bertha

Dan, I love the styling on that little block.


----------



## donwilwol

I had some time in the shop yesterday. Here are 2 Handyman planes I picked up. A #4 and a #5. The #4 was repainted, the #5 is original. I don't repaint the knob and tote very often, but I did on these.

Before


















After


----------



## chrisstef

All right, ive got a question for you restoration junkies out there. I recently aquired a Pexto brace from my Uncle. I went through and read Andy's blog on restoring a bit brace. I got this, no sweat. So between coats of finish i got started.

So i unscrew the chuck and pull out the jaws leaving me with the collar and the chuck. I get to applying naval jelly and realize the the collar and chuck will come apart, a good time to degrease i figure. So i open it up and out pops all the little ball bearings, id say i lost about half of them. So im looking for some suggestions as to fixings my goof here. Can i go out and buy the little balls? Should they encompass the entire race?

Besides that its got great rosewood handles and i think i might have uncovered the patenet date on it.


----------



## donwilwol

I never restored a brace with ball bearing in it. I'd say if they were there, you need them. As for buying them, if you can find ones the same size they should work. I wouldn't even know where to look for such a thing.


----------



## chrisstef

Yea thats kinda where i am at too Don, i woulda guessed it would have had sealed bearings and that was my problem. It looked like miniature carnival when all the balls started flyin everywhere.


----------



## donwilwol

this is were my wife would say "see, if you cleaned your shop more often"


----------



## chrisstef

lol its even worse, i was in the backyard, those little guys are gone forever.


----------



## racerglen

Chris this leaves so many lines and so little time. ;-)

We've got a chain here called B.C. Bearing, they have that sort of stuff, but a yellow pages search or google might help you ?

Good luck !

(did the same thing when I was reworking my old post drill, but a magnet and luck turned all the little *&()()&*) up. )


----------



## BinghamtonEd

I believe Grainger can sell you bearings if you bring one in or know the size. Don't know if you have one locally.


----------



## chrisstef

Thanks Glen, ill take a look into their balls . Sounds like im going to need a very accurate micrometer.

Ed - As a matter of fact there is a Grainger very close by, thanks for the heads up.


----------



## SamuelP

chrisstef - Check out a bike shop. A good bike shop, especially an older one, will have all sizes of ball-bearings with the tools to measure.


----------



## chrisstef

i love this place … thanks for the info Sam.

(Sorry for the temporary hijack DW)


----------



## donwilwol

no problem Chris, I restored a bike Sam, but never needed any new balls. I rode it for a couple of years, now it hangs above the motorcycle.


----------



## ksSlim

Plastic bag over a magnet, drag around in the area of escapees. Plastic bag OVER/Around the magnet makes for easier cleaning of the magnet. Metal filings and "rust dust" from the wire wheel can make a mess of a magnet.


----------



## SamuelP

I was a bike mechanic from HS through college and even a few years ago I did it part time. You would be surprised what you find in an old bike shop. They keep everything.


----------



## superdav721

Before









After



























If you would like to see the process
http://chiselandforge.com/electrolysis-part2/


----------



## donwilwol

nice Dave, I'm looking for a place to hang mine.


----------



## superdav721

Thanks Don. Really thank you.


----------



## planeBill

Concerning the ball bearing replacement, try McMasterCarr.com. They have a little of everything.


----------



## JayT

First completed plane restore. It is a Shelton #9 that was picked up at a flea market. In reality it needed more of a clean up and tune up than a full restore, but I think it came out pretty good.

Before. Someone must have really hated this thing to paint the knob that color.










After.









Evaporust bath and good wire brushing. Sanded knob and tote, then finished with several coats of BLO. Japanning is 90%+, so just needed a good cleaning. The biggest challenge was that someone had used vise-grips to install the stud for the depth adjuster and really bunged up the threads. Some careful use of a thread repair file fixed that. Frog and blade both needed flattened, but overall a straight forward restore.


----------



## planepassion

Just picked up a beauty of a coffin smoother at an Arizona antique mall (visiting family). It was one of those tools that spoke to me, whispering "Take me home with you. We'll be friends for life." I've never seen one in this good of condition and I suspect that it's been in Arizona for decades.










My research suggests that its an early production specimen given the New York Tool CO. stamped on the front. 1865-1875 maybe.

I want to make this a user. If this was you, would you sand off the dirt and grime to reveal the beech underneath? Or would you just clean off the grime, sharpen the blade and use it as is?


----------



## Bertha

Wonderful plane, JayT
.
Brad, I love coffin smoothers and I try to do as little as possible with the body and wedge. If the sole's twisted, you're kind of at a crossroads: do I flatten it and widen the mouth as a consequence. If you're up to the task of boxing it, that may be a consideration. I tend to just back the iron out and pass them a few times over 220 grit. You might be surprised and see the whole of the fore-mouth touch down.
.
I hit mine with beeswax+turpentine and that's about it. I've got one that'll challenge any of my metalbodies and it's much more enjoyable in the hand. Most of mine that don't perform do so as a consequence of the wedge not being space-occupying enough; not placing enough pressure on the iron against the bedding. 
.
Anyhow, it's a great plane. I know you'll have fun with it.


----------



## donwilwol

I have to admin I'm not a coffin plane follower. I have a couple and just do not like the feel. That's not to say I don't think they are cool, after all they are a historic plane. I'm a make 'em look good follower and they must work, even if I'm not going to use them.

So I know I just gave the politician answer with no answer at all. I go as the mood strikes. I like the patina, but it must look good. My last #34 jointer just got a coat of turpentine wax mix with steel wool and a coat of BLO. Others get stripped down, but almost never to bare wood.

JayT I just realized I never said how good that Shelton looked. I like Sheltons. I've had a few. Nice job.


----------



## donwilwol

My 2 handymans

before


















after


----------



## Bertha

Oh yeah, she hunt.


----------



## superdav721

Brad to me if the body of the coffin plane has seen its better days, I do whatever is needed to get it to a user. If I find a mint one I treat it accordingly and leave it in the state it is in. 
On the one you have purchased I would tend to the sole a bit then the iron. IMHO
Good luck and that is one nice plane.


----------



## planepassion

Thanks guys. When you use turpentine and wax, in what proportions and what
at kind of wax? Are you using this to clean the wood..then BLO to condition/finish it?


----------



## donwilwol

beewax or paraffin. Put the was in a jar and cover with turpentine. Ratio doesn't matter, keep it covered but the terpentine will evaporate and you'll need to add more. keep it a consistency you like. I use it first, it fills the wood. I rub it in with steel wool, follow right behind with BLO. When I say right behind, I mean within minutes. Then add additional coats of BLO as needed.


----------



## Bertha

I do exactly what Don does. I put the jar on the windowsill to speed up the dissolve.


----------



## donwilwol

yea, I finally found a decent jar and I broke it. Need to find a few baby food jars.


----------



## dbray45

For beeswax go to your local beekeeper and ask for filtered capping wax.


----------



## bandit571

Simple, go to a sporting goods store and look up "Bert's Bees" Small yellow metal tin, with an ugly, bearded face on it. Pure Bee's wax.

Jars? Around here, it is either Gerber, or Mason. Gerber at the local Walmart/ Savalot/Dollar General. Getthe nastiest ones, and dump them out. Mason Jars? One use would be for this type of thing. Another (better?) use would be to stash a few in the freezer, to pour the beer in AFTER the shop work is done. None better, unless ( Al???) you have a supply of "Mountain Water".


----------



## dbray45

The difference is that I bought 5 lbs. of wax for about $35.00 - in 1 lb. blocks.


----------



## Bertha

I bought a bunch of local blocks. I've got them enveloped up to send out but being laid up, I've been too lazy.


----------



## SamuelP

David - Where did you find beeswax around Damascus?


----------



## bandit571

Ok, here we go… From this mess..









to this almost done..









to a working handplane…









Just some tulip Poplar, first was a face shaving, and now some Moxxon TP from the edge grain









And a look at the tote that was replaced..









While the Poplar was up on the "Bench", a test drive of a Worth #5









Just a nice quiet sunny day around here, getting ready to go to work tonight, 12 hour shift. YUCK!


----------



## dbray45

Beekeepers - ask your local farmers. Anyone that plants 10 or more acres of corn will bring in a beekeeper to pollinate the whole lot at once - keeps the crop growing at the same rate.

We have a few.


----------



## chrisstef

Intereting stuff on the beeswax fellas. Im gonna have to check in at the local farms for some of the good stuff.


----------



## bandit571

Ok, from the Wreck of the DE6:









Clean up some of the old parts









and freed up a frog









To getting a few "new" parts









add a knob, and a proper stanley tote of cherry









To a "Stanley #6c" ready for a coat of paint.


----------



## ksSlim

Nice recovery from a disaster!


----------



## planepassion

Bandit, definitely a nice save buddy. You have more than pleased the tool gods with your offering.

I've been in the market for a #6 for some time, so when I saw one on eBay with a local address I figured I'd save the shipping by picking it up myself. It wasn't without its flaws-more rust than I'm used to seeing, and a tote that looked like a cheap aftermarket one. I hoped it was just the picture but when I picked it up it was as I had suspected.

Here it is fresh from ebay:










And some closeups…










I switched out a spare tote I had for the aftermarket one. Then broke out the dremel, Evaporust and sand paper to deal with the rust. FYI, don't use the steel dremel brush to clean the jappanning because it will damage the surface by leaving gouges. Lesson learned.

After finishing, here's what emerged:










And, of course, can't leave you guys hanging without the money shot:










She can take some really fine shavings, but I won't be using her for that. She's my foreplane (with corrugated bottom), pure and simple. A'fore the 5, 7, and smoothers do their magic.


----------



## Bertha

Brad, you're a star. I've got to admit, I can't believe you're getting those shavings with that iron. It really goes to show that my snobbery about vintage irons might be unwarranted. I love the #6 and it finds a lot of use in my shop. I can't tell you why, really, it's just bigger and wider than the 5, takes wide swaths; I love it. And you've done yours a solid.


----------



## Bertha

I think Bandit might need an award for the most prolific plane guy. You're out of control with your restore volume, Bandit. You have my utter admiration.


----------



## CharlesAuguste

I guess Bertha is not a big fan of vintage iron?


----------



## Bertha

No no no, quite the opposite, Charles. The iron above looks very modern to me, certainly foreign and modern to the plane. Perhaps I'm not seeing the picture correctly? Outside of expensive replacements (IBC, Hock, etc.), I've always considered modern irons of poor quality and not worth the effort to hone. Seeing Brad's shavings, I might have to reconsider that stance. 
.
Regarding vintage irons, I'm a logo snob. I'm not apologizing, I suppose, because I get that rush of nostalgia when I handle a really old Stanley iron (or especially W. Butcher iron in a woodbody). The heft of a 100 year old Japanese iron, whew. The blood pressure is rising, so I should quit


----------



## CharlesAuguste

I understand i was looking at the wrong picture, your right its a newer iron…. expensive replacments like hock etc
are really not needed as its been proven many times that these will not solved your problems, they will hols an edge longer for sure but one must learn to dial in a plane to get the most out of it!


----------



## Bertha

Yeah, you're definitely right, Charles. I know that Paul Sellers, who I respect a great deal, advocates the standard iron. You're also right that the iron is only as good as the edge. I'm still torn about A versus O when it comes to steel. I think I'm leaning toward A2, for reasons you mention. We were discussing the other day the necessity of opening the mouth on a vintage Stanley to accommodate a modern (thick) iron. I just can't see myself going there.


----------



## CharlesAuguste

I totally agree, and Paul Sellers i respect a great deal as well, and by no means im certain that Hocks irons are top quality, it is definately a great choice for a replacement, but it will not solved your problems if the plane is not proparly tuned and the iron not sharp to its potential.Also with you on opening the mouth of a metal plane to accomodate a thicker iron that you just dont need to begin with.


----------



## Bertha

^we, my good Sir, are in total agreement


----------



## bandit571

Simple restore ( for now) of a little "parts plane' that showed up this morning. The "before"









I just added the needed parts..









And the money shots…









Had it a might deep,and after a little adjust ment









Just a lazy Saturday morning. Today, however will be a lot different…..


----------



## planepassion

Bertha,

The iron that came with my #6 is indeed a Stanley. But I agree that it's a later model replacement for the original blade. My guess is that it's from the 1970s.

I've found that the key to getting irons sharp, and I mean, shave-the-hair-off-your-arm-with-no-painful-pulling-sharp, is to use a strope. After using the scary sharp method up to 2000 grit-to polish the back and bevel, I pull the bevel across a leather strope about three times. And I do the same with the flattened back. I don't use any compound.

I can't believe the difference that's made in the sharpness of my irons. And in the shavings I can take. My faith in vintage irons was renewed when I restored my #3 and was able to take gossamer shavings consistently.


----------



## alexdom_89

a little love for craftsman 



i need to make a new handle but for $5 cant beat it


----------



## donwilwol

that craftsman is probably a sargent. Good quality all around. Find a nice piece of wood and make a new knob and tote and its a class act!


----------



## alexdom_89

Were can I get some info for identifying it?


----------



## donwilwol

I've compiled a list of resources http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/24092 but you will find most of them are for Stanley/Bailey and bedrock.

If you look here http://www.brasscityrecords.com/toolworks/graphics/plane%20id.html you'll see you have a Sargent made frog. I know this from past searches that Sargent made a lot of Craftsman planes.

This is the best resource for sargent planes, but its lacking in information http://www.sargent-planes.com/

If you dig anything up I haven't found, let us know.


----------



## donwilwol

Sargent Knuckle (more pic's on my blog page)

Before


















After


----------



## alba

Don

Nice


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

That one going up for sale? Might have a buyer…


----------



## donwilwol

I think that's going to sit beside the 5206 Smitty. Problem is my block plane till is now overflowing.


----------



## cjwillie

You guys have done some nice work restoring all these old tools! It's given me the bug again and now I have a bench full of freshly restored planes. I keep acquiring them from the most unlikely sources either free or super cheap. It's about time to thin the herd but putting a value on some of them is not easy. Is there a guide online somewhere that can help with this? I've been able to find info about most of them but not what they're worth. I know enough to know when I'm getting a deal on them when I buy them but don't want to ask too much or too little when I go to sell them. Thanks and keep posting more pictures. I look forward to seeing them everyday!


----------



## donwilwol

26" 4 tpi. I beleive its a D8

Before
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/39731

After


----------



## planepassion

Don, there's nothing like the feeling you get when you finally add a thumbhole handled D-8 to your tool kit. You did a fine job restoring it. May it bring you years of joy brother.


----------



## donwilwol

This Sargent 206 may quickly become my favorite.

Before


















Now….............


----------



## Bertha

^Don, give me a read on the dimensions of that little guy. He looks like a smallish Stanley in the low 100's but the depth adjuster makes me think he's a bit bigger.


----------



## donwilwol

Al, its the same as a 103. Here they are side by side with a Stanley 103 (on bottom) a Winchester #3093 (middle) and the Sargent 206 (on top)










I need a new cap for the Winchester. It just broke as I was cleaning it. I cleaned the 103 before returning it to the till. Probably should have done that before the picture.


----------



## Bertha

^I was just going to rag on you for that Pointing out that the Sargent was getting more love than the Stanley That's a cool little plane; I can see why you like it.


----------



## donwilwol

I'm happy to say most of my go to block planes are becoming Sargents. The 5206 that started this thread is still my favorite, and I like this one to. Sargent had some good idea's. Calling their bench planes Very Best Made (VBM) wasn't one of them!!


----------



## Bertha

VBM, lol


----------



## donwilwol

Here's the long version, http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/31036

Here's the short version.


----------



## bandit571

Parts plane:









Add some TLC









Add some parts..









And take it for a test drive









Just a cheap. little #4 parts plane….


----------



## carguy460

Very nice, bandit…can I ask how you get the tote and knob so clean so darn fast?? I've been sanding and scraping and sanding some more but still cant get all the stain/dye off of mine!!!


----------



## bandit571

I have a spray stripper, by Klean-Strip, called "premium Stripper" . White foam, but watch out, this stuff will burn you. Spray DOWN WIND. I hung both parts on an old coat hanger. Spray them until everything was covered in white foam. Then just let it hang there for awhile. After all that white stuff was gone, Scrapped the crud off, and then wire brush in my cordless drill. Finally got after it with some fine grit sandpaper. Until I decide on a finish, it will do…


----------



## Bertha

^that stuff burned my ass, bandit. I had the gel version of it and it ate straight through my gloves. I started getting panicky as I ran to the sink because it was getting hotter faster.


----------



## WhoMe

WOHOO!! I'm going to be part of this thread. I just picked up a Type 16 #3 Stanley in, what I feel is excellent shape. Just surface rust with all Japanning, wood parts all in one piece with no cracks, chips and just some worn out finish. I took some before pictures and I have started the restore process. So when I get it finished, I will post the before and after shots. My other planes I inherited that I rehabbed never got the before shots and were in pretty good shape to begin with. But this #3 is gonna be fun, WEEE!!.


----------



## SamuelP

Nice restore Bandit. Looking nice.


----------



## DocBailey

I've been looking for a No. 112 scraper plane for quite a while. In all honesty, this one was 90% cleaning; 10% corrosion removal.
It retains all of it's original japanning and it's full length Sweetheart-era blade. Less than $10.00!

BEFORE:








AFTER:


----------



## superdav721

That is a gem!


----------



## donwilwol

I'm pretty sure $10 for a #112 would be considered steeling. What a great find. And I'd say great restore but the before looks pretty good. You should enjoy that find.


----------



## Dusty56

Beautiful plane !


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Oh, nice #112!


----------



## Bertha

OMG, hold on for a moment….did he just say 112 for $10? That's in the top 10 of desirable planes for me. I feel sick to my stomach (the smiley face means a good sick to my stomach, lol).


----------



## dbray45

Every now and then you come across something that you just can't pass up. I would this would be one of those cases - good job!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

How 'bout this one, Al?


----------



## planepassion

DocBailey, congrats on the 112. That is one sweet plane and in outstanding condition. So as Don said, no restoration points for you!

BTW, where the "Handplane of your Dreams," thread? I was just looking for it and couldn't find it.


----------



## rmoore

A Stanley #75 bull nose rabbet plane. Bought for $3.


----------



## superdav721

A beauty! I fine restoration.


----------



## donwilwol

Ron, beautiful restoration on that #78.

Brad, in case you haven't found your way yet. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/26023

I still find myself scrolling back to look at that #112!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

And a fine pricetag… Nice!


----------



## planepassion

Thanks Don. I favorited it this time. Previously it always came up in the handtool forum listings but for some reason it hasn't been the last day or so.

Rmoore, that's some nice work on the #75. Now, how about some video from you #75 owners showing how to fettle the darn thing, and better still, how to use it! Getting the iron set just right has been a challenge for me…as has been properly sharpening my #80.


----------



## donwilwol

Stanley #18
Before









After


----------



## rmoore

Brad, in all honesty I have yet to sharpen the iron. I did try it out after it was done and it did decent. Here is a link I found on adjusting it. https://www.finetoolj.com/newsletter/stanley/april09.html I will post it on my page when I sharpen it and make some shavings.


----------



## BinghamtonEd

Don, is there a particular reason you replaced the cap on that #18? I have the same plane with the older style cap like you've shown in the first picture. Looks good!


----------



## donwilwol

Ed, its hard to see in the before picture, but it had been welded at the hinge.


----------



## planepassion

rmoore, thanks for the link buddy! I printed it out and set it on my bench to give it a go. Then it will go into a protective sleeve then into a binder of manuals and instructions I keep on all my tools. I'll post pics and experiences in setting it up for use.

Don, that #18 looks like a keeper. I use mine for tasks that go with the grain and it feels great in the hand. For end- and cross-grain tasks I reach for my LA block.


----------



## donwilwol

Brad, this one was sold before I got it. I've already got 4 - #18s. If you look close, the last shot is end grain, so the #18 does well there to. I just got a #65, so I'll be trying that out, but up to now it's been the Sargent 5206 (see original post) for low angle work.


----------



## Bertha

I really like the look of the older knuckles, too. Mine's a bit more recent and I only have one (gasp!).


----------



## donwilwol

Al how do you manage with only one?


----------



## Bertha

lololol. Are the rest jealous of that real shiny one?


----------



## donwilwol

that's the #65 I bought pre-restored. You know I don't usually do shiny. I get distracted by shiny. Its so shiny it almost looks fake. But it works pretty sweet.


----------



## bandit571

Now I feel left out, I've only got five…









Oh well. Might start looking again for little block planes.


----------



## donwilwol

i might have a few more hanging around.


----------



## timpletcher

wow! I love it!


----------



## superdav721

I have 6 or 7, Don you might have a problem.


----------



## donwilwol

and one more on the way. I think my affliction may be intensifying.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Sargent-5307-Block-Plane-with-box-/221082818903?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3379901957&autorefresh=true#ht_500wt_1185


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Oh, that non-chromed look is so what I'm after. Nice score, Don!


----------



## WhoMe

I finally got my Stanley #3 type 16 restored. Here are the before pictures. Lots of rust but all the japanning was there and the wood was in great shape.









Looks like it was used as a paint a scraper









and a 3/4 view









Now the restored shots. Ain't it pretty. Just de-rusted, sole flattened and sanded, blade sharpened and wood refinished. No repainting of any kind. 









look, no more paint









And the money shot with nice cherry shavings









I am pretty happy with this restore…


----------



## WhoMe

Hey Don, I like your block plane group. Especially the early #18 on the far left. I am looking for another one of those myself. I currently have a early #18 that has a Stanley Rule and Bevel blade (makes me think it is a really early one). BUT, it has a crack on one side and a chip on the other side of the sole and there is no plating left on the cap and it is missing the front eccentric adjuster but I am keeping it. It is a really nice user. It came from my wife's grandfather and I think he had it a long time. 
What amazes me is some of the deals people are making when purchasing some of these great planes. I never have that kind of luck.


----------



## bandit571

Working on yet another Sears Craftsman #3 plane. This one was about $10, counting S&H. It even had some racing stripes on the side









and the sole….









Had a lot of rust, everywhere…









Got those handles stripped of their old "finish", and left them bare for awhile. Got all the metal parts cleaned up, time for a test drive..









This Number 3 sized plane is longer than most of my #4 planes, by at least 1/2". Groovy sides too…


----------



## donwilwol

I forgot to take the before pictures, but this is close.

the befors









#93


















#6


















#3


----------



## stonedlion

Here's a Stanley #3, Type 9 I have been working on.

This was a $10 CL find. I was reluctant to even pay that much given the missing parts, but this was the first type 9 I have seen surface locally.

Before:




























A few of the pieces were just about fused with rust. An application of Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil and a few hours to let it seep in solved that issue.

After an electrolysis bath for everything, I stripped what was left of the japanning and repainted with Dupli-Color DE1635. I sanded the sides enough to remove all but the worst of the pitting. The sole did not need much truing.

I am still looking for a period correct blade for it, but I made due with a Union lever cap, iron cap and blade for now. I am hoping to turn up what I need for it at the Mid-West Tool Collectors Association tool meet in Rochester, MN in a couple of weeks.

I borrowed a tote from another #3 long enough to take some test passes and pics.


----------



## Bertha

Way to go, Richard!


----------



## SamuelP

You should find what you need at the MWTCA meet. Lots of great guys there.

Nice Job.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice work Richard. Making a tote should be ok. Finding a blade for a #3 is a little harder. I just got one off ebay.


----------



## stonedlion

Thanks Don. Finding a #3 blade on eBay is not too difficult; finding a blade with the correct stamp is turning out to be harder than I realized.


----------



## Dcase

Richard, nice job on the #3.


----------



## cjwillie

Great job on the #3 Richard. I think the worst they are when I start a restoration, The better I feel when they're done.


----------



## bandit571

Progress on a little plane: This might be an easy restore…









Not too bad, for starters. Knob will need some work, the sole and sides needed some clean-up









and now for the after shots..









not too bad, other side has a"BL" stamp in it…









a trip down Poplar Street's edge grain. Haven't even touched the iron with the stones, just some Emery Cloth. Still need to do that knob…..


----------



## Bertha

Bandit, how many planes are you up to? You can tell me. I won't tell anyone else.


----------



## bandit571

Just picture this…









Counting the newly arrived Dunlap, 20 planes. If there are too many to fit on that table, I thin the herd down a bit.


----------



## bandit571

Also have that knob re-done. Used some stuff in a yellow can…









Applied to the knob, and then gave it a spin with the drill, to burn it in. Works nicely on the metal, as well…


----------



## JayT

Richard, I have a #3 blade & chipbreaker that I think are correct for a type 9. I'm not that knowledgeable on the type differences, so take a look at the photos. They're yours if you want them.


----------



## donwilwol

JayT, I think you are correct. That iron would be found on a type 7, 8 or 9.


----------



## stonedlion

JayT, PM sent. You are correct, that is what I am looking for.


----------



## WhoMe

Just picked up a Type 10 #5 1/2 C for $20 last weekend. It had a braised crack on the left side of the mouth but everything else looked perfect. Well after cleaning things up, the crack was worse than I thought. It will be usable as the sole is flat and all the other parts work but it sure looks ugly. Anyone know where I can find another 5 1/2C sole that is a type 10-12 ? I would prefer to keep it type accurate so one that has the 3 patent dates is desirable. I did find a Type 10 -12 sole on ebay but it is a smooth one. I really want a corrugated one since that is what I bought and rally wanted. 
Any suggestions where I might find one. Heck, I have been looking for a semi junk type 10-12 5 1/2C that has a good sole but have not found a donor yet or lost out on a ebay bid.


----------



## donwilwol

you can check out some of the parts dealers listed here. And just keep a search up on ebay.


----------



## WhoMe

Thanks, will check out your link. Appreciate the help.


----------



## bandit571

While not a handplane restore, this "Little saw came in the other day, needing some TLC..









That is the saw on the right. Not a trick of the camera, this is a BIG saw. Rusty, missing a bolt, Brass needing a polishing. Cost was a whopping $1. Expensive stuff…

Got the dirt, grime, and rust to go away, for awhile. Cleaned the stuff off of the tote. Cleaned up the Brass, and found a spare brass bolt. A look at the results..









The money side…









and the "B" side. It took maybe five strokes to get a sawkerf deep enough for this saw to sit in. A look at the Medallion?









Now the question is, do I try to restore this one???









Of course, it only cost $.50…....


----------



## Dusty56

Why didn't you remove the handle from the blade ? Did you try EvapoRust or anything like it on the blade ?


----------



## bandit571

No EV available for this. Don't like to remove a tote, if I don't have to. Seems there wasn't any etch on this saw, being a WS type of brand. Sandpaper, and emery cloth worked very nicely, since i did it by hand. The only power tool was my cordless drill, to polish the brass with. If you look closely on the non-medallion side of the tote, you will see a hair-line crack. I did not want to make it any bigger, as in "First, do no harm" sort of thing. The crack is just on this side, and i did not want it any bigger.


----------



## Dusty56

I guess if it's going to be a user versus a show piece , no sense worrying about the looks : )


----------



## bandit571

A warranted Superior saw is just that, a user. However, I'm also working on a No. 16 Disston. Tote will need some work, so, off it came..









It had silver paint every where, that crack will need a repair, brass hardware is on the way. Blade was cleaned up, will need to highlight the Disston etch.

Both saws will get a sharpening, as well. Both are sharp as is, just could be better. Both are rip saws. The 16 is a 10tpi, that big guy is an 8tpi.

Well, back to the re-hab. I still have four more to finish up….


----------



## Bertha

JayT, that's my favorite stamp outside of Butcher.


----------



## DocBailey

Well there may be a drought plaguing the country, but as far as old tool hunting goes, this summer has been the best of any I can ever recall. Fast on the heels of my recent 112 find, comes this beauty-didn't even know it was at the bottom of the toolchest I bought, til I got home and started digging.
Like the 112, it didn't need much, but it took about two hours of surgical scraping (as well as the application of a witches brew of chemicals) to loosen and remove what appeared to be construction adhesive from the japanned areas. You can still see a hint of it near the model number. For those who don't know, this is a core box plane. It would be used to make semi-circular cores used in castings.


----------



## Bertha

A 56 with a hotdog? Are you kidding me? I found a 103 at an antique shop once. I want to cry.


----------



## donwilwol

didn't even know it was at the bottom of the toolchest I bought, til I got home and started digging.

I have nothing to add. OMG.


----------



## Bertha

....(sheepishly)....is it for sale?


----------



## superdav721

A treasure in the bottom of a chest.


----------



## bandit571

No. 16/D-16 Handsaw, the "Before"









And the "After"









Might get around to sharpening it , tomorrow…..


----------



## bandit571

Back to handplanes, this time. This came in the mail…









The chipbreaker was on backwards, on the bevel side. Lots of dust, some rust









Someone had even painted the entire frog black, bearing surfaces and all..









spent just over an hour, cleaning things up..









and getting an edge back on a clear-coated (??) iron…









Cost? About $10 counting shipping..


----------



## Bertha




----------



## SamuelP

Al - what did you do to it? It looks great.


----------



## donwilwol

Al, that looks sweeeetttt!!! I love those little guys. I haven't found much use for them other than the look cute siting on the shelf. But hey, cute is good…..


----------



## RGtools

Holy crap I got to the bottom.

So many shiny things. I need coffee, my head is spinning.


----------



## Bertha

Sam, I soaked it in PB blaster for a week, stripped the japaning off the cap and side walls (left the japanning on the top of the body). I lapped the bottom until the front of the mouth fully engaged, sharpened the blade, mirrored back, etc. Waxed her up.
.
It's a fun little plane but it's a bear to setup. You've got to get the iron just right. I can't see myself really using it either, Don. I've just always wanted one for some reason. Mine was expensive, Sweetheart; I think I paid around $40 all said and done. It was one of those impulse Fleabag moments. I buynowed a T&G plane at the same time. I'll need it for the back of my linen press.


----------



## carguy460

Al - I like that little guy! Nice Restore!

Can I ask, what exactly is a linen press? I've seen you talking about this thing since I joined LJ's and I'm clueless as to what it is… Please pardon my ignorance - too much time with Keith Stone, not enough time learning important things!


----------



## Bertha

Jason, I didn't know what it was until I started building mine (before I broke my leg)
.
Something akin to this:
.








.
Only mine's a bit different, made of wormy chestnut. Mine won't be waisted and the feet/plinth will be quite simple. Two raised panels up top a a few incremental drawers below. I think I'm probably going to have to use poplar as a secondary. The thing is BIG and it eats a lot of board-footage.


----------



## carguy460

Thanks, Al…For some reason I had it in my head that it was going to be some device to take the wrinkles out of sheets…the whole press thing got to me!


----------



## Bertha

I'm hoping it irons sheets, because I'm not doing it I plan to use the top for a TV and the bottom for sheets, etc. (guns).


----------



## Mosquito

*I can't see myself really using it either, Don. *

You might be surprised, Al. I didn't think I would use mine much, but I have to say that it's actually quite the fun little plane to use. I like it for knocking corners down. I really liked that the blade is small enough so I could lap the entire thing flat, so it looks brand new, and I got it really sharp. Even does end grain corners with no problems.


----------



## Bertha

^Hmmm, Mos. Maybe I'm jumping too quickly to conclusions. I've got mine setup and sharp as balls right now. If I place it somewhere I'll reach for it, I just might. I'm one of the few guys around here that actually uses the #75. I just like it, so I find reasons to use it


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

A fine finger plane you've got there, Mr. Al. Well done!


----------



## Dcase

I have used my #101 quite a bit. I agree its a bitch to get it set where you want it and forget going back and forth from heavy to fine cuts. You gotta set it and leave it otherwise you will hate the thing. I actually have 3 of them two 101's one set at a fine cut, one at a heavier cut and then one with a tail handle on it.

I make a lot of little keepsake boxes and such and I use the 101 a lot for shaping the little details in the boxes or chamfering the edges. I have also used it with the heavier cut to shape out plane totes and clean up totes/saw handles.

I also use the #75 but thats another one you gotta set it and leave it.


----------



## bandit571

Cheap and rusty…









To not so rusty ( still cheap)









to a new paint job, almost backto "New"!









but still cheap…









Still have to take a file to them teeth, but the cut it sits in took about 10 strokes…..

14" long blade, almost a "Handy Andy" sized toolbox saw. Grandson has claimed it as his….


----------



## bandit571

From a box of Rusty & Crusty parts









Can you say U.G.L.Y.???









To a few cleaned up parts..









To almost done…









A Stanley/Bailey #4, Type 11c


----------



## Bertha

Bandit, you're an animal. Awesome work.
.
*heavier cut to shape out plane totes*
.
Just one of the reasons that Dan is a genius.


----------



## khays

Here is my first one.

Before pics.



























After Pics of the Bailey No 5

The one on the right. I have to varnish the handles.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice looking #5 Kevin. Great job on the restore.


----------



## khays

Thanks Don!


----------



## carguy460

Great job Kevin! You say thats your first one??? Coulda fooled me! My first one didn't turn out NEAR that good! But…I see no shavings…must…have..shavings!


----------



## ksSlim

Ditto great job!


----------



## khays

Yep, that was my first one restored. I'll have to take a pic with the shavings on there for you Jason 
Ty ksSlim!


----------



## khays

A few passes on a rough cherry plank.


----------



## donwilwol

Sargent #15 more here



















After


----------



## Dcase

Don, the knob and tote look amazing, Is that a type of Rosewood?


----------



## donwilwol

Dan, my Sargent Plane Identification Value Guide arrived today. According to the guide, the knob and tote is East India Mahogany.


----------



## khays

Looks great Don! I agree, the knob and tote are beautiful.


----------



## carguy460

Kevin - nice shavings man! I only ask about money shot pics because those little curls of wood really get me going, especially from an old plane! However, I still havent posted pics of my first plane restore making shavings, so my opinion is no longer valid! But seriously - great job on that plane restoration!

Don - as usual, I'm amazed…I like that knob, it looks like an old low style stanley. I'm noticing knob profiles more since I finally own one with the low profile knob…maybe you've already mentioned this, but do you know when that Sargent was made?


----------



## donwilwol

Manufactured from 1910 to 1918.


----------



## carguy460

Thanks, Don…I read more of your posts and realized you already mentioned that. Sorry for the redundant question!


----------



## superdav721

Keven and Don great work


----------



## khays

Thanks Jason, it was a nice sound using that plane after it was restored. There is just something about an old plane being restored and performing like a new one for sure.

Much appreciated Dave, now i'm off to either buy that old craftsman with a corrugated bottom or one with the wood bottom in the next day or so. Can't decide yet which one I want, they are both probably a #3 in stanley's lineup.

Don has taught me a lot along with other LJ's in the past week about hand planes.


----------



## Bertha

Awesome job, Kevin!


----------



## Mosquito

I also posted this on the saws thread, but I figured I'd post it here too



































I haven't done anything to the handle yet. I haven't decided if I will yet or not. I kind of like the character it adds.


----------



## donwilwol

Mos, for the handle try some wax put on with steel wool. It will leave the patina and add some luster

Edit. Looks good by the way


----------



## Bertha

Major sweetness, Mos.


----------



## khays

Ty Bertha!
Looking good Mos. Once the handle is done it will be sweet!!


----------



## Mosquito

Thanks for the tip Don. I might try that sometime. I actually already sanded the original finish off. It's got some dings in it that I won't be able to sand out, though. I was looking at them before I started sanding, and thought it'd keep a little of the character with it. Now I just have to put some sort of finish on it

Thanks Al and Kevin


----------



## donwilwol

Blo would be my choice


----------



## BTKS

If you want the dings out and they are compression or dings made by strikes, you can steam them out. I take a damp cloth and place it on the dent, touch it with a hot clothes iron and the resulting steam expands the compressed fibers. A light sanding to knock off the raised fibers and you are good as new.
Simple and quick. If you want the ding back, just hit it!


----------



## Bertha

If you want the ding back, just hit it!
.
Lol
.
That's a great idea, BTKS. I bought a little travel steamer that kicks out more steam than my, well, big steamer. I might have to try this. 
.
I like the beeswax and turpentine on totes, but the smell really never leaves. The beeswax can also get a bit sticky or tacky over time, which may be good or bad.
.
All in all, I agree with Don, just go linseed oil. I was going to say "just go BLO" but it's become so linguistically dangerous around here lately


----------



## donwilwol

Type 17 Stanley #4

before


















Now


----------



## donwilwol

Stanley #130
Before









And after. I had to turn a knob. I had a piece of wenge just about the right size, so wenge it was.


----------



## Dcase

Ahhh a 130 is on my list but I have never tried hard for one. Looks good Don.


----------



## Bertha

Don's on fire! I think what you did with that 130 is dead-on. Enough, but not too much. Like Dan, I want one badly for no good reason.


----------



## donwilwol

i had a vacation day today Al, got the shop so I can see the floor again, finally got the rest of my lumber stacked, and a few planes clean up and ready for action.

Tomorrow, we're goin pickin!!

I sold the last 130, this one will stay put. A small family photo


----------



## Bertha

Oh yeah, baby. The 130's my favorite of all those. Don't tell the other siblings.
.
Quick hijack: I managed to sort out my stupid network. I just deleted them all and started from scratch. WPA2 over N with all the trickery enabled. Is there something better I should look into? Remote video looks phenomenal. Haven't seen the night. Haven't screwed with the smartphone yet but my shop computer controls the one in the main house perfectly; and vice versa. Maybe technology is cool. I went with these guys but I bought them from my security guys for cheaper.
.
http://www.amazon.com/AirLive-WL-2600CAM-Pan-Tilt-Vision-Camera/dp/B0030BUWP4/ref=pd_sim_sbs_p_9
.
Anyhoo, happy pickin! Get another 1 for a bargain and we'll bargain


----------



## Mosquito




----------



## donwilwol

Mos, that looks sweet


----------



## chrisstef

Nice work on the handle squito. kept it showin its age but not nearly as grimy as it was.


----------



## khays

You got dhcp enabled and restricted to just the minimal devices you need? Might extend the dhcp range to add another 2. MAC address filtering enabled to where only the mac's you control can jump on the network Bertha?

On a side note, I use PFSense for my nat/firewall and Untangle for my content filtering and other apps. Really good setup and it's all free. PFsense doesn't take a big box at all, I think it's running on a 512m machine pentium 4 is all. Untangle takes 1-2 gigs of memory if you want to install quite a few of the apps to control what is filtered and such in your network.

I could talk on this stuff way too much so i'll have to stop now 

kevin


----------



## khays

Oh yeah Don and Mosquito, really nice work there!


----------



## Bertha

Kevin, I'll have to hit you up outside of Don's thread. I'm a famous thread diverter and this one's too cool to trash with my nonsense. But quickly, if I may, I do have DHCP enabled and restricted; that was part of my initial camera setup problem. MAC filtering is enabled, but I have no idea what that means. I'm going to have to look into that firewall. I'm on my smallest box, a lousy netbook. Outside of that, most of my machines are pretty capable. I like to build computers but I don't know crap about software, even less about networking. I appreciate the advice!


----------



## khays

Good idea Bertha! 
mac filtering means for the most part either you deny everything on your network except for whats in the list or you block out everything listed in the tables. With wpa2 and a descent password hash you should be pretty safe. You can start a new thread or pm me with more in depth questions and answers. I'm sure Don will join in since he's got a nice IT background also.


----------



## donwilwol

yep, but I leave the networking to the smart guys. My networking experiences consist of an 8 year old expired ccna. If you want advice from me about a router, you better mean how to sharpen a #71.


----------



## Bertha

*If you want advice from me about a router, you better mean how to sharpen a #71*
.
Outstanding
.
Seeing as how I sharpen my 71 on the side of a wet wheel, I might just ask that question


----------



## khays

You still know some stuff Don, don't be modest


----------



## superdav721

Novell what?
Don mine is about that old as well.


----------



## donwilwol

Novell??? My Novell cert was for 3.0 or something like that. That's back before they went stupid.


----------



## HorizontalMike

I dropped my Fortran cards. What do I do now…?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Move on to COBOL, I suppose…


----------



## khays

LOL, now we're talking some pretty ancient stuff. Sad to say, but I took those classes and hated every one of them  I'll take c++ or c# any day. Could go back to assembly Mike


----------



## khays

Before and After Pics of a plane I was given today in a pawn shop. It was pretty crowded and i waited probably 10 minutes or more just to see if they had any. They had this one and he just gave it to me for my troubles. It had a few numbers on it, something like F 1 and G 2 or something like that under the blade on the body. Nothing else, probably a generic plane, but I restored it anyway. Here it is.














































I had to make a little knob for the front. I will probably make another one that is better or buy one if I knew what the original one was.

Kevin


----------



## mack1946

Outstanding craftmanship. Great work. Labor of Love.


----------



## donwilwol

Free is good and it looks like it's working just fine.


----------



## bandit571

From a box or two of old parts, to a little paint work









To a box in the mail, with some other parts ( about like putting a kit together)









and more parts, after a clean-up/tune-up..









to a plane ready for work…









Just a "Parts Plane" , pieces of other planes that no one wanted…


----------



## Bertha

Lol, Mike, is that a hanging Fortran chad I see? Good to see you, brother.


----------



## HorizontalMike

No hanging chads here, I did the re-count shuffle myself. Needless to say, my program failed to 'compute.' I hated that class (either in 1969 or 1970).

I recently did a restoration of an old 1912 sideboard using some handtools, but mostly powertools, so does THAT count Don?

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/70774#first-new


----------



## Dennisgrosen

thanks Mike that reminded me of the old storing metode …... holes on role of paperband
after using hours to program on an old Ibm and lost if the paper knack :-(

nice work on both the freebee and the kit

Dennis


----------



## donwilwol

It's Show the restoration before and after. To me any restoration is cool. Great job on that piece Mike.

Bandit, parted together a nice user. Why did you paint the wood?


----------



## bandit571

Wood knob was a bit beat up, so i just went with what Stanley did to their later "type" planes. May not be a "blue" bodied plane, or a (shudder) two-tone, but I seem to like the Black & Chrome look….


----------



## khays

ty all. Yeah for a freebie it's working pretty good. LOL, have no idea what kind it is, but it's a user though 

Nice work bandit on the build!


----------



## donwilwol

Kevin, I'd bet it's an unbranded Stanley.


----------



## khays

Ahh, ty Don.


----------



## Bertha

This thread is responsible for disease transmission. It's a friggin public health hazard and I love it.


----------



## bandit571

Not much of a "Before" item. A Stanley #110, with a Sweetheart iron, no less. Lever cap WAS japanned, was being the operative word. Cleaned that mess off, sharpened the iron back up, cleaned the sides and sole up..









Because there is a crack at the mouth area, I still am undecided about keeping the base. Seems to work alright as is, though..


----------



## rtbrmb

What a great forum topic.

Here are some pics of an e-bay purchase from a few years ago I am just getting around to trying to restore it. As of right now all parts, except the body, have gone through the electrolysis bath & wire wheel treatment.

I was hoping some of you could help identify what type this is, I tried following along with the on-line flow charts but can't pin it down. I know it's a Bailey #4, raised ring for knob, made in U.S.A. by knob ring, no patent date, original black jappaning, this frog style was last used in type 15, lever cap does not have kidney shaped hole.

I am leaning towards type 15. The blade, after cleaning has the word "Fulton" across the top and is mushroomed from someone hammering on it, I assume. You can see how bad the rust is on the lever cap. I don't know why the knob & tote were painted orange-they don't even feel like wood underneath the paint. I will have to replace the broken knob.

I will try to remember to post when it's all back together & shaving wood again (hopefully soon).


----------



## bandit571

Hmmm, I had post #666? Maybe i'd better add another, just in case….

Second block plane that came to the house, along with that 110, was a Handyman?? H1249?









All it really needed was a good clean up. Got the sole and sides looking nice and shiny









and worked on the iron a bit









actually work on four irons. Got things back together, and did a "Test Drive"..









Not too hateful… maybe a little fine tuning??









That is a little better. The iron was a handyman iron, but seemed a little thicker than most of the block plane irons I have..


----------



## khays

Oh yeah, much nicer there  Bandit. Don't blame you for posting another one hehe.


----------



## donwilwol

rtbrmb, I'd say a type 15 would be a good guess. It probably had a SW blade originally.

Bandit, your on a block role!!


----------



## Bertha

Bandit, the blue front knob is the breasts.


----------



## dbray45

Good grief - go for a few hours, polish a few fiber ends, test some other fiber and crap - you guys go nuts with 50 posts.
You know its funny - I used to do a lot of networking. I still do networks but they are all fiber and don't use IP addressing. Now I do mostly storage networks and the storage.


----------



## donwilwol

*Sargent #415*. The Sargent# 415 is like the Stanley# 5 1/2 size. (blog here http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2012/09/09/sargent-415/ and here http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/31991

-



















Note the condition of the knob and tote. They obviously needed replacement, and I wanted something other than rosewood. I decided on bloodwood. A lot of Sargent's came with Mahogany, but I didn't have any available. I thought this was a suitable replacement. And Of course I never make one at a time.



















The japanning was shot as well, so it needed to be stripped and repainted. As with the #708 and all my repainting, I used Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint


----------



## ksSlim

Very Nice!


----------



## planepassion

Superb job on the Sargent Don. Are there any differences in the feel of it in use versus say a Stanley?


----------



## donwilwol

It feels a little heavier than the stanley. The stock blades a little thicker.


----------



## Bertha

Insane, Don; simply insane. Heavier b/c there's more beef in the sole, I suspect (side walls). I never needed to see this. It's like smoking crack while mainlining heroin; a gateway of sorts


----------



## donwilwol

Between this the blocks I've gathered and the #708, I'm thinking a few more Sargents are in my future.


----------



## Bertha

Oh God, I need this like all the ailments I already have. Say there's not an 8 equivalent. If there is, just say it anyway.


----------



## donwilwol

That would be a #24 Al and if you find one before me, well, ..... you better beef up security!


----------



## Raymond

Those tools look band new


----------



## Bertha

#24, Wow. Now I know what to get you for Xmas


----------



## donwilwol

Sargent 307 type 2



















And here is what it look like now;


----------



## donwilwol

Sargent 306

Before









Now


----------



## ksSlim

Where can I find information on type and model# of Sargent planes?


----------



## donwilwol

model would be here http://www.sargent-planes.com/ and here http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2012/08/10/sargent-planes-by-the-numberwith-pictures/

As for type, the only place i've found is the Identification and value guide (second edition) by David Heckel. I bought my copy off ebay.


----------



## terryR

Beautiful block planes there, Don! Thanks for the link, too, I'm starting to like these sargents…


----------



## Bertha

I love that curly-Q lateral.


----------



## donwilwol

these two are sharing a blade right now. I still need to find a vintage sargent iron for the 307.


----------



## ksSlim

Thanks for the links Don.
You're an enabler to my growing addiction.


----------



## donwilwol

You're an enabler to my growing addiction.

Just returning the favor


----------



## bandit571

Got too busy on the "Restore" to take a picture or two, but I did get a few of the "After" shots…









Both of these were just sitting around getting rust all over them. Them Hammer is one I made in Industrial Arts class, when I was in HIGH SCHOOL. Does that make it an Antique? Also getting very rusty..









Shined the non-japanned areas back to bare metal, worked on the red-brown blade awhile…









I guess Stanley DID make rulers, afterall. This is a #1221 Defiance by Stanley. Made in USA, at that! Hey, at least I can READ the measurements now.

Three nice additions to the toolbox…


----------



## donwilwol

#4. Every one should have a painted black and white. Even the nuts, bolts, frog and everything else was painted. I think it was house paint to.



















After


----------



## donwilwol

Sargent #207 Block. Needed a new knob, so it got some cherry.


----------



## donwilwol

Another American Boy













































and an American Boy family picture




























Does anybody have information on the American Boy? Who made it? When?


----------



## OnlyJustME

I made my american boy with the help of my wife about 2 years ago.


----------



## donwilwol

How much did the wife have to help?


----------



## OnlyJustME

She put in 9 months of work.


----------



## TechRedneck

Don

Looks like that house paint kept the pitting to a minimum.

I have to make my blasting booth sooner than later.

Great job as always Yoda!


----------



## bandit571

project in the works. Picked up a small chisel, for a dollar bill. Needs a little bit of work…









A little rusty









Handle will need replaced









The iron cleaned up nicely









Size? 16" long, and chops a 7/8" wide slot, in two directions..









That's a Stanley #110 beside this little corner chisel. Money shots will be when I get the handle done, and learn to sharpen the dang thing. Just a dollar chisel…


----------



## barecycles

Here's the Liberty Bell #127 my lovely bride found last weekend. Scraped and BLO'd the wood and painted the hardware. The blade has a date of 1992 on it and is kinda weird so I may try to find another blade at some point. The knob and tote are rather rough but I think I'll leave them alone.




























One thing bothers me about this piece…the base has a bit of a concave depression at the mouth opening. Wondering if I should try to "repair" that or just give it a new base. I really like Don's cherry idea and brass screws

.


----------



## donwilwol

That's a pretty nice liberty bell. I'd try to fix it, just to save the value. Find one nice and rotten for the cherry treatment. Or if you decide to "cherry" it, just keep the base.

Bandit, lets see some money shots. No excuses man.


----------



## bandit571

Money shots for a corner chisel??? Ok. Here we go…









in to some 2x Pine. Still need a handle, with a steel hoop, before i whack on it too much. Edges are looking better..









That is not pitting on that steel, looks more like it was forged. Look at the marbled Steel….


----------



## bandit571

Ok, finally got a handle on this…









The "Before" handle…









and the "After" handle. I think it is Beech, with a "Cherrywood" Gelstain.

Found a name stamp along one edge of this big guy's iron works: "P. S. & W. Co." stamped in an arch. Not sure IF there are other markings.


----------



## donwilwol

Peck, Stow, & Wilcox Company (Pexto)?


----------



## carguy460

Sweet Chisel, bandit! Sounds like what Don said, before they started using the PEXTO brand maybe? I have a PEXTO marked brace, I think the logo is in a circle..can't remember!


----------



## carguy460

OK…I did a little research and I would be willing to bet that there is PEXTO inside of an oval somewhere on the chisel…here is my source - of course, you may already know that…I just got excited, sorry!


----------



## bandit571

Yep, it's a PEXTO chisel. Apparently they made these. I just about got it to chop a square corner, with just a few whacks. It is that point in the corner, if you don't plant it just right, things get wobbly. It needs that point to start the cut. I do have things just about sharpened up. Just some fine honing and it's done. This is one BIG chisel…


----------



## donwilwol

I bought this #5 figuring it was a parts plane. It didn't have a lever cap (the one in the before is one I added) and the rust was pretty bad, so I figured it was toast.



















But with a lot of TLC, I think its back in true form. A type 9 I believe. The blade is pitted bad enough that I can't see what the logo was, but the pitting stops at the cap.


----------



## jamesicus

Please excuse my inattention - in my dotage I miss a lot of things I didn't used too. I posted the following inappropriately as a general submission. Now I realize it rightfully belongs here. So with apologies, here it is:

I spotted the following hand drill being offered for sale at $18 in an online Shopping Mall accompanied by this description:

"Vintage hand drill has a wood handle that unscrews at the end opening to the storage for drill bits in the handle. This is a fun and functional drill that would be great start for a young woodworker."





































Whenever I see a "grungy" Millers Falls No. 2 hand drill (which this obviously was) with the adjustable friction roller offered for sale I always check it out for I know it is pre- World War II production and may be a desirable early type. So I purchased this one.

In this instance I sensed that the failure of the orange paint to adhere to the wood surfaces very well was because the wood was Brazilian rosewood or cocobolo - both notoriously difficult to paint - even with very careful preparation - due to their dense and oily surfaces.

So it was off to my local Ace hardware store for advice on paint stripper selection and use. The paint department lady in charge has proven to be very knowledgeable in the past and I trusted her advice implicitly.

I had not purchased any paint stripper for many years and found the voluminous selection quite daunting. Without hesitation the paint lady recommended the product depicted below - "fast, easy to use and absolutely effective" she asserted - "just follow the directions on the can and the paint will be removed in a jiffy". And so, armed with a can of this magical potion, a pair of chemical resistant rubber gloves and a stiff nylon brush I sallied forth confident and anticipating about an hour or so of stripping (paint that is).









*Klean-Strip KS-3 PREMIUM STRIPPER*

Then an unexpected, but pleasant, surprise! I applied the stripper to all the painted surfaces by wiping it on using a rag. I waited a few minutes as prescribed by the stripper instructions, then wiped it off, again using the rag-I didn't even need to use the stiff bristle brush. Presto-all of the paint came off with very little rubbing. All that remained was to remove the paint residue from the nooks and crannies and that I did using a pointed wooden stick dipped in stripper. I then rinsed off the stripper residue per the instructions. Total time required to strip off the paint-less than thirty minutes!

All that was needed to restore the original beauty of the wood surfaces was a brisk rub-down using a soft dry rag. The surfaces soon took on that warm soft glow of polished exotic hardwood. And now another pleasant surprise-the main handle and crank handle were Rose wood, with the side handle being stained hard wood. Surely this couldn't be an early, circa 1910, N0. 2 drill marked with the Millers Falls five pointed star trade mark? ( George Langford's Group 2J, Type F)-a choice item indeed.





































The answer came when I carefully removed the accumulated grime and light surface rust from the metal surfaces (mostly using 00000 steel wool dipped in oil). Revealed on the crank was:










After application of light machine oil to the appropriate lubrication points and adjusting the friction roller the drill runs freely and smoothly.

This hand drill now reflects the condition I cherish so much-a tool well used that reflects generally good care and attention. I derive great satisfaction from using tools that still function well after the passage of many years. I greatly admire the patina on old tools - the wood and metal surfaces that have grown lovely through long time handling and use.

James


----------



## OnlyJustME

Beautiful piece of machinery you have there.


----------



## donwilwol

James, that MF came out great. I never knew the handle on those were hollow. I have to go check mine now!!


----------



## BTKS

I have neglected to add anything to this thread because I forgot I had a photobucket account. I hate to think how things will get when I'm really old!
I've fixed up a few things in the last few months. Most of what I do is cleanup and tune. I focus on having users and don't spend the money on collectors!
Here is a chipped #3. I don't know how to date it, but the gentleman selling the plane is quite knowledgeable and estimated it around the turn of the century.

























The cleaned up shots.









Here you can see the front left chip in the casting.









AND, THE MONEY SHOT!!!!!
http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc424/BTKS/005.jpg!
Thanks for looking. I stress, these are simply cleaned and made ready for use. I'm really enjoying the reawakening of hand tool use.
BTKS


----------



## BTKS

Okay, I'm a complete boob! I obviously don't know how to size a photo into the thread. My appologies for the misscropped shots. They don't do the overall picture justice. Most of my photography doesn't!!!


----------



## donwilwol

I think your #3 is older than the turn of the century. I'd say its a type 5 or 6. A few more pic's and I may be able to tell for sure. If your iron is original its a type 6. That dates it between 1889 and 1892. I have the same problem with photobucket. Sizing is a bitch. I post straight from my computer.


----------



## BTKS

The blade is stamped, STANLEY PAT. APL.19, 92 The chip breaker is stamped between the large opening in the breaker and the rise near the bottom end. L. BAILEY'S in an arch with PATENT in the middle and DEC 24, 1869. No adjusting screw on the back of the frog and the knob comes down over the thread post with no visible rise.
Thanks for the help.

Oh, the lateral has STANLEY printed on it with PAT 2 8 76 then two more lines of more numbers I can't quite make out. Looks like 1c2194 then 72488 on the next line. This is all on the lateral adjustment.


----------



## BTKS

It didn't take much research but here is a try at direct posting from the hard drive.


----------



## donwilwol

What is inscribed inside the brass adjustment knob.


----------



## BTKS

It didn't take much research but here is a try at direct posting from the hard drive.


----------



## BTKS

I forgot all about seeing that inscription.
It says, BAILEY OR BAILEY'S PATENT, then in the opposite direction, AUG 31 1856 AUG 6 1867


----------



## donwilwol

If the lat adjuster is disk shaped were it goes into the iron its a type 6 (my guess) if its a flat bar like bend its a type 5.

If its a type 5 its original iron should have the hole for the cap screw on top of the groove.


----------



## jamesicus

Don, you wrote:

"James, that MF came out great. I never knew the handle on those were hollow. I have to go check mine now!"

Thanks, Don. The Model 2B had a solid main handle: http://oldtoolheaven.com/hand_drills/drill2.htm

James


----------



## donwilwol

Aw man. Don't get me started on egg beaters


----------



## OnlyJustME

mmmmmmmmmm eggs


----------



## jamesicus

BKTS wrote:

"Okay, I'm a complete boob! I obviously don't know how to size a photo into the thread. My appologies for the misscropped shots. They don't do the overall picture justice. Most of my photography doesn't!!!"

Many people have their own favorite photo Editors. My own is Irfanview

http://www.irfanview.com/

It is a free download and very easy to use. Any idiot can use it-I can! I have been using it for several years now and during that time have manipulated thousands of images-re-sizing, cropping, rotating, brightening. sharpening …....... and so on. If you do try Irfanview, BKTS, you can take advantage of my experience in it's use-I will be only too happy to assist you in getting it up and running.

James


----------



## BTKS

jamesicus: Thanks for the link and the assistance offer. The downloading from the hard drive seems to be working okay but this new process may just be the application I need.

Don W: The lateral adjust is straight with a disk rivited on top of it to engage the blade. I assume it is a type 6. What does that mean in age and years of production? I have noticed I cannot get near the shine or gleem to the metal as I have on the others I've worked on. I have, I think a 103, I rehabed and it shined like a diamond. This plane just wouldn't shine. It also seemed to have small bubbles in the casting. Nothing terrible just more than I'm acustomed to seeing in older Stanley products. 
Overall, it works and cuts really nice. Very little backlash in the adjustment and nice shavings in ash.
Later, BTKS


----------



## donwilwol

a type 6 was made from 1889 to 1892.


----------



## rtbrmb

Here are some before & after shots of a Stanley #71 (type 6 1902-1905) I picked up from e-bay a few years back.

I started with an electrolysis bath then sandblasted after I found most of the nickel plating was gone or coming off. I painted it with some Krylon hammered paint & chucked the knobs up in the drill press for light sanding & several coats of shellac & finished w/wax.

I spent quite a bit of time, & used several sheets of sandpaper, to get rid of some of the small pitting & scratches in the sole. I started w/60 grit & worked my way up to 2000 automotive wet/dry. Also sharpened the blade but didn't need to go down as far as 60 grit.

I have learned a lot from this one topic. Thanks again.


----------



## donwilwol

a fine job on that Stanley #71 for sure.


----------



## rtbrmb

here are some after shots from post #667. I had to borrow a tote & knob from another #4 waiting to be refurbished. I am still a novice at this-so after working on the #71 above I think I am going to do some more work on the sole-but it does cut pretty well.

I have some cherry laying around that I will try to custom make a tote & knob sometime in the near future.

Thanks.


----------



## Bertha

James, that is fantastic. I've used that nasty stripper before. That stuff will ruin you, but it sure works well.


----------



## barecycles

Just as full disclosure to show how dumb I really am, I thought I'd update my Liberty Bell 127. I had mentioned I thought the blade had been replaced with a newer one because I thought I read a 1992 date on it. Well, upon further inspection and cleaning the blade really says PAT. APL 19, 92. So I guess that is actually 1892.


----------



## Bertha

Yep, that's the desirable iron for sure.


----------



## shampeon

Millers Falls 67, bought off the 'bay for cheap because it was a bit of a rusty basket case, and I'm something of an MF fanatic.

























I derusted the body & metal parts, repainted the body with Rustoleum Hammered Black, sanded and refinished the knobs with walnut Danish oil and tinted shellac, and sharpened the iron.


----------



## donwilwol

That Milles Falls looks much better!!


----------



## ksSlim

Just picked up a DE (Diamond Edge) plane, at least the tote and iron had that logo. 22" long with a high knob.
Frog "looks" like a Sargent with the folded lat adjust. Stanley on the cap iron. After I remove some of the silver aluminum paint from the body, I may be able to see any other markings.

The quesstion is: who made DE planes. Or was Shapeigh like Sears, and it varied year to year?


----------



## donwilwol

Slim, here is some of my notes, Diamond Edge - Diamond Edge was a brand name used by the Shapliegh Hardware Co. Many were made by Sargent but other manufacturers may have made them as well. The easiest way is determine a plane's maker is to remove the frog and look at the way the frog mates to the plane.

http://www.thckk.org/history/shapleigh-history.pdf
http://www.maineantiquedigest.com/articles_archive/articles/dec06/simmons1206.htm


----------



## Bertha

Wow, Shamp, those knobs were gems in the rough! I like how MF branded it across the bridge. That's a cool look.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I do like those hammered paint finishes on tools. Nice woodwork, too, on that #71 and MF router above. And that Stanley lever cap has to be the most chewed and beaten as I've ever seen…


----------



## Bertha

Smit, that lever cap is just a really small, coarse gent's saw 
.
Smit, I might have a bead on some tools that may speak to you. See my post in HPOYD. Let me know what's on your want list and I'll forward it to my friend.


----------



## bandit571

Won two planes off of ebay. When they showed up at the house the other day..









They looked a little worse for wear. Got to cleaning things up..









and had about 10% japanning left of the #6. The block has some missing as well. Time for a Paint& Finish









Rustoleum Black on the painted parts, BLO on the un-painted wood parts. Still working on "Sharp". Tote may get a re-working, but it is good enough for now. Spent almost as much for a can of BLO as i did for these two planes.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

and thjey are ready for 100 years more 

Dennis


----------



## donwilwol

Bandit, the plane was probably made by or made for Seth Savage of Middletown, CT. They were a tool company that manufactured boxwood rulers primarily. Stanley bought them in 1855, to improve the Stanley ruler line.

I can't find any evidence that they made planes, but can't find any evidence they didn't either.


----------



## Stephenw

Before…










After…


----------



## lysdexic

Stephen,
There is something different about that "after" bandsaw…...but I cant quite figure it out. Hmmmm. Wait. Oh, I got. You put some wheels on it.


----------



## donwilwol

I've got that same green monster. I put wheels on it to. Mine is still green. Nice restore. I like the new switch!


----------



## Dennisgrosen

nice upgrade with the blade gard / rollers and a new stopswitch 

Dennis


----------



## bandit571

A Stanley #33, before..









$1, at a yard sale.. And now the "After"..









with a "Money Shot" on some Poplar Edge grain..









Not too bad?


----------



## Dennisgrosen

what a buty you have got there 
I´ll give you two $ and pay the fraight ..

thanks for sharing the " not so bad " 

Dennis


----------



## donwilwol

My Sargent #710 as found.









And now


----------



## lysdexic

Wonderful Don


----------



## racerglen

AAAhhhh..
Thats beautiful !
Don, what wood did you use ?

The tote and knob look different ?


----------



## donwilwol

its bloodwood, same as this one









http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2012/09/09/sargent-415/


----------



## donwilwol

rainy Sunday restore. I paid $21 for this including shipping on ebay.










And after some cleanup, sharpening and bubinga knob and tote made. Still original japanning.


----------



## terryR

$21…awesome!
.


----------



## CharlesAuguste

That is one superb looking plane Don !


----------



## superdav721

Don they just get better and better.
You sir need to start a refurbish service.


----------



## Bertha

Lord, lordy B on that Rock. This is one you should sell (after I rebound from my gun buying tear).


----------



## bandit571

Mister Seth Savage, your plane is ready….









Black walnut, with a BLO finish.


----------



## superdav721

Nice Bandit!


----------



## bandit571

As found, laying in the yard at a yard sale…









Black Paint, and some BLO on the wood body..









and the BLO looks..









Didn't like those old, cracked handles, so….









A second coat of BLO has changed that "blonde" colour to a more respectable light brown. Guess I'll need to post one of that???


----------



## JayT

Got a little shop time in today and finished up a Sargent 418 that was started quite a while back

Before. Check out the wonderful square head bolt (with nut on the back of the frog) that is holding the lever cap.










After. The body was stripped, sandblasted and repainted with Rustoleum Hammered Black-everything else got an Evaporust bath before being wire brushed. Knob and tote were sanded to bare wood and finished with BLO.


----------



## superdav721




----------



## AnthonyReed

Nicely done JayT.

I loved the video Dave. Great restore.


----------



## superdav721

Thank you.


----------



## Bertha

OMG Jay, she's gorgeous. Coffins are "she's" to me 
.


----------



## JayT

Al, I'd love to take credit for the coffin, because it is gorgeous, but that one is Dave's work.


----------



## Bertha

OMG, I'm sorry Dave and JayT. My total bad. Dave, Dave, you bad man. Astonishing.


----------



## superdav721

JayT does wonderful work as well along with every one here.
Its all good Al.
You guys know me the only metal planes I own are block planes, then I found this little guy.


----------



## Bertha

You found a winner, Dave.


----------



## superdav721

I love it.


----------



## ksSlim

Nice job on the little coffin.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job on that sargent JayT.

Dave, you're making me rethink my need for some more coffin planes.

Al, get some sleep.


----------



## superdav721

ksSlim and Don
Thanks Guys.
Don I love them. Wood on wood, you cant beat the feel.


----------



## JayT

Also posted in the HPOYD thread.

Before










After




























Bedrock type 4 606C. Body was shocked, stripped, sandblasted and then japanned. Yes, japanned, not painted. Everything else steel and iron got an Evaporust bath. The frog was japanned and flattened, while the other parts got wire brushed and polished, as needed. Knob was stripped and finished with BLO, while the tote just got a wax job applied with steel wool. Finally the sole and sides were flattened to 240grit.


----------



## donwilwol

I liked it over there to. Its lookin sweet for sure.


----------



## Handtooler

When Japanning do you use Ford black engine enamel? I read someone's thred that's the closest to original you you can find. What say ye?

Great Job on a beautiful Bedrock.


----------



## JayT

Thanks Don & Russell.

No, it's not spray paint, it is a (hopefully) historically faithful rendition of the original japanning used by Stanley. I'm sure there are differences, due to my one at a time approach vs. Stanley's industrial processed, but I was trying to reproduced the original finish as best as I was able while keeping costs down. I started a blog about my japanning process, if you are interested.


----------



## terryR

Looks the same on this thread, Jay, very nice!

Tons of work to be proud of there…
.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Jay no doubt you did a good restoring


----------



## bandit571

A different kind of Handyman…the before









and the after shot..









with the proper black and red paint scheme for a Stanley Handyman #133H "YANKEE" screwdriver. May need a second coat on the red, though.


----------



## superdav721

Man that is very nice.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Geez Bandit, I use mine too much to put it down for that long! The same goes for my Yankee #130B. Surely the two most used tools in my shop! I did manage to pick up the extra bit sets online at Lee Valley. I have had these drivers for +40yr and got them from my father. And with all the new bits, I'm good for a lifetime. 

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=66021&cat=1,43411,43417&ap=2









http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=57809&cat=51&ap=1


----------



## SamuelP

Nice Job Bandit, I just got one of those and have not messed with t at all yet.

Thanks for the link Mike, I didn't realize they were so cheap.


----------



## bandit571

A $2 Barn Sale find:









Was just a might dirty under the lid…









Seems this was a Stanley #220 remade into a Sears Craftsman 187.37051 Sears logo was a "crown" at the time. Ugly greenish colour, too. Cleaned it up, and found a Stanley knob for the front end. Couldn't find a true match for the ugly green paint, so I went back to the Stanley colour instead.









Since the iron needed very little work to sharpen, a Money Shot was next to do. Used some poplar, and did an edge grain trip or two…









Just a $2 block plane find….


----------



## arco21

This is so cool, I love seeing those tools come to life!


----------



## superdav721

Ah what a pretty little block plane.


----------



## donwilwol

Type 1 Millers Falls #9

Before

















And today


----------



## OnlyJustME

World of difference. Do you do saws yet?


----------



## lysdexic

Don is that equivalent to a #4?


----------



## donwilwol

http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/series/4116


----------



## donwilwol

Yes, its a #4 size.


----------



## terryR

Another great job, Don! From rust to a very solid user…love it!
.


----------



## donwilwol

One more quicky. All original japanning, orange and wood finish.

I can't find the before pic! So here's the after.


----------



## JayT

I'm calling these Before and almost after. Both need a bit more work. These both got the same treatment as the 606C posted above.

Bedrock Type 4 608

Before










Now. The blade was so pitted, I'm not sure it will be salvageable. When I have more time it'll get worked over &/or replaced.



















Type 4 605C

Before (but after electrolysis to remove a LOT of rust)










Now. Obviously still needs a tote repair/replacement. The blade and breaker are not original, either, but they will be fine for a user unless I find a screaming good deal on a correct set.


----------



## donwilwol

They look great JayT.


----------



## Deycart

I have a questions for you guys. I have been following this thread for a while and it seams most of you like to use the duplicolor automotive paint to redo the beds. I have used it on numerous planes, but it seams that it really does not stand up to regular use. I don't know if its just me or what. Is there a secret technique to applying the paint?

Well I bought a powder coating system and have decided to give it a try. I have other projects besides planes that need a really durable coating. I'll let you guys know how it comes out. Just waiting for the paint and my IR heater to come in.


----------



## lysdexic

JayT did those getting japanning?


----------



## JayT

Yes, they got the same japanning as the 606 and what I am blogging about.


----------



## terryR

JayT, how bad does your recipe smell while cooking? Will my wife kick me out of the house? 

Oh yeah…nice restores!!!


----------



## bandit571

A different kind of Fulton Plane: A few "Before" shots..









A little rusty??









But I think I can fix that..









A look at the sides of the base..









Just a $10 plane….









and a morning's worth of work.


----------



## JayT

That Fulton turned out nice, bandit.


----------



## OnlyJustME

That Bandit did it again.


----------



## donwilwol

Deycart, what exactly is happening to the finish? Other than environmental elements what comes in contact with the finished parts?


----------



## Deycart

The finish either just comes off or I get a weird dulling. They have come in contact with soap, water, wd40, past wax, and mineral oil.


----------



## donwilwol

Do you strip the old finish first?


----------



## Deycart

Yes, I strip it down remove the rust and clean it with alcohol.


----------



## donwilwol

Hmmm, never had any of the issues.


----------



## OnlyJustME

Do you use a primer?


----------



## donwilwol

I do use a primer, but I've done it both ways with equal results.


----------



## Deycart

I have done both and same result. I wonder if it's the climate. I'm in Washington state near the coast.


----------



## OnlyJustME

could try a little heat to bake it on?


----------



## Bertha

This thread is so strong that it's painful. Too much great work to keep track of.


----------



## donwilwol

How about some cherry on top a #6 restore.

Before









At noon









And now


----------



## Bertha

Don, how are you treating your brass on those planes? I use a Foredom with brushes and pads and it's a drag. Is there a trick I'm missing? You're just showing off with the totes. Are they a bit fatter than Stanleys? I've got several #4's dialed in and yours (the cherry one) is my favorite. Just feels great in my hand, regardless of the sentimentality. I like it better than my LN.


----------



## donwilwol

I do leave them a bit thicker. They feel better in my hands. (wait, lets say the plane handles better when using it)

For the brass, I first soak it in lemon joice. Then I use a soft wire wheel on the back side and outside. After soaking with lemon you just need to touch it to the wheel so it doesn't cut the ferrals (ridges, bumps whatever they are called)

For the inside I chuck it in the drill press and have at it with a strip of 800 grit sand paper.

Edit: the brass nuts just get hit with the buffing wheel.


----------



## bandit571

For Brass hardware…









even saw bolts, I just chuck them up in to the drill, and spin the part against a purple scratch pad. Shines them mirror bright…









IF the part can be inserted in to the drill chuck, spin away.

Being "Old Army", maybe I should go out and buy some Brasso???


----------



## Bertha

Thanks guys! I didn't know about the lemon juice. I guess I could chuck them into the lathe as well; I have some plastic jaws for my chuck. 
.
And Don, if I can get my e-mail working, I want to take a picture of a 25.06 I just bought. It'll make you cry.


----------



## superdav721

I love chuckin a screw and makin her shine.


----------



## donwilwol

Buffing wheel works better for the screws. It takes the drill press chuck to chuck the brass adjuster. I've been meaning to get a chuck for my lath but I'm not sure it will work on my old crasftman. I need to upgrade the lathe one of these days.


----------



## donwilwol

and for the rest of the story


----------



## bandit571

Just a "Before", for now….









A Shelton all steel #118 wannabe??









Might be fun to de-rust it??









The sides and sole cleaned up nice, though


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

A Stanley #50 beading plane. Cleanup with Evaporust, and added a new rod.

Before:










After:


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty, youre on a tear brother. You did well at the auction.


----------



## donwilwol

Well, I've been looking for a 118 for a while but I have to admit I never even thought about a #50 until your post today Smit. Great job on both.


----------



## Bertha

Smit, awesome; Don, you need one. Real lightweight and low profile. You can really see what you're doing. I love mine but I'm iron light.


----------



## lysdexic

I find myself just gazing upon the #50.


----------



## lysdexic

Don, why is there a bottle of oil leaning against your drill press? At least that is how it appears.


----------



## lysdexic

Don, another question. Why seven cherry totes? Do you have a need for them or are you just batching them out?

Another question, the bottom screw in the totes, is that prominent or not screwed in all the way?

Oh, and another question. You like hand planes and the restoration. You seem to like a little metal work. God knows you create exceptional totes. Heck, you have even experimented with a retrofit jack infill plane. Hmmmmm. Have you ever considered making your own line of boutique hand planes? If so, you might have a few customers here.


----------



## donwilwol

why is there a bottle of oil leaning against your drill press 
I keep some cutting oil with a small brush in it. I've cut the side off so its an open container..

I think its actually a frog screw. Its the one that was in it.

Heck, you have even experimented with a retrofit jack infill plane. Hmmmmm. Have you ever considered making your own line of boutique hand planes? If so, you might have a few customers here.
Define considered. I've thought about it. I'm not sure I need another hobby. That's one hell of a compliment though.


----------



## donwilwol

oh, no reason for the 7 totes. I needed one, didn't have any and never just make one.


----------



## Bertha

ScottyB, yo, are you serious about the #50? I know a guy. Full irons. PM.


----------



## bandit571

A Craftsman #220???









After a clean-up, new paint job, and a new knob…


----------



## bandit571

Fulton from West Germany??









Cleaned and polished back up to almost like new…


----------



## Charlie5791

I posted parts of this on another thread, but this one seems appropriate. This is my very first plane clean-up so be gentle with me 

This is how it looked when it arrived.










And after some cleaning.




























I will be doing more, but I spent the most time getting the iron back into good condition as this is to be a user, not a display piece. I'm basically going to take it apart again and clean up screws and the tote and knob, but right now it makes very nice shavings


----------



## donwilwol

that's looking good Charlie.

Bandit, that fulton is pretty cool, even with the red/orange paint.


----------



## jap

nice plane Charlie


----------



## MartiTx

Normally I wouldn't have a before picture, but I found this in an old shed and thought I'd better take a picture of each step as I took it apart so I could see how to put it back together.


----------



## superdav721

Nice work guys. Keep bringing them back.


----------



## Bertha

OMG, Charlie; it's fabulous. You guys have to stop it with the MF and Sargents. I've already got a problem with the Stanleys!


----------



## bandit571

Take your pick??









A Union #4G, A Craftsman #4H ( Sargent??) and a Stanley #4 smooth bottom.


----------



## bandit571

A "before"









During the clean-up stage..









And all finished up..









and molesting some defenseless pine









Plane made by Shelton…


----------



## jap

bandit - nice job on the shelton


----------



## OnlyJustME

Looking good mr bandit.

So which #4 do you like to use most?


----------



## bandit571

hard to chose, seems I do have a few…









Maybe an oldie??









or a brand new frankenplane using stanley parts.









Seem to like the Handyman plane, though..


----------



## bandit571

The Craftsman #4H is all finished up, the "before" shot..









and the back half..









and now, all shined up, with new Black Walnut handles…









and a money shot….









Might be a Stanley, or maybe a Sargent made plane…..


----------



## SamuelP

A repaired number two.

Before:



























After:



























Just a dip in evaporust and some light cleaning on the hardware.

The tote took a little time and some deep cleaning but looks much better than the job that was done before.

The brass fix on the right side is solid and done well.

I like this little plane but do not have a practical use for it. If someone is interested, let me know.

I also have a parts number 2 that I just had Don W make a set of bloodwood tote and knob for so I really should not keep two.


----------



## superdav721

Very nice.


----------



## donwilwol

Looks good Sam. What's wrong with keeping 2?


----------



## SamuelP

Here is a better shot of the repair and a better shot up close.

Sorry about the pictures from my phone. Seems like the quality has gone down a bit recently.




























Thank you Dave.

Don W - I have two little girls, so one #2 will suite me just fine.


----------



## donwilwol

It still looks good Sam. I hear you about raising kids. Glad my kids college bills are finally paid for. I've already started a college fund for the grand kids. I can't even image what it will cost buy the time they get there.


----------



## SamuelP

Both my daughters already have college funds started, straight from my paycheck every week.

I paid for my own college (still paying), I do not want them to pay as much and work as much as I did.


----------



## gepatino

Here's my humble colaboration. 
This is the first time I restore something, and my fourth woodwork-related project.

I've found an old wooden plane in a toolbox that belonged to my wife's grandfather, and decided to restore it and use it. I've also grab a whole collection of files of all sizes, but haven't cleaned them yet.

One question to the pro restorers: How do you clean the rust from the metal parts without scratching? I've found that using electrolysis is pretty easy and the metal parts are not affected, but maybe there's another way.

well… to the pics, hope you like it:


----------



## carguy460

Gepatino - that is an awesome plane! And great job on the restore! I really like the logo on the iron…is that French?

I'm not a pro, but I personally use electrolysis for most of my restorations, and Evaporust for the smaller parts. I think the Evaporust works really well, but I'm too cheap to buy enough of it to do an entire plane body.

Great job again! Man that plane is sweet…


----------



## donwilwol

gepatino, if all your projects come out that nice, you're well on your way.

If you look at my blog I list several ways to get rid of rust. http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/bench-plane-restore-the-dw-way/

I use them all, depending on time, severity and mood.


----------



## CL810

Bedrock 608 that will be a user. Lost the before picture but here is one after the initial scrub down.










And here is the after.


----------



## donwilwol

nice bedrock. great restore!


----------



## gepatino

carguy460: Yes, the brand is french as far I can tell. It seems to be that they flooded our market (I live in Argentina) at the begining of the 20th century with their tools, and you can find these kind of planes quite easily.

There's no way to know the exact date of this plane since the owner passed away in the 90s, but I guess it could be from the 30's or 40's.

Update: Acording to this page [1], Peugeot was renamed, splited and rejoined several times. The brand Peugeot Freres with the lion on the arrow was used between 1951 and 1965, so my guess was quite offset.

Update 2: OMG… I have to reread that page carefully, it was between 1851 and 1865, could it be more than a century old?

[1] http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworking/forum/archives_handtools.pl/bid/3001/md/read/id/144125/sbj/not-a-scrub-maybe-not-a-peugeot-fr-res/

Don W: Thanks for the link. I've reading you blog this weekend and you restoration skills are awesome. And thanks for the comments on the other post about finishing.


----------



## Bertha

Gepatino, OMG, she's gorgeous!!!
.
CL180, I'd love to know what "and initial scrubdown" means to you!!!! That BR is absolutely beautiful. That frog receiver is about the biggest visual argument one can make for the BR. It may be hype, but I believe it.
.
If I may, what are your methods, my mentor?


----------



## superdav721

if you are interested in a blog on the wooden wedge
http://lumberjocks.com/superdav721/blog/32586


----------



## Bertha

Dave! I would have never pegged you for a Country boy!!! Good on you! I've got a lot of video to catch up on. Catch you later, al


----------



## superdav721

Thanks Al! Enjoy


----------



## superdav721

Wait a minute, I have never been pegged before. Do I need a band-aid?


----------



## lysdexic

Al, Dave has a friggin Copenhagen sign hanging in his shop. I buddied him as soon as I saw it. In fact, turns out that I did my fellowship training just down the street from him - outside Jackson MS.


----------



## donwilwol

there was a time when I wanted to be man enough to Copenhagen. I could skoal no problem, but Copenhagen? I still get the sweats thinking about it.


----------



## superdav721

THAT WUZ FUNNY!


----------



## lysdexic

Don, I am still nicotine free but i started Cope at about age 14. So that was 33 years of Cope, most without spitting. Looking back on it, that is just irrational self-destructive behavior. i am prone to it.

I dread my radical neck resection.


----------



## lysdexic

BTW, Gepatino and CL810, both of your restores are drop dead gorgeous.


----------



## CL810

Bertha wrote:

If I may, what are your methods, my mentor?

Nothing special - good camera?? Cleaned it, Evapo Rust, paint remover, flatten sole, bed and frog and then paint.


----------



## gepatino

Dave Bardin, thanks for the video. I'll make a new wedge if I see this one doesn't work well but I don't have the tools yet, I'm just a newbie with a couple of hand tools.


----------



## superdav721

It doesn't take a shop full of tools. A chisel and a saw will get you a long ways. Cut it long, take your time and test fit it. Any questions you have I'll be happy to answer of help get you an answer. I made 3 or 4 before I got it right. I have a large scrap pile.


----------



## Arminius

Gepatino

Middle of the 19C would be about right for that style of plane, so it is quite possible.


----------



## gepatino

Aminius: wow! I'd never imagined it being so old. I mean the wood is in perfect state, the blade only has some marks in the cutting edge…

I'll try to dig some more on this tool, maybe someone in the family knows something. It could have been brought from Spain when they migrated to Argentina.

It amazes me how much history a piece of wood could have… and my brother-in-law was about to sell it for whatever they give them, and for the whole toolbox!


----------



## Bertha

*Dave has a friggin Copenhagen sign hanging in his shop.*
.
I missed that. Damn these eyes! Had I not, I wouldn't have been surprised by his Countryness, translated awesomeness. Copenhagen is rich kids' "rub" here in WV. Most chew a rope, meaning a tobacco rope. I tried one and it was horrific; and I was a Beechnut guy in college, ffs.
.

*I dread my radical neck resection. *
.
In retrospect, it's really not that bad, albeit expensive. The JPs are difficult to hide under your collar and the PETs are expensive, but the pain is all in the wallet. I was going to insert a comment about how much my OMFS/ENT guy made off with, but we're already surfed those waters, lol
.
This is my public service announcement. Dip…and you'll have to wear these glasses.
.









.
Dave, I took your video straight out to the shop and rehabbed a woodbody. I told you I would, and I did in your honor.
.


----------



## lysdexic

I am with you Al. I realized the err in my ways when had to try on a pair those glasses. Once I donned those frames and looked in the mirror, I never took another dip. Hardest thing that I have ever done but I'll be damned if I'd go out in public with those BCG's.


----------



## ksSlim

And I thought I was the only one that used "BCG" to describe eye wear!!!


----------



## Bertha

lolol. I remember when I got those glasses. $300 Persols. My fiance insisted that I get them before all the cool kids got them. However, it's not cool to get your ass kicked until the popularity kicks in. Check out the pinpoints, Lysdexic; whassup? 
.
KSslim, you're one of the gang now So I'm a FLK with BCGs, what of it?


----------



## superdav721

Nice Al. I love my wood planes. And you guy are going to trip when you see how low I am going to build my next bench.
Thanks guys. 
Thank you Al you have made my day.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Dave ….. just smack a few pallets with some floorplanks on to see if it worth
making a low bench ….. any way its a good easy way to adjust floor level to 
find the right hight for the bench that will fits you and the way you work

Dennis


----------



## superdav721

Yes Dennis I am going to build up a mock bench first. I dont want to put all that time and effort in it and it be wrong. Great suggestion.


----------



## lysdexic

If the bench is too low, we can always cut off your feet.


----------



## donwilwol

so, I had an extremely annoying day at work. That's not a complaint, just an explanation for the now third glass of Evan Williams Honey, sooooooo did he say

If the bench is too low, we can always cut off your feet.


----------



## superdav721

Oww I will need a bandaid.


----------



## Gshepherd

Don't ya love it, a true friend indeed, who else could you count on to hold the hacksaw?????


----------



## Bertha

I sprung for the biggest Sawzall they had; I'm game for some amputation. 
.
Don, you and Evan better play nice. He's gotten me into schoolyard fights before. His friend, Old Crow, is even worse of a bully.


----------



## donwilwol

Evan and i play well together. I like his friend Jack to. Were a bit of a team.

There is more to this story maybe I'll share someday.


----------



## Bertha

^I look forward to it, Don. I was a Maker's guy in my day. Jim Beam when the wallet was thin. I was always more of a gin guy in the day. Never liked tequila. Brewed beer professionally, so beer was always on the menu. ScottyB enjoys a fine handcrafted beer, based upon his camera.


----------



## GMatheson

I picked this saw up with a bunch of other tools a while ago. I figured it was time to clean up the saws. 



















































It was originally a 7tpi crosscut but I thought I would get more use out of it as a rip so I changed it while I was sharpening.


----------



## lysdexic

GMath - that is awesome. I like the saw with the metal plate just for the coolness factor if nothing else.

Just the right amount of patina. I don't know how you guys achieve that.


----------



## Bertha

Outstanding, Gmath. I'm with Scott; not knowing how you achieve that perfect clean, subtle patina.


----------



## donwilwol

That is one sharp looking saw, no pun intended. I'm with Scott, those side plate add extra ''cool''.


----------



## superdav721

Nice job. The plate kind of gave it a steampunk look.


----------



## bandit571

That side plate looks very firmiliar….









yep….









except mine got a little red…









Now, as to a maker of those little metal plates…??


----------



## Dennisgrosen

nice restoring Gmath and Bandit 

Dennis


----------



## superdav721

I am seeing double.


----------



## GMatheson

Would be nice to know who makes these saws. I think the handle plate was the main reason I bought this one.

The key to getting the patina look is to give up before it's shiny. Personally I just wet sanded with 220 and 400 then buffed with autosol polish and called it a day. The handle was just scraped to get the old finish off then sanded with 150 then soaked in oil then a coat of shellac and some wax.


----------



## CL810

Looking for some help.

Below is a picture of the sole of a Bailey #5 I'm working on. I've flattened the sole several times now and that pitted area keeps coming back. Is there something I should be doing that will "kill" this or have I just not sanded in down enough?

Thanks in advance for you suggestions!


----------



## shampeon

Pits in that area will affect performance not at all. Shiny!


----------



## superdav721

The pitting is below the surface that you have worked so hard on. Air is getting to it and the rust is returning. I would remove the rust by whatever method you use. Then seal the pitted area from air. Lacquer, epoxy or any polymer you like. Then re flatten.
By the way that looks very good.


----------



## Arminius

CL810,

Dave above me is probably right - but I would suggest carefully applying gun blue rather than his sealing methods.


----------



## exelectrician

As far as I am concerned, I would simply ignore this slight blemish, and get the work done the plane was intended for.


----------



## DocBailey

GMatheson's post reminded me of a saw I rehabbed last spring. It's a HARVEY PEACE No. 110 from the late 1890s. You'll notice from the original ad that it had a black walnut handle. The really cool thing, though, is the etch (I've reproduced it as an inset for legibility).


----------



## superdav721

Look at all the plated saws showing up.
Nice work guys.


----------



## Arminius

exelectrician,

I don't think the issue is the blemish per se, it is the fact that it keeps coming back. Left unchecked, it will get worse, and the material there could readily compromise a workpiece.


----------



## donwilwol

When you say "keep coming back" are you keeping it well oiled or waxed? I agree, wire brush it or evapo-rust it and seal it. Gun blue, lacquer (i never used lacquer on the bottom like that, but can't think of a reason it wouldn't work). I use fluid film to help keep the rust away. According to the can, evapo-rust can be left on and it will do the same.


----------



## paratrooper34

About six months ago, my Record 080 cabinet scraper fell out of my tool cabinet onto the concrete floor and broke. Snapped one of the handles off, dang it! I found one about a month ago to replace the old one. It was pretty fugly and needed a good cleaning. Here are some pics of before, during, and after the restoration process.




























As you can see, it was pretty dirty, had some funky yellow paint on the underside of the handles, and had some rust on the sole.



















The yellow paint was quickly dispatched with some carb cleaner. I used sandpaper on a glass plate and extra coarse and coarse diamond plates to get the sole freshened up. Lastly, I used a wire wheel in a drill to clean up the screws and the blade retainer.




























This 080 that I just got did not have a blade in it. Which was ok because I already had a couple and the lack of a blade meant a pretty good deal for the 080 at 10 bucks on eBay. The shorter blade you see has a 45 degree bevel filed on it and a slight hook that I burnished on it. The taller blade has hooks burnished on all four edges, like a card scraper. As you can see, it works great.

Another rehab success!!!


----------



## DanKrager

Now that's just neat!
Dank


----------



## chrisstef

nice work paratrooper .. i wish i could get my 80 to perform like that. I gotta work on my burr turing.


----------



## CL810

Dave, Arminius and Don

I have not oiled it. I've never had issues in my shop so I didn't think it would be needed.

Thanks for the suggestions - back to work!


----------



## paratrooper34

Chris, I had a difficult time with the burrs at first as well. I never had a frame of reference other than what I read in books. Then I took a week long course with Chris Schwarz in Germany and he made the lightbulb click. I was doing everything right except I was using WAY too much pressure turning the burr. Schwarz showed me to back off the pressure big time and it all came together. Maybe that helps you some.

Good Luck!


----------



## lysdexic

Stef,
I am with you on the burr. Sometimes mine work great and sometimes not. There something that I just don't get yet. However, I will try to back off on the pressure when turning the burr. Thanks for the tip.

a week long course with Chris Schwarz in Germany Wow. That is an expensive course. Fun no doubt. Did you build his tool chest at Dictum?


----------



## Handtooler

I just recently purchased a Wood River #80. It came w/a beveled blade I was treating it like a plane balde an didn't know to burnish it till a short write up yesterday and your entry now. Do you roll the bur away from the bevel side and install the blade w/ the bevel facing aft away from the side marked 80? How sharp should the bevel be before burnishing. It came with NO instructions, Can the non beveled side of the scraper blade be burnished as a card scraper and installed that side down and used in the holder?


----------



## paratrooper34

Handtooler, yes, you roll the burr away from the bevel and install it just the way you said. I give any surface I am going to burnish a pretty good polishing. I use the file first to get rid of the old hook and then move on to either two levels of diamond plates or my water stones. I get the surfaces smoothed and shiny. And finally, yes the non-beveled side can be sharpened like a card scraper, although you will have to use more pressure to turn the hook due the width of the blade which is much more substantial than a card scraper. In my pics above, I show both types of blade treatments. The one that is at 45 degrees with a turned hook is used for coarser work whereas the one done up like a card scraper is for lighter, finer work.

Good Luck!


----------



## Handtooler

Paratrooper34, Many THANKS for your speedy reply!


----------



## racerglen

@chrisstef ? 
Re Breast drills I got lost in the wilds of the LJ Forums here, I think you'd posted a big one 
and wondered about the plate by the gear ?








This is an untouched Miilers Falls #12, and yes, grainey or not it's a bubble level.
and a Stanley #733, works in progress, both have functional levels.









(getting some of my camera bugs worked out, I thought I was following a pro's advice properly 
but had the ISO/shutter speed WAY too high, good to catch a 200 mph dragster, not a stationary drill..sigh..)


----------



## dbray45

This is a good instruction for sharpening a # 80

http://www2.woodcraft.com/pdf/77a19.pdf


----------



## dbray45

Double post - darn internet thingy


----------



## chrisstef

Glen, thanks for the info .. i really wish the breast drill i posted was mine. Im envious to say the least. The owner may not get aroudn to clenaing it up anytime soon, so i might just have to go ahead and do it myself just to see the glory. Stealin the thunder.

Para - great info on the 80 and turning the burr. Im going to put my #80 next in line for a good tuning. Ive previously had a love/hate relationship with it. I wanna love it, i do, but it just aint puttin out like i need it.

DB - as soon as this thing called work gets outta my way im all over that article.


----------



## GMatheson

Here is another saw I brought back to life. It's a 26"x4" Disston Mitre-box saw. As you can see it was pretty rusty to start with.























































It cleaned up nicely and even shared a little surprise with me.










I was not expecting any etch to survive but I managed to keep it.

So with a little research I found that this saw was made between 1896-1917 and sold for $2.50 ($30/dozen). Also according to the etch it was made for Millers Fall for use on the Landon Mitre Box which is great since I already have one.


----------



## donwilwol

i love that Millers Falls/Disston.


----------



## superdav721

Very nice save. That is great!


----------



## lysdexic

Smashing!


----------



## DanKrager

GMatheson
I just bought some rusty Disstons. Am I to understand that Evaporust did that beautiful number on your back saw? I've never used or heard of the stuff, but if it does THAT I'm sure gonna scare some up.
DanK


----------



## GMatheson

I didn't use Evaporust on this saw…I sanded it starting with regular 150X then wet sanded with 220X, 400X and 800X but Evaporust is magical stuff.


----------



## exelectrician

Beautiful restore on the backsaw. How did the sharpening go? I am new to sharpening saws. I got a saw vise and today received the three square files to get going, on my three Atkins saws.


----------



## GMatheson

I haven't sharpened the backsaw yet but it should be a pretty easy sharpening job. The teeth are all good and it only needs a quick set and sharpening. I am planning on making a nice saw vise like Brit posted a while ago then sharpening will follow. Hopefully have it all done by sometime next week.


----------



## Brit

GMatheson - What a gorgeous mitre saw. They don't surface very often over here and when they do, they go for silly money if they are in a restorable condition. Good luck with the sharpening.


----------



## bandit571

This #3 Dunlap came in the mail this afternoon:









Knob's bolt was "Beheaded somewhere along the way, still had wood shaving under the frog, and rust everywhere…









Spent about a third of the day ( also had to change brake pads on the van, and a few other chores) with some sandpaper, a moto-tool, and a few other tools. No chemicals were used.









New front bolt, a 1/4"x20 one. Re-tapped the hole, added some washers, and knob has a new bolt that works..









The rest of the parts. Shined up nicely? As for the sole:









still has a few pits, but it is now flat. Just a $6 plane…


----------



## Brit

I know some of you have seen these before on my blog, but my work schedule doesn't allow me to post anything new at the moment and I can't tell you how much I'm missing being able to share some restorations with you guys.

*SKINNER 8" SWEEP BRACE*

Before:









After:








.

*S&J 26" HANDSAW circa 1830*

Before:









After:









After sharpening:





.

*12" DISSTON No.5 BACKSAW*

Before:









After:


















After Sharpening:





.

*14" W. TYZACK, SONS & TURNER circa 1887*

Before:


















After:


















After Sharpening:


----------



## terryR

Andy, those saws are so lovely that I'm now ashamed to post the Disston No. 16 I completed yesterday. 

remind us again…what grits of sandpaper do you use to restore the saw plate to such perfection?


----------



## Mosquito

Dang Andy, those all look so great. I really like that S&J. And that TYZACK…

Nice choice of music for the TYZACK as well lol


----------



## Brit

*Terry* - That's not an easy question to answer because IMO it depends on the back saw. If the saw has an etch that I want to keep, I don't sand it as much as I would if it didn't have an etch. Also, to get a saw plate looking that good begins before the sanding even starts. Let me explain.


Be particular about the saws you buy. If a saw is deeply pitted, you won't be able to get rid of deep pits by sanding it. Period. If I'm sanding a plate that is pitted, I will stop at P400 as going much higher will only accentuate the pits.
First remove the handle (if possible) and get rid of any rust.
Before you start sanding, examine the saw carefully. Take a straight edge longer than the saw plate and place it on the side of the plate just below the back or spine. Does the straight edge rock? Now try the other side. If the straight edge rocks on either side of the plate, then the back needs straightening before you start sanding. Sanding a saw with a bent back is a waste of time as you will just end up with shiny spots.
Now the back is straight, sight along the toothline. Is it straight? If not, you will need to tension the saw plate.
So with a flat plate, I place the plate on a granite cutting board so that the back of the saw hangs over the edge.
I go through the grits P80, P120, P180, P240, P320, P400, P600, P800 (optional) with the sandpaper wrapped around a 6" x 1 1/2" x 3/4" block. The majority of the work is done with the P80 and P120. The rest of the grits go pretty quickly. I sand with full length strokes along the plate covering each part of the plate with the same number of strokes. The only exception to this is the part of the plate that goes into the handle. I hardly sand that at all. I do both sides of the plate with each grit before moving up to the next grit and I rinse the granite plate and my block in water after each grit size. 
Once I have both sides at P600 or P800, I take some 0000 steel wool, fold it over, put about 6 drops of 3 IN 1 oil on it and rub each side of the plate using full length strokes. This step not only helps protect the plate, but it also evens out the color and scratch pattern left by the abrasive.

It sounds like a lot of work, but I can do all the above steps on a 14" saw plate in 2-3 hours. Is it hard work? Sure. Do my arms ache? Ablsolutely. As far as I'm concerned though, I'd rather get my exercise restoring tools than pumping weights in a gym and at the end of it I have a saw I can use for the rest of my life.

Finally, I know many people like to keep as much of what they call 'the patina' as they can. That's fine by me as long as it is patina and not rust. Patina is one thing, years of neglect is another. I can live with patina, but neglect I have to put right.


----------



## Brit

C'mon Terry, show us the No.16


----------



## terryR

Andy, awesome advice, thanks!

I've sure learned how important step 1 is…those rust buckets on eBay for $20 are in a different class than the not so rusty $100 ones. It's hard to make a silk purse from a sow's ear, ya know? 

Steps 3 and 4 I need to focus on from this point forward…AND it's about time I bought a few saw files, too…

I don't have a before photo of the no.16…bummer…but look for the restored photo over on the saw forum…


----------



## bandit571

Went to the Antique Mall today, and spent $7+tax. Just a small block plane..









that needed a little TLC..









So, I spent just over an hour, working things back to "Almost-like-new" status..









starting to look a little better..









A Stanley #220, or so it says..









even the adjustor looks better…









Just a lazy Saturday Afternoon…


----------



## planepassion

Andy I never tire of seeing your restorations. Your before/after pictures always lead me to that peaceful meadow where the breeze gently blows and I am spiritually in concert with the handtools of an age gone by. And I never tire of hearing about your methods and techniques.


----------



## Gshepherd

Cannibas and Spongebob has the same effect on me…....


----------



## chrisstef




----------



## racerglen

Andy..run…I think the Bobbies are on to you..
You've been caught dealing..
High hopes, spongebob sanding blocks and seen sniffing Brasso..

;-)


----------



## Brit

*Terry* - The backsaws I've been restoring this year were bought throughout the course of last year. Although I'm not really looking for anymore backsaws, I can't help checking ebay.co.uk on a regular basis to see what's on offer. I think I must have been lucky, because this year I have only seen about three backsaws that I would have bid on and they all went for more than I paid for mine. I've got a few more handsaws and panel saws to do next year and I hope to make my own backsaws too. I have the steel for the plates, so I just need to get some brass for the folded backs and get some wood for the totes. Should be fun.

Thanks *Brad*. What a wonderfully idyllic picture you paint.

*Glen* - I don't know how to respond to that. )


----------



## superdav721

Guys that is some amazing work.
Andy WOW


----------



## Mosquito

Andy, I hope you do a blog when you make your own back saw… I bet it will be crazy awesome.


----------



## Mosquito

Didn't go crazy, just cleaned it up a bit. Didn't polish it up, or anything.


















Could definitely use a sharpening, but it works ok as is.


----------



## lysdexic

Nice Chris. Where did you get that beauty?


----------



## Mosquito

from none other than The Smitty


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop




----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

It may have cut the original dovetails on the old chest. Last name of the initials is Dulle…


----------



## Mosquito

You know, it's stuff like that, that keeps me hooked on vintage tools. The stories they could tell. There's no knowing what it may have done in its lifetime. It's not so much what it *has* done, but instead what it *may have* done…


----------



## Brit

...and what it is _*going to do *_now.


----------



## terryR

Nice saw there, Mos! You did a great job cleaning it up!


----------



## Mosquito

That too Andy… maybe eventually it will do great things again!
-

Thanks Terry.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice saw. I almost missed it.


----------



## mochoa

Wow, I've been sleeping on this thread. Nice saw restore Mos!


----------



## Bertha

Disgusting strength in here lately. GMath for the win.


----------



## Bertha

Andy, I turned my Workamate into a dedicated dovetail machine station. I'll have to take some pics. I love it!


----------



## Brit

Al - After struggling with my Workmate for the best part of 26 years, the only thing I want to turn it into is a pile of smoldering ash. If anyone has a problem with that, they can (as you Amercians say) talk to the hand. I won't be deprived of the satisfaction. LOL.

I will of course capture this act of vandalism on video when the time comes for all to see.


----------



## CharlesAuguste

Brit Looking forward to it!


----------



## donwilwol

After struggling with my Workmate for the best part of 26 years

Time to loose the patience Andy!!


----------



## DanKrager

DON'T DO IT, BRIT! You know you'll miss the damn thing about a week after the vandalism. And you won't have it around to blame for the "Ooops!" 
DanK


----------



## Bertha

Andy:
.




































Those pictures are like ALL Andy. 

Here's my friggin BEFORE, Don. It'll motivate me. RoundieRock5
.








.


----------



## lysdexic

Before:










-----------------------------------------------------------------

After :^)


----------



## Bertha

^lololol
prepare to sharpen you nickers. And prepare to drop your knickers.


----------



## terryR

Scott, those are my favorite before and after shots on the thread so far! 
Well…maybe in the top5…
But I just love the 45…
been on the hunt…


----------



## superdav721

Man those are nice.


----------



## luckysawdust

Wow… I'm impressed!

I'm just out of college, and starting my own hand-tool collection-and have two planes that are in need of restoration, but I'm not sure of the best way to go about it. I have checked out a copy of "Hand-Tool Essentials" (by Popular Woodworking) and they have a few good articles on restoring hand-tools.

I'm wondering how much work I'd need to put into mine, below?



















- "Lucky"


----------



## superdav721

Luck those should be no problem. You are in the right place for help.


----------



## shampeon

Lucky: now and forevermore, start with Don's well-documented process.


----------



## CharlesAuguste

Looks like you will be busy for a while!


----------



## luckysawdust

I was hoping Don would document his restoration process! Thanks guys, I'll get to work! Hopefully I'll have some before and after pictures before too long!

- Lucky


----------



## chrisstef

Hooked another one boys! Have fun Lucky.


----------



## mochoa

Scott, are you cutting stopped dados with the 45? I didn't know that was possible.


----------



## Mosquito

lol, unless you keep advancing the cutter, and end up with it way out, it's not


----------



## Bertha

Luck, you're golden. I'd shock the $hit out of them but the guys will give you different methods. Those are VERY worth saving. When you move up to more rare planes, you'll already have the skill set. Go all out, hoss.


----------



## donwilwol

Keep us posted lucky.


----------



## superdav721

Lucky what make and model is the one next to the Dunlap? My eyes aren't to good.


----------



## Bertha

^it's a trustworthy, Dave. I love the look of those caps.


----------



## bandit571

a Dunlap #3 before..









Later, it will be getting new wood handles, ala a Craftsman #4 I recently finished up..









My Dunlap #3 has PLASTIC handles (YUCK!!) so, Walnut might just be in order…


----------



## superdav721

Nice, Thanks Al.


----------



## Bertha

Bandit's on the move again. Walnut is my favorite wood. New totes are easier on larger planes. Hats off to you.


----------



## shampeon

Box o' brace bits, pre scrub in the sink with Barkeeper's Friend and the citric acid bath.








With this little bit of death in it:








Looks like some sort of lead stuff. And the wax paper label says it contains asbestos. Whoa. Any idea what this stuff is, and how I should get rid of it?

Oh, and it came with this Millers Falls 771 12" brace.


----------



## shampeon

Stanley 36G 24" cast iron level, with the metal glass protectors. Forgot to get a pre picture. Here it is after a scrub with Barkeeper's Friend and a Scotchbrite sponge to remove the surface rust.


----------



## Handtooler

I think it may be a plumber's packing ring made of asbertos fibers and a putty like substance use in the old cast iron black drain pipes of yesteryear. But, why with the bits is the question?


----------



## bandit571

The Asbestos stuff took the place of Oakum. One would use a chisel like tool to pack the joint in iron pipes with either the oakum, of the "new" stuff. The black "stuff" is lead. Plumber would melt the lead down, then pour into the packing to seal things up. Box of bits might have been the plubers stash of bit to run pipes in a house. Mainly by drilling holes in joists.


----------



## shampeon

Well, there was a metal chisel in with the bits, so bandit's theory seems to bear out. How in the hell do I get rid of this lead/asbestos mixture? I assume it's not compostable.


----------



## Mosquito

Asbestos needs to be put in a sealed container, and brought to a landfill that is legally permitted to dispose of it. I'm sure if you contact your local land fill, they'll be able to tell you where you can bring it, if not to them.


----------



## bandit571

Lead? Fishing sinkers. The other stuff? Local EPA? Seal the junk up in as many plastic bags as you can, taping each shut. Use a spray bottle filled with water, you DO NOT want any dust from this to get "airborne", NONE. First bag, have some water inside the bag. Last app. of tape, print in LARGE letters: "BIOHAZARD"

Tip: No need to sharpen THAT "chisel", they were used blunt. They wanted to pack the Oakum into the joints, nut cut it.


----------



## wormil

*Before*:









*Midway*:





*After*:














Model 85 grinder from Prairie Tool Co., Prairie du Chien, WI.; made sometime after 1920.


----------



## chrisstef

Shamp if its got lead and asbestos itll go out as mixed hazardous waste. Asbestos would go out as classified waste. Try a local abatement contractor for disposal. They should be able to send it out with another load. Keeping it wet is a good idea. Putting on your sandwich is not.

Rick that grinder is sweet! I really like it.


----------



## paratrooper34

Shampeon, that asbestos stuff is a packing material, but not for cast iron pipes (lead and oakum is for that purpose) What you have is packing material for the stems on large valves such as gate valves etc. A commercial plumber may have a use for it, but there is probably a substitute for the asbestos type packing. If you are determined to have it properly disposed of, contact an asbestos removal company and see if they can dispose of that with the rest that they deal with.


----------



## Gshepherd

Rick, nice job on the grinder. Ya just do not see many of them like this anymore.


----------



## superdav721

Nice grinder.


----------



## Bertha

Lead and asbestos? Better smoke it. 
.
You guys are seriously more responsible than me. I'd chunk it the trash and not think twice about it. I'm that jerk that also just tosses fluorescent bulbs, batteries, and spent oil.
.
I'm not proud of it, but there it is.


----------



## Bertha

That grinder is phenomenal. The gearing really gets that wheel moving.


----------



## lysdexic

I am with you Al. If you are feeling overly responsible put it into a disposable bowl or cup or something, pour some polyurethane to submerge it. Let that harden. Then toss it.


----------



## donwilwol

Double zip lock it and toss it. That takes care of both sides, the responsible side and the "get rid of it without hassle" side.


----------



## Bertha

I like the way you guys think.


----------



## shampeon

Just looked at the local trash company's website. I can drop off household hazardous waste for free, including asbestos. Wet it, bag it three or four times, and bring it in. I can do that, and then my conscience is clear.

Here's the bits worth saving, post citric acid bath and fine wire brushing, a grab bag of Jennings, Irwin, Vulcan, and other, with one that has some nice engraved script that says OVB: Our Very Best.


----------



## superdav721

Look at them shiny bits. Bling bling


----------



## wormil

Citric acid… I'll have to try that on my Irwin bits, they need a bit of TLC.


----------



## Mosquito

Another route is just 100% lemon juice. I use that and/or white vinegar with some baking soda probably close to 1/2 the time I clean something up. Cheaper than Evaporust, and I honestly think it works faster


----------



## wormil

You just soak them overnight then hit them with a brass brush?


----------



## Bertha

I pour white vinegar on weeds. Kills them dead in the sun. I might have to try the vinegar + soda volcano.


----------



## carguy460

How about a restoration question that does not specifically pertain to woodworking tools? Can I do that?

I opened up my Springfield XD 45 this weekend. Its been in its case for a year or so, had a few descant bags in with it…which wasn't enough apparently. The thing has pretty significant rust on the slide…is there any way to clean this guy up without ruining the black finish on the slide? I guess I should post a pic…I figured I should see if I got slapped for asking a gun "restoring" question before I posted pics…

Perhaps restore isn't the right word…this gun is only about 8 years old!


----------



## donwilwol

Jason, post some pic's but I'd get some touch up gun blue and rust remover. Depending on how bad it is. If its really light, try a lead pencil. Use the pencil like you were trying to erase the rust with the pencil, then wipe it off with a clean rag. Then oil it well.

My father in law just gave me a 1894 Winchester. It had one spot of rust. It took 15 or 20 pencil applications, but it finally came off.

Pic's will help us help you. Note there is no "tool" in the title. Restorations of any kind are welcome here.


----------



## Mosquito

Rick, you don't have to leave them overnight. I've been able to use lemon juice or white vinager with baking soda, and had it cleaned up within the hour. Al brings up a good point, though, make sure the container is deep enough, and add a little baking soda at a time, or you'll quickly have a bigger mess than you intended… I've even used this mixture on larger planes like my #7 that I don't hae a container large enough for. I just sprinkle some baking soda on the plane in the sink, and then pour some lemon juice/vinager on it, let it foam and sit a minute or two, and then hit it with a brush. Either brass or a nylon brush. It's not as fast but it does work well for me.


----------



## carguy460

Don, I wish this was just a spot of rust…unfortunately its pretty bad. I haven't tried to remove it yet to see how deep it goes because I didn't want to hurt the thing…

I hate to post pics…I fear Al will want me whipped for my mistreatment of this little guy…

Oh well - here are my pics of shame…




























I don't understand how it happened - I always kept descants in the case with it, and never had an issue before. When I lived in New Mexico, the thing was always kept in my truck next to the drivers seat, out in open air…maybe this Missouri humidity is just too much?


----------



## shampeon

Rick, any acid will do. I like citric acid because:
a) it's way cheap-a $10 bag I bought will last me the rest of my life
b) it's a powder, so it's easy to store
c) it's totally safe

I mix up the acid powder with hot water and let the parts soak overnight. If they're particularly corroded I'll take a brass hand brush and give them a quick scrub then put them back in.

You'll end up with a bunch of black and dull grey parts. I rinse the acid mixture off, dry them, and then chuck a fine wire brush in my lathe (a drill press works too). Takes all the black neutralized rust and dull grey coating off right quick, leaving shiny metal. Then, depending on the part, one of Nevr Dull/a rag soaked with 3 In 1 Oil/carnauba wax to protect the metal, and you're done.


----------



## donwilwol

@Jason, here is what I would do, I'd call Brownells, http://www.brownells.com and ask them what they would recommend.

I think the thought of saving the blueing is gone, but re-blueing something that big isn't a big project. You can either use cold blue, or this stuff, http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/paint-finishes/bake-on-aerosol-paints/teflon-moly-oven-cure-gun-finish-prod1145.aspx

I have re-done at least 2 or 3 rifles with it. Its on my two deer rifles I use all the time. I've been through snow storms, rain storms and its really durable. I think its more durable then bluing and its easy to use.

@shampeon, were do you get bags of citrix acid. I may have to try that out.


----------



## carguy460

Thanks Don, I'll check Brownells out. I'm really upset that I allowed this to happen…Is there any good way to prevent this from happening again other than keeping the gun inside the house? I really would like to keep it in my truck with me now that I'm about to get my MO concealed carry permit.

Completely unrelated, but somehow relevant - "Midnight Rider" just came across my Pandora account, and I thought of Don…bromance, or just an image brought on by Don's motorcycle pic? Anyway, don't let em catch the midnight rider, Don!


----------



## donwilwol

Keep it wrapped in a oiled cloth may help. Pull it out every 6 weeks or so and oil it down. Wipe it on and wipe it off.


----------



## superdav721

My ex-wife kept her fathers SW k frame in a leather holster in the trunk. Guess what happened.


----------



## shampeon

Don: you can find it in health food stores or brewer's supply stores. Kosher markets have it, but they call it "Sour Salt." You can use it to descale your coffee maker or teapots, too.

I bought my bag online from here, since I was getting some fancy technicolor sea salt anyway (anyone need a lifetime supply of smoked sea salt, by the way?). Oh, and I was mistaken. It wasn't $10, it's $5 for a pound.


----------



## chrisstef

FYI - over at the HPOYD thread the link to the epic holiday calendar is up.


----------



## Bertha

Jason, that's horrible. On the upside, the polymer looks great! Like Don says, I wrap mine in a silicone cloth and keep it near a powered anti-rust bar. They make pretty big ones for gunsaves. the Zerust capsules work pretty good too. Brownells will tell you what to do. You might just send the slide back and get it refinished. I sent a SigP220 back to Sig after the slide got shot. They re-K-Koted it and it wasn't that expensive or slow.


----------



## Bertha

Sad day for me. All my favorite threads are blocked at work.


----------



## carguy460

Thanks Al…I'm quite tore up about this. Funny thing about all of this - the barrel is still rust free. I guess the Good Lord wanted to make sure I still had a means of defense, even if it is a rusty means…

Another interesting thing about this, none of my other firearms have rusted like this. Wonder if its an XD thing?

I forgot to mention - Rick, awesome grinder, man! I'm developing a crush on hand crank grinders as of late…


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Jason I also used descants bags of some kind for years in my photogear 
until I read it wuold do the oppesit of what I wanted 
yes it will attrak moistier to the bag … so all should be good but it isn´t 
since there is some kind of salt in the bag and small partickels will wandering around in the small
room and settle on the item you want to protect but instead it makes your item rusting

instead use lots of oil and grease before longtime storing

Dennis


----------



## donwilwol

I never trusted those descants packet and never knew why until now.


----------



## Bertha

I'm with Dennis for the most part. I've had slides rust under a slathering of gun grease. I've actually got some decent experience with this. I buy huge electric anti-rust bars. There's no magic to them, they just simply heat the area. When I stored my tools for a year in TN, I bought a unit with electricity and I put a big dehumidifier in there and connected a hose to drain out the gap in the door. I packed everything very well oiled in butcher's paper and closed it with blue tape. I loaded them into rubbermaid bins with zerust capsules and wrapped the lids in that wand-looking-cellophane-rolly-deally. I didn't get a bit of rust.
.
For guns, I just grease them up and put them near a bar. Even in my plane cabinet, it'll keep them at 30%RH when the rest of the shop is 50%RH with a dehumid. I don't keep guns in cases; just stack them b/w eggcrate and a silicone gun cloth, near a rod. I had a pristine Belgian Browning pit once; it makes me want to cry just thinking about it. 
.
I run my Glocks through the dishwasher, spray PAM on them, then wrap them in a silicone cloth. I'm actually not kidding. I consider Glocks just workers and they always work. I've driven a nail into something with the slide of my 20. I hate Glocks, although I own many. It's like having a bunch of Stanley #5s. Workers and at 13+1 of +P+ in the 21SF, it's a dangerous tool.
.
I love Springfield 1911s but I didn't jump on the XD wagon (nor the M&P). My friends absolutely love them but they look like a Glock had sex with a Beretta to me. Plus I hate the trigger. Cool swappable straps, but meh. 
.
Get a SigP220 and just be done with it. I've got almost 30 .45s and nothing touches the P220 for simple performance. I put 2500 rounds through one (the one I still carry) in 1992 in two days at the NRA school. Stock feed ramp without a single misfeed, stovepipe, or failure to eject. Frame mounted decocker, double action first pull, no safety. It's like a revolver that turns into an animal after the first shot. The pull distance is short. Total work of art. 
.
Or just go 1911. Grip + ambi slide safety. Really safe, but not as safe as the P220 IMO. Just don't get an Ed Brown like I did. It's too pretty to put in your waist. Get a Wilson instead if you want a worker.
.
I'll buy that XDm 45 but only b/c I'm curious. I'm a little less curious after this post.


----------



## shampeon

Early 1870s Disston steel-backed dovetail saw. Sharpened by a lunatic.









Barkeeper's Friend is amazing stuff. Cleaned up the patina in minutes. Then I sanded up to 2000.









The handle got cleaned up with with denatured alcohol & some scrapers, then a light sanding to 400. I want the handle to show its age a little, you know? Some walnut Danish oil with a touch of red TransTint for a finish. The brass nuts got their slots filed, a short dip in some leftover citric acid to loosen the gunk, a Scotch Brite pad with more Barkeeper's Friend, and finally some copper wool to clean them up.


----------



## carguy460

Dennis - thanks for the insight! I have those descant packs in with all my other guns, which I will promptly remove now!

Al - I think you just called me out on the XD, and I don't blame you for that at all. I wanted a Sig, but at the time of purchase I needed protection, but couldn't afford the Sig, so I settled. Yeah, the trigger sucks…yeah, it isn't balanced that well…but it is accurate enough and reliable, and can stop a mofo if needed with the 45 round…bad thing about mine, its the 45 GAP…8 years ago that was an up and comming round…now you are lucky to find any ammo for it. I tried to sell the gun a few years back at a gun show - nobody would even make an offer because of the GAP round…


----------



## carguy460

Shampeon - Nice restore! I'm a sucker for old saws..


----------



## Gshepherd

Nice, hey where did you get the tin pails with the flowers on them?


> ?


----------



## shampeon

Heh. My neighbor took a bunch of centerpieces from a wedding. I re-purposed them. They hold stuff good, and I ain't too proud.


----------



## Gshepherd

Heck I like them, they have some class to them…... Vs a mop pail looking one….. ;-)


----------



## donwilwol

nice saw shamp.


----------



## terryR

Shamp, awesome restore on that Disston! I love how the handle looks old…gotta try your recipe…

Thanks for sharing!


----------



## jap

since you guys know so much about saws, how much blade life will i get from a brand knew lee-valley dovetail saw?


----------



## superdav721

Good looking saw.


----------



## Brit

Jap - The projected life of a dovetail saw can be determined as follows:

(TPI ÷ Plate thickness) × (Depth of cut at the toe in inches x Length of plate in inches) ÷ No. of dovetails cut per year

Assuming you cut 100 dovetails per year, the projected life of a 14tpi Veritas Dovetail saw is:

(14 ÷ 0.020") × (1.562" × 9.25") ÷ 100

= 101 yrs.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Then again…I could be making that up. )


----------



## ksSlim

Best formula I've seen for saw life.

Does that apply to both softwood and hardwood?
Or is there hardness factor to be applied?


----------



## Brit

Yeah hardness of the wood being cut and the amount of mineral inclusions will also impact a saw's life. Being crap at sharpening will also make a dramatic difference.

Joking aside though, Jap's question did make me wonder what the life of the spine material used on the Veritas saws will be like. I wonder if it will degrade after 100 years. I'm not dissing the Veritas saws though. If you don't mind how they look, they are still the best value for money.


----------



## ksSlim

I also wonder about the "moulded" back spline.

A member of our woodworkers guild offers a 2 weekend class on building your own DT saw.
His fee is $100 US and you leave with your own hand made saw.

Brass back, .020 plate, the handle wood you supply, hang angle and style to suit your tastes.


----------



## Brit

That's a sweet deal.


----------



## terryR

That's a real sweet deal, ksSlim! can I sign up online?  Be sure to post your saw after the course…

Andy, I think you left out one factor that helps determine a saw's projected lifespan…the user! Heck if the end user has skills as poor as mine, he may end up sharpening the saw every month. Or worse, dropping it on the concrete floor from some height…yikes!


----------



## ksSlim

Not online yet, only in his shop.
check page 3 on the following link.
A few of the saws from his Sept session.
http://www.sunflowerwoodworkers.org/newsletters/September_2012.pdf

Note; one of the fellows even knew how to put an etch logo on his.


----------



## carguy460

Sweet, Slim! Just yesterday I dug up some info on making back saws, I think I'm going to give it a shot. I also found some info on doing the etching…Definitely going to give that a shot!


----------



## DanKrager

I have a 1910 D8 rip with a thumb hole handle. The handle is cracked at the bottom, common I see, and it was "repaired" with a nail and a pretty well fitted metal strap screwed into the bottom. No trace of glue. Considering making a replacement handle because one of the horns has been severely abbreviated. I'm fairly certain the handle is apple wood, so I would try to find some. But, I've been wondering how to cut the plate slot? This has the rounded plate for the slot to be cut with a circular saw, but I've never seen one that thin! ??? Help?
DanK


----------



## wormil

Another cast iron grinder, not really a restoration just taken apart, cleaned and lubricated. Mostly it was oily/dirty. 
Before/After:










More pics:


http://imgur.com/a


Quick vid showing how smooth it spins. The wheel is a little out of balance but maybe that's to be expected considering the age. 11:1 ratio and it will whirl. I'll probably just throw this one back up on ebay since I already have the Prairie grinder.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop




----------



## mochoa

Nice work Smitty, looks great.


----------



## ksSlim

Turned out pretty nice Smitty!


----------



## Brit

Great save Smitty


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I went to 600 on the wet sanding for you, Andy…


----------



## planepassion

And it shows Smitty! Andy influenced me to go to 600 as well. The plate has a nice reflection that helps me keep it square when making a cut.


----------



## Bertha

Smit, d'you Danish Oil the wetsand? The scroll is otherworldly.


----------



## donwilwol

before





































-
-
After





































And the blog http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/33401#comment-1425921


----------



## superdav721

Very nice Don.


----------



## shampeon

Beauty, Don. I love me a rusty save.

How do you remove/attach the tote wood? I see two pins on my #45, but I don't really see a way of getting them off without digging into the rosewood. Should I leave well enough alone while I'm cleaning everything up?


----------



## donwilwol

The new tote is epoxied on. Originally they pinned it, putting 2 pins, one drilled from one side but not all the way through and one from the other, and again not all the way through. I though about doing the same, but re-drilling through the metal so I wouldn't have to worry about lining up the hidden holes, but I figured epoxy was easier and would hold better anyhow.

Taking it off in this case wasn't an issue. It literary fell off. All that is left of the original is a piece that was between the pins. There would be no way to get it off in one piece if it was in good shape. The pins are pressed in, and even with the wood off, drove out hard.


----------



## mochoa

Friggin awesome Don!


----------



## BTKS

An incredible save, keep em coming. if there are too many for your shop just let me know.


----------



## carguy460

Amazing stuff Don! I'm pretty sure at this point that you could polish a turd and make it shine like a diamond. You are one bad MOFO!


----------



## lysdexic

Sounds to me Don that you have been called out for a new challenge. Turd polishing.

Remember before and after pics or it didn't happen.


----------



## Mosquito

they did it on Mythbusters, Scott…


----------



## robertb574

Dang Don, I have seen many postings of your restorations. Lot of talent and skill shown but this 45 looked hopeless. And then to see where you brought it to. And so quick too. Amazing - Simply amazing. Makes me ask if you do people. Just knock half off my age. I wouldn't mind being in my thirty's again.


----------



## wormil

Amazing restoration. I hope to go all out with an old ugly tool some day.


----------



## bandit571

While this might not be a Don Yoda worthy item.. I have finally got around to finishing up a #4 I picked up a week or so ago.









Kind of rusty..









Got to cleaning stuff up









Found some missing parts for it..









Put things back together..









another view…









and a test drive on some nasty Pine 1x….









Just a "Mutt" of a plane…


----------



## wormil

Teaser pic for another grinder refurb. I forgot my phone and couldn't take after pics, maybe later I can run up and snap some. They sure got their money's worth out of the grinding wheel on the red one.


----------



## Handtooler

Please show the Data Plate better on the left one. Maybe Montgomery Wards?


----------



## wormil

This thing had almost 1/8" of hardened grease covering it. First I tried Simple Green, then mineral spirits, then a mix of mineral spirits, turpentine, and acetone; then finally resorted to carburetor cleaner.


----------



## racerglen

Rick, my go to for stuff like that is Brake kleen or clean depening
on the brand.
Works realy well on old goops !


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

G-P is excellent stuff!


----------



## wormil

The model 485 was Goodell-Pratt's smallest crank grinder, a 'toolbox' grinder, designed to be toted between job sites yet this beast weighs in at 11 lbs. It's 22:1 gearing means that one crank per second gives you 1320 RPM at the wheel; two cranks per second (not difficult) is 2640 RPM and sounds like an electric bench grinder. If I can match the original reddish/orange paint, I'm going to strip and repaint this old grinder. Not sure of the year, sometime between 1895-1929. In 1930 Goodell-Pratt was rolled into Millers Falls.

The seller packed the grinder inadequately and broke the 1/4" wheel that was on it. All I had was this old crappy grinding wheel and it wobbles a little.

The maker plate suffered a little under all the cleaning, I was dumb for not taping over it. And I missed a spot of grease, darn it.










22:1 ratio














































Original advertisement










The seller packed the grinder inadequately and broke the 1/4" wheel that was on it. All I had was this old crappy grinding wheel and it wobbles a little.


----------



## luckysawdust

I posted the 'before' pictures a little while ago, having never restored a tool before, let alone a set of planes.

I read Don's write-up, and set up an electrolysis tub, got out my wire brush, got some sand-paper, and went to work!

Here are the 'before' pictures of an old "Trustworthy" jack plane, and a Dunlop smoothing plane:



















Now the "after" shots:


----------



## Gshepherd

Wow, nice to see some old grinders…....

Lucky, very nice job on the planes…...

Bandit, as always very nice….


----------



## superdav721

Wonderful work.


----------



## lysdexic

Lucky, really nice job on the restores but I am afraid that you put them back together upside down. Sorry to break the bad news to you.


----------



## bandit571

Lucky, they are just fine. looks good. That one lever cap looks a bit naked, though…









maybe a "splash' of red to set it off???


----------



## lysdexic

Am I the only who sees the pics upside down?


----------



## superdav721

ǝɯ ƃuıɹǝɥʇoq ʇou sʇı


----------



## lysdexic

Well played Dave. How did you do that?


----------



## superdav721

google "write upside down" there are 50 sites that will do all kinds of crazy stuff.


----------



## superdav721




----------



## DanKrager

ʞuɐp
¡ʎɐp ǝןoɥʍ ʎɯ ǝpɐɯ ˙ǝʌɐp 'ʇı ǝʌoן


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Love that Trustworthy lever cap. Nice restore!


----------



## hhhopks

Rick,
Can you demonstrate to us the technique in sharpening a blade with one hand while cranking the grinder with the other? It seems to be an impossible tasks as I can barely get by to hand sharpening my tools on my electric grinder.


----------



## bandit571

Simple. Crank the grinder up to full speed. let go of handle. Grind a little bit. By the time the wheel is too slow, time to cool the iron anyway.

Roy Underhill (with the Schwarz) had an episode about handplane. Roy used a hand crank grinder to sharpen a cambered #5 iron. You can go on line at pbs.org, dial up The Woodwright's Shop. Look in about the second season back from the current season list. Sit back and watch.


----------



## ksSlim

Connect string to crank handle, connect other end of string to a piece of scrap wood.
Start the crank by hand, put foot on scrap wood, when appropriate push down with foot.
Wheel should keep turning.


----------



## bandit571

Arrived today in the mail, just a might rusty..









Only the cap iron was rust-free, almost









Down to the Dungeon it went…









Just a brass wire wheel in the drill press, even the sole was just brushed off..









even found some time to work on the iron and even make a few shavings…









first trip down the wooden test track…









Gossemer shavings, floating to the floor ( no wind in the dungeon)

What else can one do, on a day like this..


----------



## wormil

@hhhopks there are videos on the web already if you google hand crank grinder.

@ksSlim, not sure if you were joking but I've been planning on doing exactly that.


----------



## ksSlim

Rick-Not joking, used a leather boot lace on mine after wearing out the sting too many times.
Found it best for my #13s to elongate the pedal. Trial and error, mostly error.


----------



## ksSlim

Bandit-is that a Craftsman block?
I got one today with the same lateral adjust but with a nuckle cap iron.
Did I get a "combo" plane?

Iron says Craftsman but no other markings have come to light yet.


----------



## wormil

I was thinking of attaching a bungee to the board so that it pops back up but maybe that isn't necessary.

Here is the original treadle attachment for a Luther.


----------



## ksSlim

When crank handle turns, following the force of the turning grinding wheel, it will pull the pedal up.
Same principal as the picture but no fly wheel.

Takes only a few minutes to rig. Try it. Let me know if you find a better way without wasting electrons.


----------



## wormil

ksSlim, Definitely will. I've got so many things going in too many directions, I need to focus. Example

Siegley transitional jointer plane. 24" long, 3 1/8" wide, 6 1/2 lbs, 2 3/8 wide SsS blade. Siegley planes were made from the 1880's until they were bought by Stanley in 1905 and maybe for a short while afterward by Union. These are very similar to Stanley #31's except the Siegley blade is a tad thicker.

I didn't repaint because a lot of the original paint is intact but I will pick up a bottle of black enamel model paint and do some touch ups. Otherwise I de-rusted, polished and waxed the metal. I also sanded and waxed the handles and the plane body. The sole still needs lapping and the blade needs sharpening.

Before:














































After:


----------



## ksSlim

Cleaned up nicely! Touch up the iron and make shavings.


----------



## Brit

I'm liking the foot pedal on the manual grinder idea Rick. I'd like to give you advanced warning though that we're going to need some video footage of that creation if you get it rigged up and working bro. )


----------



## donwilwol

Nicely done Rick.

ditto on the videoed foot power hand grinder apparatus.


----------



## Gshepherd

Rick, excellet job on the plane restore. Amazing how much diffrence they look from a paperweight to a solid worker again.


----------



## Mosquito

Rick, I had a similar idea for a hand crank grinder, except I was thinking to use an old treadle sewing machine table as a basis to do it, and have it be "universal" since I've got a belt drive/hand crank scroll saw as well. Would be cool to be able to interchange them.


----------



## terryR

Nice job, Rick…that's a fine looking plane now!


----------



## superdav721

That plane looks good.


----------



## wormil

Thanks everyone. I'm anxious to try it out.

@Mosquito, that's a good idea. Awhile back I emailed someone on craigslist who had an old sewing table, the table was shot but the iron treadle was fine but they had already sold it.


----------



## Mosquito

I was looking at a few of them on Cragslist too. I really like the old treadle sewing machines, they were really quite ornate. And as a result of that, I would only be willing to buy one that was broken beyond decent repair, or better yet, one with out the sewing machine (I've found a few) but I just haven't had the time or spare cash to do it yet.


----------



## OnlyJustME

I've had pretty much the same idea Mos but the cost of one of those treadles is way too much for that around here. 
Thought of making a complete grinding, polishing, buffing station with a bunch of wheels on a mandrel and several bearings.


----------



## donwilwol

I could have gotten an old treadle sewing machines without the machine for $15. I've kicked myself ever since!!!


----------



## Brit

Al's got a treadle going cheap. He tried to do something with it, but I think it all got a bit too complicated for him.


----------



## stan3443

what is that ….....i want a ride


----------



## lysdexic

I wonder how it steers.


----------



## superdav721

You drive it by the seat of your pants.


----------



## wormil

Not even a restoration, just 2+ hours of cleaning although you can barely tell in the pictures.

Goodell Pratt Model 125 Bench Lathe, Special Christmas Edition. That's a joke, some joker painted green over the black, a halfway decent job but an unfortunate choice of colors. I only paid few more dollars for it than it cost new although mine is missing a few things like the original banjo/tool rest (notice the janky 2×4 tool rest that came with it, it amazes me they bothered to paint it red), drive spur, and I don't know what else. Soon I hope to repaint it gloss black and vermilion.


----------



## donwilwol

Looks like a solid lath Rick. Not the colors I'd pick either.


----------



## donwilwol

Looks like a solid lath Rick. Not the colors I'd pick either.


----------



## cabomhn

Here a little restoration I posted up on my blog, a Stanley 60 1/2 low angle block plane..

Link for full post



















































This is my first hand plane and I look forward to expanding my arsenal down the road. Thanks for looking!


----------



## superdav721

I love that lathe. I mean love it! Nice work.
Wonderful plane refurb. It looks like it came right out of the box.


----------



## donwilwol

Sweet looking 60 1/2. Not a bad choice for your first one. May many more come!


----------



## cabomhn

Thanks! I have a no. 5 coming in the mail so I'm hoping to get that cleaned up and ready to go so I have it for use this summer once I'm home from school.


----------



## bandit571

Came by way of Dog sled today…









just a little rusty..









But not TOO hateful…









that some work wit awire brush couldn't fix. What was left of any Nickel plating, just flaked off, just brushed it smooth, and shiny. Brass was also shined up.









Along with all that ugly red paint, that HAD to go. base wasn't to bad. Still have to sharpen the "V" logo iron that came with it.









$6 + S&H…...


----------



## Brit

Restored some old spirit levels today. They didn't need much other than a good clean and a coat of wax. The two larger ones are made of Teak in Germany by Stabila and are 1 metre (39 3/8") and 60cm (23 5/8") long. The two shorter ones are 12" and 9" and are made by J. Rabone and Sons in Birmingham, England. They are Rosewood and brass.


----------



## donwilwol

Andy, I think these are the first levels in this thread. Nice.


----------



## Handtooler

Brit, Wonderful work. Sir. Those are nice. Do you have a source for replacement vials. I have two levels with the chartreuse co;or faded out. One is a small 7" Craftsman aircraft aluminum,torpedo style and the vials could be removed by screws. The other is a 24" "Tennessean" and the vials are held in behind Green ring closures. And, I don't know if they could be replaced or not. Thanks in advance for your reply.


----------



## donwilwol

Handtooler, I just Google replacement level vials. It comes up with a bunch, including eBay.


----------



## chrisstef

Andy, forever spurring new restores. I love the levels. Ive got 2 older wooden ones that need love. Id also like to hear about replacement vials. What did you clean them with?


----------



## CharlesAuguste

Beautiful job there Brit! Enjoy!


----------



## OnlyJustME

very nice levels.


----------



## superdav721

Wonderful Andy, looking good.


----------



## Gshepherd

Andy, sweet lookin levels. Love the torpedo one.

I did one from scratch with some new vials and thin brass plates made out of A. Mahogany so if I run across it when moving stuff I will take some pics for you guys. I do have some small level vials and I will take measurements today cause I do know where they are and if someone needs a couple I could let loose of a few, they are the smaller plastic type. Coming across old levels that are trashed out but with the good bubbles are pretty cheap.


----------



## Handtooler

Don, Thanks! I did also after posting earlier and found several. I shall try to obtain some when I remove the Craftsman ones determine the size.


----------



## Brit

Thanks guys!

*Handtooler* - I've never had to replace any vials, but as you've since found out, they are available on the net.

*Shep* - Yeah, I'd love to see your levels when you can lay your hands on them.

I used the last hour of daylight today to give an adjustable 12" Starret square some attention. I picked this up for under £5 off ebay.



Although it is deadnuts accurate, the rule was difficult to read because it was a bit pitted. The other side with the 64ths is even worse, but I gave up trying to read them years ago.



I degreased it all and sanded it dry from P120 to P1200 using a sanding block. I couldn't get rid of all the pitting, but it is vastly improved and I can now read it.





Then I degreased it, rubbed some waterproof india ink into the graduations and let it dry. Then I applied a few drops of oil and sanded it with P1200 again to take some of the shine out of the surface.


----------



## Brit

*Chrisstef* - Sorry you asked what I cleaned the levels with. I used Liberon Wax and Polish Remover, followed by a couple of coats of clear paste wax. The vials were cleaned woth cotton buds.


----------



## terryR

Very nice job, Andy! And thanks for sharing the secret recipe for cleaning rosewood levels…

Awesome starret, too…£5? jeez


----------



## superdav721




----------



## Brit

The oldies are the goldies Dave. Good job!


----------



## bandit571

Looks good! Reminds me of an Old Millwaukee 1/4" drill I inherited. "D" handled, with that red stripe around the case. Gear box full of grease. Wound up placing a 3/8" chuck on it, never bothered it a bit.


----------



## superdav721

Thanks guys. I had a rainy day and this occupied my time. I think my Dad would have like to have seen them cleaned up.


----------



## OnlyJustME

Nice resurrection. I love the style of them old metal bodies.


----------



## superdav721

Thank you!


----------



## bandit571

Not so much a restoration, as a refresher. A Union #5a (same as a Stanley 5-1/2) was getting a might cruddie, and dull. Handles needed SOMETHING done as well. Brought it up from the Dungeon Shop ( along with two others that were also needing work)









Tore things down to just parts, clean, oiled and put back together…









Sharpened the iron…and went and made some Moxxon TP…









One down, two to go…


----------



## OnlyJustME

She's a beaut.


----------



## superdav721

Nice work!


----------



## bandit571

part two of the three planes…









This time, it's the one in the back row… Took all the parts and started to clean things up..









Blade was out of flat, and out of square, base was getting a bit nasty.









some of the others parts were getting cruddy, after about a year of work…









Fresh coat of black paint, fresh coat of BLO on the handles, bare metal is now rust free, again.









Brass is nice and shiny. That is a Cherry tote, from Don W, if I remember. I took it back to the shop for a test drive on some Hickory edge grain ( as a jointer)









This is a re-built ( new base, and handles) DE#6c. About 18" long. iron has a Shark logo on it, from Lukie…


----------



## GMatheson

I spent a little time cleaning up a 12" square I picked up a while ago. Not really a restoration, more of a cleaning and waxing.



















Now my little 6" square has a big brother.


----------



## donwilwol

man, you've been on a roll G. Nice squares.


----------



## GMatheson

I'm just trying to get caught up on my backlog of tools. The collection has been getting bigger than I thought so they need to be cleaned up and put to work. Here is a mortise marking gauge I did over the last few days.










The brass strips on the face were loose so I pulled them off and CA glued them back in place and sanded the face smooth then gave it a shot of lacquer. The rest of the gauge just got a scrubbing and some wax. I also cut a small hole in the face so that the adjustable pin can hide in there and I can use this as a regular marking gauge too.

I'm not a fan of the screw to tighten everything so I placed an order for a thumbscrew with Lee Valley. It should make it a little more user friendly.


----------



## superdav721

Nice job on the marking and layout tools.
Looking good.


----------



## bandit571

A double bagged package arrived today. inside that "Plain Brown Wrapper"?









a #4 sized plane called "Companion". Took it down to just parts, cleaned them up









Paint job was next, base AND the wood handles needed a refreshing of black. Got things back together..









and took a test drive on some old QSWO..









Turns out that Companion has a twin brother..









Iron on Companion plane does have a Sears part number. 137.37053 DD


----------



## superdav721

great stuff Bandit.


----------



## DocBailey

Here is my latest saw find. I rolled the dice on this one, because (1) I was intrigued by the handle, and (2) it's a panel saw (and I'm always on the lookout for a nice panel saw). What lies under the layer of brown rust is anyone's guess. More pictures to come, once I get this cleaned up.


----------



## donwilwol

you do the "Andy" to that panel saw Doc and it will be one sweet saw. The handle looks almost new.


----------



## CL810

*Andy *- Those levels are beautiful! As if I needed something else to try!! Can't wait to find one (some) to work on.

Brit you're always inspiring.


----------



## DocBailey

just in case anyone's wondering what happened to the follow-up to my rusty saw "before shots" post …
It somehow ended up here
(don't ask)


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^ What the ???










Doc, I really like the path you chose for that rehap. Very nice indeed, and a special saw to boot! Congrats!


----------



## ksSlim

Sweeeeet! Nicely done!


----------



## Deycart

Hey guys, I managed to pick this up this weekend and I was wondering to what level and what methods I should use to clean this. I do NOT want to alter the value of this.

Yes this is a 10 1/4 I picked it up for 20 bucks!


----------



## donwilwol

Man, a #10 1/4 for $20. You suck!!

I'd clean it good, then soak it in evapo-rust, wire brush the bare metal, and it looks like the wood would only need wax. Put the wax on with steel wool or wet sanding. Polish the bolts for the handles.

Sharpen of course, and lets see some shavings.


----------



## bandit571

i watched a #10 go for $227 last night! $20/ +1 on what Don said..


----------



## OnlyJustME

UHHHH Yeah what Don said.

YOU SUCK. LOL 

Nice score.


----------



## chrisstef

You kiddin me with a 10 1/4 for $20 ??!? Ive only seen one in the wild and the guy wanted $200 for it. So yea, what Don said … you suck!


----------



## TrBlu

After four people have already told you, so you know…......

I won't say any more.


----------



## Deycart

I'll start the clean up tonight. Ill post some more pictures after clean her up.


----------



## JayT

That beats any deal I've gotten on a hand plane, so . . . . well, +1 to the others.

Ill post some more pictures after clean her up We will hold you to that.


----------



## wormil

Terrible pics of a (now) nice screwdriver. Polished the metal and made a new handle of spalted maple. Sorry, forgot to take 'before' pictures but it was your basic handle-less old screwdriver blade that most people would have thrown away long ago. Handle finished with oil and shellac. For whatever reason the linseed oil made the handle look dirty. I've used it on this spalted maple before and it was very yellow but otherwise looked fine, not sure what went wrong.


----------



## superdav721

ditto's on the "you suck" comment.
Good luck on the cleanup.


----------



## OnlyJustME

$20 pick up off the C-list. 
Before









After









It's a Wheeler Madden & Clemson #2. 12" blade 14 ppi


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Wow, very nice!!


----------



## OnlyJustME

Been trying to get a decent backsaw for a while (at a good, ok cheap price) and i knew as soon as i bought one from Smitty i would score another. That's murphy's law isnt it? Thanks again for the saw Smitty. I would have posted that one too but it didn't need any restoration.


----------



## ksSlim

Any of you interested in estate tools?
York Tool Auction. Jan. 26, 2013. Holiday Inn York PA. 
. 
They will take absentee bids. about 35 lots of planes.
Several knuckle cap blocks, usual assortment of 4, 5s, couple of 10s and 10 1/2.

Fiberboard planes and lots of 45-55 parts.


----------



## donwilwol

That's in nice shape Matt. Nice restoration!


----------



## paratrooper34

I finally got around to restoring one of several saws I picked up about a year and a half ago. This one is a big Disston cross cut. Not sure what model or vintage; I am not versed in saw dating and identification. Additionally, when I finished putting it back together, I sharpened it. This was my first attempt at sharpening a saw. I have to say, I did something right because it works nicely. I definitely will have no problem going after some sharpening in the future. (Thanks Don and 12strings for the motivation on that!)




























It was kind of rough. The saw plate had some pitting. The handle had no major damage, but looked crappy. I used naval jelly on the saw plate and sanded the handle. I used a buffer on the brass screws. As stated above, I am not familiar with age and brands of old saws. However, the handle is beech and I would have thought being an older Disston it would have had a more quality wood for the handle. Anyone know why it is beech?

Here it is after cleaning up.




























Here is a cut after sharpening. I wanted to see how it tracked as it did not track well prior to restoration. So this cut was made next to a reference mark with no "steering" of the saw while cutting. I am pretty happy with how it did.










I have about ten more saws, guess I better get started!


----------



## Brit

Good for you Mike, nice to see someone else having a go at sharpening their own saws. You made a nice job of that one and I look forward to see the others.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice Mike, that came out great. The tote came out with just the right look.


----------



## paratrooper34

Thanks guys! The handle has a couple of blemishes on it. I figured it would match the blemished saw plate. I now have some confidence with sharpening and am going to tackle my LN rip saw that hit a cut nail on a previous project. Should be pretty easy I think (now anyway).


----------



## superdav721

Cool looking saw Mike.


----------



## Brit

Just won this lovely Scotch brace for £9.99. I was really surprised that nobody else bid on it. They usually go for a lot more than that. (Sellers photos).


----------



## donwilwol

not much restoration needed Andy. Nice sleek lines.


----------



## racerglen

Oh Andy, that's a sweet looker !
D'yh need a darning needle for the socks yet ?
;_)


----------



## Brit

Glen - I not sure I get what you mean re: the darning needle. Please explain.


----------



## OnlyJustME

Very nice Andy. She's a beaut. I don't believe i've ever seen one before.


----------



## donwilwol

Darning needle…...to fix the hole in your socks.


----------



## Brit

Ohhhhhhh, he's talking about my tag line. Now I get it, but it is Scot who has the holes in his socks not me. I got some new ones for Christmas )


----------



## lysdexic

Andy, that brace is outstanding! Do tools not rust in England? It seems they always have a nice patina but are never rusted or pitted.


----------



## planepassion

Andy that Scotch brace is a beauty, nice sexy lines and legs from here till next Tuesday. The brass details are cool too.

Yeah, what lysdexic said. I thought England was this rainy, wet, mist in the air all the time, place. Seems to me that would play hell on all manner of tools.


----------



## Brit

They sure do rust, but it looks like someone has shown this one some love so I don't have to.


----------



## superdav721

Brace yourselves Andy has a drill….....


----------



## donwilwol

yes Dave, but he knows the drill.


----------



## Deycart

Here are some pictures of the 10 1/4.



































I also got my hands on this Ohio tool try plane. I don't have a before but, I have one in work photo. Enjoy!


----------



## ksSlim

Walk off for 2 days and you're behind.
Nice brace Andy, puns in the following comments could use some work.

I'd like permission from several of you to use the links to your blogs.
I'm doing a presentaion for a wood worker group on "re-valueing legacy" tools.

I'd like to "share" your blog links.
Saws, planes, spoke shaves, and draw knives will be the areas of interest.

Thanks in advance.
slim


----------



## OnlyJustME

No permission needed. It's all posted publicly on the interweb.  I should really do that saw restore blog then . . . . . oh, . . wait . . . . . . Andy got that covered


----------



## donwilwol

what Matt said. I post to share.

Deycart, some nice looking planes. The ohio came out great.


----------



## chrisstef

Deycart, that 10 1/2 is no good. Its got holes in the sides and someone stuck a little star thingy on it. Lemme know what ya paid for it and maybe i can reimburse you. I hate seeing guys get a junker


----------



## lysdexic

Stef, that is a very gracious gesture. I am impressed by your humanity.


----------



## chrisstef

You know how i roll brother.


----------



## Brit

*KsSlim* - Feel free to share links to anything I've posted if you want to.


----------



## donwilwol

Stef, it sound more like your trying to roll the brother!


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Andy .. even you are alowed to be lucky from time to time 
but not more than once a year 
nice score …. congrat´s with the new toy

Dennis


----------



## chrisstef

Just jealous thats all lol.

Im looking at that ohio, the more i look at it the more i like it. Bedrock lines on it, quarter sawn fleck, aged gracefully, I really enjoy the work you did to it Deycart. Spot on honestly. If i zoom in thats a Sandusky iron?


----------



## donwilwol

I agree Stef, that's one of the finest wood jacks I've seen.


----------



## Deycart

Stef- Yeah is says Sandusky. When I first saw it I knew it had to come home with me. I've been on the prowl for some woodies that were complete and in ok condition. This was the first one I saw. For some reason here in the NW people have an inflated idea of the value of some tools! I used Watco danish oil and shellac to finish.


----------



## superdav721

The way I feel about the interweb. It is a public place. Anything I post is for public use.


----------



## bandit571

Got a small Millers falls plane this morning









Looking a little grungy around the edges









A little rust, here and there, iron needed a re-shaping of the edge, due to a "reverse" camber. Brass needed a shine, bolts were starting to get a might rusty









I didn't touch the finish on the handles, for now. I got everything cleaned back up, brass is nice and shiny









Plated parts shined back up, iron re-worked, and ready for the oil stones









I even made shavings, without the stones being used









Just wait until I get it sharp!


----------



## superdav721

Nice job Bandit.


----------



## Dozuki31

Here is a restoration i finished up about a week ago. I picked up this saw in the summer at a flea market for $8. I believe it's a Diston D12. It's a pretty nice little saw, measuring at 22". It's my go to crosscut saw right now.

Here's a couple before shots:



















And the after shots:




























I finished the handle with BLO and wax.


----------



## OnlyJustME

looks like it's a No. 12 which were before Disston started using the D nomenclature. More Info here.


----------



## superdav721

Very nice!


----------



## donwilwol

That came out beautiful. Nice job Doz.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

^Yes, a beautiful saw, Dozuki!


----------



## superdav721

Friday Dave is getting a huge lot of tools. And yes there are metal planes involved.
I'll be busy for months. I love it!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Don't forget the little people you've met along the way, when you become a tool mogul…


----------



## donwilwol

Didn't you just get a complete set of plane? You're on a major roll Dave.


----------



## superdav721

Its not a whole set but a damn good start.
I cant wait!


----------



## donwilwol

*Dave, * I don't know if I should congratulate you or call you some nasty names?


----------



## Wiltjason

HA! you guys got me good lol. awhile back i picked up a stanley bailey for 10$. it was in pretty good shape but someone sanded the finish off the tote and the finish in the body was chipped pretty bad. after reading this forum and seeing all the pretty planes on here i figured i would give that old stanely a go. i took it all apart, flattend the sole and the sides, sanded down the frog and know and finished them with BLO. i did some research on the internet and figured out this was one of the ones built after 1930 so i figured it was one of the not so good ones but for 10$ i figured what the hell. i cleaned uo the chip breaker and got the iron good and razor sharp, shaved a strip of hair off from elbow to my wrist and put it all back together. i as pretty proud of my little #4 bailey as i got ready to take it for a test run. i got some poplar out of the scrap bin and put it in the vise and took that little plane for a run. and man let me tell you that thing is a major pile of crap! i couldnt get that thing to cut decent no matter what i did to it. i fooled with it for about 2 hrs and did a real good job of not throwing that thing behind the shop on the railroad tracks. i stuck it under the bench and when and got my #4 veritas out and took a few runs just to restore my faith in hand planes. oh well got a shiney paper weight now lol


----------



## bandit571

Tell you what, send that shiny paperweight over to my little shop. I'll give it a very good home, and even get it working like new. I have done at least 20 or so old rust buckets. They are not that hard to make work.









PM….


----------



## superdav721

Now because of these I have to rearrange a whole wall on my shop.
Don call me anything but late for dinner.


----------



## stonedlion

Wiltjason - I'll second what bandit said. If you want to unload it, I would be happy to give you what you paid plus shipping.


----------



## GlennsGrandson

1969 Delta-Rockwell 6" jointer. Paid $100, in at $250 total with a lot of elbow grease. It is a wonderful machine.


----------



## donwilwol

Wiltjason, any Stanley can be made to work. Anything before 1965 should be fairly easy unless its got a major defect.


----------



## Wiltjason

i know that those stanleys were good planes, i think that there were 2 problems with my restore. 1) im not a hand tool expert but i loe my veritas, so i knew in the back of my mind that even if working properly i wouldnt be using it. 2) im wondering since the tote had been sanded down if it had been taken apart and something went wrong and i didnt notice it since im not that familure with them and just paid attention to how i took it apart 3) im also thinking that some how it pissed its last owner off and he put a voodoo curse on it. for some reason when i adjust the iron it doesnt stay put once it gets to the wood and it pushed the iron back till its not cutting any more. like the adjuster is sloped out to much


----------



## Mosquito

wiltjason, do you start with a heavy cut and retract? I would think that if you start with no cut and advance the iron, it shouldn't push back when it hits the wood, because the depth adjuster will already be engaged with the iron when you're advancing it. Maybe some pictures for us to help diagnose 
-

Grant, that thing looks sweet now. Looks like it found a good home.


----------



## wormil

Grant that's quite the transformation. And to think for years I turned my nose up at old machinery in the rough. I should have been buying and restoring it.


----------



## chrisstef

Same restored jointer here Grant. I think yours came out quite a bit better than mine all though.


----------



## Wally331

@ wiltjason - make sure the blade is bevel down, I've made that mistake once or twice before


----------



## Wiltjason

wally331 i did that, im gonna mess with it some more this weekend i think and see if i cant get it going


----------



## Handtooler

I feel sure with a little more careful adjusting of the frog and blade position it gonns be AWESOME, just like your Veritas.


----------



## superdav721

When I first started using planes I would scratch an arrow on the side letting me know witch way the bevel went.


----------



## Wiltjason

hand tooler i hope so, she sure is shiney and pretty now lol


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Beautiful work, Grant!


----------



## bandit571

Found it laying in the roadway today. Looked like a Traffic hazard to me, Stopped, put on the 4-way flashers to warn other drivers. Walked around and picked it up, before someone hit it with a tire, causing a wreck. My "Good Deed for the Day" sort of thing. Brought it home









Looked like a wood handle, in there, somewhere. Lost count of the different colours of paint, including a gray that looked like Concrete, and a close match for rust. Down to the Dungeon! Maybe i could bring it back to life?









Getting close.









Yep, "It's ALIVE" The black tape on the end is a feature I add to all of my hammer handles. Lets me know when I slide down too far. Handle was sanded clean, and a coat of BLO added. Just a wire brush to the 16 oz head. Don't see any names on it, nothing on it but a trace of red paint. Has a nice balance and feel to it. I think it was worth saving….


----------



## BinghamtonEd

Nice find, Bandit…can't argue with a free hammer!


----------



## DanKrager

Well, I'm very slow at this restoration. I'm learning that I don't enjoy it quite as much as I thought I would. Part of the problem is my stupidity, I guess. OK, inexperience at this really serious rust removal. I found some nice cherry that looked a lot like apple (but I know its source) and cut these handles out. I didn't anticipate how much planing would be required to remove the saw marks and I am left with blanks that are 1/8" too thin. Bummer. 









My rust removal will move along when I receive my long flat dipping tray. I will have brushed the plates heavily with a knotted wheel, working around what's left of an etch. Then a dip and some polishing. It's really messy.
DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I'm not sold on the activity as one I love either, Dan. But you're committed now!  Good luck!


----------



## DanKrager

Where should I look for an apple board 1×7x30? Lowes doesn't seem to have them. 
DanK


----------



## bandit571

I got mine from a plank of Barn Wood


----------



## donwilwol

think of it this way Dan, and 1/8" to think is only 1/16" on each side. I've found apple pretty hard to find.


----------



## DanKrager

I'm finding a few sites that offer it, but it is in the neighborhood of $20 / BF plus shipping. I think I will mill up the rest of my apple tree trunk and sell it! The tree was so dead and so small, that I couldn't get enough to make even one good handle. 
I don't want to use the thin wood because it looks funny and I don't think it will feel right in my hands. And I will always know…
DanK


----------



## donwilwol

I was just kidding about the 1/16", but I would probably rip them in half and laminate a piece in the middle or something like that. Or veneer both sides and feather it off with a contrasting wood. I'd hate to see those handles go to waste.


----------



## DanKrager

The idea of laminating a custom handle will grow on me tonight I'm sure. That would be kinda neat. Thank you for the encouragement, Don. 
The forrestry handle has a bad knot on the other side, so it is waste as it lays. Blind sided! I'll not be in a hurry and maybe some apple will appear. There are some orchards near here. 
There are some old barns, too, Bandit. You did an excellent job on that handle. It looks inviting to use.

DanK


----------



## Wally331

Here's my first restoration, a Stanley No. 5. I got this plane from a friends dad totally for free. Most of the restoration was just cosmetic, refinishing the tote and knob, and a ton of wet sanding to clean up the rusty spots. Luckily for me there was really no pitting anywhere, just surface rust and a dark grey patina. 
Before:



























After:



























Heres the money shot:









After seeing all of the amazing restorations on here, I thought I would have to give it a go. I finished it all in a day except the tote and knob- which has 4 coats of poly and obligatory wax. I spent a fair amount of time shining up the sides, bolts, and the blade assembly. A good general clean-up of all the parts, and it almost looks brand new. But I did leave a little age showing.

I think the plane is from around the 30's, and she makes a great user. I had to use it to thickness all the boards for a bed that I'm in the process of building. I put a huge camber on it so it almost acts like a scrub plane. By the time I was done there was a pile up to my knees!









Thanks guys!


----------



## ksSlim

Great job, happy shavings!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Outstanding pics!!!!


----------



## superdav721

Great shots and great job!


----------



## CL810

The plane looks beautiful. Here is a site for dating and typing Stanley planes.


----------



## wormil

While on the subject, what would be a good alternative to apple for saw handles?


----------



## bandit571

I was using Sycamore on the two I redid









Tried walnut, didn't like them.









Decided to keep the walnut for plane handles, instead









Like these.


----------



## superdav721

Bandit you don't find the sycamore to be a bit weak?


----------



## bandit571

Used this saw the other day, to finish up after the Hybrid saw started to get dull









No problems as yet. I did have a large toothed rip saw, also with a handle like that, but it was sold.









Sycamore came from an old barn/garage beam. Had to navigate around old cut-nails.


----------



## donwilwol

Finally a little shop time. A Ohio Tools #4

Before



















After





































My Ohio Tools Family shot A #4, #5, #6, #7


----------



## Handtooler

Don you sure make 'em look pretty, and I'm sure they tune and cut gosmer strips just as well.


----------



## Brit

Friggin' awesome Don. Nice family photo too. I see you've got so many now that you're even labelling what they are.


----------



## superdav721

I love to see em in a set. Don again you have outdone yourself.


----------



## donwilwol

Thanks Russell

Andy, I've had that label up there for a while. Some I put tags on, especially Stanleys so I only have to type them once.

Thanks Dave.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Those Ohio totes are wonderfully curvacious and beautiful! There's an allure, no doubt. Love the family shot, too. Well done, Yoda!


----------



## CL810

Is it common for steel screws to be used for attaching the brass to levels such as this? The dirt and discoloration was so thick I thought the screws were brass like the plating, but when cleaned up I discovered they were steel. So are these the orignal screws or replacements?


----------



## Brit

Can't say for certain, but I've seen a lot with steel screws so I think it is likely that they are original.


----------



## bandit571

An "orphan" followed me home today. A little worse for wear









A Dunlap #3. When they painted it red, they went all out









Brass wheel, brass bolts for the handles, and a funny looking red thing on the cap iron









Well, after a while down in the Dungeon









Sole is now flat, brass is shiny, sides too! Iron wasn't bad, but that chip breaker needed a LOT of work. Steel bolts are polished up. I left the handles alone, for now. As for shavings









Looks like it can make a few, in Oak.


----------



## CL810

I was inspired by Andy's levels when I saw this one at an auction recently.









The original owner engraved a date and his hometown on the end. It reads "Dec 1882, J C Roberts Boonville." The town being just down the road from where I live, I had to have it.









The main vial is missing so I am in the hunt for a 3" clear vial if anyone has such a thing laying around looking for a home.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice level CL. You can usually find the vials on eBay.


----------



## superdav721

Good looking levels and planes guys.


----------



## Brit

Very pretty. Nothing like a bit of shiny brass.


----------



## Handtooler

CL810, Sir, check Amazon for Level Vials and find "Huide Level Co." They have a huge selection of spirit level vials and professional products.


----------



## Deycart

Found this lot of carving chisels at an estate sale. Picked them up for 5 with out even looking at them. They turn out to be H. Taylor brand with the acorn trade mark. I refinished the handles and put bigger beefier brass on them.









Add Brass Pipe from HD 10$ and about 5 hours.









And you get this.









I used a hacksaw and my drill press + files to do the brass. It took less time than I though. Next time it should take way less time.


----------



## donwilwol

What a transition Deycart.


----------



## Handtooler

Magnificent! And, I suppose you can carve and, thus, put 'em to use?


----------



## Deycart

I have never hand carved a thing in my life.


----------



## donwilwol

Well, now you really don't have a choice.


----------



## Deycart

Yeah, but I need to get all the stuff to sharpen them right. Some one want to give me some slip stones?


----------



## donwilwol

Start with sandpaper over dowels.


----------



## superdav721

You carved some brass and it looks great.


----------



## OnlyJustME

At the recent woodworkers show Paul Sellers showed his trick on how he sharpens profiled cutters and knives/chisels. Using the same chisel you need to sharpen, just carve the edge of a piece of wood. You get the same exact profile needed and then you use sandpaper over that profile. go through the grits needed and then compound directly on the wood to polish.


----------



## Deycart

That would work, but some of the edges are beat up and would not make a good profile.


----------



## DanKrager

That makes a nice looking set, Deycart. If I hadn't just bought a bunch of chisels myself, I would have been interested.
DanK


----------



## superdav721

I managed to get one of my new planes done.




































I did a video and after I upload it i'll show you guys.


----------



## OnlyJustME

looks good Dave.


----------



## BRAVOGOLFTANGO

Great thread Don, I'll post my first before/after restoration of my newly arrived 1892 patent (late 1890s) Stanley SW S-stamped #3 plane. Start this project tomorrow.


----------



## shampeon

No befores here, but I cleaned up my Keen Kutter K620 folding rule.








I used Barkeeper's Friend (oxalic acid, mostly) to brighten the boxwood and remove the tain from the brass. It worked great.


----------



## superdav721

As promised. Skip to the second half of the video and thats about where the plane starts.


----------



## Handtooler

Dave, Great video in its entirety! Thanks.


----------



## donwilwol

Hey Dave. Watched your video on your blog. I like how you hold your frog when filing it. Its different than I do. I may try your way and see if its better or just different.


----------



## bandit571

Dave: Working on the two Orphans this week









Black lever's tote was broke in two, now have it glued up, and starting on sanding it clean of finish. Might be done with these two by Friday?????


----------



## Brit

Great video Dave. Thanks for the tour.


----------



## bandit571

Liked the vid, Dave. As of yet, video cameras haven't reach here in Neanderthal Land.


----------



## superdav721

You guys are a mess.
Your welcome and thanks guys.
Don it just works for me. I can hold the file better.
How do you get this flat?









I cut some small pieces of emery board and and use a dowel to rub it back and forth.
I am thinking get a used frog and apply wet dry paper to the mating surface after I cut it down a bit.
Again thanks fellers. 
Bandit whats up with that white cap?


----------



## bandit571

To get to that area, i usually come up through the bottom.

"White Cap" is actually a light gray. Was, anyway. Under all of that, there is a Kelly Green Toad! Can't call a pressed stell frog a frog, can I?? So, I call them Toads, complete with warts.

"White Cap' has a Brass adjuster wheel, but the #3 in front has a solid steel one?? Don't know IF I can trade wheels…


----------



## CL810

Great video Dave - was that you on the guitar as well?


----------



## superdav721

Oh no, I only wished I could play so well. I made a cigar box guitar once.
Thank you.


----------



## JayT

Dave, valve lapping compound works for those spots. A little dab on each area and work the frog back & forth.


----------



## superdav721

Brilliant


----------



## ShaneA

I use adhesive backed sandpaper Dave. Stick it to the frog, trim excess and rub as JayT suggested.


----------



## donwilwol

Valve compound, but its usually not needed. Check it with some blue.


----------



## bandit571

I have five rear totes to strip and clean. looking for a faster way. Kleen Stripper just foamed up, and left a mess behind.

Got four knobs stripped down. Gancolo still looks great.

Going to start on the Worth's casting tomorrow. Kind of a greenish colour, even the "Toad" is a greenish colour. But, change the angle of the lighting, and it all changes to a blue tint. Lever cap is now a shiny silver colour. Got rid of that grayish white. Maybe Worth made a "Two Tone" like Stanley? In colour anyway…..


----------



## superdav721

Bandit for fast stripping I use a goose necked scraper and give it fits. A tote should take about ten minutes.


----------



## HorizontalMike

I am NOT done with this restoration, but wanted to show you guys my FIRST turning success. Here is a tote and knob I did in White Ash for my pre-1910 Type4 #418 Sargent that I am finally going to refurb. I have had this one in my personal possession for +50yr as a hand me down. I will be re-japaning this thing sometime next week.





































FWIW, I am saving the original Rosewood T&K for another restoration that needs to be more "accurate" in detail.


----------



## bandit571

Two Planes, "Before"









and the in action shots









The "Green Machine Worth #4"









and the Hibbards True Value #3. Still deciding on a finish for the handles. Oh, and underneath all of this red paint?









is some very blond wood









Maybe a fresh coat of RED paint????


----------



## donwilwol

they look really good Mike.


----------



## ksSlim

Welcome to the slippery slope HMike.
You'll love it here.

Bandit-does that "blue boy" have anything that looks like Record on it?


----------



## bandit571

Afraid not. More like a Boston Blue-ins Made for/by Worth Tools. Used to look like









Steel toad and all…


----------



## CL810

Heckuva job Mike. That ash looks great.


----------



## superdav721

Mike I wouldn't have expected any thing less from you. 
Always looking good.
Bandit you left it red. I love it.
Great work guys.


----------



## moke

Very well done Mike…
I wish my first turning looked like that….hell, I wish my last turning looked like that!!!
Well Done
Mike


----------



## bandit571

Awaiting on the SMELLY BLO to cure out, then maybe some good "After" shots of the planes. Stay tuned…


----------



## bandit571

As promised, a few "After shots" ( after that smelly stuff in a blue can)









Millers Falls #8, after a strip of the old finish, replaced by a coat of BLO









Dunlap #3, after handles were refinished. Still thinking about red paint??









Hibbards True Value #3. The tote has since been replaced, by the much better looking one from a Union #4G. It's bolt broke off in the base, so the Union will be sold as "Parts Plane"









A Worth #4. Not sure about that Green/Blue colour. handles have one coat of BLO. maybe something a bit darker???

Ah yes, The Money Shot. How about a group photo?









Wood was an old, full of knots, 2×4. Thanks for looking in..


----------



## superdav721

Looking good Bandit


----------



## bandit571

Ok, a "true" before and after set of pictures. The Before:









Fugly?? And now the "After"









Same pose, even. New tote on the smaller plane, as well.


----------



## superdav721

Outstanding improvement Bandit


----------



## AnthonyReed

˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄˄
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅˅


----------



## Mosquito

Wow, nice work Tony! I would never have guessed the colors of that lol


----------



## ShaneA

Whoa!!! Tony, way to bring it. Amazing transformation.


----------



## lysdexic

Outstanding Tony! So much for being fed up with restorations.


----------



## superdav721

The Tin Man is missing his oil can. That looks good.


----------



## donwilwol

why to lube up that slippery slope.


----------



## chrisstef

Tony for the Wiiinnnnnnn! What did you use to cut all that grime and residue off?


----------



## AnthonyReed

Thanks guys.

Yes Scott, i know. I was at Grandma's house this weekend and went trough some of Granddad's sheds. I couldn't let it stay in the weather so it had to come home with me. I got some files too. Not much metal dust involved in this.

Stef - It was mostly mineral spirits as a solvent then a wire wheel followed by scotch pad & sandpaper.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

niiiiice work Anthony 

Dennis


----------



## dbray45

Nice work Bandit
Tony - be careful of the oily rags from cleaning the oil can

- don't you love it when you buy something that looks really bad and when done - works like a dream


----------



## racerglen

Focus Glen, focus..
On the weekend picked up this little 102, probably a '60s handyman type to go with it's much older brother.
I'd left my camera at work and couldsn't wait to start..









Hush Bandit..I DID overpay, 8 bucks, down from the asking of 10..









I had to do something, the bar over the cap stuck out both sides enough to skin fingers, and that's when it started.
Now the cap's flat on the blade side, and straight across, more filing, grinding to come.
So far test runs interuptus have made nice wee curls on champhering passes.


----------



## donwilwol

nice job Glen. Did you pay cash or finance it?


----------



## bandit571

Maybe I need to get out and about this weekend? As for that Hibbards #3 I rehabbed









Used it to clean up after a bigger plane









Table top is a might too big for block planes, though.


----------



## racerglen

@don ;-)

Just trying to ketchup with Bandit !!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Don LOL… NIce one!


----------



## DIYaholic

Gotta get this *HUGE* rehab into the mix. This was a quick clean, tune & test, not a full restoration. It is a Craftsman, do you think it is a valuable plane??? Lol. I'm a plane rehab virgin, so be gentle. This is the first plane I have tried my hand at rehabbing,or using for that matter!!!

Before:









During (blade flattening):









During (sole flattening):









After:









Money Shot ("Curly" Pine???):


----------



## donwilwol

Some pretty nice curls there Randy. I'd say Bravo.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Some serious value there, Randy!  Very nice job, congrats on having a functional plane in the arsenal!


----------



## DIYaholic

SO, does this make me qualified to offer advice as a "hand plane expert"??? Lol.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Go for it. Your area of expertise is Craftsman mini-blocks.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I've only got this no 8 done with pics for now. I've got about 5 more planes in the works right now. Post more later.


----------



## donwilwol

It looks good BigRed.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Red, there aren't many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris. You've got a nice one there, for sure. Great work!


----------



## chrisstef

^ Sig worthy line from Smitty …. "heft and hubris" ... friggin love it! Stuff like that woulda taken me weeks to come up with, thats a witty smitty.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Just used that no. 8 to flatten my new benchtop yesterday. She worked like a dream. My veritas bevel up no. 7 kept giving me a lot of tear-out on that oak. Which left me scratching my wallet. Here's the next lineup:


----------



## DonBroussard

Nice job on the rehab on that No. 8, BigRed. Yours looks all original and has a lot of life left in it. Plane away!

I have an Ohio Tools No. 08C that a previous owner drilled through the sole to mount the rear tote screw. Still works, but it has that permanent blemish on it now.


----------



## planepassion

Smitth, "Heft and Hubris" is my new watchword…or phrase to be accurate. I'm going to explore opportunities in my social life to use it 

"Dude, that idea is dripping with heft and hubris."


----------



## donwilwol

Yep, that Ohio Tools #8 is shot. You better let me take it off your hands Don. I'd hate to see you get stuck with suck a blemished piece.

Brad, lets see you work it into DIYaholic recent restore. "DIYaholic, , that mini is dripping with heft and hubris."


----------



## CL810

"it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris"

What a manly aliteration. Be honest, did you steal that from Steinbeck??))


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Let's face it, Steinbeck would be too pensive for these forums…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Yes, yes he would. Some well-read, hilarious folks on LJ's. I sure am enjoying it.


----------



## chrisstef

Smitty's quote made my tag line. You sir have jumped into elite status. Bravo, now you will be subjected to association through alliteration.


----------



## lysdexic

A fitting quote for an online forum.

No man really knows about other human beings. The best he can do is to suppose that they are like himself. - Steinbeck


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

It is a proud day, indeed. 

I call this one Heft and Hubris in Cast Iron


----------



## donwilwol

she's a sweat heart…..... literally.


----------



## CL810

OK Smitty that pic is definitely poster worthy! Can't you see it - black poster, pic in middle outlined by thin white border, and in a large Times New Roman font:

*Heft and Hubris
in Cast Iron*

Does that calendar company make posters?


----------



## planepassion

Well….give a man an inch and he'll take a mile.


----------



## ShaneA

Sweet stuff. I had considered myself an educated man, but I have been humbled by the word hubris. Still don't know what it means, but it sounds cool. : )


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Hah!! Brad, I love it!!!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Shane - hubris in context of the #8 is the shame / punishment it delivers to it's victims, ie: boards getting jointed. It's a brute… almost arrogant in it's power.


----------



## ksSlim

I'd buy that poster from Brad!!

Heft & hubris for the rest of of, if you can tune it, lift it, and push it , you're the man.
remember, It's 2 foot of cast iron.


----------



## bandit571

But, they do the job









Seems to do just fine…...


----------



## BigRedKnothead

hu·bris 
/ˈ(h)yo͞obris/Noun
1.Excessive pride or self-confidence.
2.(in Greek tragedy) *Excessive pride toward or defiance of the gods, leading to nemesis.*

That IS how I feel with my 8c in my hands!


----------



## planepassion

Smitty the more I look at your picture the more your photo skills stand out.

I like the depth of field so that the plane in the background is in focus. Plus the lighting, while dark, perfectly picks up the reflection on the Baily and Stanley logos. The shavings add tool ambiance while the light color of your bench in the foreground is a nice contrast to the black metal of the #8. And by cutting off the tip a bit, you emphasize the behemoth size o the plane suggesting, "it's so bit you can't fit it in the frame."


----------



## planepassion

"1. Excessive pride or self-confidence."

That begs the question, How on earth can a man have excessive pride or self confidence?

I would append that to read, "1. Unjustified pride or self-confidence." I've met guys that ooze cockiness without throwing it in your face but have a history of behavior and accomplishments that fully justify that in my opinion. Still, people refer to them as having hubris, or being arrogant. I think that they feel inadequate when standing next to an accomplished person and shift their inadequacy off onto the cocky guy.

Another appending might read, "1. The effusive display of pride or self-confidence." I don't think that simply taking extreme pride in a job well done or the accomplishment of a major goal is hubris. But spiking the company stapler on the floor to rub it in a coworker's face, would be hubris.

Still, to your point Smitty. When a #8 does it, it does come off as hubris. I'm just saying.


----------



## Brit

What's all this about heft and herpes?


----------



## Brit

Oh sorry, HUBRIS. Goes nice with some granary bread.


----------



## ShaneA

It is basically a Hoss Andy.


----------



## Brit

No wait that's humus


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Ah, Andy… Here's a recap.

Take pride in your humus and it's humorous
Joint edges with The Ocho and it's hubris;
Twenty four inches of cast iron is humongous,
And nine pounds of handplane is… well… Awesome!


----------



## Ripthorn

So has anyone here ever restored a Stanley 190? I got one that has japanning in really rough shape. I stripped it tonight, but I am not sure of exactly which parts to mask off besides the non-recesssed parts of the side with the knicker and the last little bit of the iron bed. Does anyone have any good pictures showing what a 190 should look like?


----------



## DocBailey

pictures, Ripthorn, we need pictures!


----------



## bandit571

"Mutt & Jeff"??


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Rip - both sides are flat so those rabbets can be used left or right handed. No fence, but a nicker. No bullnose.

Apply the black of your choice to those recessed areas, as in, think of what would have finish removed if the tool were laid on each side and run over sandpaper. Those areas should be bare metal.

Hope this helps.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Question for Don and the restoration buffs. How do you refinish Millers Falls totes/knob. Originally looks like they have some sort of stain and clear-coat. What do you guys do?


----------



## paratrooper34

I am posting my newly restored #6 to show it off and to see if someone can help me identify it. Yes, it is a Stanley, it is marked Stanley on the blade (if it is original) and on the lateral adjuster (I assume that is original). Here are a couple of pics from before finishing. These show the markings that are on the body and the frog.





































Here are some of the completed restoration.




























I am going to polish the cap iron and blade when I get a chance. Other than that, it is sharp and does a nice job. I have never had a use for a #6 and see this plane occupying a spot for display. Although now that I have it, maybe I will find a use for it. I have one more that just needs some cleaning, painting, and reassembly. I believe it is a newer vintage and that one will go up for sale.


----------



## donwilwol

Mike, The "B" stamp put it 1900-1903 and a type 8 I think. Everything else I can see fits a type 8 as well.


----------



## paratrooper34

Awesome, thanks Don. I had a feeling you would nail it.


----------



## chrisstef

Great lookin rehab Mike.


----------



## paratrooper34

Thanks chrisstef! This was an easy one too. It had barely any rust, just light surface. Cleaned it up and painted it. Polished the shiny bits and called it good. There wasn't a single ding in the tote or knob. I got lucky with this one. I think I may try to give it a workout on the shooting board and see how it does there. Having the extra 3/8" over a #5's blade would be nice for thicker stock.


----------



## donwilwol

I use my 606 a lot. I find it a good size for a lit of task. I'm a little baffled that many people don't care for it.


----------



## ShaneA

My 606 is my favorite plane, but I am a bit odd.


----------



## JayT

Nice job, Mike.

Count me as wierd, too. I really like my 606 for jointing and flattening small to medium sized boards.


----------



## paratrooper34

Thanks Jay, I don't think it is weird or odd at all. I just never had one, well, up until now. I can definitely see its usefulness for jointing small to medium. I got a #7 and #8 and always used them. It is a decent size and it is a little lighter than the jointers. I will have to give it some use, maybe I will be a convert.


----------



## donwilwol

I've got both a 608 and a #8. I tend to use them, or the 606. My #7 almost never comes off the wall.


----------



## planepassion

I am blogging about my Goodell Manufacturing Co. miterbox restoration over here. But thought you guys would like the before/after pics to enjoy over your morning coffee. Remember that this was my sawless, $7.00 find at a handsaw honey hole garage sale last summer.

*Before…*














































*And after…*


----------



## shampeon

Question for Don and the restoration buffs. How do you refinish Millers Falls totes/knob. Originally looks like they have some sort of stain and clear-coat. What do you guys do?

They typically did this for their goncalo knobs and totes in the post-WWII types. Earlier ones were cocobolo, although they did use stained beech during WWII.

Personally, I think the goncalo is beautiful without that red varnish. I just use amber shellac or natural Danish oil.

But if you want to recreate it, I'd buy some cherry red TransTint dye and mix up some of your own varnish with BLO, poly, and mineral spirits. Some people do 3-2-1, others 1-1-1. Start out with just a few drops of red dye and start testing it on the bottom of the tote. Keep adding dye a few drops at a time until it's the right color, but KEEP TRACK of the drops and your BLO/poly/spirits volume so you can recreate it later.


----------



## racerglen

Brad that's an awsome job !


----------



## donwilwol

Ian, I agree the goncalo is beautiful buy itself and the red dye is a pain. These are not the same plane but you get the idea.



















Brad, nice job on the Goodell. It came out great.


----------



## CL810

Brad, that is simply fantastic. This early in the day, it did give me a little envy nausea .


----------



## bandit571

I MIGHT have to re-do the tote on this one









Came out nearly black, with just the BLO added to it. Same level of stripping as the knob, too. They do like them stripes on the knobs…









But why did the tote turn black????


----------



## racerglen

I've had the same issue, different woods ?
Maybe different ages , like an older tote than the knob ?

Hmmmm..


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Thanks Ian and Don. I love me some Millers Falls.


----------



## bandit571

Stripped both handles back to bare wood on the M-F #3









looks like an issue with the wood itself. Knob cleaned up real nice, the tote??? It is down to the bare wood, and still dark.

Ps: iron was a bit dull, too


----------



## shampeon

Bandit: goncalo will darken with age, but as you can see there's a lot of natural variation. I like the swirls of colors on that tote. Just a natural finish oil on the knob & tote would look outstanding.


----------



## racerglen

Here's the finished product on my 8 dollar handyman 102









Never seen THAT blue before, it's orriginal but I did repaint the cap..electric blue ?
The lady who sold it to me said it was from a kids tool set..maybe so..60's anyway









And, wouldn't you know it, the shavings shot's on the home computer..
Not sure what to make of the no name blade..slightly thinner than my much older 102 and narrower, but it
does take an edge.


----------



## superdav721

Nice work guys


----------



## Moai

these are a couple of planes I have restored, I hope yo like the work I did:

















German Made Scrub, Columbia Iron.













































Stanley #10 Carriage maker's rabbet plane.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice work Francisco. The repair on the #10 tote came out perfect.


----------



## racerglen

Now that's fine work !
Francisco, love the wood restore and wow that #10 looks great !
Nice to see a 10 that's survived all these years without need of brazing !


----------



## DocBailey

Francisco
+1 on the amazing tote repair on the #10
The grain in that tote is rosewood at its best.
And kudos for a really tasteful rehab which looks totally natural.


----------



## waho6o9

That's a nice skill set you have there Francisco, 
those rehabs came out flawless, very nice work.


----------



## lysdexic

Francisco, very nice results. What finish did you use on the knob and tote?


----------



## eao2012

HMike, that ash turned beautifully! and Tony, you did a great job with the oil can! I would have completely passed that up without realizing the potential it had.


----------



## Moai

thanks for the comments!
lysdexic I use Blonde shellac (the one Ron Hock was selling for some time), I love the way it matches the age of old tools.


----------



## superdav721

Francisco you do wonderful work.


----------



## superdav721




----------



## donwilwol

another great watch Dave.


----------



## paratrooper34

Here is my latest. My dad sent me an old #5 that he got from his shop teacher back in the 50s. I don't know what type it is, but the kidney bean lever cap hole suggests not old. Anyway, this plane was pretty rough. It had two coats of thick paint on top of the jappaning, yellow and white. It had a broken tote and some minor pitting in the sole. The second one is a double ended Fulton block plane. Don't think I will ever even use it, but since I was restoring the one my dad sent me, I figured I would spruce that one up as well. It had also been painted a green color over the jappaning, but it is in decent enough shape. Gave them both a bath in the electrolysis bucket and got them cleaned up. I lapped the soles on them to get them cleaned up (as mentioned in another thread, I am not big on lapping a #5, but this one needed to get cleaned up). I polished all the parts and pieces and they look pretty good now. I just need to hone the blades and then I am done. 
Here are some before pics:























































Here are some afters:


----------



## donwilwol

they look great Mike. Nice job


----------



## JayT

Sweet, Mike. Great job.


----------



## paratrooper34

Thanks guys! I have a Record 4 1/2 coming in the mail and that will be next project. It is in decent shape but it will need to be freshened up some.

Don, one of your restoration blogs said you use Duplicolor paints for your planes. Where do you get it from?


----------



## jap

good job


----------



## donwilwol

Mike, I get mine from a local NAPA store.


----------



## superdav721

WOW Mike that is a great job


----------



## BinghamtonEd

Here is my first plane restore (well, cleanup).
I picked up this Union 4G for $20. I didn't put a whole lot of time into it as I needed it right away for a project. Just a quick bath in rustoleum, cleaned up the knob & tote, flattened the sole and sharpened the blade. This is also the first time I've used a plane that was properly set up and sharpened, and I feel like it is going to indeed be a slippery slope. Next in line for a refresh will be my Stanley 26. Tested it out on some Pine, then gave it a real sharpening, and it cut through black walnut with ease.



















P.S. Yes, my garage/shop is a disaster. Once I finish up this project, I will have time to build the drawer for the cabinets I built (in the background).


----------



## JayT

Nice job, Ed.

Welcome to the Slippery Slope Asylum. Next thing you know, you will have no extra time or money 'cuz all will be spent on ebay checking out planes. I'm told there might be a cure, but no one has reported successfully completing the program yet.


----------



## paratrooper34

Ed, for not spending a lot of time on it it sure looks nice. Great job!


----------



## donwilwol

It does look great Ed . I'm sure we'll be seeing more.


----------



## BinghamtonEd

Question about the upcoming rehab on my Stanley 26…if the wood sole is determined to need some flattening on the bottom, and the top is flat, can I just pass it through my DW734 to flatten the bottom, taking off a hair at a time as to not open the mouth more than necessary? Or maybe I'm just as well off flattening it on sandpaper like my metal planes…


----------



## donwilwol

I've never tried that Ed, but can't think of a reason its not a good idea. Just take a very little if possible. You don't want to open up the mouth if you can help it.


----------



## BinghamtonEd

Thanks, Don. My original idea was to do what I usually do, draw random chalk lines all over the face, then pass it through only until the last of the chalk is removed. After thinking further about it, it is a small piece and although I don't normally have noticeable snipe, but it might just be safer to do it by hand.


----------



## bandit571

That nicely done #4 might work on that wood body a little better than a power tool would.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Good job Ed. Your in trouble now. You'll find it's not too hard to accumulate some good planes on the cheap this way.


----------



## BinghamtonEd

I think you're right, Dan. There's a antique/consignment store between home and work, and I think they recognize me now. I stop by about once every 3-4 weeks and see what new items have come in. It's the kind of place where nothing is organized and you have to do some digging, but once in a while you find something worth keeping. I found a nice round wooden chiseling mallet there for a few dollars. Supposedly it used to be used to press grapes or something. I don't know if it was or not, but it had a chunk busted out of the handle, which caused it to fit my hand like a glove.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Right. But if a guys not careful, he can spend more restoring as well (set up with grinder, wire brush wheels, evaporust) Nevertheless, old grinders and such can be found cheap if you take your time. 
Also helps to research and know what your looking for. I look stuff up with my smartphone right there in the flea market sometimes;-)


----------



## donwilwol

But all those tools het used for more than just restorations. Not sure I could live without a grinder even if I never restored another plane.


----------



## Deycart

I just did a major restore on a Bedrock 603, It has quite a few pictures in it and I didn't want to oink up the form. Here's the link.

http://lumberjocks.com/Deycart/blog/34986


----------



## Kwit

Here's my Unisaw - mid 90's - not too much involved here - just wanted to add it


----------



## superdav721

Deycart that was cool.
Kwit that delta lives again.
Great work guys.


----------



## CL810

There's something about a Unisaw that says "bring it on!"


----------



## bandit571

Got a "Jack Plane" while on a Rust Hunt









It has some "Issues"









Ground a camber on the iron, refinished the handles









Awaiting a coat of red paint.









Almost the same size as another of my jack Planes


----------



## HorizontalMike

Don't want to give away the bank on this one just yet, but here is the Sargent418 Type1 NAKED and Re-Japanned. I was gona' tell you that it cost me $18.49 off of fleaBay, HOWEVER, it also came with a Type3 #107 Block plane as well. Bottom line is that this Horseshoe Lateral Type2 418 ended up free! And Heckel puts its value at $300-600. Needs a new tote and japanning, but wow, fleaBay is still worth keeping an eye on… *;-)*


----------



## superdav721

Looking good guys.
Bandit you never stop.
Dont


----------



## donwilwol

*COME ONE MIKE!!* I really need to avoid ebay for a while.


----------



## planepassion

Yeah HorizontalMike! Don't forget the code. Friends don't let friends shop eBay…on even numbered Tuesdays…


----------



## CL810

*HM *- What/who is Heckel?


----------



## HorizontalMike

Uh, CL810, what is Sargent? But no, truthfully, if you collect/use Sargent handplanes at all then you should know and understand David Heckel's Sargent Planes Identification and Value Guide. Kinda' like the Stanley Bible… And that is just the beginning… Get your wallet out… *;-)*


----------



## Deycart

I got this Union 41 a while back on ebay and finally got around to finishing it up and trying it out.




























After



















And the money.shot


----------



## Ripthorn

Here's my contribution (and first restores). They consist of a Type 12 #4, Type 14 #5, and Type 9 #7C along with a Stanley 190. The #5 was in really great shape save for a small run in with some acid (couple large pits in the sole and some damage to one side and frog). The #7C was also in great shape, just needed a good cleaning, stripped japanning, and some new paint. The 190 got stripped and rejapanned, and the #4 was a $13 ebay win that needed a deep clean, but japanning is still in great shape. And now the proof:

Here you can see the #7C, #5 and #190 along with a badly beaten framing chisel (that I got for $1) that is in the works:









#5 still had some of the original decal on the handle:









Large pits on the sole of the #5









Because the tote still was in such good shape, the #4, #5, and #7C all got matching cherry totes and knobs.


----------



## Ripthorn

Now for the #4 (enough pics in the last post, no?).

Oh, and one last shot of the 190:


----------



## JayT

Ripthorn, you've been busy. Restores look awesome, very good save on that #4.


----------



## lysdexic

Deycart,

That Union 41 looks awesome. Did you sandblast it?


----------



## CL810

*Ripthorn* that's some good work - the totes and knobs turned out great!


----------



## Deycart

Nope, 95% is the original nickle. I just used some metallic spray paint and some tape to mask of the undamaged areas. Then I "aged" the new paint to make it match. I only painted the top of the handle, right between the blades and the sides of the fence. Its really hard to tell even in person.


----------



## TerryDowning

Refurb question.

Getting around to fefurbinshing this Jack Plane that I've had for a long time. One of my Dad's. Pretty sure it's a Montgomery ward's Lakeside The iron has LakeSide on the top. The blue color of the bed leaves me to believe Stanley manufacture mid to late 1960s

Anyway, here's my question. Should I remove the paint where the bed contacts frog and remove paint where the iron contacts the frog? Obviously I'll flatten the metal once the paint is removed. Does it matter? I plan on putting a heavy camber on this iron 8" or so. I'm not worried about gossamer shavings from this one, it will never be a smoother but rather a material remover.









Just looking for thoughts and opinions.


----------



## donwilwol

Terry, the frog rides on the 2 outside rails. You can see the wear is only on the front and back. I'd get that to seat full length. Leave the paint off it when your done. I'd do it with grinding compound, but any method will work.

If you'r going to make it a jack, it probably doesn't matter, but I'd do it anyhow.


----------



## bandit571

A little #4 sized plane arrived today. Got it apart to do a little cleanup









Not very pretty









Millers Falls plane, with a "302' stamped in the base. Frog was cracked, as well. might as well clean the rest up









Not too thrilled about the "primer gray" lever cap, might have had, at one time, a decal with a big red "V" in it. Sometimes called a "Value Line" plane. Gray paint MIGHT be history…

As for the rest of the story









No numbers engraved into the sides. Not a biggie.









And a look under the hood. You might see a crack or two in that frog. Iron has been through the sharpener. rust removed. Just a $9 plane.


----------



## Deycart

Found this little guy and thought I should take him home and get him cleaned up.
































































I tried him out a bit and it was hard to set the depth of cut on it, but not too hard to get it to get a nice wide shaving. This thing can NOT take a deep cut it will just want to bounce up. I did find a great use for it and that's cutting the chamfer on a board.

Did a little research and it turns out to be a Sargent 105.


----------



## donwilwol

i love that little guy!!


----------



## lysdexic

I need to get a squirrel tail. I think they would be great for chamfering edges.

Great pics.


----------



## HorizontalMike

YOU RAT, erh uh "squirrel…!

*;-)*


----------



## Deycart

Just look at him all bashful..


----------



## superdav721

I see squirrels!


----------



## Timbo

As found Jackson steel back saw:



















Sadly the saw plate was too pitted so it was replaced.


----------



## CL810

Jim that handle cleaned up great - great looking saw!


----------



## superdav721

Sawtastic!


----------



## bandit571

As for that $9 plane:









A trip along a pine board.









Early 60s "V" line plane, about the time they went with Black handles again.


----------



## racerglen

Still snarlin' at mine Bandit, the one with the tote bolt snapped off in the bed. Nice work on that one !


----------



## JayT

Tim, nice restore on the saw.

Deycart . . . . Squirrel! . . . . . Sorry, got distracted. Looking good on the bitty . . . . Squirrel!

Great, now you will have me quoting UP all day long.


----------



## Brit

Nice find on that Jackson Tim. It looks fantastic now.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I don't think I do near the job some of you guys do on these restores but I give em a shot anyway. Got most of the planes from this mugshot refurbed between furniture builds:









The japanning on the no. 6 was good enough, and the no. 4 1/2 pretty nice, so I left them. The no.4 went to a newbie friend. The SB 5 1/2 became a donor, due to a big chunk out of the body. The Union 5A, the K5, and the blocky were all rough or crudely painted, so they got stripped and repainted. The Union 5A is still in the works. The paint still cracked/wrinkled on a 2nd coat, even after waiting a week. Grrrrr. 
I worked really hard on the K5, and I'm very excited about that plane. That bedrock frog is the shizzle. 

























Time to get back to working wood rather than metal for a while. Gotta knock out a few commissions….so I'll have money….for more planes;-) Peace out, Red


----------



## jap

nice restore


----------



## OnlyJustME

I can smell you.


----------



## Deycart

Check this Squirrel tail out on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Squirrel-Tail-Plane-Antique-Hand-Plane-Cast-Iron-Wood-Parts-Restoration-/350735382421?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51a9753795


----------



## racerglen

What the…..


----------



## amite

When I try to buff my plane's side, a tar-like residue is left, which I have to use mineral spirits to remove. Is this caused by using the wrong kind of buffing compound?


----------



## TerryDowning

Too much compound. Clean your wheels and apply just a little bit of compound.


----------



## terryR

Been a long time since I rock and roll…

Shameless post to get to the bottom of the thread…too far behind to get caught up. My punishment is all the great stuff I've missed the past couple of months! 

Anyhow…Stanley No.110 before…








...and after a day of cleaning…









I used Liberon wax remover and wet sanded the knob with 220 grit paper, then up to 1500 grit. No finish applied after that. I also spent at least TWO HOURS sharpening the old iron…









I'm starting to like these little block planes.


----------



## chrisstef

Terry busting out the Zepplin. Stef likey. Also likes the 110. I honestly pushed these little planes to the side more times than i can remember but as soon as i tuned one up i realized how handy these little suckers are. Nice refurb brotha.

Lemme get back, lemme get back, to the place where i come from.


----------



## DocBailey

Deycart's post reminded me of a little incident from last summer. I was visiting friends near Philly, and made them stop so I could check out a "neighborhood" garage sale. I picked up the flat bottomed (No. 100) at one house, and then, 11 houses away, picked up the convex-soled 100½.
Strangely I paid twice as much for the 100 as I paid for the 100½. [the latter was $.50]


----------



## Handtooler

Doc Bailey, Were you arrested for grand theft? Cause ya certainly stole 'em.


----------



## HorizontalMike

I got this Sargent along with a #418 TYPE 2 Horseshoe plane for all of $18.49 plus shipping. This is a Sargent #107 Type 3 block plane and is probably worth the cost on it's own. The other plane is maybe ~$300-$600. I'll let you know about that one later…


















New knob made out of Escarpment Black Cherry from my own property. Calls for "fruitwood" so I thought this fit the bill… Cut this maybe 4-5 years ago. Small sucker growth, turned vertically around center of the stem/tree.

















Do notice the modification that was needed to allow the stripped screw to work as original. Other than being white, this works great. Sometimes these things really do almost wear out. Not original, but makes this plane perform like new. I guess that makes this one a keeper huh…









*QUESTION:
This block plane came with a blade sharpened at 45-degrees angle, and I could only find that useful on end grain. What do you find as a normal angle for sharpening these block plane blades?* It almost seems to be vertical to the grain being planed…


----------



## donwilwol

Geez Mike, I have to look, I think I have one of those blocks. Nice restore. I like the knob.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Don, Any idea on the 45-degree blade grind? Seemed quite steep for normal smoothing, but works on end-grain. I copied the angle when re-sharpening, until I know otherwise. FWIW, already have a low-angle BP for other stuff.


----------



## donwilwol

Mike, I've never heard of sharpening a block at 45deg. But then I've found some really odd angles on stuff.


----------



## hong

Don how long did you soaked it in evapo-rust and did it turn the metal into a dark color ?

Dave did you use a wire wheel on that router plane and did you painted that .I did mine with the wire wheel and it came out like a bronze color .


----------



## donwilwol

Don how long did you soaked it in evapo-rust

Which Don?

I typically soak my stuff overnight and yes it turn metal black, but its easy to brush out.


----------



## shampeon

The black stuff is iron sulfate, converted iron oxide/rust. Same stuff used to ebonize wood with steel wool/vinegar. As Don says, you can wash or brush or wire wheel it off. Stains your hands, though, so I use nitrile gloves.

Why do the acid treatment if you're going to wire wheel it anyway? First, the acid will neutralize the rust in every nook and cranny. Second, iron sulfate is easier to wire brush away.


----------



## Deycart

I sharpen my regular block planes to 25 Pri 30 Sec. If the blade stays good I go lower if not I go up.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Makes me wonder if the 45-degree grind on this #107 blade (NOT final planing angle) was on purpose (special purpose) and only used for end-grain?... The original blade grind looked very nice and almost like an original grind, though the blade adjustment screw was worn out… What makes me feel that this was 'original' is that this was picked up at an estate sale with a very original Type 2 Horseshoe #418 with a Type-1 casting. One or the other could be suspect, but BOTH from the same estate, lends a degree of credibility and purpose.


----------



## donwilwol

Or it could be that one guy sharpened his stuff at 45. I haven't heard of any thing coming out of the factory at 45. That's not to say it never happened.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Long read, but useful information:

High Angle Smoothing Plane Comparison -- by Lyn J. Maniameli June 2002


----------



## bandit571

From a rusty & crusty $8 Antique Store find









add in a little clean up









and add a camber to the iron









A Corsair #C-5 Jack Plane returns for duty.


----------



## bandit571

Seem to be on a Jack plane kick in the shop:









This Dunlap #5 showed up today, and after maybe two hours of clean-up


----------



## CL810

Parts Question. I have this mortise guage that I would like to recondition and put into use. It is missing the thumb screw for tightening the shoulder.









Here's where I need the help. I don't know how this type of mortise guage works. On the inside it has a "sqaure" socket to hold, I'm guessing, a nut that keeps the thumb screw in place.









Is that how it works?


----------



## ksSlim

Some of those used a square nut, it looks like you may be missing a pin to capture the nut.


----------



## Deycart

Got quite a few lined up today.































































I have a hankering for the various plane mechanics and this one was on my list. I got it for for nothing when I got the Sargent 105 plane from before. I didn't want to get too crazy with this one, I really just cleaned it up, scraped the rust, and refinished the handles. I left the original crappy sanding slash dye job on the wood because it looked cool.




























And a few block planes all are Stanley 2 18s 1 19 and a 60 1/2. The extra less shiny 18 is for a buddy of mine. Sorry no before shots, I have had these for quite a while and I finally got them done!


----------



## TerryDowning

CL810 - The square in your mortise gauge is for a small block of wood. The thumb screw compresses against the block which in turn compresses the bar and locks it into place. The block keeps the thumb screw from damaging the bar.

To replace, just prepare a block of the same dimensions, once you have a replacement thumbscrew. Start your thumbscrew, place the block in the opening, slide the bar iin place to retain the clamp. Snug down the thumbscrew to fix the bar in position.


----------



## CL810

Thanks *Terry*. The threads are completely, and I mean completely gone. The only way I could fix it would be to insert a plug and then tap new threads. I think this is going in a drawer until I come across a MG at a flea market or auction that I can rob parts for it.

Some nice pics *Deycart*!


----------



## OnlyJustME

Picked up this little Fulton 3709 (same as stanley #3 i think) off of ebay a little while ago. Total cost was 14.50 to my door.

I see so many planes with the blade sticking so far out. I have no idea why some one would do that.

































Then i discovered one of the reasons









According to the rust pattern it was this way for a very long time. Don't know how it was ever used.

















After an evaporust bath and a wash.

























Then after a sharpening of the iron (sand paper from 100 to 2000 on a piece of 3/4 plywood) and a little work on the sole, it works nice.

















I didn't do any work on the knob or tote yet and still a bit more fettling to do. I'll do more at a later date.


----------



## donwilwol

it looks like its working as planned…..............


----------



## BinghamtonEd

*"I see so many planes with the blade sticking so far out. I have no idea why some one would do that."*

It's useful when you need to remove a fair amount of stock, quickly. You extend the blade about 1/4" or more, set it on the end of the board, walk back about 10 feet, and get a running start. Also helps to add a primal scream for a little extra oomph.


----------



## donwilwol

I see so many planes with the blade sticking so far out. I have no idea why some one would do that.

That's so you don't scratch the sole if you slide it along the concrete.


----------



## OnlyJustME

Ed that cracked me up so much. especially the primal scream. roflol

the nice thing was the edge was in pretty nice shape considering. no nicks or gouges.


----------



## DonBroussard

@OJM-Good job on the restore.

@Bing-Nice visual on the description of the Man and Plane with Running Start. I LOLed too.


----------



## bandit571

OJM: That base looks a lot like a Millers Falls one I had just finished up, also with the "302" on it.









Mine had a different stamp on the tote, though









Just a little different…


----------



## shampeon

Yeah, that's definitely a Millers Falls-made Fulton. The model stamp on the cheek, lateral adjust lever, and the target ring around the knob are all pretty good giveaways.


----------



## OnlyJustME

that lateral adjuster is a good bit loose now and rattles in use. i'll have to see if i can tighten it up with some how.


----------



## superdav721

OJM nice work
~
t's useful when you need to remove a fair amount of stock, quickly. You extend the blade about 1/4" or more, set it on the end of the board, walk back about 10 feet, and get a running start. Also helps to add a primal scream for a little extra oomph.
RITFLMAO


----------



## Kimchi4u

Here is my first ummm….restore. Before anyone suggests that I've committed a deadly sin to this poor Dunlap (which I probably have), my 4 year old daughter took part in this project and insisted that I paint the knob and tote the color that you see. Now, on to the question…it looks like someone hit something electrical with the plane and I have a couple of battle scars on the sole and one cheek. They will gouge if I do use it. What's the best way of getting this thing flat?

Oh, and I know that it's missing the iron. The iron is my carpentry apprentice shop awaiting its turn on a tormek. I figured I'd spoil myself for the next 6 weeks until I have to go back to the old way of sharpening.


----------



## bandit571

Getting rid of those marks is easy, IF you have a beltsander handy.









As for the handle colour









They came that way. They can be stripped









but whatever was on them is very nasty stuff.


----------



## BinghamtonEd

KimChi, nothing wrong with the color. As a man with a baby girl, if she asked me to use that color, I would. I think you'd be missing a good daddy/daughter opportunity if you said no. Plus, it keeps her interested in the hobby.


----------



## BinghamtonEd

KimChi, as far as the damage, it looks like someone welded a bit too close to the plane. If its above the surface, you should be able to file it flat no problem.


----------



## CL810

*KimChi* - that plane is a Good Dad badge!


----------



## bandit571

Ok, something a little different, for a change. I had a couple old 14" back saws. No time or files to sharpen ( and one needed straightened) and they were DULL!









Menards was selling saw blades









So, for about $6, and a lttle work work a grinder to copy the outline of one of the DULL saws, and a drill press to drill three holes, once the handles was remounted, I think I have a useable saw until I can afford a NEW, AND IMPROVED saw.









For now, this works very nicely..


----------



## DaddyZ

Bandit^ you should be called McGyver


----------



## bandit571

Needed a sharp backsaw, and this was a way to stop using this









Just to cut a few 45s…..


----------



## CL810

Very resourceful *Bandito.*


----------



## HorizontalMike

Here is a very quick 24hr refurb on a $15.50 FleaBay 409VBM. Japanning looks pretty good, so I may stop at this point… maybe just do the frog… Hmm…


----------



## donwilwol

Nice Mike…..


----------



## Handtooler

You certainly do extremely nice and beautiful work in your restoration projects. Thanks for sharing 'em with us.


----------



## chrisstef

Mike - youre starting to give me a hankerin for some Sargent planes. Sharp lookin job man.


----------



## DonBroussard

@HMike-Nice restore. How do you (and other plane restorers) get all the little dirt hiding places in the body to clean up so well? I've tried Scotch pads, small wire brushes, air nozzle and other methods and mine still don't come out as clean as yours. I'm doing a Millers Falls 22C now and I'm having trouble evicting all the dirt out of the inside corners.


----------



## donwilwol

Don, you can see a variety of ways I go through them here. Sometime a sand blaster, sometime a wire wheel, sometimes an old wood chisel.


----------



## bandit571

Sometimes just a stack of Q-Tips with some cleaner on them. I also have a brass toothbrush, just for scrubbing things out.


----------



## DonBroussard

Code:


Don W and

 bandit-I've tried the brass toothbrush before with unsatisfactory results. I'll try the small wire wheels and/or the old wood chisel if the Japanning is not worth keeping. Thanks for the tips.


----------



## JayT

To clean out just dirt, I use one of these:










I find that most crud will come off pretty easy after an Evaporust bath. Even paint spatters soften up and come right off.

For stripping japanning, usually an old chisel.


----------



## superdav721

Soda blaster at Harbor Fright. Best damn 15 bucks I ever spent.


----------



## bandit571

Got a $3.21 handsaw today, and even walked to the store and back with the saw









Not much to look at









So a clean up was done tonight, before any more rust showed up









Haven't done anything to the tote, yet









Brass has been spun into a purple 3M pad. Got things back together









About 26" long. Sorry, no etch was found. Seems to be about 7-8ppi. Medallion says it it a Phoenix patented (Eagle) Warranted saw.


----------



## ksSlim

Mike-Just tell em a bathtub works!


----------



## HorizontalMike

I just cleaned this 409C with denatured alcohol and Q-tips in the corners. I usually run an electrolysis bath and strip everything and then use wire brushes and the like. This time the japanning looked good enough to keep so I took it easy. As far as the sole, I started with my 4×36 belt sander to flatten and square it. If I had totally stripped the japanning then I probably wouldn't have needed such aggressive measures on the sole. IMO, it is a tradeoff of time savings. Electrolysis saves nearly all of the metal on the sole and can preserve even the milling marks, if they are still present. On a "user" that is not really a concern.

That said, I did however, run the cutter, chipper and lever cap through the electrolysis bath for about 24hr or so and then wire wheeled them with my Dremel. I need to find a cheaper way to wire wheel these though. The Dremel tips are over $4 each and I end up going through probably two of them on each plane restore. On some of the nooks and crannies you just have to use a Dremel, but other larger areas not so much.

Any ideas out there?


----------



## superdav721

Mike try the soda blaster. It uses baking soda. It is not as abrasive as sand. Almost as good as walnut shells. It will not remove good metal and it gets in the nooks and creases. A box of soda is 50 cents and goes a long way. Just drag your air hose outside and get some safety glasses.


----------



## DonBroussard

Thanks for the cleaning tips. I have an electrolysis bath set up and I run the iron parts in the bath after I remove the loose rust and mill scale. I like the Q-tips and DNA technique, and I have both of those items already. I also like the soda blaster idea-might pick one up today if I find one at a reasonable price. I don't have a belt sander so I flatten the sole and sides with sandpaper on a granite slab. I might see if I can pick up a belt sander while I'm out hunting for rusty old cast iron tools today.

I cleaned and polished up the Miller Falls 22C yesterday. I'll post pics of the reassembled plane, sans the tote and knob-my brother wanted to redo those himself, so it'll be a partial post.

Later . . .


----------



## HorizontalMike

Oops, I meant to say "409VBM" above in post #1497. I got 'corn-fused' because I also picked up one of those today (409C) that I will be refurbing. *;-)*


----------



## pete57

amazing


----------



## JayT

Got a couple of recent purchases cleaned up and ready to go.

Stanley #71

Before










After. Really nothing more than a cleanup on the metal parts, though the knobs were sanded down, stained and finished.










and a Type 11 #4

Before










After. Repaired the tote (very clean break) sanded down the knob and tote, then refinished with BLO. Other than that, a general clean-up, tune up job.



















And a test run on some red oak.


----------



## CL810

Very nice Jay.


----------



## donwilwol

excellent JayT


----------



## DonBroussard

As promised earlier, here are the pics of the Miller Falls 22C I'm rehabbing. My brother still has the tote and knob, so you'll have to imagine what it looks like with the wooden parts. I painted the interior of the body with flat black enamel and put clear coat over that. I used auto body enamel for the frog.

Sorry. No "Before" pics. I thought I had some before I started the rehab, but I was wrong.




































The lever cap is split at the front. First such one I've seen.


----------



## shampeon

Dan, all the Miller Falls planes except Type 5 have the hinged lever cap. The lever cap originally had red paint in the recess, so you can use the same paint you used on the frog if you want.

Nice restore.


----------



## DonBroussard

@shampeon-Thanks for that info. I'll have to pick up some red enamel for the Millers Falls lever cap and some yellow for the Stanley 5-1/4 lever cap I redid last week.


----------



## Airframer

My Frankenstein Craftsman/Stanley parts plane build.

Before..










Where I am at so far..


----------



## terryR

JayT, nice work on that routah and no.4! Poor lil Type 11 has so many patent dates cast in the body, there's not enough room for my 5 thumbs to grab the tote. 

DonB, that MF is looking fantastic! I love seeing the original colors back on the vintage tools!

Hey, SuperDave, does that soda blaster really work? How long have you owned it? I'm seriously shopping for a small 'blaster cabinet from Grizzly…but for $15 maybe I need to re-think my tool wants!


----------



## superdav721

terryr it works great for small pieces. You will need a compressor to handle it. They have 2 models. I have had it for 1 year and it is great for cleaning a tool. It will not do what electrolysis will do but it will get in the tight spots. Again for 15 bucks you can not beat it.


----------



## GMatheson

Here is a little before and after of my *Type 11 No6C*


----------



## GMatheson

And here are the after photos of my *Ohio No 08*




























I forgot about taking any before photos since I've been tinkering with this one for a while. When I first got it the only thing I thought was wrong with it was a big chunk broke out of the mouth behind the blade.

Once I got it home I realized that the cap screw was actually just a bolt with a nut on the back holding everything together and the threads in the frog were completely stripped so I tapped some new threads and made a new cap screw from a bolt I had laying around.

After that was fixed I noticed that "Y" adjusting lever was ground off at the top and was too short to adjust the blade. Eventually I scavenged a new lever but it didn't fit around the brass wheel so I filed it wider so it wasn't binding.

Other than that it was a pretty straight forward restore - Evaporust, paint, and refinish the knob and tote.

The blade was pretty twisted. I still don't have it completely flattened yet. I've been doing a little at a time on my DMT XXC and its getting pretty close now.


----------



## bandit571

Here is the "Before"









Stay tuned for the "After"


----------



## donwilwol

Glad to see the Ohio 08 back in the game.


----------



## DonBroussard

Ref: Post 1505.

This is the lever cap for the MF 22C. I masked the area around the lettering and hand painted the insert. After the paint was dry, I sanded the tops of the letters even with the lever cap.










Bonus: a short story

I went to WalMart to pick up some touch up paint for the MF lever cap. I found the rack where the Rustoleum automotive touch up paints are located, found the tube with the bright red cap, checked out and went home. When I opened the container, I immediately noted that the paint was not red. Clearly labeled on the tube was "Bright Silver" as that color. I brought the tube back to the store later. The CS rep was also surprised that the color of the banding did not denote the color of the paint contained therein. Here's a picture of the Cardinal Red color-it's the one in the light blue-banded tube!










Maybe this might save someone a little frustration . . .


----------



## Airframer

I forgot to get the completed After pics up of my Craftsman/Stanley Frankenstein rehab..

Again the Before:









And After:


----------



## Brit

Wasn't sure where to post this, but I thought those who frequent this thread would appreciate the link below. A stunning collection of old tools, some woodworking related some not. All are nonetheless drool-worthy so have a bucket ready (a bowl won't be big enough).

The toolmaker's art never got any better than this.


----------



## DonBroussard

@Brit-I got through about 20 pages of the offerings, and I had to empty my drool bowl. I don't know if I can take the rest of the catalog of absolutely stunning items. From the starting bids on the items, I don't think it's worth the trip to Germany to try to buy anything, anyway.


----------



## donwilwol

yea, no restoration needed for that stuff Andy.


----------



## CL810

So it looks like royalty used tools back in the day.


----------



## chrisstef

Andy - dont take that article into the lou with ya. You might get reported missing. Mind blowing assortment.


----------



## superdav721

Wow guys the planes are great.
Then Andy posted the eye candy.
Now a tip I found today.


----------



## All10fingers

All of these restores are so nice and it warms my heart to see these old planes getting back into the hands of woodworkers instead of rusting into oblivion. There is a special place in wood heaven for all you folks! I hear there are some carpenters up there…


----------



## lysdexic

Dave, are you going to try the concoction?


----------



## superdav721

Yes, I still like to get a bit more aggressive sometimes. It will be worth a good try and used on planes that are not that far gone. The oil soap is new to me for cleaning planes, I have used it on floors and had great results. Wax and BLO are used most every time I clean one.


----------



## donwilwol

Very good Dave. I've always mixed BLO and wax, never though about adding the murphy's.


----------



## terryR

Dave, thanks for BOTH videos! I'm headed to Harbot Freight today for that soda bleaster. 

Already have that Murphy Oil Soap in the shop…gotta mix a batch of that cleaner and try it out!

DonB, nice job painting behind the MF logo! What type of paint did ya use? The little auto touch up tubes? And THANKS for the heads up on Rustoleum touch up paint labels!

...jeez, I'm still drooling over that link, Andy. Wow!


----------



## DonBroussard

@terryR-Thanks. I used that very last bit of red paint I had in a rattle can. It was Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel. I'll use the auto touch up paint on the next red background.


----------



## terryR

Don, Thanks. I wasn't sure since I saw the spray can and touch up paint, too. I'm plain dumb when it comes to painting! But wanna add color back to my lever caps that had them originally.

Yep, even the orange behind Stanley…I can hear some of you GASP as you read along! 

How about Dodge Hemi Orange?


----------



## bandit571

just a quick restore: The Before









and the "After"









Even the base looks better









Handles have been stripped of their RED paint (yuck) and a thick, dark Walnut stained varnish. They now have a coat of BLO on them, for now.


----------



## bandit571

Adjusted the M-F 39 once, just to get a better shaving









It now goes the full width of the iron. And, NO chattering!


----------



## bandit571

Ok, just a small block plane, for a change?

It arrived this afternoon









Looking a little worse for wear.









Yep, just plain dirty









Worked on it for awhile, and then tried it out on some edge grain pine









Looks a little better?









Just a small Dunlap plane. Numbers under the cap iron: "306" and "307" ring a bell?


----------



## Handtooler

This long forum topic all started with DonW's Seargent 5207 block restore, what seems a year ago, and has contained some of the most wonderful entries of totally wonderful workmanship that enjoy and learn from daily. Thanks ALL entrants.


----------



## terryR

Bandit, the base of that MF is so shiny I bet I could trim my beard by it! Nice work!

The Dunlap with the 306 and 307 looks a lot like my Sargent block…starting to love block planes more and more!


----------



## Deycart

I got a new hammer in the mail from Lee Valley and it had and UGLY purple finish that was just slopped on… So I stripped it and made it respectable.


----------



## Deycart

I picked this up and cleaned it up. Refinished the wood, shined the brass, laid down some new japanning and painted the lever cap.

I went with poly over amber shellac… We will see how it will hold up…


----------



## terryR

^I picked this up and cleaned it…

What? A 10 1/2 Carriage Maker's Rabbet? You lucky dog!!!  One of my MUST HAVE's…when money allows…

Nice job on the restoration, Deycart, love the orange behind the logo!


----------



## superdav721

Lookin Good guys.


----------



## Brit

Great job on that 10 1/2 Deycart. It came up a treat.


----------



## Airframer

Just finished up with my 110 I got at a flea market last month. For being such a small plane this guy so far presented the most challenges. So many tight spots to try and get into. No shavings shots for this guy yet. The current blade is mostly cheese so I have a new one on the way and shavings to follow it's arrival.

Before (on the right):










After:


----------



## Timbo

@ Dave, thanks for the Harbor freight baking soda gun tip-gotta try that!

Before: Well kinda… its been a user until the depth adjustment screw went south on it.










After: More pics and description of what I did in the Blog


----------



## Deycart

That actually looks really sweet.


----------



## HorizontalMike

This Sargent has earned its 'Stripes', top and bottom. I could think of nothing better for this 414C-VBM to have Zebrawood Tote & Knob. Used two coats of Zinsser wax-free SealCoat to keep the Zebrawood as bright as possible. I've got another set near completion that I stained darker that will post in a week or so.

BEFORE









AFTER


----------



## BTimmons

*Mike,* I can honestly say I've never seen a zebrawood tote and knob before. But now I hope I see more. That looks great!


----------



## superdav721

Here is a video on the little molding planes guys.
MY BLOG


----------



## Timbo

Oooh the zebra wood looks good on the knob and tote! Going to have to get some of that wood.

Dave, thanks for the video, Interesting find on the thinner plane. You might try to set it in a sunny window for a day or two, maybe it will shrink enough to allow the wedge movement.


----------



## donwilwol

Mike, I really like the zebra wood. That came out nice.

Dave, as usual you've outdone yourself.


----------



## superdav721

Tim it has already went back down. 80 degrees down here did it.
Thanks Don!


----------



## Tugboater78

love the zebrawood!


----------



## HorizontalMike

Thanks guys, on the Zebrawood kudos. Can still make two totes and one more knob with stock in hand… Fun stuff, but I am running out of planes to upgrade at the moment. I have templates for two different totes for ~#404 to #424 but can still make smaller sizes. On hand, I have enough to make ~three T&K in Walnut, 8 more Honduras Rosewood, and two more in Zebrawood. Not really trying to make a profit for this, but need to cover costs. Trying to have fun in retirement. Probably have ~$20 in materials per pair, plus labor. If interested, PM me, but do remember I am doing this for fun and do not want to get over-loaded. FYI, I only have Sargents for size comparisons.

FYI, if you have figured out the exact sizing for the steel rods and brass threads, please let me know. I have managed to "mostly" been able to use 12-24 to get appropriate threading. Sometimes it seems many, but not all, existing holes and threads are #14-20 (NOT 1/4-20) and I just do NOT have that ability at the moment. I am still exploring available taps and dies to find an answer. Mostly, this is a lost art and a case-by-case basis.


----------



## CL810

Reconditioned a Stanley 246 miter box. Here's the before:









Here's the after:


----------



## OnlyJustME

I didn't know you were at my yard sale CL810. lol I had one of those a long while ago and sold it before my hand tool movement. Had the saw with it too.


----------



## superdav721

Nice one CL


----------



## TerryDowning

This is a Lakeside Jack plane I inherited from Dad. No idea where he got it. This one had definitely seen better days.

As far as I can tell from research Lakeside was a budget offering of Stanley. This was definitely a budget plane. The frog bed was completely painted, the side still showed foundry markings from the rudimentary finish that was put on it. Either the sole was never flattened or this plane was severely abused. It took quite a bit of effort to clean and flatten the sides and sole.

This plane will be used as a scrub plane as I doubt I will ever be able to get gossamer shavings out of it.

Before
https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21736&authkey=ABrsdTzC_ALoUJA

https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21737&authkey=AJsVVndH8DlGk8o

Irons were so badly crudded up the stamped logo could not be made out.
https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21740&authkey=ALdXzQURBdhNd4I

After
https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21743&authkey=ALO7JsdDvQX4usU

Iron is now cambered with an 8 inch radius to use for Scrub work.
https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21747&authkey=AJdY1edfR57XG4Y

https://skydrive.live.com/embed?cid=DADE84084FE6576A&resid=DADE84084FE6576A%21746&authkey=AGiE0Ll2-u79zPg

It still won't win any beauty contests but at least the rust is gone, it's reasonably flat and square and Iron is sharp enough for scrub work. The Knob and Tote were sanded smooth to 220, 3 coats of BLO and a finish coat of Deft Spary Lacquer just fro some shine.


----------



## donwilwol

very nice Terry. It certainly looks better.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Terry,
Wow! Great job! I am now going to use the same two-step finish on some totes and knobs I have left over from some refurbs.. Keep me posted because this is a work in progress. Sometimes it is fun to 'save' the original 'Japanning' huh… 

BTW, only an opinion here, why not try a 12-15in radius, and report back on your preference? I am still learning this myself, but it seems that only the last 1/8in or so really makes the difference. Look forward to hearing more… Keep up the good work.


----------



## TerryDowning

I did some research on converting a jack to use for scrub work. Most seemed to say an 8 in radius on the camber was sufficient. I haven't tried it yet (hopefully tonight) We'll see how it goes. I can always put a stronger camber on it.


----------



## donwilwol

I actually like to have one with a strong camber and one with not so strong. You'll find uses for both.


----------



## TerryDowning

I also have a Stanley #5 Type 17 No camber on that one (yet). I figured the lake side should do well as a scrub plane since it was so badly out of true. It's still not perfect, but should be usable for getting the bull work done.


----------



## HorizontalMike

OK, I am still working on this very early 409C and just completed reworking the Knob in order to minimize the crack from a previous owner's repair. Both T&K Brazilian Rosewood. To my surprise, while I was turning the knob down on the drill press, I was getting dark chocolate dust that looked like Walnut.

Even the now naked knob looked like a dark Walnut to my eye, yet I know from the "Before" image that it was indeed Rosewood. Just look at the difference in the before and after images below. I hadn't realized before this point that some of the Rosewood used in the early Sargent hand planes was Brazilian. I found this link that helped me learn the difference and why the scientific name is Dalbergia *************************. Interesting stuff…
http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/distinguishing-brazilian-rosewood-from-east-indian-and-other-rosewoods/

BEFORE









BEFORE - Color corrected in PS4









Knob AFTER-Tote still original
I added BLO and now the knob looks like Ebony, though all of the pores are still visible. The visible crack in the second and third images are from the same perspective. BTW, I actually sanded the knob down by ~1/8in in diameter and added a 'bead."


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I have knobs/totes that have seem to change color while refinishing as well. I love the feel of BLO, but I don't like how it darkens the wood. So I've gone back to clear shellac.


----------



## Ripthorn

Just won a stanley #80 cabinet scraper off the 'bay from someone local for $5. Will need new blade and some work, but should be prime material for this thread once I get it.


----------



## HorizontalMike

I am thinking of sanding this down again and trying SealCoat, just to see if I can bring some of the grain pattern back up. That said, it will probably bring the crack back up as well. At one point the knob appears to have been broken in two. Either way, this was a major save so I have not decided for sure…


----------



## DocBailey

Terry - for the record, "Lakeside" was a brand name of tools carried by the now-defunct Montgomery Wards.


----------



## TerryDowning

-for the record, "Lakeside" was a brand name of tools carried by the now-defunct Montgomery Wards.-

I've read that too. Their planes were made by Stanley tool works. and this is truly a budget offering.

If you click the links to the after photos, you can see where I sanded the paint off the top ridge on the sides (it was mostly missing anyway and I wanted to be rid of the rust) the pitting from the foundry and molds was pretty excessive. Paint truly does cover a multitude of defects.

Just the general condition of the plane confirmed my suspicion that this was indeed a budget plane. The marks on the sides were too uniform to be from anything other than the finishing process during manufacture. It looked like they used 80 grit belt sanders on them, the foundry marks were deep and neither the sides nor the sole were even close to flat. I don't think this particular plane had ever been lapped in it its existence. The easiest way to reduce cost of manufacture is to sacrifice quality. They probably used the mold masters long after their intended life (decreasing cost and quality), reduce the finishing requirements and lay on thick paint in a single layer to cover the poor quality. Most buyers in the Montgomery Wards market (and other budget markets) were looking for low prices first and many had no idea what to look for in a tool.

It make sense from a business perspective to sell these types of tools. Just look at B & D and the current Stanley offerings in Wally World. Not everyone needs or wants "top of the line" tools; just tools that are good enough for casual use by home owners and novices for limited use. Not nearly good enough for continuous quality work.

This particular plane was a lot of work to get back to what I consider a serviceable and presentable condition. I have no doubts though that just by sharpening the iron with a file, I could have done a passable job of planing a swollen door good enough to have it swing freely. That is the market tools of this type are intended to serve, not the professional or high end hobbyist. That being said, I'm glad I spent the time on this plane. It will turn out to be a decent user, no smoothing plane to be sure, but good enough to get rough lumber down close to the desired dimensions relatively quickly.


----------



## shampeon

Both T&K Brazilian Rosewood. To my surprise, while I was turning the knob down on the drill press, I was getting dark chocolate dust that looked like Walnut.

Smell it. Brazilian rosewood has a distinct, sweet smell, very unlike walnut.

FWIW, I'm pretty sure that's rosewood. Looks a lot like the knob and tote on my type 10 #7. Old rosewood is pretty dark, and adding oil will darken it even more. Shellac may bring out the figure, but on my #7 the knob stayed dark while the tote had a lot more visible grain.


----------



## HorizontalMike

OK, I put the B. Rosewood knob back on the DP and sanded the BLO out of it! That brought up the grain/rings/figure of the wood. This is definitely Brazilian Rosewood.

This time after sanding with 320g and finishing with #0000 steel wool, I sprayed it with "Deft" brand Semi-Gloss Clear. At least 6-8 coats 5-10min apart.

Results: Still darkened the knob quite a bit, however, in the direct sunlight you can now see the figure of the rosewood and the iridescence as well. In normal lighting it still looks nearly solid very dark brown to black. The unfortunate part is that you can now see the repaired 'crack'. That said, IMO this repair looks good in my eyes,, so I am leaving it showing. I think the beauty of the wood needs to show on this one.

Notice on the first two images and the third in the composite, that the same crack is centered in each of the images. Not a perfect save, but still worth the effort IMO.

@BigRedKnothead, took your advice and used a clear coat. Thanks.

Sanded Naked - Had to stretch a bit in PS4









No Flash - Clear coated with Deft semi-gloss









Flash Close-up Composite


----------



## DocBailey

Terry 
Lakeside tools were rebranded tools from multiple manufacturers.
I've gotta say - that lateral adjustment lever has "Sargent" written all over it.


----------



## ksSlim

Might wantta look at these


----------



## TerryDowning

I won't argue as I'm certainly no expert and it really does not matter who the baseline mfg was.

The bottom line is it's a value/budget tool and these always seem to need more fettling than higher end tools.

Once fettled they can be turned into decent users though.

Thanks for the updated info. I learn more everyday


----------



## OnlyJustME

I'm repairing a rosewood tote from a type 12 #4 and getting the same dark chocolate sanding dust HM.


----------



## HorizontalMike

@OnlyJustME,
What I have started doing is saving the dust. I now have Zebrawood, Honduras Rosewood, and Brazilian Rosewood dust in little containers to help with future crack fillings. You know the old mantra, never throw anything away… *;-)*


----------



## OnlyJustME

I did the same thing. i put mine in an envelope.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Hehe. Haven't inventoried any dust yet…but I should! Just like you guys, I use it with epoxy or superglue as filler all the time.


----------



## bandit571

Found an old table in the trash day piles. Legs looked decent, a couple aprons were solid, hardware was shot









Legs used a bolt and a plate to fasten to the aprons









Used these two aprons as patterns for new ones, with added tenons on them. Top was in layers, and "Buggy". Made some new wood parts from Black Walnut









With white Oak corner blocks instead of rusty steel. A single coat of Poly/BLO mix









and the top









and this old Mersman Coffee table is reborn.


----------



## Handtooler

Nice Salvation! I certainly like the use of mortise and tenon apron joinery and the blo/poly mix finish is really nice, as a novice I have used neither, just wipe on poly. I also have a pound block of beeswax for grating and mixing with finish to learn that process. Are those pocket holes to attach the corner blocks? That table is Supreb.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Wow, great 'save' on the coffee table!


----------



## terryR

Bandit, love the table! It's hard to believe what some people throw away! 

Re: plane knobs and totes…one point to remember is that a knob and tote made from the same board will almost always result in a darker knob since you mostly see the end grain on the knob. The tote shows all the pretty face and side grain.

Getting down to the pretty growth rings on a vintage knob takes a bit of sanding, or finish remover, or both.

ANY wipe-on finish will transfer the dark oils from the dark growth rings on top of the light colored growth rings…or in other words…you just wasted your time sanding the original finish. Especially a rosewood, or cocobolo, or oily wood. Using a spray finish for the first coat will prevent this, and protect the different colors from mixing.

...Just like H.Mike shows us above.  I hate to waste money on spray finishes, but this is when to splurge and use them IMO…

old photo of stanley no.3 with original wood…








.


----------



## bandit571

Answer to question about those corner blocks: I just used a drill press to drill through for a few screws. Nothing fancy. Used a cord hand drill to drill the slotted holes to attach the top with. Drill through first, then lean the drill to the front and back a bit until a slot appears.

As for shapes of lateral levers









These two are clones of each other. One is a Stanley Handyman #1204, the other is a Sears Companion # 187.37053 DD otherwise the same plane. Note the laterals…...


----------



## Fettler

My father-in-law recently gave me a plane from the family barn in Oregon.

















First time using evaporust. Dunk it for 5 hours, scrubbed then put it back in over night:









After a light scrubbing i coated every thing in T9. I also gave it a shotty rattle can japanning. Knot/tote are from a donor ward masters plane i bought for $2 at a garage sale.

Still needs work, but it gets the job done. So far the most expensive part is the sand paper for leveling the bottom. What do you guys use to clean the brass parts?


----------



## Airframer

I use Brasso to clean the brass parts. Let it soak and then buff it out with a buffer wheel on the drill press. If you don't have that ability a micro fiber cloth works too.

nice job saving that plane!


----------



## Deycart

After I let them soak in my ultrasonic cleaner, I like to just chuck the brass in my drill or drill press and go at it with some 3m scrub pads. The green ones are a little course, but I work up to the gray ones and they look pretty good.


----------



## Brit

I haven't sharpened this saw yet as it will feature in my upcoming 'Saw Sharpening for Beginners' video, but I had to show it off.

Before Restoration:




After Restoration:


----------



## OnlyJustME

Wow! Looks new. Beautiful.


----------



## Handtooler

WOW, OUTSTANDING! And, I believe W. TZack, Sons, & Turner made extra fine saws. I have a 8" 21 tpi back saw purchased from Liechtung Tools in about 1967. It still cuts nicely.


----------



## DanKrager

Wow, Handtooler. I have the same saw and from only a little later. It is indeed a fine saw and I use it regularly. I have a larger mate sharpened rip for bigger tenons. 
DanK


----------



## DanKrager

And Brit, you positively made me drool over that beautiful saw. It is simply gorgeous!
DanK


----------



## toddc

This is a great thread! I love the before and after effect and these are all real eye candy


----------



## donwilwol

Andy, that is an absolutely stunning saw. Wow.


----------



## CL810

Andy I can only repeat above comments! Let the filming begin!


----------



## superdav721

Dang Andy That is great.


----------



## superdav721




----------



## racerglen

Dave ! 
Very nice work, love the save and the video.


----------



## superdav721

Thank you Glen


----------



## Timbo

Andy, BEAUTIFUL SAW! Curious, why do the teeth stop short on the handle end?

Dave, Super video. You are getting some good use of the plane restore mix.


----------



## superdav721

Tim I am liking it a lot. I want to try it on a metal body. I have a 130 up next for restoring. We will see. The front has a slight crack and I want to try some silver braze a friend gave me. I watched him braze two beer cans together.


----------



## ksSlim

Nice save Dave!
Be sure you have the right flux for the silver braze.


----------



## OnlyJustME

Nice restore Dave. How is the iron sharpened?


----------



## Airframer

Just finished up my Stanley SW #3C restoration.

The before..









Annnnnnnd The After!










More Before/After pics in My Blog


----------



## Handtooler

Airframer, The #3 having a straight slot cap iron and hexhead bolt, what would be its type or vintage? Great work, now to watch your blog.


----------



## superdav721

ksSlim it is wrapped in flux. This is some new stuff.
OJM I used wet dry sand paper an went between 320 to 2000 then a strop. 
Thanks guys
Airframer looking good.


----------



## Brit

*Tim* asked "…Curious, why do the teeth stop short on the handle end?"

I think when this saw left the factory, the toothline right at the heel would have been angled back like it looks in the catalogue picture I posted. Since then the saw has been sharpened a number of time and each time the saw was jointed, the angle got less and less and they person who sharpened it didn't bother to cut new teeth or maintain the original angle. The teeth under the handle don't get used anyhow and some craftsmen didn't even both sharpening the teeth under the handle at all. When I sharpen it in the video, I will joint it and restore the original angle at the heel because I kind of like how it looks aesthetically.


----------



## OnlyJustME

Dave, I meant pertaining to beveled on one side or both, angle of bevel and such. Thanks


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Awesome Dave, Thanks for taking the time to make the video. That was very helpful. I've got panel gauge envy.


----------



## superdav721

OJM it is like a one sided round nosed dagger. On side has a bevel on both edges and the other side is flat. The side with the bevels has what I call a blood groove in it. The bevel angle would be like a knife, around 20 degrees.
Thanks BigRedKnothead, I love the handle. I want to make a template of it before I loose it to termites or bad weather.


----------



## OnlyJustME

Thanks for further clarification Dave. One last question though. Does the beveled side go toward or away from the guide fence?


----------



## superdav721

You want the bevel towards the fence so it tries to get away from it and keeps it tight.


----------



## OnlyJustME

that was my thinking. Thanks Dave.


----------



## Brit

Dave - That panel gauge is a serious bit of kit. Nice job on the restore.

Tim - Sorry for the spelling mistake in my earlier reply to your question. )


----------



## All10fingers

Best looking saw I have seen in years!


----------



## superdav721

Thanks Andy.


----------



## Brit

All10fingers - Thanks for the compliment, I appreciate it. I love sanding and restoring the details on old handles. This one was a real pleasure to work on. Such fine work by the original handle maker.


----------



## superdav721

Andy its killing me and my wife. Whats a kit?


----------



## All10fingers

Andy,
I was thinking the same thing. Such nice detail in the handle and in the stamp. So different from what is found today on most saws and tools. That kind of detail almost begs to be noticed and enjoyed


----------



## Brit

Dave - Just substitute the word 'equipment' for 'kit' and that's what it means. Of course, you really need to hear it spoken from the mouth of a Londoner. I'll see if I can work it into my saw sharpening video if I remember, so look out for it. It will be our little secret. LOL.


----------



## CL810

This thread just busted through 30,000 views!


----------



## superdav721

I will remember that and try to do the same.
I bet I will add a bit of southern drawl to it.


----------



## donwilwol

a southern drawl to European slang. Now we're talkin.


----------



## CL810

*Andy *- over in the Shop Made Tool Swap thread we've been discussing rasps, floats and files. What rasps, floats and files do you use for saw handles?


----------



## Airframer

Just another quick rehab. A Stanley #220 I have had for a while and have been putting off doing anything but sharpening the blade on. It is currently my favorite block plane and it deserved some attention. It was originally the deep blue but I went black mainly because that is what I have. This was done start to finish in an afternoon. I baked the paint in my shop toaster oven to speed the cure.

Before on the left..










After….


----------



## Brit

*CL810* - When it comes to files and rasps, mine are crap quite frankly. Here's what I use:










1. I do about 80% of my prep work with sandpaper, starting at P80 grit, then P120, P180, P240. The end grain I take to P320.
2. Most of the details are then touched up with small half-round file.
3. I then use a smaller half-round needle file to get in under the lamb's tongue.
4. I use a 8" smooth file to clean up the chamfer around the cheeks as this is often an area that picks up dents and dirt.
5. Occasionally, I will use sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowelling.
6. I use the edge of a flat needle file to clean up and restore the slots in the split nuts.

Of course I'd love to have some nice rasps and files, but truth is I don't at the moment. They are all cheap and cheerful, but sometimes you have to make do with what you've got right?


----------



## superdav721

Nice #220!
Brit nice grit in your kit.


----------



## CL810

"It's not the kit, but who's using the kit's contents."


----------



## bandit571

Just pack up yer troubles in your old Kit Bag, and smile…..


----------



## Timbo

Thanks Andy, interesting info. Looking forward to the video too.


----------



## Brit

CL810 - and how you use it.
Bandit - You certainly made me smile.
Tim - Are you down under?


----------



## ScaleShipWright

Hello,

just received my first smoothing plane, a Record #4. I would like to put it in good shape before starting making shavings, but being a newbie I probably need some direction (I have already read the tutorials and other very interesting stuff in LJ). I will probably make a blog of this "restoration" work, hoping it will be useful for those who, like me, do not have great experience. Now some photos.

IMHO the plane is not in very bad condition; there is a very limited amount of rust and some pitting here and there. The plane retains a good amount of its original japanning, not sure if repainting makes sense.



















The sole and sides need a good flattening. The frog fits finely, maybe needs a little flattening where it supports the cutter.

According to the info in this page: http://www.recordhandplanes.com/dating.html the plane could be dated between 1954 and 1956 (if I am not wrong).

Tote and knob are made of stained beech; they have some scratches but are still sound without cracks:



















The cutter and the backing iron have some pitting (far away from the cutting edge). The cutter came already sharpened, but I think it needs to be flattened at the back and re-beveled to perform at its best.



















The cap lever has lost most of its fore plating and I am thinking about totally removing the remains.

Just one word before concluding: I am not a plane collector and I was just looking for a first plane to learn how to use it. This one seemed like a good compromise between quality (if I will be able to fine tune it) and low cost.

Comments and suggestions are very appreciated. Thank you.

Alessandro


----------



## Airframer

I have a question as far as flattening the sides of a jack or smoothing plane. I see folks do it all the time but I'm not sold on how necessary it is in the over all operation of a plane not designed to ride on it's side. Someone school me on this because I haven't done it on any of my restorations and now I wonder if I should be.


----------



## superdav721

Nice work


----------



## Timbo

LOL Andy, No, in the US. The iphone is smarter than me, fixed it now.


----------



## Brit

That's better Tim. )


----------



## donwilwol

*Alessandro* I'm not sure if there was a question in your post or not. Great looking Record by the way. It looks like your well on your way to making some shavings.

*Air*, you only need to square and flatten the sides if you plan on using it as a shooting plane. That's my opinion anyways.

Wow, I almost missed that 220. Great job!!

No pictures of my files and rasp. They are just thrown in 2 drawers, one for wood, and one for metal.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

*Don*, you're right, I have not posted specific questions, I have just received the plane and I am still thinking about what to do. Probably the first thing I will do is trying to remove the rust (very little, but some parts have some); maybe a solution of salt and vinegar could work well…


----------



## JayT

*Airframer*, the 220 looks good. I'm with Don-I don't flatten the sides of most of my planes. I have two that are flattened because once I make a shooting board, those are the ones that will get used. Otherwise, if I want the plane to be a bright and shiny one, a little sandpaper by hand on the sides to take off any corrosion is enough.

*Alessandro*, nice pick up on the Record. I wouldn't worry about repainting one in that good of shape, just clean it up and a coat of wax to protect the metal.

*Andy*, if you weren't across the pond, I'd send you a couple of saws. That restore looks great! Looking forward to a video on sharpening.


----------



## BTimmons

Nice to have something to add here.



















Details here.


----------



## donwilwol

great looking shave!!


----------



## superdav721

I got about 8 of those that needs that treatment. Nice shave.


----------



## JayT

Nice job, Brian.

And now for something without a cutting edge. Bought a couple vises that needed a bit of cleanup.

Morgan 10A Before



















After










And a Brodhead Garrett 500Y Before



















After










And a shot of them together. Both were taken completely apart, de-rusted (Evaporust bath for small parts, wire brush and wet sanding for the rest. Paint is Rustoleum Hammered Black.










Now they just need a bench to be mounted on.


----------



## superdav721

WOW. Thats the way to get a grip on restoration.


----------



## waho6o9

Awesome work folks!


----------



## Handtooler

Jay T, Superb restoration on those vises! Any idea of the age or vintage of those items? I'm sure they'll make someone mighty proud to own such fine equipment.


----------



## OnlyJustME

JayT, funny you should show that B-G vise. I just bought one a few weeks ago for $50 off clist. Mine only has a B/G 500-V marking on it though, not the full name. It has a metal handle on it which i'll be making a wooden replacement for it. I wasn't really going to do much of a restore on it though but after seeing yours, now i might have to.


----------



## JayT

Thanks for the compliments, guys.

Russell, I have no idea on the age of the vises, I just needed two for a planned workbench build and they were the right price-one from a flea market and the other off ebay, total investment for both was around $85. My understanding is that Brodhead Garrett is mainly a school supply company, though they now sell Jorgensen vises instead of B-G branded. The ebay seller has sold several of them that are all the same model, so it is very likely that one came from a school shop. A company is still making the Morgan vise in the USA, but I don't know if the features and castings are similar or not.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Nice job Jay. Can I ask what you are planning on using to line the jaws with? Hardboard? Or maybe a hardwood?


----------



## Handtooler

Jay T, Thanks for your reply! Both appear to be quality vises and you did a marvelous job on 'em.


----------



## JayT

Mike, right now the plan is to use soft maple for the jaw liners, but that may change depending on what wood(s) I end up using to build the bench. They will be recessed into the front and end to give flush surfaces the full length and width, so we will see what woods I can get a deal on.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Jay,
Just a suggestion, at least for the end vise… I chose to mount mine flush, however with a replaceable custom jaw cover if/when I mangle it from over-use. This way I won't be damaging the end of the bench itself. This was a simple glue-up of three pieces of Ash, to form the cavity for the vise. Just a thought.



















http://lumberjocks.com/projects/45812


----------



## DaddyZ

Nice Looking Bench there Mike ^


----------



## JayT

Yep, Mike, I have a very similar plan in mind for both front and end for the same reasons. Thanks for the pics of your set up, it helps to see how someone else executed the plan that is in my head.

Nice bench, BTW, even if it is backwards.


----------



## RGtools

*Mike* I just wanted to say thanks for posting that picture. It makes a task that I have for my current bench so much easier. I had not thought of this.


----------



## racerglen

Great idea Mike, my 20 odd year old vice jaws of door sill mahogany are getting pretty 
ratty !


----------



## donwilwol

love the vises JayT. The rest of the conversation was great to. I just added a vise to a bench. I chiseled it in. Why didn't I think of Mike's idea?

So I only had a few minutes between some calls today, and I haven't had anything to post here lately, so I grabbed a dirty old block I thought was just a #110 knock off, but it turned out a little interesting.

Before









Then the after


















But the interesting part is it looks like somebody actually made the cap and wheel.




























But it works like a small smoother


----------



## HorizontalMike

Geez Don! That is cool! I picked an old Type 3 #107 Sargent as an 'extra' for my Type 2 #418 Sargent, BOTH for something like $15.50 or so. That said, my #107 needed a nylon 'spacer' in order to make it work as designed. The wheel screw was stripped on the outer ends and would not exert enough pressure to work correctly. A "new" wheel would be wonderful for this old plane, but you know how it goes… *;-)* Anyway it works like a champ, or should I say WILL work like a Champ after I correct a very serious 45-degree angle on the blade. Very puzzling, though I suspect this was used for end grain exclusively (my guess).


----------



## ksSlim

Just picked up a few blocks myself.
Somehow I can't turn em down for less than $10.
Flea market guy going out of business.

I couldn't believe he had 2ea 9 1/4s Couple of Millers low levels an 2 more no-names.
No names look like Sargents, May be Sears or harware store. No logos on the irons.

Bought his basket of "parts blocks" as well.

Pics when I get the camera back.


----------



## bandit571

It seems that the Millers Falls #9 turned out pretty good. A before









and, after a trip along some Ash edge grain









Got rid of the red paint on the handles, and gave them a refinish. Starting to like planes from this company.


----------



## superdav721

Does anybody know where I can get Stanley spoke shave irons? Aftermarket is fine. I'm fixin to start whitlin on a saw blade.


----------



## ksSlim

Strange lateral adjust on this CMan blade.

More stuff.










Flea market haul, gotta get em when they're closing shop.










Family shot of the little blocks.

Still haven't got the hang of posting pics. Captions are ALL messed up.


----------



## donwilwol

That's a sargent block lateral. I need one if that's sharpenable and you want to part with it.

Look at the 306 type 2 Block Plane on this page


----------



## donwilwol

The iron with the lateral goes on the knuckle. It looks like a 4306.


----------



## bandit571

Here is another Craftsman block









It has a 306 and a 307 under the cap iron.









and beside it's bigger relative


----------



## CL810

*Dave* - Lee Valley has blades here .


----------



## shampeon

Dave: I put a Ron Hock blade into my Stanley 152 spokeshave. I ordered direct, and talked to Ron a bit about how to best fit it.


----------



## OnlyJustME

One of my recent C-list finds a few weeks ago. Now i have to make it purdy like JayT's



























There is what i think is a bronze washer that's falling apart between the handle and front jaw. Is it imperative that this washer be bronze or can i replace it with any type of washer?










Nice flea market haul Slim.


----------



## ksSlim

Don, thanks for the intell.
you got it. Pm shipping addy.

OJM-McMasterCarr===Bronze thrust bearings, there're worth the mony.
Check the listings for OD and ID. Takes a while to file or grind them to size.
Be sure you surface the face of the vise plate and the handle knob, or nut where the handle fits.
Bronze is "self lubricating" impreganinating with lube.


----------



## OnlyJustME

Thanks Slim


----------



## superdav721

Thanks for the links guys.


----------



## Ripthorn

I stumbled across a Stanley #80 cabinet scraper on ebay (wasn't looking for one at all). The auction was ending 9 hours later, no bids with an opening bid of $5. To make it even better, the seller was local, so I emailed and asked about local pickup. She said sure, so I bid and won it for $5, no shipping. It didn't look like it had the blade, but when I got it home, it had a short one. One of the blade bar thumb screws is not original (someone took one without a shoulder and put an oversize hex nut on it). It will get replaced at some point. Anyway, there was no japanning left on it, but was really only dirty, not rusty.



















A little engine enamel after some wire wheel action, some sharpening on the blade (probably didn't do it right) and we have


----------



## DanKrager

Nicely done, Rip. You'll find that saves a lot of burned fingers. 
RE: sharpening. Often these kinds of scrapers are sharpened at a 45 degree angle on the cutting edge with no burnishing needed. My scraper has adjustable angles, so it is more forgiving in difficult situations. You may find that some burnishing is good in some situations. This suggests that more than one blade is desirable. 
You must have done something right to get those shavings! Beats sandpaper "40 ways to Sunday"!
DanK


----------



## bandit571

Per Stanley: Sharpen edge to a 45 Degree bevel, then take a burnisher and "roll" the edge towards the non-beveled side to form a hook.

Used that info on a #80 I had last year:









The before and the after









Not too bad..


----------



## derosa

Finally get to post instead of just drooling over the redo's.

Posted this little craigslist find which I picked up for 20.00. Based on what HorizontalMike posted it seems to date to 1909/10









The cleanup. 


















Turned out the dirt was hiding a repaired break at the top and what I thought was a poorly repaired break in the middle was just a break. Some glue, a lot of sanding and a little clear shellac and the handles look good. 
The sides were cleaned up and the bottom made flat though it wasn't far off. 
Picked up a sharpening stone from harbor freight for this one, previous owner had gone nuts with a grinder and lots of elbow grease was needed to get it back to a flat square blade with an actual straight edge. I also spent the money on a couple of water stones, means I use water on the HF stone, and used the Paul Sellers method of sharpening. It will now shave hair and creates nice curls in cherry. 
Since the body wasn't rusty or bubbling I left the old jappaning in place along with the old tarnish and just polished out the paint drops. For this I also converted my old 6" craftsman grinder to a polisher with 2 fabric discs and 2 grades of polish and it does the job well, the top cap reflects so well it created a lot of glare from the lights.


----------



## racerglen

Nice work Russ, and a great save !


----------



## superdav721




----------



## planepassion

Very nice video Dave. I always wondered how the old-timers brazed the vintage planes I see now and then. Good work too.


----------



## DaddyZ

Nice Video Dave !


----------



## superdav721

Thank you Brad
They would have used a coal forge and a soldering iron. They would have taken the iron to a yellow heat and the cast iron would have had to be placed in the forge as well.


----------



## planepassion

Wow Dave, I hadn't considered that they wouldn't have a blowtorch like yours.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Way to go Russ! I was eying that one! BTW, VBMs run from 1910-1920, and they are probably the best of the Sargents that are available. Good score!


----------



## Wally331

Bought this little No. 3 yesterday at the flea market- 12$ She wasn't too badly rusted, nothing that a belt sander, wirebrush, and a lot of elbow grease couldn't handle at least. Got her all cleaned up, works like a charm again.





































Here's the money shot










Sorry for picture spam!


----------



## donwilwol

Oh, we like picture spam! Nice #3.


----------



## Airframer

Just finished my Stanley #120. The height adjuster on this is pretty nifty..

Before:





































After:














































I need to get started sharpening the 5 irons I have in the sharpening que.. this one included..


----------



## ScaleShipWright

After two days in vinegar my #4 Record is virtually rust free:










I will keep what remains of the original japanning, but I wasn't able to remove a reddish blot (stain?) from the body.



















Next step will be flattening the sole:


----------



## wormil

That's some potent vinegar. It usually takes me a week minimum.


----------



## Airframer

Cider vinegar works great actually. I have used it on all but one of my planes with great results. You do experience flash rust a lot faster with it than you do with Evaporust but it is a lot cheaper.


----------



## superdav721

Nice work gentlemen. Looking reel good!
That last one may smell like pickles for a week or two.


----------



## Airframer

Wrapped up one more today. I actually forgot to take before pics of this guy. It's condition was the usual surface rust and an extremely poor attempt to repair the japanning.. i.e. some asshat decided to spray the frog, base, blade and lateral adjuster with black enamel without masking anything. So it had a thick coat of black on everything.

Got it fixed up though


----------



## BTimmons

Nice one, Airframer.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

That's some potent vinegar. It usually takes me a week minimum.

Sorry, I forgot to mention that the plane had very little rust:


----------



## donwilwol

A quickie Sargent #5607 just because I didn't have one
Ebay sale price $5 to my door for $13

Before









After



























And a Sargent knuckle family. A 5307, 5607, 4306


----------



## HorizontalMike

Very nice Don, baby Sargents! *;-)*


----------



## ksSlim

Nice Don, let me know when you need some spare parts.
Most of the Sargents that I get in "junk boxes" are only good for part.
Some parts fit on Cman bases.


----------



## ScaleShipWright

yesterday I noticed that the tote of my #4 had a little play, and discovered that the tote's toe did not touch the body. I decided to add some material and cut a slice of cherry, shaped and glued to the bottom of the tote; the added piece is thicker at the heel and toe to accomodate the slightly u-shaped tote's base, its bottom face is flat:










I screwed the tote to the body and kept until the glue had set. Then I stained and applied three coats of Danish oil (the color of the stain does not match 100% that of the tote, but I think is acceptable, time and dirt will help…










Time to get the sole flat!


----------



## HorizontalMike

Don, Here is a Sargent #5409 that I found and refurbed. I noticed that you have NO images for any of the #5400 Series, so feel free to include any you need off of my website. BTW, I cannot find ANY other example of a #5400 Series bench plane. Searched Google, Yahoo, eBay, etc. and nothing shows up. This seems to be even more rare than Davide Heckel's book indicates.

Features thin casting, Horseshoe Lateral, Rosewood Tote & Knobs, Corrugated, and has round frog posts that were last used in 1906. This whole series lasted only 3-years, from 1907-1909, so it really is very rare to find one, and to find a base with the round posts, even more so.























































BELOW is only "before" image I could find. Notice the #409VBM above it for comparison.


----------



## Deycart

You better be careful with that look how thin the side walls are.


----------



## HorizontalMike

This one is a "collector" and not a "user"... Just an interesting bit of history. And as you elude, it surely is rare for it to have survived for so very long with such a fragile OEM condition.


----------



## terryR

HorizontalMike, thanks for posting that Sargent poster with 5400 data…where did you find that? If that came from a book, I must find a copy! I love the rare Sargents…

BTW, your 409 looks awesome! I haven't started down the VBM path…yet…


----------



## HorizontalMike

Terry,
By far, the best collection of old Sargent plane images and adverts can be found in David Heckel's ID and Value Guide. This is also a relatively good source for valuation, though you need to understand that that valuation is from 2004, at best, and can be in error of the true rarity and current market.

Other sources include the old Sargent catalogs themselves and/or old magazine adverts and posters. Copies of any and all can be had on eBay when they come up. Keep an eye out for them.

Thanks for the kudos Terry, though this is a #5409, NOT a #409, and quite a bit more rare/valuable than your standard #409. BTW, the "5" only appears in the advert and NOT on the plane.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Mike. I've seen that book on eBay a ton…will grab one soon now that I know…

Ahhh, the 5 NOT appearing on the 5409 is tricky indeed! Will make them harder to find…except for the thin castings.

Again, fine restore job!


----------



## dbray45

Anybody with that book - what does it say about the #407 ? I have one and when I went to sell it - was told it isn't a 407 - but then it is and then it isn't and some of those told me that it could be or may be - to probably is.

I have a complete #407 not the VBM


----------



## HorizontalMike

David,
Got any images you could share? That would help a lot. If you can get a straight down view it would show the casting thickness and lever cap. A rear-quarter view will show the adjustment lever type. Shoot, you know the types of images that a 'complete' eBay posting uses, assembled and dis-assembled and all angles. Is it corrugated or smooth on the bottom? PLUS, measure the length and width of the casting, the width of the blade, etc. to the nearest 1/8in. The nominal sizes are just convenience and far from exact. For instance my Type 4 #407 casting/base is actually 7 7/8in long.

So, that being said, if you can provide me with some information, then that will help me focus on the appropriate identifiers in the book that will help you nail down what you have.

Plus, I started this thread for additional information that didn't make it into David Heckel's ID and Guide book.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/47190


----------



## dbray45

These are 3 images that I have available right now




























The Patent date on the lateral is Feb. 3, '91 - it has thin walled sides, and the lever cap has 407 on the back. The brass adjustment knob is not the standard machined version either.

Same size as a #2 Stanley


----------



## HorizontalMike

David,
This looks like a Type 3 #407. Maybe 1907-1910ish…


Indeed, it looks like a thin casting as far as I could tell. Would like to see the base/casting *without* the frog. The area behind the throat opening should also be thin immediately behind the throat and the frog should not even touch the throat on these thin castings until 1910 when the VBM #400 models changed to heavier castings.


Look for *round* frog screw posts (1906 last year for round posts) on the casting. My guess is they will be square (1907 and later).


The Lateral adjustment is a Type 3 as well. It has the twisted Patent Date, however the working end is newer or the "second" lateral adjustment. These second laterals may be twisted or folded.


I have a Brass adjusting screw/nut just like yours. Mine was on my #418 that dates to ~1907-1909. It is two piece with a steel sleeve. Just check it with a magnet and that will tell you. Very early Sargent metal planes have *pure brass* screw/nut, then two-piece, and finally brass-plated steel. Most screws tend to be straight knurling with two lines through them.


Does the back side of the lever cap also have a molded dot below the number 407? Probably not on yours since this looks like a Type 3, but you never know…


Tote and knob should be Rosewood up through 1909. You could replace with Rosewood, or re-turn on a DP and sand to smooth out the cracked areas. The knob brass nut has something going on or maybe the knob is a replacement and over-sized?

Hope this helps. This is a pretty rare plane, so it would be worth trying to find OEM tote and knob that are in better shape. I am a bit jealous to say the least. **


----------



## OnlyJustME

David, did you hear about the Lie-Nielson hand tool event at Exotic lumber in Gaithersburg May 3 & 4?


----------



## dbray45

Yes - I going to try to get there but don't know if I can.

Mike - I will take more pictures


----------



## dbray45

Mike,

The adjustment screw is two part with steel in the middle. I have two lever caps - one that was broken and braized - original, the other does not have the dot (one I bought to replace the original - didn't want it to break). They are a little different.

Here are the pics:























































Thanks for your help!


----------



## HorizontalMike

Wow David! This is indeed an early #407 Type 3. As mentioned before, the round posts were last used in 1906. And that Original (brazed) iron cap does have the "dot" also indicating very early. I think the round posts, cross-hatched Brass adjusting nut with a steel sleeve, and "Second" type lateral (though twisted), are the keys here and seem to tighten the period to about 1906-1907 or '08 at latest. The round posts and the steel sleeved Brass nut are a bit at odds with each other time wise, but not impossible, IMO.

FWIW, the cutter should be the Oval w/USA in the centered if original.

Can't tell if the japanning is "only" original Asphaultum or if someone has attempted a spray fix on top of it. That happened to my #5409 so I had no choice but to do a complete re-japanning. All said and done, it may be worth leaving all in original state, other than a good cleaning and keep the original cap along side or paired with the plane. Personally, I would insist on at least a minimum of $300 and maybe as high as $400 on fleaBay, but that is just me. This is definitely a collector and NOT a user. Great find!


----------



## dbray45

I doesn't look like it has been repainted by the way it is worn.

Actually, I would look for more but then again, I am willing to throw in a newer 407, parts plane or user, and a 113 type 2 for parts (frog is broken), handle is missing but the rest is there for around $750. I won't put this up on the bay again but I will make the offer for LJs.

Price seems high but there are some unique and potentially rare pieces and parts. (I will be using the proceeds to buy a couple of LN planes - a #2 and #1) so a trade is possible as well.

PM me if interested


----------



## HorizontalMike

Good luck David. No Stanleys for me. I am strictly an early "Sargent" type and my #407s are Type 4 and 5 and will probably stay that way for now.

As far as I remember, I have…

Type 2 Horseshoes:

#5409
#414
#418
#424

Type 3s in 

#107
#414
#414C
#422

Type 4s

#407
#408
#409 (Two)
#414
#414C 
#418 (two)

Type 5s

#407

Craftsman

#306 Type3?

Most have been restored, a handful have new Rosewood totes and knobs and two have new Zebrawood totes and knobs. No plans to sell at the moment, just enjoying the restoration process.


----------



## dbray45

Mike - That is cool with me and I fully understand. As a rule, I do not sell my tools, I buy them to use them. Every now and then I buy them because an LJ that I know collects them and my price was really nice. Sometimes I buy something and for some reason, even though a may spend some many on it, I know it is unusual. This was the case for this.


----------



## JayT

Finished a few more plane restorations.

Type 11 5-1/2 before:



















Bedrock 604-1/2 before










After, along with a Type 9 #5 that doesn't have any before pics. All were stripped and re-japanned, the 604-1/2 got a new walnut knob and tote and the original ones off of it were refinished and put on the 5-1/2. Also found a correct Bedrock lever cap off the 'bay to get the 604-1/2 back correct.


----------



## donwilwol

beautiful restores JayT


----------



## dbray45

Really nice Jay


----------



## HorizontalMike

Jay,
Nice job on the T&Ks. I need to get going on trying Walnut. So far, I have only used Rosewood and Zebrawood. Both are great but I really want see what I can do with Walnut. Keep up the good work.


----------



## JayT

Mike , I wish I could take credit for those, but they were made by LukieB-he did a fabulous job.


----------



## bandit571

What happens when a plane comes in the door, with just two, very small rust spots on the whole plane?









Simple, i just buff out the rustiness, and sharpen the iron









Sorry HM, this one is by Stanley, made for Montgomery Wards.

Now the fun begins. learning how to use this little guy…..


----------



## HorizontalMike

Yeah Bandit, everyone has to pick their own niche in old tools. I've settled on Early #400 series Sargents up through Type 5 or so. There are way too many to pick them all, don't ya' know… *;-)*

BTW, nice Stanley.


----------



## Handtooler

OK, guys, Being slightly dim witted, I've managed to break the adjusting yoke on my Stanley #4C. I've tempotaily replaced it with a non jappaned one from a 1204 Handyman from about 1948, but I'd really like to obtain a replacement for that cast iron one that I broke. Any suggestions on how to find one. Craig's List in Chattanooga doesn't have much by way of woodworking hand tools. Thanks for ant info.


----------



## donwilwol

Handtooler there are several listed on ebay from nhplaneparts http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-Bailey-Bench-Plane-Y-Adjusting-Lever-/171030802158?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d23aeeee

I just happen to see them last night. He listed 5 or 6 right in a row. Reasonably priced and he's good to deal with.


----------



## Handtooler

Thanks Don!


----------



## Airframer

I finally got around to doing something with the #130 I picked up last month. This is my first Made in England Stanley.

Before..









After…



























The Block Brothers..


----------



## planepassion

Here's a PS&W set of dividers that I picked up at an estate sale for $1.00 last week. (I also picked up a Millers Falls combination square complete with the protractor and center head accessories for…$5.00)

These dividers were a little rusty so I took a steel wire brush to them. Forgot to take before pics.

I love the brass appointments along with the beefiness of the PS&W models. I've wanted a pair of compass dividers for a while to make circles and arcs for projects. Even picked up low quality ones along the way. But I'm happier with this vintage pair. They practically jumped off the table into my hand.





































And in use:









My new compass dividers join my PS&W family of dividers. You'll recall that when I rehabed the pair on the left that I tapped the position retaining hole to accept a new wing bolt in my post here.


----------



## jap

nice restore on the dividers


----------



## ScaleShipWright

After several hours on glass+sand paper I think the sole of my #4 is reasonably flat. The iron still needs to be properly sharpened, but I could not resist trying to make some shavings…


----------



## OnlyJustME

looks like scale shavings. perfect for your scale ships.


----------



## bandit571

Just playing around today, waiting until next weekend for a project to start up. So, got out a few planes, just to see which ones needed some work.









The FrankenBailey #5? After a quick trip over the sharpening stones, seems to be a little better









The Millers Falls #9? Looks like it is ready for work?









The Dunlap #5? Hmmm, not too hateful?









It's little brother, a Dunlap #3? Might just be ready? How about a non-red froggy?









From the 1930s, a Hibbards True value #3.


----------



## bandit571

Most of the shavings came from a chunk of pine scrap









As for a plane that wasn't ready for "Primetime"? It is tore down, right now.









And is currently getting a Make-over. The iron will take awhile, being out of square by about 1/8"! The frog was even skewed a bit to cover that angled iron. First trip to the grinder was that great, still a 1/16th out. Let it relax awhile, and then try again. There was one over Red frog, though









and a block plane, or two









The Fancy One! And the not so fancy one


----------



## ScaleShipWright

looks like scale shavings. perfect for your scale ships. 

actually I have these for scale work, hope the #4 will give me more firepower!


----------



## Airframer

Yet another rusty plane saved from the scrap heap. A type 19 or early 20 #5. Gonna set this one up as a jack and leave my other as a smoother. Complete with mystery hardwood handles. Might keep my eye out for a rosewood set to replace them with. Not bad for $6.99

Before (top)









After:


----------



## ksSlim

Aframer, what's the number on that dbl ended block? I could have used one Saturday.

Is that a 40 scrub in the middle?


----------



## Airframer

It's a #130 (see a few posts up for the after pics on that one).

Yep it's a #40. I need to make a cap for it but other than that it's solid. I do have a question about it… when did they either add or remove the brace on the back of the iron bed on the #40. Mine doesn't have one but all the other examples I can find on the net do.


----------



## ksSlim

My #40 has a tallish knob, knob and tote are both rosewood (indicates WWII or later) prior to that stanley used beech for knobs and totes. Further behind the blade, mine has a "Tee" casting.
behind the *bar* (0.125") steel rod that the clamp iron fits behind, early models had a single bar cast in as a blade support.
Later models have a "Tee-beam" cast behind the primary support easily visible in front of tote.

When I get home I'll post photos.


----------



## donwilwol

A Wards master #4

before









After


----------



## Tugboater78

You restore with the blue frog? I have a really rough lookin one sitting in a box on my porch


----------



## donwilwol

I've had Wards Masters with the blue frog, but this is a wartime Stanley made with the rubber iron adjuster screw and black frog.


----------



## Tugboater78

Gotcha, im learning as i see them, i havent been home to check the ones i have out, i have a #3 too which shouldnt need much tlc if the pics didnt lie to me. Hope they both make good users, there is a #6 up on the bay about over that looked pretty i almost went for. But ive boight enough in the last 2 weeks. Will blog of my endeavors. That one u just rehabbed would match my grandpas #5


----------



## terryR

Sweet restore, Don. That's a duplicate for you, isn't it? 
wink, wink, nudge, nudge…


----------



## donwilwol

Justin, the Wards will be for sale if your interested.

Terry, actually that's the only "Wards Master #4 black frogged Stanley built" plane I have, so nope…..no dup.


----------



## terryR

LOL.
I have TWO Wards Master no.4, one with black frog, one is still so rusty I cannot tell. Sure hope it's blue!


For some reason, I've always like the look of the WM4…looks strong, and ready for abuse!


----------



## donwilwol

A type 11 #5.

Before









And now

















Note the word "DAMAGED" stamped in the side.


----------



## 69BBNova

Bought these two saws Saturday a few miles away, I was lucky to even find the place I was just about to go home, then when I looked left there they were…

The backsaw is a no. 4 with extra heavy spine, 16" 11ppi xcut, paid $20…
The hand saw is a D-7 26" 8ppi xcut, paid $8…

Every thing about them points to around late 30s early 40s…

They were in decent shape to start with and so far I have only spent about 2.5-3 hrs cleaning them up for now. I haven't sharpened either one yet but the D-7 actually did a fine job on a piece of 1" x 2" Hickory cut straight also, 
(still need to saw more by hand).

I'm very happy with them.


----------



## HorizontalMike

I don't know Don, I often feel the same as I get older… Dam…"aged" and it does not seem to be getting any better… *;-)*

Nice save, and a nice new tote BTW.


----------



## WhoMe

Don, that is too funny about your #5 Ty11. I have a 3C ty11 or 4C ty11 that I am in the process of rehabbing and it is stamped with Damaged on the side too. I think it is the #3. Mine has a small pin hole drilled behind the mouth so I am sure that is the reason for the stamping. . I got it off eBay a while ago. When I get finished with it, I will be sure to post the before and after pics. I'm actually finally working on the #3C, #4C and #5C type 11's all at once now that I got the #8 ty19 finished.

I wonder where they came from that would have the word Damaged stamped into the sole.


----------



## SamuelP

In the Stanley facotory they would stamp damaged on planes that were not up to spec to ship to dealers. Often if they were ok and could be used thay would let workers take them home. Some collectors like these and more rare pla.es like a #1 or #2 are worth more of course. From what I hear Stanley did a lot of great things for their employees. Left over scraps at the end of the year would be made into one of smaller versions like their folding rulers. For christmas presents.


----------



## donwilwol

its also a little odd the pitting was so bad on the cap, and not the rest of the plane. The top of the iron had a little, but not like the cap.

I have a type 1 Millers falls with the same Damaged stamp. I couldn't find anything on the Millers Falls, so it must have been repaired before leaving, or at least before I got it.

I wonder if anybody collects "DAMAGED" planes. ...... Nope, not going down that road.


----------



## OnlyJustME

I think you're already there Don.


----------



## bandit571

Found a "Tip of the Day" about polishing a saw plate

Tube of autosol or similar

Make a "ball" of aluminmum foil,

Wear some good gloves

Elbow grease as needed

And just rub the "H" out of the plate. Becomes mirror bright clean. No sanding required. Foil ball even picks up any leftover polish, too.

Tip is over at SMC, for further reading….


----------



## DocBailey

I've never encountered a Stanley marked "DAMAGED", but I have seen several marked "IMPERFECT". Here's a #78 so marked:


----------



## chrisstef

Yup ive got a 1 1/4" Everlast chisel marked imperfect. I thought it was pretty cool as well. Suckers been rounded over and is proving to be a bear to sharpen. In due time I guess.


----------



## Tugboater78

Wards master #4
(Made by Miller's falls? It looks more like one that it does Stanley)
Before









After some cleanup and I happened to have some Rosewood pieces


















Still gotta tune up iron and lap sole a bit. It nice and flat. But not as shiny as I want
Plating on cap is 95% intact so I left it.. May paint background black.

No blue frog 

Maybe it's just me but this one and a #3 that's taking a bath atm are heavy. Seem to be some stout planes


----------



## JayT

Nice resto, Justin. Definitely Stanley made. Miller's Falls didn't cast the models in the beds that I have seen, they are usually stamped on the left side.


----------



## bandit571

This is a Millers Falls , made for Dunlap during WWII









Bolts for the handles are a blued steel, or were. Look under the front knobs on these type of planes. Knob should sit on a hump of sorts, making a semi ring. Inside the ring is a set of "wagon spokes" to keep the knob from spinning around. Also good at splitting that knob if tightened down too much.









This one has the black base, and a red frog. Frog bolts are a domed shape thingy. Adjuster wheel on this one USED to be plated with brass, now it is just shiny steel. Somehow, with that war going on, brass was needed elsewhere…


----------



## bandit571

And… After a tour of the Dungeon shop









Stamped into the left side of the base casting " 4D BB" Same plane as above.









Millers Falls mid 40s, or so.


----------



## DaddyZ

How about a $25 Gloat ???


----------



## chrisstef

yes please ^


----------



## waho6o9

Works for me DaddyZ, whatcha got?


----------



## DaddyZ

Time for an Upgrade !!!!!










Garage Sale Find had to talk the guy down from Asking Price of $40

Started with This








After a days work

















Blades still need a good Sharpening or New Blades.


----------



## JayT

That deserves a big YOU SUCK, DaddyZ

Nice pick up


----------



## chrisstef

25 beans DZ !! I paid almost 10 times as much for the exact same jointer. You dog, you suck!


----------



## donwilwol

$25!! That's not even a gloat. What's 10 times bigger than a gloat? Man you suck big time!


----------



## BrandonW

What currency, DZ? That's a nice score!


----------



## DaddyZ

Brandon ^, Oklahoma, so I would Say US Dollars ??

Course I might have traded wooden nickels also


----------



## wormil

Apparently I need to start yard sailing.


----------



## fumehappy

10 dollar flee market ax. 4-5 pound head? R.King / Collins. Probably dates to the 20's or 30's









Sanded the head lightly, sharpened her up on the belt grinder followed by the stones. Scraped the handle with razor blades, then sanded lightly. Couple coats of Oil and she was ready to go


----------



## Handtooler

fumehappy, Nicely done, Sir! And I reall like that short handled seet adz on the table also. Do you do chair and stool bottoms?


----------



## superdav721

Beautiful AX'es


----------



## RGtools

Hewing is great fun.


----------



## OnlyJustME

until you bark your knuckles.


----------



## donwilwol

I restored a couple I never posted here


----------



## fumehappy

@handtooler,
Thanks!
No, i don't really do chairs/stools at this point. That little hand adz is as dull as a stream washed rock, gonna need a lot of work to bring it back.


----------



## bandit571

Arrived about noonish today









Looking a little bedraggled. Rustiness, and dirtiness abound! My kind of plane.









After a few hours of cleaning, sharpening and test fitting.









Sitting in front of a "regular" #5 jack plane. Note the emblem on the iron? Money shot, anyone









Stanley Four Square Junior Jack. 11" long, with an 1-3/4" wide SW iron. Might have the frog a might too far forward?









$12 + S&H Might be worth it??


----------



## Handtooler

Bandit571, Nice project to salvage this 'en. Keep working at the restoration and that'll be a beauty. What vintage size and type#


> Straight cap iron key hole says pre WWII


? I'll learn some day.


----------



## bandit571

This is a Junior Jack aka #5-1/4 size. Sold as a Four Square household plane. Made between 1921 and 1930.


----------



## superdav721

Bandit looking very Stanley


----------



## DonBroussard

@bandit-I have a Stanley 5-1/4 Junior Jack plane, and the background of the Stanley on the lever cap was painted yellow. Yours looks a bit rough, but can you tell if it had the yellow background?


----------



## BillyD3152

As I myself am slipping down the slippery hand plane slope it is good to see that life can be brought to the kind I can afford. Great work being done by you guys.


----------



## Tugboater78

before pics don't show much but here is my grandfathers T17 #5. Painted black hardwood, with rubber depth knob, 1 piece knob and tote screws, and frog adjustment. Has the lever cap with the Patent date. The Tote was broken near the foot and the japping was 75% shot. 


















and heres the afters: stripped the rest of the japping, repainted with several coats of Hammered rustoleum, replaced the wood with walnut pieces crafted by TerryR and now has the 2 piece brass screws, lapped the sole which was amazingly flat to begin with and shined the sides up. the port side was square to sole, starboard was toed in just a bit, nothing i can do bout that. Painted the cap with Chevy Victory Red. its what i had handy from touching up my bumper on my truck. Tried to make the "lips" on the upper casting shiny to contrast the paint but needs more work. Still working on my sharpening, and at the moment lacking some shavings pics due to chaos around the place.


----------



## Tugboater78

since the previous post wouldnt lemme add the rest of the pics I will try here
look at the grain in that tote, its nice!


----------



## CL810

Beautiful!


----------



## bandit571

Upon further redo









The Stanley four Square Junior Jack #5-1/4. Taking on some Black Cherry face grain. Lever cap now has a fresh coat of black on it. The Stanley in a clipped box, and the area above the iron has been polished nice and shiny. Sole does have a few pits in it









But the SW iron is now sharp, with a nice mirror polish to it. Plane underneath it is a "normal" #5 jack plane.


----------



## donwilwol

I keep forgetting to take before pictures lately. Not on this one though.

The before










And after. I decided to leave it and not paint it. I just liked the way it looked.


----------



## Deycart

Don 
The 103 is normally painted on the side, right?


----------



## donwilwol

Yes it is.


----------



## ksSlim

One of my favorites in my shop for small quickie tasks.

If someone finds an extra, let me know. Grandson loves to "work" with the 103.


----------



## planepassion

Here's a Disston 16" backsaw I picked up at a garage sale. Blogged about the rehab here.


----------



## Handtooler

WOW! What a wonderful refurbishment. You've got that kind of work down pat. The brilance and finished shine is truely outstanding.


----------



## terryR

Very impressive, Brad. That plate looks good as new, and I love the old tote. That saw was lucky you found it!


----------



## DonBroussard

Wow, Brad! It looks like you switched the saw plate with a mirror with calves and cows! Beautiful restoration. You keep raising the bar . . .

+1 on the tote too. I like the few dings in the handle that show it was a worker saw and not just a show piece.


----------



## DanKrager

Here are some hand planes that cleaned up pretty well. Like I said on HPOYD thread the squirrel tails never revved my engines until I held this little one in my hands. It just fit so nicely in my hand that I couldn't help falling in love with the simple cheap little thing! A little black paint and it will look better than new!
Before:

















After:

















The #5 was didn't make the after picture. I returned it to the person who gave it to me for a decision about the tote. The ebay ones are too expensive, I think. It is rosewood and I need the brass cap nut. He just didn't know what he was giving away, so I educated him. He is not a wood worker, but he might be persuaded with a Sweet Heart like this one! It looks SO sharp and pristine. I will get a picture after we obtain a tote for it. 
The "EL CHEAPO" block is missing its front knob and the adjuster piece. I'll set it aside for now. It might be good for parts.
DanK


----------



## OnlyJustME

Nice looking cap on that #4 size. Did you find a name on it anywhere?


----------



## DanKrager

No marks except "Made in U.S.A" in casting just behind knob. It looks like a Stanley style cap. There's a better picture of it on HPOYD.
DanK


----------



## Deycart

That is a defiance 1244 plane made by stanley. It's a budget line but way better in quality and looks than a handyman. In my opinion at least, I like the lever caps better than boring old "STANLEY"...


----------



## DanKrager

Thanks for the info, Deycart!
DanK


----------



## OnlyJustME

Shame that Stanley didn't use the 4square cap design on all of them. I really like that one. 









And if they put the border on it like the defiance cap that would have been prime.


----------



## WhoMe

Ok, I FINALLY Finished a plane restore. This is my #3C type 11. 
Before

















Pretty good shape. Surface rust. a bit of sole flattening, sharpen the blade and Whala,
The After shots.

















ANNNNDDD Just for you Don…........... This is the one that was stamped Damaged. Here is a shot with the hole in the sole too.









So now the work is on my #4C type 11 then the #5C type 11. 
I'm getting there… Only need the 4 1/2, 7 and 8 in the Type 11 corrugateds which will take a while to find and save for.


----------



## donwilwol

Great restore. I can't imagine you'll be keeping that damaged piece. Just send it to me for proper disposal.


----------



## WhoMe

Thanks Don but this is the best restore I have done so far. Think I'll keep it. Based on what you were saying about Stanley stamping some of the planes damaged that didnt meet their standards is a interesting tidbit. I thought maybe this came from a school and that was stamped on it so they could claim a loss on taxes to buy more tools.

Now on to my #4. So far, that one is taking more work. Both it and my #5 had badly pitted soles and other parts. I actually had to buy a better frog for the #5 because the pitting was so bad on the lateral adjuster and the frog itself, It was going to be too much work to clean up.


----------



## superdav721

NIce looking planes fellers.


----------



## bandit571

Had a type 9 jointah plane in need of a little TLC. Iron was out of square. Rusties were starting to come back. Don't have a "before" shot, showing all the dirt, but









the wide iron and chipbreaker, after the clean up. Edge is now square, again.









"back porch" is new "like new" clean up









Taking a drive on "Walnut street"









Moxxon TP, anyone?? Just a small, little plane









Bailey #8c, type 9


----------



## donwilwol

A Bailey Tools Co # 17



















And some more pictures


----------



## grfrazee

Don, if I might ask, how much did you pay for that Bailey? I've never seen one, so I'd like to have an idea if I should happen upon one in the wild.


----------



## donwilwol

I paid $118. I don't think its a steal, but I don't really know. I found a few listed here and there, but most are the #14, which I believe is the smoother. Still, even for the #14 they seem to sell consistently in the $300 dollar range.

I also bought a pre lateral #8 for $100. I know that's not a great price, but I was tired from the crappy weather all weekend, and just didn't want to leave it.


----------



## bandit571

A small #3 plane









That came in a mailing bag. Needed a little TLC









Found a bolt to hold the iron and chipbreaker together, flatten and sharpen the iron. Sole needed a clean up. Got to the point that the handles needed a treatment as well









They had a thick, vile smelling "finish" on them.









A WARDS MASTER #3 (look a little better, now??)


----------



## superdav721

Nice bandit


----------



## bandit571

From a rusty, crusty and dusty pile of parts that happen to look almost like a #4 plane









What you see is what I got, today in the mail.









Took awahile, maybe an afternoon.









had a spare lever cap handy. Might need the spare iron/chipbreaker as well.









Iron was bent, by the chip breaker.


----------



## donwilwol

So I bought this painted pre-lat #5. Only to discover it was painted for a reason.





































And the after…..


----------



## JustJoe

Nice save Don. That's a lot of paint to get rid of.


----------



## donwilwol

Thanks Joe. I'm not sure what kind of paint it was, but the course wire wheel would just make little grooves in it, but wouldn't remove it, but the sandblaster took it off very easy. I've never seen paint react like that.


----------



## JustJoe

I want a small soda or sandblaster so bad but I'm too cheap to buy the big compressors needed to run one.


----------



## BrandonW

Another good one, Don. Did I miss something in the photos? Why was it painted, other than to defame it?


----------



## donwilwol

*Brandon*, I guess the pictures hide it better than I thought, but its pitted. It's not terrible, but it'll never shine up. It doesn't look so much like rust, but more like a bad casting.


----------



## lysdexic

+1 to what Brandon said and asked


----------



## Brit

Looks good after you Donified it though Don.


----------



## chrisstef

Lol @ Donified. Andy just coined a new term!


----------



## terryR

Excellent restore, Don!

Another great user rescued from the local restaurant wall…and Donified! Love it…

I must get back to work restoring this old air compressor I have…


----------



## Brit

What Terry! You're restoring an old air compressor? Well that just blows me away. )


----------



## terryR

^LOL.


----------



## Veto

Heres an old Stanley No.2 SW I did the other day. There was quite a bit of rust but it came off pretty easy in the evaporust. Most of the japanning was still there so I left it as is in the paint department (plus people might get mad if I re-japanned a No.2). The frog was flattened as well as the sole and the sides. I made a new knob and tote out of rosewood because the old ones were both cracked, they couldve been fixed but I always enjoy making new ones. I dont think this plane will see too much use but it was fun just the same.


----------



## Handtooler

She's sweet! (Pun intended) Before Sweer Hearts. In that type us the knob considered high?


----------



## donwilwol

well done Veto.


----------



## Veto

From what I can tell based off of reading Patricks Blood and Gore this is technically a "High Knob" but I know there is another knob I have seen on some of the larger bench planes that is exceptionally tall. The one on my plane is 2-1/4" tall. I just got out the calipers and duplicated what came on it.


----------



## donwilwol

The #1 and #2 had a different size knob and tote then the rest, but you are correct, the SW line had a high knob. I'm not sure how many variations of the high knob there are, but there are a few. Some of the bedrocks had even higher knobs.


----------



## Handtooler

What does the acronym SW mean with regards to Stanley planes? There must be over 100 in google's list but none for planes. I know of Sweet Hart and the Logo but that's not SW, huh?


----------



## bandit571

I remember something about Stanley honoring one of their employees named Hart. I even have a Stanley Four Square 5-1/4 with a SW iron in it….


----------



## JayT

SW = Stanley Works

The heart logo was in honor of longtime Stanley company president William Hart. The Sweetheart logo was used from 1910 until sometime in the 30's.

Most of the time I see a tool listed as an "SW", it has a Sweetheart logo.


----------



## Veto

Heres what I could find, this comes from rexmill.com : 
" the logos are the result of the merger between Stanley Rule and Level, the tool producer, and The Stanley Works, the hardware producer. A notched rectangle, in which the word "STANLEY" is stamped, sits over a heart-shaped design, in which the letters "S.W." are stamped. The "S.W." stands for The Stanley Works, and "STANLEY", obviously, stands for the rule and level firm. The heart-shape is a memorial to The Stanley Works long-time president, William Hart."


----------



## Tugboater78

Just spent half the day sharpening blade blades for my some of my planes, after cleaning surface rust off the ones I had in my shed/shop (kentucky summer humidity is awful). ReSharpened my grandpas WW 2 #5, finally got it to shave hair off my arm, so I think I have the skill almost perfected. Threw a quick hone on my #8 I got from JayT, it could shave my 2 day shadow, I'm pretty sure, now. And flattened/ honed both my t11 and t13 5.5's but ran into a problem with both, the chip breakers, despite all efforts, will not seat flat on either. Both have SW blades. I noticed this problem when I got both, and tried fixing before but walked away, had another go at them today.They both seat fine in the center but to varying degrees you can drive a truck through the sides. I am to the point that I am willing to pay someone with more experience to try their hand before I ruin them, both are 2.25" blades and it looks like replacements would be hard to come by. So guess I'm asking who wants the honor?


----------



## Deycart

When I'm about to throw the hat in on the chip breaker, first I look to see if it has any "spring" to it. Meaning when you put it on the blade is there around a 3/16 inch gap between the two? Some of the old ones have lost this spring and they just kinda sit flat on the blade. I put mine in my bench vise and wack the rounded part with a rubber mallet 2 or 3 wacks in the center trying not to warp it to one side. It really is not that hard.

Now I try to get the thing nice and flat or one that has a slight hollow in the center. The extra spring helps pull the center down and flat.


----------



## bandit571

I just use a beltsander to flatten chipbreaker edges. Either run it near the end wheel, or along the edge on the out side. Mark the edge with a black Sharpie. When the black is all gone, should be flat. Add a little back bevel to it, so it is a little thinner where it meets the iron.


----------



## Tugboater78

Aye, just realized I posted this in wrong thread, meant to put in hpoyd thread. They have plenty of spring, was one of first things I double checked from a similar issue with my craftsman/sargeant #6. tomorrow with a fresh look at it, I think I am gonna try to use a file, I don't have a working belt sander atm and was using my cheap box store diamond stone and trying to get that thinner edge you mentioned bandit. Note to self to not work on some things when frustration level is fairly high. Walked passed my car yesterday and noticed the tread of both rear tires was separating from the rest of it, just spent out 400+ to replace both cause gotta have it safe for a trip this weekend. There went my spending money till next week!


----------



## bandit571

Ok, question: Do you have a working grinder? I often use the side of the grinding wheel, as well. Support it on the rest, and keep a glass of water handy to dip the CB in. It will get the area flat. Watch out as you go, otherwise you will wind up having to bend the curved part, again. Hold it so the edge of the wheel is inside the curved area. Fingertip in the center of the CB to give both all the pressure you need, and as a warning when it gets too hot. Too toasty for the fingertip? Dunk the part for a bit.


----------



## Tugboater78

Yes I have a PC variable speed one, that did cross my mind. Using the side of it did not, thanks bandit that may do the trick.


----------



## s2h

I paid $160 for this on Craigslist. It took some time, but it transformed nicely!
















Brand new color scheme.

















Blog 1 http://lumberjocks.com/s2h/blog/32592
and 2 http://lumberjocks.com/s2h/blog/36558


----------



## Tugboater78

Very nices2h


----------



## donwilwol

nice save on the Woodtek.


----------



## donwilwol

Well, I can't post a blog for some reason, so I'll try a little preview here.

So here is the before of the S. Biggin & Sons - Sheffield Backsaw I picked up for next to nothing. So far all I can find is its From 1852 to 1856.



















And after some soaking in evapo-rust, sanding and more sanding, some wire brushing and some polishing it came out like this.


----------



## Brit

Looking good Don. How deep is that saw plate? Looks like there's a lot of life in the old girl yet.


----------



## DonBroussard

@s2h-Nice work on the jointer. I love to see old tools get back to work. Are those colors and trim original to the Woodtek? I'm not sure if the green or the grayish brown (not sure of the new color) was original. Either way, you did good.


----------



## donwilwol

*Andy*, its 5" x18"


----------



## donwilwol

I know, I know, I have a #18 sickness

before










And now




























And a family shot


----------



## HorizontalMike

That's OK Don, at least they are all eighteen… You are NOT a plane-o-phile, close but not quite!


----------



## Handtooler

All 18's? Some have a throat adjustment lever and some none?// Just missing and all throats adjust?


----------



## Brit

18" x 5" - Wow, that's a lot of saw. Hope you used some strong glue Don or did you reinforce the joint?


----------



## donwilwol

Good eye Russell. The one on the right is actually an early 9 1/2 with an 18 knuckle. The new one is just missing it. I could have sworn I had an extra, but I can't find it. The one one the left is an S18 and its missing as well, but that's going to be much harder to find.

Jeez, Andy. Now you've got me worried. I just epoxied the handle.

plane-o-phile, … That's pretty funny.


----------



## terryR

Don, you certainly have a problem with 18's.
Feel free to mail me that SW so you have more room in the shop!


----------



## WhoMe

Don, just think, you only have a dozen more to go to have 18 #18's…. lol


----------



## bandit571

After opening THREE shipping bags









and after maybe two hours in the Dungeon Shop









Still need to hone the iron, and re-finish the handles..


----------



## DonBroussard

I picked up a little 102 block plane recently and today I gave it a deserving cleanup. Just mechanical cleaning with a wire brush on my cordless drill and a little sandpaper of different grits. I still havent figured out the method to get inside those small crevices. Hand wire brushing seems to work the best, other than dumping then in an electolysis bath. I might try that to see if I can improve on the looks. The pitting on the sides looks bad, but it does cut well.

BEFORE:



















AFTER:


----------



## bandit571

Something different>

Started out as a rusty, badly handled, 25 cent saw.









Handle was at an odd angle, and had just two bolts. Took it apart









Had a Warranted Superior to trade totes with, and some bolts. Cleaned the plate, and handled it. Had to drill new holes, after a little grinding on the edge. Bolts and Medallion are steel ones









Remember, this is just a 25 cent saw….


----------



## fumehappy

Picked this gem up at brimfield in may. Electrolosis and black appliances enamel.


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent!


----------



## Handtooler

Beautifully Done! I've never seen one like that before, what's it, and the manufacturer? Why appliance enamel and not vehicle engine enemal?


----------



## donwilwol

A Tho & Tillotson & Co Back saw.




























It was really pitted and I didn't think it was savable. Its not pretty, but it cuts like a champ. I knew sanding to get the pits out would have left me with a pile of dust. We'll caulk it up to character.










After sharpening I had a little walk I needed to take out. I've had this problem last 2 saws. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I worked it out.





































Its still missing a brass nut to. I'll need to dig one up someplace.


----------



## Brit

Well here's the before shot, but I won't be posting the after shot.










Let us know if you will.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/record-stanley-bailey-acorn-assorted-planes-/330948371521?pt=UK_Collectable_ToolsHasdware_RL&hash=item4d0e0f6441


----------



## chrisstef

You wont be poating the after shot cuz you, and i, will be dead before you have time to rehab all those. Must be a buck fiddy there. (150). What a cache!


----------



## JayT

Don would have them all done before lunch.


----------



## donwilwol

now that's a score!!


----------



## superdav721

You guys are on a role since I last stopped by.
Nice work gentlemen.
Andy, are you trying to make me go nuts?


----------



## bandit571

A "before" of four saws I spent a dollar bill to get









yep, $0.25 each. A might rusty, one had the wrong handle on it. And now, the after









One is a Plymouth Rock by Atkins/Pheonix, and another IS a Disston.









The other two? Not quite sure..









Maybe just a "Mutt & Jeff" set??


----------



## planeBill

Nothing special ( I dont think anyway. I dont even know who made this saw or exactly what type of saw it is so if anyone can help, great) just a rusty crusty saw my brother gave me. Decided to give it a clean up. Its still sharp and seems to cut well so maybe I can get some use out of it, if Someone can tell me exactly what its for.


----------



## donwilwol

Great save. It looks like a newer style miter saw. It probably went with a miter box of some kind.


----------



## GMatheson

I got this plane in a box of other planes a while ago. No markings on it other than a 'Zenith' logo etched on both sides of the plane and on the blade. It looks like a #7 sized plane. A little research tells me that Sargent made Zenith planes for Marshall Wells Co. hardware stores. I'm still in the process of finding out the details of when this plane was made.




























I sharpened it freehand using Paul Seller's method on the DMTs and finishing on the strop and here is the required shaving pic.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice restore on the Zenith. Does it have a frog adjustment? If so, what does it look like?


----------



## GMatheson

Thanks Don. It was actually a really easy restore, more of a cleaning really. Here are a few pics of the frog.


----------



## donwilwol

I was hoping you got one with the Shaw Patent. Some of the Zenith had them as well.


----------



## GMatheson

It would have been nice to be lucky enough to have the Shaw Patent but for a user its not something I need. Usually once I get my frog set, that's where it stays.


----------



## donwilwol

teaser photos here, the rest are here.


----------



## JustJoe

Is it a trick of the light, or are those crater-sized pits on the sides?


----------



## donwilwol

there "might" be a few freckles left.


----------



## shampeon

Like golf ball dimples, those only help the plane go faster. Less wind resistance.


----------



## bandit571

Went from a rusty piece of…..Junk









That needed. amongst other things, a new handle, to a "new" chisel









That I even sharpened back up









and flattened the back on









Strange that I couldn't even get to my lathe to work on a handle….


----------



## donwilwol

Siegley-Block-Stanley (SBS) Siegley #18


----------



## lysdexic

Just one more Don and you will enough.


----------



## terryR

Don, that Zenith logo is cool…just won a trans with the same.

Nice restore on the 18…(we can all just copy and paste that line)! 

Actually, I love my lil 18…seems like a pretty cool plane to collect duplicates of. (snicker, snicker)


----------



## Timbo

A cheap Stanley #103


----------



## donwilwol

Nice Job Tim.


----------



## superdav721

Lovely Tim


----------



## 69BBNova

I sort of have a before and after, but I'm only close to finished the one auger…

The bit that's mostly done is a full chisel from the little bit I've learned and was made by Passaic Mfg. Co…

I'm only missing an 11, 14, and 15 but I went from none to 4 braces and a bunch of bits in 2 or so weeks…

All the augers in the third pic will all be useable…

The one bit was tested in pine and oak and did well for a beginner, don't yell but even though I knew better I tested on a rock hard piece of hickory, I hope I never use that wood again.


----------



## superdav721

I likes the bits!


----------



## donwilwol

Bits…..bytes….that's the tie between IT and woodworking!

I like it.


----------



## RGtools

^IP/IPE

Coincidence, I think, not.


----------



## 7Footer

I must say, after exchanging a few messages with Don and occasionally reading Chrisstef's Slippery Slope blog, I kept laughing thinking you guys were a bit out there! Both kept saying how addicting this vintage tool thing is, especially with planes and saws. Well lately I haven't had much shop time because I am spending this summer doing a huge landscape project building 3 different retaining walls and stone steps-But the little time I've had in my shop, about 95% of it I've spent OBSESSING over these planes I have and how eager I am to get them restored, after these planes I will be onto the 9 vintage Disston saws I have. But seriously my shop is a complete cluster-F, a total mess and I have a separate table setup just for these planes! I swear I have spent countless hours (at work) watching video after video after video and reading sooo many articles about tuning planes and sharpening blades. And its finally all coming to fruition, to cap it off, about 20 minutes ago my DMT sharpening stones arrived, I am so excited to get home and sharpen the blade on this Stanley #102, after about 10 attempts at my own ghetto version of Scary Sharp, I call it 'Barely Sharp'. I think I'm going to have to start my own blog, my wife doesn't want to hear me talk about planes, irons, saws, etc. so I need an outlet!

Anyway here is my first full restore (besides getting home tonight to sharpen that blade), a Stanley #102 I got for $1 at a garage sale, in the next few days my Ohio #4-1/4 will be done, then in a couple weeks my Shelton #4, and then a Stanley Bailey #6.














































It looks a little gloopy and glossy because it has fluid film on it, and yes I know the blade isn't set right ;-)


----------



## chrisstef

7 footah - whatcha tryin to say brah? Lol. I am a lil bit out there, actually a lotta bit out there. Much like you i was gifted my first few planes and most of my saws from my grandfather, unfirtunately after he had passed. Ive always felt ive got some old soul in me and that led me to this wonderful obsession with all things old. I find it really satisying that i find myself capable of things that most arent either capable or willing to do.

You'll find your niche in what ya like and how ya like to do it over time. Im about 5 years in and im just coming to terms with a lot of it. Do what ya can when ya can. Most Importantly enjoy it.

Keep up the good work bro. That rehab came out great.


----------



## lysdexic

7' - nice restore. You are correct in your perception. Stef is an absolute friggin nut job. I cant bring myself to bust on Don Yoda as there is probably some kind of Karma violation involved.


----------



## 7Footer

Lol I'm not ripping on either of them! We are all 'out there' in one way or another, but they were both right, Don and Stef kept warning me once you start you cant stop and now I see why!

What I've learned from Don's blog is priceless, pretty much followed his method of tuning 'bench plane style' and I am real happy with it, I just cant wait to get home and try my new DMT stones. I called at least 8 different stores around the area here who were listed as dealers of Fluid Film, no one had it in stock b ut I kept looking, so I started going to local farm and irrigation stores and finally found some, next thing I need to find is the Evaporust, but I think that will be easier.


----------



## lysdexic

I am pretty sure that I saw evaporust at Lowes recently in a gallon jug.


----------



## CL810

7' that first refurb was your E ticket onto this crazy ride - welcome aboard! Man did I date myself with the E ticket reference!


----------



## chrisstef

Related to the E street band Cl810?

Evaoprust also available at autozone and harbor freight fyi.

Thanks for the doctoral confirmation Scotty! Crazy and proud baby. Rip away 7, thats how love is shown around here. Im also running out of things to break Lys' stones about so i could use a new rube .


----------



## CL810

E ticket was the type of ticket for the best rides at Disney. LOL


----------



## donwilwol

smoke and mirrors my man. Just don't look behind the curtain.


----------



## bandit571

Not so much of a restoration, just a work in progress. From a dusty neglected old trans at a yard sale









Broken off horn, split in the knob, finish needing work. to something that MIGHT look like a plane









It does have a bad corner up front









That I don't think was from wear









Put some new handles (recycled from a junk plane) and trying to decide what to put on the cleaned up wood…


----------



## terryR

CL810, I remember the E tickets! LOL

7footer, welcome aboard the crazy train. You can get off at any stop, but you can never leave! The ride will last as long as you do. First, the little blocks, then a few No.5's, then the routahs and beaders, then you'll want a complete set of a certain type…

Best to learn NOW how to hide flat rate boxes from your wife!


----------



## chrisstef

My first ever showing on the before and after thread believe it or not. Its been seen elsewhere but I post for prosperity:


----------



## JayT

It's hideous, stef, what did you do to that poor saw?

Wait, it's Before then After? Got it. In that case, great job! The only way it would look better is to be sitting in my saw till instead of yours


----------



## chrisstef

I figured id create a little patina on that saw JayT. I left it in a kiddy pool for a few days, dropped in a couple of pads of steel wool, spit on it, threw it off the deck and used a coarse wire brush on the brass saw nuts. I think im gonna paint a mural on it once I can get it to twist up on me.

Thanks buddy.


----------



## donwilwol

Stef, you got that one just right.


----------



## carguy460

Nice Stef! Now you can paint an idyllic pasture scene on it and hang it on the wall!


----------



## WayneC

I was hoping for a fishing scene.


----------



## theoldfart

This could be my first before/after. I picked up this Sargent #5, blades in rough shape and the tote needs work. Could someone who has one of these post some pics so I can see what I'm aiming for?
Thanks


----------



## donwilwol

Sargent didn't make a #5, so what you have is probably a type 3 or later #414. I can't find my after pictures of a 414, but here's a 415


----------



## theoldfart

Don, thanks. This will be for a friend who has been more then generous with cherry stock. The blade is pitted but there's about 3/16" of good edge left. My friend also is not "kind" to tools! So I think this should work for him.
Tote is rosewood?


----------



## donwilwol

Its should clean up nice. They are decent planes.


----------



## RGtools

Before. I am still working on after. For once I want a pretty restore and not just a functional one. Does anyone have a spare depth stop? One of mine is completely thrashed.


----------



## Handtooler

Ryan, Do you have the Original back saw that came with that fine implement?


----------



## RGtools

^ I am fairly sure I do. I will take pics of that as well. The handle has been thrashed, painted and has warped a bit, but there is a whole heck of a lot of plate left. The medallion screw is fully sheared off…I'll have to find a replacement there.

I spent most of my shop time today with a can of wd40 in one hand and a bristle brush in the other. This thing was in need of s serious cleaning/tuning. It does not look much better other than the fact that I replaced the sacrificial board, but it cuts dead square and runs smooth. You can't take one of these apart without gaining some appreciation for the engineers to designed it.

Now I need to sharpen the saw, which is already jointed in my saw vise with about 20 teeth filed…I petered out. I can finish that tomorrow.

This is where I would normally stop and just put more miles on the thing, but for some reason I have the compunction to make this one look like it just got unwrapped from it's original box.


----------



## Tugboater78

My older former neighbor who used to be a home builder and hobby woodworker, has moved and has health issues and can no longer work in his shop. All his tools are still in his old shop but he sold the house, I bought his craftsman 3hp 113 model table saw today, it is well worn but in excellent condition, for 75 dollars. He is wanting to sell his stuff, but I think he is having a hard time convincing himself he no longer can use it, he also has a 12" cman band saw, 10" radial arm saw, and a lathe. He also has a twin to the above miter box with the backsaw and many jorgensen/ cman bar and pipe clamps. Not much in the way of hand tools. much more more items I can't remember to list, I am thinking of offering him 500-1k for everything even though I do not have the room. Also has some wood, noticed some cherry and walnut in the mix


----------



## lysdexic

Sounds good Justin. Just tell him that if he ever has a project to do or needs access to his old tools he is more than welcome to come by your shop. It might make it easier for him.


----------



## Tugboater78

Yeah lys I have already told him something to that effect, he has been my neighbor for years and wish I had known him before his health started declining. He is basically running on half a lung and anything he does gets him short of breath, due to smoking camel nonfilters for over 40 years. I always wanted to join him in his shop and learn a few things from him but it never came about. I know he has many skills to pass on, I have seen his work and it is lacking for nothing.

Sorry for hijacking the thread but wanted to hear what others may think.


----------



## RGtools

Justin. I think it helps when someone in that position knows the tools are going to get put to use. I have run into quite a few guys like that who would not sell me a thing until I spent about an hour or two talking shop with them. Picked up some great tools and some great tips that way.

Spent some time in between photo-shoots with the wife sharpening that beast of a saw…hands down the most time I have ever spent on a first sharpening, this thing was screwed up. Oh, and it's long…very long.



















Battle wounds.


----------



## donwilwol

A Stanley SW miter saw. The day is complete!


----------



## RGtools

I need to find a new medallion for it. The one I have sheared off from the stress of the handle warping. I spent a few seconds with a chainsaw file to make room for the harlequined one I put in there for now…I needed this up an running for a project.

Do you think anyone will notice?


----------



## Brit

Notice what? Looks fine to me Ryan.


----------



## chrisstef

I cant believe im gonna say this …

Need a workmate.

Look how comfy Ryan is sittin there.


----------



## terryR

Oh my…a lovely Simonds saw with a SW logo! The end of the world must be near…

Ryan, that tote looks a lot like my Simonds…will have to start the lookout for another medallion. I cannot imagine sharpening so many teeth! Wow…

...really makes me want a miter box!


----------



## donwilwol

Ryan, won't be back in the shop until Friday, so Thursday send me the size of that medallion. We'll see if it fits the $2 handle I picked up Saturday.


----------



## RGtools

^ will do Don. I wish I could repair the thing, but it sheared too close to the medallion, I don't think I could solder a piece of brass in to re-do the threads without causing damage…I might try it anyway, just to see if I still have the touch with the torch.


----------



## donwilwol

I have one somewhere that I drilled and tapped the medallion.


----------



## RGtools

*Stef* hell yeah you need a workmate.

It's odd that is still finds use in my shop when I have a bench, sawhorses, a sharpening station, and bents. It's looks odd, it has flaws, but overall…it works when other stuff does not.


----------



## TerryDowning

I agree with Ryan!

Get a vintage one so it feels at home in your shop!

My workmate is almost 30 yrs old. A gift from my Mother In Law Christmas 1983 (Wife and My first Christmas together)

One of the best tools/shop assistants I have ever owned or used. It does have its limits though absolutely horrible for planing on top of.


----------



## shampeon

re: workmates, I basically hate it when I don't love its versatility. Working with a small shop, I'll always find a use for one. But I sort of hate it. Except when I love it.


----------



## Handtooler

Shampeon, Is that an oxymoran? Or just a long lasting Love-Hate relationship??


----------



## TerryDowning

I do understand what is Ian is saying regarding the workmate. I have cursed this favorite tool may times (especially when a hand plane even gets near it). But it has also come to the rescue more times than it has been a pain.


----------



## Handtooler

I likewise own one since about 1978 and still depend on it ans the plastic clamp stops to secure often. And besides I'm short and its low profile is comfortable.


----------



## 7Footer

I gave a Ohio #4-1/4 a test run last night, I just couldn't wait, took me about 6 different tries to get the frog and the blade set for it to cut at all, and this was the result… Notice the two different types of shavings, the shavings left of the lever cap are from the Stanely #6 that I sharpened prior to see how it would cut, and the shavings to the right of the lever cap were from the Ohio, it was cutting very nicely. I will re-post pics of the plane itself tonight or tomorrow after I get a coat of BLO and wax on the tote, the tote was not finished yet, my wife didn't quite understand how pumped I was about making these shavings, I had a break through last night, the first shavings made from my own sharpening job.










Cant wait to spend a little more time sharpening on the DMT, the #4-1/4 is already cutting nice after about 5 minutes on my DMT's.









I think these shavings are too fine for a #6 jack, am I right? My main problem was the surface I am using is the top from an old coffee table my Dad built in high school, and its only held down with a couple of clamps to a workmate, I dont really have anywhere to put it right now, but I plan on truing it up and making a small workbench out of it, its 3" thick doug fir. I know pretty soft wood but ya gotta start somewhere!


----------



## donwilwol

Some great work there 7Footer. We'll be waiting on the before-after shots!!


----------



## 7Footer

More pics and some rambling here

The Ohio Tool Co. #4-1/4 is back in business!


----------



## donwilwol

4 1/4 is lookin good.


----------



## lateralus819

Heres a #8 i just finished. Can't take all the credit here though, I owe a lot of it to Don. He's been a great help and a wealth of knowledge. Unfortunately i didn't take before pictures like a dingbat but oh well enjoy. This one was in decent shape, the guy i purchased it from i believe cleans them a little before selling. Soaked all the parts in evaporust, blasted the frog and body, painted the body, polished the brass/sides/iron/ etc. I'm going to try and find some cherry knobs and totes to match my #6.


----------



## Tugboater78

Very nice, and she's a beauty


----------



## CL810

Smity said it best about the #8: "it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris." Looks nice.


----------



## donwilwol

That came out niiiiccceee. Let's see some shavings!!


----------



## lateralus819

Will do Don. Man it is a sweet plane. I'm giddy thinking about hahaha….i think im addicted. The number 7 is pretty much done too, only major thing is i have to take the brass rod in and make the new nut, and pick up a new knob and tote for it.


----------



## donwilwol

you meant "make a new knob and tote" right?


----------



## lateralus819

Well…i don't own a lathe, i have been pondering making a tote though! A few actually, now that my in laws table is done i can get to the things i need to do around the shop.


----------



## donwilwol

You make the tote, I'll turn you a knob or 2.


----------



## lateralus819

Sounds like a deal!

Heres those shavings  and one more side shot with the rest. Thats a piece of 2" wide sapele. Cuts really well. The added mass is great. I thought my #6 was big!

Cant see much of it, but the #7 is right next to it.


----------



## Handtooler

You certainly are acquiring a great stable.


----------



## JustJoe

Almost finished with a project. Started with this Stanley 135 Liberty Bell, missing a cutter, broken tote, blown cheek and some bozo had drunkedly tried to round the sole.










New body of paduak, painted the metal (I knew I wasn't going to be able to japan all the thin metal pieces on the frame without drips) and found some new brass screws.










It's not really 100%. I still need to get some metal to make a proper cutter. The liberty bells have that unique adjustment mechanism that sits in a small slot on the cutter. All I had in the pile was regular cutters with the big slots so the cool finger-adjustment bit doesn't work yet.


----------



## theoldfart

Joe, nice bit o' work! well done.


----------



## SamuelP

A 50s era 14 inch backsaw. $5 at an antique store. 









With inspiration from Brit, mads, and Paul Sellers and a set of left over Disston nuts.


----------



## donwilwol

I like it Joe. Are the knob and tote painted?


----------



## JustJoe

The forum is acting fuzzy - posts are here, then they're not. Hope it's not getting ready to implode. I got the auto email that Dan had replied and asked a question. I come here, the question is not here?

Dan - the wood is walnut with ebony stain. I wanted something dark to match the metal and contrast the paduak.

And I could have sworn there was a thread just above me with a saw before I hit refresh. It's not there now. If I did see a backsaw with a new handle and disston nuts then it looked pretty good. If I didn't, well then nothing to see here, just move along…


----------



## tefinn

I noticed that also. Saw that there were 5 new posts, but only 3 were showing.

Edit: Now they are there!


----------



## donwilwol

nice upgrade Sam.


----------



## Airframer

*lateralus819* - DUDE! Your post on that #8 and #7 just reminded me that I have had my 7 and 8 soaking in evaporust for (if I recall correctly) 2 months now? DOH! I forgot about them lol. Need to check on them when I get off of work and get them rinsed off lol. Think they are ready yet? :-D


----------



## theoldfart

Eric, they're meltingggggggg


----------



## donwilwol

Yea, hope they didn't pit Eric.


----------



## Mosquito

nice work Sam. I was thinking about doing something similar this afternoon. Saw a later keystone for $15, and was tempted. For $5, I probably would too lol


----------



## SamuelP

Thank you all.

Mos- I have a 12" Keystone I am thinking about. I would not do the lambs tougne though. It looks a little cheesy on my first one. I think it would have been much cleaner without it.


----------



## lateralus819

Heres a Stanley #80 i just finished, dunno the year, how do you date these things? Anyways.



















Whats the proper way to sharpen these? I sharpened it to a 45 degree. Does a burr need to be turned?


----------



## JustJoe

Yes, you want a burr. On my scrapers I file the edge flat, then make a burr. I use the 45 for the thicker blades like on the #12. 
Edit: I don't think I've ever seen a type study on the #80 (but then I never looked). If there's a patent date on the bar that holds the blade, that might get you started, or if there is a logo on that bar you can compare it to the ones used on the planes?
Edit Again: Looks good….


----------



## lateralus819

Yeah there is a patent date, 6-2-14 and 6-23-14.


----------



## lateralus819

Appears it's a later model, oh well, still cool and My fingers will thank me.,


----------



## JustJoe

Looking at their other tools, the patent dates usually stayed on for no more than 20 years. So maybe 1914-1934? It was made until 1984, so 1934 isn't really young.
The book says 11 inches long, changing to 11.5 in 1947.


----------



## lateralus819

Cool thanks Joe! I gotta finish up my #7. Don't know that I'll use it much with my #8, but it was $30, and i figured why not have all sizes #3-#8


----------



## RGtools

It took me a while *Don*, but here is that medallion:



















I think I could braze a new stem on there and cut new threads (still need a saw nut to fit)...might have to try it.


----------



## donwilwol

Not sure it will hjelp Ryan, but look how I fixed this one. it might at least give some ideas.


----------



## RGtools

Nice. That is a great way of turning the problem on its head. Now I just to find something for the brass nut.

Thanks!


----------



## donwilwol

I may have a brass nut I can send you. Send me a PM tomorrow and remind me to look.


----------



## donwilwol

another thought: Cut the medallion off and soder it to a regular brass nut and bolt. You'd just have to counter sink it a little extra. Again, I may have one I can send.


----------



## RGtools

I thought about that too.

I nixed it becauseI was worried about adding a bit more thermal mass to the equation, not what I want to do when I am already worried about melting the thin medallion.

Then again, it looks like it got welded once, so that might very well be a baseless concern. I should just man up and try it…even having been more than a decade since I did anything similar.


----------



## lateralus819

Heres a G.H. Bishop hand saw, not sure of the "style/type??" It's missing 1 tooth and needs sharpening. One of the saws has a writting note that says "needs sharpening" Who knows how old that is!

The blade says "9S MOORE BROS EMPIRE STATE SAW WORKS JAMESTOWN, NY SPECIAL STEEL" There is one more line below it but i cant make it out. 




































Also have this GH bishop. A few newer disstons which im not sure what to do with quite yet, ugly handles…










This was a lot i got from my grandfather. I wasn't sure about refurbing it as it was his, but i'd rather use clean it and get use out of it then let it sit like this.


----------



## chrisstef

Definately clean em up Lat. Im on a big saw kick and lemme tell ya, a 100% refurb on an old saw is like gettin to second base in middle school and tellin your boys about it. Itll make ya giggle.


----------



## donwilwol

I'm with Stef, except I don't see the point of stopping at second base.


----------



## lateralus819

The first one i did clean up, albeit not to like new condition. He also gave me a saw set, so when i get a chance i will sharpen it.


----------



## chrisstef

^ brits video. Watch it. Twice.


----------



## donwilwol

have you seen Andy's video? http://lumberjocks.com/Brit/blog/36332


----------



## lateralus819

Don, what exactly is my first saw? Was there a particular task for it? Or just a short panel saw?


----------



## donwilwol

@Ryan


----------



## wormil

Airframer, how did those planes turn out after a 2 month soak? Was there anything left, lol.


----------



## chrisstef

Lat its a panel saw for sure. I find it works better at bench height with a Shorter plate than a full sized saw where you dont have a long enough arm stroke to utilize all the teeth.


----------



## Airframer

*Rick* - Surprisingly they are just fine. Evaporust says you cannot over soak ( i.e. it dissolves the rust and then just stops working) and it is true to it's word lol. I had a look at them that night and I have had to leave them in there for now since they aren't in any danger of melting away. I just don't have the time (or have my shop in a resto mode right now) to get them cleaned up. I'll be taking care of that before I flatten my bench though. Gonna need the #8 for that


----------



## A10GAC

Here's one of my recent refurbs; I thought about polishing the sides and painting the lever cap, but I kind of like the dull cast gray color and it feels good in the hand as is.  
This is an early version Stanley No. 18 knuckle joint 
Before:








After:


















Oh, the bench plane in the before picture is a Consolidated Tool Works Pilot Plane. Based upon the info I found it's at least 90 years old. All the metal has been cleaned up on that one, but the wood is still in progress. I just picked up both of these, a Miller's Falls No. 14, and a Disston saw (circa 1953ish) yesterday. I know what I'm doing this week.


----------



## theoldfart

Warthog driver, could always tell when they were flying, distinctive sound. Nice restoration and I'm with you I clean mine but no painting. I'm happy when they work as advertised.


----------



## donwilwol

A type 2 414C.

Before



























After


----------



## terryR

A10, love what you did to your knuckle joint block plane! The bare metal is gorgeous IMO.

Don, another great restore! I can see the 400 series being next in line for my collection. But…where's the tempting chocolate shavings?


----------



## A10GAC

@ terryR & theoldfart: Thanks, this one just felt right. I couldn't replace the missing nickel plating and paint seemed wrong for the lever cap.

@ Don W simply awesome work. The Consolidated Tool Works bench plane is getting a basic clean & sharpen with a little extra work done on the tote & knob. The sides of the casting weren't ground at all from the factory so I'm not going to attempt it in my workshop.

Depending on the amount of japanning left once it has been derusted, I plan on following your tips for the Miller's Falls No. 14. Have you found a red that matches the MF frog & logo? The logo area is completely shot and the frog isn't looking much better.


----------



## bandit571

Picked up a couple small planes the other day. One was made by Stanley for Great Neck, and was just covered in clear coat. Size is a 9-1/2









Not sure about that rusty one, yet. Base did have a "U" inside a circle, though. Spent most of the time trying to bring the rusty one back to life









Note three items here: the tension screw's plate, the shape of the knob, and the shape of the opening in the cap iron. Edge of the iron was a wavy, chipped mess. The GN 9-1/2 iron was ground a bit out of square. Took awhile to redo both irons. Had to paint the rusty one, though, as the japanning was gone with the wind.









Ok, now the after shots









GN 9-1/2 vs Black Walnut edge grain









And that rusty boy on the same scrap of wood









Look a little better?


----------



## donwilwol

A type 10 Stanley 9 1/2. I date this plane somewhere between 1898-1904.

As bought



















After restoration.


----------



## theoldfart

Don, nice work. Did you get to Hulls Cove?


----------



## donwilwol

No Hulls Cove this trip.


----------



## bandit571

Still haven't found out what model the one plane is, or who made it. First time I've seen a wheel like that on a block plane. I know it ain't a Stanley, nor a Millers Falls. Doesn't look like a sargent one, either.

That shape at the bottom of the knob looks firmiliar, though…..Union, maybe?

Iron is a normal 1-5/8" wide, but the base is only 6-1/2" long, barely….

Seems to have a "model number" of II inside a circle. a number 3 in on the ramp.

Worlds apart on these 9-1/2 plane, ain't it…..


----------



## Brit

Lovely work Don.


----------



## A10GAC

One of my finds from last weekend…my $2 Disston crosscut. Based on the aluminum medallion and basic handle shape I think it's from the late 40's - mid 1950's. I tried uncovering an etch, but either the rust ate it or it was never there. The black staining on the handle and pitting on the plate seems to imply that it sat in water for a time.

Before:



























After:



























...sigh…no etch


----------



## A10GAC

And one more…remember these guys?


















The Consolidated Tool Works bench plane may have modeled it after Stanley/Bailey planes but, the casting is pretty rough, there was no extra machine time put into the sides.










The totes cleaned up amazingly well with just some DNA and small chase with 220 sandpaper. A little BLO and wax and they feel really nice in the hand.










I do think the ships wheel logo is pretty cool though










Overall, it cleaned up ok, but I think this one will go to auction to fund a Millers Falls of the same size.


----------



## donwilwol

I like the ships wheel to. I think I have one just like t in the restore queue. Nice job.


----------



## SRRieman

Had some set backs with the planes I'm making for the swap. So I figured I would do something else with my day off from work and restore this no 12 I picked up off of eBay a while back. Paid 20 with shipping, so it was a pretty nice pick up.


















All in all, pretty good shape. Original Japanning somewhere in the 90s. Most of the corrosion was within the threaded parts and the blade.

Flattened the sole and the blade within an hour using my bench top belt sander and then disassembled to clean up the rest of the parts.










The most difficult part was removing the blade "clamp." I was unsure and research led to two different methods the clamp could have been held into place. One that the clamp was held into place by a single rod that could be driven out from the end, and another that it was held into place by two rods, which would need to be drilled out. I couldn't really tell which way to go but after trying to knock them out slightly, I could tell how tight the pins were on one side and assumed they were tapered, meaning they were not a single piece. None of this was the hard part, the hard part was sweating through it all trying not to break anything. But I got through it and cleaned everything up with a wire wheel, a cotton cone, some mother's polish, and I threw on a couple of new coats of paint. I used the DonW's method kind of, I didn't take the original japanning off; I scuffed it up and laid some thick coats over it. Turned out great.



















I picked up some new tapered pins and put everything back together and waxed it all up. Surprisingly, I had it set up pretty good in about 15 minutes. Most of the riff raff I was reading on the interweb almost led me to believe i would be selling this one, but I will be keeping it as a for sure user. I'll mount that handle on the lathe tomorrow to refinish it. I still have to decide on if I want to shave off the pins. I knocked them in tight and during use, they were pretty comfortable. It felt better applying pressure on them with my index fingers than just wrapping my hands around the handles and I felt like I was taking better cuts. I might just turn some covers for them…anyone know what kind of rosewood stanley used?? I have some east indian stuff laying around… Anyways, highly recommend this plane, especially considering the costs of the 112. Even the 80 isn't easy to find for 20 bucks! Thanks for looking.


----------



## DonBroussard

@Scott-Nice find, especially for $20 including shipping. Pics are a little dark, but the cleanup looks pretty good too. I picked up a No. 11 belting plane about six weeks ago and it looks similar to your No. 12 (maybe a size difference?) and I only cleaned it up superficially to see how much more work is needed on it. I understand that the belting plane was used to dress up the ends of leather drive belts where the ends were joined together. It looks to me that it could be used as a scraper (like your No. 12) as well, but time will tell. I'll give that a try after I've cleaned it up and sharpened the iron.

Here's an as-found pic of my Stanley No. 11:


----------



## DonBroussard

@Scott-After checking the bed angle on my belt plane (20 degrees), I will reconsider using it as a scraper plane.


----------



## SRRieman

Yeah my phone…terrible in low light. I'll take a couple more soon when I get a chance. As for your no 11, I can't remember exactly Don, but check around on eBay, I want to say those are collector friendly, if it turns out you don't have a use for it. But…it's pretty cool. And with 20 degrees you might consider picking up a thicker iron like something lie nielsen and possibly using it in a different manner. Only one way to find out.


----------



## bandit571

As found at a thrift store









Just a dollar each. Not much of a restoration, just a good cleaning









of a pre '28 D-8, with a decent etch, and a little panel saw









Look a little better?


----------



## superdav721

looking good fellers.


----------



## dbray45

I have a #12 and use it a lot. I bought the smaller LN scraper plane to go with it.


----------



## wormil

Still need to shine up the sides but I couldn't resist testing it out. De-rusted with muriatic acid (The Works), Naval Jelly, and a wire brush then painted with black enamel. The body looked like hell but the blade was flat, with nicely ground primary and micro-bevels. It's missing the mouth adjusting doohickey and the blade adj lever but for $4.50 it will be a good little user.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice block Rick. You can usually get the accentic lever for about $8 on eBay if it matters. I typically just wait for a $2 parts plane somewhere.


----------



## terryR

Nice job, Rick. I also need one of those mouth adjusting doohickeys in case you run up on a pile of 'em.


----------



## wormil

Thanks for the comments. I could buy another complete 9 1/2 for what the missing bits would cost so I'm not going to worry about them. Someone suggested I use appliance epoxy paint because it's more durable than enamel so I'll pick up a can for next time. I get a kick out of turning one person's junk into a usable tool.


----------



## donwilwol

I don't care for the appliance paint. Its to shiny and doesn't look original. Not only that, most of the painted surfaces on a plane never see wear or abuse. But it's what ever you want your tools to look like. I have a #65 I bought that was done like that. Its a great plane, but its just to shiny. Shiny things distract me 

Either way, its great to see these old tools back in service.


----------



## donwilwol

Probably not a gloat, but I found a Stanley #49 in an Antiques shop for $45. I've been looking for one for a long time, so I brought the baby home.

As bought



















After clean up


----------



## DaddyZ

Sweet Don ^


----------



## JayT

Nice, Don. Did you salvage the knob or have to turn a replacement?


----------



## donwilwol

its the original knob.


----------



## WayneC

Big turn around Don. I am surprised how much of a change it made.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Wow Don, very nice refurb.


----------



## SamuelP

How did you get that patina on the nickel?


----------



## terryR

Awesome save, Don!


----------



## TerryDowning

Nice haul Don.


----------



## donwilwol

Sam, its all wire brushing.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Hey Don, did you split the knob and re-glue? The finished product looks great.


----------



## donwilwol

I didn't split the knob Mike. The split was only on one side so with some air and a thin piece of plastic I poked glue in until i thought it was completely through to the center and clamped it.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Coll! Done that too! No VERer-jeans here!


----------



## SRRieman

Started on a handful of spoke shaves I picked up at an estate sale awhile back. I ended up finishing this one up simply because I wanted to see how it looked more than the rest, being that it was not japanned.





































It's a really nice shave and took some real nice cuts, but I had a hard time adjusting it and I doubt I'll use it all that much. I'll be putting this one up probably on eBay and hoping to get enough to pay for the shaves I plan on keeping…don't have an idea on the value. So I'll probably just put it up for auction.


----------



## Brit

I. Sorby (Punch brand) English mortise chisel restoration. Blog here

Before:










After:


----------



## lysdexic

I love that combo square. Nice restoration too.


----------



## CL810

Beeuuutiful!


----------



## WayneC

Lovely restoration of the chisel Andy.

One of these days I am going to have to go to the UK on an old tool hunt.


----------



## Brit

Thanks guys.


----------



## wormil

Got some calipers today that look really old. The mark is faint but I can make out *_igler and Sons*. Looks like there is at least one letter missing. A google search turns up nothing. Figure it might be a department store brand but who knows. Does that name sound familiar to anyone? I forgot to snap a pic but I'll get one later.


----------



## Fargo3

Here is the Stanley No. 923-12 inch that I cleaned up this weekend. After just a clean up on the handles, I'm not sure if I want to sand them down and refinish them or leave them as is.

Before









After


----------



## shampeon

Ah, Andy. You were the one who outbid me for that pigsticker. Well played.


----------



## planepassion

Nicely done Andy. Great find, great restore and great pictures to go with it. Nice try-square you have there buddy.


----------



## wormil

Here is my caliper haul.

Before:










After: Really they didn't need much work. From top left: Goodell Pratt, Union, Union, Hilger and Sons, Unmarked










My suspicions about the little calipers being old was right. Figured out the missing letter is an H. Found this on practicalmachinist:
"Hilger & Sons was an importer of cutlery and hardware in NYC, founded 1848. Eventually-probably in the 1890s-it merged with Wiebusch, to become Wiebusch & Hilger, one of the top 19th and early 20th century US importers of German, Bohemian, and English cutlery"

Unfortunately some of the threads are stripped but they look badass.


----------



## Brit

That's a lot of outside clipers. You're right though, they do look badass especially against the faded denim.


----------



## Brit

*Shampeon* - Not guilty, I was the only bidder. )

*Brad* - cheers.

*Fargo3* - Lovely restoration on that brace my friend.


----------



## wormil

The faded denim is my shop apron. My daughter sewed it out of an old pair of blue jeans when she was 10yo. 
Silly, but I just love the styling on those old calipers and how it's one piece with spring.


----------



## Brit

Rick I think you'll find that there's a lot of people here who wouldn't find that silly at all.


----------



## donwilwol

Well, we may find it silly, but we're right there with ya!


----------



## donwilwol

Oh, and nice calipers and braces.


----------



## palaswood

Just picked up a Stanely No. 6C for the auction price of $20 - I'm excited. This will be my largest plane so far & it will dwarf my #4C. It's gonna have to serve as my jointer until I can find an affordable 7 or 8. Tote was repaired previously - so maybe I have a tote build project coming up? I have some gorgeous black mulberry I've been saving for something special.

Anyone ever made a tote or knob from mulberry or osage orange?
**oops, meant to post this in Handplane of my dreams thread…


----------



## donwilwol

So way back at the auction I bought the walker turner bandsaw, I won a lot of handplanes. It was 3 planes for $15. They were all in pretty bad shape. The before isn't all that good, I really didn't know what I had. I actually started taking it apart to see what I could salvage.

A type 2 Sargent #410.

The before.



















The during










and after a trip to the parts bin, the sand blaster, some painting, some polishing, some oiling etc.


----------



## lateralus819

Very well done, can't wait to post mine in a few days, finally been 7 days since i last coated but I'm nervous heh.


----------



## wormil

Pretty drastic change on that Sargent.


----------



## WayneC

They came out excellent Don. Think a sandblaster is on my wish list.


----------



## Tugboater78

looking good Don, sand blasting is something I outta try on a few, it leaves such a nice surface to work with.

No before pics, lost em when my last phone went boom… 
EBay buy for 32 shipped, was covered in white paint splatter and lots of surface rust

Stanley t13 5 1/2c


----------



## terryR

+1 to wanting a sandblaster! Got a long line of planes to be restored, but I'm sick of the paint remover smell.

Nice work, Justin. A $32 SW? Sweet!

Don, great job as usual on that 410! I love that next to last shot with the sun reflecting off the lever cap! Simply gorgeous.


----------



## Tugboater78

The japping is decent on the body but it was shot on the frog. had to redo frog, but now it looks funky so I may end up doing it too. Hoping to get to the shop today and dial in and take some shavings, had another project show up on the doorstep this morning. Hope to get it done in short order, and put it up. Shipped out my MF #14 type 3 this morning to, i hope, a good home, she was a good user.

+1 on the paint stripper hate, crappy smell and nasty mess to clean up after.


----------



## lateralus819

Bedrock #3 before.




























Bedrock #3 after!!





































She cleaned up real nice. SW blade. I have another #3 I'll probably upload tomorrow thats in just as good a shape. Paid $100 for both. All that's left is to sharpen the irons.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice 603. That came out really nice.

Excellent 5 1/2 C as well Justin. At $32 the white paint must have really been hiding the gem.


----------



## lateralus819

Yeah i was nervous, through on a light coat tonight, after 8 days, and it STILL wrinkled a tiny bit in a crevice.

Read a suggestion on just using wax on the rosewood so i used my polishing pad on my grinder and put on some wax.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Don,
A number #410 Type 2 !!!! You dog!


----------



## donwilwol

A number #410 Type 2 !!!! You dog!

Worst part Mike, its been in my shop for over a year and I didn't even recognize it


----------



## HorizontalMike

Now THAT is just Plane Plain, er uh, Plain Plane abuse! I'm tellin' ya!


----------



## Tugboater78

Nice bedrock!

Seller pics did it no justice and is why it probably didn't sell as high as many others.. I have to say I was shocked when I won it.

Not as good a deal as my t11 5.5 hiding behind a blue bodied Stanley 5 in a lot.. Seller took pics of the 5 but only 2 of the 5.5, enough that I saw it had 3 pat dates zooming in, got those for 36 I think. The t11 is solid, the other needs some major bladework..


----------



## Wally331

Sweet bedrock man, I'm sure she will be an awesome user.

I just finished up my Disston backsaw tonight, after receiving a set of saw nuts in the mail today. Sometime the generosity on lj's is more then words can describe. Thanks so much grfrazee!!

Anyways the saw came out pretty nice, it still had a bit of pitting, but she will sharpen up just fine once I get the correct sized files. I can't wait to give her a spin.


----------



## grfrazee

You're very welcome Wally. Good to see the finished product! I'm glad you're getting some use out of them. I've got a backlog of a couple saws (and over a dozen planes, etc., etc.) that need to be restored still.

What did you do to clean up the saw plate? I've just been using a random orbit sander on the two I started.


----------



## lateralus819

Heres my SW #3 put back together. Seemed to have lost the frog adjustment screw during the process, woops.




























These both feel really nice. Almost like new. Can't wait to get some time and sharpen them up and use em.


----------



## wormil

Apologies for the off topic post but I thought you guys would appreciate this. Tomorrow is the Midwest Tool Collectors Assoc Mtg/Swap so I made this shirt for myself to wear.


----------



## SamuelP

Nice shirt.


----------



## SamuelP

Stanley #no 71

Before:









After:









Edit: added pic.


----------



## bandit571

Worked on a few handsaws, yesterday









Had three saws like this one, just 50s era Disston crosscut saws. Ran through a few grits of sandpaper









just to get rid of that nasty red stuff. Put the saws back together for a test drive









Notice the reflection on the plate? Got three of these old saws done









Just some old saws…


----------



## 69BBNova

I picked this up locally, I think for a dollar…

I've been fooling around with it for a while on and off, I still don't consider it done yet but I may be able to use it…

Its pretty flat, I lapped it for an hour or so after previously attacking it with my belt sander…

Unfortuntly I found out there is a lot of steel welded inside the socket after I did most of the work, and I've no idea why its there, which causes the tennon to be quite short…

I just continued on it for practice till I figure out a reasoniable solution.


----------



## Deycart

Well you could try to pin it in place by first drilling a hole an then putting a light counter sink on both sides and then peen the two sides down and file it flat. If done right it is almost invisible. This is how a lot of dovetail infill planes are made.


----------



## bandit571

Use a small step drill, and drill out the extra steel. Drill until the largest part of the bit just starts to bite. Check for fit.


----------



## ShaneA

That chisel came out great. I bet it took a while to get that mushrooming out.


----------



## 69BBNova

Thanks ShaneA, actually the mushroom was the easiest, the rest of the chisel looked like it was beat to death on every surface…

I have considered pinning, step drill, even milling it out…

But I think I'll pull the handle epoxy it, then pin it, I just never thought of peening it over, That's a good idea Thanks.


----------



## Deycart

If you going to use epoxy make sure the inside of the socket is cleaned out of crud and has a nice rough surface. Same for the wood too.


----------



## 69BBNova

Thanks for reminding me, I have a bunch of tapered 80 grit sanding rolls that I was going to use on my cylinder heads…

Funny thing is I have only used them since I started messing with wood again.


----------



## donwilwol

Pre-lat, type 4 #8

before









After


----------



## WayneC

Really nice Don.


----------



## theoldfart

Don, it came out really well, the totes are particularly sweet. Collector or user, considering no lateral.


----------



## Brit

Absolutely stunning Don. You have it down to a fine art.


----------



## Wally331

that plane is ridiculously gorgeous, It's the rolls royce no. 8 planes. awesome job


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nice Don. I love restoring no. 8s. It's like fixing up a big ol' caddy.

That's *********************************** for "Cadillac."


----------



## lysdexic

Don, your finish on the tote is perfect.


----------



## terryR

Awesome job on that tote, and the whole cadillac! Don, they should just give you these planes for free since you are restoring history…


----------



## Brit

Well after missing out on I don't know how many No.8 Type 11s over the past few years, I finally bagged this one. Now who do I know who is good at restoring No.8s. Hmmm?

Seller's Pics:





































Today is a good day and there ain't nobody gonna harsh my mellow. )


----------



## WayneC

Very nice Andy. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it.


----------



## chrisstef

Right on Andy!

Today is a good day and there ain't nobody gonna harsh my mellow. )

That is until they bogart that joint.


----------



## theoldfart

Yea, pass it over to me!


----------



## Brit

Thanks guys. I hope there are no surprises when I get it in my hands. I was a bit concerned when I looked at the 3rd photo. If you notice the lateral lever is all the way over to the left which makes me think it might be flapping about from side to side and not doing anything. Time will tell I guess, but I'll be gutted if it has to go back.


----------



## WayneC

I might have a frog….


----------



## Brit

...then I might be PMing you. )


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ohh….all the times I've asked ebay sellers to provide a pic of the frog. And all the times I've had to explain what "the frog" is…

I bet it's fine Brit. Congrats. I find myself manufacturing reasons to use my no 8(s)...hehe. Gotta love the ol' heft and hubris.


----------



## planepassion

Andy, welcome to "Heft and Hubris Nation". Such is the power of the No. 8 as defined by our brother Smitty. The No. 8 powers through panel smoothing action. You just feel manly holding it.


----------



## donwilwol

Sweet Andy. Took me over a year to ,and my type 11 #8. Feels good huh!!


----------



## ShaneA

Nice addition Andy. Looks to be in good shape from way over here too.


----------



## WhoMe

Oh you guys and your T11 #8's, quit your bragging. I have a T17 and I'm still green with envy…
Congrats Andy.


----------



## ColonelTravis

First ever restoration - done except for the sharpening.



















Wanted to say thanks to LJ for assisting me with my recently-diagnosed mental illness called Hand Plane Having. Four more planes (HAHAHAHA! FOR NOW, YE OLDE TOOL SUCKER!) are almost ready.


----------



## WayneC

Very nice Travis. Have you spent any time on the handplane of your dreams thread? Lots of folks there to help enable the Hand Plane Having illness.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/26023


----------



## ColonelTravis

Read that one a lot, Wayne, thanks. Grateful for all the knowledge here.


----------



## DonBroussard

@Travis-Your "after" shot looks like the plane just came out of the factory box. Well done!


----------



## donwilwol

well done Travis. And welcome to the affliction.

And don't make me dig for the before pictures. I bought it, so you know what it looked like. No knob. Tote in 3 pieces, etc, etc. I actual choose it because I thought it was an easy one. I had an nice walnut knob and tote all made, and the japanning looked good. Then out of the acid bath and most of the japanning was gone. So off to the sand blaster. Then the walnut tote was to big. So it's now sporting a new rosewood set of garments. I guess it shouldn't be easy, then everybody'd be doing it.

Its still sporting the victor iron it had. Someday I'll find the right one.

Sargent Type 2 #414. Yes, another #414.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Great job Don! I'm jealous. The lever on my Type #414 is corroded to where you can't read the patent date… Got two early #414s and to later ones. Yep, too many floating around… *;-)*


----------



## ColonelTravis

Don (and others) - what did you use on the wood? I was hoping to get mine to look like that 414 but they came out darker and a little more shiny than I prefer.










I sprayed on shellac and then covered that with Arm-R-Seal. Had to put these things in the sun for the photo because that's the only way you could see the grain, and I even with that I had to enhance the picture a bit. Not going to re-do them, just interested for future reference.


----------



## Brit

"I bought it so you know what it looked like" That's tagline material right there.


----------



## donwilwol

I use oil and wax. If its original rosewood (the 414 wasn't) I just use wax.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Great job, Don. Thanks.


----------



## JayT

My latest. A Craftsman 7C that I'm 99% sure was Stanley made. Unfortunately, there is a little pitting, but nothing that would affect use.

Before



















Now



















Loving this logo with the subtle wave










Even a partial tote sticker










And the coup de grace. Double your fun-see through shavings reflected in the chrome.


----------



## Deycart

I would have to say it was made by millers falls. The knurling on the frog depth adjustment and the nickeled yoke and the mound under the front knob say millers falls to me. Good looking though. Nice thick bed!


----------



## WayneC

Very nice JayT


----------



## JayT

Deycart, that is what I thought when I bought it, but changed my mind once it was apart, cleaned and stripped.

The frog, knob and tote bolts are 12-20 thread. There is a milled out place on the plane tail right where Stanley would have cast "No 7" and there is a cast "Made in the USA" in front of the tote that matches the font used on Stanleys. Too many parts match up for it to be a Frankenplane, so I have to guess Stanley made.


----------



## Deycart

Is the medallion in the lever cap painted or brass?


----------



## JayT

Painted.

Your post got me looking again. Now I'm even more confused, as there are design cues to both MF and Stanley, though leaning MF in more areas. The biggest thing I can't explain is the milled area on the tail. Any ideas on what would have been milled out if it was a MF casting?


----------



## Deycart

Hum… How about some pictures of the back of the lever cap and the face of the frog and the frog bed. That should really tell us.


----------



## JayT

I'll try and do that tomorrow.


----------



## bandit571

Lateral lever says Millers Falls. M-F liked red frogs as well as Sears did. Milled off area would also be for a "No. 22" as that was M-F 's size for a "7". Tote looks like a stanley, though don't it? Maybe an early M-F 22, before they went with a straighter tote.


----------



## donwilwol

That's definitely a Millers Falls frog and depth adjuster knob and as far as I know Stanley never made a ring around the knob like that, which puts it about a type 5 MFs. But as far as I know Millers Falls never made a iron with the cap screw hole on the top. Some MF's did use the 12-20 screw. I thought it was the earlier ones, but I'd have to check some of mine. I don't think I have a type 5.


----------



## WayneC

Are you saying the plane is starting to grow bolts out of its neck? lol


----------



## donwilwol

Ohio tools. I noticed as I was restoring it doesn't have the number cast in the toe. It also has a steel depth adjuster, which is different than the others.



















After


----------



## Airframer

I finally got my #45 cleaned up. Still not sure if I got it put back together correctly yet lol.

Before…



















After..


----------



## TerryDowning

That 45 sure is a pretty tool.

I'm just gonna have to put one on my list of things to find.

Nice job on the clean up Eric.


----------



## donwilwol

that looks fantastic Eric


----------



## superdav721

Nice 45!


----------



## bandit571

An Ohio Tool Co. of Auburn NY #05c, the before









it's the one in back









still the one in back









and the after









the front porch









the groovy bottom









and the cleaned up frog









and the back of the frog









Not a bad jack plane…..


----------



## CL810

Eric you sure do know how to dress up a 45!


----------



## DanKrager

And Bandit, you sure made THAT old plane come alive!
DanK


----------



## donwilwol

bandit, I've never seen a folded lat on an ohio tools before.


----------



## terryR

3 impressive restores! Good work, gentlemen! Makes me wanna scrub some rust…


----------



## Brit

Don - you continue to raise the bar.
Eric - Wonderful work on the 45. I bet that was a lot of work.
Bandit - You certainly turned that one around. Well done.

Update on the No.8 I recently purchased. It was waiting for me when I got home this weekend. It was with some trepidation that I unwrapped it, constantly saying to myself "Please be OK." Couldn't see anything wrong with it at first glance, so I took a longer harder look, tried the mechanisms, checked the casting carefully, and finally took it apart. NOTHING WRONG WITH IT !!! HOORAY. I checked the sole and the sides for flatness with my long Starrett square. Perfect. I checked both sides at various points for square. Perfect. HOORAY AGAIN. I'm so relieved. Took a few photos for posterity.














































Is it normal for it to be packed with saw dust under the frog?










Time for some new family shots (excluding my woodies)





































Next year I hope to restore and tune all of them (probably as a job lot) and put them back to use. I really want to do them now, but the restore pile is big and time is short. Still at least the No.8 can now be ticked off the list of tools I need to acquire.


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, the last few planes I found in the wild (3,4,6) had the same build up of sawdust.

Edit BTW that's a mighty fine screwdriver you have there. I've been looking for a set for some time now.


----------



## bandit571

Now, you have just to pose with it like Patrick Leach does









Just remember to not break a sweat doing it, even though that is a very expensive piece of cast iron…..


----------



## theoldfart

I don't know Bandit, forehead looks a bit shiny! Must be the light. )


----------



## Brit

Eric, I got them here. They come in a set of four, but when mine arrived the bubinga handle on the largest one had a small crack in it. I phoned them up and they sent me another one out, so I now have two of the biggest size.


----------



## racerglen

In a "nice" paper box .. Andy you do know how to deal ! LOL..


----------



## Mosquito

Nice Andy. I'd say most of the vintage planes that I have bought had that same build


----------



## Brit

I found myself picking through it Mos trying to identify all the woods. )


----------



## planepassion

Andy, yes, I typically find sawdust under the frog whenever I rehab a plane.

"...trying to identify all the woods." I KNEW it. You, dear sir, are an experiential archaeologist. I'm looking forward to your blog post on that one. It's cool to touch the evidence of projects decades in the past.

And +1 on your screwdriver. That's a lovely tool.


----------



## CL810

Andy, welcome to the Heft and Hubris club! Great find!


----------



## Brit

*CL810* - Actually when I took it out the huge box that the seller had sent it in, my wife was there. The conversation went something like this.

*Wife:* What the hell is that thing?

*Me (proudly):* It is a Stanley No.8 jointer, the largest bench plane that Stanley made. It's the epitome of heft and hubris.

*Wife:* Heft and what?

*Me:* Hubris

*Wife:* Isn't that an Arabian dip made from chickpeas?

*Me:* No darling, that's hummus. Google H-E-F-T A-N-D H-U-B-R-I-S. So she did and this is what what she got.










*Wife:* Do you know some bloke called Chrisstef who is quoting another bloke called Smitty?

*Me:* Sure do. I'm buddies with both of them. Smitty coined the phrase "heft and hubris" in relation to the No.8 and Chrisstef uses it as his tagline.

*Wife:* You're all as sad as each other really aren't you?

*Me:* Whatever.


----------



## Tugboater78

Hahahahahahahaaaaa that's funny


----------



## chrisstef

Now that is some funny stuff Andy. My wife feels much like yours. We're a crazy bunch of weirdos.


----------



## theoldfart

My wife just roles her eyes and says "yes dear"!


----------



## TobyC

Hey guys, when you read that don't forget to make it sound "English" in your head, it's even better that way!


----------



## Brit

That made me laugh Toby, because I was sitting here trying to imagine what 'sound English' will sound like in different people's heads. So many English dialects to choose from.


----------



## donwilwol

i'm not sure I can read the word "bloke" without it sounding English.

to funny Andy. You need to set up one of those reality cameras to follow you around. I'd watch for sure.


----------



## CL810

don't forget to make it sound "English" in your head

I was imagining Andy and his wife like the characters on Monty Python that dressed up as women and had tea. ;-0! Sorry Andy. Was it Terry Jones and John Cleese?


----------



## WayneC

Oh my god Andy… lol


----------



## BigRedKnothead

LOL. Good stuff Brit. Thanks for sharing. I too envisioned a few monty python characters

Crazy how some stuff "sticks" on here. And then we start communicating in code.


----------



## JayT

Gah, Andy. I almost dropped my tablet because of laughing. The wife is looking at me funny and I can't even begin to explain.


----------



## terryR

Wife: Do you know some bloke called Chrisstef who is quoting another bloke called Smitty?

Too funny! Already sounds English when I read that phrase! LOL


----------



## Brit

I believe it was George Bernard Shaw who said of America and England - "Two countries separated by a common language." Very true. Sometimes it can be problematical. Just take a look at this comedy sketch which was actually done by two Australians.


----------



## TobyC

So true!


----------



## Brit

*WHAT!!!! Emoticons on Lumberjocks? Whatever next?*


----------



## TobyC

I've been a fan of "Brit Coms" for years so English sounds pretty normal to me, but an angry Scott or Aussie is something else altogether!


----------



## TobyC

*WHAT!!!! Emoticons on Lumberjocks? Whatever next?*

We need them! Helps to convey your message.


----------



## planepassion

Andy, you're a brave chap to be opening tool-laden parcels in front of your woman. I have to take care not to cross the "you-bought-another-one?" threshold. Or the dreaded and disapproving, "What-do-you-need-that-one-for?" stare.

But I've put the home team way ahead with the addition of two drawers under my workbench. I was able to shift six planes that used to be in plain site from storage shelves to hidden resting places in the drawers. So now the garage looks a little less cluttered. And I can start-slowly, one, by one-to add new ones 

I think it's great that she actually Googled heft and hubris.


----------



## bandit571

The second plane in this weekend's restore









The one out front. Didn't quite turn out like I wanted to. Oh, it cleaned up nice and purdy, and the brass shone like jewels. Iron was like sharpening a block plane's iron, just a might bigger. Got it to make some shavings, too









Purdy, ain't it? As for a shaving









Was trying to get a thinner shaving, and SNAP!









Guess I COULD use a small hammer to tap things in place. Plane is a Shelton #04…


----------



## donwilwol

I've got one of those adjusters. will trade for an Ohio #5


----------



## LukieB

Andy, I laughed so hard at that that my wife asked me what's so damned funny. I had to explain the whole thing to her, then when I read you and your wife's comments back to her just naturally busted into a Brittish accent when I got to the word bloke. Don is right, you just can't use that word with out it sounding English….good stuff man.


----------



## Mosquito

Lol who else just googled "heft and hubris"? It's more than just that screenshot too… it's about a page and a half before anything other than lumberjocks…

It made me laugh


----------



## CL810

That's "bloody good stuff."


----------



## TobyC

People on these computers are so strange.


----------



## TobyC

Who are these Lumber Jerks?


----------



## bandit571

That would be Grannie Bernice, and a grandbrat showing all about a computer.

Re: the Sheltons (yes, I have two bases) may put put up for "parts plane" on ebay. Have a couple block planes to post as well. The Sheltons may get joined with another strange looking "block plane" to use as parts.

Still have to clean the sides of that 05c, kind of dull, and nasty looking. Thinking a good polishing might be in order.

I guess Grannie Bernice does have a very wicked sense of humour, and can make even a sailor blush with her dirty jokes….


----------



## 69BBNova

I picked up this Miller Falls No.1 yesterday morning,the handle bar had been poorly repaired and I couldn't stand looking at it…

So this afternoon I dug out some steel, although its only 16ga and 12ga would have been better I figured for now it would suffice…

The first thing I did was to file the broken ends so it would have the correct profile. Then I scribed the overall shape and hole locations on the steel…

Since the steel was so much thinner I made it a bit wider to help resist bending and its actually stiff enough to use (for now).

The handle was also a bit loose so I mounted it in my vise and used epoxy to fill the gap and added enough that it would completely cover the frame stub that extends inside the handle up to the top of the counter bore, plenty solid now…

Paid about $12 dollars, I'm not sure but I think it was well worth it. Now to drill something.


----------



## theoldfart

Nice repair! I love using the little drill, just be careful. The small bits will snap if you let it get off 90 degrees.


----------



## Brit

Nice save.


----------



## 69BBNova

Thanks guys…

Right now I'm trying to strip the nickle plating off the original part so I can do a proper repair…

I read on Smith & Wessons site that ammonia can be used with a bit of scrubbing…

If that doesn't work I'll try Brownells plating stripping solution…

I'll let you know later today.


----------



## RGtools

Andy, I too have had that same conversation with the wife.


----------



## 69BBNova

I couldn't stand looking at the first one I made, so as usual I made another…

I must of been lazy yesterday because I had a piece of steel that with just a bit of work I could use…

Its now the proper thickness (actually .025" thicker) and I countersunk the screw hole this time…

The worse part is I cant get out of my head that I want to buy a baby engraving chisel to reproduce the markings…

Somebody* PLEASE STOP ME*...lol


----------



## WayneC

Isn't OCD a wonderful thing. LOL


----------



## TobyC

Now you did a good job.


----------



## Brit

Very nice restore on that drill. Good for another 100 years.


----------



## 69BBNova

OCD a good thing? I haven't decided yet…lol

Thanks for the good words everyone it helps, I just wish my friends would get to see this stuff also…

Hardly anyone out in the world has seen all the things I've done since I joined, they really are more aware of what I've done with cars over the years.


----------



## TobyC

We are your friends, Bonehead!


----------



## racerglen

Awwww..+ what Toby said, my car buddies are "somewhat" disinterested in my adiction on this side as well although it's handy that one does have a sandblaster and dosen't charge or realy question WTF I want with 24" of cast iron cleaned up (#8..hehehe ;-)


----------



## 69BBNova

Thanks Guys,

I feel there is more of a community here than most sites I've checked out, In fact I joined LJs very soon after I spent reading threads here for about a week…

The only other site I've joined ( and posted much) was for PCs, and although I was never flamed (mostly teens early 20s), I was never comfortable posting…

In fact when some found out my age they almost couldn't believe it.

My last PC build for example, not quite done got lazy…


----------



## TobyC

So…. how old are you??


----------



## 69BBNova

54…half way dead…LOL


----------



## TobyC

Hey, don't talk like that, I'm 55!!


----------



## bandit571

Just a kid….

( I'm 60…..)


----------



## theoldfart

Watchit young feller! Gotcha by 1.6666667 :0)


----------



## TobyC

Guess we're all old farts.


----------



## theoldfart

Oh yea, happy trails and goodnight!


----------



## racerglen

65 This coming Sunday.


----------



## CL810

*Nova* - does Vapo-rust get the bugs out of computers? ;-)


----------



## TobyC

CL810,

For the big bugs he uses that pry bar!


----------



## 69BBNova

Actually I use a sledge for bugs and pests…LOL


----------



## bandit571

Just got to the point of learning about this cameraski, and the bloody batteries die off..

Did get a few shots of a red plane









a head on shot. A side shot









and a better look under the hood









Now awaiting the drying on a finish on the wood parts. That front kanoobie really soaked the stuff up.


----------



## WayneC

Nice Bandit.


----------



## TobyC

*Did get a few shots of a red plane*


----------



## TerryDowning

Curse you Red Baron!!!


----------



## planepassion

Hey guys, I got a great deal on a MF No. 73C yesterday. It's pristine, came with the manual, and with all its parts…or so I thought. The only missing piece is the Elevator Assembly for the rear saw post. By chance, do any of you have a spare sitting in a parts miterbox that you'd be willing to sell to me?


----------



## donwilwol

that's in nice shape Brad. looks like mine, but after the rehab.


----------



## superdav721

You guys are to much.
Brit you are one funny dude.


----------



## Brit

What's life without a laugh Dave.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Amen!


----------



## donwilwol

here is a project you do when you just don't want to do anything.


----------



## WayneC

Looks just like old.


----------



## Brit

Don - I'm surprised you even bothered with that one. I have to admit that I wouldn't have. I admire your dedication to seeing old tools put back to use.


----------



## terryR

A forged screwdriver? Looks awesome, Don. I'm certain the maker would be proud of the restore!


----------



## TobyC

Perfect handle tools.


----------



## JustJoe

Brad - No promises, but I've got a small pile of miter boxes out in the shed, if you get a pic of the exact part you need I will take a look.


----------



## donwilwol

toby, who made those. I love the ones I have.


----------



## DanKrager

I've never seen tools other than a screwdriver with handles like that, Toby. I have the other screwdriver (in the world) that you don't have!
Awesome collection. Thanks for sharing that!

DanK


----------



## planepassion

Just Joe, bless you. I'm looking for an elevator assembly for a Millers Falls #73 C and it looks like this:










It's located on the sides of the saw guide posts.


----------



## terryR

Don, I think they are called Perfect Handle Tools…all over eBay.
I suspect prices are about to inflate a bit. LOL

Edit: Seems many companies used the name to reflect the style of handle…


----------



## TobyC

The ones above are not mine, they belong to some guy named Google Images.









They made some with metal scales too.

Rose

H D Smith

PAPAWS

Wiktor


----------



## JustJoe

Sorry Brad, no luck. I'll keep an eye out for you though.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I dig the looks of those tools as well. Pretty sure that's where lee valley got the inspiration for these screwdrivers. At 40 bones they seem like a deal compared to some of the vintage prices.


----------



## TobyC

Garrett Wade


----------



## planepassion

Thank you anyway Just Joe. I knew it was a longshot, but you never know.

BRK, now those are some purty screwdrivers. I like the flat handles because you can get a good grip on them without them spinning in your hand.

Toby, the vintage drivers have a charm of their own as well.


----------



## donwilwol

I like that the steel goes threw the handle. Who don't tap a screw driver with a hammer from time to time.


----------



## Brit




----------



## terryR

Yeah, Don, you need eye protection for that dangerous trick! LOL

I love these tools since they resemble full tang knives! The LV choices are sure pretty (cocobolo?), but give me a vintage set that needs the wood replaced…days of fun! Cannot believe I haven't seen a tool like this!


----------



## GMatheson

I started cleaning some of the smaller tools that I picked up recently. Here is a 6" Stanley no.25



















According to this type study I found that they date this bevel between 1907-1909.


----------



## terryR

Greg, thanks for sharing that Type study! I have a similar bevel gauge to be restored soon…and I love being able to put a date with the vintage tools…half the fun, IMO!


----------



## johnstoneb

I wanted a spokeshave found these on ebay.









After a little bit of work. I have this/









almost forgot the try square and it is still square.










Here are the money shots


















I need to find a fence and depth stop for the 78 not bad for $5.50 apiece.


----------



## JustJoe

red, who sells those $40 screwdrivers? I like the tips on those better than the wedge-shaped things on a normal screwdriver.


----------



## WayneC

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=70159&cat=1,43411,43417&ap=1


----------



## terryR

Here's one of my favorite lil planes…a Franken' no.18 with a SW iron…after some recent storm damage entered my shop.










Yuck…

Window repaired…time to re-restore some planes! I worked over the knuckle joint fella today. WD-40, brass wire brush, and some nice wax.










Even sharpened the iron since I use it so much, and ran a test on some Bubinga…










Nice to have an old friend back!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nice Terry. I love me some knuckle blocks.


----------



## donwilwol

much better Terry.


----------



## Brit

Very nice Terry. Can't beat a well-tuned block.


----------



## GMatheson

Here is a group before and after of some gizmos I picked up last week.


----------



## terryR

Here's another poor plane damaged in the recent storm…Stanley No.4;type 17 I think…










I hated to see this one get messed up since I made the knob and tote for it, but Mother Nature is hard to argue with, ya know? Anyhow, I re-cleaned the plane today. The usual methods…WD-40, wire brushes, and fine wax for a finish…










I re-sharpened the iron which is badly out of square…but my plan WAS to slowly bring it back to normal over several sharpening sessions. The NEW plan is to hope for a LN 164 later this month, and place the Stanley on the till. LOL

oh…shavings…










...see how far over the lateral adjuster is to get full-width shavings? well, almost full-width.


----------



## superdav721

GMatheson thank you for that link. I have a 2b, 4 and a 7. That made my evening.


----------



## BinghamtonEd

Here are 3 planes that I picked up for $10 (or $3.33 apiece)...









Here is the No.5 before :









And after :









I haven't gotten to the No.4's yet, and I'll decide whether I want to repaint them (90% of the japanning on the No.5 is gone) or just leave them naked.

The only missing piece is the slotted thumbscrew, or whatever you'd call it, that holds the chip-breaker to the blade on one of the No.4s. I stole it because the No.5 didn't have one. Does anybody have an extra one laying around that they'd be willing to part with for a fair price?

P.S. Please ignore the workbench mess. It's my old junker bench, that I plan to get rid of as soon as I can find time to clear it off.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Looking good Ed. If most of the japanning is off…the hard work of repainting is already done. I'd do it. Check out one of DonW's blog or rexmill.com for advice. 
I've got the screws you need, and lots of other parts. Shoot me your address in a PM and I'll send you one.


----------



## terryR

A quickie restore…Bridge City Tools 5" TS-1 Square from the mid 1980's?










And after a bit of Murphy's Oil Soap applied with 1500 grit pads…then wiped clean with shop towels…










It's dead, balls-on square. Got a few dings and age marks…but will be used with pride.


----------



## DonBroussard

Ed-Nice save on the 5. It looks like it's fresh out of the box!

terryR-That square is a little beauty. Rosewood makes me smile uncontrollably. Brass parts look purdy too.


----------



## BinghamtonEd

Thanks, Don. It'll get repainted once the other 2 are ready as well. For just a few bucks, I was pleasantly surprised at how good shape it was in underneath the rust. The only damage was it looked like someone caught a nail with the blade, but that ground out just fine.


----------



## terryR

Don, thanks! You should see the cool piece of purpleheart propping up the square! I hear it served in Afgan, then was shaped onto a sweet marking gauge…


----------



## donwilwol

This one will not be complete until I find a replacement for the broken frog. A Shaw Patent Sargent #9c.

As bought


















Cleaned up.


----------



## terryR

Nice work, Don! Wish I could help with spare Sargent parts…

The tote repair looks great. And excellent work cleaning the original knob, too! Gorgeous rosewood!


----------



## BTimmons

The tote and knob on that Sargent look fantastic. More colorful than you usually see on most planes.


----------



## Mosquito

Very nice Don


----------



## Mosquito

Already shared it on the Handplane Thread, but I suppose I should share it here too

T10 #10 I picked up a few weeks ago. Might still want to pick up a new lever cap for it, as it's got a chip in one corner, but for now it works


----------



## Brit

Don - Fabulous restoration. You're making the rest of us look bad though.

Mos - Another great restoration. One day I'll get to my planes. Trouble is, I can't stop buying saws. )


----------



## Mosquito

I've been having that problem lately too Brit lol The one in the background of the "after" shots above is the one I just picked up yesterday. I'm keeping an eye out for good deals on stuff, but I'm trying to tell myself I won't buy more tools until I finish restoring all the ones I have. At least as far as bench planes go. I've still got 4-5 in the backlog I have to do


----------



## Brit

Nice Mos, I missed that. I got up this morning and the sun was shining, so I thought good I can finally clean up the plate on a No.7 I'm restoring. The wife had other ideas though. She wanted me to finish making some Tubular Bells for a prop on her carnival float. Stupidly I did both and now I'm freakin' knackered. My saw plate was the same colour as the one you have there. I haven't finished it yet, but the rust is off at least.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Brit- too bad the miles are so many. I would totally trade you some nicely restored planes for proper saws


----------



## bandit571

Been cleaning up a #3DBB Dunlap by Millers Falls









Not too bad for just $12


----------



## racerglen

My first real paying job, as in serious pay, was fighting forest fires.
This was the tool we used most.









For some time it's been in the back of my mind to have, again, the grub hoe, Polanski, that we used.









I chanced on this at my farourite shop, and got this for $10..

refurbed with my Millers Falls/International Harvester red









I'd covered the 2003 Kelowna firestorm that took out hundreds of homes and with this years losses in the firefighting community what a better item to have to remember.









Reground the axe head and the hoe end, but didn't get too serious about the hoe part, axe is SHARP, as my thumb can atest, some BLO on the handle and done.


----------



## donwilwol

Well done Glen.


----------



## racerglen

HMM..seems I can't edit my post..
What I wanted to add was the WOOD handle was what came with the tool, well weathered, although my memory says what we used had a double bitted axe type rather than a deerfoot. This one was a challenge, when I got it off it didn't want to go back, it'd sprung even as dry as dry could be.
Ended up using a clamp to force it in line then re wedged it and used "Chair Lock" wood sweller to firm it up.
That was followed by paint over the whole head.
Chair lock I've used for years for stuff like this and it works realy well, hammer handles, axe heads and more.


----------



## racerglen

Thanks Don..


----------



## Tim457

Nice job, Glen. I learned what a pulaski was from one of the forest service documentaries on youtube. Nice to see it cleaned up.


----------



## GMatheson

Here is my Stanley no2 I tried to bring back to life. Gave it a swim in Evaporust then took a no name donor plane to a friend to braise a new wing on. After I got it back home I painted everything, cleaned the brass and refinished the wood.

Everything was looking great until I went to use the lateral adjuster and the blade pushed on the new side and cracked the weld. The new side was a bit thicker than the original and the weld was only on the outside edge so I guess the little push was enough to break it.

It's just a little setback since I see how nice this plane can be.


----------



## ShaneA

Dang Greg, you had it looking tip top too.


----------



## Handtooler

Beautiful clean-up that's a nice tool. Can it be re-welded/brazed once again for the crack?


----------



## ColonelTravis

Stunning, Greg - love it.


----------



## TobyC

How bad was the no-name, maybe you should have just used it.


----------



## planepassion

Refitted my 1980s Intersoll Rand miterbox with a 1930s era Disston made for Millers Falls Langdon miterbox. Didn't like the low quality of the late-model Disston that it replaced. Not a steal at $38.00 shipped, but I like it.




























The only "restoration" I did was to wirebrush off the rust, sharpen it (25 degrees rake, 20 degrees fleam) wiped down the handle with alcohol, then put three coats of wax on everything. The saws back and forth action was a little rough, but I took 400 grit sandpaper to the underside of the spine followed by several applications of paste wax. Now it actions smoothly.

The sawplate of the replacement is fractionally thinner than the saw it replaced but the additional play appears to be nominal in use and I've been getting square cuts. And happy hands that are caressed by rounded edges versus the boxy ones on the old saw.


----------



## GMatheson

Toby, the donor plane was a no5 that was missing most of its parts. I'm hoping to reattach the side this week. 









That saw looks nice and comfortable Brad. Great addition to the mitre box.


----------



## TobyC

And it was BLUE!


----------



## donwilwol

*Greg*, so you sacrificed the side for the #2 and now you're fixing the #5? Did I get that right?


----------



## GMatheson

Exactly. There aren't enough blue no5s around and who needs a no2 anyway? It's too small for my hands


----------



## lightcs1776

I love the planes. Great job, y'all.


----------



## donwilwol

sooooo….. the sacrifice plane for the sacrifice plane was?


----------



## GMatheson

Two Blue?


----------



## GMatheson

The no2 is back together and I think this time it will be permanent.

When I snapped it off the first time I noticed my buddy didn't bevel anything and the braising that was left after grinding it smooth was about the thickness of a piece of paper. I cleaned it all up with my dremel and added a bevel to the inside and out then glued it back together with some JB Weld.










Now all that is left is to repaint the base and polish it up.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nice. That looks good.

Still can't believe you mutilated the poor blue no. 5 though….lol


----------



## GMatheson

Don't feel too bad. I still have this lovely blue handyman plane laying around the shop.


----------



## TobyC

Now there's a comfy handle!


----------



## terryR

Hate to admit it, but that Handyman is about the same nasty blue color as my farm truck.

Wait, it might even look BETTER than my truck!


----------



## chrisstef

Yea but your farm truck works


----------



## 7Footer

Shelton #4, turned out pretty well although refinishing the tote was a pain. I'm getting nice thin shavings but they are narrow, I guess I just need to keep adjusting but it seems like its very hard to get this thing tuned just right with the way the chip breaker is, and tips would be appreciated! Blog is here


----------



## planepassion

Wow, Footer, that Shelton did turn out quite well. You have it performing nicely.


----------



## JustJoe

It's coming along but it doesn't look like it's taking full-width shavings. Is the edge flat or cambered, is it in crooked or is the sole not flat? And I know it's nitpicking but that tote looks a tad naked. Call me a chauvenist but I say a full-figured rosewood tote can dance naked across my screen anytime she wants, but the plain jane ones really should put a little mascara on before leaving the house. Maybe a bit of stain to match it to the front knob?


----------



## donwilwol

Haven't you heard Joe, the fair skin look is in. Tanning booths are being used as blanket storage now.

Footer, pay no mind to the rosewood chauvinist, that Shelton did turn out quite well. They are a little finicky (Sheltons, not rosewood chauvinist). Keep puttering with it and it'll take full width, or camber it and make a Jack with a fair complexion!


----------



## Timbo

The Stanley 60 1/2 is my favorite and most used plane. This one looked like it had an evaporust bath then left to start the rusting process again. I wasn't to sure about some of the pitting as it was everywhere.




























I was able to get it flat smooth and shiny


----------



## TerryDowning

nice job Tim. My 601/2 is my fav block plane too.


----------



## dbray45

Nice work Tim.


----------



## DaddyZ

Nice One Tim


----------



## donwilwol

Nice block Tim. 60 1/2 was my favorite until I got the #65.


----------



## lateralus819

I have about 7 restores to do right now…can't wait to get time to do them. Seeing this thread makes me wish i had free time.


----------



## superdav721

wonderful job Tim.


----------



## dbray45

I just bought what was advertised as a veneer hammer - paid $18.00 plus shipping. Well, I received it - in the pictures, it looked like it was brass or bronze and the handle was good.

As it turned out, the head was iron, the end that was to be used for veneer was mushroomed over and irregular, the handle was cracked to a point that it was worthless.

Yesterday I made a new handle from a piece of ash and cleaned up the head to be flat and cleaned up so that it could be used as a small veneer hammer.

I will post some pictures later.


----------



## dbray45

One thing I have noted on this site - as people buy the old and rusty, especially the new folks, once you have done a few restorations and learn how to sharpen and care for your tools, the work that these folks do is much better.


----------



## donwilwol

Before. A Stanley 9 1/2 curca 1889-1898 (type 8a)









Now




























With my type 10


----------



## donwilwol

Not quit as impressive, a craftsman 3732 (Stanley #65)


----------



## pastahill

The last few weeks i had a little time to work on my over the last year collected tools. Specially the screwdrivers came out very well. I´am still on the hunt for new ( old ) ones.



















For more pics look here



















The ferrule of the big one was so rusty that it crumbled away, when i tried to clean it, so i had to make a new one out of brass.



















for more pics look here














































The blade was so rusty that i dont recognized first that it was from Stubai, which is a well known, high priced tool making company from Austria. ( No kangaroo in Austria )


----------



## b2rtch

Lee valley

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=70159&cat=1,43411,43417


----------



## Tim457

Wow pasta, those turned out great. The bevel gauge looks almost new.


----------



## racerglen

x2 with Tim, great work on the bevel guage, and the rest !


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nice work Pasta. Those all look great!


----------



## LoriF

*Don W * "Nice block Tim. 60 1/2 was my favorite until I got the #65". What made you change your mind?

Everything I know about planes I learned here, little by little a nugget here and a nugget there putting the pieces together. I saw countless posts: Caution "Slippery Slope" but I got so caught up gathering my d**n nuggets then….........Whoosh! 
Sorry, I wandered off topic which is to say Thank you to Don, WayneC, Smitty, BigReadKnothead,TerryR, mafe, Smitty_Cabinet (just to name a few) for sharing your wisdom, knowledge and infectious passion because you re-ignited the passion for woodworking which I had long forgotten decades ago. I've been created a short list of the basic items I'll need to start but until I'm able to do so I live vicariously. Stanley 60 1/2 on my list could change to #65 Thanks for taking the time to read my post.


----------



## Deycart

I prefer the 65 because its a bit wider, heavier and has a nicer cap IMO.


----------



## LoriF

Thanks Deycart I appreciate your input.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

LoriF- Much love flowin' back at ya.


----------



## donwilwol

If you haven't figured it out yet, I've got a bit of a knuckle plane fetish. That gives the 65 an edge.


----------



## dbray45

Camera phone is not that great but this is the hammer with the new handle. I drove the wedge a little too deep and cracked the handle a bit but it is solid.

Its not fancy but it works and is comfortable.


----------



## Brit

A lot of fine work going on here…

Carry on.


----------



## superdav721

wow hammers, planes, wrenches and bevel gauges. nice work guys.


----------



## TerryDowning

Took the time to replace the blown out tops of my 30 yr old Workmate 300

Before









After


----------



## Slyy

Question for some of the restoration gurus. I have a stanley made in England plane. The overall condition is very good, but it has hideous plastic tote, knob and adjustment screw! I would like to attempt replacing these using the templates provided by LeeValley's website. Being very new to the hobby the only scrap hardwood I have is several board feet of 4/4 mahogany. This is obvious not thick enough to cover the totes thickness, do you think it would be feesible to glue or epoxy two pieces together to shape out new parts or is this a bad idea?
Thanks everybody!


----------



## donwilwol

Jake, I've laminate them with success, http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/29805 many others can be found on LJs.

And here is some more help with the tote, http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2012/10/12/making-a-bench-plane-tote/

If the 4/4 is 15/16" thick, it will work.

Keep us posted.


----------



## Slyy

Don, thx for the hasty reply friend!! I'll take a look and let ya know! Appreciate the extra info as well.


----------



## Slyy

A friend gave this to me today oddly enough


----------



## DaddyZ

Very Nice Friend there


----------



## Slyy

Seems he thinks it was picked up in an antique store. It's covered in some clear coat which I think the antique dealer out on there to make it "more antiquey" so it's gonna need a thorough cleaning. Already lost its originality as a result so I'm sanding her up and goo a do a more thorough of a restore. Pics to come!


----------



## cabomhn

Got a chance while home over break to do a little work on a Stanley no. 4 I had gotten over the summer but never got to finish! In the end I'm pretty happy with how it came out.


----------



## CL810

Great job Matt!


----------



## CL810

.


----------



## Slyy

She's pretty Matt! Great work! I've got about 10 restores going on almost simaltaneously (including the Stanley #122 posted earlier) hopefully I'll get one or two done this weekend so I can post some before and afters! LJ's has been very inspiring so far!


----------



## Handtooler

You've done a mighty fine job of restoring a very collectable and useable plane! ! Atta-boy.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job Matt. Have you typed it? It looks like the cap may have been replaced with an earlier vintage.


----------



## cabomhn

Don, I was actually wondering about that. From what I can tell the body with the patent date and the lack of knob ring is a type 13, however that should mean that the lever cap has the block Stanley logo indented in it but it doesn't so I figured it and to be something replaced but I really wasn't sure. Looking at the dating site it looks like the cap could be anything type 12 and older, except the one off mine has lost its nickel plating somewhere along the way


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Yepper. If it's just got the 1910 patent date, looks like a T13 to me. My fav. Matt I have an extra of the correct lever cap for that plane. You can have it if you want. Lemme know. 
Great job on the restore.

Here's a t13 no 4 1/2 I cleaned up. It had been spray painted over the japanning. The even painted the brass depth adjuster…uhhh!. Not sure why the did it. The japanning is in nice shape. I was able to get that crap off and leave the original japanning.


----------



## Airframer

You know Matt.. looking at the second pic I can almost make out a SW logo on the blade. Is there a Heart with SW in the middle on there? That would correlate with the 1910 patent date. If so you got a keeper!


----------



## cabomhn

Big red nice job on that restore there yourself. I do appreciate the offer but since I'm just restoring this for personal use I'm ok with the lever cap being off but thank you!

Airframer you are correct, a little hard to see but it is there!


----------



## donwilwol

To be honest Matt, I don't even think its a Stanley cap, but its still a great restore and will make a very fine user.


----------



## Airframer

Finally have some restores in work. Got my 7, 8 and 18 painted today and are currently drying in my "kiln" ;=)



















I have only had these 8 months… should have them done by this time next year at this pace lol..


----------



## Slyy

Haha, love the kiln Eric! Doing the same thing right now with my garage space heater to cure some two part epoxy I'm using to put a broken tote back together! Use what ya got. I don't know about this time next year, but you're certainly on pace for a 2014 unveiling!


----------



## racerglen

Aww, look, they're cuddling !
My youngest snagged the oil heater for HIS garage this year..


----------



## lateralus819

Heres a few adjustable squares i just cleaned up a little. Bought these, along with a few others that weren't worth a thing, for $35. I think these alone were worth it.



















This is a Athol No.500. 9 inch. The level is still functional.




























This is a 12" Athol No.500. The handle on this is better then the 9", but the 9" blade is better than this. But they're both remarkably cool squares! This 12" was the reason i bought the lot, it looked like a starrett. Minor pitting on the 12" but it's usable. The level works on this as well. If you notice some bits of rust, those spots were hard to hit, and i was going for a new look, just a little cleaning.


----------



## Slyy

Nice lateralus, just bringing 'em back to functional use is more than what they were before! Hopefully you'll get a lot of use out of them.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job on the squares. They should be a pleasure to use.


----------



## cabomhn

Ok, I'm going to marginally break the rules here but consider it an addition to my plane post a little bit ago. Maybe this will be useful to a couple of you guys for the winter weather. Here is my ghetto-rigged solution to getting the temperatures up to curing temperature.










This is something pretty much everyone has (a cooler and a lightbulb) and a little aluminum foil. With the foil on the temperature stayed a constant 85 degrees and with it off stayed about 70-75. The insulation of the cooler makes it ideal. The flat bottom allows you place your planes with the really thick paint needed for the "japanning" look to stay flat so the paint doesn't run at all. After the initial 3 hours for the paint to set I removed the foil and then use screwdrivers to hang the tote and knob with the poly finish to allow them to cure. Maybe this might help someone out!


----------



## donwilwol

I've seen old refrigerators used the same way Matt. A single light bulb keeps everything to temp.


----------



## Airframer

Yeah they are snuggling lol. Been drying planes this way for a while now. Seems to work pretty good.

Matt - for smaller items (could have done the #18 and the frogs this way too if I had thought about it) I usually use a cheap toaster oven to bake the paint on with. When I was building custom guitar effect pedals that is how I would bake the paint on the enclosures. You can usually find a toaster oven at a thrift shop for $5 or so. Just don't use your wifes… she gets angry and the food tastes terrible lol.

It just gives you more control over the temp range but you can easily burn a paint job if you aren't paying attention.


----------



## Slyy

Well there's not too much difference here. My first brace drill I think it's an EC Simmons, don't know much about them but it seems they had a relationship or were part of Keen Kutter? This example was pretty good cosmetically, just had a bit of rust but a decent patina on most parts I didn't want to take away by a trip to the EvapoRust tub. Mechanism was filthy inside and difficult to work, cleaned that up so it works very well now (interesting design also). The split wood handle (also interesting) and the wooden palm head (correct name?) were very thirsty for oil and not too pleasing to the eye. Now you can get some decent view of the grain and feels much nicer in the hand (don't know the wood type). Picked this bad boy up for a whooping $2.

A before with some close ups of the logo and dates:

























And some afters:


----------



## summerfi

I'm pretty sure those handles are rosewood, Jake. Nice find!


----------



## Slyy

Any chance anyone has an estimate on the age of the brace? Stanley planes have more websites devoted to them Than Pamela Anderson, other brands are a little harder to discover information about.


----------



## Slyy

Okay this was another pickup a few weeks ago. Stanley no 5 that was in pretty dang bad shape. I really wanted to keep as much (if not all) the hardware on it so it was a mighty struggle to fix the tote and knob, both of which were pretty badly damaged. This one has a lot of character and story I think.

Some before glamor shots:

















The tote, you can kinda see, was broken clean in two halfway down. The front portion was also broken in three pieces, you can see how the owner must have really needed this thing to work, so he threw on a few washers and wrapped it wire to keep it together and working (good story there I bet).









The tote was fixed with some brownells acraglas (fiberglass resin epoxy) so was the front knob, you can see the first fix on the tote plus the remaining portion before the fix. I think I may keep the horn like it is, it's quite rounded indicating the previous owner must have used it a lot, it fits my medium hands just fine and I'm kinda digging the character. Also there's a view of the front knob after I reattached about 1/4 of the side that sheared off.

























Front screw hole on the tote was also blown out so fixed that with only hardwood I have on hand, mahogany, but with some BLO it should darken up eventually and be a little less obvious:









And finally:

































First plane restore complete. Even the wife was impressed.


----------



## ksSlim

Nice save.


----------



## CL810

Nice work Jake!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Yessir. A bold save. Eventually you might come across a rosewood tote that is too bad to save…..and you can use that one for repairing the horn etc.


----------



## Slyy

Slim, Clayton, Red - thanks fellas! The uglier the better I think, buy 'em cheap and most of the fun is in making them look like a tool again. Plus I don't mind a challenge (especially when it comes to wood repair). Just picked up a few more rusty planes and a Stanley carpenters level, oughta be some more fun!


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job Jake. There are plenty of challenges out there.


----------



## chrisstef

Ut oh. Jake's got the sickness. It goes like this buddy … "My name is Jake. Im an addict. Im addicted to rusty tools."


----------



## Airframer

Nice job Jake! If I am not mistaken that too looks like a SW plane! 2 SW restores in a row on here? Dogs and cats living together? Total chaos!

I have been wondering about all the broken totes out there. We seem to be able to easily repair them and the user of yesteryear had just as much if not more skill than we have now but they always went with nails and bailing wire for tote repairs. Have there been that many improvements to glue since these were broken or do we just care too much lol.

I pulled the 3 planes out of the kiln yesterday and pealed the masking and cleaned up the over spray. All that is left is to clean the rust from the attaching hardware and get the irons back in shape.

I do have a question though… I bought a pair of walnut totes for the 2 big guys to replace the broken originals with… what method of finishing would be best to get them as dark as possible to match the rosewood knobs with? I have some dark walnut danish oil and also some ebony stain.. maybe a combination of the 2 or would just the danish oil suffice?


----------



## CL810

"My name is Jake. Im an addict"…..

It's been # days since my FIRST restore and # days since my LAST restore. I need a fix.


----------



## ssnvet

I'll play…. Jet CTAS 3 HP 10" cabinet saw purchased out of a (leaky) storage trailer for $100

before….










Now the center piece of my shop…










You can see the process in my blogs


----------



## donwilwol

So sweet Matt!!


----------



## terryR

Awesome job, Matt. Jeez, $100 up front, and probably the same amount in sandpaper and WD-40 and paint? Well worth your time and investment IMO! Shame on anyone who buys a new $200 table saw…

Eric, try ebonizing the walnut…steel wool in vinegar for 4-5 days…keep it warm…apply as many coats as needed to get the desired blackness. Danish Oil works, too, several coats…Hard to make it look reddish with oil, though.

Ya know, I've seen so many busted horns on plane totes go un-repaired, and have obvious signs of use AFTER the missing horn…I wonder if the 60's and 70's saw a bunch of ham fisted users which preferred all four fingers on the tote? That fancy little horn sticks out in the way! LOL.


----------



## Slyy

Stef - you might be more right than I (or my wife) want to believe!

Eric - yup SW all the way, the #5 plane is chipped badly so I've still gotta fix that before I can use it. The 122 restore almost done and ready for a reveal!

Matt - Good Lord man! Epic find and an epic restore on that cabinet table saw! Sometimes you just realize life is happy with you when you get that kinda good work going on!


----------



## chrisstef

Right in the head? Not a chance bud  But I do know how all of us ended up here and it started out just like you are doing now. Gimme the rusted, nasty, paint splattered $3 handplanes and ill turn em into shiny, useable tools again. The hook has been set.


----------



## Airframer

The first of 3 is finished (sorta) I say sorta because I need to go get some JB weld and fix an F-up of mine. I was cleaning the threads on the adjustable mouth with my tap and I went a smidge too deep with it and blew a hole out the bottom  .

Pretty sure JB weld will fix that up.. if not.. anyone have an extra mouth laying around?

Here's the hole..










And a before (really thought I took more than just one)










And after..














































I am holding off sharpening the blade until my other 2 are ready for that and do them all at the same time.


----------



## donwilwol

^ouch!!


----------



## Airframer

Yep.. not quite what I said when it happened but I'll leave this place family friendly. Think JB weld will do the trick or should I shop for a new mouth?


----------



## donwilwol

I'd do both, the jb short term and a new one when it happens by. I may have one, I'll check.

Nice restore, other than the "opps".


----------



## Airframer

I just snagged one on fleabay. Patch now and replace when it arrives.


----------



## donwilwol

double post from the saw thread.





























And Now…..................





































Somebody asked about this tip. I'm not sure what it is, but the bottom part looks like some kind of wood reinforcement was used. I mixed up some epoxy, darken it and just filled in the gaps. There was some wood showing, like the bottom part of the tip had deteriorated and was filled.










and a current thumbhole family shot.


----------



## Deycart

Hey airFramer I think you just bought it from me. Are you also in oak harbor?


----------



## Deycart

Airframer I think you just bought it from me. Do you live in Oak harbor?


----------



## Slyy

Excellent Work Airframer, always a PIA when you find yourself making booboos like that (I certainly know I say a few four letter words at myself). Jb weld outa work pretty well as anything, my father-in-law uses this stuff to shape the inside of cylinder heads for racing motorcycles, he's never encountered a problem with it.

Awesome work as well Don! Jealous of your thumbhole hole family! Good clean up on that one!


----------



## Airframer

HAH! Yep I think I did! I thought the name seemed a bit familiar ;-)

Just finished up my #7 and #8

Before..


















(Don.. that is the rusted up #7 you sent me ;-) )

After..

#8 Type 8




























#7 Type 7


----------



## Deycart

Well send me a PM and I can let you pick it up today and bring your plane I have two plates and we will see which one fits better.


----------



## Airframer

Well, I met up with Deycart.. super nice guy but unfortunately we found out my plane is actually a #19 not an 18 which means it has a longer mouth plate. No go on that but now I know I have a rust supplier just down the road from me 

So Don… have a mouth for a #19 laying around somewhere?


----------



## donwilwol

Probably not. As far as I know I've only had one #19 in my shop and it has no intention of leaving. The #19s are a lot harder to find.


----------



## Airframer

Probably not. As far as I know I've only had one #19 in my shop and it has no intention of leaving. The #19s are a lot harder to find.

Oh yay.. lol. Guess that is both good and bad news huh?


----------



## donwilwol

yea, you definitely broke the wrong plane!


----------



## Deycart

I would try a hard clear epoxy in that hole. I have repaired a few planes with JB weld and it will leave streak marks on the wood. Or you could just leave it. It is in a spot that won't effect the plane at all.


----------



## Slyy

Airframer, nice reclamation on those long irons!


----------



## Airframer

Thanks Slyy. I was determined to finish them in the same year I got them in lol.

Don - Story of my life. Though can't say it is "broken" really. I could just lap the sole like Deycart said and call it a day. My only concern with that would be any marks left behind by the hole.

I think I am going to try an epoxy of some kind just to keep dirt and crap out of the hole and make the sole smooth. Details on that tomorrow after I get to the store.

I COULD take it to work and mix up some HYSOL 9396 and carbon flock to repair it but that might be over kill lol.


----------



## donwilwol

as a user, it shouldn't hurt anything. I have no idea what HYSOL 9396 is, but I never looked at overkill as a bad thing.

The annoying part (from your part) is you turned a $60 block into a $6 block. But I guess we've all been there. At least you found out it was more valuable AFTER you broke it


----------



## Airframer

True that lol. I never planned on it for resale just needed a user no not upset about that.

9396 is industrial epoxy used in carbon repairs of aircraft skins. Think 5 min epoxy x 10 and that is the strength of it. Toss in some carbon flock (loose carbon fibers) and you have it as strong as it's gonna get. Probably won't go that route though ;-)


----------



## donwilwol

wow, I need me some of that!


----------



## chrisstef

x2 Don. Need it.


----------



## Airframer

Here ya go.. have at it! http://www.ellsworth.com/henkel-loctite-hysol-ea-9396-epoxy-adhesive-qt-kit/?gclid=CIrx9tvq27sCFWZyQgodBTQAqQ only $216.00 for a quart kit


----------



## donwilwol

$216.00 to fix a $60 plane. Yep, I can see me doing that!


----------



## Airframer

That stuff is fun too.. if you mix it slightly wrong it will start smoking and get really hot just before turning into a brick lol. It's always fun to see the new guy running around with a smoking cup trying to figure out what the hell he is going to do with it.


----------



## donwilwol

ahhh, and a chance to burn down my shop while spending $216 to fix a $60 plane. Better yet!


----------



## Deycart

Here is a Defiance Jack that I picked up. The plane was in wonderful condition just missing a cap iron screw. This is more for the box restoration than for the plane. The old tape came off really easy with a bit of help from a heat gun. It just left a really nasty sticky residue. I just keep wiping and applying heat until no more came up. I didn't really want to experiment with trying to remove all of the residue. 







































































Here is how I held the sides together while I ran a bead of white elmers glue on the inside of the corner. I also replace some of the paper tape with some stuff I found on ebay. It is the real deal the kind you need to use water to activate.


----------



## Airframer

I figured out how I am going to fix the plane.. details in my blog http://lumberjocks.com/Airframer/blog/39181


----------



## Ripthorn

I heard Eric had himself a fun time with a 19, posting to get to end.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice save on the box.


----------



## Slyy

Deycart - nice change up on the restoration subject there! Spice the thread up with some variety there!


----------



## Brit

I cleaned up this old Kent pattern Elwell axe today, but I neglected to take any before photos. Cuts great now whether splitting, chopping or paring.


----------



## donwilwol

A handy tool Andy. It looks as good as new.


----------



## planepassion

Nice tool Andy. That handle has a lot of character. Oh, the stories it could tell. How did you go about sharpening it?

And good snag on the tree-fall wood. I got some red maple that way and even though I painted the ends with paint, I still experienced checking. But it's very dry here in Colorado. Happy New Year buddy!


----------



## Deycart

Another box project for you guys. This one didn't come with a bottom. I just glued two sides of a cereal box together and then measured and cut. Fits nice. I figure 30 years from now the bottom will match the top.


----------



## donwilwol

nice box re-make Deycart.

Ok Terry, one more along the collector vintage. Type 5 #5



















And after


----------



## Airframer

Going by WhoMe's suggestion I need to look for one just like that lol… though can't imagine finding a Type 4 #4 or a Type 3 #3 very easily not to mention a Type 1 #1!

That #5 came out great! I have a SW on it's way that will push my Type 18 out of the till finally.


----------



## donwilwol

The type 4 #4 won't be to bad, I've found 2 or 3. The type 3 #3 is going to be costly!!


----------



## terryR

That's a gorgeous Jack, Don. Nice work!
I think I'm beginning to like low knobs.


----------



## Slyy

Andy, Deycart - some more interesting non-traditional objects for this thread, I'm digging it!
Don - another great restore, gosh I need get onto my shelf of rust and make some more usable tools


----------



## Brit

Some stunning work going on here guys. I love it.

*Brad* - I used a large second cut file to restore and shape of the bevel on each side, then a smooth cut file to remove the initial file marks, finishing by draw-filing. Then it was on to my 1000/8000 waterstone. The angle of the bevel on each side was determined by resting the waterstone on the back edge of the bevel and the cheek of the axe, then lifting it off the cheek slightly. I used small circular motions with the 1000 grit until I'd worked the whole bevel and could feel a burr along the entire cutting edge. I repeated that with the 8000 side of the stone, then used a stropping paddle loaded with Autosol to get a mirror shine.


----------



## BustedClock

Hey Don,

Admitting that you know a container cargo ship more about this stuff than I do, that picture-in the original post-that's labelled a Stanley #54 doesn't look like a plough, or rabbet, plane to me. I'm pretty sure that's what the Stanley 54 was. Or, at least, that's what Patrick's Blood and Gore says.

So, what is it, really?


----------



## Airframer

I think you misread the description. That is a Stanley #S4 not a #54 which is a stamped steel version if a #4.


----------



## BustedClock

Ha! That'll teach me to read without my spectacles!

While I'm bugging you… Do you have a good resource for dating Stanleys? Blood & Gore is great for describing them, and learning the history, but I know my No. 7 is ancient and I'd like to figure out just how old it is.

One last thing, do you only collect, or do you occasionally sell?

Thanks and Happy New Year!


----------



## BustedClock

Sheesh! I must be tired. Obviously, Don W wasn't answering my original question. I think I need to go to bed now.

Oh, and Happy New Year any way!


----------



## Airframer

I'm just a tinkerer. Can't really call myself a collector since i don't focus on one type, I just have a sickness for them is all.

I like http://www.rexmill.com/ for their type study. If you post some pics of the plane, the frog, the base without the frog and any other parts folks around here could probably get you close.


----------



## WhoMe

AF, that is a really good typing study on that rexmill site. I have that one bookmarked now. That rexmill is great for typing the early ones for sure.

Busted, I have always used this type study 
And this Logo Type study to narrow my planes down.

Don, I have always liked the shape of the front knob on the earlier type planes. It seems to be a little flatter and wider. Really nice one too.


----------



## donwilwol

*bustedclock* I have a list of typing resources here, http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/24092

I used the mega chart but also like Jon Walter's book. Rexmill is a good quick reference but its doesn't always get you were you want to be.


----------



## Airframer

Well, I think in this pile of rust is a #19 base. 3rd from the bottom

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STANLEY-LOW-ANGLE-BLOCK-PLANE-PARTS-/161186917896?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&nma=true&si=owPS0roT7gdsRWTr8Y23I5%252BJn0g%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

Also a #203 and a few other adjustable mouth plane bases. Probably over paid but if it yields a new mouth and a couple complete blocks it should be worth while.


----------



## planepassion

Thank you Andy. I copied and pasted your axe sharpening technique to have it handy for my own large edged tool lot.


----------



## Airframer

Not a whole lot to this one but just before the boy got sick yesterday I was able to squeek out a cleanup on my SW #81 scraper…

Before..


















After.. I tried but the decal didn't make it.. oh well..




























Now to figure out how to sharpen it.. If you google how to sharpen a scraper you get 5 million results all with a different method. Most show creating a square edge and then folding the burr but this blade has a bevel on both ends.. Help?


----------



## DonBroussard

@AF-I cleaned up my No. 80 a few weeks ago, and experts here advised sharpening a 45 degree bevel then burnishing to make the hook. The experts were correct. It worked for me!


----------



## donwilwol

Its typical to pull a burr off a bevel on those scrapers. I use 25 degrees but the most common is 45 degrees.


----------



## Airframer

Do I bring the hook around to the bevel side or the back of the bevel?


----------



## donwilwol

Back.


----------



## CL810

Eric, my #80 and LN scraper plane both have 45 degree bevels.


----------



## Airframer

Thanks guys. 45 degrees it is (as that is what is already there).

An update to the continuing saga of the #19.. well the base I got in that lot of block planes is indeed a #19 but it is a wayyyyy earlier type and the mouth is just different enough to not fit even with some fiddling. How early is it? I'll know more once the lateral adjuster is out of the evaporust and I can read the patent dates.. (yes there are patent dates on the lat adjuster if that gives anyone any clues?).

I have now decided this is a fools errand to try and find a suitable replacement of a decent price so I am going to just let it ride like this. It is perfectly solid and will serve as a reminder not to be a dumbass lol..


----------



## donwilwol

Well, there is a knuckle cap coming at you that'll fit a #19, and its early.


----------



## Airframer

That's awesome Don! I hadn't even considered that yet lol. I have the 203 in the bath right now. I'll slowly be churning these out one at a time for a bit.


----------



## Slyy

Next plane revival: Millers Falls 18c. According to Don's typing links, I think this one is a WWII era baby.
This one was not as beat up as the Stanley no 5 I posted earlier, wood was in good shape some of the finish on the iron cap was a little flaky so it didn't turn out as shiny as I might like, but she's still got plenty of character!
Some befores:

































This one turned out pretty nice, I like the tote coloration, cleaned up well and with some natural tint danish oil it really brought out all the natural and years of worked in colors in the wood. The frog's paint was pretty well intact and with not knowing a good replacement touch-up color, I just let it be.
Some after glamor shots:

































Been cold in the shop, low of 8 degrees last night, high of 19, pretty dang cold for Oklahoma so it's been hard to get motivated to get out there. The thought of using these in my eventual bench build is pushing me to get busy more than anything! Can't wait to get a chance to use it out! Thanks for looking!


----------



## ksSlim

Nice save. Make any shavings yet?

What part of Oklahoma?

The tool collectors are going to have a get-together 8 Feb 2104 in Joplin Mo.
If that's not too far, would be great to see you there.


----------



## Slyy

KsSlim - no shavings yet with the new acquisitions. Nothing yet to use 'em on for the time being. Have messed about some with an old smoother and block plane that were my grandfathers (both also in the queue for some cleanup). Looking forward to the point when I can break them out and get to work on something though! Hanging out here in central oklahoma, originally from Stillwater though. A particular group associated with the Joplin meet? Would certainly be worthwhile I imagine if I could swing it! Not in school this semester so I certainly have a good deal more freedom and free time!


----------



## ksSlim

MidwestTCA/SouthwestTCA.

Meet was founded in 1988 as the "Ground Hogs Day" Meet 'n Greet.

Exit 8 off I-44, (Joplin area) go south, next to Saginaw post office.
Motels and eats North of I-44 in the area.

Toss me an email addy and I'll send you a flyer.


----------



## lateralus819

Finally got a chance to finish all these. Sit back and enjoy.









A Stanley bedrock 608, diamond edge #8, Stanley #7, and a Stanley #6.









Loads of parts to keep track of. Took a few hours to clean up.



























#6. This thing is awesome. Works just as good as my other. I'm kind of partial to #6 sizes.




























Bedrock 608 I think a type 3


----------



## lateralus819

Finally a diamond edge #8.




























Did someone say heft and hubris??



















DonW made 3 totes for me, I broke the tote for the #7. That's why it isn't pictured yet.


----------



## Slyy

Lateralus - great job dude!!! Those look fantastic!!! I bet your stoked to see those huge hunks of iron sitting on your bench. Always great to keep those old men working wrong and hard with a new shot at life! Keep up the good work brother!


----------



## CL810

+ What Slyy said.


----------



## Handtooler

My, my you've really don yourself proud! Those are MAGNIFICANT! All three are as good as or better, than they were originally back before this man's time. Hope ya got room for 'em n your stable.


----------



## DonBroussard

@lateral-Just WOW! Those are beautiful! Is that a Stanley No. 11 disassembled on the bench? The handle and the body look familiar.


----------



## lateralus819

Yes that's a #12 actually. Will post when I get the blade.

Here's the #7.





































Picked this up from a buddy at work. It was his grandfather's. He told me his grandad used to make all kinds of cool stuff for them as kids. He's now passed. I really didn't want to buy it, I hoped he'd keep it. I may give it to him.

If it's not evident, this poor guy was in a basement that flooded. Tote was broke, know has a crank. It cleaned up really well.


----------



## lateralus819

For ********************s and giggles here's a group shot minus the 7.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Handsome bunch


----------



## Slyy

Sweet looking family shot there lateralus!!! My own is quite a few members shy of yours, but coming along. You did a great job with that #7, I'd feel the same as you taking that knowing the story. Maybe the friend will find himself in a spot where he might be able to accept that back as a wonderful tribute to the man that made all that "cool stuff"!!!


----------



## lateralus819

Yeah, I'm a little hesitant though. He is a carpenter himself, but the only reason he sold it was he needed money. Hes a great kid, has had drug problems in the past. I mean, for someone to sell their grandfathers tool for $45, MUST be hard up for something.


----------



## lateralus819

So this is what addiction is. I've been woodworking for just under 2 years, and have been using planes for maybe 1-1.5 years. I already have over 20 planes. Is there help? 

I think my next one will be a 212. I scored the 4 1/2 off DonW yesterday, and the 66 beader.


----------



## Slyy

Unfortunatley makes you wonder I guess huh? At the same time, I'm sure it's better off in your hands than who knows where else and for what reasons…..

And if the addiction is a problem you'll have to face the fact that LJ's is one big support group! The only real wood working experience I have was watching my grandfather as a kid 20 years ago! I haven't done a dang thing other than inherit some of his and my fathers tools and started collecting some of my own (all with the intent of using much sooner than later grant you). But I've been doing it for less than 2 months and already have 7 planes and 7 hand saws. Addiction confirmed: we've all got problems my friend!!!!


----------



## lateralus819

Im not sure what it is, but to take a plane that someone would otherwise throw out, and make it usable again is an amazing feeling. Not to mention though, old hand tools are a joy to look at and use.

I will admit, i think I'll have to hold off on any more restores for a while, these take a long time. 10 hours in the shop today to get these fixed up, and they're still not done. I've to find a blade for the diamond edge #8. I kept wondering why i couldn't get the iron to protrude, turns out the blade is warped to hell and back.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Envious of you Eastern U.S. people, after visiting family over Christmas break I hit a bunch of antique shops and there were old planes out the yin yang. Not bad prices, either. Not great but not bad. If I'd had the time to hunt for that stuff properly there, I could have come up with a collection much faster than I have here in Texas. Oh well.

lateralus - great collection. I agree, bringing old planes back to life is something else. I've got some blades to sharpen and one new (old) plane to fix up but it's been so insanely cold I haven't been able to do it.


----------



## Slyy

Absolutely agree Lateralus: taking what might be seen as trash to some and making them usable again (as they were always intended to be) is an absolutely enjoyable experience!

Here's the woodworking/carpentry I've been doing all day (well helping anyways)









Not sure what good a No. 4 would be, not really sure if I'd wanna try…...


----------



## Slyy

I have to throw in here too, that my biggest handicap right now is sharpening. The biggest aspect of that is these old beat up planes: they're all beat to hell, blade usually as well.

I think it's one thing to touch up a dull blade, something else entirely to have to reform the cutting edge almost from starch. Some I have are badly chipped, some were just plain sharpened at some odd skewed angle.
Certainly my current sharpening supplies are woefully underprepared to handle remaking an edge. I need to get on that! Think my first order of business is a honing guide!


----------



## chrisstef

Hey Slyy, looking at that xray I think your uterus is in the wrong spot. Might wanna get that checked out bro.


----------



## Slyy

Stef - that's what the zipper's for: easy access, just zip it open, drop the midol in and carry on!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Sly- Is it me, or can we totally see a wiener in that xray….lol
Vintage irons are a pain in the butt. I decided I either needed a power sharpening system to flatten the backs and such….or buy new irons. I own a lot of Hocks.

Lateralus- I was reminded today of how time consuming restores can be. Labor of love. Btw, I have an extra Millers Falls no 8 iron if that would work. Just shoot me a pm if you want it you can have it.

Travis- ya, I burnt out on rust hunting in the midwest. Barren wasteland.


----------



## Airframer

I always suspected Red was a gazer ;-) Why you looking so close bro?!


----------



## Slyy

Red - we medical folks like to use big words for things, the proper word is not "wiener", it's schlong. Also acceptable is "captain winky".

AF - some people are just more observant I suppose, red's got the eyes for it seems.

Yeah I gotta figure out how I want to approach the irons, new obviously is a lot easier, but I'd still really like to use the originals where possible. Guess I need to grease the elbow, grab some more sharpening supplies and get after it!
And incidentally (not that ya wouldn't know anything about it) but here's shavings from the newly restored MF 18c.








This is just sandpaper sharp to 500 grit, but you can clearly see how the blade can't take full width shavings. Even with the greatest combination of lateral adjuster and canting the blade to favor the short side, the edge is still too tapered to one side to fix the problem. I'd eyeball it at the right side out 2-3 mm longer from the left.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, one po' boy method is just to get some PSA 80 grit and go to town on the backs and bevels.


----------



## chrisstef

AF - calling Red a gazer absolutely made my morning. Thank you. Lol.


----------



## Slyy

Red - the Veritas guide is the very one of been eyeing. Just need to commit and hit the "add to cart" button!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

It's the best one I know of. The micro-bevel feature is sweet. You just missed LV free shipping. But I'll further enable. You can get it shipped free along with quality stones here.

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Veritas-Mk-II-Honing-Guide-P257C17.aspx

No affiliation with the place. I just like their store.


----------



## Slyy

Very place I was looking, saw that their DMT stones were on sale as well!

Get outa my head Red!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

hehehe….Don't know if you bored yourself with my sharpening blog. I'm big on oil stones. I think India stones in particular are an excellent value.

Not sure I'd push the cambered roller for the MKII. I barely use it anymore.


----------



## Slyy

Checked out some of the blog, lots of stuff to follow on here. I have a few small India stones currently, but these are all pocket knife sized. I can get a good edge on a knife, suppose those skis would transfer, more or less, to plane irons.


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks for posting that Red. I think i may look into oil stones. I HATE water stones, they dish so bad. half the time i forget to flatten them.

Whats the cost minus the veritas honing jig?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

+1 one hating water stones. Let's see, pricing my setup

$80 for 8×3 norton hard arkansas stone. Looks like that website has some in wooden box cheaper….but out of stock. 
$18 for 8×3 med. india stone
$53 for 8×3 dmt extra course diamond plate. You can save a little if you don't get the dmt brand. I use this to flatten backs, take out a big chip, and not so much to flatten….but to take the "haze" off the oil stones. A couple swipes and it will expose new abrasives on the india or arkansas stone.

So, around $150…..but your done buying. You may wear out that diamond plate, but not the other stones in your lifetime. Strop are cheap to make yourself. Flexcut gold compound $8. Wd40 gallon $15.


----------



## Slyy

Yeah for me Red, the oil stones really appeal. I already have some practical experience with them (the knife thing) and they seem much easier to use/upkeep.

If there's one thing my astronomy hobby has taught me (especially lugging telescope equipment out to remote locations) is that the equipment you USE is the best. The worse thing is to have it and be so annoyed that you never want to use it. Water stones seem to call into this category: they may work great but, (like lateralus mentioned) are you going to remember or want to do all the flattening and other upkeep that goes with them?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I hear ya. The only waterstones I would consider trying now is the ones that only require a spritz like the shapton ceramics or these:
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/blade-sharpening/ohishi-waterstones/

But I've got such a good system down with these oil stones that I doubt I'll ever change. I admit you can't get the polish with an arkansas stone that you can with an 8000 grit waterstone. But that's what the loaded strop is for

Here's an interesting video to make one of those cheapy honing guides work better. 




I doubt I'll try it. I hate mine.


----------



## Slyy

Picked this up from a friend who couldn't remember where from or why he had it. He thought it came from an antique store, that'd explain the shellac or poly that the whole thing was slathered in, iron, chip breaker, everything was covered.
There was a good deal of rust UNDER the slather as well.
Some before:

















You can see it also looks as if there is a burn marking taking up the middle 1/3 or so of the left side. The char/color was in deep so that pretty much stayed.

























Wood planes are a different beast than the irons. I need to figure out to use it or just let it sit looking pretty.
Thanks for looking!


----------



## planepassion

Jake that cleaned up nicely. I've always liked the look of the Stanley liberty bell planes. And the burn mark adds some cool character. Wonder what the story is behind that? Perhaps the plane survived a shop fire…or was set too close to the hide-glue pot. Nice restore.


----------



## TerryDowning

Red

Thanks for posting this link
"Here's an interesting video to make one of those cheapy honing guides work better. 




I doubt I'll try it. I hate mine."

The Cheapy honing guide that you hate is the only one I have and I never thought doing any fettling on that.

It does not hold all of my chisels correctly and it's use on smaller plane blades was always suspect.
Now I have an idea here to start correcting those deficiencies (without spending more money)


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Sly- I should clarify from yesterday. I use a hard translucent Arkansas stone. Looks like the one that website offers for cheaper is not translucent, which apparently isn't the same quality.

I got my replacement no 8 base painted yesterday. On my first restore, I got most of my info from rexmill.com. That guy recommends laying the paint down real thick. The risk with this is that the paint may shrink a bit and/or the sheen will be off. The solution is to wait a week and add an addition topcoat or two. I think that's what I'll do again. I don't do as nice as restores as some of you guys, but I think I do a pretty good job on the paint.

A K5 I was proud of:
















-
Later I took the paint off the top edge of the sides when I realized stanley didn't put japanning on those.


----------



## grfrazee

That's a purty K5 Red. I've got a K5-1/2 that needs similar treatment.

Are the knob/tote beech or rosewood? Or something else?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Beech or some other light wood. I used dark walnut danish for the color.


----------



## Slyy

Brad - thanks, certainly a story in there somewhere about how it found that scorch. I kinda dig the hide glue pot idea!

Red - nice work on that K5!! I'll look around for the translucent stone, shouldn't be too hard to find a good deal!!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Thanks man. I did that K5 earlier in the year and sold it to a fellow LJ. I was just trying to show a good example of what it looks like when you get that engine enamel on real thick. Hope the replacement for my no 8 that cracked turns out as well.

Mostly just rambling about the crap I've learned. Like usual.


----------



## ColonelTravis

I went with rexmill's great site and noticed yesterday I ended up with a slight problem - paint has been chipping off. Not a lot, but I did 4 coats, waiting about 15 minutes between each. I just went to his site and noticed that he said he waited 15 minutes after a very light first coat, then waited 25 minutes for the remaining ones. Dumb me didn't do that. I wonder if I sprayed too much at first and then followed up too soon?

Been a couple months since I finished my collection so it's safe to retouch but has anyone had a problem with this engine paint chipping?


----------



## DKV

I've never shown a restoration because I've never done one. It sure is fun looking though. The before and afters are simply amazing.


----------



## Slyy

DKV - Careful, it's one dang slippery slope!!! And it doesn't just look like fun, it's real fun!

Red - that first SW No 5 I did, kinda started feeling a little unsatisfied with the engine enamel results, I figured out the solution was like you said: for a better result, more really does help match up the new with the old.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Travis- I haven't had problems with chipping yet. That enamel is interesting to work with. The rexmill dude does a pretty good job of explaining it. My can says re-coat within an hour…or after 24 hours. But like the dude on rexmills states, 24 hours is NOT long enough. It will shrink and crack for some reason. I made that mistake once and only once. Now I just wait a week, get another nice thick coat or two, and it looks pretty good.

Also, I use this grease and wax remover on the stripped castings to ensure adhesion of the paint:










However, don't spray that stuff on dried paint, it will remove it. Made that mistake too.

Lastly, if you ever jack up a paint job, that jell type stripper removes the spray paint very well. Not that I would know.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Dang prep spray, didn't use that stuff. Figured electrolysis would be a good grease killer, maybe not. I remember his 24 hour warning, didn't he say wait a week? I didn't mess that part up whatever it was. When it warms up I´ll put another coat or two on the chipped ones, the paint coming off is very slight. Maybe I accidentally hit them against something because it's not all my planes.


----------



## Airframer

I will usually give it a good wipe down with Naphtha then a light base prime of self etching primer. That usually takes care of any rust spots I may have missed and gives a good adhesion to the paint. I have also considered trying one of those rust converter primers.


----------



## CL810

Regarding the jell type paint strippers: I used the environmental friendly stuff last summer on a plane and it performed very well.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Just hit me what may have been the culprit - flash rusting after electrolysis. I remember getting frustrated with getting rid of that stuff after taking it out of the bucket. Bet I didn't do a thorough enough job.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Travis- Ya, the can says 24 hours….not enough. Rexmill guy advises a week…..and that's a good idea. If you haven't waited long enough, you'll know pretty quick, the new coats will shrink and crack before they even dry.

Flash rust….That might have been it. I spray em down with wd40 right after the rust bath. Then surface prep right before painting.

If there's a bright side, it's that with a stripper, the enamel is way easier to get off than japanning.


----------



## JayT

Shameless self-promotiion: I have had zero issues with my homemade japanning after more than a year. Even after baking, it continued to cure for several months and is now much harder and tougher than paint. My most used plane, a Bedrock 606, doesn't have a single chip, yet.


----------



## ColonelTravis

That's awesome JayT. I considered that when I first thought about restoration and read your great series, but I'm a lazy moron.


----------



## CL810

Thanks for that "shameless self-promotion!" I had missed that blog. Now favorited.


----------



## Slyy

JayT - read that blog a while ago, your process is pretty dang impressive. Ultimately the result is everything, right? I think at some point in the future, don't know when though, I am gonna give your process a very serious try. Just yet another wonderful resource of information to cull good practice from, whether you actually choose to do it that way or not!

Incidentally, anyone have any good resources on Stanley measurement tools? Had been eyeing a Stanley no 13 carpenters level and grabbed it a few days ago for $4. Interested in what it may have looked like new and what ideas for finish might have been. May not have as much practical use as a plane does, but sure would look pretty in the garage.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, I missed Jay's blog the first time around too. Good stuff.


----------



## RB61

This 605 1/2 (type 7 I think) went through 40 years of work and two big floods. Tote was broken in half


----------



## theoldfart

Ray, not so much a save as a resurrection! Well done.


----------



## Handtooler

Ray, Very nice restoration, press-on. Those fine furniture pieces are just over the hill from you. Ascend and attack!


----------



## Slyy

Ray, strong work buddy!! You did a fantastic job on the restore!


----------



## CL810

Ray that is simply masterful!


----------



## donwilwol

Sweet 605 1/2.


----------



## lateralus819

Finally received the hock blade for my number 12. Love their blades



















Picked this up from don a while ago. Works great. The before should be up with a previous post. As you can see the previous owner scribed his initial in the knob. Figured id leave it for character.


----------



## chrisstef

What do you guys use to clean wood handles and the like? I just brought home a big pile of rusties and id like to clean the grime off some wood screwdriver handles. Here's the load. Lil more info on the shop thread.


----------



## Airframer

You could try a green scrubby (scotch brite pad) and BLO cut with MS or Murphys. Or sand it if you aren't worried about maintaining "patina".


----------



## chrisstef

Cut blo it is. Dont think theres any murphys in the house. Thanks Eric.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Sometimes a little simple green or a degreaser like 409 is in order Stef.

Handsome scraper there lateralus.


----------



## chrisstef

I covet the hell out of that 12.


----------



## lateralus819

I've wanted one for a while stef. When I found out don had this at a great price I hurried over to his place. Don't quite understand how to correctly usr it yet but I'll learn it.


----------



## chrisstef

Yea i need some serious degreasing strength. When mechanics get woodworking tools its rarely pretty.


----------



## donwilwol

I just picked up a can of Gunk to try on the really dirty jobs.


----------



## Timbo

No name spokshave,


























sharpened the blade, cleaned then sand, sand, sand up to 1500g then polished with autosol.


----------



## donwilwol

wow Tim, that looks sharp (pun intended)


----------



## CL810

Beautiful Tim


----------



## Slyy

Stef - if I'm not concerned about the original finish (which on most of the old rusties needs to go anyways) I typically use OOOO steel wool and denatured alcohol to get the grime and paint flakes and whatever is left of the old finish. The OOOO steel wool also has the benefit of burnishing and smoothing the old beat up wood without the need to sand as much, sometimes allowing me to avoid sanding altogether. The DA also seems the best thing to get in deep to pull out any oil and grime soaked into the wood. 
I'll follow this up with a clean rag generously soaked in DA to wipe up all the grime left over from the steel wool scrub. This is then followed up by a good wiping down with a rag soaked in mineral spirits (usually use the odorless variety). Then just follow with whatever finish regime I feel is appropriate for that particular piece.
Also, that's a ridiculous sweet haul there! Especially digging the auger bits (having trouble finding any around me).

Lateralus - great work on the scrapper one of any kind, let alone a No 12, is high on my list of what I need to find!

Tim - that's looking dang good, impressed with the transformation!


----------



## Tim457

Stef, I'm pretty sold on the mendotta's plane polish that Super Dave posted a video about on LJ's a while back. Paste Wax, Murphy's Oil Soap, and BLO. It's relatively mild and works if you want to keep the patina. Murphy's is pretty good stuff worth having.

Don is Gunk the stuff with abrasive in it? I have some of that type and I bet it would work great, with the citrus degreaser and all, but I wish I could find some that didn't have the abrasive. For the real tough cases though it should work great.

Tim, there have been a lot of impressive restores on here, but that has got to be one of the most impressive ones. The polish you got is awesome.

Love this thread with old tools getting saved.


----------



## chrisstef

Slyy / Tim - thanks fellas. I havent made heads or tails of the auger bits yet but i do have an adjustable one soaking. Theres some perfect handle screwdrivers, wood handled pipe wrenches, yankee screwdrivers , etc buried in there. They need some lovin and a good cleanin. Dirty girls.

Edit - other Tim. Whoa. Sexy.


----------



## DonBroussard

@lat-Another job well done! I have a No. 11, similar to the No. 12. Yours came out great. I did the same thing you did with the handle-very little rehab so as to save its history.

@Stef-Looks like a nice haul. I hope you buy Evaporust by the barrel. Looks like you got a bunch of planes, drill bits and a bunch of other interesting things. What's in the little leather case on top of the hand saw?

@Tim-Nice spit shine on the scraper. Looks like it just came off the shelf at the generic scraper store.


----------



## Airframer

Have you tried Goof Off? It's just Citrus oil degreaser. Might be worth trying.


----------



## chrisstef

Good eye Don. Its a set of dividers, a compass and some other dainty little devices. Leather case marked K&E i think.


----------



## terryR

Tim, that spokeshave came out so perfect, it looks 'Andified'! Awesome! 

Stef, great haul, buddy! Looks like a week's worth of good clean fun! +1 to the Murphy's Oil Soap thinned with MS. I usually save the wax for a later application. The previous owner's of this old house left us a bottle of Murphy's, and I've been using it for 9 years!

I also like the citrus stuff for de-greasing…I use bicycle chain lube and cleaner, just beacuse it's left over from my mtn biking days…smells better than WD-40, too. LOL


----------



## DaddyZ

Nice Spoke there Tim !!!


----------



## ksSlim

Just heard about this stripper product. "D-Zolve 1012" 
Worth a look. http://solventkleene.com/Dzolve1012.htm


----------



## bandit571

Test









all but one of my jacks









after a little clean up.









the Sargent #414c. The others? A Four square Junior jack, a Corsair C-5 cambered jack, an Ohio Tool Co. #05c. and a FrankenBailey #5. The Four square does have a SW iron in it, too.


----------



## Slyy

Cool little lineup there Bandit!


----------



## lateralus819

Scored a NICE type 10 stanley 4 1/2 on ebay earlier in the week for $60. In great shape, looks like its got %100 japanning (unless its been repainted, is there a way to tell?). Will clean it up and post pics tomorrow. I just bought a 4 1/2 from DonW last week and now i find this one lol! Oh well. It's an addiction.


----------



## Airframer

unless its been repainted, is there a way to tell?

Find an inconspicuous spot (like under the frog) and use a Q-Tip dipped in lacquer thinner and see if it rubs off easily. Real Japanning won't come off very easily but paint will.

Now at some point Stanley DID start painting their planes instead of Japanning but those are later models so it all depends on the age.


----------



## lateralus819

Okay, will try. The knobs are wore, which makes me think its original. Unless whoever did it, wanted to leave them as is.


----------



## waho6o9

Amazing work Tim, congratulations on a fine restore.


----------



## have24

Hey guys here is a restore I did of a Bedrock 607 that I came across the other week at an antique store. I have a blog typed up about the process I went through but it hasn't been posted yet.


----------



## Handtooler

Much improvement on the lady! That's a mighty fine tool.


----------



## Slyy

Bryson - awesome restore and excellent shavings there friend! Keep up the great work!!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nice Bryson. Those bedrocks are easy on the eyes.


----------



## lateralus819

Agree. My #8 bedrock is very cool. nice job!


----------



## have24

I know finding that Bedrock may have been a bad thing. I think its going to single handedly fuel my obsession with hand planes.


----------



## JayT

Don't listen to those guys! Bedrocks are crap, you should send it to me for safe disposal.


----------



## Slyy

While not strictly woodworking related, my uncle gave me a tool box once owned by my grandfather, it was a rusty rusty mess inside. Hiding in there though (missing a few pieces however) was what my uncle believed to be the very first set of tools my grandfather ever purchased. He told me that within the first few days in 1945 of his return home from the European theater (ball turret gunner B-17, the "Renovation") he married my grandmother, bought a house, and then bought these two sets of circle H craftsman wrenches, 3/8 and 1/2 drive sets:









No befores, but just took some WD40 and a fine wire wheel to the sockets. Both wrenches were dirty but had a nice patina so I just lightly cleaned them up. The 3/8 set is missing quite a few pieces, though the 1/2" is almost all there. Would like to find parts and complete the set someday. I have a set of Kobalt (lowes) socket wrenches, these 70 year old girls are my go-to's now!


----------



## lateralus819

Just picked these up today for $20. Looked like they have never been used. I was stoked, been looking for an old stanley rule in good shape, and this fit the bill. The gauge is a sahoco hardware co.























































Hard to believe that square is almost 100 years old and doesn't look over a day old.


----------



## Handtooler

Nice spend! You'll get a great deal of pleasure in using them for your layout work.


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks I'm happy! Cant even buy a new square thats decent for that price. Not to mention one that looks incredibly sexy.


----------



## Slyy

Those look great lateralus, two tools that are on high on my list as well!


----------



## lateralus819

I just noticed a like BRAND NEW stanley 6" on ebay. Kind of want it lol.


----------



## Slyy

Finally got a long jointer up and working! This one seems to be the equivalent of the Stanley no 7: it's 22" long with a nice wide blade, the blade iron was actually in golf shape, so it sharpened up well. Can't wait to get a chance to use it for something! Not sure who made this one, only marking I can find is the blade iron with a "Diamond Edge" Sharpleigh tools logo and trademark, other than that: nada!

















Frog base









De-Rustied!


----------



## dbray45

Really nice Jake!


----------



## donwilwol

Nice Jake. My guess would be it was made by Ohio tools. A shot of the lat with the blade removed would confirm because Sargent made a few to I believe.


----------



## Slyy

Don -

















And now that it's together and I've messed around with it a bit, it seems the lateral adjustment lever is gonna have a hard time clearing the tote, anyone have a suggestion here?


----------



## Airframer

See the slight bend at the top of the lever? Straighten that out and it will clear without a problem.


----------



## Slyy

Eric - smarter man than I


----------



## donwilwol

Still think its an Ohio Tools. Definitely not a Sargent. I agree with straightening the lat. I've learned to snap a vice grip lightly over the pin so when you straighten the lat you don't pull up and pull it off the pin. Pay particular attention to the word "lightly".


----------



## lateralus819

Is that bend not normal? My DE has the same bend.


----------



## donwilwol

The bend is normal but its supposed to be straight.


----------



## Slyy

Okay, trying something totally new: carving. I may make this my first blog post. Trying to make some mahogany tote for a relatively new maroon made in England Stanley No 4 that has atrocious black plastic handles!! Apologies for the "staged" pic but just have to give you the full picture.


----------



## terryR

Jake, you can also shorten the tote a bit to make room for the lateral adjuster…I'm scared of messing with lat adj's now! 

Nice work on the new tote. I just switched iPads, and lost some photos I'd love to share, but you want to look out for a transitional plane now. Dis-assemble, then screw the steel housing onto a 2×4, that will let you mount your 'in progress' tote to the steel and rasp with all your might!

The idea is stolen from DonW, but I cannot find a photo in all His 200 blogs…LOL!

Don, do ya have a photo handy?


----------



## Slyy

Terry - that stable rasping base idea sounds great! I'll certainly be on the look out, especially considering I've for a lot of rasping left to do on that guy.


----------



## donwilwol

Hey Terry, I'm so far behind! Work has been insane. No shop time and even LJ time has been extremely limited. I think the pictures your looking for are here. http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2012/10/12/making-a-bench-plane-tote/

Doesn't necessarily need to be a transitional, any broken unusable base would do.


----------



## terryR

Ah, thanks, Don. I couldn't find mine anywhere in the shop yesterday for a photo. 

I screwed my transitional frame to a 2×4 so it could be clamped (or even screwed!) to the work table. I noticed my tranny frame had a crack, so tried to support it. Dunno why? If it breaks in 1/2 I'll have 2 jigs instead of one! LOL


----------



## lateralus819

Picked up another 4 1/2 off ebay for $60 shipped. Think i did okay? I wasn't going to refinish it cause it looked in good enough shape to just clean it up a little. Turns out a previous owner had tried, and did a crappy job. It also has had a tote repair which is actually a decent job. The blade is pretty wore out, i think i'll look into a hock blade for it.


----------



## donwilwol

A pair of 4 1\2s mow. Sweet!


----------



## Slyy

Nice pick there Lat, your stable's getting bigger everyday!


----------



## lateralus819

Yep its pretty sweet! I think its a type 10. I also picked up a mint #5 for 35 bucks. Still has the decal on the handle, sweetheart blade as well. I could actually take shavings straight from the shelf lol.


----------



## lateralus819

It fits in nicely. I've got roughly 30 now i think lol. Sigh…It hasn't even been a year yet. Oh well, they sure are gorgeous to look at.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Well you dirty dog. That plane till looks familiar. I take it as a compliment;-)

30 in the first year? Not too bad. My "condition" was pretty similar.


----------



## donwilwol

A type 10 4 1\2? We may need to make a trade! Hell, you don't need 2 

especially if its a type 10 cutter.


----------



## lateralus819

Not as nice as yours Red, but i do thank you for the help! My next plane is a damn shoulder/rabbet. I have no means of cleaning up tenons and it just frustrated the hell out of me.


----------



## lateralus819

Yeah its the original cutter, but its getting kind of short, still has life, just not that long.


----------



## Slyy

Lat - if my "first two months" is any indicator, this is gonna get ridiculous for me as well! Not to 30 yet, but seems I'm making a to at it all the same!!! You guys are gonna make my wife hate me (though secretly she probably looks forward to me leaving her alone while I'm in the "shop").


----------



## lateralus819

My wife is cool with it. She knows i typically only buy ones i need. Sometimes…unless they're a good deal lol. I didn't "need" this 2nd 4 1/2, but at $60 shipped, it was a good deal. They're typically over $100.

I've actually have 3 i need to get rid of. Going to give two of them away i think.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Lat- maybe a swappy with Don for a rabbet plane is in order. Back in the dark ages I trimmed tenons with a sanding block. Ugh.

I keep lying to myself by saying I'm done restoring planes. Couple weeks ago the based of one of my no8s (t13) cracked near the mouth. After I used a box of kleenex, I realized I had a t14 no 8 base in my boneyard that WayneC and I robbed parts off. So I restored the base, the rest of the parts of from the t13 no 8 LukieB restored for me. May she rest in peace. 
Before:









After:

























-
I still prefer a fine wire wheel on the sides etc. I like patina it leaves. Anyway.


----------



## Handtooler

"Fine wire wheel" 
Just how fine is fine? and a cylindrical or conical one in the drill press or a wheel type on a grinder? I wanna learn?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Russel, with the fine wire wheel, all I can tell you is that the grinder wheels come specified as fine, medium, etc. I have an 8" fine. I have a 3m deburring wheel as well, but that's more for the shiny look.

Now, for stripping the japanning, I don't have a sandblasting setup. My grinder comes to a halt with any pressure. So, I like to put the base in a vise and go at it with these buggers(below) chucked in a powerful drill. Hope it helps.


----------



## lateralus819

Good idea on those red, usually i have my stuff blasted at work, but since I'm laid off, i had to try my in laws Horrible freight blaster. It worked okay, left a little cleanup, but not bad.


----------



## Slyy

Lat, Red - I like those brass tools on my hand drill as well. 6" grinder for me, but same thing, it doesn't like too much work. Now I love a nice shiny thing, but I'm pretty much in your camp Red: make it clean but leave some of that character she's earned over the last 50-100 years!


----------



## lateralus819

Talk about patina…I've aquired a NICE #5 SW. Has a nice look to it, I'm going to just clean the dirt and dust off and put it on the shelf. I don't usually use #5, but i don't have a stanley #5. Thats why i bought it. Good reason right?

What do you use to clean your brass red? I picked up some grinder pads today, with rouge, not much difference.

Typically i use a car polish and it works wonders. The problem most of the time is figureing out a way to chuck the adjustment knob.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nothin wrong with putting a minty sweetheart no 5 on a shelf. Look under my TV (Xmas pic). You can always find another no5 for a user. They're common as can be. 








-
Brass….I use a 3m deburring wheel, or Brasso if need be.


----------



## Slyy

Brass for me: Brasso and fine steel or medium brass brush.


----------



## donwilwol

Are we talking about putting a few on a shelf?

http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/39205


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## lateralus819

Not quite like that Don! But that is awesome!

Curious, whats your most valuable plane?


----------



## Slyy

a few on a shelf

Dear lord, I'd hate to see what you'd call "a lot" Don!!
Picked up another $3 D-8 thumbhole at the swap meet today! Covered in what I "think" is concrete dust and missing the lower horn. Should be fun!!


----------



## donwilwol

Curious, whats your most valuable plane?

I don't really know, but the rarest I have is probably the type 1 Sargent 409.


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## Slyy

Well it's not much to look at, but I consider this to be my first "official" wood working project. From a square block of wood to a finished project, I have a new handle for my stanley No 4. Without a lathe, still gotta figure out how I'm gonna make the front knob, but I'm sure I'll figure something out. Mahogany is what I've got, so that's what she's from, shaped a bit different than the plastic original to be a more comfortable hold:


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## Bundoman

I am new to the site and really am enjoying this topic. I hope to add a few projects in the near future. Nice work all!


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## Handtooler

Commendable! And, Welcome to this wonderful community. Question though for all restoration buddies. As many totes you see either broken or having been repaired, why didn't/do not they construct them with the grain running vertical so that the forces are against the long grain?


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## donwilwol

Welcome Bundoman.

Russell, running the grain the other way would help the splits from the center, and make it worse for the tip and bottom sections.

The primary reason for the breaks is the inconsistency in the angle of the threads. It adds stress. The design is meant to reduce stress because as you put pressure on the tote, the bolt tightens to prevent it from breaking. When the angle of the bolt doesn't match the tote, the design doesn't work. .

That's why many of the bolts are bent. They are bent to match the angle. Many were bent from the factory.


----------



## Handtooler

Don, Thanks for the reply. I knew there must be a reason, but didn't understand.


----------



## terryR

Looks nice, Jake! Mail me a 2" thick piece of your Mahogany, and I'll turn you a knob for free. I already have some African Mahogany that may match? PM me…

Re: grain direction in the tote, I usually like to tilt the grain somewhat as it appears Jake has done, so it follows the back tip of the tote. Not sure if that is any stronger??? I'm still convinced some were cut off purposely so all four fingers could grab the lil thing! LOL. That's how my power tool only buddy holds his grandpa's planes when he pretends to use them….


----------



## donwilwol

when he pretends to use them….

That made me chuckle. I used to be in that crowd!


----------



## lateralus819

I remember a few Years ago grabbing a co workers block plane and telling a guy to show me how to use it..ahh good times.


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## Bundoman

I spent some time in my photobucket this morning to get some photo resizing done so here are a few photos of some of my refurb projects of the past year. Like many folks that restore planes, I try to use the less is more appraoch and try to preserve the old patination that is present where possible.

The first plane here is a later type Stanley 10 1/2 that I picked up at the antique mall this fall on a chance stop. I have wanted to add one of these to my collection and this one was too good to pass up, both for condition and price. I was able to avoid electrolysis with this plane and only had to scrub with mineral spirits, polish with steel wool, light sand some parts, and wax this plane to get rid of light rust and crust. I did not have it sharpened at picture time so do not have a curl shot for this plane.



















The next plane was a "train wreck" round sided Bedrock 605. It was worth the gamble because the wood and lever cap were good. I was not sure if it would clean up as tht top side of the sole was badly pitted as though the plane had spent time under ground or water. It appeared that the prior owner had brushed the accessible parts of the plane clean enough to spray with clear coat and had replaced the Rosewood handles with good ones. The pictures do not really tell the whole story on condition because the clearcoat masked some of the rust. I had to bag the plane with paint stripper to get rid of the clearcoat and then the pplane spent a day in the electrolysis tank for the rust. At the end of the tank time, I was finally able to get the frog screws out. Once dis-assembled, it got a little better and I believe that it turned out pretty good for what it was. I did need to replace the blade and chip breaker as they were too far gone and this plane got a new coat of black paint as the old japanning was far gone.

The Bedrock is the plane in the bottom row on the far right.























































Although the not so rough planes do clean up into very nice users, I do enjoy the satisfaction of bringing the truly rough ones back to life as well. All indications were that it was close to over for this plane by looking at it. It has some slight pitting on the sides that are part of its past so it isn't the prettiest plane that I have done. Surprisingly, the sole is not very pitted and this plane will be a user once again.

I have a 410 Type 2 Sargent and some other projects that I will try to post soon.


----------



## Slyy

Bund - excellent work! That full cut No 10 1/2 looks dang sexy! Great work on both if those, especially with the amount of pitting on that Bedrock!

A note on the tote (Stop rhyming and I mean it, anybody want a peanut), I obviously wanted to follow the grain of the original (plus makes sense to have the grain mostly perpendicular to the long axis of the tote) though the grain isn't quite what it seems, this was made from two laminated pieces and I tried to match the grain to the greatest extent possible. The grain is slightly out of perpendicular on the bottom/forward portion of the tote, but I figured it'd be well reinforced here by the fact it makes direct contact with the bed, while I did my best to insure that the grain was most strongly oriented on the upper horn, since this would have to rely entirely on grain strength. Hopefully a litlle BLO and danish oil finish will help it all hold up overtime, guess we'll see!
First time using and finishing this mahogany, must say it has an almost tigers eye like iridescence to it, quite striking!


----------



## donwilwol

Bundo, that's some nice work, but I'll be on the edge of my seat for a type 2 #410. They are a bit hard to find.


----------



## Bundoman

O.K. Don… I will post it now as your comments have me curious as to how unusual this plane actually is. I seldom bring home much that is not Stanley and do not know much about the Sargent line but have brought home 2 this year. One is a Stanley #5 equivalent and the number escapes me right now. The other is a 410 and I believe it to be type 2 by things that I have seen on the internet. I have not found a lot of information though. I will say that the jappanning is a little dicey on this one but I left it until someone can tell me if this is a collector or a user plane. I may have done too much already in cleaning the rust and fixing the tote. This plane came home in the group of 10 planes I bought at the antique mall in November. I had a good day there that day and in the subsequent week and there was a large flush of planes hitting the booths. I am told that there was a tool collector that died and they had auction of his things. I missed the listing. As a result however, I currently have a more to refurb than I ever planned on. As an aside, I also have an Ohio 04 1/2 that has been with me for over 15 years from my pre-kids rust hunting days. Interested in any info on both of these but have no pics of the Ohio Tool plane right now. Anyway…Here is the Sargent 410

Here the plane is as I purchased it. Not that pretty but I liked the wide body, and with the horseshoe lateral adjuster,it joined my purchase pile.


















In rooting around the internet, I am convinced that this is the original iron. Cool oval logo!!!








Not the best picture overall but this shows what is left of the japanning very well so I included it. Tote horn still needs help at this point.








Front view of how it looks now.









Side view of the plane as it is now. I re-glued the broken tote as the joint still fit well. I then added a block of Walnut to the top to replace the chipped horn. I do not have any rosewood and this was about as close as I could come to it. A small occlusion showed up in the Walnut after I started shaping. I guess it adds some character. I used 2 part epoxy for the repairs. This plane cleaned up pleasingly well. I do not have the lever cap off in the pictures but from what I could read on the internet to compare, it appears that the cap is a match to the type 2 casting numbers as I recall. I looked at this a few months back and do not remember what was all on the cap.









The Ohio Tool Plane is in this row fourth over from the left. Not a great picture but I realized that I got this one the other night while getting some quick pictures of planes I need to work on. This plane thing may indeed be a problem for me! .










Should I consider not using this Sargent? I have not sharpened the blade which is in good condition. What can anyone tell me about it? Any information would be appreciated.


----------



## donwilwol

The #410 was made from 1901-1947. To compare that to a #409 that was made from 1887 to 1950. Its not extremely valuable, about as much as a Stanley 4 1/2, but a lot harder to find.

Yours is definitely a type 2. I've got the same plane, but mine has the earlier iron.










In the condition yours is in, I don't believe restoring it would hurt its value. Using it doesn't hurt it either, but of course dropping it on a concrete floor and busting it in half will have quit an effect.

As for the Ohio Tools, they are harder to determine age. I don't have a 04 1/2 and never seen one in the wild. They are probably not worth much so you should probably just send it to me 

Here is some info on Ohio tools.


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## Bundoman

Thanks for the information and the link. A for the Ohio Tools plane, I bought that one back in the early 90's at a fall fest flea market. I was so young and new to the sport that I was unclear about the "o" designation in the numbering and thought that I had a Stanley. (I was young and invincible…..oh yeah and… still… well …learning then). I almost left the hobby about 5 years ago because I had drug all of those old tools from that stupid time in life through 3 moves and had not had them out of the boxes in all of that time. I went so far as to unbox and send a stack of 4 and 5 stanleys to the local auction house and was preparing to go online auction when I hit a wall and just couldnt part with the rest. The bug re-bit! The last 18 months have brought a bunch of new planes into the fold and restoring is very enjoyable for me right now. One of my daughters likes to help sand and wax so it is good. Only problem now is she can outrun me at the garage sales and is becoming my competition when she has spending $$$$. Incidently, I am still learning. I have roughly 20 restores done now but most dont have before pics. I do more picture taking now. I will plan to post more….42 is the count on that workbench with the Ohio to clean when weather permits plus some other tools too. The biggest irony in all of this is that I do not recall ever finding a 4 1/2 Stanley in the wild around here. I do not have the Stanley. I do tend to hunt on a budget too though. A lot of mouths to feed.
I do have a few Revonocs and a VanCamp (like the pork and beans). Not much else that is really strange though. Nice plane you have there!


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## lateralus819

Picked up another 4 1/2 on the bay. Good amount of Japan in left. Some tried sanding the Japanning to clean it. Needs a knob, ordered one from Deycart on eBay. Used a knob from my 608 for pics. It's pretty much how I bought it. Cleaned all the hardware that's about it.


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## Slyy

Nice pick up Lat, looking nice! Your stable has definitely grown bigger the last couple weeks.


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## lateralus819

Yes. I really like these 4 1/2 sizes. Feel really nice. I was glad it only needed a slight cleaning. Wasn't looking forward to a repaint lol. The blade is nearly full length which is great too.

I need to hold off on buying more planes, unless they're a necessity lol.


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## Slyy

Lat - FEED THE NEED!!!


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## donwilwol

Kevin, you seem to have a #4 1/2 problem! I've seen this happen before.

Bundo, its acceptable to show after pictures with out the before, as long as the restore happed pre-LJ inflicted.


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## lateralus819

Heres the before, sorry. And Don, did you notice they're BOTH type 10's?


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## donwilwol

that wasn't directed at you, it was due to Bundo's last statement "I have roughly 20 restores done now but most dont have before pics. "

But yes, you should know better!

You don't need to replace that front knob. Just leave it for me after the trade!


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## lateralus819

Haha, you don't have a type 10 4 1/2?? I'm surprised you don't have one of every type.


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## donwilwol

I don't have a type 10 #4 1/2.

My latest project is a complete set of each type of #4's. I need a 1,2,3 (yes I know these will be difficult) 5,8,9,12,14,16,18,19.


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## Bundoman

Here are a couple more restore projects that I worked on the past summer. Blizzard conditions overnight have me home from work today so got some time to post. Some of these are the projects that I was referring to that have no before pics. I just wasn't thinking about it in the early projects. The first picture is the lions share of the remaining planes that I have done. Somewhat from memory, there is a Millers Falls 22, 3 Stanley 6's, a Sargent 414, a Van Camp number 5, Revonoc number 4, Stanley number 4, Stanley 33, 71, and 18 1/4 among others. I also did the clean up on the Disston Miter Box saw and the bench vise in the foreground of this photo. I was bummed to find no visible etch on this saw. The blue vise on the bench is Craftsman and it was in good useable condition so I put it into service "AS IS. I built the bench in the summer of 2013l so the vise was a necessary project. I still had wood jaws to add at the point the photo was taken.










This is a blacksmiths post drill that I got at a garage sale this past fall. I popped up pretty close to closing time and the owner cut the price 75% so 20 bucks. I had to haul it in the wife's new mini van to get it home though!! Good thing she tolerates me!! 

Bottom line…I should either consider a bigger E-tank or smaller projects. It did turn out pretty good. The Jacobs chuck seen in the picture was added by me and is 1/2 by 20 threaded. I stubbed the hex head off of a bolt with my chop saw and ground a flat into it to adapt to the modern chuck. This old bugger will drill surprisingly large holes in steel without too much effort!!



















No before shot on this one either but I did at least get the obligatory wood curls for a change. Unfortunately, the nickel plating was pretty far gone but I want it for a user so not the end of the world. This one got a light buff and was this sharp This may be a little gloatworthy as a Stanley 90 for 10 bucks.










How about this pair of Jackson backsaws. These are nearly twins although one is a little older and split nut style while the other is not. Both have Warranted Superior medallions with eagles. The before pic is of the split nut saw. It has some pitting and may not sharpen too well. I have the newer one in pretty solid cutting condition now. I tried my hand at sharpening it and feel pretty good about my first attempt. Most folks here probably already know, but for those who might not, Jackson was a second line for Disston saws.



















Really looking for some warm weather to get back in the shop instead of on the PC. Thanks for allowing me to share.


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## Slyy

Dang Bundo!!! Some great work, gloat worthy indeed on that Stanley!! Also really digging the drill!


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## donwilwol

Great post. My wife's new vehicle would have been rusted up for $20 to, but she's learned to always keep a blanket in the car for my excursions.

Did you post the jacksons in the saw thread?


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## Bundoman

You called that one from experience Don. I got to the van, she looked at the post drill and produced a blanket almost magically. She has obviously been around me long enough to know my antics. She even helped me load it so it would be done just right! Hehehe! As for the saws, they have not been posted to the saw forum. i should consider that.

Thanks Sly for your comments. Sure is fun bringing this stuff back from the brink!


----------



## Bundoman

A quick question regarding block plane refurb for everyone. On planes like the Staney 110, 140, 220 and perhaps others, I see folks making replacement knobs on these sites but am wondering how everyone is cutting the threads in the knob to match the cast stud on the plane sole? Is a thread cutter available to do this or is it that they are being epoxied? How is everyone handling these? I have several to make.


----------



## donwilwol

I've found if you make the hole tight, they work fine. My long term plan is to do something like this http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/24157 but with an old broken block plane base.


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## Bundoman

I will have to give it a shot. Thank you for the info.


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## terryR

Bundoman, Nova sells an attachment called a wormwood screw which closely matches the stanley 110 thread pattern. The little screw is held by their 4-jaw chuck.

Also, turner's make a device in shop called a screw chuck, round piece of wood with a lag bolt or any size wood screw centered in the wood. Don't see why a smaller version couldn't be used in a drill press?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Well, this one didn't go so well. I bought some rusty dividers and such of the bay for like $12. I was pretty sure the small one was a starrett hiding beneath the rust. I was right. 









Unfortunately, either during the evaporust bath, or during cleaning, the spring or "bow" broke on the two I wanted the most. 









I called starrett for parts. Of course, they were great. They just said to send it in and they'd put a new bow on it and send it back. The larger Lutz divider is another story. Apparantly there were several tool companies by this name. So I either gamble on a starret part fitting ($16), or wait for a donor. Oh well. Any ideas appreciated.


----------



## Slyy

Oh dang Red, that's always disappointing. Nothing worse than dip something in the evaporust "knowing" how it'll come out, only to find out Fe2O3 was the main structural component or what all the japaning was attached to! 
Awesome of starrrett to offer the fix too!


----------



## Slyy

Something a little different for the restoration thread (at least never noticed one before).
Picked this Stanley No 13 carpenters level up a few weeks ago for $5 at one of the flea makers.


























It was a bit more complicated inside than I would have thought, but nothing too bad. The horizontal level has a provision for adjustment and it is still dead on. The vertical levels are not perfectly on though and I'm not sure what I can do to make them more accurate. I imagine that the metal tube each vial is contained in was placed into the level first, the three "teeth" were then expanded by some tool to bite into the wood, then each vial was cemented in place in An accurate manner. I have no way to replicate the process they use to cement these in place, so I dare not take the vials out and try. As a result, the interference fit is not as solid as it was prior to cleaning, so that's where the accuracy is being lost I think.









As such, it still makes a great horizontal level, a sorta okay vertical level, and will look damn good sitting in the shop!


----------



## CL810

Jake I love a level restore.- just awesome job there. Buffed up brass and some dark wood - can't get any better. Here's one I did.



















Purchased at an auction. Turned out to be 125 years old. Feels special every time I pick it up.


----------



## Slyy

Dang Clayton, the brass work on that is gorgeous!! That musts made you happy to bring that beauty home! 
First level for me, but these and similar are haunting all the places I look for tools, maybe some more in the future for me. This one says patented 1903-06 so not 125 for sure but maybe close to 100. All the same thx for the compliment, always good to see these things getting some action!


----------



## CL810

Jake, if you're ever in a jam for a vial there's a guy on ebay that restores and sells levels. He buys vials in bulk from the same company that sold vials to Stanley back in the day. I was able to match exactly the vial that was originally in my level. His ebay name is lfeehery1956.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Man, you guys are making me feel bad for using some old cherry levels as clamping cauls


----------



## theoldfart

You didn't!!!!! Shame heathen…………….


----------



## lateralus819

Just a shame to see that we no longer wish to produce products that are both functional, but elegant as well. :[


----------



## CL810

Dang Red you are clever! I'm going to relook at some of the worthless levels I see from time to time.


----------



## Slyy

Clayton - that's a great bit of info right there!!! Thanks!

Red - I thought there was hope for you, now I'm not so sure…

Lat - couldn't agree with you more. Tools are certainly meant to be used but who says they can't look good doing it?
That No 13 sure looks a damn sight better than my other level:


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, I can't find a Bailey under $40 at the fleas or malls around here to save my life, but I can pick these levels up for $5-10 all day long.

True up the bottom edge, put some packing tape on that edge to resist glue…..Grade A Caul. 









Just realized the one with a busted bubble is a SW….eeeekkk!


----------



## grfrazee

@Red - It's better than painting a vintage saw and calling it "artwork," at least.


----------



## theoldfart

Same goes for folks who use vinyl LP's for decor, yeesh.

edit
PS No more Templeton for Red, he has to share with us!
I can get three levels similar to the one Andy shows,looks to be maybe 24", 18", and a 12" for $60. Is it worth it?


----------



## CL810

Kevin I see 'em around here for $10-$20. Condition doesn't seem to change the price much. Finding the correct vial takes some luck. I'd personally only go that high if vials are intact, brass complete, and I'd use 'em.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, I was gonna say it's all about condition too. It's a decent price if they're all intact and in good shape.


----------



## terryR

Jake, nice job on that V-logo level.

Clayton, that's one of the nicest I've seen…You know, I've always thought I'd ruin a finished tool by trying to inscribe my name the best I could in a brass plate. I'd say the brass on that level with signature is priceless!

I also like to clean old levels…no photos to share…but I scored some great NOS glass vials off fleaBay for replacing the missing plumb vial. AFTER I get the balls to get out the glazing compound and actually try it. LOL.

Hey, Red, no blood, no foul. Just unscrew that SW plate, remove the original glass vials, and you got a cherry of a caul! Wanna ship me that SW stuff?


----------



## DaddyZ

These guys here deserve a big Thank You !!!

Reprinting WORK Magazine from the 1800's for free Download.

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/384/title/Issue%20No.%201%20-%20Published%20March%2023,%201889


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## bandit571

Been using two of my recent restores, on some Black Walnut









The little smoother is a Stanley made dunlap #4, and the jack is a Sargent #414c. Little guy laying on it's side is a Windsor #33. 16bf of rough sawn BW might take a bit to smooth down, right??


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## DanKrager

Naw, Bandit, it won't take long. Just put your ear protection on and make a LOT of noise, with either end, doesn't matter. 
DanK


----------



## ColonelTravis

Never thought about restoring a level, man I'm an idiot. I also see them all over the place. I'm gonna do that.


----------



## Slyy

ColT - I think you're realizing just how bad of an influence we are….. Sorry!


----------



## ColonelTravis

If loving old tools is wrong, Jake, I don't ever want to be right!


----------



## Slyy

^ A-men!


----------



## Slyy

Maybe my google-fu is waning, but can't find the answers I need there. I picked up this try-square yesterday (been looking for one a while) and want to refurb it. The pins through the brass triple point design look iron. Anyone had success completely disassembling this style try-square? If so, are the pins peened, or can they be easily removed with a punch? Should I just take the top portion of the brass off and clean the rest where it is? Thanks LJ's!!!


----------



## lateralus819

I LOVE those old stanley squares. Brass, rosewood, steel. Sexy.

I couldn't believe my eyes when i found one in an antique store, looks like it was fresh out of packaging.

Took minimal effort to restore. Good luck.


----------



## DonBroussard

@Slyy-I've got a couple of those try squares, and all the pins are brass. Yours do look like they could be steel, though. Maybe some 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper would tell you. I've never taken a square apart to restore it either. I just work around the metal and wood parts. I worry about breaking or losing the parts, and getting it back to square would cause me some concern.


----------



## theoldfart

Jake, I got this one a while ago.









Dead on 90 degrees still!


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## Slyy

Well I'll try just working around! Was sure happy to find one at a great price!


----------



## donwilwol

Jake, I've never had one apart either. My guess is they are peened. Let us know of your discoveries.

I think your best bet would be to drill them, but then I could be wrong to.


----------



## Slyy

Gonna try to keep it together for now Don, if I don't like the results, I may try taking it apart. It's pitted enough not much left in the way of markings, has a visible 3 and 5 and "TA_LEY". Might be more hiding under there….. Maybe.


----------



## planepassion

Very nice find Slyy. It should clean up beautifully. I've had terrible luck with square pins. Tried pounding them out with a nail punch and they didn't budge so much as a nanometer. So I abandoned the task and worked around it.

TOF, now brother, you picked up a stunning example, complete with the decal. And 90 degrees dead on is something to be admired. I've had to tweak the ones I've rehabbed.

But I love the feel of the rosewood Stanley in my hand and use it regularly.


----------



## theoldfart

Brad, nice restores.


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## Slyy

You got a lot of great color back outa that rosewood Brad!


----------



## DanKrager

Hey Brad, how do you tweak a square like that? I've done the peening trick on flat framing squares, but this is way different.

You made them look beautiful for the age and wear they've seen.
DanK


----------



## DonBroussard

@Slyy-Ref: my Post 2576 above. Please disregard my comment about my try squares having brass pins. Turns out, mine also have non-brass pins. Sorry about passing on misinformation.










This one's a Bluegrass (probably a Belknap but no markings to prove it) with a nice rosewood handle. This is the one I bring with me when I go looking for vintage tools to check for straightness or squareness.


----------



## planepassion

Drug, uh…tool dealer, Patrick Leach came out with his list of products this morning. I always like looking at his pictures. I find his prices to be retail, but I've also found the quality of his goods to be tier 1 too.

Anyway, Andy, when I saw the picture of this brace, I thought of you. Don't any of you guys go "restoring" this one when you add it to your collection!


----------



## ksSlim

If that one was at my house, it'd be a "wall hanger" for fear of messing it up.
They used to make beautiful, functional tools.

Really hard to find the "beauty" in a 18V cordless drill.


----------



## DaddyZ

SLyy ^ Someone on LJ's a few years back did Punch out the pins on a square to fix it. I keep thinking it was PurpLev but I looked & couldn't find a blog about it.

Found it !!!

Not PurpLev but Dan is the Man

https://www.google.com/url?q=http://lumberjocks.com/Dcase/blog/22428&sa=U&ei=QwjwUsXHIIeQ2gXOlICgAQ&ved=0CAYQFjAA&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNEQhn6McnxLC8G7rUmMHefh1A5rnQ


----------



## Slyy

Pat, awesome thanks for that link. Good to know it can be done. Always hate to be the first to try something that only to figure out I f-d up.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I always enjoy perusing Leach's monthly sale as well Brad. But ya, his prices are a little more collector than I like.

I sure miss Walt at Brasscityrecords. Praying is battle with cancer is going well.


----------



## JayT

Yeah, well, I got tempted by a couple items on Leach's list this time and emailed about them. One was sold already, but he thought he might have another on in similar condition, so was going to check. The other is set back until then. Keepin' my fingers crossed.

Prices might be retail, but they were better than similar have been going on ebay and I don't have to wait and try to outbid a bunch of others.


----------



## planepassion

I hope things work out for you JayT. I picked up a farm-fresh Stanley 4 1/2 T11 from him. Paid retail but it's in nice condition and I enjoy using it.


----------



## theoldfart

Jay, I bought side rabbits and a 40 1/2 scrub from Patrick. Prices were less than flea bay and the planes were exactly as described. Never worried about hidden flaws. Looking at a couple of things from today's list. I trust the guy.


----------



## terryR

Yeah, Patrick's prices aren't low…but I've always been happy with the tools from him! No hidden flaws. Got a nice 10" brace from this month's list…NOT the Yankee 2100! I'm trying to ease my way into braces…LOL!


----------



## JayT

Well, got two new toys to play with coming. Buying the Starrett 4in double square and the Sargent #81 double side rabbet plane from Leach's February list.

Gotta love tool addictions


----------



## Slyy

This mark familiar enough to anyone to help me decipher it? On a two speed breast drill, main colors look to be red and black. It's double stamped (or triple?) so it's kinda hard to make out.


----------



## Deycart

Mohawk Shelburn. It is a Millers Falls TM.


----------



## Slyy

Deycart, awesome thanks for the response! I'll go check out old tool heaven for some info!


----------



## theoldfart

Jake, here you go


----------



## Airframer

*How Not To Rehab A Plane*

Just took delivery of a type 13 SW No 6. I removed it and found some asshat had spray painted the whole thing black while still assembled… and I mean THE WHOLE THING minus the blade (thank god). There is saw dust glued in place by black paint on this thing still.. this one will be fun to clean up….


----------



## donwilwol

You''ll want to strip that one Eric.


----------



## Airframer

Gee.. ya think?


----------



## ksSlim

At least they didn't use aluminum "fence post" paint like on a Winchester I picked up last weekend.


----------



## donwilwol

How about one dipped in varnish.










Blade and all, but it came out nice


----------



## Airframer

Anyone ever use aircraft stripper before? Or do you think the orange goo will work good enough?


----------



## donwilwol

aircraft stripper ? Makes sense, you are stripping a "plane".

I use a sand blaster.


----------



## donwilwol

Gives new meaning to the phrase "plane mechanic".


----------



## Airframer

I could throw some Naval Jelly on there and call it a Naval Plane and feel right at home!


----------



## Slyy

You guys are PUNnishing today!!!


----------



## chrisstef

We use aircraft at work for stripping lead paint. It works well but its nasty nasty stuff. Gonna want some serious air flow AF. It'll make ya tarded in short order. Even under negative air exchanging 4-5 times an hour the guys still rock the charcoal filters on their reapirators.


----------



## Airframer

Does it seem to react to metal at all? That is my real concern. I was curious if it would etc the cast iron or just ignore it.


----------



## chrisstef

Hard to say bud. Id say we typicall use it on steel, mostly stair treads/risers and the odd piece of structural steel for welding on new connections. Its never hurt anything in the applications weve done but i cant speak to cast.


----------



## JayT

We use aircraft at work for stripping lead paint …..... It'll make ya tarded in short order.

Explains a lot.


----------



## chrisstef

I been this way waaay before i started huffing paint stripper JayT. Intend to blame it on being struck in the head with a horseshoe around the age of 8.


----------



## DocBailey

Your various puns have forced me to relate the following story.

A local newspaper - being in the business of words - once ran a contest for their readers. The first prize for the best pun was $100.00 and you could enter as many times as you wanted. A friend of mine sent in ten entries, hoping one would win-but no pun in ten did.
(read aloud for best effect).

Apologies in advance.


----------



## donwilwol

I heard of and airline once that used aircraft strippers as flight attendants.


----------



## theoldfart

OUCH, ears hurt ;0)


----------



## planepassion

AF, the "everything painted over including the sawdust" comment suggests to me that a used car salesman put sawdust into the transmission of what he considered a lemon to make it run smoothly enough to make the sale. Jeez Louise, there's even paint on the brass adjustor knob.

Fortunately AF, your plane looks to be in good shape and once you rehab it I expect it will perform well for you.

Don, is that maroon paint on your varnish-dipped woodie? Or rust? In any event, I'm a-liking that rehab you did on that.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Eric- I got a no 4 1/2 that way. I put this stripper on it awhile, until the spray paint was obviously curling. It didn't hurt the japanning at all. Then I was wondering why the knucklehead spray painted it. The japanning wasn't bad.


----------



## donwilwol

Brad, the maroon is the original red japanning from Ohio Tools.


----------



## Bundoman

I really love the effect of clear spray on rust and dust, and custom paint jobs can also be a joy for sure. I have a number 4 in the shop right now with fire engine red (not Stanley orange) rosewood handles. I have heard this referred to as clown paint in the past on old power tools and I see why. It just adds an element of "fun".

I must admit that I have not been lucky enough to strip paint from japanning though. It sure did turn out!


----------



## donwilwol

Been there, undone orange.


----------



## tefinn

Wow Don! You certainly wouldn't lose that plane in the wood chips!


----------



## Bundoman

I went on several rust hunts this fall and my 10 year old daughter went with me a few times. She has some interest in old tools and likes to dig through the old haunts with me. In the local antique mall, she found a wretched little Stanley 22 and brought it to me with some comments about how we had to take this one home because it was so "cute". The sole was worn far enough that the stamped No 22 was half gone and the sole was at about a 15 degree angle so it leaned ever so nicely to one side. After a few rounds of puppy eyes and the like, she convinced me to take it home. It became her project with my help of course. I leveled the remaining original sole on my jointer and cut her a piece of hard maple which she glued and clamped to the bottom with two part epoxy. I guided her as she chiseled the throat open and helped her trim the sole down on the jointer. She cleaned a lot of the parts and sanded the sole to its final shape. We painted it and she helped re-assemble it. When the project was done, I told her it was hers. Big smiles all around!! She has helped me with others but really dug into this little transitional. I guess it just spoke to her and it did need saving. Best $4.85 I have spent in awhile for the time and teaching with her. The paint looks a bit hazy in the picture because it steamed up from the warmth of my hand on yet another low teens day in IL. I went out to grab the pics this afternoon.

The number 4C is one that my dad brought me to clean up for him. This one was so good overall that I just wire wheeled a little and waxed the parts so can't really take credit for much work on that one. When he saw it, he told me to keep it and get him a rougher one to beat around with.

This 605 was a bit tougher. I made the new knob and found a replacement tote. The prior owner had stripped out all of the original threads for the tote fasteners so I had to drill and tap a brass nut to 1/4 thread and used all-thread to make a new stud. It has two hanger holes in the sole and the original japanning is pretty bad. I may still paint this one in the spring. It is better than it was but far from perfect. I replaced the blade with a NOS Stanley that I found at a flea market.


----------



## Bundoman

Yeah Don….You win!!! That is still much brighter than mine!!!


----------



## Slyy

Ewww Don that needed changing badly!

Picked up this adjustable brace bit for free a while back with some other purchases, not sure how or why but seems the top several inches were lopped off. 
Anyone have thoughts how I can make this work again? Maybe flatten it some on three sides?


----------



## Airframer

This is actually the second SW plane in a row bought on the bay that has been poorly spray painted. Seems to be a new tactic by the sellers to "spruce" it up for photos. I got both of them for a song though so I really am not complaining too loudly but come on.. if your just going to half ass it just don't do it…


----------



## ColonelTravis

Regarding the aircraft stripper, I've tried that stuff and it was an absolute mess that didn't really work. Plus the warnings on the can made me feel like I needed a full bodied hazmat suit. But reading Red's comment that it got off the paint and NOT the japanning is interesting, because the time I tried it I was dealing only with japanning, or what was left of it. In the case of spray paint over japanning it might be the best answer.


----------



## Airframer

Col - The stuff Red linked was just the regular paint stripper.. which I will probably use instead fo the aircraft stripper. I was just thinking go big or go home lol…. I'll go home now.


----------



## ToddJB

I've used aircraft paint stripper to strip power coating off bike frames. I'm not sure what it would do to the jappaning, but it ate through the power coat and I did not see any ill effect on the steel tubing, but as Stef said, that wasn't cast.

Oh and if you buy the spray version don't be down wind whilst spraying… that day sucked.


----------



## Slyy

Well, it's pretty pitted so only some of the graduations are visible and you can just make out the "S T N E Y" in stanley, but I've been wanting one of these pretty badly for a while. I don't know who "LB" is or why he carved the number "5" in the side of his Try-Square, but I'm happy it found its way to me! Best of all she's dead on square as I'm likely to ever need!


----------



## DonBroussard

@Slyy-So did you end up punching out the pins to do a disassembled cleaning?


----------



## Slyy

Don - I gave those guys a good whacking, they were (I presume) rusted to the metal straight edge, enough so that they weren't gonna budge. Used some 500 grit paper to clean the pins up a bit though and buff the brass clovers some as well.


----------



## DonBroussard

Came out looking like she got the attention she deserved. Nice restore.


----------



## lateralus819

Nice job Slyy. I love those old squares. I finally used mine today. I mainly bought it for marking square lines.

I had my wife buy me a set of machinists squares from grizzly for xmas. Still havn't used them lol. Don't know if i will.

I wanted a small one for checking edges of stock for square.


----------



## Tim457

Eric, I tested some citrus paint stripper on a later stanley that is painted, not even real japanning to get off some fine spray paint. The spray paint came off quickly and the black paint only got softened after I left the stripper on a while longer. Not sure how real paint stripper would be different but the citrus stuff claims not to kill your unborn children and it worked.


----------



## ColonelTravis

AF - der duh, thanks for pointing that out, obviously didn't notice the difference. All I know about the aircraft stuff is that I'm never gonna use it again. The citrus stuff that Tim mentioned is good, I've used it a lot. Not on hand tools but elsewhere. Actually, scratch that. I used it to clean off a few paint-covered plane totes and handles. Good luck with the restore.


----------



## BinghamtonEd

Slyy, that's a STNY #5. Hard to find. Nice score.

I have a similar square to clean up, did you just use 500-grit on all the brass parts?


----------



## donwilwol

That came out fine Jake. good for another 200 years.


----------



## Arminius

Any views on Kramer's Antique Improver? I have a batch of moulding planes and saw handles to clean up, wondering if it is worth it to pick up some.


----------



## Deycart

I've been thinking of picking up some. It looks like a mixture of turpentine, wax and boiled Linseed oil.


----------



## lateralus819

Who's ready for another #4 1/2? I know i am!!

This one was real grungy, i think at least. The sellers pics didn't make it look this bad, so props to him!

Cleaned up great though, probably 80% japanning. Good knob and tote. There was a huge mound of debris under the frog.

All in all only took me maybe an hour to clean up. Have yet to sharpen it. The iron seems really thick on this guy too.




























After



























I still have more lapping to do on the sole and the sides. As well as take care of the rest of that paint on the back. It's too cold outside right now!


----------



## Slyy

Ed - VERY lightly on the brass and the steel pins yeah. The pins were pretty rusty and I was unable to use a punch to loosen 'em so the clovers had to stay in place. Touched up the rosewood around the clovers and gave a light brush on them, mostly just to get the largest of the rust problems off those pins. Several generous coats of natural danish oil and two of paste wax.

Thx Don, that's the plan!

Lat, you and those 4 1/2's! Looking niiice boooooyyyyy!!!


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job on the 4 1/2. Who's the maker?


----------



## lateralus819

Union. MFG. it's got a great feel to it. I think the knob and tote are stained Beech. Must be a later model, I have a union #3 with Rosewood I think.


----------



## 69BBNova

I restored this plane over the past couple of weeks. Its a No. 5 type 11…

I used Evapo-Rust on the frog and base then scrubed with a Scochbrite pad, used a home made clock cleaning solution with a scrub with Brillo for the rest, then sanded and repainted the base with some Dupli-Color I had laying around…

The knob and tote I sanded to 220 then after a short soak in BLO I let it dry for 4-5 days resanded then a couple coats of wax. I ran the sides and sole on my belt sander to make it a bit flater…

I have to resand the tote with a finer grit because I just coulden't do anymore. Wound up in the hospital over the holidays after having two strokes in a week because of high BP (coulden't use right arm and leg much at all)...

It turned out that the paint was flat black and the wood came out dark, but it seems on the older plane I actually like it better. I'm thinking about striping the wax and applying a couple coats of shellac…

After I hone the Vertias O1 cutter I'm going to try to plane some Hickory and Mahogany because I'd like to make a thicker vice chop and start a jewerly box as a gift for a friend…

At some point I hoping to have a working set of type 11s.


----------



## Handtooler

She's a beauty!


----------



## 69BBNova

Thanks Handtooler,










I forgot to mention that this was my first complete plane restore…

I wanted to add that the horn of the tote was broken off through the screw hole, it fit well enough that a thin film of epoxy was good. You can see in the pic more sanding is required, but I'm going to let it go for now.


----------



## Slyy

Nova that turned out quite well, good job!


----------



## 69BBNova

Thanks Slyy,

You have no idea how happy I am that it came out this good.


----------



## Slyy

Nova - if it's anything like how I feel when they come out nice I can at least imagine. There is nothing like making something like this









Into something like this









Gets me every time!


----------



## Slyy

My first breast drill, Mohawk Shelburne (Millers Falls) 7740 two-speed. The breast plate was broken sometime in the past (a fall to a concrete floor?) and was welded back together in not the most professional job I've seen. Hope she serves me well!


----------



## ksSlim

I need some help. Found on a rust hunt, what i think is a "stanley 19".
Iron , used up, has blur(might be W?) Bailey pat Aug 17.
Has knuckle cap like an 18 but , 7 inches long.
Mouth eccentric lever is unusual, in that it pivots above the set knob

trouble with pics at the moment.


----------



## ksSlim

double post with no new pics
WTH over


----------



## Bundoman

Nice looking stuff Sly and Nova…


----------



## Bundoman

How about this old barnacle?? I believe it is an early Stanley 18 but feel free to set me right if that is incorrect. Looking forward to cleaning this one up when the weather permits. One small chip that almost had me leave it behind but I see fairly few excelsior body planes and did not have any of this style so it came home with me. I found it in the antique shop last week in a big pile of old iron stuff.










4 patent dates on the lateral


















Brent


----------



## donwilwol

Slim, I think what you have is a siegley.

Brent, I think you have an early 9 1/2 that someone put a knuckle cap on. I'll have to double check, but I don't think any 18s ever came with out the eccentric lever.

Edit. I misspoke. The early 18s and 19s did come without a lever. I'm not sure why I thought they didn't. That's a nice find.


----------



## Bundoman

Thanks for the confirmation, Don. I worked my way around the internet trying to be certain of this ID. I Just haven't seen very many o the really old block planes out there and was questioning my results. I left this one sit for three months at the store because of the chipped body. Coolness finally took over though and I just couldn't keep leaving it there.


----------



## donwilwol

Brent, here is the only online resource I know of, http://virginiatoolworks.wordpress.com/tools/stanley-planes/date-your-block-plane-type-study/


----------



## Slyy

Been quiet in here lately!

No V&B like JayT's showing over in the hand plane thread but second block plane and Millers Falls plane in one. A No. 75 circa mid century. Grabbed it yesterday at the swap meet for $3. Not too beat up so she cleaned up nice and easy. Iron is actually workably sharp but still needs work. Also grabbed a few auger bits for a couple bucks as well!

























And now


----------



## donwilwol

Nice work Jake.


----------



## Slyy

Thx Yoda. It'll be fun to put these to work!


----------



## lateralus819

Hopefully i can post my before and after of my new #10 millers falls. Won't be able to see it for another week and a half. It'll arrive when im on the sunny beaches of mexico! Damnit!


----------



## planepassion

Sly, that MF block was a really nice pickup. Looks to be in great shape. A $3-buck block always brightens the day.

I've found the purchase of auger bits to be hit or miss. I've learned the hard way to closely inspect them. And I see you picked up a saw file too. That's a great way to get vintage Nicholson (Made in the USA) files cheap. They go for nothing at garage and estate sales. Well done.


----------



## woodchuckerNJ

a 5 1/4 restore. Wish I had pics of all the planes that I have restored. This is the only one I have b4 and after.
My knuckle block plane was a disaster when I started, it's a favorite now.

Before









After:


----------



## Slyy

Nice Jeff! She looks ready to go to work now, even got a pretty blue dress on!


----------



## planepassion

Had the best rust-hunting expedition in ages last Saturday. I completed my Stanley *user* T11 collection with the acquisition of a #5 1/2. (I'm not bothering with a #1, nor a #2, nor a #5 1/4, so I'm done!) They're a mix of flat- and corrugated-soled samples but I'm not a purist in that regard.

Sadly, I think that the old timers are passing on because the volume of vintage tools has been steadily increasing at the antique stores and flea markets that I haunt.

Thought you might want to see pics of the goodies who have found a loving home.










The Stanley # 5 1/2, T11 is on the left. It needs a lot of cleanup and the tote needs a bunch of TLC but everything else looks sound. You guys have properly trained me to look for ALL the tell tail sighs.

Three patent dates plus 1" diameter adjustment wheel…









Low knob…









Stanley V-logo on iron…









The plane next to it is a Stanley #4, T11 (even with the low knob!) It's in great shape. It was sitting in a glass display case in a flea market.

Because I keep a dedicated 6" brace chucked with a countersink bit in it, I'm always on the lookout for different designs to see which ones give me the best performance. So I picked up this little number to try and will publish the results under Reviews.


----------



## theoldfart

Brad, I have a few countersinks like that. They work well, the trick is to keep the brace at 90 degrees and steady.


----------



## DocBailey

I have a drawerfull of countersinks-spanning decades and of every imaginable design, but these are what I keep chucked into a small throw brace


----------



## Slyy

Excellent score Brad! Anxious to see how they clean up!


----------



## CL810

Congrats Brad! Now that you' ex called it done I predict a 5-1/4 and a 2 will drop in your lap very soon!


----------



## john2005

So, for those of you who are planning to get all carried away and try to drive the pivot pin out of your #12 scraper. LEAVE IT THE CRAP ALONE!!!!










I still feel sick to my stomach. This is after the evapo bath and 2 days of soaking in penetrating oil just for good measure. First two light taps, it seemed like it was gonna go. Started moving out the other side. Third tap. CRACK! Stupid!

Oh yeah the before. Not even gonna touch the 12 1/2 now.


----------



## donwilwol

That sucks big time John.


----------



## Timbo

Ouch, I wonder if the metal had a small crack already.


----------



## planepassion

John, I feel ya dog…


----------



## DocBailey

John

First off, my condolences-all lovers of old tools feel the same sinking feeling when something like this happens.

Can you at least do some forensics and find out exactly what form that pivot pin takes, or how it attaches or the best way to remove it?

It would at least extract some good from the experience and help add to the knowledge base.


----------



## DonBroussard

+1 to DocBailey's suggestion. John's already paid the tuition-at least we could learn some lessons. I have a No. 11, similar to the No. 12, and I'm thinking the pivot pin is the same or similar to John's No. 12. It'd be good to know about the pivot pin before I attempt (if ever) to remove it.


----------



## john2005

Yeah boys, I could figure that out. I know it was staked into the body, but after the "event" I didn't spend much time with the remains. This evening I will pull myself together and figure it out for ya'll and maybe avert another disaster. 
In other news I was able to find a stripped down base on eBay for 23 including shipping. Won't all be original but at least it will be functional.


----------



## Minorhero

Here are some pictures of the last machine restoration I completed. A Craftsman 150 Drill Press.

Here is how it looked when I got it.










Here are some of the parts after disassembly










Here is the quill assembly after being disassembled, shined up, then put back together










The drill with its large smooth main casting and lots of shiny metal surfaces reminded me of a fire engine, so I went head and painted it fire engine red.

Here is the finished drill


----------



## TerryDowning

That drill press is a real beauty. Nice Job!


----------



## chrisstef

Man o man was there some good lovin put into that one Minorhero, not to mention that tasty Ford tractor in the background. Ive got an old, beat down, grumbly Rockwell drill press that could use such a fine treatment but im a little intimidated on taking it all apart and remembering how the hell I did it.


----------



## Minorhero

I took about 300 pictures when taking the drill press apart. I am basically building my own manual to put it back together again. This drill press was my 14th restoration. My first was an old Walker Turner drill press. I have to say that a drill press is probably the best machine to start with when doing restorations, the parts not overly big, and they are probably some of the least complicated machines.

A typical restore for me takes about 45 days working 1 or 2 hours a day, 3 to 5 days a week. If you can be without your machine for that long, definitely go for it.

The folks over at owwm.org will be of help if it is an older machine.


----------



## Arminius

It is sort of depressing to see how good even Craftsman stuff once was. Design mattered when they made that drill press.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Minorhero….


----------



## donwilwol

that drill press is a work of ART!


----------



## Slyy

DAAAAAAAYYYYUUUUUUMMMMM!!!!!!

That is some fine work Minorhero!! Fire engine red was a fine choice for a final color on that thing! The design of the housing on that drill press is just amazing! You've made me want a fire engine red craftsman 150 now hahaha!
Great work on a wonderful restore!


----------



## DonBroussard

@Minorhero-Excellent work in breathing new life back into that old iron! Is that spray paint, HVLP, or other on the red parts?


----------



## Minorhero

The first couple of restores I did was with spray cans, after that I switched over to using cheapy HVLP guns and very good paint purchased from either benjamin moore or sherwin williams.

Here is a picture of the paint I used:










Here are some other pictures of the drill press while being restored.

When I got the drill press, I was somewhat surprised to find that the previous owner had installed a light in the headcasting and attached it to the power switch. When the drill was turned on the light would turn on as well.










I decided I liked the idea so much that I kept the concept and installed stripped down track lighting fixture into the head casting.










Here is a picture showing the painting processes. I am fortunate enough to have a barn as my work shop and access to a pallet jack. I just lay the parts down on a pallet, wheel it out into the open, spray it down, then wheel them back into the barn immediately thereafter. Cuts down on bugs and random tree junk getting stuck to the wet castings.










Here is a picture of some random parts all shined up. I will use a mix of a wire wheel attached to a drill, sand paper, and evaporust to clean up steel parts.










A picture of the lever all shined up. For something round like this, I will chuck it into my lathe and and shine it up using 220 grit sandpaper. For the final shine I will use mothers polish and a rag. All of this done with the handles unscrewed of course.










And finally, here is a picture of the drill passing the nickle test while actually drilling.


----------



## shampeon

F to the yes on that drill press restore.


----------



## john2005

I suddenly have the urge to go look for an old drill press to restore. That came out fantastic!


----------



## ksSlim

Nicely done!

My Delta press is at least 20 years newer, and I know, it won't pass the nickle test.

Beautiful work.


----------



## terryR

Very impressive work, minorhero! Thanks for the inspiration to restore old drill presses! I doubt my wife will be happy, but I'm gonna have to start searching for an old one to restore, instead of the new Jet I've been drooling over for $1700!


----------



## DonBroussard

@Minorhero-Nice touch doing the nickel test with a US buffalo nickel (1913-1938), a nod to the drill press' era of manufacture. Your polishing skills are very impressive.


----------



## Tim457

Wow, that's a really impressive restore. Wasn't familiar with the nickel test. Didn't realize that was possible.


----------



## j1212t

Damn this forum, Now I have to restore my old drill press as well, instead of justifying my need to buy….

Very nicely done!


----------



## planepassion

I got this #18 a while back at a Craigslist garage sale.










That made me want to get her low-angle #65 sister. Soon after, the postman rang once. For some reason, he always rings once.










And this was inside.














































A quick tuning and sharpening led to this.




























Now I have both the HA #18 and LA #65, both in SW editions. And I'm happy


----------



## bandit571

Just think, I have a SW Stanley #103 sitting around, doing nothing

While that Four Square SW by Stanley does all the work, BTW it is a 5-1/4 sized plane…









that 103 could even fit on the back end ( spare tire style) of that refurbbed Ohio Tool Co. 05c


----------



## Slyy

Some nice plane porn from Brad and Bandit!!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Very nice brad. A 65 and a couple bedrocks are the only vintage planes I'm really in the market for. Pretty tough to find any of those cheap though.


----------



## Bundoman

Nice finds all! Very cool drill press makeover too!

Brad…Aren't knuckle caps addicting? You have found a very nice 18 and 65 so the trains already rolling…Now you can add the A18, S18, 18 1/4, 19….....and so on and so on. Hehehe!


----------



## racerglen

Friday rust hunt








Stanley #60 spokeshave and Millers Falls #55 ratchet screwdriver









No real restoration required, second shot, showing the sole of the shave is the way I got it, two tiny rust specs on the curved portion by the mouth, gone now, blades are full size, never flatened, minor wear from sharpening, gun cleaning brush to one hanger hole cleaned out some surface rust and done. There's some minor chips on the cast bar that holds the blades in, but otherwise, almost like new. Walther says they're 10", my ruler says this is 11" ?

The 'driver had some crud over the number and a bit of gunk in the area by the reverse/forward adjuster.
From our museum's annual antiques and collectables event. Dealer wanted 20 for the shave, 8 for the driver, gotem at 25.


----------



## Handtooler

Glen, Both rather rare, nice find and certainly in fine shape. Will you find a use for them or just display as a GLOAT?


----------



## racerglen

Oh nothing in my shop's gloat display only, although some things tend to gather more dust than others between uses.
The 60 will require a proper sharpening on it's blades, I already have a no name variety of it, so I'm familiar with the process ;-)
Just doing some fine tuning now on the 55, getting rid of the crud, and about to oil the wood then the mechanism but the ratchet still works as it should and no slop.


----------



## planepassion

BRK, if you bide your time, you can get a decently-priced 65 on ebay.

Bundoman, oh, you are naughty. Being the enabler and all.

Racerglen, those were excellent finds. That #60 is in super shape and you've got it ready for use. I picked one up at an estate sale and it was in similar shape-the lack of rust, sole and blades just as you described. I wonder if the old timers used them much. I do use the curved shave portion from time to time. I have a dedicated flat spokeshave that I use in other situations.


----------



## racerglen

Snarfle..computer locked up…
Brad, I wonder the same, Even my clone 60 seems to have little use, though the individual "dedicated" shaves I have do seem to have had heavier use, wonder if it's that multi tool snobbery thing, even if YOU bought it it's percieved as less "quality"?


----------



## planepassion

racerglen-I wouldn't attribute it to snobbery. It's just that I don't use a curved spokeshave enough to justify the purchase of a dedicated one. I find the two-in-one design to be a bit awkward in use. I had a dedicated straight-sole spokeshave before I picked up the #60. If I had bought the #60 first, perhaps I wouldn't have gotten the dedicated one…


----------



## john2005

Posted this on the hand plane thread, thinking that was where it was supposed to go. Probably not the first to do that. Probably not the last.

So here is the out-come on the #12 pivot pin removal. I soaked it for a couple more days. Then I pinched the pin in the vise and wiggled the blade holder back and forth, like you would adjusting it. It moves with ease, pin stay stationary. So I start to tap. 16oz ball peen. Light taps. It moves a little, but stops. So try going back. Again moves a little, stops. Increase force, and I can see the end start to mushroom ever so slightly. So then we go to the vise, socket on one end, vise on the other. Using it like a press. Nothing doing. Reinspect to make sure I am not missing anything. Seems pretty straight forward. So I put some heat to the cast. The idea here is the cast expands before the pin does, giving the pin a chance to get out. Get er nice and hot, give a few whacks, this time like I mean it (I sure hope that one I ordered is good). Nothing. Now I have, in some cases heated an exhaust manifold or something till it glows and you can turn out a fairly rusted bolt. So I put the heat back to it. I don't get to even dull red when POP! I can now only see half the pin. The rest is….I don't know. I spent a long time looking for it and never found it. I never heard it land. Furthermore I spent the next two hours in the shop making sure it didn't catch fire. 
Bottom line, I have no idea how that friggen pin comes out. It is staked to the body of the scraper and pivots on that pin. It has to be a pin that is pushed in at some point in the production process. In theory you should be able to reverse that process, right? It don't work that way.

Where I started.










The missing half.










Defeat.










Yes I know the photo quality is crap. I'd just rather put the money in tools.


----------



## racerglen

OOps, Brad I didn't meant you in that, rather that those who bought them new might have found them that way, less that usefull as compared to the dedicated ones.

As you say, having the dedicated one might make one less likely to go for the multi tool type.


----------



## DanKrager

Just a thought, John, that perhaps those pins are pushed in, one from each side rather than a single pin all the way through. I can't imagine that being production efficient. It is not unlikely then that the hole does not even go all the way through. What lead me to that conclusion (guess) is that the heat built up enough pressure to explode the pin out.

To prove that theory, one would have to basically ruin the other pin, either by drilling an extraction hole (crossways?) or drilling it out from the end for an extractor. Once you get a good grip on it, heat like before might help the extraction effort.

Perhaps under brilliant light and a good magnifier (10x) one could see the bottom of the hole well enough to determine if it is just a pocket.

Your work has to be helpful to others who want to restore similar, so thank you on their behalf.
DanK


----------



## Airframer

Sure seems like it is 2 pins not one. Like Dan said probably in 2 different yet un connected mortises. I also suspect that some pen oil that got trapped behind the pin reached it's flash point turning the cap into an explosive and it shot the pin out like a gun.

Try pulling out the next one and then see if you can run a wire all the way through.. I suspect you won't be able to.


----------



## john2005

You boys are sharp! I went out this evening with the mindset that I would get to the bottom of it. I simply clamped the remaining pin in the vise and she wiggled right out. I had begun having thoughts along the lines you were on as I went to bed last night. Stayed up about 2extra hours trying to figure it out. Only thing that made any sense was exactly what you point out Dan, the hole can't go all the way through. Heat er up and its like a potato gun with a smaller projectile.



















Not sure a guy could take this apart without ruining the pins. If you had a new pin (not too hard to make) then there are a number of ways to extract the old ones. 
Maybe I'll blog this so it can be referenced, if for no other reason than what not to do. I will probably see how the other pin comes out first though. 
And for what it's worth, the pins are about half inch long, staked on one end and pointed on the other. Probably goes together real fast.


----------



## donwilwol

You should blog it John. That will save somebody else a lot of grief. I won't forget it now!


----------



## DocBailey

Thanks John - your efforts are much appreciated.


----------



## DonBroussard

@john2005-My thanks for your efforts are added as well. Are the pins friction fit? Don't feel obligated to answer here, but if you'd include the answer in the blog, that'd be great.


----------



## donwilwol

Sargent 5307



















After


----------



## ksSlim

Very nice.
Thanks for the info on the Seigley.


----------



## Airframer

Nice Don! Is that the one I sent ya?


----------



## donwilwol

Yes it is Eric.


----------



## Slyy

Excellent work Don!! Wish I could scrounge up some of these Sargent planes in my area, gotta keep an eye out.


----------



## jordanp

Very nice.. what do you use as paint on these planes don?


----------



## terryR

Don, that 5307 came out great! Looks like a tool Darth Vader would use the Force upon! 
Hope mine comes out as nice…


----------



## chrisstef

Yoda, were the craftsman parts the exact same as the Sargent parts on that 5307? Ive got a cap and iron but no base but as luck would have it, I was browsing through a buddies bucket o' rust and hes got a craftsman version of the base I believe. I just might have enough parts to scab together a functional plane.


----------



## lateralus819

Finally back from mexico after two days of travel! Finally got to check out my Millers falls type 2 #10. Didn't take much to clean it up. It's in pretty good shape. about 90% jappaning. Has pitting on the cap and iron/breaker and one side of the base. Other then that it's a great user! Probably overpaid, but i had to have it.

Cleaned all the brass, wire wheeled all steel parts, sanded and re waxed the knob. Still might do the handle, its in good shape though. I wanted to do the sides with 80G but its pretty badly pitted, and Id probably end up going through the MF stamp on the side.

Before



























After


----------



## donwilwol

Stef, i believe the craftsman were identical to the Sargent other then the stamp on the cutter. So far that's been my experience. I've been doing some research and it seems the early stuff was marked Fulton tool co. Craftsman came about in 1927. After that Fulton became a second line, mostly made by Sargent. Some of the brass started becoming steel. And rosewood and mahogany became beech, but the tooling was the same.

Nice MF's!!


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks Don. Not sure whats next on the #4 1/2 list. :]. Makes 5 total now lol.


----------



## donwilwol

you probably should have a #4 3/8 to!


----------



## lateralus819

Quite cool! I already have a union 4 1/2. But that would be cool to own!


----------



## lateralus819

I've already lost on few 1/2 sizes, kinda bummed lol.


----------



## dbray45

Very nice Miller Fall, you did a good job cleaning it up.


----------



## planepassion

Well I'll be bedaggled. I've never heard of a #4 3/8's Don. In fact, at first I thought it was a typo by an ignorant ebay seller. But there is the photo of it. And it doesn't look Photoshopped. Who was the marketer that came up with that? No one knows because they were fired soon after 

It would be cool to see a #4 9/16's smoother. That's better than a #4 1/2 for sure.


----------



## DonBroussard

Same here, Brad. I think I'm going to start calling my No. 7, a 6 - 8/8. Sounds a lot rarer that way.


----------



## Slyy

Lat that MF plane looks dang good! Looks like you're gonna like it a lot!


----------



## TerryDowning

Totally jealous of that MF 10.

The 10 is on my list of planes to get and add to my MF family.


----------



## lateralus819

Good luck Terry. I saw it and had to have it. While it wasn't over $150 it was close.

My next hopefully is a sargent 410 or #10.

I've yet to sharpen the MF, cant wait to try it out though.


----------



## grfrazee

So I shouldn't mention that I got a MF #10 in a dark, dingy corner of an antique store in Bufu, KS for a mere $20?

Granted, the throat of this one is cracked a little, but I should be able to salvage it. Oh, and some idiot painted the handles blaze orange at some point.

Probably gonna tackle that one this weekend, time permitting.


----------



## donwilwol

I'm really after an Ohio tools #4 1/4. I suppose the 4 3/8 would be nice to, and based on the price, i'd say its probably rather rare. I don't know much about unions, but picking up something like that would probably start the proverbial ball a rolling.


----------



## Minorhero

Folks seemed to like the drill press restoration, so I figured I would show a few of my other restorations. Here is my brodhead garrett J-170 lathe (also known as a Yates J-170 before they were bought out).

When I purchased the lathe it was in pretty rough shape. It had been left outside uncovered for a period of years. Not exactly sure how long but I suspect it was measured in decades.

Here is the lathe after I brought it home. The stand are the pieces next to it.



















The bed was so rusted that the tailstock and banjo were literally rusted in place and totally unmovable till I removed some of the surrounding rust and then had to hit them with a mallet.

The biggest problem I ran into with the lathe was working with its giant size. The bed is one giant casting weighing at least a couple hundred pounds. Here is a picture of the headstock which itself was no small piece removed with the spindle and bearings still inside:










Here are some of the pieces on my bench after being removed.










The motor that came with the lathe was held in place with a large C-clamp and a block of wood… not making that up. The motor itself was also iffy at best and in my opinion under powered for the size of the lathe. So I went ahead and purchased a new/used motor. Here is that motor before I did anything:










Here are the pieces after the first coat of paint:










While dealing with the bigger pieces I opened up the motor, replaced the bearings, cleaned it up a bit, then re-painted. Here it is after I was done:










All of my machines need to be on mobile bases because my shop is actually a barn and I share space with other farming equipment and general junk that gets thrown in. So I am occasionally asked to move things around. This lathe was going to be no exception but of course they do not make mobile bases for a J-170. I therefore adapted a shopfox small mobile base into something much bigger by buying steel tubes of the same dimensions as the shopfox side tubes (but much longer) and painting them black.

Here is the result:










I then made a plywood insert with some 2×4's glued to the edges for stability and put a coat of shellac on it.

Here is the finished mobile base with one part of the lathe base on top of it for contrast:










Looking down at the cleaned up and finished reeves drive:










And finally the finished restoration:


----------



## Arminius

Good grief, that is a beautiful lathe. I would guess by the mass that performs superbly too.


----------



## bigblockyeti

That lathe looks great, I'd love to find something like that to restore. In my neck of the woods, someone selling that in pre-restoration condition would still want a fortune.


----------



## lateralus819

Wow oh wow! I want to try a restore on a big power tool some day.

Frazee- Great score! I still feel like i got a decent deal. My #10 is in great condition.


----------



## Minorhero

The trick is to keep looking  I looked for a year for the perfect lathe before finding this one. I got it for 200 dollars.


----------



## Tim457

Minorhero you've got a gift that's for sure.


----------



## donwilwol

wow. excellent job on the lathe.


----------



## DanKrager

That is impressive! Awesome lathe. 
DanK


----------



## summerfi

Beautiful lathe. I love that old iron. I passed on a vintage Powermatic for $400 a couple years ago and still kicking myself.


----------



## Slyy

MINORhero my ass, dude between those two restores that is freaking AWESOME! I'd love to find some large old equipment for a half decent price to restore like that! What an absolutely beautiful restore! If you have any actions shots of this or the drill press I think we'd all love to see them!!!


----------



## Minorhero

Not exactly a great action shot. This was my first ever turning project since I never owned or used a lathe before I restored this one. Its a slim line pen in process:










And here is the lathe being used to restore another piece of machinery. Any cylindrical metal items that are not too big get chucked up and then sanded on the lathe.


----------



## CFrye

Minorhero, the drill press and the lathe are beautiful. Please keep sharing!


----------



## terryR

Another awesome save, Minorhero. That lathe is to die for! Man, I wish we lived closer, so I could buy one of your restores…

Thanks for sharing!


----------



## dbray45

Seriously nice work on that lathe


----------



## grfrazee

@Minorhero - Wow. There really aren't any good words to describe how much you crushed that restore. I hope that one day my restoration skills approach yours.

Also, that huge lathe for a slimline pen? Isn't that like pulling a dandelion out with a backhoe?


----------



## john2005

That is, as stated, a beautiful restore. Hats off to you buddy!


----------



## Slyy

Thx for the action shots Minor, as all have said: great job!


----------



## DaddyZ

Excellent looking Lathe !!!!


----------



## planepassion

Minor, what makes that such an amazing save is that you combine a group of discrete skills to make it all come together. Metal working, metal surface prep & painting, knowledge of machines (the original motor was underpowered so I picked up a stronger one…made sure all the lathe parts moved & operated as required,) electrician (replaced rotors, installed & wired new motor,) and of course woodworker (realworld testing & use.) Put that all together and you truly have an awe-inspiring restoration.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Yup, I would love to do that…but I got no skills!


----------



## terryR

Yup, me too, Red!

Hey minorhero, do ya need a 48 year old shop apprentice? Can I camp in my Ford F-250 next to your shop? I can help change the oil in the tractor, mow grass, clean, cook…


----------



## jordanp

If the 48 year old apprentice isn't appealing enough. How about a 32 Year old bearded apprentice, that enjoys splitting logs, swinging axes. Fisticuffs and smoking a pipe.

.... just realized i was born in the wrong century…..


----------



## Slyy

Jordan, I bet there are times we could all almost say that!


----------



## woodchuckerNJ

awesome restoration. You wire brushed and sanded everything, or did you use chemical, and/or electrolysis?

The ways look great after seeing the initial rust… you did a good job.


----------



## CFrye

Almost Jake


----------



## Minorhero

Thank you everyone for the kind comments! Apprentices would definitely be roughing it. My shop is a barn with no heating, ac or water. So apprentices will be in for some tough conditions ;-).

Over the years I have used several methods for cleaning up pieces of a restoration. These days I am using an ammo tumbler with green plastic triangle media and some cleaning compound to clean the small hardware like nuts and bolts. For the castings I use a mix of wire wheel in a drill, sand paper (both manual and in a ros) and electrolysis. When cleaning up machined surfaces like the lathe ways I will use the ros with some wd-40 or liquid wrench.


----------



## terryR

Heck, minor, MY shop has no running water, no A/C, and little heat. And, when I'm not in the shop, I'm in the real barn with friggin' pigs and pregnant goats! 

Can I please come visit you, so I can get away? I've got an old rusty lathe…


----------



## Deycart

I think my problem just hit a new level.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/58729


----------



## Slyy

Problem to say the least….. You've got your work cut out for you!


----------



## Deycart

I got a move coming up, so they are going in to storage until I get settled.


----------



## bondogaposis

I picked up this Sargent screwdriver on ebay because I liked the handle shape. I wanted to use it as a model for other handles. When I got it I decided I try to bring the whole thing back to life. I'm not sure if Sargent had a whole line of screwdrivers or if they just made one for use on their hand planes. That's how I'm going to use this one. Unfortunately the ferrule is cracked, I am hoping the the epoxy I used will keep it from from further deterioration. I couldn't really come up with a way to make a new ferrule of this type. This tool has seen some serious abuse, the handle was completely cracked and the tip rounded over so bad as to be completely useless. The new handle is white oak and I reground the tip and now I have a plane screw driver.


----------



## terryR

Awesome job, Bondo. I think I was watching the same tool on eBay…decided to let it go. Now I'm sorry I did!


----------



## donwilwol

Bondo, Nice job on the Sargent screwdrivers. these are from the 1894 Sargent catalog. They are about the same in the subsequent catalogs that I have.


----------



## bondogaposis

Thanks Don for posting that. I love knowing something about the history of my tools. Maybe I need to go on a quest for full set? Could be the beginning of a serious affliction.


----------



## CFrye

Nice Bondo! That looks a lot like a tool that was given to my husband at a flea market while we were rust hunting one day. I think we told the shop owner we were looking for tools and she handed this to my husband. She said she didn't know what it was. The blade on it has been ground front and back. We didn't know if it was a chisel or a screwdriver.


----------



## Minorhero

I wanted to share another restore, so here we go.

For today's offering I present my 1960's Powermatic 60.

Here is the jointer after I unloaded it in my shop. I purchased it from a school auction for $382 making it one of my more expensive purchases.










The jointer was in pretty good condition to start with, it had been in use before it was sold. But it was missing a few parts (mostly from the fence system) and had been messily painted at some point in the past.



















The first thing I did was take it apart of course.










Then I began cleaning parts and getting the castings ready for painting. Here are the parts after spending some time either in a tumbler or getting hit with a wire wheel on a drill.










The jointer castings after the first coat of paint:










It started a light rain before I could finish the first coat of some other parts, but that didn't stop me 










Most restorations get 3 coats of paint. If memory serves this one did as well.

Then the start of the re-assembly process:










There is not a lot to a jointer, so the reassembly went pretty well. Powermatic is one of those companies that if you can find the right part number, you can easily get replacement parts, so I was able to order missing parts for my fence mechanism.










The finished restoration:



















Was even able to find a period appropriate power switch.










I had a 6" grizzly jointer I bought used before I had the 8" powermatic. To date this is my only powermatic machine, but I have to say, it is quite the beast. I love it and would not hesitate to recommend an old PM 60 to anyone in the market.


----------



## jordanp

^Well I hate to Have to follow that act.
But here is an antique Butcher cleaver I'm working on.
Does anyone know if kutmaster is a line from keen kutter?

Here is the before









And here is where I'm at currently I'm about 75% done.


----------



## ksSlim

Kutmaster cutlery was made in Utica NY. check Wards catalogs for the brand.


----------



## summerfi

Hero - Your stock is growing from minor to major. Your restorations are spectacular and causing me to break one of the 10 commandments - covetousness.

Jordan - I have a cleaver in my to do someday pile. Can't remember the brand, but it needs a whole new handle.


----------



## jordanp

Thanks ksSlim. I figured someone around here might know..

That jointer is amazing.


----------



## Pezking7p

So I started derusting a #5C yesterday with evaporust, almost 24 hours later and there's still quite a lot of rust on some parts, and the base casting is stil looking like it did before going into its bath (black). Do I need too pull the parts out and wire brush them, then put them back in? Or just wait longer? I was hoping to start the finer points of the restore this weekend.


----------



## donwilwol

The black should come right off with wire brushing, and I'd hit the rest as well. I've never had anything sit in evavpo rust for 24 hours and still had rust on it. That doesn't sound right Dan.

Edit, I should have said " I've never had anything sit in evavpo rust for 24 hours and still had rust on it unless I've used the evapo rust for about a dozen planes already."


----------



## Pezking7p

Thanks, Don! I guess I should pull them and put them to the brush. I don't have a wheel so they probably didn't get as much attention as they needed prior to going in the bath.


----------



## donwilwol

I've done it both ways. Wire brush first and not. I brush first to help save the evapo rust, although I've pretty much gone to citric acid now. The other point, if they are coated with grease, paint or something else protecting (or encapsulating) the rust, evapo rust may not be able to get to it.


----------



## Minorhero

Evaporust will remove rust but it it won't remove other things. If something is black its not rust and you will need to remove it with something else. If its on the sole, then when you lap it it will get removed regardless.

When you say there is a lot of rust on the plane, do you mean there is red rust? Or is it another color… if its another color, its not rust. And when you say there is a lot of rust on it, do you mean when you pull it out you see a lot of rust on it, or do you mean you pull it out dry it off, then come back 5 minutes later and see rust? Because if the latter, what you are seeing is likely minute rust. That is rust that forms on a surface after it is clean. Minute rust is very delicate and can be wiped away with something as delicate as a green scotchbrite sponge.


----------



## CFrye

Another beautiful restore Minorhero! Is that hammertone paint? 
Jordan, you cleaned that cleaver up nicely! Is this the knife you talked about etching?
Appreciate the info on evaporust and wire brushing!


----------



## CL810

*Minor *- what do you use for rust removal?

*Don *- Where did you find your citric acid?


----------



## bandit571

I guess this will be a "Before" photo?









Might be a few days until an "After " one shows up…..









Name on the end, seems to say G. - ROSEBOOM?


> Of CIN. O


?

The two wedges that hold the fence, seem to be tapered the wrong way. Furhter in, they get wider?

Getting that skate off might be …...FUN.


----------



## Slyy

Fabulous restore yet again Minor! You have me REALLY searching craigslist for vintage power now!!


----------



## shampeon

You can find citric acid at brewer's or winemaker's supply places and some health food stores. I ordered a gigantic bag online here:
http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/bulkmisc/bulkmisc.php

1 lb bag for $5, or 5 lb for $20. The 5lb bag that I have will probably last me for the next 15+ years.


----------



## shampeon

LJ double posted for some reason. So let me join the chorus on the beautiful Powermatic 60 restore. Solid work.


----------



## donwilwol

I actually ordered a 1lb bag of citric acid from amazon. I was placing an order anyhow and I wanted to try it. Its amazing how far that 1lb has gone. I keep forgetting to save Ian's link, so that'll probably be the next order.


----------



## WillliamMSP

People that do their own canning use citric acid, too, so you can some times find it in certain grocery stores in addition to hardware stores.


----------



## rayman54

That lathe looks GREAT!
I am at the moment doing a restore on a 1950 something Craftsman TS 113.27520 I can only hope it turns out looking as good as what you have done.
I have pic's so I will share them when done.

Now I think I need to start looking for an old wood lathe. LMAO!


----------



## planepassion

What would you guys suggest I use to remove paint splatters and gunk from a beech woodie while leaving the patina intact?


----------



## theoldfart

Brad, razor blade used as a scraper. I've done it a few times, gets the crud off without taking off the patina.


----------



## DanKrager

Brad, I'd start with Murphy's oil soap near full strength, i.e. little water and 0000 steel wool. That will get most of it, in my experience. Paint that had a good chance to stick won't pop off with this…you'll have to get more drastic, like scraping with a razor blade very carefully just on the paint droplet. If it is clean enough to suit, then a good paste wax coat buffed out to your desired sheen should highlight the patina.

That's what I would do, but I'm not quite the meticulous restorer you and the others are!
DanK


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I've used razors for that stuff too.


----------



## donwilwol

I've used BLO and mineral spirits, but Murphy's oil soap would probably be about the same. I agree with Dan on the paint. You might be better off to leave it. Sometime a dab of goof-off will loosen it, but you need to be careful, because it'll lift everything as well.


----------



## lysdexic

Brad, SuperDave did a video comparing Murphy's Oil soap/paste wax mix versus the same with turpentine. He like using turpentine with 0000 steel wool but admits it is a little harsh.

The video covers the entire refurb.


----------



## Tim457

Brad the problem with removing the paint spatters is the wood underneath them is sometimes protected from getting a patina like the rest. The patina where the paint splatter spots were removed should even out over time though. The one's I've tried it on, I had good luck with a hand scraper. The small hook was enough to pull the paint chip and nothing else in a lot of cases. I can see how a razor blade would work too.


----------



## DocBailey

+1 to Tim's comment re what's under the paint

Do not use a razor.

use the edge of a pocket knife and pop the spatters off.


----------



## Minorhero

Here is a picture of the paint I used on the jointer. Most of the paint on my machines is this type from benjamin moore.










For rust removal I use several different processes. For hard to get to areas and for hand planes I use electrolysis. Google it, its super easy to do, you just need a tub of water, some borax (or laundry soap), some rebar, and a car battery charger. Safe to use in well ventilated areas like a barn or outdoors.

From harshest to least invasive, I will also use a wire wheel in an angle grinder, wire wheel in a drill, a random orbit sander, just regular old sandpaper by hand, Steel wool, green scotchbrite pads, and evaporust.

For machines flat surfaces the harshest I go is the random orbit sander, and even that is only with WD-40 or similar lubricant squirted down on the surface as well. I try to be very careful about not messing up my surface. A lot of folk wouldn't use a sander on a machines surface and stick with steel wool, but frankly I find that there is no problems so long as you are careful to keep the sander moving.


----------



## planepassion

Tim, Doc, those are very good points. The purpose of removing the paint spots would be to improve the appearance of the plane. But if the underlying areas lack patina, then they will contrast against the rest of the plane…and look weird. I'm inclined to leave the paint as, to the human eye, it's a natural think to be expected….versus something which begs the question, "Why is that spot lighter than the surrounding area?"


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^ya tough to day Brad. Maybe it's wise to test in an inconspicuous spot first. I've had paint splatter drops that plopped right off when I applied pressure with a blade, and others…not so much.


----------



## donwilwol

sometimes a fingernail is the best weapon for the paint spatters.


----------



## Slyy

Well all, seeking some help and maybe some frustration relief. I've got an early 20ty century Millers Falls No 12 drill. I dig this because it has alligator jaws so I can use auger bits (already have one with 3-piece jaws). I've got it completely dismantled except for the chuck. I've soaked it in penetrating oil for 2 days, adding a bit every is and then. Currently I only have vise grip type pliers and a vice used to try and screw/unscrew the chuck with no luck. Don't have a torch so sat it in front of the heater for a bit, hot enough to be uncomfortable to hold and stop no luck.
My father-in-law is a machinist and has quite a bit more things that might help, but I'd love to get undone myself.
What all would you suggest I try? I've had very good luck so far in my restores and had very few things that just wouldn't come apart like this guy!









It was in bad shape before!
Only de rusted right now, the jaws move freely inside the chuck but I just can't, for the life of me, get the chuck itself to operate.


----------



## DanKrager

For really stubborn stuff like this, I mix transmission fluid and acetone 50-50. An overnight soak should be more than adequate. I've been known to take out some frustration by applying a nylon faced dead blow mallet to the sides of the chuck against the proverbial shop log. Between those two, there's nothing lying around my shop that I haven't gotten apart. That includes a four foot long 3" diameter shaft holding close fitting parts along its length that had been in dirt and water since the early 90's. You'll get it…a bit more patience.
DanK


----------



## theoldfart

Jake, how 'bout I just send you another breast drill and save you the trouble? Wont be quite the vintage you have there, but everything will move.
Secondly, I'm not sure brace bits will work very well in this type of drill, maybe small ones at slow speed.

Let me know.


----------



## ksSlim

+1 for Dan, ATF 'n Naptha here. Usually in them old ones, crud behind the jaws and the outside sleeve "collet"?
Some are mounted to the stem with a LH thread.


----------



## upchuck

Jake-
I've ruined tools when I was in too big of a hurry trying to take things apart. If that was upchuck's chuck this is what I would do. Apply some sort of penetrating fluid/lubricant. There have been several good suggestions of types and mixtures from others. Time is my friend. Let it soak in. Wipe it clean. Repeat again and again. There are other parts to clean up and prepare. Time is my friend. I'd drill a hole as deep as the chuck is tall in a piece of softwood. The hole should fit the chuck as tight as possible. Then I'd cut a kerf into the hole from the side. Now when I squeeze the wood housed chuck in a vice the chuck won't become distorted and collapse. More soaking in oil. Time is my friend. Gentle tapping with a hammer and application of heat to the chuck shell can't hurt. I'd measure time of soak in days or weeks for the really tough cases. But once I have any movement, even a quarter of a turn, then it is easy to work it back and forth and apart. Good luck.


----------



## Slyy

'Preciate the help all. Yeah upchuck, I'd happily take all the time to get it apart as gentle as possible. The drill waited 102 years to reach me, I suppose I can wait a bit as well. Went with dans suggestion and got in some transmission fluid and acetone, occasionally givin' the mix a shake to keep the TF in suspension. The gears all had some VERY stubborn schmutz caked in 'em, including in the parts of the chuck mechanism I could reach with dental picks and all that good crud scrapy stuff. Not difficult to imagine its a lot of this stuff caked in the threads of the chuck that are likely keeping it from moving.


----------



## Arminius

Probably too late in the year for it to be feasible for you, but I have used thermal expansion to loosen a badly seized/rusted Morse taper on a lathe I restored. By keeping it in a sub-zero garage, then applying topical heat, I was able to get the penetrating lubricant to move further in and over the course of three days it came loose.


----------



## racerglen

My son the mechanic used my biggest pipe wrech (after lube soak ) to free the jaws on a M/F corner brace I'd picked up from a retired electrician friend, probably what he'd used to tighten them in the 1st place ;-)

(wrench jaws well wrapped mind you )


----------



## Airframer

SW #203..

Before: 









After:


----------



## Slyy

Excellent Eric! Picked up a similar millers falls recently, nice catch and resto!

Not much too look at here but just got done with a No. 20 try-square today.
This one I sanded 150 to 1000 instead of the usual evaporust. Wanted to keep some of the patina in the low spots while getting rid of the rust blooms.
Before









After:


----------



## lateralus819

Very nice sly. Love those squares. Picked one up a few months ago, looked like it just came off the rack. They're a joy to use, wish i had a small one. I think mine is 12"


----------



## CFrye

Great job on the square Jake! Looking forward the eggbeater results.


----------



## leopard887

Great job and idea Don.


----------



## steve_in_ohio

That square looks great


----------



## upchuck

For knob and tote repair where do you folks get your rosewood.?


----------



## planepassion

upchuck, I got a 2×2 length of Indian rosewood at Rockler. That has worked well for tote beavertail replacements.


----------



## lateralus819

heres my $15 #18. lets see what we can do. Always wanted a knuckle, but for for $50++


----------



## bandit571

A week ago ( I think) picked up an old plough plane









Thick, ugly varnish ( from the seller?) no iron, broken off wedge.

So far:









It has a new iron and wegde, and most of that ugly varnish is gone. Plus, it even works









Like a plow should. I get the rest of that ugly varnish off, add a good finish to it, this might be a user….


----------



## Deycart

Bandit you amaze me. You have no hesitation to pick up the most abused tools and go to town on them and get them back to life. I typically will pass up on that kind of stuff. If I didn't I would have even more tools to restore and no where to move.


----------



## lateralus819

before




































After





































What a sweetheart she is, especially for $15 shipped. I was hesitant at first, but man shes a beauty. #18. verything is here and works. Best part is it took less then an hour. Japanning is near %100. Wanted one for a long time now happy i have it! Love the sound of that "Click" as the cap engages.


----------



## JayT

Nice one, lat. Knuckle caps are so much more fun and stylish than other block planes.


----------



## lateralus819

I agree JayT. Being a cheapskate pays off. dunno how no one saw this.


----------



## steve_in_ohio

that is awesome bandit


----------



## grfrazee

@lateralus - I have a #18 in similar condition. How'd you get it done in an hour? Did you just do Evaporust and call it good?


----------



## lateralus819

Grinder and a wire wheel. Did it all one handed too lol. i sanded the sides up to 600 grit.


----------



## Minorhero

Love the block plane lateralus!

Here is my Parks 12" Planer restoration.

I bought the Parks from a fellow machine restoration enthusiast. He got it because it was so darn complete and a lot of these old planers are missing the enclosed base and belt cover (both of which were sold as an accessory)

At any rate this one had both stand and belt cover, but lucky for me he did not have time/space to do a proper restore of it so I was able to buy it off him.

At any rate here is the planer after I finished unloading it and before I did anything to it.










Without a doubt this restoration was the most challenging one I have done either before or since. The gearbox involved a lot of little pieces that all had to be pressed together just so in order for it to work.

Here is a look at the cutterhead:










All that stuff in the background was several decades worth of pitch that had encrusted the cast iron guard.

Messy old gearbox:










Anyway, first thing was first. I had to take it all apart. This was very difficult to do actually because some of the pieces were pressed into locations that made them very difficult to remove. The gearbox was made of cast aluminum and was essentially irreplaceable. Getting the gears out was not easy, in fact it sorta was beyond me because a few of the bigger gears that had bronze sleeve bearings I never did remove. They were tight in their bearings and since if the sleeves are not worn there is no reason to replace them I just left them be.










Rusty hardware:










Well I did my normal cleaning process and was quite happy with how things shined up!










And the painting. In this case I decided to go with a color which was similar to the original though not preciesly the same. I wanted something that had a hint of steely blue in it.










This was a very complicated machine compared to other restores I have done so assembly was both finicky and took quite a long time.










Table raising mechanism:










Cleaned up cutterhead installed:










Gearbox before much in the way of grease was re-applied:










The "badge" on this machine was originally a sticker. I was not at all happy with that, especially since earlier versions had come with proper metal badges. There was some artwork online for parks badges but not nearly the quality that I wanted, so I re-created the badge in photoshop, then found someone to make me some badges. I ordered 3 originally and ended up with a 4th one from a different fellow using a different processes to create them. I used a punch set to put my machines original serial number onto one of them and ended up selling off the rest for my cost so a few people could have parks badges on their machines.










The roller feed system had a handle but no knob on the handle. I bought a metal knob that looked similar to the original but had a stem on it. I then sawed off the stem and drilled into and tapped the knob so it would screw onto the handle.

The finished planer:


----------



## racerglen

Very nice, and very creative with the badging.
Like the creative resale on the badges as well !
Lotta lotta work and a great result.


----------



## lateralus819

Do you restore for as a profession? Man what beautiful work. How long did the planer take?


----------



## summerfi

Another great restore MH. That planer brings back memories. My dad had a Parks planer in his shop as I was growing up. I'm not sure if it was the exact same model or maybe just a bit older. It did a great job. The only problem it had was the gear box leaked just a little bit. Must have been a bad seal. I love the mass of the old planers compared to today's lunch box models.


----------



## Minorhero

I do not restore as a profession, but you are not the first to ask the question.  I could never do this to make a living because quite frankly it takes too much time. I think the Parks took somewhere in the neighborhood of 200 to 250 hours to complete not counting time waiting for paint to dry etc. Meaning at the end of it someone could buy a brand new top of the line planer of similar size cheaper then I could restore an old one.

I got into restoration work by accident actually. My first restore was an old Walker Turner drill press and I had absolutely NO IDEA what I was doing. Through the very kind and patient help of folks over at owwm.org I was able to restore that drill press (not particularly well by my current standards, but I got it 100% functional again). In the process I discovered that I liked restoring old machines as much as I liked woodworking, so it became a side hobby. Plus I am darn cheap, and I simply can't afford to buy machines brand new. But I can afford to buy them VERY used and then restore them.


----------



## Slyy

MH another great restoration indeed! I really like all of these you've posted.

Lat, that's also a great finish on that No. 18! I'd love to find a knuckle out in the wild, might just have to settle for the 'bay.


----------



## steve_in_ohio

Wow, that planer is beautiful. It took a drastic change from what it looked like at the beginning. Awesome job, looks very professional


----------



## DonBroussard

@Minor-Great job! The fit and finish of the Parks planer look terrific! If you don't tell anyone the color is not original, very few people would realize it. I have a very similar Parks in my restore queue now. I wish I had the original belt guard, but it got separated from the unit somewhere during its history. I'm thinking I might get a sheet metal one fabricated. Please keep posting pics of your awesome restores, Minor. They can either be intimidating or inspiring-I choose inspiring!


----------



## terryR

Another fantastic job, MinorHero! IMO, you should quit your normal job and start a restoration busuness! Team up with a local that has a big truck and trailer, and ship those gorgeous vintage tools to the desparate buying public.

Oh wait, only about 25 of us to consider as customers at first…and none of us have $$$. 

At the least, you are saving some valuable pieces of history, and inspiring others to try harder!

Lateralus, sweet knuckle block…came out great!


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks terry, cant wait to use it! I love that it only took an hour. Fastest restore yet.


----------



## Momcanfixit

Okay, this is completely Dave's fault….

I bought a box of wooden planes a few months ago










The longest one had an incomplete repair to the mouth, so I put that aside and decided to see what I could do with the 16" one. The heel and iron are marked "A. Monty Roxton Pond P.Q. I looked it up and it was a Canadian company in Quebec in the late 1800s early 1900s.

Before


















During:









After



























I did what made sense to me after reading as much as I could although it may horrify some. I didn't want it to look 'new' or anything, but I wanted to get rid of the paint spill and clean it up without using any turpentine, so I carefully took a scraper and 220 sandpaper to everything but the sole which was nice and flat. I brushed it all out and then put on a thin coat of Danish oil.

I soaked the iron and chip breaker overnight and then scoured them with a 3m pad. I sharpened the iron by hand, but will try it on the Worksharp next.

It took me awhile to adjust the blade depth. I was whacking away at the heel with my mallet when all of a sudden I hit the "sweet spot". It actually sounded different and I was giddy.

It was a lot of trial and error, but I think I've got the 'gist' of it.

Seriously, it's all Dave's fault!


----------



## bandit571

Whew, thought for a moment, I was getting the blame…

Nice job…


----------



## Momcanfixit

Okay - so it's your fault too. You provide the examples, but Dave sent me the links to some videos on wooden planes. If it weren't for that, I'd still be trying to get the dang thing apart.


----------



## CFrye

Nice job Sandra!


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job Sandra. I blame Dave to.


----------



## terryR

Looks great, Sandra! I prefer the vintage look, too.
I blame Don.


----------



## planepassion

Sandra, looks like you finished rahabbing the foreplane of the bunch. Did you camber the iron for that task or are you going to use it as a jack? The long one is about 22" long? If so, that's the try plane of the bunch (if you camber the iron), or a jointer if you don't.

What really intrigues me are the two plow planes you have to the left in your photo. Looking forward to watching you put those back to work.


----------



## racerglen

Nice work Sandra !
Some more history to your Roxton Pond, they were swallowed up by Stanley in the early 1900's, that's where all Canadian Stanley planes came from.

(at least I've never heard of any other plant ;-)


----------



## Momcanfixit

Thanks folks. 
Brad - I have no idea…… the iron had previously been sharpened at 30 degrees with a slight rounding at the corner, so I followed suit.

Unfortunately the 22" one had a large triangle cut out at the mouth where someone started a repair. I knew nothing about wooden planes and frankly didn't even notice it when I picked them up.

The learning curve is steep, but I'm enjoying the process.


----------



## donwilwol

Unfortunately the 22" one had a large triangle cut out at the mouth where someone started a repair. I knew nothing about wooden planes and frankly didn't even notice it when I picked them up.

Sandra, someone started to tighten the mouth. Oddly enough I can't find a blog of the process, although I know there are several. Anybody?


----------



## DonBroussard

Nice job on the rehab, Sandra. I like that you left the patina as well. Good luck with the other restores-I'm anxious to see the others back on the job!

-From the other Don, who is not in trouble at this point.


----------



## donwilwol

Ok, I can put this up now. Here is the rest of the story.

A Walker Turner Lathe, Model #5121 with a serial number of #0000099

Before










After, before the motor was bought










And now










I'm still deciding of I want to cut the inside panel to fit over the motor.


----------



## lateralus819

Cool Don, found a motor!?


----------



## donwilwol

A new grizzly 1 1/2hp.


----------



## DanKrager

Nicely done, Don! Congratulations.

Don't think I would cut the panel, but I wouldn't hesitate to make a wooden look alilke with the motor hole. On second thought, the motor is right in line with chip fall, so I might make the look alike with a sloped top to fully enclose the motor and shed the chips. Now if you put a tool tray under the ways…

DanK


----------



## lateralus819

Sweet sellin the cman?


----------



## donwilwol

That was my thought to Dan. I plan to make a cabinet under it, and I was even thinking od putting the whole thing on wheels. I may build it in to enclose the motor like you suggest.


----------



## DanKrager

Don, you may want to think very carefully about putting wheels under it. My lathe weighs 600 LBS stripped and it moves around on its casters in use. Fortunately the casters are retractable, not lockable. This puts the full weight of the lathe on its legs=stability. Locking casters on other equipment I have had have been replaced or removed and the item put on a "pallet", (movable with a pallet jack) to keep it portable AND stable.

A long time ago I read about a turner who built a base for his lathe and put double walls on the cabinet which he filled with sand, adding, if I remember correctly, several hundred pounds of vibration dampening mass. He was pleased with the result, and I thought the idea was clever. He even put a stopper in the base so he could remove the sand for moving.

DanK


----------



## DanKrager

Oh… BTW, Don, have you arranged a display place in your LR for the this lathe to make room for the next lathe you are going to restore?  You're gonna want a sizable metal lathe for wood turning next….

Been there, sledded on it.

DanK


----------



## donwilwol

good points Dan. I wasn't sure I needed it for the lathe. I really don't plan to move it.


----------



## superdav721

I havent been on here in a while.
The big machines getting refurbed are amazing. And so many little tools that look brand new.
Great work guys and gals.
I have been polishing on a 45. 
I can adjust a woodie.
This 45 is a bit of overload.
It will be fun.


----------



## CFrye

Congratulations Don! That one seemed to be fighting you all the way. Way to persevere.


----------



## superdav721

Before









after


----------



## Tim457

Nice job on that Sandra. I'm curious about the two plow planes too.

Don that turned out great. Was the original motor just that small? I like Dan's idea of saving the original panel intact and making a replacement that's bigger.


----------



## bandit571

Nice job, Dave!


----------



## superdav721

Thanks Bandit.


----------



## theoldfart

Dave, nice job making shavings. Moldings are fun as well


















For a six board chest


----------



## donwilwol

Tim, I didn't see the original motor, but the previous owner said it had a 1/2 hp. But I'm not sure that was what it was suppose to have. It sounds very small.


----------



## superdav721

Thank you Kevin


----------



## Tim457

Dave, saw your video blog post, that looks like a great find. Hard to find them that nice.


----------



## superdav721

Thanks Tim. I was most amazed when I opened the package. Then I had to let it set a week before I had a good chance to play with it.
That killed me.


----------



## Momcanfixit

Looks great Dave.


----------



## superdav721

Sandra you make me smile.


----------



## Minorhero

Nice work on the lathe don!

Please don't cut the cabinet, it will make me cry 10,000 tears.

It is possible to make that lathe mobile by putting it on a mobile base similar to the one I created for my my lathe. Look up a few pages to see what I mean.


----------



## Minorhero

Well it is snowing where I am at in Maryland and I have a bit of a snow day. So I will go ahead and post my Unisaw restoration.

I bought this machine for $400 from a fellow machine restoration enthusiast. He picked it up from a fellow who was literally using it as a job site saw. The guy had drilled holes in the cast iron plinth to attach 2×4 to and then had attached casters to the 2×4. Based on the serial number the saw had been made in 1950. The bullet motor is a 1hp.

Here is the saw after I unloaded it.










Here is a closer look at the insides.



















Despite being a bit rusty, the saw was quite complete. I did end having to do some minor surgery on the bullet motor (there is a very delicate spring in there that needed to be replaced, and of course I replaced the bearings as well) but beyond that it just needed my normal cleanup.

So of course the first step is to take it all apart.




























Then the clean up could begin.










Shined up worm gears:










Motor being painted:










Motor re-assembled:










Parts ready for paint:










First coat of paint:










I thought a lot about what colors I wanted for my unisaw, and ultimately ended up with a two tone machine. Some folks were skeptical about how it would look, but I think the results are quite good.

Some small parts being painted the other color:










All the parts laid out.










Re-assembly begins:



















Finished restoration.



















I don't have pictures of it, but I ended up going with a shopfox classic fence (bessy clone) rather then the original jetlock fence. I have never regretted that decision either.

Hope you enjoyed the show!


----------



## superdav721

She is purdy!


----------



## upchuck

Minorhero-
Your work is awe inspiring. I am green with envy and also green because it's St. Patrick's Day. Like Snoopy said,
"There's a little Irish Setter in all of us."


----------



## steve_in_ohio

Minorhero, that looks amazing, amazing job


----------



## donwilwol

that's a beautiful table saw


----------



## terryR

Dave, love the 45 shots…I'm building a lil till for mine at this moment for the tool chest base.

Minor, awesome and inspiring!


----------



## superdav721

Thanks Terry


----------



## Pezking7p

This thread is making me want to quit my job and just start refurbing old tools for a living.


----------



## superdav721

I will work for ya.


----------



## bandit571

Hmmm, I starting to get that itch, again. Started to look for an old rusty plane to rehab up…...


----------



## superdav721

Bandit my problem is I have more than I have time to do.


----------



## DonBroussard

@DonW-Nice restore on the W-T lathe. That was a great find.

@Minor-I rehabbed a '47 Uni last year, but I'd be embarrassed to put it up after you showed your rehab. I can't ever get the steel parts shiny like you do. I just made mine smooth so they're workable, but nothing to look at. Another great restore. I looked at your profile to see if you had any blogs posted. I know I would like more details on how you get those machines to look and function so well, and I'm sure others could learn things as well. Might you consider doing a blog on some of the details?


----------



## Minorhero

I probably will not do a blog per se. I do however keep running threads going over on owwm.org for each of my machines (at least I have done so for the last few machines). If you have an old machine and want help taking it apart or restoring it, definitely check out owwm.org. I stumbled upon them by accident with my first restore (at the time I just wanted my busted up Walker Turner drill press to work right), and I have been constantly amazed by both the depth of knowledge and the willingness of folks over there to help.

Here are some of the threads from my restores.

unisaw: http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81970
bandsaw: http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=101761
craftsman drill press: http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=117633
J-170 Lathe: http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=92622

And my current restore which is still in process, a Wallace Mortiser: http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=119250


----------



## DonBroussard

@Minor-I visit owwm.org as well. I followed the links to your postings there, and that's some mighty fine work on display. I did note that your Uni did not have the floor pan-mine didn't either. I left it bare and without dust collection except for a broom and a dust pan. Thanks for the postings!


----------



## Minorhero

The floor pans are really easy to fabricate, just cut out a piece of tin the appropriate size. But I saw no reason to have one. The saw is on a mobile base, every so often I just open the dust door and vacuum it out. When I need to move it around any bits of dust in the corners gets left behind.

Thank you all for the kind comments!


----------



## superdav721

.


----------



## superdav721

.


----------



## superdav721

.


----------



## superdav721

.


----------



## superdav721

.


----------



## bandit571

I have plenty of time, not much money, and nothing to rehab.

Was bidding on a Bluegrass #7, someone wanted that rusty mess more than i did. Hope they have fun…


----------



## superdav721

.


----------



## Momcanfixit

Hmmmmm - sorry I missed whatever you're sorry for. Those are usually the most entertaining.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I bought this no5 from LJ WayneC. It's a gift for one of my best friends. It's very fitting because it's a type 13….my fav of all the baileys. 
Before:









After:

















-
I didn't get too crazy on the restore. Just a good cleaning, evaporust, and wire wheel on the base. One the rosewood, I just cleaned it and gave it some paste wax. I've been trying to keep more of the patina on these old guys. 
Thanks a lot Wayne. It's a sharp plane. I'm sure he'll like it. Good thing I already have a couple of these….or I wouldn't want to let it go..lol.


----------



## BinghamtonEd

Nice job, Red, I like the simple approach. Your friend will love it.


----------



## steve_in_ohio

looks great, your friend will love it


----------



## WayneC

Well done Red. Just the way I like them done.


----------



## Momcanfixit

Looks great.


----------



## planepassion

BRK, you shouldn't have! I will look for it in the post.

A good cleaning was all it needed. And the patina really adds to the allure of the tool. I'm sure your friend will love it.

BTW, when you sharpened the iron, did you put a camber on it?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Thanks guys. As a side, whenever I soak stuff in evaporust, paint spatters tend to soften and wipe off as well. That's nice.

I sharpened this iron pretty straight Brad. But I'm going to do as Wayne suggested and give him 2nd iron with a camber on it. He intends to clean up some reclaimed lumber with it….among other things. I'm totally trying to get my buddy bit by the sweetheart bug;-) Partly because it's fun. Partly because he is a DINK (double income, no kids). He and his wife do a lot of antique shopping as it is. He could have a lot of fun if he got into old tools.

Forgot to mention, I flattened and lapped the sole to 2000 grit…..LOL. That's for Smitty.


----------



## Slyy

Strong work Rojo, dang decent job you did there. The friend is gonna quite enjoy his new Jack-Plane!!!


----------



## lysdexic

That does look good Rojo.


----------



## Pezking7p

I just soaked a plane in evaporust and the paint came right off, too, Red. If only it also removed pitting…


----------



## lysdexic

Is there a lot of pitting Dan?


----------



## Pezking7p

Only on the 5. The 7 is in great shape. The pitting is no biggie, just a pain to sand. The 5 is a few hours worth of work away from a paint job, then she's all set. Hope to be done by end of next week.


----------



## Slyy

Yeah Dan, I always hate to see that happen. You hope there's no rust hiding under the japaning, good or bad the evaporust finds it…...


----------



## summerfi

This jointer in listed on Craigslist in my town. I already have a jointer (Taiwan made) but this should be better quality if it is in good shape, and it seems like a good price. Would parts be available for this (blade guard, maybe bearings)? Any opinions/advice? After seeing the ole' arn restorations here recently, I just gotta ask.

http://missoula.craigslist.org/tls/4383024312.html


----------



## donwilwol

I'd be all over that w-t Bob. There are some reference links for walker turner in my bandsaw restoration blog.

http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/31577


----------



## Minorhero

summerfi, that is a walker turner jointer made for craftsman. As such there will be no new parts available from normal suppliers. You can probably find quite a few parts for it on ebay as both vintage craftsman jointer parts and walker turner parts, but it would require some hunting. Hope that helps.


----------



## summerfi

I'm having second thoughts due to the missing guard. From what I've read, the guard is attached on this model by a cast iron bracket that is subject to breaking. On pictures I've seen on the internet, the guard is often missing, even on restored machines. That tells me they must be nearly impossible to find.


----------



## shampeon

Bob: over on owwm, I was part of a group buy for reproduction guards for my old Craftsman jointer (not a WT, but a King Seeley) from Cattail foundry. Cattail is a Mennonite foundry, and they cast repro guards in aluminum for us for a pretty fair price (I think it was maybe $40). The point being that you might be able to get a new guard through other means, especially on owwm.

Bearings should be easy to find for that model, same with blades. The price is good, especially for a 1HP motor.


----------



## GMatheson

Here is the *before* my Stanley 140 I picked up a while ago.





































So far I've just given it a good going over with a wire wheel and soaking the body in some paint thinner to remove the paint from a previous restore.

Should be back together sometime tomorrow hopefully.


----------



## WayneC

Looking forward to seeing how she comes out.


----------



## johnstoneb

I picked this 12 1/2 scraper plane up off the bay a little bit ago. I got it for less than my max which was well under what they had been going for.









After a bath in Krud Kutter and some new paint (the old japaning was 100% gone.) A little brass cleaner it doesn't look to bad.









The old wooden sole had been replaced and was worn out again. I had a scrap of walnut made a new one and ordered a new blade.









All I need now is to sharpen it and put it to work.


----------



## Slyy

Good job Bruce, she looks great.


----------



## GMatheson

As promised here is the 140 all cleaned up and put back together.

After stripping off the paint I gave it an evapobath. There wasn't a lot of japanning left so I gave it a quick shot of gloss black enamel, polished it up and reassembled. Just need to sharpen the blade an it's ready for action.


----------



## Handtooler

Really nice! I'd certainly like to find an old one for restore.


----------



## WayneC

Very nice Greg.


----------



## steve_in_ohio

that is very nice


----------



## Pezking7p

Very nice restores. I looked for a 140 for a while but I passed because they were all left handed versions. I actually thought they didn't make a right handed version. Now I'm back on the hunt!


----------



## bandit571

Try this if the photos aren't too fuzzy









The before of a Victor #1104









The after shot. just an old #4 by stanley…


----------



## WayneC

Very nice Bandit.


----------



## TerryDowning

Nice work bandito


----------



## DocBailey

Dan said:
"I actually thought they didn't make a right handed version."

As far as I know, they don't-there is only one version of this plane


----------



## Pezking7p

Doc, I came back and looked at the pic again, then Realized my mistake. I was looking for the rabbet side of the plane to determine which side it was on, but I forgot that one side is removable! Seems odd that they only made a left handed version.


----------



## DocBailey

Dan,

Not sure I understand why you're calling it a "left handed version."

I imagine what you're really talking about is having two different models, so that you could choose the correct one to use given the grain direction that you encounter.


----------



## PeteHotard

Just got done with this Type 15 Stanley #7. Got it at a great price from a guy on Sawmill Creek. This was my first total overhaul. Repainted the japanning with engine enamel. Learned a lot from this thread. Working on a type 17 #5 right now. Anyone know a good paint to match the orange background on the lever cap?

Before:

















After:


----------



## steve_in_ohio

very nice Pete


----------



## Pezking7p

Nice work Pete. Did you completely sand down the tote and knob?

Doc, I only mean that I think the 140 would be awkward to use for a right handed person because of the side which opens up for rabbetting.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Dan, on the restore your doing, are you sure it's pitting and not just casting flaws. I've been fooled that way before.


----------



## Pezking7p

I'm not certain, but it doesn't look like the surface of my other planes. Ill sand them out as best I can anyway.. It's not deep so it won't take terribly long.

Need to stuff wedding invitations and then it's time to do some restorations. I have pretty much all day until 3:30.


----------



## racerglen

From last Friday's hunting, before…








A 30-30..30" #30 brass bound Stanley Adjustable level


















Walters book says it's cherry body, under the brass name plate/level protector is an adjustment screw to tune the level, I guess under the other two as well but didn't risk the screws on them.
after..








A gentle scrape down, very light sand, washup with diluted Murphy's followed by BLO and a coat of well rubbed wax.








The brass got some AutoSol, I tried to not make it all shiney, trying to keep the old patina as much as possible but did get the Sweethart plate a bit too much, it'd needed a wee tap with ny brass hammer to flaten part of it.








Cost about $15 (about because got a 5 1/2 Record plane as part of the overall deal)
Oh, and no adjustment needed on any of the vials, all true as found !


----------



## PeteHotard

Yes Dan, I started with 80 grit and worked up to 600. Knob was easy on the drill the tote took a bit longer. Finished with a few coats of BLO and wax


----------



## Slyy

Pete nice resto on that Stanley No 7 hard to beat a good looking huge hunk-o-iron lying on the benchtop! And welcome to LJ's as well!

Glen that level came out looking great. Did nice job on keeping a workable amount of patina on the brass as well!


----------



## lateralus819

I need to find a really sweet old level. They look so nice! Did stanley ever make any out of rosewood?


----------



## bandit571

I guess I had better hide mine now, too many out there looking for a level.









I think it might be safe here???


----------



## upchuck

lateralus-
Yes. If you consider 9" torpedo levels. A couple of years ago on a hot summer day many of the vendors at our local swap meet were packing up for the day. One fellow was struggling with some large piece of machinery and I helped him load it up into his van. Then I did a quick look through what he still had left unpacked. I found an old oilstone in rough shape and he just gave it to me. Since then he's always given me great deals on whatever catches my eye. I saw this #260 level one day and he sold it to me for a buck. I had intended to cut it up and use the rosewood for tote repairs. But it is cleaning up rather nicely and it's a keeper for me.


----------



## lateralus819

Sweet! I dont usually find levels, or anything great locally unless its out our local flea market.

I've become good friends with one vendor, i usually spend at least $200 with him so he always always works with me on price.


----------



## upchuck

lateralus-
Swap Meet=Flea Market in Arizona lingo. This guy and I are not friends. Not in the sense that we know each others names or where we live or anything else about each other. He sells stuff. I buy some of his stuff. But that 30 seconds of kindness on my part has been repaid multiple times. We are not friends but we're friendly. I don't think we've exchanged two full sentences at one time. I'm sure that I've never paid $5 to him for any of his varied wares. I guess that I'm just another familiar face in the crowd to him.
I'm always on the hunt for pieces of rosewood. I have so little of it that I use what I have miserly. I have used as many as 8 tiny splinters to repair a plane knob that had chips missing from it's base. I have used the broken stock from bevel gauges/squares, the handles from pitted knives, the random solo pad from a brace ( the rest of that tool was MIA), and whatever other pieces I can find. I'm glad that I stopped myself before I chewed up that level for repair work.


----------



## Tim457

Wow that turned out great Glen. I have a couple I picked up cheap and haven't gotten to. Only one has intact vials, so maybe I'll practice on one and then go to the other. Now I'm motivated after seeing your results.


----------



## JayT

My latest. Picked up this Atkins skew back 9ppi rip saw on Wednesday.




























It was worn, but straight, so many of the scars and dings still remain, I just freshened it up and got it ready to use again. After a bit of clean up:


----------



## Handtooler

Nice! Enjoy using it.


----------



## GMatheson

Got the blade all sharpened on the 140. Had to adjust the skew angle a few degrees and put a 25deg bevel on it. Can take see thru shavings and works great on rabbets. I think everyone needs one of these planes.


----------



## racerglen

Lat, more common was mahogany for the levels, got three that are that, this is the 1st Cherry bomb, quite happy with the results.

Greg, love that 140, nicely done..wishing I hadn't passed on one at the local antiques thing here even tho I've got the Lee Valley/Veritas one ;-) It was flawed though, had one incorrect screw….snicker..


----------



## donwilwol

I bought a Stanley #0 for $5 last outing. I thought it was mahogany as well, but its cherry. Its missing a vial, so I may have to replace it. I figured for $5 the wood was worth it. It a SW so I guess it'll need to be restored!

Greg, that's a killer #140!


----------



## racerglen

Don, I need to do some dating, there was a point when they went cherry, if yours is a SW as well, maybe that's the deviding line ? I've got a 30" #0 that's mahogany (think most of my ol' wood levels are 30 inchers, must have been a user thing ;-)


----------



## lateralus819

I've wanted a $140 for a while. Too high of a price so i opted for a lie nielsen rabbet block instead.

I'm itching to restore something..hmmm.


----------



## Handtooler

Don & Greg, Now I'm really confused. On eBay I see Sweet Heart Stanley Rule & level Co. No.0's in 24, 28 and 30 inch versions. Were zeros offered in several different lengths and woods? And during restores is it appropriate to replace the vials with new and maybe even chartreuse vials?


----------



## lateralus819

Jumped on Ebay to check out some levels. Found THIS!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-STANLEY-No-95-BRASS-BOUND-MAHOGANY-LEVEL-FULL-CARVED-EBONY-M-O-P-INLAYS-/121298232568?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c3df024f8

Turns out hes a carver, and has among that a VERY nice transitional. wish i could afford em.


----------



## Handtooler

Is the offer on eBay really serious, $1,200.00.


----------



## lateralus819

Yes, its hand carved. A lot of time invested im sure.


----------



## JayT

Great job on the 140 GMat. I have one that needs tuned up and resharpened-the skew angle is off. Any advice on that?

Since the saw refurb materials were out, I decided to try and knock out another one today.

This one is a 20in panel rip saw, 9ppi, with a Phoenix medallion and etch from The Klostermeier Bros Hardware Co. of Atchison, Kans.

Before:




























After:





































Like the last one, it needs sharpened. I am slowly getting a grip on sharpening hand saws, so both of these will be put in the queue.


----------



## GMatheson

JayT I used the Veritas MK2 guide with the skew registration jig. Was pretty simple. Set the jig for the skew angle and the bevel I wanted and went to work on my DMTs. It took a while but was pretty fool proof.


----------



## Slyy

JayT those saws both turned out great. I'd love to find a bass medallion/screw Atkins skew back, most I find are the more contemporary post war variety.

I recently found a No 0 ruler with the fancier center vial design much like this 








For $30, any idas on if that's a decent price and perhaps the age on it? Haven't really found good sources for ruler typing/age information.


----------



## racerglen

Think you got a deal at 30 Jake,
By Walters book the zeros were made 1859 to 1974, 24 to 30" long, cherry body, lacquered finish.
His pricing (book was published in1996) shows 5 to 50 dollars, but it dosen't show that type of brass works.
I have two of them, both have just the flat plate over the vials.


----------



## DonBroussard

@Slyy-Agree with Glen. I woulda dropped $30 clams on that without too much thought. I really like the brass work on the vials.


----------



## Bundoman

I posted the before shots of this plane a few weeks ago. Finally had time and semi-fit weather to do something in the shop on this plane without undue suffering and my E tank actually staying liquid!

Anyway…I like this little 'un! The curls came from this plane on hard maple after a little work with the Worksharp 3000. This one is in my keeper cabinet.

Brent


----------



## DonBroussard

Inspired by other posted hand saw restorations, I tackled a couple of hand saws this weekend.

BEFORE. Small panel saw with 20" nibbed plate. No etch, but had H. Disston & Sons, Philada medallion. Lamb's tongue tote. Filed (and stamped) 8ppi rip.










AFTER: Cleaned up plate with Simple Green and Scotchbrite green pad. Once I verified that there was no etch. I switched to the RO sander with 60, 120 and 220 grits and finished up with 800 on a sanding block. I just cleaned the tote but haven't sanded and refinished it yet. Still needs to be sharpened. The tote has a nice shape and the saw has a good hangle (hang + angle).




























Second Saw BEFORE: Another Disston sans tote with D-8 etch. Stamped 9 ppi and filed rip.










AFTER: Hand sanded the plate with Simple Green and gray and green Scotchbrite pads. I did try to remark the etch with a Sharpie followed by a sanding block. It looks like the etch is just not deep enough to retain the inking.



















Anybody has a D-8 tote, medallion and nuts to sell? I'd like to sharpen this one and put it back in service.


----------



## BinghamtonEd

JayT, mind if I ask how you got that brass button looking so good?


----------



## JayT

Ed, vinegar soak followed by a variable speed rotary tool with a brass cup brush on a slow speed setting.

DonB, saw looks good. I had pretty good luck with using cold blue to bring out the etches-several of which were not as deep as yours appears to be. Someone in the hand saw thread mentioned it not that long ago and it worked well. Blue the whole area, then use a sanding block with 400 or 600 grit paper to sand the flat and leave the blueing in the etch. Since it is actually causing a chemical reaction in the metal it won't come off like the ink from Sharpie, which just sits on top of the metal.


----------



## DonBroussard

@JayT-Your saw rehabs pushed me to attack mine in the queue-strong efforts there, Jay. Thanks for sharing your experience with cold blue. Another LJ had suggested gun bluing to re-ink the etch. With the Sharpie test having failed, bluing is my next step.


----------



## Tim457

Nice Don. Is that Disston panel going to be a user for you? I have one with a missing top horn like that and I definitely miss it when using it but I haven't gotten up the courage to try replacing one yet. I like hangle.


----------



## DonBroussard

@Tim-It's my intention for it to be a user. Like you, I am a little skeered of cutting on a vintage tote. Matching wood type and color would be tricky, but others have done so before us with courage, and good results.


----------



## superdav721

Guys the planes and saws are looking wonderful.
I like what yall are doing with the levels to.
I might have to start looking for one.
Here is a knife a feller at work gave me.


----------



## Slyy

Don, those two saws came out great. If try to do more the etch, especially JayT's bluing suggestion, I'd love to see how it turns out!!!


----------



## Bundoman

I posted a before picture of this one awhile back and thought I would follow up with some better pictures. This is an Ohio Tool 4 1/2 that looked really crusty but cleaned up pretty well in the e-tank last weekend. I have a little finish work to do on the wood and may repaint this one but decided to go ahead and post the pictures as I had the laptop up and going tonight. The Ohio tool imprint is a little light on this plane. I have not found much information to type or date this plane.


----------



## DonBroussard

@Slyy-Thanks for the kind words. I'm actually online now looking for a local source for the cold blue JayT posted-no luck so far. I'll be sure to post pics of the cold blue attempt at bringing the etch back.

@bundo-That resto on the Stanley block plane came out suhweet! I don't know how I missed it when you first posted it. That Ohio 4-½ shows some promise too.

@Dave-Drawknife is back on the job. Your video documentaries never disappoint either. BTW, whatcha making-a mallet?


----------



## ShaneA

Wow, I hadn't checked in on this thread in a while. Marvelous and inspiring stuff, as usual. I will go captain obvious and say Minorhero's restores are beautifully done. Lots of eye candy on the planes, saws, and levels too. Great stuff.


----------



## superdav721

Don that was just a timber that was at hand for testing.
The tool was free and it was a coworkers fathers. He had just past so I thought it did the old tool a bit of justice. 
Thank you for the kind words.


----------



## DonBroussard

@Dave-You certainly did honor your coworker's father by restoring his drawknife. I figured that timber was for showing the tool at work again.


----------



## summerfi

Don - Amazon has the cold gun blue. You should also be able to pick it up at Walmart or any store that carries hunting gear.


----------



## DonBroussard

Thanks, Bob. I'll check that out. I realized only today that bluing is an acid treatment that blackens the metal. Silly me-I thought it was like ink. I am more optimistic about restoring the etch now, knowing that it's not just another inking attempt.


----------



## JayT

Yep, most stores that carry any type of hunting/gun stuff will have it, either by itself or in a kit. Look for it with the gun cleaning supplies.


----------



## superdav721

You can get browning as well as bluing to.


----------



## ChipBreaker

My first.. This mornings project cleaning. Suggestions welcome.


----------



## JeffHeath

Here's a couple of many I've done

1940's Yates American #1 24" jointer

before










after










1964 Powermatic 72 tablesaw with full cast iron extension

before










after



















1985 Powermatic 66

before










after










Up next is my 1923 Oliver 91D mortiser


----------



## ChipBreaker

Wow! Those are PURRDY Jeff!


----------



## chrisstef

Whoa!  Aircraft carrier alert. Sick work Jeff and an Oliver mortiser on deck. Hummina.

Chip - talk dirty to me. Whos the maker on that saw?


----------



## superdav721

Holy machinery!


----------



## JayT

That's some iron, Jeff! Awesome job.

(if that PM 66 disappears sometime in the near future, it is NOT in my shop-look anywhere else)


----------



## chrisstef

reviving lost posts


----------



## ChipBreaker

chrisstef- shes a disston d-95. I rubbed her nice and slow with mineral spirits and wet sanded and buffed her handle.. So dirty… OH so dirty


----------



## chrisstef

Lol. Thank you sir.


----------



## racerglen

With the gun bluing, if you just can't find it anywhere, Lee Valley just added it to their catalogue.


----------



## ChipBreaker

racerglen- I have gun bluing but I tried it on another saw and it came out funny. Do I have to just line it with a small paint brush?


----------



## JayT

CB, here is the article that Tim posted on the Saws thread a little while ago

http://www.wkfinetools.com/trestore/saw/etch-Sturgeon/etch-Sturgeon.asp

In the article, he is using brass darkening solution, but the exact same principles apply using gun blue. I apply the blue with a q-tip for best results.


----------



## ksSlim

Chip, clean the area you want to blue extremely well to rid AN oil residue.
Gun blue is a mild acid. Brunells has an online tutorial.


----------



## 7Footer

Holy hell, I didn't even know that 24" jointers existed, talk about heft and hubris, and that PM 66, wow. Fantastic work Jeff.


----------



## DonBroussard

@Jeff-I wonder how long it'll take for the Navy to figure out that one of their aircraft carriers is missing . . . Amazing work going on in your shop there, Jeff! Looking forward to see that Oliver mortiser join the other restores you posted.


----------



## summerfi

Those are some beautiful machines. What does one do with a 24" jointer? If you're not building an ark, that is.


----------



## Tim457

What do you do with a 24" jointer? If I had one I'd point and laugh at everyone else's puny iron and say that's not a jointah, this is a jointah.

Seriously though that would have to be for some very large scale work to justify its cost when new. Once you have it, I bet you'd find uses for it. Run a whole workbench slab over my jointer? Sure why not, can't everyone?


----------



## theoldfart

I could have used that joiner this week. :0)


----------



## Pezking7p

Wow that jointer is insane! Nice nice work.

My first plane rehab. Went better than expected.


----------



## DocBailey

that slab is lookin' good!


----------



## lateralus819

Pez, that #5 looks killer! Did you paint the body or was the japanning still good?

I received my Sargent #722 auto-set. Really cool plane, don't quite understand the tilting knob on it though. Anyone familiar with these?


----------



## Slyy

Kev just ran in here to gloat!

Chip that's a cool d-95, not seen one in the flesh. It's indestructible Disstonite, what more could you want?!?

Jeff those are freakin awesome! 24" jointer, holy guacamole!!!!!


----------



## lateralus819

Everytime i see the name Kevin i wonder how people know my name. Doh. lol


----------



## theoldfart

We're kinda like Smith at this point.


----------



## lysdexic

Here are some more before pics of Pez's #5


----------



## lateralus819

That's a HUGE difference!


----------



## DonBroussard

@pez-A big WOW on that rehab. Looks like it just came off the shelf and out of the box. Very nice.


----------



## Pezking7p

Lol my photography skills are terrible. Thanks for the pics and the plane, lys. She cuts like a dream and I haven't even tuned her yet.

Yah Lat, I had to do a full paint job. I was surprised at how easy the painting was.


----------



## lateralus819

Yeah the painting is easy, my least favorite part though. I've had it haze over a couple times. Thats a real bummer.


----------



## lysdexic

Dan - was most the pitting on the iron and chip breaker? How did you refurb the totes? How did the iron logo turn out? The few times that I held the plane the tote seemed larger than most. It was very comfortable.


----------



## Pezking7p

The chip breaker and iron were and are quite pitted. I sanded the logo down so the words are plainly visible, but there's still pitting around it. The sole has some pitting. None of the pitting is a big deal, this is purely a user.

The tote and knob I thought I could just wash, but that didn't work. So I lightly sanded all over with 400 grit, then I wiped with water to check for dull spots. If it was dull, I sanded it until it was bright. Then BLO. I think I might shellac them this weekend. Not sure what is traditional.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nice job on that Dan. I'm glad it worked out with you and Lys.

I've tried all kinds of stuff with totes. Ask 3 guys, you'll get 3 answers. I like paste wax the best.


----------



## lateralus819

Wax works wonders on rosewood. I picked this stuff up to try it out, and man it works Awesome! Great feel to it.

I usually chuck the knobs into a drill press and sand up to 600, then use this stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Howard-FW0016-Feed-N-Wax-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B001BKQYGW


----------



## Slyy

That thing turned out great! Yeah Red's right more or less Dan!
I'm a big fan of danish oil + paste wax myself. Not really a big fan of the shiny shellac (even thought it's pretty standard fare on the Stanley's and MF's).


----------



## lateralus819

Pez did you try a grinder with a wire wheel for the bare cast parts and blade?


----------



## woodchuckerNJ

Hey Jeff, that's great work. I was jealous of the Yates until I saw the 2 PM's..

Now I'm really jealous…
You done good…

Fantastic restores.


----------



## Pezking7p

I bought a wire wheel that goes in my drill. That's all that was in the budget for this round.

I've got some wax that I think I'll try. Does it matter what kind of wax? I've just got some minwax stuff.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Mixwax works fine. Let it haze and buff it off.


----------



## Slyy

^word to the wise: don't let the paste wax sit on there while you go back in the house and forget about it…........


----------



## Pezking7p

Why what happens?


----------



## JayT

Pez, awesome resurrection on the plane!

Why what happens?

Let's just say removing day old wax is not a trivial process. DAMHIK


----------



## JayT

Sargent #722 auto-set. Really cool plane, don't quite understand the tilting knob on it though. Anyone familiar with these?

Lat, that would be a question for the Master of the Force, DonW. He has several auto-sets.


----------



## terryR

Strong work here lately. Gotta love the massive vintage power tools!

Lat, those tilting knobs on the long Auto-Sets were designed to make it easier to handle while jointing. IMO, it's a bogus design. I've never wanted my stanley no.7 to have a tilting knob. But, that's my opinion…

BTW, I have all the Auto-Sets except the 712…ready for it now…so, if yous guys see one on kneeBay, just ignore it.


----------



## Tim457

Let's just say removing day old wax is not a trivial process. DAMHIK

I haven't left paste wax on too long but supposedly just wiping on some new wax will have enough of the solvent in it to soften the dried on wax and allow you to buff it off. Does it not work?


----------



## lateralus819

Ah, okay thanks Terry! I'll keep my eye's peeled. It's in great shape, can't wait to restore it! Looks like over 90 % japanning. Only issue is the horn on the top of the tote is gone.


----------



## JayT

Tim, that would be a DOH! moment. It probably works just fine, but I didn't think about doing that. I ended up just removing all the wax with mineral spirits and reapplying-wasn't difficult, just a PITA. Luckily it was just on a single plane tote.


----------



## lateralus819

Speaking of wax- On a non tool related note. When i was 15 i worked with my dad for this guy who owned a mobile home dealership. One day we didn't have much to do, so he asked me if i would wax his truck. I said sure why not. The truck just so happened to be this gorgeous, BRAND NEW white 2005 Dodge ram 2500 duelly. Me in my infinite wisdom thought it'd be a GREAT idea to apply the BRIGHT GREEN turtle wax to one whole side to save time. Mind you, it was probably 90 degrees, and the truck was facing the sun. Take a guess how long it took me to get it off? I was ********************ting bricks for a few hours at least.


----------



## donwilwol

I get busy at work and am behind 60 some post. A 24" jointer? Now that's a restore!!

Some good stuff happening here!!

carry one !!


----------



## lateralus819

Sounds like the new job is going well Don, take it easy.


----------



## jordanp

I want a Sargent 5206 like really bad now for some reason..


----------



## Mosquito

Jordan, I've got the Fulton equivalent of a 5206 as well. It seems to work alright, for a cheapy


----------



## jordanp

Wow that's a thin shaving.. what is the Fulton model # equivalent?


----------



## Mosquito

I don't remember, but I can take a look when I get home. I'm not sure it's even got a model # on it anywhere. I'm sure it was made by sargent, as it's pretty much identical, except the blade is stamped Fulton


----------



## donwilwol

I believe typically the Fulton model numbers followed the Sargent #'s.


----------



## john2005

Question for those of you who use citric acid on rust. What is the preferred method here. I have some evapo rust that is about used up but the wife just handed me a pound of citric acid. Now I just have to figure out what to do with it.

And a 24" jointer, are you friggen kidding me? Where does one get one? What does one do with one? Is it really as cool as it sounds. You can't leave us with the drive by on this one, that isn't nice….
What's you're dust collector look like?


----------



## jordanp

Maybe being a mostly hand tool guy leaves me a bit nieve but why would you ever need a 24" jointer?

Aren't you just jointing the edge of the board? Isn't the face of the board run through one of your fancy electric planers?


----------



## lateralus819

Planer wont take out twist and cup without a sled.


----------



## donwilwol

John, just add same citric to some water. A couple spoonfuls is good. Add a rusty plane. I have in my mind warm water works better, but that might just be me. Let it sit till the rust is loose then brush it off.

use it just like evaporust but it takes a little longer I think. Over night usually does it. Just like evaporust, I use it till it stops working but a mix doesn't last as long. Once it stops working throw it out. Adding more acid doesn't seem to work as well.


----------



## lateralus819

Doesn't vinegar work well too, Don?


----------



## upchuck

Doesn't vinegar work well too, Don?
If I can barge in…Yes vinegar works…I'm wondering about the "well" part. I've noticed pitting on some tools I've pulled out of a vinegar bath soak. I'm still looking for the ideal solution for removing rust. Ideal = cheap, ease of use, maximum rust removal, minimum harm to steel surfaces, safe for disposal, are the main things. I'm not positive that the type of acid in vinegar attacks only rust. Citric acid is on my list of next thing to try. And I'll also try urine at some point just to satisfy my curiosity.


----------



## lateralus819

Evapo-rust works great. That's what i typically use, i was just curious about vinegar.


----------



## Airframer

I have used vinegar and it works but it loves to flash rust really bad. I love evaporust. The best part about that stuff is.. once it is done removing rust from the part it simply stops working. I left 3 planes in the E bath for 4 months once (long story) and no harm done! The rust was gone and that was all.


----------



## shampeon

Citric acid is far cheaper than anything else you can buy, including vinegar. Maybe the best part is that you can buy enough for your lifetime and it takes up no more space than a gallon ziplock.


----------



## donwilwol

I've used vinegar, and some brands work better than others. I agree with Ian. I'm pretty much sold on the citric acid.


----------



## lateralus819

Are there advantages over evapo rust? Or is it just a cost thing?


----------



## donwilwol

Cost and storage. Along with quantity. If I have a larger piece or multiple planes, I just need a bigger bucket, not multiple gallons to purchase. For instance I bought a bunch of long steel clamps. I was only worried about the screw end, but I still needed a 5 Gallon bucket to cover. That would have been over $100 and a trip to find more evapo rust.


----------



## Pezking7p

Worked on a #7 today. I wasn't planning on doing a whole lot to it, but I kind of went overboard. It needs to have the sole lapped, though, the front and back of the mouth don't line up and it "bumps" when the mouth goes over the end of the board. I'm not up to lapping that behemoth today!

Before:



























Here she is ready for paint: How do you guys mask off when you're painting?









After:


----------



## john2005

Thanks all for the feedback on the citric acid. That was my hope was to do like a 5gallon bucket so longer items would fit. Does it seem to attack the japanning or is it gentle like evapo is? Thanks again


----------



## donwilwol

I don't know what would happen if you did the Airframer and left it for 4 months, but typically it'll only lift Japanning if there is rust under it.


----------



## summerfi

I've been using phosphoric acid to kill rust - the same stuff car restorers use. I've also used naval jelly, which I think is also based on phosphoric acid. Yesterday I used evaporust for the first time on a couple of backsaws, and I like how it performed. The other day I even tried the stuff pictured below, just for kicks. It is 20% hydrochloric acid, and let me tell you, it kills rust in a hurry. I don't think you'd want to leave it on too long or it might eat all the way through your tool. No matter what I've used, the biggest headache I've encountered is trying to get the black gunk out of the bottom of pits. Anybody found a solution for that, short of sandblasting?


----------



## DocBailey

John

something like this will let you do up to a No 8 jointer and use a lot less citric acid (or whatever you're using)
Make sure it is the type where you can punch out the drain holes if you want to use them (we obviously don't)


----------



## john2005

Good thinking, thanks for the tip Doc!


----------



## donwilwol

They also have black plastic boxes like the one Doc posted. That's what I use a lot.


----------



## bandit571

Waiting on a Stanley Block plane to show up, from DonW. Supposed to be a 18-1/4????

The Victor #1104 is all clean and shiny









And the back









Did not have to paint the base, but had a lot of work to do on the sole. Laid out the 100 grit belt, and got the sole flat









At least in the areas that count. Shavings went from just in the middle third, to almost the full width. Did dub the corners a bit.


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## donwilwol

Sorry Bandit, the 18 1/4???? is sitting right next to the 19 I got from Jordan. Between the new job being a bitch and getting my supply of firewood ready, shop time has been pretty limited.


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## BigRedKnothead

trying to get the black gunk out of the bottom of pits

Bob, I've had good luck just using a wire wheel.

John, a scrap piece of pvc pipe with an end cap glued on works too.


----------



## Airframer

I thought I had before pics of this guy but I guess I forgot to take some.

A SW #5. Lots of pitting on this guy but it cleaned up pretty nicely.




























I realized after taking this pic that I was planing against the grain… with no tear out! I must be doing something right in the sharpening world I guess lol.


----------



## Slyy

Dan you asked about masking off for painting, I use blue painters tape and a razor to cut it right to the edge on areas where it counts, like non-japanned frog contact points or around the mouth (do similar on breast drills and the like).

I think I really need to look into the citric acid thing, buying 3 gallon jugs of evaporust so far, almost as much as I've put into the actual tools I've restored!!!! (Though ER does work VERY well).

Bob, I've tried naval jelly but have never been very satisfied with the results, especially the necessity of having to apply it multiple times. Maybe mixing it in water might be a good way to use up what I have left? Problem with the HCl is it's for sure non-selective and pretty keen after more than just the rust, I'd be afraid to leave anything I it for terribly long.

Also nice restores there Dan, bandito and Eric. This all came out great!


----------



## Airframer

The thing with ER is.. you can reuse it quite a bit. I have been using the same 5 gals worth for nearly a year now and while it has darkened quite a bit it still does it's job. I'll have to look into the citric acid stuff though.. my curiosity is officially peaked..


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## BigRedKnothead

I filter and re-use evaporust until unitl it absolutely dosen't work as well. My tractor supply puts it on good sales every once in a while. They always sell out, so I just get a rain check for the sale price and they call me when it's in.


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## superdav721

*trying to get the black gunk out of the bottom of pits*
There is always soda blasting or walnut shells.
They dont do damage to the metal.


----------



## planepassion

Airframer, I don't like that citric acid eats the surface of the tool. With ER I get consistently good results. The only thing I don't like about it is having to wire-brush off the gray haze that forms on the surface of the metal. As for the pink Naval Gel, I only use it on rusted bolt threads anymore. for really nasty rust, it's more effective than ER in my opinion. It does take several applications, but I can do four in one hour using a wire brush in between.


----------



## Mosquito

I like using a brass wire brush, white vinegar and baking soda for my handplanes. It works very well. Requires a little more elbow grease than ER, but it's also cheaper and I don't have that gray haze that Brad mentions. Which I've gotten before, and I don't like it.


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## Slyy

If it fits, this also works very well for those pits (and in general):









Edit to add:
I use walnut and corncob 
This I use for the walnut (cheapest I can find). The corncob you can get cheap in bulk from sand blasting / oilfield suppliers.


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## BigRedKnothead

My Evaporust routine- when pull the parts out, I wipe them all off with a paper towel. Lay them all out on newspaper and spray them with wd40. Then I scrub with a mild, maroon scotch pad(except japanning). The wd40 prevents flash rust, the scotch pad removes the gray haze. A med or fine wire wheel takes care of the rest.


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## donwilwol

bullet tumbler. Who would have thunk. Not a bad idea!


----------



## JeffHeath

Maybe being a mostly hand tool guy leaves me a bit nieve but why would you ever need a 24" jointer?

Aren't you just jointing the edge of the board? Isn't the face of the board run through one of your fancy electric planers?

-Jordan - Rockwall TX - "Here's what im talking about: tweaked nuts:" - Stef

I'm a hand tool guy, too. In fact, I make wooden hand planes for sale. I also do a lot of work with large, wide slabs, frequently 17" to 22" wide, and sometimes wider. That jointer would flatten a wide slab in one pass, and I could take 1/4" off the face of a 18" slab in one pass. That's what it's for.

I no longer own that machine. I sold it to a guy who just had to have it. I'm presently looking for another one, but have a line on a 16" jointer that I'm going to look at this weekend. If I buy it, it will get the same treatment.

Thanks for all the comments.


----------



## lateralus819

Why would you sell it to someone who just has to have it then leave yourself without? Too good to pass up right lol?


----------



## JeffHeath

At the time, I had a 12" Yates American #1 jointer, and also a Poitras 8" jointer. I sold it because at the time, I was getting ready to move, and had about 40,000 lbs. of old woodworking and metalworking machines, and was trying to lighten the load. The 24"er was great when I needed it, but it was a luxury item, and also had a very high value $$$$ wise. Selling it made every machine in my shop free.

I will also confess that I restore OWWM's throughout the year for the past 4 years. I do this when I'm tired of making planes and need a change of scenery for a week or so. It helps keep things fresh in the shop. Some I keep, and some I sell for a good profit.


----------



## Slyy

Haha I'll take it as a win giving the Yoda a new idea! Almost finishing up on a few belly drills that I need to share soon!
Question for y'all: the frame of one of them was totally shot finish wise. After the dip in evaporust any remaining finish fell off so I just took it to the brass shell after. Needing a finish on it I just painted with DonW japaning substitute DupliColor engine enamel. The gear hub/wheel was dirty and missing some paint but is in fairly good condition considering it is 102 years old and the state it was in. Don't really want to take off and repaint parts that don't really need it. Think it'll be odd? What would you do?


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## lateralus819

#112. Bought this a month ago, just got into the shop to clean it. It was a pristine example IMO. Didn't fuss too much with it. Saneded the tote and knob up to 800, then beeswax. Polished the brass, and wire brushed the sides. Also put a hock blade in it from my #12 that I'm selling. Overall it looks beautiful! Enjoy. Next up is a Sargent #410 that should be fun, waiting on a frog to arrive.


----------



## Handtooler

Do the #12's and 112's use a straight flat scraper blade burred or a bevel sharpened blade akin to the #80's? That Lady is certainly a beauty. Guess you also stole it for the gloat?


----------



## Slyy

Nice lat, a 112 is on my short list!


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## lateralus819

Yes, they use the same type of blade. This hock was a batch to get in. Wouldn't fit on one side. Had to hit the top with a hammer. Luckily didn't break anything. I think I paid $130 shipped, which I think is a good deal. Not a steal, but it's quite under normal price. I will like this more than my #12. Much more ergonomic. I have a #80 and #81 I'm going to sell too.


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## Slyy

Worked on this Millers Falls No. 85. Pretty cool little beast with the quick change speed lever. Had to repaint the frame it was left bare after a dip in evaporust. May or may not touch up the breast plates, still deciding. The drive gear had most of the original paint left so i think I'll keep that for originality. All in all a cool little piece that I hope I. An put to work soon!
Before 

















And some after


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## theoldfart

Good restore Jake. How 'bout some pics on changing the speed?


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## donwilwol

Nice job on the Millers falls.


----------



## bandit571

Two new refurb projects from today's Rust Hunt









The chisel might be a tad rusty, but the saw has ZERO rust, and NO pitting. Tote is crack-free, too









There is even a readable etch on this 8 point saw. Medallion is a Disston USA. Saw nuts look like brass, though.

Spent about $6 + Sales Tax….


----------



## jordanp

My newest screw driver might almost be worthy of smitty's cabinet shop, if I do say so myself.. well almost..


----------



## TerryDowning

Millers Falls No. 10 Bought off the bay a few weeks ago.
Before Very Grimy with some black stuff all over it.










Red Paint splattered on the body and handle which needed a new horn.









Also missing a lateral adjuster. Here it is sitting next to my No. 9









It's a Type 3 or late type 2
It does have the brass adjuster and brass cylinder nuts for holding the knob and handle (typical of a type 2) but also the ogee style handle (typical of the Type 3) So I'm calling it an early type 3 or late type 2.

The sole needs some work as well but not too bad









Some rust on the blade and cap iron but manageable.









Gunk and rust around the frog bed but cleanable and the Japaning/Enamel is about 90-95%. Did MF use Japaning or did they use enamel?









After some cleaning and sharpening.
Something corrosive was spilled on the side of the body leaving some nasty pits. But the stamping is now readable.









Handle repaired and all cleaned up. Still no lateral adjuster but the pin is there, so I just need to find a lateral adjuster and peen it in place.









Sole after some flattening and cleaning. I may need to do some more here. The blade still needs some work as well. It's not square yet, and I'm having a hard time getting full width shavings. The blade is not square across and that may be the issue.

















The pitting on the side bothers me a little bit and I may put more work into that.

It's no show pony, but it will be a good user.


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## lateralus819

Looks good! Lateral adjusters aren't too bad to replace, so long as there is sufficient length of the Pin.


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## Slyy

TD, that millers falls looks pretty darn nice now! I'm with on the looks of those things, the lever cap design is cool and it seems like you don't see quite as many being hoarded like the Stanley's are. Have a couple MF block planes and No 4, 5, and 6 equivalents. I like the look and feel of 'em.


----------



## lateralus819

Here we go! Another 4 1/2. Sargent #410 VBM. Picked this one up for a steal at $40 shipped. Unfortunately it had a cracked frog, so $30 later i have a frog (Plus spare tote/knob bolts and nuts, a knob, a blade and breaker, and a lever cap)

Before. 



























After.





































Turned out nice! Had to repair the tote. Which i would rather do, but it's a pain sanding all that stuff!

Here's a few tips on fixing/sanding. A shooting board works great for trueing the end if the horn is snapped off.










Also, I'm not sure where to get them but you can probably fashion your own. See pic below.










There was one with my inlaws drill press. Mine isn't like that but the same idea. Mine allowes the whole disc to flap and move freely, it's just a bolt and washer that goes through the center of the disc, and screws into a shaft.

It's nice because you can press in with your fingers to get into curves and tight places.


----------



## Timbo

Nice one Terry. I guess I will make this a "Millers Falls Monday".
A No. 9 smoother also found on fleebay.










After clean up, its darn near new. One of the frog screws bottomed out before it would tighten down on the frog so I'm thinking someone could not get it to work right and put it on the shelf, works great now.


----------



## TerryDowning

If you like MF then by all means check out Old Tool Heaven


----------



## lateralus819

Tim nice Job! Did the screw that was bottoming out, have it's washer? Also, what did you use on the lever cap? It's nice and shiny!


----------



## TerryDowning

What lat said…

That lever cap looks great

What to use n the lever cap?? My 10 is still not where I would like it to be but I don't want to destroy any plating either.


----------



## Timbo

@ Lateral, yes it had the washer and now one screw has two until I get a tap to chase the threads.

I use Blue magic metal polish cream on the lever cap.


----------



## planepassion

Tim, I'm a'liking your MF#9. Out of the thousands of planes Millers Falls made over the years I wonder how many had a frog screw that bottomed out. That manufacturing mishap worked in your favor because it kept the tool on the shelf for you to fix decades hence. Interestingly, my MFs #9 is in fantastic shape too. Could be because the cap iron was affixed backwards on the iron and the owner never figured it out


----------



## Slyy

Heck, let's continue the tradition. Been sitting on this in a partially complete state for a couple weeks. Got off work early today and had the time to finish it. A No 14c

















Tote was broken and had a Decent chunk missing.









Simple repair but lacked anything to fill the gap, has a little character now:


----------



## lateralus819

Looks like it's a type 1 Sly, nice!


----------



## shampeon

Actually, that's a type 4, I'm pretty sure. Type 1s have "Millers Falls" cast in the toe, and the thumbwheel is hollow.


----------



## lateralus819

Doh…You're right, but….For some reason i thought the solid adjuster was type 1…forgive me!


----------



## shampeon

No worries. I really like the goncalo on type 4s, especially, like the one above, when the red varnish has been removed.


----------



## lateralus819

Yep. I love those "filled" Adjusters. They look a lot better.


----------



## Slyy

Yeah Ian, I do prefer them sans 2mm thick red crap. I don't imagine I'd take it off one that didn't need it, but luckily for my preferences, the red stuff was pretty spotty on this one so off it came. The white painted number/letters on the back came off in the evapo rust, I wonder what they were for? Perhaps this belonged to a school at some point?

I do like the solid depth adjuster on these, the extra mass makes the adjustments feel more precise (and it's easier to clean!).


----------



## TerryDowning

I like the red handles on the type 4s.(Guess I'm weird like that.) Especially if the enamel is complete and the chrome on the lever cap is shiny. Lotta bling for a hand tool.

One day I'll have a 209 DeLuxe with the permaloid handles. (Can't justify the expense right now though)


----------



## donwilwol

What I don't like about the red is it is often covering up some absolutely gorgeous wood.


----------



## lateralus819

Speaking of "film" or "finishes" on handles. Whatever sargent uses, SUCKS. Took me over an hour to fix the horn and sand. Stanleys take minutes to refinish.


----------



## Slyy

Hmmmm…....









This caused some cursing. What say you about fixing it?
Used to be like this


----------



## donwilwol

Ouch Jake, that's going to be a tough one.


----------



## john2005

I think brazing would be the only thing for cast. Still won't be as strong but will be better. If you only did the underside, it wouldn't be too visible from the top. Looks tricky either way.


----------



## donwilwol

Its possible to weld cast, but you have to know how and have the right equipment. Brazing may work as well. I'd start looking for a parts drill though. I would say long term that would be the best bet.


----------



## lateralus819

Maybe if it will be a user, braze it, and make a scab to go over the bottom of brass. Could be decorative.


----------



## JayT

Personally, I'd probably make a replacement out of bloodwood and keep an eye out for a donor.


----------



## grfrazee

I wouldn't worry about the brazing being visible. The Japanese art of Kintsugi considers that the braze just becomes part of the tool's history. Just like a scar becomes part of yours.

Brazing this location would be better than brazing a plane body, for instance, since you're not counting on the two parts lining up exactly to work correctly.


----------



## Slyy

Thx for the tips. Yeah, I have no personal experience with welding, or brazing. If anything, the brazing will be the way I go. Guess the No 13a will have to be without its matching breast plate for a while.
I suspect there was some hidden damage here too, i had barely put any pressure on it as I was loosening it out by hand. Don't think (as manly as they) that my hands are that strong to break cast iron with my kung-fu grip.


----------



## DocBailey

I posted my refurbed giant miter box (and ridiculous saw) over on the MBOYD thread, but thought I'd put it up here too (I can't be alone in my insatiable desire to gaze at pictures of vintage tools)
Bear in mind that I am of the minimalist, conservator school of tool restoration.

BEFORE









AFTER


----------



## lateralus819

Very nice doc. I've to look into a hand saw miter box. I do like my powered, but it is noisey. Can some do compound angles?


----------



## DocBailey

The only way you're gonna get compound angles out of one of these is to prop the work piece up at the appropriate angle-when the box is set up correctly, the saw cut will always be perpendicular to the table.


----------



## Slyy

That stanley came out nice Doc.


----------



## DocBailey

Thanks Slyy


----------



## bandit571

PIP of a Disston D-7 Lightweight saw, the before









A test drive









and the clean up









The Medallion is a steel one, but









the rest of the hardware is brass.









Just an 8. With boo-coo set to them teeth. Might have to stone them back a bit. Saw is from about 1953, or so. 
A saw the same age as me, imagine that…


----------



## lateralus819

Bunch of restores coming my way woohoo. Been anxious to fix some more planes up.


----------



## Handtooler

That's certainly a super cache to start on again.


----------



## Slyy

Nice group photo there Lat! The middle two 7's or 8's?

Man I gotta find me a wild No 8 to work on! Did pick up a No 7 equivalent that I think is a Sharpleigh (has the logo on the blade at least), as big as it is in my hand, hard to imagine how those 8's are!


----------



## theoldfart

Lat, which compass did you get?


----------



## lateralus819

I believe it's a 113 why? Needs a handle.


----------



## theoldfart

I've been trolling for one since I tried one at my furniture classes. Anxious to see what you think.


----------



## lateralus819

Ill send you a PM.


----------



## CFrye

Slyy, I saw a #8 in a Jenks flea market last weekend. Had a chipped mouth, though. :-(


----------



## donwilwol

Story is here.


----------



## Timbo

Nice save Don!

Stanley No. 31 transitional before



















After with added fence


----------



## lateralus819

Having seen that fix first hand Don, Thats incredible in the before. He did do a nice job. That plane works wonderfully.


----------



## Deycart

-Don. The plastic stuff may be Bakelite or it could be Celluloid. Both are a fairly early form of plastic.

Just a guess


----------



## lateralus819

Well i received my lot of planes today. I can't complain about the product. I got 2 #7 stanleys, a type 10 and a type 15 or later. Both great shape. A #5 type 15 or later, with a huge chunk out of the side which is for parts. A #113 compass in great shape, sans tote. A cheap #5 not even sure of the brand, i might restore it for the fun of it. A #78 rabbet without the fence. And a small block plane, not sure of maker. All in all not bad for $100. One #7 is like new already, the japanning was pretty good so i just cleaned all the parts and flattened the sides and sole. The other is drying as we speak.


----------



## bandit571

Picked this little plane up last labour Day. Finally got around to a thorough clean up. Even the iron was given a tune up. prepping it for sale on the bay. Pieces









got a clean up and a shine. Dang counter light gives thing a brassy glow. Another look









And a few of it back together









Although it has GREAT NECK cast out in front, it is a Stanley 9-1/2 under the hood









Think I should add some shavings in a photot, just for fee-bay folks?









This is what followed me home that day…


----------



## WoodAndShop

One of my many Henry Disston handsaw restorations:










1896-1917 Model D-8


----------



## lateralus819

Just finished a type 18 #7. Have a type 7, #7 almost done too. Left the japanning. I quite like this plane, if i didn't have a suitable #7 I'd keep it. I wore rubber gloves the whole time. Was contaminating the knob and tote and sides with prints and iron debris lol.

Its the first #7 on the left


----------



## j1212t

I love seeing you guys work these old tools into working order. Warms my heart, thanks for the nice pics and stories!


----------



## WoodAndShop

Great job lateralus819!


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks Woodandshop. It takes a long time to flatten these jointers.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Lat- you've definitely contracted the bug Nice work.


----------



## lateralus819

Yessir! It works so well! I can't wait to try the other #7.


----------



## WoodAndShop

lateralus819, you're right, it's not easy to flatten a No. 7. What method are you using? I've started borrowing Chris Schwarz's method for cutting a course belt sander paper and adhering it (spray adhesive) to a flat surface…seems to work faster than my old method of using 220 grit roll paper. Chris uses a granite tile, but I just use an inexpensive larger white melamine board (shelving section at home depot or lowes). Frank Klausz said that it's flatter than glass or granite, and he's right! Tonight I'm working on flattening a No. 6 Try, a No. 10 1/2 Rabbeting plane, and a No. 4 1/2 smoother (in addition to some wooden & transition planes), so it'll save me a lot of time.


----------



## lateralus819

I bought some Belt sander belts like you suggested. They last a long time. I also bought 220 roll paper, and it is ********************. gums up and it's done, even after cleaning. The only good thing is it is sticky back. I just clamp the paper to my table saw wing. It's amazing how fine a scratch 80 grit leaves in cast iron. I usually finish off at 320 or so.

It's good to buy the belts especially if you have a belt sander. I bought a pack of 10 for $15. 1 belt can do a few planes. Not to mention you end up with belts for your sander too.


----------



## Slyy

Lat and Joshua great job fellas! The saw and No 7 turned out great! You get an etch saved outa that saw Joshua?

A friend brought me a few goodies, some for him and some for me. He wanted this old plane fixed up:

















"Made in USA" only stamp of any kind on the body, but the blade was. Hercules, so I figure it's all Sargent made Hercules No 5 equivalent.
Cleaned up well:

















Also had a nice looking brace in the mix, this one stood out to me as a potential older one.









Didn't do much but a light OOOO steel wool and mineral spirits to get all the active rust off, dip in evaporust (which found a bit more hiding under some of the nickle plating) then some more steel wool. Cleaned the wood parts and gave them a healthy dose of natural danish oil. Thought maybe it was a Millers Falls 30 or 34. Under the rust, found out it was a No 62. The various parts and style, lignum vitae head, rosewood handle, etc pins it about 1880 manufacture. Looking nice, patina'd and ready for use!


----------



## lateralus819

Sly i rcvd a plane just like that. Looking at it, it's probably worth fixing.


----------



## lateralus819

Here is another #7, this time a type 10. I love how this one came out. Looks brand new.





































This is the other #7 from the aforementioned lot.


----------



## lateralus819

I have a #4 1/2 soaking right now, gonna blast it in a bit. But shhhh don't tell Red.


----------



## Slyy

Low Knob looking great on that 7!


----------



## lateralus819

Yep. I prefer the low knob.


----------



## summerfi

You fellers are doing some really nice work. Jake, that's a cool brace with the L.vitae head. I wonder why they used two different woods on it?


----------



## WoodAndShop

lateralus819, I've also got a No. 4 1/2 that just finished soaking in a citric acid solution, and I may also blast it tonight!


----------



## Slyy

Bob, lost in time I guess, the Old Tool Heaven says it came that way until 1895. The beading on the head pegs mine as a bit older too according to the same place. Interesting combo though. Kinda cool thinking about the fact that when this was made the Wright brothers still had a couple decades or so to go before making history…...


----------



## john2005

Y'all remember this?










Well I got one of these










So now it looks like this


----------



## lateralus819

Very nice John. Although it sucks it happened, it is a good lesson for you and everyone else. I love the look of the #12- series, not much a fan of it in use though. I ended up picking up a #112 instead.

I checked on my #4 1/2, put 3 nice thick coats on it and it looks awesome, one thing stood out though, the paint didn't cover the tops of the casting markings. Kind of odd, never seen it before. There is a faint grey on the tops, not a big deal in the least, just thought it was odd.


----------



## Brit

Beautiful John. Now move that plane onto the bench a bit more will you? LOL


----------



## WayneC

Very nice.


----------



## johnstoneb

This is a Stanley 2246 I picked up. No one else bid on it. Almost everything was there. I wrote about it on the MBOYD thread.


















This is what it looks like now. Just need to find a saw that will fit.


----------



## lateralus819

Nice job Bruce! I've yet to acquire a miter box.

Why does paint have to take so long to cure? I just went and sanded and waxed the knob and tote for the newly acquired #4 1/2, MAN IT LOOKS SO GOOD! I had bought it to sell, but now I'm having second thoughts. I mean, i have 8 other #4 1/2's i dont NEED another, but it looks so sexy. Ahh first world problems.


----------



## WoodAndShop

Beautiful john2005! Did you turn the handles?


----------



## lateralus819

Finsihed my type 13 #4 1/2. Bought it to sell it, but i can't bring myself to do it. It turned out so nice. I'll think on it. Probably my favorite one now! The tote was snapped in half and missing a piece at the horn, was going to fix it and put it back on, but realised i had a near perfect tote in the house, minus the bit at the horn. It was odd cause it was light just like the knob and tote on this. Never seen light rosewood like this before. It did darken a lot with the beeswax though.

Before



























After


----------



## ksSlim

Nice job! If you change your mind about keeping it, let me known and I'll make it right with you.


----------



## lateralus819

Send me an offer. Money always talks with me. I will always sell duplicates.


----------



## john2005

No, didn't turn the handle, just cleaned and reused the old parts. I did have to strip the crappy paint job in all it's oversprayed glory on the new base and repaint it. The rest is just the wire wheel and some elbow grease.


----------



## Slyy

John Glad too see you got that up and running again, at least the old one gave us all something to think about.

Bruce that is a nice box, been hunting craigslist and the swap meets for an older Stanley or Millers Falls.

Lat, that 4-1/2 is looking nice! Interesting on that lighter rosewood. Certainly all of seen is the very dark red/brown coloration.

Worked up a more interesting restore myself over the last couple weeks. Didn't get up until almost 1 today (call all night) but got enough time to finish this up. Picked up an older Wilton woodworking vise, under bench style. Got it for about $15 but was missing the quick rease coupler.

















Going to pick up some wood for the face and make a longer handle from a solid wood dowel as well, so a bit more work to be done.
LJ Shampeon was nice enough to send me an extra quick release he had, so the vice is in working order.
Reworked the paint job a bit with some engine enamel spray, got the rust off and now she's looking pretty good.


----------



## lateralus819

Awesome work Sly. I desperately need to grab one of those.


----------



## woodchuckerNJ

Lateralus819, looks kind of narrow to be a 4 1/2… obviously you know your stuff… 
looks like a #4..


----------



## lateralus819

It clearly says #4 1/2 on the casting. Not to mention uses a 2 3/8" blade.


----------



## summerfi

Great job on that Wilton Jake. She's looking sharp.


----------



## WoodAndShop

Very nice vise Slyy!


----------



## johnstoneb

lat that 4 1/2 is nice

skyy nice restore on the vice
.


----------



## terryR

Jake, nice work on that vice…kinda been looking for rusty vices here…cannot have enough! Hell, I want one bolted to my tailgate! 

Lat, I don't know how or why, but you've got ME searching for old 4 1/2's now! Especially a Union Tool Co, or Sargent. Jeez, what a bunch of enablers…I owe ya! LOL!


----------



## donwilwol

More of a cleanup then a restore. I won this ebay bid at a very good price, only to discover after I had bought it from Kevin (lateralus819 to most of you). A great plane and I'm happy

As it was delivered.









to have it.









And as it sits beside my other #700 series.


----------



## lateralus819

Crap! That looks great! Nice fix on the handle too. Couldn't have wished for a more deserving buyer. How does it work?


----------



## terryR

Looks great, Don! Looks like the 18"er?

How did you clean the old wood? Gotta be Rosewood? So it's pre-1928…

Just missed completing my Auto-Set collection by $150! That darn 711 is pricey…


----------



## lateralus819

Terry, did they make a 4 1/2 size in the autoset series?


----------



## Brit

Gorgeous Don. You really made that wood sing.


----------



## donwilwol

Yes, its the #718. I'm missing the 711 and 707.

I actually think its east Indian mahogany, although the knob may be rosewood. The tote was sanded due to the repair, but the knob just has a fresh coat of bush oil put on with steel wool.

No 4 1/2 size in the 700 series.


----------



## lateralus819

Damnit! haha. Oh well. Back to the hunt, speaking of which Don, TWO FREAKING WEEKS [email protected]!!


Code:


@

@@


----------



## terryR

^right…East Indian Mahog…that's what I meant to type.  
Sure don't see ANY of that for sale.

Oh crap! Don and I are both searching for the elusive old 711.

Kevin, the 711 the 5 1/4 size…lucky for me! I wouldn't want to be bidding against ya on a cool 4 1/2. just sayin'


----------



## donwilwol

I know Terry. You gave me a chance on the 707 and I blew it. I'm trying to stay away from ebay now that the flea markets should start.

I have a question I thought I'd ask here first. I bought this nice Stanley Cherry level for $5 with a broken vial. Terry was nice enough to send me a new vial, so I've got to fix it. Anyone know how this comes apart. Both ends of the vial looks like a brass cap over it.


----------



## Slyy

Thx all on the vise. Looks good and thanks to Shampeon it WORKS!

Don the tote on that 718 is seriously gorgeous!!! Great job on that, Lat was probably happy to see who it was going to!

Don, my guess is friction fit. Maybe take a small punch through the bottom if there's a spot for it. Or if not, since that vial is broken you can sit a punch on it to knock it out? My experience is with only one Stanley level so far. I don't think I grabbed any pics of it but my vial housing had three splines that were expanded to hood the vial housing in place. I suspect this was done first and then the actual glass vials cemented into to place inside the housing afterwards. I had to add a few spacers to get mine right enough after taking it apart to keep them from rotating in place as a result.


----------



## DonBroussard

@Slyy-I'm looking for a vise for my workbench. I can only hope to find one like yours. You did a great job with the restoration.

@DonW-Nice purchase from the 'bay. It'd be nice if we knew ahead of the bidding that we're looking at a fellow LJs offering, or that we were competing against another LJer. You did (another) great job on the restoration and the tote looks amazing!


----------



## BTKS

Incredible save!! I wish I had time to get back to my delta lathe rebuild. It's been blocking my large shop door for over a year now. The piles have grown around it and made a real mess of things.
I can't wait for it to look half as good as this restore. GREAT WORK!!!


----------



## terryR

DonW, any luck removing the brass piece that holds the vial from that level?

Curious since I have a Disston which needs the same repair. My Stanley SW has screws to allow for removal of the plumb vial, but I've had no luck with the other after minimal effort. I just don't want to mess up the old Disston…


----------



## Brit

*Don* - I think if you sawed down the two red lines and removed the bit in the middle, you'd be able to see how the plug was fitted. Just sayin'. )


----------



## donwilwol

I set it back on the shelf. First Ive had no time. Second, I figured sooner or later i'll come across a $2 specimen that I can give Andy's treatment so I know how to take it apart.


----------



## terryR

^Smart…

If you get in a hurry, maybe mail it to Dr Scott for an x-ray? Or try a local ER during a slow night shift? 

Definately DON'T splurge on shipping to Andy! LOL.


----------



## Brit

Seriously, I would clean the dirt of the plug, put some double-sided tape on it and stick it to a piece of smoothed harwood. Then give it a twist and see if there is any movement. It has to be either screwed in or pushed in.


----------



## WhoMe

I don't know why it is so hard to find a 711, aren't they on about every tenth street???

Oh, wait, I re read that. You are looking for a plane… nevermind…..


----------



## york64

I found this something no.9 at a flee market for 8 bucks. Polished the sides and carved a new handle out of a chunk of cocobolo. Now it works great. It worked before but now it works for me.


----------



## CL810

York that is way cool!


----------



## BTimmons

Wow. Never seen anyone do a block plane lever cap like that!


----------



## bandit571

This old plane came in the mail awhile back









The Jack plane in back. No, that ain't rust, that is what is left of Crimson colour Ohio Tool Co. used for awhile.

Plane was a nice user, but had one too many Jacks in the shop. Maybe it will find a home where it will get used more often. A look at what it became









Even has a funny looking iron, too









Tapered, laminate, irons are as easy to sharpen, either.


----------



## lateralus819

Here's the


















aforementioned square I picked up. Quick Cleaning and she's good to go. Says F. A. Freeman sheffield.


----------



## shampeon

Jake: just got back from a week in SoCal, so just catching up now. Glad to see the QR nut works, and that Wilton vise is looking sharp.


----------



## Brit

*Bandit* that Ohio Jack came out nice.

*Lateralus* - That nice square gives me hope for one that I was given by a work colleague a couple of years ago. I'm curious about the brass strip laying on the top of your fence in the first and second photos. Are you planning on making a square from scratch?


----------



## lateralus819

No,....yes? I have ideas. A while ago, i bought a bunch of pcs of brass. I have wide, narrow, round stock etc.

I really want to make a centerline marking tool. Like the bridge city CS-2. I was pricing the rack and pinion setup and it seems pricy, but on my recent marking gauge build i would have loved one. I hate trying to determine the center of a piece, and guessing.


----------



## terryR

Lat, nice job on the Freeman square!

While you're busy building a centerline gauge, make TWO! Sell me one, and break even on materials.  I hate finding the centerline…usually grabbing a metric rule and working out the math in mm's. Then scribing with a marking gauge. Too much wasted time…

Or we could go in together and buy ONE Bridge City Tool and take turns using it…till USPS loses it!


----------



## lateralus819

LOL Terry, i will keep you in mind!

They used to make a center line out of rosewood and brass. Gonna go that route. Their new one, uses anodized aluminium, and looks really sharp. Uses a wire rope and sheave, which may be made in house. Looks like rack and pinion is the easiest route right now, but locating a brass rack may take time.

I agree it takes time, a lot of time's I'll adjust the square to what looks like center, scribe it, and flip the square to the other side and scribe until they line up. Which works, but can be time consuming and frustrating.

I feel like i have way too many ideas going in my head, but with no progress on any. My infill plane has taken a spot on the back burner.


----------



## Slyy

Thanks Ian, wouldn't be so without your kindness!

York, not seen anyone remake a cap like that for a block plane, that's pretty slick!

Lat also good job on the square. I've found a few that have initials etx carved in them. Seems like they were (and still are) and indespensible tool that anyone would want to make sure stayed theirs! Would be hella interested to see you work on any of the aformentioned projects. Gonna go check out Bridge City's site.


----------



## lateralus819

I may do a blog on it. I figured on making two. Terry claimed the 2nd lol.

Seems like the majority of the project's i want to do are shop based, haven't built a piece of furniture in a while. Getting itchy.

Actually, my next project is an easel for my wife. Her's doesn't suit her anymore and she wants a few add ons. I think it will be a fun project.


----------



## Airframer

I am mostly done with my SW #246 restore. I still have some aprts to make and the saw to cleanup and tune but the main box is all purtied up now.

A couple Before pics..



























And After..


















More details and pics in my blog about it


----------



## lateralus819

Treated myself to a type 7 #606 . Needed a new tote and knob, and a complete restore. The leading edge of the frog, somehow, has chips, as well as the edge of the lever cap. Not a big deal for what i paid. Works Awesome!


----------



## Slyy

Eric, as stated before, that restore really gave me a hankering to hunt down an old mitre box. Seriously digging it!

Lat, thats a great save on that 606! Train wrecks are the best, hardly anything more satisfying than seeing that hunk of poo turned into a functional tool!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nice save Lat. I love my 606. It's not going anywhere.


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks. Yah, it's a beaty, thats for sure! Figure since I'd rather not pony up $1k for a set of LN, i can just get some bedrocks. Now to get a 607/608.

PS- I secretly need a LN #7/8 :[


----------



## davidmackv

I rebuilt this Wilton Vise. I use it to hold everything.


----------



## terryR

Some serious work on that miter box, Eric! Looks great…

Nice flat top, Kevin. The 606 is one I'm hoping to acquire…unless I score the LN 7 1/2. Cannot see the repair marks on the tote…new one? Bubinga maybe? If you want, mail me that front knob and I'll turn ya a new one to match your tote. (can't remember if you have a lathe)

David, nice Wilton…the color even matches all my Grizzly tools. Any chance you remember what color it is?


----------



## Tim457

Hey, stupid question, are replacement vice faces/inserts available for vices like the Wilton above? I see some deals on them every once in a while but the inserts are either missing or shot.


----------



## lateralus819

#5 from the flea market. Cleaned up nice, has about 95% japanning.


----------



## lateralus819

I have a #7 and #8 almost ready, waiting on paint to cure. Gonna be sweet!!


----------



## bandit571

An Ugly Brown Duck showed up a few days ago









Ah, another "victim" for the Rehab Center?









There is BROWN paint on the body, not black, nor red. So, a few hours of fun









And a trip down the Pine test track, and this Shipleigh's #4 is about set









Even that nasty sole cleaned up









Currently rebuilding a Disston D( no hyphen) 8 skew back. Be a few days, though…


----------



## bandit571

Before









A very abused D8 with a broken tote









The tote, plus the needed part to repair it. Cleaned the saw plate









and did find a faint etch. After a stint in the clamps, and abuse by some wood working tools









about halfway there on the sanding. Teeth on the plate will need a bit of work, but soon, very soon, an 1878-1888 Disston D8 will emerge…Stay tuned.


----------



## Wally331

This thread has been ridiculous lately! Awesome restorations from everyone. I restored this MF eggbeater a few months ago and never posted. Really works great and for something like 20 bucks off the bay you can't go wrong. I used some small "testors" 1 or 2 oz bottles of enamel and they worked great. Love that red and black combo.


----------



## JayT

Cross post from the handsaw thread of an 8 inch Disston backsaw.

Before:










After:










More info in this blog post.


----------



## planepassion

JayT, you know, since the etch appears to be gone from the original plate, the replacement of the sawplate represents a significant upgrade. I'll bet she cuts like a dream. After seeing the success of your restoration, I'm thinking that a sawplate from Bontz is in my future


----------



## Mosquito

Very nice Jay. I've got a similar saw (8" Disston) that needs some teeth. The plate is still fine, has a good etch, and is all cleaned up, but the teeth were so screwed up I filed them all off, and need to put new teeth on it. Haven't had the nerve (or patience) to file new teeth in it myself yet


----------



## donwilwol

Some Nice work being displayed here. Well done.


----------



## JayT

Thanks, guys.

Brad, there is actually a faint etch on the original plate, but trying to re-use the plate would have had two potential problems. First, I don't think the etch is deep enough to have remained after removing the corrosion around and through it. If, by some miracle, it could be saved from that, then the second issue is that by the time you filed/cut past the crack, I think the teeth would have been filed into the bottom of the etch. Re-plating was best alternative, IMHO.


----------



## exelectrician

Before:



















After:


----------



## lateralus819

nice work electrician, saw one of those minty in box for $325, had to pass lol.


----------



## derekcohen

From this derelict infill found on eBay ..










... to this "restoration" (with a little attitude) ...










That turned out to be made by Spier.

One more - possibly the first (only?) restoration of a LN plane. This was done 7 years ago. Picked up a cheap skew block plane on eBay …










Final result …










Regards from Perth

Derek


----------



## ksSlim

Very nice Derek!


----------



## exelectrician

Lateralus,
Yeah, this one I won after being outbid many times on ebay. The Stanley 10 1/2 is a really hard-to-find item at reasonable prices, I ended up paying more that I hoped but when you gotta have it you pay the price.


----------



## exelectrician

Derek two beautiful planes. Wow on the infill and the L-N looks sweet !


----------



## bandit571

A look at the "Before"









In need of a major rehab









and now (Drum roll please) the after









A Disston D8 skew back. Oil finish on the repaired tote.









Not sure who was "J.D." (Hogg? Maybe) But the saw is now mine. 1st model years of the skew back saws.


----------



## bandit571

A before of G. Roseboom's plough plane









Fresh from the Antique mall @ $16….. And a during shot









Finally got it to work a bit









I haven't repaired the tote, may not, either. And now, after a new finish was applied









Wedge for the iron is a rebuild of Oak, missing iron was replaced with a reground 1/4" chisel from a POS H-F chisel. Steel is very good in it, though. One more look









Hope the Rosebooms like it…


----------



## donwilwol

double post but I had to put it here.

This is an ebay find. I took a chance thinking it might be a type 1. This time it paid off.

The before:


















And the now:





































It's complete and all look parts are period correct.


----------



## WoodAndShop

Don W. Awesome find and awesome type 1 restoration!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Excellent Don. I would have him-hawed about restoring a type 1, but it looks great.


----------



## JayT

Another fine DonW restoration!. You must be paying the elves very well these days.


----------



## Timbo

Well, messed up and didn't get the before picture but here is the shot that I thought would cause some to turn away, I did stop to consider what I was doing as this jointer was in good shape and could have been cleaned up and put back in use. It was a 28" Jointer, I used the toe portion for this plane.









And after:









Project with More pics here:


----------



## bandit571

The before:









Stanley #5-1/2, T19 Rusty & Crusty









and the "After" shots









Shined up rather nicely









Might give it a test drive, after a bolt shows up









Not a bad afternoon's work…


----------



## lateralus819




----------



## theoldfart

Kevin, Looks outstanding. Way better than the later models.


----------



## Brit

Very nice job Kevin.


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks guys, i quite like it.


----------



## Bundoman

I was rained out over the weekend and took a quick stop where I picked up this old bugger at one of my local haunts. I can find very little information on this plane except that it appears to have been produced by the Metallic Plane Company of Auburn New York. It would appear that this information makes it pretty darn old. The adjustment mechanism is rather complex and consists of 3 levers that will adjust not only depth and lateral, but also frog angle. The blade is marked as Auburn Tool with thistle trademark. It approximates the size of a Stanley 7 jointer and is corrugated. Also to note is the fact that this plane has an adjustable mouth. The tote appears to have been repaired at some point in the past. It appears that there may have been more of a horn on the tote but it may have been reshaped. The bolt is through the sole and there is a shim under the tote. It looks a little less than original but I am not sure. Other that that, it appears to be intact and the adjustments etc. are loose and functional. The front knob is roughly the shape of the top handle on a typical brace and roughly half the diameter. I do not have a lot of reference material in my possession other than internet. Can anyone tell me any more about this plane? Value? History? Original profile of the tote horn? etc.? I want to treat this one right and clean/restore accordingly. I will post some post restore photos later…Thanks…Brent


----------



## CL810

.


----------



## donwilwol

Brent, I think your plane was made in the late 1860's. Its based off a patent by Elliot G. Storkes. It did have a horn on the tote originally. If its like the one in PTMPIA, its a little longer and slenderer then a typical Stanly tote horn.

I have no idea on a value, but its really really cool!!!


----------



## Bundoman

Thanks for your information. It was sitting with a group of 7 and 8 Stanley jointers at the antique shop. I almost left it but it was just too strange to leave behind! I brought home 4 on this trip, a Stanley 7 and 8, and a K6 Keen Kutter were the other 3. I thought this one was one to share. Pardon my lack of knowledge, but what, if I may ask, is the PTMPIA? I see it talked about more often and am unaware what it is. Still learning!!!

Brent


----------



## donwilwol

PTMPIA, PATENTED TRANSITIONAL & METALLIC PLANES IN AMERICA


----------



## Slyy

Geez two adjustable mouth mid 19th century planes dropped in here in a weeks time! We have to good luck fellas hanging out in here with those things!! It's a shame that the over-engineered planes like that just fell by the way side (presumably for cost and difficulty of manufacture) but DANG are they sexy looking! I really dig hose low knob planes too!

Lat, that combo plane is a thing of beauty!

Glad the fireworks flamed down in here a bit, been busy getting ready for my upcoming entangle to my Bachelor of Nursing program so haven't been able to drop into LJ's in a week or so. Back to the good 'ol LJ's!


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks SLY.


----------



## Slyy

Typing on an iPhone boggles my mind, where did "entangle" come from in my last post? Pretty sure I typed "entrance".

Lat didn't you start using a new camera for your pics? Seems like they've been pretty top notch lately.


----------



## lateralus819

Those were with my phone. If there is grass in the background it's my wives DLSR. Takes phenomenal pictures compared to what I'm used to.

Can't wait to post my bedrock #607….Used a low gloss black, looks a lot like a LN.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Low gloss ehh? I've only used semi-gloss on restores. Only recently I learned that LN japanning is really a powder coating.


----------



## lateralus819

Yah i knew that. Looks good. I actually saw a #608 with "eggshell" low gloss paint. Looked GREAT.

I'd like to get set up to do powder coat, but lack an oven for baking lol. Think my wife would kill me.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya, might have to wire up a craigslist oven in the shop. I know a good electrician, but he lives in some place called Iow-duh.


----------



## lateralus819

LOL.

I wish there was an easier way to remove paint. I hate sand blasting. Although i had a break through. Saw some "Glass beads" (which are more the consistency of baking soda) at tractor supply. About $20 more than the "black beauty" sand.

Tell ya what, works wonders, provided you have an AC that can keep up. 150 PSI it eats it up. If i had a bigger AC, i could do a plane in under 10 minutes. Also, my window on my face shield gets abraded so it also makes it longer, but still faster than sand, and healthier.


----------



## WoodAndShop

Bundoman (Brent), cool find! I've never heard of "the Metallic Plane Company of Auburn New York", but it looks very old, so I wouldn't do much to it…especially until you find out about its history. Your best bet would be to reach out to people in the Mid-west Tool Collectors Association and get some input.


----------



## Bundoman

Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions on this one. I will have to see if I can find someone to contact over at the Midwest Tool Collectors. That seems like a good place to start.


----------



## terryR

So, lat, or everyone…which media do you prefer, the Black Beauty or Glass? Getting a bigger AC this week, sandblaster soon thereafter!

Gorgeous 45 BTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ford or New Holland tractor?  Looks similar in size to our lil 27 hp Deere…


----------



## ToddJB

Lat, have you tried a needle scaler ?

I don't have a sand blaster, but I find this does a fine job. But I'm also not doing masses of restorations.


----------



## donwilwol

I use Black Beauty. I've never tried anything else, but it seems to work well for me.


----------



## Deycart

Don are you talking about this?
http://www.amazon.com/Bundle-Package-Beauty-Cleaner-4-5oz/dp/B00EMLUIMS


----------



## terryR

Will try the Black Beauty…ummm…sandblasting stuff! 

Oh my, never seen a needle scaler! What sort of finish does it leave behind, Todd? Just getting into air tools…


----------



## GMatheson

Here is my mitrebox restore. I picked it up a while ago and have been using it as found but decided it should get cleaned up. When I started taking it apart I was kind of surprised by how many little parts were on it. Everyone got an evapobath and wire brushing and the painted parts got some new paint. I went with the black instead of the original grey because i thought it would give a better contrast with the bare metal.





































The saw that came with it is not the saw in the picture. This is a shorter 24" saw I picked up for $5. The problem is that both saws I have are 4" and this box will not adjust low enough and there is about 1/4" gap between the bed and the bottom of the saw. A new saw or plate will be required.


----------



## Deycart

You can put a board across it that is a little over 1/4" until you find a new saw.


----------



## GMatheson

Thats what I've been doing. Might take the red plates off and attach a board permanently till I get a new saw….a Wally saw is very tempting.


----------



## Buckethead

G-Math… That's a sweet looking saw you've got there.

I couldn't just gaze at that beautiful multi of Lat's without commenting how awesome it is. That is the multi plane I want. Is it a 56? I really don't know all the numbers, but boy… I work of art when I see one.


----------



## JayT

Lat's combo plane is an early #45. The later ones were plated, not japanned. My #45 is a bit later than his, floral body, but was plated (now patina'd) and has the depth adjuster for the cutters. The japanned ones look great, especially with the brass screws, but I'll take the depth adjuster over looks any day for a user.


----------



## Mosquito

I'd have to agree with JayT. As much as I like my #45's, I'd have to say I'd highly prefer the depth adjuster over the good looks of the early ones. With the Keen Kutter #64 (same as #45), it's older and has no depth adjuster, and the 2 #46's I have don't have depth adjusters… yeah, greatly prefer having one.


----------



## ToddJB

Terry, I keep it off machined surfaces, but for things like the jappaned part of the body it cleans it well enough that I just wipe it down and prime. I like it because it doesn't take a sandblasting box (floor space) and doesn't really create a ton of dust.


----------



## Bundoman

Liking that black miter box!


----------



## Slyy

GM that box came out looking great! Sometimes it feels good just to pretty these old gals up, even if they're otherwise running great!


----------



## lateralus819

It's my understand silica sand is pretty harmful to your health. That's why i switched. Plus the glass beads are more efficient.


----------



## DaddyZ

Sweet Looking Box GM


----------



## lateralus819




----------



## Slyy

Lat, that 607 turned out great!!!! No 7's are fun!!


----------



## lateralus819

Yes I have about 5 I'm waiting to sell lol.


----------



## Bundoman

As promised, here are some after shots of my Metallic Plane Co. jointer. I gave it some thought and finally decided that I would clean this one up lightly to preserve most of the color and distress from its very long life. I have decided not to put a horn back on this plane at this time as the last owner made a repair with a rather large bugle head screw which doesn't leave a lot of room for a good repair. I think it looks OK the way it is and plan to leave it be. This one is not a jaw dropper by any measure. But, she shines a little better and all of the parts move freely now. Best part is that the patent and manufacturer stamps appeared out of the gunk when I cleaned her up. The knobs were wiped off with mineral spirits and got some BLO and wax. The rest just got an hour in the tank, brushed clean, waxed and oiled. I did not disassemble the mechanism so cleaning those parts was tricky at best.


----------



## WayneC

Very nice job Brent. Does the plane justice.


----------



## ksSlim

Well done!


----------



## bandit571

The "Before"









Somewhere in that block of old barn wood oak, is a plane









And the "After" shot, with the required shavings…


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent Brent. That's a cool piece. It looks great.


----------



## donwilwol

*Bundo* just happened on to this this morning, thought you'd be interested, http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-METALLIC-PLANE-C0-PLANE-CORRUGATED-/291143946575?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c988114f


----------



## Bundoman

Cool. I will keep an eye on that sale. I may repair the tote in time but will have to locate a proper bolt or reduce the head size on the current one to make it a solid repair. I like having the horns on the totes when I am finished repairing a plane. The bolt head is just so large on this one that i may have to chuck it up un my lathe and turn down the diameter of the head so that I can get a better glue surface. The cast boss under the tote is chipped out and the prior owner drilled through the sole to get some good threads. A 1/4 inch bolt must have been easily available and the threaded end was reduced to slip through the original casting and thread into the remaining sole. The repair is solid but a little ugly underneath. I am happy with this one.


----------



## lateralus819

Bundo, what I've done is, hand plane the part that's broken on the horn, and glue a piece of the hole, and re-drill the hole through the repair.


----------



## Bundoman

Lateralus..I appreciate the thoughts and suggestions. I have replaced a few horns in the past with the technique you suggest and may indeed go there with this one. It does work very well. I cannot lie in that I am torn between fixing it and just leaving it with the repair as it was done. The repair is old and the color looks good with the rest of the plane. I am debating whether I want to cut it back and and have the new looking wood in the horn or just leave it be.


----------



## JayT

Brant, you did great on that one. My two cents would be to leave it alone. It would be very difficult to make a repair look as aged as the plane.


----------



## Slyy

Brent that came out fantastic, I wasn't even aware of those planes until you posted it originally.
Between the mechanism and the low fat knob, I think I'm in love with the metallic plane company planes now !


----------



## Bundoman

This one really grew on me too. Thanks all for the compliments.


----------



## Bundoman

Nice looking 607 Lat! Love the flat side planes but dont have too many. That one is a beauty!


----------



## lateralus819

She sure is Brent, almost feels better to use than my LN. Almost .

I'm definitely hooked on the bedrocks. Waiting to score a whole line up.


----------



## Slyy

Couldn't find much info on this particular Stanley brace. Picked it up last weeknd at the swap meet to $5. I like the heavy beefy mechanism, extra weight seems to help it track well in use.
No 919, 10-inch. Was nickle plated new, but it was sitting around long enough that it had lost just about all of it. Went for a good cleaning rather than full resto as a result just to keep some patina.

Before 









After


----------



## Bundoman

Nice job on the brace Slyy…It turned out nicely.

I hope I am not wearing the welcome thin with plane postings. I enjoy seeing all of the things people are breathing full of new life and get to see some very unique items here. I thought I would add this little Fulton 3708 smoother that came home with me last weekend. I usually don't buy Fulton planes but a couple things caught my eye on this one and one was its size. This is essentially a size 2 plane. A little digging online indicates that this one was built by Millers Falls and it seems to be of a little better quality than a lot of the Fulton planes that I see in the wild. Perhaps it is a little older. This is the first 2 sized plane that I have brought home. This one was not much work as it was pretty good to begin with. It got 15 minutes in the tank and scrubbed right up. Finish on all parts is original. More of a clean than a restore on this little one.


----------



## woodchuckerNJ

Well today was a crappy day. I dropped my laptop and destroyed it.

*BUT *yesterday I picked this up for $3.. A #3.
It must be a late model as it does not have brass nuts or wheel.

But I didn't have a #3.. I get a chance to see if I like it.
Just a little work, and little fettling. If I like it I'll get the sole totally smooth.
Kevin, I too had problems getting the handle and knob off. I sprayed blaster on the nut, and it dripped down, and loosened up. Don't know how it will do with refinishing. But thought you'd like to know.



























The blade was bent, so I had to straighten it on an anvil. Came out perfect. I was surprised.









A little work initially on diamond plates, then to stones. I don't have a polish yet. I haven't brought it up to that.
Wanted to see how it worked with a basic edge..









I also had to shorten the rods, they were too long and the handle and knob were slightly loose. 
I wanted to chase the threads, but no die fit. so I just ground the rods down and chamfered them.




























I'm going to need another drawer! 









No seriously , I don't collect, but for $3 I figured I could not go wrong.
About 2 - 3 hours for an initial workout. To really do it, I need more work on the bottom and would refinish the handle and knob. This is my first late model Stanley. All the other Stanley's are older. Anyone know the age of this one approx?


----------



## Slyy

Brent, I promise: No one is gonna get tired of my tool resto porn….. Keep it coming friend! Nice score too, looking for my first 2/3/8 sizes just gotta make the score!


----------



## exelectrician

This is my Atkins saw handle










I added a small amount of detail before finishing with Daley's yacht varnish.
thanks for looking.


----------



## bandit571

This came in a bag in the mail the other day









Iron is stamped Lakeside.









Just over 9" long









Strange way to ship a plane…

Ok, after a wee bit of elbow grease









Tote repair was by the seller, I think. Solid,but not quite right.









Frog looks like a "Stanley"? Will have to go back and look up all the casting maks this thing has..









Sole wasn't too bad.









Made for Wards? Keyhole shape on the hole in the lever cap. Date??


----------



## lateralus819

Bandit, that is a sargent made.

http://www.brasscityrecords.com/toolworks/graphics/plane%20id.html


----------



## ksSlim

Lateral lever might give a clue as to the mfgr.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Frog looks like a possible Stanley to me. Definitely NOT Sargent. The blade chipper is definitely Stanley. Notice the straight edges on the chipper hole, then distinct curve starts. Sargent chipper holes are smooth transitions around the hole.

And that casting throws me for a loop. Never have seen that cross piece radius'd like that.


----------



## bandit571

Mike: I'm thinking this MIGHT be a Victor line that Stanley sold to Wards? Frog looks like a dead ringer for the Victor/Early Handyman lines. Late 40-early 50s??

Base is a gray colour. Frog rides on two rails. the numbers C 73 stamped inbetween the bolts holes. SHORT bolts, with seperate washers flat tops.

Lever cap has a "U" stamped into the underside, out near the edge, Keyhole style hole. Tote does have a place for a "nib" sticking out of the base casting. Tote sits on a ring, the knob does not. handles LOOK like they had once had a coat (or three) of black paint. frog is painted black.

It is either Stanley made for Wards #1104, or a #1204 maybe 9-1/4" long.


----------



## HorizontalMike

I just saw a "Gambles Expert" 9in plane from WI that had that very same frog. Keep diggin' Bandit…


----------



## bandit571

Stanley Victor #1104









with the base as a type 4 frog ( "Y")


----------



## bandit571

and after









The Lakeside has an older version frog and base, ecept for that raised area around the teo and heel. Underside of the lever cap is way different, too. Lakeside has just around the outside edges, no other ribs inside.


----------



## donwilwol

I think they were made after Stanley bought the tinker toy factory.


----------



## ksSlim

Stanley folks were known for using "existing parts", those left from any acquisition.
Most "labeled" (Sears, Wards, Shapleigh, Simmons), didn't spec component style/design.
Use a body from A, add a frog from B. with a lateral lever from C and stamp the iron for the brand.
? Who owns the "Handyman" label or the "Lakeside" or the "Diamond Edge" or the "Keen Kutter" ?
? Who is left out of all the older makers?
Retailers outsource their "Branded" tools.


----------



## HorizontalMike

*Don: "...I think they were made after Stanley bought the tinker toy factory…."_*

Doesn't THAT put bandit's plane in the Willy Wanka Factory? And JUST how sharp can you get a "chocolate" blade anyway?...

*;-)*


----------



## DocBailey

Now that you mention it, Mike, isn't that a COCOA-bolo handle?


----------



## HorizontalMike

EXACTLY! And I think we should hold an official meeting on this crisis. I will set the date for this international meeting, after I complete my weight loss diet… *;-)*


----------



## racerglen

Well, Mike the Doctor is in the house, unlike mine..BTW, you look like you're enjoying that diet ;-)


----------



## bandit571

Really a lot of help here, oh well. Plane will be on the FeeBay Express in a few days, since I only keep the planes I want/need.

Might try an old Dunlap iron in this one, just to see how bad the Lakeside iron is. I know what the Dunlap one is like. Might try a comparision test between the two.

Maybe….


----------



## HorizontalMike

*NOTE! Just read where eBay has been hacked.

Time to change your passwords for BOTH eBay & PayPal.*


----------



## bandit571

Lakeside and Dunlap irons, after a trip on the "New & Improved" grinder jig









A little elbow grease on the stone/sandpaper, and then some test tracks









The Dunlap iron sitting in the Lakeside plane, vs a pine 2×4. Next









And the Lakeside iron back in it's plane, vs a pine 1×6

Lakeside's mouth









Frog is set almost all the wat to the rear.

New grinder jig? Got tired of ragged edge grinding, so I made a slider rest









Add a couple C clamps and a 1×1 to hold an iron









Now I can square an edge, and have a hollow ground edge to start the stones on.


----------



## bandit571

Not too worried about Ebay, never have more than a few dollars in it, anyway. 8-((


----------



## upchuck

So Bandit-
Lakeside? Dunlap? Who won the contest?
I have a few Lakeside blades I've picked up on the cheap. One was so far gone with pits I cut it up for a pair of knives. The block plane 1&5/8" blades I have are thicker than the Stanley's I've got and hold up every bit as well. I have one ground and honed at 20 degrees. I also have a Lakeside 2&1/4" blade in a Rockford #5 1/2. 
Dunlap blades I have no experience with but it was hard to give away a Dunlap #4 sized franken plane after I tuned it up.
Always a joy to hear about what you have going on in the Dungeon.


----------



## vikingcape

Well I have never done one so I figured I would have at it. Found this Gage(?) transitional plane at a local pawn shop. 5 bucks it was mine. I cleaned it, sanded a little, derusted, painted and BLO for the wood parts. Of course sharpened, it joints really well I have to say. Don't know how well I did, my first time, but it was fun and it works nicely. Be gentle to the first time before/after guy


----------



## donwilwol

An Gage for $5. You suck!

Nice plane and nice restore. They are great planes.


----------



## JayT

Nice, Kaleb!


----------



## vikingcape

I didn't realize it was a good brand, I just bought it because it looked mostly complete and well I figured I could handle it. Thanks guys


----------



## DocBailey

This is actually a follow-up of sorts to my "Twilight Zone" thread
The plane is a Type 13 (1925-1928) No. 5

*Before* ==============================




























*After* ===============================


















fortunately, those microscopic pits don't extend past the portion shown









It has most of it's japanning and it's still pretty glossy

Now for something, that I, at least, have never seen before (or perhaps never noticed?)
Check out this brass reinforcing ring at the toe of the rear handle.


----------



## donwilwol

Interesting! I've not seen that either.


----------



## DocBailey

Don W

I was hoping you'd chime in-if for no other reason than that you've handled a lot of old iron.
There's no way a previous owner did it-my best guess is that it's just an evolutionary dead end-something Stanley tried for a while and later abandoned.

btw - the site re-design looks great


----------



## ToddJB

Wish they wouldn't have abandoned it. I've got a couple totes that are cracked there.


----------



## donwilwol

I'm wondering how common it is. Its possible a few like it have passed through my hands unnoticed. I'm going to be looking closer from now on.


----------



## DocBailey

Too bad I'm too lazy to investigate - I have (7) #5s in my personal collection and (24) waiting to be rehabbed-but I don't feel like pulling them apart to have a look.

Let's just call it spring fever


----------



## HorizontalMike

*MOTHER LOAD TIME*

The postman just delivered this today. I have not even cleaned this:

A Sargent #5410 (corrugated). This is a $500-$1000 find. Cost me less than $30 +sh. off of fleaBay.

The only things I see as a challenge are:


 The cap screw is frozen in place and buggered up (I do happen to have a spare)


 The tote has been repaired. The repair looks old but is tight and solid. I'll work on cleaning this, but if it gets bad I can replace with an OEM I have in the shop (rather than make a new rosewood tote).

GEEZ! Take a look at the original japanning! Near perfect. This plane has been cleaned but looks correct for the time frame. The chipper screw has NO knurling, Type2 blade, Horseshoe Lateral, early lever cap, and that casting is definitely a Type2 (just look at the shoe platforms and thin area behind the mouth AND STAMPED 410)!


----------



## donwilwol

yo Mike! Killer find!


----------



## HorizontalMike

Headed to bed now, but just had to wander out to the shop and see if I could nudge that cap screw loose. Ye haw! Came out without an issue, so the frozen part must have happen way in the past. One of my "spare" cap screws works great that particular screw is perfect shape. Will try to tackle the tote soon…


----------



## racerglen

What a score ! I'm thinking Mike is a very very happy man !


----------



## HorizontalMike

Here you go. Had to spend much time with a wire wheel on DP in order to clean casting, since I needed to preserve the OEM japanning. Also selectively used "RustFree" on a paper towel to assist with de-rusting. The tote repair also came out pretty good, though not perfect.

Sargent #5410 Before









Sargent #5410 After


















I wire wheeled and sanded tote after filling old crack-fix with Brazilian Rosewood dust and glue using a toothpick. I had judiciously saved this dust from sanding prior fixes of early Rosewood knobs, since this stuff is no longer available in the modern plane world ;-). One thing to note is that the posted images are "brighter" (PS4 stretched) to show more detail, but in-person everything looks darker. Brazilian Rosewood finishes very DARK, almost like Walnut, IMO. The finish coat is Deft Spray Gloss Lacquer.


----------



## racerglen

Ah, Mike, very nicely done ! That's a beauty, I've got a #6 etched with 1910 on the side, may have to use some of my rosewood dust that way, the results you got are fantastic !


----------



## donwilwol

That came out great Mike.


----------



## bandit571

Consider this a "Before" photo or two









For a whopping $1.50, a Samson 8012. Anybody hear of that brand?









Two piece jaws have a "V" profile. Bit is the only one I have…..for now. No cracks in the wood, all parts work fine









Seems to have a ratchet type end to it…


----------



## GMatheson

I have the Samson 8014D. They are made by Pexto. From what I read they are their top of the line model. I gave mine a complete tear down and rebuild



















$1.50 is a great deal. I had to shell out $5 for mine.


----------



## donwilwol

I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.


----------



## ksSlim

Another rescue from the rust heap.
Nicely done.


----------



## theoldfart

Don, looks like you've raised that one from the dead.


----------



## planepassion

Bandit, your brace looks like my Pexto brace. It's an excellent brace. High quality. The chuck is superb. If memory serves, people call it the Samson chuck. I prefer operating it above all my other braces because of its smooth action and secure holding of bits.

And the patent on my Pexto refers to this chuck.


----------



## DonBroussard

DonW-I call that one "the zombie plane". I imagine that even you might have been surprised at how well that one came out. I'd have expected more pitting in the body but it looks pretty nice.  That's not a restoration-it's a resurrection!


----------



## bandit571

Well, after awhile with the drill press' wire wheels. Mr. Samson is cleaned up









Fitted up with the only bit I have. Oiled the moving parts a bit to help them move as intended. Did a little test run









Just might work as a drill?









The chuck has a Patented stamp on it, the SAMSON has a circle like trademark after it, and the "8012" is stamped as well. Nice wood on the handles, too.


----------



## DanKrager

That's a great addition to the "oldies", Bandit
DanK


----------



## comboprof

My first restoration a Millers Falls 14C I picked up at a garage sale for $20 (down from $30). Not a great deal, but I wanted to try restoration. Before








and after








Then I remembered I had this Stanley SW. Before








and after








It says Stanley SW on the chip breaker and Stanley on the frog adjusting knob. But oddly I do not see Stanley stamped on the sole. Anyone know why? It also seems to be missing the throat adjusting lever I think

I found restoration was a lot of fun and that Evapo rust is amazing. I dumped a bunch more light rusted tools into the bath and cleaned them up. I kept going until the bath turned inky black. Totally cool. Thanks so much for starting this thread and getting me interested in restoration.


----------



## Deycart

Its a 65. Don't throw out the evapo. Its still good just ugly.


----------



## comboprof

Thanks *Deycart* on the "65" I did not know that. In fact I don't know anything about hand planes. What's a good source to learn about collecting and using them?


----------



## Deycart

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html
Is a good start for Stanley.
http://oldtoolheaven.com
Is good for millers falls. I don't know a good source for others. Books are better. Some of the books are well over 100.


----------



## TerryDowning

+1 for Old Tool Heaven and Millers Falls

$20 for a decent 14C is not bad at all. Not the greatest deal ever, but not bad either. Yours looks to be a Type 3.


----------



## gt0915

$25.00 eBay buy turned out to be a rare Henry Disston & Sons "Lumberman" one man crosscut saw from about the 1910's


----------



## donwilwol

*GT8, thats a nice saw!!

*comboprof* the #65 is my favorite block. You're off to a great start! Use the evpo rust until it just doesn't work anymore.


----------



## chrisstef

Whoa, that's some serious strength being tossed around my combo and gt. Straight outta left field with a 65 and monster timber saw! Bravo fellas.


----------



## HorizontalMike

I just picked up this Stanley #8 Pre-Lateral off of fleaBay, hoping it was a Sargent but it wasn't. Over all, it looks to be in pretty good shape, except for having the wrong lever cap (2-1/4in instead of 2-5/8in).

The tote also appears to be of a lighter wood. So ATTENTION ALL YOU STANLEY GURUS. I am a Sargent collector so I need some help in additional details about this pre-lateral Stanley. If that tote is a replacement, it must have been replaced 50-60yr ago by the original user, NOT some collector of recent.

FWIW, this will be a total refurb job since I had to pick up a standalone #8 lever cap to make this authentically complete AFAIK.



















Cutter/blade-Stanley Rule & Level Co.


















Chipper-L. Bailey's Patent Dec. 24, 1867


----------



## Deycart

Definitely a replacement. Should of been rosewood with a very aggressive lean to the front and a thin horn. The rosewood from that era was very dark almost black when you first get them. I like to de-grease them and then strip the finish off. Then hand sand the lighter scratches and lessen the deep ones but not remove them and use a buffer w/ Tripoli compound to make it a nice semi-gloss and then I rub it with wax. They always turn out great that way.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Trying to do my research online. I am so used to "Sargent" that "Stanley" seems like a foreign language! *;-)*
That said, I am holding out on my opinion as to whether or not this particular tote is supposed to be "Rosewood" per se. I understand that there are a couple of popular references that use that as a "holy grail" of sorts, but I feel it is important to pay attention to these little outliers, because these outliers may eventually lead to a greater truth in the history of these neat little fun things to collect. I also understand your vested interest in promoting your online presence with regards to this area. I do appreciate your restoration tips though, I'll give it a try. *8^)*

Thus far, it looks like I have a Type 2 #8









Still very intrigued with the tote. I can tell the knob on this #8 Stanley is rosewood, having dealt with so many Sargents and turning new Rosewood knobs and cutting Rosewood totes for repairs.

However, what really tweaks my interest is that, if this is indeed a "replacement", this "replacement" has to be 60 or more years old, or even older. The patina, wear, and oxidation on the top of the tote and lack thereof on the bottom of the tote, tells me that this tote has been in place several decades. I have taken additional images, and that is part of the reason I want to document this thoroughly BEFORE I start the restoration. I am actually finding a few Stanley totes and knobs on fleaBay made of Beech and other woods that appear to be OEM and/or very old (as in before the collector's craze set in big time).


----------



## donwilwol

Mike. I think you have a type 4. I think the type 2 still had the solid nut.


----------



## JayT

I'd agree with Don for type 4, the frog mounting is wrong for a type 2.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Like I said, maybe I do not speaka da langwage… However, do you consider the following link to be a legitimate source of information Don? Additional links would be appreciated as well… 

 Type 2. Planes made by Stanley 1869-1872.


All of the features of the previous, except:
Earliest models of this type do not have Bailey's name, nor Boston, on the brass adjusting nut.
Most models have "BAILEY'S PATENT" "AUG. 31, 1858, AUG. 6, 1867" stamped into the brass adjusting nut.
Lever cap spring is now rectangular.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Does this help?


----------



## donwilwol

Yes, then in type 3 it says the adjuster is now recessed.


----------



## JayT

Hyperkitten's is one of the reliable type studies, just hard to follow if you aren't as familiar with Stanley planes.

I generally prefer to use the Rexmill type study because it include pictures of most of the characteristics and changes.

Another point toward a type 4 is using fillister head screws for the frog mounting-type 2's used round head screws.


----------



## HorizontalMike

But the frog casting is NOT split by a vertical rib, unless I do not understand what is being described. It is solid all of the way across.

Also note nothing, no identifiers, on the base casting at all.


----------



## Deycart

The original type study was done by Roger K. Smith. It's the one in "antique& collectable stanley tools Guide to identity & value" by John Walter. The second printing is much better than the first has more pictures. As with all price guides take the stated values with a big helping of salt. Especially with common planes. This study is also in PTMPA II. This study is usually considered the preferred study.


----------



## donwilwol

Most of them are spin off of Smith's any how


----------



## JayT

But the frog casting is NOT split by a vertical rib, unless I do not understand what is being described. It is solid all of the way across

Yes, it's not. That style was only used on the type 3's.

Under type 4's "The frog receiver is now a broad, rectangular area, with an arched rear (the portion nearest the tote). It is machined flat."

Type 1 and 2 had a frog receiver in an H shape. Type 3 had the funky frog with the raised rib and then type 4's started into the design that would last for quite a while.


----------



## Deycart

-Mike Just walked you order to the box.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Dang! I just went to RexMill site and I have NOTHING like what they show! WTF? My base casting is *completely* different. I see no way at all of comparing what I have with this site, at all. To bad the Hyperkitten site has NO images at all.

Showing a bit of frustration here… I thought Sargent was a difficult undertaking, however if this is what "Stanley" is like to date/verify, then I will stick with Sargent. Surely there are some better sources… right?


----------



## donwilwol

I'll see if I can get my type 4s posted tonight


----------



## bandit571

Lets seeIF I can find a picture or two









of a #8c type 9









Just a bit newer









When I got this









I sold the #8c. The #31 is almost half the weight.


----------



## JayT

Understand that, Mike. I should have mentioned that I don't think the pic of the frog receiver on the Rexmill site matches up with the description. The pic they show looks like a type 1 or 2.

Note that in the description it references the frog receiver being "arched to the rear", but the pic doesn't show that. Your frog receiver, however, has that definite arch shape and is broad and machined flat. It's the only pre-lateral design that matches with your pics.


----------



## Deycart

There are MANY issues with the rexmill site. I don't use it anymore. Try this

http://primeshop.com/access/woodwork/stanleyplane/pftsynch.htm


----------



## donwilwol

Keep in mind the type study is based on a #4 so your mileage may vary.


----------



## HorizontalMike

OK Jay, so the bottom line Izzzz…....?

I have to say that my flirtatious ways with playing with Stanley this time, sure got me in trouble! I shoulda' NEVER strayed from that golden *Sargent* light… I'll know better next time… *;-)*

Honest honey… I didn't mean it! I wuz jess flirtin'... Whut?! Sleep on the couch?!... Oh come on!...


----------



## HorizontalMike

Wow, Deycart, nice link. Thanks. Very complete.

FWIW, IMO this sure makes Sargent Planes, a much more simplistic straight forward endeavor. Geez!... I'm retired already! I want simple!... *;-)*


----------



## JayT

No arguments, Deycart. It's just that the Rexmill site is the only one with any pics at all until you start to get to know what to look for. At least until Don gets pics for all the types up 

OK Jay, so the bottom line Izzzz…….?

Bottom line is that your plane most closely aligns with a type 4. Too many differences to be an earlier one and then type 5 starts with laterals.

We all also have to keep in mind that Stanley and other tool manufacturers didn't care about types, they just tried to use up parts that worked together. That is one reason I key in on the frog, body and how they mate together first. Those have to fit, whereas irons, chipbreakers, lever caps and wood work on any type of the proper size and may be either left over from a production run or replaced by a user later.

IDK, I think the Stanley stuff is pretty simple at this point, just because I use it more often. I have no idea how to determine type on a Sargent or Millers Falls.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Jay,
I think you are on to something there, "...Stanley and other tool manufacturers didn't care about types, they just tried to use up parts that worked together…" Sargent was like that as well, though it appears that "Stanley" had more parts actually "stamped" with labels than other manufacturers, thus more added confusion in trying to "place" every name in its place. And this was in lieu of having multiple lines/models in production at the same time. In other words WE, the modern "we", try to make that differentiation when in fact there was NONE by the original manufacturers.
Just my opinion…


----------



## ksSlim

Mike, I think you're on to something.
I usually look for the "newest" part to start with the typing.
Understand that some owners may have found parts "that fit"

Mfgrs. many time times used up "old" parts inventory to build new planes.
(don't think they ever thought their "disposable" tools would become collectible. )

Narrow the various parts to years of mfg, you may find overlap.
Use of existing inventory by mfgrs confounds some "experts" in tool collecting clubs.
I've been present at more than a few of their discussions.

Someones GrandDad didn't do you any favors.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Precisely!


----------



## donwilwol

try this and give me your thoughts,

http://www.timetestedtools.com/stanley-type-4.html


----------



## HorizontalMike

Don,
Now that is nice! Mikey likes it!

Just a thought here. Remembering how Chuck Hegedus typed out the Sargent castings so detailed, this is so reminiscent to the details he delineated. I wonder if THAT is why Dave Heckel passed on including all of those extra "types" in the Sargent ID guide? Hmm…


----------



## donwilwol

Since I've been putting this web site together I've been doing a lot of research on both the Sargent and Stanley. Sargent there is nothing except your thread on LJs and Heckels book, which everyone has trouble understanding the way he did a separate study for cutters and caps and the vagueness in every thing else.

Stanley is the opposite. There is a boatload of opinions, all which seems incomplete and flawed in ways so apparent, I have planes in my collection that contradicts it.

I'm going to keep working on it and if anyone wants to help, let me know!!


----------



## HorizontalMike

OK Don, let me add to the confusion with another suggestion… *;-)*

Since we collectors of BOTH types and all sizes also look for and collect appropriate cutters/blades, I was wondering if we/you could start a database of OEM cutter measurements for each size plane for what "should be" the NOS:


 NOS over all length of cutter
 NOS length of the cutting end
 BOTH above "as found" as an indicator of usage. Obviously this last one would be done individually by the owners in order to estimate % of usage (of blade and possibly of the plane). One would have to consider the condition "as found" to factor in us refurbers and the frankenplanes that are out there.

IMO, this might, just might help us determine just how much a particular plane may have been used. I understand that such a measurement might be a red herring in many instances, though in others it might be an accurate indicator of actual use. Just a thought…

FWIW, my recent prelateral #8 cutter is 7-1/2in over all length and the cutter end is a full 2in to the slot. Just guessing here, but that appears to me to be at, or nearly so, a barely used blade? And if the age of the blade matches the age of the plane then… See where I'm going with this? "...Just one more brick in the wall…"


----------



## donwilwol

I haven't mastered the database to a web site thing yet mike (at least not on godaddy) but I think a spreadsheet is a good idea. We need a way to do it that it doesn't add to the confusion like Heckel's separate studies do.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Exactly. IMO, it is those little correlations that can point out anomalies in a heartbeat. Things like my observations of horseshoe frogs on Sargent planes. Horseshoe planes *always* have pure brass adjuster nuts. Every one of the ~2dozen horseshoe planes I have acquired match that description, as do the dozens/hundreds I see on eBay over time. There are several other correlations, some known and others to be identified, that will eventually serve us well.

While not a spreadsheet, a dichotomous key may be the best way to approach this challenge.

A dichotomous key contains a series of choices that lead the user to the correct name of an item. "Dichotomous" means "divided into two parts." Therefore, a dichotomous key will always give you two choices in each step. Each step will lead to another independent webpage, though those pages can be short and sweet (or as long as one would like to make them).

When I was still teaching science, I would have my middle school students create their own dichotomous key through their own observations using candy as the medium. Much like the following:



The drawback of posting these type of hand written keys is that they take up a lot of space. A great way to start and layout the key, but IMO a web-based key would be more user friendly. Such as:

http://dnr.wi.gov/org/caer/ce/eek/veg/treekey/
Play with this one and you will get the idea.


----------



## Deycart

As I too go through a lot of planes, I would also like to participate. I think we should move this to a different post so we don't throw this one into confusion.


----------



## JayT

Mike, if you are going to do that, you might check out this part 1-20 of the hyperkitten site. Click on the "Date your Bench Plane" link at the bottom-it is pretty much a dichotomous key format for Stanley planes, one layer at a time.


----------



## donwilwol

We can continue here, seems relevant.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Fixed up my new old level I just bought. I'd love to work with it but it looks too darn nice for the garage.


----------



## DonBroussard

GT8-That Disston "Lumberman" looks spectacular! I have one similar to yours, and now you've made me curious if I can get an etch cleared up on it. Great job cleaning it up!

Travis-Nice cleanup on the level. Is that a SW No. 0? I have a "0" but no brass ends nor signs of there ever being brass ends.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Don, I think it's a 30. No markings except patent dates, which are all 1890s but what the real date it was made, no clue yet.


----------



## CL810

Nice job on the level CT. Don't get much better than cherry and brass.


----------



## racerglen

Travis I have one posted a while back that looks just like yours, 30" #30, but mine has the # stamped just above the sweetheart designation in the brass so that gives an age range on mine, it's also got the 30 stamped in the wood at the top of the brass on the top. Like them, neat tools, think yours is likely older than mine.


----------



## HorizontalMike

*Travis: "...Fixed up my new old level I just bought. I'd love to work with it but it looks too darn nice for the garage…."*

How so? Measuring "level" is not a destructive activity. I would be proud to to be able to use it in my shop. FWIW, I do have a much smaller 8in Spirit level that is ~100yr old or so, a Hockney Abby made in England.

My suggestion is to use it and appreciate as you WW.


----------



## donwilwol

A type 17 #5 restoration










And the after


----------



## CL810

^Kung fu magic


----------



## bandit571

Looks like the one I have









Not too different









This was as is, right out of the mail carton









I don't know, should I at least strip my handles, or leave them as is?


----------



## Tim457

Nice save Don.

Your's did come in in good shape Bandit. From what I can see from those pictures the finish looks good and I would leave it.


----------



## JayT

My latest, a Fulton 3708 picked up for $10 plus shipping. Same size as a Stanley #2 and made by Millers Falls. It's basically a MF #7 with a different lever cap and lower quality wood.

Before.










Now




























One interesting note is that the sides were never machined like most planes. They still show the rough sand casting texture.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice restoration and nice grab. The Fulton #2s usually go for decent money. That is a great buy.


----------



## upchuck

JayT-
I believe that those sides have been "machined". Just not machined to a very high level. The scratches are fairly uniform and all run in the same direction. The rough sand casting texture would be found under the paint. The toe of you "#2" is missing it's paint. I think that if you look closely there will be a different surface texture at the toe than there is on the sides.
I have never used or even held a "#2". I have always thought that they would be too small for my hands. I love my #3's and use them more than my #4's. I also love my block planes. Is that a #65 next to your "#2"? For $10 that was a major league score on a high quality plane. I would have snatched it up in a minute and tried first hand experience with my own hands. Thanks for showing it to us.
chuck (who is green with envy)


----------



## JayT

Upchuck, scratches are from sanding the sides to clean off the surface rust. Once I got enough off to realize that the texture was casting residual, not pitting, I stopped. Not sure what to do about it at this point. The block is a Craftsman low angle equivalent to a 65, I don't remember the model # off the top of my head.


----------



## upchuck

JayT-
"...scratches are from sanding the sides to clean off the surface rust." Of course. I didn't think of that.
"Not sure what to do about it at this point." Do whatever you like. It won't affect use. Do nothing and it still looks fine to my eyes. Polish it up to 2000 grit and it's shine would blind my eyes. It's all good. And still a screaming good deal.
I'd be interested in the model # of that Craftsman low angle. I passed up on a LA Fulton on Thursday at St. James Bay Tool Co. in Mesa, AZ. The blade was mostly use up and would have required some surgery to make it serviceable and $26.50 seemed a bit rich for my bottom feeder habits. I did end up with a new made blade for my #12, a couple of hammers, a couple of cold chisels, three 1 & 5/8th block plane blades (1 of them a 1919-1920 SW), three 2" plane blades (Stanley T11, a Fulton, and a New York Tool Works), a SW lever cap for a #65 sized plane with chrome problems and a half of a dozen other bits and bobs. A good day for me.
chuck


----------



## bandit571

Consider this the "Before" photos.









There is a Millers Falls No.732-10 10" brace. There is a Greenlee 1/2" gouge, inchannel
A 4/16 bit for the brace, and a file I bought just to get it's handle.

Grand Total? $7

Will post when they are all cleaned up and "presentable to the public".

Also picked a Scrollsaw for $10









It might take even longer to clean up….


----------



## HorizontalMike

I paid a bit more(+$50) than I like on this #411C on eBay, though Heckel's Value Guide put this one rather high in value ($300-$600). I have run full gamut on my feelings about this find. The casting ran from 1926-1942, but the frog has really confused me, in that it has the dual adjusting fork typical of the 1942-1950s Sargents. I have avoided collecting any POST-WWII Sargents because of the declining quality that began after the war.

With my #411C casting only going to 1942, and having a dual fork left-threaded steel adjusting nut, I would have to say that this particular plane must date right at the end of the #411C era (1926-1942). Looking at the frog/casting fit, it is exceptionally tight/perfect, the best fit I have seen in my collecting. Much better than what I was expecting from the dual fork frog.

Regarding the tote&knob, I am disappointed in the quality of the workmanship. The tote cut looks rushed/rough/incomplete shaping, but maybe that is just me being picky.

*BEFORE* Much paint over-spray and speckles over entire plane.









*BEFORE*









*BEFORE*









*AFTER*
Alcohol cleaning and wire brush



























Note chip out of the tote. I am considering whether or not to replace/repair.

QUESTION: Has anyone else come across a "solid-backed" TYPE4 lever cap? This one is even nickel plated (as is the frog dual adjusting fork).









The mouth of this #411 is milled down flush with the casting.









Look at how TIGHT the frog sits on the casting. Who ever milled this at the factory did the most tight fitting that I have found in all of my collecting. The leading edge of the frog is almost knife sharp (though a bit jagged).









Mahogany Tote & Knob - have not decided if I will refinish or not.


















These are the first "steel" nuts I have come across. I understand that copper/brass was in a shortage during WWII, so this all makes sense. The top of these nuts were brass plated for appearances.









And lastly, the "japanning" looks fantastic! I would venture to say +99% complete, and very thick. The milling of the casting mouth shows me that this is in fact the original japanning, and that has me smiling… **


----------



## DonBroussard

I picked up a Langdon/Millers Falls mitre box recently. I cleaned up the saw today. Hand sanding followed by mechanical cleaning using a non-metallic sanding brush. Hand sanded the tote-it was repaired previously and will probably need to be repaired again if the saw is used in the mitre box. I was not able to recover the very faint etch, which shows "Stanley". I did not see any letters that suggested "Millers Falls" or "Langdon" on the saw.

BEFORE:



















AFTER:




























Based on a few internet resources, it looks like the saw was born in the 1910's or so.


----------



## JayT

Mike, DonB, the restores look great.

upchuck, the Craftsman block is a model 3732.

Today's task, Millers Falls #10.










After


----------



## DonBroussard

Nice, JayT. You've been getting out a bunch of restores lately, and all are well done.


----------



## bandit571

Stanley Handyman #1248 ( or 1249??) as found









Looking a bit "neglected"









Hmm, well, after a rehab









looking a little better, had a few knicks in the iron's edge









Not bad for a $1?


----------



## donwilwol

A type 5 #3. It was missing the knob so I turned one out of cocobolo. I'll be making a new tote and when something comes in with an original type 5 knob, I'll swap them out.

before









And now


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## racerglen

Oh my.. Yoda, surpass yourself you do !


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## Brit

That's astonishing Don. I never would have though that was possible. What a transformation!


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## DanKrager

For those of you restorers vho use sand blasters I had a serendipity today. I don't have a good blasting setup so I improvised today using a very large zip lock bag. It worked beyond my wildest expectations. You can watch the process through the bag. You can handle the workpieces from outside the bag. Only one hand is inside the bag with the gun so the zip lock can be closed right to your arm keeping almost every bit of media in the bag. Next time I might even try to handle the gun from outside the bag.
DanK


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## donwilwol

Dan, that adds a whole new meaning to "sand bagging it"

Sand bagger!!


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## donwilwol

The only before picture. The was a first. It had a broken tote so I took it off and glued on a piece of rosewood. When I started sanding, I realized it was mahogany. Sure enough, its a Sargent tote. So the Stanley is now toting a brand new rosewood. I'll be cutting the rosewood off and adding a piece of mahogany.










And now



















And one more "DUH" moment. I've made and bought a few of these and never really got them to work. Well, the lathe spins much faster then the drill press. These things do work after all.



















Thanks again walker turner!


----------



## ToddJB

Is that just a buffing wheel, Don?


----------



## terryR

Todd, looks more like a sanding mop, or star. They are sold under several names, even flap sander. Work like a dream for removing material, but not changing the contours.


----------



## CFrye

Looks like a sanding mop, Todd.


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks guy and gal


----------



## donwilwol

I've never tried a flap sander but I bought a couple then made some heavier mops. They are not cheap and I wasn't pleased with the performance off the drill press. The lathe spins fast enough to make them work better. I may make a few more.


----------



## Brit

I should have read this first Don.


----------



## donwilwol

I should have read over there first


----------



## Bundoman

So I was given some cash by my family for Father's Day to go rust hunting this past weekend. There is a local garage sale weekend that occurs Father's Day weekend where there are 100+ miles of garage sales and shops that open up for shopping. It has become an annual event for myself, the Mrs., and a couple of my rust digging kids. We went out and hit 5 towns worth of citywide sales and found a few interesting things. As part of the trip, I also stopped by my favorite spot and found this rusty old beast. I have had a want for a Stanley 4 1/2 and although this one is far from perfect, it will make a good user. I will admit that I had to purchase a sad number 6 to get a useable iron and chip breaker. The lever cap on the 4 1/2 appeared to be from a Sargent so I added the newer lever cap from the maroon 6 also. I will be keeping an eye out for the proper lever cap going forward but this will likely be a long term user for my shop and will work fine like this for now. I just need to sharpen and tune a little more. Pretty happy with how this one turned out. I didn't know if this one would come around. Wood is from a donor Wards (Stanley made). My only disappointment is that the tote was cracked and it was a tight split but stayed more visible than I would have liked. Total cost for the 4 1/2 including the donor planes was 21 bucks and I have some good parts for other projects as part of this escapade.

Before electrolysis, and as my daughters would say….EHWWWWW!!!!
This is with the Sargent cap pictured.










After paint and donor parts applied…


















a few shots of the weekend finds just for fun. A mix of old, new and different. Even a DC power supply so I can set up another E-tank.










Oh! there was also this saw. It has a medallion and stamped as Simonds and has a pretty nice Stanley Sweetheart etch. The antique mall owner had a rolling crate full of stuff not yet priced and the handle was sticking up. I inquired and hesold it to me. $12.85.


----------



## chrisstef

Nice haul Brent. Sounds like a great fathers day in my book. I really dig those made for Stanley miter box saws but I just cringe at the thought of how long it would take to sharpen one.


----------



## terryR

Brent, nice job on the 4 1/2!

$21, huh? wow! Heck, I can cut that down to $16 if you wanna sell that Sargent lever cap for $5?

Steph, I cringe at how many boxes of sandpaper it takes to clean a saw that long…and the COST of shipping to have it sharpened! LOL. I have a restored 28" Simmonds saw, but no etch. Took a week to clean and restore!


----------



## Tim457

Nice restore there Brent and nice haul too. A little bit of everything. Nice saws, some molding planes, a hand crank grinder. That D-8 thumbhole looks nice.


----------



## chrisstef

Yea Ive got a 28" Disston sitting in my office awaiting a rehab and I get bring myself to it. Id guess that it would take about 3-4 hours to sharpen if its fairly good shape. But then again im probably slow. Err, scratch the probably.


----------



## terryR

Stef, you're faster and way ahead of ME!
Be proud! 
And happy late Father's Day!!!


----------



## Brit

*Terry and Stef* - Man up dudes!

I had the luxury of working from home today which meant I got to start the tongue and groove work on my workshop tonight. Should have that part done this weekend. Left the compound miter saw where it was and reached for my 20" Disston panel saw 12ppi. Gave it a tad more set as I was cutting softwood. Works a treat when ripping or crosscutting and tracks the line effortlessly. As Mads would say, I had a big smile.


----------



## ToddJB

Brit, was the T&G for the floor or walls?


----------



## Brit

Walls at the moment. I'm putting T&G over the lower half of the walls. You can see photos of the insulated area I'm covering with T&G. After that, I'll insulate the roof and board it between the beams. Not looking forward to that 'cause there's lots of compound angles and different shapes. After the roof is done, I'll insulate the top half of the walls and board that out. Then I'm going to insulate the floor and lay a bamboo floor on top of that.


----------



## ToddJB

Nice. Sounds like it will be cozy.


----------



## DanKrager

Here's what I was sand bagging, DonW. Etching glass is fun.








DanK


----------



## DonBroussard

Brit-Increasing the set for soft wood kinda makes sense to me. Pardon my silly question: do you restore the original set after the soft wood cutting is done, and if so, does that make the teeth more susceptible to breaking?


----------



## DanKrager

Brit, that does look cozy. Is this where the workmate gets to hang out then? You'll have to restore it just so it will look good in the new environment. I'll bet there's no videos on THAT!
DanK


----------



## Brit

No Don I won't restore the set. I normally aim to apply enough set to my saws so that they are at the minimum needed to cut softwood. That way, they work well in domestic hardwoods too. On this occasion I doubt I added more than a thousandth of an inch. In fact as I went along the teeth holding the saw under my arm, I could neither see or feel the teeth bending anymore than they already were, but it did make all the difference when it came to making a cut.


----------



## summerfi

DanK - that name plate looks really nice. How do you make the template, and what do you use for a resist?


----------



## Brit

No Dan, the Workmate will never see the inside of my little workshop. Once I've built a workbench, it will be given a Viking burial with can of gasoline. )


----------



## bandit571

Have a "Penny" Jack plane to restore









Penny? Yep that was the winning bid. plus S&H it was $9.96 Seems to be made by Millers Falls for Sears/Craftsman. A # 5C BB









Might take awhile to clean up….


----------



## bandit571

And the "After" shot ( after a good clean up and hone)









Might just be worth a penny?


----------



## Brit

Can't argue with that Bandit. Nice work!


----------



## Slyy

Wow all! Some nice work going on in here the last couple weeks! Been busy with fam and school but appreciate the chance to drop in and see some great restorations! Hope to get back to the garage and work on some over due restos myself! Carry on!


----------



## terryR

Andy, love to see progress on your shop! Even more so when you're using hand tools…much more satisfying!

Yes, it's WAY past time for me to man up to some saw sharpening! Have had the tools for over a year…just keep putting off the learning curve for instant gratification projects. ie…lathe! 

Plus, I had to 'man up' for some heavy foundation work on our 1860's home after the Professional crew was scared off by the amount of hard work! Then a roof on the chicken coop…440 square feet, then 2 new goat feeders since we suddenly went from a heard of 4 to 13! Then more fencing to keep lil chickys away from The Beast. Then a drainage ditch to keep the lil goats dry and give the pigs a prpper mud hole..plus trying to mow 5 acres of grass…jeez.

NOW, the top priority is prepping this house for sale, and moving to the other end of the country! So, my hand saws are sitting and watching the cheapo skill saw wear out blades. My new fav saw is the battery powered Makita 6" circular! Great for working up on a ladder, barely enough power to even kick back.

whine…whine…wine…

Promise I'll restore a plane soon! I'm starting to experience rust withdrawal!


----------



## Brit

Well after reading all you've achieved Terry, I take it all back. Teach me master, teach me.

Are you taking the livestock with you when you move?


----------



## Tim457

"plus trying to mow 5 acres of grass" - Isn't that what the goats are for? 

Does sound like you have a nice place that you've put a lot of work into, do you mind asking why the move then?


----------



## donwilwol

I've been lacks on taking before shots lately, but here is she is now. I just felt like some bloodwood.


----------



## terryR

^sweet. Love the lil bead at the base of the knob. Don's headed to another level of restoration!

Andy, all I could teach YOU is probably knapping. I'm pretty sure you already know more than I do about everything else in the universe! 

Tim, the goats do a pretty good job in their pasture…but I didn't fence around the house…so there's still grass to mow. Especially if we want to walk anywhere without wearing snake boots! Wow, the snakes are bad this year.

It's not like I've put a lot of work into this place making it beautiful…I've spent the past 9 years just trying to keep it from falling down. Had enough, ya know? Wife and I are ready for a new house, and she may even get a raise if we move to lower humidities! cool.

critters get eaten here. then replaced after the move. yum. bacon!


----------



## lateralus819

I'd love a set of those for my LN.  actually all my planes lol.


----------



## ColonelTravis

What a great looking plane, Don.


----------



## bandit571

Rust Hunt for $5 and it was all I had to spend today









Stamped into the other side: Millers Falls No. 14

Seems to be a Type 4 #14 smooth sole jack plane. Other than a chip out near the toe, NO CRACKS found. Wood is defect free! Brass everywhere! All parts correct! Might be fun to redo…

To be continued….


----------



## Handtooler

Bandit, I'm sure you'll bring her back to better than her original self! Post it when she's had a bath and polished, please.


----------



## TerryDowning

I like the type 4 Miller's Falls when they're all cleaned up. Even the orangey/red lacquered handles.


----------



## bandit571

All cleaned up, but haven't really worked on the iron, yet









It does have….issues









yep, has a crack in the side. sole isn't too bad, though









Might just sharpen th iron up, and see how it does









Just a $5 Jack plane…


----------



## Airframer

I finally finished my SW #246 Mitre Box. I still need to sharpen the saw up but everything is clean and ready to go so I am calling this done. I spent a lot of time trolling for the hard to find accessories and I was finally able to get this box 100% complete and am pretty excited about that.

I had originally planned to make a new handle for the saw but decided to just clean this one up and refinish it. The open handle is actually pretty darn comfy to use so I will probably keep it as is.

Some before pics..



























After.. I tried to get a pic of the etch but it is too light to get on camera but it does have a SW etch still!








































































Next up will be my SW #358.. gonna need more coffee I think.


----------



## donwilwol

Eric, that looks better than new.


----------



## ToddJB

Awesome job, AF


----------



## DocBailey

Fantastic job on the resto-I suggest a cross-post into the Miter Box of your Dreams thread


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Helluva job there Eric.


----------



## comboprof

Here is a ugly plane I picked up at a garage sale for $2.00:








It looks like the chip break has been riveted to the frog:








Its rusted solid. My question is should I restore it as is?
And try to find new parts? Restore it for parts? Junk it.
I have found no markings on it. Maybe someone could identify what it was.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Yikes - all those parts are screwed together?


----------



## HorizontalMike

I will pass on actual identity of this plane, though my general opinion is that it is post-WWII, very flimsy, has a generic hardwood tote, not worth the effort to restore. That said, we all pick our own levels of perceived value… Keep us posted.


----------



## upchuck

Don-
I think it's too early to tell just from those two photos. It looks like there is a plate riveted to the lever cap. (See timetestedtools for information about restoration and plane part names.) If, in fact, the lever cap, chip breaker, and cutter are all riveted to the frog then you have a unique design I've never heard of or a repair done by a drooling idiot. If that was my plane I'd try a bit of disassembly to see what I had. If the front knob and rear tote can be unscrewed then start there. If they are rusted stuck then penetrating oil and patience are what's next. Is it possible to lift the top cam part of the lever cap? That will give you access to the other parts that need to be inspected, cleaned, inspected again and evaluated. It's too soon to write this plane off as junk. Don't worry about taking it apart. I don't believe that you can hurt it. The plane blade and the wood are probably worth your $2.00.
Good Luck


----------



## comboprof

O.K. *upchuck* I'll give it a go. At least get it disassembled. The front knob is fine, (looks to me to be rosewood) but the rear handle is in 3 pieces. Maybe as an example of what a drooling idiot can do is indeed its special purpose.


----------



## donwilwol

i'd restore it.


----------



## upchuck

Don-
Rosewood is both good and a good sign. "...the rear handle is in 3 pieces." But you have all the pieces? And maybe a dab or two of glue? But put all of that aside for now. Let's see what's under the lever cap.


----------



## comboprof

*Don W*: Yes, but I think you would restore anything. Lol. Does restore to you mean to replace all the altered parts or to restore it as is?

*upchuck*: It will take some time I think for me to get to it. I could give it a soak tonight in evap-o-rust and try the penetrating oil off and on tomorrow.


----------



## donwilwol

> Does restore to you mean to replace all the altered parts or to restore it as is?
> 
> - comboprof


your gonna have to take it apart to answer that. The cap definitely need to be replaced.


----------



## Tim457

I agree with Upchuck, my best guess of what's going on there is someone had a lever cap that snapped and they riveted a piece of metal on both sides of the break to keep it together. Are you saying it's all rust welded together and you can't get the lever cap or anything else off? It's not a collector plane so give it a go on removing the rust with your favorite method like citric acid, electrolysis, or evapo-rust, and I bet they'll separate then.


----------



## comboprof

More on the ugly plane. I gave it a few shots of PB-blaster and got the screwed together lever cap off. Here is the backside. You can see a serries of drill holes which I suppose were an attempt to bend the top plate into position. Also included is the knob and tote. So now I am uncertain if it is rose-wood or not. Is there a definitive way to tell?







The rest of the plane looks normal. So all I would need is a lever cap and to rebuild the tote. I'm letting more PB-blaster sink in. When I get all apart it will go into the evapo-rust bath. SWMBO wants me to do some gardening now. I'll post again after the rust is removed. Then we can try to identify it. I agree its probably not a collector piece. The cutter and chip breaker look good to me. It is is 9" long with a 2" wide cutter. I may see if I can unscrew the the screwed together lever cap and see what if any thing is written below.


----------



## donwilwol

sweet. But the lever cap is toast. Is meant to be a conversation piece. A before picture. Something to brag about finding.

I'm thinking its early, maybe a type 5 or before base on the blown out back on that tote. You may need to make a new one.

Clean it up and restore it.

And show use the pictures!!


----------



## bandit571

Came in the mail the other day









and now the after









Frog is stamped as 408. This is a #3 sized plane


----------



## comboprof

Thanks, *Don W*. I haver her soaking in Evapo-rust and will look at it again tomorrow. I could not get it more apart. I hope I will after her bath. I sort of like this garage sale hunting. You might recall I did a couple of "easy" restores basically following your methods. This one will be more challenging.


----------



## upchuck

Don-
Yeah, that lever cap is toast. But if it was mine I'd hang on to it. As it is it is an example of a "field expedient" repair. That is always sort of interesting for me. I am not very good at that sort of thinking and I'm usually impressed by the solutions that others come up with to get one more hour, day, week or bit out of a tool. It may be that the lever cap cam, pin or spring could come in handy down the road someday. Toss those spare parts in a box or jar or whatever.

From your first photos, as HMike said, it didn't look like rosewood. But then you said maybe it was so I had hope for you. Rosewood was one of the woods that was frequently used on quality planes. Walnut, Mahogany, Beech, and other woods have also been used. Wood isn't a real big issue at this point.

I still can't tell if your plane is worth your time or not. Until I see some photos of both sides of the frog (bed where the blade seats and bottom where the frog and sole meet) it is still up in the air. Also after a bit of careful cleaning check the sole and frog for cracks, chips and repairs. If the frog is made of stamped, bent sheet metal then I would stop and cannibalize all of the parts off of it. If the frog is cast metal then report back with photos or at least every single marking, number, and or letter on the parts. Someone here will likely be able to tell you more about it then.

I still think that you got a good $2.00 plane. Worst case: More parts for the jar. Best case: A good plane for use. Carry on.


----------



## donwilwol

Saving the cap is exactly what I meant by Is meant to be a conversation piece. A before picture. Something to brag about finding.

it would be hanging on my wall in my office somewhere.

As long as its a cast frog, I believe it's worth a rehab. IMHO.


----------



## bandit571

This may be an all-in-one photo









Darn near minty, with box, Millers Falls #9. $10.69 counting sales tax. Might need a little edge renew, and maybe a clean up, but…..NO RUST! Darn it!


----------



## bandit571

There is a Patent date in the "v'" on the lever cap. No red paint on the Lever cap, either. Brass wheel is not one of them "solid" ones, has a recess in it. Price on the box was (when new?) $5.07


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## Woodscrapper

*STANLEY #2, Type 8*
Sorry, I failed to take pictures of the before. Anyway, I am pleased with the end results. It now works beautifully! Although the photos don't show it very well, the sole was lapped perfectly flat as well as the back of the cutting blade. The blade was then polished to a mirror finish and honed to a razor sharp edge. It was tempting to strip the old japanning and replace since approximately 25% is gone.


----------



## donwilwol

that's one of the nicest #2's I've seen!!


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## terryR

+1 to that!
Great job, Woodscrapper. An awesome plane ready for another 100 years!


----------



## bandit571

These two items showed up yesterday,@ $2 each. One is a square like object with a strange set of holes









Ruler arm is marked out to 7" long. All steel. had to wire brush it back to shine. NO NAME on it.

The other $2 find









X46 extention rule, 6' folder. Marked as a "Red End" Intact, almost minty. Been polishing the brass rule part.


----------



## racerglen

Bandito.. a drill size guide as well as a square ? can't tell from the pix if the holes are different sizes .. the folding ruler looks great !


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## bandit571

Might a marking gauge? Hold a scratch awl in a slot, and slide it along an edge to mark a rip line? Maybe one side of the slot for each side of a saw blade? Or, hold it dead center for a center line?

Shined out nicely, though. Was trying to find a Brand name on it….


----------



## comboprof

Update on the Ugly plane. I let it soak over night and manage to get all the screws off except one. When I get that off I'll post some more pictures. It is a cast frog. So if you can help me figure out what lever plate I need, then I will see if I can buy one. So stay tuned. Meanwhile I took a break to drive 30 miles north to buy this Number 8 Jointer:
























As you can see it is nearly perfect shape. Only the jappining is a little worn and in some spots flacking. There is a little rust on the sole back right, but I see no breaks or pits. It should clean up easy. In fact except for lapping the sole I really don't have to do anything to get it working. I'll give it a evapo-rust or citric bath and take a better look at the jappining The bad news is the granddaughter had sentimental attachment to her grandfathers jointer. Hence because it was in such good shape the best I could do was get it for $100. I think I only got it this low because I told them my intention was to use it and not resell it. That took a big dent out of my budget. It was the pasty festival and as a side bonus there were many many garage and estate sales. I could have bought of old wrenches, saws, bits and braces. I did end up with the following goodies:








The vice was $5.00 and the two Stanley's were together $5.00. So this lot was $10. Hence this morning I spent $110. Fortunately, my wife had a customer call her, so we had had to go back to her store and I went home. Fortunately, because I think I could have easily gone broke buying old tools today. (I almost bought a wooden level, a wooden plane, a brace and a half dozen bits.) O.K. I got to get these tools out of the kitchen before my wife comes home.
So back to the shop to wrestle with the last remaining bolt in the ugly plane.


----------



## upchuck

Don-
My experience with trying to "wrestle" screws and bolts out has not always ended well. I've thrown away plane sole castings because I was using brawn instead of seduction.
Try lubrication. Stick the parts in the freezer (you said the wife was gone right). Then when everything is nice and frozen use heat on the external threads. Patience. If you snap the head of that last fastener off the job becomes far harder. If you end up waiting until tomorrow (or Monday or next weekend) what's the harm?
Whisper sweet nothings to that hole. Tell her of your plans to clean her up, apply fresh oil and reunite her with her partner. I'm a fan of seduction not rape.
Also nice rust hunting scores. I especially like the #8.


----------



## bandit571

walk into the nearest auto parts store or even Walmart. Pick up a can of PB Blaster. Soak that bolts for awhile, and I mean SOAK it down. Then, try both a screwdriver of the correct size to fit the slot. Exact fitn o loosy allowed. Visegrip onto the shaft of the screwdriver (a LONG one helps) and a ball pean hammer. Tap on the handle of the screwdriver while trying to turn the screwdriver. Give a few tries, take a Dew break, and let another shot of PB Blaster soak in. repeat as need.

Watch out, though, as the bolt can break free of the rust and spin real sudden like.


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## DocBailey

*Don* wrote: "It was the pasty festival …"

Was this a meeting of pale skinned persons, or Burlesque strippers?

*Upchuck*: You've got to get out more often ;-)


----------



## comboprof

*upchuck* and *bandit571*: You will be happy to know that the bolt has finally came out. I was using PB-blaster and the right screw driver. I have the frog soaking. There are some numbers and letters on the lateral adjusting lever
that I can't quite read. I hope the Evapo-rust soak will help. Begins I think with "20". I did tell her if she cooperates I'll buy her a new blouse (lever cap).

*DocBailey*: Its Cornish pasty made here by the local Finns. Our dominate population is Finnish. Our pasties consists of a crust filled with diced potatoes, rutabagas, carrots, onions & ground beef seasoned to perfection. (I think true cornish pasties are better.) The copper minors would put them inside there shirts in the morning and take them out down inside the mine to eat for the midday meal.


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## donwilwol

*Don*, for the ugly plane, for the pool and first free beer I'd go with a Stanley type 5.

And we're gonna need more pictures of the block on the right. Are you sure its a Stanley and not a very early Sargent?


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## DocBailey

*Don* (comboprof) - thanks for the education

Now I'm hungry!


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## comboprof

*Don W*: The block on the right as far as I can see so far has no identifying marks. So you are probably right its not
a Stanley. I have it in the evapo-rust now. After dinner and after retrieval of the 4-H Kayaks I'll post the pictures of it disassembled. It came apart easy.

For the ugly plane I'll bow to your expertise (and my short internet search) that its a number 5. So where do I find a lever cap? Also what wood should I use to re-make the tote? I have on hand in the right thickness: Hard maple, Oak, Mahogany, Honey Locus, Red heart, black Walnut, Jatoba, Cocabola, birdseye maple, but nearby is an importer of exotic woods and I can get (almost) anything.


----------



## donwilwol

*Don*, I'm purely guessing on the ugly plane, but not guessing a #5, but a type 5. It looks like a #4, but match the size up with supertool.com

Does the block look like this ?


----------



## ColonelTravis

Woodscrapper - that #2 is impeccable.


----------



## comboprof

> *Don*, I m purely guessing on the ugly plane, but not guessing a #5, but a type 5. It looks like a #4, but match the size up with supertool.com
> 
> Does the block look like this ?
> 
> - Don W


I'll go check out supertool.com ( I really wish I knew what I was doing, what all the parts are called, what the different types are etc.) Here is the ugly plane disassembled and after an evapo-rust bath:









And here is the Sargent block plane disassembled and after an evapo-rust bast:









The blade: says Sargent & Co. Newhaven Ct
The toe plate: has the numbers: 306 316
It looks sort of like a Sargent 208, but the knob is metal not wood. The Stanley block is now taking a bath.


----------



## donwilwol

The block plane is a Sargent type 2 #306. It was made 1894-1909. A very nice find indeed. It's a good user and has some collector value. Be careful tighten the cap. They have a tendency to strip.

The ugly plane is getting less ugly for sure. Its NOT a Stanley. Union maybe?

Here some terminology help. I am currently working on a glossary type page.


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## upchuck

Don (comboprof)-
No doubt about it that one is a keeper. I like the flat non-recessed frog face you have. I also like the disc on the end of the lateral lever. Both of those things were used on planes when competition between manufactures was keen and quality was high. It is hard to tell from the photo but the Yoke on that frog looks a bit different to me.

There are no markings on the frog or sole? Not even "Made in USA"? Still, if there are no cracks in the body then that is a great $2.00 plane. Any of the woods you mentioned will work fine for the tote. I would stay away from the oak just because of the way some oaks react with iron/steel. But all will work. Your original tote is repairable. If you want to make a new one choose a wood that you have enough of to make a knob also. I just like planes where the tote and knob wood matches.

Maybe now it's time to start sharpening up the blade and do what you decide to do with the wood. I'm glad that the last screw came out without damage.

Carry on.


----------



## comboprof

*Don W* I agree I am beginning to think the ugly plane is not a Stanley… the lateral is too flimsy for a Stanley. Here is a closeup of the lateral:








Also the I now see that the blade has something written on it.
It begins with a big R that takes up two lines the top line is H??NCO
the bottom line is evonog

I hope that makes sense.

Also thanks for the info on the Sargent block.

*upchuck*. I'll probably make the tote and knob out of mahogony then as I have some even thicker mahogany that I can make the knob out of, but then again I have some 4 by 4 cherry and some thick enough hard maple. First however I need to nail don what this plane is and get my hands on a lever cap for it. There are no markings anywhere
on the sole or on the frog that I can see.

This is beginning to feel a lot like animal rescue.


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## JayT

With that clue, the iron is probably stamped "Revonoc" and "HSB & CO"

That makes it a plane manufactured for the Hibbard, Spencer Bartlett & Company hardware stores. The Revonoc line was named in honor of the employee who sourced many of their tools-his last name was Conover.

Edited to remove some info until finding confirmation.


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## comboprof

Thanks *JayT* I now think the ugly plane may have been a Rev-o-noc #4 smooth plane. How does that sound?


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## upchuck

Don(comboprof)-
I think that JayT hit it. Also is the blade tapered? Is it thicker at the cutting edge than it is up where the maker's mark is? Or is the blade the same thickness from edge to end?
Many animal rescues become beloved friends for life. The one's I've rescued have brought happiness and joy to the home. Nothing wrong with animal or tool rescues.


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## comboprof

The blade is tapered.

Also you (upchuck) wrote: if there are no cracks in the body then that is a great $2.00 plane.

Well we certainly have gotten $2.00 worth of entertainment from it.

I have serious question. I will have a visitor all of next week and this will interrupt the restoration. I'm a little worried that the rust will come back. What can I temporarily do to prevent re-rusting until I get a chance to polish and oil/wax?


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## ksSlim

Twister lateral lever might be a clue.
Union made em like that. 
Mark em for whoever paid for em.


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## bandit571

Get a rag and some 3in1 oil. give all bare metal a rub down with the oiled rag.


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## comboprof

*Summary and plans*.

This Friday and Saturday (June 27,28 2014) my garage sale search produce 4 planes.

The ugly plane which we have now determined is either a union number 4 smooth plane, with a renonoc blade
or simply a renonoc number 4 plane. It has a broken lever cap. Cost me $2.00. (I say number 4 because it measures 9 3/4 inches from toe to the end of the heal bump.)
The right block is a Sargent type 2 #306 made 1894-1909. Cost me $2.50
The left block is a Stanley. It is I think one of the #60s I think but have not gotten further with it. It has a blue finish. My cost was again $2.50.
Number 8 Stanley Jointer. Is in excellent condition and needs little restoration. Just lapping and a little shine. My cost was $100.00.

Incidentally Saturday was my 34-th anniversary. My brother visits all of next week. So I will have put aside further restoration. Planes 1,2,3 have been disassembled and put into the evapo-rust bath. I will wipe down the parts 3-N-1 oil down the parts as suggested for now. (If I have time I may work on the Sargent) I will would like to in the off hours try and hunt down a number 4 lever cap at a reasonable price for the so called ugly plane any help or offers would be appreciated. I could just keep searching until I find one. (Internet turned up another poster that also had a number 4 with a broken lever cap. I wonder if this was a common problem.) Off to Wal-mart to get the oil now.

Thanks to everyone for the help with this. It was fun and hope to bring you many more puzzels. I'll post after photos
second week of July.


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## upchuck

Don(comboprof)
Do what Bandit said to prevent rust. Any oil you have will do.
I have one Rev-o-noC bench plane blade. It is badly pitted and tapered.
I have held in my hands only one Rev-o-noC plane. So my sample size is too small to be sure of anything…but like yours it had no markings that I could find.
The tapered blade makes me think of Ohio Tool Co. DonW knows as much about Ohio T. C. as anyone I know. And Bandit had a Ohio #05 pass through his dungeon recently.
Worry about the lever cap as much as you want to. Do you want a lever cap that is historically correct for that plane (whatever it turns out to be)? Or do you want a lever cap that will give you a functional tool? I am still assuming that the blade width is 2". Yes? I have a spare 2" lever cap that I believe came off of a Bluegrass branded (Sargent made) Transitional plane that might work for you. It would cost you postage and a joke. Let me know.
Mahogany would be an excellent choice for the wood.


----------



## JayT

I'm thinking Ohio Tool as a possibilty, as well. I have only one recently acquired Revonoc, but like upchuck's, it has no markings other than the iron. The build clues lead me to think Ohio Tool on mine, though Union is also a possibility. Regardless, it is a well made tool and makes a good user. The lever cap is plain, with no markings on the top. It might be difficult to find a 100% correct cap, but a plain Stanley would work and look just fine, and be much easier to locate. You could do that until running across a correct piece.


----------



## donwilwol

Don(comboprof), the base is going to be the key. I don't think its an Ohio Tools. I've never seen a base like that, and since I've had very few Union planes, I'd lean toward Union, but we'll need to see one to verify. If you could post a better picture of the frog receiver and the underside of the frog, it may help.

Also the Ohio Tools with the washer type lateral had a more elongated profile.

This is an Ohio tools


----------



## donwilwol

I now believe that ugly plane is a Stanley made plane made in the Seigley plant. Its an unbranded Seigley made for HSB&Co by Stanley.

I don't think I have a Seigley of that type. I guess I'm gonna need to find one!!

Anyone? Can we compare bases?


----------



## bandit571

Union frog had the washer part above the pivot point.

Union base









Union #5A









And the frog. Note where the washer is.









Ohio Tool Co. #05 base


----------



## comboprof

*Don W*: Here is a photo of the frog base:









It looks to me to be exactly the same as in the pictures of the union that *bandit571* posted above.

*bandit571*: thanks for the photos and "oil" suggestion. I am such a greenhorn … of course oil.

*upchuck*: Yes 2" blade. I would of course prefer a historically accurate lever cap. But I think it will be hard to find, so for now I'd be happy to take the Sargent lever cap off your hands for postage and joke. Provided postage is reasonable, i.e. its not coming from say Australia. (Actually I have a way to get it to me from Australia.) I don't she should be exposed topless.

Note I added my last initial to the signature line. I.e. I'm Don K so as not to be confused with Don W. Maybe I should also change my nick. (It would be to confusing for now.)


----------



## donwilwol

The frog looks the same but the receiver (what the frog sits on) looks completely different.


----------



## CFrye

I have jumped into the world of wire bushing (on the drill press) and OH MY! This is gonna be fun!


----------



## upchuck

Hey Nurse Candy-

*GOGGLES! *
Speaking with a friend earlier this month who like you and I wears glasses and he was happy with that level of protection. Until while using a wire brush a small wire came loose and bounced off his cheekbone and imbedded itself into his eyeball. He was able to extract the tiny wire by himself after a while. But a couple of days later his vision started to get worse. He wasn't able to get all of the rust and gunk out with the tiny wire and infection became an issue. With surgery the medical professionals saved his eye and he hopes to regain his old corrected quality of vision back.
I believe that goggles and face shield is the fashion statement for the hip modern metal worker.


----------



## bandit571

Not all wire wheels are created equeal

Look fro the braided wire ones.

Do NOT have the item, or the wire wheel at eye level'

Gloves are nice, IF they don't get caught in the wire wheel.

You can use a pair of visegrips to hold parts while getting them them the brush. saves the smaller parts from flying across a room….never to be seen again. Besides, the pliers save you from burning a finger ( parts will get hot) or getting a finger or three wire brushed…


----------



## upchuck

Don K (AKA: comboprof)
Just to contribute to beating this dead dog until it is a bloody mash let me add some more confusion. This is the one and only Union plane I own.









This one has the shorter twist to the lateral adjuster lever and the pivot pin below the washer like Bandit's. Both of those are different from the OHIO that DonW pictured. Mine has, "PAT.APPL'D FOR" stamped in the lever.









The frog base where it meets the sole of the plane is similar to but a tad different than Bandit's. Note the machining around the frog hold down screws on the sole/base with Bandit's and no machining on mine. There are other differences in the mating surfaces also. I think it is a matter of age (type) of production.









My Union also has a few other features that are different from what I'm used to. The low front knob has a bead at the base of the knob. The blade depth of cut adjustment is right hand threaded (ie: as seen from the rear a clockwise turn decreases the depth of cut). The cutter/iron/blade that came with this plane has it's circular cap screw hole at the top of the blade. Lastly, this plane came with 4 washers on the 2 frog hold down screws.

Whenever I buy a bottom feeder plane I have no way of knowing if *all * of the parts are original of if some parts have been switched out over the decades. It doesn't concern me much. But I'm always happy to know if possible.
I had voted for your plane to be an OHIO mainly because OHIO and Rev-o-noC were the only two brands I've ever seen that used tapered irons/cutters in their metal planes. Now I'm sitting here in peaceful blissful ignorance.
And I will gladly pay up a beer to the winner of the "Guess What Plane It Is" pool as soon as a consensus winner is declared. Just let me know what brand to send.

Don K-
I have the Sargent Tranny lever cap out and I'll box it up later today. Because I don't know you I'll need to see your joke payment here in print before I mail it to you. If the joke makes me smile and is about planes I'll eat postage too. Pm me with your address.


----------



## bandit571

There were three "types" of Union planes, then after 1920 stanley got things messed up further, Stanley used up all of Union's part still left in the factory, then added what parts they needed from Stanley" supply

Unions did have a LOW knob with the bead around the bottom, and so did Sargent.

That Union#5A base is the same as the one I had. Same frog seat and all. thearly two types were right hand thread on the wheel, type 3 was a lefty, thanks in part to Stanley….


----------



## CFrye

> Hey Nurse Candy-
> I believe that goggles and face shield is the fashion statement for the hip modern metal worker.
> 
> - upchuck


Sorry to hear about your friend's infection. Rust ring in an eye can be nasty! I do wear my facesheild when wire wheeling.



> Not all wire wheels are created equeal
> 
> Look fro the braided wire ones.
> 
> Do NOT have the item, or the wire wheel at eye level
> 
> Gloves are nice, IF they don t get caught in the wire wheel.
> 
> You can use a pair of visegrips to hold parts while getting them them the brush. saves the smaller parts from flying across a room….never to be seen again. Besides, the pliers save you from burning a finger ( parts will get hot) or getting a finger or three wire brushed…
> 
> - bandit571


I'm thinking the brass wheels are not as aggressive as the steel. Is this correct? does braided last longer? more or less aggressive?
Thanks for tips!


----------



## upchuck

Bandit-
I sorta recall that your Union was a 5A. I sorta thought (knowing how dangerous thinking is with me) that 5A was the Union terminology for a # 5 1/2 size. Mine says "Union No. 5". What's the difference between "5" and "5A"?


----------



## bandit571

Union 5A was the same as aStanley 5-1/2. The Union N0. 5 used a 2" wide iron. Not much difference from a Stanley #5.

At one time, I had a Union #4 and a Union #3. The Ohio Tool Co 05 was their Crimson coloured line of planes. Not sure why. the iron was stamped as a Ohio Tool Co. Auburn NY

The Union #3 had a tapered iron but the union #4 did not . The hole for Ohio Tool co. was a hex sided thing, to get around stanley's patent on the round hole location Had a "SAVAGE" #6, with almost evrything Satnley except,,,,,,a hex hole in the savage stamped iron. My DE6c has a Union style frog,and a union style base. Or did, until it broke. The Stanley #6 base replacement has the frog bolt hole set a bit narrower than the Union ones.


----------



## upchuck

Bandit-
Thanks! "Not much difference" 
Yeah…but…I don't much like #5's. The #5 1/2's with a couple of extra pounds, an extra inch, and a blade that's 1/4 or 3/8 wider just sings to me. I also love #4 1/2's and I'm mild about #4's. For me #3's, #4 1/2's, #5 1/2's, and #6's are used 95% of the time.


----------



## Tim457

Candy I'm definitely a wire wheel convert too for things that aren't going to be decreased in value by the treatment. I use them on an angle grinder because that's what I have, but it really shortens the clean up time on some things and saves the evaporust for the things that really need it.

Yes the brass are less aggressive than the regular steel and the knotted/braided are more aggressive. It also matters how coarse the wires are. You can buy them as coarse, fine etc. The coarse knotted ones are used for cleaning up weld splatter and such so are fairly aggressive. Any steel wire brush is typically going to be hardened steel so it is going to scratch a lot of things, just depends what you use it on and how aggressive you are.


----------



## bandit571

Fives?









Did you say FIVES?

left to right: Stanley T19 #5-1/2, five number 5s and a four square 5-1/4 SW junior jack

The red one is the Corsair Scrub Jack. Two millers falls , a sargent, and a T17 #5.

Might have a few too many jacks?


----------



## donwilwol

For bare plane steel I use a course steel wire wheel. It will not scratch the cast. The brass is less aggressive and takes to long in my opinion.

Like bandit said, I like to wear leather gloves because the steel can get hot. Not hot enough to hurt the steel, but hot enough to be pretty uncomfortable.

I agree with the face shield. I've pulled a few of the buggers out of my cheek. And you may not have to worry about the wife Candy, but wash the clothes separate. My wife doesn't like it when those pesky wires transfers from my T-shirt to some item of her cloths that covers more sensitive areas, if you know what I mean!

I don't care for it either, but I don't typically bitch at myself for it.


----------



## Buckethead

My union #4 (Stanley scale)

In case this is useful.

I realized a few minutes ago that for the whole weekend, I've rubbed and scraped. Hoping to uncover tools for woodworking. I'm not sure I'm going about it right.


----------



## Slyy

Been ridiculously busy with school so haven't had much time with LJ's or anything out in the shop!
Went rust hunting yesterday and last weekend. Posted the first one over at the Brace thread. Not much to do on it other than take it apart and check the mechanism:

Stanley 10 inch 2101A made for and stamped: Bell System-B grabbed it for $5.
Really like the chunky look of the business end vs older style chucks:

















And yesterday's Millers Falls No 703A 14 incher, nice to have the power of a big brace and this one was $8!










































Old Tool Heaven says this is a 50's-60's brace. It seems to have a chuck very similar to the Lion brace but this is not mentioned at OTH. Don't have any Lions to compare directly so seems a little mysterious to me.


----------



## bandit571

This little saw was part of a three tool deal









It is that LONG thing laying there. Short saw was for parts. Got things cleaned up, a couple new holes drilled. Tote was sanded to remove the ratty old finish. New "bolts" are actually rivets. Re-installed with a ball pean hammer to "set" them. medallion is a Warranted Superior, with a Keystone in the middle









Helper handle was removed, cleaned up, threads inside were oiled. Re-installed just like the rivets, with a hammer to set the rivet.









The third part of this $10 "deal" was a frozen-up eggbeater drill









cast into the drive gear: GM CO. MFG INC L.I. N.Y. Didn't take all that long to clean and oil up. Works great now









Someone had left all thre hanging on the outside wall of a barn,,,,,


----------



## ksSlim

Not too bad for a tyro.


----------



## summerfi

Jake - what was your technique for cleaning up that Millers Falls? You've got that thing looking brilliant.


----------



## comboprof

Please forgive my lack of attention to the thread I know it takes precedence but my wife had other plans.

*upchuck* Here is the required joke payment.

It seems that Upchuck went to visit Don W late one afternoon and while Don was carrying on about his latest conquest on eBay Upchuck's eyes began to glaze over. Don inquired what was wrong. Upchuck then started to ask for a loan to help pay his wife's medical bills. "No way" says Don "I know your just going to use that money to by up as many union planes as you can", but Upchuck interjects "no seriously I need the loan for the hospital bill. Money for more planes I got".

If I win the pool on "name that plane" I what a "James Boag Draught" !


----------



## upchuck

Don K-
1) I smiled. 2) The joke was about planes. I'll put that Sargent tranny lever cap in the mail to you in the next day or so.
Since this is DonW's forum and since he proposed the "pool" and the stakes he gets to define the rules. At this point he has the most credible guess (see #3485 above). I'm out. I lost a beer to someone. DonW can claim he's the winner, do a victory dance, and let me know what flavor of beer he wants when he's sure.
chuck


----------



## comboprof

Upchuck: You are very generous. If I ever see you at a pub its my shout.


----------



## shampeon

Jake, a photo of the jaws would help. My braces are both MF Lions (772, 771). I'll try to snap a pic today so you can compare.


----------



## Slyy

Will do when I get home Ian. The distal part of the chuck rotates independently and has two sets of cutouts for the jaws to pass through. Kinda cool design.

Thanks Bob for the compliments. Though this time I think it's more the tool than me. As bad as it looked it was almost all absolutely surface rust and grime. The wire wheel on the grinder cleaned it up in no time with taking off any of the plating. Was pretty happy!


----------



## shampeon

Here there be lions!


----------



## bandit571

And a Samson chuck









and the entire brace


----------



## donwilwol

have you seen Wayne's brace thread? http://lumberjocks.com/WayneC/blog/38126


----------



## Slyy

Yeah that's what's weird Don, my chuck looks pretty much like Ian's.









But it has the Economy Jaws that OTH says were introduced in 1957. But no mention anywhere of a 730A with a Lion Style chuck. Perhaps it seems I have an oddity that does not fit into the known mould?


----------



## donwilwol

perhaps someone changed the chuck?


----------



## DonBroussard

DonW-I've heard of Frankenplanes, Frankensaws, but never Frankenbraces. I think I have a few of those in my tool box as well. Makes it harder to ID when the jaw is switched.

Slyy-I hope you post when you've done more forensics on the brace. It cleaned up really nice too!


----------



## terryR

Been a long time since I rock and roll…

Have had this Stanley 40 in the restore que a LONG time. So long, that I've lost 2 hard drives, thus no before photos. Here's as early as I have…near the bare metal with a bit of flash rust to deal with…










I also forgot to strip the paint on the lever cap, so did that this week.

When I first bought the plane, I intended to put it back to like new condition. Since then, I've mellowed a bit, and prefer the old patinated look. However, the paint removal had already begun, so I felt it should continue.

I had also planned a new tote and knob since I knew the old were cracked, but have decided to keep it as original as I can, so re-treated the cracks with epoxy, and applied black paint since it was obviously there before. First time I think I have ever painted wood!

And, after a few coats of Rustoleum 'Carbon Mist' on the casting (I was out of black except for gloss), and gloss black on the wood…hopefully my dirty hands will tone down the gloss…



















Sharpened to 8000 grit with a mighty bevel, then helping flatten a tough piece of African Cherry that I would never stick in my lunchbox planer…did great except for the curly grains…oh well, that's what smoothers are for! 










Thanks for looking!


----------



## theoldfart

8000 ? Overkill doood. Think mine went to maybe 320 -400!

Edit, BTW what size radius?


----------



## donwilwol

nice job Terry. Love it when I get to play with the scrub!............I'm not sure that sounds right??


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Don.

Kevin, I think it was a 5" radius? I measured it at one point, but have forgotten since I have 3 or 4 in progress, ya know?  I pretty much followed what was there from a previous LJ buddy by hand. Yeah, 8000 was serious overkill, but I was on my game and sharpening multiple irons! ALL had to be sharp enough to shave for the day to be a good one! LOL.


----------



## summerfi

I bought this plane at a yard sale last week. It's nothing special, just a No. 5 T19. In a way it is special though, because except for a couple of wooden moulding planes I acquired years ago as decorations, this is the first plane I've ever bought. The dozen or so other planes I have were inherited. It is in great condition and cleaned up nicely. Is this the first baby step down the slippery plane slope? Time will tell.

*Before*



















*After*


----------



## donwilwol

I'd say it needs a brother Bob. Maybe one older and wiser.


----------



## terryR

Nice one, Bob!
You did a great job on the base and sides!


----------



## bandit571

Remember this little rusty saw?









The large saw has been done, it is the smaller saw's turn. Went out looking for a couple parts saws today. Spent $6 for a couple saws, and a chisel.









Saw on top will need way too much work. The tote and bolts from the bottom saw came in very useful









A cleaned up WS plate, 8ppi, meet a new cleaned up tote, and steel WS hardware









As for that top saw…..Diamond Edge hardware, brass even. Tote has some cracks. Plate has an etch, but is still JUNK. It even has cracks in it. Teeth line in a big curve, with cows & calves for teeth. Trash?


----------



## BinghamtonEd

I don't know if it's restoring or not, but if it's destined for the trash pile, I would cut some scrapers out of the blade, and keep the hardware, maybe someone else on the forum could use it (or you could at a later point).


----------



## Tim457

Yeah me too. I've got some dead saws I'm planning on first practice tapping out the kinks and bends just to see if I could. You're certainly not going to make it worse. Then scrapers and parts.


----------



## terryR

+1 to keep vintage American steel…will come in handy…

Decided to clean my Sargent 5306 since it wasn't performing very well. Found the main culprit…iron wasn't near square! or sharp.

*Before:*



















The previous paint job was covering rust…that's why it's coming off in chunks! LOL. So…down to bare metal and repainted with Ford Semi-Gloss. (gonna add this black to that poor Scrub from the other day, too)










Type 5 iron re-squared and sharpened to 8000 grit…even added a micro-bevel of 4 degrees. So, if my arithmetic is correct, I ended up with an effective cutting angle of 44 degrees. Should work? 

*After:*



















Still some patina left…I like that. Anyone know if Sargent built these lever caps for anyone else, and didn't stamp their logo on? Not sure why this plane is missing the Sargent logo on the lever cap? Also, it has no markings on the underside.

And, honestly, my hands are too large to really use this plane for long full-width shaving work. The little adjusting lever sticks out so far that my palm always moves it. But, it's great at making those pasta shavings and small stuff like this…










...just one more pass and my line is gone.

Happy 4th Everyone!


----------



## donwilwol

Terry of the half dozen or so 530x I have only one is marked Sargent. I know they branded them for Craftsman. I haven't seen any others but I'm sure there are some others.


----------



## bandit571

Well, the first photo isn't for the squeemish ones









and the other side of things









Why didn't they paint just that rusty Sandvik? Well after a bit of work removing that ugly paint









This is that same rusty Sandvik plate, tote and hardware are temps, just so they don't run away.









This one was painted on bothsides, Warranted Superior 8ppi Brass hardware









Haven't a clue as to who made this one, also had paint on both sides, seems to be an 8 pointer
This saw had paint on just one side, the side WITH an etch









Disston D-8 according to the readable etch. Steel hardware, LARGE medallion, 8ppi. Skew back









Not sure if it will show up here, but there is an etch. The D-8 is inside the keystone. There is the French/Spanish Trademark info as well. Late 40s?

The BEST part? NO UGLY PAINT!


----------



## comboprof

I found this interesting online store: called the rust store. It has number of interesting products I have not seen, so I thought I would pass it on to you folk.


----------



## terryR

Excellent link, DonK! Thanks for sharing!

I rely on the internet for supplies since we live so far out in the sticks…THAT website carries all kinds of awesome stuff I'd never see in town at the Borg.

Gotta admit, I like cleaning vintage tools as much as using them! Every nook and cranny. But, I hate cleaning the house…not sure what that means? LOL.


----------



## comboprof

. Remove this post please .


----------



## comboprof

Wow *terryR*. You have a Borg. I wish I could be so lucky. They are a 2 hour drive for me.

Going out now to make the rounds of Auto part stores, True Value, and Walmart to see if I can find Fluid film.

I just finished cleaning/polishing a Stanley no. 9 1/2 block. Looks great. The blue Japining is perfect shape. I'm working now on a Sargent type 2 #306. When I finish it I'll post the pair.


----------



## bandit571

Before









Just a eggbeater drill









Everything was froze up. Got it apart, cleaned and oil up. Still ,it needed something else









Like a new red coat?









Looks a bit better now. GM CO. MFG INC L.I. NY.


----------



## bandit571

A Craftsman 3/4" wide Stainless Steel chisel showed up in a pile of….stuff









Handle was split, and taped together









The thing in front is an old file handle. Got the taped up mess off, loaded the file handle into the lathe, was a bit hard to line up. Tool rest was TWICE as long as the handle. Scraper, skew, Gouge, and parting tools, then some sanding. never got the lathe out of Granny Gear…









Wiped on a coat of stain to seal it, then wiped the excess back off









looks a wee bit better, now. Oh, and the edge need some work, so it was reground, and sharpened back up. Stainless Steel Chisels?????


----------



## racerglen

Bet it's not 440 stainless either Bandit or any of it's cousins..


----------



## superdav721

More info
http://chiselandforge.com/tools/brazing-planes-aircraft-carrier/


----------



## bandit571

Dave: LOOKS GOOD!

As for the #8, just love it when them shavings fly up out of there, and wrap aroiund my wrist.

Millers Falls #14 type 4, I think.


----------



## Tim457

Very cool Dave, good stuff.


----------



## Pendragon1998

This is my first restoration. I'm sorry, I forgot to take any before pictures, but if you can imagine a rusted up piece of junk, that's what this Stanley No. 4 looked like. No major pitting, but pretty evenly rusted all over. The side of the plane body has a big piece chipped off the upper side, but the plane appears stable, so it's just cosmetic. It should work fine as a user. Actually, I was glad it was chipped, because it gave me the courage to work on it without the fear of ruining a nicer piece.

I took this opportunity to construct an electrolysis cell out of an old PC power supply, which I used to remove all the rust from the iron pieces. I used brasso on the brass. Then I sanded the wooden parts to 320 grit and gave them a few coats of danish oil (medium walnut, IIRC). They came out very nice and smooth (the photos make them look speckled, but they are very satiny and even in person.

I'd welcome any comments.


----------



## donwilwol

To bad the side is broke. That came out great.


----------



## Mosquito

An old screw driver I got from my grandfather.


----------



## comboprof

I got the same or similar screwdriver from my grandmother.


----------



## donwilwol

I love those screwdrivers. They ate great for getting rusted plane screws out. Smack 'em with a heavy ball peen hammer as you're turning, they work great. I've got several different sizes.


----------



## upchuck




----------



## upchuck




----------



## comboprof

I once handed mine to an electrician…. he wasn't happy.


----------



## donwilwol

yea, they're not ideal for sticking into live outlets.


----------



## comboprof

SO who made them…. any history?


----------



## comboprof

Finished with the blocks. 

Left block is a Stanley No. 9 1/2
Right block is a Sargent Type 2 No. 306
Befor: (Pictured also in post #3461)










After:










Second photo was at night so the lighting is not right. Sorry.

As a bonus here is a little wrench that belonged to my grandmother that I put in and out of Evapo-rust. Works good.
Has "CLEVER" stamped on it followed by the numbers 86 …. I think.









Oddly enough there is a whole web-site devoted to old wrenches: Papawswrench


----------



## upchuck

It's my impression (I can't quote a source) that those screwdrivers were first made by the H.D. Smith Perfect Handle Tool Company. I've also seen chisels and draw knives in the same style. After the PH Tool Co. dozens of others made screwdrivers in that style. I have several that say Irwin on them. I see them sold as Jeep tools sometimes (Part of a repair kit from WWII general issue Jeeps?). I also have some marked Pexco. Ryan, Fulton,
Germany, and a half of dozen other companies.

I like them for the weight and feel in the hand. Plus it is a good way to use up those tiny cut off scraps of special wood that too small for anything but too nice to toss. I generally see them at the bottom of rust piles with one or both of their handle scales missing. I usually pay a quarter to a couple of bucks for one. Never more than a couple of bucks.

The original handles scales tend to present an oval cross section. I try to replace them with a more circular cross section. Especially the ones I have that have their tips "sharpened" to exactly fit plane screws. The oval cross section enables more torque and makes it easier to snap off the heads of fasteners leaving the threaded part in the casting. I need to get to cracking and get the pile converted into usable tools.


----------



## summerfi

See this link for a discussion of one of these perfect handle tools.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/62216


----------



## j1212t

Dear professional rust-hunters, a quick question:

I am a rust hunting virgin, but I found a rust-dealer who I am planning on visiting. I have my eye set on these 4 saws:









The one on 2nd row from top on the right and from the 3rd row the first 3 on the left hand side.

I need a saw for dovetailing and also a donor for a kerfing plane. How much would you pay for these 4 saws, I don't have more pics and they don't look to be in great shape. But I have no experience what so ever, so any guesstimates would help me a great deal!


----------



## chrisstef

Youre talking these saws Jake?










That full size one I have circled interests me. That's an English style handle with the flat bottom. Id be a little suspect on the teeth though, they look pretty big. The other 3 I cant say much about but from where I sit I would try and get em for $80 or less. $20 a pop seems fair, id shoot for 10-15 a piece though.


----------



## j1212t

Thanks a lot for your input!

Yeah I was talking about these 3 you circled + the on on the right in the second row. The large teeth scare me as well, I don't know that I need them that big.

I'll probably go check them all out during the week and try to score some interesting rusted stuff, you guys have really inspired me here with your awesome restorations.


----------



## terryR

+1 on the cool factor for those perfect handle tools…

+10 on how nice they are to use! Garrett Wade usually has new ones for sale reasonably priced. They just need the tips modded to be square…










Jake, I'm not sure I'd mess with that backsaw outside of stef's circles…has a custom tote, but the plate looks really bad. Grab that stair saw next to the 3 stef circled…just for the cool factor!


----------



## bandit571

Usually, on rusty saws of any kind…I will pay up to $5 each. $10 and I will walk away without a saw.

On the right of the three in the circle….IS a "kerfing saw" already made. Just add a fence and go. I would pay maybe $7 for it.

Used to have one HUGE Perfect Handle screwdrivers…16" LONG. Someone liked it better than I did…..


----------



## planepassion

I'm with bandit. Between estate sales, garage sales and flea markets, I've consistently picked up quality saws in the $5.00-$10.00 range. Several, I've gotten for free. Yes, they needed some smithing, but after I did that they've been very fine users. And since I sharpen my own saws, it frees me up to buy whatever without worrying about shipping somewhere and paying someone else to do it.


----------



## superdav721

The screwdrivers are awsome


----------



## summerfi

Some flea market finds from the weekend. The bevel gauge is a Winchester #9758. The medium size square is a Stanley SW No. 20. The other two are unmarked. The smaller square has significant pitting. Rosewood all around, freshly re-blued steel, waxed and polished. If anyone here is a Winchester collector, I would give you first dibs on the bevel gauge. Otherwise these will go on ebay, except the Stanley square, which I will keep.

*Before*










*After*


----------



## bandit571

Might have it's un-marked twin









No markings at all on it. Brass is the same pattern









All i have done is polish the brass a bit.. 6" along the top of the blade.


----------



## summerfi

I found a site for typing Stanley squares. Mine is either a type 5b made between 1921-1922 or a type 5c made from 1923 to 1935.


----------



## theoldfart

Bob, thanks for posting that site


----------



## bandit571

Jake: the table those saws are sitting on? Look like a table I rebuilt awhile back, with new wood









I re-used the legs, and used two of the aprons. Aprons served as Patterns









And cut some new ones in Walnut, The NEW top was a bit of a Plain Jane









Just three boards, from a single plank of walnut.

And to keep this plane oriented









A bit older photo, of a block plane that needed some work done to it…


----------



## 7Footer

Some solid work going on here fellas!

Hey all of you citric acid users, how much per gallon have you gotten the best results from?


----------



## shampeon

I'm not super precise. It's probably something like 2 tablespoons per gallon, but I just sort of eyeball it and mix it up. After an overnight soak, I scrub with an old Scotchbrite sponge and gauge whether it needs some more time.


----------



## 7Footer

ok cool, yeah I saw on Don's site that he said 1/4 cup for his 24" window box but I think I'll need something close to that, I have a huge container that i got so I can do saws and stuff… I've been on the evaporust for a while but it would take a lot to fill this container up enough.. Thanks!


----------



## comboprof

You can buy a 55 gallon drum of evapo-rust from the rust store at only $715 plus shipping. Then you could just suspend your saws vertically in the drum. Probably would last a long time. LOL


----------



## john2005

So awhile back I picked up this guy. Long enough ago that I don't remember what I paid, but I'm sure it wasn't more than 10-15 bucks. The plate was pretty pitted so I took it out and let Bob have a look at it. I decided that maybe replacing the plate was the way to go. I picked up a new plate from TGIAG. Originally it was 12"x3 1/8" and 14 ppi. The new plate is 12"x3 3/4" and 13 ppi. Still pretty fine teeth and had I to do it over, I probably would have went more like 11 or 12. But this is how we learn right? The tote just needed a cleaning and some wax. The spine took a little more attention though. After the evapo bath it needed a little straightening. I think it came out all right. Once it was assembled, I took it back out to Bob and he put a nice good edge on the teeth. Thanks Bob for your coaching and help. She cuts like a dream.



















Yes it has two medallions. I kept both just cause










And now























































I apologize for the pics. I forgot to resize them before uploading and photobucket is so plesent to work with…..
You get the idea though


----------



## ToddJB

Gorgeous, John. And what a blessing to have such a sage just a few miles away.


----------



## donwilwol

excellent john. I just took its small dovetail brother apart.


----------



## theoldfart

John, nice restore. I think I'll move to your neighborhood, think they'll accept an old New England liberal with old tools ans saws?


----------



## summerfi

Glad she's cutting good for you John. She turned out to be a sweet little saw.


----------



## john2005

Thanks again Bob, couldn't have done it without your help.

Kevin, this town is full of liberals, we'd take you, especially if you come bearing tools. . Just don't vote for any more roundabouts. They want one everywhere… Scratch that, I work in a body shop and they are really good for business!


----------



## theoldfart

John, think I peed in my pants at the roundabout thing. That's the latest cause du jour here abouts. Then the Mass holes have no idea how to drive in them. Stop for no reason, go when there 's no time or room! Liberal thinking stupid execution as allways.


----------



## terryR

Great work on that ?Jackson back saw, John and Bob! Looks like a strong user for another lifetime of pleasure!

Edit: I visited Boston ONCE…as far as this southern boy can tell, the general rule at a roundabout is go as fast as you can and cut off everyone else! I guess a 4-way stop is too slow for those yankees?


----------



## chrisstef

Lol. Your catchin on to the new England way of thinking Terry. Drive fast, take chances.


----------



## 7Footer

John that saw turned out great, nice job.


----------



## john2005

Thanks boys.

Glad I could offer some entertainment Kevin.


----------



## comboprof

Can anyone identify this spokeshave? I looked at all the pictures I could find online. It did look similar to some, but the handles and cap were always different.

*Before:*










*After:*


----------



## comboprof

Is it a A.G. Bachelder ? Seymour Smith & Son No. 1? Sargent No. 11?


----------



## comboprof

Here is a Stanley 67 spoke-shave (flat sole):

*Before*:










*After*:




























While my brother was visiting lats week I remembered I had some old tools collected. Found them and they included the two spoke-shaves above and the type 2 Stanley 71 Router-plane below. There is also a wooden plane I'll show later.

*Before:*










*After:*










*Note:* for the Stanley 67 I am missing a nut and the 1/4 inch blade. Where can I buy them?

*Update:* By the way I am still working on the ugly plane. Also three books arrived today: G. Hack, "The Handplane Book", R. Hock, "The perfect edge" and L. Lee, "The complete guide to sharpening". I also have ordered the Veritas Mark II honing guide. So I promise soon I will post pictures of shavings.


----------



## donwilwol

More pictures and some Info


----------



## upchuck

Comboprof-

Sorry no help on the spoke-shave ID. *Any *markings on the blade or body? How wide is the blade?

Nice #67.

Good luck for finding blades for your #71. I, too, would like to find some. Lee Valley (Veritas) sells new ones that might fit your older model. I'm sure that I have an extra nut but those are fairly easy to find. Just be careful to get one that has the correct threads to fit your Stanley. Stanley threads aren't typical by 21st Century standards.

Your three books are all worth reading and keeping. My copies are well worn (falling apart) and I refer to them often. I like the Hock and the Lee books a lot. 80% of the information is duplicated between the two volumes but that extra 20% is worth the price for me. I like them both and don't have a preference between them.


----------



## JayT

Dang, Don, that's a beaut!

Had to read the blog bit, as my first thought was that it's a Siegley-now I understand why.


----------



## donwilwol

comboprof, nice job on the #71. As JayT said, that nut is pretty common. Pick up any old unusable Stanley or Stanley made with brass hardware and you've got your part. You'll get a lot out of those 3 books to.

Thanks Jayt. I knew of Hahn, this is just the first one I've had in my hands. To be honest, I just assumed it was a Seigley to until I got back to the truck. I was pretty happy to find out it was a Hahn.


----------



## SamuelP

Nice restore Don. What happened to the rest of the blade?


----------



## donwilwol

ha…you guys are not paying attention. I somehow got the after picture of the Siegley. Its fixed now!!










Even more pictures than before


----------



## comboprof

*upchuck* The St. James Bay Tool Co. (located at 122 E. Main Street in Mesa, Arizona) sells replacement parts for Stanley. If I don't find a knob nut by February. When I visit ASU I'll drive down to mesa and get one. I can't see paying $3.50 for a nut and $4.95 more for shipping.

There are no markings on the blade or body of the older spokeshave. The blade width is 2 inches, the height is 1 7/16 inches (at its rounded peak) and has a uniform thickness of 1/16 inches up to the start of the bevel.

*Don W* Thanks for the compliment and the look at the older spoke shave. I have started using various wire brushes on a hand drill and I am getting better results then just hand sanding and scraping. I clamp the plane to a saw horse
and bear down on it with the rotating wire brush. Next to get a buffing wheel set up and possibly a grinder. But quite frankly first I need to do some other work too, this restoration business is getting addictive.

*Plans* I hope to soon set up a restoration station and a sharpening station. I just have to find room for it. Today I was supposed to build a wall separating my wood shop side of the two-car garage from the soon to arrive tenants car side of the garage. Instead I spent the day sorting through and putting away tools and doing minor restoration.


----------



## DonBroussard

DonW-Beautiful job on another plane I've never seen nor heard of. I actually did a double-take, thinking that it was a different plane.


----------



## DonBroussard

comboprof-Nice restores. I like your No. 71. Do you have any idea of its type and date?


----------



## DocBailey

comboprof's router is from the mid-to-late 1880s


----------



## comboprof

*Don Broussard* According to this Stanley No. 71 Router Type Study it is a type 2 and made during 1885-1888. (I found no nickel plating so I think it is not type 3.)


----------



## DonBroussard

Thanks Doc and combo. Wow on the age and condition! Another vintage tool I've never seen. I have a No. 71 but it's much more modern.


----------



## upchuck

Comboprof-

I live about 11.5 miles from St. James Bay Tool Co. ASU is half that distance. I go and visit/buy stuff from Bob Howard (the proprietor) every month or two.

It's sort of hard to find and shares a retail space with a telescope shop (I believe those proprietors are Bob's in-laws). The sign out front is for the optics shop and I don't recall that the tools part is even mentioned. There is a hand lettered sign seeking "Old Tools Wanted" and below that "Old Guns Wanted" in the window. There is currently serious road work going on as they put in an extension of a light rail system and Main Street is all torn up. On my last visit I parked a block or two away and walked. I expect the construction work to continue for 18-24 more months.

St. James Bay is an interesting place. There is a mixture of old vintage tools and new manufactured tools that Bob either makes or has made for him from his patterns. The old vintage stock is constantly changing so it's worth it to me to stop in when I'm in the neighborhood. His hours are non-traditional for a retail store and I've never seem him there on a weekend. The telescope shop people are friendly and try to be helpful but they are not knowledgeable about the tool shop stuff.

I'm guessing that half the small building is for telescopes and the other half is St. James Bay. Of the St. James half I'd guess that 2/3 to 3/4 is for the machine shop/manufacturing and the smaller part is for retail sales. When I am there I always try not to kick over the telescopes that are on display. The bottom feeder goodies are on the floor in crude wooden boxes/crates under the shelves. I sit on the floor and sort through the boxes for $1-2 rusty parts next to multi dollar optics on tripods. Call me before you visit to check the hours of operation.


----------



## comboprof

> Comboprof-
> 
> Call me before you visit to check the hours of operation.
> 
> - upchuck


You will have to PM me your phone number. I will very likely be in your neighborhood the first week of February, but of course it is not yet certain.


----------



## 7Footer

Don, super cool plane. Looks really nice. I totally noticed the initial incorrect 'after' pic. ;-)

Really cool spokeshaves too.

I picked up this Stanley #9 1/2 a couple weeks ago with plans to give it to a buddy of mine who has let me borrow some tools and also picked up the Sargent Autoset 722 for me…. I didn't do a full restore, just a de-rust, re-grind of the bevel, flatten sole and iron… I kind of neglected to take any good before pics, it was pretty rusted though.









The sole was pretty bad

















A little oak








poplar








fir









I think I'll still give my friend the plane, although I really like how it performs, but I do have the Sargent equivalent, I'm sure I'll come across another one someday! I'm hoping that by giving him this one he will start down the slippery slope.


----------



## chrisstef

Combo - ive got 2 spokes that are exactly like yours. One is marked Seymour Smith on the iron and the other is unmarked. The only difference in the unmarked one is that the holes in the handle are slightly smaller. I can grab you a pic later tonight if youd like.


----------



## comboprof

Yes *chrisstef* that would be good, please post a picture of the two spoke-shaves. Are the caps the same? I looked at many many pictures online but among the similar usually both the handle holes and cap were slightly different. I finally found a match on e-bay claiming to be an A.G. Bachelder. Googleing A.G. Bachelder. I found a reference that claimed it was copied by Seymour Smith & Son and then again by Sargent. But I do not know if these sources are authoritative.

*General question*. I feel that Don W's restoration forum has been hijacked and turned it into an old tool identification forum. Should we start a new forum?


----------



## terryR

DonK, IMO researching the date of the old tool, etc, is an important part of the restoration fun. I bet there are others who feel the same here? No problems on asking for help with ID…

DonW, awesome job on the Hahn…pretty sneaky with the first after shot! LOL.

My stoopid question for the week…are the bottoms of transitional frames usually japanned? I mean the whole metal part that screws to the wooden base. Restoring a Sargent now…been completely painted on the bottomside! The paint came off easily since it was poorly applied, but I cannot tell if the surface was originally japanned?

Any thoughts?


----------



## donwilwol

are the bottoms of transitional frames usually japanned YES

I feel that Don W's restoration forum has been hijacked and turned it into an old tool identification forum.

No problem from my perspective. I love any old tool information, and like Terry stated, its part of the restore process.

pretty sneaky with the first after shot That's it!! It was intentional to see who's paying attention. Yes 'ir, that's it!

Great job on the 9 1/2 7. Pretty hard to part with once they are all nice and pretty isn't it!!


----------



## bandit571

Rust hunt treasure today: Bought a nest of saws, and a wood bodied level. Nest of saws isn't too badly rusted. The level will take a while to clean up all the Brass on it. Cleaned it a little bit, found a name and a number for it:

Stanley SW No. 3 Both vials are intact and working. No cracks in the wood, no missing screws.

Price for both items? $1.00

Picked up a knob handled hacksaw, wood handled like a chisel. decent blade. Will clean up to find if it has a name or number on it. Stamped as from Darrington Conn. USA. Name in a box, but can only make out the last three letters " _ NON. Price? Level









Level ( FREE)









hacksaw, from Darrington, Conn. USA









A Hacksaw with an etch on the frame. Oh, them cheapo nest of saws









They look unused, just rusting on a hook.


----------



## JayT

Don, I actually did notice a couple things on the after picture right after I posted. The two main ones were that I was wondering what happened to the letters behind the knob and the tote looked really different. I don't have the rank yet to question the Yoda, so figured I was missing the letters because of shadow and the tote had to be replaced. Looking back, there were several other clues.

Now that I know you are giving tests, I'll study better.


----------



## comboprof

O.K. great. I will continue to hunt and ask for old tool identification information. I did not want to step on anyones toes.


----------



## chrisstef

Will do combo. To the best of my knowledge both caps are the same, only the handles are slightly different. Ill dig them out and post some pics this evening around 730 or so.


----------



## donwilwol

Again, I don't have any before pictures. Here is a Stanley #3C type 11. I offered this up to Terry for his #3 collection, but luckily he already had a #3, then I realized, my type 11 collection has a #3, but not a #3c.

The tote was slit almost completely in half, so I manufactured a new rosewood tote. Its now resting quietly beside its #3 sister.


----------



## planepassion

[Homer Simpson voice] "Mmmmmmmmm…Stanley Type 11 number 3…."


----------



## chrisstef

Here ya are combo. The front most spoke is the one with. Seymour smith & son iron. The other 2 are unmarked.


----------



## comboprof

Well the blade is like the front two and the handles are like the back two.
How wide are your blades and what is the distance between the handle tips.
My blade is 1.75 inches and the handles measure 8.75 inches between the tips.

Where is the front one marked: as Seymour smith & son iron ?

By the way I sharpened the blade on mine and it works good.


----------



## bandit571

Been cleaning an old level up. It has some traces of red paint on it, the brass around the vials is very cruddy. The flat areas are easy to clean up. But, around the vials will be a bit tricky to do.









Area around the vials is black. Looks like steel screws holding the brass plates.









Brass plates on the ends are in good shape, need a polish done, though.

Level is a Stanley SW No.3


----------



## summerfi

I picked this up at a yard sale on Friday for a quarter. It's a Stanley SW No. 54. I tried to clean it up just enough to make it readable without losing the "old" look.

*Before*









*
After
*



























And in a related story, when I brought it home and showed my wife, she said, "Oh, I have one similar to that, only smaller." I said, "You do; where did you get it?" "In a box of stuff at a yard sale a while back. I didn't really know what it was." "Well let's see it!" She goes to the china cabinet and gets it. I look it over-a Stanley SW No. 36. I open the brass caliper slide, and inside are the initials SMS.










"I don't think you got this at a yard sale," I said. "You don't? Why not?" "Because it has my dad's or granddad's initial's inside." (They both had the same initials and put them on all their tools.) . Turns out, she actually found this while cleaning out our youngest son's room after he recently moved away from home. It was part of a small group of tools that, as a small boy, he retrieved years ago from my dad's shop after his death and after most everything had been picked over. So this little rule will now rest in my vintage tool chest with it's brothers. My son can come get it whenever he wants, but that likely won't happen in my lifetime.


----------



## CFrye

Nice find and story, Bob.


----------



## donwilwol

Great recovery Bob.


----------



## terryR

Thanks for sharing that story, Bob. You are lucky to have vintage tools you are related to, IMO!

Mine is a Stanley 36 1/2 R, love taking it to the Borg in my shirt pocket to measure 1/2" vs 5/8"...usually gets a stare from the older generation…










This one took an extremely light cleaning with turtle wax rubbing compound only…


----------



## DonBroussard

Very nice story, Bob. I'm glad you're keeping it in the family, and I hope your son appreciates it later. Both of your new measuring tools came out sharp!

terryR-I have an old caliper that I picked up. It's not a family piece, but I do bring it with me when I'm out antiquing.


----------



## comboprof

Wow. I'm going to have to get me one of those.


----------



## DocBailey

*Paging Don W …*

Attached hereto are a couple of photos of a plane I have long since sold.
It is, I believe, the somewhat rare 1952 Victor 1103 to which you refer in your article on Victor planes.
Not the greatest shots, but the only ones I have left.

It is as found at a garage sale-totally untouched-I just wiped it down with mineral spirits.

Feel free to use these on your site-information on the lesser Stanley lines is thin and I appreciate your attempts at aggregating it.


----------



## donwilwol

thanks for the pictures. I think I'd have had a hard time parting with that.


----------



## bandit571

Stanley SW #3, 24" Cherry and Brass level, the before









Someone had painted this red









Well, under the red paint and tarnished brass









There might just be something nice









Hardest part was cleaning the vials









But for a Retired Army Guy, Brass shining is easy to do









Part of a deal, a nest of saws (Eclipse) and the old level…$1 Working on cleaning the saws next.


----------



## DocBailey

Don

I didn't say I had no regrets, but it did bring north of 200.00.


----------



## comboprof

*Some questions.* So I'm going garage sale rust hunting this coming weekend and I'll ready see in some craiglist posted garage sales a picture of some old rust that included a couple of levels and a block plane (the common Stanley 9 1/2 I think). so heres my question: What is a price range I should try for on various tools: In particular: Levels, saws, braces, augers, chisels, files, measuring sticks, shaves, etc. You can also include blocks, smoothers, scrubs and jointers, but I think I have most of that down. Maybe I don't for wooden planes. All in all I think it might be a good plan to have such a list. So that we know what is a bargain, normal price, extravagance. It would certainly help me a bit. Of course if you are purely a collector and just have to have it, then you'll pay anything.

BTW the prices on e-bay range from low to ridicules, so its not much of a help.


----------



## donwilwol

Don K, your list would be pretty long. I've got books and books trying to answer the "what's it worth" question. It doesn't matter if you're purely a collector or a guy who needs for it this week end's project, it will up your need, so it will up you price.

I could say your #9 1/2 is worth about $8, but what if its a type 1, what if it has a broken mouth, what if its a handyman? Maybe its a craftsman. It all affects value.

If you think EBay's prices are from low to ridicules, what until you hit the garage sale / flea market circuit!


----------



## comboprof

Don W, I certainly understand. Its just with regard to say levels or saws. I have no clue on what I should pay and no clue what I should be looking for. By the way I have only shopped the garage Sale/flea market circuit. The problem with garage sales is if your not first on the scene you miss out. If your are first on the scene it is more difficult to negotiate and if you arrive near the end of the sale, then whats left is usually over priced, but easier to negotiate down to about half the asking price. Estate sales are some times easier. Often you have people just trying to get rid of there grandparents stuff as fast as possible. I'm just a little frustrated. I suppose with experience it will be easier. May this picture from the craiglist garage sale announcement will help:










You can see two levels in the upper right corner and a very rusted Stanley (?) block in the front.

Sale begins Saturday Noon.

The more I look at this and their other pictures. I'm guessing they might be in the "professional" garage sale business. So prices might be high. We'll see.


----------



## donwilwol

I understand your frustration, so I can give a few pieces of advice. 
First, start buying books. 
Second, try to focus on one thing unless its real cheap.
Third, research everything and don't worry about the outcome
Third, accept the following facts. 
Forth, if its not fun, its not worth it, find another hobby.

If your going to buy tools to collect you will:
-pay to much for a piece just because you don't know
-pay to much for a piece just because you want it
-leave a piece and get home and research and find out you made a BIG mistake
-buy a piece for what you think is a great deal and find the flaw during clean up
-buy a piece and find out its not what you thought it was
-sell a piece and then wish you hadn't

But keep in mind, the reverse of each line can also be true.

Happy hunting


----------



## terryR

DonK, I feel your pain, hope this helps…

http://thesawblog.com/?p=1004 an article on choosing rusty saws.

http://lumberjocks.com/Brit/blog/24957 our own Andy's Blog series on choosing and restoring braces.

Wow, planes are so varied, that's a tough general question to answer. My advice is to watch eBay for a particular plane and see how much 10 of them sell for…taking condition into account on each one…and form an average price in your head. As Don mentioned above, this can be tough since a Sargent Auto-Set 714 would complete MY collection, so it's worth a lil more to me, than someone else just starting the same collection.


----------



## theoldfart

> If your going to buy tools to collect you will:
> -pay to much for a piece just because you don t know
> -pay to much for a piece just because you want it
> -leave a piece and get home and research and find out you made a BIG mistake
> -buy a piece for what you think is a great deal and find the flaw during clean up
> -buy a piece and find out its not what you thought it was
> -sell a piece and then wish you hadn t
> 
> - Don W


 Yup to all, some more than once!


----------



## JayT

Wise words from the Yoda.



> If your going to buy tools to collect you will:
> -pay too much for a piece just because you don t know
> -pay too much for a piece just because you want it
> -leave a piece and get home and research and find out you made a BIG mistake
> -buy a piece for what you think is a great deal and find the flaw during clean up
> -buy a piece and find out its not what you thought it was
> -sell a piece and then wish you hadn t


Yes
Not yet
Yep-still kicking myself over a couple of them
Yes
Yes
Yes



> But keep in mind, the reverse of each line can also be true.


Yes, here as well.


----------



## terryR

One more, Yoda…

-have an item lost or destroyed in shipping!


----------



## Tim457

Don's totally right of course. The values vary so much based on who made them, what condition they are in, whether they are a rare item, and where they are being sold, in other words how many people are willing to pay how much for them.

I don't know anything about your area, since some areas have much higher prices, but here's a stab at a starting range for you to look. At a garage sale, always try to be the first one there, and their price is often worth it. You'll start to get a feel for it as you walk around. If you pay on the low end of the ebay range for things that are in decent shape, you're going to do pretty well. The books and resources Don has will basically help you identify the ones that are worth more.

Levels - probably shouldn't pay more than $10 unless you can identify a valuable one. Check the vials.
Saws - don't pay more than $3 unless you can identify something about the saw that makes it clearly worth it, such as 1800's medallion and good condition plate and handle, etc. Check straightness and temper. Terry's sawblog link above is great.
Braces - most you can get for $5-10 unless they are valuable ones. If you follow andy's advice linked above you'll get a great one. The smaller sweep braces like 6" and the bigger ones like 14" are harder to find and worth a bit more. They are useful.
Auger bits. - $1 each is common. Check the threads on the lead screw are near perfect and no pitting on the outside of the spurs. A complete set in very good condition is worth $100, but can be had for less once in a while. Special ones are worth more. Usually the ones you find are in bad shape so be persistent, the bad ones aren't worth anything.
Planes - vary by model of course, but #5's and #4's you shouldn't pay more than $20 at a garage or flea market again unless you can identify something that makes them worth more. #7 and #8 are bigger and worth more. $100 isn't awful for a #8 in good shape. Stanley bedrocks in good shape, no cracks are easily worth $100 and more. Wooden planes aren't worth much unless you can identify a specific one.
Chisels - I've paid from $.10 to $1 each, but if you see something really nice like a pigsticker or many of the older high end brands they are worth more.
Files - From $.1 to $1, very common, so keep looking till you find the cheaper ones. Run your finger down it to try to feel how sharp it is.
Shaves - If you mean spokeshaves, I don't see these as commonly, but $10 is a a good price unless you can identify a valuable one, which there aren't that many.


----------



## DocBailey

Don K

All of the above is a round-about way of saying that learning the old-tool buying business consists of attending the school of hard knocks.

No one can hand you the answers. For one thing, the prices are constantly changing. Take a look at my post #3617 above-that plane wouldn't fetch 200.00 today. When will the market be that hot again? Who knows.

I've been buying old tools for many years. What I decide to pay is not governed by what someone printed in a tool collectors book from 1994.
Neither are the prices set by that online auction house. Persons who live in tool deserts will pay dearly for tools which are readily found where I live. In other words, a plane at a garage sale where *they* live will cost a heck of a lot more than a plane from a garage sale where *I* live.

You're going to make mistakes-we all did. Your best bet is dollar cost averaging. I have so many tools now, that my average cost of a bench plane is about 10.00. I've paid less for some and more for others.

1) Don't try to buy everything the first month - as if you have to grab the last of the tools before they all disappear.
2) Learn from your lessons - this is tied to number one above; buying a lot, as a novice, likely means that you bought a lot of junk.
3) Be patient, and remember, there are a lot of tools out there; the fact that you didn't see them the first week you really started looking doesn't change this fact.


----------



## ToddJB

> 1) Don t try to buy everything the first month - as if you have to grab the last of the tools before they all disappear.
> 2) Learn from your lessons - this is tied to number one above; buying a lot, as a novice, likely means that you bought a lot of junk.
> 3) Be patient, and remember, there are a lot of tools out there; the fact that you didn t see them the first week you really started looking doesn t change this fact.
> 
> - DocBailey


These are very important and something that I, as a relatively new old tool amasser, have a hard time with. Especially numbers 1, 2 and 3

Wait - thats all of them.


----------



## donwilwol

> One more, Yoda…
> 
> -have an item lost or destroyed in shipping!
> 
> 
> 
> - terryR


Thanks Terry. The LOL made my day a little better.


----------



## jordanp

Great Advice Don!

I haven't done a whole bunch of hunting in the wild but plan on it in the near future.

I've actually been hunting on what i like to call an "Antique Tool Reservation" a friend of mine is an antique tool dealer and usually has hundreds of new pieces each month most of which are users some of which are collectables.
It isn't always as cheap as the wild but i know what i'm getting because he takes the time to inspect, clean and sort the good from the bad..


----------



## comboprof

Wow. A lot of responses. To many to thank each of you individually so I thank you all. I think to sum up it takes experience and I will stumble across gems and make mistakes. Thanks for the links above and I will head the advice to by more books. I like books. All sound advice…. I think.

I read through thesawblog and I dug out the old saws that belonged to my Grandmother.

I remember as a small child I'd sit in the front yard with the tote of the rip saw between my knees and try to play the saw just as I saw it done on the Ed. Sullivan show. It is only today I see that it has a nib and has been stamped "J Butcher Shefield" and near by "Warranted cast steel".

The crosscut has an etching with "the STANDARD made in U.S.A." written across the middle the words ""Warranted cast steel" around it in an outer circle and some other detail to the etching. How do I clean this saw and preserve the etching or even make it more visible. The saw blade has a dark patina and only a little rust.


----------



## donwilwol

you probably should post that saw over here with some pictures.


----------



## summerfi

Yes, DonK, post some pictures on the saw thread. I'd definitely like to see that Butcher.


----------



## b2rtch

gt0915, how did you clean the blade on your saw.
I mean I know how to clean a blade but how did you get so shinny (like new)?
Thank you.


----------



## Mosquito

I've got a Butcher backsaw waiting in the queue to get cleaned up and restored as well


----------



## comboprof

As requested I posted pictures of my grandma's two saws on the saw thread.


----------



## chrisstef

Combo - sorry for delayed response but here ya go:


----------



## comboprof

So my spoke shave is the same size as one you show measured. But I have "holes" in the handles. I don't know what that says. I would guess one in a "copy" of the other by a different manufacturer.


----------



## chrisstef

The stamp is Seymour Smith & Son combo.


----------



## donwilwol

a Type 6 Siegley No. 4 circa 1896. Its a pre-lateral and well before Stanley bought him out.

Before




























And now


----------



## b2rtch

Beautiful !
Don, question: how much a place like this one is worth?


----------



## ToddJB

Woah. Awesome. I like it a lot! Do you think they used some sort of stamp for the detail in the tote?


----------



## ksSlim

Nice checkering on the tote!
Do you do gun stocks too?


----------



## donwilwol

Todd, they used a stamp. Because it was broke, and the stamped checkering was so bad, I hand cut it back in.

Bert, I'm not really sure. Probably in the $100-$150 range in its current condition.


----------



## donwilwol

I've been know to do a firearm or two Slim.


----------



## CFrye

Beautiful checking, Don! Can't even tell it is present in the before pics!


----------



## lateralus819

Nice job Don. Really beautiful plane there. Did you paint it or just clean it up?


----------



## donwilwol

its been painted. all that was left of the original japanning was a few specks here and there.


----------



## 7Footer

Great stuff going on here, Don that Seigley is a beaut.

Now I just need to fix that chip off of the tote, and find a blade…... I'm not going to buy the one I found that is in Australia but after looking closer it doesn't seem like it has a whole lot of life left… For the most part though this 722 is in solid shape.






















































Here's a pic from the Sargent page of an iron:









And here is the one for sale in AU:









Am I right? ^ doesn't that one look like there isn't much life left?


----------



## chrisstef

I would just check and see how far you can advance the iron out of the mouth 7. It does look a bit short though.


----------



## comboprof

*7Footer*. I really like your photos showing mid restoration that include the tools and liquids of the trade and I particularly like the finger peace sign carving. Oh and the Sargent 722 is well done too.


----------



## comboprof

Rust hunting today I picked up a Stanley 3 level ($3), a Diston saw with a nice medallion ($3), a tri square (1$) and a Stanley 67 spoke shave. Here is a group picture:










I'll do the restoration later. I've 3 planes ahead of these to do plus the shop rebuild to finish oh and my wife comes home from her trip so I suppose there will be other things to do. But I want to draw your attention to these giant tweezers I got for 1$.



















What are they and what were they used for?


----------



## donwilwol

7, I'd wait for the next one. Not much meat left. One will come up.


----------



## 7Footer

> I would just check and see how far you can advance the iron in the mouth..
> 
> - chrisstef


Story of your life?
There's a saying in Portuguese: Ferro na Boneca - which basically means 'put the iron in the doll'

Thanks Combo…. I like to post pics with a little subtly in the background. Actually the only reason why my peace sign hand is in the shop is because it was under repair a couple weeks ago, my wife said the cable guy knocked it off the shelf it sits on behind the TV but I don't think I'm buying what she's selling, now she says I should keep it in the shop/man cave…... Convenient huh….. 
Here it is mid-repair though:









You say giant tweezers, I say giant roach clip.


----------



## bandit571

Ah, THE Fickle Finger of Fate?

Looks like I have a bit of rehab work coming up









Couldn't talk the price down on the 22" Miter saw, so it was $5









Same with the Dunlap plane, they seemed to think a Sargent made #306 block plane was $10. Will clean it up, as well. Just have to see IF there is any hidden gold in there.

Saw is supposed to be a 22" Kromedge Satin Cut. Seems to be straight, and still has sharp teeth DAMHIKT…

Back roolers are a bit sticky, need a clean up and a bit of oil to get them moving…

BTW: saw bolts have a square drive head, not a slot.


----------



## upchuck

Comboprof-
What's up with that #67(?) spoke shave? What's the blade width? And is it's "sole" flat or rounded?

Bandit-
Is that block plane on your miter box the Dunlap (in the last photo)?
Thanks


----------



## bandit571

Upchuck: Yep, that is the Dunlap block plane.


----------



## upchuck

Thanks Bandit,

I had already asked the question before I went over to the Hand Plane forum and had the answer. Sargent made like a Stanley #220? Non adjustable mouth?


----------



## comboprof

*Upchuck* My mistake, I meant a Stanley 51 spokeshave not a 67. (I must be tired) flat sole, 2 1/8 inches wide.


----------



## bandit571

Ok, the before of the Craftsman Mitresaw









22" rust bucket. First the saw was cleaned up









then the base









put it all together









it is even sitting on my saw bench

not too bad for a $5 saw?


----------



## racerglen

Not too bad at all, nice score. I'm away from the shop or I'd snap a couple of my craftsman box, it's mostly aluminum and came with a 28" German made craftsman saw. It seems a lot less fancy than you have, not so many bells n' whistles, maybe missing bits ?


----------



## Bundoman

Millers Falls number 11. I believe this is a type 1. This one wasn't too bad as it appears someone did some cleaning to this one at an earlier time. The lever cap is a little rough and needed a fair amount of attention. Not bad results overall. This is the first plane I have of this size and it does work nicely.

Before:



















After:


----------



## donwilwol

wow!! a type 1 #11. that's a fantastic find.


----------



## Bundoman

I did not find a lot of information out there to know for sure if this was a good one or not. Glad to hear it. It seemed a little unusual for size and I liked the price too, so I brought it home. This is another one from the local antique mall. I could stand to learn some things about photography though. The pictures aren't always the greatest.


----------



## TerryDowning

You have a real beauty there nice find.

Old tool heaven is the best resource I have found for Millers Falls tools.

Bench Plane Type index That is definitely a type 1
No. 11 is a Stanley 5 1/4 equivalent.

The pricing guide values this between $60- $110 since it's a type 1 put it at the top of the value range unless the condition is really poor. These are rarely seen in the wild.


----------



## Bundoman

Thanks a bunch for the update and information. I bought this one and a MF number 10 similar to a Stanley 4 1/2 on the same trip. I didn't get that one cleaned up yet so didnt include a picture of that one. It is not a type one but is pretty nice. I hope to get it done soon. That was a good week as I also saved a functional Delta 8" jointer from the scrap man for 25 cents a pound. Pictures soon as it is nearly cleaned up. It did not need a complete overhaul, just blades and a little cleaning.


----------



## jordanp

Can't see the rust very well in the photo but it's covered.
The handle didn't even turn when I bought it..

Here is the results


----------



## ksSlim

string loop and a foot pedal and you can grind with no help.


----------



## CFrye

Jordan, that thing sings! Great job!


----------



## terryR

Nice work, Jordan! And such a useful tool, too! I frequently spin the right wheel on my Baldor by hand so I can use the left wheel at slow rpm…NEED one of these guys badly.


----------



## ToddJB

Looks like a great user, Jordan. Nice job


----------



## comboprof

Just to keep my hand in I worked on the tri-square I got in my last rust-hunt shown here. I flattened the bend that was at rule mark 1 with a ball-pean hammer using my cast iron table saw top as the anvil. I should probably get a better anvil. I'll need to straighten out the Disstan saw also shown in the above link. So the tri-square was sort of practice for that. I also used some gun blue to see how well that worked. I am not sure I liked it. I painted the whole ruler and then sanded it off with 400 grit using simple green as a lubricant. It was a lot of work to get it off. Brasso on the brass, and scrubed the wood with the (paste wax, BLO, murphy oil soap)-mix. So here it is the after photo so far. Should I leave it as is or proceed to finer grit? Also I don't know who was the manufacturer or when it was made. Its pretty though and only cost me $1.










(I need to figure out how to post better pictures. What I see on my laptop has more detail then what I see displayed above. For example you can clearly read "made in U.S.A." under rule mark 1 on my laptop, but I don't see it in the preview.)


----------



## hans2wiz

This is my latest handplane restoration. It is Vostov No42 from my childhood. Luckily plane condition was good enough, that only removing rust, sanding and couting with Osmo oil varnish restored the old state.


----------



## donwilwol

I don't believe I've ever heard of Vostov before. Is it about a#1 size?


----------



## hans2wiz

> I don t believe I ve ever heard of Vostov before. Is it about a#1 size?
> 
> - Don W


Don, it's Russian company and all old models were copies of Stanley. Here is useful resource: Russian Hand Plane Central

I haven't seen #1, but it can be in that size.


----------



## yuridichesky

*Hans*, my guess that this is not Vostov, but Voskov plane.

There must be a *< B >* logo like this on the plane:










*Don*, the Voskov was the largest woodworking tools factory back in Soviet time in Russia, but now it's faded away. Have a look here if you're interested: http://russianhandplanecentral.blogspot.ru/


----------



## hans2wiz

> *Hans*, my guess that this is not Vostov, but Voskov plane.
> 
> There must be a *< B >* logo like this on the plane
> 
> - yuridichesky


Yes, my bad. Voskov is correct.


----------



## Mosquito

hans2wiz, that restore turned out great. Really looks nice now


----------



## donwilwol

A "B" Plane (More pictures and some history)
Before









After


----------



## j1212t

Very well done hans! And Don of course on point as always. You guys are so good at this, currently all i seem to get done is to get them in working condition. I never get them as pristine looking. currently working on an old wine barrel restoration which is very fun in a different way. Wood is so much easier to clean!


----------



## Bundoman

Me likey! Well done once again!


----------



## TheFridge

http://neworleans.craigslist.org/tls/4584426494.html


----------



## bandit571

Just about done









The before, this is what came home with me.









All cleaned up, sole flattened, wedge tuned back up. Eyes were gled up, that is the reason for the c clamps. Iron WAS sharpened back up, then slipped through the body and onto the Dungeon's floor. Not quite a direct hit, just one corner of the edge hit the Concrete floor in the one cleared spot on the floor. No shavings to catch ir's falll. Figures. Pics of shavings later.


----------



## comboprof

*Ugly plane epilog* Finally got back to the restoration of the ugly plane that we discussed starting at post 3437. Here was the original before picture:










I did a partial restore and we had a long debate but finally his eminence the holy restorer (a.k.a. Don W) proclaimed it to be "an unbranded Seigley made for HSB&Co by Stanley" with a field repaired lever cap and broken tote (two pieces and a blown out heal). I repaired the tote, shined up the metal and repainted sole. Here is the after picture:










Then *Upchuck* sent me at his own expense a Sargent lever cap (I had to pay for it with a posted joke about planes) and here is the result:


----------



## comboprof

Rust hunting this weekend I picked up 4 planes, three saws, a Disston and sons sliding t-square, a Stanley tri-square an egg beater drill, and a never been used grinder with new stones. If you like I can post pictures of the rust, but I won't get to the restoration later.


----------



## donwilwol

*Don k* the rust hunt finds go here http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/41460


----------



## comboprof

Thanks will post them there.


----------



## donwilwol

I somehow lost the screws and fittings for the fence. I don't know how, I thought I was being careful with them. I also lost the screw to the Y that holds the wing nut for the cutter tighter. I'd love to restore one of these and NOT loose anything!!


----------



## CL810

WOW!


----------



## bandit571

Ohio Tool Co. #81, before









and an After Rehab photo









and a shaving photo









Seem to just fly out of there..


----------



## DanKrager

Wow indeed, DonW. Was that thing used for, a boat anchor? It's good to see it get inside for some TLC. 
DanK


----------



## jordanp

*DON!* you old dog you! look at that 55! holy smokes she was a pitiful sight now she's back to her former glory


----------



## comboprof

I need some more education. I'm in the middle of restoring 3 planes, that I picked up because they looked like they would be a challenge. The tote of the first one is all intact but the varnish had mostly worn off. So I sanded the rest of the old varnish off and I am ready to re-finish it. It is pictured to the left in the image below.










I would like it to look like the tote on my Miller-Falls on the right. In town I cannot find the danish walnut oil that Don W uses. The stores available to me are Wal-mart, True Value, Sherman-Williams otherwise its drive 2 hours or order online. I did find both clear and mahongony paste carnauba wax made by TREWAX. My thoughts are min-wax walnut stain, poly, and then paste wax. How does this sound? Also has anyone used the mahongony paste carnauba wax?
Does it darken the wood?

My other question is, what up with red-purple stain in that tote? What causes that? What was the wood to begin with?


----------



## 7Footer

Wow Don, great job! Bandit, you as well, nice rehab on that woody!

I was hanging out at my friends house over the weekend chilling at his pool and he said that he had this old plane that he wasn't sure what it was and if it was any good, but his Dad had given it to him (this is the same friend I gave the quickly rehabbed Stanley 9 1/2 to) and he couldn't figure out what it was…. Upon quick inspection I determine it is a sweet little Stanley 60 1/2 low angle with some weird number on the blade. I really didn't do much to it other than a soak in citric acid, wire wheel cleanup and a quick blade honing, it is in pretty good shape, I still need to do a little more honing on the blade and maybe check the sole, but it cleaned up quick and fast. I think he's gonna be pumped when he uses a tool his old man used 30+ years ago….. *that is IF I give it back to him*!
The Before:


















The After:

















Testing on some walnut, fir and oak


----------



## JayT

> In town I cannot find the danish walnut oil that Don W uses. The stores available to me are Wal-mart, True Value, Sherman-Williams otherwise its drive 2 hours or order online. I did find both clear and mahongony paste carnauba wax made by TREWAX. My thoughts are min-wax walnut stain, poly, and then paste wax. How does this sound? Also has anyone used the mahongony paste carnauba wax?
> Does it darken the wood?
> 
> My other question is, what up with red-purple stain in that tote? What causes that? What was the wood to begin with?
> 
> - comboprof


The red purple stain was used by plane makers when they switched from rosewood to generic hardwood totes-I think many times it is American beech, but could be some other light colored native hardwood. They used that crappy stain/finish to try and make the wood look more like an exotic. If it is starting to come off, I usually just strip it completely and finish however I want. Never had any luck finding something that looks similar. Believe it or not, the one thing I have found that comes closest is Bombay Mahogany Polyshades. (and I really don't like Polyshades, but that is the closest I've found.)

Your local True Value store can order Watco Danish Oil in Light, Medium, Dark or Black Walnut. It's in their warehouse, even if the store doesn't stock it.


----------



## comboprof

*JayT* thanks of the education. I was going to ask at my favorite True Value, but the manager (a former cabinate shop woodworker and now a scroll saw expert) who actually knows something about wood working and gives me deals has gone on vacation. But I am equidistant from two of these stores so I think I'll check out the other. If that fails I'll order the danish oil.

No the other True Value doesn't stock t either. I guess I'll order some.

Does anyone know if danish oil will slowly degrade the wood like BLO does?


----------



## shampeon

Don K. - I've never heard that BLO degrades wood. Danish oil is primarily BLO, pigment (if not natural colored), and driers. Regardless, I wouldn't worry about it. I've got a couple of saw totes well over 130 years old that have probably only ever seen BLO-based finishes, and they're still going strong.


----------



## comboprof

According to:

"The WoodWright's Companion: Exploring Traditional Woodcraft" by Roy Underhill:

Page 7
"Current thought, however, is that, like all enjoyable things, linseed oil may have a bad effect. It apparently feeds an enzyme reaction that softens and slowly (very slowly) degrades the wood. The preferred finish now is some sort of microcrystalline wax. Carnauba wax is good and is readily available. The linseed oil is perhaps best used on new things that you have made, not on old things that you are trying to preserve."


----------



## comboprof

I may try just the mahogany caranuba wax and see what it looks like. If I hate it I can remove it and use the oil.


----------



## donwilwol

Don K, I'm not sure where the BLO degrades wood comes from. I use it a lot.

Also try mahogany stain. It seem to get somewhat close. You're looking at totally different wood, so it'll be hard to match.

7, the 60 1/2 is producing some nice shavings.


----------



## comboprof

Is there a way we can ask Roy Underhill to what "Current thought" he is referring. I can't seem to find research on this topic. But on the otherhand I am not exactly how or where to look for it.


----------



## terryR

Love the discussion on matching old totes and knobs…need more education myself! 

Have also tried that Polyshades crap, but the Bombay Mahogany came out great on plain Beech. Looks sorta factory.

Has anyone used mahogany for knobs and totes? I suddenly have a medium sized supply of it, but what would you guys use for a darker finish? Stain?

Hey DonW, what brand of stain do you use?


----------



## donwilwol

I had some left over minwax from a table restore. I tried it one day and liked it. Even on the Sargent mahogany it makes them look better.

I'm not all that good at matching wood, so I tend to experiment a lot.


----------



## comboprof

So I wrote an e-mail to Peter Laks in our Forestry department concerning the Roy Underhill claim that BLO will long term very slowly degrades wood fiber. Here is his response:



> Hi Don,
> 
> I haven't heard of this, but I am not a wood coatings expert. Perhaps you can contact the author?
> 
> The explanation is wonky. Boiled linseed oil would not contain any active enzymes. The heating of the oil would destroy any proteins present. Same with the wood. When wood dries, any enzymes present are deactivated.
> 
> If a wood article with a boiled linseed oil coating got wet, it is possible there might be some bacterial or fungal action that would break down the oil. Linseed oil is basically a mixture of fatty acids that can definitely support the growth of microbes. Perhaps that is what the author is referring to?
> 
> Sorry that I couldn't be more help.
> 
> Peter


----------



## donwilwol

BLO is a sub ingredient for a lot of oil finishes and has been around for a long time. There is some disagreements to its protective effectiveness but I've not heard of a detrimental effect. I've used it forever.

I don't believe you have to worry about it ruining any projects.


----------



## comboprof

I also now believe there is no worry about BLO. And in any case you would not notice any effect in your lifetime, for I think Underhill claim is that the degradation is much much slower then one lifetime. Hence it would be impossible for us to preform an experiment and know for sure. So I was trying to uncover what the research was on this and so far have failed.

I just now used a min-wax stain mix (Dark Walnut and American Oak) we had left over from another project I am letting it dry now but so far it looks great. Once finished I'll post results.


----------



## bandit571

There is a "flavour " from MinWax called "Natural"

Used it on a couple items









Like this #81. I took it back to the bare beech, then just a few coats of the "Natural". Haven't even top-coated it. Seems to add just the right colour to some woods. Knob was Spalted Maple…


----------



## summerfi

Something to be aware of: Linseed Oil Can Self-Combust.


----------



## theoldfart

Do you think BLO behaves the same way? They didn't specify raw or otherwise.


----------



## johnstoneb

Yes BLO behaves the same way. Put some on a rag wring it out then let it set in a safe place within and hour or so that rag will be hot. I used BLO on a couple of projects and left the rag in an open metal can. I picked it up to throw it out into a garbage can. It was hot enough I spread the rag out flat and left it on the ground until it dried out. Since then I make sure when I finish with BLO and a rag that rag get spread out flat and put in a fire safe place until it is dry.


----------



## theoldfart

Bruce, thanks for the info and Bob thanks for posting the heads up. I primarily work with Danish oil but a few projects in the hopper will be BLO.


----------



## shampeon

I've got a container with DNA in it to store the rags I use for Danish oil and my BLO/shellac/DNA mixture. After the rags are no longer useful, I pull them out and dry them completely outside on the concrete, then throw them away.

Some people use water for this, but a sealed container with DNA means you can reuse the rags a few times before drying/tossing.


----------



## terryR

I just place oil soaked rags outside the shop on the concrete porch…
...and the friggin goats eat them!

Don't tell my wife…


----------



## CFrye

Spontaneously combusting goats…she may notice on her own Terry.


----------



## upchuck

Candy-
Images of goats combusting in the field and of Terry trying to act perplexed under the suspicious glare of his wife was the picture in my head as I drifted off to sleep last night and on waking this morning. That was the funniest thing I've read this year. Thank you.
chuck


----------



## donwilwol

> Spontaneously combusting goats…she may notice on her own Terry.
> 
> - CFrye


Can you hear Terry trying to explain the goat hair in his beard!!!


----------



## terryR

^Not going there…nope!


----------



## terryR

FWIW, here's a shot of a stanley no.4 knob that I sanded to bare wood and brushed on the Polyshades crap…










I think it was Maple? One more coat may give that factory look?

More testing ahead…


----------



## ksSlim

Not too shabby!
Watch that lopper gator sneakin up on yur can.


----------



## donwilwol

Try straight stain and then spray lacquer for that "out of the box" shiny look.


----------



## comboprof

Here is the tote I posted unfinished above. It was stained with Min-wax dark walnut, the 2 coats of wipe on poly, and a coat of caranuba wax. Look o.k. but not as good as I would have liked.


----------



## comboprof

Here is another mysterious plane I'd like help identifying. It has no markings excepted "made in U.S.A." in raised letters on the sole and stamped into the blade. Purchased from a "roadside antique dealer" for $5, the sticker on it said $12.

Before:










After:










Here are the parts exposed to help with identification:










It measures in inches 9 1/8 by 2 and the blade is 1 5/8 wide.

Is it a Defiance?


----------



## donwilwol

Looks like a defiance yes.


----------



## JayT

Nice job, Don K.

Sure looks like a Defiance to me.


----------



## comboprof

Thanks for the quick reply and conformation.

By the way the jappaning was very good and I did not paint it.

Well I am getting better at the restoration but not as good at finding good planes. In truth I picked it more for the restoring challenge then anything else. Maybe I'll sell this one. I have even worse selection to come, but I did get a Stanley number 5 for only $5 … it has a blown out side, so I'll be looking for a number 5 sole.


----------



## Airframer

My Stanley SW No 358 Mitre Box is finally finished. All it awaits is a sharpening and some fine tuning.

Before:









After:





































More info and pics in my blog


----------



## comboprof

When I picked up the defiance above right beside it was an identical looking plane…. at least I though it was… It cost me $5. Heres a "before" picture:










The defiance is on the left (I think) so I'm talking about the other. Taking it apart I put in to Evapo-rust. All the jappanning (actually paint) completley disapeared. Here is the result the "middle" picture:










And here is the after picture:










Is there anything I can save from this crappy Belmont plane?

The lesson learned is not to be hasty, take the rusted planes into the light and look them over carefully. I won't make this mistake (in this way) agin.


----------



## bandit571

Heck, send it my way, won't be the first one I have rehabbed back to life, and made into a user. Otherwise, keep the iron, and the handles ( with the bolts) and maybe the wheel.  Lever cap…...maybe. Frog and base are a set and can't be used elsewhere. I think the same for the chip breaker, as the slot is different than other planes. Shorter, in fact.

So, yeah, The Rehab Center is always open.


----------



## donwilwol

*Don K* I don't know what you're intentions are for you're planes, but keep in mind those planes are part of the history. You'll even find some in Roger Smiths books. If you might be collecting, (and we never admit it in the beginning) set it on a shelf as a part of the collection. If your not collecting set it on the shelf as a decoration.

Either way, if it's the last time you buy something by mistake, it's $5 well spent.


----------



## comboprof

O.K. fair enough I'll finish the restoration. I thought you despised these planes and the last photo was meant as a joke.

My intentions are while I have a disposable income to put together a working hybrid wood shop for my soon retirement. Sort of a return to my roots. I love vintage tools both electric and hand tools. So collection just sort of happened. I really enjoy the restoration its a lot of fun. Maybe that will be the hobby. Soon I suppose I'll have duplicates/extras and will have to sell some to support the addiction. Also my wife likes garage sales and so now we have something to do together. It's dangerous tough. She brought home a drop-leaf table and two old sewing machines and expects me to restore them too. I did the table so far.

As far of when retirement will happen, I'd say any year now. I have a Ph.D. student to finish and a couple of books to write and then I think I'm done with the university.


----------



## planepassion

I should have known better…but I'm a sucker for a T11…



















...even though the #5 appeared to be a bit rough










...and was missing a couple of key parts










But the $16.00 price was too tempting. And I conveniently forgot that buying the needed parts would put the jack plane at about $30.00 to bring it back to fighting condition. Thought I had some on hand but I didn't.

It did clean up nicely.




























The scratches in the sole won't affect performance and neither will the minor pitting.










And the gold paint came off easily.

After tuning the plane, sharpening the iron and setting the frog, it works nicely.


----------



## ksSlim

Nice job. Even at $30, not a bad investment.


----------



## bandit571

Seeing that steel frog reminded me I HAD already done one of them, awhile back









A Shipleigh's #4. Brown colour to the paint job, under all the crud. Just a wire brush in the drill press, I don't have any chemicals in the shop…









Big, long and heavy, for a #4 sized plane.









It WAS kind of messy when it arrived, though. I had already torn things down a bit.


----------



## bandit571

That orange can was from where I work. We use it to clean crud off injection molds. Hard to get more of. I just spray and pray. It will loosen stuff up a bit. I used it mainly for the hard to get to areas. About the only kind of cleaner I use in the shop.


----------



## tefinn

> That orange can was from where I work. We use it to clean crud off injection molds. Hard to get more of. I just spray and pray. It will loosen stuff up a bit. I used it mainly for the hard to get to areas. About the only kind of cleaner I use in the shop.
> 
> - bandit571


bandit - you can get that directly from PPE. I use it also. Last time I bought it I got a whole case. Ran around $60 + shipping. I don't have a link right now, but should be easy enough to Google it.


----------



## bandit571

I can get a can for free, anytime I need one. There is also a cleaner/polish for Stainless Steel at work as well. Don't really use all that much, anyway. Not sure how it would do on cast uron, though. Oh, and a Purple 3M scratch pad. I run it under a palmsander, just to clean up flat areas.

I left the brown colours on the Shipleigh's #4. Have seen all kinds of colours when a steel frog shows up. Even one in that blue colour Record used….


----------



## MNclone

This thread inspired me to do a little rust hunting.

So a few weeks back I came across an estate sale that had some old planes for what I thought were reasonable prices so I picked a few up.

I grabbed this $4 Craftsman "Sargent 408" and a $3 Stanley 118 block plane.


I was pleased with the purchase and talked the wife into going back the next day. Everything was a bit cheaper then so the wards master 22" jointer plane that I passed on at $20 was purchased for $14. I'm not sure who the manufacturer is on it. It has a U1 marking on the frog but that's it.



I used a vinegar soak on all metal but the Wards body. I couldn't find a proper container for that. 
I thought the vinegar worked pretty well. Soaked everything overnight and then gave a water bath and scrubbing. No parts were terribly rusty and cleaned up pretty well. I then sharpened the irons using scary sharp method and shaved part of my arm. I lapped the soles and the sides of the Wards to remove rust and scrubbed the rest. Everything got a nice coat of paste wax as well.

The Craftsman tote was broken but it was a clean break that glued nicely. The knobs were chucked in my drill and sanded. The totes were simply scraped and sanded by hand. This was probably the most tedious part of the job. The Craftsman had a reddish finish that I believe to be shellac over some lovely mahogany. The Wards had black paint over what I believe to be oak? The paint really soaked in and I couldn't get down to clean wood so I used some dark walnut stain to cover it up. I'm not thrilled about the look but if I really don't like it I can just paint it black again later.

After polishing up some brass and steel I put everything back together and this is what I got.



Now I grew up doing some woodworking but never used planes much. It took me a bit of tinkering but soon got the hang of it. I had no idea it would be so enjoyable to make a 2×4 smaller and less square!



After this venture I think that I'm going to try more of a hybrid approach to woodworking and get some more use out of these guys. Unfortunately I don't think that my block plane that I picked up is going to be of much use. Not sure I will even bother cleaning it up.


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent job MN. Very nice set of planes.


----------



## comboprof

Here is the Belmont finally restored. Except I have not re-painted it. Recall it appeared to me to be painted black, but I am not completely sure. I have not seen a picture of one. It had no Jappaning. It was a real pain shining up and getting the last traces of rust from inside the pressed frog. I gave up trying to get the vertical scratches and pits off the sides. Is it possible that some of it may have been from the casting? Anyway its done now and I hope I have made it back in your good graces and Don W is still talking to me.


----------



## donwilwol

that looks pretty good DK! You won't get any grief from me over any kind of restore. I've got some pretty cheesy planes hanging out here as well. Its all part of the history. Well done.


----------



## shampeon

A plane is just a jig for a blade. Get the blade sharp and adjusted properly, and the wood doesn't know whether it's being smoothed by a Brese or a Buck Brothers.


----------



## comboprof

Thanks *DW*. I'm actually considering putting a shelf along the top of the walls around my shop. Just to keep the planes. Its quite amazing how fast you can accumulate them for a small investment.

*shampeon* maybe so, but this belmont is really hard to adjust. Took me a while. As for sharpening as soon as I get these planes off my bench I will build a scary sharp sharpening station. (I have all the parts to do so, I just have to do it) So far I've been sharpening with a mill file by eye.

Last night in city a half our to my north I saw two Stanley 5s, a Stanley 3, a shoulder plane and three blocks in an antique dealer store front all quite rusty and sun dried. I hope today I can rescue them for a reasonable price. On my bench I still have a number 8, most of a number 5, a wooden jointer, and an odd maybe shop made cove or possibly scrub wooden plane to do.

*So much rust so little time. *


----------



## CFrye

"as soon as I get these planes off my bench…I hope today I can rescue them…" 
Don K 
You've got it bad! heeheehee You need another bench, just for rehab. damhikt


----------



## comboprof

> You ve got it bad! heeheehee You need another bench, just for rehab. damhikt
> 
> - CFrye


I know I just don't have the room.


----------



## comboprof

So I get to the above mentioned antique shop. The owner is out of town and has left some young man in charge whose attention I had to drag away from the internet to inquire about prices. I swear I could have walk in taken the planes and walked out without him knowing. Well there were no prices, no way to contact the owner, and no way to negotiate. I left my number and hope for a phone call. I can't alowe these planes to remain baking in the store front window. To make up for this disappointment I finished up this odd little plane I picked up a week or so ago. I assume it was homemade for some special task. No words or numbers on it or on the blade. Cost me $10 but I just had to rescue it.

Before:


















After:


















I just scrubbed it with the equal parts (Boiled Linseed Oil)+(Murphy's oil soap)+(paste wax) mixture using a steel wool and/or scotch brite pad. Polished the blade in the usual way. I managed to scrape out a cove with it, but don't seem to be able to get it adjusted right. It will probably go on my curiosity shelf which I guess I now have to build.


----------



## upchuck

Comboprof-
Now that is a cool plane! I think that it might function quite well as a scrub. How wide is the blade on that one?
No markings? None? Nada? Zilch? Zero?
And how the hell are you sharpening your blades if all you have is a file?


----------



## comboprof

> Comboprof-
> Now that is a cool plane! I think that it might function quite well as a scrub. How wide is the blade on that one?
> No markings? None? Nada? Zilch? Zero?
> And how the hell are you sharpening your blades if all you have is a file?
> 
> - upchuck


 
I thought maybe its a scrub.
Yes no markings!
I sharpen very carefully….. (I also use a 1 inch belt sander.)

The block it self is inches 7.5 by 1.5 wide by 2 high with a round bottom.

Glad you liked it. I also thought it was cool. It had $25 on it but I got it for $10. This guy (a Road-side out of the old barn antique dealer) that I bought it from has a lot of old tools. A ton of eggbeater drills, saws, drill bits, a few wooden plans. In particular he has a cross over plane I'm thinking of getting… now that Don W has turned me into a collector and not a user. I drive by there on Sunday so I may stop in.


----------



## donwilwol

I had a dream the other night, I was driving along a back road, to my left was a high bank and a steep clear slope. To my right was a wooded area also on a steep slope. A man came sliding off the bank, bounced off my truck and slide down through the trees. I now know that was *Don K*!

Welcome to the slippery slope.

The plane may be a gutter plane. Made for hollowing wooden gutters.


----------



## comboprof

Warning I'll be in Syracuse around Thanksgiving, maybe I'll … er .. run into to you should I drive further east.


----------



## donwilwol

i'll be in Syracuse next week end.


----------



## comboprof

So I'd like some advice on this Bailey 5c I got for $5:










I've mostly cleaned it up and her is the dissection:

Fronts:









Backs:









Questions on the sole.

Should I see if I can get a metal worker (my next door neighbor) to repair the sole.
Should I buy a sole off of e-bay (if so what type is this one).
Should I just restore as is keeping it for "parts" 
Should I just sell it. (As mentioned earlier I have a line on others and the 5 seems most common, I do have a Miller-Falls 14c which is I guess equivalent and works great.)

Question about the black stuff mostly coating the tote and knob. 

Is this supposed to be there? 
How do I safely remove it? I've scrubed it with the BLO,murhpy oil soap,paste wax mix and alo with mineral spirits.
Should I just sand it away? The wood underneath looks quite nice.
What do you do here?


----------



## b2rtch

"What do you do here?" 
Why you ask?
I am reading your post!


----------



## donwilwol

*Don K* if rust hunting is a regular thing for you, I'd just wait for a donor base to come along. That's a pretty common #5. Same parts will fit a #4 as well. Find one with a broken or missing frog and you're good to go.


----------



## comboprof

> "What do you do here?"
> Why you ask?
> I am reading your post!
> 
> - b2rtch


I am asking what do you do for the restoration of totes and knobs that have this black coating on them. I am trying to discover what is the best way to proceed.


----------



## comboprof

> *Don K* if rust hunting is a regular thing for you, I d just wait for a donor base to come along. That s a pretty common #5. Same parts will fit a #4 as well. Find one with a broken or missing frog and you re good to go.
> 
> - Don W


Yeah thats what I think I will do. The #5 seems pretty common. I just have not found one locally. I'll reassemble it as is and set it aside. By the way where do you buy fluid film I can't seem to find it locally and would like to find it when I travel. Is it at a Borg? The fluid film company said John Deer has it but the one I checked didn't have it stocked.
And its not close enough to me that I want to have it ordered.


----------



## Laban

I'll play this game. This is my first restoration attempt after alot of input from Don and other fellow LJ's
Stanley SW No. 4
Before 



























After


----------



## donwilwol

> By the way where do you buy fluid film I can t seem to find it locally and would like to find it when I travel. Is it at a Borg? The fluid film company said John Deer has it but the one I checked didn t have it stocked.
> And its not close enough to me that I want to have it ordered.
> 
> - comboprof


I get it from a local auto parts store. Its the only place I can find it. Amazon has it as well.


----------



## CL810

Joshua ya' done good.


----------



## donwilwol

This is a Type 11 #4C I found as just a base and frog. Original japanning still has some paint splatters. I still need a V logo cutter and chip breaker. The knob and tote is African Rosewood (Bubinga) freshly made.


----------



## planepassion

That turned out beautifully Don. The bubinga tote really makes it look upscale.


----------



## Handtooler

Super Save!


----------



## comboprof

Check out my till of tills. 

Its amazing how many vintage tools you can find and restore in one summer.


----------



## Deycart

-Don K
Your woodie you just restored is a "Gutter plane" used to make gutters for houses back before metal gutters. They are usually jacks that have been modified.


----------



## comboprof

Yes. Don W mentioned that it was a gutter plane. It makes sense that a jack was modified and explains why there are no markings on it. Thanks makes it a good show and tell piece.


----------



## DanKrager

Did a little rust hunting on the way north and found Bandit heaven:
























And in the same store these items of interest to someone…:
















These were priced too high for my level of interest, but it was educational…
DanK


----------



## theoldfart

Dan, looks like quite a treasure trove.


----------



## SamuelP

Anyone have an ohio #5 blade and chip breaker they want to get rid of?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Man, this thread fell off my watchlist. Missed like 30 days.

Why can't Lee Valley get their totes to look this good:



> This is a Type 11 #4C I found as just a base and frog. Original japanning still has some paint splatters. I still need a V logo cutter and chip breaker. The knob and tote is African Rosewood (Bubinga) freshly made.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Don W


----------



## comboprof

> Man, this thread fell off my watchlist. Missed like 30 days.
> 
> Why can t Lee Valley get their totes to look this good:
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


Easy. They can't afford to sub-contract with Don W.


----------



## JohnDi

Hey guys, a question for those of you who do this type of thing on a regular basis.
I found a Stanley 278 at a flea that I would like to clean up as a user. There is a screw on top that holds on the front of the plane that is frozen. Does anyone have a method for loosening before I mangle this and ruin it?








http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag52/johndi1/Mobile%20Uploads/ad09c6fe063986c011a253828b6ea26c_zps64268928.jpg[/IMG[/URL]]








http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag52/johndi1/Mobile%20Uploads/fb220b59a6d14a23aec0019fb773c882_zps3a28c14b.jpg[/IMG[/URL]]


----------



## donwilwol

Here is what I would do to loosen the screw. Heat helps. Warm it with a torch. Have it in vise so yo don't need to touch it. Then as your turning the screwdriver keep hitting it with a mallet or hammer. This technique is easier with 2 people, but manageable alone.


----------



## comboprof

Don W is of course the expert. But I don't own a torch. I have had good luck with PB Blaster. Give it a good spray put a driver in the slot and tap it with a mallet. Also put the driver on the sides of the screw and tap it. If it still does not turn. spray it again and wait half an hour and try again. Repeat over and over again until it does. putting in a vice to do this may also help. Trying of course not to mangle it.


----------



## donwilwol

I'm pretty impatient sometimes. The torch is instant gratification. It will also work when nothing else will. It will also burn down your shop and scortch your fingers.


----------



## JohnDi

Gonna try heat when I get home.
Can the Japaning be affected by the heat?
Should I heat the bolt or the plane body ?


----------



## upchuck

JohnDi-
Yes, the japanning can be affected by the heat. Too hot for too long could be a problem.
Ideally the heat should be applied to the tool to expand the metal around the bolt. But for me and my equipment it is hard to precisely locate where the heat goes. Plus the heat moves from one part to the other fairly rapidly.
But using heat is a fairly forgiving procedure. I have put things in the freezer and chilled the whole tool. Then applied heat where I wanted it the best I could with good results. I think that the difference in the temperature between the tool and the bolt will give you the most chance of success using heat. Also as the whole thing cools the two different kinds of metal cool at different rates and this can help in breaking things free. Also use lubricate. Good luck. Don't break off the bolt.


----------



## donwilwol

Typically if the bolts rusted in that hard the japanning is shot as well. The heat will hurt it. Upchuck pretty much covered it.


----------



## JohnDi

IT WORKED!
THANK YOU for all the replies.
Had to clamp vise grips on the head to turn bolt
But didn't deform too much to file out.


----------



## donwilwol

lining the jaws with aluminum will help with that, http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/37838


----------



## Bundoman

Here are a couple planes that I picked up over the weekend. I did electrolysis to these and polished the parts as needed.

First is a Stanley 12 scraper. This one had an old chip breaker in place of a proper blade. I will have to order a blade. Been wanting one of these for awhile just because I like the look.

















And the Stanley 48 as well. Nickel is a little rough but this one sharpened up nice and works good.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Well, we don't see a lot of Lie Nielsen restores. It seems I've got a knack for finding neglected LNs. I got a decent price, by LN standards, for this no 4 because of its condition. 








-








-








-

It cleaned up nicely. I used barkeepers friend and a toothbrush on top. Same cleaner and a scotch pad on the sides. I was gonna lap the bottom, but it didn't need it. The only part in bad shape was the chipbreaker. I'm diggin it, especially for the money I saved. 








-








-


----------



## racerglen

Oh my, Red shoots, he scores !
Now that's nice !


----------



## donwilwol

An LN restoration. Now that's a rare sighting. Nice!!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Ya Don, they've been around long enough I think we'll start seeing some neglected ones out there. This plane is from 2002. Notice is doesn't have the LN etch on the iron.


----------



## ksSlim

Wish I could find a LN on my rust hunts.
Oh wait, maybe not, I probably end up in Cardiac Intensive care.

Great find!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Actually Slim, I picked that up on ebay….kinda low-balled a "best offer." It was on there for awhile and I think people were scared off by the condition. I've bought several tarnished rusty LNs, but it's pretty tough to jack up an LN plane beyond recovery.

However last month I found a LN 102 at an estate sale for $30. That was fun.


----------



## ksSlim

I'd be glad to let you make a profit on the 102. I'll even pick it up.
End of the month, after Sparks, we'll be headed to LeMars.

Check out Sparks flea market, worth the drive. Half hour west of St.Joe.


----------



## Bundoman

Very cool on the LN plane!!


----------



## planepassion

BRK, I like that you took a light hand to the LN smoother. No need to put the sides to sandpaper if barkeeper's friend will do the job. I think that you'll love your new tool. The mass, performance and beauty of the plane is pure joy.


----------



## terryR

Nice job on the LN4, Red! I've been too scared to enter the bidding war that usually surrounds a used LN plane, but will look again…That's a nice score!

AND, glad to hear a light cleaning with Bar Keeper's did the job since a couple of my LN's are growing patina.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Thanks guys. It sound kinda funny leaving some patina on a Lie Nielsen…but that is what I was shooting for. I was pretty gentle with the wood too, because I like the amber aged cherry.

Kev- This is the first LN I've bought on ebay because they're usually just not worth it. For ten percent below retail, I'd rather just go new and not take the risk of what someone could have done to the tool. This one was like 35% below retail, but some of that will be negated when I replace the chipbreaker with the newer style.

Slim- Thanks for the heads up on flea markets in the area. I know there's big sale every year down by Rockport, but I've yet to make it. 
For now, I've somehow convinced myself that I need both of my 102s. I'm know, I've got issues. MY precioussss…...lol


----------



## Wally331

Nice LN restore Red, can't go wrong with those bronze LN's. I too love the look of the aged cherry, I think it's my favorite wood to work with.

Dan, may I ask where that antique shop is? Far enough north to be in Wisconsin? Remember if they had any full sized or panel saws? Looks like they have some decent stuff.


----------



## DanKrager

Wally, I presume you are talking about me, DanK? We were traveling to MI and the store pictured is just north of Fort Wayne IN. I wasn't impressed by what they had, but I'm not an experienced rust hunter. I didn't see any Disston saws, and I didn't recognize the other names. The only thing that caught my eye was the corner brace in the chest. 
DanK


----------



## terryR

...been meaning to ask you guys…

Do you prep the bare metal of a plane before re-painting? What do you use?

Edit…I've been wiping with spirits, then blowing dry with the heat gun…


----------



## donwilwol

> ...been meaning to ask you guys…
> 
> Do you prep the bare metal of a plane before re-painting? What do you use?
> 
> Edit…I ve been wiping with spirits, then blowing dry with the heat gun…
> 
> - terryR


That's what I do as well.


----------



## Timbo

It seems I've got a knack for finding neglected LNs Wish I had that problem.

Here is a Millers Falls No. 14 Jack


















just some light cleaning of the jappaning, knob and tote


----------



## ndmrslp

I don't have the amazing restoration skills of some here, but I was happy with how this Keen Kutter saw turned out. I was even happier to rescue it from an eternity as an awful Halloween decoration


----------



## donwilwol

great save on the KK!!


----------



## chrisstef

There's even an etch under that sloppy paint job. Nice!


----------



## ndmrslp

Thanks! That was the first etch I ever uncovered. I can still remember how excited I was to see it appear


----------



## carguy460

Red - the one near Rockport is OK, its actually in Brownville just across the river. I've had some good luck there in years past, I'd say its worth visiting but the tools are sparse. Definitely check out the flea market in Sparks, there is one just north on the same weekend in White Cloud. I've scored pretty well tool-wise at Sparks. Too bad I'll miss it this year!


----------



## theoldfart

Jason, when's the Sparks event?


----------



## carguy460

Aug 28-31 http://www.sparksantiquesandcollectibles.com/


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Jason, unfortunately won't be out that wat till October.


----------



## donwilwol

I mentioned making a new mahogany tote for a type 4 Sargent bench plane I found at a flea market.

This one was a little different. The tote screw had been replaced with a larger diameter version. I'll assume what ever happened to the original tote, also stripped the threads so a larger on was fashioned.

Also a type 4 would typically have metal knob and tote screws, but this one has brass. Were they changed when the tote screw was re-made? I'm guessing we'll never know.

http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2014/08/22/a-sargent-410-restoration/


----------



## SamuelP

Great job Don.
I notice the shape of the new tote is much different than the original. It looks more like an LN or Veritas. Was this by design? Does it feel better in hand? Just curious because I have preffered the old sargent totes. They seem to have more room.


----------



## donwilwol

Sam, the original tote was pretty crude. I copied another Sargent tote.


----------



## bandit571

Rusty & Crusty, the Before









and the After









Par Plus #5, making a few shavings









13" long, $5 jack plane.


----------



## bandit571

Take a good look at that tote. It isn't the one that came with the plane. Solid Black Walnut. Resanded an older one i made. Has an almost Millers Falls profile to it now. Knob was in great shape, just a good cleaning was needed. BLO/Varnish/Walnut stain mix on the wooden parts. Sole was actually flat enough for a jack plane, all I did was clean it up. Had to grind the iron's edge back to beyond the pit line, it is now quite sharp. Went up to 2500 grit, even.

Chipbreaker was a bear to mate up to the iron. Took a file to the frog (????) face, and ran it down through the mouth opening. All coplaner now. No chatter, either. Lever cap bolt will need a bit more work, was a bit rusty in the hole's threads. At least it won't work loose.

At 13" long, is a bit short, but it can go places the bigger ones can't.


----------



## terryR

A quick question for those of you using needle scalers, or pneumatic needle files…

Anybody running one off a 5cfm compressor? Will it still remove paint?

Thanks!


----------



## ToddJB

Terry, 5cfm at what PSI? I have this one from HF. It says 4cfm at 90psi, and at 90psi it'll put the hurt on paint. So, if you can keep 4 at 90 then you'll be fine, though your compressor will be running a lot.


----------



## terryR

^oh yeah…90 psi.

Thanks, Todd, that's the HF model I was looking at…


----------



## donwilwol

> ^oh yeah…90 psi.
> 
> Thanks, Todd, that s the HF model I was looking at…
> 
> - terryR


I have one ordered. It hasn't arrived yet.


----------



## bandit571

Rare Sunday afternoon rust hunt/garage sale









Stanley #70 for a buck,









Saw was a dollar as well. Cleaned all the crud and rust off the Stanley, cleaned up and oiled the red handle









Iron had a surprise to it. Had a SW inside a heart. Iron was cambered, so I just sharpened it back up as is









Works great as a pull scraper, too. That chisel is an Eagle Brand 7. It came without a handle. I have it sharpened up. The handle was one I had in the shop, just a might small. Chisel cost was ten times the Stanley #70's.









BTW, who is that green fellow?


----------



## TheFridge

He's using the force.


----------



## kdc68

A Stanley No.4 Type 9 . I would say an earlier version only because it has the full cylindrical brass nuts. Research tells me the brass nuts with a waist were introduced later during this time/type.

Solid tote and knob with no chips, cracks or repairs. Japanning is 90 to 95 % and was left intact. Everything is appropriate (I think) for a type 9. The only minor flaw is initials scribed into the body.

You can see where I had taken off the lever cap and put it back on for the number 2 before photo. There is a silhouette of a relatively clean and rust free area.

De-rusted, wire brushed, and waxed. Sole lapped flat. Tote and knob were lightly cleaned and lacquered. Japanning lightly cleaned and waxed. There was white and red paint splatters on the body, tote and knob

All turned out well. Minor pitting with none on the sole. Pretty much a full length iron (and thankfully too) because I don't think it was ever sharpened. I'll have to grind a new edge on it, and that will happen another day.

*Before Photos
*









v








v








v









*After Photos
*








v








v








v


----------



## CL810

^ Gorgeous.


----------



## kdc68

Stanley No. 4-1/2 Type 13. All appropriate for this type.

No chips, cracks or repairs on the tote and knob.

Slightly more rusted than my type 9 from the previous post above.

De-rusted, wire brushed, and waxed. Sole lapped flat. Japanning about 80 to 90 %, left intact and lightly cleaned and waxed. Tote and knob lightly cleaned and lacquered.

Turned out well. Some pitting on one side of body and some minor pitting on one side of sole. Won't effect anything. Full length iron that is in desperate need of sharpening. I'll save that for another day.

No before photos. Pretty much looked like what was seen in the before photos of my previous post (except slightly worse)









v








v








v


----------



## kdc68

> ^ Gorgeous.
> 
> - CL810


Thank you !


----------



## donwilwol

Some very nice work there KDC' those look great. I especially like the type 9!


----------



## kdc68

> Some very nice work there KDC those look great. I especially like the type 9!
> 
> - Don W


Thank you Don !


----------



## b2rtch

How is a Stanley #70 used?


----------



## bandit571

Push it along, or pull it back towards you. The head rotates to allow either. Sole is rounded, and the iron is cambered. Does not give a flat surface. It is great for rough-sawn pieces, almost like a scrub plane.


----------



## bandit571

As for pushing it along









You can actually steer this thing along. Made to remove just a painted on lable. A twist to the left or right, and it will turn that way. About like pushing or pulling a round bottom squirrel tail plane.


----------



## b2rtch

Thank you Bandit


----------



## ShaneComeBack

My $6 1938 Goodell Pratt mitre box which I just finished thanks to the help from all the guys in the Mitrebox of your dreams thread.

Ran everything through an electrolysis bath then scrubbed all the black goo off then primed and painted.

Before




























After


----------



## theoldfart

Good job on the box, but don't tell my wife how much you paid, mine was a bit more!


----------



## DocBailey

It's alive-nice work-I'd say you literally brought that one back to life.


----------



## terryR

Goodness gracious, a $6 Goodell Pratt…And no missing pieces to drive up the investment? Schweet!

In less exciting news…I finally used heat, an awl, and hammer to remove the iron from an old Sargent yesterday, it was rusted to the mouth and frog pretty well…










...yuck! I'm not sure I'm glad it came apart at this point…tote has already broken in half…left in Evaporust overnight. Hope I find a jewel on the shop's porch this morning!


----------



## ShaneComeBack

Thanks, it's not 100% complete, it is missing a few stops, but I'm working on getting them machined, so hopefully they turn out ok.


----------



## bandit571

Wish me luck on this little project









A Red & White 1953 AMF Tricycle. Same age as I am, too. All parts are there, too…


----------



## DonBroussard

Nice find, Bandit. I dug one similar to that out of a trash pile (with permission) and fixed it up for my granddaughter. I did have to add wood blocks for pedals so she could reach the pedals. My biggest issue was having to straighten the spokes on those rear wheels.


----------



## bandit571

Ok, took things out of the tub, Put some things back together. Discovered a few bolts were missing, Lowes will supply a few bolts. According to the label I found, this was sold at Montgomery Wards as a Hawthorne model by AMF. Pics, right?









just sitting there, don't breathe on it. Need to go pick up a few things…like a gallon of Murphy's Oil soap, for starters. A few carriage bolts, and a couple cotter pins to hold the rear wheels on.

Front wheel will need some wire brush work, a can of spray primer, and some Rustoleum White. And two red rubber hand grips. No, there will NOT be tassles on them, either….


----------



## bandit571

Any ideas where that rod goes?


----------



## ToddJB

If you're talking about the rod in the first pic sitting on the front tire, that looks like a little bike rack to me. It should have a threaded eyelet on each end. If it's made for that tricycle, which I'm not positive it is, there would be matching threaded eyelets near the hub of the front wheel.


----------



## theoldfart

Bandito, something looks funky(odd angle) on the front wheel and fork.


----------



## bandit571

No bolts to hold it together? Found out the rod is a fender protector of sorts. This might be "fun" to do….


----------



## CFrye

TerryR, did you find the jewel you were hoping for?
Nice job, Don!
Bandit that looks like it will clean up to a real gem!


----------



## upchuck

TerryR-

I see an uncut jewel in those pictures.

Bandit…reconsider….tassels can be a fashion statement. Plus baseball cards cloth pinned to the spokes.

chuck


----------



## bandit571

Day one of that restore is done.









Had to make ( at the grinder) two square headed 5/16" x 18 tpi by 3/4" bolts. Just to attach the front wheel , the fender, and the fender guard. Chase the old threads to clean them out. At least I had the Tap & Die to do it.









The cotter pin was a hair too big, cleaned out the hole a bit. Now it fits fine.









A label on the back porch that says "AMF". They also made Bowling balls…









This is the Montgomery Wards label. Not too bad a shape.









My 5 yr old Grand-BRAT gave it a test drive. He also gave it two thumbs up! Still need to work on the front wheel area









I believe it calls for white wheels and chrome pedal arms? That rod like guard was to protect the sheetmetal fender. I think…..


----------



## b2rtch

AMF also used to own Harley Davidson and Aermacchi !

In 1969, American Machine and Foundry (AMF) bought the company, streamlined production, and slashed the workforce.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harley-Davidson


----------



## terryR

Gotta admit, that tricycle restore looks like a LOT of fun!

No jewels for me yet…left the rust bucket in ER for 2nights. But, I worked my fingers to the bone sharpening a Sargent iron which should appear here soon…

Glad I bought that DMT in 120 grit!!!


----------



## j1212t

Got some more old handplanes from my granddad, the tools used to be his dad's who was an amazing carpenter, so a lot of sentimental value for me. Despite being between 80-100 years old, didn't really need a lot, just some TLC, steel wool and denatured alcohol.


----------



## lateralus819

Neat stuff Jake. That last router plane has some gorgeous wood!

Did you know he was a woodworker prior to you getting into it?


----------



## j1212t

Hey yeah the grain is amazing.

Yeah I knew he was an exceptionally talented carpenter, I have seen some of his stuff, what I did not know since like a few weeks ago was that my granddad had kept some of his dad's tools. I didn't get into woodworking knowingly because of that though, I just kind of wandered into it.


----------



## terryR

^What a gorgeous routah! 

For your viewing pleasure…a Type1 Sargent 3416 Transitional before restoration…










Completely intact, just filthy…looks like it sat next to the wood stove for 50 years! LOL.

A few months ago, I restored the plane using nothing but Turtle Wax Rubbing Compund. Did a pretty good job on the dirty wood, but not much improvement to the metal…



















Recenly, I decided to fully restore the plane…down to the bare metal, fresh paint. Sanded the wood from 120 to 400 grit, filled the cracks in the aged wood with epoxy and black sawdust, then applied Bri-Wax which was colored Golden Oak to restore some luster to the sanded wood, then a coat of clear wax from the buffing wheel for long-lasting protection…










much better, IMO…










I spent hours correcting the out of flat iron, but never received full-width ribbons for shavings. Probably since I gave the base no attention…oh well, this guy is really destined to hang out with his brothers and give ambience to my shop!










sorry for the messy benchtop…working on another table…so bench is storing everything!

And the Type1 frog?










...looking good for pre 1901…


----------



## donwilwol

Nice restore Terry.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Terry. That's "Slexy"

Mixture "slick" and "sexy." My invention.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, gentlemen.

I forgot all about that Sargent I left in rust remover…










...schweet…


----------



## CFrye

Schweet indeed! on both Terry! What rust remover are you using? and how long did you forget it (because I'm too lazy to scroll back and check)?


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Candy! I'm still using EvapoRust…think I left this one in for three nights? maybe four?

The steel was pretty badly pitted, so I may have removed a little of the iron's logo with that heavy dose of ER? But, at least, most of the poor paint job came off, too!


----------



## bandit571

Picked up two $2 saws, that might have been "twins"









Might rusty, but seemed to have good "bones"









Well after a little bit of clean up









A pair of D-8 8ppi crosscut saws. They are almost twins! One was used a bit, and resharpened a lot









Notice the difference? Appears to be two bought at almost the same time, and one was just used a lot more. And the skiiny one is still SHARP.









$2 a piece for a pair of D-8 "Disston USA"? Deal…or not?


----------



## DaddyZ

Nice Deal Bandit


----------



## DonBroussard

Nice haul, Bandito! And for $4 for a set of twins too!

BTW, I PM'd Slyy aka Jake last night. He said to pass on to his LJ buddies that he misses the activity both in his shop and here on LJs, but he's busy with family and schooling and doesn't have a bunch of time outside of those priority areas. He will try to check in occasionally.


----------



## MNclone

Picked up a little perfect handle screwdriver the other day. It is really small and I don't think I will have much practical use for it but it sure looks cool
Before


After. Didn't do much. Just took care of some rust and some BLO


----------



## jmartel

I've always liked the look of those handles. Almost makes me want to buy the similarly handled chisels that Lee Valley sells.


----------



## 7Footer

Quiet round here lately…..

That Goddell Pratt…. Nice!

Terry - the transitional, wow, looks amazing.

Red - nice 'find' with the forgotten Sargent!

Sweet screwdriver too!

Just had to share this I came across the other day….. Drawknives now too??? Whats the world coming to! At least it would be much easier to restore than the saw….


----------



## theoldfart

Damn heathens ;-(


----------



## john2005

Not even a good painting…


----------



## terryR

^yeah, that's what kills me…the painted tools I've seen are usually a hack. Guessing some folks are trying to save money by NOT purchasing canvas?

Although, the paint sure protects against rust! Hmmm…how about a black plate with gold lettering for the maker's mark?


----------



## planepassion

So John, is it the painting motif that leaves you flat, or is it the execution?

If I were mayor of my city I would bring back the town square stocks to hold "artists" who defile fine tools like that…


----------



## theoldfart

^ Brad, could you include Steam Punk in the list of offenses?


----------



## john2005

> So John, is it the painting motif that leaves you flat, or is it the execution?
> 
> If I were mayor of my city I would bring back the town square stocks to hold "artists" who defile fine tools like that…
> 
> - Brad





> ^ Brad, could you include Steam Punk in the list of offenses?
> 
> - theoldfart


I'm just offended. I'll take em all. Shallow expression, poor medium choice, etc. The motif could be tolerated on the knife, if it weren't on a knife, but the saw plate fails. I feel you could put that any where and it would still be crap. Not to be too hard on the artist with their expression and all…


----------



## donwilwol

Finally, a day in the shop!!

A Bedrock 607
Before


















And after the full treatment.










More Pictures!

And a Keen Kutter K7
Before









And after the full treatment.


----------



## kdc68

Nice score at $18.00…..gloat worthy. Well done on the restores


----------



## upchuck

Don W-

So, yeah, okay, I'll pay your asking price of $18 for that old plane. Even tho someone has broken off the curved sides I guess I could use the rest for parts. I'm assuming that the $18 includes free shipping?

chuck


----------



## donwilwol

$18

I didn't even dicker!! Funny thing is, we almost didn't stop at the shop I bought it in because their prices are usually outrageous.


----------



## lateralus819

Damnit Don…..!! $18? $18 FRIGGIN DOLLARS?

YOU SUCK! YOU SUCK YOU SUCK! 

What place was that at?

I love my #607 it feels so comfortable.


----------



## theoldfart

"*YOU SUCK! YOU SUCK YOU SUCK!*" x20 You should be ashamed


----------



## terryR

Nice work, Don.
But, $18 for a 607? 
Man, I gotta leave the South!!!


----------



## BoardCop

So I decided to restore this little guy and work my way up to the others I was given.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice!


----------



## BoardCop

Thanks Don! Doing a scrub plane next. Not sure what it's for but I'm gonna find some videos.


----------



## CFrye

Wow!


----------



## Lifesaver2000

If seeing some paint on a saw blade bothers you, then you would probably have had a heart attack if you had been with me today. Someone had taken an old saw and using a torch or something had done a cut out so that it said #1 Dad right down the whole blade. I don't know enough about saws to know if it was a good one or not, but it sure won't be getting restored now.


----------



## CFrye

> If seeing some paint on a saw blade bothers you, then you would probably have had a heart attack if you had been with me today. Someone had taken an old saw and using a torch or something had done a cut out so that it said #1 Dad right down the whole blade. I don t know enough about saws to know if it was a good one or not, but it sure won t be getting restored now.
> 
> - Lifesaver2000


I've seen that done to a saw with a Disston medallion. :-(


----------



## upchuck

BoardCop-

From before to after photos that is far beyond a restoration. That's a rejuvenation or rebirth or resurrection. Nice work.

chuck


----------



## CL810

> BoardCop-
> 
> From before to after photos that is far beyond a restoration. That s a rejuvenation or rebirth or resurrection. Nice work.
> 
> chuck
> 
> - upchuck


It's Kung fu magic, is what it is.


----------



## BoardCop

Thanks! I'm kinda having some fun with these! One day I'll learn how to use them right! My friend who gave me these had them in a box out in the rain so I need to give them new life.


----------



## DonBroussard

Don, Angie-Great restoration work on those rusty planes.

Angie-When you first posted the restoration/resurrection, I kinda thought that DonW had creator another account. You rescued that plane out from the deep!


----------



## BoardCop

Thank you! I have a few more to go.


----------



## john2005

> Don W-
> 
> So, yeah, okay, I ll pay your asking price of $18 for that old plane. Even tho someone has broken off the curved sides I guess I could use the rest for parts. I m assuming that the $18 includes free shipping?
> 
> chuck
> 
> - upchuck


I'll double chucks offer. And yes, you suck!


----------



## upchuck

Now hold your horses there John2005-

At least wait until he tells me to go to hell.

chuck


----------



## john2005

Hahaha. Fair enough


----------



## Tim457

Recently somebody mentioned a tray sold at home depot for $3 or something that's the right size for soaking #7 and 8 size planes but I forgot to write it down and can't find the post again. I can't remember if it was on this thread, the hand plane thread or somewhere else. Did anyone see the post I'm talking about?


----------



## ksSlim

Twas I.
Most any BORG has trays in the wallpaper section made for soaking pre-pasted wallpaper.
Last ones i bought were about $3.
They are aboout 30 inches long.

With a little "customizing" and model glue, you can achieve most any length necessary.
Width is as moulded.


----------



## kdc68

Great idea* ksSlim*.....I have a slightly more expensive alternative. I took a piece of 4" dia PVC and glued with PVC primer and contact cement a test cap on the end. The length is 28". 
v
v









Worked well to do the body of this Millers Falls No 18 I just did a restore on. 
v
v








v








v








v


----------



## planepassion

You did a phenomenal job on that MFs #18. She's a beauty. But can she plane wood?


----------



## kdc68

> You did a phenomenal job on that MFs #18. She s a beauty. But can she plane wood?
> 
> - Brad


Thanks* Brad *!.....And yes she can !.... Can't prove it now. Once I got her all back together I posted on eBay and it quickly sold. But nevertheless, I made sure of that before I packaged and mailed it off.


----------



## pastahill

After a few month of no time for woodworking and just reading the epic treats ( I am always with you guys) i found some time to restore some saws. I will post here only one saw, because it´s the only one i have before pictures. The other saws i will post i the saw forum.
It´s a small dovetail saw from Wheatman, Smith & Russell made for Eastwood with brass back, beach handle and split nuts filed 12 tpi.
When i got this saw, it had a bad kink in the blade, so i dont know if i have to replace the blade. There were a few name stamps in the handle but they were not so deep, that i could sand them out.
I bought this saw at f***bay for 8 €

Before

































After









































After disassembling the blade from the back and a cleaning i put it back and it was straight. I think it was just under force in the brass back and made this kink and frog.


----------



## summerfi

Very nice saw and nice job on the restore. I have a Wheatman & Smith panel saw that I really like.


----------



## donwilwol

> Recently somebody mentioned a tray sold at home depot for $3 or something that s the right size for soaking #7 and 8 size planes but I forgot to write it down and can t find the post again. I can t remember if it was on this thread, the hand plane thread or somewhere else. Did anyone see the post I m talking about?
> 
> - Tim


Window will or flower box liners work as well.


----------



## donwilwol

That Wheatman and Smith looks sweet!


----------



## Tim457

Thanks, knew I could count on you guys. I don't have any modeling glue currently so it looks like at about $7 the flower box liner is about the cheapest and easiest option.

Nice job on the plane and saw restore too.


----------



## john2005

I do the flower box and use the bottom try as a lid. Works good.


----------



## bandit571

Trying to clean up that DE5…..Someone had sprayed Clear coat on it, to keep the rust at bay? It has some sort of coating covering the iron, at least. This might take awhile. Doubt if EV would even dent Clearcoat….


----------



## bandit571

OK, remember this nasty looking thing









Broken handles, a "patina" made up of rust and clearcoat









Even the frog looked nasty









Well, got rid of the hex headed tote bolt, added a toe bolt, and got rid of the clearcoat junk









There is a strip of Oak veneer in the old crack.









Tote was an easier fix, brass wheel is lefthanded thread. Paint was about 75% left that alone.









Need to sharpen the iron, yet. It even had a thick clearcoat on it, and the chipbreaker, too. DE logo stamped in the iron. Flat face frog









With that Union Lateral lever. Might be a Union Made type 3?


----------



## donwilwol

I took a little risk buying this Stanley type 2 # 6. It had some condition issues.
Here is the whole article


----------



## ToddJB

Very nice, Don. What epoxy do you use?


----------



## donwilwol

> Very nice, Don. What epoxy do you use?
> 
> - ToddJB


I use this, http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/124269/System-Three-5-Minute-Epoxy-Pint.aspx

with this

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/144061/System-Three-Epoxy-Pigment-Black-2--oz.aspx


----------



## ToddJB

So you mix equal parts on something disposable, add some tint, and just wipe it on, or do you use a syringe?


----------



## donwilwol

> So you mix equal parts on something disposable, add some tint, and just wipe it on, or do you use a syringe?
> 
> - ToddJB


ahhh no. Sorry Todd, I misunderstood the question. The epoxy is for the repairs. The finish is spray on lacquer. Just the big box store stuff.


----------



## ToddJB

> So you mix equal parts on something disposable, add some tint, and just wipe it on, or do you use a syringe?
> 
> - ToddJB
> 
> ahhh no. Sorry Todd, I misunderstood the question. The epoxy is for the repairs. The finish is spray on lacquer. Just the big box store stuff.
> 
> - Don W


Ha. No you understood correctly the first time. I was asking about the application of the epoxy. I feel like anytime I use any sort of 2 part adhesive I have a ton of waist and always make a mess.


----------



## JohnDi

Hey guys, sorry if this ha s been asked before, but I'm having a heck of a time sanding the tote and knob from a #3 I found. Real PITA with the inside curves.
Wondering if anyone has a good way to do this besides hours of hand sanding.
I'm just trying to get the original cracked finish off as they are both in good shape otherwise.

Thanks


----------



## donwilwol

> So you mix equal parts on something disposable, add some tint, and just wipe it on, or do you use a syringe?
> 
> - ToddJB
> 
> ahhh no. Sorry Todd, I misunderstood the question. The epoxy is for the repairs. The finish is spray on lacquer. Just the big box store stuff.
> 
> - Don W
> 
> Ha. No you understood correctly the first time. I was asking about the application of the epoxy. I feel like anytime I use any sort of 2 part adhesive I have a ton of waist and always make a mess.
> 
> - ToddJB


I waste a lot to. I'm not sure what else to do. I'm getting better at judging amounts.


----------



## donwilwol

> Hey guys, sorry if this ha s been asked before, but I m having a heck of a time sanding the tote and knob from a #3 I found. Real PITA with the inside curves.
> Wondering if anyone has a good way to do this besides hours of hand sanding.
> I m just trying to get the original cracked finish off as they are both in good shape otherwise.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> - JohnDi


I start by scraping when its the original finish. Its to hard to sand.


----------



## Brit

Don - Didn't you say for the knob you put a bolt through it and mount it in a drill chuck to sand it?

I haven't sanded many plane totes, but I've sanded a lot of saw totes and for the inside curves, I just wrap my sandpaper around a 1/2" dowel. I start with P80 grit, so it only takes a few swipes in each spot to get through the existing finish. Once I've done everything I can with P80, I go up through the grits to P240. To do a whole saw handle only takes me about an hour. By the way, I hold it in my hand while doing it.


----------



## terryR

Some nicely restored planes lately! I haven't encountered one with clear coat yet…jeez!

Been using P80 grit paper to remove old varnish…might just try a razor blade today…that vintage stuff really clogs the paper. I'm also a hand-sander…only way to sand knobs with the grain. Lots more work that way! LOL.

I think it was Todd that built the cool custom clamping jigs for holding plane totes? Gonna copy it today and wood burn Todd's name on it! I know…pics or it didn't happen…


----------



## john2005

> Hey guys, sorry if this ha s been asked before, but I m having a heck of a time sanding the tote and knob from a #3 I found. Real PITA with the inside curves.
> Wondering if anyone has a good way to do this besides hours of hand sanding.
> I m just trying to get the original cracked finish off as they are both in good shape otherwise.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> - JohnDi


Easiest way I've found is like Brit just said. Chuck the knob up in the drill and use a dowel wrapped in sandpaper on the tote. The only thing I do different, is I came up with a junker plane. I know a lot of others do too as that's where I got the idea. I screw the tote town to it but use its knob hardware with a spacer and nut in the DP. Works good for finishing too.


----------



## john2005

Hahaha, ^ "the Todd".


----------



## terryR

Well, I used to have a photo of Todd's jig on the old iPad, but guess I didn't back it up to The Cloud wherever that is…

So, I apologize for my bastardization of His idea…but here's my plane tote repair jig…










Stupidly, I chose a piece of pine that was previously a fencing jig for the wood, so it's a little warped. Hence the holdfasts in the photo. A new one already appears in my mind with built in vise…but this is better than what i've tried in the past! 

The knob is from the same Sargent plane, and shows the gorgeous Mahogany I'm trying to salvage…


----------



## lateralus819

You guys and your fancy clamping jigs.

I usually just use super glue and it holds instantly.

I havn't had one fail yet, thats just me though!


----------



## ToddJB

Terry, I'm honored. Though yours it far superior to mine:


----------



## john2005

That mammoth vice might be a bit overkill though. Just sayin


----------



## bandit571

Making some raised panels









Bevels were cut with the 5-1/4 Four square, with a clean up with the MF #1455.

The inside side needed a rebate,so









To be housed in grooves cut ny tjis old guy









When things get all clamped up until the joints pull tight, but for now, just a test fit









Top half of this door will get either a screen, or a storm window..


----------



## ToddJB

> That mammoth vice might be a bit overkill though. Just sayin
> 
> - john2005


It's the smallest bench vise I have… lay off me


----------



## Brit

Yeah Todd's just living up to his tag line, ain't that right Todd?


----------



## ToddJB

That's right. You will not see any glue lines in my tote fixes. I get the breaker bar out to tighten that vice down.


----------



## BoardCop

That turned out great Don!!


----------



## terryR

Ahhh…a simple jig indeed, Todd. Wish I had saved that photo! I spent an hour or so chiseling out that 2×10 I chose. Oh well, it's shop time, so is to be enjoyed! LOL! Better than the hour I spent hammering staples into the fence yesterday…

Kevin, I tried CA glue first, but the break was a 90%'er, and really needed to be opened and cleaned thoroughly. After all that, I went with epoxy. And black colorant…NOT trying to hide this fix…don't think I could in mahogany?

Anyhow, the tote is out of the clamps…and a BIG +1 to scraping the old finish off. I got off 95% of the old cracked junk before cutting myself. Time to stop for the day.


----------



## kdc68

> OK, remember this nasty looking thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Broken handles, a "patina" made up of rust and clearcoat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even the frog looked nasty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, got rid of the hex headed tote bolt, added a toe bolt, and got rid of the clearcoat junk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a strip of Oak veneer in the old crack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tote was an easier fix, brass wheel is lefthanded thread. Paint was about 75% left that alone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to sharpen the iron, yet. It even had a thick clearcoat on it, and the chipbreaker, too. DE logo stamped in the iron. Flat face frog
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With that Union Lateral lever. Might be a Union Made type 3?
> 
> - bandit571


v
v

Nice restore !
Couple questions for you and/or the other plane experts
Wasn't the Diamond Edge brand for Norvell-Shapleigh Hardware Company made by Union? (if so, then that would explain the frog) Didn't they also have a molded plastic tote with the DE insignia on it ?


----------



## lateralus819

Yes they did. Great planes. I had a DE-8 that i sold to someone on here.

Had a rubber handle.


----------



## kdc68

> Yes they did. Great planes. I had a DE-8 that i sold to someone on here.
> 
> Had a rubber handle.
> 
> - lateralus819


Thanks for the quick reply !


----------



## MNclone

Stanley #4 type 16






I've got a few more coming but they aren't quite done yet. I started using them prior to finishing up the restore.


----------



## upchuck

> Hey guys, sorry if this ha s been asked before, but I m having a heck of a time sanding the tote and knob from a #3 I found. Real PITA with the inside curves.
> Wondering if anyone has a good way to do this besides hours of hand sanding.
> I m just trying to get the original cracked finish off as they are both in good shape otherwise.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> - JohnDi


I don't think I've ever refinished a knob that didn't have the tool marks on it from the factory lathe. Since the grain runs from top to base on knobs the inside curves can be a pain. Just to remove the finish starting with scraping is a good choice. Sandpaper, even 80 grit, loads up too quickly for me. I use a pocket knife, single edge razor, or utility knife whichever is handiest. If it is a knob that I have repaired then I'll start by masking off areas that I don't want to damage with electrician's tape and use 1/2 round or rattail files to regain the shape I want. When using files I establish the base circumference first and then work on the overall shape. I hold the knob in my hand and check my work by spinning the knob with my eyes closed and feel for lumps and bumps. I have done a couple of knobs that had a bead near the base and I try to preserve the bead in it's original shape and structure. That is a pain.
Then I run through the grits without skipping any from 100 to 500 for rosewood always with the grain and switching directions so I'm always sanding downhill. I was very pleased with a set of beech that I did. For that set I dunked the knob and tote in a jar of BLO & Turpentine (1:1) for 24 or so hours after every grit. I wiped the stuff off again and again until it stopped bleeding and repeated the whole deal over with the next finer grit. That was a 2 week process and I haven't done it again. But if you want to embrace an obsessive compulsion disorder I recommend it.
I'm a bit more nuts about my totes but I don't want to go into it here for fear it might be used against me at a sanity hearing.
chuck


----------



## john2005

> That s right. You will not see any glue lines in my tote fixes. I get the breaker bar out to tighten that vice down.
> 
> - ToddJB


Haha. You would, huh.


----------



## Matt59

Here's a Stanley/Bailey No. 6 I just finished cleaning up. I'm new to planes and bought this to help me flatten my laminated bench top.


----------



## donwilwol

So I restored a type 7(?) #7 for a fellow LJ. It fits the descriptions of a type 7 with everything except it has right handed threads. Right handed threads went out with the type 5, which is a different frog style. I'm a bit intrigued. Anybody ever seen right handed threads on a later plane.


----------



## donwilwol

Dup deleted.


----------



## terryR

Nice work on that No.6, Matt, and good luck with flattening! Flattening my bench with a No.7 was intimidating…until I got started. It was actually straight forward work…ummm…yes, my shoulders were sore the next day! 

Don, that's a weird one…somebody at the factory must've found a right hand threaded post at the bottom of a box, and stuck it in the frog! LOL! I've only seen right handed threads on old Sargents…but I'm still new to this game…only restored about 20 planes.

Here's something strange I found yesterday under the lever cap of a Stanley No.3, type17…










...two little magnets between the cap and breaker. what did I find?


----------



## donwilwol

*Terry* it looks like you found two little magnets between the cap and breaker!

I've never seen that before. I'm not sure what it would do.


----------



## Matt59

> Nice work on that No.6, Matt, and good luck with flattening! Flattening my bench with a No.7 was intimidating…until I got started. It was actually straight forward work…ummm…yes, my shoulders were sore the next day!
> - terryR


Thanks Terry! The 6 worked very well on my bench. I flattened the undersides of it yesterday, using my Handyman smoothing plane as sort of a scrub plane to take big bites out of the rough spots and then the No. 6 to true it up.

I've got a No. 5 coming in today or tomorrow that I can't wait to clean up and start using on my project. And so I go down the slippery slope of old plane restoration…


----------



## terryR

LOL, Thanks, Don! I finally guessed one correctly! All I can figure is that someone was trying to really lever the breaker tighter to the iron? Would be easier to bend the breaker and true the end IMO…but I'm just a retired nurse…

Hey, Matt, one piece of advice on the slippery slope…IF you are married. My wife loves the small planes, maybe since she is petite, but I try to work in a block or 8" transitional once in a while so she can say, "How cute!"


----------



## bandit571

Found on a back porch at a Garage sale, "Barn Fresh"









Had a "H. Disston & Sons" medallion. And a nib. Needed a half of a bolt. Bolts are NOT split nut.









Well, now that the Non-average ScreenDoor is out of the shop, I had a wee bit of time to look things over a bit









Looking a wee bit better? A full view









Money side









and the non-money side. Details









Lamb's Tongue and the number 7. Saw has been sharpened NEW as a crosscut. Still with plenty of set in them SHARP teeth. More









Close up of the cleaned up tote. Brass has been shined up. There is just a star after the "&SONS, no comma.

More









One of these is a replacement slotted head…

Might be a Disston No.7?? Etch is LONG GONE. Well, maybe a ghost of the scales…..

Not too bad…for a dollar?


----------



## CFrye

Bandit, you continue to amaze with the steals you find and restore!


----------



## terryR

Well, now that I'm completely lost as to Sargent typology…I won't even try…

But here's an old rusty 408 I 'won' from fleaBay. When it arrived, the iron and 'breaker were completely rusted together and into the mouth. A week of soaking in penetrating fluid did nothing, so I finally used a screwdriver, mallet, and awl to remove the parts. Leaving sort of a serrated edge to the iron! 










Luckily, a few days' soak in EvapoRust removed all the rust, and 90% of the hack paint job. Cool. From there, I used paint stripper and wire brushes to remove the rest…then re-painted with the usual Ford semi-gloss. The knob was an easy restore, just scrape off old finish, sand to 400 grit, then buff on a coat of wax…the Mahogany is gorgeous to me where some of the old stain is left along a few growth rings!

Unfortunately, the tote broke in 1/2 as soon as I took it off the plane! A thorough cleaning with alcohol, and repair with black epoxy seems sturdy as hell. Again, just the buffed wax for a finish. Although, I went ahead and added a slight mod under the tote during re-construction…non-slip rubber…










And the AFTER shots…



















Turned out pretty nice for a $9.99 plane. It has a nice heft my Stanleys don't seem to share, and loves to slice off the thinnest of shavings. Of course, someone spent a couple of hours re-working the iron! LOL.










I WAS going to call it a Type5, since according to Heckel's photos, this guy has a Type5 iron, and a Type4 cap? But, I'll have to research a bit more to type this plane…except to know it's a great user now!


----------



## summerfi

That's an amazing job Terry. Really excellent work.

Bandit, I'm betting your saw is an 1896-1917 No. 7. Nice saw.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice save Terry. I think you're correct on a type 5, or as close to a type as Sargent's get. It has the brass knob and tote nuts only seen on a type 5 after the folded lateral came about.

A steel adjuster nut is not uncommon on a type 5, but a large majority have brass. he mahogany looks great.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Don.
The adjuster is actually brass plated, just 95% of it has come off…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Well, here's where I meant to post this…..

I found another neglected Lie Nielsen and I just had to save it. It appears somebody bought this no 112, lacquered the handles, and put it on a shelf. The factory grind had never been touched.









-
Unfortunately its storage position cause some oxidation in a line on the sole. 









-
I cleaned the whole thing lightly with barkeepers friend. I attempted to dull the shiny lacquer with steel wool and past wax. She's looking good now. 








-









-
I couldn't quite get that little line totally out of the sole. It's like very mild pitting. I'm sure it could be lapped out…but I'm not nearly that worried about it. 








-
I really do enjoy finding Lie Nielsen tools used when I can. We all know it's tough to find them for a big savings, however you can save some cash if your patient. I doubt Lie Nielsen tools will have big changes and "types" as Stanley tools did, but there are small changes/nuances in there tools over the past 30 years. I just enjoy noting these things and putting the tools back in good order.

-


----------



## BigRedKnothead

unjammy.


----------



## lateralus819

That thing is all kinds of sexy!

I smirk everytime i look on my bench and see my LN #8. Such beauties 

I've a #4 1/2 i bought ages ago i still need to restore LOL.

Burned myself out with the 100+ restores i did heh.


----------



## tpayne

So what do I use to paint the insides ?


----------



## Matt59

> Hey, Matt, one piece of advice on the slippery slope…IF you are married. My wife loves the small planes, maybe since she is petite, but I try to work in a block or 8" transitional once in a while so she can say, "How cute!"
> 
> 
> 
> - terryR


 Funny you should say that, Terry. I got my No. 5 in the mail today and told my fiance about it. She said something along the lines of 'If you keep spending money on tools, we're going to be poor!' I replied, 'Hey, it was only $15 and new ones are $400!' So, I sent her a picture of it and she said 'Awww that one's actually cute!' I thought to myself 'No. 5? Cute? Hey, I'll take that!'

By the way, you did an impressive job on that 408. I especially like the lighter finish on the knob and tote. I'm going to try for that look with the No. 5 I just got.


----------



## CFrye

Awesome save, Terry! 
Red, how is it that you seem to be the only one that finds LN's in the wild?


----------



## donwilwol

> So what do I use to paint the insides ?
> 
> - tpayne


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GKEXVQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000GKEXVQ&linkCode=as2&tag=donwilwoswebsite&linkId=KWJPAQP47SA6JX3T


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Candy- I find most of them on the web. I'll divulge my secrets once my set is complete….(evil laugh).


----------



## john2005

E Vile ^


----------



## donwilwol

We're soon gonna see the "Red's LN second hand shop" sign go up!


----------



## Mosquito

There's a large scraper plane on my local craigslist for $175, and has been for a while…


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Ya Mos, 112s are one LN that consistently don't reach their retail prices when resold. My theory- people don't know how to use them and there's more on the used market.


----------



## Mosquito

I've been tempted to offer $150 and see what happens, but don't know I want to spend that much, even


----------



## donwilwol

offer $135 and let him counter with $150. I think $150 would be a good price if its fairly close to like new.


----------



## JayT

> I ve been tempted to offer $150 and see what happens, but don t know I want to spend that much, even
> 
> - Mosquito


If something like that was around here, I'd offer. Looked up the listing and that LN looks in really good shape. A Stanley 112 in decent shape will cost almost that much.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I'm sure demand plays a part too. For example, iron bodied no 3 and no 4 LNs go for a bigger discount than the bronze. I kinda prefer the iron bodied ones anyway.


----------



## Mosquito

I do too Red.

Ok, sent an e-mail to see if they've still got it. May go from there. It does look to be in excellent shape. It has been listed for quite a while now, so we'll see.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

I've had a couple people comment that bronze smoothers don't slide as well- the sole needs waxed more. I though that was weird. Well, I got that bronze no 4….and they're right. It's strange.


----------



## BoardCop

Here's a Stanley No. 40 scrub plane that was in the tool box my friend gave me. Sorry only 1 before pic.



























The blade is pitted from the rust and the back handle was broken. This will do until I can make new handles.


----------



## racerglen

Very nice work Angie.


----------



## BoardCop

Thank you Glen! It's not much but I'm taking baby steps before I get to the more complicated ones.


----------



## donwilwol

that #40 found a good home! nice work!!


----------



## Tugboater78

Nice work on the scrubber!


----------



## BoardCop

Thanks you guys!!


----------



## MissouriOutdoors88

I'm new to all this stuff but there are some tools laying around the farm that I want to restore. What is the best method for restoring old rusted metal? Chemicals/mechanical measures to use, etc..Thanks!


----------



## CL810

Edit: this posting-linking thing is hard todo.


----------



## MissouriOutdoors88

Thanks!


----------



## CL810

Missouri, peruse Time tested tools and you'll find the best advice you can get.


----------



## Matt59

Missouri-

Electrolysis is great for rust removal. I haven't used Evaporust but judging from the pictures here, it also works really well. These methods help you avoid scratching up metal with a wire wheel or steel brush (something I did a lot before I tried electrolysis). They also use a lot less effort than scrubbing off rust with a brush and oil.

Electrolysis is less expensive than Evaporust for bigger objects. For example, I used electrolysis to de-rust an old blacksmith vise. No matter how I could have placed that thing, it would have taken a large amount of Evaporust to cover the whole thing. However, Evaporust is better than electrolysis for small parts like screws, nuts, bolts, etc. These are harder to link together for a good connection for electrolysis, but they can easily be covered in Evaporust. So, each method has its advantages.


----------



## Handtooler

Matt, Thanks for your comment. Very wise advise. I'll surely file that bit of knowledge away.


----------



## Matt59

> Matt, Thanks for your comment. Very wise advise. I ll surely file that bit of knowledge away.
> 
> - Handtooler


Glad I can help! I need to try to read this entire thread to pick up on how other folks restore their tools…there's a lot of good info here.

Here's the Stanley Bailey No. 5 I got this week. I did a hasty job on it because I needed to use it on my workbench project. The finish was decent, chipped in some places, but the whole tool smelled really bad so I decided to repaint it. I should have stripped the old finish off first for a more smooth finish, but I'm not too worried about how it came out. I sanded the tote and knob and just used wax on them, as opposed to linseed oil and wax, for a lighter finish so the grain might stand out more, but the wood is pretty dark as is so it ended up a bit darker. Anyway, here are the pictures.


----------



## summerfi

I posted this in the vintage drills thread, but it may have some interest here as well. This is a Vaughan & Bushnell No. 444 10 inch bit brace. The handles are rosewood, the ratchet mechanism is fully enclosed, and the chuck is like none I'm familiar with, perhaps a Sampson. The piece nearest the bit remains stationary and the cylindrical piece behind it rotates to move the jaws in and out.

*Before*









*After*


----------



## Handtooler

Very nice restore.


----------



## Matt59

Bob,

Nice job on the brace. How did you refinish the wooden parts?

I may have to pick up an old brace next time I'm out antique tool hunting. I have a bunch of good old drill bits that won't fit in the chucks of my electric drills and I really would like a way to use them.


----------



## summerfi

Matt, I sanded the wooden parts, applied a coat of tung oil, and after that dried, I applied 2 coats of paste wax.


----------



## JohnDi

Not sure if this is the right forum for questions about how to restore, but looking at all the beautiful work here….
I found a Stanley 45 looks like a type 12. Covered in rust, but no pitting. The nickel plating is flaking pretty bad.
Started to clean up with a wire wheel on the grinder, but so many curves and small nooks.
I think my only option is to remove all of the nickel?
Anyone ever had any success bringing one back? What process did you use?


----------



## lateralus819

If it was me I would leave it. From the pictures it looks like it is in good shape.

If the goal is to strip it, I usually sand blast it if it is going to be painted. If not you can wire brush it to bring back a light sheen.


----------



## Mosquito

I would probably leave it as well, I've got a few #45's that have some nickel plating that's flaked off. Otherwise, like Kevin said, you could wire brush or sand blast it too. I've seen someone do that, and then leave it that way before too


----------



## MNclone

Couple planes I recently rehabbed. Here is my blog post about them with a few more pictures.
http://lumberjocks.com/MNclone/blog/42984
This is a type 13 Stanley 5 1/2 that was purchased at a garage sale for $2. The original sweetheart iron was getting pretty short and the top is bent pretty good. I picked up a #8 that someone outfitted with a 2 3/8" iron from Erik Anton Berg. I cleaned that up and put it in the 5 1/2. At some point I will probably try straightening the original iron out, but haven't figured out exactly how I'm going to do that. 


The second rehab project is a Sargent 409. I'm pretty sure the rosewood tote began its life on a Stanley. The knob looks to be some sort of mahogany. 
I have no clue as to the age and typing on it. The logo on the iron is indicative of a type 5 I believe, but it has a right handed thread on the depth adjuster that I think wasn't present on that type. 
This guy will likely end up on eBay because I don't think I am smart enough to have different depth adjusters in my user collection.


----------



## Matt59

> Matt, I sanded the wooden parts, applied a coat of tung oil, and after that dried, I applied 2 coats of paste wax.
> 
> - summerfi


Thanks. I'll give that a try next time.


----------



## Mosquito

> This guy will likely end up on eBay because I don t think I am smart enough to have different depth adjusters in my user collection.
> - MNclone


^ lol

Nice work on the restores, they look great


----------



## theoldfart

A Stanley 110 for $9.75, worth it? It's not a SW, rectangular logo.


----------



## donwilwol

> A Stanley 110 for $9.75, worth it? It s not a SW, rectangular logo.
> 
> - theoldfart


Probably not.


----------



## donwilwol

MNclone, nice restores. It would be interesting to know if that tote would fit a Stanley. It should have a different angle on the tote bolt.

Sargent only did the left handed threads for a short time. I never understood why they switched back. I'm sure it was cost.


----------



## MNclone

> MNclone, nice restores. It would be interesting to know if that tote would fit a Stanley. It should have a different angle on the tote bolt.
> 
> Sargent only did the left handed threads for a short time. I never understood why they switched back. I m sure it was cost.
> 
> - Don W


I put the tote on my Stanley 4 just fine but the brass nut didn't thread all the way down a Stanley rod. So perhaps it is from another brand. The dimple in the bottom of the tote was enlarged to mate with the body.


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Don


----------



## daddywoofdawg

So what are you guy's using for to finish the wood? just sand and oil,or a lot more to it?I have a few wood-sole planes I'd like to restore this winter.ya old planes are easy to find here.


----------



## donwilwol

> So what are you guy s using for to finish the wood? just sand and oil,or a lot more to it?I have a few wood-sole planes I d like to restore this winter.ya old planes are easy to find here.
> 
> - daddywoofdawg


For me it depends on the wood, the use and the condition. For wooden plane I almost always use BLO or if its more of a show piece, maybe Bush oil or something similar. Almost any kind of oil finish you have in the shop would do I think.

I usually sand mine, but only because most of the ones I get are in terrible shape.


----------



## planepassion

MNclone…2 bucks for a 5 1/2? Seriously? That's downright criminal. Enjoy your loot


----------



## lateralus819

I never use oil for plane handles anymore.

I almost sand off the existing finish to bare wood, then apply wax, then wet sand it in. A lot of work, but for something you'll be touching often, it feels incredible.


----------



## theoldfart

"but for something you'll be touching often, it feels incredible" really?


----------



## Airframer

> "but for something you'll be touching often, it feels incredible" really?
> 
> - theoldfart


Yes Really! You HAVE to wax it up and rub in real good till it feels good. Works everytime!


----------



## MNclone

> MNclone…2 bucks for a 5 1/2? Seriously? That s downright criminal. Enjoy your loot
> 
> - Brad


Yeah, didn't even bother looking it over that closely. Just grabbed it and kept it close by my side until I gave the man his $2.


----------



## MNclone

> I never use oil for plane handles anymore.
> 
> I almost sand off the existing finish to bare wood, then apply wax, then wet sand it in. A lot of work, but for something you ll be touching often, it feels incredible.
> 
> - lateralus819


Agreed, I think BLO obscures the rosewood grain too much.  Sanding and wax does nicely.


----------



## JoeRPhilly

A couple I recently restored, stanley 7 and 3. Still need to shine up the sides on the 7 a bit, but they look good now


----------



## donwilwol

They look ready to work!


----------



## summerfi

Stanley No. 112
*Before*



















*After*




























Stanley No. 22
*Before*










*After*




























Stanley No. 42X
*Before*










*After*


----------



## ToddJB

Wow Bob, great job! Did you remove the pins for the saw set, or did you paint it assembled. I have one in my queue.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Nice work Bob. I really like the no 112.


----------



## CL810

Great work Bob!


----------



## DanKrager

Oh Bob! What a wonder you work on those old tools. Wish I could find someone to restore this old body!
DanK


----------



## summerfi

Thanks guys. I need to learn how to properly sharpen and use the 112. My first attempt was less than satisfactory.

Todd, I wanted to take the saw set apart, but I could not get the screw out, even after soaking it in PB Blaster for 2 days and then applying heat. This is the second one I've not been able to get the screw out of, so I don't know what the deal is.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice work Bob. Did you refinish the #112 or did it clean up that well.


----------



## summerfi

I used the DonW method on the 112. About 60% or more of the Japanning was gone, so after soaking in ER I sandblasted the inner surfaces and painted with Ford engine paint.


----------



## donwilwol

It came out great Bob.


----------



## terryR

Very nice work, Bob!
The 112 is stunning!


----------



## JayT

Nice work, Bob.

Sharpening the scraper blade. Easiest is 45 degrees, no hook. It'll work just fine fo finish scraping that way. Then, if it's not aggressive enough, you could add a small hook later.


----------



## racerglen

Bob you are a master Don W pimper..very nice work !


----------



## theoldfart

Whoa Bob, that 112 is a stunner! Great work.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Bob, the veritas scraping plane video might help a bit.


----------



## DonBroussard

Excellent work on those planes and the saw set, Bob! They all look fresh from the store!


----------



## summerfi

Thanks for that reference Red. The video was helpful. LN also has a great video on scraper planes.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Right Bob. As you saw though, the LN no 112 is different because it has a thick blade like traditional planes. I can't decide if I like that better or not


----------



## BoardCop

Really nice!!!


----------



## TheFridge

Some of my brothers father in law tools I picked up.

Forgot to take a pic of the Disston 24" wood level.

He had a stanley 6c, 5, and a defiance c557mf? Is the defiance essentially a #3?


----------



## donwilwol

Fridge, you can match the size up at supertool.com


----------



## TheFridge

Thanks


----------



## racerglen

Nice catch, also nice they have the big size of Evaporust available now LOL, think that's a winter's worth of projects !


----------



## TheFridge

Tell me about it. Think I'm gonna go for electrolysis since I can get battery charger for free. I've seen how it's done but never payed close enough attention to the process. I know you essentially hook one lead to the item and one in the water. Some insight would be helpful. Thanks.


----------



## ToddJB

That process would be a pain with small items like this, because all the pieces have to be touching for it to work. I'd go for a big bath of citric acid. You can buy a 5lb bag at a home brew store for cheap and it will last you a lifetime.


----------



## kdc68

Union X8 in good condition and original except for the iron that is marked Lakeside (Stanley made plane for the department store chain Montgomery Wards). The chip breaker is a Union. The two (Lakeside iron and Union chip breaker) were fused together by rust and I had to separate with a couple whacks from a rubber mallet. The bolt in the vertical depth adjustment assembly was also very rusty. The brass wheels had limited movement. The japanning overall isn't bad with most of the loss in and around the mouth. Tote and knob has some finish loss and the tote has a small chip missing and possibly the horn was rounded over a little at the tip. The pressure style lever cap rusty but in great condition.
v








v









Luckily a Union #8 iron came up on eBay and so I was able to have an appropriate iron. It too was rusty but has a lot of life left in it being almost full length. After giving this plane a good soak in Evaporust and some cleaning here it is. I got a surprise during cleaning when the depth adjustment lower wheel revealed a patent of 6-28-04. Turned out very well and the vertical adjustment works flawlessly with the rust removed. I still have to touch up the finish on the tote and knob (coats of shellac) and sharpen the iron, all of which will happen another day
v








v


----------



## donwilwol

nice union!!. Well done!


----------



## kdc68

> nice union!!. Well done!
> 
> - Don W


Compliment appreciated ! Thanks Don


----------



## donwilwol

> Tell me about it. Think I m gonna go for electrolysis since I can get battery charger for free. I ve seen how it s done but never payed close enough attention to the process. I know you essentially hook one lead to the item and one in the water. Some insight would be helpful. Thanks.
> 
> - TheFridge


Buy a bag of
citric acid








. No battery charger needed.


----------



## lateralus819

I want that x8 in the worst way….lol

That lever cap is so cool. I had a No. X4 that i sold. It was pretty cool. Wish i had a #x 2-3/8" though ;(


----------



## terryR

Love the Union heft and hubris!

Here's my little Stanley no.3, Type17. Before…



















Looked to be in pretty good shape…till I took it out of the ER soak, and the paint began to come off with a toothbrush! I promise I'm NOT out to re-paint every plane I restore, just lately every one has a 10 year old paint job covering rust. Arrghhh!

So, this one was also stripped by hand to bare metal, taped up on Halloween in hopes of paint…










And, AFTER…










I scraped the old finish off the wood (what was remaining), and experimented with finishes until I happened upon this combination. Looks pretty good for Beech! If anyone wants to take my recipe and experiment with it…I used 2 coats of TransFast Red Mahogany dye sorta weak, then 2 coats of Minwax Red Mahogany stain diluted 50/50 with Spirits, and 2 light coats of spray shellac.

Unfortunately, the original iron on the Type17 is badly pitted on the backside. In order to be re-sharpened, I'd have to remove at least 3/4" of steel. So, I'm letting this one stay as is. I'll slowly search for a replacement iron, but in the meantime, Type19 was happy to lend it's iron for a few shavings…










And, so, my Stanley No.3 Collection officially begins with TWO members. 17 & 19. 11 is underway…10 was just purchased last night…5 is upstairs…


----------



## TheFridge

Sounds good to me. Thanks.


----------



## kdc68

> I want that x8 in the worst way….lol
> 
> That lever cap is so cool. I had a No. X4 that i sold. It was pretty cool. Wish i had a #x 2-3/8" though ;(
> 
> - lateralus819


Yeah it is cool. I can almost see my reflection in it. Patting myself on the back bringing this to life. Thanks for the compliment !


----------



## lateralus819

Welcome KDC. I've always loved the look of those x series, especially the jointers.

Im a big fan of the Edwin Hahn planes too.


----------



## kdc68

> Love the Union heft and hubris!
> 
> Here s my little Stanley no.3, Type17. Before…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looked to be in pretty good shape…till I took it out of the ER soak, and the paint began to come off with a toothbrush! I promise I m NOT out to re-paint every plane I restore, just lately every one has a 10 year old paint job covering rust. Arrghhh!
> 
> So, this one was also stripped by hand to bare metal, taped up on Halloween in hopes of paint…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, AFTER…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I scraped the old finish off the wood (what was remaining), and experimented with finishes until I happened upon this combination. Looks pretty good for Beech! If anyone wants to take my recipe and experiment with it…I used 2 coats of TransFast Red Mahogany dye sorta weak, then 2 coats of Minwax Red Mahogany stain diluted 50/50 with Spirits, and 2 light coats of spray shellac.
> 
> Unfortunately, the original iron on the Type17 is badly pitted on the backside. In order to be re-sharpened, I d have to remove at least 3/4" of steel. So, I m letting this one stay as is. I ll slowly search for a replacement iron, but in the meantime, Type19 was happy to lend it s iron for a few shavings…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And, so, my Stanley No.3 Collection officially begins with TWO members. 17 & 19. 11 is underway…10 was just purchased last night…5 is upstairs…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - terryR


Thanks Terry. The finish is gorgeous !....I will keep that recipe for future use. Thanks for the compliment !


----------



## kdc68

Oops… duplicate post


----------



## summerfi

That's a mighty pretty Union, kdc68. Great job!

Wow, Terry, I'm impressed by your masking job. I thought you were a nurse in a former life, not a surgeon. The finish on the handles looks spectacular. Perfect I'd say.


----------



## kdc68

> That s a mighty pretty Union, kdc68. Great job!
> 
> Wow, Terry, I m impressed by your masking job. I thought you were a nurse in a former life, not a surgeon. The finish on the handles looks spectacular. Perfect I d say.
> 
> - summerfi


Thanks for the compliment summerfi !


----------



## donwilwol

Nice work on those #3's Terry. The collections coming alone.

Fridge, here is Al's electrolysis blog, http://lumberjocks.com/Bertha/blog/23687


----------



## kdc68

> Welcome KDC. I ve always loved the look of those x series, especially the jointers.
> 
> Im a big fan of the Edwin Hahn planes too.
> 
> - lateralus819


Yeah I am too. Here's a photo of a Union X6 that's next in line for a restore. It is in better condition than what the X8 started out to be and so I'm confident that it will come out looking just as good.
v


----------



## terryR

Bob, you might be surprised at the skills a good Nurse has to acquire!  Let's just say that I can cut a straighter line with a scalpel than a backsaw…still.

Love the Union family shot…very impressive!

Don, Thanks. If you accidentally bought any more rusty no.3's at the end of the season, hit me up for a trade! I had forgotten the allure of The Collection…and even paid $70 for a type10 off fleaBay a few nights ago.

There must be a cure? Think I'll try some citric acid…


----------



## lateralus819

Dude, that union family! So nice! I have 3 unions.

Two 4 1/2 sizes one pre-stanley and a #3. I like them.


----------



## kdc68

> Bob, you might be surprised at the skills a good Nurse has to acquire!  Let s just say that I can cut a straighter line with a scalpel than a backsaw…still.
> 
> *Love the Union family shot…very impressive!*
> 
> Don, Thanks. If you accidentally bought any more rusty no.3 s at the end of the season, hit me up for a trade! I had forgotten the allure of The Collection…and even paid $70 for a type10 off fleaBay a few nights ago.
> 
> There must be a cure? Think I ll try some citric acid…
> 
> - terryR





> Dude, that union family! So nice! I have 3 unions.
> 
> Two 4 1/2 sizes one pre-stanley and a #3. I like them.
> 
> - lateralus819


Thanks guys !.....Been building my collection awhile now and still not done yet.


----------



## BoardCop

Very nice! I'm working on a #3 now. Learning as I go


----------



## terryR

Knob and tote from Stanley No.3, type11…sure looks like the East Indian Rosewood in my stock…










How do you guys usually repair a tote like this? Glue on extra mass, then drill from the base? The counterbore should be a challenge by hand!

The lil knob is also missing a slice…about to become a larger slice. Hope I can restore it on the lathe? Would like to keep this guy all matching parts from the factory, ya know?


----------



## donwilwol

here's how I do the knobs, http://www.timetestedtools.com/knob-base-repair.html

Edit: Or just glue a small piece and shape by hand depending on condition.

The tote I glue on a piece, drill from the bottom with a 1/4" drill, then from the top with a 7/16" spade bit. The point on the spade bit should keep it centered.


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Don.

Very cool knob repair! Somehow, I missed that one…


----------



## JayT

> The tote I glue on a piece, drill from the bottom with a 1/4" drill, then from the top with a 7/16" spade bit. The point on the spade bit should keep it centered.


That's how I've had the best success, as well.


----------



## upchuck

terrtR-

For that small piece out of your knob I'd go for a small repair instead of cutting off the whole base.

"Would like to keep this guy all matching parts from the factory, ya know." I totally agree.

I'd take a chisel and smooth the sides of the chip in the knob and epoxy a small piece of B. Rosewood into the void. The required repair piece looks like it would be smaller than the end of a chop stick. Then I'd shape it with 1/2 round files and sandpaper. Finish to taste.

chuck


----------



## planepassion

TerryR, my techniques for replacing a beaver tail are detailed here.


----------



## summerfi

+1 what Chuck said. A small gouge would work perfect to clean up the broken part of the knob, and then glue in a piece shaped to fit.


----------



## terryR

Thanks for the tips, gang! Using Don's confidence, both repairs went great yesterday! A sharp knife and chisel prepped the knob for new wood…then I just slowly turned it on the lathe back to original shape. Worked great!

For the tote, I added rosewood, then used the lathe again to drill the through hole at 3/16"...










...using TWO jaws of a 4-jaw chuck…the same way I turned those pipe stummels. Then, I reversed the tote and bored for the brass hardware…tricky…










Came out great! The friggin grain in the original and new woods are insane, so were difficult to match up. Thanks for the advice everyone! Two weeks ago, I wouldn't have tried this save, thinking it was over my head since it involved the totes's hole. But, the lathe with a lil practice, does fine at boring jobs!

Still stripping the old paint…


----------



## DocBailey

*Brad*

Awesome grain-matching and overall execution on your #5 1/2 handle repair!










From Brad's blog-a shot of the repaired rear handle


----------



## planepassion

Thanks Doc. I guess the third beaver-tail repair is the charm. Lot's learned over previous iterations.


----------



## bobro

> *Brad*
> 
> Awesome grain-matching and overall execution on your #5 1/2 handle repair!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From Brad s blog-a shot of the repaired rear handle
> 
> - DocBailey


Dang man that is some fine craftsmanship.


----------



## CFrye

Wow! Great repairs, Brad and Terry!


----------



## ColonelTravis

This comes way too late but I need to thank Greg In Maryland publicly. He sent me a tote and knob for free a long time ago for a No. 8 I rehabbed, which had bad cracks in the handle.

Don't have an actual scrub, so for flattening the benchtop I'm working on I started with a 5 and after a few minutes I said - this is nuts. Grabbed the 8 and went to town. 









Thanks Greg.

No before picture, but if it had been a person it would have been this guy


----------



## donwilwol

yea, I was having a bad day that day…...

Nice rehab on the 8!


----------



## theoldfart

Hmmm, Don's looking better these days, a lot more spring in his step.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Don't know why people shy away from 8's and go to 7's. To me the weight/size difference is marginal.
The 8 absolutely plows through everything and you don't need as much effort as you'd think. It's The Beastmaster! I feel like I need a lion mascot sitting in my garage with me.


----------



## Mosquito

Before and after of a saw I got from my Grandfather after he passed away this spring. Medallion dates it between 1896-1917. Not completely done, as I still have to sharpen it and repair the horn on the tote.


----------



## Handtooler

She's a bute!


----------



## donwilwol

It looks great Mos.


----------



## bondogaposis

That's a really nice saw.


----------



## terryR

^hey, it has your name on it, Mos!
I love it!


----------



## ToddJB

Great job, Mos. I looks like you have the horn, was it screwed on?


----------



## planepassion

Mos, is Albee your grandfather's owner's stamp? That would be really cool if it was.


----------



## Mosquito

Thanks! I actually added the Albee stamp myself, but that is my/his last name. I've never put an owners mark on anything I've owned before, but I felt like this one was deserving 

I do have the horn, and it was screwed on, but there was also a piece broken off the side of the horn. It must have been quite an old break/repair, as the wood between the two wasn't in very good shape. I tried to clean it with a wire brush so I could glue it back on, but a lot of it just crumbled away


----------



## ChrisTheWheeler

Part of our kitchen reno

Salvaged cabinets carcasses. 









During:









After:









a


----------



## planepassion

Mos, you adding the owner's stamp is even cooler! Adding your own part to the family history of the too.


----------



## bandit571

$5 at a "Moving Day sale









8" hand brace









Cleaned it up a bit. Found some names on it. 
Stanley Rule & Level Co.
New Britain CONN USA

was on the chuck. On an arm was "VICTOR" and a "No. 935 8in"

A good rub down with a wire brush , adn some Neverdull









Looks like it just came from the store. Handles are Rosewood.









May have to find a spring for inside the chuck, though









Other than that, not too bad for a $5 100+ year old brace?


----------



## racerglen

This is a oops, didn't do the pre shots,
an 1 1/4" Sure Kut, made in USA socket chisel.









The electrical tape wrapped thing is what it came with, socket was deformed by hammer blows both in and out.
Dremel for the inside, grinder for the outside. Happened to have the handle from a butcher job somebody'd done to make a file handle, filled the hole with a scrap piece, wait for it, of Teak, some slight adjustments and ..








It actualy blends in pretty well with my Dad's Edge Rites and the diamond edge set I've buiilt up, all the way from 1/4 to 2" 
Modified a hose washer as a shock washer.


----------



## terryR

Nice repair, Glen!

Here's my next Stanley No.3, Type11.
Before









Repaired the knob and tote with the wrong species of wood, so no Brad-like repairs this time…










After new paint…


















...and the money shot…










a few more photos on my Blog.


----------



## dbray45

Nice work - a real keeper!


----------



## planepassion

TerryR, the contours of the beaver tail repair look to be well executed and blended in with the original tote surfaces. That's no easy feat so congrats on that. The contrast with what looks to me like crotch walnut looks cool too.

Of course the proof of the pudding is in the smoothing it does. And judging from the shavings you've got that puppy tuned to perfection.


----------



## bandit571

Came in today. A Millers Falls Type 5 #14-01B









Somewhat rusty.









We'll see what the Dungeon Rehab Shop can do for it









Well, after maybe an hour's time, a test drive on some Cherry?









Looks a wee bit better? The chipbreaker was about the worse part of the plane, had a curve to it , like a smile. No cracks were found, Edge even looked factory bevel. Slight camber to it.









May not be exact flat, but it will do for a Jack plane. tried a block of White oak









Seemed to do OK, considering the grain on this board was a might squirrelly









Plane isn't as "refined" as the Type 4 #14 I have. One piece lever cap, no frog adjust bolt. Uses Phillip headed ( #3 sized!) bolts for the handles, and frog bolts. Otherwise, just a Millers Falls Jack Plane.

BTW, tote is a single bolt type, there being a tube-like part in the base where a toe bolt would be.

Half afraid to strip the VERY thick red finish off the handles, too.


----------



## summerfi

Stanley/Bailey No. 21 *Before*



















*After*



















And here it is with my No. 22. They make a nice pair. Anyone know why one has the Bailey casting on it and the other does not? Just an age difference?


----------



## donwilwol

Those came out great Bob. The "Stanley" casting started in 1909.


----------



## racerglen

Very nice work Bob !


----------



## BoardCop

Very nice!!!


----------



## BoardCop

Here's a #3 I picked up at a garage sell for $8. Lots of fun with this one! I decided to paint the frog dark blue just because. I'm having a heck of a time getting the wood the color I want. The tote had already been sanded so I didn't want to take much more off.


----------



## Handtooler

Fantastic refurb! You're good.


----------



## CL810

Real nice Angie.


----------



## summerfi

Finally got around to cleaning up my Yankee No. 1555 breast drill. This thing is a beast. It exceeded the capacity of my postal scale, but on the bath scale it looks to be around 7 pounds. It's also an engineering marvel. Five ratcheting positions x 2 speeds. The lower handle was missing and the crank handle was in poor shape, so I made new handles out of mahogany, I would have thought the frame, at least, would have originally been painted, but I saw no evidence of paint anywhere so I just left the metal bare. One of the gears has 3 or 4 chipped teeth, but it doesn't seem to affect performance. I think this is a really cool looking tool.

*Before*




























*After*


----------



## BoardCop

Thank you guys!!!


----------



## BoardCop

That's a pretty cool looking tool Bob! Nice!!


----------



## racerglen

Beauty Bob, more nice work..mind your toes with that monster !


----------



## racerglen

The befores seem to have gone into cycber space..
Anyway 1904 patent 10" Stanley Rule and Level bevel guage.









Picked it up a decade or more ago, blade rusted n' pitted, just hung on a wall for that time, missing one of the brass scales at the base, then Evaporust came along, hadn't seen the patent date until now.









Ah, a partial decal..









And a replacement brass scale..


----------



## summerfi

That turned out nice Glen. Love the 100 year old decal.


----------



## ToddJB

Bob, that breast drill is amazing.


----------



## CL810

Bob, that drill looks great! Mahogany was a good choice. How do you change speeds?


----------



## summerfi

There's a little lever at the base of the crank. You just flip that, and an internal cog disengages the crank from one gear and engages another. Very simple, but ingenious.


----------



## donwilwol

nice work Bob. I love those saws, but the drill looks pretty sweet to. Not sure what else I missed!!


----------



## Slyy

That breast drill turned out great Bob!


----------



## summerfi

Jake? Long time no see pal.


----------



## MikeUT

This is my first post on here, I've restored several planes in the last few months but this is the first one that is unique. I got this Stanley Gage, a Stanley no 5 and 190 for $25. They were VERY greasy and had been in a metal shop which pretty much destroyed the wood. I had to remake the knob and tote and cleaned up the grease and rust. I will probably sell this one so I can buy more planes but I haven't decided yet. The japanning isn't in great shape but I haven't perfected my plane painting skills and I didn't want to practice on a plane like this. Hopefully I did it justice.













































I didn't realize the blade said 'GAGE SELF SETTING PLANE' until I cleaned it up.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job Mike. That's a great G4#


----------



## bandit571

Been working over the BIG planes today, swapped out two irons between a #5-1/2 and a #6c. Big improvement for both planes









The Stanley #5-1/5 T19, with a Berg iron onboard. Acting like a Jointer? Next









The DE6c, with the iron from the T19 Jumbo Jack. Seems to do a lot better, now. Tried a couple others out, to see IF they needed any work. First off









Ohio Tool Co. #81 try plane. Still have it a might too deep of a cut. Seems to be ok to use…









The Stanley #31 Jointah plane. About as big as we get down here in the Dungeon Shop. The board for the test track was held by both a leg vise, and









That hook-like thingy….Crochet? As for the main "crew" down here









They need to find somewhere ELSE to sit, besides the top of my Tool Chest II….


----------



## Slyy

> Jake? Long time no see pal.
> 
> - summerfi


Heh, yeah school is just stealing my life away Bob! Hardly had time in my shop this while semester! Finally got around to restoring a Millers Falls 120 breast drill of my grandfather's I'll post about (iphone camera died though!).

Just trying to poke my head in once in a while until school calms down and I can get back to business, Lumberjocks of course!!!

Edit to add: I'm still lurking around reading posts, so don't forget about me, just not enough time to participate currently. I'll return more officially eventually though, always miss chatting it up with everyone.


----------



## CL810

> (iphone camera died though!).
> 
> - Slyy


Ya, ya, ya and the check's in the mail. ;-). Good to hear from you Jake.


----------



## MikeUT

> Nice job Mike. That s a great G4#
> 
> - Don W


Thanks Don, I followed your blog to make the tote and knob and am happy with how they turned out.


----------



## grfrazee

An old miter square, not sure the maker. Couldn't find any mark on it.

Before:


















And After:




































I haven't decided if I want to remake the scales yet. They're a little small and have some edge defects that bug me. I have some texas ebony from BlueStingrayBoots that would go well with the square that I may use.


----------



## Mosquito

Love it grfrazee! Looks great


----------



## daddywoofdawg

was it in a fire,or was there no wood in the handle?


----------



## racerglen

Very nice and x2 to daddy woof dawg..


----------



## grfrazee

I have no idea the history of the tool (bought it at an auction a year or so ago) but I don't think it's from a fire. I think that's just years and years of grime built up.


----------



## wormil

Ah, I'd lost track of this thread.

Dandee Reel chalk line. Took 3 applications of Naval Jelly + wire brush.










Came from this pile 'o stuff I bought the other day. The plane (pics in plane thread) and chalk line are done. The brace is almost done, just need to refinish the wood; it's a Stanley 78. The oil can is done, all I did was degrease the outside and wipe it down. The level I'm not going to fool with. The blow torch will be fun, will probably do that over the holiday.


----------



## Slyy

First chalk liner a recall in the thread, great catch and revitalization there Rick!


----------



## donwilwol

interesting chaulk line Rick. Do you know what year(s) it was made?


----------



## wormil

I know they were in business in the 40's, but that's all I know Don.


----------



## Timbo

Looking for a Millers Falls #8 smoother sole, anybody have an extra?

Shoot me a pm if so.


----------



## donwilwol

http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2014/11/27/some-before-and-after-pictures-of-a-type-2-stanley-18/


----------



## terryR

^pure porn to me eyes! Nice save, Don.

So…how many 18's you up to now?


----------



## donwilwol

> ^pure porn to me eyes! Nice save, Don.
> 
> So…how many 18 s you up to now?
> 
> - terryR


----------



## terryR

^sweet!


----------



## davidroberts

Don's #18s

My eyes! So much glare from buffed and polished knuckle caps. My doctor said "You been blinded by looking at too much tool porn!!!

Rick M. chalk box - Frank Howarth has some of the most entertaining woodworking videos on youtubbby, one of which he uses a chalk reel just like your find. Now I know what a 100 year old chalk box looks like.


----------



## jmartel

So that's where all the #18's in the world are.


----------



## summerfi

I'll never be a Don, but I did finish up this No. 19 this morning. It was in pretty good shape except someone had painted the cap black. What would you say the type/date is on this one?


----------



## donwilwol

Bob, I can look it up later if you post a picture of the lateral.


----------



## summerfi

Thanks Don. Patent dates on the lateral are 1.17.88, 7.24.88, and 8.3.97. Patent date on the body is also 8.3.97.


----------



## donwilwol

probably a type 6 Bob. (1901-1902)


----------



## summerfi

Thanks Don!


----------



## donwilwol

and a very ice job on the restore. Are you putting it to work, or letting it rest for a while?


----------



## summerfi

I don't know yet Don. Do you need another for your collection? I have plenty of block planes for working. I know a lot of people like the knuckle caps, but to be honest they aren't my favorites for using. I really didn't do much to this one other than take it apart, soak in evaporust, and wire brush the paint off the cap. I believe someone had previously painted over the Japanning, but it doesn't look bad. The mouth has some light nicks in it which don't hurt anything but appearance. I could be talked out of it, or may decide to put it on ebay sometime. It's my only knuckle cap currently, so it wouldn't hurt to hold onto it too.


----------



## donwilwol

it would really depend on your definition of "need" Bob. I don't have a type 6 yet. If you decide to sell or trade, let me know.


----------



## donwilwol

Another knuckle anyone?

This time An Ohio Tools 019 Knuckle Block Plane

More pic's on my blog.


----------



## Slyy

Bob, that 19 came out awful purty! I need to find me some knuckle draggers!


----------



## bandit571

A "Different" Knuckle cap. Made for Columbia









Otherwise, looks like a Stanley









As for that Stanely SW #220, gave it a refresher on the paint









As that cap iron was almost bare metal. Left the wheel alone, though









Just a #220 Block plane









Seems I have a couple SW stanleys sitting around









That #103 was just a dollar bill at a garage sale last year. They thought it was a toy…...


----------



## ksSlim

Nice, I like block planes. Handy little buggers.


----------



## Slyy

Well I got my Black Friday shopping and found some more to line up for clean up:









Couple D-8's, both look like they're from the post War Era, one seems in great condition minus a couple cracks in the toat/tote/handle and one that has no plate left but for a measly few bucks I have a great toat/tote/handle and hardware for future use. Two Atkins as well, one fairly modern looking with machine cut toat/tote/handle and steel hardware, plus my first brass hardware Atkins that I can't identify model yet. The Brass Atkins has a beat up toat/tote/handle but has vine carving and I can most likely get it fixed up. Also grabbed a #4 size so far no name smoother. It has Millers Falls looking furniture with the thick red varnish/shellac a clean up will tell more hopefully.
All was had for under $25 so some good Black Friday deals there!

I gotta say that I love to imagine some stories behind these old tools, just look at everything that Atkins has been through: several sets of carved initials, broken and repaired several times, guess it was used hard!









Hopefully can share some before and afters soon!


----------



## summerfi

Glad you're finding some time for rust hunting, Jake. Those will be some work, but hopefully will be rewarding in the end. Are you trying to be PC with the toat/tote/handle? LOL I'd say pick one and go with it. ;-)


----------



## Slyy

Trying to be PC?

Haha, just doing it for the lawl's Bob. I thought the earlier discussion was interesting and funny. Always odd how words tend to creep into regular use. Etymology is an interesting course of study.

And incidentaly, had to update my DPTA titers a week ago, so all caught up on my tetanus vaccine just prior to actually getting some hunting in!!!


----------



## Slyy

In one of those "hindsight is always 20/20" moments, I realize how much I missed out not getting more of my grandfather's old wood working tools. I've perhaps told part of the story before but to keep it short, when I was about 19 my grandparents moved to a assisted living facility and had an estate auction. I probably could have had whatever tools I wanted but little did I know at the time how the wood bug would bite me bad 10 years later, if only I had…..

However, some of his tools survived and were passed to me after my own father died a few years ago. Among one of the woodworking related pieces was this Millers Falls 120B. This was manufactured from 1948 until 1964. I have several tools (mostly mechanic related) that date to 1945-1948 time period when Grandpa Pete got back from WWII, married, bought a house and all the items related to those things so I'm guessing he purchased this likely right about 1948, though no way to know for sure besides that which I know about him.

Well here are a couple befores:


















And after some good cleaning, little wire wheel work and touching up the frame, here's how she is now:



























I'm not sure what it is about these old Breast Drills but it seems to me that often the frames are in much worse condition overall (especially with rust) than the turn wheels. As a result I have several that I have only moderately touched up the wheels but had to completely redo the japanning/paint on the frames because they loose just about all coverage during the clean up process. Just an interesting point to note if anyone else finds this true.

Anyway, she'll make a great addition to the stable and I'm certain I'll find something to put her to work on so she can go on living a helpful tool life!


----------



## summerfi

Nice job Jake. Tools with a family history are the best kind.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice save Jake. Its great you know the history.


----------



## Slyy

Well finals week has, surprisingly, given me additional time to actually get out in the shop.
Here's another one: Disston D-8 post war era. This one had the bottom portion of the tote separated, the original owner (presumably PAO) had fixed it only by drilling up the tote and putting a screw in there. He may not have drilled deep enough or large enough for his chosen screw as the tote split longitudanly as well.
I cleaned it up and in my typical fashion repaired and reshaped it using Acraglas two part epoxy and some hand files/rasps. On this one, between the carved initials, previous repairs and signs of wear, I decided to do less sanding of the plate and tote to keep in more of the patina, kinda dig the stories it has to tell.

Some before:

































And after:





































I'll get 'er sharpened up and put her to use, hopefully on the beginning of a bench build over Christmas break!


----------



## donwilwol

nice work Jake.


----------



## Slyy

Thx Don Yoda, getting quite a stable of saws. Just gotta make a vise and start sharpening!


----------



## wormil

Hardly worth posting but what the heck. Picked up a trio of these Stanley 501A squares for 1/2 a sawbuck. Previous owner had left glue all over them and they rusted a bit. They won't win any beauty contests but are dead nuts square.


----------



## donwilwol

If ya got the pic's ya might as well post em!

And dead nuts square is about all that matters.

Nicely done Rick!


----------



## Slyy

And the end of the year provides yet more time! A seemingly no-name $5 no 4 size that might become a scrub plane. A little clean up revealed it had a Defiance marked blade and the handle was originally coated in what was left of a very think reddish lacquer. Originally it struck me as very Millers Falls like but after seeing the name on the blade it I'm sure it was Stanley's cheap defiance lacquer!! 
Not a collectible in any way but it will make a good user eventually!
The as found condition:



























And ready for work again:



























Good to be back to having a bit of shop time! Trying to put it to good work!


----------



## daddywoofdawg

I have a user plane i got at a auction with other planes,what did you use to clean yours up?


----------



## Slyy

Daddy, my typical plane clean up involves:
Disassembly, use a razor blade on all non Painted/japanned flattish surfaces to remove the bulk of the rust, brass wheel the surfaces after that, use order less mineral spirit and combination of nylon and brass brush to clean the nooks and crannies and all japanned/painted metal surfaces then wipe all the metal down with mineral spirit, set it out to dry then it goes for a bath in evaporust for about 24 hrs, followed by brass wheel on the grinder again for all non-painted surfaces and more brass/nylon brush for painted ones to remove the chelated iron from the bare metal. If I'm gonna refinish as well, bare parts taped up and the requisite DupliColor ford black enamel goes on for several coats with at least 5 days between coats until it gets to the desired finish, then usually put some paste wax on and buff after for rust protection.

The wood furniture usually has badly broken down shellac/varnish etc on it that gets scrapped off using a piece of scrap softwood then denatured alcohol and 00 steel wool to remove whatever is left, then if it needs attention for repairs and/or sanding I do that next then use danish oil applications followed by paste wax (I'm not a fan of the shiny looking plane/saw furniture).

Also, post pics! We all like to see tools from dirty to Sundays best!


----------



## wormil

I can't speak for Slyy but I use a citrus based degreaser, wonderful stuff, and it will remove paint if you leave it too long, not sure about Japanning as I've never left it on long enough. It's just the generic Home Depot brand. Also cleans a saw blade in about minute, scrubbing included.


----------



## bandit571

From a pile of nasty parts









With a strange looking handle thingy on one end









On a body so worn down the the "No. 26" was…gone

To a rebuilt #26 jack plane









With a refreshed body ( without a tapered length) a "new" iron ( original was down to 1/2" from the slot) and a brand newly repaired tote from the scrap parts drawer









Redrilled the top hole into the new walnut add-on









And a few coats of BLO. Plane was $15, with "free shipping"


----------



## bandit571

Test drive, with the old tote still on board









New sole had to be tapered to replace what had been worn away









About a 1/2" difference from end to end. Chopped a new mouth opening through the new sole









Then flatten the new sole to the right thickness









Checked with a straightedge. Frog's yoke had a problem, someone had ground the tab that engages the chipbreaker's slot, to set the depth, until it was gone.









Old yoke, vs a "new" Union yoke. Pin was a little thicker than the Union's hole. Drilled it out, and slid the pin home.

Took most of one day for the main repairs. Had to wait on the tote repair 
overnight. Shaped it on the scrollsaw to rough it out, then a beltsander to smooth it out. Looks better than one with two extra brass screws instead of a horn…


----------



## summerfi

Double post, but hey, I like the saw. 1850-ish J. Flint brass back.

*Before*










*After*


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Bravo Bob. Bravo!


----------



## ToddJB

Dang Bob. Killer


----------



## donwilwol

Smokin saw restore Bob!!


----------



## theoldfart

Impressive resurrection Bob


----------



## terryR

Awesome work, Bob.
A new, 150 year old saw!


----------



## DaddyZ

Nice Saw !!!


----------



## CL810

Bob, I think I'd call that saw The Phoenix. Looks beautiful.


----------



## Slyy

Love when Evapo-Rust helps increase the depth of the saw plate as well Bob! Excellent work, as always!


----------



## wormil

A little off topic but I think you guys are the right ones to ask-I recently bought an edged tool off ebay. I knew the cutting edge was chipped and I was willing to deal with that. But when received it was also plainly cracked in 2 places. That was not in the description and not visible from the pics. The cracks didn't look very deep so I decided that since I had to grind the edge anyway I would go ahead and hopefully grind the cracks out. Well turns out the cracks are deeper than they looked. I contacted the seller and got no reply. I'm willing to keep the tool but am aggravated because I wouldn't have bought it had I known about the cracks. I don't think the cracks impair the tool but they destroy any possibility of resale and any inherent value should I decide later to sell it. Since the seller won't reply, my only options are request a refund/return or neg the seller and move on. The seller has several thousand feedback, all positive, so I don't take negging them lightly. On the other hand, I don't feel right about requesting a return since I modified the item by grinding it. Advice?


----------



## john2005

Dang Bob, that is one sharp lookin saw!!! 
.....see what I did there
Also looks like you got your plate strecher up and running


----------



## summerfi

Rick - This is just my opinion; others may differ. Had you not modified the tool, I think you would have been justified in requesting a refund. If the seller didn't respond to your request in a favorable manner, then I think you would have been justified in leaving negative feedback and filing a refund request and/or complaint with ebay.

Since you did modify it, then you'll have to eat it. You could still leave negative feedback, especially since the seller didn't respond. Leaving neutral feedback is also an option. Be sure to give the seller adequate time to respond. He could be out of town or something similar.

I've come to accept that getting fooled once in a while is just a part of doing business on ebay. I have 2 or 3 saws that looked good in the pictures, but are unusable and unsaleable. In the big picture it's not worth losing sleep over, so I'll just hang onto them as a reminder. I've also bought some things that were better than expected, so it all evens out in the long run.


----------



## donwilwol

Rick, I would open a case anyway. If you've contacted the seller and they didn't respond, then I think you have a case. When I have had sellers respond to similar issues, and are willing to work with me, I'll take a bit of a hit, because like Bob said, its part of doing business on ebay. But if they ignore me, and won't deal with it, I let ebay deal with it. That's the process we have to deal with.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Yepper. Might be hosed since you've modified it. But I've had people ignore me (one who just never sent my order), but they suddenly listen when paypal contacts them about a claim.


----------



## Tim457

I agree with Don and Red, but I'd give them through the holidays to respond unless it's already been over a month since you tried contacting them. You did modify it before taking up the issue with the seller so I wouldn't go all out on them and leave negative feedback, but the pictures and description weren't accurate about the condition and that's not cool.


----------



## wormil

Thanks everyone. If the seller had just replied with hey I'm sorry, that would have gone a long way. But to not reply at all, irked me. This person still has auctions running so I doubt they are out of town. And with several thousand all positive feedback, doesn't strike me as someone who would normally be difficult. I'll give him a few more days to respond.


----------



## racerglen

I posted this a couple weeks ago, a number 80 but couldn't find a makers mark..


















Add some BLO and pop..on the nose, in an arc over a 5 pt star, Auburrn Tool Co. under that in a line, Auburn New York.









As Auburn merged with Ohio Tools in 1893, I's say not too shabby for at least 121 years old.
Had some issues with the back "bolt", the nuts didn't want to come off, some needle file work, some wax, but 1st had to do a C.A. glue number by the base of the bolt, a spiral crack that hadn't been spotted expanded as I fought to free the nuts. And of couirse evaporust for the skate..









It fits the plough plane descriptions but never had a depth stop, makes it earlier ? dunno..now it needs a cutter, 3/8" or slightly less on the "shaft", thought I had one, but it's too wide..


----------



## terryR

Glen, that's a beautiful plane.
Nice work on the restore,
hope you find an iron…


----------



## donwilwol

> Glen, that s a beautiful plane.
> Nice work on the restore,
> hope you find an iron…
> 
> - terryR


Ditto!


----------



## racerglen

Thanks guys, took a rust hunt road swing Thursday, sheesh, 40 miles out, "closed for the season", 30 or so, well the signs says open @10, no show, the rest of the hunt went that way as well, moved, no forwarding address, moved to this loocation which I couldn't find..but will keep looking, I'd thought one of my moulding planes might make a temporary donor, nope, skew blades and rounders.


----------



## bandit571

On the Roseboom I have( needed a 1/4" wide one) I modified a 1/4" chisel to serve as an iron….


----------



## donwilwol

More picture and info here.


----------



## racerglen

@Bandit, yup, there's a ton of options and that's one I've been considering, kinda surprized yesterday, stopped by my fave local old time hardware store and they had one only Marples/Irwin 1/8" chisel on the wall..had no idea they actualy made such a thing thought that was just for the "upper end" stuff.
Resisted the temptation though..


----------



## Timbo

Oooh that's a purdy one Don. Off to read about this one.


----------



## NateX

Mathieson infill plane rehab, cleaned the iron and chip breaker in molasses and the plane body with Krud Kutter and Brasso. Came out well.


----------



## donwilwol

we're gonna need to see some shavings on that sweet Mathieson !!


----------



## Handtooler

Molasses? Trying to distill Rum>


----------



## woodbench

Some time ago I acquired this Stanley Bailey No 7 off ebay for 60.0 with the intent of doing a "user" restore. It seems to be a type 17 with the wrong unmarked lever cap. The pics show after Evaporust bath, and a fair amount of base work to remove pitting. Still a lot of pitting to address and Im not having much luck! I have already ordered HOCK blade and chip breaker and had intended on ordering DROZS replacement Cocobolo Tote and knob. Also the blade depth adjusting wheel and screw is missing.
Question #1 Am I putting too much effort and money (approx. 200.00) into a #7 that has no real value?
Question #2 How much pitting is acceptable on the sole? What is the best way to flatten?

Thanks!


----------



## JayT

> Question #1 Am I putting too much effort and money (approx. 200.00) into a #7 that has no real value?
> Question #2 How much pitting is acceptable on the sole? What is the best way to flatten?
> 
> - woodbench


Answer #1 Only you can decide. It all may not be necessary, but if you want that stuff on your plane, then no reason why not. Personally, I wouldn't put that much into a user, but others have put more. Check out Christopher Schwarz's engraved #5 jack plane for example.

Answer #2 The pitting isn't an issue, as long as you don't have any sharp edges that will leave a gouge in the wood. Flatten the sole, wax it to prevent rust and don't worry about it. I flatten with sandpaper on a granite slab-a table saw or jointer bed works well, too. Get it reasonably flat, making sure that the key areas are good. Those are the toe, heel and right in front of the mouth. If the sole is a bit concave, it's not an issue, while a convex sole will cause major problems.

Good luck and post some pics when you are done.


----------



## donwilwol

I agree with what JayT wrote, but not sure I agree with your "no real value" statement. It doesn't have any collector value, but with nice wood, a hock cutter and fine tuning, it seems it would have some real value. It'll also outlast you, your kids, and your kids kids.


----------



## bandit571

One block plane done, four to go









Leading the parade, an Excelsior 9-1/2 as a before photo. A might rusty.









Like that cap iron? iron has two Patent dates stamped into what is left of it









L. Bailey's Patent AUG 6 57 and AUG 31 58 EXC. Maybe pre-stanley??? Depth adjuster wheel is right hand thread.

Afraid to sharpen the iron any more. Nose piece works OK, though









But it looks like someone found a few nails along the way…

Next up? Stanley #9-1/4









Actually, it is already done, need to take a few after photos later.. and at least i could sharpen it up, too.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Woodbench- it's rarely a mistake buying good tools. Even if you decide you don't like it, or want to sell it for a premium plane, you'll get most of your money back. I sold a nice no8 on ebay this year with a hock iron for like $170.

That is what some guys run into though, if you prefer the modern irons(as I do), and you want a vintage in good shape….you start creeping toward the price of today's premium planes.

Just slap that iron in there and put it to work. See want you think.


----------



## bandit571

The "Before" shot of five block planes









With an early 9-1/2 leading the Parade. And, now the "After" 









Have decided this one is too well worn to be a user









Iron is way too short, and the tab to advance it is worn away. The others do make a shaving









Even a Buck Brothers one on white oak. Sans the gray paint on the sides. 









The Stanley 9-1/4 on the same white oak









The "other" 9-1/2









And the #220









Twas a very busy day…..


----------



## Timbo

Millers Falls No. 709 before not too bad, mostly staining and dirt/grime.


















After some cleaning and polishing.


----------



## donwilwol

That's extremely nice Tim.


----------



## JayT

Dang, Tim, a Buck Rogers smoother! Looks great.


----------



## racerglen

X2, nice find !


----------



## Mosquito

Don't suppose you'd be willing to part with the knob Tim? LOL I'm still on the hunt for one. Your restore looks fantastic!


----------



## Slyy

Tim that Buck Rogers plane is pretty cool looking!!


----------



## terryR

Gorgeous work, Tim! That's a stunning piece of history.

Mos, how about one turned from a solid piece of red acrylic?
Not original, but maybe cheaper?


----------



## Mosquito

That may be an option, I just have no idea how it actually mounts to the plane at this point, so I'm not sure what would be involved


----------



## JayT

Mos, the Buck Rogers knobs mount via a threaded hole in the cross bolt. The body itself isn't threaded in any way. I can't remember if yours came with that cross bolt or not.


----------



## Mosquito

It had no knob, or mountings of any sort. I can try to get a picture tonight. Maybe it's broken and missing a part that would allow me to mount it anyway, haven't really looked at it much.


----------



## Timbo

Hope this pic helps, the screw for the knob threads in to the rod ( which you are probably missing)


----------



## Mosquito

Thanks Tim! I think that helps a lot. I may have the rod with the perpendicular threaded hole, but I know I'm missing the knob and the threaded screw for sure.


----------



## Timbo

Sure thing Mos, I can take some measurements of the knob if you want.


----------



## Mosquito

That would be greatly appreciated


----------



## bandit571

A Type 11 came in the mail, with seven other planes. 









Had the wrong lever cap. A crack on the right side. Have since epoxied the crack to stabilize it, replaced the cap, and cleaned it up









The "good side"










The "gap" under the plane is from the countertop. Crack has been epoxied back. and the sides cleaned up. One more view









Rosewood is under that finish and paint spots. Tote had a few repaired cracks , too. Just a Free Jack Plane…


----------



## bandit571

Oh, and some white oak shavings? Still need to hone the edge a bit, but









Doesn't seem to do too badly









Just have to take it easy…


----------



## donwilwol

I have always said it weng-geee


----------



## lateralus819

I pronounce it wen-gay. Anyways…

Did ya make those Don??


----------



## donwilwol

> Did ya make those Don??
> 
> - lateralus819


Yes. I've made a few from wenge. I've know I've got a #7 in the shop with wenge but I can't find pictures.


----------



## Brit

+1 for wen-gay.

Nice work Don. Lovely grain.


----------



## summerfi

Remember this plane? I finally got around to cleaning it up.



















The plane has some issues and may even be a frankenplane, not sure. The normally brass parts are steel, indicating, I believe, manufacture during WWII. The lever cap looks newer to me, but maybe not. The front tote screw was and still is a frog screw since I don't have a correct replacement. The long tote screw was a carriage bolt, which I did replace with a proper screw, except for the brass instead of steel top. The top of the tote was broken off, so I made a matching rosewood repair. The deal killer with this plane, though, is this.










It looks like someone dropped it on the heel. I filled the cracks as best I could with epoxy. Maybe it will last awhile as a user, maybe not. If it falls apart, I'll turn it into parts. I can't complain about a free plane, but it's a shame it's broken.


----------



## Mosquito

So this is what I've got… looks like I've got an intact cross piece, and a snapped off knob bolt (I'm guessing this is why it has no knob)


----------



## Timbo

@Mos - The screw is 3" x 1/4" seems like a standard thread but you should be able to figure that out since you have the rod. Also the bottom of the cone shape has a slight relief cut in maybe to house the washer, not sure but thought I should mention.


----------



## planepassion

summerfi, the only reason I can figure for the orange knob was for a workman owner to differentiate his plane from others on the worksite. Too bad about the crack.


----------



## Mosquito

Thanks Tim!



> summerfi, the only reason I can figure for the orange knob was for a workman owner to differentiate his plane from others on the worksite.
> 
> - Brad


I would agree. I once had a #5-1/2 that was completely painted silver except the tote and knob. And when I say completely, I mean they painted the lever cap, iron, chip breaker, and sole while still assembled.


----------



## terryR

Oohh, exact measurments…

Must search for reddish acrylic, or is it reddish orange?

Nice work, Bob. Looks like a Type10 iron 1907-1909, needs 2 patent dates in the bed to match, and the frog adj. screw? Too bad about the cracked base. Like you said parts is parts, and Free is hard to beat!


----------



## donwilwol

I had one painted orange, but it was a plastic like coating on both the knob and tote. I read that some schools ordered them that way. I read it on the internet so it must be true. Actually, I have read it a couple of times, but have found nothing official to verify it.


----------



## summerfi

Maybe this is the kind of school that ordered the orange planes, Don.










I looked at my plane again, and I think it best fits type 17, but not all the parts do. Maybe it was made during wartime and used a few spare parts from earlier times. Or maybe someone just slapped it together from parts.


----------



## lateralus819

Don id be interested in some pics if ya got uhm. I cant make my mind up on wenge or not lol.


----------



## donwilwol

> Don id be interested in some pics if ya got uhm. I cant make my mind up on wenge or not lol.
> 
> - lateralus819


I'm pretty sure I've still got a #7 with wenge on it. I'll take a look tomorrow.

you can't go wrong in my opinion.


----------



## terryR

Lat, don't forget those wheels I made ya for The Moxon…they are wenge. Unfortunately, the wenge was QS, so the figure doesn't jump out at ya.

My hands are usually dirty in the shop, another reason I chose black wood. Nothing gay about this stuff…I'm pretty sure I'll call it when-gee!!! LOL!

I bet the University of Tennessee has orange totes on their planes, too!


----------



## donwilwol




----------



## terryR

Awesome, Don!
Night and day difference!


----------



## Brit

Incredible Don. You really did a number on that plane.


----------



## lateralus819

Yes terry i can't forget those wheels .

Its interesting too looking at the Wenge totes you made. They look almost grey in the pictures. Some i see is more brown where some is more black. interesting wood!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Mean lookin lineup….


----------



## jmartel

I see one that needs a cocobolo tote there, Red.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

That's a 604….it already has rosewood.


----------



## jmartel

Just sayin it doesn't match, is all.


----------



## donwilwol

> Just sayin it doesn t match, is all.
> 
> - jmartel


See whatcha started!!


----------



## racerglen

Try this on cocobolo, reading up on Millers Falls, 1902-03 there was a coal miners strike in Pennsylvania firewood went through the roof and M-F was selling their "shorts" of cocobolo for heating, the company president used it as well.


----------



## racerglen

Slowly he works, every so slowly.. posted this about three years ago, a W. Greenslade of Bristol England smoother I bought as a package with my 605 and a half C.









Just now getting to it, at some point it'd been slathered with some dark brown paint (?) which is being a pig to clear off without removing too much else, I know it was put on later because one time owner W.G Steer and the makers marks along with the proud announcement of exhibition medal wins at London,Paris,Dublin and Melbourne all have the stuff in their stamping.









The exhibition marks by David Russell's book "Antique Woodworking Tools" makes it post 1890.


----------



## Timbo

Ok Red, lets just say that pic is the before and the after pic is a close up of the middle plane…please. I must know what that one is!


----------



## donwilwol

> Ok Red, lets just say that pic is the before and the after pic is a close up of the middle plane…please. I must know what that one is!
> 
> - Tim Dahn


Tim, I believe that's an LN #164. I know, 'cause I often dream of one.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Yup. LN no 164. Just got it for Xmas. 









Tim, I just got done make cocobolo handles and knobs for my planes, and I was just diggin how they looked in the til together.


----------



## planepassion

Oooooh. Red, you have taken cocobolo to the next level. Now take a pic more zoomed in and without all the stuff in the background. That plane deserves the stage all to itself


----------



## terryR

Nice family shot, Red!

+1to the 164…










...one word of caution that Red and I have both noticed…in case you want to replace the knobs on a LN, be prepared for a sloppy application of CA on the knob screw, sometimes adhering it to the brass plate it rests on, missing in this photo for some reason? I got this one off OK, but scratched the 62's knob pretty badly.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Terry- on the replacement knob LN sent me, I literally just took a chisel and split the knob in half to get the screw (some cringe). But, as I suspected, there was CA glue all the way up the threads. No way was it gonna come out without snapping the screw again. Then I just cleaned up the threads with a deburring wheel.


----------



## terryR

Yeah, I've noticed CA all over my threads as well.
Don't see why they did that?
Seems to re-tighten fine without the glue…
I like Stanley's approach better. LOL.


----------



## wormil

Terry, is that a shop made screwdriver for hand planes? I like it.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> Yeah, I ve noticed CA all over my threads as well.
> Don t see why they did that?
> Seems to re-tighten fine without the glue…
> I like Stanley s approach better. LOL.
> 
> - terryR


I'm not even sure what Stanley did on theirs. Basically, from what I've gathered, one of the most common phone calls LN got was when the knob came loose from the little threaded brass plate. Simple solution, just reglue it with CA.

Add to that, apparently LN has another little Maine company make the knobs. When I called, they couldn't send me just the screw. They didn't have it. They buy the knobs complete. So they just sent me a whole new knob when I broke the screw.

My theory: LN suppliers solution to problems with their product: Amp up the CA glue!


----------



## DanKrager

Some old tools restored for a friend. Turns out mostly "worthless". No names, one "Made in U.S.A." in the jack's casting. I've never seen a plane so cheaply made…even the sole wasn't ground let alone the sides, which were rough as it came out of the mold. The frog was stamped metal, and the lever cap was rough as cast too. I took to time to at least grind the top of the cap smooth. It's not even usable because the blade adjuster won't travel far enough (on the left hand screw) to push the blade out of the sole. The blade does not look excessively worn either. The screws all came out though, and the tote and knob bolts were not brass capped. 








It was my first attempt at electrolytic rust removal and I must say I am impressed. About two hours in the bucket and upon removal the stuff washed off with very little persuasion leaving bare metal. 
The ruler spent some time in the weather…the paint was all cracked and peeling leaving it unreadable in places. The little plane is just four pieces, base, cap, blade and screw. The brace is the best of the bunch but there are no marks on it after cleaning. 
Now it is one happy clean family. Not the best pictures, but sometimes it is better to imagine a little…









DanK


----------



## CL810

Lucky friend Dan.


----------



## terryR

Rick, that's a LN screwdriver. I WISH I could shape metal like that! Hey, where's August lately?

Red, that's what I figured…CA to solve loose issues. I like how vintage Stanleys have the larger diameter brass screw holding the knob on the plane.


----------



## donwilwol

I was wondering about August today as well. I finally put a handle on the brass head he sent me.


----------



## MikeUT

I found a little time this last week to clean up this Bedrock 608. It had some rust and grime but cleaned up well. Here are a few pics. I posted a few more here.



























I had to spend quite a bit of time lapping the sides and bottom. I wanted it to have a little bit of shine but I didn't want to take all of the age away.


















After I cleaned it up and sharpened it I was able to make a few shavings. This is my first No. 8 sized jointer, its amazing how it just glides through the wood. After I took this shaving I noticed it was a little more thin in the middle, I had to square up the mouth a little bit and the problem was corrected. I didn't bother taking a photo of a shaving after though.


----------



## donwilwol

it looks great Mike. You're gonna love it!!


----------



## Buckethead

So keeping the mouth square is important?

I've not paid close attention to that with my planes. Will check it out. Thanks!


----------



## Slyy

> So keeping the mouth square is important?
> 
> I ve not paid close attention to that with my planes. Will check it out. Thanks!
> 
> - Buckethead


Same Bucket, not sure I've actually checked any of mine for square beyond just visual inspection.


----------



## b2rtch

"So keeping the mouth square is important? " 
Square with what? (the axis of the sole?)
Happy New Year to you all.


----------



## bandit571

From a trade-in









A Sargent/Fulton Jack plane that needed a bit of rehab.









Painted the lever cap, resharpened the iron, mated the chipbreaker to it. Frame was about 50-50 with the Japanning. Sanded and feather the frame smooth. Missing some of the screws, including a frog bolt. Once frame' new paint had dried, added some parts to the cleaned up wood base.









Yep, I used Brass screws, and replaced the frog bolts with brass ones. Wire wheel and a LIGHT touch on the rear handle. It had a large brass barrel end on it's bolt. All threads were given a drop of oil. Adjust the iron a bit, and a testdrive done









There is a patent date on the lateral lever…FEB ….01, can't quite make out the day date. There is an "S416" stamped in the bottom of the frog. No markings on the toe. Iron has a FULTON Cast Steel Warranted stamp.


----------



## pastahill

I finished the restoration on this MEMO plane. This plane is a swedish Stanley clone. I replaced the plastic handles with walnut ones cleaned everything, painted the body with dark green hamerite and sharpened the blade

Before




























After














































and now a few action shots with pine


















and beech


----------



## Slyy

Nice cleanup there Pasta. Sweet Sweedish plane there!


----------



## daddywoofdawg

How are the numbers figured on the Stanley?I.E #4 or #5 etc.is it the date it was made,#4 was made before the #5 or is it some measure measurement A #5 is bigger than a #4 a # 7 is even bigger,and can you measure something to figure out a non marked plane?


----------



## bandit571

Stanley sizes for bench planes:

#4 is just over 9" long

5 is 14" Long
#6 is about 18" 
#7 is about 22" 
#8 is 24" long.

The #3 is usually about 9" also, but is narrower, with a 1-3/4" wide iron, the #4 and #5 used 2" wide irons.


----------



## donwilwol

> How are the numbers figured on the Stanley?I.E #4 or #5 etc.is it the date it was made,#4 was made before the #5 or is it some measure measurement A #5 is bigger than a #4 a # 7 is even bigger,and can you measure something to figure out a non marked plane?
> 
> - daddywoofdawg


head over to supertool.com


----------



## ksSlim

Yo Pasta nice restore!


----------



## DocBailey

b2rtch wrote:
"So keeping the mouth square is important? " 
Square with what? (the axis of the sole?)
---------------------------------------
The more accurate way of stating this is that the front of the mouth opening (nearest the front knob) should be a straight line, AND be perpendicular to the sides of the sole.

If the front wall of the mouth is not a straight line, then the blade edge will be closer to the wall at some points than at others. This would be equivalent to having two different size mouth openings on a single cut.

Having the mouth's front wall other than perpendicular to the sidewall of the sole results in the same problem-different thickness shavings as the front wall of the mouth to cutting edge of blade clearance varies.


----------



## bandit571

A wood bodied plane is a bit easier to correct, though









Not only was this not square across the sole, the side where the iron came out had a curve to it..

A chisel or three, a rasp or two, a plane along the sole, and some sandpaper









I did all of this AFTER I had flattened the sole, and had it squared to the sides, checked with a decent straightedge









Sole had a hump right behind the mouth opening. And another right down the middle length-wise. Now all flat, mouth is squared away, iron sharpened back up, test drive done..









All that is left to do…is that ugly rear knob thingy. Just has to go. Have a pattern, now. Just need some 5/4 beech…..


----------



## john2005

Here's an 8 I picked up. T5 best I can tell. I got it cheap as it had a broken frog and a beach tote (not off of an 8). I pulled a rosewood tote from my other 8 as that plane is pretty rough and this one is halfway decent. The knob I just shellacked and waxed. Brought the color back out. And after a lot of searching, I found an early frog on the bay. Paid more than I wanted to, but I wasn't finding anything. The only difference I can see between the frogs is the new one is rt hand tread, the old was left. Oh well. Still need to hone the iron, but I'm waiting for a "sharpening day". Cuts pine ok now though…


----------



## Handtooler

What a difference some care make. It'll work for ya just fine.


----------



## donwilwol

John, if the old frog was a left handed thread, it was possibly a type 6. A type 5 would be a right handed thread.

So the old lateral was probably the L shaped folded type.

Nice save and it'll be good for another 100 years.

It just take a some practice using one plane with a left handed thread then another that's right handed.


----------



## john2005

So did they go back to rt hand thread? I noticed that's the way the rest of my planes (newer) turn. A little confused here. Maybe I should say dizzy?

Also, I asked this question over on the HPOYD thread, but what is everybody using on WWII black beech totes?


----------



## bandit571

Just black enamel, is my guess. Maybe Rustoleum Gloss Black?

Had one of them black painted handle sets on a #5-1/2, had being the operative word









Seems to look a bit better without the black paint….


----------



## terryR

John, I use the same Ford Black Semi-gloss that gets sprayed on the plane.










Keeps that factory look. I didn't like the black paint on wood at first, but respect it now as a part of Stanley's history.


----------



## john2005

That's what I was gonna go with but wanted to make sure there aren't any tricks. I think it looks better than the beech and there's too much on the project list to be bustin out cocos…


----------



## donwilwol

John, I use the same Ford Black Semi-gloss that gets sprayed on the plane as well.


----------



## racerglen

And tah dah..


















One W.Greenslade of Bristol smoother refurbed with it's cast steel Aaron Hidick iron








and a test drive in pine, to show something made somewhere after 1890 can still cut it ! Quite happy with the result, showed it a while back, forgot to show the steel sole this time around.









scraped body and wedge, a light scrape and sand on the tote and one coat of BLO to the whole thing, several to the nose.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice Glen.


----------



## Slyy

Glen that's a nice lookin plane!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

+1 to the kudo Glen. I like that one.


----------



## terryR

That's a gorgeous plane, Glen.
Nice work, and shavings.

How hard was it to restore the steel base? I've been wanting a ancient smoother with a tote like this one for a few months. I think the steel base might have scared me off?


----------



## racerglen

Thanks guys, Terry I haven't touched the base yet other than to clock the screws, using Red's OCD, 
there are a couple that stand a little proud, she'll be getting a quick sitdown on the stationary belt sander for that, otherwise it's flat, just couldn't wait ;-)


----------



## bandit571

A Fulton jack plane arrived via a trade









aka Sargent #3416. Needed some clean up, some hardware replaced. Sole needed a flattening done. Cleaned the tote of that crud finish. Almost presentable, now









Tote has some nice grain going on. Brass screws and bolts were used. Had to go up one size, as the old screws were stripping out in the wood. Even the frog BOLT was changed out, since the other was MIA. 









Seems to be a Type 2? Sole is now flat









Might not be too plain jane for a jack plane?


----------



## Handtooler

WOW! Wish I could find such in my area/


----------



## racerglen

looking good Bandit, looking good !


----------



## Slyy

Bandit, you've always got a good hankering on the transitionals. Wish I could get some I my area for under $80 but it seems most people think that age is directly equivalent to worth….


----------



## Minorhero

I have been restoring for a while now a Wallace Mortiser from very early in the 1900s. This machine is quite possibly 100+ years old and is thus the oldest machine in my shop by probably about 30-40 years. I purchased this machine 5 hours from my shop and hauled it back to my shop in the back of my subaru forester. (That was quite the trip)

Here is how the machine looked when it was "new" to me.










Here is what the table mechanism looked like:










Various dirty castings:










I took it all apart and shined everything up. Here are some cylindrical pieces that got shined up on the lathe.










Hardware shined up:










Took the motor apart and replaced bearings as well. Finally I painted everything and put it back together:




























Works great


----------



## Mosquito

Wow Minorhero, that looks great!


----------



## DanKrager

Now THAT's a RESTORE! It almost brings tears of happy to see a nearly lost machine come back to life and look so fine. Great job!
DanK

Edit: there may be hope for me yet…


----------



## Slyy

Minor, you're stuff is always fantastic always happy to see you in this thread. That being said:
THATS AMAZING!!!!! 
Absolutely un-be-leivable!!!!!


----------



## wormil

Yeah! Nice restoration job. That thing is a beast.


----------



## DocBailey

I think DanK's got it right-there is something that happens on a visceral level when I see such work.

Good stuff, Minor!


----------



## Brit

Fabulous restoration. Love the color. Looks badass now.


----------



## Tim457

Wow that's an amazing restore minorhero. Couple questions: how do you get the bolt threads so cleaned up without rounding them over and damaging them and how much total time would you guess you put into that restore?


----------



## john2005

Minorhero = major hero!


----------



## Buckethead

^^^ Truuuuuu

Admirable job on that mega-restoration!


----------



## ToddJB

Minor, great get and even greater resto. I want to be like you when I grow up. Truly stunning.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Dang Minor. There is Wallace mortiser just like that sitting in a friend garage a couple blocks from my house. It's the original machine from the Union Pacific shops in Omaha. He doesn't use it, but he won't sell it to me!!! I'll keep working on him. I want that darn machine.


----------



## terryR

Awesome restore, MH!
I have little interest in cheap modern power tools…
...that one is a sexy beast anyone would be proud to have in the shop!!!!!!!

Recycle? Reuse?
How about Restore! Rebuild!


----------



## daddywoofdawg

is it 115V or 220v?


----------



## DonBroussard

Minorhero-Congrats on a beautiful restoration. Your work is amazing!

+1 to a name change to Majorhero!

terryR-How bout Rescue, Restore, Return to Service?


----------



## ksSlim

R cube S


----------



## donwilwol

Fantastic.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Minor, I agree with Don B you need to change your name to Major!


----------



## Minorhero

Thank you all for the kind comments  Its pretty fun to restore machines like this. I had been looking for a mortiser for years before finding this one. I am quite pleased with how it turned out.

To answer some questions, its a 115 volt 1/2 hp motor. Given its size you would think its more, but they built them big back then.

Bolts and other pieces of hardware get cleaned up in a tumbler filled with green triangle media (I think they are plastic triangles?) I usually squirt some wd-40 or simple green into the chamber when starting the tumbler up. If any bits of paint or what not are still present after about 8 hours in the tumbler I will use a bench grinder that has a wire wheel on it to clean that off. The threads do not get bungled with this method so long as you have enough triangle media in your hopper. In this case I think I did the hardware in 2 batches. The tumbler I use is a cheapy off of amazon used for cleaning ammo casings. Its my second tumbler and the first one definitely got destroyed after about 8 restorations. So don't use a nice tumbler for this.

Threads are more likely to be mangled by 100+ years of use on the machine. When I come across those I just use an appropriate sized die and re-thread them. Takes only a few moments.

I would say not counting drying time for paint and what not, there is about 60 to 80 hours in a machine restoration like this. There is a lot of time spent shining up bits of metal, trying to get really really stuck pieces apart, removing old paint, getting things ready to spray paint, etc.


----------



## JayT

Killer resto, minor!


----------



## b2rtch

DocBailey, thank you for the excellent explantion


----------



## DocBailey

Glad to help, Bert


----------



## donwilwol

A type 11 # 5 1/2










I need to find a chip breaker.


----------



## Slyy

Don, excellent job! That tote is totes Purdy!!!!

I've got an old diamond Edge #7 equivalent and it's got the low knob. I've got to say that a really do prefer the low knob look over the newer taller versions.


----------



## terryR

+1 to the low knobs.
Excellent job, Don!

I think I'm starting to see why you grab the nastiest planes for restores. They look amazing before and after. And those that look nice, usually have black paint over the rust!


----------



## Brit

Well nobody could say that that one shouldn't be restored Don. ) Very nice!


----------



## MikeUT

I found a Stanley No 8 this weekend for $5. Now that may sound like the deal of the month but it wasn't exactly complete… It had a cutter from a no 4 and the lever cap was broken. aside from that it had about a pound of dirt and spider webs on top. Even so I was undaunted and pressed forward with a restore. I went through countless gallons of rust removal, miles of sandpaper, and a dozen wire brushes and it was all worth it.

Here is a before shot. VERY dirty, VERY incomplete.









After all the work I did I managed to make a sad old Stanley No 8 into this Bedrock No 608! I'm pleased with the results!


----------



## donwilwol

Well done Mike.


----------



## Buckethead

Well done indeed! You poured lots of love into that restoration. Looks like pitting was minimal too. Congrats!


----------



## Tim457

Nice work making that so nice. You saved that one for sure.


----------



## MikeUT

Sorry guys, I don't remember posting that last night. I have sleeping issues and I posted that after taking a sleeping pill. I think I was trying to be funny. The finished plane is a Bedrock 608 I posted about a few weeks ago. I did find that No 8 for $5 this weekend but I am missing several parts to be able to complete it. I need to find a cutter and lever cap and I'll have to redo the tote and knob.


----------



## j1212t

^^That's hilarious. Nice save either way of course.


----------



## Slyy

Lawl mike! Just don't drive anywhere and forget!


----------



## b2rtch

Mike,
That's a beast1
Beautiful work.


----------



## byerbyer

A quick question for the restoration pros here: I have a #7C I bought before Thanksgiving and so far all I've done is clean off the gunk and give it a good soak in evaporust. Pics are before cleanup.









I need to repair the tote, peen the lateral adjuster a tad, sharpen the iron, and lap the sole.









I currently have 4" x 25" quartz "end splash" left over from work. Being only 3" longer than the plane long enough to lap the sole?


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Byer, most of us are gonna ask if it needs lapped? Does it rock on a flat surface? Does it plane fine?


----------



## bandit571

A before of a 22" long plane that needed a wee bit of work









Wasn't enough to just sharpen an iron, or flatten the sole ( both needed it badly) but something else needed some work done









This is a tote? More like a stump. Well, I found some lumber alongside the roadway ( in a cart marked firewood)
Did a little trimming here and there, made a prototype, then the real McCoy….









That plane in back had a tote I could use as a pattern. So, new rear handle installed, iron is sharp, maybe some shavings?









Spent 50 cents on the lumber, and still have enought for two more handles….


----------



## byerbyer

Well, I haven't gotten that far I guess. The iron was extremely dull when I got it so it'll need refreshed to answer the question of planing. I guess my question should have been if it needs lapping is that long enough? My plan of attack was to "lap" it lightly just to check the flatness and make sure it's not a lemon before I spend to much time on it… if that makes sense.


----------



## JayT

Byer, you should be OK, it'll just mean taking short strokes. (I know, wrong crowd to use that turn of phrase) Keep in mind you want the plane assembled and tensioned as you work the sole. What I do is run it over some 220 for a little bit before de-rusting. That cleans off any loose corrosion on the sole and gives an idea of how flat it is at the moment. Then proceed with the rest of the restoration.

You've already done the Evaporust, but I would still reassemble and hit the sole lightly to see what all you are dealing with. Doesn't need to be flat the full length, as long as the key areas are OK-toe, heel, front of mouth. A slightly concave sole other than those areas is fine, just don't want convex. Definitely not a lemon from the pics you've posted.

Mind if I ask where you found it? Didn't know if you found some a good rust hunting spot out in your area or what.


----------



## byerbyer

JayT, I bought it on ebay. I didn't want to go that route, but as you know rust hunting in my area is scarce. I'll reassemble and check it out this evening on some light paper. Thanks for the tips guys.

I'm taking a trip to Lawrence early next month to see Ron Swanson (Nick Offerman) and I plan on hitting a couple antique shops on the way there. Kansas Hardwoods and maybe some Hays area antique shops on the way back.


----------



## ksSlim

byer, there's a great rust shop in Baldwin city. 2 more in Wichita.
Few more in the KC area.


----------



## terryR

Yep, I'm pretty sure DonW chooses rusbuckets to restore since they are more fulfilling and look better before and after! 

I thought this Type16 No.3 would clean up with soap and water…nope!










..new paint job coming as usual. The knob also broke when dis-assembled…but the wood is lovely rosey that should finish up nicely.

Starting to love these full-length irons!!!


----------



## donwilwol

> Yep, I m pretty sure DonW chooses rusbuckets to restore since they are more fulfilling and look better before and after!
> - terryR


Nope, I'm just cheap!


----------



## terryR

^says the man who just scored a SET of Union X's restored…
LOL.


----------



## donwilwol

> ^says the man who just scored a SET of Union X s restored…
> LOL.
> 
> - terryR


They were not restored Terry. One is on my bench right now that has about 98% of the original japanning gone. I was hoping to not have to repaint any, but at least one is to far gone. That's the X6. The X4, X5 and X5A are cleaned up and will not be restored any further. I'll see about the 8 when I get into it. I think it will not need repainting.


----------



## terryR

^My bad, dunno where my old brain got that from?
Should make a great family!


----------



## DocBailey

I've attached pics of an Ohio Tool Co. #024 smoother which was recently gifted to me.
There's no way to sufficiently tighten the screws to keep that frog from sliding around.

Should there be washers there? I'm not a big transitional fan, but I'd like to give this one a test drive.

Any input greatly appreciated - thanks in advance.


----------



## donwilwol

> I've attached pics of an Ohio Tool Co. #024 smoother which was recently gifted to me.
> There's no way to sufficiently tighten the screws to keep that frog from sliding around.
> 
> - DocBailey


Are they not wood screws? I know some are metal screws threaded into a steal plate but those look like a Stanley style. A washer wouldn't hurt but none of my Ohio's have washers. If its a wood screw, won't it just tighten down?


----------



## DocBailey

Hi Don

I fully understand your question-it's the same one I have..
Yes - they are wood screws, and no they're not stripped, but even after cranking on them, the frog seems to slide around. Just wondering if maybe I was missing a part or two.


----------



## terryR

Doc, that's a nice looking plane!
FWIW, all my Sargents have washers there.


----------



## DocBailey

Thanks Terry

I suppose it would lend some clamping power.


----------



## theoldfart

Doc, just looked at mine, a 3420, and it also has washers.


----------



## Tim457

Is the hole for the screws deep enough? If the screw front is flat it could be bottoming out. There isn't much room for washers where the frog is now unless they were about the same size as the screw head.


----------



## racerglen

I've only got two transitionals, a #32 Stanley and a #359 Ohio and both have washers.


----------



## donwilwol

The Sargent's I have have washers, but they are machine screws not wood screws. I always thought that the machine screws were a better design.

I'd throw a couple washers on and try it. A washer should help, but I don't think it originally had them.

That is in fine shape to. Many didn't fair that well.


----------



## DocBailey

Thanks all-

Yeah, it hardly looks used-apparently it sat on a shelf in my neighbors den for at least 50 years.
(Does anyone have dens anymore?)

I hate to modify something in this condition, but I was briefly considering threaded inserts and machine screws.


----------



## Deycart

You could try shorter screws maybe a bit wider or filling the hole up and re drilling it. Plus there is always the old standby of shoving some tooth picks in the holes and then screw the screws back in.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

Ever seen one of these?
22" Stanley Jointer Hand Plane Composite Rosewood Bottom
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Very-Rare-Antique-22-Stanley-Jointer-Hand-Plane-Composite-Rosewood-Bottom/111575883744?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D28791%26meid%3D668ee93609744ff5af18edc5f52603e9%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D221668958941&rt=nc


----------



## Deycart

It looks to be a one off very well craftsman made plane. And I don't mean Sears. If you look close you can see that there is a spot for a lateral adjustment and there is not even a hole drilled for it. There are no makers marks. The rosewood is a High beaded knob(Never made by any makers that I know of). Yoke has been filed typical of REALLY old Stanley's i'm talking Type ~1-2 era. The boss the tote sits on is very short compared to type 4~ large Stanley planes. Plus a lot of the hardware is off. Other than that I would say the blade and the lever cap probably came from a Stanley plane, but the lever cap has no foundry marks(Not supper up on the marks it is possible that some were made without them).


----------



## JayT

I'm thinking along the same lines as Deycart. Looks to me like someone took a Steer's Patent base and modified it to accept a Stanley frog. Could be because it was dropped, the original frog broke and this was the easiest fix or could be someone just didn't like the original adjustment, so altered it to suit them.

Patrick Leach has a page on the Steer's Patent planes and the jointer shown has very similar knob cofiguration.


----------



## Deycart

Mum… Possible, but the little protrusions for the lever cap to lever against are missing and if the finish is original there is no evidence they were ground off. Plus that frog would have been a MAJOR pain to ground out of the body. What we are really looking at is probably a Steers prototype.


----------



## Deycart

I say Steers and not Stanley, because all of the other details don't match production of similar years.


----------



## JayT

Yeah, the pics don't help much. I thought the last pic in the ebay listing was the most telling. It shows a place that possibly could have been where a nub for the lever cap ground out …... or it could be nothing. No way to really tell with the angle and quality of pics.










I also thought the frog base in that pic looked pretty rough, nothing like would have been done at a factory. Could be because it was shop done or because it was prototype work?

I guess one of us will have to buy it to find out more.


----------



## donwilwol

It's probably a CE Jennings. Their frogs were like a Stanley and had rosewood inserts. I'd need to research, but they may have some connection to Steers.

I was considering it. Not sure!!


----------



## JayT

^ Don't think I'd heard of CE Jennings. Googled it and that would make sense, right down to the frog.

http://www.steersplanes.com/steers-patent-number-305-jack-plane-c-e-jennings/


----------



## donwilwol

Well a few people wanted the Jennings worse then me!


----------



## Deycart

This was in a post elsewhere on the site.
http://www.stanleytools.com/xhtml/build-your-america/history.html
Interesting plane at 0:16
Bizarre, no blade and what looks to be a block plane mouth plate sticking up out of the mouth…
0:18
Low profile circular plane similar to 113.
Fast forward to 2:00 for some plane porn!


----------



## grfrazee

Had some shop time over the weekend and got to restore a couple of tools. First is an American Cutlery cleaver my brother picked up at a thrift store. It wasn't in bad shape, just needed a little sandpaper, BLO, and a sharpening.

Before:


















After:



























Next is a Charlestown Tool Works hatchet I bought at a flea market a couple years ago. A while back I had taken the head off and soaked it in vinegar to de-rust it. Then I sharpened it up and had to remake the handle. For the handle, I decided to go with some wonderful straight-grained osage orange that Dan Krager gave me. It took some effort to rive out the blank and shape it, but I'd have to say the end result was worth it. Now I'm not worried about the handle rotting away, at least.

Before:


















In-progress:




































After:


----------



## donwilwol

nice job. The new handle should make it fun to use.


----------



## DocBailey

Deycart

You're talking about this one right ?










it is indeed bizarre


----------



## Deycart

The only thing I can think is that it is some kind of chip deflector… That would get really old fast because of the way I like to hold the front knob. I like to place my palm on the top and wrap my fingers under the knob.that plate would just dig in my hand.


----------



## terryR

grfrazee, love that Osage handle made by hand!
Should last a few decades!


----------



## JayT

One question, grfrazee. What are you going to do when that hatchet head is completely used up and you still have a handle? 

That Osage handle ought to be very durable. Let us know how it does for shock attenuation.


----------



## Mosquito

> Deycart
> 
> You re talking about this one right ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is indeed bizarre
> 
> - DocBailey


If I had to guess, I'd guess it's an old scraper plane conversion like this one
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=32635&cat=1,310


----------



## Tim457

nice grfrazee, nice wide swell at the bottom too.

Does that Veritas scraping insert work well? It looks interesting, though they don't sell the 2" replacement blades anymore so perhaps it didn't sell that well and maybe didn't work that great.


----------



## grfrazee

@JayT - I used the hatchet a little bit for making some spoons. My hand/wrist ended up getting pretty tired, but that could have been due to sanding that hatchet beforehand as well. I'll have to try it out for a weekend camping to really know for sure how the vibration holds up.


----------



## DanKrager

Tools to be restored for friend now done:
























That jack wasn't worth the rattle can paint I put on it. No casting marks, no stamps anywhere. I wouldn't put my name on it either. Even the sides weren't ground, just rough casting. Stamped frog. I ground and "polished" the lever cap, but it too was rough from mold. Never have seen anything so poorly made. So it's a paper weight.
DanK


----------



## DanKrager

Man, I killed the thread? I'll post some more…
A badly rusted 46 fence came back pretty well. Second effort at electrolysis…I like it.
















DanK


----------



## ToddJB

Awesome Dan. She'll be a beaut.


----------



## Slyy

I dig it Dan!


----------



## MikeUT

I finished this one a while ago but I've been busy and haven't had time to post. I had to find a new frog as the original was broken off. I also had to repair the tote. I tried to match the grain pattern instead of the wood color. I exaggerated the tail a little to make a little more room for my hand. I took a few more photos and put them on my blog. http://lumberjocks.com/MikeUT/blog/47409


----------



## byerbyer

Getting closer to the after on this restore. Swapped the iron/chip breaker for a new Veritas A2 combo.

Any guess on the tote wood species? Beech maybe?
It's seems pretty soft…


----------



## lateralus819

Funny they paint that beautiful wood!


----------



## donwilwol

looks like beech to me


----------



## Timbo

Another Millers Falls "Buck Rogers", this one a No. 714


----------



## daddywoofdawg

So what is that silver rod that goes in the side on the front knob area?


----------



## donwilwol

Nice Job Tim. That cleaned up nice.

*daddywoofdawg* the bolt for the knob threads into the rod to hold the front knob on.


----------



## Slyy

Tim nice job!
Buck Rogers approves!


----------



## robmartin

Nice job Don! I'm feeling really inspired to start my own restoration project.


----------



## Buckethead

I gotta be honest. I've never seen one of these, although I had heard the term Buck Rogers in reference to planes.

I think I need one of these. They are actually quite beautiful.


----------



## JayT

ReExcellent job on the Buck, Tim!

Good luck, Bucket. You gotta either be very lucky or willing to spend-those planes just aten't very common. I've never seen a Buck Rogers plane on ebay go for less than $100 and there are rarely more than one or two available at any given time.


----------



## Mosquito

And finding parts for one requires buying another plane that's missing parts, as long as it's got the one you need. I spent almost 2 years trying to find a knob for my 709, and just recently Don made me a replica out of wood. I'm missing one side of the red plastic part on the lateral adjustment on mine, which I don't believe I'll ever find sans-plane. That and the iron is almost gone as well. Oh well, worth what I paid for it (Was given to me by a friend)


----------



## Slyy

Yeah the Buck Roges planes are a great retro design. Would love to have some in my collection.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

I do like the big adjustment knob on those.
So are they 50-60's vintage?


----------



## Timbo

Thanks all, they were fun to restore.

JayT, I found this one for about $80. I would agree about the parts, if you notice the missing rear handle screw on the before picture. I could not find the sex screw needed to replace but was able to find a work around that looks original.

*Also something to keep in mind*, the rear handle on both of mine have shrunk so the bottom screw hole is a challenge to ge lined up.

Mos, I did learn the knob is two a piece design.


----------



## Slyy

Mos, a quick google search didn't turn up anything exactly what i was looking for but I wonder if you can get delrin in a colored form (other than black or white) in rod or ball form and shape one for a replacement handle. I know that it machines very well, I wonder if it could somehow be dyed or colored to match the other Buck Rogers Parts?

Edit: by handle of course I mean knob.


----------



## Mosquito

explains the split ring in the middle Tim lol

Jake, I'm not sure if Delrin comes in anything other than black and white, but I'm sure red opaque acrylic could work too. I'm not really looking for perfect restoration copy, so I'm more than happy with what Don sent


----------



## DocBailey

a replacement could easily be turned from wood (by even a moderately skilled turner)-

it would be one piece obviously and include the incised line.

That object could easily be sealed so as to eliminate any wood grain, and painted to match.


----------



## TravisH

Stanley No 5. Type 17

I picked this up from a coworker for 10 bucks. Sat around for about a year in various states and figured the other day, after I worked up a bunch of stock, it would have been handy. So went out finished it up put a slight camber on the blade and grabbed some slightly cupped cherry and made a few passes. Always forget how nice a sharp blade is.


----------



## Bugnurd

My first smoothing plane. A type 13 number 4.

Before:









After:









I had to repair a chipped knob on this plane. I didn't have a piece of rosewood, but who cares. It'll be a constant reminder of my first attempt at a repair.

Knob before:









And after:


----------



## daddywoofdawg

That knob is kinda classy,so how do you polish the parts up like that?


----------



## theoldfart

Mark, nice restore on the 4. I have the same one, it's my go to smoother. BTW, is that a Roubo bench leg I see in the background?


----------



## CL810

A bench build in progress???


----------



## Slyy

Looked like some ruobo style legs in some background there CL810.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice work on the smoother Marc.


----------



## Bugnurd

Thanks!!

daddywoofdog - If you're referring to the last picture, it was just taken right after i applied some BLO (which is apparently unnecessary with tropical hardwoods, but since I did it on the tote, I figured I'd follow suit with the knob). If you're referring to the plane itself, all I did was scrub it with WD-40 and an abrasive pad. Cleans up nicely, but still looks antique.

theoldfart, CL810, Slyy - You are correct, there is a roubo bench in my future, made out of free lumber I poached from crates at the dumpster at work. You can read all about it so far here

As for the smoother, I still need to lap the sole and sharpen the blade, but soon there will will be fine ribbons of cellulose and lignin floating out of this precision instrument!

Cheers!


----------



## b2rtch

Tim, the other day I saw some " I could not find the *sex screw *needed to replace" bu thye were way to expensive for me and my wife is jealous.


----------



## Timbo

You had to go there Bert… I can see there will be questions about the work around now


----------



## terryR

Finally completed the restoration of this Stanley No.3, type16.

Before…










Appeared just dirty, but after a thorough scrubbing I decided on new paint. Knob also broke upon disassembly, so was repaired with epoxy…I've never lost a part before, but managed to misplace BOTH screws which attach the frog adjuster! 










beautiful rosewood, with a crappy shellac finish. Maybe the sharp iron will make up for my sloppiness?










...mmmmmm…cherry!

The Three Collection continues…types 11, 16, 17, and 19.


----------



## donwilwol

that's quit the three sum Terry!


----------



## terryR

guess it's only proper that I go after the Type5 next…since I'll have 5 of a kind!


----------



## Slyy

Looking great Terry!


----------



## ToddJB

Those are some prime number 3s, Terry.


----------



## Buckethead

Which one is your "go to"?


----------



## jmartel

> Those are some prime number 3s, Terry.
> 
> - ToddJB


Math joke. I like it.


----------



## terryR

Bucket, no 'go-to' in this group…just collectors. 
They are too small for my hands to hold comfortably…despite multiple attempts at re-learning how to.
Just gimme the 65 for small work…


----------



## b2rtch

I have a #3 and I enjoy using it but ti is very light and nimble.


----------



## b2rtch

Tim, I showed restrain, I could have ask for a picture and I did not .


----------



## Tim457

That limit is 1 Terry, yeah I touched that.

Todd with the math joke gets called out, but Don's menage a trois joke gets left alone? I don't even know you guys anymore.

Those are some nice threes though. There was a half decent one at the local antique mall, but I didn't have the time to type it. They wanted $45 for it and in hindsight that doesn't seem so bad.


----------



## terryR

^very good, Tim…although that was an easy one! 

Still shopping online for a complete set of sex screws…


----------



## Tim457

Boltdepot.com has them but I'm not sure they have the head or finish you want.


----------



## JayT

Stanley type 8 #7C rescued from an antique mall. If anyone is interested, it's for sale

Before










After


----------



## CL810

Including the fence ? ;-)


----------



## theoldfart

AH, the MF 88. Still hunting for one. i have the EC Stearns version, works great.

Damn fine looking 7 Jay. Whoever gets it would be most fortunate! Good, good restore.


----------



## JayT

Heaven forbid, CL810! What kind of heathen would put a Millers Falls fence on a Stanley plane? I'll have to hang on to the fence to keep that kind of cross contamination from happening. 

Thanks, OF. It's nice to restore planes that are complete and just need some TLC, so at least you know (or at least can guess) they are original.


----------



## john2005

I'm a heathen, I'm a heathen, pick me pick me! Oh yeah, and the rest of my collection is Millers Falls so…


----------



## Slyy

Well here is my before mentioned King Seeley/Craftsman 150 Drill Press. Wish I'd had a few more before pictures but, alas, had a broken camera phone so just the couple pictures. I still need to find a vintage switch box and better mount/cord attatchment for her but otherwise she's done. It was originally a machine metal blue and rust color. Used some metallic black enamel from oreilly's. Really like the color and texture, though much more impressive and deep than the pictures give credit for.
Before:

























The insides strewn about:
















Previous iPhones camera was well on its way out in the last two, the head unit looks painted but it's actually mostly rust brown and dried grease grey!

End product:


----------



## wormil

That looks good.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Atta boy Jake.


----------



## Buckethead

Impressive effort, Sly.


----------



## CL810

Way cool Jake!


----------



## chrisstef

Yea buddy! That looks killer Jake. Wanna do a 1940's era Rockwell next? If so, ive got a nice project for you.


----------



## Tim457

Very nice job, that'll be a great drill, and fun to use one you've restored.

Stef, I think it might be cheaper to ship Jake back and forth for your restore rather than the drill.


----------



## Slyy

Thanks all.

Tim, you might have a point!

Stef, have a friend who's got a 1930's Delta 220 drill press in pretty rough shape he uses in his shop, it's next on my list. When you're ready for the Rockwell just make sure to punch a few holes in the box before you send me back.


----------



## chrisstef

Ill send you in style brother. My wifes not a huge cook but theres plenty of chicken nuggets in the freezer. Mickey mouse shaped too. The spare bedrooms a little drafty and there's no cable in there but you can definitely steal my neighbors wifi signal.

Howd you manage to find out the model number of the DP? I cant remember if mine had anything on its badges.


----------



## terryR

very impressive, Jake!
The black paint looks sharp with the golden Craftsman label!
How many months did something like that take?


----------



## Slyy

Terry - was a Christmas gift from the FIL, took about a month, actual time (excluding paint) probably 3 good weekend days. Probably to date the most complicated thing I've dissmantled and put back (apparently correctly) so thought it went pretty smoothly.

Stef - free wifi and Mickey Nuggets, I'm putting the label on my box right now, wife sorta looked at me crazy when I asked if she could tape it up when I get inside.
Stef you asking about the Delta DP? My buds looks a lot like this one except just in dirty poor condition:








For his it has 220 DP stamped onto the motor mounting plate and looking through VintageMacinery.org photo index his has a round floor base as well and seems to correlate very well with other posted 30's era 220's. Seems on later models they had a built in pulley cover. His clearly never came with one but a previous owner poorly fabricated one for this particular example.
His also appear to have an original motor and its size/shape of label as fits with other similar models.


----------



## ToddJB

Those first gen 220s are beautiful. I have a later model (40s) benchtop (same head and table as the floor model). It's my go to DP.


----------



## Buckethead

Note to hair metal enthusiasts. No hair tosses at this drill press.


----------



## chrisstef

I might have botched up the era of mine. Maybe its the 70's. Ill pull the badge number off it tonight. Its not nearly as hoss lookin as that 220.


----------



## Slyy

Todd can't find the pic but saw a pretty black with red trim 220 somewhere. My buddy never realized the wire button/switch was original to the press either, almost looks MacGuyvered but guess that's how they came. It'll be a fun project though imagine it's gonna be a summer deal, doubt I'd have the time to devout till May.


----------



## terryR

3days to restore a vintage drill press?
My goodness, that's quick!

minorhero mentioned they were straightforward…got me interested now!


----------



## chrisstef

Same here Terry. Heres my old girl.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

Anyone remember the delta or Rockwell drill press with the wheel and a handle coming out the side of the wheel not the two or four "arms" to make the chuck go up/down? I Jr. high wood shop we had one.Haven't seen one since.


----------



## Slyy

Stef that ones just hankerin' for some love! It'd look fuggin' sweet all in Glamour Shots and a nice perm!
Looks like yours is 60's era and is missing it's bad a$$ switch in the front as well!!
Another 15-017


----------



## daddywoofdawg

Anyone remember the delta or Rockwell drill press with the wheel and a hand coming out the side of the wheel not the two or four "arms" to make the chuck go up/down? I Jr. high wood shop we had one.Haven't seen one since.


----------



## chrisstef

I agree Jake, she needs some good lovin. It came out of a house that we were tearing down that suffered terrible water damage. It was rusted solid when I salvaged it but, damn it, she ran. Ill have to hunt down a switch for it and maybe one of these days tear it down and fix her up.


----------



## ToddJB

Nice Stef, yours is a 1962


----------



## Slyy

Well can't wait to see when it's all said and done Stef.


----------



## chrisstef

Thanks for the leg work bud.

Its low on the list jake but one day, some day.


----------



## terryR

What I don't get is…

how the heck do you guys talk your wife into letting you buy some old rusty drill that you may be able to completely replace every part on, and spend so many hours polishing ( away from Her ), and it may never work anyhow, and it takes up space in the home or shop, and it stinks, and it's gonna cost MORE money for switches and paint, and…


----------



## jmartel

> What I don t get is…
> 
> how the heck do you guys talk your wife into letting you buy some old rusty drill that you may be able to completely replace every part on, and spend so many hours polishing ( away from Her ), and it may never work anyhow, and it takes up space in the home or shop, and it stinks, and it s gonna cost MORE money for switches and paint, and…
> 
> - terryR


You don't. They refuse a lot less when it's already there and being worked on. Of course, I haven't randomly had a large stationary tool show up, it's been mostly smaller things. Most recently, my #8 Jointer plane. I may have a Disston 12 coming next. We'll see.


----------



## ToddJB

We are very budgeted in my household. I have been allotted Entertainment budget every month. What I do with that entertainment budget is solely my decision. Most of my money goes towards buying or fixing old tools. You are totally right that machine could cost more than a new one, but the restoration process is part of the fun. Plus there is minimal initial sticker shock when I am buying a rust bucket, and the costs are incremental. I also try not to buy anything that I'm not confident I will be able to get running. And I try to only buy things that are rock bottom price. Additionally, I have a designated space that is mine. If I fill that space up with rusted crap and can't move around in that space, that is my problem, so I try no to have too many nonfunctional machines at one time. Sometimes with greater success than others.


----------



## Slyy

Yeah, kinda as JMart said:it's more about the ask permission/beg forgiveness thing. Helps when "conspirators" bring you stuff


----------



## CFrye

Here you go Jake…(or anyone interested)


----------



## jmartel

> Yeah, kinda as JMart said:it s more about the ask permission/beg forgiveness thing. Helps when "conspirators" bring you stuff
> 
> - Slyy


Plus, in my case, my wife is an Engineer as well. She understands that good tools make things easier, so she doesn't seem to mind when I buy tools. She was a little surprised at the cost of my LV smoother. I told her how much it cost after I put a gift card on it. She recently found out that the cost was $100 more than that…


----------



## Slyy

I saw that Candy, thanks for the heads up. Actually the bud who has the 220 DP has an almost complete post drill in his shop that hes mentioned many times off loading to me. would actually like to have one to play around with every now and then.

JMart. id say too (at least or my wife) it helps that she knows that i really do feel passionate about finding and restoring the old things.


----------



## CFrye

And you're just letting him hold on to it for you until you're out of school?


----------



## Slyy

Haha, kinda more-or-less. He's had it for a while and decided he doesn't really have time to mess with putting back into working order.


----------



## terryR

Uh-oh!

I've been storing a gallon of EvapoRust outside the shop in a tupperware container…just noticed it's all gone this morning! No green puddles on the concrete, so our goats must've drank it! ? ! ?

gonna have a difficult time explaining glow in the dark livestock when the wife gets home! 

maybe they will rub rust spots OFF their gates now?

kids are a PIA to raise! (goats, I mean)


----------



## summerfi

Better give those goats some iron pills, I'm sure they have a deficiency now.


----------



## Tim457

Haha, pesky goats. I'm no chemist, but from reading the SDS for evapo-rust it looks like reasonably benign stuff. Ingestion just says drink plenty of water. My guess is the chelation doesn't work when ingested since it doesn't get in the bloodstream. That is just a guess based on the SDS, which should have more serious warnings if it were more toxic. Also looking up how they do actual chelation for things like lead poisoning, at least one of the medicines needs to be injected into the muscles rather than ingested, so that's further evidence your goats should be ok.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

I think evapo-rust is just citric acid and water.
anyone know anything about Powermatic 6600 Table Saw? have a chance to get one at a really good price.It's not the 66.


----------



## MikeUT

Am I the only one that uses Vinegar to remove rust? I've never used evapo-rust, not because it is toxic but because vinegar has worked well for me and its around $5 or so per gallon. It loses it's potency after soaking four or five planes but that happens to evapo-rust too right?


----------



## JayT

> It loses it s potency after soaking four or five planes but that happens to evapo-rust too right?
> 
> - MikeUT


You get a lot more uses out of Evapo-rust. I recently had to discard a gallon that finally got to the point it quit working-I'd been using it for well over a year and probably a couple dozen projects. Overall cost probably ends up not too much different per use.


----------



## terryR

Whew! I had no idea ER was non-toxic…such a funky color just scares me. Like blue Gatorade…not in my mouth!

I can't handle the smell of vinegar. Just some stuff is like that for me. Diesel fuel, no problem. Ivory soap…yuck! 

Bob, guess I'm lucky my wife just set out a protein and vitamin block for them to lick…bet it's full of iron!


----------



## upchuck

MikeUT-
I also use vinegar. I also use it for the price per gallon. I think that I'll try powdered citric at some point because the strength can be varied. I usually soak the rusty items on the kitchen counter overnight. I am lucky that the girlfriend tolerates me and my habits. She's familiar with vinegar. I'm not sure she'd feel the same way about any other liquid. I think that she'd be highly suspicious of any liquid that came with a Safety Data Sheet regardless of how benign the SDS said the product was. Her kitchen-Her rules.
chuck


----------



## donwilwol

Order some citric acid. Non toxic, cheap, and works well. The goat will must be drinking orange juice.


----------



## Tim457

Terry I wouldn't say evapo rust is non toxic, just not super poisonous. Citric acid can be nasty if concentrated, but it works well when diluted and smells a whole lot better than vinegar. Overall I like citric acid the best unless I have something I want to be even more careful with then I use the evaporust. Upchuck it should help that you buy citric acid in the canning isle and it's meant to go in canned food.

Jay I don't know how you get evaporust to last that long. If I use it a few times and leave it around very long it ends up turning into this black gooey sludge in the bottom and then doesn't work. I don't know if it's because of the cold basement I keep it in or I don't degrease stuff well enough before I put it in or what.


----------



## JayT

Keys to making it last are to clean off as much loose rust and dirt as you can before putting anything in the Evaporust and then filter it off after use. I let the sludge settle out and then pour the thinner stuff off the top through an automotive funnel that has very fine filter back into the jug. You lose a little bit each time, but the remainder lasts much, much longer.

Once this batch is used up, I think I'm going to switch to citric acid due to cost and the fact you can store powder much easier than a liquid.


----------



## Tim457

I cleaned off as much rust as I could but I didn't have an easy system to filter it each time. I can see that would make a difference.


----------



## donwilwol

> I cleaned off as much rust as I could but I didn t have an easy system to filter it each time. I can see that would make a difference.
> 
> - Tim


I just used a rag in a funnel to filter it.


----------



## Slyy

Yeah i do like JayT, automotive funnel and filter back into the bottle. Usually let as much of the chelated material sink to the bottoms and just pour. The container says it's good until it's dark and no longer easy to see through, in my experience it can still do a good job well after that, just occasionally takes longer. If it is working slow I just put it front of the shop heater, chemistry likes heat!


----------



## upchuck

The link below compares vinegar, citric acid, and molasses as rust removal juice.

http://toolmakingart.com/2012/07/04/rust-removal/#more-1779


----------



## terryR

Chuck, Thanks for that link. Makes me want to try Phosphoric Acid for the dark coloration. (not on planes)

Just looked at all our canning supplies; everything with citric acid in it also contains dextrose. Should make restores come out sweet! 

Will look for Citric Acid locally, too, no Pakistani groceries around here.


----------



## CL810

Sweet… Funny!


----------



## Tim457

Interesting link upchuck. I especially find the part about keeping the zinc in solution and using oxo-blue to blue the parkerized finish that the phosphoric and zinc mix leaves. I don't totally get it, but that grey coating evapo-rust and naval jelly leave are a leftover from the phosphoric acid. I guess that link is saying that if you add zinc it's a parkerized finish.

Here's a working link to the Bob Smalser article that's linked in the comments.
http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/bSmalser/rustproofing/rustproofing1.asp
Interesting for the bluing parkerization and for the restoration of a slick sized gouge.

I didn't realize the Indian/Pakistani grocery stores would carry citric acid, I have just been buying the Ball brand canning stuff. And thanks on the rag tip I'll have to try that.


----------



## jglen490

This is a great topic! Don's blog gave me some inspiration to go after a renovation project.

I recently acquired a Keen Kutter KK5 14" fore plane. It's complete and in pretty good shape. The tote has a clean break close to where it connects to the body, but it's a clean break, so I'll attempt to epoxy it back together. The iron has some minor chips, so sharpening should be an option.

Here's a slide show of the before. The metal is soaking in Evaporust at the moment, so I'm looking forward to the results there.


----------



## Buckethead

> This is a great topic! Don s blog gave me some inspiration to go after a renovation.
> 
> - John G.


This thread is beyond epic. It is essential.


----------



## Slyy

^
Seconded, the motion has been moved to the floor.


----------



## Benvolio

this is an old Ward and Payne vice. I don't know much about them.

This is my first restoration project - I've included a bit more description and more pictures in a blog post http://lumberjocks.com/Benvolio/blog/49241 feel free to check it out and give any opinions or insights

thanks for reading


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Boy's Tool Chest Plane (Unmarked)

Before:









After:


----------



## donwilwol

> Boy s Tool Chest Plane (Unmarked)
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Smitty, its a Sargent #2204


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Wow, the Sargent Master knows all! I had no idea, thanks Don.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Mine looks like a cheap clone of the 2204 based on pics of the original I'm finding. Is that possible?


----------



## donwilwol

> Mine looks like a cheap clone of the 2204 based on pics of the original I m finding. Is that possible?
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Its possible. It may be a house brand made by Sargent. Maybe it had a sticker at one time.


----------



## woodcox

"You may want to just head down to the cafe cuz breakfast is going to be a little late…" 








or "So I took this drill apart…" 








Jaw springs are missing along with all the drill bits from the handle magazine. If I can't source the springs I might have to wind them myself. Gear looks ok with no cracks seen yet. 









Little reshaping to do on the cap. 








It took about about thirty minutes to coax this little dude out of his comfy corroded hole. 








This ferrule will need to be replaced along with the little wood chefs cap side handle which has cracked. 








As far as I got today before deep degreasing begins. Auto shop down the road has ER for $22 gal. I've never drank the stuff myself. It's bit magazine has aprox 80% of the nickel still there. Will ER remove the plating? What does ER do to brass? Something better for brass? I want the plating gone but don't want to wear down the lettering under it with too much abrasion if I can avoid it. Advice?








I haven't been following along so I hope it's ok to post up like this. Going for a WK quality resto if I can measure up. His site led me to this and I have two more GP's in the mail. Ha! Handle wood has some serious oil and people butter saturation going on and has me the most concerned


----------



## Tim457

Nice job WC. I wrote a blog about finding the right screws for my MF hand drill, ended up finding them on Amazon for $5 shipped, but I measured just a bit wrong. Ended up finding the lost spring a while later, so I've got extra .148" 1/2" long springs I can send you if they are the right size for you. Fastenal also has a decent selection. Also I'd be curious about how you'd wind your own, love to learn about that stuff. What is that dude you coaxed out of there?

For your questions, ER is pretty selective about rust, it won't get the nickel plating for you. The only way I can think of would be a chemical that dissolves nickel or basically do a nickel electroplating in reverse. ER also won't do anything for brass, you want your standard brass cleaners for that.


----------



## woodcox

Thanks for the info on everything Tim! I'll have to check wire specs again. I've read a little about wire winding for them here,http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/2009/807/. A lot of talk about it in the comments as well,which led the OP to do another specific entry about it later on. Stanley used sell a spring and jaw kit for their push drills that were a good fit but discontinued them. Many just use the right guitar strings wound around a drill bit, trial and error I gather with spacing being particular. Winding under tension with a lathe sounded most feasible.

Dude is the plunger to keep the magazine cap closed. Magazine is numbered 0-8 for the bits,0 being his hole. Sellers want like 70 bucks for a complete set of them!


----------



## Tim457

That's a pretty cool drill magazine. Haven't seen one of those on a drill before.

Thanks for that link too. It's very detailed especially in the comments and while winding your own springs may not be easy, it does seem possible with some practice.


----------



## Timbo

Another Millers Falls No. 14.

I have to admit, I did not think this was going to clean up very well.


----------



## Slyy

WC - that's gonna be a fun restore! I've had zero luck finding egg eaters (other than $70 late crafstman kind) around my parts, been thinking about turning to the bay. Update pics will be fun to see soon! For ERA I think it only attacks Fe2O3 and magnesium. Most other corrosion resistant metals have too strong a bind for the chelating agent to do anything to.

Tim nice MF! I only find them sparingly around here but I really like the look and design of them. That's a nice looking example.


----------



## theoldfart

Jake, maybe I can help with the egg "eater" drought. PM me with your needs.


----------



## woodcox

This stuff seems to work pretty well too. It took more of the enamel and rust ER left behind. Don't let it cook more than a couple of hours though, it's kind of a sticky job removing it. ER did just ok, that pin was prolly the most corroded part and it came out still a little crusty after 12 or so hours. Maybe a longer soak next time. 









Good luck with a beater Jake. There are a ton of em on ebay because they were in just about every home owner's tool box back in the day. I was drawn to the GPs simply because of the wheel gear, gnarly looking. MF and North Bros seem to be the ish too. Look for steel or iron pre WWII, after that most are pot metal frames which could be ok too. I kept this page open in the back ground when browsing,http://oldtoolheaven.com/index.html. Great reference for quick identification straight from mfg. pics and descriptions. Downer I've found is the chucks have little easily lost or worn parts that may render it inoperable until sourced. May need more than one to put one into service. Careful though they are cheap and can accumulate quickly I have seven more GPs coming and four pending just to be on the safe side. Too early to tell but daddy may have issues. If Kev doesn't hook you up and I can survive hiding the boxes I may have a couple to choose from too


----------



## woodcox

I just saw a your grandfather's breast drill, very nice work Jake! I wish I had heirlooms like that to use, a few tie hacks and carpenters in my lineage but uncles currently have all their tools. As it should be though.

I'm now sure you know what your looking for but just info I found pertinent.


----------



## Okiemike

I agree on the before & after shots. I enjoy looking at them. Too bad I didn't take any shots of my stanley # 4's.
I did on the tenon saws. But can't get pic here or on the gallery,
See my projects. I need help putting pictures here . ( computer skills very poor).
Awesome job every body thanks for the posts.


Take care of your tools and they will take care of you *** unknown


----------



## Slyy

Grabbed this little guy a week ago for $6 at a new to me antique store.
Looks like a stanley 9 1/2 though only has two identification castings, one that looks like "Pat. 8-5-97" (though hard to be sure on first 2 numbers) and an "S" is cast into the adjustable mouth portion.
Some before:

























Some of the after:

























This was without touching the iron at all, so the dog still hunts even without my help. Once the iron is touched up it'll be pretty good little plane!
Anyone have ideas on who and when it's from?


----------



## donwilwol

Jake, it could be a Stanley, it looks like a type 11,12 or13, that's 1900 give or take a year or 2.


----------



## Timbo

Looks great Jake.

Any markings on the iron?


----------



## woodcox

Painting tonight, ugh. 



























Nice save Jake!


----------



## Slyy

Not one that showed up after cleaning Tim. I do have at least one other known Stanley block plane with no markings on the iron, pedigree might not be fully revealed but it's a very functional plane, my first with this particular style of adjusting mechanism. Pretty impressed with how easy it is to adjust in in very small increments.

Edit:
WC - taping is my secret love affair. I hate doing it so much I secretly really love it. Satisfies the OCD in me like nothing. Sure does look great when you peel off to and see that great paint line!


----------



## woodcox

Speaking of which, this is engine enamel. Can says it can be handled in an hour. Should I remove tape then or wait some more?


----------



## Airframer

Let it cure over night before touching. Nothing worse than getting a slight finger print on new paint just to peel some tape. It should peel clean in the morning.


----------



## lateralus819

It is usually easier to remove tape as soon as it can be. Sometimes it can get really stuck and take forever to remove. But dont want to do it so soon as it peels the paint.

Enamel usually dries quite fast. Usually to the touch in 20 minutes.


----------



## Airframer

unjammy


----------



## CFrye

Nice job, Jake! How badly was the moveable mouth to free up?


----------



## Slyy

Candy - it was locked up. Just hit it with some PB Blaster and let that hang out overnight. It was sitting pretty open and proud to the front when I got it so after letting it sit, grabbed my big whacker I got from Mos in the last mallet swap and put a nice soft peice of pine in between and gave it a few good smacks. Then I could easily push it out though the adjustment screw hole with a drift. I'll be honest though: hitting cast always makes me a bit nervous.

WC - I'm with Lat on the tape. I'll usually pull it off after about 3 hours when using the enamel paints. Though I will typically set small pieces in front of my shop heater for that time as well to promote some quicker dry times. Haven't experienced but I worry waiting too long might result in incomplete tape removal or unintentional removal of some finish.


----------



## DanKrager

Slyy, I can relate to questions about tape removal. Painter's tapes have gotten much better than some of the old masking tapes. You can actually buy tape based on how long you intend to leave it in place, and I think it is color coded. I'm also impressed by the much cleaner lines left by the tape edge. 
If the paint is thick and covers the edge of the tape (and it usually does, else why tape?) there is always a risk of the paint bond wrecking the clean edge. If there is any doubt, I take a razor knife and lightly score the paint following the edge of the tape by feel as much as possible. Really clean edges are possible without doubt.

If you should leave the tape on metal objects too long (weeks) then score for sure and you can clean up the tape residue with a small amount of paint thinner on a rag, and a light scraper. Or very fine steel wool staying off the new paint. Low heat (hair dryer or heat lamp) on the tape before removal softens the adhesive enough to ease consistent removal.

My most reliable success has been to pull the tape immediately after the last coat while it is still wet. 
DanK


----------



## JayT

A little late, but I pull tape while the paint is still a bit wet, too-it leaves a clean line that way. If you wait until the paint is dry, you run the risk of lifting some of what you wanted to save.


----------



## DLK

*Question*

I have a type 2 Stanley router plane with only one blade (see below) it works great, but its impossible to find more blades for it. So I thought I'd buy the set of 5 imperial blades that Lee Valley sells. They claim these will fit a Stanley 71. Well it must be that they only fit the latter model Stanley 71s, because they don't fit mine. The square post of the blades are 0.8mm too wide in both axis. So here is my question. Should I return them or should I try to file them down to fit? If so please add some advice on how to do the filing. I'm thinking to only file the back two edges with a bastard file, perhaps using some sort of depth stop to prevent over filing.


----------



## Tim457

I don't know how they harden them, but if the whole thing is hardened tool steel a file isn't going to do much. A grinder is better for tool steel in general. I would probably grind a little then check with a caliper to see how close I was getting and repeat. I don't have a 71 though, is it depending on a snug fit on the sides, or is it the 90 degree angle on the front that holds the blade straight? If the latter, you don't have to be quite as careful with the grinding.


----------



## DLK

There is a 90 degree angle in the front and also in the back that holds the blade straight. The sides don't even touch the blade post. It was surprising to me that the post is not exactly square. Neither mine nor the Lee-Valley blade posts are square. Only a small 0.5 mm difference though. Disappointed I cannot use a file. I do have a grinding wheel but I am no expert. I only use to refurbish the bevel on old planes and chisels. Wouldn't a wheel hollow grind the posts. Would that be an issue? I suppose to use a file I would first heat up the tool with a torch to soften the metal.


----------



## Tim457

I'm not saying you can't file it, but it's possible. Yeah a grinder would hollow grind it if you just pressed the center on, but if you hold it square and take passes back and forth and check it as you go it's not too hard to get used to grinding. You'll probably do fine if you try it, but if you don't want to mess with your LV blades then practice on some scrap like a old hex key or whatever.


----------



## DLK

I asked Lee Valley about the steel in their router plane blades and they contacted Veritas. The response is:

We have heard from Veritas and they have stated the following:
The shaft is AISI C12L14 which is a high carbon steel. It is not hardened and should grind or file with no problems.

In fact they tried it, my Lee Valley service contacts writes about his Veritas contact:

And since I sent this one [last e-mail], my contact tried it with a file and it was very easy so this sound very doable. Here was his comments

I also have one of these shafts at my desk and I tried a file on it and it files pretty easy.

So I guess this is good news, in that I can easily diminish the blades with a file to make them fit.

I might also add that Lee Valley said they would take them back or exchange them for "narrower blades" that they might find looking through their stock, because of +/- tolerances in manufacture. I think this is outstanding service. I am very impressed with Lee Valley.


----------



## terryR

That's awesome to hear, DonK.
Thanks for the footwork on this!
I've always wondered, too!

It makes sense that only the cutting edge has been heat treated…the shafts need to be softer to allow for screws to grab hold. FWIW, you could always heat hardened steel until orange, let it air cool, and it will be annealed, or softened. Just keep the heat away from the cutting edge.

+1 for LeeValley's customer service!


----------



## daddywoofdawg

I'd send all but one back,keep one to try filing on just so you know;It could also be +/- on your tool too.


----------



## Mosquito

I've always had good experiences with Lee Valley customer support. I bought a set of the "parallel tip" screw drivers, and one of them broke (trying to loosen a screw on a handplane knob). I asked if it was possible to buy individual screw drivers (I only saw them for sale in the set). I explained what happened, and they asked which size, and sent me a replacement. I asked if they wanted me to send the broken one back and they said not to worry about it.

I plan to make an awl out of it, maybe.


----------



## byerbyer

Disston D-8 Rip Saw. I started the rehab a month or so ago and finally got around to putting the new handle back on.


----------



## woodcox

Goodell-Pratt no. 54


----------



## theoldfart

Wicked good restore WC.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

I'd lose that one little piece that holds everything else together.


----------



## ToddJB

Wow, looks great, WC


----------



## planepassion

The catalog ties it all together. Cool stuff!


----------



## DonBroussard

Great job on the restore, woodcut! Did you like the way the painted edges came out when you removed the painter's tape? I'll say the paint edges look good from here.


----------



## woodcox

Thanks fellas, these are fun to do and there really isn't that much to them. I have two or three more started already. Cox's Beaters Co. Too bad the plating gets lost, they must have been really nice when new.

Crazy, they sold for about three to nine dollars and they list a simple scratch awl for $2.50.

Don, I pulled the tape after an hour or so. I'll probably wait a little longer next time but yeah, it did work well. I did three coats in an hour. I may have to try a second round after the first has fully cured just for a goof. Prolly have to razor the line at that point though.


----------



## ksSlim

Super nice WC.
Painter friend told me, no less than 2 hrs. between coats.
He further said "best to wait 24 hrs. between coats"


----------



## Slyy

Dubbya that is a most excellent resto man! Saw your SOTS a post…. OUCH!


----------



## woodcox

Yeah, definitely a downer to see it come out of the box in pieces. A lot of history gone because of carelessness. V 









A least I got my money back. I want to tear it down and see if it can be retrofitted with common gear. That has a ratchet feature incorporated into the handle. Though a no. 5 gear is very similar on the outside.


----------



## Slyy

Could still be braised perhaps? Have a couple breast drills that were braised by somone in a previous life, and unfortunately an early No11 breast drill that needs the same thanks to my carelessness.


----------



## Slyy

For perusal a Disston No. 4 backsaw I picked up a while back. The blade is pitted quite a bit though not deeply, alas no etch was present after the long history of rust. She got a nice sharpening for our resident Master Sawyer Summerfi.

Before









And the after


----------



## DanKrager

WC, those are superlative restores. Looks like they're ready to "go to meetin' ".

I've heard of people who do custom casting. Since you have the original parts, the mold would be easy. I've also heard it's not very expensive that way. I wish I could give you a lead, but I just can't remember where I read about that. Maybe a metal working forum someplace. You might be able to get your money back if you did several for sale.

DanK


----------



## Okiemike

I was surfing the web for help with my back saws and found this web site.
TIAS.com Great Expectations Antiques.
From the home page, on the column on the left click on ( tools) then pick woodworking.
I found lots of woodworking tools. I enjoyed looking at it hope you will!
It was informative for me.

Mike.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

there might proud of there tools!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

^Ya, antique tool dealer/flipper guys have different priorities than woodworker.


----------



## woodcox




----------



## Slyy

Nice little machinists square Dubbya!


----------



## woodcox

G P awl and driver, the wood on the awl is really dry and beat up. I thought about trying to rehandle it but I'm not sure I could do it without damaging the ferrule. I may give it a try if it degrades anymore. I would think the ferrule is just a friction fit, pounded together when in production. I think the top of the driver was supposed to be domed originally. It too may get new wood if the traces of the paint "finish" in the pores gets to bothering me. Maybe after regular oil application and use it may fade some. For these I just card scraped and light sanded the gunk away with out taking too much. Both are much better than before and I am happy to have them at the ready. Painted finish, what were they thinking! Although, it kept the wood safe for the last century or so to find me








Edit: Is the difference between an awl and a scribe the striking cap?idk


----------



## wormil

You could try soaking the handle in linseed oil. It's not a cure-all but I've had luck rejuvenating old dried out handles. You need bare wood, preferably end grain so it will pull oil all the way through.


----------



## DanKrager

+1 to Rick. And I've found that slightly warming the LO and warming the wood slightly more, then letting them cool together will pull quite a bit more into the pores farther in. Cooling creates a small vacuum in the pores and the warm oil flows better in capillary action. 
DanK


----------



## ToddJB

That's good info guys. Is there any difference in absorbsion if you oil it after the rough sanding instead of the finish sanding?


----------



## woodcox

Thanks fellas, I'll try that next time.

Rick- lemme know if you ever do another g-p garb run-very cool!


----------



## daddywoofdawg

rough sanding opens the pores more


----------



## wormil

> Rick- lemme know if you ever do another g-p garb run-very cool!
> - woodcox


Will do, and thanks!


----------



## paulm12

First project post for me, just beginning the journey. Thought I would show my dad's old plane before, and then after following all of the advice on this forum. I don;t even remember him having or using this plane, it may have been handed down to him. I think maybe is type 16? Anyways, I just cleaned up the wood a bit for now, may go back at sometime and polish. My focus was on the metal, alot of time for me learning the lapping and sharpening techniques.




























The pile next to the plane is what's left of a scrap 2×4. Some shavings down to 0.0015 (I was amazed). Thanks again to all on this forum for your advice.


----------



## Slyy

Good work Paul, looks like it's ready for a new life!


----------



## woodcox

GP no. 4


















Upon stripping, I found two hairline cracks on the drive gear. Handle had lost all of its plating so just polished it and didn't really care for the brass look. Took a little while to find a replacement gear and handle with the plating intact. 



































I've managed to piece together enough chuck spring sets so far. I have a little tooling coming to start winding my own springs on the lathe. I still need to read up on suitable wire.


----------



## DocBailey

very nice work, WC!


----------



## Brit

An enviable restoration. Great job!


----------



## DonBroussard

Nice restore, woodcox! Does your drill have original bits in the handle?


----------



## ToddJB

Woah. Great job. A lot of care looks to have gone into that guy.


----------



## woodcox

Don, it was missing two of them. I could probably put two or three complete sets together. Smallest ones are usually gone or broken. Once honed a little, those little spoon bits work quite well.

Thanks guys I have been starting the seldom seen restos in my collection first. I've been making replacement handles for the needy ones lately. I'm new to turning so copying is a nice challenge. I should have another ready to show soon.


----------



## woodcox

GP no. 259









This one has a unique selectable ratchet handle, two gear ratios and 3/8" chuck. I replaced the handle on this one with mahogany because of a bad crack. I don't think a repair would have been very durable for long. I decided just to refurb this one since the frame enamel is still in pretty good shape, main gear enamel should be ok until it is fully restored. Only polishing and complete tune up done for the gear box. A little careful planning to hit a blind existing hole in the threaded post for the handle lock pin. 


























For size comparison. 








I actually have two of these 259's. Sadly one did not survive shipping because of some muppet's complete lack of respect. He threw it along with another beater and a handful of brace bits in a box with no packing and called it good. I opened it to find the main gear in pieces. I got my money back and still have it for parts though. I have figured out that a gear from a more common model could be machined some to fit. I've only seen two of these and I have them both. Would be cool to someday get that one repaired. I believe the ratchet handle makes these somewhat valuable.


----------



## Brit

Your GP 259 is very similar to the 2 speed ratcheting MF 1980 I have.


----------



## terryR

Just love seeing the restored drills and braces…need to clean up my GP…also a 259, I think.










...and add a brace to the shop for more torque.

My Mom asked me to recommend a good cordless driver, so I gave her my 8" Yankee 2101. She was amazed at the power and precision…and no batteries to keep up with!


----------



## Slyy

Those GP's are pretty awesome gents. I bet that adjustable handle is a pretty slick deal. Gadget factor alone, setting aside actual usability, seems great!


----------



## woodcox

Andy, those both look to be in great condition.

Terry, your 5 1/2B looks nice as well.


----------



## racerglen

130 done


----------



## terryR

Looks great, Glen!

Woodcox, Thanks for the ID on my drill!
What was the key?


----------



## Buckethead

Cool plane, Glen! Fantastic restoration, on a plane I never knew existed. That bull nose(ish) feature is pretty awesome. Gets into tight spaces almost like a chisel plane.


----------



## DocBailey

Nice Glen

I've had about 5 or 6 of these pass through my hands over the years and all were cracked through the sidewall where the pin passes through it.
That is just a weakness of this design, so don't overtighten that lever cap.










My two cents, for what it's worth.


----------



## racerglen

Didn't realize that was an issue Doc, guess I lucked out ! It has a Canadian sweet heart blade, and no issues with the sides. 
And thanks Bucket and Terry, it was a relativley (sp) easy cleanup, most of the japanning was still there on the body, so just a freshen, L/V's kilingspoor rust eraser treatment on the sides,sole was fine, evaporust the blade (no pitting, just surface stuff) but the cap needed a full strip back on the top and repaint.


----------



## summerfi

This plane has no markings except a logo stamped on the iron that reads Richards & Conover Hdw. Co. Kansas City. My suspicion was that it was made by Union, and Don W thought so too. After further reading, I'm pretty sure that is correct. It seems to be a good quality plane.

*Before*









*After*


----------



## Tim457

Nice save Bob, is that a family plane or a rust hunt find?


----------



## summerfi

It's one that I found for a bargain price on ebay, Tim.


----------



## ksSlim

I've one identical to yours. Agree that the lateral lever seems Union.


----------



## lateralus819

Twisted is Union. Two piece is stanley, MF has the half folded lateral. I love union planes. Quite stout buggars.


----------



## donwilwol

> Twisted is Union. Two piece is stanley, MF has the half folded lateral. I love union planes. Quite stout buggars.
> 
> - lateralus819


ahh, but twist can also be Victor, Ohio tools, Siegley, or early Sargent. Ohio tools also made one with the disk, as did Victory (which is Stanley) , Siegley did after Stanley bought them, but Sargent didn't.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

> ahh, but twist can also be Victor, Ohio tools, Siegley, or early Sargent. Ohio tools also made one with the disk, as did Victory (which is Stanley) , Siegley did after Stanley bought them, but Sargent didn t.
> 
> - Don W


Exactly. Lat is right on with the rule of thumb, but not everyone stayed in their own swimlane.


----------



## donwilwol

I forgot the b plane. That had a twisted late as well.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

and who did the fold in half or upside down U?


----------



## donwilwol

> and who did the fold in half or upside down U?
> 
> - daddywoofdawg


Sargent and later Stanley's.
https://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2014/03/01/quickly-identify-your-hand-plane/


----------



## Buckethead

Guis; here's a thing: http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/ka14000/#.VQgI_Ce9KSM










I've got some Klingspor sanding blocks, but these look like an optimal format for planes. You could really get some sheen without advancing those carpels. (Not a paid ad, and I've never used them. I got an email showing these. I am quite pleased with the performance of the abrasive pads from them.)


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks for the clarification Don!


----------



## Bundoman

I have so few pictures stored on my IPad but can participate with my number 48. I have its brethren in a Union as well but no shots of that one. I could participe so much better if I would take the time to get some pics. Nice stuff all!


----------



## Valete

Before:









After


----------



## JayT

Sweet bandsaw restoration, Valete!


----------



## Tim457

Nicely done Valete. What is it, cut capacity, etc?


----------



## wormil

Valete, that looks like a saw off the show room floor. What brand/model is that?


----------



## Buckethead

Gorgeous restore!


----------



## woodcox

I turned a new handle for it. 








The paint by request…








Her first real shop tool.


----------



## Buckethead

Way to accommodate, Woodcox! I like the color.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

Valete:why did you take the covers off?


----------



## CFrye

That is great, Woodcox!


----------



## Tim457

That's a great idea with the screw as a pretend drill bit. I've got two customers that will really like your idea.


----------



## Ocelot

What a sweet thing! ... and the drill is nice too!

- teary-eyed-Dad


----------



## Ocelot

I like the empty sunglasses. My kids do that too.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

WC- your little girl is "totes adorbs" ....as my little girl would say.


----------



## woodcox

GP no.100 stubby. 



























New knobbery in cherry from the yard. I poured some tb2 in the hole before I drove it home. Glad I did. A little crack started when those wings were going past. When I set the ferrule, the crack closed with squeeze out. I wonder how they avoided this problem in manufacturing. 1/4" shank hole and 15/32" o.d. tenon, not a lot of give there with the size of the shank wings. 
Edit: crazy little knots on the inside of the old handle. Who says tools don't have souls


----------



## CL810

Way cool WC!


----------



## CFrye

Very nice, Woodcox. Did you save the old handle(does anyone else save old handles like this)? How did you effect repair on the tip of the driver and normalize(?)the color?


----------



## Ocelot

OK, glad I'm going after a screwdriver, which is very nice - wish I had that one, but I'd hate to come after that morticer awhile back or the bandsaw above.

Here's another little Bailey #4 that arrived on Monday from ebay ($25.23 with shipping).

It's not really finiished, since I haven't worked the iron and chipbreaker yet and maybe I'm going to do a little more work on the sole, but I couldn't resist making my first post on this thread with an incomplete refurb after I finished the wood on this one.


----------



## terryR

Great work on that driver, WC!


----------



## TheFridge

Stanley 6c, 5, c557mp (4?), 110, 220, 81? Scraper plane and Dunlap #4? And a couple disstons










Fixed up the ones that were worth it. Haven't really messed with the block planes aside from cleaning them as I have a 60 1/2

edit: I pretty much got all this from a family member. I've found it hard to find anything worth buying in flea markets or craigslist.


----------



## wormil

That's a lot of de-rusting going on.


----------



## Jmcnail

Very inspiring!!


----------



## Tim457

Those came out great Fridge.


----------



## Ocelot

Nice set! Was that one haul?

-Paul


----------



## TheFridge

Thank you and Yes it was. My sister in laws father passed away and left a 2 huge barn junk and few goodies.

I gave the #6c back to her so she could give it to my nephew when he gets older. Then I found it thrown in a drawer in the barn, so i repossessed it.










Tote needs repairing but the iron and chip breaker are too far gone.

Some of the stuff I haven't got around to finishing yet because I don't need then at this time.










I was in her barn to take a 20" Rodgers b-20 bandsaw apart that I bought from her awhile back. Here's some pieces.










Then I got this jointer from a guy that can build anything out of wood. He's pretty awesome. He didn't need it and I mentioned I was looking for a jointer for my workbench top and voila. He said he had one I could have.

It's an Alex R Mathieson and sons. The iron itself took about 6 hours to flatten. It wasn't fun. Chip breaker soaking in citric acid. The body needs a cleaning but the iron was 3/4s of the work and it's done.










Needless to say I had the day off. It was awesome.

Edit: and not one second was spent cleaning my shop. Awesome again.


----------



## Ocelot

I'm surprised to hear you say "the iron and chipbreaker" (on the 6C) are "too far gone". That seems like thowing down a challenge for somebody to restore them!

Also, my restoration experience is slight, and I have only used Evapo-Rust. How does the citric acid work in comparison to Evapo-Rust?

-Paul


----------



## DocBailey

On the theory that we all like looking at photos of old tools, I've decided to post a few.
These are the first few I've cleaned up from a batch I posted over here (post #555).

I disassemble tools as completely as I can, so that I can de-rust, oil, etc., but I'm of the "less-is-more" school of tool restoration, so I'm not trying to make them look like new.

First up, a BSV Co. No. 1X spoke pointer:














































An E C Stearns model 4 Hollow Auger:














































A Millers Falls No. 108 Angular Bit Stock:














































More to come as they're made presentable.


----------



## theoldfart

Doc, have you given the pointer/hollow auger a test run?


----------



## DocBailey

I have not-that will have to wait till next fall when I try my hand at chair building


----------



## theoldfart

Windsor possibly?


----------



## Tim457

Nice stuff there Doc, and yes we all like looking at cool old stuff. That Angular bit stock is particularly interesting and in great shape.


----------



## DocBailey

A few more conservatively-rehabbed tools from my most recent rust harvest.
An early, single-pinion Millers Falls No 2, with the little friction roller:























































Also in that pile of tools was a handle-less No 12-I just happened to have a spare rosewood handle:


----------



## bandit571

$3 Garage Sale item today:









Looking like it had stayed in the barn









Stopped and picked up some "elbow grease" and set to work









Non showy side, still lots of patina









Handle might look a little better









26" 8ppi. Warranted Superior with a Keystone on the medallion. One bolt seems to be the wrong size. 
Might at a later date get a file and sharpen this up. Plate is straight as can be, no kinks.


----------



## planepassion

Doc, that's one nice egg beater. Does it have the star logo?


----------



## DocBailey

*Brad*

No crank imprint at all on this type-that starts a few years later, when (I think) they switched from Rosewood to Cocobolo handles.


----------



## planepassion

Well I'll be. I did not know that Doc.


----------



## cjwillie

I've had this beat up old #4 1/2 laying around waiting for parts for a couple years. The top was broken off of the frog and someone braised it back together. It's Sweetheart so I wanted to restore it. I've been accumulating a pile of parts planes lately and finally got one with the correct frog. After a day of scrubbing and cleaning, it didn't turn out too bad!


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent job Willie.


----------



## cjwillie

Thanks Don. I'm really enjoying cleaning up these old planes, almost more than using them! I have a 5 1/2 in about the same starting condition waiting it's turn. I hope it turns out this nice. I'll post some pics.


----------



## Ocelot

That's a nice looking 4 1/2!

I'd like to get one of those some day.

I know what you mean about being more fun to restore them than use them, not that it isn't fun to use them.

-Paul


----------



## TheFridge

Got this #3 from a flea market in Arkansas. 35$. Maybe a tad much but it's complete and isn't pitted to hell and back.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

This one's got a little story to it. I wrote a blog a while back when I inherited some tools from my Great Uncle.

Later, I showed these tools to my Uncle. He was my dad's youngest brother and the only one still living from all his siblings. Sad, considering his in his late 50's. Anyway, I could tell my uncle was a little envious that I got all these tools from our ancestors. So, this type 11ish no 5 was restored and will be shipped off to my uncle. I gots lots of planes and I know he will appreciate it.

Before: 









After: 

































I had to repair the tote, but I still don't think the plane saw a lot of use. The V-logo iron is nearly full length and the japanning looks new. Maybe he'll use it, maybe he'll put it on a shelf….but I know he will smile when he sees it.


----------



## DanKrager

Goodonya, BRK. Well done.

DanK


----------



## ToddJB

Good job, Red. I've got a tranny in my queue that will be given back to the giver after I get to it. So I understand the sentiment well.


----------



## summerfi

Very nice thing you're doing there Red. Very nice indeed.


----------



## Ocelot

That's real nice-looking, knothead!

I'm sure your Uncle will be pleased. If I knew anybody that wanted handplanes, I would probably give some of mine away too - since I can't seem to stop buying them.

With the tall knob, it looks more like a type 12. Mine T12ish No 5 also needs a tote repair.

-Paul


----------



## racerglen

the Swedish 78 as found, "Anchor" brand

























The fence was broken so a previous owner drilled and added an oak runner,
a chunk broken from the tail of the sole

Here's where she sits today


















ground out and filed the sole break , filed off the rough part on the fence and used walnut for a new fence. It was missing the nicker, fortunately had one in stock. Now need to do something about the wing nut subbing for a thumb screw holding the fence, it's quarter twenty thread maybe I'll use a knurled nut instead, that wing nut just dosen't "fit" as in look right (even discounting it's too long ;-)


----------



## Tim457

Nice job on that, Glen. A Stanley 78 has a relatively simple thumbscrew on the fence. I'm not in front of mine right now, but I don't even think it has a shoulder on it like the one on the depth stop does. Should be easy enough to find a 1/4-20 thumbscrew.


----------



## racerglen

No, no shoulder on on my Stanley, Tim, but it's a wee fellow, so far the fastner places have come up dry, that's where the wing nut thing came from, I found an knurled top/allen key piece in my L/V jig kit that could work. Getting close to store opening time for the other outlet, Fastenall, will see what they've got. The Stanley is a much smaller thread and top than the other stuff and not 1/4-20 like the Anchor plane.


----------



## Tim457

Here's the thumbscrew I got when I replaced my missing vice dog because I couldn't find any knurled nuts locally.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-1-4-in-20-tpi-x-2-in-Stainless-Steel-Thumb-Screw-829658/204986381

I'd send you the extra one, but it's not very good quality for what you want it for and shipping to CA would not be worth it for that quality.

Hopefully fastenal will have you covered.


----------



## racerglen

Our fastenall seems to have gone contractor only ? But I'll check Home Depot Tim, Thanks !
(p.s., I'm in Canada, not California ;-)


----------



## bandit571

With Fastenall you can tell them you are buying for a shop…say I might need a bolt or a braket. I'll tell them that I work for the Dungeon Shop…..Someday, I might even get a "preferred Buyer" account there…..


----------



## racerglen

Good one Bandit, and as far as big orange, the 1/4 20 thumbscrews are available in USA only.
Oh guess I'll just keep bopping in at places that are on my route for morning coffee whatever until I've hit them all.
(The H/Depot kid, er guy, was very nice, a quick computer check after I said been told they had them, and bingo, there was Tim's picture of a thumbscrew, not a thumbtack )


----------



## Tim457

Is Canadia not abbreviated CA too?  Anyway I knew it was Canada otherwise the shipping would be no big deal. I can still send it if you want, let me know. Maybe some filing or grinding on the flats could make it look nicer.


----------



## john2005

I had put these on the Saw thread so some of you may have already seen them.














































I did swap plates with another D8 thumbhole I have. The handle on that one wasn't as nice so I put the nice parts together.




























This is the only before pic I could find of the crosscut D-8. Its the one on the top.


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent work on the saws John.


----------



## racerglen

Thanks Tim, CDA, I'm still looking localy but if it runs out I may have to take you up on the great offer !


----------



## Tim457

Very nice job on that handle, John. What did you use to clean up and finish it?

Sure, let me know, Glen.


----------



## john2005

Thanks guys.

Cleaned up with murphys oil, sanded the old finish off and just spray poly. That handle was amazing when I was cleaning it. Heres some of the cleanup pics


----------



## woodcox

^beautimus! Apple?


----------



## racerglen

Thanks Tim but my quest is over ! Hit every big box, some auto parts stores etc and finally al big box sent me to their affiliate, same brand name but actually the last old line hardware store in the area.
And after some head scratching among the brothers who run it, the oldest's wife said right here on the end of the aisle..
1/4-20 thumbscrews in a blister pack, 5 3/4 inchers for 3 dollars. Got one soaking in vinagre right now after a zap on the wire wheel, got to get rid of the super shine !

Lookin' good John !


----------



## Tim457

I thought they had to be available somewhere in Canada, but man that was a lot of work for you to get one. I try to remind myself that if I make more than one special trip for something it's cheaper just to pay shipping. But I still make multiple trips to save a couple bucks and it sounds like you were stopping on your way to things. At least you got it, that's the important part, right?


----------



## racerglen

That's right and spares to boot, and actually met a bunch of very helpful staff in every location.
And for my next feat, I'm wrapping up the rebuild/refurb of 45 #2, one that was my first but got robbed for the second one, and nevermind ;-)
(sufice to say I have a separate box of 45 parts after the swap meet score :-0 )


----------



## Mosquito

lol I once bought a "Box of misc combo plane parts", just for 1 screw (for an early #46 fence, which are quite hard to find). Ended up with an almost complete #45 (missing cam rest, and short rods), and a complete #46 out of it…


----------



## racerglen

A few hours in the vinagre








and a slight trim to adjust the screw length..









And done


----------



## nemeth100

I've been lurking on LJ for some time but this is my first post. This is a Bed Rock 603 that I did in 2013. These might look familar to some that frequent SMC as they were posted over there when I first finished this project. Klean-Strip, citric acid bath, wire brush, duplicolor engine enamel. The "as found" tote was not rosewood, a donor No. 4 helped solve that problem. I have yet to sharpen the blade or make any shavings as I am currently without a bench or workshop.


----------



## planepassion

That's quite the restoration nemeth. Your barn fresh piece looked like something you dredged out of the local river.


----------



## ToddJB

Stunning job, Nemeth. And exceptional photography too.


----------



## DocBailey

A tastefully executed restoration!


----------



## DonBroussard

Great first post, nemeth! Looks like you sandblasted the parts and repainted. Can you confirm? The finished product looks awesome.


----------



## wormil

Finally getting around to painting my GP lathe. I went back and forth on what to use for the reddish orange and ended up choosing "paprika" Rustoleum. Here's the tailstock next to a trace of the original color inside the pulley.


----------



## ToddJB

That's going to look great, Rick. Is it a flat pulley lathe?


----------



## wormil

Yep, flat pulley. There is more info in my blog from a couple years ago. It's going to look a lot better than before.


----------



## ToddJB

Wow, just checked out your blog. Treadmill motor… genius. Did you just gut the electronic panel and controls and keep it wired up exactly as it was in the treadmill, or was there modification that needed to happen? And is 1HP pretty standard for a TM? You've got my wheels spinning.


----------



## donwilwol

Sweet restores


----------



## Tim457

Nice job nemeth. Without a workbench and shop I bet that gets a lot of fondling. Could you make enough space for a milkman's bench?

Nice Rick, that looks like a great match.


----------



## wormil

> Wow, just checked out your blog. Treadmill motor… genius. Did you just gut the electronic panel and controls and keep it wired up exactly as it was in the treadmill, or was there modification that needed to happen? And is 1HP pretty standard for a TM? You ve got my wheels spinning.
> 
> - ToddJB


Mostly the same. That particular motor was in a fairly old treadmill so the circuitry was simple. There was an extra board that I removed and bypassed but really it was pretty simple. Unfortunately I didn't document the process very well but if I can do it, anyone can.

Treadmill motors are sometimes rated for continuous and treadmill duty. The latter is probably the same thing as "peak HP". The motor in my blog is rated at 1hp but I found the same motor also rated at 2hp, so I believe it to be a true 1hp. I have another motor that is rated at 1.5/2.5 HP which is probably more common in newer treadmills.


----------



## wormil

I opened a can of worms. It wasn't my intention to strip the GP lathe down to bare metal as I don't really have a proper place for doing full restoration work. But when I started "roughing" up the paint, it just fell off. The original 80 year old paint has disintegrated and the newer paint has nothing to stick to so it's all going to have to come off. Which means I should go buy a can of primer and do it right. It also means I should probably strip the parts I've already painted, primer and paint as well.


----------



## donwilwol

In the end, you'll be glad you did Rick!


----------



## nemeth100

Thanks all for the compliments.

Don B.- I did not sandblast on this particular plane. Citric acid bath, Citri-Strip (didn't work fully), Klean-strip, various wire brushes, acetone wipe down, duplicolor engine enamel. I have nothing against sand/soda blasting if done correctly, and I would have jumped on the chance but my tailed power tools are crated in a friends small garage without power as we recently downsized our home.

Tim- I will likely build a bench this summer I'm considering just doing a short roubo and using it as a piece of furniture in the family room…

Downsizing is what brought me into this hand tool world. Now, instead of rebuilding a large power shop I am half inclined to limit what power tools I do have when I set back up. A nice neander set up can go a long way…. I have been buying my time restoring planes and learning a bit about saws. I have completed four Bed Rock (603,605,606c, and 608), with two more mid process (604c and 607c), and 2 just started (605, and 605 1/2). Time to move on to saws, routers, shoulder planes, shaves, a brace or two… I enjoy restoring and it doesn't take too much dedicated space.


----------



## wormil

> In the end, you ll be glad you did Rick!
> - Don W


Hopefully the effort pays off when I sell it. I need to clean out the shop and get rid of things I'm not using.

In other news, I was playing around with my vinyl cutter and making toolbox stickers. These are on my filing cabinet because they are too large for my toolbox.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

I'm looking for a 1/2 or 3/8" plane iron and a low angle block plane if you or anyone has them to sell.


----------



## wormil

Stripped the GP, this is 2 coats of Rustoleum sem-gloss. Amazing how many casting defects were hidden by paint. It is still a lot smoother than either my Craftsman or Delta lathes. Not sure exactly what the original gloss is supposed to be, I know it wasn't flat nor glossy, semi-gloss was the best I could do.










Big improvement on the weird green/red paint job the last owner put on it.










Repainting the Delta I posted about here: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/90130
This is Rustoleum Dark Machine Gray which according to the internet was a spot on match or not even close to the original paint. Well, it's a lighter shade of the same color on mine. It looks different when you compare them side by side but when you actually spray it blends really well.


----------



## woodcox

GP No.69 hacksaw









Greasy








New hickory knobbery

















I really like the mass in this saw. Took some getting used to because of it's gentile arrangement. It is adjustable to accept 8"-12" blades. 
I found this unmarked saw punch, albeit identical to a GP. It punches a 3/16" hole in saw blades if I want to use an odd length. I have yet to see vintage 9" or 11" blades, so now I can at least adapt any type or length if need be. 








My new Saturday night special pocket pry bar in cherry from the yard.


----------



## racerglen

Very nice finds, very nice saves/creating !


----------



## terryR

nice hacksaw, Woodcox!
I like the Federal ferrule, too.


----------



## DocBailey

deleted


----------



## bandit571

Where is Toppenton CONN, USA at? Seems there was a Hardware Store selling these









$1 at a "Junk-in-the-Box" store…..Cleaned up nicely….


----------



## MNclone

Came across a 60 1/2 block plane at a garage sale last summer for a couple bucks. It was in great shape except for the massive cracks on both sides of the mouth. So I picked up some crusty 60 1/2 parts on eBay to make a complete plane.





Cleaned up, sharpened up, and making fine shavings.


----------



## Buckethead

Fantastic!


----------



## chrisstef

Bandito - youre probably reading Torrington CT. I believe it was union manufacturing. Its about 30 minutes northeast from me.


----------



## woodcut

W.Tyzack No. 120 before: slightly abused, minor rust, very straight blade, but that buh-tugly handle has got to go….


















Of course one of the three nuts spins freely. Not knowing any better, I clean the brass and epoxy a 'handle' to free it. Then, heat from a candle flame softens the epoxy enough to remove it from the saw nut…









Handle stripped and sanded, ready to be reshaped:









Brass back and saw nuts cleaned with a dremel charged with green Mibro compound, blade sanded up to 600 -not too perfect (this is a 'practice' refurb, a user, not a showpiece) 
Photos don't show it well, but the etch is still there, I may enhance it someday…
A light sharpening and this is my favorite crosscut backsaw.









Handle finished with aniline dye, shellac, and wax..


----------



## DanKrager

Carl, now Ima have to do my two, you enabler you! Looks super nice!
DanK


----------



## woodcut

Thanks Dan! I see my photos are not centered very well, still trying to figure this thing out…

Forgot to mention I glued a thick shaving into the hole to keep the nut from spinning …

(Got a few pix corrected!)


----------



## DanKrager

I understand there is a size limitation for LJ pics, so if you resize before posting, they will be OK.
Still looks nice…you got the important parts!

DanK


----------



## Handtooler

I also own one like this, Yes, I would like to redo its tote. You've really done it justice. Very beautiful.


----------



## DocBailey

Ya done good, Carl!


----------



## DLK

Question: I need to make a small part (1/8×1/2×2 inches, with a center slot) for my Miter Box. What should I get to cut the metal? I was thinking of buying a small angle grinder. What brand do you recommend? Will I use it often enough as I continue down the rabbit hole of restoration? Can I instead for this project get buy a jig saw? Will I die if a just use a hack saw


----------



## summerfi

Don, you can make a lot of stuff with a hack saw and a file. For a piece that small I wouldn't hesitate. An angle grinder, while handy to have, wouldn't provide much of an advantage on that piece. You aren't likely to die unless you saw through an artery. ;-)


----------



## donwilwol

I agree with Bob, and for small pieces, start with a dremel. You can do a lot of cutting with the cut off wheels that come with them.

The only thing I use an angle grinder for is roughing out caps on infills, and with a course wire wheel for real nasty rust removal, but that's typically bigger machinery, like my lathe restoration.


----------



## Mosquito

What kind of Metal? I've been using a hacksaw to make 2-1/2" long cuts through 1/4" thick O1 tool steel (annealed). It's slow, but works. Otherwise a dremel (my rotary tool of choice is a Black and Decker RTX), should do the job as Don mentions.


----------



## DLK

Must I use my vintage dremel to do restoration or can I use my newer one? LOL

Anyway thanks for the advice.


----------



## warrenkicker

Went to an estate sale a couple of weekends ago first on Thursday and got a few things I "needed" and couldn't do without. I noticed a bunch of lathe tools that I thought my brother might want and went back again on Friday to get those for him. Finally my son and I went back on Sunday for one last look. I saw a few nicer things during my first trip like a Disston that I sort of regret not grabbing. I was also looking for a wood level or wood square and never saw anything until looking in a bucket of rusty junk at the last second on Sunday. Finally then I saw this and I told my son we had to get it. He didn't really understand why.

I only had to pick up three #2 brass screws as luckily the two #1 brass screws were still holding the edge in place. This was my first restoration so I probably screwed some things up but at least you can tell what the tool is now and your hands won't get black or red handling it anymore.


















Marking says E.C. Simmons Blue Brand with a patent date of 12-29-96. I understand this brand became Keen Kutter but I can't find any information about any squares being manufactured under the Blue Brand designation anywhere. There was some white paint in the grooves for the graduations and numbers on the scale but the evaporust seems to have loosened it up enough to cause it to come out.

Rosewood with tung oil and the blade has some wax.


----------



## racerglen

Now that's a transformation , GOOD job !


----------



## wormil

Wow! Are you going to true it and 'try' it out?


----------



## bandit571

Two saws have been cleaned up, from a rusty bundle









The before shot. Rather a bit rusty. The two saws will be the metal plate shorty saw, and the D-7 wannabe
The Shorty saw is a Columbian Brand < Atkins?> 









At least the handle feels like an Atkins made handle. Lots of etch on such a short plate









The plate is held by rivets









Which made cleaning the plate a bear. The second saw needed a repair, as the handle had not only cracked, but someone had used a screw to hold the two parts almost together. Got rid of the screw, glued the parts back together. Sanded things a bit, and gave the wood a splash and wipe of BLO. Haven't found any etch yet on the 10ppi blade. Found a couple extra brass bolts, and shined things up.









Blade seems to be fairly straight, too. Bolts were "clocked" 









Seems to be a later model of a D-7. There is a bit of lamb's tongue, though. 









Bundle of four saws was just two dollars, so these two would be about…a quarter each? Not too bad?


----------



## bandit571

Upon further review….this larger saw is a bit older than I thought. According to the Disstonian Institute, this is the No. 7 Light Weight Ship pattern from around 1928 or so. Has no nib on the end. Has an open top handle. Not too bad for an old saw? 26" long, 10ppi crosscut. There IS just the faintest of etching in the blade. Can make out the "Y" and the "DIS… of Henry Disston. The is barely a keystone etch under it. Can't see any "D" in the Keystone part. Might be a keeper?


----------



## wormil

I have a Lufkin combo square that needs some TLC. The numbers are in great shape. Will Evaporust eat away the ink in the numbers and tick marks? Or what would you guys recommend to clean this?


----------



## upchuck

Rick M.-
I have lapped rusty rulers with sandpaper lubed with WD-40 on flat substrate just to get the rusty crusty off of them. I didn't go to any extreme degree just enough to remove the rust. Then I took a piece of fine sandpaper wrapped over the side of a block plane blade to clean out the groove. If the numbers or tic marks weren't clear I'd use a brass tooth brush to clean them out then wipe it down well with a solvent and paint the ruler black. A quick lap again would make the numbers stand out. Lufkin made quality tools and the 6" size is handy.
chuck


----------



## wormil

Thanks Don, I'll do that.


----------



## JayT

I used cold gun blue on one of my combo square restorations to bring back the clarity of the numbers. It worked well.


----------



## bandit571

Took MAYBE 1/2 an hour to go from a rusty hulk of a saw..









To a shiny 1954 Disston National Hardware Special saw









That even has a readable etch









Needs to be sharpened up, and it will be like new.


----------



## wormil

Here is the 6" Lufkin combination square. When I hold it against my machinist square there is not even a sliver of light between them. Really the picture doesn't do it justice. Don the sandpaper was the trick.


----------



## chrisstef

Makes me wanna refurb my squares now ^. Solid work Rick.


----------



## wormil

Thanks, I got lucky. I was looking at drafting compasses and this fellow was selling a Dietzgen compass and for some reason including a square. I asked if it had a maker's mark and he said no, but I could tell it was a good quality square so I bid and won, $7 shipped for both. The mark was covered by the head. Once upon a time I could find ebay deals like that all the time, now they are rare as sellers have become more savvy.


----------



## TheFridge

That thing looks good.


----------



## CFrye

This is more of a clean and repair than a restoration…
Warrented Superior keyhole (?) saw before. The tip was broken off the blade. There was an old repair on the grip of the tote and a crack on the face where the nuts lined up. 








After:



























If I understand correctly, Fulton Tool Co. was a pre-Craftsman Sears brand. Now I need to get it sharpened…


----------



## racerglen

Nice job Candy !


----------



## DLK

Good work Rick, Bandit and Candy. I can't wait to start on my mountain of restoration when I get back to Houghton, Mi. (Two days traveling through Canada will get me there.)


----------



## DLK

The work is so nice I said it twice. (Double post again.)


----------



## fumehappy

It said "For Metal or Wood" in a large-type super light etch. Unfortunately it came off as I was cleaning the blade. Teeth are very fine. Since it seems to be a hack-hand saw I was expecting tougher steel. It was suprisingly soft.


----------



## CFrye

Thanks, Glen and DonK! 
What a difference, Happy!


----------



## racerglen

So, what are your go to tools in a resto ?










Two wire tooth brushes, brass and steel, a found handled file totally worn out, but reground to have a chisel end, a mechanic's pic, this one a Snap-On clone, a paint brush that's only used for brushing dust and crud away, a home made scraper from a sawblade, and an auto body detailers pen (fiberglas bristles, great for getting into rust pits 'm such)
Also used, regular tooth brush and single edged razor blades, spray lubes and the like.


----------



## bandit571

Depends on what I am working over…main item is a drill press & wheel









and a whole lot of sizes of wheels









Both steel and brass ones. A few helpers would be the right size screwdrivers. The Visegrips is to hold small parts securely, while the wire brush clean the parts. Also keeps my fingers from getting wired, and the parts from being Airbourne Qualified. Brush usually has a little 3in1 oil in it. 









A snader or two
















And a grinder. There is another beltsander in the shop…somewhere. And a can of WD40 ( need to go buy another one) and a can of Neverdull. Might have to get another tin of that,too.

Oh, and a 55 gallon drum of Elbow Grease does come in handy…


----------



## cjwillie

The first step in all my restorations is a good bath. A little Dawn dish washing soap and a toothbrush to clean off all the years accumulation of dirt and grime. It's a lot easier to find defects and problems without the dirt! I've done a few without cleaning them first only to find a crack or previous repair that make the tool worthless.

I use a brass or fine steel brush wheel in my grinder to remove the bulk of the rust and remaining dirt. A Dremel tool with a lot of wire brushes and polishing pads is a big help to get into all those places too small to otherwise reach. A buffer pad on the grinder and the small ones on the Dremel do a great job polishing brass or nickel.

After all that, I usually just put on several good coats of paste wax and buff by hand. I try not to repaint anything unless it's really bad. I prefer original finishes if possible but depending on the tool and it's value, I will do a complete restoration.

This is an addicting hobby, the more you do, the more you look for others needing done! Sometimes I find restoring old tools more enjoyable than using them but have no plans to give up my woodworking any time soon!


----------



## DLK

Working on this little chisel:

*Before:*










*After:*










(Stanley No. 8 in the background. Sorry the photo is so dark.)

*How can I repair this chip to the edge? Any suggestions?*










*Backside:*









The rest of the edge looks fine.


----------



## ToddJB

Don, I would be more worried about the amount of pitting on the back. If the sides aren't tapered I might consider just cutting it clean above the pitting.


----------



## DLK

The web site is not cooperating.


----------



## DLK

> Don, I would be more worried about the amount of pitting on the back. If the sides aren t tapered I might consider just cutting it clean above the pitting.
> 
> - ToddJB


I may do that it would be about 1/2 inch I think. Can an auto shop cut it for me or would that ruin the hardness? I don't think I want to try this with a hacksaw. Maybe a metal shop?

BTW its pretty sharp and cuts wood well along the rest of the edge.


----------



## DLK

More photos.

Backside:










Some reason I can't add another photo.


----------



## DLK

You know the blade is very thick. I wonder if it could be re machined to remove some of the later pitting and then I would not have to cut off as much.


----------



## ToddJB

That heavy pitting is on the side, not the bottom - I see. Maybe lapping it down would be the better option. Do you have a belt sander?


----------



## DLK

I do. Do you mean hand held or bench table?


----------



## ToddJB

Either would work. Bench mounted would be easier, but I believe Bandit has a few pics to show his hand held mounted to the bench.

That would keep it pretty flat, just keep dipping it in what to keep it cool.


----------



## Tim457

My slick was in much worse shape than that and I wish I had a belt sander. To get the pitting out I had to keep going back and forth between a hand crank grinder to remove more metal and 60-80 grit sandpaper on granite to keep it flat. I got pretty close before I ran out of time and haven't tried it again. All that to say a belt sander should do pretty well for you if you keep it cool like Todd said.

I also searched but didn't find what the shape of the bottom should be along it's length, perfectly flat, a little convex, or a little concave.


----------



## upchuck

Don-
Those are serious pits. They can be lapped out but it will require a major commitment of time and effort. A belt sander would speed up the process but then you run the risk of sanding valleys across the width or making the thickness different side to side. A machinist could do the work for you.
http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/chisel/chiselBacks/restChisels.asp
Maybe this link could give you some ideas.
To my mind slicks are parring chisels. Okay, maybe the Mother of All Parring Chisels but still parring chisels. Flat backs/faces are important to register the chisel with the work and a 20 degree or so bevel.
Good luck,
chuck


----------



## DanKrager

I'd sure try lapping the back before losing 1/2"! It's gonna take a lot of work, but worthwhile. Nice slick!

DanK


----------



## bandit571

Lets see if I can find a picture..









A lapping machine. 100-120 grit belt. Also run the bevels on it, either with a jig, or freehand. Make sure the belt is running away from you. Otherwise, it eats up belts…...


----------



## DanKrager

..."beltS" he says. Didn't learn from the first one? HA! LAWL!

DanK


----------



## bandit571

A TH Witherby 1/2" chisel came home the other day, mushroomed socket, and a bit on the rusty side. Bevel needed a lot of work, too









LONG chisel, too. Ground off the mushroom, got some of the inner junk out…..will have to do. Fired up the 40 year old lathe, and used a junk of Barn Wood scrap to make a new handle









Skew chisel made the lines. Pattern was an Edge Tool of New Haven Conn. mortise chisel I have. Chisel is now sharpened up, and ready for use. Seems to be a Firmer? Mortise? Timber Framer? Should work out ok, anyway. Box of rusty things was $2, chisel just might be worth that?









Maybe?


----------



## racerglen

Before

















My 1st split nut, ROBt Sorby, Shefiefld









Now

















And without sharpening


















My split nut driver does NOT fit, need to do something about that, the handles a wee bit loose, could go further on the cleanup ? still has oil on the blade from the sanding.


----------



## Tim457

It looks nice. It's an old saw so keeping some patina suits it but it's up to you if you want to go more.

Oil on the plate? Does that work for sanding? Did you make or buy your other split nut driver?


----------



## racerglen

Tim, the oil's used with wet/dry sandpaper and a sanding block to avoid humps and hollows from free hand sanding, can go up to 2 thousand grit and beyond that way, 1 stopped at 1 thou with a well worn piece of paper ;-) my shoulder told me that was it for the day.
Made my splt nut driver based on a DonW idea using the back side of a Stanley utility knife blade. Guess I'll have to get even more creative, you can see what Wm Reader (name's stamped in a "few" places on the tote), or a predacessor already did to the nuts trying to tighten it up. (there's also a wee wooden wedge at the back of the spine where it enters the tote, does not really work.)
Finish is one coat of BLO.


----------



## bandit571

You could always regrind a cheap spade style drill bit to make a split nut driver. Then it can be set into a handle to help turn it.


----------



## Tim457

What kind of oil? I thought most oils were bad for sandpaper's cutting action. Not that I would know, just thought everything but cutting fluid interfered. Spade bit is also what I heard some of the guys use and planned to do at some point. Utility knife seems like a good idea though.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Some split nut drivers from spade bits.


----------



## racerglen

Tim, just a spray lube type oil, this one was "Moovit", and it is a wet/dry paper, designed for use with a lube or dry, though usually the lube is water.
The utility knife seemed like a good idea but not in this case, thanks guys, I'm aware of the spade bit type, just not there yet ;-)


----------



## TheFridge

I use wd40 all the time. I like to use a magnet to pick up the filings instead of wiping/spraying the paper clean for the next go.


----------



## racerglen

As usual Red you're showing Konrad to be right, very nice drivers ! Did you blue them after shaping the metal ? Have a bottle of the stuff but haven't tried it yet.
Tim, the oil serves a dual purpose in that it loosens any rust in pits and brings some up as well as lubing the surface as you rub the plate.
Fridge, good idea !


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Glen, honestly I think I snapped the tip of those blades off in a vise. Then I ground it even, quenching as I went. The little notch was done with the side of a file.


----------



## racerglen

Thanks, all information gratefully accepted, have to hit my local old time hardware store for other things today, will be picking up a spade bit as well as it appears my "spares" collection is missing one of those ;-)


----------



## johnstoneb

I picked this up on feebay a couple weeks ago to fit a a saw I had. It took several year of following these boxes before I got one at a decent price. $20 plu $28 freight.









I finally had time to take it apart and clean it up.

















The saw had no etch that I could find but did have Langdon Miter Box co stamped on the back It now has a proper home. I still have to make the two stock holders.
It's a Langdon Acme 74 size 2 1/2


----------



## CFrye

Bruce, that cleaned up well. The before pic looks a whole lot better than the $20 miter box I saw the other day. Solid rust pile! BUT it had 2 user added scrap boards. LOL


----------



## racerglen

And we have sucsess !








National brand half inch spade bit, POS brand new at 4 bucks and tried your vice trick Red, it just bent the tip, real high quality stuff, ended up bending it back and forth to get a small piece off then to the grinder and the edge of a file..
But got it done.









Had this hex driver unused, it worked, will think about a Red upgrade after


----------



## racerglen

Swore I wouldn't touch the 45 from the Mother's day auction until I got caught up..








Oh well..










Need to loosen the nicker screws yet, one actually has a nicker under it, along with freeing up the the slider that holds the blade in place but otherwise just cleaning and reasembly, and add the rosewood fence from the car swap meet find to make it a user.


----------



## Tim457

> Swore I wouldn t touch the 45 from the Mother s day auction until I got caught up..
> Oh well..
> - racerglen


Hah, best laid plans… Combination planes are a lot of fun, hard to resist, there's so much going on.


----------



## CFrye

I think being 'caught up' is one of those urban myths. It never really happens.


----------



## DLK

Update on "Big Slick" see posts #4661 and #4665.

Finally found a machinist with a surface grinder. They estimate it will take 1.5 hours resurface the back to remove the offending pitting. Much off the time will be consumed by trying to hold the back level, because the blade is tapered. Looks like it will cost me $120 if I go this route. It may be the best option, that will guarantee good results.
What you think? Pay the $120 or spends hours with a belt sander and lapping.


----------



## fumehappy

combo prof, that looks like a tough case you have there. 
might I make a suggestion involving a belt grinder?
What if you rock it back and forth on the side-to side plane in order to alter your slick into a very shallow slick-gouge? Just a thought.

either way if you go with belt grinder get some 36 grit ceramic belts. that's what I did my badly pitted one on my blog post here:

http://lumberjocks.com/fumehappy/blog/35969


----------



## Mosquito

> I think being caught up is one of those urban myths. It never really happens.
> 
> - CFrye


I believe this. lol


----------



## DLK

I always keep 120 grit on the belt sander. So maybe trying a coarser grit would help. Doubt I can find the 36 grit ceramic belt in tow you suggest but I may find 60 grit, maybe it can be ordered for me. Nearest "big box store" is a 2 hour drive. By private message it was suggested that even if I pay to have it machined I will likely still have to lap and polish it.

So I think I'll try to find in town a coarse belt, remove the fence from by bench top belt sander so that the entire blade back will fit on the belt, and possibly build a jig to help hold the slick flat while sanding. I have until wednesday to decide on the machinist.

I'm a little afraid of using a grinder on it. But I have the granite and can buy sand paper.


----------



## DLK

Also I want to add there is a slight bow the the back of the slick. Is it supposed to be that way or did get there from some one (maybe me) lapping only the bottom say 4 inches of the blade.


----------



## summerfi

Don, send a PM to unbob on here and see if he would machine the slick flat for you. He loves doing that with plane soles.


----------



## wormil

> Update on "Big Slick" see posts #4661 and #4665.
> 
> ...
> What you think? Pay the $120 or spends hours with a belt sander and lapping.
> 
> - Combo Prof


Are you planning on hardening and tempering the blade when done? Even if you don't overheat, it may not have been hardened completely through the first time around. Personally I would sell it and let someone else decide what to do with it. Some tools are too far gone for the amount of effort to bring them back.


----------



## DLK

I'm planning on keeping it cool so that I won't have to harden and temper the blade. Its a big thick piece of metal that hardly gets hot on the belt sander. But I suppose the thin edge might.

Its a T.H. Witherby I am pretty certain its harden completely through.

Anyway. I going to try do this by hand. By spending say 30 to 60 minutes a day with it until done. I found a 50 grit belt here so I will try that and see how it goes. I also got some coarse grit for metal sheet sand paper for the granite block.


----------



## upchuck

Don-
First correct the "belly". Then lap.
chuck


----------



## DLK

Thanks for the suggestion Bob, I sent a PM to unbob.

I will do Chuck. Probably correcting the belly will also remove most of the pitting.


----------



## DLK

BTW the biggest issue is I am trying to do to many projects at once. I guess for a 9 month appointment academic that is what are summers are for.


----------



## racerglen

I'd thought a slick had a slight bow lengthways to the blade as well as the handle, something to keep fingers safe while, well, slicking ?


----------



## DLK

Can someone confirm Glen's thoughts on the bow.

Acodding to Wikipedia:

_The blade of a slick is slightly curved lengthwise, and/or the handle socket is cranked upward, such that the handle and socket clear the surface of the work when the edge is touching

However for the slick I have this is not the case.

Just where the blade begins to narrow towards the socket it becomes thicker/wider below the blade. So one could only pare up to that point. Indeed the thickest part of the handle lies just below the plane that the bottom of the blade is in.

BTW flattening with the belt sander and 50 grit is making progress. Slow but progress none the less.


----------



## Tim457

> Can someone confirm Glen s thoughts on the bow.
> 
> Acodding to Wikipedia:
> 
> _The blade of a slick is slightly curved lengthwise, and/or the handle socket is cranked upward, such that the handle and socket clear the surface of the work when the edge is touching
> 
> However for the slick I have this is not the case.
> 
> Just where the blade begins to narrow towards the socket it becomes thicker/wider below the blade. So one could only pare up to that point.


I can't confirm how it's supposed to be, but I can say mine is basically the same way yours is. If it were perfectly flat, the part where it gets thicker near the socket would keep it from paring any farther. I had done some searching in the sources I have and didn't come up with anything definitive. Earlier in this thread upchuck said as flat as possible would be better. When using it you can come in from the side as well to pare past where it would reach normally.



> BTW flattening with the belt sander and 50 grit is making progress. Slow but progress none the less.
> 
> - Combo Prof


Progress is good. If you've got a large amount of metal to remove, do you have an angle or other grinder? You could go back and forth and save yourself some time.

But Rick has a point, even if you don't overheat, it may have only been case hardened and not hardened all the way through.


----------



## DLK

*Tim* I have a 3500 rpm bench grinder with a Norton White Grinding Wheel 6×3/4 - 150 Grit that I use for grinding new bevels, and the higher grit of the usual grey wheels that come with every 3500 rpm grinder.

I don't see how I could use it to grind down the back for such a big chisel, without putting serious ripples in it.
Maybe you could explain how to do it.

BTW *racerglen* the bow you mention would lift the handle up away from the surface being pared.. The bow in mine forces the handle down in the surface being pared. So *UpChuck* I think is right. and I have removed this bow already. It was as I said very slight. Chisel is flat now up to the point where it gets thicker near the socket.
I was going to adjust this. But because *Tim*s is the same way I wont.

I think a week of bench sander grinding at 50 grit for an hour a day or so will probably do the job.


----------



## Tim457

Yeah you'd put ripples in it, but then the belt sander would have less metal to remove to get back to flat again. Basically look where the belt sander is hitting and where it isn't and grind in light passes over where the high spots are and make sure to miss any low spots. I do it fairly often with an angle grinder, a regular grinder seems like it would be harder to control. I did do it on my slick with a hand crank grinder because that was easier to control the amount taken off. I agree the sander will eventually work. The machinists will scoff, but it gets the job done without $$$ in equipment.


----------



## DLK

So here is what the slick back looks like after a few sessions with 50 grit on the bench top belt sander.




























As a reminder this is what it looked like before the 50 grit grinding.










So it's coming along. Back is still flat, but I may start lapping on granite soon.


----------



## TheFridge

Good luck bud. My arms hurt looking at that bastard.


----------



## racerglen

Can't really do a before as this Millers Falls #9 was picked up BDC, before digital camera ;-)









Minor clean was done perhaps 5, 6 years back, blade mirror polished on back, but it sat in a box as the rear tote bolt was snapped off below the surface and all attempts to get it out failed. My machinist friend who recreated the 358 mite box holdfasts did some creative works and it's back in operation. M/F stamped on either side of the tote, logo on the blade and made in USA cast behind the solid frog are the only markings.









Couldn't believe how quick it was to set up and make shavings, just reasembled it, quick sight down the sole, couple tweeks of the wheel and away we go.


----------



## j1212t

Don't know if this is strictly a restore or not. But definitely gave new life to an old tool.
Found an old 3/4 USSR made chisel from the MIL's country place, which was used by previous owners to stir paint or similar tasks. Took it away and made myself a new tool in my grandfathers shop over the weekend. Turned this:









Into this:









Needed one for half blinds and I think it'll work nicely, the chisel really couldn't get any worse as it was, so I figured I can't mess it up, so might as well give it a shot. Could use some more practice on grinders to get a better, more consistent edge on the side bevels, but that'll probably come with practice.


----------



## racerglen

Nice Jake, I'd call it a rebirth/restore !


----------



## DLK

Very very nice. Gives me some ideas. Its what they call an upcycle or repurpose plus a restore.


----------



## racerglen

this might better be a state of the shop, or where I'm at..
Dark shot, 607 roundy rock STILL soaking (frog and bolts/screws rusted solid)








45 still soaking..(When I got the cutter out it turned out to be an "adapted" half inch chisel blade ! )









Handle for Atkins picture frame saw ready for my 1st try at "Tru Oil"after 2 slurps of BLO








No idea what the coppery stuff is on Mr Atkins blade, went through a sanding process, still there, followed by acetone, mineral spirits,Citrasolve and finally Bar keepers friend








Now just need to do some more sand/polish and a go at blueing up the etch and stamp.


----------



## ksSlim

Glen, 
I've had good luck with autosol and aluminum foil for the final polish.
Autosol or Flitz out of the tube and a wad of aluminum foil keeps the etch while shining up the rest.


----------



## b2rtch

I would grind all the bad part and hope for the best that what is left is hardened.
If it is not hardened then take it to a black smith or do it yourself
Hardening/tempering a chisel is not rocket science, I did it in the past


----------



## bandit571

Well, this rusty old plane had a sales reciept from 1899









Stanley No. 5, Type 6, in fact. It spent a bit of time in the rehab center









Cleaned up nicely?









That little brass wheel even has a few Bailey Patent dates in it. 









Very short and fat knob of Rosewood. Right in front of it is a "No. 5" on a slight boss. 









I don't think I can "lap" those two holes out, though. They are counter-sunk, because there used to be a wooden fence screwed to this plane. 









Stamp says "STANLEY" and then below it " Pat. Apl 19 92"

Not too bad, for a $3 plane?


----------



## racerglen

Thanks Slim, I'd forgotten the 'foil and Autosol trick in the midst of the rest of the stuff going on, used it before to good results.
Bandit strikes again, good haul !


----------



## Waterlog

Not too sure where to make this post but I picked this tool up this morning and do not have the slighted idea what it is. It is a very cool tool. When the handle is cranked slowly clockwise, 2 arms move out ward and then come back in and then the hammer type arm comes down hard in the very center and there is a very small wedge shaped blade fitted in the end of the hammer arm. The whole mechanism is mounted on a 2' long piece of wood similar in size to a 2×4. Does anyone know what this tool is?


----------



## cjwillie

Possibly a tool to set the teeth in a saw after sharpening?


----------



## DanKrager

I agree with Willie. To be sure, post this over on the saws thread and experts there will ID in seconds. Prolly make them all jealous.
DanK


----------



## Waterlog

I sent a photo of it to Summerfi over there on the saw thread and he did ID it in seconds. You are right, it is a saw set but for a band saw. Very old style, there is one on eBay now offered for over $300. Thanks for your input. I will clean her up and show you the after when its done. Lester


----------



## Mambrax

I got a Miller Falls #14, most likely WWII era du to the steel knob for $19. It came with a iron marked "Stanley": I suspect is not the original one, can you guys confirm. I'm just getting started, so learning every minute! Cheers !


----------



## JayT

> I got a Miller Falls #14, most likely WWII era du to the steel knob for $19. It came with a iron marked "Stanley": I suspect is not the original one, can you guys confirm. I m just getting started, so learning every minute! Cheers !
> 
> - Mambrax


Definitely not the original iron, Millers Falls had their own logo on the irons. No reason the Stanley one won't work just fine for a user, though. Both companies used the same widths.

Welcome to the slippery slope of handplanes.


----------



## Waterlog

Here is a photo of a MF logo on the iron of a No.9 I have on eBay right now.
Lester


----------



## Mambrax

Guy a Revonoc restoration.









Before










After

Great detail on the blog : http://lumberjocks.com/Mambrax/blog/59290


----------



## Bundoman

Passed to me by a family member nearly 20 years ago, I have had this boxed up for years. Today, I returned it to a functional plow. Arms were stuck and wedges were pretty far gone. Clean, sand, and BLO were all in order as were new wedges from a donor plane body. Some of the brass wound up shinier than I might prefer but there were some sharp nicks and gouges that needed a little smoothing. I plowed grooves into scrap this afternoon and it works quite well now.


----------



## theoldfart

Nice, nice job Brent. It's ready for a few more lifetimes.


----------



## TheFridge

Don, how long is that jointer in your original post? That thing goes on for days.


----------



## donwilwol

A type 1, Sargent #414, 1887-90 (I need a type 1 Sargent cutter, if anyone has one they would part with)



















After restoration



















Note the type 1 tote style


----------



## JayT

Nice job, Don. What does a type 1 Sargent cutter look like?


----------



## donwilwol

> Nice job, Don. What does a type 1 Sargent cutter look like?
> 
> - JayT












There is a chart with all of them at the bottlom of my Sargent page http://www.timetestedtools.com/typing-sargent-bench-planes.html

I'd even settle for a type 2.

Its 2 1/4" wide.


----------



## terryR

Wow, that was a quick restore, Don, and looks fantastic!
Sorry, no extra T1 irons, but will watch…


----------



## upchuck

Don-
#414 at 2-1/4" wide? 
I have a 2" type 2 cutter that has been sharpened to 8000 grit.
chuck


----------



## donwilwol

Ha, fat fingered that. Its a #418.


----------



## byerbyer

Before pics of a S. Cheney & Sons hand grinder.



















I've since cleaned it up inside & out with some simple green & WD40. There were 2 teeth that were a bit boogered on the inside but you'd never post cleaning. The first thread on the shaft was dinged as well so I need to chase the threads somehow before I buy a wheel for it. 
Anyone know a good way to clean up left handed threads? I don't have a LH tap & die set. Thought about rounding up a cheap thread file or just braving it with one of my saw files.

For those who care that's a Bell's Two Hearted Ale clone I brewed with a friend in town.


----------



## JayT

> Anyone know a good way to clean up left handed threads? I don t have a LH tap & die set. Thought about rounding up a cheap thread file or just braving it with one of my saw files.
> 
> - byerbyer


Thread repair file. I have two from General Tools and they have been life savers on plane restorations. I might even know a store in Dodge City that keeps them in stock. 

Good to see you found a hand crank grinder. Where did you pick that one up?


----------



## byerbyer

> Thread repair file. I have two from General Tools and they have been life savers on plane restorations. I might even know a store in Dodge City that keeps them in stock.
> 
> Good to see you found a hand crank grinder. Where did you pick that one up?
> 
> - JayT


Found it on Nextech for $15. It didn't even dawn on me to look for a thread file while I was buying a spare LH nut just in case… Doh!


----------



## Bundoman

Don,

The Sargent looks good. I got a chance to dig, but although I have a few Sargent irons, there are none of that type in my pile. Sorry…

Brent


----------



## wormil

That's a sturdy looking crank grinder and well used by the looks of the wheel. Do you know the ratio? What do the innards look like?


----------



## DLK

I am restoring my first transitional plane a Sargent 3418. The end stamp is:










What finish should I use to make the stampings pop and be more visible.?


----------



## racerglen

I'd vote for boiled linseed oil…


----------



## donwilwol

I usually sand very lightly with high grit paper (like 320) and give it a coat of BLO. I typically do the very minimum on that end.


----------



## DLK

I used 50-50 mineral sprits and BLO. Looks good. Now I am puzzled by 2 things.


Was japanning used on these planes or is it just black paint? Seems to be paint to me.
The real puzzler is that the blade with it is sharpened at exactly 15 degree. Is that correct?


----------



## JayT

Japanning was used on any I've found.

15 degrees won't give a very strong edge, so wouldn't be my preference. Transitionals have the same 45 degree bedding angle as iron bodied planes, so can be sharpened the same.


----------



## donwilwol

I agree with JayT. I have repainted with engine enamel (same thing I use for bench planes) with good results though, and Just like the metallic bench planes, I sharpen them at 25 degrees. (which I believe is what they came from the factory with)


----------



## DLK

O.K. thats what I thought someone must have sharpened this blade incorrectly. I'll have to cut a new bevel and resharpen to 25 degrees. It was a surprise to me.

On the other hand the fellow I got it from is a wood worker and has an amazing shop of very old industrial power tools. He makes custom molding for restoration projects. Incredible guy, he built his own kiln drying system, 3 phase supply for the tools that he collected and restored. So while I was there I said "where are your old hand tools" 
and he showed me his self of a half dozen or so. I said l"let me know when your ready to sell some" and he pulled out this tranny and said "I know he don't want this". I susspdct with a 15 degree bevel it didn't work very well. Its mine now for $10.

The Japanning was cracked and pealing so I have wire brushed it off and smooth. I will re-paint. I think I have that engine enamel. Rust-oleum I believe.

Good news is the bottom is flat and orthogonal to the sides. I just planed a small shaving from the top to make it parallel to the bottom.


----------



## Handtooler

Maybe, just maybe that low angle at one time had a special/specific use for the master? Sometimes craftsmen did unusual "tricks" techniques for a purpose.


----------



## rtbrmb

Happy 4th to all the lumber jocks out there.

In April I made this posting Bailey no. 7 blade question and received responses from; lateralus819, TheFridge, rwe2156, DonW & unbob thanks for all your input. After electrolysis the original Stanley logo appeared on the blade-mystery solved.

Since then I was able to restore my type 11 #7 Bailey jointer to working order. Most of the original jappaning was gone so I had the top of the plane sandblasted by a monument company and dipped the rest in an electrolysis bath on a Sunday afternoon.

The most time consuming part of the process was putting blade in a condition where I can use it and, more importantly, touch it up quickly in the future. The electrolysis removes the rust & still leaves a nice patena look to the plane. I bought some brass polish and I like how the brass parts now stand out.

I sanded the handle & tote a very little to get the look of the original rosewood.





































This photo shows the original owner's initials "TT".










This is a good look at the original Rosewood tote.










I need to fiddle with the adjustments a little more but I like the results so far.










Thanks for looking


----------



## Tim457

Very nicely done. And the shavings too.


----------



## donwilwol

Very nice job on the #7.


----------



## Handtooler

You really restored that charm to probably better than new condition.


----------



## bandit571

Got these two at an auction for a five spot awhile back









Stanley No. 28 and No.29. Gave the shorter 28 a through claen and tune up









The 29 will need a new frog at a later date. Tune up?









Used the No. 28 to make a bevel on some Curly maple









This is what was flying out towards the end of the job…


----------



## Bundoman

Found at a garage sale Father's Day weekend. I got a little time to clean it up today and am pleased with the results. Probably looking at St. James for cutters as it had only had the 3/16" with it. I believe it is a type 7.


----------



## racerglen

Very nice Brent, hard to imagine that from the pile you brought home.


----------



## JayT

Nice job on the early 45, Brent. Check prices on cutters with St James, but you might also be better off buying another complete 45 with cutters on ebay. That would give you two bodies to use somewhat interchangeably and probably won't cost any more than a set of cutters. The other reason is that the biggest improvement Stanley made to the 45 was adding a depth adjuster. I can't imagine trying to operate one of the early models without one.


----------



## DLK

*Help!* I'm still working on the Sargent 3418 transitional plane. I thought I was all done, but when putting it back together I find that even at the highest setting the chip breaker remains below through and below the sole by 3/16". Coincidently when I took it apart I found a stack of 3 washers between the frog and the metal base on each screw. I of course removed these so that the frog would sit squarely on the base. This presents a plethora of questions:

So could it be that the sole has been shortened by someone too much? It measures 1.5 inches thick. 
*How thick is the wooden sole of your Sargent 3418 transitional plane? *
Is it the wrong chip breaker? 
Is it the wrong frog?

Most importantly


How do I fix the situation? 
Should I laminate 1/4 " or so onto the sole? 
If so what wood to use? 
Then how do I get the right mouth opening?
While writing this I now think it may be easier to laminate to the top. (Doing so I could construct the proper piece out of 4 sections, similar to how wooden planes are built these days.) What say you?


The other think I noticed was that the the "y" adjusting lever was held in place by what looks like a bent nail and not the usual straight pin.


----------



## bandit571

I can go and dig out my Sargent 3416 and look it over if you want.

Adding that many washers means the sole has worn down by that much.. Try replacing the washers,first

Chipbreaker MIGHT be a Stanley, along with the iron, but doubt it. Sounds like a re-flattened sole that was a bit worn down to boot.

Might have a pin for that….some pins were bigger than others. My "spare" pin is from a late model Millers Falls iron bottom plane's frog ( BRIGHT RED).

Tight mouth opening and a Try plane ( it is the same size as a #6 stanley) don't usually match up. A little more gap-osis than a smoother is fine…

FWIW: Check the "Y" and make sure they didn't get it reversed when they replaced it…


----------



## upchuck

Bundoman-
Is that a #45 or #46?
chuck


----------



## JayT

Probably the wrong chipbreaker, Don. Transitionals, because of the extra sole thickness, have the hole to engage the depth adjustment about 3/8in higher on the chip breaker. If someone replaced the original with one from an iron bodied plane, that is exactly what happens.


----------



## JayT

> Bundoman-
> Is that a #45 or #46?
> chuck
> 
> - upchuck


chuck, good point, I should have looked closer before posting. It does look like a #46.


----------



## DLK

O.K. I may know the answer but would like comfirmation anyway. I compared the photo of the end stamp I took: 








With end stamp shown on the Sargent planes page:








And it appears to me that my wooden body has been shortened by at least 1/4". If someone could measure thiers for me I would know for sure. Then I guess lamination solves the problem.


----------



## upchuck

JayT-
I wasn't sure myself. I had to go back to the rust hunting topic of around father's day to remember that he got a sweet deal on a #46. I couldn't tell just by looking but nice work on the rehab Bundoman.
chuck


----------



## bandit571

Body SHOULD be 18" long. If the "brand" is still there, then they MIGHT have trimmed the "excess" of the tail end. 









This is my Sargent/Fulton 3416. It is 16" long. Did a refurb awhile back on this one.

I guess I could go and dig it out….


----------



## DLK

You guys were quick. I did check the "y" it looks in the correct position to me. Blade says Sargent on it.

*JayT* What should the distance from the distance form mouth end of the chip break to the depth adjustment hole be.

*Bandit* please do measure 3416. I will try to add the washer stack and see if it makes the correction. If it does I think I have an easy solution: make out of wood a pad say 3/16 " thick to go between the frog and the metal base.
I did not understand when you wrote:
Tight mouth opening and a Try plane ( it is the same size as a #6 stanley) don't usually match up. A little more gap-osis than a smoother is fine…
can you explane. I may take you up on the pin if necessary.


----------



## DLK

*Bandit* I need to know how thick it is not how long nor how wide.


----------



## bandit571

Give me a couple minutes

A Try plane is closer to a Jointer plane than it is to a smoother plane, doesn't require a tight mouth.


----------



## JayT

> *JayT* What should the distance from the distance form mouth end of the chip break to the depth adjustment hole be.
> 
> - Combo Prof


I ran out and measured a couple and am coming up with 4-1/8 to 4-1/4 from the end of the chip breaker to the bottom of the adjustment hole. On my iron bodied, that same measurement is around 3-3/4


----------



## bandit571

No. 3416 1-1/2" thick. Mouth opening is a hair over 1/4" without the iron.

Stanley No. 28: 1-11/16" thick. The 28 is also 18" long. more of a try/jointer plane









did a decent enough job making a beveled edge. Shavings, in Maple









Ok, here is another measurement for you to check: from the "y" adjust slot, to the top of the larger oval hole in the chipbreaker=1-1/2"bare.

Note: on mine, I had to flatten the sole a bit, as there was a high hump right at the mouth opening. Sloped up from there in both directions.


----------



## bandit571

Try plane at work









Going at a diagonal to the grain, leveling the "scoops" left by the scrub jack plane. Once the shavings become a nice, long wide shaving, surface has been "Tried" and is almost flat…not smooth… just flat.

Plane in use is a stanley No.6c, 18" long, type 10.


----------



## DLK

> *JayT* What should the distance from the distance form mouth end of the chip break to the depth adjustment hole be.
> 
> - Combo Prof
> 
> I ran out and measured a couple and am coming up with 4-1/8 to 4-1/4 from the end of the chip breaker to the bottom of the adjustment hole. On my iron bodied, that same measurement is around 3-3/4
> 
> - JayT


I am still confused. Mine measures 4.616 almost 4-5/8. So I think this means wood body has been made to thin.



> No. 3416 1-1/2" thick. Mouth opening is a hair over 1/4" without the iron.
> 
> Ok, here is another measurement for you to check: from the "y" adjust slot, to the top of the larger oval hole in the chipbreaker=1-1/2"bare.
> 
> - bandit571


My No. 3418 is 1-1/2" thick. Mouth opening is 7/16" without the iron…. pretty wide.

The distance from the "y" adjust slot, to the top of the larger oval hole in the chip breaker=1-5/8+

It seems then that 1-11/16 the size of *Bandits* Stanley No. 28: is the correct thickness. My 3418 is also 18" long.


----------



## Bundoman

Thanks for the kind words, suggestions, and comments. It is a Stanley 46 so it has the skewed irons. I should have added that in my original post. I have read that the irons are a little tough to find in the wild but have gotten lucky before. I guess That I will keep the eyes peeled or St. James is a definite option.


----------



## bandit571

You MIGHT also check over @ nhplaneparts.com….an Ebay "store". Eric usually has quite a bit of Stanley parts.


----------



## terryR

Don, sorry I missed this discussion yesterday…

I have a dozen Sargent trans planes; all the soles are different thicknesses. Probably just used a great deal, then re-flattened many times. I also have several that allow the iron to protrude from the base no matter how the frog is adjusted.

That's why your '18 had washers to lift the frog.

Best fix is another sole added to the base. Then drill the new mouth from the top, and clean up with a chisel from the base. Just make the new mouth large enough for your shavings, a factory measurement isn't needed. Leave the new mouth tight and open it larger if needed after you use it a bit, if shavings get hung up in the mouth.

Hmmm, you didn't mention the iron sticking out…just chipbreaker. It could be non-Sargent? But I think your jointer needs more sole.


----------



## upchuck

ComboProf-
I agree with what TerryR said above. His suggestion is the typical and traditional fix for your situation. Also note post #4761 by JayT. I have bought odd loose chip breakers and after cleaning them up couldn't get them to fit on the plane I wanted them to fit. Some are just different sized, shaped, or spaced then others. I wonder if all of these issues are related to the 15 degree grind that was on your blade. Was that an attempt to make it work by some past owner?
chuck


----------



## donwilwol

Don, try the chip breaker in one of your metallic planes. If it works, its the wrong chip breaker. That would be my first guess. Even if 1/4" had been removed, I doubt the cutter would stick out that far.

I don't seem to have a 3418, and as Terry mentioned, they tend to vary. Also the stamp on the front isn't always in the exact location on every plane, so its not a good reference.


----------



## DLK

*terryR* I agree adding a new base is the best option but I am working on another temporary fix today. I'll add the new sole later, but I am eager to try my fix first. When I do the work to add to the sole, what are some good woods to use, what is the best? Easy for me is local hard woods: Hard and soft Maple, Oak, Ash, cherry, etc. However, I am only 1.5 hours from Bellforest and will pass by them this coming weekend so I can just about get anything, for example lignum Viatae if they have a big enough piece. But what do you suggest? The iron of course is adjustable with respect to the chip breaker the edge of the iron must be set to exceed the edge of the chip-breaker. So if the the chip breaker sticks out too far, then so must the iron.

*UpChuck* Good to hear from you again. I did see post 4761 and because of it we took measurements. I'm pretty sure that the chip breaker is meant for a plane with a thick wood body.

*DonW* I took that into account and measured the thickness of the wooden sole relative to the size of the stamp, thereby not relying on the exact location. None the less it was only an estimate and therefore asked for people to measure there 3418s for me.

I am particularly keen on this because I have a dozen or so wood body bench and molding planes to do. I also have over a dozen never used but still rusted irons to rehabilitate and build moulding plane bodies around. I suspect when I get to the very last one I'll be an expert.

The addition wood for my work bench build should be acclimated to my shop by tomorrow so I'll be returning to that and will slow down on restoration until done.


----------



## donwilwol

Look on the janka scale and find the one with the highest rating. It will last the longest. Anything around beech would be good however.


----------



## DLK

> Look on the janka scale and find the one with the highest rating. It will last the longest. Anything around beech would be good however.
> 
> - Don W


(American) Beech and Ash have the same Janka scale 1320, I have a ton of white Ash. Hard maple is harder 1450 and easy for me to get, particularly birds eye maple.


----------



## terryR

DonK, what DonW said. 
Beech, Hard Maple…something affordable.
I have a '16 that has a whole new body from Red Oak. works and looks great!


----------



## bandit571

Sole replacement (maybe) would be a nice slab of Beech, as that is what the rest of the body should be.

Note: An easier fix would be to add a new layer to the TOP of the body. After all it is just an iron framework sitting there. Cut out the square holes to match. You can even add a "hollow" under the depth adjuster. You could even make that new layer ANY flavour you like, even add an inlay on the toe end?

On my 3416: The screw holes to hold the frog in place were threaded. Just like an iron plane's base. They did not really attach to the wood body, either. They merely had a hole to clear a way for the bolt to come through the iron frame. Of course, mine were also stripped out, so they got new threads and bolts.

So, instead of a little square under the frog, just raise the entire frame work up a 1/8" or so…..frog will raise as well when the frame is raised. Maybe add a brass edging around the new layer?


----------



## DLK

Yes *bandit* I will add it to the top. I have a cool Idea. I hope it works. I tried raising the just the frog. But alas the requires longer bolts which I can't find here with the right threading. I guess this is my project to finish today. I hope SWMBO will allow it. I promised to make some buttons for her.


----------



## DLK

Here is the Sargent 3418, so far. *But I still need some help*. Details below.

Before:










After:










But I can't show shavings because the "y" adjusting lever does not extend far enough into the rectangular hole of the chip breaker to hold it in place. You get it set to take a shaving and the chip breaker and iron just slip over and past the "y" adjusting lever. *Any ideas how to fix this?* Remark recall I mentioned that the pin that holds the "y" adjusting lever in place has been replaced with a bent nail. So I'm guessing it was taken out and altered, by previous owner. Can I bend it? If so how? Where can I buy one and what are its official names to search on?


----------



## CFrye

All dressed up, Don K! Can't help on the Y. Sorry.


----------



## upchuck

ComboProf-
If you are asking if the "Y" thing (yoke?) can be bent…don't do it. On old transitional planes it is almost surely made of cast iron. And, yes, it will bend an insignificant amount just before it snaps and breaks in two or more pieces. Cast iron is very brittle. If you are asking about the bent nail/pin…nails can be bent easily. They are made of mild steel. Typically the factory pins are harder steel and it will be difficult to bend one in a controlled manner and still install it into the frog. My experience with factory pins is that they require a pin punch to remove them from the left to the right side of the frog. I don't like to totally remove the pin because they can be a pain in the butt to reinstall without carefully lining up the pin and the hole. It is supposed to be a tight fit. And I try to keep the banging on the cast iron parts of planes with hammers to a minimum. A proper fitting nail would be a good choice to replace that pin if you need to replace it. The mild steel of the nail could be peened to keep it from falling out and possibly after peening the nail could be bent to gain another 1/32nd of an inch for the "Y" to help it make contact with the chip breaker. I have also seen a collar wrapped around this pin to tighten up the play between the "Y" thing and the pin/nail. The collar was cut out of a beer can. The hole in the "Y" is bigger than needed.
chuck
P.S. I checked and found two different names for the "Y" thing: 1) "Y" adjusting lever, 2)Yoke. If you were talking about the pin/nail then I would call it the "Yoke Pin".


----------



## BoardCop

Awesome restore Don!!! Sorry guys I'm way behind!!! . Beautiful rtbrmb!!! Nice Bandit! Combo Prof good stuff!!! Bundo man very cool!!! You guys do some awesome work!!


----------



## DLK

Thanks Chuck. Just what I wanted to hear about bending the Y and I did not think about changing the shape/position of the pin.


----------



## bandit571

I would take a close look at the end of the "Y" adjuster….I have had one that was filed down. In fact it was on my stanley 26. I had the replace the "Y" because the tab that sticks up…was ground off. It was the one that needed a new bottom, and a tapered one at that.









IF so, find any old, rusty frog and remove the pin. See IF it will fit the Sargent frog. And, see if the pin will too. IF the pin is a little too big, no biggie, just drill the hole to match.

Another thing to look for….IF the lateral lever's tab isn't IN the slot on the blade, the "Y" will not reach the slot, as the tab/wheel/bearing will raise the blade up off the face of the frog. Noticed the lever was way off to the side, there might be such a gap.

New Pin? Drill rod sized to match the existing hole.


----------



## DLK

> Awesome restore Don!!! Sorry guys I m way behind!!!
> 
> - BoardCop


 Thanks, still not functional though. One last issue to resolve.


----------



## upchuck

ComboProf, ComboProf, ComboProf-
Do what Bandit said first.



> Another thing to look for….IF the lateral lever s tab isn't IN the slot on the blade, the "Y" will not reach the slot, as the tab/wheel/bearing will raise the blade up off the face of the frog. Noticed the lever was way off to the side, there might be such a gap.
> 
> - bandit571


Another thing…It looks like the blade is not seated tight to the frog. That is something else that could be the problem. And that would be the easiest fix.
chuck


----------



## DLK

Thanks *bandit* I'll check it out tomorrow in view of your suggestions. Will this restoration ever end.


----------



## DLK

The latteral lever is really loose. I thought it was in the slot.


----------



## DLK

I'll take some close ups of the situation if I don't have it resolved and post them tomorrow.


----------



## BoardCop

Awesome restore Don!!! Sorry guys I m way behind!!! 

- BoardCop

Thanks, still not functional though. One last issue to resolve.

- Combo Prof
[/QUOTE]
You'll figure it out. Some of these are night and day. Loving it!!


----------



## DLK

^
I hope so. I would not have gotten this far without the helpful advice received in this forum.


----------



## DLK

Here is are some pictures of the "y" and the bent nail that held it in place. (Squares are 0.2" by 0.2", i.e. 5 per inch)










So I think the "Y" is fine but the diameter of the nail was to small therefor replacing it with the correct diameter rod will raise it some.

I think the main issue is that it does not lay flat on the frog as you guy's observed. It rocks on the chip beaker screw (a.k.a cap iron screw) the screw that holds the iron to the chip breaker. Thus the cavity in the frog that receives the head of the of screw is not deep enough. I suspect it is either to thick with paint and japanning or there is a manufacture defect. In either case it needs to be ground down. *Will a dremel be sufficient to do this?* By the way it is the thinnest chip breaker screw head that I have ever seen. I wonder if it was reduced by filing.


----------



## JayT

Don, I think you are back to the chipbreaker not being the correct one. If the spacing to the hole isn't right, then the cap iron screw doesn't sit correctly into the recess in the frog.

If you are just wanting this to be a user, rather than grinding the screw, I'd suggest finding a chipbreaker of the right width and making a new depth adjustment hole in the correct location. That would solve several problems. I had to do that with a plane recently. The two holes looks kind of funny when the lever cap is off, but it works just fine.


----------



## DLK

Maybe that is a possibility. I wonder if I could instead drill and tap a new screw hole. But is it not the case that the the chip breaker screw is to be allowed to travel the length of the frog cavity when the "Y" is adjusted with the brass adjusting nut. I'll have to look over a few of my "working" planes. maybe see how they would fit in the 3418. Also, I was not grinding the screw, I was planning to grind the frog cavity.

Even if I do get it to lay flat I am not yet convinced the Y will fit far enough into the square hole of the chip breaker.

As a side note you will see that the "lever" on the lever cap appears to be solid brass. First time I have seen that.


----------



## terryR

Don, I think I agree with Jay, your 18 has non-Sargent parts. That iron must sit flat on the frog…sounds like a lot of problems are the result of that?

I just dug through a few boxes and have an extra 3418 chipbreaker and iron! Iron is stamped with VBM inside the rectangular shape, so a Type3? Cannot remember which type you have, but these may fit?

Never seen a trans with brass on the lever cap! My parts 18 has a Stanley lever cap, but you are welcome to it as well.

PM me…


----------



## Tim457

> I just dug through a few boxes and have an extra 3418 chipbreaker and iron! Iron is stamped with VBM inside the rectangular shape, so a Type3? Cannot remember which type you have, but these may fit?
> - terryR


You're an awesome guy. But I think I heard Don or HMike say that the iron/chipbreakers were given different types from the plane bodies and frogs by the guy that did the Sargent typing.


----------



## bandit571

What a sargent trans lever cap SHOULD look like









and the frog









I go and find a few chipbreaker photos after a bit…..


----------



## DLK

So my apologies. I reported that the chip-breaker/Iron were rocking on the chip-breaker screw. I looked it over and they are not. They rock on the rivet that holds the lateral adjusting lever in place. This is not an issue if the the iron is set back enough that the round end of the slot included this revet. In such a position they lay flat on the frog. Also with the new 5/32 brass pin I installed to hold the Y it appears to protrude sufficiently. So all is good now, right? Unfortunately the iron is too short. It does not exceed the length of the chip-breaker when set in the lying flat position. Now you might recall originally I found that the iron bevel was ground to 15 degrees I expect that this shortened the iron and when I reground it back to 25 degrees I further shortened the iron. These together with other sharpening may be the ultimate culprit. I think I at least do need a new iron and probably it would not hurt to have a matching chip-breaker with it. An alternative is to extend central channel of the iron so that it contains the rivet when in the correct position. Another possibility is to grind down the top of the rivet so that it is below the frog "sides" and lives completely in the cavity that it is in. I tried tapping it down.


----------



## bandit571

Ok,went down to the shop. I have three planes I can compare their chipbreakers to

sargent 414 iron bodied. the Sargent 3416, and the Stanley No.26. The 3416 has about 1/8" more in width. So, here we go









L to R: #414, 3416, stanley 26 Note: the 414 would NOT fit either of the wood soled planes. Slot was way too close to the lever cap bolt. The sargent and the Stanley wood bodies would take either of the sets. Stanley one would fit and adjust in the 3416. That "notch on the Stanley 26 is from where someone tried to get some extra mileage out of a too short iron. But, IF you add that notch at the top of your chipbreaker…..









A look at the bolts. Sargent 3416 has a beveled edge around the top. Note how close the bolt is to the slot on the 414. Theory is your's is a replacemt…might even be a Union Tool co.?

Width of the iron and chipbreaker on an "18" would be right at 2-3/8" wide.

got to thinking (dangerous, I know) about that steep edge grind…..someone tried to make a scraper plane out of this plane? Poorman's 112???


----------



## DLK

Here are pictures of the chip-breaker/Iron that came with the 3418 that I have:










The iron measures 2-3/8 by 6-13/16. Bolt is not beveled.

I'm beginning to think we need a new forum: "Handplane of you nightmares".

But no worries she'll be right.


----------



## woodcox

P. Sellers bloggy today concerning frogs n throats, good info. 
https://paulsellers.com/2015/07/understanding-the-frog-in-your-throat/


----------



## DLK

Well I decided to risk a modification of the iron and extended the channel past the "key-hole".










Now the Chip-break and Iron lay flat on the frog. Finally some shavings:










Still needs some tuning, but not too bad.

A thank you to all of your input and help with this plane.

I learned a lot.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

This one is rough enough that even I'm feeling compelled to pull more of a refurb than normal. As in, paint and such…


----------



## Mosquito

Smitty! Dang it man, you're holding out on the HPOYDs…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Mos, this is not what dreams are made of…


----------



## Mosquito

gotta start somewhere lol I've been hoping to find a chamfer plane like that some day. Can't afford a nice one lol


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Okay, it's there.

Other than needing a 'proper' cutter, this one is pretty good. Just about as ugly as could be without getting kicked from the litter though.


----------



## Mosquito

Definitely look forward to the restore on that one. Did it come with a standard iron like most bench planes then?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

This one is sans original iron. I only have Der Leachmeister to go by: standard block plane cutter without the grooves will do. 1 5/8" wide.


----------



## terryR

DonK, Congrats on making shavings! It's just a shame someone hacked up the plane, but at least you treated it as a challenge.

Speaking of a challenge, Smitty, the good thing about starting with a complete rust bucket is how amazing the restored photos will look!


----------



## Mambrax

I got a Spock shave at the flea market today for $2, the only indication is "No 58" (it has some sort of spring loaded action), which lead me to believe it's a Stanley. But i cannot find any return on Google for it. That will not be a big issue except it missing the blade, so i'll need a new one. 
Any clue will be appreciated.
Thanks,


----------



## Mambrax

Ooooooppsss !!!!!!!!!!!! It's actually a 53 !!! Apparently i cannot read either !!!


> I got a Spock shave at the flea market today for $2, the only indication is "No 58" (it has some sort of spring loaded action), which lead me to believe it s a Stanley. But i cannot find any return on Google for it. That will not be a big issue except it missing the blade, so i ll need a new one.
> Any clue will be appreciated.
> Thanks,
> 
> - Mambrax


----------



## donwilwol

> Ooooooppsss !!!!!!!!!!!! It s actually a 53 !!! Apparently i cannot read either !!!
> 
> I got a Spock shave at the flea market today for $2, the only indication is "No 58" (it has some sort of spring loaded action), which lead me to believe it s a Stanley. But i cannot find any return on Google for it. That will not be a big issue except it missing the blade, so i ll need a new one.
> Any clue will be appreciated.
> Thanks,
> 
> - Mambrax
> 
> - Mambrax


Well, supercool.com doesn't have a picture, but here is what he says,

#53
There ain't one. A plane, that is. There is a common as mud spokeshave that's numbered 53, but that's another subject for another day.


----------



## DLK

wrong forum (again) but got it moved in time.


----------



## Mosquito

That is one heck of a "You Suck" there Combo..


----------



## chrisstef

Excuse me while i rusterbate. Mother of all hauls combo!


----------



## theoldfart

Wow, what a score. It must be Miller time Don. Some day I'll have a 46, someday….......nah!


----------



## CL810

Don, MOTHERLODE!!! That's all I have to say.

Edit: where did it go?


----------



## bandit571

Well..this pile of things got a good cleaning the other day…









Yep, six braces sitting there. Need to build a till for them…

Got out the saw file, and finished up a saw refurb, this little guy is a 6ppi Disston D-23 I picked for free









Made sometime after 1928, and before WWII. Stamped right on the blade…"6". Had to add a little wax on the plate, but it will cut nicely now..









Hardware is brass. Nice big compfy handle. Never once bound up in the cut. I think I might just have a decent rip saw for the saw….price was right….FREE.


----------



## DLK

Thanks all. Funny now that I have it all moved to the proper forum. I posted "Instructions for the use of Simonds precision Cross-cut saw tools No. 342" over on the rust hunting forum.


----------



## DLK

You will all be happy to know I went and ordered a couple of 5 galleon containers of evapo-rust. Turns out from our True Value I can get it for $71 per 5 galleon container. I can't beat that price anywhere else. YMMV.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

Ya I think i paid 18.00 for a gal.


----------



## DLK

> Ya I think i paid 18.00 for a gal.
> 
> - daddywoofdawg


I bet thats after the HF coupon too.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

> Ya I think i paid 18.00 for a gal.
> 
> - daddywoofdawg
> 
> I bet thats after the HF coupon too.
> 
> - Combo Prof


No think it was at walmart


----------



## DLK

> Ya I think i paid 18.00 for a gal.
> 
> - daddywoofdawg
> 
> I bet thats after the HF coupon too.
> 
> - Combo Prof
> 
> No think it was at walmart
> 
> - daddywoofdawg


Seems unlikely, they only sell on the website by the 32 oz bottle.


----------



## donwilwol

look at citric acid. its cheaper. A little slower but not bad.


----------



## DLK

I thought I read/heard that there were pitting (?) issues (or something) with citric acid.

I did a little reading. It depends on the concentration. To strong it will damage the underlying metal, to weak and it won't dissolve the rust. But maybe at the correct dilution with a diligent watch you could get to it in time when the rust is dissolved and the underlying metal has not been attacked. After all the rust will dissolve first.


----------



## donwilwol

> I thought I read/heard that there were pitting (?) issues (or something) with citric acid.
> 
> I did a little reading. It depends on the concentration. To strong it will damage the underlying metal, to weak and it won t dissolve the rust. But maybe at the correct dilution with a diligent watch you could get to it in time when the rust is dissolved and the underlying metal has not been attacked. After all the rust will dissolve first.
> 
> - Combo Prof


There must be a long flexible range, because I just dump some in. And evapo rust will pit metal as well, especially hardened metal like blades. Always make sure your piece is completely submerged or you will have an etch line.


----------



## DLK

The evapo-rust site has writen:

We see a lot of folks trying to remove rust in all sorts of ways. Sometimes an alternative seems to work, but it definitely comes at a cost. (And we've tried everything.) One of the worst rust removal methods we see all too often is citric acid.

Citric acid naturally occurs in fruits and is used in everything from laundry detergent to soft drinks to sour candy - in very small amounts. In order for citric acid to work on rust, it has to be much more concentrated than in these common uses. (It is a powder that mixes with liquid.) At this level of concentration, sure, citric acid can remove rust, but it is also harmful to the metal below the rust, (not to mention if it has paint on it) in addition to to your skin, nails, and other materials that come into contact with it.

What's the point in removing the rust from something if it is going to be damaged in the process? Evapo-Rust® does not cause pitted metal, deteriorate materials, irritate skin or nails, and doesn't even have to be mixed!

So not only does Evapo-Rust® remove rust more effectively than citric acid ever will, it's safer for you, the environment, and especially your valuable metal! Using Evapo-Rust® doesn't take any work or additional ingredients so it's even easier to use.

Don't let whatever the lure is for alternative rust removal methods make you learn the hard way that Evapo-Rust® is better. Save yourself some time, energy, and headaches, because the only thing Evapo-Rust® will hurt is your pesky unsightly rust, like it should.

I confess I don't understand the chemistry. I shall try it and also electrolysis and see for myself. Of course they (evapo-rust) is selling their product, but I expect there may be some truth in what they say.


----------



## DanKrager

I've become a big fan of electrolysis. Almost all acids can etch metal and so does soda electrolysis, but when completely submerged, the etching is uniform and occurs very slowly and only when the metal is exposed after dissolving the rust. What happens when a piece is only partly rusty and there is exposed metal at the start? Well, my experience is that the exposed metal suffers some etch while the rust is dissolving, but it is so little that a quick touch up with some light abrasion blends all.

The electrolysis setup doubles as an etching process for decoration. When you make the templates you can etch the design into almost any metal and then color it if you want. 
DanK


----------



## Tim457

The quote from Evapo-Rust is partly true, but not 100%.
I use citric acid a lot and I can say for sure that it works and that I see about the same etching of the tool or part being cleaned as with evaporust. It's possible the etching is a little more with citric acid but it's not enough to notice. I also don't measure the citric acid I put in but when I shake some into the water stir it and add some rusty metal I get light bubbling. It definitely goes after the rust first and then the concentration of citric acid goes down so it never really has a chance to attack the metal aggressively. I find that if I have parts with some shiny iron and some rust the shiny part comes out of the citric acid with no noticeable etching at all. If there is worse rust and you leave it in longer then you get some more etching. But I figure if there is pitting rust then that part is already damaged and I'm going to have to use abrasive methods to get the pitting out anyway so I don't worry about a little etching since Evaporust can't fix that either. And evaporust definitely etches the metal some as well, so they're wrong about that.

They're partly right about the citric acid bothering your hands but as long as you wash your hands after and don't leave them in the citric acid for hours it's not a problem. I use gloves most of the time anyway because the black iron oxides really get in your skin and stay there and I try to avoid that.

All that said, Evapo-rust really works well too and if you don't mind paying for it there's not really a downside to it.


----------



## TheFridge

I forgot an 82 scraper blade in a bath for a week and it looked chewed up. Never had any pitting probs aside from ok that. With citric acid.


----------



## DLK

In the end I think you can only know what you experience, so if citric acid, electrolysis, or evapo-rust works for you thats great. It seems that there are properties that make each favorable and properties that make each unfavorable.


----------



## donwilwol

I am in no way discounting evapo-rust. I think its a great product. I also think if you're putting together a list of user planes its the way to go. But its the most expensive option. Again, if its a dozen, or maybe even 2 dozen planes, its not going to be a noticeable difference.

But I do it enough that I would like to show some kind of profit on the ones I flip, so cost matters. If I can find a product at 1/10th the cost, does the same job, I'm not worried about a little additional attention.

And keep in mind, if the rust pitted the metal, any rust removal liquid is going to enhance the pitting, its there and there is no fixing that.


----------



## Mambrax

Looking for a replacement screw for a old plane I'm putting back together. Not very exciting. However the interesting part is that some vendor on Ebay are asking around $20 for it (US $, yes.!!!!). That is absolutely ridiculous, especially considering the fact their is 14 in a row, on the same page, for sell (so not that "rare"). *It's not the price it's the principal, that is irritating! *I personally don't care about the market value of those, which is artificial and based on really nothing tangible, I'm interested in the hobby and the history (see my resto blog for more info). It's a easy, affordable, safe and fun think to do. Let's keep it that way.
It will be a absolute shame that a couple of greedy rats to ruin that great movement for all. I'll encourage all to boycott those vendor or self proclaimed expert. I will for sure. Just my two sense.
Thanks,


----------



## Mosquito

out of curiosity, what screw are you looking for? I've had to get one for a #46 fence before, and I bought an entire stash of parts (got an almost complete #46 and almost complete #45 out of it) just to get the one screw.


----------



## Mambrax

Mosquito : thanks, it's a depth stop shoulder screw for a #78. Cheers


----------



## Mosquito

ah yes… missing one of those myself as well lol


----------



## donwilwol

> Mosquito : thanks, it s a depth stop shoulder screw for a #78. Cheers
> 
> - Mambrax


looks like$2.50 at http://www.stjamesbaytoolco.com/


----------



## Mambrax

Don W. : Thanks, very cool info.


> Mosquito : thanks, it s a depth stop shoulder screw for a #78. Cheers
> 
> - Mambrax
> 
> looks like$2.50 at http://www.stjamesbaytoolco.com/
> 
> - Don W


----------



## DLK

Here is a 78 clone. Can someone tell me who made it?

*Before:*









The lever cap was braised and needed painting.

*Lever cap:*









*AfterFront:*









*AfterBack:*


----------



## Tim457

I can't confirm but every bit of ribbing and the trapezoid depression where Stanley would go matches Stanley 78s. Looks like yours said made in USA but compare to this one made in England:
http://www.hansbrunnertools.com/Stanley%20by%20numbers/Stanley%2078.htm

Maybe yours was a later made in US model?


----------



## DLK

I compared it to the Stanley 78 I own and it is very very close. Only a few slight variations. Then because of your post Tim, I poked around e-bay and had an epiphany. LOOK AT THE BLADE. The blade says craftsman and so I believe it was made for craftsman by Stanley.


----------



## Tim457

> I forgot an 82 scraper blade in a bath for a week and it looked chewed up. Never had any pitting probs aside from ok that. With citric acid.
> 
> - TheFridge


That's true, you can do that with Evapo-rust and it won't cause that much damage. It will just leave the thin etched gray coating. I think Eric left a plane part in Evaporust for 6 months and it came out ok.


----------



## bandit571

Maybe a Millers Falls version? My Stanley made for Wards doesn't handle that style of handle…..


----------



## DLK

> Maybe a Millers Falls version? My Stanley made for Wards doesn t handle that style of handle…..
> 
> - bandit571


O.K. then still a mystery I'll look at some miller falls if I can find them. ..... O.K. yes same handle as MF.


----------



## racerglen

Ist try at repairing a broken horn.








Using donated applewood from last year, #8 thumbhole handle, next up a more tricky part..


----------



## JayT

Nice repair on the horn, Glen.


----------



## racerglen

Thanks Jay T , quite happy and surprized with how well it turned out myself ! When this one's done there's another thumbhole waiting..lol..It's horn isn't as bad but the lower area is broken off almost the same as this one..a design flaw ? or just a hazard of use ?


----------



## DLK

This amused me.










The result of using Bob Summerfields oven cleaner method to remove grease from a tote.


----------



## Tim457

I forgot if he said there was more to it than just spraying it on. I have a few tool parts I need to try it out on.


----------



## DanKrager

Practicing the wheat carving, first effort. I made an electronic pattern from a photograph of another handle that had the original type carving on it, and printed out a pattern to apply to the "blank". I get to do about five more handles before I'm done, but only two "thumbies". I put the jpg file on my web site blog for download if you wish, and it should be very close to the right size. On my equipment it is perfect…there isn't much tolerance. I carved using a Barton chip carving knife. Apple carves beautifully.
The pattern:









The new cut:








DanK


----------



## DLK

*Tim*, you just spray it on wait say 5 minutes and then wash/wipe it off. I usually scrub it with a scotch pad too.

*Dan*, looks fine.


----------



## DLK

*Tim*, you just spray it on wait say 5 minutes and then wash/wipe it off. This one I let sit through morning tea. I usually also scrub it with a scotch pad.

*Dan*, looks fine.


----------



## bandit571

The FUBAR Jack plane









Has been rebuilt into a "user". Needs a 2" lever cap….









Sole and sides are cleaned up..









Needs a few parts to make it "better" Like a bolt for the toe and a new tote. The frog adjust bolt was almost broke, one good crank to get it out of the base…snap. easy out, and a new bolt? Front knob has a split..









At one time, long ago, this WAS a Stanley No.5 Type 11 with a BAILEY in front of that short knob.

Still needs some work done, base had broke at one time in the past, someone had brazed/welded the pieces back together. Still a crack at the mouth opening, about it.


----------



## CL810

Dan, the new looks better than the old.


----------



## Tim457

Dan that looks great, very nice job. I didn't realize thumbies were carved too.

Thanks, Don.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Beautiful work on that carving, Dan.


----------



## DanKrager

Thanks guys. I've learned that it is close to impossible to keep a paper pattern from shifting even if I use a fairly aggressive contact cement. In the pictures I can see discrepancies that shouldn't be there because of that. Maybe it gets better with practice? And maybe it's not too important that they are all identical. I can see significant differences between the handle elements too, so it's clear that they were not CNC produced and perhaps not produced by jig either. By hand and eye applies…
DanK


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I'm guessing the carving was by hand and eye, hundreds (if not thousands) of times each day in the factories if yesteryear.


----------



## Tim457

Were there saws with wheat carvings for a long time? Bob linked to a video of someone in a (Disston?) saw factory using a powered spinning router type blade that they would hold the handle blank up to to cut each slot for the wheat. There must have been carvings well before that was available though.


----------



## DLK

As I recall, Bob said that carvings were a latter addition and do not necessarily mean the saw is more valuable. I think he said the belief is they were added to make the saws look fancy and sell better. Still cool though and my wife always picks out the saws with the pretty handles.


----------



## DLK

I traded with Terry for a proper blade and chip-breaker for the Sargent 3418 it arrived today and this photo is for *Terry*.










So thats the end of my Sargent 3418 saga. Its now a good user.


----------



## Mambrax

very nice !!!


----------



## warrenkicker

Here is a little rerun of an earlier restore but now the 9" square found a little 6" friend. First a picture of the weekends finds and then the before and afters. 5 of the 8 chisels are Stanleys. I also picked up some nice two-screw wood clamps for $3 each. The squares are all squared up and ready to use.


----------



## theoldfart

That's not a restore, it's a resurrection! Nice, nice work.


----------



## Tim457

Very nice Warren. Any tips on squaring them up? Does the trick of peening the inside corner from carpenter's squares work for these?


----------



## warrenkicker

Well maybe I don't know what I am doing but I used a file to change the angle. 
The 9" Simmons square rivets the blade to the wood. The 6" Stanley has a cast brass L and the wood is riveted to the brass. No chance of bending either square at all so I felt filing away the blade was really the only option.


----------



## terryR

A Stanley no.3 smoother recently acquired from eBay…










A Type9 body and frog, but with a newer iron. A very small crack on one side of the mouth, not extending as far as the side, so should be stable for my lifetime?

After new paint and bleached wood…










...and honing to 4000 grit…










...not bad for a 110 year old tool!

And, yes, I'm a dirty, nasty collector…










types 6, 9, 11, 16, 17, and 19. To be cont…


----------



## putty

Very nice Terry, you have them all restored beautifully! And with 6 no. 3's you should always have a sharp one


----------



## upchuck

TerryR-
Which one is your favorite and why?
chuck


----------



## chrisstef

I think that wheat carved thumbhole is off a D100 no?


----------



## DLK

Can someone remove the spam in post 4878 and ban the poster?


----------



## DanKrager

Stef, I don't know. I bought a couple handles from the bay that had no blades to use as patterns. I have blades with broken handles that I will try to repair first, but my goal was to make all cherry handles for the saws and planes, (lacking apple and rosewood…) and it can be thought of as a "signature". I just like the look and feel of cherry. (mind your manners). The Diston saw blades are so far gone as to have virtually no value except they might be great users when fixed up. The others, meh, but a cherry handle might perk them up a bit.
DanK


----------



## terryR

chuck, my fav would be the type11 so far.
it's 'matching numbers' and works like a dream!


----------



## Tim457

> Can someone remove the spam in post 4878 and ban the poster?
> 
> - Combo Prof


Hmm, you might be on to something.









Hah, seriously though the flag button here works fairly fast it seems.


----------



## DLK

Tim, my post was 4879, but when 4878 was removed it became 4878. And yes I clicked the flag when I later saw it.


----------



## Tim457

I knew, I was just messing with you.


----------



## DLK

> I knew, I was just messing with you.
> 
> - Tim


Yes …. and pretty funny too.


----------



## bandit571

parts is parts









And I still have more to make. White Oak.









Stiles and rails. needs mortises and tenons made, and a few raised panels. Still have three more rails to mill up.

Yep, Dungeon Shop is still in working order….


----------



## TheFridge

I missed out on the fun? Deleted posts and whatnot?


----------



## JayT

TH Witherby folding drawknife picked up last week at our WW Guild swap meet










Had a lot of surface rust, black paint on the blade, silver paint on the handles, a little workover and now:


----------



## bandit571

This thing might take awhile..









Well this a part of it..









A mr. Arthur J. D'Leary of Chicago ILL, USA vise.

Cost me $5 today….The rest of the stuff? $1 for the four…


----------



## daddywoofdawg

I got a Stanley square with rosewood?handle,brass trim,and black colored blade This it's grime.My question is how do I clean the grime off the wood handle I'd really like to keep the color, just remove the black grime.any thoughts on the blade? should it be black/dark charcoal grey and maybe the engravings need paint again?this is a user but do like prudy tools.


----------



## bandit571

Try a wash in Murphy's Oil Soap….


----------



## donwilwol

Re-post from Mitre box of your dreams Thread

A recent find



















After a little clean up and new piece of oak.


----------



## DanKrager

You know you're getting old when your tools (bought new) and wedding gifts start showing up in antique stores.
Nice Don. I have the next model later, I think. Only difference I can see is the post guide. 
DanK


----------



## terryR

Nice work, Don!

Daddywolf, also try TurtleWax Rubbing Compound, great for cleaning dirty wood and not discoloring it.


----------



## Mambrax

Miller Falls from Ebay


----------



## donwilwol

Nice save!


----------



## TheFridge

1/2" Stanley 750 with new mahogany turned handle.










Unfortunately, this has reaffirmed my… Dislike of lapping the backs of chisels. Don't know if I'll ever get around to the other 2. I really like finding them!


----------



## Tim457

Nicely done. But I'm with you, I wish there were a better method for chisel and plane iron backs. Maybe I need better quality sandpaper. This 1-1/4 gouge I have is giving me fits too getting the pitting out of the inside.

And of course, if you need a place to send your nice vintage chisels you don't want to work on, let me know.


----------



## terryR

nice looking handle, Fridge!

I realize DMT's are expensive, but I find the 160 grit to be excellent at flattening vintage steel.


----------



## Tim457

That does sound tempting Terry. I see on Amazon the DMT extra extra course (120ish) is cheaper than the Eze-Lap extra coarse (150ish) now. Expensive, but cheaper than water stones and lasts longer. I'd think a 120 grit diamond plate would remove material pretty quickly.


----------



## Matt59

> This thing might take awhile..
> 
> A mr. Arthur J. D Leary of Chicago ILL, USA vise.
> 
> Cost me $5 today….The rest of the stuff? $1 for the four…
> 
> - bandit571


Awesome! I refurbished a post vise last year; it was covered in rust but electrolysis took care of it after a few hours. I didn't have a container big enough to submerge the entire vise in so I had to flip it a few times.


----------



## chrisstef

Worksharp for flattening backs. Still takes time but you can do it sitting down and basically in your sleep. I did a 2" slick recently and it took 30 mins or so but a sip of beer at 2 minute intervals really made it better.


----------



## Tim457

> Worksharp for flattening backs. Still takes time but you can do it sitting down and basically in your sleep. I did a 2" slick recently and it took 30 mins or so but a sip of beer at 2 minute intervals really made it better.
> 
> - chrisstef


Now you're talking my language. 30 min is way better than the couple hours I've already put into the back of my slick and it's not close yet.


----------



## TheFridge

Gonna have to check that out. I really don't like lapping.

The dmt is my second one. The first was returned in April and it only took them 3 months to send me a new one. If I had to do it a gain I'd get an ezelap. I have an ezelap f/sf and I've run all kinds of steel and carbide through it and it's still chugging along great.

Granite and a crapload of sand paper is what I used in the end. I used the stone to double check progress but did most of the work on paper. I really do like the xc for reestablishing primary bevels though.

Edit: I may take you up on sending them to a good home but Id really like to finish what i started no matter how much fun it is not. If I decide to get rid of them I'll give you a holler.


----------



## byerbyer

So I'm finally back to wrapping up my hand grinder restoration, but I hit a little snag. The collar/bushing that holds the wheel is too close to the end of the shaft so there isn't enough width for the washer and nut.



















I bought a fender washer that is larger than the threaded shaft but smaller than the bushing and I've tried driving the shaft further through the bushing to no avail. If I put the not on the threaded end and gently tap opposite direction I can get the shaft backwards into the collar.

Any suggestions? I'd rather not take it all apart again if possible.


----------



## ToddJB

Byer, something like this may work

http://www.amazon.com/Motor-Extension-Grinder-Polish-Buffer/dp/B000OVHZB2


----------



## donwilwol

Or would something like this work, http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231185849254?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D53601919689_324272%2526itemid%253D231185849254%2526targetid%253D87946124769%2526rpc%253D0.16%2526rpc_upld_id%253D52944%2526rlsatarget%253D%2526device%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F231185849254%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526gclid%253DCPDesoyUhscCFQEOaQodRdoCtA%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D876872996955


----------



## Johnny7

what is the width of the wheel you're trying to use?


----------



## byerbyer

Norton 6×1x1 wheel. Perhaps I should go with the 6×3/4×1?


----------



## Johnny7

Exactly-I have probably 12-15 older hand-cranked grinders, and most can accomodate only a 3/4" wheel, without modification.


----------



## terryR

Another Stanley No.3 to feed my addiction…










A Type10 (1907-09) in such good shape I was hoping to avoid painting. But, after 24 hours in EvapoRust just an old toothbrush was able to remove the old paint job due to rust underneath.

So, new paint, new finish on the wood (shellac), and this smoother is ready for The Show…



















Full width shavings for your weekend pleasure…


----------



## JayT

Nice job, Terry. That's my favorite Stanley logo, but you only find it on type 10 and some early type 11 Baileys and the type 4 & 5 Bedrocks.


----------



## TheFridge

Terry, on the sole, evaporust only? Or did you sand the sides afterwards?


----------



## terryR

Fridge, I scrub the bare metal with a maroon scotchbrite pad and WD-40. But, not enough to create a super shiny surface.


----------



## TheFridge

Looks good, thanks.


----------



## tylerh

Hey there everyone. This isn't a full resto yet.. waiting for the plane to come in the mail. However I've gotta question for ya. I picked up a Stanley No. 3 type 13 (almost positive but could not see any marking's on the iron) off of etsy for $22.00 plus $10 shipping. I talked him down from $35+shipping because the tote and knob are the worst I've ever seen. And I told him I would send pictures when I got it all cleaned up. So my question is, will the No. 4 wood fit on the No. 3? I've seen some places it does but just want to make sure. I would like to get original rosewood for it and was also wondering if anyone had some spares on a donor plane. Here's some pic's, but be careful as they might blind you.


----------



## ToddJB

Wow.


----------



## tylerh

Wow is right. I skipped right past it because of that, then decided to go take a look and found out it was a type 13. I've got a #4 from the father in law that is a type 13 but didn't know at the time, and also a #6 that I picked up for cheap on ebay that was so rusted it turned out to be type 13 also. So now I'm determined to get a set of type 13's (searching for a #5 next


----------



## donwilwol

that's quit the knob and tote. I'd almost be tempted to keep them


----------



## tylerh

Lol Don. I'm considering it.. Not on it though I think my hand's might break just from touching them. Maybe a new brass adjustment wheel too?


----------



## donwilwol

> Lol Don. I m considering it.. Not on it though I think my hand s might break just from touching them. Maybe a new brass adjustment wheel too?
> 
> - tyler


You'll need to find a broken or cracked frame that will not make a user and create a display piece.


----------



## tylerh

Maybe display in the restoration dungeon (basement) to remind me it could always be worse. Somebody either tried really hard or didn't give a crap when making them. Either way I feel bad for whoever actually used them.


----------



## summerfi

I finished restoring the 1957 Delta 37-220 6" jointer that I picked up earlier in the summer. I replaced the bearings, installed a new modern safety switch and cord, put in sharpened knives, gave it a total paint job, and re-aligned the tables. It runs and cuts like new. Since I already have a jointer, I'm going to sell this one. I think I'll run an ad on here first, and then put it on Craigslist. Anyone interested?

*Before*









*After*


----------



## donwilwol

beautiful job Bob. I have a jointer and you live on the complete opposite ends of the country, so no interest in buying, but I can window shop.


----------



## terryR

Very nice, Bob!


----------



## tylerh

Lookin good Bob. I would jump on that if you weren't so damn far away!


----------



## daddywoofdawg

How much? I'd like one.


----------



## jmartel

How much are you looking to get for it, Bob?


----------



## summerfi

I'm thinking $300 but I don't think it would be practical to ship. You're coming this way soon though.


----------



## jmartel

About a month from now, yes.

My biggest issue is space, though. Especially since I just added a second motorcycle to the garage.


----------



## lateralus819

Very nice work Bob. Looks beautiful!


----------



## putty

Nice work Bob, I bet it purrs!

Will you have to go work the California fires?


----------



## summerfi

Probably Putty. I got a request this morning and I'm waiting for a call back.


----------



## ToddJB

Good job on the jointer, Bob. I'm currently working on Delta's 8" version.


----------



## DonBroussard

Excellent rehab, Bob!

I am pretty proud of the work I did on this Craftsman bench top jointer (Model 103.23340):



















It's my first powered jointer, so I'm using this to learn the mechanics of the machine and of the physical material handling of the workpiece/s. I'm pretty sure I'll upgrade at some point.


----------



## Buckethead

Some excellent rehabs gentlemen. Both jointers look fabulous.


----------



## warrenkicker

Those both look great and make me wish I had more space for that size of equipment.

Don - how fast did you get that done? Nothing else in the picture moved.


----------



## DonBroussard

Thanks, Bucket and Warren.

Warren-That's funny too! It took me all day Saturday. When I take before and after pics, I try to get one of the same orientation to make comparisons easier.


----------



## donwilwol

> It took me all day Saturday.
> - Don Broussard


Now that's impressive Don. Nice work. I had that exact same jointer. I used it for a few years and when I found my new one I tried to sell it. Nobody wanted it, so I parted it out. I sold every piece and had emails coming about a year later asking if I still had parts!


----------



## john2005

Thats some nice work there Bob. Looks like a Milwaukee too. I should take it off you hands cause it would match my lathe. I'd be in trouble if I did though…again…


----------



## ToddJB

Ya gotta have a matching shop , John. You've earned it.


----------



## grfrazee

Got some shop time this weekend, but it was mostly spent working on a crib for my forthcoming nephew.

I bought this barn-fresh Sandusky Tool Co. coffin smoother a year or so ago at an auction. The cleanup was pretty easy. I used this cleaning formula my dad makes (about 1/2 part BLO, 1/2 part vinegar, with a little grain alcohol mixed in, needs to be shaken each time before dipping a cloth in) and just wiped off the dust and grime, leaving the nice patina.



















The blade was a little rusted and pitted and the edge was chipped. Spent a little time with a wire wheel removing the rust and some time on the grinder bringing back the edge, then sharpened it on the stones. Takes nice shavings now, though I still need to get the hang of setting the blade just right.


----------



## bandit571

Ugly yard sale saw?









Corsair C-26..VERY blocky handle…and the after?









I had taken the saw bolts out before I took the first photo. That is an etch on the plate, not a silk-screen logo. Plate was covered in a clear coat. Owner had used it, barely enough to wear the CC off at the teeth. Which is where it rusted. Rounded the square edges off. Stripped the old finish. Three coats of BLO..


----------



## warrenkicker

Picked up a new-to-me me cordless drill. Millers Falls No 2 apparently from the 30's with 4 bits. The red paint wasn't too bad but the japanning was almost gone.


----------



## terryR

Here is a Sargent 708 Auto-Set, Type4 (1910-18). Overall in great shape, just dirty…










I gave it a scrub with WD-40 and scotchbrite pads, re-finished the knob and tote with shellac, then sharpened the iron to 4000 grit.










honestly, it came out a little more shiny than I wanted, but should gain patina quickly in my humid shop!

Making shavings again…gotta love it!










I can see why the Auto-Set mechanism never sold that well; it's a bugger to fettle! The standard chipbreaker design is far superior IMO.


----------



## Johnny7

Terry
that is a very tasteful resto job


----------



## Tugboater78

Awesome Terry

Haven't checked this thread since april, had a lot of catching up to do…

Beautiful restores all around everyone..


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job Terry .


----------



## lateralus819




----------



## CFrye

^^^ Beautiful, lat!,


----------



## Tim457

Wow lat, that looks awesome. I have one like it but I probably won't ever get it looking that nice. What did you get all the rust off with?


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks Candy!

Tim- Thank you. I media blasted with Glass beads (Best media to use IMO). Then the sole/bolts/blade etc go into a bath of evaporust.

Then I wire brush everything to get the grime that the evaporust removed. Can make any play look new.


----------



## Brit

Brilliant restore Lat and some great photos too. You've really shown the tools versatility. Well done!


----------



## lateralus819

Thanks Brit. I'm working on my photography skills. Getting better.

I broke the original body like a doofus and had to procure another body from John2005. As you can probably tell, it is from an earlier plane. It has the notches milled for the lever cap and it is missing the pin for stopping the gears. other than that though it works.


----------



## putty

That is amazing Lat… how bout some action shots!


----------



## john2005

> Ya gotta have a matching shop , John. You ve earned it.
> 
> - ToddJB


Right?!

Sweet job there Lat. Looks awesome


----------



## terryR

Very nice, Lat!
Bud, I wish your sandblaster lived closer to my lathe.


----------



## bandit571

Maybe not quite as fancy as Lat's but this thing showed up today in a box…









Union iron with a whale-tale? Well, took awhile….

















I almost got the sole flat, at least flat enough for the girls I round around with









Shined up nicely, though..









Not too bad an afternoon's work….


----------



## terryR

Here's another Sargent Auto-Set; a714 Jack; type3 (1902-09). I cleaned this plane lightly with soap and water a few months ago during the HPOYD Numeric Show and Tell, but wanted a better chance to restore it.










The only problem with this plane was the previously broken and repaired tote. After scraping off the old finish, I discovered a small wood screw placed through the top of the tote in support of the repair. I thought the tote repair looked horrid, so tried to improve it.










Based on the age of this tool, I assumed the original wood is East Indian Mahogany, but having none in stock I chose Honduran Mahogany for the splice. As you can see, the match is not so good!

I'll probably let my OCD take control and shape another tote/knob from African Cherry, which is very close to the original Mahogany. Why bother with a new tote? I've noticed that 4 out of my 6 Auto-Sets have the exact same break present in the tote. After removing the old finish, it's obvious the grain of the wood is oriented incorrectly, and has caused a very weak point around the hardware of the tote. my other Sargent bench planes don't exhibit this grain orientation, so I assume someone missed a memo on the Auto-Set project?

Anyhow…the restored plane…










I left a bit more patina on this one.

Luckily, after struggling to fettle the previous Auto-Set, the iron on this one just fell into place and was ready for work!










This is now the nicest Jack in my shop…second only to LN's 62, which could be the best plane in the world. IMO.


----------



## terryR

Bummer, I gave you guys the wrong date range above.
The 714 wasn't built until 1916 (Heckel, p.51)

DonW, what's the correct version of Heckel page87 with the cutter logos? I think you tried to explain it to me long ago, but I failed to write it in the book.


----------



## CFrye

Nicely done, Terry!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

I'll post a recent Sargent 714-c I did. The handle was pretty much trash but maybe useful for repair wood on a future handle needing a repair donor, and the blade iron was missing. I made a new handle and lucked out on a blade on E-Bay.


























This one will stay with me for some time before I'll let it go


----------



## donwilwol

> Bummer, I gave you guys the wrong date range above.
> The 714 wasn t built until 1916 (Heckel, p.51)
> 
> DonW, what s the correct version of Heckel page87 with the cutter logos? I think you tried to explain it to me long ago, but I failed to write it in the book.
> 
> - terryR


Just follow the dates. So if the plane was made in 1916, it'll have a type 3 cutter. If it has a type 4 cutter, the plane was made 1919-1942,


----------



## terryR

Thanks, Don.
Mine's a type3.

TurtleCarpenter, that's a great looking restore! What wood did you use for the tote?


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

I'll post a recent Sargent 714-c I did. The handle was pretty much trash but maybe useful for repair wood on a future handle needing a repair donor, and the blade iron was missing. I made a new handle and lucked out on a blade on E-Bay.











> Terry, I used Walnut, I was going to turn a matching knob but they were very close. I sanded down the knob and used 4 coats of Tung oil
> Thanks, Don.
> 
> Mine s a type3.
> 
> TurtleCarpenter, that s a great looking restore! What wood did you use for the tote?
> 
> - terryR


----------



## Gentile

From this,








To this,


----------



## DLK

Very nice. Did you have the pulley cover? I don't see it in the first picture. I need to find a good drill press.


----------



## terryR

Gentile, that came out great!


----------



## DanKrager

Wow.
.

DanK


----------



## wormil

Sweet job on that Craftsman drill press.


----------



## ToddJB

Way more pretty, way less functional. Where's the motor? 

I kid.

Looks great. Did you bearing, too? I hate doing bearings. I feel like I'm always going to mess something up.


----------



## donwilwol

Probably more of a clean up than a restoration, but this little sweety came in the mail yesterday and went right to the top of the Restoration queue.

I've wanted a 603 for a long time, and this popped up at a reasonable buy-it-now price, so I snagged it.





































And shown with the 604


----------



## terryR

Nice shavings, Don!
Love the patina on that bedrock!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

She's a real Peeler, Don, Got her thru the beauty shop Quick like !


----------



## putty

I picked up this little 8" Spear & Jackson with a couple other saws from Ebay.









It is now all cleaned up… someone had soaked the saw in oil at one point, I stripped the handle, then tried to get the oil out with oven cleaner, then oxalic acid. The oil stains were still there, so I stained it with a dark walnut stain.










I have a couple more to do, then they are off to Summerfi for a good sharpening.


----------



## planepassion

Putty, that handle has a unique look that's cool. How does the S&J cut?


----------



## putty

Brad, It needs a good sharpening, the blade is nice and straight. I don't want to mess it up, so I will be sending to Summerfi when he is done fighting fires.


----------



## terryR

Nice restore, Putty!
I like the re-finished tote; easy to spot in the till.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice restore Putty. That came out great.


----------



## putty

Thanks All,

Next up is this little Hinsdale


----------



## planepassion

Now wait a minute Putty. I don't doubt that Summerfi is a superb sharpener, but the short, 8" plate length suggests to me that this will be a dovetail saw. Is that right? If so, then you would file it rip. And that's something you may wish to try yourself. For the experience of it.


----------



## DLK

> Now wait a minute Putty. I don t doubt that Summerfi is a superb sharpener, but the short, 8" plate length suggests to me that this will be a dovetail saw. Is that right? If so, then you would file it rip. And that s something you may wish to try yourself. For the experience of it.
> 
> - Brad


Except that its is probably 16 tpi. Both Bob and Andy will say he should first try sharpening an 8 tpi saw first.


----------



## putty

That's funny Brad, I want to learn…but not on my own saws!!! I have some hand saws that I can practice on. 
Thaks for the help there Don K!


----------



## racerglen

This is what my latest #80 started as, part of a ten dollar pickup.








after some work..



















And with it's much older brother..









Unfortunately the blade is toast, way too much pitting, but we have the technology to replace that ;-)


----------



## bandit571

This "Thing" came in the mail today….









Hmmmm…









Well, lets see what the Rehab Center can do..









Sole looks a wee bit better. maybe not Unbob perfect, but will do the job…









iron was flattened on the back, bevel reground to 25*, bevel was honed to 2.5K wet&Dry paper. 









Underneath this frog, there is a Y base. There is a frog adjust bolt, a Stanley lateral lever. The lever cap is chrome plated. There USED to be ugly, soft, plastic handles…..I traded them out for wood ones.

Maybe a type 20?? Base casting was black, until someone had sprayed a coppertone paint job….got things "Back to Black". made a nice pile…









Maybe an hour or two's work…


----------



## putty

Little 10" Hinsdale back saw I picked up









Yet again when I stripped the handle it had dark oil stains that I couldn't remove. I stained it with a dark walnut stain then satin poly and wax. After I was done I realized that all of my fine toothed backsaws for dovetail work have dark handles, all of my other longer backsaws have natural apple handles.










This saw has an interesting spine, it is at an angle where it goes into the handle, the handle is milled to match










Ouch…As I look at the before and after pictures, I See That I sanded too much of the handle, I'm going to have to reshape the handle now


----------



## CFrye

Wow, Bandit and Putty! That's some transformations!


----------



## bandit571

Well, this one was a bit worse…









Ah..yeah..









Rusty & Krusty…Well after removing the bad stuff, including a spider nest…









And polishing things up a bit..









All that is left is to figure out what "type" this one is…









maybe two hours of work….


----------



## CO_Goose

Picked up this #4 earlier this summer

















Looks like a type 12 to me, however the blade appears to have the triangle Logo from the type 11, go figure.









Anyway, a couple of hours to knock the rust off with a wire wheel, scrub down the wood with a scotchbrite pad, and give it a nice coat of wax, and sharpen the blade to 25 degrees, here is how it looks with a "minimalist rehab" 

















Now I know why the Type 12's are liked so much.









This is one sweet plane.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

That's a keeper Goose ! Nice job


----------



## CO_Goose

Thanks TC. 
Fortunately whoever owned it before me took pretty good care of it, for that I am thankful.


----------



## terryR

I believe this is a Vaughan and Bushnell 905 jack plane…missing its original iron…sporting a Sargent Type1.

before










after new black paint (ooops…supposed to be grey!), and new walnut tote…










More photos here


----------



## racerglen

3-C as found for 7 dollars.

















Today

















Triple patent date, handles cleaned up, 2 coats BLO, with a rub down with Kiwi natural shoe polish (clear)


----------



## donwilwol

Nice work Glen.


----------



## mbg

Brandon - better than new!


----------



## terryR

Great work, Glen!
Jeez, $7!


----------



## ToddJB

Finished up a couple of 60 1/2s



















Here's how they showed up.










One had an untrustworthy crack so I got the brazing kit out.














































Pretty pleased with how it turned out. I have to look closely to see the fixed cap.


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent save on the #60 1/2s. They came out nice Todd.


----------



## DLK

Very nice *Todd*. Now I have to learn brazing. Did you replace the cam levers in the lever caps too. They seem to be missing in one of them in the before photos and then appears later? If so how did you do it?


----------



## DLK

Just noticed that ServiceNet a division of Stanley-Bostich is making/selling Stanley-Bailey parts. See this link to Stanley tool plane kits. Choosing one of the kits say for example
the spur kit which has always said the desired part is unavailable. *Now* has a link to ServiceNet which will say the *part is available*. Prices seem very reasonable and there are many different plane kits to chose from. (Prices do increase by about 10% from the "unavaibale link" to the "available link".) I suppose these are to fit "Modern more recent" planes, but I don't know.) Does Stanley-Bostich still use the odd thread sizes that Stanley used? Anyone brave enough to order and let us know how it works out?


----------



## daddywoofdawg

I had to order some screws/bolts for the lever cap on a couple planes, Pre-war,and They fit fine.


----------



## DLK

> I had to order some screws/bolts for the lever cap on a couple planes, Pre-war,and They fit fine.
> 
> - daddywoofdawg


Cool. Previously when I came across this site nothing I wanted was ever available, but now I see its.


----------



## Tim457

Great job Todd. What did you use to shape the brazing with, a dremel?

Don, interesting. That is indeed a decent deal on a very commonly lost part. $10.99 shipping, but if they fit, a group buy might be worth it.


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks guys.

Don, I stole a couple pieces from a scrap Craftsman plane - eccentric lever and cam.

Tim, rotozip and files


----------



## DLK

> Thanks guys.
> 
> Don, I stole a couple pieces from a scrap Craftsman plane - eccentric lever and cam.
> 
> Tim, rotozip and files
> 
> - ToddJB


O.K. I'm looking for one you see and I thought just maybe you had a way to make one.


----------



## DLK

> Great job Todd. What did you use to shape the brazing with, a dremel?
> 
> Don, interesting. That is indeed a decent deal on a very commonly lost part. $10.99 shipping, but if they fit, a group buy might be worth it.
> 
> - Tim


Even at 10.99 shipping its a good buy for the spurs as you get three pus six screws for 10.99+7.17= $18.16.
The only other place I know where to get them is nh plane parts and it will cost $7.95 for just one spur and screw.


----------



## bandit571

Came in the mail today…









Not the prettiest one in the bunch..









But, a trip through "Rehab" might have done the trick..









Made a few Sycamore shavings, too









Iron is a lot older than the plane ( 1909~) as the rest seems to be a T-13. Knob is a loaner, for now. Looks better than a spool…


----------



## terryR

^Much better!
Cannot see it getting much use with that spool as a knob?
Amazing what some folks think up?


----------



## ToddJB




----------



## donwilwol

What a difference Todd!


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks Don, the belt sander had to come out for this one. The sole was all sorts of warped and pimpled. Even now the front right of the toe and back left of the heel still aren't perfectly flat, but I was nervous to take it any further than what I had already done.


----------



## Slyy

Sweet job on all the block planes there Todd. Got any shots of the before/after sole?

Yeah bandit, thoughts similar to Terry in that I find it amazing what fixes people come up with. Antique store hunting alone has provided me with a lot of various "repair techniques".


----------



## donwilwol

> Thanks Don, the belt sander had to come out for this one. The sole was all sorts of warped and pimpled. Even now the front right of the toe and back left of the heel still aren t perfectly flat, but I was nervous to take it any further than what I had already done.
> 
> - ToddJB


I use the belt sander a lot. I now need to learn to use the mill!


----------



## Brit

Todd - That 140 is gorgeous. I missed a nice one on ebay a little while ago. Added it to my watch list and then forgot to bid on the damn thing. Wish I had £1 for every time I've done that.


----------



## ToddJB

Thank Andy. This one came to me as way of a trade. And I've lost many a good deal to the same forgiveness.

Jake, I don't believe I have any befores of the sole but I go grab one of the after.


----------



## ToddJB




----------



## terryR

Sweet looking plane, Todd!


----------



## Mambrax

I have question : i run across a Stanley No4 marked "K". Could someone enlighten me on the significance ? 
Thanks,


----------



## grfrazee

Bought this Stanley spokeshave at an antique store a while back. I've had it sitting in a solution of 1 part molasses and 9 parts water for a couple weeks. Heard about it on Stack Exchange and decided to give it a try. After derusting, I cleaned it up with a wire wheel a bit and added a few coats of black enamel.

*Anyone know the exact model number for this one?* My usual searches haven't turned up anything definitive.


----------



## Mambrax

very cool !


----------



## TheFridge

151 I think?


----------



## MNclone

> I have question : i run across a Stanley No4 marked "K". Could someone enlighten me on the significance ?
> Thanks,
> 
> - Mambrax


Could be wrong here, but Stanley made planes for Keen Kutter labeled K4, etc. They are an older style bedrock design. I find them to be excellent user planes that can be had for a fraction of bedrock prices.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

Is the third picture what it looked like after it came out? Always wondered if that would work


----------



## Tim457

I'm no expert grfrazee, but it looks like an earlier 52 to me because it has the depression down the middle of the handles instead of the checkering. Great restore.
http://peterrobinson.galootcentral.com/spokeshaves/#Stanley-52-shave


----------



## DonBroussard

Todd/Glen-Nice restores on those two vintage tools. No idea on the spokeshave, Glen.


----------



## ToddJB

It's not a 151, but that's all I know, grfrazee


----------



## Handtooler

I thought the #151 had two attaching holes/points through the blade? It's quiet like the # 80 scraper, but a spoke shave.


----------



## terryR

Nice restore, Glen.
Maybe the experts can help with ID on the Spokeshave Thread?


----------



## grfrazee

@daddywolfdawg - No, it was pretty much bare iron after I removed it from the molasses bath. Almost no finish was left when I bought it. The third picture is after spraying with black enamel.

@Tim - I took a look at that site last night when I was trying to identify the spokeshave. I'm thinking it's either a Bailey 1 or Bailey 2 since the note below Bailey 1 says that it became the #51, and the lack of markings (and logo on the iron) make me think it's a pretty early model.

@terryR - I'll do that. Forgot that thread existed.

@others - thanks for the compliments!


----------



## racerglen

Oh YAH !








After months of de rusting, snapped tote bolt, seized screws frozen bits and pieces..and danged if I can find the original pictures
..









My type 3 roundy rock is DONE.








It also came without a tote and a broken base for the front knob, a score on a very nice 5-C provided the rosewood tote (already had one no thought as yet as to the face of the 5-c, The replacement knob's off my 605 and a half flat top, need to make a tall one yet )


----------



## JayT

Well done, Glen. Gotta love the Roundy 'Rocks.


----------



## Slyy

By the sound of the work you did Todd I can imagine what that sole looked like before. Thanks for the pic.

So have several pitted projects, including a 3/8" mortise chisel that needs a lot of work. Wasn't looking forward to lots of sanding time, but picked up a free 6" disc/1" belt sander. Not sure it'd work very well for plane soles but maybe good for smaller items like chisels.

Glen that roundy's got some nice looks!


----------



## racerglen

Thanks guys, I know I said "done" but as I mentioned on the front knob that's yet to be finalized, do have the original and it's rod and brass top as well as some fine tuning on the chip breaker. Sheesh, both roundy and the 3-C I did a couple weeks ago have been a wee bit piggish on that part.


----------



## terryR

Nice looking jointer, Glen! Lots of work to get it back!

Love the shots showing your bench top.
The old tools love you.


----------



## racerglen

Thanks Terry, maybe now the drag racing seasons over I can get caught up on some of this stuff ;-)


----------



## jordanp

Has anybody started a Hand tool Trading thread yet? I've traded with a your LJ'ers in the past but i have a few pieces i could part with and a few that i am looking for..


----------



## JayT

Jordan, just start a thread in the Woodworking Trade & Swap forum. That's all I've ever done selling hand tools on LJ.


----------



## Slyy

Not exactly a woodworking tool but put to use in the shop all the same! Before doesn't quite do justice to the filthiness

Before 









After









Think the switch connection is loose as it doesn't always come on, but blade is pressed in and "guard" is welded so not sure if I can actually address that issue.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

So what's the best/most effective method to clean this up?I some-one told me WD-40 and a toothbrush,I'll try it but have little faith this will do much,so better ideas?


----------



## donwilwol

What exactly do you mean by "clean". Wd-40 and a toothbrush will clean it. If you want to derust it, then I'd stuck it in some evapo-rust or citric acid.


----------



## donwilwol

I was looking through my broken plane pile for some inspiration. I came across a #5 with some issues.










I set it on the bench for a better look. There has to be a way to save it. A little comparison to a #604, and away we go.










A way to use the original thread even though I haven't sprung for a tap and die yet.









































































I decided to leave it sandblasted and clear coated. I like the greyish "gunmetal" look"


----------



## racerglen

Pretty darn sneaky, great was to use up those bits and get a sweet plane AND get the extra "seat" time on the milling machine. I'd say that's really working out for you Don !


----------



## terryR

Looks pretty cool, Don. very unique!

Do you also have a slit cutter for your new mill? Just trying to think of an easy way to repair daddywolf's tote. Otherwise, I would use 2 wooden scales and a thin spacer to match the thickness of the plane's steel handle boss.


----------



## grfrazee

@Slyy - my wife and I got one of those fans from her grandmother's estate a few months ago! I'm always pleasantly surprised (and frankly amazed) at how well those old household gadgets work.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Who says the base has to be painted black ? I became a rebel when I got my first 20" Huffy second hand.!


----------



## ToddJB

Awesome, Don. Great save


----------



## daddywoofdawg

> What exactly do you mean by "clean". Wd-40 and a toothbrush will clean it. If you want to derust it, then I d stuck it in some evapo-rust or citric acid.
> 
> - Don W


Knock the gunk and dirt off,I think there is plating under there and don't want to damage the plating till I know if it's toast or not.Does evapo-rust effect plating? I have some, But I've just used it on japanned planes.My goal if possible is to make it pretty again.The pictures don't show the gunk and dirt on it well.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Here is my second go at a transitional, this one hasn't seen a lot of wear in the past but I thought I would play with the finishes to see what I liked. This is 3 coats of Tung Oil the wood, and the metal got some VHT love in a black pearl which looks more on a charcoal grey cast iron look, then baked in the oven.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Another Stanley that turned out to be a Miller Falls 56. $4 no holler.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Here is my favorite before and after and it took me only 15 minutes. 








Love the Patina !


----------



## terryR

Great job on that 3409! I like the color!
The MF looks like a different plane. 
...cravin' an english muffin now…


----------



## jobewan

Guys - I would love to get into shopping yard sales and flea markets for planes. The fascination of my father's one old fore plane that I took apart and put back together a thousand times when I was a kid has never left me. I absolutely love planes. Its a bit disturbing actually - in my younger days I would have been paying a lot of attention to the fairer sex, but I find in my dotage I am far more interested in rusty planes than I am anything else. What has happened to me? I have a few that I have bought, but I am at a loss for how to clean them up to any accomplished degree. Nothing like what you guys have been able to achieve. Can you tell me how you took these rusted, pitted, gunked up old pieces and brought them so strongly back.

Second question - after you have restored these projects, are you actually using them? Are you guys collectors for your shop, or are you collectors for display? I don't care either way, but I have a 41/2 Lie Nielson that I use regularly, and a couple of older Bedrock or Bailey 4's that I have just sitting there. What do you do after you put all this work into them?

Thanks gentlemen (and ladies if there are any of you contributing - I hope there are). This is really one of my first posts, so I am psyched to be here.

Joe


----------



## johnstoneb

daddywoofdawg
Evaporust will not affect the plating unless there is rust under it and then it is coming off whether you use evaporust or a toothbrush.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

@Jobewan, Stop ! And walk away while you can still see straight and aren't itching. I used to look at pretty girls, then it was a good sweetpotato that worked me up, now I have had to seek therapy for plane-idis. Benadryl and Prozac aren't helping.


----------



## bandit571

I use most of what I restore. Some get sold to afford to buy more…

There is an ad in the paper tonight….tomorrow morning I hit the road. Two of my favourite words are in the ad

BARN SALE!!!!! ( Lots of power tools) I plan to get there right at opening bell….

As for what I do with these tools I restore..









When the Boss wants an enclosed end table, with a door, all I need is some White Oak..


----------



## Tim457

Turtle that 8409 turned out awesome. What's VHT, and finally, how did you turn an egg into sliced tomatoes? 

Joe, everything you need is here:
http://www.timetestedtools.com/how-to---bench-plane-restoration.html
http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/series/3983



> When the Boss wants an enclosed end table, with a door, all I need is some White Oak..
> - bandit571


With hand raised panels no less.

I use what I restore as well. I've been learning restoring tips from the guys on here and every plane and chisel I have is a restored vintage plane. Some here collect but I think almost everyone that participates here uses them too.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

@Tim VHT is a brand of high temp engine paint you find at your local auto parts store that is baked on. I used it on a set of valve covers and thought I would see how it looked against the 3409 wood finish. The color is black pearl and it has a pretty low sheen. As for the tomato,!,,,,,,,


----------



## TheFridge

Joebewan, evaporust, citric acid, electrolysis or whatever you choose combined with a wire wheels will do almost everything you need. You'd be surprised how for gone it would have to be, to be considered unusable.


----------



## chrisstef

Yoda - youre on some other level right now man. That new toy is opening up all kinds of crazy jedi tricks for you.

Lol jobewan. If youve got a significant other start working up some brownie points. Its a looong road ahead for ya.


----------



## donwilwol

> What exactly do you mean by "clean". Wd-40 and a toothbrush will clean it. If you want to derust it, then I d stuck it in some evapo-rust or citric acid.
> 
> - Don W
> 
> Knock the gunk and dirt off,I think there is plating under there and don t want to damage the plating till I know if it s toast or not.Does evapo-rust effect plating? I have some, But I ve just used it on japanned planes.My goal if possible is to make it pretty again.The pictures don t show the gunk and dirt on it well.
> 
> - daddywoofdawg


Keep in mind the plating is on a tool meant to be worked. Its not delicate. As a matter of fact, removing it, should the decision be made to do so, is quit some undertaking. You can sand blast that sucker (although not recommended) and it still would be solid.


----------



## donwilwol

More Pictures are here.

This is a Brass Badged Sargent Made Craftsman #414C. I don't normally restore Craftsman planes anymore. Not because they are not great users, they are, but because they usually have a low resale value. I don't really know the value of this Brass Badged Sargent Made Craftsman #414C, its probably not extremely valuable, but it fits into my Sargent collection nicely.

Before









After


----------



## racerglen

Thought I warned you about that tool porn.. Dam that's nice !


----------



## bandit571

$2 rust bucket..









Might be something good under the rust?









Soooo…..









Appears to be a Stanley No. 4…Type 13?









Even has a SW iron, and the correct knob. 









Sole did take a bit of work, though..









Will give it a test drive, later…


----------



## bandit571

Not too bad, once I got the iron sharpened up, and the edge square to the sides..









A little candle wax on the sole, and away we go…









Might just be worth that $2?









Maybe…


----------



## racerglen

My attempt..at tool porn..4 bucks



















It's a Spear and Jackson 8" dovetail saw, 2 and a half inch plate, a #46, "non break handle" Thanks to Bob Summerfi 
for giving me a link to an earlier post with one of these, great help in doing the pressed in logo .


















There's the "money" shots WITHOUT sharpening, tho it could use a we tooth touchup..








Unfortunately the pitting precludes going any further on the plate, but I'm happy..








That's two coats BLO on the tote and up to 600 grit on the plate,much more and it might have been a razor blade ..lol..


----------



## BoardCop

Millers falls looks great!!!
I'm way behind! 
Don that craftsman turned out very nice!
The Stanley looks great!


----------



## terryR

Some nice looking restores, gents.

Don, what are using for finish on wood? Looks fabulous!


----------



## Mambrax

very nice. Just starting on saw restoration myself. nice work !!!


----------



## Brit

Don you are the king of restorations. No question about it.

Bandit your output is inspiring. I don't know where you find the time.

Glen you did a fine job on that S&J.


----------



## TheFridge

The #5 at the bottom.










And after a bit of work.



























2 patent dates and frog adjustment. 2 dates means type nine but I thought frog adjustment was added on type 10s. With a type 10iron? Is this right?


----------



## JayT

Looks great, Fridge. Two patent dates are on both type 9 and 10, so with the frog adjustment you have a 10.


----------



## TheFridge

Thanks


----------



## donwilwol

Glen, I love the s&jj

Terry, its spray laquer.

Nice type 10 fridge.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Spits tobacco, Tips Hat, all four are Top Notch.!!


Code:


Fridge, is that an asphaltum finish? Is that a new handle or did you whoop one up !?<br />

 Don,, those gold badges are like seeing a Fox cross the road Skipping rope!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Too many options on this one. Find a new base. Sell parts and make sanding block. Make a Chisel plane. .?!


----------



## TheFridge

Thanks Turt, no it's Duplicolor engine enamel Ford semi gloss black. Gonna try gloss next time.

It's the same knob and tote. Just used a piece of cocobolo with a good grain match to fix the horn. You can see it if you know what you are looking for.


----------



## Timbo

A quick clean up of a No. 95, a handy one to have around.


----------



## JayT

Nice, Tim. A 95 is very high on my wish list, though I will probably end up with a new LN instead of a vintage one.


----------



## terryR

Nice work, Tim!


----------



## Brit

Awesome Tim. Looks to be in pretty good condition.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

I would sure like to read a blog on the cleaning and making shiney a plane.I seen alot on the de-rusting but haven't seen one on the cleaning them up and making the shiney again like you see here. Hint hint anybody.


----------



## TheFridge

Personally, I may touch up the sole with some 320. For shiny nuts and bolts I put them in a cordless drill and a piece of 320,600,1500 and a strop to shine them up. Everything else is just derusted and wire wheeled. Every part is waxed. Holes get a shot of WD40.


----------



## bandit571

I thought I had one…...


----------



## Timbo

Thanks! It helps to have a plane with good jappaning/paint .

Here is a quick video of how I de-rust using boeshield rust free, love the stuff.


----------



## Slyy

My first 12" try-square, garage doesn't take the best pics without sunlight for the after.









Pitting was pretty bad on the reverse and was worried I'd sand away the graduations so kept it with a bit more patina, still think it looks pretty nice








Don't know who AJ Brown was, but hope he doesn't mind me using his square, fella also seemed proud of his stamp, has his name on there at least 5 times.


----------



## summerfi

That's a nice square Jake. Does it have a maker's name? Good job on the cleanup.


----------



## Slyy

Looked it over Bob, the graduations are still pretty good but no makers mark of any kind. Seems odd that out of all tools it seems there are so many unmarked trysquares.


----------



## Mambrax

Nice, very cool looking !
Got a full set (the 3 sizes) of those last month at the flea market, I really need to get started on those !


> My first 12" try-square, garage doesn t take the best pics without sunlight for the after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pitting was pretty bad on the reverse and was worried I d sand away the graduations so kept it with a bit more patina, still think it looks pretty nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don t know who AJ Brown was, but hope he doesn t mind me using his square, fella also seemed proud of his stamp, has his name on there at least 5 times.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Slyy


----------



## bscalled

I know, more sanding still to do. But to those who have done this before, what's the best way to make that hole in the top of the handle? It looks a little past midway so I don't think the center point of a Forstner bit would have anywhere to bite into. I'm thinking I'll just carve it out, but maybe there's a better way.


----------



## DanKrager

bscalled, just FYI, Forstner bits are primarily rim guided and because of that they can cut almost any part of a circle on the edge of a piece of wood. One just has to be very, very careful if the bit is in a hand held motor. Pressure on the sharp part of the rim before turning the motor on will score a curved "knife wall" for the rim to follow. At very slow (as in barely moving) rpm one can start the cut.

If that is too risky for your tastes, drill the right sized hole in a piece and temporarily glue (hot glue?) it in place over the desired location and use that to help guide the bit start.

Good luck.
DanK


----------



## JayT

Forstner bit and drill press. Clamp the tote to something to get the angle-I use my drill press table fence, but a piece of scrap 2×4 would work fine.


----------



## bscalled

Thanks to both of you! I'll combine a drill press with Dan's guide hole idea-the guideless hand held drill does sound risky! Maybe not after you've done a few, but I haven't.


----------



## donwilwol

A dremel tool would work as well. It takes a little more finesse.


----------



## Brit

I would just hold it in my hand and use a round needle file or small rats tail rasp. It would only take a minute to get that hole back


----------



## bandit571

Auction today….









Sole wasn't too bad, though..









Iron is stamped Capewell, too. Looked like the slot in the chipbreaker had been "adjusted" with a welder…no backlash now. No pits, no cracks, got all clean and shiny..









And made some decent shavings…









Not too bad for $4?


----------



## planepassion

I always drill the through hole before I remove any material from, or shape, the blank. That way if there's tearout, I don't care because it will be removed in the finishing process.


----------



## bscalled

I ended up taping a guide to the handle and using a hand drill; I could go slowly enough. Worked great. I didn't clean up the rest of plane much, except to remove some rust. Will do a bit more on the blade. I debated blending in the horn color with the handle but I kind of like the stripes so left it-the original blank is half sapwood, and an old break runs along the color change.


----------



## Mambrax

fantastic ! Love it !


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Fine bit of Surgery on that handle.


----------



## CO_Goose

Found this poor forlorn putty knife at a garage sale.










It looked pretty nice with the full tang and brass rivets, and since the day's pickings were slim, I picked it up. About 30 minutes later with some sanding of the blade and handle, and several generous applications of linseed oil, this is what came out:



















Almost too pretty to use, well almost.
Mike


----------



## putty

Putty knives are underrated, that is a nice one Goose.


----------



## Mambrax

Anybody known where to find 10-28 nut ? I need one for restoration project of a Stanley saw set. 
Thanks,


----------



## DLK

Oddly googleing it is is easier to find a 10-28 tap or a 10-28 screw them a 10-28 nut.


----------



## Mambrax

Well crossed my mind but I literally go 0 useable return !!!


----------



## terryR

bs, nice job on the tote repair!

Mike, love the putty knife. Awesome score for $1.


----------



## TheFridge

d


----------



## Buckethead

> Putty knives are underrated, that is a nice one Goose.
> 
> - putty


Quote of the day.


----------



## terryR

A new pecan handle and SS pins for a vintage putty knife, headed to an LJ buddy for trade…


----------



## groyuti

[No message]


----------



## Slyy

Some Disston D-8 love.

Before:









And after


















More than 4 hours running the plate through various sandpapers. Much more pitted than I initially thought and couldn't do much in the way of saving the etch. The handle was in very good shape though and was certainly hiding a lot of beautiful Apple grain under the 100+ years of gunk.
More shine to ththe plate would be nice but as deep as some of the pitting is, don't think my shoulders have another 5+ hours in them to even put a dent in it.


----------



## CFrye

Wow, Jake. That handle cleaned up great! Nice job on the brass and plate, too.


----------



## donwilwol

Looks like a good user Jake. Nice job.


----------



## terryR

Fantastic work, Jake!
What a great looking tote!
And that plate still has 100 years of use in it…all that pitting looks better to me than a brand new Husky 'saw'!
LOL!


----------



## Slyy

Thanks y'all. Yeah I thought this handle in particular cleaned up very nicely. Just the usual Denatured Alcohol cleanup then Natural Danish oil and Paste wax to finish. Didn't have 8 rip so gonna sharpen her up this afternoon and see how she works.


----------



## JayT

Great job on the D-8, Jake. Should make a good user for you.

I got a couple more user tools for the shop done. Nothing major, just clean-up/tune-up jobs

type 4 607C now sporting a walnut knob and tote. All my users have the totes replaced. The original Stanleys are just too narrow for comfort, so I make them a bit wider with a slightly shorter horn. If the wood is in good shape, I'll keep the original pieces, just in case, but use them with the replacements.

Japanning on this one was ~90%, so all I had to do was clean it up and remove the ubiquitous paint drips.

Before










After









And a 1920's Disston No 12. Was already sharp (8ppi rip) just needed a little love. Like the plane, the handle had about three colors of paint drips that were removed with careful use of a tiny card scraper and steel wool. Then, like Jake, added a coat of natural Danish oil and wax to be ready to use. Cuts like a dream.










After


----------



## CFrye

Wow, JayT! Etches are hard to photograph that well. Outstanding!


----------



## JayT

Thanks, Candy. Didn't even have to retouch that one, just carefully sanded off the top layer of grime and light rust with some 600 grit sandpaper and 3in1 oil.


----------



## terryR

Nice, Jay!
Love that 12 with etch!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

There must have been paint Splaterin Fairies back in the old days. I don't understand how Every old tool has paint splatter,!? It's like 90% of them.


----------



## Tim457

> Thanks y all. Yeah I thought this handle in particular cleaned up very nicely. Just the usual Denatured Alcohol cleanup then Natural Danish oil and Paste wax to finish. Didn t have 8 rip so gonna sharpen her up this afternoon and see how she works.
> 
> - Slyy


That handle is dead sexy, nice job. And are you saying you didn't sand or scrape it a bit? Just cleaned and added the finish?


----------



## Slyy

Tim, yes. I will scrub with green pads and 0000 with the DA. This usually gets almost all the gunk off, not saying I haven't sanded some handles but I usually try not too, plus I do like some of the wear to remain, after all these are 100 years old not brand new (I will use epoxy to fix bad cracks and splits if found). I found that for the finish, rubbing a healthy soaked rag with the Danish oil first, then doing a vigorous hand rubbing brings out more of the grain as well.

Also, if the handle is one of those that has been sitting in motor oil or whatever they do to these things, I'll usually put those in a ziplock bag with DA and let it soak and pull out the oil staining. If you do this though it'll really dry out the wood and it requires much more Danish oil to make it happy again.


----------



## racerglen

Pictures wong way, order pooped..Ulmia smoother, $12.50 at a garage sale 

















missing the shots (detailed) of what I found when I opened it up..









The adjuster for the movable throat was rusted solid into the threaded insert, the moving throat was split and broken, it took needle nose vice grips and penetrating oil to free up from the insert, then c/a glue to fix the splits and epoxy to re seat the insert after evaporust.








Initaly the throat was too small to even get the blade to peek out, but some fine tuning prevailed.










And thanks to a site on Disston backsaws….








The picture does not do it justice, but the site said what looks like bluing on some saws spines is actually linseed oil that's been heated. Thought I'd give it a try as the adjuster had been blued until the evaporust and I think it's a viable alternative, even if it was WD-40 heated up with a butane torch.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice Glen! I bought one of those still in the box. They work so nice.


----------



## racerglen

Thanks Don, this one was an unanticipated challenge, still could use some cleanup on the edges and a tad of BLO, one thing I've found is the tote,heel whatever on these guys must be smoothed out at the edges or they're murder on the hand.


----------



## Slyy

JayT those both looks AWESOME!

Glen, the smoother turned out great, I should oughta try that linseed oil trick.

Semi parallel posting here:

It's amazing what you can get done when this semester isn't sucking the life outa you:
Pitted plate still, but definitely one of my better ones a 1897-1900 No. 4 based on medallion and spine stamp.
Before:








After:


----------



## theoldfart

Nice bit of work Jake.


----------



## Brit

Good work on that Ulmia smoother Glenn. I've never tried one of those but they look so cool.

Jake the saw is awesome. It is amazing how good that came out.


----------



## ToddJB

Biggest lesson I learned from this restoration is levels are really hard to photograph.

Stanley 30 Adjustable Level





































The main vial is still intact but the two fronts were missing. Need to find clear (not yellow/green filled) replacments. Any ideas?


----------



## terryR

Jake, awesome restore!

Looks great Todd, love me some brass and rosewood, mahogany?

Todd, and any others, vials on eBay for vintage levels.


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks Terry. And I'm not sure what the wood is.


----------



## racerglen

I have a few of these Stanley levels in a couple of lengths, one has stamped in the wood in gold letters, "Genuine Cherry, best wood for levels "


----------



## CL810

Todd, vials are next to impossible to find but I did track down a source on eBay. I bought a clear vial from *Ifeehery1956* on eBay. He's a nice guy to do business with - went out of his way to get me a 3-1/4" vial.

Edit: he does not have any vials listed right so just send him a message directly and tell him what you're looking for.


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks Andy. That's beautiful too. Who made that one?

Also, I looks like your one is adjustable. Was the vial imbedded in a clay like material? If so what did you replace it with?


----------



## CL810

It was made by Stanley Rule & Level. It doesn't have a model number on it but based on the engraving I would say it was purchased in 1882.










In the pic you can see how the vial adjusting works. I messaged with the aforementioned Ifeehery1956 about what the vial was imbedded in. He was never able to come up with anything like what was used originally. He uses DAP window caulking so I used it as well. A little bit of it goes a long way. You can see in the second photo how far it spread on the bottom.


----------



## Mambrax

that's really cool. Sweet !


----------



## bandit571

It came in the mail box yesterday, in a baggie..









After cutting away all the bags..









Hmm, time for the Rehab Center??









I did replace that plastic thing with a real metal wheel..









Sole was flattened, frog needed a LOT of work..









Iron and chipbreaker seem to work decently against White Oak…









Stanley Made in England #4…..Looks a little better now?


----------



## terryR

beautiful level, Andy!
Love the 1882 inscription; priceless!

searching for vials…I bought a small box full years ago…
still happy to trade for one or 2.


----------



## CL810

Where did you find the vials Terry?


----------



## terryR

Andy, I bought them long ago from eBay, but under an old username…so no records.
Still searching.

Found a FB group called 'Vintage Vials'...may be a good resource?


----------



## terryR

Found them! glass vials with the old style black lines.

http://stores.ebay.com/kdultra-industrial-surplus?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Vintage Horological & Other Stuff

(search for wooden level replacement vials)


----------



## Slyy

Hawt dang Terry. Thanks for digging out that link. The Stanley I have has a similar adjustment mechanism for the middle vile Andy, neat tools and yours is exceptionally so with the added permanent history.


----------



## CL810

Regarding the screws on these levels. I always assumed the originals were brass plated and the brass plating had come off revealing the steel. Or were they originally steel?

I bought some plated screws once and when I was "aging" them by exposing them to amonia vapors I removed the entire brass plating. Easy to do, just come in the house to grab a beer and get distracted by a Bball game.


----------



## ToddJB

I'm pretty confident mine were not brass, Andy.


----------



## donwilwol

I started a similar project this morning










And this showed up in the mail! Coincidence?


----------



## CL810

I think not!


----------



## Brit

Love me a nice level. Good work chaps.


----------



## chrisstef

Makes me wanna refurb my grandfathers old levels i have. Good work gals.


----------



## Mambrax

A Stanley No.28 behind repair. Had to redo. All walnut. Turned out OK, except the tote.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Very Nice Mambrax, Nothing like the feel of a new Shoes


----------



## donwilwol

I like the walnut #28!!


----------



## grfrazee

I've been working on the new haft for this 1-3/4 lb axe off and on for a few weekends and finally finished it yesterday. Handle is osage orange. *Does anyone recognize the maker's mark on the axe?*



















Picture with it's little brother:


----------



## Brit

No idea of the maker unfortunately, but that is a very nice re-hang.


----------



## bandit571

Well, this thing arrived today, via the Indianna Pony Express









Box was big enough to hold almost six of them….but, after a little bit of clean up…









There is a Craftsman No. 3C sitting on a plank of white oak, making some shavings,,,has a label on the rear handle, too









Craftsman Tools onthe label. Lever Cap has…Gold?









Sole was pit free, barely any rust, and is a smooth sole…









Otherwise, it is a dead ringer for the Millers Falls No. 8..









Might be worth the under $9 I spent on it?


----------



## racerglen

Not a restoration, rather an attempt at preservation.
When I got my latest #45 it included this set of cutters with the original label flaking off along the bottom, some pieces were in the bottom of the main box.








I lined stuff up, had thought Shelac might work to stick the small bits back to be followed by an overcoat but that didn't work. At this point I'm waiting for tiny bits of white glue to dry..









There is a light coat of Shelac in the upper right corner, think it's going to work just fine.


----------



## donwilwol

Keep us posted Glen.


----------



## racerglen

So here's the finished product, pictures as usual from me, do not show what I want but I think it's worked !








The Shelac brought back some of the faded background color, I chose to not try any cleaning of the label for fear of damaging the fragile 100 plus year old paper instead just brushing off surface dust etc with a soft brush.








Also didn't Shelac the box itself, keeping it on the paper.


----------



## terryR

Looks good, Glen! An old Type?

My 45 cutters are in a similar box; I wasn't sure how to protect the fragile labels, so put them on a shelf and made new boxes. I still want some re-pro labels for my boxes, but lack of printer makes it a dream.


----------



## Trakem2

Here are some before and after pics of a Stanley No. 34 I recently acquired. I removed all the metal parts and gave them a Evaporust bath to remove all the rust. I then flattened the bottom on my Grizzly jointer, which only took one very light pass to true up, and sanded the sides and top lightly to remove the (*Always Present on Old Tools*) paint splatters. After repairing the tote and sanding the knob, I gave all the wooden parts a coat of Varathane Golden Mahogany stain and Minwax Paste wax. I have a NOS blade on order to replace the original Stanley Sweethart blade that is all but used up. Can't wait to put it to use!


----------



## JayT

Nicely done, Trakem. #34's have been known to cause riots around here. That one looks in good shape.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

> So here s the finished product, pictures as usual from me, do not show what I want but I think it s worked !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Shelac brought back some of the faded background color, I chose to not try any cleaning of the label for fear of damaging the fragile 100 plus year old paper instead just brushing off surface dust etc with a soft brush.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also didn t Shelac the box itself, keeping it on the paper.
> 
> - racerglen


Wonder how old those are,I have only seen the green background labels.


----------



## racerglen

Daddy, it is a green background,quite light even after the Shelac, just faded


----------



## Tim457

Nice job on that horn fix, Randy. That joint line looks perfect. What method did you use?


----------



## Trakem2

Tim, I just used a block plane to level off the broken portion and then glued on a maple scrap. After the glue dried just traced the outline on and started shaping with rasps and sandpaper.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice Job on the #34. They are some hunk of beech.

Glen that's a good process to know. Nice execution.


----------



## woodcut

This sad little 4C showed up at my door Saturday morning, complete with electrical tape, spider webs, rust, and grime…
































A quick disassemble revealed a clean break of the tote, no cracks in the casting, and a reasonably flat sole. I was lucky!
















The rosewood tote and knob got a chemical strip, sanding, and shellac.
















Glued the tote with hide glue, which was a mistake as it allowed the break to 'creep' slightly the following day after reassembly. I'll try again with tinted epoxy.
All non-brass metal parts were cleaned and de-rusted with electrolysis, brass parts polished with a Dremel .









Japanning is about 70%, I will try the engine enamel in the near future.
The sole and blade need a little more work, but overall,I thought it turned out very well and made for a very enjoyable weekend !!
Thanks for looking!


----------



## theoldfart

Looks good to me.


----------



## MNclone

Very nice


----------



## donwilwol

The #4c looks good.


----------



## Tim457

Nice job on that. The before pictures really show the contrast well.


----------



## houblon

Finally found a No12 at the flea market. This was a challenge.




























After evaporust, sanding, paint and more sanding:





































Now I need to get a blade. I don't want to pay 7 times the price of the plane for a Hock blade.
Would the Veritas scraping plane blade fit the No12? Or can I cut down a saw blade? What is the thickness of the original Stanley blade?


----------



## JayT

Nice job on the #12. I got a blade for mine from TGIAG It's a little thinner than a stock blade, but works great and you can't beat the price. Cutting down a saw plate should work fine, too.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice save on the #12. I'm not sure I've seen the logo on the brass knob before. That's sweet. I have to pay attention to that.

I agree with JayT. Saw blade should work and I have Veritas blade in a #12.


----------



## upchuck

> Now I need to get a blade. I don t want to pay 7 times the price of the plane for a Hock blade.
> Would the Veritas scraping plane blade fit the No12? *Or can I cut down a saw blade? *What is the thickness of the original Stanley blade?
> 
> - houblon


Yes you can cut down a saw blade. With hand saw blades think about what part of the hand saw blade you use. Some are taper ground and I think that having the edge a uniform thickness is worth the trouble of planning ahead. I have also cut scraper blades out of circular saw blades. Here too it pays to think about the taper ground of the donor blade. I bought my #12 without a blade so I can't measure what was the original stock blade. But between hand saw blades and a circular saw blade I think I've produced blades on the thick and thin side of what was stock. My home made blades are very different from each other and feel different in use.


----------



## houblon

upchuck: what do you use to cut a saw blade?


----------



## houblon

Here is a Sargent VBM 3411 transitional:



















After:










Family shot with 3408 and 3416


----------



## donwilwol

The Sargents look great!!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Trrannsitionals are my weakness, I stutterr when I see them,.!


----------



## Mambrax

nice job on the sargent !


----------



## upchuck

> upchuck: what do you use to cut a saw blade?
> 
> - houblon


houblon-
The only tool I have ever used to cut both hand saw and circular saw blades was a hack saw and then a file to clean up the cut edges. Then it's just a matter of preparing the faces and edges of your new scraper blades. I have heard of others who have used a dremel with cut off wheels to do the same.
Good luck.
chuck


----------



## terryR

yep, a Dremel works great, but will probably overheat the steel, unless you can cut it underwater.

Option No.3…a new blade from terryR. Building up stock now, but I'm able to shape new blades for scrapers, planes, and spokeshaves. O1steel. Heat treated, of course.

Bad news is, my prices are only slightly lower than Mr.Hock's. It's a ton of work shaping steel with hand tools and sandpaper. But, I accept trades!


----------



## lateralus819

Terry- Are you taking orders for those lovely knives yet?


----------



## terryR

yessir! 

shaped 2more thin DT blades this weekend…Stabilized Red Palm for this handle. Already spoken for…










I need time to get organized and post a few photos for your enjoyment. Marking knives, plane irons, etc…


----------



## DLK

So *terryR* do you buy your red palm from Bellforest wood products. They are just 1.5 hour drive from me. Fun to pick through their (2$/lb) scrap bin.


----------



## terryR

Don, I've never bought from them, but probably will one o these days! Very cool to have such a reputable lumber source near you!!! I got that piece off fleaBay years ago; about to start my own stabilizing process on some burls, though.

BTW, hope you like the Red Palm!


----------



## DLK

^ I'm sure I will.


----------



## putty

Terry, I would like to see pics of your stabilization process…. I have some punky ambrosia maple from a neighbors tree that will need to be stabilized after it dries.


----------



## terryR

Sorry, Putty, I'm still gathering supplies. Need a spray paint pressure pot, and I'm ready to start saving money.

Simply, my set up will have UHMW plastic molds 2×2x6", into which I'll place wood and Alumilite resin. Then into the pressure pot overnight to cure.

Will have photos to share soon…I hope!


----------



## bandit571

Opened a mailing package the other day, and found this inside..









22" long! I had to add the rear handle, as the OEM is missing. Sole was a bit rusty, too









Seat for the frog?









So, it took awhile to clean and tune this Stanley No.7c, type 8/9 up to be presentable for "Polite Company"..









Sole is now free of rust, and it was even flat!









Front end, aka bow of this Battleship









Sides are cleaned, iron and chipbreaker tuned up. Handle is a spare I had, will be looking for a better one. Wood shavings are from a WhiteOak plank. This plane is just a hair longer than the No.6c I have..









And a few years older the the type 10, No.6c The plane till needed to be rearranged a bit…









Just a bit….

Cost of this new plane? $22.54 counting shipping.


----------



## donwilwol

A recent 605 1/2 and I actually remembered before pictures.










,..........


----------



## theoldfart

Came out well Don.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

wood cut:when de-rusted with electrolysis,Is that just galvanized, everyday sheet metal your using on the positive?


----------



## DanKrager

I hope not, Daddy. Galvanized produces a toxic gas when so used and is HIGHLY recommended not to do that. I'm not a chemist, just regurgitating some research I remember about electrolysis.

DanK


----------



## MNclone

> wood cut:when de-rusted with electrolysis,Is that just galvanized, everyday sheet metal your using on the positive?
> 
> - daddywoofdawg


I use re rod.


----------



## DanKrager

I use an old 3/8" chain that got stretched into a rod before it broke. I'm using the part that still flexes and can wrap around the container perimeter. Have to be careful about continuity….
DanK


----------



## Bundoman

I use a sheet of perforated steel for an electrode. Have also used rebar quite a bit.


----------



## HokieKen

I love looking at this thread. I finally remembered before pictures on my most recent restoration so I can contribute. So, here's my Millers Falls #2 eggbeater drill. I still need to turn a side knob for it to complete the restoration but that may be one of those things I never get around to. It's already in service and works like a champ.


----------



## terryR

Wow, Don, that flat top looks fabulous! Love what you're doing to vintage wood lately…

Nice work, Kenny. Very clean!


----------



## summerfi

Has anyone ever tried putting new scales on a perfect handle screwdriver? This one isn't perfect, but it's OK for a first attempt. The wood is padauk. The metal is rough, but it looks a whole lot better than when I started (Sorry no before pic). I have a few more of these that I'll probably attempt when I get around to it.


----------



## ToddJB

Bob, I have 2 that are in need of new scales. I'd love if you blogged your process, cause this looks awesome to me


----------



## summerfi

Todd, see this. Someone's already done the writeup.

http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/miscTools/perfHandle/perfHandles1.asp


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

That eggbeater looks awesome.! Bob, I'll swap you two pocket knives and a cassette tape player for that perfect handle.


----------



## summerfi

Turtle, OK if the knives are Case or Boker. ;-)


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks for the link, Bob. So he just used brass stock? I was trying to figure out how to reuse the original end mill like pins. Did you just peen yours or did you epoxy , as well?


----------



## summerfi

Todd, see this followup article where he changed his pinning method. I just used some brass threaded rod that I had on hand and epoxy. Seems pretty solid.

http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/jThompson/lvRivets/lvRivets1.asp


----------



## TheFridge

Have a similar one I found that I'll eventually finish.









Kinda stubbier but I think it'll make a perfect plane screwdriver.

Edit: same brand possibly?


----------



## donwilwol

I did one.it was in really bad shape. I think I just peened a cut off nail. The screwdriver was badly pitted but I still use it ALOT.


----------



## DLK

> Has anyone ever tried putting new scales on a perfect handle screwdriver? This one isn t perfect, but it s OK for a first attempt. The wood is padauk. The metal is rough, but it looks a whole lot better than when I started (Sorry no before pic). I have a few more of these that I ll probably attempt when I get around to it.
> 
> - summerfi


*UpChuck* showed me a set that I think he re-scaled. I was very impressed.


----------



## pastahill

Hey Bob, i put new scales on a few screwdrivers here I have now 6 more to do and the longest is about 18 inches long.


----------



## summerfi

Those are fantastic pastahill. What did you use for pins?


----------



## HokieKen

Great. I haven't spent enough time learning to restore planes and drills so you guys have to introduce me to something called the Perfect Handle Screwdriver! I use screwdrivers a lot. How can I not have some that are PERFECT?! My wife's gonna kill y'all. ;-)

Seriously though, somehow I've never heard of these. A quick peek on e-bay shows a wide price range. Since I've no experience, what kind of prices should one be paying for these guys? Also, are there preferable makers? I see some Irwins, some Italian made, some German made, and a few others thrown in. I'm not gonna jump in the deep end (at least not yet) but I would like to pick one or two up and see how I like them.


----------



## donwilwol

I buy every one i find under $5.


----------



## GregTP

posted this to a handsaw thread the other day but cant help doing it again. Henry Disston and Sons tennon saw I've had for a while but just restored.


----------



## HokieKen

> I buy every one i find under $5.
> 
> - Don W


Thanks Don! That gives me somewhere to start from. Any particular makers to seek or avoid?


----------



## HokieKen

> posted this to a handsaw thread the other day but cant help doing it again. Henry Disston and Sons tennon saw I ve had for a while but just restored.
> 
> - GregTP


Nice work Greg. The handle and the brass came out gorgeous.


----------



## terryR

Love the perfect drivers, guys!

Bob, SS pins are under $2 for 12" length, and look like da bomb!

http://www.knifemaking.com/category-s/769.htm


----------



## summerfi

Kenny - H.D. Smith was the originator of the perfect handle screwdriver. If you can find one of those, you've got something. I'd say all the rest are about equal. You'll find a lot that have no name. BTW, I'm a Hokie alum.

Greg - great looking saw.

Terry - Thanks for that info!


----------



## HokieKen

> Kenny - H.D. Smith was the originator of the perfect handle screwdriver. If you can find one of those, you ve got something. I d say all the rest are about equal. You ll find a lot that have no name. BTW, I m a Hokie alum.
> 
> - summerfi


Thanks Bob! I was looking at a set on e-bay that happened to be HDS so I'll see if I can get it for a decent price.

Hokie Hokie Hokie Hy!


----------



## pastahill

Bob i used normal mild steel round bars, if you let them about 1/8 longer on every side and peen them gently they compress and fit perfect, then file the got over flush. If you remove the wood without destroing the rivets you see that the most of them are crooked and compressed.


----------



## upchuck

> Great. I haven t spent enough time learning to restore planes and drills so you guys have to introduce me to something called the Perfect Handle Screwdriver! I use screwdrivers a lot. How can I not have some that are PERFECT?! My wife s gonna kill y all. ;-)
> 
> Seriously though, somehow I ve never heard of these. A quick peek on e-bay shows a wide price range. Since I ve no experience, what kind of prices should one be paying for these guys? Also, are there preferable makers? I see some Irwins, some Italian made, some German made, and a few others thrown in. I m not gonna jump in the deep end (at least not yet) but I would like to pick one or two up and see how I like them.
> 
> - HokieKen


 I agree Perfect Handle Screwdrivers are just cool. The only thing I can think of that they are not cool with is electrical work. For me that's a big no no.
I believe that Don W's pockets are deeper than mine…I generally pay $1.00 or less. But I'm buying the rusty and crusty ones. I don't expect to get any with both scales in place. And if both wooden scales are in place then one or both are loose, oil stained, chipped, split or generally beat up. But for a buck I get the ones with one or no scales. But for me making a pretty tool from a piece of crap is part of the fun. And it is an ideal use of the slivers of wood that I don't have enough to do anything else.



> http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/jThompson/lvRivets/lvRivets1.asp
> 
> - summerfi


The article that summerfi linked to is a excellent source of information. Jim Thompson (the old millrat) and Scott Grandstaff (also present on the wkfinetoos site) got in a friendly competition. They each pushed the other and provided each other with special wood, materials, challenges and ideas. And they pushed the Perfect Handle theme to wonderful heights. I don't have anything to add to the materials and techniques they developed. Scott made a full set of different sizes and made every other size of maple or walnut.

Just a few thoughts: 1) fit the wood to the screw driver before you spend too much time shaping the scale. 2)The ones with the squarish scale end towards the tip are easier to fit than the ones with the more pointed scale end. 3) All of the PH Screwdriver makers I have run into made their handles oval in cross section through the shank and scales. (At least from the remnant evidence on the dogs I've bought.) I've assumed that the oval was to improve the torque from a hand grip. I've made most of mine with a more round cross section to limit my torque. I've broken screws and blown out the slot of the screw head with ill fitting screwdriver tips and ham handed bullish behavior. With the PH screwdrivers I use when restoring planes I want to be a bit more gentle and mindful. 4) A four-in-hand rasp and a PH screwdriver that has the well fitted scales epoxied in place but not shaped yet can be a project that can be carried around in public wrapped in a rag and worked on during the odd free moments during the day. 5) The tip can be worked to perfectly fit particular sizes of slots. For example frequently the brass nuts on hand plane totes and knobs show signs of misuse from poorly fitting screwdriver tips. And a perfectly fitting tip makes frog adjustment easier for me.



















Dozens of companies made them. Pexco, Irwin, Ryan,Torbin, to name a few.

Good Luck.

chuck


----------



## BigRedKnothead

> Has anyone ever tried putting new scales on a perfect handle screwdriver? This one isn t perfect, but it s OK for a first attempt. The wood is padauk. The metal is rough, but it looks a whole lot better than when I started (Sorry no before pic). I have a few more of these that I ll probably attempt when I get around to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - summerfi


That's it, I'm gonna have to make myself a set with cocobolo scales;-)


----------



## summerfi

I could see that one coming Mr. Coco…I mean Red.


----------



## HokieKen

Thanks for all the info. Upchuck!



> I agree Perfect Handle Screwdrivers are just cool. The only thing I can think of that they are not cool with is electrical work. For me that s a big no no.
> I believe that Don W s pockets are deeper than mine…I generally pay $1.00 or less. But I m buying the rusty and crusty ones. I don t expect to get any with both scales in place. And if both wooden scales are in place then one or both are loose, oil stained, chipped, split or generally beat up. But for a buck I get the ones with one or no scales. But for me making a pretty tool from a piece of crap is part of the fun. And it is an ideal use of the slivers of wood that I don t have enough to do anything else.


I'll definitely seek out the "dogs" too. I am finding my recent obsession with restoring old tools as users to be very relaxing and I love converting rust and polishing old steel out! I've never fitted scales to anything and have been planning on making some for a pistol out of an old piece of walnut I have so restoring one of these PHs would be a good learning exercise and give me another tool that will see a lot of use. I really like the idea of dedicating it to use for the brass on planes. I definitely won't be using them on electrical though!



> http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/jThompson/lvRivets/lvRivets1.asp
> 
> - summerfi
> 
> The article that summerfi linked to is a excellent source of information. Jim Thompson (the old millrat) and Scott Grandstaff (also present on the wkfinetoos site) got in a friendly competition. They each pushed the other and provided each other with special wood, materials, challenges and ideas. And they pushed the Perfect Handle theme to wonderful heights. I don t have anything to add to the materials and techniques they developed. Scott made a full set of different sizes and made every other size of maple or walnut.


I'll definitely be clicking that link. I've learned a lot from both of those guys' articles and am anxious to see what they have on these screwdrivers. 


> Just a few thoughts: 1) fit the wood to the screw driver before you spend too much time shaping the scale. 2)The ones with the squarish scale end towards the tip are easier to fit than the ones with the more pointed scale end. 3) All of the PH Screwdriver makers I have run into made their handles oval in cross section through the shank and scales. (At least from the remnant evidence on the dogs I ve bought.) I ve assumed that the oval was to improve the torque from a hand grip. I ve made most of mine with a more round cross section to limit my torque. I ve broken screws and blown out the slot of the screw head with ill fitting screwdriver tips and ham handed bullish behavior. With the PH screwdrivers I use when restoring planes I want to be a bit more gentle and mindful. 4) A four-in-hand rasp and a PH screwdriver that has the well fitted scales epoxied in place but not shaped yet can be a project that can be carried around in public wrapped in a rag and worked on during the odd free moments during the day. 5) The tip can be worked to perfectly fit particular sizes of slots. For example frequently the brass nuts on hand plane totes and knobs show signs of misuse from poorly fitting screwdriver tips. And a perfectly fitting tip makes frog adjustment easier for me.
> 
> Dozens of companies made them. Pexco, Irwin, Ryan,Torbin, to name a few.
> 
> Good Luck.
> 
> chuck
> 
> - upchuck


And that's extremely helpful info. from you as well! Now if I can just find one or two to get started on. I'm finding that e-bay probably isn't going to be a good source based on the prices on there now and our fleamarket's probably done for the year. So I'll have to see what I can turn up at some estate sales and antique stores. If you have any other sources where I might find them cheap, I'd much appreciate it.


----------



## terryR

Had enough of paint stripper fumes….....










...now if I can simply find the power cord to plug this cabinet in!


----------



## donwilwol

Terry's gettin' serious!


----------



## terryR

Well….

I kept saying I wanted a Harley Davidson for my 50th B-day! Said that for decades. Now that I'm 50, I'm too damn old for 2 wheels! 

Decided instead to go for a $99 sandblaster from Tractor Supply, and a new 60 gallon Porter Cable compressor. IF anyone will be willing to help me unload the PC from my truck, I'll clean 3tools for free!


----------



## jmartel

> Well….
> 
> I kept saying I wanted a Harley Davidson for my 50th B-day! Said that for decades. Now that I m 50, I m too damn old for 2 wheels!
> 
> - terryR


Nonsense. Buy one if it's what you want (but take the safety course first if you haven't yet or haven't rode in a long time). I've made friends with a few guys that were over 70 on superbikes and having the time of their lives. They'd outrun a lot of the 20yr olds as well.


----------



## terryR

Not me, JExcitement. 
Give me 4WD and a big honkin' grill.

My wife used to ride to work daily, and I have a strong respect for bikes on the road…too many drivers don't have a clue around here. Nascar has infected people with overwhelming desires to tailgate and rush the drivers ahead IMO. In my f-250, they don't even show up in the rear view mirror…on a bike I'd want to kill others willing to risk my life.

PC compressor in the house! Watch out rehab patients…


----------



## theoldfart

"Now that I'm 50, I'm too damn old for 2 wheels! "

That's BS! I was 51 when this was taken on a hill climb.


----------



## DLK

I am restoring a molding plane and needed to make a new wedge to hold the knicker. So I cut and shaped one out of ash. Whats the best way to give it the same look/patina that the body of the plane has? If ash is a bad choice I can remake the wedge?


----------



## terryR

Awesome, Kevin!

Don, I used TransFast powder (black) recently to tint shellac darker. May work with oil as well? Maybe heat? I've got an old Stanley trans body that's of Beech if you want 1/2 of it. The Beech may tint closer to vintage?










^speaking of Beech…an Atkin and Son beading plane I started to clean this evening. The nice part is after a scrubbing with Turtle Wax Rubbing compound and 000 steel wool.


----------



## summerfi

Terry that's an amazing change on that plane. I'll have to give that a try. You probably already know this, but Atkin & Son were Brits.


----------



## terryR

That stuff is amazing; believe I read about it on WK Fine Tools? It leaves a bit of a shiny film finish which I don't like, but is easily removed.

For me, I love the stuff instead of BLO which just re-darkens vintage wood. I use oil on all my new tools.


----------



## DLK

I have used "Mendota Plane polish" which is

1 part boiled Linseed Oil
1 part Murphy Oil soap
2 parts paste wax.

I have heard that TLV (equal parts Turpentine,Linseed oil, Vinegar re-mixed before each use) is supposed to work very well for cleaning/restoring wood.

A straight wax cleaner like turtle wax Rubbing compound sounds worth a try.

*Terry*, I also have a beech tranny that could be repurposed.

I guess I could order TransFast powder from woodcraft. Probably can't get it locally. But this gives me another Idea. I could soak the new wedge in leftover evaporust to give it a nice patina, then seal with oil. (I've done this accidentally before)


----------



## CFrye

Terry, that is amazing!


> I could soak the new wedge in leftover evaporust to give it a nice patina, then seal with oil. (I ve done this accidentally before)
> 
> - Combo Prof


Sounds l Ike a good story, Don!


----------



## CB_Cohick

First before and after contribution. I found this 8ppi 26" Warrented Superior rip saw at ReStore. I took it apart, knocked the rust off of the blade, no etch present. Sanded and lacquered the handle. And I tried to sharpen the blade some. I need to find a saw vice somewhere if I am going to get into this. It is very satisfying I am finding.


----------



## Bertha

posting to get to the bottom. I'm working on a WT drill press. Photos to follow.


----------



## terryR

Nice work, Chris! watch those rust fumes…I think you may be addicted already. 

Saw vise= two 2×4's and two c-clamps to form a saw sandwich. Save your money for files and mo' vintage tools. Or slap together some plywood similar to this:


----------



## racerglen

Hi Al ! Just how big a W/T we talkin' ? seems I remember you like things BIG … ;-)


----------



## CB_Cohick

> Saw vise= two 2×4 s and two c-clamps to form a saw sandwich. Save your money for files and mo vintage tools. Or slap together some plywood similar to this:
> 
> - terryR


Thanks for the vice advice! I was overthinking things, as usual. Though, I have seen that Bob (rmsaws.com) has a vice for sale at the moment for not too much. But meanwhile, I can find some tubafores and give it a go.


----------



## JayT

Chris, if you want an iron saw vise, drop me your address, I have an extra picked up from an auction a while back. It's been brazed, but seems solid. I'll ship it to you at no charge just to get it out of the shop.


----------



## MNclone

Last night I just ripped a 1×4 in half and put it in a vise. It worked just swimmingly.


----------



## henricks

That is just like getting a simple idea from this site http://eatmywords.com/portfolio/before-and-after/.


----------



## CFrye

> Last night I just ripped a 1×4 in half and put it in a *vase*. It worked just swimmingly.
> 
> - MNclone


Yes, I misread that and thought 'You mean like flowers?" 
Don't mind me. I finished off six 12 hour shifts in the last seven days. Time for me to take a nap. Later, y'all.


----------



## woodcut

> wood cut:when de-rusted with electrolysis,Is that just galvanized, everyday sheet metal your using on the positive?
> 
> - daddywoofdawg


DWD, That's actually a section of 8" stainless spiral pipe, works very well on small parts -anything smaller than a plane frog, for example. Anything larger begins to tax my battery charger. When re-rusting larger items, I'll switch to pieces of scrap around the inside of the bucket to keep the surface area down, keeping an eye on the amp meter.
I use a solution of washing soda, works much faster than baking soda, IMHO…

Regards
c


----------



## Johnny7

*woodcut* (and everyone else)

the use of stainless steel as an electrode (electrolysis) is a well-known and documented no-no.
It is said to gives off toxic fumes and produce chromates which, when dumped, actually poison the water supply.

try googling "stainless steel and electrolysis"


----------



## summerfi

This Boice Crane 6" jointer was made from the mid-1930's to the early 1950's. I'm guessing this one is a 1940's version. I'm now the proud owner of three jointers, two of which are for sale. This one and a 1957 Delta Rockwell.

*Before*









*After*


----------



## putty

Wow, that is a nice restore, how does it work?


----------



## summerfi

It works great putty. The Boice Cranes have a good reputation, but I don't think they're quite the machine that the Delta is.


----------



## terryR

A set of Beading Planes by Atkin & Sons hiding in the back of my shop for a couple of years. In superb condition, just dirty.










After scrubbing with Turtle wax cleaning compound and steel wool…



















No pile of shavings to show, but these will make fine users!


----------



## donwilwol

nice transformation Terry.

Excellent work Bob!


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Jeepers Terry, how much gold you got stashed in the place? A set like that is on my lust list.


----------



## donwilwol

> Jeepers Terry, how much gold you got stashed in the place? A set like that is on my lust list.
> 
> - BigRedKnothead


He's been trading walnut floor boards!!


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, I have just two side beaders. Great envy coming your way, incredible set.


----------



## Tim457

Oh my Terry, those are amazing. Are they a matched set too? Nice job on the cleanup, such a nice tool to have.


----------



## CFrye

Wow, Terry!


----------



## terryR

Thanks gang, got 'em from Patrick Leach when I had spendin' money. They look barely used, so part of me feels bad about using them.

Tim, not a matched set…but I'm looking for the hollows…


----------



## CL810

Oh Terry! I think I got lightheaded seeing those beading planes. The third pic showing the Atkin logo is calendar cover worthy.


----------



## Mosquito

Sweet Terry!


----------



## terryR

Hardly any mallet marks on these at all…










I owe a lot to the previous owners!

When Mr. Leach says an old tool will clean up nicely…He knows!


----------



## racerglen

MMMmmm…tastey..


----------



## DLK

Those look very nice Terry. I am very jealous. I have a long way to catch up to you you will see shortly.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Pure Porn Terry, They cleaned up extra good.!


----------



## TheFridge

picked up a rosewood t bevel for 10$.
















Had a regular wing nut that just would not do. So I made my own out of bar stock. Used some high spot blue and granite to scrape the blade straight then I scraped the other side parallel to within .001. I think she's gonna work.


----------



## Tim457

Nice Fridge. How do you mark for parallel?


----------



## theoldfart

Terry, you need to appoint me your heir!


----------



## TheFridge

I just used some dial calipers to measure each end. File it close then blue it and scrape. Blue and scrape many many times. Wasn't off but by about .005 to begin with.

Bought it from a guy that had a fridge stuffed with planes. I saw 3 bedrock 7s. A bunch of planes still in the box. About 4-5 circular plane. Dude had multiple copies. Didn't have a #1. Had everything else though. That wasn't his users either. Any kind of brace bit you could ever use. Times 10. About 40 socket chisels from Stanley to butcher to sorby.

I wish I was his son. Wouldn't sell any of it. Gonna try and work on him. He needs some 750 pattern chisel handles so we will see.


----------



## Tim457

I think that makes sense, bluing it on a surface plate then measuring the ends, because if both surfaces are flat and the ends measure the same, then it's parallel. I've been wanting to fix up some try squares to be square and parallel and want to learn some of the old school machining hand skills to do it. Thanks Fridge.


----------



## TheFridge

No prob Tim. I just kinda make it up as I go and some times it actually works! I thoroughly enjoy having reliable tools as well.


----------



## daddywoofdawg

would you sell a nut like you made,I have the same bevel gauge with a square nut.and like the one you made.


----------



## jmartel

Just noticed your "fine wood rasp" in that photo, Fridge. I literally just bought the same thing. It's originally a micro plane for fine grating food. I've heard they make decent rasps though.


----------



## ThomasChippendale

BEFORE:









AFTER:


----------



## ToddJB

PJ, not sure we can accept that as a restoration, but it's a heck of an upgrade!


----------



## bandit571

Well, won a pair of Fifty cent planes the other day…









Three hour round trip to pick them up….









Took half a day on each plane to rehab them back to working status..









This one needed a few parts ( from the spares box)









But all I'm waiting on now is the finish to stop soaking into the wood. Plane is an Ohio Tool Co. of Auburn NY USA No.035 As for the second plane..









A #4 sized Mohawk-Shelburne made by Millers Falls. I replaced the lever cap. Sharpened both irons and tuned the planes up.









Been giving the Mohawk a good workout today, as well..









Even on some end grain..









Fifty cents each? Not too hateful..


----------



## CFrye

Nice work, as usual, Bandit. That's a purdee razee!


----------



## donwilwol

A type 11 #4 finally finished.










After


----------



## donwilwol

I believe this is a rebranded Stanley Victor - Wards Master


----------



## terryR

My goodness, Don. Your work on totes and knobs has reached another level of sweetness! 
What lovely planes!


----------



## Brit

Nice work on the planes chaps.

Hey Don! Have you got a Stanley No.110 Block Plane with Floral Buckle in your collection?










Only £345.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Antique-Extremely-Rare-Stanley-110-Block-Plane-With-Floral-Buckle-Lever-/172022305535?hash=item280d5412ff:g~QAAOSwp5JWZehB


----------



## terryR

345 pounds?
Wow, doesn't really look THAT heavy.


----------



## Brit

LOL.

My wallet won't be getting any lighter that's for sure Terry.


----------



## donwilwol

i don't have one Andy, and it looks like I won't be getting on soon!!!


----------



## Exeter

First post here…

Wetterlings 3 1/2 lb axe

Before:

















After:


----------



## johnstoneb

nice axe


----------



## Exeter

I restored a Bailey 4C Type 18 just last week. It was in pretty good shape to begin with, although the black finish on the knob & tote was pretty rough. I sanded off the finish and found some beautiful wood underneath. I put a satin finish on most of the metal parts and the wood.


----------



## ToddJB

Wow, both are super nice Exeter. Keep em coming.


----------



## b2rtch

I like the axe very much. 
Last fall I had to have an axe. 
I bought a new Council, the only axe made in USA I could find.


----------



## Exeter

> Wow, both are super nice Exeter. Keep em coming.
> 
> - ToddJB


Thanks! I've got a lot I could post, but quite a few I never got the before pic like the OP wants. But here is something a little different for this thread. A chainsaw-it's wood related, so I'm going with it 

This one has sentimental value. It's the saw my dad and I used to cut firewood in the early 80's. It was DOA when he gave it to me a couple years ago. I took her completely apart, bead blasted the case and had her powdercoated. Rebuilt everything. Spent more than it would have cost for a new modern saw. But she screams now and you can't beat the old Stihls. I like that it was made in West Germany.


----------



## ToddJB

Dang, that looks great. Did you repaint or did it just need a good scrubbing?


----------



## Exeter

> Dang, that looks great. Did you repaint or did it just need a good scrubbing?
> 
> - ToddJB


I took it down to bare metal and had it powdercoated. The case and gas tank are made from magnesium. Later models had a plastic gas tank.


----------



## b2rtch

Whooaaa! 
The chain saw truly is beautiful.
In my very first job, building power lines, I used a very similar one.
Over 30 years ago,one my neighbor in France gave me his chainsaw (a Mc Cullough) because he was afraid to use it. 
My father still has it. 
The bar is at least 36" or may be more.


----------



## CFrye

Super restores, Exeter! Did you do the powder coating, yourself?
Edit: had it done. I type too slow!


----------



## Exeter

> Super restores, Exeter! Did you do the powder coating, yourself?
> 
> - CFrye


I sent it out to a guy in PA that specializes in chainsaws.


----------



## donwilwol

I'm not sure which one I like better!!


----------



## DanKrager

That chain saw is just too nice to use! What a beautiful restore! Are you gonna put it in the living room for a bit? You know, to get SWMBO acclimated to the new collection about to happen!
DanK


----------



## Exeter

> That chain saw is just too nice to use! What a beautiful restore! Are you gonna put it in the living room for a bit?


She's a user! I've felled several trees this past summer. But once she's cooled down I clean her up nice.


----------



## summerfi

Some recent saw restores.

1. Richard Ibbotson
Before








After









2. C. Garlick & Sons
Before









After









3. Atkin & Son
Before









After









4. Fenton & Marsdens
Before









After


----------



## ToddJB

Dang Bob. Awesome! What is your criteria for replacing hacksaw blades? It seems like it is more often than not.


----------



## summerfi

Depends on how narrow, pitted, crooked, cracked, and/or rusty they are. Most backsaws from the 1800s are going to need a new blade.


----------



## BigRedKnothead

Man those saws were lucky to find Bob.

+1 on the excellent work Exeter.


----------



## donwilwol

Some fantastic work Bob!


----------



## putty

Nice work Bob, do you have room in your new saw till for them?

A while back you had a post about doing those saws, you also mentioned that you were doing 2 special saws. How are those coming along?


----------



## terryR

Great work, guys!

Would love a vintage Stihl made of metal. I have my Dad's old model as well…no chain brake so it doesn't see use.

Awesome, Bob! Love the C.Garlick too much.


----------



## summerfi

> Nice work Bob, do you have room in your new saw till for them?
> 
> A while back you had a post about doing those saws, you also mentioned that you were doing 2 special saws. How are those coming along?
> 
> - putty


The place for 14" saws is full, so I have to put these where the 12 inchers are supposed to go. That's why I need to sell some. LOL

The 2 special saws are at the laser engraver's right now. They are for a LJ that we all admire. I have no doubt those 2 saws will get a lot of use.


----------



## jmartel

> The 2 special saws are at the laser engraver s right now. They are for a LJ that we all admire. I have no doubt those 2 saws will get a lot of use.
> 
> - summerfi


Aw, thanks Bob. You made me saws for Christmas? You shouldn't have.


----------



## DLK

Bob, I think one solution for you is to make separate cabinets for each possible saw size all the way from 4" to 60"


----------



## summerfi

> You shouldn t have.
> 
> - jmartel


I didn't. LOL



> Bob, I think one solution for you is to make separate cabinets for each possible saw size all the way from 4" to 60"
> 
> - Combo Prof


Now that's an idea, but why stop at 60 Don? And I'll have to build a new bigger shop too. Or maybe that museum I've been wanting.


----------



## DonBroussard

DonW, Bob-Stunning work, gentlemen!

Exeter-Now, THAT'S how to make an entry! Excellent first posts!


----------



## Exeter

Don B - Thanks. I love restoring vintage tools. I have all sorts of things that I've done over the last 2 years. Many of which aren't wood related. Bench grinder, 80 YO bench vise, pipe wrenches, chisels, files etc. I've got a few woodworking tool resto's in progress. I'll add them once they are done.


----------



## DLK

> You shouldn t have.
> 
> - jmartel
> 
> I didn t. LOL
> 
> Bob, I think one solution for you is to make separate cabinets for each possible saw size all the way from 4" to 60"
> 
> - Combo Prof
> 
> Now that s an idea, but why stop at 60 Don? And I ll have to build a new bigger shop too. Or maybe that museum I ve been wanting.
> 
> - summerfi


Well a cabinet for saws over 60" is called a closet or a hallway.


----------



## donwilwol

The second bench plane from the left. Its a Stanley four square #1105.










After


----------



## Ajs73

1972 36-450 Unasaw, 3
HP, 3 phase. 
After lots of sanding, cleaning,
paint, bearings I scored a new,
old stock 3 HP 1 phase motor
& new switch off CL for $200. 
Switched the fences with
my contractor saw I have I 
nice new saw for under $240. 
Then was able to get $360
out of my old saw so came out
ahead.


----------



## donwilwol

You can't beat that deal!!!


----------



## ToddJB

Looks great, Andy!


----------



## terryR

Nice work, Andy!

Don, that's another sweet save. Love the tote!


----------



## Tim457

Impressive work Andy.

Don, what are you using to get that amazing level of polish on the knob and tote? They practically glow.


----------



## CFrye

WOW! That's impressive, Andy!


----------



## summerfi

Very nice job Andy.


----------



## measure2wice

Really nice work! How did you do the rust removal on the table?


----------



## Ajs73

Thanks for all the kind words. 
All rust removal was with 
my ROS.


----------



## donwilwol

> Impressive work Andy.
> 
> Don, what are you using to get that amazing level of polish on the knob and tote? They practically glow.
> 
> - Tim


----------



## Mosquito

> The 2016 Calendar info can be found here for anyone who wants one:
> http://lumberjocks.com/topics/133282
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Mosquito


Heads up, don't think I hit this thread last time, but the 2016 calendar is available, and has a month pulled from this thread


----------



## Ajs73

I just started looking into
this thread & it's impressive !
HPOYD is also a great
thread. My wife wonders
what I could possibly be
reading for hours at a time. 
I'm gonna start trying to 
rehab some of the hand planes
I've been accumulating the last 
year. A bit overwhelmed so gonna
start with the less desirable ones
for practice. Auctions around here
are addictive, nobody really bids
on hand planes unless they are
clean and ready to go so I buy 
them up for pennies. Should
probably sell some here but
don't really know what I've got
and haven't had time for to much
research


----------



## ToddJB

Andy, the Unisaw is way harder and longer to restore than a plane, so get after it!

And sell away, I'm sure many of us will be happy to pay a couple more pennies for the plans.


----------



## jmartel

Dang, someone's giving Don a run for his money.


----------



## donwilwol

Holy crap AJ


----------



## racerglen

2x Don W


----------



## grfrazee

@Ajs73, whenever you do decide to sell some, be sure to let us all know. We've all got the bug and would love to reduce your stock!


----------



## donwilwol

some more pictures

http://timetestedtools.forumchitchat.com/post/not-your-average-restore-7839122?pid=1290169017

Before (on the right)










After


----------



## terryR

Another nice smoother saved! Cool custom tote…

I don't see how you keep up with the volume of before and after photos, Don.


----------



## donwilwol

A type 3 Stanley #18 knuckle. I'm sure you know I have a soft spot for these. Its missing the lateral adjuster. I'll replace it if I can find the correct one (shown below if you happen to have a spare)


----------



## CFrye

Don W, will this work?


----------



## donwilwol

> Don W, will this work?
> 
> - CFrye


It would if I just wanted to make it a user. I want one from the correct vintage, so it needs the 3 patent dates as shown.

Thanks for watching though!!!


----------



## CFrye

Well, that's kinda what I figured, but thought I'd toss it out there, anyway. 
As shown? Is that what the scribbles in the middle are?


----------



## donwilwol

> Well, that s kinda what I figured, but thought I d toss it out there, anyway.
> As shown? Is that what the scribbles in the middle are?
> 
> - CFrye


Yes, 3 patent dates, and note the stanley on the curve.


----------



## Brit

Three old saws I've just restored. I still need to sharpen them.

*1. R Groves 26" 6ppi rip saw.*

Before


















After




































*2. Disston 26" No.7 10ppi crosscut saw*

Before




































After


















*3. Taylor Brothers 26" 6ppi Guinea for the Millions rip saw*

Before




































After


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job as usual Andy. Is this work being done in the new shop now?


----------



## racerglen

Guessing not Don (new shop) telltale sign of workmate over grass :-(
But where ever it's great work !

Andy, how are you making out weather wise ? Are you in the flooding areas ?


----------



## terryR

Stunning work, Andy! Glad you are back to saws again.
Love the pre-war date on the R.Groves. Pre-revolutionary war…


----------



## Brit

Yes Don, they were all done in the new shop. The shot showing the rustic workmate was sometime ago. I finished the saw handle for the Disston about 2 years ago, but never got around to finishing the saw plate.

Glen - No, there is no flooding near me. I live on the south coast of England and most of the flooding is in the North of England. If you dig down more than 12" in my garden you find sand and shells, so our soil is very free draining. It must be soul-destroying for those poor people though, some of whom have been flooded three times in as many weeks. The worst part is that even after the water has subsided, it will take months for the houses to dry out, floor boards will need to be replaced, plaster will need to come off the walls. Each house is a massive job to get it back to being a home again and there is no guarantee that it won't happen again. The government would have to spend millions of pounds to improve the defenses in those areas and that isn't going to happen quickly.


----------



## Brit

Terry - 1770 wasn't the year that saw was made. It was just the date that R Groves was established, although some would dispute the accuracy of that date. I'm not sure of the exact date of that saw, but I would say it was the latter half of the 19th century.


----------



## GregTP

I've posted this before so sorry for recycling but I can't resist. Henry Disston & Sons tennon saw. Got it in a silent auction with 4 other Disston saws for $40 bucks. (which in hindsight might have been too much, but I was happy).



















If you're an old tool purist, read no further! I had to sand the handle down quite a bit to get the years of sticker goo and grime off it, then I stained it with min-wax cherry and lacquered it. It sharpened up nicely and I have used it as my primary dovetail saw lately. The handle is fully intact, didn't realize I cut the same part off in both pics


----------



## chrisstef

Great refurb there Greg. That saw come out great.

Andy, top notch work as always.


----------



## summerfi

Beautiful saws Andy. Simon Barley gives a date of around 1900 for both the 1770 medallion and the Guinea saw. The Disston would be about the same time too.

Nice job on the Disston No. 4 Greg. I think you got a good deal if the other 3 saws are anything at all.


----------



## Brit

Thanks Bob, I was hoping you would chime in. You always save me a lot of research. )

Greg - You made a really good job of your No.4 and I don't think you paid too much either.


----------



## Exeter

Here's a Bailey #5 Type 19 that I picked up at an estate sale for $8.

At first it looked to be in bad shape, but it was mostly cosmetic, other than the broken knob. I thought I would need to strip the japanning and repaint. But once i cleaned off the dirt, overspray, oil and whatever else was on it-I found the japanning was nearly perfect. I gave it a good coat of wax and the japanning shines like new. I cleaned up the sole and wings with some wet/dry on a piece of float glass.

I bought a rough finished rosewood knob and tote, sanded them smooth and gave them several coats of Deft Satin Lacquer. Put a satin finish on the bolt heads and a new Lie-Nielsen iron and chipbreaker finished her off.


----------



## DanKrager

Exeter, that is an awesome restore. What a difference!
DanK


----------



## TheFridge

Nice work Exeter.


----------



## racerglen

Very nice, like it Exeter !


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent job Exeter!


----------



## Brit

Wow, that's amazing work Exeter.


----------



## Exeter

Thanks all! It was a fun project.


----------



## DonBroussard

Exeter-Looks like NOS now! Fantastic rehab.


----------



## CFrye

WOW, Exeter!


----------



## bandit571

Forgot to get the "Before" shots, but, here be the "After" shots..









Thistle Brand Jack plane. Cambered the iron a bit..









Seems to work ok on Walnut..









This was the second of two Jack plane from HamS….along with a "Fifty Cent" Razzee









Seemed to have gotten a few woodies lately.


----------



## donwilwol

Last restore for 2015. A Stanley #10.

Happy new year!


----------



## summerfi

That looks about 2000% better Don. You still have a few hours to squeeze in another one.


----------



## bandit571

Union #5c with a Teal paint job?









Wrong front knob









Rear handle was painted black….had some rust on the sides. and now?









Teal paint job has been replaced with a black one. Handle was stripped of it's black paint, brass is shined up









It now has a more correct low knob, rather than the cheap high knob. Sharpen the iron, tune the chipbreaker to make some Curly Maple shavings.









Iron has a UNION MFG Co stamp. There is a replacement bolt holding the UNION stamped lever cap. Lateral lever needed re-bent to where it should have been. 









Board in the vise is some thin Curly Maple, and a few of the shavings the jack plane made. 
Price tag says it is a whopping $12+ Tax!


----------



## terryR

Beautiful, Don. Something about totes and red paint…must've been in fashion sometime post-war?

Much, much better, Bandit! Teal?


----------



## donwilwol

This one needed a trip to the parts bin.


----------



## bandit571

> Beautiful, Don. Something about totes and red paint…must ve been in fashion sometime post-war?
> 
> Much, much better, Bandit! Teal?
> 
> - terryR


Teal? As in that funny blue/green Sears used to put on their planes. They had even painted the flattened down lateral lever and the frog that nasty colour. They also had the iron/chipbreaker set in the plane, with the chipbreaker under the iron. Iron does have the hole at the top of the slot….


----------



## Jhwill

I was wanting to get some users planes preferably Bedrocks and I saw this ad. I bought 4 planes + one as a parts plane. My goal was to refurbish to users. In the end I had a 603,604,605 and 606 I have not check the trueness to type but they work very well after sharpening.









After applying many of the techniques that others used I was pleased with the results and the amount of time that I spent. The 606 had what appeared as a large glob of liquid nail on the heel after removing it the finish was gone. I experimented with dry brushing semi-gloss black after 3 coats it blended. I want to thank everybody who shared their techniques it help me to accomplish results better than I expected.


----------



## putty

Oh MY,

Nice score … I hope you bought that fence too!


----------



## racerglen

What putty said..;-)


----------



## CL810

++++ ^. And JHwill, did you get the 386 fence as well?


----------



## Jhwill

No, that and one of the other planes were gone. But I did get a Stanley#46 with blades that I'm cleaning now.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Oh My My, Nice haul and restore. 4 Beauties, JHwill. I was liking the Red,, Don ! But I like it even better now . I'll trade you $8 a clock radio and 2 Vaughn & Bushnells.


----------



## thinbluebbq

Really inspiring pics here!


----------



## donwilwol

> Oh My My, Nice haul and restore. 4 Beauties, JHwill. I was liking the Red,, Don ! But I like it even better now . I ll trade you $8 a clock radio and 2 Vaughn & Bushnells.
> 
> - TheTurtleCarpenter


What's the $8 clock radio worth?

Nice jhwill. That's a score day!


----------



## terryR

Hmmm, never tried the chipbreaker UNDER the iron before…new tech? old tech? stupid?


----------



## donwilwol

> Hmmm, never tried the chipbreaker UNDER the iron before…new tech? old tech? stupid?
> 
> - terryR


Did I miss something?


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

> I ll trade you $8, and a clock radio worth a ten spot, and 2 Vaughn & Bushnells.
> 
> - TheTurtleCarpenter
> 
> What s the $8 clock radio worth?
> 
> Nice jhwill. That s a score day!
> 
> - Don W


----------



## racerglen

From Bandit's latest re-store Don..

. "They had even painted the flattened down lateral lever and the frog that nasty colour. (teal)They also had the iron/chipbreaker set in the plane, with the chipbreaker under the iron. Iron does have the hole at the top of the slot…."


----------



## donwilwol

> From Bandit s latest re-store Don..
> 
> . "They had even painted the flattened down lateral lever and the frog that nasty colour. (teal)They also had the iron/chipbreaker set in the plane, with the chipbreaker under the iron. Iron does have the hole at the top of the slot…."
> 
> - racerglen


Ah thanks Glen. I did miss that. I've not seen that either. It makes sense. Break the chips, then slice them.


----------



## Exeter

Stanley 750 1" Socket Chisel.
Before:
















After:
I sanded the flats, flattened the back and put a new 30 degree edge on it. I also refinished the handle with an ebony stain and gloss lacquer.


----------



## Tim457

Nice work, you don't kid around.


----------



## terryR

Looks superb. Lotta sanding there!


----------



## Handtooler

That's a real beauty. You certainly brought it back to life and an as new condition.


----------



## bearkatwood

I am amazed at the patience you all have. I am restoring a #5 and a woody, I will have to post them. I doubt they will be as amazing as exeters. and Dons. Great job all!


----------



## Slyy

Exeter you've done some fantastic (and likely cathartic) work!

Recent before and after


















Still needs some work, new motor mounted and fine tuned. The tools all need to be cleaned and sharpens as well but the hard part is done.


----------



## racerglen

Oh very nice Jake ! Phase three will see us calling you Mr. Chips ;-)


----------



## DanKrager

VERY nice, Slyy. Prepare for addiction.

DanK


----------



## donwilwol

Looking good slyy.


----------



## racerglen

Not too much of a resto here, a #700 M/F block, like a Stanley 110, picked up for 10 bux a year or so ago.
original japaning just fine on the body. Forgot to take a before..;-(








Sole is good, no need to flatten









Sides are fine as well









Touched up the blade, had to repaint the cap, while the plane appears to have had light use, it must have had a life on the bottom of a tool box as the cap had acne ;-)









This is a 1957 to 1966 type owing to the screw holding the knob in place.


----------



## donwilwol

Ok, not a huge transition, but its MFs #7.


----------



## Slyy

Glen hard to beat nearly unmolested, she looks nice!

Looks good Don, one of these days might try getting some MF red shade back on some of my worst MF stuff.


----------



## DLK

Don W. What do you use for Miller Falls red?


----------



## donwilwol

I just use Rustoleum red. I had it and I'm not sure anyone could tell the difference.


----------



## racerglen

I used International Harvester red on my #10, a Home Hardware (Canadian) store house brand paint, pretty close match.


----------



## DLK

thanks.


----------



## GoneAWOL

Found this website and forums a few weeks ago and have had a good time exploring the threads. I built up a small collection of almost all hand tools over the past few years from estate sales, flea markets, eBay, etc. It's neat to see what others have done.

Anyways, here's a plane I redid recently. It was fairly rust free and functional when I got it, so I used it for a year without any rehab. Then a couple weeks ago it fell out of a storage cabinet I was building and the knob and tote each broke, although the metal parts we're fine (crazy how durable they are). It inspired me to do a full renovation (painting, sanding wood, lapping flat, polishing brass).





































I'm also working on this simonds saw which I think is pretty old. Unfortunately it was in terrible condition - real bad rust and pitting, some kinks in the blade, and a cracked and broke saw handle. Given the medallion that I hadn't seen and a neat brass plate on the bottom of the tote, I thought it might be cool to redo. I'll post more pictures when I finish - hopefully I don't attract any criticism for rehabbing an 1800s saw I shouldn't have ever touched…


----------



## summerfi

> hopefully I don t attract any criticism for rehabbing an 1800s saw I shouldn t have ever touched…
> 
> - GoneAWOL


I think you'll find a lot more allies than critics here.


----------



## donwilwol

I agree with Bob.

Nice job on the 605.


----------



## terryR

Yep, nice work!
I'd say that Stanley is a happy jack.

Cool medallion on your old saw.
Our home is from the 1800's and we still use it…
...bet the man who built it is proud!


----------



## Slyy

Nice 605, also agreeing with Bob here too: think you'll find we're behind a good restoration.


----------



## DLK

Here is a Miller Falls 22 I picked up at Homer's Antiques in Naples Florida for $40 a couple of weeks ago and managed to get it back Home in checked luggage in a multiple connection flight (Ft. Myers->Orlando->Chicago->Hancock Mi) 3 hour delay in Chicago and 1 hour line to report lost luggage at home. Also found someone to drive us home as the Taxi cab company I use "forgot" to pay taxes and they were shut down. The MF 22 made it past security and did not put my luggage over weight (but it was close.) There was also an unusual moving fillister dado plane I was forced to buy at $5 in the bag that I will show later. My wife drove me to over priced antique stores until I found out from one dealer that Homer might have some tools. Homer's store is a bit unusual he is a specialist of military paraphernalia and in the back you can get free drinks and pastries to share with the old men who sit around telling their war stories. In the front is an antique consignment store run by I think his wife or acquaintance that is basically a typical good (for us) bargain consignment store that indeed had some tools. I had to be picky given luggage constraints. (She forced me to buy the wooden dado anyway.) My wife found some good things too.

*Before:*









*Even as is it made shavings on this piece of birds-eye:*









*After:*









It was an easy cleanup with evap-o-rust, simple green, and autosol. No other abrasives were used.

*It makes better shavings now:*









I have not even sharpened the blade at all. I just adjusted its position. Blade may have been never used! It still has square corners.

*Stamps and Marks:*




























Apparently a prior owner was "W. Denuto". Should I sand out his name and repaint?


----------



## terryR

Beautiful jointer, Don! What a great find.
I would just leave the name until you re paint the whole tool…if ever.


----------



## racerglen

2Nd Terry's thought, a real score and just leave the name (a bit of oil like WD or the like will sort of disguise it for a while..)


----------



## DLK

Thanks Terry.. I thought I might sell it, but now I think I'll start a MF collection. I have a 14c, 75, and a now a 22.
(Plus miter box, saw set, and brace.) I do like planes that have the stamp on their left side as MF does.


----------



## shampeon

Nice restore. I salute any and all fellow MFers.


----------



## bandit571

Mine is a bit on the small side, Mr.Stanley seems to want "Equeal Time" 









But, there is a No.8, a No.9, a No. 11, and a No.14. I used a Dupli-colour Red in one of those small "Scratch filler bottles.

Strange, but both of my low angle block planes are by Millers Falls…along with two "secondary line" planes….Craftsman #3C BB, and a Mohawk-Shelburne ( later the #900 Vline) Both are still very good planes..


----------



## shampeon

I've so far not repainted the frogs or lever caps, but need to.

I've been picking up various Miller's Falls tools, and have yet to have a bad one from any of their lines.


----------



## liljimy7

nickel plated before re-japanning painting.


----------



## CL810

Don, is Homer's Antiques worth a special trip from Ft. Myers?


----------



## DLK

> Don, is Homer s Antiques worth a special trip from Ft. Myers?
> 
> - CL810


Yes, I think so. There were other tools. Now the MF 22, I got was directly from Homer. He had snuck it out of the military stuff and across the boundary to the antiques. Hence I got a better, then expected price. Still there are some other tools I would have liked to buy. There is one "booth" that is almost all primitive tools. There was a Sargent I wanted and a mechanical drill press (for wood not metal) and other things. But I had to be choosey, because it had to fit into my luggage. (If I were to ship it would negate any deal I got.) Prices were cheaper at Homer's, then at typical antique stores in inner Naples (like the one one that wanted $100 for a transitional plane that I would only pay $15 for). But I don't know whats in FT. Myers. There is a fleamasters that had a booth advertising on craiglist as I recall that had vintage tools up your way, but I did not get there. Its a 45 to 60 min drive for you I think, combine it with a trip to the naples botanical garden or a nice dinner and you'll have good time. I had a hard time fining anything in S.W. florida and was happy to find Homer's. Having said that I find loads more tools in Michigan shops.
I really like the Hillsborough antique mall near Pompano. I found many craig listed tools up around Tampa,
but I was only in Safety Harbor for Christmas day. I'm rambling now. So yes you are close enough. Expect it to be O.K. but not absolutely fantastic. You might find something special if keep your eyes open. Call a head and see if there is booth with tools on sale. Remember you can negotiate on tools prices over $20 and get a likely 10% off in such places. Here is a  link to homer's


----------



## CL810

Thanks Don. I'm going to be in Ft Myers in Feb. hope to have time to get there. Heck, the military area looks like it's worth the trip alone.


----------



## DLK

Well there is certainly lots and lots of military stuff.


----------



## DLK

Well there is certainly lots and lots of military stuff.

Google maps says Ft Myers to Homer's is only a 40 min drive.

- Combo Prof


----------



## murch

Finally up to date with this thread. It's been a hell of a ride, not to mention very informative and interesting.


----------



## DanKrager

Man, what endurance. Another one emerges from the sewers! Wanna do another one?

DanK


----------



## murch

Oh I did a lot of scrolling through the heavy stuff to get to the pictures.
I'm currently making a tool chest so the related "of your dreams" thread is in vogue at the moment.
Great site.


----------



## terryR

murch, please share your toolchest with us…another dream thread…

What does your Dream Toolbox Look Like?

...the more players, the more we can all learn!


----------



## murch

Terry - it probably won't be ready for a few wks but fair warning, it's a mongrel.
We're trying to sell our house & move out into the country so I decided on a challenge. 
Use up whatever off-cuts I had lying around to make a box that will keep my tools together.
No plans, drawings, sketches - nothing. All being put together on the fly. 
Oh, and no electricity to be used either, except the light.
It's ready for the lid at the moment but I'm between ideas.


----------



## bandit571

The "Before"..









Nasty looking top..









And the after….


----------



## ToddJB

Nice save, Bandit. Did you have to fully strip it?


----------



## bandit571

Just the ugly top, was all. needed new brackets to attach the top, and hold the legs in place. Waiting on the last coat to cure out..


----------



## WhoMe

Really nice restore Bandit. That table top has some wonderful grain showing now.


----------



## donwilwol




----------



## racerglen

Nice job Don !


----------



## putty

Nice Don,

That saw has a healthy tooth set to it…could be the lighting or reflections though.


----------



## terryR

Beautiful, Don. Looks like 2 different saws.


----------



## summerfi

Looks nice Don. As many planes as you bring home, you must pass up a lot of saws.


----------



## donwilwol

> Looks nice Don. As many planes as you bring home, you must pass up a lot of saws.
> 
> - summerfi


I try to looks at the Saws Bob, and my new years resolution is to start paying more attention.


----------



## Brit

Well done Don. Another one saved for the next generation. We are but caretakers after all.


----------



## donwilwol

I posted some question about this saw on the saw thread, but here is the before and after.










This is on a Phenix Saw which I now know we're made by Atkins.


----------



## Brit

You can't beat those little panel saws Don for sawing at a workbench. I use my little 19 1/2" D8 all the time.


----------



## chrisstef

Agreed Andy. My 20" no.7 is my go to cross cut at the bench. Nice work on the cortland there yoda.

Question for the panel. Im getting a bit of blowout on the backside of cuts for my no. 12 xcut. Looking at it i think theres too much set. Am i thinking right?


----------



## chrisstef

Some google-fu says that cortlandt st was basically demolished to make way for the twin towers.

I think i see 70 cortlandt st ny new york on that plate don.


----------



## TheWoodRaccoon

I'm learning a lot watching this thread! I have some things I would love to restore. Some are in need of a real restoration to be functional, and some are fully functional, but could use a cleaning. It's hard to decide how to approach some items, because i don't want to wash away all the aesthetic flaws, dings, scratches, and grime as long as they don't impede functionality, because they tell a story. Every time i look at my old second hand tools, i get lost in them, trying to imagine its past life, to wonder what its been through, who its been used by. Just sharing my thoughts….. Anyway, I am LOVING this thread…...


----------



## donwilwol

> Some google-fu says that cortlandt st was basically demolished to make way for the twin towers.
> 
> I think i see 70 cortlandt st ny new york on that plate don.
> 
> - chrisstef


Steff, I've been trying to piece this together. After holding it just right under the light, I'm pretty sure its 76 Cortlandt St.


----------



## chrisstef

Cool don. Il merge my thoughts into this thread. Copy pasta comin up.

http://www.shorpy.com/node/10542

http://www.antiqueradio.com/Radio_Row_09-98.html
(See caption under 3rd pic)


----------



## terryR

Very cool bit of history attached to the saw…


----------



## chrisstef

Cortlandt St. Dorcy & Co. ?


----------



## CFrye

Amazing etch recovery on those last two saws, Don!


----------



## terryR

I've been cleaning this war-era 5 1/2 for so long I cannot find the before photo. But, mostly just a scrubbing of the body, new paint for the wood, and a freshly sharpened iron. It hasn't seen much use since I scored a low angle jack; maybe that will change now…


----------



## donwilwol

Looking good Terry


----------



## BrentParkin

About 10 years ago, I was surfing around e-Bay when a dirty old Miller`s Patent Stanley 141 bullnose plough caught my eye. It was as usual missing the fillester bed and had no irons with it. But it did have the rare bullnose front with it and despite the rust and grime, the wood handle looked really good.

I have always admired the Millers Patent planes for their great looking castings. Although the 141 casting is not a detailed as the 41 series planes, I thought I would bid on it and maybe get lucky. I had no plans other than to put it on a shelf with some other odd ball planes that have followed me home over the years. Fast forward a decade and I notice that Lie-Nielsen is tinkering with a plough that is based on the Millers Patent planes and I started thinking….

Wouldn`t it be nice to clean my 141 up and make it usable. So out came the rust remover and combined with some cleaning with a hand held brass brush, the plane started looking far better than I thought. The 141 was originally all nickel plated and somewhat shiny. The nicer looking 41`s castings contrasted between dark areas in the deeper details and the polished surfaces on the surface.

So I thought, what if I clean the darker metal left by the rust remover selectively… That might look a little better. After all, my intent was not to strip the thing and send it for replating. So I used a rust eraser to polish off the higher spots on the casting and wow did it make the plane look good.

I then got a piece of 18ga steel and using a photograph of the missing normal nose piece for the plane, made a template that was quite close to the original part and cut and filed a replacement out of the steel. It fits great and looks good on the plane. That solved the missing nose problem. Next was cutters.

Like a wooden plough plane, the Millers Patent planes required cutters with a groove down their centres so that they register on the skate firmly enabling a decent groove to be made. There were reproduction cutters available from places like St. James Bay, but I wanted to do this without a big investment. The Canadian dollar is in terrible shape against the U.S. dollar so new cutters would have been way over $200. I started thinking of ways to cut that groove into a Stanley 45 iron. Eventually, I stumbled over another woodworkers BLOG where he had indeed come up with the same idea and found a way to cut the groove.

So I purchased a group of 45 cutters from a fellow in the UK for about $20 and got to work. Here is a link to the post that moved me in the right direction. Credit is due here since I didn`t think this up on my own. https://sswantee.wordpress.com/category/all-categories/planes/

In short order, I had the cutters nicely grooved. I made a wooden case for the cutters and the cleaned up plane is going to become one of my users now. I don`t think my efforts took away any value as the plane was pretty rough when I got it. Now it looks clean, is usable and I have a nice looking example of a Millers Patent plane.

Here are some images along the way.


----------



## CB_Cohick

I rescued this compass saw from the flea market for $3.
Before









After


----------



## Mosquito

Beautiful restore Brent!


----------



## BrentParkin

Thanks Mos!!

I'm headed to Phoenix in three weeks so I plan to pick up another pair of rods from St. James Bay so that I can cut them down shorter like a 45's short rods. I never plow grooves a long way away from an edge. The long ones are a nuisance for storing in a chest. I love the look of the Millers Patent planes. Also nice to have the shavings ejecting from the right side of the plane. LOL.



> Beautiful restore Brent!
> 
> - Mosquito


----------



## Mosquito

Some day I will hopefully own a Millers Patent. I always keep an eye on them when they pop up on eBay, but for the time being I don't want to spend the money on one just yet


----------



## DLK

*Mos* I think you probably meant to write:


> but for the time being I don t want to spend the money on *just* one yet
> 
> - Mosquito


LOL.


----------



## BrentParkin

Mos, yeah they are spendy now. When I got mine, I was on the road working and threw a $100 bid at the thing. It closed at $85 as I recall. So it was a great deal.

I saw a nice one go fairly cheap on eBay UK awhile back. I shop on the UK site often since even when they say they don't ship internationally, Canada is a soft spot for them. Being an old colony and all. Often just asking will get things shipped here. The cutters I modified for this plane were bought like that.



> Some day I will hopefully own a Millers Patent. I always keep an eye on them when they pop up on eBay, but for the time being I don t want to spend the money on one just yet
> 
> - Mosquito


----------



## bandit571

Found this old chisel on a road trip…..at an Antique Store….seems to have been…."Restored" by someone who didn't know how..









1-1/2" wide. Edge was sharpened into a curve, steel was burnt. Sooo, took awhile, but









Burnt edge is now gone. Edge is also straight. Razor sharp, too. Sitting in front of a similar Eagle Brand 1.5" chisel. Both are the "firmer" style. 









Backs are also flat. Polished and stropped. Handles are now nice and tight.


----------



## thechipcarver

Here are my restoration projects.









Bought these at an auction for $7.50 for all. Sold the Stanley No. 5 (top one) for $25.00 as is, now to start restoring the others. More pictures to come.


----------



## Mosquito

> *Mos* I think you probably meant to write:
> 
> but for the time being I don t want to spend the money on *just* one yet
> 
> LOL.
> 
> - Combo Prof


Well one of each size, type, and configuration, obviously ;-)


----------



## bandit571

Did some trading today, this is what came home..









Stanley No.7c









Other than that little worn spot on the handle, and two threaded holes for a fence, wasn't too much wrong.









had to replace the iron, replace the stud the wheel was stock onto, tune the chipbreaker a bit









Looks a little better? That troublesome wheel?









They had used pliers to move it, apparently, most of the knurlingis gone, wheel is out of round. 









It do cut, even in White Oak. Type study says this MIGHT be a type 7? Now I have two old Battlewagons in port?









Left one might be a T-8 or 9. I seem to like the Rosewood handles, though. Both will do the job.


----------



## TheFridge

Just cleaned it up to sell. Sanded the Nickle off the lever cap because it blistered. I love Evaporust.


----------



## donwilwol

much better fridge!!


----------



## TheFridge

Thanks don, fellow LJ picked it up today and enjoying it as we speak.


----------



## bandit571

What came in the mail..









Just a plate, no handle, no bolts..what went into the tool box today.









works for me…


----------



## bandit571

Ok, this little mutt came in the mail..









Sears 107-37031 I think it says…..sides were very rough. sole wasn't too hateful..









Had a cocobolo front knob…...









Sooo, after less than an hour's work, I now have a nice Millers Falls No.75









Sole is now flat where it needs to be..









Wiped the dirt off the knob, to show all them black and red dtripes..









Iron is now tuned up, and making shavings..









This was Millers Falls version of the Stanley No.220. Might be usable, now.


----------



## MNclone

Here is a Kaye and Sons Dovetail saw I cleaned up. It is 16ppi and was the first saw I sharpened. I don't think I messed it up too badly!
The Brass was nice and shiny, but I've been using it a bit and it has begun to get some patina back.
Tote was a bit beat up, but it is stable now.
The split nuts tightened down a lot more than they originally were. The bolts now stick out of the nuts a good 1/16". I believe I will leave it as is though.

The Before


----------



## MNclone

I also cleaned up an old rosewood putty knife. I thought I took before pictures, but can't find them now.


----------



## donwilwol

That backsaw is sweet!


----------



## MNclone

> That backsaw is sweet!
> 
> - Don W


Agreed. Apparently Mr GTM thought so too. He stamped his initials on it in 3 places


----------



## theoldfart

^Spam, SPam, SPAm, SPAM !!


----------



## bandit571

Already flagged and sent to cricket…..


----------



## TheFridge

Stanley no 32. 4 fold brass bound w caliper. Good for small stuff I've been doing lately. Was measuring some small tenons and couldn't take it any longer. Filed it to fold out straight as it could. I've also become a fan of dremel tools with wool pads and grey polishing compound.


----------



## theoldfart

Nice, and good restore too.


----------



## Tim457

That's a cool look with the polished brass, but patina on the wood. Dremel for the win.


----------



## HokieKen

Nice polish on that brass Fridge! I love my Dremel for polishing too. I always use the green compound, I'll have to check into the grey if it does that though.


----------



## Mosquito

Hot dang, that looks great Fridge!


----------



## terryR

Sweet looking, Fridge.
Carry it to the Borg next time to check stuff; no one will know what it is!


----------



## Brit

What no millimeters (or millimetres to give them their correct spelling) Fridge? 

Nice restore.


----------



## shampeon

Fridge: if you want you can clean up the boxwood with some Barkeeper's Friend.









Beautiful little rule.


----------



## TheFridge

Thanks guys. I think the grey is a bit coarse compared to green. Seemed to help get the junk off better but still polished up well.

Shamp, I was wondering what would be good to clean the wood up. Gonna have to give it a shot.


----------



## terryR

And don't forget Turtle Wax rubbing compound…

doesn't darken the wood.


----------



## TheFridge

At the moment I'm trying out different waxes (Renaissance wax at the moment) to try out on tool handles to see what I like best over time. Thanks for the tip though. I'll have to give it a shot too.


----------



## terryR

Fridge, turtle wax for a cleaner, not a finish.
It will leave a waxy finish, but I sand that off and use good stuff for the finish.

friggin amazing as a light duty cleaner!


----------



## terryR

Sargent 714, before…










After restoration a few months ago…










OCD wouldn't let me look at the tote repair, so another restore…New low knob, new tote, sandblasted, and new paint…










...now I think it needs patina. LOL. But, I finally figured out that the longer it takes to restore tools, the fewer I need to buy.


----------



## putty

Nice job Terry! I really like the front knob better than the old one.


----------



## ToddJB

Yeah, I agree, Putty, that new knob is awesome. Looks like the ones on my early 400 series.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Nice work Terry.!


----------



## donwilwol

Nice work Terry. I wonder why they stopped putting the bead on knobs. It adds such class!


----------



## terryR

I was a bit worried I'd catch slack for putting a low knob on a plane…whew!
copied the knob on an older 710.


----------



## DLK

> But, I finally figured out that the longer it takes to restore tools, the fewer I need to buy.
> 
> - terryR


I like that! (I have 3 planes and one saw in pieces whose restoration needs finishing.)


----------



## Brit

Stunning Terry!


----------



## warrenkicker

Did some cleaning up of some tools today.

First is the table the lathe is on. Well it isn't so much a table but a maple butcher block type surface about 2" x 24" x 72". It sure makes the lathe heavy. Sanded and put some BLO on it. Too bad someone stored some sort of container that left that black stain.


















Next is an experiment on an old SW level. Looked like it had gotten some oil on it. Took it fully apart and sanded it down. One of the ends is missing and the plumb vial is broken. I bought this for parts so I wasn't worried about condition. I thought it cleaned up well though.



















Then finally were two bevel gages and a square. Both the gages are Stanley and one is SW while the square is Southington Hardware Co.


----------



## DanKrager

Warren, that black stain can be pretty readily removed with a good application or two of a strong bleach whose forte is these black stains, namely oxalic acid. It comes in crystal form and you mix the strength and qty you need. It's really kind of magic. 
If you've put finish on it, you will have to take that off first.

DanK


----------



## TheFridge

Gotcha terry.


----------



## DLK

Warren, how come your driveway is not covered with ice and snow?


----------



## Mambrax

got one just like that. Great job you did !!



> Fridge: if you want you can clean up the boxwood with some Barkeeper s Friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beautiful little rule.
> 
> - shampeon


----------



## warrenkicker

> Warren, how come your driveway is not covered with ice and snow?
> 
> - Combo Prof


Almost haven't seen snow this winter. There was some ice near us back in December but almost no snow. Supposed to be 70 today.


----------



## DLK

With the recent thaw we are down to about 2 feet on the level. So Driveway is a slick 300 foot ramp of ice. But some sticky snow has just fallen so I may not have worries about falling when I walk the dog this morning.


----------



## WillliamMSP

We had 57° and sunny yesterday - only a few piles of snow sittin' in the shade are left. Feels like mid-April as opposed to late Feb.


----------



## DLK

FYI, 23° today and snowing here and it also feels like mid-April as opposed to late Feb. You can tell I am very jealous. The cold weather cuts into my restoration projects.


----------



## Tim457

> FYI, 23° today and snowing here and it also feels like mid-April as opposed to late Feb. You can tell I am very jealous. The cold weather cuts into my restoration projects.
> 
> - Combo Prof


You should pick up skiing as a winter hobby. Aren't you pretty close to Mt. Bohemia?


----------



## bandit571

Is this worth the effort to rehab???









Cleaned out the Dungeon Shop, found all sorts of "goodies" underneath the shavings. Hauled two loads up the stairs and into the raised garden..









Hey…Compost happens…


----------



## Brit

> With the recent thaw we are down to about 2 feet on the level. So Driveway is a slick 300 foot ramp of ice. But some sticky snow has just fallen so I may not have worries about falling when I walk the dog this morning.
> 
> - Combo Prof


Is this what two feet of snow looks like? )


----------



## TheFridge

It was 70 today


----------



## DLK

Andy… didn't we do this snow joke before?

Any I lied there is officially 38" on the ground at the moment and the official total accumulation for the season is 227".
So a light snow year this year.


----------



## Brit

Yeah we did, but it's still funny. I haven't seen any snow at all this year, in fact it has been a remarkably mild winter here. Suits me.


----------



## ToddJB

This lil fella cleaned up. Bowdon Co, from Bob's British grab bag last year. Thanks Bob for the saw, and the new split nuts.


----------



## warrenkicker

> Exeter you ve done some fantastic (and likely cathartic) work!
> 
> Recent before and after
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still needs some work, new motor mounted and fine tuned. The tools all need to be cleaned and sharpens as well but the hard part is done.
> 
> - Slyy


Looks like a 1961 special. Did restoration cost more than it did originally?


----------



## DanKrager

Wow! This is a game changer for rust removal! I think someone should get this and let the rest of us (who still have money) know how it works on woodworking tool restoration!

DanK


----------



## putty

What is it…How does it work?


----------



## WillliamMSP

O.O

Want.

Don't want the price tag or electrical bill, though.


----------



## DanKrager

IDK what it is or what it did with the rust, but it's gone with no smoke, dust or residue. Have no idea how it works. Gotta go stir some dust, but I'll eventually learn about it. 
DanK


----------



## WillliamMSP

Laser ablation, evidently.


----------



## JayT

CleanLaser system.

http://www.cleanlaser.de/wEnglish/produkte/high-power-cl-1000.php

I think the backpack version looks about right for my shop. Anyone want to contribute?


----------



## DLK

I'm always a little concerned when the advertisement doesn't say how much the product costs. Did you find a price?


----------



## DLK

> It was 70 today
> 
> - TheFridge


It is 30 today. Shorts and t-shirt weather. 

I may actually make it into the shop again.


----------



## JayT

If you have to ask the price, you can't afford it.

Nowhere I saw listed pricing.


----------



## bandit571

Went out to get the trash cans this morning..trees were throwing snowballs at me…


----------



## DLK

> If you have to ask the price, you can t afford it.
> 
> - JayT


Exactly. I did see a small floor model at around $6K.


----------



## BrentParkin

Somehow I lost my before pictures. 

This old backsaw belonged to my Grandfather. The blade was completely pitted and ruined as I guess it sat in some water in their old basement for years after he passed away.

I was lucky enough to have Ron Bontz of Bontz Saw Works make me a new plate for the saw. I removed all the grunge, oiled the wood and cleaned up the brass until the black gunk was gone. It's now a thing of beauty and cuts just as well as my original I.T. dovetail saw. But this one has a family connection!!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Super job Brent, now it's in the family indefinitely.!


----------



## chrisstef

Stef needs that laser. I'm going to talk to the boss, I think we can make profit with that machine. At least that's my schpiel.

Killer refurb on that saw Brent. Do covet.


----------



## donwilwol

If I married Brent's sister, I could borrow the saw right!


----------



## JayT

Your wife might have something to say about that, Don.

Nice restore, Brent.


----------



## DanKrager

Thought that might even have been a new saw, Brent. Great restore! Now the slide begins…again.

I sticks in my head that the article said about $360,000 for the unit shown working. Chump change for DonW and the amount of restoration he does…  I bet he could sell off enough planes to pay for it and his wife would never miss them…! ??? Just sayin'....you know, trying to enable something. 

DanK


----------



## bandit571

Rusty & Krusty…









That was the Rusty part









And the Krusty part. And…









After a rehab. Old iron was badly bent, and snapped while getting straightened out. "New" iron is a Stanley one, about the same age. Seems to work..









$18 + S&H Ohio Tool Co. No. 0-7 The old iron had the Globe logo, and the six sided hole at the end of the slot. 
Guess I need to find another one. 









As I doubt one can weld these back together..


----------



## donwilwol

> As I doubt one can weld these back together..
> 
> - bandit571


Why not?


----------



## bandit571

Because..I don't have a welder..


----------



## DLK

Interesting language difference.


----------



## donwilwol

> Interesting language difference.
> 
> - Combo Prof


My thoughts exactly.


----------



## Brit

Language difference? I don't get it.


----------



## theoldfart

Bandits statement(As I doubt one can weld these back together) implies welding it would be physically impossible. The fact of the matter is it can be welded he just doesn't have the equipment to weld it.


----------



## ToddJB

Don't bother, Kev. Andy's British, he can't speak English.


----------



## DLK

Apparently in the sentence: "As I doubt one can weld these back together" Don W interprets "one" to be "anyone" 
whereas Bandit is using the reflexive form of "one". I.e. he meant it to mean himself also known as "I".

To be clear:

Bandit wrote: "As I doubt one can weld these back together" when he was thinking "As I doubt I can weld these back together".

Don W read: "As I doubt one can weld these back together" and thought he read "As I doubt anyone can weld these back together"

I was amused.

It turns out much to my surprise (because I would have read it as Don W did) that after suitable research it turns out that Bandits usage although confusing was correct.


----------



## theoldfart

Oh! Blimey!


----------



## theoldfart

Boy it's a good thing we have a common language 

Edit : Boy it's a good thing we have a language in common 

Edit : Edit : Boy it's a good thing we have language


----------



## DLK

.... and apparently type at the same time.

If Bandit had used the "royal we" :

As I doubt we can weld these back together.

Then it would have been clear to Andy. 
He unfortunately choose to use the "royal one".


----------



## theoldfart

We do have that in common!


----------



## donwilwol

to be clearerer, it can be welded, but "one" must have a welder.


----------



## theoldfart

Good thing we didn't get into the Pontifical we


----------



## bandit571

LOL….Queen's English vs Old Mick English ( the only thing English that we can get away with moidering)


----------



## Brit




----------



## Brit




----------



## Brit

... by which I mean let's all have a drink and not let's all get annoyed.


----------



## theoldfart

^ sage advice from one of the elders


----------



## DLK

Who was annoyed? "We" were amused.


----------



## terryR

Here is another Sargent Auto-Set, the 718 jointer, Type4 (1919-1942). I grabbed this one, and the larger brother, very cheaply a few years ago since both have repaired irons.

Before









I have a collection of Sargent planes with busted totes exactly like this one since the grain runs parallel with the base of the plane. Probably NOT going to repair anymore of them since I hope each will be a solid user at some point.










So, new totes…and knobs to match…

And, new paint…










I'm afraid this guy is a shelf-sitter until I can remedy the problem with cutter. The repair was done with thinner steel, and although the back is fairly flat, the front will not seat against the frog worth a damn.










till the bitter end!


----------



## donwilwol




----------



## Brit

Holy crap Terry!. I'm constantly amazed and inspired by the standard of people's restorations on this thread.


----------



## TheFridge

OhAndy, your such a Bobby dazzler

Edit: I don't know if I said it right but it sounded funny to me


----------



## ToddJB

Awesome work, Terry. I'm not sure what the last picture is though.


----------



## Brit

> OhAndy, your such a Bobby dazzler
> 
> Edit: I don t know if I said it right but it sounded funny to me
> 
> - TheFridge


I've heard that expression before, but don't really know what it means so I Googled it.

The Urban Dictionary said this: "Quaint coloquial term from northern England pertaining to someone very special indeed, either through good looks or by simply wearing something fancy."

Oxford Dictionaries said this: "A person or thing considered remarkable or excellent."

Thanks Fridge )


----------



## terryR

> Awesome work, Terry. I m not sure what the last picture is though.
> 
> - ToddJB


trying to show the repaired iron under a flat reference.


----------



## TheFridge

anytime my friend 

Edit: I'm with Todd terry. Something is throwing me off.


----------



## 33706

I posted this in Don's 'Rust Hunting' blog, but it should go here:










A Stanley #32 Transitional, 26" long, as received, and a week of spiffing it up in my spare time:


























This is the project where I personally felt NEEDED the Cordovan color, as opposed to basic black hardware. Looks light in the pics, but is a rich deep red-burgundy color in person. During the tear-down, I noticed that EVERY cast part had the "S" raised on the surface, even the yoke and cap lever!! I've never seen this before. Wooden sole was lightly jointed, rebuilt the missing horn on the tote, and all surfaces de-rusted and refinished. I use automotive spot putty to smooth out the pits on the cast iron surfaces, after filing down the gritty high spots. Makes for an almost flat surface perfect for alkyd enamel, my preferred choice for painting cast iron. I've discovered that Stanley used a 9/64 pin through the frog and yoke, jeez I had hoped to simply use a roll pin but no such animal exists in this size. 









Here are my three most recent restoration projects:

Hope you like!!
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/144362


----------



## warrenkicker

> I ve discovered that Stanley used a 9/64 pin through the frog and yoke, jeez I had hoped to simply use a roll pin but no such animal exists in this size.
> 
> - poopiekat


Cheap drill bit an option?


----------



## donwilwol

Interesting. I like the tri color set. A bit unconventional.


----------



## 33706

*Warren*: A drill blank may be too hard, the ends of the pin I removed were swaged at the factory. I'll probably just turn one in brass and see how it works.

*DonW:* I know the colors are a deviation, but a half hour with some Ford Chassis Black that you've recommended in the past would make these right again for the purists. Plus they've got iron surfaces smooth as a baby's butt now!


----------



## terryR

Beautiful, PK!
The castings do look smooth, and I like the colurs! Wow, the vintage wood is amazing…

edit: new wood looks grand!
+1 to wanting a proper stamp to re-brand tools.


----------



## woodcox

What lies beneath. 









Tote from the same no. 3. So much lacquer I thought they were plastic.


----------



## 33706

Thanks, Terry!
I've jointed several Transitional soles, not one has ever been seen twisted or warped, curved or anything else. Stanley used very stable blanks, I guess! The only problem I encounter is the splits and checks occasionally. Those end up being used for patterns, then off to the camping firebox. 
I have some really exotic veneers, my next resto will be in mahogany. That automotive spot putty works wonders on cast iron surfaces, too! Smoooth!! Thanks, all, for the nice comments.


----------



## putty

Nice work PK,

Do you fill the entire surface of the cast iron then, sand the spot putty off?


----------



## builtinbkyn

I like the colors. I guess it makes identifying one from the other, should they have different blade profiles, etc., much easier.

I may just put some racing stripes on my 608


----------



## DanKrager

Racing stripes? Oh the HORROR! Engraving is the way to go…classic. 

DanK


----------



## builtinbkyn

I was always a Richard Petty fan. Nothing more classic than Ol' #43 












> Racing stripes? Oh the HORROR! Engraving is the way to go…classic.
> 
> DanK
> 
> - Dan Krager


----------



## DanKrager

you're right, Bill. There's more than one kind of classic.

DanK


----------



## bandit571

Trying to find the shop of all of these in one group…









One way to store all of them.


----------



## 33706

*Putty:* I only use spot putty on low areas of the casting. First I file off any "flash" from the mold using a fine cut file, and any other little irregularities. Some 150 or 180 grit paper followed by 220 is sufficient to get it all nice and smooth. If I had a real problem casting, like pitting from deep rust, I'd use a spray primer/surface/sealer, sometimes called a 'sanding primer' and a bit of fine sanding or steel wool between coats until it gets built up smoothly. Then, my paint of choice would always be a gloss alkyd enamel, though it's getting a bit hard to come by these days. *builtinbkln*: I have a 'crashed' #8 that looks like it hit the wall. a "43" decal might be a nice touch!
*Dan K:* No racing stripes, but I have some veneer banding that might look right, on a transitional! Hmmm…
*Bandit:* If you're running out of room, I'd take some of those babies off your hands!


----------



## builtinbkyn

> *builtinbkln*: I have a crashed #8 that looks like it hit the wall. a "43" decal might be a nice touch!
> *Dan K:* No racing stripes, but I have some veneer banding that might look right, on a transitional! Hmmm…
> 
> - poopiekat


Well that was the wonder of photoshop and my limited skills using it. Not sure I have the "steel" to paint my 608 like that …..yet  Some banding on your transitional would look unique!


----------



## DanKrager

It used to be that a craftsman applying for a job would bring his home made hand plane that was sometimes elaborately carved or decorated to show his skill. I guess that tradition was across the pond mostly. I've not seen such other than in my own shop. I suppose that the families kept them as treasures, or they were buried with the craftsman!

That's funny, Bill. Yes, I agree that would be appropriate for that plane! I'm not into racing and the subtle humor went way over my head. 
DanK


----------



## warrenkicker

This won't quite be the usual restoration but it did involve some woodworking so I am going to count it.

Last week I made it to an estate sale and picked up this hacksaw for $1.










I like that it is very solid and strong but I think these usually came with plastic grips though I may be wrong about that. Filed down the joint line when the parts were cast to smooth everything and make it nicer to the hand. Then I decided that some paint and some grips would make it easier to look at and easier to operate. Well I had about the perfect size piece of curly walnut that seemed like it would really class it up. The walnut has BLO and wax.


----------



## Brit

Much better IMO.


----------



## Handtooler

Fantastic up-grade!


----------



## terryR

Wow, that's a sweet hacksaw!
Sure looks comfy to hold.


----------



## woodcox

Great fix! Almost a Luger look to it, nice saw.


----------



## DLK

Woodsmith had an interesting tip. Cut a section of a paint roller to fit over a 1 1/2 inch hole saw. Chuck it into the drill press and you have a buffing wheel.


----------



## bandit571

Large box of spare parts came in the mail box yesterday, managed to find enough parts to build one of these..









Stanley #5, about a type 16…..cleaned things up, chipbreaker was in BAD shape, a loaner iron was used. Repaired a broken tote, and might go back and repair the horn. Anyway, here tis…









Test drive on the edge of an Oak panel..









A look at the rear deck









Some of the other parts in the box includes the base casting for a T-6 No.5 , the base castings for a pair of No.110s and a #220. A few parts for a Stanley #1204. There were no irons in the box, a couple extra frogs









Two like this, and that red thing for the 1204. There was a Stanley frog for the rehabbed jack plane. Might try to find some parts to build the other No.5…...maybe an old junker 4?


----------



## donwilwol

A type 6 prelateral eagle label #27.


----------



## 33706

Nice resto on the tote, and a fantastic shine on the gloss black. I like it, *Don!*


----------



## putty

Wow Don!!! nice repair on the tote too!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

You are getting back in rhythm Don. Looks Great.


----------



## DLK

Don W. What are you cleaning the wood with? TLV?


----------



## Brit

Very nice Don. It looks valued now rather than neglected.


----------



## donwilwol

> Don W. What are you cleaning the wood with? TLV?
> 
> - Combo Prof


I usually mix some BLO and minerals spirits in a very small container. It doesn't take much and its hard to keep. If it's really bad I use a card scraper. This one was NOT scraped and was not sanded, but the last run with the cleaner mixture was with steel wool.


----------



## terryR

Wow! Great restore, Don!


----------



## warrenkicker

Decided I needed a drill press. I wanted one that was bench top and had a long reach. I also wanted something older that looked good. So a little over 2 weeks ago I spotted this old Craftsman 15.5" drill press. Weighs over 100 pounds.



















So I spent some time cleaning it up. The chuck was frozen shut. Everything cleaned up nicely. I had to rewire it and add a new switch but I already had all of those parts. One rubber washer was brittle and fell apart so I replaced it with an o-ring. Spent $75 for the drill and another $35 for a link belt, paint, electrical spade connectors and the o-ring. There were a couple holes drilled into the table but not all the way through. Took some dark epoxy I had and tried to fill them. We'll see how it sands down once it cures more. Put my dual indicator on the chuck tonight and it only registered 0.001" over 1 revolution. Pretty limited wear for a power tool that is at least 50 years old.


----------



## TheFridge

Great work warren.

I'd love to put it on my bench and see how well the deep throat works. I bet she's a machine.


----------



## Brit

Wow, that came up great Warren, nice work!


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent drill press!!


----------



## PaulHWood

Nice work, looks like a classic car


----------



## bandit571

Got so busy with other things, forgot to take a before photo…..so, maybe just an after one?









This little No.035 plane did not have a front knob. The rear handle was just enough to hold the toe bolt. A $5.36 rust bucket…..they even threw in a spare iron…

Scrounged a knob, and a tote, cleaned and sharpen,,,









Almost matches the other 035 in the shop…









Except one wheel is right hand threads, the other is left handed. Will do for now…


----------



## ToddJB

Great job, Warren.


----------



## kdc68

Sometimes I get lucky. I picked up this rare *Union* *4-3/8* in really good condition. Here's before and after. I still have to sharpen the iron, it needs a lot of work, but I'll save that for another day.

*Before* 
Everything is in great shape except the tote. It was broken in half, with no attempt to re-glue by the previous owner(s). All holding it together was a finish nail and tote screw. I will replace the tote with one from a Union donor plane I have on hand. I'll keep the broken one to fix at another time, just in case I need a tote for another restore. The big front knob is in great condition. Appropriate frog with "Patent Applied For" on the lateral. Appropriate Union iron and breaker. Plane body is in excellent condition. Retains most all the japanning with no repairs or owners marks. 
v








v








v








v









*After*

A good cleaning and de-rusting. Turned out to be a beautiful plane. My donor tote worked out well
v








v








v








v








v









My Collection so far. Currently I have a "few" Unions. It keeps growing

Union X - #3, #4, #5, #6, #8
Pre-Stanley #3, #4, #4-3/8, #5, #7, #8
Post Stanley, #2, #3, #4, #4-1/2, #5, #5-1/2, #6, #7
v








v








v








v









Thanks for looking !


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Lucky Dog.! Nice collection. Looks like a Union Family get together.


----------



## kdc68

> Lucky Dog.! Nice collection. Looks like a Union Family get together.
> 
> - TheTurtleCarpenter


v
Thanks. I couldn't wait to tear it down and clean this up. A real beauty.


----------



## 33706

4 3/8?* Jeez…. Nice family shot, there! Good job on the resto!


----------



## kdc68

> *# 4 3/8?* Jeez…. Nice family shot, there! Good job on the resto!
> 
> - poopiekat


v
Thanks. Yep, they made a #4, #4-1/4, #4-3/8, and a #4-1/2. The 4-1/4 and 4-3/8 sizes are hard to find. I got real lucky here..


----------



## 33706

Great finds, *kdc! * I double-checked the date on the calendar before I replied! Now I'll check PTAMPIA and see what info there is on them. And I thought the X-series was the holy grail of Union planes!


----------



## donwilwol

And I was thinking I did well with a Union with a Mosher patent. A 4 3/8 is about as rare as they come.

Since Union only made B planes until 1903, and Stanley bought them in 1920 and its a Union lateral, I'd date it between 1904 and 1919.

What a great find!


----------



## kdc68

> Great finds, *kdc! * I double-checked the date on the calendar before I replied! Now I ll check PTAMPIA and see what info there is on them. And I thought the X-series was the holy grail of Union planes!
> 
> - poopiekat


v
No April fools joke here.


----------



## kdc68

> And I was thinking I did well with a Union with a Mosher patent. A 4 3/8 is about as rare as they come.
> 
> Since Union only made B planes until 1903, and Stanley bought them in 1920 and its a Union lateral, I d date it between 1904 and 1919.
> 
> What a great find!
> 
> - Don W


v
Thanks Don. Maybe someday I'll find a #0 (equivalent to a #1) and a #4-1/4. 
This is a great forum, with even better restores. Glad to have a place to brag a little when I find a rare old plane…..lol


----------



## terryR

Awesome Union meeting.
Always liked the low fat knobs.


----------



## kdc68

> Awesome Union meeting.
> Always liked the low fat knobs.
> 
> - terryR


v
Thank you Terry. I started out with one #5 and one #4 not too long ago. And so now I'm hooked…..


----------



## BrentParkin

I posted not too long ago about restoring a D. Galloway & Co. dovetail saw. There was another saw though that has been sitting on a shelf for nearly 20 years waiting for me to fix. It was another saw that required a new blade. It has no family connection, it was an auction purchase that amounted to a brass spine being the only usable part. Pete Taran made a new blade for it back in the Independence Tool days and it has waited ever since for a handle.

I finally got off my rear end and made a super comfortable handle out of some Chechan I had and finished it with Tru Oil. Some nuts were purchased off e-Bay and finally the saw is able to join my others in my tool chest. I think it turned out great despite the years of waiting.

The saw maker was W. Cheadle from Birmingham, England. He was in business up to around 1860, so I'm happy to put such an old piece of hardware back into use. Yup it essentially is a Franken saw, but it cuts like a dream and looks great with my other saws.


----------



## BrentParkin

I posted not too long ago about restoring a D. Galloway & Co. dovetail saw. There was another saw though that has been sitting on a shelf for nearly 20 years waiting for me to fix. It was another saw that required a new blade. It has no family connection, it was an auction purchase that amounted to a brass spine being the only usable part. Pete Taran made a new blade for it back in the Independence Tool days and it has waited ever since for a handle.

I finally got off my rear end and made a super comfortable handle out of some Chechan I had and finished it with Tru Oil. Some nuts were purchased off e-Bay and finally the saw is able to join my others in my tool chest. I think it turned out great despite the years of waiting.

The saw maker was W. Cheadle from Birmingham, England. He was in business up to around 1860, so I'm happy to put such an old piece of hardware back into use. Yup it essentially is a Franken saw, but it cuts like a dream and looks great with my other saws.


----------



## Buckethead

Those look fantastic, Brent. Sometimes waiting returns superior results.


----------



## putty

Nice family shot there Brent. Beautiful saws, they deserve a nice cabinet to store them in!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Great job, Brent. Saved photos to my library


----------



## summerfi

Nice job, Brent, and a great looking bunch of saws.


----------



## Mambrax

Those are very nice ! Well done!!


----------



## Handtooler

Super job, Brent. And you must be very proud with such nice remarks coming from Summerfield, who's a superb saw maker in his own right.


----------



## Handtooler

Super job, Brent. And you must be very proud with such nice remarks coming from Summerfield, who's a superb saw maker in his own right.


----------



## BrentParkin

Thanks everyone,

And especially to Bob. My next saw is going to be one of Bob's Half back saws. LOL


----------



## summerfi

Oh my, I'd better get busy!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

The hard to find is on ebay.!


----------



## houblon

Found this No.5 size plane. Iron says "Consolidated Tool Works Inc, Pilot, USA". With the steering wheel.

Before:










After:



















There are 3 pairs of fake screw heads cast into the base, at the toe, center and heel. And the number two, which is also on the lever cap. The frog has a number 8.










I'm not sure if all the parts belong together, since the frog does not seat very well. The base of the frog does not make contact with the body. At the first try I got a lot of chatter and produced crinkle cut shavings. But if I retract the frog so that the blade sits on the back of the mouth I get great results.


























The cast is quite rough, and there are grinder marks all over.










Looks like I got a good user.


----------



## terryR

Nice restore!
Very cool logo.


----------



## Brit

Some wonderful restoration work going on here lately guys. Top notch.


----------



## donwilwol

The consolidated tools came out great.


----------



## donwilwol

I thought I posted this yesterday. More photos here


----------



## terryR

Looks much better, Don!

Here's a Stanley no.15 recently acquired,


----------



## KenTenn

No before shots..
Stanley WWII era # 4 1/2



















Stanley Type 8 # 10



















Union # 2


----------



## KenTenn

Here's a Before & After…Restored this for a neighbor who is getting into woodworking to show him the potential of a rusty POS…


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

very nice work, Ken from Tenn


----------



## bandit571

The "Before" 









Stanley No.45, T-20, SW, Made in Canada. Roxton Pond, Que.
Been cleaning and sharpening for a day or two..
The "After"...









Still working on getting the 21 cutters ( out of 24?) cleaned up and sharpened. I was able to make a bit of a bead









Afraid a Stanley 45 does not make see-through shavings…..at least when making these..









Maybe later, I can try one of these?









Maybe???


----------



## Handtooler

WOW! Bandit great work. You're gonna love her.


----------



## KenTenn

Bandit: The fact that you can even figure out how to set that thing up impresses me…I look at mine and wonder where to start…Nice job!


----------



## ToddJB

'53 Delta 8" Potbelly Jointer.


----------



## DLK

Very nice.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Thats Awesome Todd,,!!


----------



## Handtooler

Truly outstanding recovery. bet she really operates superbly also?


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks! Works like a dream. YouTube was invaluable in dailing it in.


----------



## Kenlew

Great looking restoration'. I like the color choice!


----------



## bandit571

Came in the mail today, looking a bit cruddy..









Millers Falls No.730 14 IN. With cocobolo handles….and the older Holdall chuck. 









Cleaned up nicely. Brought back two braces from the Magnolia Jamboree. Had to have one mailed to me, forgot to get it out of the truck I rode around in. Sue was kind enough to mail the big guy to me..









Lightly sanded the handles, then a coat of oil. Stack the two newest braces together









The little one is a 3710 with a Barber chuck…..not sure who made it. 10" sweep looks a might small, compared to a 14" one…..


----------



## Brit

Todd - You done that old girl proud. Fabulous restoration.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job Todd!!


----------



## JayT

Beautiful restoration, Todd.


----------



## terryR

Awesome work, Todd! What a gorgeous machine.


----------



## CFrye

Bandit, she cleaned up really well! 
Todd, what a difference! How many hours in the restoration?


----------



## DanKrager

Bandit, the gorgeous jointer restore kinda stole the spot from your 14" brace restore. Just wanted to let you know I'm envious of that 14" brace, especially after you got it all cleaned up. I have a 14" but it's got a bad chuck on it that I don't know how to fix. The internal threads are worn to the point of skipping and binding.

DanK


----------



## DonBroussard

Todd-The before picture took a lot of hocus pocus to get it to the after picture, but you sure got it done! Awesome restore!

Bandit-That huge 14" brace came out pretty nice.


----------



## JamieAB

No before pictures. I had done an initial cleaning on this Bailey #5 that was owned by me wife's Grandpa and I wanted to clean it up a bit more so I broke it down and scrubbed and waxed the metal surfaces. I then cleaned up the wood and then oiled them. I think the rear handle is either not original or was repaired…it certainly doesn't seem to match the front handle. I will keep cleaning it up whenever it strikes me that it needs done. I may eventually repair the japaning but I am not sure how to do so and I don't want to hurt this heirloom item.


----------



## terryR

^Looks great to me! A little use will darken that tote.


----------



## terryR

Here is a Sargent 217 block plane, Type3 ( 1910-18 ). Thanks to DonW for the ID!

before









after new paint,









trying to keep the vintage look, even with new paint?

ready for work,


----------



## Mambrax

Nice little guy there ! Very cool!


----------



## JayT

Finished this one up today. Stanley 5-1/2C, type 16.

Before.










After










Tote is extremely light in color. It is rosewood, just very light colored with a couple darker bands.










And it works just fine.


----------



## terryR

Looks great, Jay!


----------



## theoldfart

Before









After


----------



## DLK

How did you get that (screw driver ?) handle to turn into a saw? :-]


----------



## theoldfart

voodoo !


----------



## DLK

Well then thats the best restoration ever!


----------



## Johnny7

*TOF*

It would appear that you have the same bevel, about which THIS person is inquiring


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks for the heads up. Just left him a post.


----------



## warrenkicker

Cleaned up a few things today. Finally bought a gentleman's style saw that had all of its teeth. Wish it wasn't quite so new but I haven't seen many around here at all. It was $2.



















Next a wanted to make a real handle for a brass hammer I got recently. The handle it had was a broom stick. I decided a ball peen-shape handle would be nice. Figured out I could do some offset turning would probably make the shape I wanted.




























Then I finally cleaned up a couple of chucks I got recently. The keyless is on a Morse #1 taper and turns out the chuck is 1/2". Then the key chuck is a Craftsman 1/2" with a 1/2-20 thread. Turns out that is the thread on the taper shaft.


----------



## donwilwol

A Ohio made KK #7.



















After.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Great old Workhorse there Don. those Ohio planes are as good as they come.


----------



## donwilwol

A Stanley #21


----------



## putty

That is a nice save Don, hard to tell it was the same plane!


----------



## Brit

Amazing transformation Don.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Thanks for the Screenshot Don.! That a Sweet little 21 now that you gave it some Shine.


----------



## putty

So recently, I got a 22 in a tool lot, it is missing the cutter, chip breaker and lever cap. Is a 22 a desirable plane? It's kind of neat because it has a Stanley decal on the side.


----------



## TheFridge

Jamie, that tote looks like a white oak replacement.


----------



## Mambrax

it's nice. I like it. Just keep it and when you come across some usable part, put it back together. Buying part specifically for it may not make financial sense, IMO.


----------



## bandit571

$15 garage sale find, before…









Disston even made that saw for it. The "After" 









Stanley No.358 Mitre box & saw


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

KK 8,,No before pic but was pretty rough with brohen handle. Going out to a fellow LJ. these old KK's have some hefty blades.!


----------



## donwilwol

Lookin good on the KK. Don't ya wish you could just keep em all!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

That did run through my mind as I put the time in on this one,,,and the last several and so on.


----------



## Tim457

Nicely done sir.


----------



## warrenkicker

Did some work this weekend between business trips. Cleaned up a No 3 type 16 and a 604 type 4. Still need to do some polishing and sharpening but they are definitely looking much better. Both totes were broken but appear to have gone back together well. Took a WHILE to get one of the screws out but the acetone/ATF trick really helped. Working on the 605 now. It has more wood repair needed than the other two combined.























































They are ok but I have a long way to go to get to Don's standards.


----------



## JayT

Nice job, Warren. BTW, the 604 looks to be a type 3. A type 4 has a two line lever cap.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Nice work Warren, They were pretty much neglected. Now get them out of that creekbed before it comes a heavy rain.


----------



## warrenkicker

I do divert a lot of water around the house in that gravel. There is a ground drain just under that area.

I am amazed how much the look of that wood changed just by sanding a little and then adding some BLO and wax.

The 605 is a type 7 but also has the cupped knob receiver boss typical of a type 8. The japanning is in good shape for once for me.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

That river rock makes a nice backdrop Warren. Blo is Magic Sauce.!


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job Warren. Looking at what's left of the blade, I'd say that 604 has processed some material. It's got a lot of past projects under its cap, and thanks to you it has some more in its future.


----------



## bandit571

Picked these up this morning..









Spokeshave by S. Smith & Son, blockplane is a Stanley









9-1/2. Iron was upside down, and so was the lateral lever..

After a decent clean up..









Spokeshave may get a new coat of black…someday..









The 9-1/2 will need to be sharpened up a bit. Not too bad a day…


----------



## theoldfart

Bandit nice 'shave.


----------



## kdc68

Union X5A before and after

Before
v








v








v








v








v









After
v








v








v








v








v


----------



## donwilwol

Great save


----------



## bandit571

Well, found this old eggbeater drill a while ago…









Missing the end cap, and the handle had a few too many cracks in it…..decided to pull that mess off. But, what to use to replace it..









Hmm, might do the trick. Drove that knob off the speeder bar, and threaded it onto the drill









Still have to clean the wheel, and maybe a new red paint job. Only marking on the drill itself was a "No. 5" on the crank handle. Still need to make a side handle…...


----------



## HokieKen

I've become a fan of Miller's Falls planes as of late. They've replace all my Stanley bench planes now as the ones I grab most often. Picked this #14 Jack up a couple weeks ago. Sandblasted the base and frog and painted them with engine enamel. The tote was a replacement that was wayyy to small and was horribly sloppy so I got to make my very first tote. And I love it! I'll probably replace the tote on my smoother now too because I've never really liked the shape of it. I used a piece of Walnut for this one because it matched the knob pretty closely in color. Other than painting and making a tote, it was just a matter of lapping the sole and honing the iron and chipbreaker. Also re-did the red in the lever cap but left the nickel plating as it was.

Before:









After:


----------



## donwilwol

Very Nice


----------



## Mambrax

Nice MF !!! Very cool.


----------



## Mambrax

Question : Sunday i bought a scraper that it thought was a Stanley N12. However, it doesn't say Stanley on it but it does say "Bailey - Patented 58" on the brass knob. Anybody can point me out to more info, please ? Thanks,


----------



## HokieKen

> Question : Sunday i bought a scraper that it thought was a Stanley N12. However, it doesn t say Stanley on it but it does say "Bailey - Patented 58" on the brass knob. Anybody can point me out to more info, please ? Thanks,
> 
> - Mambrax


Quick search just turned this up. You just might have something of value to collectors there!


----------



## Mambrax

Thanks, yes that the one i got, but with the scraper blade. Super cool ! Shamelessly I'll say i did not pay that kind of money.


----------



## donwilwol

> Question : Sunday i bought a scraper that it thought was a Stanley N12. However, it doesn t say Stanley on it but it does say "Bailey - Patented 58" on the brass knob. Anybody can point me out to more info, please ? Thanks,
> 
> - Mambrax


Ok, you can't post something like "I've got an original Bailey scraper " and not post pictures. That's just wrong!!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

There must be something to those MF planes. Out of all the planes I've owned, I've only bought 1 MF #9 and it has been sitting patiently on the shelf for several years. Now after seeing several testimonys on them lately, I'll have to pull it in front of those V&Bs for cleaning up and see for myself.


----------



## HokieKen

> There must be something to those MF planes. Out of all the planes I ve owned, I ve only bought 1 MF #9 and it has been sitting patiently on the shelf for several years. Now after seeing several testimonys on them lately, I ll have to pull it in front of those V&Bs for cleaning up and see for myself.
> 
> - TheTurtleCarpenter


I can't quite put my finger on it but the MF planes just feel better to me. I'm sure it's just a matter of personal preference but there's just sumpin' special 'bout em. I can say that of the dozen or so planes I've "tuned up", the MFs have required considerably less lapping. Maybe they had a more stable casting or maybe it's just how it worked out for me.

And let's face it, that red frog and 3 point lever cap are just sexy ;P


----------



## ColonelTravis

> I can t quite put my finger on it but the MF planes just feel better to me.
> 
> - HokieKen


Funny. My favorite plane in my garage is a MF #9. I've got two Stanley #4s and they just don't have that special-ness to them and I hate saying that because one is a Bedrock and the other is a Type 12 or 13, don't remember, all I know is it's not junk. I'm gonna have to think about that more because I can't tell you why, either. I don't have a lot of bench planes, only 10, so maybe I'm just full of crap because I've never found the special other ones out there somewhere.

I play guitar and some instruments feel great to you and some are lifeless, even the same model. Maybe the same kind of thing here.


----------



## bandit571

I've never had any chatter from a M-F plane…..some of the Stanley versions feel a bit "loose".... i do have about half and half…..half Stanley, and half Millers Falls. I even like their block planes…


----------



## Mambrax

> Question : Sunday i bought a scraper that it thought was a Stanley N12. However, it doesn t say Stanley on it but it does say "Bailey - Patented 58" on the brass knob. Anybody can point me out to more info, please ? Thanks,
> 
> - Mambrax
> 
> Ok, you can t post something like "I ve got an original Bailey scraper " and not post pictures. That s just wrong!!
> 
> - Don W


Absolutly right (also acouple of other stuff i found
Pictures :



























!


----------



## donwilwol

That's a special piece max, use it with pride! And thanks for sharing it with us!


----------



## HokieKen

> I ve never had any chatter from a M-F plane…..some of the Stanley versions feel a bit "loose".... i do have about half and half…..half Stanley, and half Millers Falls. I even like their block planes…
> 
> - bandit571


Supposedly, that's why the 3-point lever cap was patented - to eliminate chatter. Popular opinion is that it was just a marketing ploy but I wonder… I keep thinking I'm going to swap the lever caps from a MF and a Stanley and see if I notice a difference but I've never gotten around to it.

I've never tried any of their block planes but when I stumble across one locally, I'll definitely pick it up.


----------



## WillliamMSP

> I can t quite put my finger on it but the MF planes just feel better to me.
> 
> - HokieKen
> 
> Funny. My favorite plane in my garage is a MF #9.
> 
> - ColonelTravis


Ditto. One No 9 was enough to give me the MF bug. I only have two of them at this point, but I keep trawlers out there for decent deals on them. Was very tempted by a No10 that popped up locally, but the price was still a bit high for me.


----------



## Mosquito

I've been resisting the MF… keep thinking about it, but currently the only MF I've got is a 709


----------



## JayT

^ And that, folks, is a classic example of the humble brag. Subtly rubbing the fact you have a Buck Rogers in our faces. 

I've had a few Millers Falls planes pass through my shop. They tuned up really well, but I just didn't like them enough to replace the Bedrocks that are my main users.


----------



## Mosquito

"replace"? What is this "replace" thing you speak of? 

It's not the greatest, but it was the right price. Also has a custom bloodwood knob from DonW on it too, since it was missing the original


----------



## TheFridge

Is that a buck Rodgers?


----------



## Mosquito

It is indeed, 709


----------



## JayT

> "replace"? What is this "replace" thing you speak of?
> 
> - Mosquito


"Replace" is an extremely rare occurrence and hence, unknown to many of the LJ community. It's what happens when a tool enters your shop while at the same time, another one leaves to find a new home. While highly unusual, it is nonetheless a technique occasionally used by LJ members who have tiny shops and no room for more tools.

Alternative definition: A method of exchanging a tool for monetary gain, which is then in turn, utilized to purchase at least two more tools that can take up space in the aforementioned tiny shop.


----------



## WillliamMSP

> "replace"? What is this "replace" thing you speak of?
> 
> - Mosquito
> 
> "Replace" is an extremely rare occurrence and hence, unknown to many of the LJ community. It s what happens when a tool enters your shop while at the same time, another one leaves to find a new home. While highly unusual, it is nonetheless a technique occasionally used by LJ members who have tiny shops and no room for more tools.
> 
> Alternative definition: A method of exchanging a tool for monetary gain, which is then in turn, utilized to purchase at least two more tools that can take up space in the aforementioned tiny shop.
> 
> - JayT


I've been working on this 'replace' thing, but it's not going so well. I keep saying that I'm going to move my 606 so that I can pick up two or three things with the proceeds, but letting go ain't easy. I did finally sell a camera lens that I was very attached to, though, so there is hope.


----------



## Mosquito

Ah….. thanks for the clarification JayT… I need to try that sometime lol It happens in waves for me. I sell a bunch all at once, after it's piled up in the "need to sell" column. Same is true for my computer stuff too. I have I think 5-6 computer cases I need to get sold too, they take up too much room, but annoying to sell so I generally list a bunch at once


----------



## WillliamMSP

So what you're saying is that you want to trade a MF No9 for a compact mATX/mITX case with room for at least 4 HDDs?


----------



## Mosquito

Define "compact" lol I don't really have any that fit that criteria at the moment, with out some modding involved. I do have a decent number of "spare parts", like hard drive cages, hot swap bays, etc around that could help with that…


----------



## Buckeyes85

I have some old "perfect handle" screwdrivers that need the wood replaced. any tips on how to shape the wood to fit? I saw some discussion on this forum (around page 105) on the topic of restoring these screwdrivers but nothing about how to get the wood fitted properly. thanks


----------



## donwilwol

I've replaced perfect handle screwdriver handles. I get them close, then use lamp black for final fitting


----------



## HokieKen

I was part of the previous discussion. Since then I've bought 1/2 dozen drivers to re-scale. I've tried to re-scale 2 of them so far. I've increased my working vocabulary of curse words and have 4 drivers with old scales and 2 with no scales at all. Do yourself a favor and sell those drivers TODAY!

JK but seriously, it's a HUGE PITA for me. There are others who do an excellent job with them though. Maybe it's just me… I'm not giving up though, someday I'll get back to 'em.


----------



## Buckeyes85

Don and HokieKen 
thanks for the feedback. Ken, I really got a chuckle out of yours and i'll bet you are going to end up being so right. sometimes I just cant help but try though. I thought about using modeling clay to make a template to use to size the wood. Does that sound right?


----------



## ToddJB

> I ve replaced perfect handle screwdriver handles. I get them close, then use lamp black for final fitting
> 
> - Don W


Don, I just googled lamp black, how the heck does that help in fitting?


----------



## Brit

> I have some old "perfect handle" screwdrivers that need the wood replaced. any tips on how to shape the wood to fit? I saw some discussion on this forum (around page 105) on the topic of restoring these screwdrivers but nothing about how to get the wood fitted properly. thanks
> 
> - Buckeyes85


I've never replaced the scales on a perfect pattern screwdriver, in fact I've never even seen one in the flesh as they aren't that common here in the UK. After looking at them on the web though, I think I would tackle it as follows:

Split one of the old scales off by scoring the old scale in line with the rivets, placing an old sharp chisel between the two rivets and giving it a progressively harder whack until it split. Repeat to remove the other scale. I would then glue the two halves of each scale back together and use the best of the old scales as a guide to shape some new ones. Starting with two suitably sized and squared blocks, I'd pick one of them and shape the wood on the underside first with a carving knife, rasp and sandpaper until it fitted nicely. Holding it in place, I'd mark the position of the rivet holes with an awl by pricking through the two holes in the frame from the other side. Resting the new scale on the square external face, I'd drill the rivet holes from the inside out. Then, using double-sided tape to hold the new scale in place, I would shape the exterior surface using the same tools. Once I was happy with it, I would pop it off, remove the double-sided tape and set it aside. I would write 'A' on the underside of the scale and a corresponding 'A' on the side of the metal frame that I'd just removed it from. I'd then repeat the above process for the other scale. Lastly I'd hold the new scales in the frame, wrap some masking tape around the assembly leaving the rivet holes exposed. Push some new brass rods through the holes and peen them over to hold the new scales permanently. Sand the rivets flush with the wood and the job would be complete. Does it need to be harder than that or am I missing something?


----------



## HokieKen

> Don and HokieKen
> thanks for the feedback. Ken, I really got a chuckle out of yours and i ll bet you are going to end up being so right. sometimes I just cant help but try though. I thought about using modeling clay to make a template to use to size the wood. Does that sound right?
> 
> - Buckeyes85


Yep that sounds right. I tried using one of the original scales in the same way. For me the problem is tapering/angling/radiusing the ends all at the same time with a rasp. No matter what tact I took, I always jumped straight from "almost there" to "where the hell did that gap come from?!" - seemingly with a single stroke of the rasp. It really shouldn't be that hard and it really probably isn't - it's probably just me 

This article by James Thompson on wkfinetools.com may be helpful for you.


----------



## HokieKen

> ... Does it need to be harder than that or am I missing something?
> 
> - Brit


 Nope that's pretty much exactly how it was laid out to me and exactly how I planned to do it. It's not the method that eludes me but the skill of execution.


----------



## HokieKen

> Don, I just googled lamp black, how the heck does that help in fitting?
> 
> - ToddJB


Same as machinists layout dye but less permanent - especially on wood. Cover the handle, lay the scale in and press down, remove scale and the high spots will be black.


----------



## Brit

> ... Does it need to be harder than that or am I missing something?
> 
> - Brit
> 
> Nope that s pretty much exactly how it was laid out to me and exactly how I planned to do it. It s not the method that eludes me but the skill of execution.
> 
> - HokieKen


In that case, these are pretty cool.










http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Perfect-Pattern-Screwdrivers-Set-of-4.html

Just sayin'. )


----------



## donwilwol

> Don, I just googled lamp black, how the heck does that help in fitting?
> 
> - ToddJB
> 
> Same as machinists layout dye but less permanent - especially on wood. Cover the handle, lay the scale in and press down, remove scale and the high spots will be black.
> 
> - HokieKen


That's it. Its the same way I enlet rifles into stocks, and infills into infill planes.


----------



## ToddJB

Good to know. Thanks dudes.


----------



## Mosquito

> In that case, these are pretty cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Perfect-Pattern-Screwdrivers-Set-of-4.html
> 
> Just sayin . )
> 
> - Brit


I've got that set, good stuff when I'm driving flat heads.

Also re: Lamp Black, similar for bedding an iron in a wooden plane as well


----------



## Buckeyes85

Brit, HokieKen, Don
thanks so much…some great help. Really appreciate it.


----------



## Tim457

> Yep that sounds right. I tried using one of the original scales in the same way. For me the problem is tapering/angling/radiusing the ends all at the same time with a rasp. No matter what tact I took, I always jumped straight from "almost there" to "where the hell did that gap come from?!" - seemingly with a single stroke of the rasp. It really shouldn t be that hard and it really probably isn t - it s probably just me
> - HokieKen


Have you tried a file instead of a rasp? Works pretty well where you want to remove very small amounts of wood at a time.


----------



## bandit571

Lamp Black is just an older term for Carbon Black…..the nasty stuff they mix into co-polymers to make tires and hoses black…...should know, worked 22+ years handling the stuff….

One can coat an object simply by holding it over a candle's smoke.


----------



## DLK

Three dollar Auger-Gimlet. 12 inch shank and 7 inch handle. 
Stamped 17 Germany. I guess the 17 means 17 mm but it measures about 16.4 mm, i.e. a little over 5/8 inch

Easy restore but I have some questions.


Is it common to find one so big?
Can someone tell me how to sharpen it? 
Did it have a special purpose or is it just for making holes?
What can I use it for where an auger bit wouldn't do?

*Before:*










*After:*


----------



## SwampDonkey772

Before








After


----------



## HokieKen

Hey, now it's a Miller's Falls table saw! ^


----------



## HokieKen

> ...Also re: Lamp Black, similar for bedding an iron in a wooden plane as well
> 
> - Mosquito


I use layout dye to fit frogs to bases on metal planes too. Dye up the machined pads on the frog, print the base and file away the high spots.


----------



## Mambrax

A Stanley 77 back from the grave. Really like those !









After


----------



## Mosquito

Wow that's some good work Mambrax!


----------



## warrenkicker

I agree, WOW! Was it just dirty or was that mold?


----------



## Mambrax

Thanks,
Those were smelly mold. Very gross.


----------



## Johnny7

Good stuff, Mambrax


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Looking at the after pics you would think it just came out of its original box.!


----------



## donwilwol

Fantastic Restoration


----------



## HokieKen

I agree Mambrax, that looks absolutely brand new. Nice restore!


----------



## Mambrax

Thanks you guys, very kind of you.


----------



## theoldfart

Mambrax, mine's in the mail to you right now! Please have it done by Wednesday. :
Outstanding restore on something that looks almost contagious. Should serve you well over the years.


----------



## Tim457

Wow, I agree. How did you get the brass so shiny? Did you remove it to polish it? Did you use something to kill the mold or just sand it?


----------



## ToddJB

wow


----------



## Mambrax

Tim,
Used murphy soap them a little vodka to kill the germs (i had no rubbing alcohol handy at the time) pretty easy actually (use steel wool for the process). For the brass i did not remove anything except for the thumb screw and the latch part (the little brass piece on the sliding part). I did polish the scroll face on a diamond stone (with water) to take out some big hugely scratches and flatten everything the best i could. Then i just polished everything really good. Actually it only took like 1 hour max from start to get the finish result. I should mentioned to that there is no finish on the wood, it's just polished, which speak for the quality of those tool at the time.
Got a couple of other think i'll be putting through the same treatment.
Cheers and thanks again for the kind word, much appreciated !
JD


> Wow, I agree. How did you get the brass so shiny? Did you remove it to polish it? Did you use something to kill the mold or just sand it?
> 
> - Tim


----------



## splintergroup

Just finished 1964 Powermatic model 141 bandsaw (auction purchase)

Before:









After:


----------



## Mosquito

Sweet! That looks great now splinter


----------



## ToddJB

That's a great looker!


----------



## Handtooler

Not only is it now beautiful as new, but such a fine machine for you to use and enjoy.


----------



## donwilwol

Wow, that looks great!!


----------



## warrenkicker

Was it dipped in tar when you got it? Looks great now. How does it cut or have you not yet mustered the courage to get it dusty?


----------



## Brit

Splinter - I see you gave up on restoring it and just bought a new one. LOL.

Excellent work.


----------



## bandit571

$8 rusty and krusty..









And, after maybe an hour's work..









Just wanted to get this area freed up enough to where it was working again…









Even got the chuck looking better..









Had to clean out the inside….wasn't sure about OEM paint, so didn't use any.


----------



## HokieKen

That is some serious sexy splintergroup!

Bandit, I love that post drill. I've been hunting for one (not Buffalo particularly but just a good old 'arn one) for a couple of years but haven't stumbled on one yet. If you're interested, there are two on vintagemachinery.org that you can reference if you want to paint. I think if it were me, I'd leave the green off an go with the black and red. I'll paint it for you if you'll ship it to me and let me keep it ;-P


----------



## splintergroup

Thanks Guys!

This poor tool was used in some kind of factory where a lot of semi dried glue (contact cement?) was present in whatever they were cutting. They even tried to scrape it off the saw in several places.

Warren: no, I haven't tried using it yet. Not sure why, maybe afraid to scuff it?

Anyhoo, it'll act as my go-to saw for template trimming so I can leave my resaw setup alone in my other BS.

People find some crazy-strange tools around here but they shore clean up real purdy like!

(BTW, I did a blog writeup of the restore if any of you are into tool restoration porn 8^)


----------



## Mambrax

That's apiece of magnificence !!!! sweet !!!


----------



## bandit571

I currently have that drill on FeeBay…..(str8leg*123) IF anyone needs a "parts" drill…..

I don't have the resources around here to fully restore the drill. Too big for the shop I have….


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

It seems I am lax at the before pics as I usually just start cleaning and away I go. This is a K 3 I've had sitting waiting its turn for a while now. It had the usual amount of rust but hadnt had a lot of use as you could tell as I dissasembled it, nice full blade with original factory bevel and the frog had to be pried off as it was like a Pitbull with a bite on a rope.










The sole had a slight twist and took quite a while to flatten out, but all in all this ole bedrock is a solid little smoother. Now im kind of attached to it and might just keep it.


----------



## DanKrager

Man that looks good, Turtle.

DanK


----------



## donwilwol

Some nice work guys.

Love the Kk


----------



## Handtooler

Goodness that's a beautiful plane. cleaned up by a pro. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## ColonelTravis

My $5, #2 Type 7-ish estate sale find. Still can't believe it. Wish I had better shots of the crappy before, but just picture this kind of rust and dust all over everything. Really wasn't in that bad of shape when I picked it up. And by "picked it up" I mean "Holy $#!%, this thing is $5?!"





































I believe I heard my #8 in the background say it was jealous.


----------



## ColonelTravis

I've got a rosewood low knob I might switch out because I believe the high knob here is not original. I did email Patrick Leach about it and he said Stanley was notorious for mix and matching #2 parts, it can be really hard to get an accurate Type dating. But the color is so off I can't imagine the knob was original. The blade is not original, it's a little older, 1910-18. Like to find an older blade. With my other bench planes I don't really care if it's as original as possible, but this one I want to get back as close as I can.


----------



## CL810

Really nice work CT!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Well done CT ! You are right to get it back to stock and although the front knob is in good shape it originally came with the low knob. Ill keep a lookout for an earlier blade for you.


----------



## HokieKen

Well if nobody else will say it, I will ColonelTravis… You Suck!

That's a great score and a well done restore.


----------



## WillliamMSP

Oh, he's been on the receiving end of You Sucks for a few days, but now that I see it after clean-up… I'll throw in another 'you suck!!!' this time with more exclamation points. 

Here I am, bummed out that I took 30 minutes to consider a MF block plane on ebay, only to have it swiped out from under me, and this guy's flauntin' a $5 No 2. Oy.


----------



## TheFridge

Don't forget his 5$ 40-1/2 at the same place…


----------



## ColonelTravis

About that 40 1/2 - let me give myself a *You Suck!* in the most un-ironic way for breaking the lever cap on that thing. I thought I'd be able to pick another one up fairly easily. Nope. Didn't realize how rare the 40 1/2 was compared to the 40. Started a thread about me wanting to buy one, but thought I'd mention it here, too. Anyone got one to sell to an idiot!?


----------



## TheFridge

Asked around and got a big negative. good luck.


----------



## theoldfart

Colonel, I'll be in Liberty Tool and Hulls Cove next week. I'll see what I can do.


----------



## Mambrax

> I ve got a rosewood low knob I might switch out because I believe the high knob here is not original. I did email Patrick Leach about it and he said Stanley was notorious for mix and matching #2 parts, it can be really hard to get an accurate Type dating. But the color is so off I can t imagine the knob was original. The blade is not original, it s a little older, 1910-18. Like to find an older blade. With my other bench planes I don t really care if it s as original as possible, but this one I want to get back as close as I can.
> 
> - ColonelTravis
> 
> Fantastic luck ! Great resto ! Well done sir. For the breakage, I',m sure everyone as 20 store of "HoupSydoopsy" they can share ! Again super cool !!!


----------



## DLK

> About that 40 1/2 - let me give myself a *You Suck!* in the most un-ironic way for breaking the lever cap on that thing. I thought I d be able to pick another one up fairly easily. Nope. Didn t realize how rare the 40 1/2 was compared to the 40. Started a thread about me wanting to buy one, but thought I d mention it here, too. Anyone got one to sell to an idiot!?
> 
> - ColonelTravis


I understand that scrub plane lever caps are extremely delicate. Almost all break. Hence it might be better to have a beefier one manufactured for it. Can a replacement cap be re-engineered to fit the 40 1/2 somehow?


----------



## theoldfart

Actually the weak part in the Stanley scrubs is the older body casting without the vertical rib. See the B&G site for more details .

Edit I should have said that the cap breaks because of over tightening it, consequently without the rib the cap fails.


----------



## DLK

> Actually the weak part in the Stanley scrubs is the older body casting without the vertical rib. See the B&G site for more details .
> 
> - theoldfart


Hmmm reading B&G seems to contradict what was told to me.


----------



## TheFridge

Worst case LN scrub cap?


----------



## bandit571

Get a chunk of Brass the right size, and fabricate one from it…...like an L-N cap?


----------



## ColonelTravis

> Colonel, I ll be in Liberty Tool and Hulls Cove next week. I ll see what I can do.
> 
> - theoldfart


Thanks for the offer. Funny, I emailed them! And the tool shop above Roy Underhill's school. I'm sure there are others, but those are the only two old tool stores I could come up with (brick and mortar, not internet guys). I've been to the one in NC, never been to Maine.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

CT, You might have to sell your #2 to buy this,,its over $5 !

http://www.stjamesbaytoolco.com/


----------



## DLK

From St James bay:  #40 ½ Scrub Plane Lever Cap in cast iron $40.00 which includes screw.


----------



## ColonelTravis

I called SJB and he's out. Said he would make some again maybe in 2-3 months, he wasn't sure.


----------



## warrenkicker

Picked up a no-name spokeshave a couple of weeks ago and cleaned it up this morning. It measures 8 3/4" wide so it is pretty small but cuts nicely.


----------



## warrenkicker

Happy Father's Day everyone. I also cleaned up a Stanley SW No 77 today. It wasn't quite as rough as the one Mambrax redid but his was the reason I bought mine. The one I had had bad scribe pins and wouldn't work very well. The differences I see between mine and Mambrax's is that mine has a retaining screw in the body to keep the fence from falling off when it isn't clamped down and the secondary pin adjusting screw doesn't have a hole through it. Cleaned up nicely though.


----------



## Mambrax

sweet stuff !!!!


----------



## Brit

I. Sorby punch brand 5/8" English Mortise chisel. 14" long. Quite a lot of pitting on this one. I managed to get rid of most of it without changing the size of the chisel.

Before pics:




























After on the far left with the rest of the set. 1/8" to 5/8" in 1/16" increments. The two biggest chisels on the left will get new English beech handles and leather washers next.


----------



## donwilwol

I have to admit Andy, my heart beats a little faster when you post that set!


----------



## Brit

I'm on the hunt for a 3/4" now Don. If truth be told I wouldn't mind finding a 3/16" and a 1/8" as well. The 1/8" I have is an I. Sorby and a lovely chisel, but it isn't a Punch brand and the 3/16" that I have is actually an undersized 1/4"


----------



## ColonelTravis

Awesome set, Andy. Where did you pick those up?


----------



## Brit

They've come from about 4 different auctions on ebay.co.uk over the past 3 or 4 years.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Oh yeah, I remember reading this a while back. Great job. Good luck with the remainder of your hunt.
Man, now I want a set of Punches!


----------



## Mambrax

That is great set ! super nice find and restoration.


----------



## bandit571

I picked this mitrebox for a dollar bill…..









The rest of the pile was a bit more: And, now for the "After" 









I did have a backsaw to fit, it was already in the shop. New paint, new thumbscrews to replace some ugly bolts..









Managed to tighten up the swivel….amazing what a good cleaning can do..









Stanley No. 150 Mitrebox, with saw…..looks about ready to go to work?


----------



## warrenkicker

Looks good bandit.


----------



## DLK

I heard a rumor that WD 40 bought Evapo-rust. Can anyone confirm?
If true they would I suppose first sell of the remaining containers before rebranding.
This may account for why I am seeing "Evapo-rust sales" and its appearance at Wal-mart.


----------



## Handtooler

Bandit you're a real artisian when it comes to restoration, just like Don [email protected] and the many others that share their abilities on Lumberjocks. Thanks


----------



## DanKrager

Yes, you made this one look especially good, Bandit.

DanK


----------



## bandit571

Thank you. Since I don't have the room for it in the shop ( that 358 is a space hog) have placed this one over on feebay…...

Need to get some other items cleaned up and ready to post there…...


----------



## MikeUT

I picked up this 4 1/2C a few weeks ago and have been working on it a bit at a time. It had a lot of rust and there is a chip on the back left side of the body but the knob and tote were in great shape. It cleaned up nicely, I'm happy with how it turned out.


----------



## DLK

What an improvement! When you get it sharpened and dialed in it will be your favorite.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job Mike!


----------



## HokieKen

Very nice clean up Mike! That's a huge improvement of the original chunk of rust. Nice job polishing out that brass too!


----------



## MikeUT

It's nice and sharp and I'm already spoiled. I'm going to have to get a 5 1/2 now, even-numbered smoothing and Jack planes feel so skinny now!


----------



## DLK

I use my 5 1/2 a lot too. In fact among bench and block planes I think I only am really using my 8, 5 1/2, 4 1/2 and 60 1/2. But I give the others a workout from time to time so that no bench plane feels neglected, :-] (They needed to make an 8 1/2 lol)


----------



## MikeUT

> I use my 5 1/2 a lot too. In fact among bench and block planes I think I only am really using my 8, 5 1/2, 4 1/2 and 60 1/2. But I give the others a workout from time to time so that no bench plane feels neglected, :-] (They needed to make an 8 1/2 lol)
> 
> - Combo Prof


I could get behind an 8 1/2! How wide would it be? I think 4" would be nice. You might have to get a running start to get a shaving though!


----------



## donwilwol

More pictures and an explanation here


----------



## DLK

Don W, what are you using to clean and finish the wood base?


----------



## donwilwol

> Don W, what are you using to clean and finish the wood base?
> 
> - Combo Prof


I sanded this base. I started at 180 and went to 320. Starting at 180 doesn't strip all the history, and ending at 320 makes it look decent but not beyond what it would have new.

I typically use tru-oil for finish on planes I am going to keep, but this one is laquer, which is what it would have been new.

I'm always trying different techniques. I like a tru oil finish, its a bit softer than lacquer, but I was in a "I want shineyer" mood.


----------



## DLK

Thanks it looks good. Do you lacquer/true-oil the bottom or leave it bare? I just bought a 33.3 oz bottle of true oil, so I will use that when the time comes. I like the 180 to 320 plan. Today I worked on finishing up a saw and a brass insert craftsman made by miller falls I think smoother.
I should try a woodie next I guess.


----------



## donwilwol

If it's a user, I just wax the bottom. If it's a collection piece that will sit, i finish it.

I don't believe Millers Falls ever made a brass badged craftsman. I thought that was a Sargent thing. If you really have a brass badged MFs, it's probably pretty rare.

Post some pic's.


----------



## DLK

> If it s a user, I just wax the bottom. If it s a collection piece that will sit, i finish it.
> 
> I don t believe Millers Falls ever made a brass badged craftsman. I thought that was a Sargent thing. If you really have a brass badged MFs, it s probably pretty rare.
> 
> Post some pic s.
> 
> - Don W


You are probably right. I'll post pictures when its done. Probably Sunday.

I poked around the web and yes I am pretty sure its a Sargent 408 or 409 made for Craftsman.

Do they have any value?


----------



## bandit571

Even has a Craftsman label on the handle…









Stamped into the side, is a "3 C" If I sit it beside my Millers Falls No. 8…









Except that the No. 8 has a frog adjust bolt, the Craftsman does not, Iron also has the "BB" stamped into to it. 









Except for the brass logo, the rest of the lever cap is a bright nickle plate.


----------



## donwilwol

> If it s a user, I just wax the bottom. If it s a collection piece that will sit, i finish it.
> 
> I don t believe Millers Falls ever made a brass badged craftsman. I thought that was a Sargent thing. If you really have a brass badged MFs, it s probably pretty rare.
> 
> Post some pic s.
> 
> - Don W
> 
> You are probably right. I ll post pictures when its done. Probably Sunday.
> 
> I poked around the web and yes I am pretty sure its a Sargent 408 or 409 made for Craftsman.
> 
> Do they have any value?
> 
> - Combo Prof


The Sargent's have a little value. The craftsman may have a little, but probably not much.

http://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/28/a-brass-badged-sargent-made-craftsman-414c/


----------



## DLK

Well I did not pay very much for it. But it sure has been a chore to restore.


----------



## DLK

Here she is:



















Notice the brass insert. Mine is oval and "craftsman" is wavy, Bandit shows one that is oval and "craftsman" is straight, Don W's link shows one that is square and "craftsman" is straight. We need a type study.

The wood is walnut. I still have to give a few coats of tru-oil and sharpen the blade, before I say done.

I wish I could find the before picture. This one was a painful restoration.


----------



## donwilwol

And there are some with the insert in the base behind the knob.


----------



## DLK

Anyone have a size Craftsman iron (blade) to replace the one I have in above plane?


----------



## warrenkicker

Cleaned up a couple of my finds from last week. Neither of them have manufacturer markings but the square has patent dates and the bevel has an unusually wing nut that has angled and offset wings.


----------



## DLK

Nice.


----------



## bandit571

Awhile back, picked a $1 Worth No. 40 Butcher's saw. 









Along with a Disston Keyhole saw. 









Finally got around to cleaning the #40. Took the handle off, sanded and refinished the handle, polished the bolts, and wire wheel the metal frame..









Coat of my famous ( or, infamous?) Witch's Brew on the sanded handle. About half of the nickel plating was gone from the bolts, they shined up as brass ones









Apparently Worth did not use medallions on their saws..









May have to stone one side of the teeth..









As it wanted to turn to the left. Dollar was spent for both this saw and the keyhole saw.


----------



## DLK

Looking good. What will you do with them?


----------



## DanKrager

Warren, I've made several wing nuts like that…unintentionally…by over torquing them. I'm putting my money on that square.

DanK


----------



## bandit571

Not sure WHAT I'm going to do with a Butcher's saw…yet….


----------



## warrenkicker

I just got a wavy Craftsman logo on a Craftsman 78 that I just picked up. It should do ok but my Stanley is built better.


----------



## DLK

The "craftsman 78" I have is identical to Stanley 78 I have.


----------



## Mambrax

the small square is uber cool !!! Excelent !



> Cleaned up a couple of my finds from last week. Neither of them have manufacturer markings but the square has patent dates and the bevel has an unusually wing nut that has angled and offset wings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - warrenkicker


----------



## DLK

Are lever caps of this type:










interchangeable within and across tool makers. For example will a Stanley 220 Lever cap fit a Miller falls 57 will it fit a Stanley 60 1/2 and so on. If not how do you tell them apart.

Received today a box of 3 block planes, Maroon Stanley, MF 17, MF 75.


The MF-57 has a yellow lever cap from I would guess a Stanley two-tone. It also has a Stanley blade.
The MF-17 has a broken lever cap
The Maroon Stanley is complete, but needs cleaning.

So I need a couple of lever caps I guess. Easy to find a supposed Stanley 220 LeverCaps.


----------



## bandit571

nhplaneparts?

Have to watch out though…..make a note of the width of the caps you need. I have a 220 with a too narrow cap, somehow. Front edge of the caps changed as well. Some have a space for a decal to sit, others just have a wide area to deflect shavings with.

Sargents had a different lever than the Stanleys or Mills Falls. Longer and skinnier.


----------



## DLK

Checked nhplaneparts. He has a couple rough Stanley ones for $8.95 that he says will fit fit a 9¼, 15, 16, 17 and 220. I think will also fit MF17 and MF57, But I found a very clean lever cap for a Stanley 220 for $10.95 that I think will work. Need two more. So looking for a deal now and hoping I get lever caps that will fit.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Needed a lever cap for a 40 1/2, couldn't find one so I made one from brass. Followed Derek Cohen's guide for making lever caps and screw. I've long admired the things he comes up with. The screw parts are all epoxied together. Derek goes over everything in detail.

Sorry, don't have a great before shot. It was pretty dirty and somewhat rusty, dumped it in the electrolysis bucket, repainted, got a thicker blade and it works great. Never had a real scrub before, works so much better than my makeshift 5.

Raw material









Was going to top the screw cap with brass but decided to use a nickel, sanded/filed it down









Getting there









Done!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Awesome Restore, CT !


----------



## ToddJB

Nicely done!


----------



## Tim457

Very nicely done Colonel. What is that knurled fitting you used? And did you epoxy it on to the other bolt or something? I'm having the worst time finding knurled thumbscrews partly because I don't want to pay more than their cost to ship them. I think it's cool you made one.


----------



## dogmir

Fantastic work. I have a #40 I bought without a lever cap. It had a crude substitute made out of steel but the design is not very good although it is functional. This seems like a great upgrade. Thanks for the inspiration.


----------



## Mambrax

Love it ! i should get going on my #40 restoration !


----------



## BurlyBob

This is my first entry to this topic. I picked up this No.8 type 17 a couple of years ago at a flea market for $35. I spent an afternoon using a brass wire wheel getting off the surface rust. I was amazed that the Japanning was virtually all there. The rust wasn't all that bad but the nick in the iron was horrendous. I think I spent 6-8 hours getting it out and sharpened up . I can't remember which is original to the plane the tote or knob. I scavenged one or the other from another plane so the wood matched. I'm sure it's far from a perfect restoration but I'm satisfied with it to this point. Maybe you folks can give me some pointers on how to improve it. I've got 2 dozen other planes that need some attention. Any advice would be much appreciated.


----------



## Tim457

Solid effort Bob, that's a great save. What else do you think you could do to it?


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

A+ in my book, Bob you already went the extra mile.


----------



## bandit571

This is going to take a wee bit of time….









The plane is a #3 size, the brace is a 6" sweep. Yankees are a bit long…

They are soaking at the moment. Came out of a moldy, old cellar.


----------



## ToddJB

6" brace. Cool. I've been keeping my eyes out for one. I've only seen one in the wild and the dude wanted $70 for it. They're not common, but dang man.


----------



## bandit571

That one cost me…$0.25….......


----------



## BurlyBob

Thanks Tim & Turtle.  I tried and was just looking for more experienced advice instead of my crazy ideas that come to me whilst I'm staring a the ceiling at zero dark thirty.


----------



## ToddJB

> That one cost me…$0.25….......
> 
> - bandit571


If it's excess to your needs I'll give you 60 times that to ship it to me.


----------



## HokieKen

Looks pretty darn good from here Bob! Only thing you didn't mention if you lapped the sole and tuned the chipbreaker to make sure it makes good contact with the blade all the way across. If you haven't done those things, they may improve performance.


----------



## bandit571

> That one cost me…$0.25….......
> 
> - bandit571
> 
> If it s excess to your needs I ll give you 60 times that to ship it to me.
> 
> - ToddJB


Might wait until I get it cleaned up. Center handle has some dry rot…..


----------



## BurlyBob

Kenny the sole lapping is a work in progress. As far as the chip breaker. It's almost as tight as a frog's butt. You know how tight that is right? It's water tight! If it wasn't the frog would sink.


----------



## bandit571

That #3 plane is a Fulton. Sargent made? Have it almost done.

The brace? Ratchet mech is locked up. Letting it soak awhile. Top knob is also frozen, letting it soak up some PBBlaster as well, no rush. Aligator looking jaws, with a pin for a spring. Haven't found any markings…yet.

The Yankees? A No. 130A and a No.131 A Stanley. May go back in the morning, and pick the other two Yankees….IF they are still there…


----------



## bandit571

Sorry, Todd, seems this is just another 8" sweep brace..









Measures out at 4" on the arms. As for the Fulton plane..









Not sure how further I'll take this restore..









But the iron is stamped as a FULTON Warranteed.









Even the large hole is at the top of the slot.


----------



## ColonelTravis

> Very nicely done Colonel. What is that knurled fitting you used? And did you epoxy it on to the other bolt or something? I m having the worst time finding knurled thumbscrews partly because I don t want to pay more than their cost to ship them. I think it s cool you made one.
> 
> - Tim


Agree with you about ordering. This way you can customize it any way you want. The knurled part is from a brass garden hose nozzle I got at Ace Hardware. I circled the part that I cut off with a hacksaw.










Couldn't find one of these nozzles anywhere else except Ace that had something just the right size. Cost about $7. I like it because it gives you three tries if you're a total dunce and mess up the first two. Fortunately, I did OK on the first cut. Copied exactly what Derek Cohen did for his lever cap screw, and I recommend you check out his page on making a lever cap because it's very thorough and all I used. Again - big thanks to him, great source of knowledge like others here.

But in a nutshell - I put a nickel on a paper plate, put the knurled brass ring on the nickel, dropped in the bolt (had to sand down the side to make it fit, I wanted a screw thicker than 1/4, 3/8 seemed too big, 5/16th was just right for me) inside the brass ring and centered it, then poured in epoxy until it reached the top of the brass ring. You're just making the whole thing upside down. My bolt/screw isn't brass, it's brass colored steel. Plated with zinc? Think that's right. Whatever - it's the brass-yellowish-coated steel, not brass. Didn't feel like ordering a single brass screw, couldn't find anything local that was 5/16.

If you do this, make sure you follow Derek's instructions of taping off the knurled ring and the screw threads because it is a PITA getting epoxy off those parts, if not impossible. I got a little on the knurled part. Most of it came off but not all of it. It's barely there, can hardly see it, I'm not gonna bother making another one.

Also, if you put a "button" on top of the screw like my nickel, when you sand it down it will get hot if you use a power sander, and the epoxy can melt and the nickel will fly across the room like mine did. Derek said - keep a cup of water nearby to cool it off. Dumb me didn't do that. But I epoxied it back on and was more careful.

Derek said his epoxied thumbscrews have held up for years. If they fall apart, it's not hard to make another one.


----------



## ColonelTravis

> Kenny the sole lapping is a work in progress.
> - BurlyBob


Great restore! I feel your pain on this #8 lapping. I *hated *doing mine. Not a strong dislike, it was a hate. But I love my 8, one of my favorite planes.


----------



## Tim457

Awesome thanks for the details. I read a lot of Derek's stuff but I missed the link to that.


----------



## DanKrager

Question, CT. Could that assembly be soldered?

DanK


----------



## ColonelTravis

Interesting question, Dan. I'm sure you could solder/weld something together easy for a cap screw but I don't know if that would work using Derek's way? I've soldered 2-3 things my whole life. Here's a closeup photo of the screw after the epoxy has cured - you can see all the space that the epoxy filled up. It's 3/16" from the edge of the brass ring to the outside of the screw threads. It's like filling up a very tiny bucket. If you're able to fill that space with solder then I guess you're good to go.

I defer to solder experts, I am not one of them, sorry.


----------



## bigblockyeti

I actually thought it was soldering initially, it wouldn't be hard to do but you would need a torch.


----------



## HokieKen

I bought this Atlas 6001 off Craigslist last fall for $25. The guy was selling it for scrap but it turned out to be in good shape with a good motor. I worked on scraping the beds, fence and ways for a while and then it just set in the garage for a few months while I worked on other stuff. Then ToddJB posted his Delta jointer restore a couple months ago which motivated me to take time and get this 70 year-old baby into service. It had most of the original parts except the motor had been replaced with a nice 1hp Dayton 120/240. The pot-metal fence brackets crumbled so I had to make some from aluminum bar until I can find some original ones. The lever to lock the fence was missing and the cam rod was broken where it attached so I flipped the rod around and used some jam nuts, a socket, a magnet, a jig knob and a wing nut to get by until I can either find or make replacement parts. The stand is original but I added the mobile base.

New cutterhead bearings, new cutterhead pulley and new knives were the only expenditures. The knives were the original ones but the had been ground and shimmed so many times I decided to replace them. Took a lot of elbow grease and spray paint but I think this is now the tool I'm most "attached" to. I tried to match the original color for the most part but went a little wild n crazy and splashed some red on the pulleys and porkchop. The motor wasn't grounded so I replaced all the wiring and added a paddle switch. I plan to close in the dust chute and add a port for dust collector but that's going to have to wait until I finish a couple more projects.

Thanks for looking!


----------



## donwilwol

That came out fantastic. Nice save.


----------



## DanKrager

That is as inspiring a restore as any of the others! It's heartwarming to see an old machine come back to life with a little TLC. Gives me hope…. 

DanK


----------



## TheGreatJon

Excellent work on the jointer! Looks like its ready to work for another 70 years.


----------



## ToddJB

Awesome job , Kenny. Came out great! Is it a 6"?


----------



## HokieKen

Thanks guys. I spent a few hours today milling some cherry for a project. I never thought a jointer would save me that much time but I was sooooo wrong! The #7 is likely to be spending a lot more time in the till!



> Awesome job , Kenny. Came out great! Is it a 6"?
> 
> - ToddJB


Yep, 6" Todd. Thanks for spurring me to action with your sweet potbelly!


----------



## Mambrax

Fruitful week-end picked stuff. Which bring bring to one question : is their a good source to identify Stanley levels ? Those are so nice, i'm curious to know more about them. Thanks.


----------



## Slyy

Posted this on that "other" thread. My '38 Duro 30" scroll saw. About a year in the progress.
Before









And back to the original-ish silver/gray


----------



## Tim457

Nice job on that. The paint looks really good, what color did you use?


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## Slyy

Tim, most stock pics I found of this made it look like a shinier (perhaps metallic) version of the vintage delta machine gray. I used Rustoleum hammered silver over gray primer. For some reason though, I never got the hammered effect out of this paint. I've used the hammered gold for my Cman lathe and upcoming Cman bandsaw with good effect though, so not sure why this one didn't come out that way. All the same I do like how it turned out and seems a decent match to what I've seen.


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## TheGreatJon

Nice job on the scroll saw. The silvery motor especially gives a cool industrial look to the whole thing.


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## Tim457

It picked up the texture of the cast underneath it and I think that looks good for a vintage tool. Doesn't look over the top shiny and new. Not that there's anything wrong with that either.


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## HokieKen

Very nice scroll saw Slyy. The paint job came out great!


----------



## bandit571

Results so far from last weekend. These are some of the rusty & Krusty items









The two Stanley Yankees did not need much done, the other two? Keep reading..








Inside this $13 Treasure chest…

















There were two more braces, I also picked an eggbeater drill that weekend..soo









Three braces from the weekend. I will need to do abit more wore on the eggbeater, tough









The handplane was a Fulton, in a #3 size…..rather old though..









Made after the horseshoe adjusters, hole above the slot, large depth adjust of steel, Iron is stamped "FULTON" Warranteed









Not too bad a haul?


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## BoardCop

> This is my first entry to this topic. I picked up this No.8 type 17 a couple of years ago at a flea market for $35. I spent an afternoon using a brass wire wheel getting off the surface rust. I was amazed that the Japanning was virtually all there. The rust wasn t all that bad but the nick in the iron was horrendous. I think I spent 6-8 hours getting it out and sharpened up . I can t remember which is original to the plane the tote or knob. I scavenged one or the other from another plane so the wood matched. I m sure it s far from a perfect restoration but I m satisfied with it to this point. Maybe you folks can give me some pointers on how to improve it. I ve got 2 dozen other planes that need some attention. Any advice would be much appreciated.
> 
> That restore is amazing Bob! You've been talking about it for a couple years, I'm glad you got it done. Very nice work!!
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## BoardCop

Sorry guys! Didn't mean to bump anyone! The Fulton looks awesome! The electric planer is night and day! Just so much talent!


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## Mambrax

BoardCop : look sweet ! the #8 are hard to come by (still looking for one !) and you did a great job putting that beast back to shape. Can't wait to see the next one !


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## TheTurtleCarpenter

Disston #7 that has been cut down. The Medalion (1896-90) is an anomaly as the date surrounding the keystone is reversed, see here: http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/funnymed.html

The handle was dried out and cracked so bad that I soaked it in BLO for a day and let it dry out slow (about 5days). As it was drying I cleaned and buffed the plate and ground down the old 9ppi rip and went back with 14 ppi rip hybrid.

I thought it would be a good saw to keep around the bench and I'll be keeping a look out to find a full plate to bring it back close to original.


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## HokieKen

Nice Turtle! That handle is nothing short of gorgeous! I was looking at a 26" Disston in an antique store yesterday thinking it might be nice to cut it down to a large tenon saw size for crosscutting. Now that I see the shape of this one, I may have to go back and pick it up.


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## Tim457

Bob's probably off saving the world somewhere, but his ears are probably twitching at the mention of dried out wood being saved by BLO. That sure looks nice Turtle, interesting bit on the medallion too.


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## TheTurtleCarpenter

Ha ! ^^^^ probably fighting a few fires. Thanks Guys !


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## bandit571

Ok, this $3 eggbeater drill, marked as a GranIt Tool Comp. of New York, Germany









Looks a bit bedraggled…well, finished up the clean up today…









Not too bad..









Kind of a small eggbeater, compared to a Millers Falls No. 2-01…..


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Nice Job Bandit !


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## Handtooler

Quite a wonderful pair!


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## ColonelTravis

I love this thread.


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## Mambrax

nice job on those drill !!!


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## Mambrax

No 45 restore (sorry no before pictures,i know… I'll try to get better at that). Digg it out of a barn floor. Was horrible shape. Turned out ok.
cheers,


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## Mosquito

Looks pretty good now!


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## TheTurtleCarpenter

I think you went above normal on the 45 Mambrax, Tons of nooks and crannys. Looks Great !


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## DLK

Bandit and Mambrax very Nicely done.


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## DanKrager

That 45 restore is a GREAT save! I can picture the before quite clearly having dug things out barn floors before.

Those drills came a long way too, Bandit.

DanK


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## Mambrax

thanks, for comments. The worst part was the petrified racoon poo to remove out off the 45. the good part is i only paid $15 dollar for it (down to $100, after explaining that "yes, for sure that can worth that, but poo free…"  )


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## ColonelTravis

> Turned out ok.


Uhhhhhh, no. Turned out GREAT!


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## DLK

Mambrax: Did it have any cutters with it?


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## Mambrax

I found about a dozen scattered around. Missing many, specially the narrows dado ones. If any has extra let me know, i got plenty of stuff to trade ! )))


----------



## DLK

> I found about a dozen scattered around. Missing many, specially the narrows dado ones. If any has extra let me know, i got plenty of stuff to trade ! )))
> 
> - Mambrax


I will look and let you know. I think I have some extra dado cutters. (Just nearly spent a fortune completing box 1 of cutters… inch by inch.) I just could not imagine him asking $100 unless there was a box of cutters too.


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## Mambrax

Thanks, much appriciated.


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## MikeUT

I finished this one a while ago but I forgot to post it. This if one of my favorite planes right now, I love the size of the bigger jointers and it works really well. I posted a few more photos on this blog post. http://lumberjocks.com/MikeUT/blog/90050


















Why use a #7 when you can use an KK8 or a 608?


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## Mambrax

beauty !!! sweet !


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## donwilwol

That's a nice set of jointers Mike!


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## Mambrax

could somebody point me to direction to how to take a Miller Falls #120 a part, please ? The shaft is totaly stock and don't turn due to dry out grease.
Thanks !


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## DanKrager

It sounds like the 120 can use a good bath in a penetrating fluid like Blaster or the old faithful 50/50 ATF/acetone mix. If you can remove the wooden parts I would. I don't see the need to struggle to take it apart before it comes apart relatively easily after soaking for up to 48 hours. Something like a bread pan that is deep and narrow would allow you to prop the handles out of the fluid if you can't get them off. This will get you started anyway.

DanK


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## Mambrax

Thanks for the tips. The wood part came a part easily, the problem is that some one used motor oil to lubricate… 40 years ago. so i got solid moto oil crust. The main challenge will be to take the drive gear and shaft out (that's the one that stuck) to clean properly.


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## bandit571

Do like my Dad used to, when he was working on cars…..soaked in gasoline, stiff brush to move the gunk off the parts.


----------



## bandit571

Ok, I got this drill a while back, paying $20 for it, too ( yep, not one of my better days)









Sometimes, they just won't bargain on price….finally got it all presentable to Polite Company..









To shift from high speed to low speed, you have to pull the crank out, and re-install in the proper hole…









This Millers Falls No. 120 is a biggie….









Sitting in front is a Millers Falls No. 2-01…biggest eggbeater I have.

Oh, BTW, that Champion hammer from the tool box find? Handle was full of cracks, so a new handle was installed today..









The other two items were yard sale finds…..


----------



## Mambrax

Looks great Bandit !.
I'll definitely try the gasoline.
Thanks,


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## DanKrager

I have a Dunlap breast drill that looks very close to that MF 120 you got there. It was in good shape when I got it years ago, and brought it out to place among the users a couple years ago. You got that one all spiffied up!

DanK


----------



## bigblockyeti

Bandit, I don't know where you're finding them or whose arm you're having to twist but many of those finds would represent nearly free in my area. I especially like the latest breast drill, I've been looking for one for a while and something in that kind of shape is usually around $50 - $75 and without much wiggle room. Needless to say, I'm still lookin.


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## warrenkicker

> Do like my Dad used to, when he was working on cars…..soaked in gasoline, stiff brush to move the gunk off the parts.
> 
> - bandit571


That is the only solvent for cleaning we ever used when I was growing up too. Cheap and effective.


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## bandit571

Dad used to have a beat up metal drain pan. He'd use it to also change the oil. He'd put maybe a pint, maybe a quart of gas in the pan to clean the parts, long handled brush. When he got done for the day, he'd take that nasty smelling pan outside to the Poison Ivy growing alongside the back fence behind the house. It had a way of killing the Ivy, and not much else.

I took the side handle down to the shop a bit ago. The 1" x 30" belt sander was used to reshape the handle. I don't have the required stain, so a mix of 3in1 oil, and a few spots of red enamel paint was rubbed into the wood. Needs to be a bit darker, but it will do for now.

Yeti: And now you understand why I am called Bandit…...


----------



## DLK

So how did you get rid of the gas smell from the tool? Particularly the wood?
(Post a picture of the new reshaped handle … on the other thread.)


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## donwilwol

I still use gas or diesel a lot. Its handy and works well. Regular soap and water will get rid of the smell. I wouldn't use it on the wood if you can help it, the smell will be harder to get out.


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## bandit571

As for that re-shaped handle









According to the logo..this drill was from before the move to Greenfield, in 1931. Made somewhere between 1927, and 1931. 
Kind of completes the set?









Does one hang these as handle up, or by the chucks?


----------



## Mambrax

Stanley No40 that came from the same barn as the No45 from earlier. Obviously the previous owner was worried about his tools disappearing as every single part is marked.. 



























Plus a couple of stuff in the works.


----------



## CFrye

Bandit, here's a display I really like…









If I recall correctly, the chucks are clamped on to the shaft of cutoff wheels.


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## DanKrager

That is a good way to display the egg beaters, Candy. I was going to suggest that eyelets clamped in the chuck make a good hanging hook.

DanK


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## bandit571

I have overhead, exposed ceiling joists in the Dungeon Shop. It is after all in a basement. My saw till is hanging up there. Maybe a rack of some sort, with a notch for right behind the chuck?

That No.5 in the front….it needs to be cleaned up, as well…..maybe tomorrow?


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## bandit571

Ok, all hanging up..









1 breast drill, 4 eggbeater drills, two braces…..rack is now full…


----------



## CO_Goose

> Ok, all hanging up..
> 
> 1 breast drill, 4 eggbeater drills, two braces…..rack is now full…
> 
> - bandit571


That just means that you made the rack too small


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## MikeUT

I saw this beautiful repair/restoration while rummaging through an antique store. Sadly, I cannot claim the restoration as my own but thought I'd share it anyway so you all could appreciate the beauty and Craftsmanship… I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that this plane didn't get a whole lot of use after this rehab.

Its a transitional plane where someone decided to put a piece of unflat sheet metal on the bottom and fasten it with about 1,387 screws. Most of them aren't flush but since it is a jack you don't have to worry about the dent lines it would create, you can smooth those out later.


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## ToddJB

Throw some wax on that sole and get to makin' shavings!


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## DLK

It may have worked well for whatever the h*ll it was used for. That is to say there was a reason behind adding a metal sole they way the did. Some sort of scraper I imagine. Maybe even not for wood.


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## Mambrax

superbe ! Like new !


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## Slyy

1954-55 12" 2-wheel Bandsaw.


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## TheGreatJon

Nicely done Jake! I love those stands. What paint did you use to replicate the "Power Bronze"?


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## theoldfart

MUT, must have been for shaved steak!

Jake, WOW! I have the same base on my table saw, it never looked that good.


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## TheTurtleCarpenter

Sweet rehab on that neglected Craftsman, Jake.!


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## bigblockyeti

Jake, that saw turned out really nice, how does she perform?


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## Slyy

Thanks all, certainly needed a bandsaw and glad this was the one that found me.

Jon, per many suggestions (and now two of my own tools) I'm using Rustoleum Hammered Gold. It's very close to the original color, though it can sometimes be hit or miss on reproducing the hammered effect.

Yeti, motor runs smooth with very little noise, doesn't brake down super quick after shut off, but not very slow either. Unfortunately, my Corgi tripped me up going into the garage a couple days ago while I was carrying the lower wheel. It cracked! Luckily purchased a replacement from a guy at OWWM.org and should be here tomorrow or Wednesday.
Prior to rehab though, it seemed to run just fine, even with the likely original rock hard rubber tires.


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## donwilwol

Mike, I'd love to hear your plans for the plane!

Very nice work Jake!


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## Brit

Fantastic work Jake. It looks better than new!


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## TheGreatJon

> Jon, per many suggestions (and now two of my own tools) I m using Rustoleum Hammered Gold. It s very close to the original color, though it can sometimes be hit or miss on reproducing the hammered effect.
> - Slyy


Nice. That's exactly what I used recently on my Cman 100 drill press. Your's just looks a little closer to that original color. Probably just the light…. hmmm I should probably post up that drill press…


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## warrenkicker

I used a slightly different color on my RAS.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/88378


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## HokieKen

That bandsaw is a beauty!


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## MikeUT

I finished up this Stanley 4 1/2 sweetheart last night. There wasn't a whole lot to do on it besides take some paint off the tote. Other than that it was just some minor surface rust.

Before:



























After:


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## Mambrax

Nice piece ! Super cool !


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## TheTurtleCarpenter

Nice Job ! Mike !!, You wil Fall in love with the 4 1/2 if you already haven't. I am a glutton for 4 1/2's.

Here is my recent restore on a dollar chisel:


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## DanKrager

Turtle, that is one gorgeous "knife". Why does a carver want a double skew grind? I've never heard of such.

DanK


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## ColonelTravis

Great 4 1/2.

Turtle - what's the new and improved $1 chisel gonna be used for?


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

My mind wanders, I had a wild hair and thought if I could make a short comfortable handle for it that I could make a marking knife out of it. It might be useful for blind dovetails also.


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## DLK

I have only seen spear point chisels used for turning. Was it originally for turning? Is it stout enough?


----------



## bandit571

Almost done with one of these rusty things..









Handle needed a lot of clean up..









So, lots of clean up, lots of sanding, had to replace one bolt..









Had just a hint of an etch…..lots of rusty spots









Plate is stamped as a 10 ppi. Not sure if this is a D-7 or D-8 type of saw. Mid 1950s, handle has one coat, so far…


----------



## Spaltedcherry

Very nice Job at rehabilitating those old planes, here is my father's num.4 Woden plane that I rehabbed two years ago !


----------



## Brit

George Preston & Sons mortise gauge. 6 3/4" long. I don't think it has ever been used. A real beauty.

Before:



















After:


----------



## Johnny7

Boy, that gauge came out nice!


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## donwilwol

Good job guys. Lots of sparkle there.


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## putty

That is beautiful Andy!


----------



## HokieKen

Nice work on the smoother spaltedcherry. That gauge is a beauty andy!


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## Mambrax

Brit : superbe ! L.O.V.E it !!!!!


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## donwilwol

I don't have a before picture, so let me paint you one, I'll tell you what I know, but the rest is how I imagine it. I'd assume the original owner went to the woodshop in the sky. Leaving no one who cared about his tools. They kicked around for a while, breaking the tote and rusting up pretty good. Then a young wiper snapper of a tool guy comes along and dumps it in a tub of acid. Forgets it a couple of days and says "oh crap I better get that out". He hoses it off quick and thanks, ah, that's good enough to make a quick buck. Not even realizing he's just pitted it worse and its still rusting.

So along comes a fool like me and thinks, I need to save this old girl. So I add another "what was I thinking" to my ever growing "what was I thinking" pile.

But she's back. She'll proudly make shavings again.


----------



## Brit

Nice save Don


----------



## KelleyCrafts

> George Preston & Sons mortise gauge. 6 3/4" long. I don t think it has ever been used. A real beauty.
> 
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Brit,

Preston and Sons…can you tell me more about this? How do you know it's Preston & Sons? I have been trying to figure out what this is for awhile now. I have two of these. One is complete and the other is missing it's mortise pieces which I bought intentionally broken so I can use it as a regular marking gauge. I didn't want to lose the pieces to my complete mortise one.

In the U.S. we don't see these as often as you do so any info on it would be awesome so I know what I have and use.

Thanks, FYI…I really need to redo mine. I use them but haven't restored them yet.


----------



## Brit

*ki7hy* - I know it's George Preston and Sons because it is helpfully stamped into the rosewood. As you can see I need to do better cleaning off the excess Autosol. LOL.










In my humble opinion though, I don't really think that the name stamp proves that George P Preston and Sons Ltd made it, only that they sold it. I have seen the exact same gauge with James Howarth, Robert Sorby & Sons and William Marples on them and also with no name at all. I think it likely that William Marples manufactured this design of gauge and it was sold on to different tool manufacturers to include in their respective tool catalogues. A similar thing happens today if you think about it. Lie Nielsen Toolworks sells Auriou rasps and carving chisels on their web site and forge-de-saint-juery sell Lie Nielsen tools on their web site. The reason I think William Marples made it is because elements of the design can be found on other gauges that they have made over the years. I also have a pdf of the Wm. Marples catalogue from 1938 and page 79 shows the exact same gauge except that it has an ebony head.

Of course this is nothing more than a guess on my part, so take it with a pinch of salt.


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## ColonelTravis

beauty of a gauge, Andy


----------



## mako1

Here is one .I know this is not what you were looking for but my day job on top of the cabinet shop:
Very nice jobs on the planes and I'll do better next time sticking with the thread.


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## Brit

Thanks Colonel. I doubt it would be cost effective to make such a gauge these days.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

> *ki7hy* - I know it s George Preston and Sons because it is helpfully stamped into the rosewood. As you can see I need to do better cleaning off the excess Autosol. LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my humble opinion though, I don t really think that the name stamp proves that George P Preston and Sons Ltd made it, only that they sold it. I have seen the exact same gauge with James Howarth, Robert Sorby & Sons and William Marples on them and also with no name at all. I think it likely that William Marples manufactured this design of gauge and it was sold on to different tool manufacturers to include in their respective tool catalogues. A similar thing happens today if you think about it. Lie Nielsen Toolworks sells Auriou rasps and carving chisels on their web site and forge-de-saint-juery sell Lie Nielsen tools on their web site. The reason I think William Marples made it is because elements of the design can be found on other gauges that they have made over the years. I also have a pdf of the Wm. Marples catalogue from 1938 and page 79 shows the exact same gauge except that it has an ebony head.
> 
> Of course this is nothing more than a guess on my part, so take it with a pinch of salt.
> 
> - Brit


You probably did fine shooting the photos. However, mine are made of ebony and I have been able to determine where they were sold but no maker mark at all. Mine were sold by Henry Osborn at "Osborn. Newcastle on Tyne". From what I gather that has been torn down sometime in the 1980's but from what I can assess (and I might be very wrong) mine are from the 1800's sometime. So even though mine look exactly like that other than mine are ebony, they might be different. Mayb back in the 1800's they went to the local Woodcraft and picked up a bunch of marking gauge kits and decided to sell them. 

Mine are posted here: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/176106


----------



## Brit

Yes most of them that show up on ebay.co.uk are made of ebony, but the design is exactly the same. I believe gauges of this design were available from around 1890 until about 1940??? They are quite common in the UK, but most of them have seen better days. I have searched for a patent but as yet I haven't found one. I have been outbid on more of these gauges than I care to remember, so when the Preston came up in such excellent unused condition, I had to win it. In the end I got it for £22.89.

I'm surprised that there isn't a web site about the evolution/history of marking/mortise gauge designs. It would be an interesting study for someone. Not me though. )

We don't have all the best gauges though. This gauge made by Henry Disston is pretty cool and quite scarce.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

That Disston gauge is awesome. I was thinking of putting a gnarled knob on mine like that one for ease of use but haven't thought enough about it. Would be handy to not have a screw driver sitting around to use it.


----------



## TheGreatJon

This Craftsman 100 15.5" drill press was the first piece of machinery I dragged home to what is now a full woodshop. I was fresh out of grad school with a new baby and two mortgage payments, so there wasn't much budget for really any of the machines that I wanted, even beat-up used ones. One day there was a plant closure of a plastics manufacturer right in my town and they were auctioning off all of the equipment. I went with the hopes of bringing home a Delta 12/14 table saw that was on the listing.

The table saw went for $300, which was incredibly cheap, but still more cash than I had. I was pretty bummed, and determined to get *something*. Next on the block were a whole line of drill presses and I realized that a drill would definitely be useful. I got outbid on a string of drills, including a variable speed 17" Delta that looked to be in great shape for $80 (still kicking myself a bit about that one). The final drill was a hideous mass that was difficult to identify. No tags were visible and it was coated with a thick layer of grime and dust, not to mention an ugly cage over the top of the head. No one else bid and I eventually raised my hand to get it for $15.









This was after a bit of cleaning to remove the worst of the grime layer.

This is now…


----------



## Mosquito

That's awesome, I've got the little brother to that one (benchtop model).


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## HokieKen

Beautiful work TheGreatJon! I love those old DPs with the big organic looking cast heads.


----------



## terryR

Beautiful gauges, Andy! I have a secret tool for removing cleaner from lettering…pointed piece of pine wrapped in your t-shirt. I still plan to build a replica of the ?Preston, but the addition of a thumbscrew just makes sense to me.

Fine looking DP! I wouldn't give you $15 for my chinese benchtop model; guarantee I'll look vintage for the upgrade!

Any records on how much you invested total, GreatJon?


----------



## TheGreatJon

> Fine looking DP! I wouldn t give you $15 for my chinese benchtop model; guarantee I ll look vintage for the upgrade!
> 
> Any records on how much you invested total, GreatJon?
> 
> - terryR


Thanks guys. I used it in it's ugly condition for a few years, but I got tired of getting dirty every time I brushed against it. So, when a replacement feed wheel, with lever arms, showed up in the classifieds, the restoration began.

I think the feed handle cost me $30 with shipping, I got a 1/2hp craftsman brand motor and a stepped pulley for $50 total, and I think paint was about $10. Everything else, like the necessary tools, new fasteners, new wiring was stuff I had on hand. So I spent just over $100, plus a considerable amount of time and sweat. Definitely worth it.


----------



## Jhwill

I found the square in a box of screwdrivers at a flea market for 50 cents. I been buying tools for the grandsons and I thought this will be a good test of my refurbishing. The odd thing is that it was right on square for its rough shape.


----------



## JayT

V&B 905

Before










After


















The rust was bad enough it had started to pit, but will still be perfectly usable. I couldn't find a good match to the original gray japanning, so just went with a nice looking color. Some day I'll find something that is close to the factory light gray and redo the body.


----------



## warrenkicker

Wow. That V&B looks nice. Wish I could find something like that. Oh wait…..

Nice job on the restore. Hope it serves you well. If you are coming down 135 to watch South to play at Carroll on Friday wave at me. I'll be the back judge official at the football game.


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## TheTurtleCarpenter

You did that V&B Proud JT.! It would be a joy to find one with all the Nickel plating intact.

Warren: Friday Night Lights, my favorite time of the year.


----------



## Brit

Nice restos guys. Carry on.


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## donwilwol

Well done guys.


----------



## bandit571

Not so much as a restore









More of a case of removing all the #


Code:


#

# Clearcoat the fellow puts on his wares. Got it all spiffified up









Has a Keen Kutter logo stamped by the chuck. Otherwise, this is the same as a Millers Falls No.1054









6" sweep. Cost me about…$25. Not that great a day….


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## donwilwol

A Birmingham block a little to far gone to not do a full restore.


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## Brit

Looking good Bandit. Nice useful brace.

Don I applaud you. I would have took one look at that plane and told myself it was not worth the effort.


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## JayT

Nice, Don. I agree with Andy. While it's a cool block plane, I don't know if I would have wanted to undertake that one.


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## Buckeyes85

I converted a set of old chisels I found on ebay to butt chisels, ground them to work better for dovetailing, and turned new handles. if you are counting, there is one more chisel in the "after" photo. I wanted a 1/8 so I got an orphan 1/4 and ground it down.

I started to restore the box but haven't finished that. I made a rack for them to go into my Pekovitch-inspired cabinet I hope to get done someday.

The wood came from woodcraft - out of the boxes of 1×1x12 turning stock and I cant remember what it was. Finish is garnet dewaxed shellac and wax.


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## HokieKen

Nice job Buckeye. My OCD won't abide that single brass ferrule though! ;-P


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## DLK

Were they Nooitgedagt chissels? If so they are the ones I use for paring and dovetails.


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## Brit

Some measurements and details for Terry.

This is as far as the maker intends you to break it down.










The head of the gauge is made of best quality rosewood, but most of them are made of ebony. The brass faceplate is 3/32" thick and the brass insert is 1/32" thick. The thread of the bolt fits through a clearance hole and the head of the bolt fits in a counter-bore. The head is elliptical in shape with the major axis measuring 2 11/16" and the minor axis measuring 2 1/8". The head (including faceplate is 1 ¼" thick. The hole for the stem is ¾" in diameter centered in the ellipse.










The inside of the bolt hole is square and recessed sufficiently to loosely accept the square nut but close enough to prevent it from turning. I've got no idea how they cut the square hole because I don't think you could even get a drawer lock chisel in there.










The floating brass locking plate sits on top of the square nut.










The assembly looks like this when inside the head.










The brass locking plate mates with a 3/32" wide groove in the stem and is shaped as shown below.










The stem is made from brass tubing. The outer diameter is 47/64" (1/64 under ¾") and the internal diameter is 35/64". The brass tubing is press-fitted with brass end caps that are slightly domed on the ends. It is possible that they are screwed in but I think it more likely that they are pressed in. The maker definitely did not intend the end caps to be removed anyhow and I'm not about to take a pair of mole grips to them to find out. The total length (including the end caps is 7 5/8" long. When the pins are adjusted to their minimum width the brass stem balances at its mid-point.










The hardened steel pins are 1/6" in diameter and protrude from the brass stem by 1/8". They are sharpened to a point. When fully open, the distance between the points measures 1 5/16". When the moving pin assembly is closed tightly against the fixed pin assembly the distance between the pins is 3/16". Since I can't disassemble the brass stem I've got no idea what is going on inside I'm afraid, but here's a few more photos should you need them.





































Hope that gives you some inspiration.


----------



## Brit

Nice chisels Buckeye.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Brit you're going to make me get off my rear and restore mine with those pics. Again, excellent job.


----------



## HokieKen

Thanks for the thorough description Brit. I was considering copying that gauge and was wondering about some of those dimensions. I've come to the conclusion that the head on most marking gauges is too thin to suit me so the thickness of that one drew my attention. I also LOVE the thought of a "keyed" round beam and not having to chop fraggin' mortises. :-/


----------



## terryR

Andy, Thank You for taking the time to post that! What a lovely gauge.

I like how the brass locking plate contacts the milled groove in the beam. Was certainly wondering about that groove. Only way i can imagine that square hole being cut is from the top, then covered with wood and the brass plate? Lots of challenges to study on that build. A mill will be needed to cut the groove in the beam, I've tried and failed miserably attempting that.

Maybe time to shop eBay.UK for one of me own? LOL.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Terry they aren't too spendy over there. I love using mine. The heft alone makes it easier to use than a modern marking gauge.


----------



## Buckeyes85

thanks for the comments on the chisels. The only markings on them are "SW Drop Forged Germany" dont know whether that means anything or not to anyone.


----------



## DLK

Hi all concerning replacing marking gauge pins Paul Sellers recommended here to use 1/16" diameter piano wire. So I ordered some. I thought I ordered one 36" strand. Instead I got 15. So In total I have 540 inches out of which I only need maybe 2 inches. If anybody want some let me know.


----------



## Aidan1211

This one turned out nice. It was a lot of work to get her cleaned tuned and sharpened but as you can see it was well worth it!


----------



## Aidan1211

Is that marking gauge a Preston? It's stunning!!!!!


----------



## HokieKen

No plane is quite as purrdy as a Millers Falls and that's a beauty Aidan! Is it a 9 or 10? If it's a 10, I'm more than a little jealous.


----------



## Aidan1211

Ken it's an 8 and available if you're interested. I also have a 10 that's not been done up yet that's available.


----------



## HokieKen

I don't need the 8 but definitely interested in the 10. PM sent.


----------



## Brit

Yes it is Aidan. George Preston and Sons.


----------



## WoodenGhost

Hey Guys,

I stumbled upon this spokeshave last weekend and couldn't pass it up for $3.50. Never seen one of these in my life so I was pretty exited. Unfortunately the iron is cracked in two so Ill have to see what I could use for replacement.




























Cleaned up!




























Thanks for looking.

GhoSt


----------



## HokieKen

Friggin' sweet Ghost!


----------



## DLK

If you ever find another p.m. me! I went to high school in Syracuse and semi-collect E.C. Stearns when I stumble across them.


----------



## DLK

Here is one for sale $129.99 on eBay.


----------



## jwmalone

I stopped at a yard sale and got this Stanly 220 for 5 bucks. Didn't do a total restore yet just cleaned it up, sharpened the iron and its a nice little plane. The sole is flat and the checks are square. any idea of age?


----------



## DonBroussard

Beautiful spokeshave, Ghost! Cleaned up mighty nice!


----------



## terryR

Wow, that Stearns is beautiful.

jwm, we need to see the stamp on the iron to guess the age, assuming the iron is correct to the plane.


----------



## jwmalone

Heres the stamp terryr, best pic I can get? Stanley made in use.


----------



## terryR

jwm, here's a link for details about the 220 in general,

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan14.htm

The length of the plane, and width of the iron could be clues to an early model?

Also, here's a link that lots of folks use to type their bench planes,

http://www.rexmill.com/planes101/typing/typing.htm

I don't think Stanley followed the Type Study as far as block plane construction is concerned? Anyone with more knowledge, please correct me! LOL! I believe they were built from off-the-shelf parts when available, so could be a mix of different ages for each of the parts.

Unfortunately, that stamp was used by Stanley from 1933-1967 on bench plane irons, so may not be so useful in dating your actual plane.

Sorry, I was hoping for another stamp on your iron.


----------



## jwmalone

Thanks Terry, I've gotten some good info from Don W and Aidan along with lots of other guys on here. So far I'm up to 7 plane s with a Stanley #45 on the way. The block planes seem to be a lil harder to date, but I bought every thing so far to be users, I just like to know the background if possible.


----------



## donwilwol

http://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/27/block-plane-dating/


----------



## jwmalone

Thanks Don, I check your sight often. but the 220 seems to confuse the hell out of me? So far I've determined its definitely made in the iron age  Probably 1930-19??


----------



## donwilwol

if the blade is original, it's 1935 or later

Edit, sorry, wrong link

http://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/27/stanley-cutter-dates/


----------



## bandit571

Means I have a 1912 to 1918 block plane iron…that needs a block plane to sit in…1-5/8" wide. 









9-1/2?


----------



## jwmalone

Maybe Bandit, the bench plans I kind got down, the 220 is killing me. it looks just like that one but as Don said the stamp means 35 or later it is 1-5/8 wide. I'm going with 35-55?? The adjustment knob on mine has the holes around it. Hell I don't know but it is fun to figure out. I see how you fellows got hooked on it.

One question guys, when I look on those dating sites and it refers to model being stamped behind frog starting this date or made in U.S.A stamped behind tote starting this date. Does that refer to all Stanley planes, block, bench what ever?


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

*JW*, the depth adjustment knob was changed in 1930 to a solid knob with knurled edges, so the pre 1930 was larger and had holes as yours does. You can date the blade but many have been changed out.


----------



## jwmalone

Thanks Turtle, that's what I've been looking for. You know the thing seems to have been used a lot but well cared for. All the japaning is WORN (not beaten) off the hood. And the knob is also very worn, and has tape around it. The cutter despite the rust does not seem to be as used if that makes since. Its edges are to clean and crisp, and if it was ever sharpened the guy was a pro. But it may be an older knob on newer plane now ive got a better starting point. I don't like going by the cutter.
Thanks.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Something crawlled into my coffee cup and I'm scared to grab it. !


----------



## Aidan1211

Shoulda been brandy!


----------



## bandit571

$6 rust Hunt this morning…









Cleaned up fairly nicely..









For scale…square is a Stanley 10", with patent date. Thumbscrew is solid brass on the large bevel gauge. The small one just has a lever to lock it in place


----------



## jwmalone

Bandit , I'm jealous, pretty sweet!!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Very nice score Bandit, they practicaly give them to you !


----------



## WoodenGhost

> Friggin sweet Ghost!
> 
> - HokieKen


I know right!? Its a pretty cool looking spoke shave. Can't wait to retro fit a blade and try it out.



> If you ever find another p.m. me! I went to high school in Syracuse and semi-collect E.C. Stearns when I stumble across them.
> 
> - Combo Prof


Going out this weekend antique shopping, Ill see what I find!



> Beautiful spokeshave, Ghost! Cleaned up mighty nice!
> 
> - Don Broussard


Thank you sir!


----------



## Meldge

Hi All,

Long time lurker first time poster… It isn't much but here is a Table Saw I got a while back that I cleaned up.











I hope to make a new table setup for it with a DIY Beisemeyer fence and Router setup on a wing. I have since removed the guard as I needed to cut some rabbits, I had a go at making a new guard arrangement that takes no time to attach as the current setup needs re-alignment EVERY time which is annoying. I think I will just stick to DIY inserts with splitters, we'll see.

Jigs and sleds is where it's at, I will be attempting those shortly.

Thanks,

Meldge


----------



## HokieKen

Welcome to the site Meldge! Fantastic job cleaning up that table. What kind of saw is it?


----------



## Meldge

Thanks HokieKen, it is a TSC-10RAS made in 2005. I can't tell you much more than that, I bought it 2nd hand.
Motor is mounted under it as opposed to out the back. Fence is terrible, doesn't lock parallel and the adjustments seems to do nothing about it.

A new fence system will fix that. The blade is parallel with the T-Slots though so that's a good start. I replaced an Irwin blade with a Freud 10-60 fitted but I want to get a 10-50 so I can get flat tipped teeth for rabbits and dados.

Thanks,

Meldge

PS, just checked your Crosscut Sled HokieKen, nice ideas incorporated into that.


----------



## HokieKen

> Thanks HokieKen, it is a TSC-10RAS made in 2005. I can t tell you much more than that, I bought it 2nd hand.
> Motor is mounted under it as opposed to out the back. Fence is terrible, doesn t lock parallel and the adjustments seems to do nothing about it.
> 
> A new fence system will fix that. The blade is parallel with the T-Slots though so that s a good start. I replaced an Irwin blade with a Freud 10-60 fitted but I want to get a 10-50 so I can get flat tipped teeth for rabbits and dados.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Meldge
> 
> PS, just checked your Crosscut Sled HokieKen, nice ideas incorporated into that.
> 
> - Meldge


Thanks. But there are things about that sled that didn't work at all over time. If you're considering building one with some of those features, PM me first if you want. I can help you avoid some pitfalls and offer some suggestions for improvement.


----------



## DLK

So what do the letters in TSC-10RAS stand for? Apparently not radial arm saw. LOL.

It seems to be made by the Taiwan company Mao Shan Machinery Industrial , which I never heard of.
Do they make good tools?


----------



## Meldge

Combo Prof, I don't know what the RAS means to be honest. I have found the Mao Shan company before and I have tried finding the manual only to be told people have deleted this version of the manual from their sites. I don't mind, I'll deal with issues if they arise.

This is my first table saw to own and even my first to use so I can't compare it. Everything seems to be inline and straight, the fence is just a shame in how it locks and the adjustments seem to do nothing. The motor is nice and strong and the table seems flat so I'm happy enough.

I can't comment on their other stuff.


----------



## TheFridge

Radial Arm Saw


----------



## DLK

> Radial Arm Saw
> 
> - TheFridge


Nope. Check out Table Saw TSC-10RAS | Mao Shan Saws Machines Its not a radial arm saw so the RAS means something else.


----------



## CFrye

It's Taiwanese. It may stand for *RADIO* ARM SAW! 
;-)


----------



## CFrye

It's Taiwanese. It may stand for *RADIO* ARM SAW! 
;-)


----------



## DLK

> It s Taiwanese. It may stand for *RADIO* ARM SAW!
> ;-)
> 
> - CFrye


 Really awesome saw


----------



## TheFridge

Durp. That's what happens when I don't read previous posts.


----------



## BurlyBob

I've got a couple of questions and I'm looking for some direction. I'm working on a bunch of planes I've managed to acquire. Two of them are giving me fits, a #7 and #6. The 7 has a cup from maybe 1/2"-3/4" behind mouth
6" long. I spent hours on a 60 grit belt and I've even taken a file to it draw filing it down. It doesn't effect the performance it's more the looks that get me. As for the #6 I'm thinking it's a bad casting. The sole for the most part has this weird splotchy pitted pattern to it. I've kicked the idea of putting it on my stationary belt sander but I've had chatter issues on a couple of other planes. If anyone has advice for amore efficient method to flatten these planes I'd really appreciate learning about it.


----------



## JayT

Bob, from what you say, I wouldn't worry about either one. A slight hollow behind the mouth of the 7 isn't going to hurt anything. As long as the toe, heel and front of the mouth are coplanar, it'll perform just fine.

Same for the #6. If the pits/casting voids don't have sharp edges and aren't affecting performance, I wouldn't worry about them.


----------



## BurlyBob

Here are the problem children. The first is the #6 with funky sole pattern.









These two are the #7 I mentioned and another #6. Why another #6…it was to cheap to pass up.










Thanks Jay. I very well may take your advice as I've been fight these 3 all week. Here's another question. flat to I want to make the #10. Wall to wall or is a raise on the outside edges acceptable. I'm into that one maybe 4 hours. Good thing I'm retired and don't bet paid by the job.


----------



## bandit571

Using way too fine sandpaper, for one thing. Save the fine stuff for getting a shine at the end.

Toe, both front and back of the opening , and the heel need to be coplanar. The rest? Meh. Edge a bit high? Meh.

Bottom two look close enough to use as is. Can't tell about the first one.


----------



## HokieKen

What they said Bob^. The hollow on the bottom two planes isn't a problem. Especially since the edges aren't hollow. As long as the toe, heel and right in front of and behind mouth are planar, you're good-to-go!

The one with the funky sole appears to be flat? If so, roll on. I like to rub parrafin or bees wax on my soles after dressing. It'll fill in the pits and help with future rust. As long as those pits aren't leaving marks, it's a user. If you just can't stand the appearance, I'm afraid you're best course of action is to keep rubbing on wet/dry. The sole castings are too thin for me to feel comfortable putting a good plane on the belt sander.


----------



## ksSlim

www.supergrit.com
Selection is great and so are pricing.
They sell a quartz abrasive belts made for heavy metal removal in several grits.
Worth a look as they've always done well for me.


----------



## DLK

> Using way too fine sandpaper, for one thing. Save the fine stuff for getting a shine at the end.
> 
> - bandit571


He said he is using 60 grit. Is that really too fine?


----------



## bandit571

Maybe the belt has clogged up? Maybe clean the belt to see if it is too worn down. Then maybe add a bit of oil to the belt….


----------



## donwilwol

Sharpen the blade and put them to work. They will work fine.


----------



## BurlyBob

Thanks for all the advice. I'm thinking I might be a little to picky, wanting a perfect finish. Think I'll follow the majority advice here and put these to work. That makes 4 down and 22 left to work on.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

As always, no before picture. This one has been staring at me for a year or so from the shelf whispering *me next*,but I looked at it as losing value if I scrubed away the rust. It is a pretty nice 62 but not perfect as it has the chipped mouth as the biggest majority do have. I look at it as a user if its not pristine so off the shelf for a clean and tuneup. It has pretty decent japanning, about 90%, a unbroken tote, missing front eccentric lever and small chip out of the bottom of the knob all in all not too bad of shape. I repaired the knob, made a new lever, trued the sole and side and polished everthing up. Now it does its job like a new one.


----------



## theoldfart

Shavings look like there's no problem! Good thing the chips are on the backside of the mouth. Great plane to find Turtle.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

KEVIN, I thought about having a friend of mine braze in the mouth but its so thin at the front I felt it could effect the remaing thin edge. It seems to have good support as is and cuts just fine.


----------



## terryR

That's a beautiful plane, turtle!


----------



## CO_Goose

A friend at work has a favorite garden trowel that she had used for the last 15 years. She asked me if I could put a new handle on it. Here are the before pictures:



















Woodcraft had 6"x2"x2" maple turning blanks for 25 cents, so I bought several and used one for this project. First I turned it round, drilled a hole for the blade, and epoxied on a copper pipe end cap.










Then turned it to shape and finished it with shelawax.










Then pounded the blade into place, with epoxy for good measure. 
Here is the result, she was very happy.










A fun little project that gave new life to a tired old garden tool.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Beautifully Done Goose !


----------



## donwilwol

I believe that's the first restored garden trowel. Looks good.


----------



## Ajs73

May not be for made originally for woodworking
but I guess it can be. Not even sure what it is,
Thinking a drill press but Idk. Has a nice solid vice
on it though. Weighs 27 lbs. not sure wether I'll 
repainted or not, or wether I'll keep or sell. Btw,
picked up at auction for $1


----------



## DLK

I used to have a similar gizmo, but newer model. It was for turing a portable drill into a drill press. This one looks more substantial then what I had and intended for metal. But It looks like you could put any portable drill in it that has a way of locking the drill trigger on. A quick internet search and I only found a Ryobi drill that mentioned such a feature. I think the trigger lock has been deemed unsafe. So you may have to rig up something for a newer drill. I have used an Irwin quick clamp on my Dewalt.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

I finished up the Ohio tool Razee surgery and decided to put it on the projects format : http://lumberjocks.com/projects/271154


----------



## DanKrager

Turtle, do you actually USE that beauty?

DanK


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

. Probably wont see much work Dan as I dont do much furniture type work anymore. I mainly fill my spare time collecting tools and cleaning rust from under my nails these days. But, it has fed into me wanting to build a few more to see where it takes me.


----------



## summerfi

You've been holding out on us Turtle. Who knew you had such talent on your hands.


----------



## onoitsmatt

Really fine looking plane, Turtle!


----------



## DLK

Very nice plane Turtle, such talent. I am humbled.


----------



## terryR

Very impressive!


----------



## HokieKen

That is a beauty Turtle!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Thanks, I Appreciate all the comments guys,


----------



## bandit571

Spent $5 on three items today..









Saw looked like the best of the lot..









Cleaned the saw up today..









26" long, skew back, crosscut. Open top handle.









Brass bolts are cleaned up, and clocked. Handle has one coat of BLO/Varnish mix applied









Medallion is a "AAA" Atkins. saw is a 7 ppi. Tried to find an etch…...never showed. One small crack in the handle, one divot. Not too worried about either. 
tape measure didn't need anything done, the 1" wide chisel is still a work in progress..









Maybe tomorrow on it?


----------



## CFrye

What does "Open top handle" mean here, Bandit?


----------



## bandit571

Later on, saw makers were making a closed, or Cover top handles Where the kerf cut no longer came up through the top of the handle. Supposed to keep the weather ( rain) from getting down inside the handle.

This one, the kerf cut for the plate comes up through the top of the handle.


----------



## bandit571

Hmmm, that saw came from the same sale as this machine









I didn't get the Belsaw thing, but I wonder IF the fellow ever used it on the Atkins saw I got from there.

Didn't have the space, nor cash to pick the Belsaw up. Nor the grinder that was with it..









Been nice, been no room at the Inn, for either of them.


----------



## CFrye

I finally completed a restoration! A Stanley No. 116 Mitre Box. If you want, you can read more about it here.
Before:









After:


----------



## HokieKen

Well done Candy. Does the saw in your "after" picture work with the miter guide though?


----------



## CFrye

Thanks, Kenny. Yes, it does.


----------



## Brit

Great job Candy. Looks better than new.


----------



## DLK

If I am restoring a smoother to be a user for someone else, should I repaint it?


----------



## donwilwol

What's it look like now?


----------



## DLK

At the moment it looks like this:










(100% better then before.)


----------



## JayT

That much japanning gone, I'd strip and repaint it.


----------



## DLK

O.K. Ugh… more pro bono work. :-(


----------



## donwilwol

I'm with JayT.


----------



## DLK

I've become friends (as some of you know) with an old Fin wood carver. He wants to learn how to use wood planes and had 3 hanging up in his garage. Quit rusty. A smoother, a jack and a jointer. I finished restoring the smoother for him a 4-th quarter of 1942 Stanley number 4.

*Befor:*









*After:*









*Shavings:*









This was among the most difficult planes I have had to restore. The blade has enough pitting I think he should get a new one. But I have managed to get it to work.

He did give me a nice cherry log 12" by 16" quartered out of which I will carve at least one ladle.

Next I will work on his jointer a "number 7" made by Sargent.


----------



## adot45

Picked up a Stanley level and am going to try to doll it up a bit. I have the top level and mount out and the 2 side level vials and the metal adjusting mounts out…my question is, do the two brass inserts come out (on the other side) without taxing the wood or just leave them in and work around them? According to the book I got from Don W the level is either a 25, 30 or 50. It's 30 5/16 inches long. I'm leaning toward a 50. Here are some before pictures.


----------



## Mambrax

that's a nice level !!!


----------



## adot45

Thank You Mambrax, I hope I'll be able to do it justice.


----------



## adot45




----------



## donwilwol

Nice job


----------



## adot45

Thanks


----------



## Handtooler

Very nice restoration on the level Clock the screws if they will tighten just a tad.


----------



## adot45

Clock the screws? Something to do with orientation? Direction?


----------



## bandit571

All slots pointing the same direction….


----------



## Handtooler

Make all the slots point in the same direction. Usually 0-180 degrees or 90-270 degrees.


----------



## Brit

Lovely level. Personally I wouldn't worry about clocking those tiny brass screws. They will easily shear off in hardwood and then you'll wish you never tried.


----------



## adot45

Well, I agree there would something inherently pleasing about having all the slots "lined up" but there is also something satisfying about seeing all eight screws, regardless of their direction, instead of just seven due to an unfortunate break of the soft brass…..also, a pet peeve of mine is damaged slot heads which would be about as unsightly (to me anyway).

Thanks for looking at my level and for the comments. Next for me is an old Stanley Four Square block plane and I promise to keep more with the spirit of the thread and not to go so heavy on the pictures.


----------



## TheFridge

We like pictures


----------



## DLK

Another restoration for my Finish Carving friend Pekka. A Sargent 418 Jointer.

*Before:*









*After:*










*Shavings:*










Just his Jack plane to go now. But I have to wait from when he returns from his "Spring pole lathe lessons" in Grand Marais.

P.S. I don't know why the photos are turned 90 degrees. It never happened befor.

P.S.S. Thanks to Fridge (see below) rotation is now fixed.


----------



## DLK

.


----------



## TheFridge

You have to rotate to any direction that isn't correct. Save pic. Rotate to proper orientation and save again. That's what works for me.


----------



## DLK

That is very weird. I'll try it. That worked. Bizzare. Thanks Fridge.


----------



## HokieKen

Nice work Don that's a beauty.


----------



## Brit

Well done Don, another tool saved from the scrapheap.


----------



## adot45

Very nice! Great looking old plane.


----------



## DLK

Thanks Pekka had these two and a third hanging up on hooks in the back of his garage. I suspect that have seen a lot of moisture and little care over the years. I will instruct him on how to care for them and to store them in his carving shop. I'll be giving him a lesson on jointing boards on Wednesday and will pick up the Jack that needs restoration (looks like maybe a craftsman made by Miller Falls… but we will see.)


----------



## 33706

Hey, Don K, what is this "Grand Marais" that you speak of?


----------



## DLK

It is http://www.grandmaraismichigan.com/


----------



## 33706

Thanks, Don K, I was hoping for Grand Marais, Manitoba. Oh, well..


----------



## DLK

Well I assumed Michigan, but I will aks him again on Wednesday when I see him to deliver the planes.


----------



## DLK

A Stanley 112 mostly done.

*Before*









*After*









*Shavings*









I make a new tote later, but she is good for now. Next a K4.


----------



## donwilwol

I love the #112!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Looking Good DK


----------



## adot45

Beautiful job…what a great looking old tool.


----------



## Tim457

Nicely done. Can the tote be repaired well enough?

A 112 is another on my list of wants. I'll find one eventually.


----------



## DLK

Thanks. Don W, TheTurtleCarpenter, adot45, Tim.

Tim: The tote is only partially split through and is held together with a little screw. I could not easily turn the screw 
so there maybe some epoxy or something in there. Possibly I did not apply enough force, but was worried it would break and be worse if I did. The brass tote bolt nut sits a little proud too. So if I did a repair I think I would have to shorten the bolt. Thus I think a new tote is required. (Well I could add to the top I suppose.) It would be my first complete new tote should I choose to make one and that might be fun.

Incidentally this restoration was a lot easier then the No. 4.

I did give it a soak in a bucket of Evap-o-rust, to make sure I got the rust if any out of between the plates that support the blade. First however I had it nearly clean and polished and sole flattened prior to the soak. It was all shiny but the Evap-o-rust restored the patina and it looks good to me.

I bought it from Adam Burrous ([email protected]) who has an enormous pile of planes he may have another
now. You can e-mail him to see. I though his prices fair but not a super bargain, certainly better then ebay or antique store.


----------



## DLK

Did anyone make a lever cap for a scrub plane (Stanley 40 clone)?


----------



## TheFridge

Col Travis i believe


----------



## DLK

A K4 restored.

*Before:*










*After:*










*Shavings:*










*Keen kutter mark under the rust :*










*Notes:*

I found it very difficult to dial in. Any tips for dialing in a bedrock?
Both tote and knob needed repairs.
Blade was hammered.
Lever cap was painted gold.
The nut for the knob screw did not fit the tote screw. Threading was different. Maybe there was an earlier "restoration".
There is a small crack near the mouth, that was hidden under all the rust. Its not all the way through and I don't think it will effect performance.


----------



## adot45

Looks very nice, great job and hope it turns out to be a good user.


----------



## Tim457

Great job cleaning that up, looks great. As for dialing it in, it's hard to tell from the picture, but it doesn't look like the blade is parallel to the back of the mouth so it seems like the frog is misaligned. That could entirely be perspective in that picture though. How cleanly do the two mating surfaces for the frog and the base match? Could check with Prussian blue or similar if you wanted to.

The picture makes it look like that crack does go all the way from the mouth to part way up the side of the cheek. Is that possible? If so it's possible that extra flexing is causing issues.


----------



## DLK

It does look in the picture that the blade is not parallel. And the crack does go as you say, but does not go all the way through…. I think. I will have another go at tonight and see if I can figure out whats happening. As you can see I do make shavings. For the record it only cost me $5 and a couple of hours.


----------



## donwilwol

I've never had to do much to dial in a Bedrock. What's it not doing right?


----------



## DLK

O.K. I know issue now. The cap iron has a twist/bend in it and does not fit tight and square to the iron on the right side. Not quite sure how I'll fix that. It works fine when I substitute from a Stanley 4. Also the crack that enters one side of the mouth exits on the diagonal opposite side of the mouth. So …. maybe I should not use it.


----------



## DLK

She be right now!










A little peening fixed the chip breaker on this K4.


----------



## adot45

I picked up this Sargent bullnose 505 for $10, the poor little thing was in need of some help.


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent. You don't see to many of those Sargent bullnose 505!


----------



## adot45

Thank You Don, you are right about that, I hardly ever see Sargent's at garage sales, flea markets, etc…..


----------



## 33706

Here's a Marshall Wells Hardware "Zenith" transitional plane which I got recently. Usually these get put in the back storage area but this one really called out to me:










It was recently posted to the "Joys of Rust Hunting #4" thread. http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/41460

So I scattered it and refinished all surfaces and came up with this:




























It was refinished in cordovan and butternut, similar to the Stanley "Two-Tones" of the period. I really like the combination, but it can be returned to black in an hour, if necessary.

I might do a blog on this later. Hope you like it!


----------



## HokieKen

That finish is stunning poopiecat! And heck with the black, that color scheme works well with that plane.


----------



## Handtooler

Amen to that color scheme being right! She's a real beauty. Bet she works great also?


----------



## DLK

> So I scattered it and refinished all surfaces and came up with this: ....
> 
> - poopiekat


What does "scattered" mean here? "to go in a different direction as in to your house"


----------



## 33706

Thanks for the cool comments, guys!

*Don K:* Well, scattered is a term that mostly motorcyclists use, when a minor problem results in putting the bike up on the coffee table, yanking the motor, and disassembling it on the kitchen table. Just because one wrist-pin retainer was making a clinking noise. Well, not that bad here, I just took the whole thing apart, and separated the mountain of cast iron parts from the mountain of wooden parts, from the anthill of tiny fasteners, to give an organized approach to refurbishment.

*HokieKen*: I'm fully in favor of the old-fashioned 'Alkyd' enamels. They are slow-drying, allowing for impressive settling and minimal brush strokes. Alkyd is full-bodied, with lotsa pigment. Tough as nails when it's fully dry. I use ground glass as sandblasting media, which leaves a gritty surface, and when I can't burnish I put on two coats, but I've used sealer-surface primer and/or spot putty to get the metal surfaces smooth as glass before topcoats.

*Handtooler*: I'll be putting it through its paces in a few days, but probably it will end up in the glass showcase with the others that I just don't have the heart to use. Trailer Queens, that's what becomes of 'em!!

Mostly the whole point to this is that you can easily turn a forlorn, forgotten plane back to its former glory. And use it if you want!! Don't be misled by that Blood and Gore guy, who sees only fireplace fuel in these Transitional planes!! 
Here's the blog for more details: http://lumberjocks.com/poopiekat/blog/96290


----------



## corelz125




----------



## donwilwol

excellent!!


----------



## adot45

Very nice looking plane, really saved that one.


----------



## GlenintheNorth

> Yeah. I here you. I never have as of yet. I do think the MF # 26 description fit my block plane to a tee even up to the nickel plated cap iron so for now I m convinced until anyone can prove it wrong. I might find some of my own shave tree wood. I got a hunch it s somewhere around my sharpening station.
> 
> - KPW


I haven't read in the thread past this point, but I've made an effort to study the stuff MF made for Sears.

The 107-37032 was indeed a #26 rebranded for Sears. However, the 26 itself was discontinued before sears began to require the three-digit oem codes. During the time MF made the 26, Sears went from requiring nothing to the two-letter codes. "BB" was used for MF-sourced planes and other tools. The 107-37032 I have been only able to narrow down to the 1960s when Craftsman began using the crown logo as MF made an entire series of corrugated cheek planes that matches the font on this block plane. Great users.


----------



## corelz125

I always see hope for an old plane


----------



## HokieKen

Here's a Millers Falls 22CB jointer I picked up on eBay at a steal. I blogged the entire restoration in this series. I still have to write a wrap-up post but wanted to show it to y'all first 

Before:


















And after:


----------



## bandit571

$1 garage sale find, back in july..The two Yankees cost a bit more…









Old Fulton #3. Was even worse off than this, I had to clean off all the yellow fuzzy mold on the handles.

Finally got a handle to fit the back end right, got the chipbreaker tuned up, and most of the red stuff cleaned off..









Even made a few shavings…









Sargent made for Sears…..


----------



## ColonelTravis

Awesome job Hokie - did MF use Phillips screws on their larger planes? I've got a 9 but it's the normal slot.


----------



## WillliamMSP

Wow - nice restore on that MF.

The MF Type 5 planes, the last in the line, used Philips head screws - that and the conventional lever cap (as opposed to the three-point caps commonly associated with the top-tier MF planes) are the easy way to spot T5s.


----------



## HokieKen

Like William said about type 5 Millers Falls^

The type fives also have black frogs and no red on lever cap. They lack the frog adjustment screw and have steel depth adjuster screws that aren't recessed. Also most lack any branding on the iron and "Made in USA" on the base casting. This one has both indicating it's an early type 5.

After doing this plane, I will avoid the type 5s from now on. I don't mind any of the above things but I found the quality of machining and fitting to be severely lacking on this plane. On my earlier MFs, it's impeccable.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Thanks for the info.

I missed PK's transitional plane until now, just spectacular


----------



## 33706

Thanks,* Colonel*!
Just in, a Kunz #6 in that pukey chartreuse green. Pics coming. Though I'm not a fan of Kunz tools, this one might be next into the body shop. Wondering if it should be re-colored, though there was a Mopar shade of green quite similar in 1970, either Sassy-Grass Green or Gang-green, depending on make and model.


----------



## 33706

A follow-up to my previous post. This is a Kunz #6, first pics are as it looked when it arrived:



















the newly blasted sole:










and a couple of 'after' pics:




























I found that John Deere green and yellow, when mixed 3 to 2, is a close match to the original Kunz snot green.
Regrettably, the plating on the lever cap was flaking off, and it appears to be due to insufficient prep at the plating factory. So it got blasted off and resurfaced with a 3M deburring wheel. 
A nephew wants to come over and learn how to sharpen his knives, we'll put an edge on this one too. I have low expectations on this plane, but it might surprise me!

Hope you like!!


----------



## Tim457

You sure have a love for the unlovables, nice restore. I think you matched that green awfully well too.


----------



## DanKrager

PK it looks like that blaster took a lot of the tedious work out of the restore! Nice. I have mixed feelings about Kunz' choice of color (I am a green person) but you made this "thing" look very good. 
DanK


----------



## terryR

PK, what media did you run in your blaster? Restore looks great…except I think John Deere green should be reserved for Ag Equipment! LOL.


----------



## 33706

I'm truly flattered to have gotten the attention of the LJ board of directors here! Thanks for your great comments. 
*Tim:* Though I like mopars, having had quite a few, I had a strange passion for unlovable AMCs. Wherever I went with my '62 American, I could pull people away from looking at Camaros and Mustang GTs on display. Not sure if I know why I'm attracted to the offbeat… and maybe I don't wanna know!! *Dan:* Yeah, blasting sure makes short work of removing any coating, be it japanning, asphaltum or whatever, and as I found out, it will blow off chrome plating quite effectively, too. Typically, I'll use spot putty or sandable filler/primer/sealer to level out blasted surfaces. In this case, I didn't, as the cast iron surface was rather nice, compared to Stanleys. *Terry:* I use the cheapest media I can find, which in this neck of the woods is a 50 lb bag of "Greenglass" which looks a lot like coarse sand. It's $10 at an automotive store here. I run 90 psi with it in one of those discount-house sandblaster cabinets, and I really like it, even though it's far from perfect. The trick to achieving the Kunz green is to mix John Deere Green and Yellow together, but that smart car pic would be great for herding sheep down on the farm, LOL!! Izzat a Massachusetts license plate?


----------



## DLK

So how do you like Kuntz planes in general? I only have the 113, but have not put it to use yet.


----------



## chrisstef

Calling Dr Frued ^


----------



## HokieKen

> Calling Dr Frued ^
> 
> - chrisstef


 ROTFLMAO )


----------



## bandit571

Soooo, apparently, that Fulton I rehabbed was a Sargent No. 408? The knob was just a clean up, the rear handle was a honeycomb thing that crumbled when I tried to clean it up. Just a dollar bill at a garage sale..


----------



## 33706

@ *Chrisstef*: LOL, good one!! Of course, ol' Sigmund didn't hit his stride 'til he invented Freud Diablo sawblades…

But the planes? Yeah, I like everything smooth… real smooth…


----------



## DLK

Crap…. now you'll tell me first rub them with wax… LOL


----------



## 33706

> Crap…. now you ll tell me first rub them with wax… LOL
> 
> - Combo Prof


Yeah,but Don you have to go to the local surfboard shop to get the right wax…yeah, that's right, "Sexwax"


----------



## DLK

O.K. got it out of your system? Now back to my question:

So how do you like *Kunz* planes in general? I only have the 113, but have not put it to use yet.

How do they compare to MF, Stanley, Sargent, etc ?


----------



## donwilwol

> O.K. got it out of your system? Now back to my question:
> 
> So how do you like *Kunz* planes in general? I only have the 113, but have not put it to use yet.
> 
> How do they compare to MF, Stanley, Sargent, etc ?
> 
> - Combo Prof


I don't own one, but I've held a few in my hands. That should answer the question.


----------



## 33706

Don K: Glad to answer your question, but some of us think your misspelling was intentional.
Although I am not personally familiar with a large variety of Kunz planes, I do know that they are made with a gritty, granular grade of cast iron. This plane above is like a cheap knockoff of a Stanley, perhaps type 17 or similar. I've made negative comments about Kunz planes in general, much to the chagrin of one particular individual who really freaked on me. I think he was getting samples of a new iteration of Kunz planes built to target the upscale market. Where did they go?
I will say this #6 had some really fine machining done at the factory, especially the mating surfaces between the frog and bed. So there is hope. I bought this one because I'd never seen a Kunz #6 before. The original flaky paint blew off in less than 2 minutes in the sandblaster. The chromed lever cap was no better. As far as (presumed) German engineering and workmanship, well my wife's New Beetle was a pretty nimble machine even though it too was a piece of crap. 
I bought this plane at a price I could justify for the knob and tote and a few other piece parts. It was too good to part out, so I cosmetically upgraded it, and will sell it off sooner or later on eBay. If… I ever start selling off my collection. I must have five other number 6's that I would prefer with my top shelf favorites. And some are truly odd-balls, non-Stanleys. Oh, the #113 is a different cat, some are good, some not so user-friendly. You'll have to determine for yourself if your 113 is a keeper or not. Yours is an obvious copy of a Stanley, and at its age who knows!....

[Edit] I'm of the unverified opinion that Kunz was a product of the Germany reconstruction period, post-1945, when America re-invigorated the destroyed German industrial base, so they could get back on their feet again. 
I've never seen really old ones, and that color also gives it away. I'd guess…maybe they sprang to life in the late 1940's thru perhaps early 1960's. There's actually quite a number of odd planes inscribed 'Made in West Germany" which is a dead giveaway to that time era. Este, DRP, and even some Dunlaps were once made there.


----------



## Miataguy

> Wow - nice restore on that MF.
> 
> The MF Type 5 planes, the last in the line, used Philips head screws - that and the conventional lever cap (as opposed to the three-point caps commonly associated with the top-tier MF planes) are the easy way to spot T5s.
> 
> - WillliamMSP


That is a gorgeous plane…a bit jealous myself….


----------



## Miataguy

> A follow-up to my previous post. This is a Kunz #6, first pics are as it looked when it arrived:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the newly blasted sole:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a couple of after pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that John Deere green and yellow, when mixed 3 to 2, is a close match to the original Kunz snot green.
> Regrettably, the plating on the lever cap was flaking off, and it appears to be due to insufficient prep at the plating factory. So it got blasted off and resurfaced with a 3M deburring wheel.
> A nephew wants to come over and learn how to sharpen his knives, we ll put an edge on this one too. I have low expectations on this plane, but it might surprise me!
> 
> Hope you like!!
> 
> - poopiekat


Unlovable planes can be made to work quite well, and are usually quite a bargain.


----------



## woodcox

This one didn't need much. 












































I think it is a wartime no. 4. The only one of my Stanley's that didn't have rosewood. A swap was the in order so it didn't stick out like a sore thumb. A found rosewood set stripped back, sealed and polished made me happier with it's appearance. I will keep the stained hardwood knob and tote close by to keep it OG.


----------



## Mosquito

looks good Woodcox!

Fly-by before the holidays for those interested:

The 2017 Calendar has now been created and published!




  






More Info and Ordering Info Can Be Found Here


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## Miataguy

> This one didn t need much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is a wartime no. 4. The only one of my Stanley s that didn t have rosewood. A swap was the in order so it didn t stick out like a sore thumb. A found rosewood set stripped back, sealed and polished made me happier with it s appearance. I will keep the stained hardwood knob and tote close by to keep it OG.
> 
> - woodcox


...love WW 2 type 17 Stanley's, sole is less likely to crack, they have a little additional mass, and they seem to work very well. Have two #4 and one #5….


----------



## ToddJB

I like the knob holder set up, Woody. Looks like it works great, too.


----------



## DLK

Thanks Poopiekat. Good answer. No the misspelling was not not intentional and I was a bit miffed. However now that I see that it could have been interpreted as a clever intentional slight I can appreciate the comments. I regret buying the Kunz 113 and wish I had waited for a Stanley 20, but I have it now and hope I can make it work. But woodworking experiments has to wait until I return form OZ .


----------



## HokieKen

Another beauty poopiecat! Great work woodcox!



> I like the knob holder set up, Woody. Looks like it works great, too.
> 
> - ToddJB


Me too. Using the tapered fitting would keep me from having to search for the right size nuts and washers to keep it centered up. Stealing that idea next trip to the hardware store ;-)



> Wow - nice restore on that MF.
> 
> That is a gorgeous plane…a bit jealous myself….
> 
> - Miataguy


Don't be jealous, make me an offer! I've pretty much decided I don't need another jointer plane so I'm probably going to sell/trade it. I prefer trades so if anyone has a #6 (or equivalent) or a router plane or a rabbetting block they wanna offer up, I'm all ears!


----------



## JayT

> But woodworking experiments has to wait until I return form OZ .
> 
> - Combo Prof


You in Kansas, Don? Whereabouts?


----------



## woodcox

Just a little bit of copper pipe to seat on the top counter bore. The taper of the drill chuck fits inside the bottom of the tote nicely.


----------



## DLK

> But woodworking experiments has to wait until I return form OZ .
> 
> - Combo Prof
> 
> You in Kansas, Don? Whereabouts?
> 
> - JayT


No ….I am in Australia…. (Newcastle, Australia)


----------



## bandit571

At the top of the page, you'll see a stanley S-4
This is what he had to work with 









One of two planes I sold to DonW a long time ago….the other?









I had picked both at a garage sale. The old guy that sold them to me had painted all the iron works, a heavy Black colour. Even the bolts and pins on the 606 were painted..









Rear handle needed work, the front knob was too bad, though…









The "606" was on the rear deck.


----------



## donwilwol

Now.
.


----------



## bandit571

Looks much better now!


----------



## terryR

Very nice.
Don, what's that 76 for?


----------



## ColonelTravis

> Very nice.
> Don, what s that 76 for?
> 
> - terryR


I think it's like the Stanley compass?
I know for a fact it's for making me want it.
Terrific restore.


----------



## Johnny7

> Very nice.
> Don, what s that 76 for?
> 
> - terryR


That is Sargent's model number for that plane (like a Stanley #113)


----------



## theoldfart

Wow Don, that was a diamond in the rough!

Any shavings with it yet?


----------



## DonBroussard

Very nice job on the 76, DonW! It's hard to imagine that that nice compass plane was hiding under all that ugliness (but I'm not doubting your restoration).


----------



## donwilwol

Thanks guys. I've been waiting for one at my price point. This one actually came in below it.

No shavings yet Kevin. I'll need to find a curve to smooth sometime soon.

But really Terry, the #76 is just to make me smile!


----------



## clin

My first plane restoration, a Bailey No 3C, which I believe is a type 9 from 1902-1907. Used to be my grandfather's and who knows before him. He was a small boy when it was made. I intentionally went light on refinishing the wood. I wanted to keep as much grandpa mojo as possible.


----------



## donwilwol

Well done


----------



## Tim457

Nice, that japanning was in great shape under the grime.


----------



## HokieKen

Great work Clin. I'd bet Grandpa's mojo is fully intact.


----------



## clin

> Nice, that japanning was in great shape under the grime.
> 
> - Tim


That's not the original Japanning. Perhaps heretical, I did repaint that. I debated whether to do that or not. The deciding factor was that there was enough rust here and there that I couldn't easily clean the rust without removing more of the original Japanning. And then, I'd still have spots unfinished that would rust again unless I oiled them or otherwise treated them.


----------



## corelz125

Nice job on the 76 removing all the rust out of the creases and crevices


----------



## terryR

Trying to restore this little smoother, but when the temperature is above freezing I have farm chores to get done. Today is a great day to play with vintage tools, but it's in the 20's outside.

So, my question…

How do you guys in real cold spray paint during these temps? Inside the shop? Maybe a carboard box for the overspray?


----------



## ToddJB

I just try to breathe in really hard so the over spray doesn't get on my tools.


----------



## terryR

LOL.


----------



## HokieKen

What kinda *********************************** would do something like that Terry? Oh, wait…


----------



## terryR

Yeah, that's what I was thinking.
Now to get my shop over 40 degrees…


----------



## summerfi

Terry, I'm spraying poly inside my house right now. It's the only option, but at least it's clear.


----------



## terryR

Bob, if only my wife were at work today….........


----------



## ToddJB

Clear poly just means you blow invisible boogers.


----------



## 33706

A good *alkyd* enamel can be brushed on. It dries slow enough that the brush strokes disappear. Just do it in a reasonably dust-free area of your shop or basement. Same for clear poly, if you're doing the body of that trannie.


----------



## HokieKen

> Terry, I m spraying poly inside my house *right now*. It s the only option, but at least it s clear.
> 
> - summerfi


 Is anyone else impressed with how well Bob can type while he's spraying poly? ;-P


----------



## JayT

Are you implying he's accustomed to one-handed typing?


----------



## HokieKen

Ha!


----------



## summerfi

Multi-tasking…it's the only way to go.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Is that an 8 your're working on Kenny? I have a #8 to dump in the electrolysis bucket and repaint. It's also in the 20s in Texas, which is just stupid. Snowed today. I refuse to do anything in that kind of weather, except burn scraps in the fireplace. Most next week it will be 70s and at that point I will do stuff.


----------



## HokieKen

No, that's the MF22 I posted a few weeks ago in the thread. I just took that pic for my blog series so had it handy.

Wow, 20 deg and snow in Texas? Here comes Armageddon!


----------



## woodcox

My type 8? No 2 arrived this week from the Pacific Northwest. She has a lil bit of weather.


----------



## 33706

There's a point I'd like to make here, as long as we're talking about paint and poly. If your workplace at home is near your laundry room, please remember that your clothes dryer can suck in airborne vapors, and leave a hideous burnt smell on your clothes. Especially natural gas dryers, the combusted air combines with the fumes and that heated air gets pulled through the drum before it's exhausted outside. 
Fortunately, the odor can be removed by simply re-washing, but that is tedious! I avoid the laundry cycle until three days or so has passed since the last paint, poly or stain session has ended. Water-based products are not so much of a problem, just the oil based ones to watch out for.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job on the #2.

I'm pretty sure the last time I rebuilt a carborator or a Mauser on my kitchen table had a lot to do with the ability to build my shop.


----------



## whatwhat

My Millers Falls No. 16 block plane restoration. Really like the all steel look. Did they ever have brass components like the Stanley's?

I made a youtube video about it here.


----------



## DLK

> !
> So, my question…
> 
> How do you guys in real cold spray paint during these temps? Inside the shop? Maybe a carboard box for the overspray?
> 
> - terryR


Yes inside a cardboard box.


----------



## JethroBodean

Some of you may have already seen this on the Mitre Box of your Dreams forum but I wanted to brag to this group too! ;-)

Below is a Stanley 358 Mitre Box with a Disston 5×28 saw, that I bought from a farmer in the next community over. He claimed it has been sitting on the dirt floor of his outbuilding for at least 40 years; ever since it was given to him by the the widow of his next door neighbor. This was going to be my first attempt at bringing life back into an old tool.










Well after a lot of elbow grease, a few gallons of Evapo-Rust, several grits of wet/dry sandpaper and some spray paint, here are my results.










Then about a month after I bought the box, the same farmer gave me a call saying he found another Mitre Saw, which had been sort of buried in the dirt floor all along. It was mine for the taking if I wanted it; I was there in record time. It was a Simonds 5×28, but it was in real rough shape, especially the tote.



















No problem with cleaning the plate, I mean this was my second one, so I was now an expert. But what to do about the tote, I decided it was time to try making my first tote. Though a long ways from perfection, I'm still really proud of the final results.




























And when the dust had all settled I was amazed to realize that the etch was still visible!


----------



## Handtooler

Very nice saves on both saws and miter box!


----------



## Johnny7

*Jeff*
you really worked for those results-good stuff!


----------



## theoldfart

Jeff, I agree with the others. A dramatic save. I have a few of the Simonds mitre saws, they are really good saws.


----------



## CFrye

Well worth bragging about, Jeff!


----------



## adot45

Excellent job, enjoyed seeing your work.


----------



## HokieKen

Well done Jeff. Great saves on the saws.

Nice clean-up on that MF block plane whatwhat. I love my MF bench planes. I need to grab up one of their blocks and try it out too.


----------



## Timbo

This Stanley 113 been sitting on the shelf long enough, cleaned up today.


----------



## 33706

Well done on that #113!


----------



## DonBroussard

Nice job, Tim. Your "before" picture looks a lot like mine.


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent job Tim


----------



## Tim457

Very nice job. Did you take the pins and dovetail all apart or clean it in place?


----------



## Timbo

Thanks! It was a fun one to clean up.

Tim- I pulled the pins and sole off along with the frog, much easier to clean.

Anyone no where to find info on setting the frog properly? I set it so the blade was not quite protruding the sole with the depth adjuster about mid range.


----------



## Dennisgrosen

Niiiice work with that plane Tim

I have one myself just glowering at me from the shelf every time I enter the shop
I realy feel it saying to me WHEN IS IT MY TURN TO BE PRETTY AGAIN

hope you will enjoy it many years

Dennis


----------



## donwilwol

Sargent type 2 transitional rebuilt



















The whole story is here.


----------



## DLK

Very pretty.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Great save, Don. Really like how you restored that wood sole.


----------



## Tim457

That's really cool.


----------



## Handtooler

WOW! Quite a wonderful restoration. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## terryR

Very artistic,Don! That's a beautiful plane.

A plaine-jane Sargent 3407 here, late type,



















and,


----------



## Johnny7

*^* Tastefully executed, Terry


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

I myself can see why the old craftsman had such a hard time converting over to all metal planes. I feel the same way about them,

Don, most people would not have taken that plane to the level you have and you have ! Its a step above standard. I really like the clear finish .

Terry, awesome job on the Sargent


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent job on the 3407 Terry.

Thanks guys. Turtle, sometimes I just enjoy the challenge.


----------



## 33706

Great transitions on those transitionals, guys!
I find it more gratifying to bring these wood bodies back than I do on all-metal planes.


----------



## DLK

If a molding plane takes 3 days to travel from Kenmore, Washington to Houghton, Michigan how many days must sit in the freezer to kill the wood worm?

*Seriously:* How do you treat for wood worm?


----------



## DanKrager

Microwave works, but you gotta take all the metal off…

DanK


----------



## donwilwol

> Microwave works, but you gotta take all the metal off…
> 
> DanK
> 
> - Dan Krager


Even if you wear a tin foil hat?


----------



## DLK

Should I buy some wood worm killer?


----------



## DanKrager

You have to take off all the worms' tinfoil hats! You can leave yours on. LOL.

DanK


----------



## terryR

I have struggled with jigs and rubber bands to pull this off horribly. But, today, my leg vise said, "Dude, lemme hold that."










feel free to copy


----------



## HokieKen

That's some smart thinkin' there TR.


----------



## TheFridge

I'd be giving that leg vise 5. You just blew my mind terry.

I'm sure there a few out there who'd do it but I've never seen it and it seems like magic now that I have.


----------



## theoldfart

Well of course that works Terry.


----------



## donwilwol

So it's Terry Rigged!


----------



## woodcox

Ahem, jigged? Just a trial balloon.

Ima try it with my gramercy's


----------



## chrisstef

Well that makes a wholebuncha sense now dont it Terry. I love it.


----------



## Medici

Wow! Incredible work!


----------



## Mike54Ohio

Hello LJ'ers. Just recently joined after lurking for awhile and reading some of the forums such as this one. I recently retired and long story short-the urge to start with woodworking (which was germinating for quite awhile previously) finally rooted hard and before you know it-the slippery slope of old hand planes-hit me and I now have bought and cleaned up a few in the last month or so:










I will be posting the before and afters soon-any and all tips hints etc welcome

One current before and after I just did with a little background:










This little hammer head was my father-in-laws and I kept it after he passed away and one of my grandchildren always played with it as his hammer when with me. I decided it needed a real handle so:










using a cheap HF mini plane to shape it

and Voila:










Hope you like it


----------



## donwilwol

Welcome to the slippery slope!


----------



## terryR

Sargent 3411 Transitional Plane, has a 1902-09 cutter and this style frog,










before,









after new paint and shellac,


----------



## bandit571

Not sure what I am restoring here, but









Was a bit rusty..









When new, it might have been Nickle plate throughout..









And, it had this blade-like object inside..
After a bit of clean up, I laid a Stanley #70 beside it, for scale..









Still not sure about it. It does have a DEC (6?) 1915 Patent date inscribed on it..









Slotted set screws serve as pivot points..









Have not found any other markings on this. Scratch Stock? Each of the teeth on the cutter are different..









Handle has a bolt in the end, and threads into a spot made for it.


----------



## Mike54Ohio

A couple quickies for the thread, I will expound on the resto's in my blog eventually.

1st up a nice Stanley no 5 I picked up recently



















Vaughan & Bushnell no 3



















and finally sold on the bay as a Union no 4-but sure looks like a Sargent - Fulton (old fulton sticker remnants on handle) so I picked up a Sargent cap iron for it


----------



## Handtooler

WOW! Nice work on your part. Great find.


----------



## terryR

Sargent 3417 Transitional plane, Type 4 (1919-42)


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent job Terry


----------



## 33706

Always glad to see transitionals brought back to life, Terry! Nice!


----------



## Timbo

Looks good from here! Did you repair the tote or replace?


----------



## terryR

Repaired with beech from a Stanley transitional plane.

I have too many Sargent planes with the exact same break on the tote. They orientated the grain improperly at the factory, and the bolt hole creates a very weak spot. Lots of practice for me, I suppose?


----------



## HokieKen

I'm not sure why but I've always thought the Millers Falls multi-tools were so cool. Apparently a lot of other people do to 'cause I've not been able to land one for a decent price on E-bay in over a year and I've never seen one in person. I finally scored one last week from E-bay though for my budget )

It was in pretty good shape when I got it with the exception of some surface rust and some paint splatters:



















A little wire brushing and some buffing made quick work of the metal bits. I was planning to just get the paint off the handle and give it a little oil but the handle on this thing was WAY too fat to suit me. So, I chucked it in the lathe and used 80 grit paper to take the diameter down some then sanded up to 320. Three coats of BLO and voila! No idea what I'll end up actually using it for but I'm glad I can finally say I own one ;-p


----------



## Miataguy

> I have struggled with jigs and rubber bands to pull this off horribly. But, today, my leg vise said, "Dude, lemme hold that."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> feel free to copy
> 
> - terryR


I absolutely love the leg vise on my bench, it works fabulously.


----------



## Miataguy

> Sargent 3417 Transitional plane, Type 4 (1919-42)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - terryR


Amazingly nice restoration.


----------



## HokieKen

Here's a question for you guys . I just FINALLY scored a router plane for a reasonable price. Here she is:



















I'm gonna clean up the surface rust and lap the sole. The blade lock has been repaired but repaired well so I'll keep it. Obviously, it needs handles and I'll make a depth rod and find a thumb screw for it. I havent checked but I assume the threads for the handle are the "special" Stanley threads? I'll probably tap them out to 1/4-20 so I don't have to pay out the wazoo for special screws. I'm also thinking about purpleheart handles and painting it with engine enamel even though ut wasn't japanned originally. Obviously this will be a user 

So, see any sins in my plan to paint and rethread? If it had all the original parts, I'd try to keep it original for posterity. In this case though, I think I'm okay to "make it my own". Secondly, if you were me, anything you'd suggest to enhance usability? This is my first router plane.

On another subject, I'm stoked cause I just won a MF15 on eBay. It's missing the original 3-piece lever cap though. Anybody got an extra 2-1/4" MF lever cap they wanna part with? I'm also on the lookout for the side piece for my Stanley 140 if anybody has one of those.

Thanks gents!


----------



## DLK

I don't see the point in painting but its yours to do as you wish.
I bet a carriage bolt with a filed smooth top would make a good depth rod.
Many people screw on a wooden sole to make it glide smoother and to avoid metal to wood marks. So a depth rod never was necessary.
You probably don't need to lap the sole. It won't affect its use.


----------



## corelz125

Ken any mf 2 1/4 cap or just the 3 piece one?


----------



## HokieKen

Thanks Don! Only reason for painting is that I like the look better. Good idea with the carriage bolt but i already have some stainless bar for it that I'll use. I'm going to try using it for a while as-is but may end up with a wood sole on it after I see how I like it. Point in lapping the sole is to smooth out some gouges and clean it up moreso than perfect flatness. Thanks for the info though, I wasn't sure how much effect flatness would ultimately have on function.


----------



## HokieKen

> Ken any mf 2 1/4 cap or just the 3 piece one?
> 
> - corelz125


Just the 3-piece. It has a cap, I'd just like to put one of the originals back on it. Thanks though!


----------



## 33706

Here's a sad neglected #32 Stanley transitional I purchased on eBay. I knew it to be a 2 5/8 cutter despite it's short length. Somebody bobbed it to fit in a toolbox, or whatever, and due to its weight I'm sure there must be steel reinforcing bars inside the sole. Weird, not even sure what the purpose of those buttons were at either end!

I constructed a new bed out of beech and birch. I like to experiment with various colors for the iron hardware, and assuredly it can be recolored to black with no difficulty if it offends the purists.

And so, it became this:




























Metal parts were sandblasted and burnished, with most surfaces given the spot putty and sandable primer treatment to compensate for the typical Stanley rough castings. All the little iron bummercrunchies were filed away.

Knowing that these metal components were identical for #32 through #34 planes, I decided to go all out with the 30 inch base. That was the size I am lacking in my trannie line of Stanleys, (# 34) so I went for it.

*Hope you like it!!*


----------



## terryR

WOW, I like it a lot, PK. What did you use for a finish?


----------



## 33706

Thanks, *Terry!* You work on the Sargent trannie was impeccable!

This one is finished in "Rose Gold", a Rust-O-Leum metallic spray. This stuff will magnify any microscopic flaw in the surface, so I had to make sure it had a absolutely smooth finish. Just wanted to kick it up a notch or two, but I like authentic finishes just as much. Habitat was practically giving away those aerosol cans, so I thought I'd give it a try, as much as I dislike spray paint. One single coat of Olympic gloss poly over shellac on the body, too. Heck, the brush poly came from a discount store ages ago, with a 2001 expiration date, lol! I said I'd throw it out if it got bad… so far it's still good.


----------



## CFrye

Extreme plane make over! She's a real looker, PK!


----------



## 33706

Thanks, Candy! 
And Kudus to you for your awesome rust finds of late!


----------



## terryR

PK, I like the alt color!

A purist can re-paint it later when they purchase it from you.


----------



## 33706

Just another detail added today to the finished Stanley transitional above. Sorry for the dust!! I always wanted a #34, now I got one!!


----------



## CFrye

Looks great, PK! Ink transfer? Burned? I don't understand the Tool & Die part, though.


----------



## 33706

Aww *Candy*, you're right, I was like 10 minutes beyond the editing window, so there it is. This can be easily remedied, I already have the new graphics ready, I just have to wait for everything to thoroughly dry and then it will be done. Fascinating process, inspired by you-tube instructions. A mind is a terrible thing to waste!!

I'm considering whether to do a tutorial here, not that it is the kind of post that garners much response, but we'll see if it draws any interest.


----------



## Buckethead

PK it's looking glorious so even without responses, a tutorial would be worthwhile.


----------



## 33706

Ok… Text error corrected!!

Thanks, *Buckethead!! * I guess that tutorials help a lot of people, I don't know,... but sometimes I do question the value of simple altruism here!


----------



## CO_Goose

Stopped at the Local Habitat Re-store today, they have a cabinet where they put the vintage tools so they don't get lost in the rest of the clutter. In there I found this little plane.










It is a Craftsman 3732, which most believe is made by Sargent. It had surface rust, but otherwise looked to be in good repair. 
I tore it apart and cleaned it up. The blade was sharpened quite a bit and it was at a slight angle, so that took a while to straighten, and almost all of the paint is still on it. It cleaned up quite nicely.










Had to put it to work, Those shavings are .0015 in pine.










There is one issue left, the center pivot rod in the knuckle housing is bending, it appears to be a nail, what is supposed to go there?
Thanks for any help


----------



## CFrye

Tutorolize away, PK!
Nice clean up, Goose. Really nice shavings!


----------



## daddywoofdawg

should be a rod that goes across right about where the hole is


----------



## daddywoofdawg

Should be a rod that goes across


----------



## Handtooler

Yes, not a nail, maybe even stainless.


----------



## donwilwol

> Should be a rod that goes across
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - daddywoofdawg


That's definitely not Sargent made, almost looks millers falls. Id there a number on the iron? Show a better picture of the the center pivot rod in the knuckle housing that is bending


----------



## theoldfart

Looks to be a Millers Falls. You can barely make out the stamping entered on the lower outside cheek.


----------



## WayneC

> Looks to be a Millers Falls. You can barely make out the stamping entered on the lower outside cheek.
> 
> - theoldfart


I do believe that is a Stanley 65 clone. No rod on it. Compare to one on the right.


----------



## CO_Goose

Sorry for the confusion, I could see it just fine myself… It is a small rod under the knuckle cap, but fist some pictures.
Closeups of the side and blade markings.



















Closeup of the bed of the plane and adjuster, the number appears to be 356. The bed is 6 7/8" long, and 1 15/16" wide, the iron is 1 5/8" wide.



















Now, the pin in the middle of the two links under the cap is the one in question, is it correct?










A close view










It appears to be a nail that was clipped off and crimped with a washer to keep it from falling out. I am assuming that since it is rather severely bent, and bends rather easily now, which makes it hard to keep the iron from shifting, that this in not the correct part.

Also, any help on the original manufacture would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again everyone, I learn so much on this forum.

Goose


----------



## donwilwol

The BB is Millers Falls made.
I'd replace the pin with a harden pin if it will not stay straight. Someone may have just over tighten it at some point. If it is just a nail, then it will not be hard enough.


----------



## woodcox

Goose, both of mine have them and they are oe. One, my user, is slightly tweaked, the other has seen light use and is still straight. I suspect the post was set too low and overtly bends the pivot. Weak link to protect the castings me thinks. A harder pin could be used with diligence in your cap settings.


----------



## summerfi

I wonder if the CCC scratched in the side of that plane means it once belonged to the Civilian Conservation Corps. That would give it some interesting history.


----------



## HokieKen

Here's my Stanley 71 I just got finished with. The plating was rough so I sandblasted it and painted it with engine enamel. I turned purpleheart knobs and drilled and tapped the mounts for 1/4-20 threads and attached knobs with brass screws.

As purchased:









And now:


----------



## Handtooler

Magnificent rehab! I'm quite sure you'll get lots of use from it.


----------



## bigblockyeti

That 71 looks great! Is that an original iron or aftermarket? I picked up a 71 a while ago but it has no iron an I'm not stuck on OEM but I do want it to perform.


----------



## HokieKen

> That 71 looks great! Is that an original iron or aftermarket? I picked up a 71 a while ago but it has no iron an I m not stuck on OEM but I do want it to perform.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


That's an original iron that came with it. I believe the veritas irons fit ythe 71 and are pretty reasonably priced.


----------



## bigblockyeti

Thanks, I'll look into the Vertias iron.


----------



## WayneC

I'm getting ready to buy a set of Veritas imperial irons. I ended up with a Veritas router and no irons.


----------



## corelz125

Nice job on that 71 ken


----------



## warrenkicker

I worked to clean up the scroll saw I recently bought. Still don't know how powerful the motor is as it has no tag. The seller had no information on it. I finally found enough information to determine it is a 1934 Powr-Kraft that sold originally for $4.95.

I decided to not restore it but just to clean it up to usable shape. Especially on the bottom of the casting you can see the gray color but the rest shows a much darker color.

I replaced the board it is mounted on, replaced the cord, added a power switch, and sanded down the table. After cleaning and waxing you can now read some of the label if you squint.

I also noticed the machine marks on the table. The table is 8.5" in diameter so my guess is the surfacing cutter they used had a diameter of at least 40".


----------



## terryR

Looks great! The mill marks on the table are lovely.


----------



## MikeUT

I finished this one up a few months ago but hadn't taken the time to post it. There isn't anything particularly special about the plane or the restoration. It is a Stanley 7 type 11. The tote was pretty bad so I made one out of walnut to replace it. The unique part of this one was the exceptional shipping & handling. I purchased off ebay and the first photo shows how it arrived at my door… Luckily there wasn't any damage on the plane from the poor packing. The rest of the photos are the before/after.


----------



## corelz125

That's a miracle it showed up in one piece.


----------



## bandit571

Traded for a couple planes over the weekend…









Not the best shape..









I'll have to take a better "After" picture of the Stanley #4c 









A model G12-004 Made In England..








As for the Millers Falls Type 4 No. 9








Seems to work just fine








Straight up trade, two of my "extras" for these two









Even this cleaned up nicely









Stanley's test drive. Waiting on the paint to cure out…









Then a buff to bring out the "STANLEY" Didn't have the "correct" colour needed….close enough.


----------



## warrenkicker

Sorry to the purists but I think red looks better than that orange.

As for the shipping it was so bad that the shipping company had to do everything by hand because it couldn't go through their machines in that shape.


----------



## bandit571

And the "After" of the two Trade Planes…









Look any better?









Millers Falls No.9, type 4..and









Stanley No. 4c G12-004 Made in England









And, it is a "c" model..









Might be a bit better than what I traded off for these two…


----------



## corelz125

That's a nice tote on that millers falls


----------



## Slyy

Here's my new resto, a 1967 Delta 20" Bandsaw.
In the hunt for the cash reserves for an appropriate RPC to fire it up but everything seems great. Served a previous life in a school shop of the Motor Tags are to be believed.
As found:


----------



## HokieKen

Wow, beautiful work Jake! Gorgeous saw!


----------



## DLK

Its a great band saw. I have one I also got from a local high school. Only the one I have needed zero restoration
except I added a vfd to control the 3 phase motor, and bought from Highland a Wood Slicer Resaw Bandsaw Blade (Blade Length: 141 inch Blade Width: 3/4 inch).

You probably paid less then I did, but put more work into it. Made a big difference in my ability to resaw.

Here is the picture of it when it sat in the high school:










They decided to up grade to powermatic because this saw made the shop teacher nervous when kids used it.

If you need any info just ask. I have for example a recipe for guide blocks that I used to make new guide blocks for it.


----------



## BlasterStumps

These two tools should be fun to work on. I looked close at the medallion on the saw and it appears to be from sometime right after 1876. It has cap screws. Probably a well-worn No. 7. Handle is toast. I would love to do a No. 7 handle and use the original saw nuts. I'll try to remember to post a pic of the completed saw after I wack and hack on it for a while. 
The drill is Stanley 813G, 12". Might need to replace bearings in chuck but other than that, just need to refinish the wood and should have a good 12" brace. Up until today, I haven't had a 12" brace.

Anyone have a suggestion on what stain/finish to use on the wood for the drill? I'm not good with stains and finishes so I could use all the help I can get. 
Mike

Hope these pictures don't get their orientation all messed up when I post this. : )


----------



## Slyy

Combo, replacement blocks recipe is certainly worth a PM! Yeah I definitely put some time into it, what I'm not looking forward to is dropping $250 or something ridiculous into new tires, though urethane is a lot less messy than rubber ones (especially with the t-track wheels) and I've put less money into this saw so far. In that final pic, you can see what I'm really looking forward to the resto of: a slightly earlier vintage Delta 40-CL Radial Arm saw, one of Deltas most iconic tools.


----------



## onoitsmatt

I just finished this up today. I got lazy cleaning up the tote, but I kind of like a little bit of the original grime. It's a 10" Jackson.


----------



## DLK

Pm sent.


----------



## BlasterStumps

Nice job Matt on your 10" Jackson. Having cleaned up a few myself, I can appreciate the work you did on it. You made it into a nice little saw.

My eyesight is going and I have a bit of double vision as well so I had to get a magnifying visor in order to see the teeth of the saws when sharpening. Its a bugger to try to do those little teeth even then.


----------



## Tim457

Jake, awesome job on that saw. I need some 20" bandsaw in my life.


----------



## HokieKen

> ...what I m not looking forward to is dropping $250 or something ridiculous into new tires, though urethane is a lot less messy than rubber ones…
> 
> - Slyy


Slyy, here's a good place to get your tires. Reasonable prices, high quality, and if they don't have your size, they'll custom make them.


----------



## Brit

Nice job Matt. Looks way better than before.


----------



## JayT

This morning's work. Nothing major, just a good cleaning and de-rusting of an Hibbard, Spencer, Bartlett & Co True Value line plane manufactured by Millers Falls.



















This one will be headed to the office for display, along with another HSB & Co plane, a Revonoc #5, as they have ties to the history of the company I work for.


----------



## Marn64

Nice job on the True Value and Revonoc, JayT! Did you sharpen them at all or are they staying dull for display?


----------



## JayT

Since they are for display, I did not take the time to sharpen.


----------



## bandit571

Did a walk-about today, and spent $5 for a Rusty & Krusty #3 Dunlap…









At least nothing was missing or cracked, one little spot was it..









Walked back home, carrying the "treasure" in a bag….rested up awhile. then went to the shop for a little bit..









Same plane..









Just cleaned up…and sharpened ..









Honed to iron to 400 grit, for now…









Doesn't look like it's 66 years old….


----------



## rtbrmb

This is a double post from the Saws thread-a J.L. Draper 12" backsaw I cleaned up-learning to sharpen is on this years to-do list.

Thanks for looking

Bill in MI


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job Bill


----------



## WhoMe

Co_goose. Please keep us posted. My sears 65 cap pin looks just like that. I have been trying to figure out how to fix it without breaking the knuckle cap casting. And what to replace it with.


----------



## BlasterStumps

This is going to take some elbow grease but should be worth it. It is probably as old as me or nearly anyway. Shopmaster JO-400 I believe. My shopsmith has a little 4" jointer very similar but I have been wanting a wider cutterhead. We'll see how it works out. I am down to the point where I need to remove the shaft from the cutterhead so I can replace the bearings in the housing. If I can get new bearing, give it a clean, maybe paint it, sharpen the cutters, and get it back together, then I am going to see if i can make it work with my shopsmith powerhead (hopefully).


----------



## BlasterStumps

Little snag on the bearings. They are Norma 203PP or same as Timken 203PP Ball Bearing, Double Sealed, No Snap Ring, Metric, 17 mm ID, 40 mm OD, 12 mm Width, Max RPM, 1060 lbs Static Load Capacity, 2450 lbs Dynamic Load Capacity. 
Before I pay the price for Timken bearings, does anyone know of a similar quality bearing that doesn't cost quite $20 a piece?


----------



## HokieKen

Here is a VXB on amazon for about $8.


----------



## BlasterStumps

Back on the jointer again. I am figuring out a stand. Sent the old one in the picture to the dump. I decided it would be better to dedicate a motor rather than try to run off the shopsmith. All I have is a Craftsman general purpose 1/2hp 1725 rpm motor with a 5" pulley and a 2" on the jointer. Hopefully that will give 4300+rpm on jointer cutter head. The motor is not capacitor start. We will see if it works. : ) Still haven't settled on the bearings yet. Tomorrow maybe.

Also made a guard for the cutterhead today. It may take a little tweaking once I get the jointer back together.


----------



## TheFridge

Accurate bearing carries good stuff cheap. Gotta get your stuff together before you order from them though. See owwm. They have a post about it at the top of the page that stays there.


----------



## bandit571

Picked a pair of $1 "junker" saws, mainly for the brass parts..









Beat/bent up saw plate…..









Good plate, broken handle..

Switched out a few brass parts… I had a No. 7 that needed the correct medallion…tossed the bent up plate, tossed the broken handle, tried a few of the leftover brass parts..









Shortened the good plate by 4". Added the good handle









Made sure the toe looked nicely formed…









And put my "new" Panel saw on the hook onthe side of the saw til. 8 ppi, seems to have been filed as crosscut. 
Medallion has a crack in the rim….may change it out for a non-cracked one. Warranted Superior. 
$2 to get some brass bolts, and enough good parts for a decent panel saw….


----------



## bandit571

Garage Sale find, today…...spent a dollar bill..









2" wide chisel…









Needed a wee bit of work…









Maybe..









Back still needs a bit more work..









Harbour Freight lathe chisel handle….guess it was good for something…


----------



## BlasterStumps

Update on my redo of the Shopmaster 6" jointer. I'm Done! I didn't go so far as to repaint but I took my time to set it up so it works fairly well. It seems like a handy thing to have. Not sure if I will keep it or what I will do with it. It was a fun project.


----------



## DLK

Looks shiny! Well done.


----------



## BlasterStumps

I had a south facing door that was open to my back when i took the pic. : ) It's an all cast aluminum jointer so it was just reflecting the light coming in. I cleaned the tables and the fence but still could have done more I suppose.


> Looks shiny! Well done.
> 
> - Combo Prof


----------



## Buckeyes85

Chisel Plane
Somewhere I saw one of these - can't remember whether it was on LJs or FW or where, but it seemed like a cool idea. I picked up the donor plane for a couple bucks at a Midwest Tool Collector event. Used a jigsaw to cut off the front of the plane and form a rough ogee. Smoothed it off with a grinding wheel in a Dremel. Cleaned up the iron as you would for any other plane.

To be honest, it works ok but the big limitation is the sides…if you are using it to clean up glue squeeze out and the two panels are not exactly flush, you won't be able to reach the glue. It was interesting though and I'm not out much.


----------



## WayneC

It looks like an interesting mod. Can you take the sides down more?


----------



## Buckeyes85

I suppose you could but unless you take them off altogether i'm not sure it would make much difference in functionality.


----------



## DLK

Is WD40 Rust Remover Soak rebranded Evapo rust?

I recall a rumor that the WD 40 company was buying out Evapo rust, but I don't know if it happened.


----------



## donwilwol

Here is the Sargent #24C (Shaw Patent) i posted.










And now.


----------



## summerfi

Looks great Don. That was fast.


----------



## papadan

Any power tools allowed in this thread? I just picked up a 1954 Craftsman 6 1/2" circular saw that I am going to restore.


----------



## corelz125

nice job Don your repaired the tote or replaced it?


----------



## HokieKen

Bring it on Dan. We've had corded devils here before 

Great work on that jointer Don. Looks awesome!


----------



## bandit571

$12 purchase..









Including the stand..









Took a day or two..









Remember, the stand was part of the price…









Did not do much to the handle, there was a label in the way..









Handle was in great shape, anyway…









Disston etch on the spine, Millers Falls etch on the plate

Langdon ACME No. 75 , size 2-1/2, from Millers Falls, MASS, USA.


----------



## donwilwol

> nice job Don your repaired the tote or replaced it?
> 
> - corelz125


It was repaired


----------



## papadan

Here is one of my next projects. 1954 Craftsman 6 1/2" circular saw. Includes the case, tools and some paperwork. Worst part is the cord is rotted away, I want to try and find an original type with the external ground lug.


----------



## UpstateNYdude

Geez that thing looks like it weighs a metric ton.


----------



## HokieKen

That's pretty darned cool Dan. A quick google image search shows that the original didn't have a ground lug at all. Just the old 2-prong. Looking forward to you getting it done although, it looks to be in pretty good shape as-is!


----------



## ToddJB

This is a repost with a ton of photos - sorry I know how you guys hate pictures.






















































































































Making new dogs.


















































































Flattening jaws and filling sins.





































In a drawer full of round head rivet pins, not one was the right size, but I did have a big ass nail that was the right size.




























And done - for now


----------



## HokieKen

Well done Todd. Dogs came out awesome and I love the gold lettering! How did you do the letters? Only problem I see is that now you're going to have to make a brass handle instead of wood to keep a constant look ;-)


----------



## ToddJB

You send me the brass and I'll make it happen, Kenny

Sharpie Paint Pen - Oil Based - Metallic Gold - I prefer the fat ones for raised letters.


----------



## TheGreatJon

Fantastic job on the vise. It looks super sharp.


----------



## HokieKen

> You send me the brass and I ll make it happen, Kenny
> 
> - ToddJB


You got it! Is 4" long enough or do you need 5? Looks to be about 1/4" diameter? ;-)


----------



## Handtooler

Absolutely wonderful rehab! You've really done yourself proud. Are you a machinist by training and trade? You'll certainly using a tool so fantastically restored.


----------



## ToddJB

Kenny, I think 6' of 1", and 3' of 2.5, should be enough for me to fab something up.

And thanks Russell. Not a machinist. Using my woodworking tools on the brass, couldn't get away with that if it were a harder material.


----------



## bigblockyeti

Todd, that vice looks great! I had an alert in my inbox for an Emmert K1 pattern makers vice that needs little more than paint, problem is the seller wants $575 for it, I'm guessing they wouldn't bite on an offer of $30 or $40.


----------



## ToddJB

Yeah, Yeti, those pattern vises go for silly $$$. I'd like one, but this guy will satisfy me until one comes along for pennys on the dollar.


----------



## bandit571

Is there a "dog lever" missing?


----------



## Johnny7

Awesome job, Mr Todd!


----------



## ToddJB

> Is there a "dog lever" missing?
> 
> - bandit571


Nope.










Spring loaded.

The set screw holds it down - loosen screw, pops up.


----------



## bigblockyeti

So are you going to build a new bench for it or notch your current bench to accept it?


----------



## ToddJB

New bench. Sharpening bench specifically. About 40"x24"ish. Will house and accommodate all things sharpening


----------



## TheGreatJon

I totally forgot to take a "before" picture, so I found the best approximation from the internet. It was rusty and very dirty when I picked it up, but once I started working on it, I found that it was all superficial. The internals were in great shape and just needed to be cleaned of crusty grease. As of last night, my new vice is fully operational (emperor palpatine voice).


----------



## HokieKen

Very nice Jon. Wilton bench vises are top notch!


----------



## donwilwol

nice transition on the Wilton for sure!


----------



## ToddJB

I like it. Good job.


----------



## donwilwol




----------



## bandit571

Not too bad a looking Union No.6 !


----------



## Tim457

So what you're saying, Don, is that it just needed a bit of surface cleaning. Hah. Nice work as always.


----------



## WayneC

Looks much better. Did you make a new rod for the tote?


----------



## donwilwol

> Looks much better. Did you make a new rod for the tote?
> 
> - WayneC


No, i just pulled one out of the parts bin.


----------



## WayneC

You should post the after shots you posted on facebook. I was not sure if the Union Length matched Stanley.


----------



## donwilwol




----------



## WayneC

Awesome work.


----------



## terryR

Exceptional work, Don!


----------



## ToddJB

Cross posted -


----------



## HokieKen

Nice work Todd! Beautiful machinist's chest.


----------



## Just_Iain

Very nicely done Todd!


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks guys. I like it.


----------



## DonBroussard

Great find and a great resto, Todd. What finish did you put on that box?


----------



## ToddJB

Natural Danish Oil and Howards Feed N Wax.

I removed what was left of the film finish, some sort of shellac I presume, from the all of it, but the dying process they used on the shell must have gone a lot deeper than the drawers. But I like the contrast.


----------



## Mosquito

Pure sexy Todd


----------



## HokieKen

^ There's a phrase not often uttered ^


----------



## ToddJB

False, Kenny. I tell myself everytime I walk by a mirror.


----------



## donwilwol

looks great Todd!!


----------



## DonBroussard

Todd-I bet you also can't use a stud finder, since it always points to you. Just kidding!


----------



## Brit

Lovely job Todd! Does Howard know you've got his wax?


----------



## bandit571

The "Before" 









Still need to refinish this handle..









Plate is at least straight..

The "After" 









E. C. Atkins & Co. Silver Steel Warranted Has the AAA trademark in the etch. 8ppi, skew back, crosscut. 
From Indy, IN….

Had to remove a small kink at the tooth line, otherwise it is just fine.. maybe I'll leave the handle alone, for now?

Model Number?


----------



## bandit571

No. 59…..24" length


----------



## Marn64

Stanley No. 4, type 6 (1888-1892), this is my first time using evapo-rust, I'm very impressed. The lateral is quite loose and a little bent though, so it might need replacement or fixing in the distant future, otherwise this Stanley is in great condition.


----------



## Timbo

Nice restore on the No. 4 Benjamin!

Its been almost a month with no action here and that is too long so here you go.

This before pic has been posted here before:









I wanted to show some recent changes:


----------



## Tim457

Wow you don't kid around, Tim, nicely done.


----------



## PlanBWoodworks

Stanley Bailey #5. eBay purchase. My first restoration. Learned a great deal. The eBay pictures did not show that the tear tote was broken in half. Glued it back together and sanded everything down. Soaked all metal parts in vinegar and salt for 24 hours. Brass brush removed any remaining rust. Finish is minwax red mahogany and 2 coats of BLO.


----------



## CFrye

WOW! That's beautiful, Tim!!


----------



## HokieKen

Nice work all. That 60-1/2 is SUPER sexy Tim!!


----------



## bigblockyeti

Damn, that 60 1/2 looks amazing, it's oozing with pimp juice!


----------



## bandit571

How my work cut out for me..now









today's haul….already started on the WS Rip saw
Photos as they get done..


----------



## bandit571

One saw and the square are done..
Saw:









5-1/2 ppi. 18" long…









Medallion is a Warranted Superior with an eagle. Apparently saw was a bit longer, at one time..









Teeth are very sharp, too. 
Square:









Stanley No. 20….12" long









All the markings are readable. two down 5 more to go


----------



## bandit571

Ok, wasn't much to clean up on the Yankees….so..









The Before….#3 Dunlap, marked as a "BL" 
The After?









Sears seemed to order a lot of red paint..









Sole was actually flat…..I flattened the back of the iron, tuned the chipbreaker…









Seemed to do ok on Maple. 









Just a #3 smoother…( paid $3 for it..)


----------



## CO_Goose

Just picked this Stanley No 3 type 16 up and it was in pretty good shape to start with, so the rehab was pretty quick.
First the before shots:




























Started off flattening the sole, and it was in already pretty good, with a hollow in the back under the tote, Then dis-assembled it, and gave everything a good cleaning, the bright metal parts with the wire wheel, and the buffing wheel for all of the brass, and windex on everything else. I used some Bar Keepers Friend on the depth adjusting knob with a brush to get into all of those grooves, and that worked really nice. Then I rubbed everything down with Carnuba wax, and started the re-assembly.



















I did not do anything to the knob or tote, they have a couple of marks, but no paint splatters. Then I resharpened the blade. Fortunately the back was already flat, so polishing that was easy, but it had a slight camber to it that took a while to grind back to square, and get a good edge on it. Now for the test drive on some unknown softwood.



















Just a hair over .001 on a full width shaving. This will be a nice addition to plane arsenal, now I need to get out some of those others that need more restoring than this one.


----------



## TheFridge

First rehab in awhile since I went to the bronze side.

No 4 t11- 4th bench plane from left. Traded same type soles with 5 from left since someone thought hanger holes were a good idea.










I am a big fan of shining up the visible nuts and bolts and brass. I used an abranet assortment pack on the knob and tote up to 600. Stuff is $$$ but man it lasts. I like silky knob and totes with a wax finish.





































No 5 t9- 1st from the left in the top pic

I got the same treatment as the 4.





































And I remembered how much I hate lapping the backs of irons and mating mating wonky cap irons.


----------



## donwilwol

Welcome back from the bronze side.


----------



## MNclone

I've got a dried and cracked knob on a plane I'm working on. Should I remove finish before BLO soak or after?


----------



## bandit571

Before


----------



## Johnny7

> I ve got a dried and cracked knob on a plane I m working on. Should I remove finish before BLO soak or after?
> 
> - MNclone


I'm going to make a (perhaps) controversial statement here.
Don't use BLO on rosewood knobs; it serves only to darken and obscure the grain.
Shellac and lacquer are your best bets.


----------



## TheFridge

> Welcome back from the bronze side.
> 
> - Don W


I might actually keep one 

Maybe I should have started with sargents. If it wasn't for 3-4 warped soles I might have never left.


----------



## donwilwol

> Welcome back from the bronze side.
> 
> - Don W
> 
> I might actually keep one
> 
> Maybe I should have started with sargents. If it wasn t for 3-4 warped soles I might have never left.
> 
> - TheFridge


Warped soles on what?


----------



## Tim457

> I ve got a dried and cracked knob on a plane I m working on. Should I remove finish before BLO soak or after?
> 
> - MNclone
> 
> I m going to make a (perhaps) controversial statement here.
> Don t use BLO on rosewood knobs; it serves only to darken and obscure the grain.
> Shellac and lacquer are your best bets.
> 
> - Johnny7


I've never used BLO on rosewood because several LJ's have said it darkens too much and hides the grain, so that's not controversial that I know of.


----------



## HokieKen

Some don't like BLO on Rosewood for the reasons mentioned above. It's a matter of taste. But, Shellac and Lacquer won't help with the fact that the knob is dried and cracked. I say remove the finish and oil it.


----------



## HorizontalMike

> I ve got a dried and cracked knob on a plane I m working on. Should I remove finish before BLO soak or after?
> - MNclone
> 
> I m going to make a (perhaps) controversial statement here.
> Don t use BLO on rosewood knobs; it serves only to darken and obscure the grain.
> Shellac and lacquer are your best bets.
> - Johnny7
> 
> I ve never used BLO on rosewood because several LJ s have said it darkens too much and hides the grain, so that s not controversial that I know of.
> - Tim


My personal experience is that:


 BLO on old/oem rosewood will indeed darken the grain way more than most of us prefer.


 BLO on newly turned/made rosewood totes&knobs, comes out very nice and attractively highlights the grain. Some darkening but not much. Can be spray lacquered after BLO dries, if preferred.


 Of particular note-When turning knobs or using a round-over bit on totes, it is important to be careful NOT to allow the tote or knob to be burnt (even slightly) by the tools being used. BLO really darkens these areas when applied.


----------



## TheFridge

> Welcome back from the bronze side.
> 
> - Don W
> 
> I might actually keep one
> 
> Maybe I should have started with sargents. If it wasn t for 3-4 warped soles I might have never left.
> 
> - TheFridge
> 
> Warped soles on what?
> 
> - Don W


Every one of the 4 Stanley #5s I owned.


----------



## Johnny7

> But, Shellac and Lacquer won t help with the fact that the knob is dried and cracked.
> 
> - HokieKen


Neither will BLO.


----------



## bandit571

Hmmm…









Recent find, for $3….Dunlap BL#3









Paint handles were stripped, then BLO applied..









Sears seemed to love red paint…









Test drive on some Maple…


----------



## donwilwol

> Welcome back from the bronze side.
> 
> - Don W
> 
> I might actually keep one
> 
> Maybe I should have started with sargents. If it wasn t for 3-4 warped soles I might have never left.
> 
> - TheFridge
> 
> Warped soles on what?
> 
> - Don W
> 
> Every one of the 4 Stanley #5s I owned.
> 
> - TheFridge


Well yeah. They made them that way! I don't believe they knew what a surface grinder was.


----------



## donwilwol

There has been a process in the Facebook groups about stabilizing questionable wood. I haven't tried it yet but mix a water and CA glue solution.

I've used CA glue straight and that seems to work. I work it in with my fingers. Rubber gloves help.


----------



## TheFridge

> Welcome back from the bronze side.
> 
> - Don W
> 
> I might actually keep one
> 
> Maybe I should have started with sargents. If it wasn t for 3-4 warped soles I might have never left.
> 
> - TheFridge
> 
> Warped soles on what?
> 
> - Don W
> 
> Every one of the 4 Stanley #5s I owned.
> 
> - TheFridge
> 
> Well yeah. They made them that way! I don t believe they knew what a surface grinder was.
> 
> - Don W


Yeah. Bastards.


----------



## ToddJB

Cross post from SOTS - some dudes from my church were interested in learning about restoring machines. So for the last 6 months or so we've picked a night a week to work on this DP. We'll be giving it to our Paster who is into woodworking and customizing motorcycles. Here is what he was previously rocking.










And done

Here s a video:






Here s some pictures:














































Some Accessories










Some custom things:

Switch bracket









Key guard to protect paint









Led light wired into switch









The crew - missing a couple










- ToddJB


----------



## WayneC

Beautiful work.


----------



## CFrye

Awesome upgrade, Todd! He will be tickled pink!


----------



## HokieKen

Sexy as heck Todd. Nice work brother! I would love to have that in my shop.


----------



## DonBroussard

Kudos to you and your team, Todd! It's heartwarming to see people working together for a great cause!


----------



## TheFridge

Yeah that's pretty fire toddrick. That's a commitment to excellence right there. You are an excellent dude though.










#4. Third bench plane from left

I like shiny but I took the hardware all the way on this one. I even polished the lateral to see what it looks like. I also tried a plastic brush on a dremel with 3 in 1 oil to clean the japanning. Worked well.





































I likes shiny.


----------



## HokieKen

Nice work there Fridge!


----------



## Brit

Beautiful restore Fridge. You put a lot of time into that and it shows.


----------



## UpstateNYdude

Nice Fridge, what did you use to get it that way if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## DanKrager

Blood, sweat and tears, Dude… LOL! That shore does look nice Fridge.

DanK


----------



## TheFridge

Thanks guys, a drill, a small mill file, some sandpaper, and a dremel with wool pads and compound for the shiny. Evaporust and 3-4 different kinds of wire wheels for derusting.

And way too much time. But hey. It's pretty in the end


----------



## corelz125

nice job on that fridge looks like a piece of jewelry


----------



## DanKrager

I am so impressed, Todd, you and the guys actually pulled this together! Well done, man. Can't wait to see the reaction…

DanK


----------



## TheFridge

Yeah no lie on that. I would have little mini drill presses with that thing it's so pretty.


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks all.

Dan, I am surprised it happened too. Hard to consistently wrangle people - which is why it took 6 months. Ready to get it out of the shop. Too tempting not to use.

Fridge, the plane is looking great!


----------



## TheFridge

You're a sweetheart todd

Upstate, I've also recently discovered abranet. So far I've used a 1/2 strip ea of 80,150,320, & 600 to strip the finish and sand 4 knobs and totes. Stuff is as advertised. I just put a couple coats of paste wax on the rosewood. It'll lighten up a bit after drying and buffing. Pretty planes make them easier to sell and get a couple extra bucks out of them.


----------



## DonBroussard

Great work, Fridge. You should make a box and a label now and put 'em on a high shelf. That plane is worthy of display.


----------



## ColonelTravis

> Too tempting not to use.
> 
> - ToddJB


Yeah no kidding. That's a drill? Looks like you could serve me a chocolate milkshake from a soda fountain with that thing.

Awesome restore.


----------



## UpstateNYdude

Hey Todd, I just bought an old Powermatic 1150 I'm getting ready to restore, I can send it over to you guys and you can just do all the work and I'll come pick it up in like 5-6 months if you want lol. With kids it and the projects I have that's about when I may get it done anyway.


----------



## donwilwol

Here is a somewhat rare Sargent #59 scraper.



















And after some magic


----------



## ToddJB

> Hey Todd, I just bought an old Powermatic 1150 I m getting ready to restore, I can send it over to you guys and you can just do all the work and I ll come pick it up in like 5-6 months if you want lol. With kids it and the projects I have that s about when I may get it done anyway.
> 
> - UpstateNYdude


I'm rocking a 5 and 3 year old. But 8 to 10pm is my time!


----------



## UpstateNYdude

> I rocking a 5 and 3 year old. But 8 to 10pm is my time!
> 
> - ToddJB


Rocking a 5 and 1.5 year old, I try to stretch my time more because I don't have heat in my garage/shop so I'm more of a 8 to 11:30-12 until winter arrives or a show I really like is on, but GoT is over for this year.


----------



## ToddJB

Haha. My 10-11 is usually winding down with something on netflix.

Also, winter is here.


----------



## HorizontalMike

> Here is a somewhat rare Sargent #59 scraper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after some magic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Don W


Wow NICE! That said, I'm glad (for me), that I (ME) restrict my hobby to early #400 series hand planes. For me, it is so much better to be my-optic in my hobby rather than way too much global…. It sure helps my wallet… 

*I* like my little collection of Sargents… At least MY budget supports my choice… *;-)*


----------



## donwilwol

It was $30 Mike. ;-)

You would have bought it to !!


----------



## TheFridge

> Also, winter is here.
> 
> - ToddJB


Ditto


----------



## rtbrmb

This is a cross post from the saw thread, so I won't provide details here. Basically a ~100 year old Drabble and Sanderson hand saw. The work was done by myself & Missoula Bob.


----------



## DLK

Whats our current favourite method for removing the ever present globs of paint on cocobolo totes, knobs and handles?


----------



## HokieKen

Elbow grease Don. Maybe a little lacquer thinner or MS but mostly sandpaper on knobs and scrapers on totes.


----------



## bandit571

Brought this thing home Saturday..









Yep, $8 for a Stanley No.4, type 9









Took about an hour….









To clean off the crud.









Sole was flat, just needed cleaned up..









Had to flatten the iron, thin the head of the bolt for the chipbreaker. Sharpened a new bevel to 600 grit, for now









Test Track was a piece of Black Walnut..









I did not change out the rear handle. It's bolt was bent, had to straighten it out. I kind of like that friction tape as a grip….handle feels solid as a rock. Not about to mess with it, right now. When I get a bit more shoptime, I may sharpen the iron up a bit better.


----------



## donwilwol

> Whats our current favourite method for removing the ever present globs of paint on cocobolo totes, knobs and handles?
> 
> - Combo Prof


I've recently had very good luck with steel wool and wax.


----------



## DLK

Thanks for the suggestions.



> Elbow grease Don. Maybe a little lacquer thinner or MS but mostly sandpaper on knobs and scrapers on totes.
> 
> - HokieKen


BTDT… was hoping for something better. I;m trying to keep the finish.



> I've recently had very good luck with steel wool and wax.
> 
> - Don W


I was going to try steel wool and bar keepers friend and/or murphy's oil. But decided to ask first. I will try wax.


----------



## bandit571

Usually, I can just use a fingernail…..


----------



## DLK

Fingernail didn't do it this time.


----------



## ToddJB

> Can t wait to see the reaction…
> 
> DanK
> 
> - Dan Krager


----------



## HokieKen

Very cool Todd. Seriously though, you gotta have a talk with that dude about those shoes. ;-)


----------



## ToddJB

Those are motorcycle boots - just a funny pattern. They look like sock and sandles in this pic.


----------



## ColonelTravis

rtbrmb - nice saws. Are the handles QS oak?


----------



## rtbrmb

Col. Travis;

Thanks for the compliment. I believe the handle is original to the saw-which is British & I believed they used QS beech. I wish I could have gotten it to "pop" a little more-still very happy with the outcome.

Bill


----------



## Brit

> rtbrmb - nice saws. Are the handles QS oak?
> 
> - ColonelTravis


Yes they are definitely QS beech. Very nice saws.


----------



## Tim457

> Fingernail didn t do it this time.
> 
> - Combo Prof


A scraper can work pretty well. Sometimes they just pop right off, others take a little careful scraping. I've not tried steel wool and wax, but you could certainly do that after trying a scraper.


----------



## terryR

Try a q-tip with a tiny amount of paint thinner to remove drops. slow. wet the drop a little, try your fingernail again.


----------



## TheFridge

I usually give them a hard stare and they dribble off by themselves.


----------



## HokieKen

> Those are motorcycle boots - just a funny pattern. They look like sock and sandles in this pic.
> 
> - ToddJB


LOL, I thought they were high black leather strappy sandles with white socks


----------



## Tim457

Camera person caught the timing perfectly, that's awesome, Todd.


----------



## DLK

It is more then just a drop. Its like a thumb print of white paint. I may have to scrape. We will see when I get back to it soon. Spent the morning doing plumbing.


----------



## DLK

Paint on the head:










But Don W is the man. All hail the mighty Yoda and never doubt his wisdom. We are not worthy.

Steel wool and wax worked like a charm.










So any here is restored MF 730 14" brace.

*Before*










*After*










Not bad so far for a $5 rusty brace.

How can I repair the holes in the head?
Should I bother with them or just leave them?.


----------



## Tim457

> Paint on the head:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But Don W is the man. All hail the mighty Yoda and never doubt his wisdom. We are not worthy.
> 
> Steel wool and wax worked like a charm.
> - Combo Prof


Never doubted for a minute. That's one I would have never thought of so I hope I remember that when I need it. The scraper trick works best on random splatter dots.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Yeah, the steel wool & wax is great on convex surfaces, but on concave surfaces or even flat surfaces near and inside corner, I tend to use a small/medium size screwdriver with a freshly squared end. Kind of like a chisel, but blunt. I do this mostly when trying to preserve the japanning on metal hand planes. Steel wool seems too aggressive in that situation.

Anyway, nice save.


----------



## Mosquito

Nice Don. I've been keeping an out out for a 730, and 729 to finish off my brace set… Not the easiest to come by lol


----------



## DLK

I would consider trading it for a MF 774 and/or MF 773.


----------



## FoundSheep

Has anyone had experience getting the ratchet on a brace to work again? I picked up one, and I never could get the ratchet to work. The little collar does twist to change the direction though.
I'll try to post some pictures.


----------



## DanKrager

FoundSheep, the most likely cause for the ratchet not to work nicely is because it's clogged with gunk. A good soak in some solvent like Blaster, penetrating oil, or even WD40 might do it a world of good. In some cases there could be broken springs involved.

DanK


----------



## Brit

Sometimes you can dismantle the ratchets on braces to clean them. See if this helps: http://lumberjocks.com/Brit/blog/25308


----------



## donwilwol

Soaking in diesel fuel may help as well


----------



## Bertha

Before:










After:










Lol

Seriously, a $hit ton of work went into it.


----------



## Brit

I've never heard of J. Jowett. Nice work sir.


----------



## grfrazee

Man, I haven't posted here in a while. Here's a Stanley No. 12 1/2 that I picked up at a flea market earlier this month. There was nothing terribly wrong with it, just needed some Evaporust and oil. I'm not positive where the handle is from, but I'm 99% sure it's not original. Might have to make a new one once I get a lathe in the shop.

Before



















After


----------



## Tim457

It was in decent shape, but you did it some good for sure. Blood and gore (supertool.com) says the handles were rosewood. It looks like someone used some salvaged wood for a replacement for yours. It does look fitting or the plane though.


----------



## WayneC

Beautiful job grfrazee.


----------



## corelz125

Nice work on the scraper and the handle looks good on there.


----------



## Galootinator

A Shapleigh Diamond Edge jack plane I picked up for $5….and a Marsh low angle block plane I stole as well ($2).


----------



## Galootinator




----------



## WayneC

Very nice Walter.


----------



## TheFridge

Walter. Take your pics in landscape and they will orient properly. Otherwise, you have to edit them in some small way and save it. And nice. I love me some refinished rosewood.


----------



## Galootinator

Landscape? Thank you for the tip…I'm just not sure what you mean. I'm using an iPhone 6, that might be part of the problem. Thanks guys! I know what you mean…I think I bleed rosewood and shellac.


----------



## theoldfart

Landscape hold the phone sideways. long dimension up, home button on the right

Portrait hold the phone with the short dimension up, home button at the bottom.

Most of my pics are with an IPhone 6


----------



## TheFridge

All mine are with a 6.


----------



## Galootinator

Ohhhhh! Thanks, that will be a huge help.


----------



## grfrazee

Here's a Millers Falls No. 10 that I've been sitting on since early 2013. Picked this up in the deepest, darkest corner of an antique store in Bumblefu**, KS.

A good soak in methylele chloride (followed by about 2 hours of lightheadedness, need to get some of the less-noxious stuff) took off the awful red paint and revealed a rosewood knob and a beech tote, both of which I'm 99% certain are not original to the plane. Need to fine replacements for those, and the Victory blade as well. If anyone has a set of original gonçalo alves knob/tote that would fit this, let me know.


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## warrenkicker

I had picked up a Stanley No 3 Type 11 some time back and then just picked up an RHSB & Co Rev-O-Noc 4 1/2 C. I have about $15 invested in the two and they cleaned up pretty well. Still need sharpening so no shavings yet. One interesting thing about the 4 1/2 is that it has a tapered blade going from 0.070" at the top to 0.180" at the cutting edge. First time I have seen this feature.


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## WayneC

Beautiful Restoration.


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## rtbrmb

Glad to see some new postings on this thread-excellent work by everyone restoring these old tools back to a useful state again.

Bill


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## bandit571

The "Before" 









Stanley No. 4c, Type 16..









About an hour's worth of clean-up..









And a bit of shavings..









Plane cost $12 plus tax…


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## JethroBodean

Bandit - Seeing what you do just makes me smile! Thanks. Beautiful job.


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## DLK

*Before*









*After*









*Test Drive*









*Wierd profile though*









*I have a few more to do*


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## GlenintheNorth

> Stopped at the Local Habitat Re-store today, they have a cabinet where they put the vintage tools so they don t get lost in the rest of the clutter. In there I found this little plane.
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> It is a Craftsman 3732, which most believe is made by Sargent. It had surface rust, but otherwise looked to be in good repair.
> I tore it apart and cleaned it up. The blade was sharpened quite a bit and it was at a slight angle, so that took a while to straighten, and almost all of the paint is still on it. It cleaned up quite nicely.
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> There is one issue left, the center pivot rod in the knuckle housing is bending, it appears to be a nail, what is supposed to go there?
> Thanks for any help
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> - CO_Goose


Millers Falls #47 with Cman name stamp. The Sargent knuckle is totally different.

The rod is just a steel pin. They were piened over after insertion. Someone did a bad thing and had to replace it, probably.


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## GlenintheNorth

> Here s a Millers Falls No. 10 that I ve been sitting on since early 2013. Picked this up in the deepest, darkest corner of an antique store in Bumblefu**, KS.
> 
> A good soak in methylele chloride (followed by about 2 hours of lightheadedness, need to get some of the less-noxious stuff) took off the awful red paint and revealed a rosewood knob and a beech tote, both of which I m 99% certain are not original to the plane. Need to fine replacements for those, and the Victory blade as well. If anyone has a set of original gonçalo alves knob/tote that would fit this, let me know.
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> - grfrazee


Which depth adjuster knob is on it? I think I see some red in the sides of the frog, so if that's the recessed knob it should have cocobolo knob and tote. It looks t2, so the knob is lookin' a-ok to me. Just a new (or old) cocobolo tote should be the ticket.

Nice save, I make these a habit.


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## Bertha

I'm not a MF guy but this is some great resto work. I never knew MF had a boss at the toe. Good stuff.


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## grfrazee

@GlenintheNorth, the depth adjustment knob is hollow. The other MF #8 I have looks like it's a Type 4, hence why I thought I needed gonçalo alves knob/tote for my #10. I'll have to keep my eyes out for the rosewood/cocobolo tote - thanks for the comment!


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## bandit571

Type 4 handles..Millers falls No. 9









Eye catching?









My other #9has the "rosewood" looking handles, but it is an early type 2.


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## Brit

I posted this on the saws thread, but I think it deserves a place here also.

W. Tyzack, Sons & Turner No.1 28" rip saw. The teeth go from 6ppi at the toe to 5 1/2ppi to 5ppi to 4 1/2ppi at the heal.

*BEFORE*





































*AFTER RESTORATION AND SHARPENING*
Sharpened with 8 degrees of rake, no fleam.





































With my previously restored No.3 for comparison. The No.3 was their top of the line saw. Notice the more refined shape to the handle and the difference in the wood selection.



















I've got a couple of No.2s in the restore pile too, although I think one of them is toast due to someone's bodged attempt at a previous restoration.


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## Bundoman

Bought this Millers Falls 12 Breast Drill last weekend for 3 dollars complete with the brushed on green latex paint. The paint came off pretty easily in the E-Tank and I re-painted it in the scheme you see here. The new green is Oliver tractor green. I went with a little creative license on the colors for this one as it will be a user in my shop. Only bummer is that the cover for the level glass is missing. Hopefully, I can locate one on a donor drill in time. And, I have a little residual green to clean from the gear teeth.


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## Brit

Very nice job you made of that drill.


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## adot45

That looks very nice. Good job.


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## Just_Iain

I have to agree with Brit and adot45… Very Nice!


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## HokieKen

Green MF? Sacrilege!! Just kidding;-) Looks pretty cool and should be a good user. Well done. Good luck finding the bubble level.


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## DLK

So in the MF advertisements there is often a lot of green:










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mWwqqi6jzbSoAyfGl/R/g6TxXcjFgYIRIuMYJL6cN5Vy6K8KF1dw27MVEjEFhjIARnOM9/Zx76ZESdaUYpyyl28OJx4NMFlUMcI4MbHwVxpz7jhv6tXL6H+IkwS2j7PbyHA/Mck49ziRfcKrbitlw5I3Ea34kGy9aiCPOfjEDNO3Qfi/U31vOT2bhepk8OsJC5PnrVG/tjWpnToZUurJrw7NeewvOisCs1YCiiigCiiigCiiigCiiigK39NHFcQxWa51TvqYDn1cZU497lPbg1UfHph1pQHKxDqwR3lc6297lz7xUq6W8Z67iFzc6sx246uLw1KdA/5zavYhqBqp2AyScAd5JPIeZqWcaz0XPZz2licW6WG1uYXiKyIbGBXQ4ZdajIyOQZWANI7rifW2tgzyBpPhsryZIyNUgOW8Bz+aoynR66PKByfAFdX0dWr6qbZEIJUggg4IIIII7iDuDU2PXLGTUm5Rdty/u2e8stHSa74vGJok65UEbu4VCesB9bv2FNPAeGCy4jaNJcW7qXJLRyBlUBT6x7qhGKKWObxUHZuGjbWfF34Ev6SdGtPX3AvLSQancIkmpyCxOAO871Lmu5XtbRLe/s4VFpGkiSsmrVjcciRttVRUUsI4yEW2oa569/YT3ozxP4HbcSVZYzKGhEZ2ZXwzaiob1hjf31y6Xcea8srZ+sUFSyzQDSMSA4EqqO5h81QjNDGlmS8YrNbOWe/3tw8y3ej9zcxtF8J4rZPbqMPHrV2ZNJGndc55d/dVXcVdTNLoxo6xtOOWnO1IqK2xFfEqpHZStnfW/sS70b36w3Ujs4T97ShScDtYGkb9+aari/kvbiP4TKMsyozkKoVM7k42GFzTPWKWIWItCMLZLXtzvbQt2XinD3up/372Zofg4jMREahVGhuszjYrnPmajvDrOObhptfhNvFIt68n419IKdUqgjAOd/1VBKzWWO/1yf3R4rXc/AnnRq0jh+HWz3dvmW3RUk14iJ15wGPOmmPhLW9zAI7621EkrMjkpGQreucbZxj31GM1mliPqadktjTTrPL0LhteKzKJDd8UtJ4TDIOrTBZmK4XHZHfVccPfXHLGDhlPXIfDBCtjwwND/2VMwpXw256uVXO6g4YeKHsuPepIoZUxSm42ja3bf2R6V6KcW+FWkE/e8Y1jwcbOPcwNO1Vl6Hr4o1zYsclH62PzRjoYjy1BX/tKs2rR0CiiitAUUUUAUUUUAUx9NeM/BLKaf4yrhPORjpT6yD7qfKqn0xcQMs1tYRkZz1r+GSSkYPl65PsFAVneDq7eOPO8hMj5zkhSUTPv65vPUKUWlpIlp8JjVizzGHWvONdKnA8GkLYzzwpA50g4tciSVmGy5CoPzFARP8AhAqU+jO0XrZLmYnqLReuYE9ky47G3IkYJ+aoOdJqdV9unYIeN8DisYkWZdd5IocrkhLdTy9UjVJnxOB4d9KeJL8L4Yt4+89vMIHc85IiMpqPewJAzzrfjvDjdwpfIZ5rm5lbVGiF441ywCFgOywGnmcYNdLmIi3h4RbkSXEs3WTlDqVXxgR5HPSACx/NND0um1eNurbLv+Th0KgW3im4nKBiL8Xbg8nncEZx3hQfr8qiM8jMxZjlick+JPOp/wAbsjdXMPCrUgQ2qnXIfVDDeWVvYdh5mkvA+GWdzcvEsRFrAvWSXDO3WMqEE6/igPgqFABA5HahzlRckoJ2S9Xz5aEHIo01KuA8JivL12CdVZx6pZOeEhXkpb8puXz+FOaWFi9nd3ItyiK2i3kLtqaQnOFTlpAx4nnnyw5RwrlfrL57SBYoxUrtbG3hsIrplE0kszRnUGaOFUbB7AI1OV7QyaaukgtvhD/BM9RtpyCMdkZxnfGc8605zoOENptdw0CjFbYrOKHnNcUVtUp6H9D3uiskmUgLAZ5NJj1gnkAN2rUrmpN5IjsHD5GR5FXsoMk+QIBK+OMjNJTVsdLBDFFJ1ZWNljaJFx2QhHajVe9iNyTsNubHaqK1qxU4bJrigmtgueQJ9grEQLHAB99RtI6Qw1af2xb8AFbA1jFFLnK1iY9E+L9Rc2d1nADC2m/mnSgY/wBVoT/ZGvQgNeXuFYdJYTyZC6j89ASceZjMo9uK9Aej/jBurGGRjl1HVyf0kZ0MffgN76qJ64O8U/DnncSKiiiqLCiiigCiiigNXYAEk4A3Psrzrxbi5nmu74/HYxw+QbMaY9kSyHyOKtz0qcY+D8PkVTiSc9QmOeXB1EexA1UbxltCRQD4q9Y386QDA90YT3saxkVJWi3zz8j5wW/lS06q2gikMglW4JVC4JbEe7EaV0bg8s6s0k4rxJYbVeHwMGy3WXMi+rJJthFPeqgAZ7yKjJNFSQ8S9nZS3W+d2/tv2Djw2B3DHr1hjHrMzlQfIIvac+QHvqcdAby2iS7MMkaSrDiOWchGdjnJHPQgwuFGTvk57q1zWCaGUsQoW6t/H9cOcyxOB3cC2N7DBNGty5QNLK/V9ahOWKE7hd2GOZyT31m6torfhkcUU8em4Je5nBGcIcLCkedZ78DHjnGaromgGh0WLX4+vPyT/jfEYobCGyt2VTcMrzEEMVUkBVlZebd7DuxjlTlxl7NZ7S0llX4FBoACsG612GWlkKk6Uydydzv3b1V4rYUH1au7R9dCZ9LYZpJ362eKO2DfitMitH1Y9XqoYzknGO4e2ozfzRkgRJpRRgE7u3izkbZ8hsOVIgK72dq8rrHGpZ2OFUd+2e/kANyTsBQ51a/SN2Wvj4LgjeytGlcRoMsfEgADIBLE7KBkbmpta9F7GGMm9lm6xWKsqgIowOYO5I5YyQSNwKVcL4bHZQFJ49TyBpBJvobQuYkYEZxrGR3EkE79kNZ4HcXtyXKn4OkpiDMQM6Ww2nPrMTuW8W8trsSoWWmZ04R0ZtJmR0d2DOR1Iz2wDgEMwBA8eY251KOnHHUsEEcOn4SyaU0+rDHjGVU7KMZ0jvJLHlSDpTxMWSsuV61gEjRNtESrjmPVUnP5xxnbORVt67SBpHbbkTy7uQxyAGNhSTsdqdOU5bENf0aXfEHcl2Z5CMAsSSF35eA3Pd471wa/jTBbtH8n9th76R8R43JIqxghY1AAVRpXbvwO/wA6R2kezPj1R9Z5f96hq+p6qKjTfVV3xeY5ycblbARVQd22o/t7q3QOwwS2/rMTgnyULsvtrNuDo1ndiuc7cu4DHIVNeLdE0QsY5G0atKM2DgpDM8iMB8bMQwfBxUuyNlicRWclB6cfZaIVdEejKyQ9a8QmMqTaO0oEQjVwGYagS7OoxtgAEnnXGPg0Ys0IWJpnt5Zn1iXWAkhjPVuvYXTgdk51EnypFB0XmUGVJVAWNyzAEEfiVfRzydYdh/VbNK5+ATxLJAbtxEqNIyhWIOmRU9QSYwSc5znblQmEGkk4Z58N9uewjVncGN1kXmrBh5kHOKtb0T8REV1PaZ/FyqJ4fcBke+NoverVXj8BxHBIZlUTFANS6QNa6tjq7WNgfV3YeOacLS8NpJBcZJa0lCvkFSYmDNuu+2hpxzPqrvyrUzzU6c4XUlr3d/yei6K1jcMAwOQQCD4g7g1tXQsKKKKAKKKTcSvkgikmc4SNGdj5KpY/qoCofShxAXHEUtyfxVtHqffkzAvIfdGox5k1Wt7cmSRpG5sxb2ZPL3bD3U7XV6zRz3Ln8ZcysOfIE9a49gHVKPJjTAs6lgM4GQC59VfM43PsFScKilN7MUb1iu3E2t42AjuVmzzKoyBfD1jv7q4mhxlTlHNoM1iiihAUVkUYoDIrIordEJIAGSeQ8aw03toGdlRFLMxAVQMkk8gBVxdB+iK2yFpFDOxVZGByOeepTxUEDU3xiMcgabvRrwFAryLkzjYy4GiIYzoiPxnOcE92+PNz410pRIxaLKscz4DYIDRJucqDybCsQSMADPMiukUeinTtmzPTDiQkkWzQCVdZaVjyUpgmPPxR2hrYd3ZAyThl6QdJ2thEqEZjjzGnly6517tTEYHMjltuUkssFgkiRgtIcMoZW0doalY6u1J4nIy7HuUVBuK3Ds3bJLHtOTzZjzLefL/6AxLluR63S2KXSz35LtYnu7p5XaSRizsSWY8yab7vYqx5A+7BGknyxtv50prSWPUMVB46NXo57Qw3KFGK45Hnzz4eVLLF9UToq75DZ7yRWt2xYYJ7SDHtXuJPeRXCzuOrYbgjv/1rdUfUi4xqXv1X7jvbyAqF7ipx9eVz4jf3U7jjlxknrCcydYchSC5TQWIIxupII5EU3W9mXJCAdWe0TkL1Tf7wsdlH6+QzXW4gKNpYqTpDZUMAVPIgOAw7wQRsRU6nDF0pUpbUH32/Ypfi8xOovv2xyA2ddDDAGPVAHlXZ+Pzkk5j7QIZeqi0tqZWJKkYLEohzz2FNZopY8HTVOLF8fFZgFUPgKQVGlcDClBjI5aTpI7xilfDLlpZGRzkzJoHIDUuDEABsBlQuB3MaZhXRHIIIOCCCCOYI3B+eg6abtds9A+iji/X2CIxy8BMLeOF3jJ9sZT66mdUz6M+LCLiJXlHexhlGRgSqGbGO4/wyf2Yq5q6Jnqy3BRRRWgKhPphnZeGSAHGuSJG81aQZHvqbVBPTR/4af6eD/qCgKR6Qy6REncIkPvkHWMf+ID2KK14ZaxqmTue/I+oVp0qGy45iGA+7qVz+umCPi7gYz+37YqGm1ke/A4ilSbcld3Yt6QWSDtDAPhXLg9xlGjPNN1PlncfXmkLyvMyp3k/sTThYLiSQ7bArty3x39/f8wpaysc8TKE9qaVo6ePNhXiihaCK0+IZxWcUptLXWQCyoDtqb/so3bl3bedcn4mFicwxBZEbBeXEjY8QhGhPmJ86JNlxg2YhjLHCgsfIZ/VVgdGeiWk9sapnACjHZjBXts/iUzpxjdiPi5JVdDLO4jsXvr+5mUyppgj1EBYzzcICFVnGQDjsjfmac+AdJ4oQEjtyWkOmMBj2jjZQuOyoGDz29p3tRsdo00nmO/HL8cPgSC1UG4kASFCCRrJI6xwPHc479PgDTBxdrawYs0XXXpiT8a+HX1icnvYk7n8o6RyBrtx7iiWIDuRNfSszqvcmoaNTY5IqggAc8Y5ZJhXCbc3LSyS3KqVcB5nUsWkJC5CKcnSCAByABqZSei1Pp4ahFLpa32r1fA78Mge9mkLSqJACzPKSQGPc2ObY38gMVG+MWTQzPG7BmUjLDODkBs7+0VNOh0dqwjDyR5LTrpVWV3EahBO5DEHVg7Y+NzqP9OoFW6Yo2VZVIG+VwNAVs9+FB99ZsWR5MdiZV3d5JaLgR4ig0E1g1J88S3ltq7S+sOXn5V04F0fM/b0nSG06VIDE5A5tsoyfzmONl7660nuI9LBwSBkFsb4/PA8R4jetTPTh6mewya2FmilYwiOoAbRjGAVDBxksFOCuHcMx0MMDICxzi7ZkWNpNcsaaesByC4Ziylj6xOd/fXex6WS2rLB1cbRquzDKSHUdWsP2tznGSCQAKZY2WV5Bk5LtIpPxSWJxnG9G8j69Gioys/uzTvp4fJ3VwwyBjxU81Ph+3dWaTrcAyBt8P2Wzz1j1TjzpQKk+Vi6Cpz6ujNhWwrUVmh5B4s75kiWVTh7WZXQ+IbVIV+eJh/aGvTcD6lDeIB+cZryuv8VuP7P/AAT16ksP4NP5i/4RVxPZTd4LxFFFFFUWFQT00f8Ahp/p4P8AqCp0KgvpnH/60+U8H/UFAUpxj1k/oIP+itQ/iMeltONuY23we7zqd3NiXeMMHANvEQQp7ol5k4AqK8atwzJoV86TqU4yvaOkHHiN/eKxZEU4T23bQaLcvyQHJwNvPuzT/bQ6FCj3nxPeaabBtDgMMDUuTyxg/wCtOqyTg9mInB5hGbO/nkU1ZdaEnBDjY8Okl9RdvyiQq/Of1DetOo/fAtgQGzhpCOygxksFPrYHefmqSQWE0skMiKzHGlxv2QN8nwH2VLPwKjVjcuAzsmnTzTBHf4nG3hVKJwjTSK66JdDbi6mEhOiLV/CyZBYDkUXm3d4Dzq3eD+jyxjLOUaV39YueznyQYHz5pBw1iJCCfZn/ALVN+HPkVR0Q3XvBoZnCzRh9I7GS3hjxxTLN0chjlMkYaKTQUDKdQA/mn/tjnUtvFwVfwNJOKRfGFDSpuM9GLyAtPJ++FY6jLGCe7ADJzQDYY3AFRxWkt7frxGGQoYmJZB+MaTIdlwWZSVfljOedX7wp9sU1dLOhFtdxOMdUzYJeNUyTqDEkEeKjOMZxUKCTueypjJzpdG+VykU50Q6RM1xFAqrCDI5XQ7JEuY220knfOe2TnfFLul8HWXuhZYnk6qPP4xTk9rPa5E8u+k3H/RZe25OhUuF54jJ1kf0ZGfmzTJxThTWzxMqSKMA4dSGDZywIwP2FU1c8EldWYsl4POufxTHH5GH/AMBNJJImHNWHtBH66W9IbMleuU4wurIJBHLljv8A9azw7iMkUbAM7sQpUvcPpGcZ2Xc7Zxgjc755VzaSLp4OVRNwG0HzrLAEb94pZLeSaiRNlTnAkKSkH84spzSe4mYrhmgU43KxqCR5AAAe2obR3/xVXiiP3anC+Kgr54zt+usW0gXBbO3dkD5xXS/mGyqSfFu8n3bYpJEMso3OSKpaHaT2anVd3kOF62qQNyDAEDPePL9udObnO/cQCPeM0zwrqMYPcccgO8d9S7hfCUkhRm63IUDsgFcADHMVltxOLi6lNy7V+hprK0431rDEQDHdkH4wEZHzYrrf2cEZA/fZyAQwijZd/HDg/VW7LPl9HISr/Fbn+z/wz16k4f8AwUf8xf8ACK8zXvDmjs53zqjcJocAgEgSgqQ26sMjKnx7xXpjhh/Ex/0af4RWxPRTygu9+wpoooqizXNUj0y6U3fELiexgg1RRPjGF3MbH8ZIzdlRqAxv3d9WB6SOkvwO1wrqkswZY2Y4C4A1N5kA7Cq44B0wsookEkeJdI61kkiKyso0iQ6nG5UDmKpImTI9P0evbmQs01sTtlRPkYHxeyCPrpbB0FvIQ8kggC5JyGzsfdnapHb9NuHLyQ+5rcf/ACU4D0j2BXSVfHhqt/8AMpKKZ0o15UXeJBL7ofKqCWV4dLerojeRj85AG3jTx0R6GQOFLmZtuWQinf8AJU+7nT6/T3hxQRlHwPO3/wAysW3pB4cnJXHvt/8AMoopaCpXnU+5j3wmxEE7QqgWJl7IUAD6uftp6jiJiKEbqSPsqJP6S7AkHEmR35t/8yuq+lCx3OJN/OD/ADK05XNbqBkkzg1J+EyHFRR/SVw88xJ88H+ZW6ek2wH+8/5P+ZQE+lXKkUkYao8HmNqiSelOx/8Ac/5X+ZQPSfYb/wAJ/wAr79AP1o2lqfQQR7RUC/2l8Pz/AOZ80f366D0pWHjJ80f36C5KOIbKknfG2D7OR+qk3SaESRZ0q48HRXHzMDUePpQsNx+MwfKL79a/7TrDTpPWfNH9+gIsskEc2DYwdrUpKBk2ZSpJUEodiea072nQOwmXZHT+tkfMCK3m6bcMY5If6Mf36VQekXh68jJ9FPv0sVGTjoxJceia30llMXjvHKT9Uorja+iyHshjbtrGVxHOnuJ61qel9J9h4yfNH9+sJ6S+H4AzJscjaPby9essjdt8SI8T9HvVscfAVHml4frDmm3hvRJpmbqG4c7Juf46uMeTHep9c+kbhj8+sP8AVT79N1l014VFIXTWpPPCLv8A8dLIdJLiR6LozamA6TY/DcjTiSfq853JVvKlnCujfFYVAjit5F04OJRud9wMbUpl6ScJMhcaxuT6i/fp3tPSNw5MDXJjHci/epZGObas2Ra+4Fxotq6iMeAEqD9bCuVzwrjmQ3wNtgPVeM589pKmM/pK4a/x5foL96t09KHDxtql/Rj71CSG3t3xIQlJ7OQLghwULIRyOrBIO2atT0cdKlvoHGkK8DiNgORGOywHdkZ28qYP9qfDvypfoDl3j1qi9r09jh4h1ttoWzYkyq2iN2LhNT4zvoKZHkWFZY25etFaowIBG4IyPZRWFFL/AP5AOTJaJ3Kkre9mQD/CaqqLhrNuKuz0l9Grm7uo2jhdo0jUahp3OWJAGoeNMadDbof+lk+YfeqkQ1mVwnBG/YGsngref11Zf4KXOP4rJ9EferH4KXPyWT6P+taZYrM8GbvP1GuD8IPj9Rq0h0Ruvksn0R9tc36H3XyWT6IoLFXPwlv2BrU8Kfz+urQPRC5+SyfR/wBKx+B9z8lk+ifsoLFYfuU/7ZrDcKf9gatH8Drn5LJ83+lanofc/JZfo/6UFisRwx8cv1/ZWf3Of9s1ZY6I3PyWX6B+7QeiFz8ll+ifu1hpWTcPbwzWFsHzyqyz0Puvksv0T9lY/A+6+Sy/QP2UBW3wF88tqGsW8Ksn8ELn5LN9A/ZQeiF18lm+gfsoZYrQ2jeFam0bwqyz0Ouvks30D9lafgZdfJZvoH7KCxW/wZscq0MRHcashuh118kn+g32VyboZdfJJ/oNQWK4da5tHVkP0Juvkc30Gri/Qe7+Rzfo3rDSvAtGmp43QO6+Rz/o3+yuL9A7v5Hcfon+ygsQlVrOPKpc/QW9+RXP6J/srReg178iuf0Mn2UMsRErWAM5qXHoPefIbr9DJ9lcz0Ivu6xuf0Mn2VoPSvQ+762wtJe97aFj7TGufrzRTf6No5E4bbRyxvG8aFCrqVYBWIBwd+WKKk6Elj5D2VvXOD1R7B+qulAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAGKKKKA//2Q==

They used green on thier carving tools:










and so it it possible there are some authentic Green MF eggbeaters?


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## DLK

So in the MF advertisements there is often a lot of green:










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mWwqqi6jzbSoAyfGl/R/g6TxXcjFgYIRIuMYJL6cN5Vy6K8KF1dw27MVEjEFhjIARnOM9/Zx76ZESdaUYpyyl28OJx4NMFlUMcI4MbHwVxpz7jhv6tXL6H+IkwS2j7PbyHA/Mck49ziRfcKrbitlw5I3Ea34kGy9aiCPOfjEDNO3Qfi/U31vOT2bhepk8OsJC5PnrVG/tjWpnToZUurJrw7NeewvOisCs1YCiiigCiiigCiiigCiiigK39NHFcQxWa51TvqYDn1cZU497lPbg1UfHph1pQHKxDqwR3lc6297lz7xUq6W8Z67iFzc6sx246uLw1KdA/5zavYhqBqp2AyScAd5JPIeZqWcaz0XPZz2licW6WG1uYXiKyIbGBXQ4ZdajIyOQZWANI7rifW2tgzyBpPhsryZIyNUgOW8Bz+aoynR66PKByfAFdX0dWr6qbZEIJUggg4IIIII7iDuDU2PXLGTUm5Rdty/u2e8stHSa74vGJok65UEbu4VCesB9bv2FNPAeGCy4jaNJcW7qXJLRyBlUBT6x7qhGKKWObxUHZuGjbWfF34Ev6SdGtPX3AvLSQancIkmpyCxOAO871Lmu5XtbRLe/s4VFpGkiSsmrVjcciRttVRUUsI4yEW2oa569/YT3ozxP4HbcSVZYzKGhEZ2ZXwzaiob1hjf31y6Xcea8srZ+sUFSyzQDSMSA4EqqO5h81QjNDGlmS8YrNbOWe/3tw8y3ej9zcxtF8J4rZPbqMPHrV2ZNJGndc55d/dVXcVdTNLoxo6xtOOWnO1IqK2xFfEqpHZStnfW/sS70b36w3Ujs4T97ShScDtYGkb9+aari/kvbiP4TKMsyozkKoVM7k42GFzTPWKWIWItCMLZLXtzvbQt2XinD3up/372Zofg4jMREahVGhuszjYrnPmajvDrOObhptfhNvFIt68n419IKdUqgjAOd/1VBKzWWO/1yf3R4rXc/AnnRq0jh+HWz3dvmW3RUk14iJ15wGPOmmPhLW9zAI7621EkrMjkpGQreucbZxj31GM1mliPqadktjTTrPL0LhteKzKJDd8UtJ4TDIOrTBZmK4XHZHfVccPfXHLGDhlPXIfDBCtjwwND/2VMwpXw256uVXO6g4YeKHsuPepIoZUxSm42ja3bf2R6V6KcW+FWkE/e8Y1jwcbOPcwNO1Vl6Hr4o1zYsclH62PzRjoYjy1BX/tKs2rR0CiiitAUUUUAUUUUAUx9NeM/BLKaf4yrhPORjpT6yD7qfKqn0xcQMs1tYRkZz1r+GSSkYPl65PsFAVneDq7eOPO8hMj5zkhSUTPv65vPUKUWlpIlp8JjVizzGHWvONdKnA8GkLYzzwpA50g4tciSVmGy5CoPzFARP8AhAqU+jO0XrZLmYnqLReuYE9ky47G3IkYJ+aoOdJqdV9unYIeN8DisYkWZdd5IocrkhLdTy9UjVJnxOB4d9KeJL8L4Yt4+89vMIHc85IiMpqPewJAzzrfjvDjdwpfIZ5rm5lbVGiF441ywCFgOywGnmcYNdLmIi3h4RbkSXEs3WTlDqVXxgR5HPSACx/NND0um1eNurbLv+Th0KgW3im4nKBiL8Xbg8nncEZx3hQfr8qiM8jMxZjlick+JPOp/wAbsjdXMPCrUgQ2qnXIfVDDeWVvYdh5mkvA+GWdzcvEsRFrAvWSXDO3WMqEE6/igPgqFABA5HahzlRckoJ2S9Xz5aEHIo01KuA8JivL12CdVZx6pZOeEhXkpb8puXz+FOaWFi9nd3ItyiK2i3kLtqaQnOFTlpAx4nnnyw5RwrlfrL57SBYoxUrtbG3hsIrplE0kszRnUGaOFUbB7AI1OV7QyaaukgtvhD/BM9RtpyCMdkZxnfGc8605zoOENptdw0CjFbYrOKHnNcUVtUp6H9D3uiskmUgLAZ5NJj1gnkAN2rUrmpN5IjsHD5GR5FXsoMk+QIBK+OMjNJTVsdLBDFFJ1ZWNljaJFx2QhHajVe9iNyTsNubHaqK1qxU4bJrigmtgueQJ9grEQLHAB99RtI6Qw1af2xb8AFbA1jFFLnK1iY9E+L9Rc2d1nADC2m/mnSgY/wBVoT/ZGvQgNeXuFYdJYTyZC6j89ASceZjMo9uK9Aej/jBurGGRjl1HVyf0kZ0MffgN76qJ64O8U/DnncSKiiiqLCiiigCiiigNXYAEk4A3Psrzrxbi5nmu74/HYxw+QbMaY9kSyHyOKtz0qcY+D8PkVTiSc9QmOeXB1EexA1UbxltCRQD4q9Y386QDA90YT3saxkVJWi3zz8j5wW/lS06q2gikMglW4JVC4JbEe7EaV0bg8s6s0k4rxJYbVeHwMGy3WXMi+rJJthFPeqgAZ7yKjJNFSQ8S9nZS3W+d2/tv2Djw2B3DHr1hjHrMzlQfIIvac+QHvqcdAby2iS7MMkaSrDiOWchGdjnJHPQgwuFGTvk57q1zWCaGUsQoW6t/H9cOcyxOB3cC2N7DBNGty5QNLK/V9ahOWKE7hd2GOZyT31m6torfhkcUU8em4Je5nBGcIcLCkedZ78DHjnGaromgGh0WLX4+vPyT/jfEYobCGyt2VTcMrzEEMVUkBVlZebd7DuxjlTlxl7NZ7S0llX4FBoACsG612GWlkKk6Uydydzv3b1V4rYUH1au7R9dCZ9LYZpJ362eKO2DfitMitH1Y9XqoYzknGO4e2ozfzRkgRJpRRgE7u3izkbZ8hsOVIgK72dq8rrHGpZ2OFUd+2e/kANyTsBQ51a/SN2Wvj4LgjeytGlcRoMsfEgADIBLE7KBkbmpta9F7GGMm9lm6xWKsqgIowOYO5I5YyQSNwKVcL4bHZQFJ49TyBpBJvobQuYkYEZxrGR3EkE79kNZ4HcXtyXKn4OkpiDMQM6Ww2nPrMTuW8W8trsSoWWmZ04R0ZtJmR0d2DOR1Iz2wDgEMwBA8eY251KOnHHUsEEcOn4SyaU0+rDHjGVU7KMZ0jvJLHlSDpTxMWSsuV61gEjRNtESrjmPVUnP5xxnbORVt67SBpHbbkTy7uQxyAGNhSTsdqdOU5bENf0aXfEHcl2Z5CMAsSSF35eA3Pd471wa/jTBbtH8n9th76R8R43JIqxghY1AAVRpXbvwO/wA6R2kezPj1R9Z5f96hq+p6qKjTfVV3xeY5ycblbARVQd22o/t7q3QOwwS2/rMTgnyULsvtrNuDo1ndiuc7cu4DHIVNeLdE0QsY5G0atKM2DgpDM8iMB8bMQwfBxUuyNlicRWclB6cfZaIVdEejKyQ9a8QmMqTaO0oEQjVwGYagS7OoxtgAEnnXGPg0Ys0IWJpnt5Zn1iXWAkhjPVuvYXTgdk51EnypFB0XmUGVJVAWNyzAEEfiVfRzydYdh/VbNK5+ATxLJAbtxEqNIyhWIOmRU9QSYwSc5znblQmEGkk4Z58N9uewjVncGN1kXmrBh5kHOKtb0T8REV1PaZ/FyqJ4fcBke+NoverVXj8BxHBIZlUTFANS6QNa6tjq7WNgfV3YeOacLS8NpJBcZJa0lCvkFSYmDNuu+2hpxzPqrvyrUzzU6c4XUlr3d/yei6K1jcMAwOQQCD4g7g1tXQsKKKKAKKKTcSvkgikmc4SNGdj5KpY/qoCofShxAXHEUtyfxVtHqffkzAvIfdGox5k1Wt7cmSRpG5sxb2ZPL3bD3U7XV6zRz3Ln8ZcysOfIE9a49gHVKPJjTAs6lgM4GQC59VfM43PsFScKilN7MUb1iu3E2t42AjuVmzzKoyBfD1jv7q4mhxlTlHNoM1iiihAUVkUYoDIrIordEJIAGSeQ8aw03toGdlRFLMxAVQMkk8gBVxdB+iK2yFpFDOxVZGByOeepTxUEDU3xiMcgabvRrwFAryLkzjYy4GiIYzoiPxnOcE92+PNz410pRIxaLKscz4DYIDRJucqDybCsQSMADPMiukUeinTtmzPTDiQkkWzQCVdZaVjyUpgmPPxR2hrYd3ZAyThl6QdJ2thEqEZjjzGnly6517tTEYHMjltuUkssFgkiRgtIcMoZW0doalY6u1J4nIy7HuUVBuK3Ds3bJLHtOTzZjzLefL/6AxLluR63S2KXSz35LtYnu7p5XaSRizsSWY8yab7vYqx5A+7BGknyxtv50prSWPUMVB46NXo57Qw3KFGK45Hnzz4eVLLF9UToq75DZ7yRWt2xYYJ7SDHtXuJPeRXCzuOrYbgjv/1rdUfUi4xqXv1X7jvbyAqF7ipx9eVz4jf3U7jjlxknrCcydYchSC5TQWIIxupII5EU3W9mXJCAdWe0TkL1Tf7wsdlH6+QzXW4gKNpYqTpDZUMAVPIgOAw7wQRsRU6nDF0pUpbUH32/Ypfi8xOovv2xyA2ddDDAGPVAHlXZ+Pzkk5j7QIZeqi0tqZWJKkYLEohzz2FNZopY8HTVOLF8fFZgFUPgKQVGlcDClBjI5aTpI7xilfDLlpZGRzkzJoHIDUuDEABsBlQuB3MaZhXRHIIIOCCCCOYI3B+eg6abtds9A+iji/X2CIxy8BMLeOF3jJ9sZT66mdUz6M+LCLiJXlHexhlGRgSqGbGO4/wyf2Yq5q6Jnqy3BRRRWgKhPphnZeGSAHGuSJG81aQZHvqbVBPTR/4af6eD/qCgKR6Qy6REncIkPvkHWMf+ID2KK14ZaxqmTue/I+oVp0qGy45iGA+7qVz+umCPi7gYz+37YqGm1ke/A4ilSbcld3Yt6QWSDtDAPhXLg9xlGjPNN1PlncfXmkLyvMyp3k/sTThYLiSQ7bArty3x39/f8wpaysc8TKE9qaVo6ePNhXiihaCK0+IZxWcUptLXWQCyoDtqb/so3bl3bedcn4mFicwxBZEbBeXEjY8QhGhPmJ86JNlxg2YhjLHCgsfIZ/VVgdGeiWk9sapnACjHZjBXts/iUzpxjdiPi5JVdDLO4jsXvr+5mUyppgj1EBYzzcICFVnGQDjsjfmac+AdJ4oQEjtyWkOmMBj2jjZQuOyoGDz29p3tRsdo00nmO/HL8cPgSC1UG4kASFCCRrJI6xwPHc479PgDTBxdrawYs0XXXpiT8a+HX1icnvYk7n8o6RyBrtx7iiWIDuRNfSszqvcmoaNTY5IqggAc8Y5ZJhXCbc3LSyS3KqVcB5nUsWkJC5CKcnSCAByABqZSei1Pp4ahFLpa32r1fA78Mge9mkLSqJACzPKSQGPc2ObY38gMVG+MWTQzPG7BmUjLDODkBs7+0VNOh0dqwjDyR5LTrpVWV3EahBO5DEHVg7Y+NzqP9OoFW6Yo2VZVIG+VwNAVs9+FB99ZsWR5MdiZV3d5JaLgR4ig0E1g1J88S3ltq7S+sOXn5V04F0fM/b0nSG06VIDE5A5tsoyfzmONl7660nuI9LBwSBkFsb4/PA8R4jetTPTh6mewya2FmilYwiOoAbRjGAVDBxksFOCuHcMx0MMDICxzi7ZkWNpNcsaaesByC4Ziylj6xOd/fXex6WS2rLB1cbRquzDKSHUdWsP2tznGSCQAKZY2WV5Bk5LtIpPxSWJxnG9G8j69Gioys/uzTvp4fJ3VwwyBjxU81Ph+3dWaTrcAyBt8P2Wzz1j1TjzpQKk+Vi6Cpz6ujNhWwrUVmh5B4s75kiWVTh7WZXQ+IbVIV+eJh/aGvTcD6lDeIB+cZryuv8VuP7P/AAT16ksP4NP5i/4RVxPZTd4LxFFFFFUWFQT00f8Ahp/p4P8AqCp0KgvpnH/60+U8H/UFAUpxj1k/oIP+itQ/iMeltONuY23we7zqd3NiXeMMHANvEQQp7ol5k4AqK8atwzJoV86TqU4yvaOkHHiN/eKxZEU4T23bQaLcvyQHJwNvPuzT/bQ6FCj3nxPeaabBtDgMMDUuTyxg/wCtOqyTg9mInB5hGbO/nkU1ZdaEnBDjY8Okl9RdvyiQq/Of1DetOo/fAtgQGzhpCOygxksFPrYHefmqSQWE0skMiKzHGlxv2QN8nwH2VLPwKjVjcuAzsmnTzTBHf4nG3hVKJwjTSK66JdDbi6mEhOiLV/CyZBYDkUXm3d4Dzq3eD+jyxjLOUaV39YueznyQYHz5pBw1iJCCfZn/ALVN+HPkVR0Q3XvBoZnCzRh9I7GS3hjxxTLN0chjlMkYaKTQUDKdQA/mn/tjnUtvFwVfwNJOKRfGFDSpuM9GLyAtPJ++FY6jLGCe7ADJzQDYY3AFRxWkt7frxGGQoYmJZB+MaTIdlwWZSVfljOedX7wp9sU1dLOhFtdxOMdUzYJeNUyTqDEkEeKjOMZxUKCTueypjJzpdG+VykU50Q6RM1xFAqrCDI5XQ7JEuY220knfOe2TnfFLul8HWXuhZYnk6qPP4xTk9rPa5E8u+k3H/RZe25OhUuF54jJ1kf0ZGfmzTJxThTWzxMqSKMA4dSGDZywIwP2FU1c8EldWYsl4POufxTHH5GH/AMBNJJImHNWHtBH66W9IbMleuU4wurIJBHLljv8A9azw7iMkUbAM7sQpUvcPpGcZ2Xc7Zxgjc755VzaSLp4OVRNwG0HzrLAEb94pZLeSaiRNlTnAkKSkH84spzSe4mYrhmgU43KxqCR5AAAe2obR3/xVXiiP3anC+Kgr54zt+usW0gXBbO3dkD5xXS/mGyqSfFu8n3bYpJEMso3OSKpaHaT2anVd3kOF62qQNyDAEDPePL9udObnO/cQCPeM0zwrqMYPcccgO8d9S7hfCUkhRm63IUDsgFcADHMVltxOLi6lNy7V+hprK0431rDEQDHdkH4wEZHzYrrf2cEZA/fZyAQwijZd/HDg/VW7LPl9HISr/Fbn+z/wz16k4f8AwUf8xf8ACK8zXvDmjs53zqjcJocAgEgSgqQ26sMjKnx7xXpjhh/Ex/0af4RWxPRTygu9+wpoooqizXNUj0y6U3fELiexgg1RRPjGF3MbH8ZIzdlRqAxv3d9WB6SOkvwO1wrqkswZY2Y4C4A1N5kA7Cq44B0wsookEkeJdI61kkiKyso0iQ6nG5UDmKpImTI9P0evbmQs01sTtlRPkYHxeyCPrpbB0FvIQ8kggC5JyGzsfdnapHb9NuHLyQ+5rcf/ACU4D0j2BXSVfHhqt/8AMpKKZ0o15UXeJBL7ofKqCWV4dLerojeRj85AG3jTx0R6GQOFLmZtuWQinf8AJU+7nT6/T3hxQRlHwPO3/wAysW3pB4cnJXHvt/8AMoopaCpXnU+5j3wmxEE7QqgWJl7IUAD6uftp6jiJiKEbqSPsqJP6S7AkHEmR35t/8yuq+lCx3OJN/OD/ADK05XNbqBkkzg1J+EyHFRR/SVw88xJ88H+ZW6ek2wH+8/5P+ZQE+lXKkUkYao8HmNqiSelOx/8Ac/5X+ZQPSfYb/wAJ/wAr79AP1o2lqfQQR7RUC/2l8Pz/AOZ80f366D0pWHjJ80f36C5KOIbKknfG2D7OR+qk3SaESRZ0q48HRXHzMDUePpQsNx+MwfKL79a/7TrDTpPWfNH9+gIsskEc2DYwdrUpKBk2ZSpJUEodiea072nQOwmXZHT+tkfMCK3m6bcMY5If6Mf36VQekXh68jJ9FPv0sVGTjoxJceia30llMXjvHKT9Uorja+iyHshjbtrGVxHOnuJ61qel9J9h4yfNH9+sJ6S+H4AzJscjaPby9essjdt8SI8T9HvVscfAVHml4frDmm3hvRJpmbqG4c7Juf46uMeTHep9c+kbhj8+sP8AVT79N1l014VFIXTWpPPCLv8A8dLIdJLiR6LozamA6TY/DcjTiSfq853JVvKlnCujfFYVAjit5F04OJRud9wMbUpl6ScJMhcaxuT6i/fp3tPSNw5MDXJjHci/epZGObas2Ra+4Fxotq6iMeAEqD9bCuVzwrjmQ3wNtgPVeM589pKmM/pK4a/x5foL96t09KHDxtql/Rj71CSG3t3xIQlJ7OQLghwULIRyOrBIO2atT0cdKlvoHGkK8DiNgORGOywHdkZ28qYP9qfDvypfoDl3j1qi9r09jh4h1ttoWzYkyq2iN2LhNT4zvoKZHkWFZY25etFaowIBG4IyPZRWFFL/AP5AOTJaJ3Kkre9mQD/CaqqLhrNuKuz0l9Grm7uo2jhdo0jUahp3OWJAGoeNMadDbof+lk+YfeqkQ1mVwnBG/YGsngref11Zf4KXOP4rJ9EferH4KXPyWT6P+taZYrM8GbvP1GuD8IPj9Rq0h0Ruvksn0R9tc36H3XyWT6IoLFXPwlv2BrU8Kfz+urQPRC5+SyfR/wBKx+B9z8lk+ifsoLFYfuU/7ZrDcKf9gatH8Drn5LJ83+lanofc/JZfo/6UFisRwx8cv1/ZWf3Of9s1ZY6I3PyWX6B+7QeiFz8ll+ifu1hpWTcPbwzWFsHzyqyz0Puvksv0T9lY/A+6+Sy/QP2UBW3wF88tqGsW8Ksn8ELn5LN9A/ZQeiF18lm+gfsoZYrQ2jeFam0bwqyz0Ouvks30D9lafgZdfJZvoH7KCxW/wZscq0MRHcashuh118kn+g32VyboZdfJJ/oNQWK4da5tHVkP0Juvkc30Gri/Qe7+Rzfo3rDSvAtGmp43QO6+Rz/o3+yuL9A7v5Hcfon+ygsQlVrOPKpc/QW9+RXP6J/srReg178iuf0Mn2UMsRErWAM5qXHoPefIbr9DJ9lcz0Ivu6xuf0Mn2VoPSvQ+762wtJe97aFj7TGufrzRTf6No5E4bbRyxvG8aFCrqVYBWIBwd+WKKk6Elj5D2VvXOD1R7B+qulAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAFFFFAGKKKKA//2Q==

They used green on thier carving tools:










and so it it possible there are some authentic Green MF eggbeaters?


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## adot45

Here is the 2 I just got, very lucky. 













































This was just a basic cleaning, like to keep things original as possible, without being ugly. This plane needs more soap and water and don't think for a minute it won't get it. Not crazy about the shape of the plating of the lever cap but am getting used to it.

This plane is a type 8~9 hybrid*, 1899~1907. It has a type 8 base with the number stamped in the toe. It has a type 9 frog in that the date does not appear on the lateral, just the name stanley. I'm sure it's been like that for 110 years and not a Frankenplane. The frog screws had no tool marks. I'm pretty happy.


plane dating flow chart at hyperkitten


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## Handtooler

WOW! What a wonderful acquisition. Use it proudly and keep her sniny.


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## BlasterStumps

"This plane is a type 8~9 hybrid*, 1899~1907." 
I refer to Rex Mill's Type Study. Here: http://www.rexmill.com/planes101/typing/typing.htm
Nice plane.


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## donwilwol

I believe rexmill follows Roger Smith's type study like almost everyone else. That type study is based on a #4 Plane. Although you should be very happy with the#2, I think it's newer than a type 8/9. A type 8/9 would have a plain cap and low knob. A type 2 can be a bit of a challenge to type.


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## adot45

I did wonder about that cap, finding a plain one would be more the look I like.
I'm not real concerned with type but I do like to have things period correct.
This one will do me well until I find a deal on a nicer one. Thanks for the info.


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## donwilwol

That is probably a SW so it's pretty nice for that reason. It's a cool piece either way but I'm with you, I kind of like the older style as well.


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## BlasterStumps

I agree with that Don. I am still trying to date the one I have. It has low knob, smooth lever cap, triangle logo blade, early frog, no frog adjuster screw, no patent dates on plane body. Most things lead me to believe it is type 8 or earlier but the triangle logo blade doesn't fit in there. Oh well, my fingers 'don't fit in there' either. : ) 
Mike


> "A type 2 can be a bit of a challenge to type."
> 
> - Don W


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## adot45

> That is probably a SW so it s pretty nice for that reason. It s a cool piece either way but I m with you, I kind of like the older style as well.
> 
> - Don W


Yep, sweetheart blade
And since it can't be any older than it's newest part, the first thing I'll look for is the right cap.
That thing was kinda a hodge podge of parts…...oh well I'm still enamored with it


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## BlasterStumps

Don K, are those Millers Falls advertisements something that you have hard copies of? 
Mike


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## DLK

> Don K, are those Millers Falls advertisements something that you have hard copies of?
> Mike
> 
> - BlasterStumps


Just searched around for them.


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## Bundoman

Combo…

I have a set of the green MF carving tools that have the green color and I like it alot. I was not sure if the drills were ever green, but I found a little bit of what appeared to be a bit of old paint on the large gear. It was hard to tell for sure with the green on green repaint. I am liking your reasoning on this…


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## DLK

Thanks, how are the MF carving tools. I've looked at them, but have not pulled the trigger.


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## Bundoman

Combo…

I believe that I actually have 2 sets although one is badged as Craftsman. Both sets have identical handles but the Craftsman handles are entirely green. I suspect that Millers Falls made them for Sears. I have a daughter with some woodworking interest and passed the Craftsmans to her for her tool kit when I got the Millers Falls set. I have dabbled with them a little bit and they do not seem too bad. I have not put them to the test on any big projects however. The MF set was my late father-in-laws and my mother-in-law passed them to me. Glad to have them…


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## BlasterStumps

i just recently bought a MF 106 carving set with the six chisels IOB. Looks very clean and almost unused. Now I need to learn how to sharpen them. I'll post a pic when they show up.


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## bandit571

Picked these a few months ago….have since sent them on to other places, since I don't carve…









The three red handled ones are part of a No. 106 set…never found the rest of them…


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## DLK

> i just recently bought a MF 106 carving set with the six chisels IOB. Looks very clean and almost unused. Now I need to learn how to sharpen them. I ll post a pic when they show up.
> 
> - BlasterStumps


Most carving gouges are out-cannel. These I sharpen/hone with diamond paddles by holding the gouge bevel up in my left hand and drawing the paddle over the bevel. (you can also glue strips of sandpaper to sticks of wood for the paddles.) I also have a handheld strop (leather glued to a block of wood) that I can draw over the bevel. Or you can set the gouge on a block of wood and sharpen in the method that Paul sellers does for spokeshaves and knives. The inside curve can be polished by first making a rounded over block that fits the gouge. This can be made by pushing the gouge over a piece of softwood of the correct width. You can then either wrap wet/dry sandpaper over the block or charge it with honing compound. You can use the roll or figure 8 method on sharpening stones (see this Paul sellers video), but the paddles I find easier. V-gouges can be tricky to keep from rounding over the V-point, you have to pay attention. A V-slip stone helps.

In-cannel gouges and irons for moulding plane rounds I sharpen with sandpaper wrapped dowels or rounded over blocks.


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## BlasterStumps

Thanks Don K. I will tuck that info away in my memory banks. I will surely need to touch the chisels up before use so I am going to have to learn the ins and outs of sharpening fairly soon. Thanks again.
Mike


----------



## DLK

Once you learn what sharp is and then how to sharpen and properly hand tools become a joy to use and you will be forever hooked. It's such a pleasure sometimes I just make shavings and drill holes for no reason except for the pleasure. I do recommend studying Paul Seller videos and buying The Perfect Edge: The Ultimate Guide to Sharpening for Woodworkers (Popular Woodworking) by Ron Hock. Also buy an eye loupe (10x) to really look at an edge. Early on I thought I did my sharpening correctly, but I could not get an unusual plane I picked up to make shavings. Looking at the edge through a loupe explained it. (The loupe is also useful for say reading obscured maker marks on old tools.) Hints: you must make a burr. Otherwise you will have a blunt edge. You won't succeed unless the back is flat. Supported blades such as in planes will clog if the supports (frog and chipbreaker) do not meet perfectly with the blade, so these must also be tuned. It's actually not that difficult once you understand what sharp is. Ron Hock's book gave me the understanding, but Paul Sellers gave me methods that I could do. Then I developed some of my own techniques. I tried oil stones, sandpaper and diamond stones. I like diamond stones the best, but depending on the tool I may use the others. I lubricate stones with glass cleaner.


----------



## ToddJB

Tried my hand at doing some pipe restoration. Pretty pleased.














































All the lipstick is done, now I just need to clean out the innards for smoking.


----------



## JayT

Well there's a first for this thread. Nice work, Todd.


----------



## terryR

A pipe is a fine tool.
Good work, Todd.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice work Todd.


----------



## Just_Iain

Brings back memories of one uncle. Very well done!


----------



## BlasterStumps

If you don't mind my asking Todd, what did you use on the pipes to get them to shine so?
Mike


----------



## ColonelTravis

Not into pipes but Todd you make me want to get into pipes. Great saves.


----------



## ColonelTravis

> - Don W


I have gone into this thread so many times over the years and I automatically skip over Don's Post #1 photos and feel like an idiot but I never noticed this mammoth jointer until now, I guess I always thought it was an old board.

How long is that thing???


----------



## bandit571

IIRC….that be a 6' long Cooper's Jointer plane.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Thanks. 
OK I found a picture of Don so it makes sense.


----------



## HokieKen

Nice purrdees Todd! I have no need for a pipe and know jack crap about 'em. But I do know some sexy wood that's been shown some TLC when I see it!


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks, guys. I find pipes to be very beautiful items



> If you don t mind my asking Todd, what did you use on the pipes to get them to shine so?
> Mike
> 
> - BlasterStumps


Mike, I built a long buffing arbor for my lathe. It has three buffering wheels on it. I used Tripoli compound on the stems, the used White Diamond and Red Rouge compounds over the whole thing.


----------



## bandit571

Smoked a pipe for over 40 years, until a Quad Bypass ended such things. Best way I found to shine the bowls, was to rub the bowl along side my nose. The skin's oil, followed by a soft cloth, shined things right up.


----------



## coopersdad

Most of my planes have been usable from purchase with just some cleaning and sharpening. I've wanted a Stanley No. 7 for a while, and found this one at an estate sale for ten bucks. 









Very rusty and most of the japanning was gone, the tote horn was broken off, and the knob had a few cracks. Otherwise it appeared to have not been abused much, so after studying posts in this thread I decided to go for a full restoration.

I had a piece of rosewood to glue onto the tote, and after some stain, it matches pretty well. The knob was about black, so I had to sand it to get some grain to show, and the few cracks closed up a lot with a bit of finish. The smaller parts were cleaned with Evaporust, and the plane body and frog with electrolysis (first time for me, what a great process!). After 24 hrs. there were still some stubborn bits of japanning left, but overall it cleaned up well.

For paint, I tried the Dupli-Color engine enamel, and failed miserably. I followed the directions, even used a timer to get coats 10 minutes apart, and all coats in an hour. After a week, the places where the paint dried were flat black, with many large areas of bright glossy, sticky, undried paint. I stripped that off with MEK and used some hardware store semi gloss, and it looks ok. The thicker paint would look better, and fill the casting roughness, but it looks OK I think. Not sure where I went wrong with the enamel. 









Based on the typing flowchart, I believe it is Type 8, from about 1900. I noticed the blade adjuster works opposite from all my other planes - turning it clockwise retracts the blade. Was that something that changed later, or did someone long ago replace that part with an incorrect one for some reason?


----------



## bandit571

The older Stanleys used a right hand thread on the adjusters,,,,later they switched to the left hand stuff…..and no, you can't switch between the two threads.


----------



## donwilwol

The 7 looks good. I can't imagine what might have happened with the first paint, but then you know what they say, $hit happens! I like the older Stanley's.


----------



## adot45

Very nice looking plane, good job on the tote.


----------



## coopersdad

Thanks! It was a fun project. Good to know about the adjuster. I know it's "backwards" on the transitional plane of about the same period, so it makes sense. Of course I'll forget every time I use it….

It looks good with its buddies:










My guess on the paint was I was on the low side of the temperature range, which I have read is fairly critical. I brought it inside later, but it was likely too late. I'll try again on something else in warmer temps and see.


----------



## donwilwol

I would suggest a little longer than 10 minutes as well, especially if it's a little cool.


----------



## donwilwol

> - Don W
> 
> I have gone into this thread so many times over the years and I automatically skip over Don s Post #1 photos and feel like an idiot but I never noticed this mammoth jointer until now, I guess I always thought it was an old board.
> 
> How long is that thing???
> 
> - ColonelTravis


It is 69"


----------



## Tim457

Quite a revival on that #7, nice work.

I would have said maybe you got a bad can of paint, but too cold makes sense to cause issues too. I can't claim any painting talent, but I was quite impressed at how well the Duplicolor worked and looked like japanning.


----------



## onoitsmatt

Coopersdad, nice job on the 7, but I also like that till. Trying to come up with something like tgat for my go-to tools. Any chance you'd post a project of it with some more photos /details?

Also, I had a No. 5 with the reversed adjuster. Drove me batty. I gave it to my brother in-law.


----------



## ColonelTravis

Thanks Don. Have you used it for anything?


----------



## donwilwol

> Thanks Don. Have you used it for anything?
> 
> - ColonelTravis


It's a great conversation piece on display in my dining room.


----------



## coopersdad

Matt, thanks. Unfortunately I didn't take any photos during construction and threw away the scrap of paper I designed it on. If you want I can take some photos/measurements and email them or something. I stole most of the ideas by searching mostly here and other sites for "saw and plane till". It's made from 3/4" pine, top and bottom corners are dovetailed, not necessary but what the heck, as are the drawers. Drawer fronts are from a piece of beetle kill pine I had laying around. Everything else is either a dado or butt/screwed joint. I did rabbet the plywood back to be flush with the sides. It is screwed to the wall through a cleat at the top.

The depth I figured to be deep enough to hold the planes in the shelves, as well as being an angle the saws would lean and not fall over. They are resting on curtain rod, but a rounded bit of 3/4 pine would do as well. The plates are in kerfs in a ripped piece of 2×4. The plane till is made as a separate piece, with thin strips tacked to take the planes I had (and wanted, the spot for the 7 was bare…). It's just screwed in from the side and middle divider.

I was planning to paint it, but ended up with a couple wipe on coats of BLO/poly/mineral spirits. I'm already planning a small addition - should always make things bigger than I think I need….


----------



## DLK

Coop I too like that till. Very nice! When I get all moved. I may make a new till similar to yours. How deep is it?


----------



## coopersdad

Don, it is 9" deep inside. 1/4" ply inset back, so side, top and bottom boards are 9 1/4". 55" tall, 48" wide. Those were based on the area I had to work with, I'd have made it wider if I could. Saw slots are about 1 1/8" apart. Wood plane/tool shelf height is 7 1/2". Should've made it a bit taller, my plan is to add another shelf that size with dividers to the bottom for more…..good stuff!


----------



## DLK

That should make the slanted board holding your jointer, which I assume is 24" long to be at between 67 and 70 degrees. So how do you secure the planes on it. I'd be afraid they would fall off. Also can you access the space behind it?


----------



## ColonelTravis

> It s a great conversation piece on display in my dining room.
> 
> - Don W


You could turn it into a giant lazy susan solely for hot dogs.


----------



## coopersdad

I thought about a hinge for accessing the space behind the planes, but it really isn't that much room, and the plane till is heavy, so I bagged that idea.

To hold the planes, there is a piece of 3/4" pine, about 1 1/2" wide, with a 1/2" rabbet, nailed where the toe of the plane rests. To insert a plane, tilt the heel up and slide the toe under the rabbet, then place the plane flat on the board, and the heel rests against the bottom ledge of the plane board. To remove one, pull the heel up and the plane comes out. The only danger is you must pull it straight up and out - if you snag another plane and pull its heel out, gravity takes over. Hasn't happened yet. The heel must come up about an inch or more, so a slight jostle won't lead to disaster. I thought maybe a rare earth magnet embedded in the till near the heel of each plane might help but I decided to try it this way, and no issues so far.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

This Razee Jack was pretty chewed up and the blade was very short and bowed. I chopped about 1/2" off the front repaired the tote, made a wedge to work with the new 1/4" single iron, changed the angle of the abutments,and refinished it. The maker was JA King Newark, 1835-1837 as far as I can find info. I was going to tighten the mouth up with a wear strip but didn't have to with the thickness of the new blade.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter




----------



## summerfi

Very nice work Turtle.


----------



## corelz125

That came out real nice turtle


----------



## donwilwol

A great revival turtle


----------



## terryR

Looks great, TTC.


----------



## adot45

Nice job, looks ready to go.


----------



## Tim457

Really nicely done, Turtle.


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Thanks Guys, Wishing you all a Happy Thanksgiving !


----------



## JenniferMichaels

Great Job!
Happy Thanksgiving to all.


----------



## maxhall

Finally started cleaning up a 5 1/2 stanley I've had for quite awhile. Pretty heavily covered in rust but appeared to be in good condition otherwise. After I removed the grime/rust from the sides of the plane I noticed this crack. Is this worth trying to repair? Pretty sure I paid <$30 for the plane so not a big deal if I just cannibalize it for parts.


----------



## Tim457

It can be brazed but I'm going to guess you wouldn't come out ahead unless you knew someone that could do it cheap. Or if you were interested in learning how.


----------



## TheFridge

A 5-1/2 is worth it to me.


----------



## robscastle

Nice work on the tools guys!

I have some restoration shots of an Auto Wiper motor I did, not quite as impressive as the other posts but,
Its possibly of interest to any woodworkers who are involved with Show and Shine on some of their other Pride and Joys (Automotives)

Here is the original motor










And after I introduced it to my wood polishing gear.










I simply used a buffing pad and polish to get the initial result, make sure you seggegrate the pad from your usual WW ones as it gets metal contaminated.
A coat of clear laquer will seal the surface and retain the finish. It will however break down and need redoing in time.


----------



## robscastle

Duplicate post


----------



## bandit571

Max: Look up Dave Bardin @ Chisel & Forge, and see what he says….

Have a "before"...









Might take me a day or two to get it presentable…...4"x 24" 11 ppi mitre saw.


----------



## bandit571

And now the after….









Got rid of these things..replaced with..









Something a little better…cleaned the plate, never was an edge….Rounded all the sharp corners on the handle..









Assemble things back up…...added a coat of amber shellac to the handle…









Then set up the mitre box, and tried the saw out..









Cuts fast and straight…...a look at the non-showy side?









Mitre box is a Stanley No. 2246A


----------



## Just_Iain

Turtle, it looks great!

I'm going to take some extra time after the New Year to finish some restoration jobs started last summer and get started on some like my 45s. Most I can hope on the 45s is knocking off a enough corrosion to take them apart and see what I have. I'm hoping for one user that might be a frankenplane to the purists. And maybe some parts to pass on. We'll see.


----------



## coopersdad

I just finished restoring a Langdon Acme mitre box, which appears to have been made before they were bought by Millers Falls. For some reason many of our local antique stores put old hand tools outside uncovered, and keep them there; I guess they think people like "patina…" Drives me nuts, unless I can find something before it gets too degraded and isn't overpriced - usually they charge as much as a pristine example. Saw this guy sitting there with a $40 tag, and had decided it wasn't worth the work. I was fiddling with it when the owner came out and said she'd take $20. Darn her.

The mechanism was rusted together, nothing would move, and the saw looked pitiful, especially the handle. Chipped top horn, bottom one had been broken off and glued and nailed back on. The sawplate looked bad, but seemed to have some potential shine underneath the rust. The plate appeared to be dead straight.




























I worked on the saw first, and was surprised the rust came off the plate and back easily, and revealed a nice etch. I enhanced it a bit with some cold blue, and used some on the back as well. I tried to salvage the bottom horn, but eventually cut it off and grafted on a whole new one, and grafted a smaller bit on the top horn to repair the big chip. After lots of rasping and sanding to get through the whitish weathered layer, I applied three coats of tung oil/mineral spirits, wiped on and then off. I didn't want it to look brand new, so I left some dings and staining (yeah, that's it-not that I'm lazy).




























I soaked all the smaller bits in Evaporust, and put the main body and bed plates in electrolysis. The electrolysis removed the rust on the bed plates, but left the silver paint, which I wonder is maybe nickel plating? Quite a bit of that was left, so I decided to leave it.

The main casting parts I painted with some Rustoleum hammered black, which looks dark gray to me. The little bit of original paint I found on the under side appeared to be a very dark greenish color with some bronze flecks, and not finding anything close, I just went with the black. There were a lot of things to tape off, and after I started reassembly, discovered a few I'd missed. I found I could carefully use some MEK on a swab to get most of it, then sand the rest off. That's how I did the fence, which I think was quicker than taping all those ribs. I'm pleased with how it came out. Haven't had time to play with it yet.


----------



## bandit571

The before.shots..









One saw was junk, the other had good "bones" 









Sooo, cleaned things up…









Bolts clean and shined up. handle was refinished..









Slots were clocked…









A Disston D-112…..26" skew back, 7 ppi crosscut. Doesn't look a day over 90, does it? 
There is a very faint etch. Teeth will not need to be refreshed, sharp enough now. 
Might be a "Keeper"?


----------



## WillliamMSP

> - coopersdad


Awesome results - nice job.


----------



## Johnny7

>


A tastefully done restoration.


----------



## BlasterStumps

Coopersdad you did a great job on both the saw and the mitre box. Nice work! 
Mike


----------



## ToddJB

And done.























































How about a slightly modified bit brace knob?










And home


----------



## BlasterStumps

Wow! Great job. Stand and all! Do you have other WT pieces?


----------



## HokieKen

That is super-sexalicious Todd! Nice work brother.


----------



## bandit571

Saw looks like brand new, nice work.


----------



## summerfi

Todd, I give you an A+ on the scroll saw, but only because there is no higher grade.


----------



## ToddJB

Thanks dudes.

Blaster, it's my only WT, most of my tools are vintage, but I'm equal opportunity with brands and the opportunity is defined by price. I buy the cheap old tools I find and fix 'em up. Most of my shop is old Delta, but only really because that's what I find on craigslist.


----------



## DanKrager

Todd, that is drool worthy. When I get to needing restoration, I hope to find someone as diligent as you about the details.

DanK


----------



## donwilwol

Awesome WT.


----------



## pistonrod

Found this old Record 4-1/2 at an antique shop. I scooped it up as soon as I walked in the door. Talked to the shop owner an bought the plane and a set of Irwin bits for $25. It cleaned up nicely and had almost all of the original japanning. I decided to keep the decal on the tote and lacquer over it.

Before:



























After:


----------



## terryR

That is fabulous!


----------



## adot45

Wow , nice find and an excellent job. Looks terrific.


----------



## pistonrod

Thanks


----------



## WillliamMSP

Wow - nice find!


----------



## Brit

Cleaned up a nice old marking gauge today. Didn't need much really.

Before:




























After:



















And a family shot:


----------



## woodcox

Nice long beam to it. That's a fine one in the clan.


----------



## RonAylor1760

J. Pearce 16" Jack Plane No. 109 with Ohio Tools Thistle Brand iron.

Before:




























After:




























Thanks for looking!


----------



## donwilwol

Nice


----------



## Dave618

This is a Henry Boker block plane of about a century or more ago and was my grandfather's. It hasn't seen a bit of wood for about 70 years. It was split in two and held together with ply on both sides. 
It wouldn't make a shaving and after my success on my wooden fore plane repair, thought I'd give this one a go. 


















After stripping it down, I glued it back with epoxy, flattened the face with my #4 and made a new wedge.


























It will now take a shaving and although I t's not the prettiest of repairs, it has again made it serviceable.


----------



## donwilwol

Another good save.


----------



## Dave618

Thanks Don
It's so rewarding resurrecting these tools from the 1800's and getting them back working like new. I can feel a real obsession coming on. Damn it!


----------



## Just_Iain

Good Morning,

Any suggestions for a new Stanley #2 tote? It doesn't need to rosewood or finished.

or

Does anyone have a link for the pattern to cut/drill a Stanley #2 tote. I don't want to modify my original.

Iain


----------



## DLK

> Good Morning,
> 
> Any suggestions for a new Stanley #2 tote? It doesn t need to rosewood or finished.
> 
> or
> 
> Does anyone have a link for the pattern to cut/drill a Stanley #2 tote. I don t want to modify my original.
> 
> Iain
> 
> - Just_Iain


Lee Valley has free stanley tote templates..


----------



## Just_Iain

Thanks Don, that was what I needed for the pattern.

Iain


----------



## socrbent

This is a great thread with many very knowledgeable members. Here is my humble submission of a restore. suggestions and comments welcome.

I inherited these 2 wood planes for my dad who got them from his dad. Started to clean them up in 2012, Six years later I finally got around to finishing the job. I have done 4 more turpentine baths, removed remainder of broken tote, clamped and glued crack on base of the smaller plane, created new totes from some aged cherry, cleaned metal parts with Evaporust, applied some rust preventative, made a new wedge for larger plane from oak, applied two coats of BLO, and buffed out with Beal system.

They now have a special shelf in my shop.

Both planes appear to have been used bevel down. Is that usual?

Started like this:









Ended like this:













































Blog #1: Looking for suggestions - http://lumberjocks.com/socrbent/blog/30684
Blog #2: clean up reveals… - http://lumberjocks.com/socrbent/blog/30793


----------



## corelz125

Nice work on those 2 socrbent. Thats great bringing back to life your family history


----------



## Dave618

Socrbent, they are 2 nice rejuvenation efforts. Nice work on the totes and wedge. Just wondering, because of the longer tote recess on the longer one, if it didn't originally had a fully enclosed tote,
Great work.


----------



## socrbent

Thanks guys. Dave - I didn't understand that the longer plane likely had a D shaped tote until I had glued a new one in.


----------



## Tim457

Nice job on those and the tote replacements. Yes, bevel down is standard for bench planes.


----------



## pistonrod

Stanley SW 62

Before:


















After:





































I had high hopes that I could use this plane, but the cracks in the mouth distort the sole too much when the lever cap is tightened. Not really sure what to do with it now. I'm not really a collector and would rather have a working tool.


----------



## RonAylor1760

> Nice
> 
> - Don W


Thanks, Don. After using this plane I see that I'll have to add a s light camber to the iron … it's leaving some ridges.


----------



## donwilwol

Stanley #1


----------



## corelz125

you cleaned that one up fast Don looks better with out those boogers hanging off the sides. The sole was flat?


----------



## donwilwol

The sole was flat. I had to shorten the cap screw to get rid of the washer, sharpen it and she was good.

I will probably fix the horn one of these days.


----------



## CFrye

Don, that's the caliber of plane that I find and buy…without the rarity of it being a No. 1! Nice shavings. Will it be a user?


----------



## donwilwol

> Don, that s the caliber of plane that I find and buy…without the rarity of it being a No. 1! Nice shavings. Will it be a user?
> 
> - CFrye


That is the plan


----------



## corelz125

That seems like a tight fit for your hand on the rear tote. Is it as bad as it looks?


----------



## donwilwol

A #1 is held like a block plane, not like a bench plane. It works rather well when you use it that way.


----------



## Just_Iain

I got the chance to try a Woodriver #1 on the weekend and couldn't get any fingers between the tote and adjuster. By comparison, I can easily get a 3 finger grip on the #2 I got from Don. I'm thinking anyone older than 10 years old is out of luck.


----------



## corelz125

I'll probably never get my fat fingers on a #1


----------



## donwilwol

> I ll probably never get my fat fingers on a #1
> 
> - corelz125


Pick up a #1 and pretend the tote is a knuckle cap. You'll find it works rather well and offers a different action. You have more control over a block.


----------



## corelz125

I worded that wrong Don, I meant to say that I i wll probably never even get to own or hold a #1 the prices they go for.


----------



## donwilwol

Ahh, I see I read it wrong. Woodriver

Edit. Hit post accidentally. Wood River are $100. Not a bad buy.


----------



## TheFridge

I know it's pricey. The LN #1 is fantastic. I would say it's is the most used plane I have now with my work being centered on small boxes of sorts.

Like don, I use it like a block with a chipbreaker. I'll eventually cut the tote down to and infill a little bun to make it more comfortable but I find the #1 size is exceptional for jewelry/small storage boxes.


----------



## BlasterStumps

I went to a tool sale a couple weeks ago. One of our guild members passed away and the family was clearing out some of his workshop tools and equipment. I found this 4" Desmond Simplex vise there. I only have an "after" picture though. I cleaned it, stripped the old paint and after cleaning up the mating of the jaws and the anvil surface, I painted it. Not the best paint job but it hopefully will make a nice addition to my shop. I am looking for a pair of soft jaws to go with it now.


----------



## Tim457

Blaster, paint job looks great, that's a great vise too. Your post reminds me I need to make some better soft jaws. I've seen anything from sheet copper or brass bent so that they stay around the steel jaws to milling a piece of plastic like UHMW or Delrin to size then drilling holes and mounting in place of the steel jaws. I think I like the idea of something I can hang or clip on easily. Right now I have two pieces of softwood with a tight fitting mortice in them that fits over my steel jaws. It works great, but they're getting beat up and they move around under a lot of force if the piece being held is on the edges of the soft jaw faces.


----------



## BlasterStumps

I have a set of the aluminum jaws for the 4-1/2" Starrett that I have. I really like them and keep them on the vise most of the time. I'm thinking maybe some plastic jaws for the Simplex vise or maybe leather of some fashion.


----------



## warrenkicker

Picked up a few wood-body planes a while back and spent some time cleaning them up. The beech really shines when it is quarter sawn. These are Scioto Works planes with blades marked Ohio Tools. They are a #3 and #21.


----------



## bandit571

Goodell-Pratt #408..when it got home…









The Craftsman #13 bit was a lot newer, almost minty…









Ever see a gear shift like this..
The After?









The only markings are on the chuck..









Everything works like new, even the shifter..









Jaws still have the spring. $9…


----------



## BlasterStumps

I made some clip on soft jaws for the Simplex 400 Vise. Used some brass kick plate that I had. They will work for now. I'm still planning some jaw inserts out of hardwood and probably still will make some with leather faces.


----------



## paulm12

nicely done Blaster. what paint is that?


----------



## BlasterStumps

Thanks Paul.

It's Rust-Oleum Hammered Verde Green

Mike


----------



## Tim457

I just noticed the little hardy on that anvil. I don't suppose you'd hot cut much steel with it but seems useful.


----------



## BlasterStumps

Hi Tim. When I found the vise, the hardy cutter had gone missing. I searched through my hardware (junk) and came up with a shoulder style pin with what I thought was very close dimensions to what the original would have been. I cut and fashioned it to what you see in the pic. I'm thinking it was a grade 8 bolt. I haven't tried to harden it. Probably only will bend or cut soft metals with it if at all. I made it more for completing the look of the vise like it would have been when new.
Mike


> I just noticed the little hardy on that anvil. I don t suppose you d hot cut much steel with it but seems useful.
> 
> - Tim


----------



## bandit571

Like this one?


----------



## BlasterStumps

Oh wow Bandit. That one looks like it has very little use. Yes, even has the hardy cutter. If the vise I cleaned up had looked like that one, I wouldn't have had to do much but take the rust off. I don't know what the price is but that is a find! Thanks for sharing the picture.
Mike


----------



## bandit571

As far as I know..it is still in the store..about 3 blocks from my house….I Might walk down there and see, and look for a price tag…


----------



## putty

blaster, 
Could you modify a cold chisel to use as the hardy cutter?


----------



## BlasterStumps

You might could if you have more metal working abilities than I do. : ) The hardy hole in the anvil on this vise is something close to 21/64 round hole, not square. Most vise have the round hole I believe. A shoulder bolt that has the larger diameter of 3/4 to 1" and smaller diameter that is close to the 21/64 is going to be easier to fashion into a cutter. If I only had a metal lathe : )
Mike


> blaster,
> Could you modify a cold chisel to use as the hardy cutter?
> 
> - putty


----------



## GrantA

Here's a Stanley #7 I rescued, turns out it came from the estate of a man my grandpa worked for years ago so chances are it was used by him. He got a kick out of seeing it and hearing the story.


----------



## BlasterStumps

Grant that is a restoration to be proud of for sure. Nice work. Is it a sweetheart version?
Mike


----------



## DLK

Nice job.


----------



## GrantA

Thanks guys! Mike it actually is a sweetheart, type 13. One of my next cleanups will be a type 11 4c I've got here, it's not a sweetheart though.


----------



## warrenkicker

Cleaned up the Millers Falls 07B I got a couple of weeks ago. Didn't even have to sharpen it to get it to make some shavings.


----------



## donwilwol

nice !


----------



## warrenkicker

This was my primary restore this weekend since it was warm. I also cleaned up the motor that came with this planer. Both were full of mud dauber nests. Seems to work smoothly and quietly now. Just need to build the base so that I can get it all mounted and running. They call it the alien planer. It is Craftsman from the 40's or 50's based on the logo and the model number. Seems to have almost new blades. I replaced the bearings and bought a can of paint to make it pretty again. Seems it wasn't used much for quite a while and even the painted surfaces were rusting. Nothing a bit of sanding couldn't remove. The bed cleaned up pretty easily again with sandpaper. A coat of wax and it is like glass. I guess if you put a hand crank out the back you could call it a hand tool. 6" cutter with 2" thickness capacity.


----------



## Johnny7

Looks good!

Not to nitpick, but it's often called the "Alien *Head* planer" - for the resemblance of the housing to the creature's head from the 1979 film "Alien"


----------



## donwilwol

Great job


----------



## HokieKen

Excellent work on both of those Warren. That planer looks awesome! I've always loved the look of those planers. Just wish there was a little more capacity to 'em.


----------



## Straust

Just got finished restoring a Stanley Bailey No5 I am pretty sure it is a type 19. I might shine up the sides a bit more but, I sure had a blast bringing this plane back to life.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice save


----------



## pistonrod

Looks great!


----------



## CO_Goose

I just love to see those old planes come back to life!


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

This is a Vaughn & Bushnell 904 plane and I wanted to clean and tune it and see how it measures up.
















I couldn't bring myself to leave the original primer grey color so I changed it up, if it was in excellent original condition I would have left it.









A pic of the frog design compared to a bedrock I'm working on.









A pic of it shaving some curly cherry.









A pic of the side and the nice walnut handle. The 904 had a drop forged steel sole with a bedrock design frog, walnut tote & knob nickel plated sides and a vanadium steel blade, it was their top of their line planes.


----------



## donwilwol

Gold Plated. Cool!


----------



## BlasterStumps

The TurtleCarpenter, very nice work on the Vaughn and Bushnell 904. Looks like a sweet plane. That's one to be proud of for sure.
Mike


----------



## HokieKen

Nice work on those Straust and Turtle! Good looking users


----------



## TheTurtleCarpenter

Thanks, I was impressed with the 904, don't know much about the vanadium blade steel but you could always swap it for a PMV-11. It will make someone a nice user for sure.


----------



## corelz125

Very nice paint work on both of them turtle


----------



## DLK

Nothing special but I have not posted in awhile.

I've mostly been packing up my tools for the move downstate. Not wanting to pack up a dirty plane here is a quick restore I did.

*Before:* Bought this Sandusky Hollow at the habitat for humanity restore. I don't collect Sandusky, but for $15 or under I'll consider any molding plane. This one looked in good shape.










Never seen it done before but someone scribbled graphite over the end.










*After:* My procedure now is to rub them down with paste wax and steel wool. This seems to be enough tp get the grime and paint splatters off, but still leave patina. (I seemed to have cast a shadow in these photos. My apologies.)




























It seems to work.










*Afterthought:* I may later try and lighten it up a bit, if I decided it's a keeper.


----------



## terryR

A keeper if you'll use it.

Try turtle wax rubbing compound for cleaning,










seriously. Rub it on, rub it off. Rub a little to clean a little, rub longer for a deeper cleaning. Leaves a waxy finish that I remove and apply fine wax for a finish.


----------



## jtrz

So this is my first plane restoration and while I can't say it was a total success it was a good learning experience. A while back I stumbled upon a bunch of hand planes at my grandfathers and he hadn't used them in the last 40-50 years and gladly let me have them. One of them was this Stanley No. 5, I believe, type 9.










It was pretty grimy and rusted, luckily it had been sitting in the basement for 50 years but it had definitely been tossed around and had things stacked on it as it sat on the old workbench and since it was my great grandfathers as well I think it was used pretty heavily in its early years. The sole was nowhere near flat and the blade and chip iron were warped, rusted and chipped. I don't think this plane was really used for woodworking but more for handyman duties.

So here is what it looks like now…










I stripped the tote and knob and put on a few coats of beeswax. I could never get rid of the black marks on the side of the bed which doesn't really bother me but if someone knows how to get those out let me know. I tried everything it seems.





































Unfortunately here were my first results (and bear in mind that this probably the second time I have even used a bench plane and it was in the middle of the night, on my desk using clamped on wood scraps as stops)...










User error is the number one factor for the result but the chip breaker is in really bad shape. It is warped in a few directions, has some small chips on the edges and has lost a lot of it's spring so it really isn't getting clamped down well on the iron. The frog is tricky to get situated for me as well so it seemed like my iron was always a bit askew.

And the big bummer is that after I lapped the sole I noticed cracks at all for corners of the mouth.They have gotten worse as well so I doubt this plane as much life left as a user. I could go on and on…in fact, I will with a blog post or another thread where I can show more photos and hopefully get some feedback from everyone on what I did right and what I did wrong.

Thanks guys


----------



## donwilwol

that's an excellent job, first or not. Sharpening has a bit of a learning curve, so just stick with it. The 4 corner crak is kind of a killer, but a replacement sole shouldn't be that hard to come by.


----------



## TheFridge

Crack suck. evaporust, citric acid or another rust remover and a wire wheel or brush will get rid of the rust in the pit.

The chipbreaker sitting flat on the back of the iron is a huge deal. It'll clog the mouth if there are gaps.

Nice work.


----------



## bandit571

Chipbreaker:

Have a good metal vise? Use it to carefully rebend the spring part back into shape.

Not flat in the rest of it? Have a ball pean hammer? Lay the cb on the bench, bowed side up, hammer to gently flatten the bowed up ares.

Knife edge at the end where it contacts the iron's back. Polish the upper part of the hump so it is a smooth transition between the iron and the chipbreaker. Shavings can then travel smoothly up and out of the plane.

The four cracks can be silver brazed, ground smooth and work just fine. My Millers Falls #14 jack needed fixed around the opening…works great.


----------



## Tim457

I agree with fridge, rust remover and wire wheel on those spots should at least reduce the appearance of them by a lot. In the end the only way to completely get them out is to remove enough metal to get all the way to the bottom of the pits.

Fixing those cracks might be worth it given it's your great grandfathers plane, or you could just oil and wax it and keep it on a shelf to enjoy.

Oh and nice job on cleaning it up.


----------



## DLK

*Terry*. I gave it a try:










A little better, but not as clean as the ones you did. Perhaps I need to clean with a solvent first to remove the old finish or the wax I earlier rubbed in.

I liked the way the cabinet wax higlied the markings. I wonder if that can be made permanent.


----------



## jtrz

Thanks everyone. I think I'll do a little practicing with it while I am restoring some other planes and then put it on the shelf. I've got a Miller Falls #9 that is in progress and then either this old Diamond Edge jointer or a #6 stanley.

I'm not too worried about the pitting. I must have lapped that thing a month ago or more and I haven't seen a sign of rust on it. The chip breaker actually seems to be sitting nicely on the blade. The chip breaker and the iron got a few blows from a mallet. The blade turned out really nice but the rear of the chip breaker didn't do so well with it and it still is a bit warped.

My main problems have been getting the frog positioned well and getting the iron sitting nice and square (the cutting edge may not be square and possibly the chip breaker). The part of the Y lever that engages the iron doesn't do so very well because it doesn't protrude quite enough. I may have accidently lapped some of it off when I was flattening the frog. And the lateral adjustment lever is super hard to move. Not from rust but maybe because it isn't pinned in to the frog right or maybe is bent a bit. Everytime I try to straighten the blade with it it seems to throw things out of wack a bit.

I'll keep playing with it and we will see what happens.


----------



## FoundSheep

Jtrz, excellent job with the restore. Personally as far as you got with the sides, those few remaining black marks shows it is an old tool, and it has been used through many years. It's all personal preference though.


----------



## terryR

Don, I used a worn out maroon sanding pad to clean the wood. Was 320 grit when new, but very worn for this application. And I scrubbed a while.

Gotta admit, the Atkin & Sons planes I have were in fantastic shape under a little grime.


----------



## TheFridge

They look good Terry.

Personally, I wire wheel plane soles and leave it at that nowadays. Dipping the soles and everything that goes with it is a pain for me and even if there isn't any pitting it takes some work to bring it back to like new condition.


----------



## DLK

*Terry* I have some nice Auburn's that cleaned up just fine with ordinary paste wax. And I have some to do that are so bad I may just keep the iron and make new bodies. (They were made of birch and not beech and they were chewed up by mice and soaked in urine.) Packed up now so, maybe this summer I can post my efforts.
I'll try the maroon too, I think I have one.


----------



## summerfi

DonK - before giving up on the plane bodies, try some oxalic acid. It really does wonders. It won't help the mouse chewings though.
https://www.amazon.com/Oxalic-99-6-Eco-Friendly-Packaging-available/dp/B01MRBH913/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1521477698&sr=8-10&keywords=oxalic+acid


----------



## BillWhite

Plane polish:
1 part Murphy oil soap
1 part BLO
2 parts paste wax
Stir well, apply, wipe, buff.
Saw this on a vid, and can't remember who posted the formula (dang it), but it works well and is inexpensive.
Bill


----------



## DLK

*Bob* will that oxalic acid take the urine smell out of the old tool chest they were in?


----------



## DLK

oxalic acid has been ordered.


----------



## summerfi

I don't know, Don. I've never used it on urine.


----------



## TheFridge

> The chip breaker actually seems to be sitting nicely on the blade. The chip breaker and the iron got a few blows from a mallet. The blade turned out really nice but the rear of the chip breaker didn t do so well with it and it still is a bit warped.
> 
> - jtrz


I got much better end results when I made sure I couldn't see light between the chipbreaker and iron when tightened. Also, the face of the chipbreaker where the chip or shaving hits needs to be consistent and smooth as well. I saw on a video about chipbreaker setup that an 80deg face can prevent tearout just as much as a tight mouth so I live by it nowadays.

Edit: also look into cambering the iron if you haven't yet. An iron sharpened straight across will give you fits at the corners.

Don, if acid won't kill the smell I don't know what will.


----------



## Johnny7

*Don K*

Once it gets nicer (and sunnier) up in the U.P. do the following.

Open that tool chest, bring it outdoors, and move it throughout the day to expose it to sunlight.

Also, *Borax* (sold as 20 Mule Team in laundry aisle) works great on a problem such as yours.


----------



## DLK

*Johnny7* What is this thing called sunnier. Ha. Problem is I am packing up to move and it would be nice to fill the old tool chest for the move. Sunnier means I think July.


----------



## Johnny7

Then use the 2nd method I recommended-google Borax and urine for details


----------



## DLK

> Then use the 2nd method I recommended-google Borax and urine for details
> 
> - Johnny7


Will do.


----------



## KentInOttawa

> Plane polish:
> 1 part Murphy oil soap
> 1 part BLO
> 2 parts paste wax
> Stir well, apply, wipe, buff.
> Saw this on a vid, and can t remember who posted the formula (dang it), but it works well and is inexpensive.
> Bill
> 
> - Bill White


I also use this Mendota Plane Polish.

View on YouTube


----------



## BillWhite

Thanks Kent. That's the fellow I was watching.
Bill


----------



## DLK

Video won't play for me it just says its unavailable.


----------



## bandit571

Spent $5 for these two chisels…









Not the prettiest ones..









A 3/4" and a 1" ...firmer chisels? One seems to have been made with that bend at the socket..

Cleaned both up..dug up a couple handles until I can get the "correct" ones..









1"wide one is from UNION Hardware Company, Torrington, CONN, USA

I found a name stamp on the 3/4" one, as well….T.H. Witherby. Same company these?









Have started sharpening both of these….Backs are now flat. Seems to be decent steel…


----------



## BlasterStumps

Nice work Bandit. The 1" incannel made would seem to me to be a bit of an odd one but would probably be handy for working bigger stuff. The 3/4 could easily be bent to make an incannel out of it as well. I was working on three outcannel gouges a couple days past. I'll have to show a pic. I had lots of fun just trying to sharpen them : )
There is an 1/8" with the gouges that looks like it could be a mortise chisel, but don't know.
Now I need to find out some of the uses for the incannel chisels. 
mike


----------



## nicedrum

Nice work on the Boker, and I like the idea of replacing the handle! I have an old razor with cracking handle that I should do something similar to. My great grand-uncle used to make straight razors in Sweden. For me, one of the best parts is not having the razor get clogged up by the little bits of cut hair, like the disposable ones do.


----------



## bondogaposis

Stanley #4.


----------



## theoldfart

Nice Bondo.


----------



## Tim457

Wow, nice save Bondo.


----------



## BlasterStumps

Very nice job on the No 4 Bondo. One to be proud of.

I've been staring at a war era 5 1/4 for about a week. I have the furniture done but I need to do a complete refurb on the rest of the plane. Just haven't had the steam up to get started on it.

Mike


----------



## bandit571

In the midst of cleaning up the Dungeon Shop, and burning scraps and shavings….had two items that sneaked into the firepit. One USED to be a Veritas MK1 honing guide….only the metal parts remained. th other?









Was one of my three spokeshaves….a Seymour Smith & Son one…..gave it a good soaking in WD40, then cleaned it up. Sharpened the iron, and flattened the sole. Parts were down to bare metal…didn't have any black paint…use a bit of Cold Gun Blue paste, instead…results?









Looks a bit better, now?









Seems to work almost like new, again…Logo is even readable!









I think that will do…


----------



## FoundSheep

Is it allowed posting to the "Restoration, before and after" thread, if you caused the before?

Good save regardless, especially with the blue paste.


----------



## ToddJB

It's not woodworking equipment but here is a sneaky peaky of my current restoration.


----------



## Tim457

Man that's nice. That bold blue is really starting to grow on me. I think it would be more fun to use than drab grey.


----------



## HokieKen

That's looking damn good Toddles!


----------



## DLK

I am trying to restore a MF 77 eggbeater. Who ever had it befor wrecked the springs. 
Where can I buy 1/8 O.D. 1/2 inch long compression springs?


----------



## HokieKen

> I am trying to restore a MF 77 eggbeater. Who ever had it befor wrecked the springs.
> Where can I buy 1/8 O.D. 1/2 inch long compression springs?
> 
> - Combo Prof


Here's one that size on McMaster-Carr. Force will vary with spring rate and wire size of course. The one linked is stainless 302. I'm sure they have that size in music wire if that's preferred.


----------



## DLK

I ordered the stainless one. Actually I was just trying to check the shipping but it never told me, nor did I get a second chance to confirm the order. Very disturbing. I will cancel if its ridiculous. Would music wire be better?


----------



## ToddJB

You won't find out what the shipping is until it shows up at your house. That's how McMaster roles. Old School.


----------



## HokieKen

On the sunny side, they charge actual shipping and are good about shipping economically. I would have gone with the stainless as well. No real advantage to music wire in this application.


----------



## ToddJB

Finished this guy up a few weeks back. Forgot to post. It's already a shop life saver.

This bad Johnny went through the black forest fire a handful of years back.



















Some awesome person used the slide as an anvil










Kenny, these screws are what almost broke your screwdriver.


----------



## DanKrager

Combo, the hardware stores around here have a spring section where you can, by visiting all the stores, usually get any spring I've tried to find. BORGS i frequent have a smaller collection. Wouldn't a ball point pen spring work? I save just about every one…

Killer vise restore! Wow.

DanK


----------



## Handtooler

Super save! You've don yourself proud. That'll be a very useful aid to your shop.


----------



## DLK

*Todd* it turns out if you contact them, then McMaster will estimate the shipping. They say my springs will be about $7.00 shipping. Nice save on the vice.

*HokieKen*, I found some one who has done it and said Music wire, so I have changed my order.

*Dan Krager*, I checked the ACE hardware store earlier and the smallest spring they have has O.D. 5/32 which is 1/32 too large. I did not check Lowes or Menards. I also checked MCS online and got the same result. I had forgotten about McMaster.


----------



## GrantA

Alright I'm just going to have to look ignorant here, Todd what's that sexy blue machine?? A lathe? Makes me want to paint my South Bend 13" a more exciting color!!


----------



## ToddJB

Grant, lathe indeed. Getting close but still miles to go.


----------



## putty

Don, Harbor freight has assortment boxes of springs,
you may want to check them out….

edit: Just looked online 200 pcs for $4.99

smallest compression is 7/32 … so it will not work.


----------



## donwilwol

Don k I had the same reaction the first time I order from McMaster. They have never disappointed.

Todd, a super job on that vise.


----------



## DLK

Thanks Putty and Don W.


----------



## HokieKen

That's a pretty Prentiss Todd! Nice work brother.


----------



## carguy460

Hey guys, been awhile since I been around…I just picked up a vise and was looking for any history on the manufacturer, dating info, and/or restoration tips…

Thread here: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/280977


----------



## rk5n

More of a refurbish than a restore, but here is the #4 I picked up at a flea market for $4. It's a type 7. Unfortunately the iron was very short and pitted so I replaced it with a spare Milllers Falls


----------



## adot45

Looks great, nice job.


----------



## bandit571

A before ( more of a clean up)









$5 yard sale find..looked like a Disston D-8…until it was rehabbed..









Cleaned up well….note the handle?









According to the readable etch…this is a D-100. 10ppi, 26" long, skew back. Seems to be about ..1917 or so?









Has the French and Spanish "Trademark" markings below the Keystone, with 1840 in a box above it.
Goes nicely, with my D-112…


----------



## DLK

Can anyone find or sell me two depth stop shouldered thumb screws for rabbet planes (like Stanley 78) *for cheap*? ebay has them for $20 to $25 each which is too much.

I am trying to complete a a craftsman and an Ohio for possible resale.


----------



## bandit571

Borrow two off of a Stanley mitre box, I think they are the same bolts….then you can buy new bolts for the mitre box


----------



## DLK

^ What?


----------



## warrenkicker

Not so much a full restoration as opposed to a full disassembly and thorough cleaning. It is a Wilton and was missing the screw handle and the bench dog. Not to bad for the price I thought. It doesn't have the quick release screw.


----------



## gottobtrue

This was my first complete restoration. I should have started with a smaller plane. I should have also started with a newer plane. It's a type 8 I believe (except the iron, etc.) I'm afraid I hurt its collectible value, but I'm not sure since the pitting is quite deep. I have a few other turn of the century & pre-war planes that I would like to clean up but need to educate myself on what is truly collectible or not. Any suggestions on who would be willing to help me out with some Q&A would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to ruin one of these by messing with it.


----------



## donwilwol

I don't think you hurt the value. Nice job. You're welcome to ask and we'll help. I also have a forum for Timetestedtools for the same reason.


----------



## jtrz

I've been meaning to post this for a while but haven't had the chance.

A Stanley No. 6, Type 13 I think, that I rescued from grandpa's basement workbench. One of my first restorations and I wasn't sure it was going to be able to get back into action.








































































This came out way better than I expected and works perfectly. It can handle big shavings and I can get super thing ones as well. The blade and sole were the main concern but the blade is pristine now and besides some pitting, the sole cleaned up well. I definitely put a lot of time into it but mainly because I was pretty green to the restoration process. This was a great tool to learn how to restore on.

It still needs a replacement frog adjustment screw but this is one hell of a plane now.


----------



## rtbrmb

Here are some before and after pictures of a Stanley 5 1/2 (type 9) that i picked up off e-bay a few years back & just got the time to restore it. I am very happy with how it turned out and based on some shavings from oak and maple yesterday - it will get a good amount of use in my shop for years to come.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job rt


----------



## waho6o9

Nice restore jtrz!


----------



## DLK

Question. I picked up a MF no 5 hand drill to restore, but can't unscrew the end cap to get out the drill bits. It is as if it was glued shut, but of course it wasn't. What are the methods I should try to get it open? Heat, soak in alcohol or water?


----------



## donwilwol

Soak it in penetrating oil and or heat


----------



## DLK

Will penetrating oil work on wood threads?


----------



## adot45

jtrz and rtbrmb, You have both done great jobs refreshing your planes, very nice to see.


----------



## donwilwol

> Will penetrating oil work on wood threads?
> 
> - Combo Prof


Well, I misunderstood which end you were talking about,


----------



## HokieKen

I had a handle similarly stubborn Don. I wrapped the removable part in electrical tape (5-6 wraps) and clamped the metal part (very loosely) in a vise. Then used a small pipe wrench to loosen it. It only took enough force to get the initial movement then it came off easily by hand. Just make sure the tape keeps the wrench teeth from marring the wood beneath. If it takes more than light pressure, I'd probably stop and explore other options.


----------



## DanKrager

When wood threads get stuck, the ends of the cut fibers catch on each other almost like a ratchet. I've been successful using mineral oil to soak the threaded area very well with a little bit of heat to assist penetration. This softens the fiber tips just enough to allow them to bend over and pass each other. Sometimes it's the resins sticking together and the little bit of heat softens them enough to break the bond. The first micromovements will feel like sticky syrup, so slow and steady pressure will eventually win. Patience.

DanK


----------



## DLK

I soaked in in MS, which did not seem to work. So I decided to remove the pins that attache the head (the handle) to the frame. Somehow tapping on the pins loosened the cap and hooray in sided was a complete set of fluted drill points. So I guess Mineral spirits and tapping with a hammer gets it done.

This was my "parts MF 5" that I was using to fix up a better MF 5. But now I may have to restore both.


----------



## adot45

Here is my first "saw job", a Disston 23.
I used WD-40 and 400 grit emery paper.
Was reluctant to do much around the etch area.
I liked doing it enough to look for more and learn the history of the saws.



















The etching is present although faint.


----------



## NuritheTurk

I don't know if this has been covered before but here goes:

I have an old Beardshaw backsaw that the handle screws just spun. I took a 6 inch wooden hand screw clamp, put a rubber pad on one jaw and then drilled a 3/4 inch hole in the other jaw. Put the rubber pad on the medallion and clamp down lining it up over the head and screw and insert screwdriver and twist. Works for me.


----------



## DLK

What is a good choice of wood to purchase to match and replace a missing horn of a broken rosewood tote?
Where can it be purchased?


----------



## bandit571

Have you tried Walnut?


----------



## TheFridge

I cut up old totes and knobs for filler.


----------



## DLK

I have walnut, maybe I'll try that. I don't think I have any old rosewood knobs or totes, but maybe. I was just checking to see what is the preferred substitutes for rosewood. (If I buy some substitute I will likely have to buy a quantity large enough to make it worth while, so I just want to be sure.)


----------



## TheFridge

How big of a piece? I have scraps. I think I'm getting down to the nitty gritty of them but I may have something?


----------



## DLK

> How big of a piece? I have scraps. I think I'm getting down to the nitty gritty of them but I may have something?
> 
> - TheFridge


Hard to say because tote shapes varied a bit between different types but comparing with another No. 7 I have I think the smallest rectangular prism that could contain the missing part would be 1 by 1.25 by 1.5 with the grain running with the direction of the long dimension. So just enough to make the top horn. Here is a photo of the culprit.


----------



## donwilwol

> What is a good choice of wood to purchase to match and replace a missing horn of a broken rosewood tote?
> Where can it be purchased?
> 
> - Combo Prof


I bought some east Indian rosewood from rarewoodsusa.


----------



## JADobson

Hey all - cleaned up a type 19 #7. Bought the plane for $25. Wasn't a lot of life left in the blade and the cap iron was corroded pretty badly. Replaced it with a Veritas PMV-11 blade. Quick question for you all. To get the blade to cut I have to back off the depth adjuster almost all the way. Is there any way to get the adjuster to sit somewhat deeper on the rod?


----------



## BlasterStumps

On one of my planes, not me but someone before me cut another hole in the chip breaker for that purpose. I don't recommend that. Not sure what to advise.


----------



## bandit571

Get a replacement chipbreaker made for that plane….one that matches the OEM one.


----------



## TheFridge

I'll check er out


----------



## JADobson

> Get a replacement chipbreaker made for that plane….one that matches the OEM one.
> 
> - bandit571


Turns out that is exactly what a replacement blade from Veritas is.


----------



## ColonelTravis

James, nice restore. I have a very similar situation with my #8. Had to get a new blade (got a Hock). I also got a new chipbreaker because I am not a fan of the old Stanley style ones. As a result, not only does the adjuster knob have to be WAY out like, yours, I have very little room to play with between the mouth opening and the blade.

The only issue I have is when I take the blade/chipbreaker out to clean out the shavings and dust, or to sharpen, when I put it back, for some reason the blade ends up sticking out far too much and I have to finagle it back with the lateral adjuster and readjust the brass wheel. I don't even think it takes 30 seconds to get it back in order. It's kind of annoying but not annoying enough for me to attempt any modifications.

Is this causing problems with you using it?


----------



## JADobson

Thanks Travis. That sounds exactly like my issue. Plane is working perfectly right now. Just worried it might cause problems down the road as the blade gets shorter.


----------



## DLK

> What is a good choice of wood to purchase to match and replace a missing horn of a broken rosewood tote?
> Where can it be purchased?
> 
> - Combo Prof
> 
> I bought some east Indian rosewood from rarewoodsusa.
> 
> - Don W


rarewoodsusa didn't seem to have to be out of it, but I found and ordered some from bellforest.


----------



## JayT

> Thanks Travis. That sounds exactly like my issue. Plane is working perfectly right now. Just worried it might cause problems down the road as the blade gets shorter.
> 
> - JADobson


If it's working fine, there's nothing to worry about. Since the depth adjustment slot is on the chipbreaker, not the iron itself, as long as you keep that a consistent distance from the front of the iron, your depth knob will always be in the same place for a cut.


----------



## JADobson

> Thanks Travis. That sounds exactly like my issue. Plane is working perfectly right now. Just worried it might cause problems down the road as the blade gets shorter.
> 
> - JADobson
> 
> If it s working fine, there s nothing to worry about. Since the depth adjustment slot is on the chipbreaker, not the iron itself, as long as you keep that a consistent distance from the front of the iron, your depth knob will always be in the same place for a cut.
> 
> - JayT


Haha, well that is completely obvious now that someone has pointed it out. Thanks.


----------



## HokieKen

If you just need a little bit more out of the depth adjuster JA, you can also grind a little off the forked parts. Assuming the plane isn't of any collector value of course…


----------



## JADobson

Got an email back from LV's customer service today. Their reply:

We are sorry to hear of this situation, but it does crop up once in a blue moon. As indicated in our product write-up, the plane blades are 0.100" thick, 25% thicker than the industry standard of 0.080". The increased thickness reduces chatter, but depending on your plane you may indeed need to file the mouth to open it a bit wider. It is a hit or a miss from one plane to the next as there was not a consistent width for the mouth when they were manufactured. We suggest using a 'fine' file to open the mouth slightly as it will give you the extra room needed.

As it is working now I think I'll just live with it.


----------



## warrenkicker

Did some cleaning up on a Stratton Brothers mahagony level. There was I bit of insect damage on one side but not too bad. The bubbles are intact and can be adjusted. There is a wire for the main bubble that can be moved left or right along the vial to indicate where the middle of the bubble should be located. For the plumb vial there is a wire beside the vial with a small indicator on the wire that can again be moved to where the center of the bubble should be.


----------



## 5am

And restored (but not quite refined)










A Goldenberg 650 grams head weight hatchet, with a handcarved ash replacement handle, apple wedge up top sticks out, so can be either tapped in deeper or removed easily. No metal wedges. Total weight now just over 850 grams. It's used for carving green wood.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice piece Sam


----------



## hkmiller




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## HokieKen

Great save HK!


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## hkmiller

> Great save HK!
> 
> - HokieKen


Ken. Thanks! Your team killed my noles. We have away to go with our new coach.


----------



## BillWhite

warrenkicker, any info on the brace 3rd from the top in your pic? I just picked one up this past weekend, and can't find anything on it but a very indistinct date and some numbers that are almost hidden.
Mine looks as if it has a rosewood pad and grip.
Any insight would be appreciated.
Thanks.


----------



## bandit571

3 Rusty & Krusty items from the Tractor Fest..









$10 scraper…









$3 backsaw 









$1 drill…









After a good cleaning…jaws even have their spring…discovered I already have a Stanley No. 945-8









Next..









Warranted Superior medallion, with a Keystone….Haven't got a tooth count, yet.









Steel bolts. Plate is straight…seems to be sharp…
next..









Stanley No. 82…..type 1?









Patent date is 1-29-07…...









Wood handles could use a touch of refinish?
Not too bad of a day?


----------



## corelz125

thats a nice scraper bandit


----------



## HokieKen

> Great save HK!
> 
> - HokieKen
> 
> Ken. Thanks! Your team killed my noles. We have away to go with our new coach.
> 
> - hkmiller


Honestly, Monday night was a pleasant surprise here in Hokie-land. We didn't necessarily expect to loose but we expected to fight for it a bit harder. Gotta beware the unexpectedly good season openers though…


----------



## bandit571

> warrenkicker, any info on the brace 3rd from the top in your pic? I just picked one up this past weekend, and can t find anything on it but a very indistinct date and some numbers that are almost hidden.
> Mine looks as if it has a rosewood pad and grip.
> Any insight would be appreciated.
> Thanks.
> 
> - Bill White


Millers falls No. 1050….to No. 1054. I have the 1054..6" sweep.


----------



## 5am

Thank you, Don.


----------



## BillWhite

Thanks Bandit.
Mine just has a Pat. Date 1-11-18/9
No(.)C102
Maybe mine's not a MF. Who knows…..…………


----------



## warrenkicker

Mine says PS&W No 1102. It is rosewood and has individual locking dogs for the ratcheting mechanism.


----------



## BillWhite

Same mechanism, wood, etc.
Maybe I'm reading the faint stampings wrong.
Must be the same creature.
My thanks for your input.


----------



## DLK

Not much required for restoration. I was in walnut city Iowa, a small town with 13+ antique malls. I did not find many tools. But while I was looking at something else when the owner started tried to get me interested in this plane.










Note it says "rare, $54". I said well its not all that rare just some sort of European plane. He asked how much I would pay for it I said $25 to $30 hoping he would back away. But he says O.k. So I said I will have to look at the iron.










But there was no iron just an odd chip breaker turned upside down with screw in the wrong side and a bit sharpened.

So he says $10 and I reluctantly bought it. Brought it home cleaned up the end of the wedge, rounded it over and soaked it with BLO+MS and gave it a coat of Alfie shine. I did not do anything else to plan body. Then I went to work on the breaker with a mill file until it would seat and hold securely a No.3 size blade (Miller falls) that I had. It makes shavings now.


----------



## HokieKen

Man, this thread needs a bump! Here's my recently done Stanley 45.

Before:









After:



























And, here's the blog series if you're interested in more details and/or pictures


----------



## Brit

Very nice Kenny.


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent job.


----------



## Beats85

Been lurking for a while and thought I'd finally throw one of my restores into the mix. I really appreciate all of the information I've learned from this site!

This is a Sargent 410c - type 4 as best as I can date it. It was the first Sargent plane I stumbled on in my rust hunts, and at the time I knew nothing about Sargent planes but knew that the equivalent 4 1/2 size was not something I would see all that often and picked it up for $30.

What was most surprising to me was that the handles were made of a nice ribonny mahogany - they really turned out beautifully after being sanded down and shellacked.





































I was on a bit of a rust hunting kick over the holidays and also restored a type 10 #3, type 11 #4, type 13 #4, a millers falls no. 2 hand drill, and a no-name 10" brace. The drill and brace belonged to my great grandfather - I've had and used them for the last year or so but finally got around to cleaning them up. I am less interested in the collectibility of the tools I find so don't worry about how things like repainting, etc. will affect the value. All of these tools I'm finding I intend to keep!


----------



## HokieKen

Very nice work on all of those Beats. They all look great. I really like the Millers Falls eggbeaters. They're fun restorations when you can find them at a decent price


----------



## BlasterStumps

Yes Beats, nice job on all those tools. Keepers for sure.


----------



## corelz125

Nice work beats. The Sargent is a nice plane isn't it


----------



## donwilwol

Everything looks great but the vbm is a little extra sweet


----------



## Beats85

Thanks, all! I agree, the Sargent in particular cleaned up well and is a joy to use!


----------



## MPython

When I was a kid, my father had a WWII Navy surplus Walker Turner 900 15" drill press. I loved it. It was solid as a rock and ran like a sewing machine. Unfortunately, his shop was burglarized and the DP was stolen. When I started putting together my own shop years later, I looked for another Walker Turner DP. This was before eBay and Craigslist. My hunt proved unfruitful for years. Finally, after the advent of eBay, I spotted one. It was for sale by the Property Disposal Officer at the Savannah River Plant in Aiken SC, about 50 miles from me. I paid $150.00 for it, sight unseen, and drove to Savannah River to pick it up.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with The Savannah River Plant, it was created by President Truman in 1951 to be the the enriched uranium production facility for our nuclear weapons program. It was the first such facility in the US, and probably the first int the world at the time. DuPont was the original contractor that ran SRP and ran it until the late 1980s when Westinghouse took it over.

In any event, back to my story. When I arrived at the SRP Property Disposal Office and presented my credentials, the person behind the desk disappeared into the bowels of the warehouse and returned pushing a cart with three cardboard boxes on it. My heart fell to the floor. In the boxes were the dismembered remains of a Walker Turner model 1200 drill press. It was a total shambles. There were mud dauber wasp nests all in the housing and cowls. The table was utterly destroyed with large chunks knocked out of it and drilled through many, many times in the "arc of shame". The column was rusted and pitted and there were places where the pitting went all the way through the 1/4" steel. You could see daylight through the holes. I didn't think to take photos at the time, but here is a photo of the table and the column I took later:










I drove home and put the boxes in my shop where they remained for a couple of months.I couldn't bring myself to throw the junk in the trash, so they just sat there. Meanwhile, I started doing a little research and found a guy in Connecticut who specialized in reconditioned Walker Turner machines. I contacted him and asked if he had parts. He did and he took an interest in my boxes of junk. Together, over a period of several months, we rebuilt the drill press. He had bearings and the equipment to replace them (the Walker Turner Bearings aren't standard and require a special tool and set-up to remove them). He did a great job and replaced the old bearings with new, sealed and permanently lubricated ones that fit the machine. When we got it to the point of hooking up the motor, I wired it up and switched it on to see if it ran. It did, but it slung dirt and debris all over my shop. It was clotted with mud dauber's nests. Here's a photo:










I sent it to my guy in Connecticut who cleaned it up, rewound the windings, painted it and replaced the capacitor.










Looks and runs good as new.

We replaced the column and the table. I cleaned up and repaired the quill and all the rest of the rusted and bent parts, painted them in the original color and reassembled the drill press. Here it is today:










While I was trying to decide whether to bite off the rehabilitation project, I did a little research. From the serial number I found that the machine had been built in early 1951, the year Truman commissioned the Savannah River Plant. I'm pretty positive that this drill press was one of the first pieces of equipment that went into SRP when it opened. It is a piece of history. This, combined with my wish to replicate my father's drill press from my childhood, steeled my resolve to carry through with the restoration. I ended up spending a lot more money and time on it than I intended, but I ended up with a great drill press.The old saying, "They don't make 'em like that anymore" applies in spades to this piece of old iron. It is rock solid and it runs like a sewing machine.

Thanks for looking.


----------



## HokieKen

Fantastic MPython! Thanks for sharing. I love old drill presses. Mine's an old Boice Crane from the 40's I rehabbed. It's amazing how much better the old ones are than the new when you start digging into them. A little rust removal and some new bearings can almost always put them back to purring like a kitten. I wasn't aware of the issues with bearing replacement on the WTs either. Good information to file away!


----------



## MPython

Thanks Kenny! It was a fun project and I'm proud of the result. I'm always surprised at how often I use the drill press in my woodworking shop. I consider it an essential piece of equipment.


----------



## corelz125

Mpython great story now that thing will last for a long time. Probably longer than some of the brand new ones out now.


----------



## donwilwol

I love the old WT stuff. I have a bandsaw and lathe. I haven't found a drill press yet. I almost hope i don't find one. I don't have room for another, but i know I will buy it anyhow. Very nice restore.

Can you send me the contact info for the guy in CT? I may send him my Bandsaw motor rather than tackle it myself.


----------



## MPython

> I love the old WT stuff. I have a bandsaw and lathe. I haven t found a drill press yet. I almost hope i don t find one. I don t have room for another, but i know I will buy it anyhow. Very nice restore.
> 
> Can you send me the contact info for the guy in CT? I may send him my Bandsaw motor rather than tackle it myself.
> 
> - Don W


Don, the guy's name is Jeff Hoffman. His company was (is?) Walker Turner Serviced Machinery, LLC and his email address was [email protected] I don't remember the name of the town he's located in, but I may be able to find it. All of this may be of no avail. I tried several times to contact him last Fall and I was unsuccessful. I got no response to my emails and had no luck contacting him otherwise. It looks to me that he's out of business.


----------



## tshiker

Great drill press! You were probably the only one between that dp and a dumpster. Chances are no one else would have had enough of an emotional connection to dump that much time and money into it. Nice restore, better story! Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Not a restoration, more like a demonstration, of something we talked about on this thread not too long ago.

http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/129342



> Great drill press! You were probably the only one between that dp and a dumpster. Chances are no one else would have had enough of an emotional connection to dump that much time and money into it. Nice restore, better story! Thanks for sharing.
> 
> - tshiker


What he said!!


----------



## Timbo

Adding a Craftsman table saw 12" Craftsman band saw to the shop. Did a complete disassemble, clean and paint along with new upper and lower wheel bearings.










The Re-assembly was done with my 5 yr old Grandson, it was the most enjoyable part for both of us.


----------



## HokieKen

Beautiful work Tim!


----------



## ToddJB

Awesome job, Tim!

If your not going to use that light, let me know.


----------



## Brit

That's amazing Tim. You guys are so good at this restoration stuff.


----------



## CFrye

Reassembling it with the grandson=great memories & family heirloom. Beautiful resto, Tim!!


----------



## Timbo

Thanks!
Candy, It is quite amazing what a 5 yr old can do when you let them try. And yes it will hopefully be a treasure for him when old enough, I plan to pass it on to him.

Toddjb, Not sure about the light, I will check this weekend and message you.


----------



## wormil

Those old Craftsman machines have a lot of style, nice work Tim.


----------



## CaptainKlutz

Finished functional restoration on Powermatic model 15 planer today. Bought from a closed commercial mfg plant auction. 
Before:








..

Unit was covered in soap and well water minerals scum from over zealous floor cleaning staff. They managed to create rust on outside of lower cabinet, one end of table, and destroyed the galvinized in/out rollers. There was no oil spot under the unit in shop, but the gearbox only had 3oz of oil when I got it home and it holds about 15 ounces? 
The users of this planer were just as brutal to it running hemlock/Douglas Fir. The pitch covered and rusted blades had ragged edges:









The feed roller bushings were so worn out, they damaged the out feed roller shaft, and it was rubbing on gear box when I brought it home and test it.










Replaced motor bearings (squealed like scared pig), cutter head bearings, feed roller bushings, output roller, oil seals, bent speed selector shaft, and cleaned up all the rust that impacted functional stuff. The unit had been rebuilt once before, as I found US made SKF bearirngs in gearbox (not original NTN Taiwan made usually found). Evaporust wiped out most of rust issues. Conveyor rollers were heavily pitted, and looked horrible. Was cheaper to cover them with heat shrink vinyl than to replace them. Have just over $200 in parts on restoration. More than I expected due output roller, but tolerable cost considering what I paid. I can sell it and have no issue with break even.

And this is the after picture:
















.
Lumber feeds as it should. Had to lower the rollers to zero in the table as smooth wood was tough to start, and had some exit snipe. A 12" wide hunk of lumber had 0.0015" difference side to side, and 0.001" deep snipe on entrance edge. Conveyor and feed roller adjustments are total PIA, and after a couple hours I gave up with this minimal snipe result.

Have never seen one of these 15" planers that didn't leak a little oil, even with all new seals. Most of time it is cutter head oil seal weeping during use. This one has a once day drip coming from the speed selector shaft. :-( Cracked the case open twice trying to stop this leak, replacing the oil ring attempting to stop it. Must have some wear in the gearbox cover.

There is some cancer hiding under the paint in lower cabinet, but its generally light. Maybe someday will grind off rust below famous Powermatic stripes and on the covers, then prime/paint to finish the restoration?

All I know is it works. Going to put it to use for awhile, and come back later if it needs more tuning/cleaning.

PS - This is 3rd 15" planer I have rescued from near death and rebuilt in last 15 years. Took just over a month for this one due delays in parts deliveries, and finding more parts needed during reassembly. This is my 1st Powermatic. If you are not aware, Powermatic 15, Jet 15", Grizzly g1021, and even Taiwan made Delta 15"; are same basic machine from same mfg. Have some old parts from previous builds and they all are exactly same. Bought a combination of Grizzly/Powermatic parts for this build.  One thing have to be careful about: g0453 and couple of Delta models were made with slightly different gearbox by a different mfg (China mfg maybe?). They use a reverse helix on the cutter pinion .vs. the ones listed above, and gear box seals are different.

Thanks for reading.


----------



## ksSlim

Nice save!!!


----------



## wormil

Quite the transformation


----------



## Jeanallen

This is insane.



> Nice one, Dan. You really exceeded on that iron!
> 
> In the spirit of transitional smoothers, here s my Stanley 35 restore:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Brandon


----------



## warrenkicker

Not much movement on this thread recently so I thought I would post my most recent rebuild. I have had a small bench vise for years and it leant work they well so when I saw a bigger vise for sale on an auction site I took a chance. None of the handles were there so I knew I had some things I would need to replicate.

There were a couple of colors of paint visible in the pictures but when I got it there were three paint jobs over the original but the original was a gray hammered finish which made this a relatively recent Chinese product.

Cleaned up ok and a new coat of hammered paint and it looks like this now. Less that $30 in it.


----------



## MPython

Nice save! That old boy is good for another lifetime or two.


----------



## bigblockyeti

That's a great save, almost looks like it spent some time near saltwater, perhaps on a boat or dock.


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## woodcox

> That s a great save, almost looks like it spent some time near saltwater, perhaps on a boat or dock.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


Or from the bumper of a pipe truck. I wonder what happens to most of those we see.

Nice save, WK. Where did you find the T-bar replacement?


----------



## warrenkicker

It is an adjustment bar out of another tool that screwed into a deep tapped collar. Cut the collar in half and had two ends. Then cut the long 1/2" rod down, cut threads on the end and screwed it all together.

Was thinking of getting a long bolt and nut and putting them in my lathe. Using an angle grinder I could have "turned" down the hex shapes into round ones. Then I found this other option. I don't know if it will be stiff enough to not bend but then again I'm not on the farm anymore.


----------



## woodcox

Ha. I know what you mean. It looked good, better now that I see you made it to fit. It's home I'm sure.


----------



## HokieKen

Here's a quickie I did for a fellow LJ. He's fairly new to our "sport" and just got his first plane, a #3. I offered to sharpen and fettle it for him but when it got here it was in such good shape other than a little rust that I couldn't help but clean it up ;-)

Before:









After a little rust removal and fettling:









She takes a nice thin shaving. Should prove to be a dang fine user.


----------



## woodcox

That's a good plane. Nice work, Kenny! The first ones always free.


----------



## Oldschoolguy

WOW!!!!!, Hokie. In another life I would love to have just a touch of skills, ingenuity and knowledge that LJ ers possess. I wish to take the time to thank you, Ken, for doing this for me "Oldschhoolguy". I'm very humbled and forever grateful to him. He has helped me in ways that I'm sure he does not realize and says a lot about his character. As I've stated before, I have an extreme learning and comprehension disability. I can read all the links, ideas and suggestions that LJ's send to me, however, I have a hard time understanding all that stuff and putting it into practice. I guess I'm just a wannabe woodworker. So, with great regret and embarrassment I have to ask others to do things for me that I cannot do for myself. I hear all the time from people "why can't you just learn it"......that is why. Anyways, thanks to the community for all your help, support and understanding as I am forever grateful. Ken, you are a one of a kind individual, and a credit to family, friends and humanity. Thanks again to a "great" friend for your help.


----------



## Brit

Well done Kenny. Always nice to help someone else out.


----------



## HokieKen

Glad to help when I can OSGuy!


----------



## CaptainKlutz

Spent ~90 minutes restoring cast iron Unisaw top.
Before pic, just as I started scraping the rust:








.
After scraping:








Pile of iron oxide anyone?








After power sanding with 80 grit and WD40 for awhile:








.
Top is not completely finished, my OCD is telling me to remove more of the black stains left behind and then work up to 220 grit for little shine. 
Thread is little to quiet; decided to show an minor before and after restoration to keep folks awake.

Cheers!


----------



## wormil

Major improvement. Save that iron oxide to use as a decorative wood filler.


----------



## Quaternion

Crappy pictures of two befores and an after. Somehow stole these on Ebay for $15 after shipping, quite happy with them.


----------



## theoldfart

Nice save on the decal. Great looking squares.


----------



## Red5hft

Here is a little Lakeside 227 plane I refurbished. I believe this one is from about 1916-1917 as it appears to have an East Indian rosewood knob along with the horizontal depth screw adjustment of that period. Fun project, and a great performer after restoration. Has found a new home in Hawaii.


----------



## corelz125

Nice work getting all of the paint splatter off.


----------



## WayneC

> Not much movement on this thread recently so I thought I would post my most recent rebuild. I have had a small bench vise for years and it leant work they well so when I saw a bigger vise for sale on an auction site I took a chance. None of the handles were there so I knew I had some things I would need to replicate.
> 
> There were a couple of colors of paint visible in the pictures but when I got it there were three paint jobs over the original but the original was a gray hammered finish which made this a relatively recent Chinese product.
> 
> Cleaned up ok and a new coat of hammered paint and it looks like this now. Less that $30 in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - warrenkicker


Looks like a copy of a Record Engineers vice.

I have a number of similar vices.


----------



## 33706

May I suggest a video created by a traditional machinist, who attended a convention/ swap meet of historic tools. I've never seen so many antique vises in my life!


----------



## RickKr

This may not be within the envelope of what the OP had in mind, but a few years ago, I restored a 1941 Rivett 1020 metal lathe. It took two years. A lot of internal parts had to be machined from scratch. Some repairs were made, such as a hole in the lower headstock housing that had been wallered out and no longer held the shaft well enough for the handle to operated. Two parts that could not be machined, I made patterns and had metal castings made, which were then machined. A single tooth dog clutch between helical bevel gears, that changes the carriage feed direction while the spindle is turning, had to be rebuilt, by welding metal back on the teeth and then milling the teeth square and flat in an arc (done on a rotary table).



















Rick


----------



## HokieKen

That's gorgeous Rick! I've never heard of Rivett but that's a lovely machine. Unusual for a small, short bed lathe of that era to have separate lead screws for the power feed and threading. What is the small rod at the bottom? Excellent work.


----------



## ToddJB

Awesome job, Rick!

Kenny, you should look into Rivett. Their 1020s was considered the finest toolroom lathe ever made.


----------



## HokieKen

Way ahead of you Todd. I did a quick dive on that puppy. Impressive machine!


----------



## ToddJB

Rick, I'm very envious of that machine. You did a stunning job. Do you know a major difference(s) between your model and post-war models?


----------



## RickKr

> That s gorgeous Rick! I ve never heard of Rivett but that s a lovely machine. Unusual for a small, short bed lathe of that era to have separate lead screws for the power feed and threading. What is the small rod at the bottom? Excellent work.
> 
> - HokieKen


Rivett made very high quality lathes since the late 1800s. Mostly they were smaller than the 1020. 
Lathes UK Site with tons of info on all sorts of machine tools.

They started making the 1020 as competition for the Monarch 10EE 1020, which was larger, much heavier and more simple. Rivett's entry in 1941 was short lived, ceasing production in 1942 with shifts in production due to WWII. It was mostly hand fitted and extremely complex. Rivett changed the design to be much more similar to the Monarch 10EE when they resumed production after the war.

There were only about 20 of the pre-WWII Rivett 1020s made and we only know of 4 that still exist and they are all in the Pacific Northwest. Mine is Serial Number 107, which we think was the first one delivered, on a contract with the Navy. As far as we know, all were made for the Navy.

That little rod at the bottom is the push-rod for the leadscrew reverse mechanism. By throwing the lever in the upper right corner of the lower headstock box, that single dog clutch between the helical bevel gears would shift the direction of the carriage travel without stopping the spindle. For one, this allows single point threading without disengaging the half-nuts. Greatly speeds up the threading and ensures you never cross-thread because you never take it out of registration. 









Below are the steps to repair the single tooth dogs:

They had been rounded over through mis-use.









We welded metal back on the corners of the teeth.









Milled the teeth straight, square and arched.









Rick


----------



## RickKr

> Rick, I m very envious of that machine. You did a stunning job. Do you know a major difference(s) between your model and post-war models?
> 
> - ToddJB


About 2,500 lbs !

The pre-WWII 1020s, like mine, where about 1,500 lbs. While listed as a 10" swing x 20" between centers, they really can only has a working length of about 17". These were "bench top" type lathes, although they came with an integral sheet metal cabinet. They were so complex and hand-fitted that it is hard to imagine how they could be competitive with it.

Post-WWII 1020s were much more massive, with an entire base, bed and headstock of cast iron, weighing about 4,000 lbs. The swing was increased to 12.5", matching the Monarch 10EEs and can work a true 20" between centers. Design was greatly simplified and standardized so that parts were more interchangeable. Rivett's 1020 wash much shorter lived than the 10EE. Rivett was bought out in 1960s or so and ALL of the parts and documentation were thrown in landfills, so not spare parts were available any longer. The post-WWII Rivetts were far more rigid and accurate, although the pre-WWII versions were no slouches in this department.

In the summer of 2016, I was moving and my Rivett 1020 got dumped on its face. Very little damage to the lathe itself, with the cabinet doors and drawers, which flew out, took the brunt of the damage. That cabinet has been repaired, but there is one lever on the lathe that isn't working quite right. 









In the meantime, I bought a 1946 Monarch 10EE 1020, with two-axis DRO, which is the only lathe I now have in my new shop. I've been working with friends back in Portland on the very slow progress of repairing the Rivett. I'm not sure yet what I'll do with the Rivett once it is fixed. I don't have room for two lathes that are highly duplicative. I've been filling what space I have in my 2-car garage with woodworking tools, so I don't even want another metal lathe. But… the Monarch holds the place of honor on one wall, along with my vertical knee mill. 









Rick


----------



## HokieKen

I would do bad things for that Monarch Rick. Please don't ever post your address so I won't be tempted… ;-) That's one of the best machines ever made IMO. If you ever want to swap it for a 1936 South Bend 9C, give me a shout )


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## ToddJB

Nice setup, Rick. I'm also a mixed shop of wood and metalworking equipment. The metal tools arent' that big of an impact on the wood machines, but dang the dust from the wood machines make those metal ones gross. I have having to cover and uncover equipment.


----------



## HokieKen

Ditto Todd. My sister is supposed to be making me a fitted cover to fit over the lathe. Especially now that the belt grinder is complete and functional. That sucker leaves a film on everything. Think I'm gonna have to invest in an air cleaner in addition to my DC.


----------



## RickKr

> I would do bad things for that Monarch Rick. Please don t ever post your address so I won t be tempted… ;-) That s one of the best machines ever made IMO. If you ever want to swap it for a 1936 South Bend 9C, give me a shout )
> 
> - HokieKen


Ha! Warning noted!

I have a couple of bamboo fly rod maker friends who have drooled over the green Rivett for years, nicknaming it "Kermit". They threatened to send Guido buy to fetch it, but he never found me. But, Guido is a double-agent. I just paid him more.

There is hope for you, however. I started in 2000 with an "unmentionable" Asian import minilathe. Next was a Craftsman 10×36, then a clapped out South Bend 9A, replaced by a very nice 1957 SB 9A. That latter 9A, with a ton of accessories, is what I traded, in part, along with my labor in restoring Kermit. My friend, who I traded the 9A to, sold that 9A for $4500, giving one measure of the Rivett's value. 









Several of the very nice chucks that I had on the 9A remained and became part of the Rivett tooling. Those chucks followed on to the Monarch, although it came with a nice set of chucks and a 5C collet chuck. The Rivett took 5C collets directly in the spindle taper and I installed a Royal lever action collet closer. I love working with collets.

Rick


----------



## RickKr

> Nice setup, Rick. I m also a mixed shop of wood and metalworking equipment. The metal tools arent that big of an impact on the wood machines, but dang the dust from the wood machines make those metal ones gross. I have having to cover and uncover equipment.
> 
> - ToddJB


That is very true. I worry about the wood dust on the metal working machines, mostly due to the oil on the ways, etc. I have not yet gone so far as to cover them, but should. They are too valuable not to.

I did install an air cleaner in my garage, but I either don't run it enough, or, likely true regardless is that dust still gets on everything, and into the house and there is only the one man-door between the garage and house.

Rick


----------



## RickKr

> Ditto Todd. My sister is supposed to be making me a fitted cover to fit over the lathe. Especially now that the belt grinder is complete and functional. That sucker leaves a film on everything. Think I m gonna have to invest in an air cleaner in addition to my DC.
> 
> - HokieKen


I have a small, 1" belt sander as part of my metal working stuff, but don't use it all that much. I am planning on getting a Viel variable speed belt grinder for use in my sharpening activities, but it will replace the smaller one and it will be used for both metal and wood working activities. I'll have to locate it away from the other machine tools, though as it will throw off some very gritty dust.

Rick


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Awesome job Rick. It's a beauty and you should be proud of it. The history was awesome to learn as well. I have a little 11" Logan and probably won't replace it because that would mean I have to move it again. 

Covers for the metal mill and lathe are crucial in a wood shop imo. Pain in the ass sure but so is tearing down and cleaning oily wood dust sludge from everything.


----------



## RickKr

> ...snip… ;-) That s one of the best machines ever made IMO. ...snip… )
> 
> - HokieKen


Yes, I agree. I've long heard from fellow hobby machinists that the Monarch 10EE and the Hardinge HLV are the two ultimate metal lathes for a home shop. The post-WWII Rivett 1020 is in that class also, but it is so less well known as the 10EE. I will add the pre-WWII Rivet 1020 to that list, but it is so rare as to be essentially irrelevant. I am extremely fortunate.

Rick


----------



## bandit571

Had an Uncle, based out of the Sidney, OH monarch plant…..that was a "Trouble-shooter". His job was to travel around, and fix anything that would go wrong on any of the Monarch lathes made….yet had a basement woodshop filled with Rockwell power tools…


----------



## HokieKen

I worked as a machinist for many years. We had a 10EE in our tool room. Eventually the tool room was no longer economical for a production shop so the lathe was moved to the maintenance shop where I had free access to it. Several months ago, I went to use that lathe and there was a new Jet lathe sitting in it's place! Upon inquiry, it was donated to a trade school because Maintenance felt it was time to have a more modern lathe in their shop :-( Not gonna lie, I cried a little bit.


----------



## 33706

Makes me wonder: *How was the first lathe made?*


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Just so happens Keith from Vintage Machinery just snagged a Rivett 1020s and posted a video a few days ago. You might enjoy this Rick.

YouTube


----------



## HokieKen

> Makes me wonder: *How was the first lathe made?*
> 
> - poopiekat


Chicken or egg? ;-)


----------



## RickKr

> Makes me wonder: *How was the first lathe made?*
> 
> - poopiekat


I've heard it said "a lathe is the only machine tool that can make itself". Does that make it the chicken or the egg?

On a more serious note, probably by progressive steps of making itself.

Rick


----------



## Delete

For those interested Henry Maudslay invented the modern screw cutting lathe. Lathe turning has been around since prehistoric times in one form or another, it could be as simple as work centered between two trees and turned with a length of fiber rope. More advanced methods of driving the work were developed through the ages, such as spring poles and treadles, but the modern screw cutting lathe was not invented until 1797 by Henry Maudslay.


----------



## Delete

So 2 1/2 years ago I got a Delta DC-380 15" planer from a school auction. I got it for $380, It looked good from the outside but the school had already replaced it with a 20" King planer, so I suspected their were going to be internal problems nobody was telling anyone about.

What it looked like when I picked it up.










After getting it home, 180 miles in a snow storm, cleaned up and ready to disassemble.










All disassembled ready to start the rebuilding and repair of the many problems I found.










All finished ready to test out.










I took a 2 X 8 (1.5×7 1/4 actual) and planed it down to a 1" x 7 1/4" (actual)




























So 0.001 difference across a 7 1/4" width and a very smooth flat surface with no snipe, I'll take that.
If you want to see the whole rebuild here is the link.

https://hobbyworkshopprojects.blogspot.com/p/15-delta-p.html


----------



## wormil

Nice work on the planer.


----------



## Delete

Thanks Rick M


----------



## woodcox

Here is what looks like a shop made steel trammel set. 


















A nice brass fillet has been set all around the top edges. 









I hadn't noticed but one is a wee bit shorter than the other.










Another new favorite. 

















Tillotson Sheffield square. Very well made rosewood with brass from before the 1860's. 








I really like this piece. Like a flying squirrel or bat?









The mark above is crown-X-heart with the crown and heart turned on their sides.


----------



## BlasterStumps

Very nice job on the DC 380 planer Carlos. Probably better than new now. Good work.
Mike


----------



## Delete

Thanks Blaster, first job after I finished it was the workbench build also documented on the blog. I glued up the 28" X 78" top in 2 halves and planed then both to match up on the Delta, before gluing them up. It has run without problems since.


----------



## wormil

Handsome square, I dig that crown logo.


----------



## DLK

I do like those trammels.


----------



## bandit571

$1 axe..meet a new $9.88 handle.









Old handle had seen better days…









had more cracks than a city sidewalk…head needed cleaned up, too

About an hour or so in the Rehab Shop…









Steel has a rub down of oil, to keep the rust bunnies away….edge needs honed..









handle has been hung, excess wood trimmed off…
Might be a 3-1/2 pound Collins splitting axe?


----------



## Brit

Nicely done Bandit. I've got a new axe handle too that I need to fit to an old Elwell No.6 axe head.


----------



## donwilwol

A little before and after.










After


----------



## HokieKen

Beauty Don. What's that grabby-thingy in the middle of the before pic?


----------



## bigblockyeti

Kinda looks like an ole' fashioned bench mounted speculum.


----------



## donwilwol

> Beauty Don. What s that grabby-thingy in the middle of the before pic?
> 
> - HokieKen


It's a vintage nut cracker. It's made by Sargent.


----------



## ToddJB

So Yeti was right


----------



## HokieKen

Finally had a few hours this weekend to rehab a couple of planes that I've had for a while.

Millers Falls 18



























Millers Falls 07


----------



## donwilwol

Excellent additions


----------



## putty

That Miller Falls 07 is a little beauty!!!


----------



## sansoo22

Didn't get many before pics but here is a couple of the grossness covering the iron. This same grossness covered the plane body as well. This is an Craftsman 3704 which was made by Sargent and is pretty much a Sargent 306.

















And here it is all cleaned and polished. This is my first restore of a plane in this condition and im quite pleased with it. Is it collector quality…no…it says Craftsman on it. But its an excellent user that I prefer over my Stanley 9-1/2.


----------



## HokieKen

My 9-1/2 is one of my favorite blocks Sansoo. So if it's better than that, I'll have to keep my eyes open for one  I'm curious about the eccentric adjuster for the mouth on that one?



> That Miller Falls 07 is a little beauty!!!
> 
> - putty


Yes she is Putty ) I spent well over a year trying to buy one of those at a reasonable price. I still think it was unreasonable but, I got it for the cheapest I've seen one go for on Ebay so I just closed my eyes and swallowed my medicine. So far it seems on par with my 140 - no better/no worse. But my 140 is missing the side plate so it does have that advantage.


----------



## sansoo22

Ken - It's possible I just have a crappy 9-1/2. It's a very dark blue color so def not an earlier model and I haven't spent as much time tuning it as this one. The mouth adjuster feels smoother than the Stanley design. Its easier to do fine adjustments in my opinion. Tolerances of the whole design including toe and casting just seem tighter making it smoother overall.

I would rank my current block planes i reach for as 60-1/2 first, Craftsman above second, and ol' blue 9-1/2 has been relegated to tackling knots or in other words the beater block plane in the shop.


----------



## HokieKen

> ...
> 
> I would rank my current block planes i reach for as 60-1/2 first, Craftsman above second, and ol blue 9-1/2 has been relegated to tackling knots or in other words the beater block plane in the shop.
> 
> - sansoo22


I grab the 9-1/2 for most anything that's clear, straight grain. The 65-1/2 gets the nod for end grain and the 140 (or now the MF 07 above) gets grabbed for anything funky or knotty or cross-grain work. The skewed blade makes a huge difference. I could probably get by with just a skewed block plane for everything. But where's the fun in that?


----------



## BlasterStumps

Kenny, nice job on the MF 07. Nice to see it is in good shape. I've seen a few of them that had been overtightened on the lever cap which caused them to break right at the bend. Anyway, that one is a purdy one and looks very good. Congrats.


----------



## BlasterStumps

Sansoo22, I just had to say, wow, what a great job cleaning that block up. I have done a few and I know what it takes. You done good on that one.


----------



## HokieKen

The only issue I had with the 07 was that the first couple of threads on the lever cap wheel were boogered up really badly. I ran a die over it though and all is well. I will say that the sole isn't very flat but I think that's pretty common with these "rabbet" block planes. I think it's fine but can always flatten it in the future if necessary.


----------



## sansoo22

Kenny - I will have to tune up the 9-1/2 and see how it does now. That giant surface plate i just picked up needs to earn its keep anyway. I grab the 60-1/2 cuz Im pretty noobish to planes and the low angle is pretty forgiving across most grains. So unless i set it way to deep and left the mouth wide open i cant really mess to much up with it.

Blaster - Thanks for the compliment. I find restoring these just as therapeutic as using them. The only thing i don't like so much is re-grinding a good bevel on a really old iron. I'm getting better at it but it still makes me nervous.


----------



## bandit571

Ok..the "before" shots…









12" wood level….steel hardware, slotted screws…vials are intact and work great….plumb has a metal cover tube…









maybe a Stanley during the war…when Brass was hard to come by?

And, the "After" 









Not too bad, for $2?
Still need to rehab a gauge…









beam is stuck, right now…when the weather (ever) dries out, maybe it will loosen up…one side of the beam has a ruled marking….will try to keep that…


----------



## sansoo22

Here was a sad Type 16 No 5 that was being used to scrape glue that wasn't even dry yet. What I originally thought was white paint all over the mouth and chip breaker turned out to be wood glue. Not sure which is harder to remove.

And tada…here it is with all its original finishes still in tact. 








I did have to spray a couple light coats of semi gloss varnish on the handles to preserve them. Cleaning and light 800 grit sanding took quite a bit of it off. I prefer to preserve the finish whenever I can. I feel all the little nicks and dings tell the history of the tool.

Some close ups


















And here we are at work. Quite proud of my shavings on this one. That is the thinnest full length shaving I have ever pulled. That came off some douglas fur which i usually hate planing because its a jerk.


----------



## AEVilleneuve

I've really enjoyed going down the restoration rabbit hole.
Here are a few of the one's I've restored.


































And my next projects


----------



## sansoo22

Is that second one a number 4? I really like the look of the light and dark handles on it. I have a number 5 i will be starting soon that has a beach tote and rosewood knob. Nice to have an idea what they will look like once im done with it.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job. Welcome to the rabbit hole.


----------



## AEVilleneuve

Yes it is! not sure what maker though.

and thanks Don.



> Is that second one a number 4? I really like the look of the light and dark handles on it. I have a number 5 i will be starting soon that has a beach tote and rosewood knob. Nice to have an idea what they will look like once im done with it.
> 
> - sansoo22


----------



## sansoo22

Picked up a little Craftsman 9-1/2 made by Stanley. Its a later model plane so not that special but turned into a pretty solid user once all cleaned up.

Before









After


















The hardest part was squaring up the iron that seemed to be off by about 15 degrees. It looked like it came that way because I couldn't find any signs of sharpening at all. I don't have a lot of experience with late models but from what I've read its not surprising.

Got a handful more to do still so back down the rabbit hole i go for now.


----------



## bandit571

$2 yard sale find from last week…









Let it soak in PBblaster for a day…then cleaned things up…









Jaws have teeth! And, an intact spring!









They even hold a round shank drill bit quite well…









Selector uses 2 pins…









Rusty oil still running out. Got the selector to move like it should…got everything else moving like new…
Wood handles were a stained hardwood…


----------



## bandit571

$2 yard sale find from last week…









Let it soak in PBblaster for a day…then cleaned things up…









Jaws have teeth! And, an intact spring!









They even hold a round shank drill bit quite well…









Selector uses 2 pins…









Rusty oil still running out. Got the selector to move like it should…got everything else moving like new…
Wood handles were a stained hardwood…


----------



## bandit571

$2 yard sale find from last week…









Let it soak in PBblaster for a day…then cleaned things up…









Jaws have teeth! And, an intact spring!









They even hold a round shank drill bit quite well…









Selector uses 2 pins…









Rusty oil still running out. Got the selector to move like it should…got everything else moving like new…
Wood handles were a stained hardwood…


----------



## bandit571

$2 yard sale find from last week…









Let it soak in PBblaster for a day…then cleaned things up…









Jaws have teeth! And, an intact spring!









They even hold a round shank drill bit quite well…









Selector uses 2 pins…









Rusty oil still running out. Got the selector to move like it should…got everything else moving like new…
Wood handles were a stained hardwood…


----------



## bandit571

Before….soaking in PBBlaster…and









After a good clean up…


----------



## bandit571

Before….soaking in PBBlaster…and









After a good clean up…


----------



## bandit571

to..
.


----------



## bandit571

to..
.


----------



## bandit571

to..
.


----------



## bandit571

That "520" error….caused all these "extra" posts….and now I can't delete the extra ones….gotta be a Monday…


----------



## sansoo22

> That "520" error….caused all these "extra" posts….and now I can t delete the extra ones….gotta be a Monday…
> 
> - bandit571


I thought you were just trying to reinforce how awesome your $2 find was


----------



## bandit571

Testing….see IF things are getting fixed….still loading slow…
from this broken handle that came with a large backsaw…Disston No.4, 5" x 28" made for Goodell Pratt Co.









Missing the lower part….glue a new one on..









Then take the Dremel and some sanding drums….blend things together,,,strip the rest of the old finish, install on the saw plate, with the cleaned hardware….









Then add a coat of stain…and let it dry…









may add a coat of varnish, after a while. (still fighting those 520 Errors)


----------



## AEVilleneuve

Purchased this oddity at a garage sale lately for cheap. It had a roughly worn maroon body and sparsely yellow painted frog. The last user of the plane also decided to epoxy the tote down to the body.The man selling it wasn't its original user, and only categorized it as "terrible restoration job". Hence why it was cheap.

I took on the challenge of restoring it to a usable state, which I'm almost done, but have only now stumbled upon the fact the original colours aren't a botched job, it's a Stanley Two tone plane! Stanley OH-5.

I'm torn of if I should remove my paint job and try to match it's original colours or just leave it black and move on.


----------



## donwilwol

I don't think it matters much. Two-tones are neither scarce or valuable. In this condition it's only value is a fun project to get it to a decent user. Have your way with it.


----------



## HokieKen

Personally, I find the two-tone planes kind of hideous. I would be inclined to stick with black.


----------



## donwilwol

Yes, the chip breakers and caps are usually over the top.


----------



## sansoo22

At first I thought you had a later model cordovan plane and I think those are just the right amount of 70s ugly on them. But then i image searched the two tones and have to agree with Ken. The yellow frog and cap are hideous.


----------



## Red5hft

I'm with HokieKen. Black!


----------



## 33706

I like the Two-Tones, especially if the cutter iron is stamped with the cursive "Two Tone" logo. I remember these on the shelf at our local hardware store as a kid. I even like the moon yellow color, and I prefer the cordovan/yellow over the line of blue/yellow ones. Gotta be a yellow chipbreaker, too. Is there a type study on these? *DonW*?


----------



## 33706

> Before….soaking in PBBlaster…and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a good clean up…
> 
> - bandit571
> 
> *Bandit:* I've sorted all my bit braces, and every one I had where the upper end of the shaft was not perfectly aligned with the shaft below the crank now sits in my resale bin for a later date. I'd consider a 'Whimble' brace but these with an out of whack misalignment are wobbly and hard to get a perfect hole with. IMO. Dunno why they were bent this way.


----------



## donwilwol

> Is there a type study on these? *DonW*?
> 
> - poopiekat


I've not seen one.


----------



## AEVilleneuve

All finished, I stuck with the black look. I couldn't bring myself to paint it strange colours, especially since I will most likely not keep this one for myself. Stamp on the blade leads me to believe this is the 1940-41 version of the plane.


----------



## KentInOttawa

> All finished, I stuck with the black look. I couldn t bring myself to paint it strange colours, especially since I will most likely not keep this one for myself. Stamp on the blade leads me to believe this is the 1940-41 version of the plane.
> 
> - AEVilleneuve


Nicely done. Starting at Post #2410 on the Hand Planes of Your Dreams thread there's some discussion with lots of links to plane dating (type study) pages.


----------



## AEVilleneuve

> Nicely done. Starting at Post #2410 on the Hand Planes of Your Dreams thread there s some discussion with lots of links to plane dating (type study) pages.
> 
> - Kent


Thank you, believe or not I've gone through that whole thread already. There are some incredible resources out there for dating planes. The colours on this one is what really helped me narrow it down. Also the stamp on the blade, "Stanley Two Tone made in USA", should have been the obvious clue haha.


----------



## CO_Goose

PoopieKat had started a short-lived thread on the Stanley Two-Tone planes a while back:
https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/76849



> Nicely done. Starting at Post #2410 on the Hand Planes of Your Dreams thread there s some discussion with lots of links to plane dating (type study) pages.
> 
> - Kent
> 
> Thank you, believe or not I ve gone through that whole thread already. There are some incredible resources out there for dating planes. The colours on this one is what really helped me narrow it down. Also the stamp on the blade, "Stanley Two Tone made in USA", should have been the obvious clue haha.
> 
> - AEVilleneuve


----------



## houblon

Here are two recent flea market finds:
First is a Disston no9 with an interesting paint job.




































Then there is this Stanley Liberty Bell 135:





































It seems to be a mix of type 2 and type 3. However, the iron has both the '76 and the '92 patent date.


----------



## P89DC

Sargent 711 has been in my family for decades. It sat on the furnace boiler vent for a decade or more before I moved it to the workbench in the 70's. I recovered it from the basement as I got into woodworking in the 80's but never used it. It just sat alone in poor condition but complete as it came from the factory other than the patina:



















Into a tub of wood bleach (oxalic acid), the hot sun helps speed the reaction:


















All cleaned up but not over restored, it's what I was going for:


----------



## OleGrump

Eric, Great job! I like the cleaned up, but not all out restoration look on this piece. It's nice when a tool just needs a little care to get her back in shape again. So many that come to us need some pretty "intensive care" to get them back in service again. Glad to see this wonderful old family plane spruced up and ready for work.


----------



## corelz125

Nice job on that auto set. I'm all for just a clean up when that's possible.


----------



## designwizard

Not a tool, but a toolbox. Built by my father's great uncle when he was in high school, in the early 1900's. Stayed in the family, was used and abused. I refurbished it some 20 years ago, one winter in Chicago. I don't have complete before pics, but in process and complete. The frame and drawer sides are mahogany, drawer bottoms are birch plywood, drawer fronts are maple. Most of the hardware is original.


----------



## HokieKen

That's a lovely box designwizard!

Now to change gears (or slide sheaves as the case may be ) how about a power tool? I bought this PM90 lathe a few months ago. It had never been ran since the seller took possession of it when it was left in a barn when he bought his house. Shortly thereafter, said barn collapsed in a storm and this old gal had sat outside since which was about a year. Lots of rust removal on this one from virtually every nook and cranny. Fortunately, the stuff in the headstock and the motor compartment were in good shape. I didn't have to replace any bearings or components. Just lots of rust removal by scraping or phosphoric acid. Then I painted all of the heavily rusted areas with a rattle can that I found that was pretty near a dead match and oversprayed the rest to blend the finishes. She purrs like a kitten and is solid as a rock now  The Reeves drive required a good deal of rust removal and clean-up and lubrication but it works extremely smoothly now.

So, here she is, my 1984 Powermatic 90.

*Before*


















*Some in process*



























*And After:*


----------



## DanKrager

Ken, I would have cried if I stumbled across something like this sitting outside. Maybe even reached out to throttle someone for doing it! Very nice recovery. May it give you many years of good service.

DanK


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Very well done Kenny. As I'm in the process of finishing up my monster German lathe I'm still jealous of your find on the PM. That is a life long lathe for sure. Enjoy!!!


----------



## HokieKen

I know what you mean Dan. But in this case I got a great deal on it and the only added expenses were some spray paint and rust converter so I'm kinda glad this one was left outside to drive the selling price down


----------



## HokieKen

Thanks Dave. Now hurry up finish yours and post some pics for us


----------



## KelleyCrafts

I'm close. It's all relatively pretty now and up and running. Just need to turn some chuck adapters on the metal lathe and build a cabinet for my lathe tools and "stuff". Then it'll be good to go. It can spindle turn now but I haven't yet. I use chucks for almost everything so that's the main goal for me before I can call it done.


----------



## Mosquito

Nice work Kenny. I didn't (haven't) gone through the hassle of breaking it down to paint mine, but I did just finish installing the new headstock bearings in it last night. Headstock bearings are expensive… But it now makes way less noise than it used to, and operates as if it were brand new now


----------



## HokieKen

Thanks Mos  I had fully intended to replace the headstock bearings but when I got around to working on the headstock, I couldn't see any reason too. I didn't originally plan to paint either but there was just so much rust that it was pretty much a necessity.


----------



## Mosquito

I hear ya, I generally try not to re-paint things, unless they really need it


----------



## Red5hft

A little Stanley Bailey No. 3 Type 19 I picked up a few months ago when visiting family in NC. The usual long lost rust collector waiting to be rescued. The nickel plated lever cap was in good shape, so just some polishing for it. Removed old lacquer from tote and knob. Two beautiful pieces, so 4 coats of Danish oil and 3 coats of paste wax, finished off with generous amounts of elbow grease for a rich, warm sheen. Lots of cutting iron remaining after a new bevel and flattening on 8000 grit waterstone. Gave some walnut a clean, close shave. Wonderful.

This long forgotten tool will be taking up residence in Hawaii with an appreciative new owner. Many, many useful years ahead.


----------



## corelz125

That's some polish on that I can see my reflection from here. Looks better than the day it come out of the box.


----------



## Red5hft

Thanks. I know this level of restoration and polish is not what everyone sees when looking at an old hand plane, and I certainly respect those who prefer the patina. It just happens to be what I enjoy and the way I was taught to treat machinery by my father. "Keep it looking new and it will last a lifetime," was what I was taught.


----------



## bandit571

Not the best "Before" picture..









Mitre box had 2 decks, even…









So, this is what I started with…









Stanley No. 346…and…the "After"?









Left side…stock rests are original..









Right side..that metal disc?









Is used as a length stop. Saw has a readable etch, and is a 4" x 26" Disston & Sons









Price for this little miter saw? $15….for the box and saw total….


----------



## 33706

Gotta love them patent dates, Bandit!


----------



## TedT2

I was given this plane by a very good friend. I am not completely done with it but don't know when I will have time to do anything more with it…I know it is a later model plane but was still surprised to see all the machining marks including on the iron. It has never been sharpened. It is a Record by the way.


----------



## bandit571

A "Before" 









a "During" 









And an "After"...








Defiance by Stanley is stamped on the tote…whatever Stanley called a No. 3 sized plane….


----------



## CaptainKlutz

Recent 1968 vintage Unisaw restoration completed:

BEFORE Images:
Rust:








Ugly Green/Yellow








Motor was filled with dust:

















Lower cabinet and plinth was rusted from decades of impacted wet sawdust contact:









In progress, sub assembly AFTER images:









Did ton of welding and sheet metal work to fill holes from (2) magnet starter mounts, move the dust collection to opposite side under the motor, and smooth out dents. Didn't need body filler. Only used spot putty to fill welding pin holes. and small imperfections that would not hammer out.
Here is cabinet with fresh paint applied:









Two tone paint on internal castings, 
plus new disappearing splitter:









Basic Restoration complete:









After the addition of a used Biesemeyer industrial fence, and extension table; 
Used it in shop for couple months, looking like this picture: 









.
.
Then realized I didn't have room for 2 Unisaw back to back in my 2 car garage shop, regardless of how convenient it was to have two saw setups at same time, and sold it. :-(

Thanks for reading this sad story of my dreams destroyed by a shop smaller than tools I like to use.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Looking good klutz!! I have a restored 1968 Unisaw as well. Nice little machine.


----------



## OleGrump

Holy Shop Class, Batman! What a GREAT job on the Uni saw. Bout made me cry ta hear you had to sell it. That's a REAL bummer…...


----------



## CaptainKlutz

Thanks for comments folks



> Bout made me cry ta hear you had to sell it. That s a REAL bummer…...
> - OleGrump


*OleGrump* Don't cry. I still have a purdy Unisaw setup in my shop.
-


FWIW - Left something out of story about lack of space, that might make you feel better?

Couple months ago noticed a 1954 Rockwell Unisaw on CL advertised as DEWALT Table Saw for $250. To be honest, not many would recognized it was a Unisaw from the terrible single picture. Even though I was already tripping over 2 purdy Unisaw in my shop; when the poor mislabeled TS hadn't sold after 10 days, I couldn't tolerate staring at CL posting any longer. 
Yes, I made an offer and brought it home. 
It's stashed in dark corner of garage storage space right now. Couldn't take a chance that SWMBO would notice I had 3 Unisaw in shop? Now down to only two.
Since this is thread is for showing before/after restoration and it's not restored yet; is it ok to post only a before picture now? Oh well. Shoot me…








.
It runs, cuts, and doesn't make any noises. Like most old abandoned Unisaw; it is missing some parts and has replacement power switch. Only a little ugly, and it needs all new bearings before it can return to any serious shop work. 
Full restoration on the 1HP 110V Unisaw for resale is break even deal due limited HP, plus fleabay used parts are priced as if stuff is gold plated; so ALL of us will have to wait and see if & how this one gets restored.

Hmm, maybe a 3 Unisaw restoration story doesn't make you feel better? 
Sorry, Not sorry. 

Cheers!


----------



## bigblockyeti

Can you fix it up and just keep it for yourself? I had three at one point in time and was planning on keeping two back to back for different operations but moving forced me to keep only one. Luckily my old one (1939) had pretty much everything intact including the lower dust door, it was only missing the goose egg cover which was an option at the time.


----------



## JethroBodean

> Price for this little miter saw? $15….for the box and saw total….
> 
> - bandit571


Bandit
Simply put "one hell of a deal" and nice job. But I think you may have posted to the wrong group! ;-) And I'm glad to see you understand the purpose of "the washer in the deck"!

Jeff


----------



## Mosquito

Acquired a Delta Overarm Router a few weeks ago, and got it completely torn down, cleaned up, re-lubricated, rust preventative-ed, and new bearings all around.

This is how it arrived to me, disassembled for transport:



















It was actually in fairly decent shape when it go to me, though the internal mechanisms for the table raise/lower mechanism was pretty rusted up, everything was moving fine. Regardless, a complete teardown was in order.



















Also, 3 of the 4 bearings were pretty crunchy… Leading me to believe that someone was in this machine at some point, and replaced a bearing. 2 of 4 were pretty bad, 1 of 4 was not good, and one was fine. Also, one of the 4 (the one that was fine) was the only NTN bearing, and the only bearing with a seal instead of being sheilded like all the other bearings. 3 New Departure, 1 NTN.










And then got it all cleaned up and put back together. Might have a video of the process sometime, if/when I get to editing it lol


----------



## HokieKen

That's awesome Mos! Great work on the overhaul. I bet that will be a handy bugger in the shop too


----------



## Mosquito

Thanks Kenny, I've enjoyed having the other one in the shop for the last 3 years, so looking forward to the conveniences this one offers (namely the crank height/depth adjustment instead of twin locking screw mechanism).

If I edit/post the restoration video, I might make a video comparing the two.


----------



## bandit571

Yard sale find..









Got it 1/2 price because..









Cleaned the iron a bit…









Plane was dirty…not much rust..









Cleaned this Stanley No. 3, Type 11 up..









Even found a lever cap in the "spares box"...









Sharpened the iron, tried it on some Ash….not bad, for $5 ?


----------



## adot45

Sweet looking little 3…great job.


----------



## adot45

Before a clean up, not a restoration, although I think I will do a little more, it's a nice solid little plane. Smarten up the wood, etc.


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Well, I forgot about posting this and I told Kenny I would. Here's a big old lathe. Not American iron but old iron none the less. It's a German Kreher lathe from 1961. Its 42" between centers and has a 26" swing. It's a beast.

I bought it pretty cheap at auction and fixed it up a bit and added a cabinet. Should last my lifetime. I did have to turn some spindle adapters in my metal lathe to fit the wonky spindle size and threads on this thing.

Here's what it looked like when I got the thing.










Here's what it looks like now.










Cabinet is a little over 60" wide so it has plenty of storage.










Tool storage I used webbed cable pass through to keep some of the dust out.


----------



## Mosquito

Nice work David and Dave.

Those cable pass throughs is a good idea


----------



## warrenkicker

Had been watching for a worm-drive saw for a while and took a chance on this one. The red and blue were quite interesting. Guess the owner didn't want it walking off. I had some gold hammer paint as this is a Skilsaw 77 Professional and after removing the bad paint there was gold paint under it. Straightened things out and made a minor repair but mostly removed a lot of dust from the motor. Should be a pound lighter now.


----------



## bigblockyeti

That looks like it cleaned up quite well, the gold paint was an anniversary model, 50th if I remember correctly. Check around, it could be worth some money (If it is a 50th anniversary, rumor has it they were only made with gold paint for 90 days) so if you're planning on it being a user, be sure you're okay with that. I have a few too and it takes a concerted effort to actually use them all (which I do), having a different kind/quality blade in most of makes them ideal for a specific job.


----------



## HokieKen

That lathe is a sexy monster Dave. Even if it is a furriner ;-)

warrenkicker, great job on that worm-drive saw. I've had an eye out for one of those for quite a while and still haven't found one in my price range. You'd think Yeti could part with one of those^! That dude has more circular saws than I have saws of every kind combined ;-)


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Yeti there's probably a 12 step program for that.


----------



## Lazyman

Step one: send one to the Nathan.


----------



## sansoo22

Here is a 604 my mom bought for me at a yard sale for $15 bucks. I think i posted this pic on the hand plane of your dreams forum already. Anyway after buying a house and moving shops I finally got time to work on it.









Here she is all prettied up.









Im quite pleased how the brass on this turned out since it was gunked up with glue and who knows what else. Unfortunately the original tote and knob were too far gone to reuse. The tote broke at like a 60 deg angle and I dont have the skill to put that back together without removing a chunk.









Lapped dead flat on my surface plate. So glad I found the giant one on sale at the local Woodcraft.









And finally here she is going back to work. I gotta say I was surprised that its not my favorite no 4 i own. That title actually goes to a type 18 of all things but this is still a wonderful plane.


----------



## Brit

Nice job!


----------



## corelz125

What a deal that was. Nice work cleaning it up.


----------



## sansoo22

> Nice job!
> 
> - Brit


Thanks. I find the restoration and tuning process as much fun as actually using them. I just finished regrinding and sharpening the iron on a type 9 no 4 last night. Was taking tissue paper thin shavings with a tool that's a 112+ yrs old.



> What a deal that was. Nice work cleaning it up.
> 
> - corelz125


Ya she text me something like "He wanted 25 but got him to 15. Do you want it?" and my reply was "Pay the man and run away cuz you just stole from him". This is the only bed rock i own so not sure if im keeping it yet. I may sell it to help pay for the complete 71 i just bought.


----------



## corelz125

Even at $25 thats a steal. I would hang onto it.


----------



## sansoo22

Managed to get the original tote repaired today. Since it wasnt completely separated and just cracked 3/4 of the way around I was able to float some epoxy down into the crack and then use long threaded rod to keep pressure on it for a couple hours. Unfortunately it spent so much of its time on the bent rod that came out of the plane it now has a permanent twist to it.









Here it is back together









And finally joining his friends











> Even at $25 thats a steal. I would hang onto it.
> 
> - corelz125


I'm keeping the bed rock but one of my No 4s has to go to a new home. I'm thinking the middle one in the pic above.


----------



## Brit

Norris A5 restoration.

Before:









After:


----------



## Brit

Restoration blog here: https://www.lumberjocks.com/Brit/blog/130382#comments


----------



## KelleyCrafts

Wow Brit!!! I have a serious crush on those Norris planes. I unfortunately don't own one.


----------



## WillliamMSP

Most excellent, Brit - I'm covetous.


----------



## JayT

Beautiful work, Andy!


----------



## DLK

Nice work and that plane hammer and combination square are also very very cool. Did you do the artwork on the hammer?


----------



## Brit

No Don. There's a guy in the Ukraine who makes them and he gets Mikhail Davydov to hand engrave them. They are not cheap, but I'm worth it. )


----------



## DLK

Yes you certainly are.


----------



## corelz125

Very impressive tools you have there. One is nicer than the next.


----------



## warrenkicker

Had some days off right after Christmas and went to an estate sale right after it opened on the first day of three. I don't usually get to these sales on the first day and even then usually it is at the end of the day. Spent the whole time in the garage and found a couple of interesting items. Got two 714 wood clamps and some really good condition Jennings bits.

As for the before and after I got a 10" Stanley No 16 miter square, a Stanley No 90 marking gage and a Stanley No 30 angle divider. The marking gage didn't need much help so there isn't a before picture. The angle divider could us some more work but mostly it needed the arms straightened. Good use for my brass hammer and the tail of my vise.


----------



## 33706

Great finds!


----------



## sansoo22

My most recent restoration is a Stanley No 4c Type 13. I think it came out pretty darn good. Maybe not Andy's Norris good but still good.

The before









The After

























I did screw up on the front knob. It has some crack at the base I thought i had fixed but as soon as i tightened it down i heard the glue pop. If anyone knows what type of glue I can float down into the cracks please let me know. I would like to give the knob another try.


----------



## corelz125

What glue did you use the first time?


----------



## sansoo22

I used a gel lock Tite glue. It's the same one I use to fill in Nick's and dings. It's practically invisible once lacquer is applied.


----------



## coopersdad

I've had a John Green moving fillister for a while that I bought as a project. Instead of doing what I should have been this week, I decided to tackle it. It was in pretty good shape except the boxing had warped, chipped in a few spots, and had broken the glue bond and was sticking out. The sole had been kind of messed up too, looked like someone tried to flatten it with a dull plane and made some chatter marks.


















I originally thought I might be able to clamp it back down, and just replace the small piece behind the blade, but I gave up on that idea. I'd never taken anything apart that had been glued with hide glue, but it worked just like it was supposed to. I heated some water on a hot plate and used an eyedropper to get it into the joint, trying not to get too much water all over the plane. It took a while, but once the water seeped through the joint, it eventually pulled out.

Upon close inspection, there was what appeared to be a tiny pin knot in the boxwood, which was where the warp appeared to start.

I discovered real boxwood is hard to find and incredibly expensive when I could find it. I had read that modern planemakers are using persimmon, so I had earlier bought a chunk from a gunstock wood supplier.










I read a lot about grain direction for the boxing and ended up totally confused, so I just oriented it best I could with the grain running uphill towards the toe of the plane. I'm sure that is not the best, but I doubt I'll use it enough to make a difference. The persimmon is HARD, and my tools had to be really sharp.

The boxing had a weird - not 90 degree - angle. I managed to cut it pretty close on the table saw and clean it up with chisels, lots of cut and try and using pencil on the mortise to show high spots on the boxing. I left the sole and outside edge proud, and would plane them flush after installation.










I used Old Brown Glue hide glue and clamped it up, leaving a bit sticking out in the blade bed. After it dried I planed the sole down some, removing most of the chatter marks and flattening it, as it had bowed a bit over time, and then planed the side of the boxing 90 degrees to it. The blade bed was hard to get at, but between chisels and a thin file I got the boxing flush with the original bed.

It came together well and I've only tested it on some pine, but it worked great!


----------



## Miataguy

> PK it s looking glorious so even without responses, a tutorial would be worthwhile.
> 
> - Buckethead


Agreed.


----------



## corelz125

Sansoo the super glue stuff? Try the 2 part epoxy next time.


----------



## sansoo22

> Sansoo the super glue stuff? Try the 2 part epoxy next time.
> 
> - corelz125


Ya it was the super glue stuff. I will give 2 part epoxy a go and see how that goes. Im going to tape off the plane and fill/glue the front knob while its on this time. The cracks are closed when its off and spread with pressure applied. Do you think a little compressed air will push the epoxy into the cracks? Ive seen this done fixing an acoustic guitar but have never tried it myself.


----------



## corelz125

I never seen that done before but I've seen voids or cracks filled with epoxy using a vacuum. I'll have to look the compressed air up. Are the cracks hair line or a little bigger.


----------



## sansoo22

> I never seen that done before but I ve seen voids or cracks filled with epoxy using a vacuum. I ll have to look the compressed air up. Are the cracks hair line or a little bigger.
> 
> - corelz125


There are 4 cracks total. 2 of them are hairline and the other 2 you could fit the tip of a razor blade in to. It's those 2 i'm primarily concerned about. They have irregular shapes from years of movement and use. I'd like to fill them more so than glue them if that makes sense. I'm thinking epoxy should do both for me. Once it cures I will do the inside of the knob as well since the 2 larger cracks have gone clean thru.

I believe the video i saw on the compressed air was a guy fixing Trigger for Willie Nelson.


----------



## bandit571

This is a "Before" photo…









Trying to decide if it is worth the $35 to "rescue" it…









And see about the replacement parts it will need….local Antique Mall….









Seller seems to think these are all gold plated…..


----------



## JayT

sansoo, the biggest issue I've had with cracks in knobs like that is they get filled up with dirt and grime over the years and its near impossible to clean the surfaces well enough for glue to bond. In several cases, I've been better off continuing the crack and splitting the knob, cleaning well and then gluing back together.

If you can get it cleaned, I've had the best luck with either epoxy or polyurethane glue on rosewood. I'd agree with corelz and use epoxy in this situation.


----------



## HokieKen

Agree with JayT. If it's possible to open those cracks up wide enough to get them good and clean with a slip of sandpaper, regular PU glue will fix it. In addition, opening them up some will expose additional surface area for the glue to bond making it and even stronger fix.


----------



## corelz125

Part of me is saying just replace the knob but I would probably do the same thing and try to repair it. That's a sick joke using a perfectly good router plane as a coat rack.


----------



## sansoo22

We are in for an ice/snow storm this weekend so i'm going to take my time and try to open up the 2 larger cracks just enough to get them cleaned out. I won't have much else to do if it ices cuz i dont drive in that crap. I will probably do a quick blog write up of my process regardless of success or failure. May as well post what i learned about it either way.

If all else fails Ol' Bob at Antique & Used Tools has my CC info on file. I can always ring him up and see if he has a replacement for me.

Thanks for all the helpful replies.


----------



## bandit571

> Part of me is saying just replace the knob but I would probably do the same thing and try to repair it. That s a sick joke using a perfectly good router plane as a coat rack.
> 
> - corelz125


Actually, the seller is calling it a "Dowel Cutter" and wants $35 for it….


----------



## corelz125

$35 not such a bad price for a #71 1/2 dowel cutter. At least it has one cutter.


----------



## DLK

If I did not have 3 I would buy it. You'll want two by the way. One for marking and making final depth and the other to get down to it.


----------



## bandit571

Roh Kay, Raggy….walked to the Antique Mall ( rain soaked…and very windy…)

$32. 50 + sales tax….and then the walk back home….rain stopped, must have figured I'd been "soaked" enough..

Going to need a little clean up, once the chunk of Oak was tossed away..









Can't tell if the seller spray painted it black, or it was Japanned black from the factory…









Sole will need a good going over….but…









Will need a pair of knobs….and the wheel to adjust the depth of cut is MIA. I have a set of easy-outs…may look into a new thumbscrew…...then I can worry about sharpening that 1/2" cutter.

Guess I need to go parts shopping….or trading…


----------



## DLK

Oh dear, I thought the wheel was there. Is it standard threads? Knobs you can make or make do with cabinet knobs.


----------



## bandit571

First, need to easy-out what is left of the old thumbscrew….then work on the cutter.

Have a couple spare plane knobs…..and can always re-thread the thumbscrews threads….

Have a line on a wheel….under $20 shipped….

I read somewhere that I could make new cutters from allen wrenches….3/8" and 1/4" ones….

Have removed those "things" he had as handles….will try a knob from a handplane after a bit…as nhplaneparts doesn't seem to have any #71 knobs in stock, WITH hardware.

Seems to be a very bare bones #71 1/2….


----------



## sansoo22

If you're looking for useable handles with hardware there is a set over on eBay. They might not be the right type but they have hardware.


----------



## DLK

> I read somewhere that I could make new cutters from allen wrenches….3/8" and 1/4" ones….
> 
> - bandit571


I did that for the Stanley 271 and it works, but you can buy new veritas router plane cutters that will fit the 71 or 71 1/2 from lee-valley. They are now more expensive then I remember.


----------



## bandit571

Adjuster wheel has been ordered….just under $20….have found 2 knobs to add to the plane…just finding 2 the same height is the "trick" , don't mind the "tall" knobs..used to them, anyways…

Now, do I take this thing back to bare metal….and either leave it that way….or 3 coats of Engine Black?


----------



## sansoo22

> Now, do I take this thing back to bare metal….and either leave it that way….or 3 coats of Engine Black?
> 
> - bandit571


For me it would depend on the handles. Lighter handles with black and dark rosewood with bare shiny metal.


----------



## BlasterStumps

Bandit, remember the early one I cleaned up about a year back? I just soaked it in evap o rust and it came out great. Still had plenty of nickel left. I think I would put it in a soak before going any farther.


----------



## bandit571

Well, awaiting the arrival of the depth adjust wheel…but…









Since I can't re-plate it…will just have to do..









Look any better?









Cutter is quite sharp, BTW….









Working on a 3/8" wide cutter, at the moment…


----------



## DLK

Looks like you made one.


----------



## bandit571

As a follow up….wheel arrived a day early….needed wire wheel clean up. Then used it to chase the threads on the post….crank a few turns, back off one, and keep doing it, until I reach the bottom…so..the "after" is now complete




























$55 Type 6 No. 71-1/2…..not too bad?


----------



## sansoo22

I've had this plane for nearly a year and have done several experiments on it to learn the proper techniques for restorations. Today I finished up its last experiment and put it all back together. I used VHT gloss black instead of the regular Ford Dupli-Color semi gloss. The nearest parts store switched to VHT so i wanted to try it out. I don't like it as well but it did work out.

So here is a few shots of what this thing looked like when i got it


















And here she is all back in working order. This is a Type 9 no 4 so its getting up there in age but it handled some annoying grain red oak without a problem.



























You cant really tell from the pic but that oak has two ellipsis on the same face. The old No 9 put a glass smooth surface on it anyway.


----------



## dbray45

Nice - You will enjoy using that for a long time.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Yes, very nice job on that smoother!


----------



## sansoo22

> Yes, very nice job on that smoother!
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Thanks Smitty. This one will most likely end up on the auction block since someone ^^^ not going to say who posted a blog entry about Stanley marking gauges. Now i have a couple 97s and 98s on my watch list…i prefer the old all metal ones.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

But, but, but… there's no rosewood or brass on those models?

;-)


----------



## theoldfart

So, what's he big deal with rosewood?










Bonus points for spotting the error in the photo.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

> Bonus points for spotting the error in the photo.
> 
> - theoldfart


Easy. Rosewood's missing from each of those gauges.


----------



## bandit571

Replacement thumbscrew…3 rod gauge has the rods in bass-ackwards


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty's a smart ass.

Bandit's smart!

I'll admit to having a couple of r**ewood/brass gauges.


----------



## sansoo22

As a follow up to a plane I posted a few weeks ago that had a cracked front knob I have before and after of fixing it.


















The after isn't the finished job. Its only had Danish Oil applied but the cracks are nearly invisible now. I wrote up a blog entry with more detail here if anyone is interested in how I repaired it.

Two part epoxy blown in with a compressor turned down super low was the ticket.


----------



## HokieKen

Excellent job on the knob Sansoo. I'll hop over and check out the blog 

Y'all call those^ marking gauges? This is a marking gauge:


----------



## corelz125

Good as new sansoo. Its like the cracks were never there.


----------



## sansoo22

> Good as new sansoo. Its like the cracks were never there.
> 
> - corelz125


Thanks! This little endeavor did get me in hot water tho. The epoxy smelled like a skunk's ass turned inside out and since its been stupid cold here I decided to do my work in the basement. Well when its that cold furnaces like to run more and thus circulate that lovely smell thru the house. Apparently the boss lady works real hard to make the house smell nice. So no more epoxy in the basement.


----------



## CaptainKlutz

> The epoxy smelled like a skunk s ass turned inside out …... So no more epoxy in the basement.
> - sansoo22


Use different epoxy! There are low odor versions of epoxy available. They use less objectionable curatives. Hobby stores sell 'Finish Cure' 20 min kit that is not too bad. Also look for table top epoxy system that is rated for structural work. Look up Pro Marine Supplies, or East Coast Resin for examples.
The low odor stuff tends to be lower viscosity surface or intended as laminating resin, but all of it is stronger than wood itself. 
YMMV


----------



## Lazyman

I was going to know how you know what a skunk's ass turned inside out smells like but I don't want to know.


----------



## miketo

I think Sansoo meant to add DAMHIK (Don't Ask Me How I Know) to his post.


----------



## sansoo22

For anyone curious it involves a chicken coup, a skunk, my dad, a 12 gauge and me being the one small enough to crawl under said chicken coup.


----------



## corelz125

I know what you mean about how bad it can smell. I used one brand once my garage stunk for a month. The smell was even in my clothes when i came inside.


----------



## sansoo22

This one worried me that it wouldn't be able to be rescued. It was pretty severely rusted. Had to soak it in a tub of pb blaster just to get it to come apart. The lever cap in this photo is one i found in my spares drawer. Surprisingly this type 13 came with a very shiny type 16+ kidney hole cap on it.









And the bottom wasn't any prettier. Was afraid it was going to be too pitted to even use









The plane gods smiled upon this old Type 13 and gave it a new lease on life









The bottom is now micro pitted but nothing to keep it from going back to work









Even manage to take out most of the peen on the iron without losing the logo. Seriously who ever owned this plane didnt know what the depth adjuster was for…when in doubt get a bigger hammer i guess


----------



## sansoo22

Last one for awhile I promise. Moved to the new shop with lots of rusty finds from last spring I never got a chance to work on until now.

The one in the foreground is the before shot. Only before pic I can find.









Here it is all prettied up. I had to strip the whole thing naked, paint it, then dyed the handles, sealed them with shellac and finished with gloss lacquer. Added a Hock iron because the middle plane in the pic above had a terrible one so stole it from this poor fellow.

















And a close up of the tote









I need a better camera and lighting because this thing looks almost as good as new.


----------



## CFrye

In wood working "sharp fixes everything". In photography it's "lighting fixes everything". 
Beautiful restoration, sansoo! Keep 'em coming!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Ditto, beautiful work Sansoo!


----------



## Mosquito

dang Sansoo, that's a mighty fine looking plane now


----------



## BlasterStumps

sansoo you are having way too much fun. I'm jealous. Nice work!


----------



## HokieKen

Yep, well done Sansoo. You're getting to be a pro with these things!


----------



## sansoo22

Thanks for the kind words. Its very encouraging. I try my best to never alter them if it can be avoided. But sometimes the original finishes are just too far gone to save.

I have a few big boys left to do still. I think 2 #6s a #7 and a #8. I've never tackled anything bigger than a #5 so wish me luck. Hoping all the practice has prepared me for the big boys.


----------



## corelz125

The only thing harder about a 7 or 8 is flattening them things


----------



## sansoo22

> The only thing harder about a 7 or 8 is flattening them things
> 
> - corelz125


My surface plate has a 22 or 23 inch capacity diagonally so it should work out. I may pick up a nice straight edge before I start on the #7. Its probably not needed but i dont have one and i would like to make sure the toe, mouth, and heel are staying co-planer.


----------



## bandit571

Use a framing square….


----------



## sansoo22

> Use a framing square….
> 
> - bandit571


Thanks Bandit. I didn't think of that. I do have one of those that I haven't even dropped yet so should be nice and straight with no dings in it.


----------



## HokieKen

> My surface plate has a 22 or 23 inch capacity diagonally so it should work out. I may pick up a nice straight edge before I start on the #7. Its probably not needed but i dont have one and i would like to make sure the toe, mouth, and heel are staying co-planer.
> 
> - sansoo22


These straight edges are pretty good. I bought a long one when I was flattening my workbench and it's been well worth what it costs. It's aluminum so it won't last forever but, when I got mine (38" IIRC) I checked the flatness on it on a granite standard at work and it seemed well within the specified tolerance.

It's probably overkill for a hand plane but I think it's a handy thing to have around.


----------



## sansoo22

> It s probably overkill for a hand plane but I think it s a handy thing to have around.
> 
> - HokieKen


That's just standard operating procedure for me it seems.

Thanks for the link. I've been wanting one for awhile to check that my Makita tracks are straight when I join both pieces. I think I've looked at those before but was hesitant to buy without confirmation they are actually within spec. If you give them the "ok" i will pick one up.


----------



## HokieKen

I wouldn't use it to scrape machine ways but I'd be damn confident using it on a handplane or to flatten a benchtop.


----------



## corelz125

I watched one video the guy showed how he lapped the sole on an 8. Can't seem to find that video anymore. He gave it a few swipes on the plate flipped it over then would hand sand the high spots. Worked at it like that till it was close enough.


----------



## CaptainKlutz

> I watched one video the guy showed how he lapped the sole on an 8. Can t seem to find that video anymore. He gave it a few swipes on the plate flipped it over then would hand sand the high spots. Worked at it like that till it was close enough.
> 
> - corelz125


I do something similar, except I hand scrape, occasionally even file the really high spots.
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Flattening%20Cast%20Iron%20Surfaces.ashx


----------



## HokieKen

You're my hero Klutz. I scrap (what I call scraping) the fit between the sole and the frog. Detailed in this blog post. But I would LOVE to be able to properly scrape something. It's a class I'd love to take someday. I'm pondering ordering myself one of these and seeing if I can teach myself via YouTube  I have the reference and can probably come up with the tools…


----------



## Bertha

Kind of boring but I haven't posted in this miracle thread in a while. About 2 hours out of my morning.

191 not bad. Has nickers lol. Missing cap screw. I've seen worse irons and soles.










I lapped the bottom to 220 wet.










Quick pass over coarse diamond and the iron is worse than I thought.

Had to grind past the pitting and the coarse stone left scratches that persisted. Cutting edge clean, though.



















I went high speed grinder with quench, then Tormek at 25, then sandpaper to take the hollow out.
This shoulder'ish blade doesn't sit well in the wet grinder jig, so it was a bit skew. Corrected it later.

Ignore the cap screw, but assembled it per manual.



















It works!


----------



## bandit571

IF you have a #78, with that second cap screw…..use it for this plane. Should be the same screw.


----------



## sansoo22

Nice work on the 191 and especially that iron. I don't have Tormek so its surface plate, sand paper, and diamond stones to rehab irons for me. Takes awhile but i've learned a lot about bevels doing it the hard way.

And I just remembered I don't have a 191. I have 190 and 192 so someone out there is going to thank you for the money I spend to fill in that gap.


----------



## theoldfart

So the starting point is here.









AA 109 Craftsman lathe from 1945 or so. 6" threading machine.

Started to tear it down and found only one repair to be done.
It was braised previously but has cracked again, bad design.









Ive got the main ways cleaned up, just need to run a fine stone over them and thats it.









So here's where it's at.


----------



## GrantA

Cool little lathe! If it's not too late don't use a stone on the ways just use a razor blade


----------



## theoldfart

Grant, I did use a razor blade. I thought a few passes with a fine hard stone would be a good way to finish. Will this take off too much material?


----------



## DanKrager

What GrandA said. The ways should be scraped, not abraded, and that by someone who knows how to do it well.

I'm looking for a creature like this:









Small (tiny) dowel pointer for a brace. Thanks for any leads.

DanK


----------



## GrantA

Don't use anything abrasive on the ways. Get em smooth with a razor and oil em. That's all that's needed, just live with any staining unless you're going to learn how to do (or pay someone to do) a scraping job.


----------



## theoldfart

Got it, thanks guys.


----------



## HokieKen

Stone the ways ONLY if and where there are nicks/dings you can feel with your fingers Kev. That's a neat little lathe but its abilities don't warrant having it scraped in.

I hope you have the cool art deco covers


----------



## theoldfart

Breaking the lathe down is done.










The bushings are in good shape. The spindle shaft is straight, many times they are bent on these. So on to cleaning, painting and reassembly.


----------



## BenMacDonald

Not a complex restoration, but here's the cleanup of a generic Taiwanese drill press acquired for $30 on CL. Disassembled, cleaned, soaked what I could in evaporust and hit it with some spray paint. It was a new process for me, definitely enjoyed it.


----------



## DLK

> What GrandA said. The ways should be scraped, not abraded, and that by someone who knows how to do it well.
> 
> I m looking for a creature like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Small (tiny) dowel pointer for a brace. Thanks for any leads.
> 
> DanK
> 
> - Dan Krager


How long can you wait? I should be back in my shop in June, where I have one.


----------



## DanKrager

I've waited 60 years, so why would I be in a hurry now? However, I've only recently realized that I wanted one and it would be useful. The bigger one I have just can't reach much below 1/2". Methinks this is a Hargrave dowel pointer but the blade may not be present on the one pictured above. The one below definitely has the blade…










PM me when you please. I hope I can remember that long… 

DanK


----------



## Mambrax

Very Cool!


> Not a complex restoration, but here s the cleanup of a generic Taiwanese drill press acquired for $30 on CL. Disassembled, cleaned, soaked what I could in evaporust and hit it with some spray paint. It was a new process for me, definitely enjoyed it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - BenMac


----------



## 33706

*BenMac*: nice job!! Better than new!


----------



## 33706

Ooops duplicate post


----------



## 33706

> Nice work on the 191 and especially that iron. I don t have Tormek so its surface plate, sand paper, and diamond stones to rehab irons for me. Takes awhile but i ve learned a lot about bevels doing it the hard way.
> 
> And I just remembered I don t have a 191. I have 190 and 192 so someone out there is going to thank you for the money I spend to fill in that gap.
> 
> - sansoo22


Are you looking for *a #191? * PM me.


----------



## DLK

O.K. *Dan Krager * I will try to remember too. Meanwhile here is one on ebay.


----------



## DanKrager

Well whadya know. That little bugger didn't show up on two days of browsing. I'm gonna put the minimum bid and see what happens. 4 hours left.

DanK


----------



## theoldfart

well, did you get it?


----------



## DLK

You must of got it. It seems to have sold at the minimum bid.


----------



## DanKrager

I thought I posted on here that I did put the bid and no one else bid, so with shipping and taxes it left a little change from $31. Little steep for what it is, but It will be useful. Thanks for the tip Combo.

Sales tax on the internet now?

DanK


----------



## Mosquito

Depends on the state. I think about 2/3 have it. MN does on all internet transactions now, not just limited to places that have a physical building in that state.


----------



## bigblockyeti

I remember when sales tax was trickling through the states one by one on Amazon sales, I bought a bunch of crap before it hit ohio then on larger purchases (like tires for my truck) I sent those to my parents in SC a day or two before Amazon sales tax was applied down here. I still like buying used and local, anything that doesn't have to be registered or titled saves a bundle on taxes, not to mention getting a deal to start with.


----------



## Mosquito

The Amazon tax thing was because they were building more and more distribution or routing centers. At that point they were required to start charging sales tax.

Technically speaking, everyone was supposed to have been reporting any online (non-taxed) purchase and pay "Use Tax" on it. I'm guessing most people didn't even know that, let alone actually do it


----------



## CaptainKlutz

Off topic, but want to be accurate regarding Sales Tax for Online Purchases:

Has been a complicated nightmare sneaking into online businesses since 2018 court case.
Nice summary here, just a little complicated:
https://www.salestaxinstitute.com/resources/remote-seller-nexus-chart

Summary: 
As of Jan 2020, most states that collect sales tax, requires online sellers to collect it. There are some exceptions for small online businesses with limited numbers of transactions and total annual sales.

Here is pic for the reading impaired










Cheers!


----------



## DLK

> I thought I posted on here that I did put the bid and no one else bid, so with shipping and taxes it left a little change from $31. Little steep for what it is, but It will be useful. Thanks for the tip Combo.
> 
> Sales tax on the internet now?
> 
> DanK
> 
> - Dan Krager


Glad you got. I was reluctant to give up the one I had, but was willing to do so to a fine gentleman like yourself.

Yes sales tax on the internet now. So now now you don't have to keep track and make sure you pay it yourself.


----------



## bandit571

The Before..



























And the After…



























Millers Falls No. 15, Type 3…









Might have it about done? Bought it this afternoon, for $22.50 + Tax.


----------



## HokieKen

Nice work Bandit!


----------



## KentInOttawa

That's a major improvement, Bandit. Well done!


----------



## 33706

Here's a few shots of my recently completed restoration of a Stanley Liberty Bell #129.










Disassembly and de-rusting










Cut new bed from American Red Beech










Re-fitting the refurbished hardware










Finished product




























All made possible by, and inspired by, Dan Krager, (DanK) who bravely stepped up to manufacture the 'nibs' a quirky little bit of hardware that is typically missing on these planes, as seen here:










What a long, strange trip it's been!! Thanks all for looking!


----------



## DLK

How well do these laminated bodies hold up?


----------



## 33706

A few notes I've accumulated in my mind concerning these Stanley Liberty Bell planes: This is an old design, prepared for production in 1876. These planes have no fore-and-aft frog adjustment, indeed the frog is an integral casting to the iron top.

Neither is there a lateral adjustment, except for whatever a sloppy fit allows. This particular plane was not used much, I'm guessing, because the entire mousetrap was assembled to the wooden sole wrong. It must have been a real problem plane from the get-go.

The iron was affixed to the sole in such a way that the lower half of the cutter had no support from the rear ramp of the bed. The sole itself was warped into an arch, and by the time I got it straight with the jointer, it was too thin to re-hab.

The #129 is supposed to be 20", but what the hey, I didn't have the heart to dock the 4 extra inches, so I left it at 24". If/when the time comes, a saw will delight any purist. The bed is straight as a die.

Thanks again to* DanK* for his expertise in fabricating the nibs, I was pleasantly surprised to receive a dozen or so.! Hope Dan enjoys the trinkets I sent him!


----------



## 33706

> How well do these laminated bodies hold up?
> 
> - Combo Prof


TY for asking!
My go to plane for large, long surfaces is my re-habbed Stanley #34 that I built twelve years ago.. The joints are probably stronger than the wood itself, and the differentiated grain discourages warp or twist, in my opinion. My stock of beech is all rough 2" X 2" so I had one joint run straight down the middle on the #129, as well as the two side strips.


----------



## DanKrager

It's just neat to see one coming to life again, especially one that was pretty useless. Great work on that plane. It looks like it's almost two weeks long! Good luck on the others, too Poopiekat. Proud to have been helpful!

Those trinkets get used surprisingly often and more and more as I move more toward hand tools. And kudos to the much bashed Canadian mail system for a reasonable delivery time both ways. What could go wrong? 

DanK


----------



## bandit571

The "Before"..









And..the after..









The Before…









And, the After…









Goodell Pratt Company No. 329


----------



## Brit

Nice save Bandit


----------



## HokieKen

Well done PK and Bandit! That Liberty Bell looks brand new!


----------



## 33706

Thanks, Hokie!


----------



## DLK

> How well do these laminated bodies hold up?
> 
> - Combo Prof
> 
> TY for asking!
> My go to plane for large, long surfaces is my re-habbed Stanley #34 that I built twelve years ago.. The joints are probably stronger than the wood itself, and the differentiated grain discourages warp or twist, in my opinion. My stock of beech is all rough 2" X 2" so I had one joint run straight down the middle on the #129, as well as the two side strips.
> 
> - poopiekat


*PK* I read the following "In the video by Todd Herrli, he advocates using laminated stock for the body of the [molding] planes and if you do some research, you will find that this isn't recommended. The theory is that the wood won't properly breathe because the glue layer impedes the moisture and this can cause cracking or splitting." What you say is perfectly reasonable too. I just wonder what is the truth. Probably a bit of both. If may be a difference for molding planes versus bench planes.

I bet one could laminate good plywood and make a decent plane. It would be to some ugly, but I bet it might work well.


----------



## 33706

*Combo Prof*:
I have a storage area full of Transitional planes which I have collected over the years. Virtually every one of them over 15 inches has a deficiency in the condition of the single piece wooden bed. Most of them are warped in some way or another, have checking, cracks, or otherwise unsuitable for restoration. If what you say is even remotely true, then, for example, every butcher block ever made in the world would have imploded by now. But then, you say *"If I do some research…."*

I respect your right to harshly criticize my work. Just let it go, if my projects bother you so much. Over, out.


----------



## DanKrager

*PK* I don't read any harsh criticism in *CP*'s comment. It is presenting a different opinion, and that shouldn't be cause for hard feelings.

I happen to be in the laminated camp and can testify that laminations I have created 50+ years ago are not cracked or warped. The modern adhesives are so FAR superior to what was available then and before that I seriously question the notion that the glue line interferes somehow. And since the strain forces are scattered about the clock in laminations, the risk of both cracking in a smaller piece and otherwise accumulating enough force to distort the laminated block is rare.

YMMV

DanK


----------



## DLK

*I was not harshly criticizing your work and I don't know how you can conclude that. *I was just telling you about something I read and was trying to understand what is what. It was not my opinion. I am in neither camp. Lamination is just fine by me. In fact I suggested that one could consider making a plane using laminated plywood. I think it would be an interesting experiment and I bet it would work very well. *I think your projects are just great. I have done similar work. *

By the way I did not say: "If I do some research…." That was just in what I read. I reported to you the entirety of what I read. I was quoting paragraph six of  Making your own moulding planes


----------



## Lazyman

Anyone ever seen or used a laser descaling machine? I stumbled upon this.










Here the link that I followed. The price seems a little too good to be true so follow at your own risk.


----------



## bigblockyeti

Must have been; 404 not found.


----------



## CaptainKlutz

Laser descale for weld prep has been around a while?

Road and track did a TV segment on it once a couple years ago (2016):
https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/classic-cars/videos/a30597/best-rust-remover-laser/

Red laser head/machine runs ~$50/60K USD from an OEM with a warranty. 
China sells same machines for about half that.

They become widely available in late 1990's when photo lithography development folks figure out to make inexpensive semiconductor based 3D micro mirrors to steer the light. Remember the TI DLP TV and projectors? 
That tech started a revolution in laser scanning and control. 

Have used red/green laser systems for surface treatment and marking of polymer surfaces with same tech. Green is more gentle and doesn't abrade as deep on polymers. Helps adhesion, removes mold release contaminants, and removes a glossy surface to increase contrast for part marking. Ozone plasma also descales polymer surfaces well, and it was cheaper for large areas (like LCD Displays).

Another example of better living through chemistry and science…..
if you can afford it!


----------



## 33706

*Combo Prof:*
Yes, I'll admit it, I overreacted. I'll admit it, I'm edgy these days, into my 12th day of self-quarantine due to that damn virus going around.

You're a valued partner around here and if I could have erased my reaction above I certainly would have done so.


----------



## DLK

You are forgiven my friend. I am also very very stressed out, with figuring how to prepare online lectures, finish a complicated sale of our properties, avoid contact with humans, hold inside my anger with the administration and so on. Tough times to remain civil and happy. I shall try to be more careful with my posting.


----------



## 33706

> Anyone ever seen or used a laser descaling machine? I stumbled upon this.
> 
> The price seems a little too good to be true so follow at your own risk.
> 
> - Lazyman


The video that I knew of was this one:






And of course my thoughts went directly to derusting old tools. How safe is the procedure? How many watts are required? How much does it cost, to buy and to run?


----------



## Lazyman

> Must have been; 404 not found.
> 
> - bigblockyeti


I still have the webpage opened in a tab in my browser and it looks like the images from the webpage for the descaler are still available even though you cannot reach the page now. Here is one that has me baffled. It appears that he runs it over his hand with no apparent damage.


----------



## HokieKen

The laser is basically pummeling the metal with extremely high-frequency microwaves that are tuned to break the molecular bonds between iron and oxygen. It can be tuned to specific metals or to remove stuff like paint as well. But, it's not a one-size-fits-all kind of thing. The wavelength, frequency and flux of the laser have to be application specific.

As far as why it doesn't hurt us, I assume the frequency is too high and the magnitude too low for it to affect our organic tissue or our porous bones. That's just a guess though.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Okay, here we go.

Started with a compound mitre saw. Dad's saw. It's a Craftsman, 80s-vintage, cast iron based beast of a tool. 3HP motor that screams when triggered. Well, a couple years ago the saw was damaged when I wasn't around (long story, don't ask). The swivel table has a tightening handle that was broken off; that I re-wickered with an old wooden screwdriver handle. A bigger issue was the actual 'pull-down, pull the trigger' handle being busted as the mount point. I tried epoxy, and that's the way the saw was pressed into a bit of service this week.



















I did several cuts with it this way, and it worked, but it wasn't right. It's a huge, heavy, boat anchor of a tool but I don't want to replace it. "Because they don't make 'em like this anymore."

So off to the web I went, channeling my best searching self, and found the parts I needed to make this lady whole again.










Swap out the button, rewire the trigger, place the safety spring, and Presto!










There you go, my restoration this week!


----------



## HokieKen

That'll do Smitty! Make that beast work


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Good for another 40 years now, and maybe more because it's called upon quite as often. Great tool for cutting 2×4s to length. Heck, I even upgraded the blade from the very, very rough cutter that has been on there for a decade or so.


----------



## bandit571

Hmmm…the "Before" 









And, the After (so far..)


















Over view, before all the tools arrived..









Going to try to build a pair of doors for this box…









And…..one for Smitty…









Sitting in front of a Type 10 No. 6c….is a Type 7 No. 8…..Olde Heft & Hubris, himself…


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

There you go, a H&H indeed!


----------



## HokieKen

Nice job Bandit. If you're like me though, putting doors on that box, in that location means that either the doors will never get closed or you will never be able to open them for all the crap sitting in front of them :-(


----------



## bandit571

Charles Neil gifted me that old No. 8…..as he wanted it to be put to use. Brought it back home, after a visit to his shop for a weekend…


----------



## HokieKen

Wow, that's cool Bandit. I was in that shop in December. Unfortunately it was for the estate sale.


----------



## DanKrager

Nice case *Bandit*. A place for things withing a step or two.

If you've never built a roll up tambour now might be a good time to do it. Let the door roll up like a window shade. Then stuff in front doesn't get in the way. I considered that strongly for my tills, but they still have no doors. Naked and exposed.

DanK


----------



## HokieKen

Ooooh that's a good idea Dan. I like that a lot


----------



## bandit571

A few views for you, Kenny..









And..on the road, again…









and…


----------



## HokieKen

You just can't beat those Blue Ridge Mountains Bandit  Not sure why the rest of y'all live anywhere else ;-p

Did you take a class with Charles or just drop by for a visit Bandit?


----------



## bandit571

Stumpy held a get together down there a few years back, before Charles got sick….

West Virginia has two directions….up….or..downhill….was a bit of a drive, from West Central Ohio…..

Shenandoah Shindig was the name of the get together…

Building a pair of doors, today…..so I can hang even more toys on the cabinet….

Things keep up….I may re-do the plane till, next…..May do away with the hammer til..









And gain over a foot in width. Might have enough planes to fill that space up, too.


----------



## BrentParkin

All this time on my hands while we self isolate as gotten me off my arse and cleaning up some stuff that has been sitting on the shelf too long. Not sure why LJ system rotated some of my pictures, but you get the idea.

First up was a beat up old Union 4 3/8 plane. The previous owner gave it a rough life which included burning the tote like it was campfire wood. Union used mahogany for their knobs and totes so it was easy enough to find a piece to use. They have a shorter height than Stanley totes and a more pronounced horn. It turned out really well, but will need some years to get the mahogany to darken up more like the amazing fat front knob.

















Next up were a couple of crusty and rusty Stanley's. A 5 1/2C and a 4C. Both of them three patent date planes. The 5 1/2 needed its broken tote repaired and a graft to replace the missing horn on it. I tried matching the Rosewood as best I could. Sadly the 5 1/2 had 1% japanning left after I removed the rust so it got a paint job. It will never be a show piece, but it will make a terrific user plane and it does look great now. The 4C was found with no tote at all so I made a new Rosewood tote for it. It's a different Rosewood species, but it still looks fine and it will make a great user.


































Next up is an early No.8 and a 140 side rabbet. I may actually get all these things caught up.

Stay save in the Covid crisis everyone.


----------



## corelz125

Nice looking totes


----------



## 33706

A 4 3/8 Union??? I gotta have one now. Nice work on the restore!!


----------



## Just_Iain

> A 4 3/8 Union??? I gotta have one now. Nice work on the restore!!
> 
> - poopiekat


Poopiekat,

Where would you store a 4 3/8 Union? Having seen photos of your various plane collections, your workshop must be based on Dr Who's Tardus!

Iain


----------



## theoldfart

I bought a Dorn's patent revolving mitre box a few months ago. This is how it looked at the time.



























The spring clamp is holding the broken upright together. A friend brazed the two serious cracks for me. Just completed painting it.



















The first cut


















So far so good!


----------



## corelz125

Nice job Kevin, How did the braze come out?


----------



## theoldfart

Pretty good, you can see it on the right side of the uprights. the other is hidden on the bottom of the carousel.


----------



## 33706

Nice save, *Kevin!*


----------



## CFrye

Niiiice, Kevin!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

It looks outstanding, love the green paint job!

Question: How stable is it when cutting longer stock? I guess, how heavy is the box? If you cut a long piece at one end, how does the box stay flat on the bench?

Not this it's possible we all run out and buy Dorn's Patent boxes as daily users…


----------



## HokieKen

That's one sexy green machine Kev!


----------



## ToddJB

Nice Kev! What color is that?


----------



## theoldfart

Smitty, it's very stable. It weighs over twenty five pounds without the saw. It is low to the ground so to speak, decks height is 1 1/2".










For long work, a simple block of wood should suffice to keep the work stable. I'll be experimenting today and get back to you. I promised Jehtrobodean i'd post a more detailed comment on the mitre box thread.

PK, Candy, Ken thanks for the comments. The color is as close as I could get to what I think was the original.

Todd,










It was going to be a long time before I could get to the commercial Sherwin Williams store to get the machine paint so I had already bought the rattle cans and ….....


----------



## DLK

Does anyone know how to restore the reddish lacquer/varnish color you find on Miller Falls knobs, totes and handles?
I have to strip/remove the old lacquer off a MF 1 hand drill, it pretty chipped up and the crank knob was particularly bad.


----------



## shampeon

I don't know for sure (I love Millers Falls stuff, but it's a damn shame they covered up that goncalo with red varnish, so I usually remove it).

If I were you I would experiment with adding Transtint red a drop at a time to some varnish and put some dabs on test pieces until you get the right effect.


----------



## DLK

What would you use for the test pieces? I don't have any of the cocobola or goncalo they used. The MF label is still on the handle it would be nice to save it. So I don't want to remove the red vanish from that part but I will need to fix the cap. Here are some photos of what I am up against. MF No. 1 hand drill:










Working on the crank knob now.










A close up.










OMG they drilled a hole through the end cap.










And some bozo, took a wrench to the chuck:


----------



## shampeon

Have any scraps of mahogany? The MF hand drill and braces I have use some sort of mahogany-like wood.

If not, I'd probably just remove the crank knob (since it's in such bad shape), chuck it up, sand it down to bare wood, and use it as the test piece. They, uh, weren't stingy with the varnish, if you're looking to match it exactly.


----------



## DLK

Was it varnish or shellac ? I have plenty of mahogany and I have just now plugged the holes in the end cap, with it.
I managed to sand off the varnish from the crank knob and now see that the knob id not that bad after all. It was just all chips into the think varnish. I ordered red-mahogany transtint and I hope that is the best choice. I think I could change the order on Monday morning to red transtint if you think that would be better. Boy is it expensive. The bootle costs more than I paid for the hand drill.


----------



## Lazyman

If you have any of the "varnish" or sanding dust left, see if it dissolves in alcohol. If it does, it's shellac.


----------



## DLK

^ thanks for the tip!


----------



## shampeon

I think it's varnish, but you could use shellac too. And yeah, red mahogany looks like the right stuff.

Man, I think Transtint dyes are now about twice as expensive as they were when I bought mine < 10 years ago. The good news: you'll have enough for the rest of your life….


----------



## Brit

I'm interested to see what you do with this one Don. I have a couple of MF drills in the restore pile. Mind you they've been there for about 6 years. )


----------



## DLK

The alcohol test says it is not shellac. So its varnish. Can I transtint dye varnish ? I suppose it has to be waterbased. Hmmm…. it seems that it will be best to dye alcohol or water and use it to stain the wood and then apply (poly) varnish. Any adivce would be appreciated.

The status now is that I have it all apart, and all the metal is cleaned up, the two holes in the end cap are plugged with mahogany and the varnish. Deciding if I will paint the frame. I will probably paint the wheel, but maybe not.
But both are not horrible.

I'll post some progress pictures in a bit. Taking a rest now.


----------



## bandit571

hmmm…









No. 2-01…









The large eggbeaters…and..









Surprises…









And..pop the top.


----------



## DLK

Here are my midway pictures of the MF 1 restoration.

The crank knob with no finish. I think I will sand it a bit more.










The parts are shown below. There were 8 bits in the handle. Should I paint the frame and the wheel ?










Mahogany repair of the hole in the cap. It was a 1/4 inch hole and the smallest plug cutter I had was 3/8" so I re-drilled to 3/8 leaving a shoulder to set the plug against and glued it in. Then on the lath I spun the knob to sand the cap smooth. I am hopping that the transtint dye will hide the repair better.


----------



## shampeon

You could take a very fine tip pencil and continue the grain lines to hide the repair, too.

This says you can mix in shellac and TransTint, and add that to an oil based wiping varnish.
https://www.joewoodworker.com/transtints.htm

Or you can use waterborne varnish.


----------



## DLK

Thanks that seems useful. Well it will be a few days before my order of transtint arrives from rockler, so I few days for research on what will be the best method.


----------



## Lazyman

If you've never used it before, remember that a little Transtint goes a long way. You literally add a drop at a time to sneak up on the color you want. I usually mix small batches, which is especially true since you have something so small to finish, but sometimes the Transtint is so strong that you have to dilute the dye first with alcohol and then mix it into your small batch of varnish.


----------



## DLK

What varnish do you recommend?


----------



## Lazyman

I've only ever used the dye to tint water based poly or shellac or to tweak the water based stains from General Finishes. I usually use it to dye the wood first and then apply a finish over it.

I don't think that it can be used to dye an oil based varnish. The Joes woodworking link above, near the top, says:

"*As a Toner - TransTint dyes can be added to any water or solvent based finish including, shellac, water-based products, solvent lacquers, polyester, and two component lacquers and varnishes.*"

But further down it lists a bunch of incompatibilites that indicate specifically that it cannot be used with oil based varnishes:

Known Incompatibilties
TransTints are incompatible* when added to the following products:


Oil based varnishes and polyurethanes
Watco Danish Oil, Minwax Wipe on Poly, Minwax Antique Oil, and similar wipe on oil finishes (excluding gels)
All oil based liquid stains (excluding oil based gel stains)
Mineral Spirits
Tung oil and Linseed oil
*
 2K (2-component) polyurethane finishes


You can always apply TransTint to the wood, let dry, and then apply these products.


----------



## CaptainKlutz

IME - as long as you dissolve Transtint into a solvent compatible with top coat and dye, you can blend the two together. Lacquer thinner is a blend of solvents that works for some oil finishes. Toluene/xylene will blend into Transtint and is compatible with most finishes where minerial spirits clean up is specified. 
While only common in auto paint supply, can use various glycol ester solvents/reducers to disperse Transtint, and then blend the solvent into chemistry problematic finishes.

Only finish I would not attempt to use Transtint is anything Minwax. They use wacko blends of solvents, and if you add wrong kind of solvent and the chemistry gets out balance; it will turn into useless goopy jello like soup.

Test before using, but test is easy. 
If Transtint will fully disperse into the solvent, and stay in solution after sitting for 5-10 minutes (without settling); AND the solvent is similarly compatible with finish; the solvent should work as bridge for the dye.

Will be honest: This kind of finish chemistry is not intended for home garage. That is why the general recommendation is to say not compatible.

As always, test, test, test, and YMMV

Cheers!


----------



## bandit571

Mix into a pint, or less of Minwax Clear Gloss….find the one can of RED maple/mahogany, and a can of DARK Walnut….3 dashes of red, one dash of dark….Do NOT mix well….when brushed on, it is supposed to streak.., keep adding coats until thick enough. Trying for a "Polyshades" effect of streaks. Mix just enough to coat the handles…










Millers Falls No. 9, Type 4…..this is the way it came home with me….just had to clean the crud off…


----------



## bandit571

My Stanley No. 71-1/2 was looking rather dull…almost as bad as when it came in the door a while back..









And, since these were Nickle Plated when they were brand new…









About as close to Nickle Plate as I can get….did not do the sole, even though Stanley did. Looks a little better, now?


----------



## DLK

I finished the cleaning and oiling and put her back together while I wait the transtint dye to arrive. It runs smooth and I had a little fun drilling holes. I still have not decided on painting the frame and wheel, but I am leaning on not to.


----------



## HokieKen

I agree Don, I wouldn't paint that one. Looks pretty danged good as-is! That's a fine specimen


----------



## DLK

The red-mahogany transtint arrived, I dissolved 4 drops in approx 1.33 US oz (1.4 imperial oz) of denatured achohol a little two dark I think, but not bad. I then brushed on two coats of shellac. and touched up the other dings in the finish with shellac.

*Before*









*After:*









*Now in its holder:*









*I have a few more to do:*









Most of these will be easy. The fourth MFs from the left a MF 2-AG will be I think the most challenging. They are quite fun to restore. I had done the MF 77 in the single rack above the MF 1 earlier and had to clean, replace the springs, repaint and lubricate. The two Goodell and Pratts in the next rack to the right, may also be difficult.


----------



## theoldfart

So Don, what's the plan? Each size bit gets its own drill?


----------



## bandit571

> So Don, what's the plan? Each size bit gets its own drill?
> 
> 
> 
> - theoldfart


Of course, doesn't everybody? ;-)


----------



## DLK

W


> So Don, what's the plan? Each size bit gets its own drill?
> 
> 
> 
> - theoldfart


Well you asked so here is the story:

Of the hand drills I had the MF 77 and it was such a fun restoration I wanted to do more. I did some research and I quote: The two eggbeater drills pictured here were manufactured during the period when the company was using an orange varnish stain on the wooden components of its tools. The top drill is the No. 2, the bottom drill, the No. 5.

So I set out to find a MF1 and a MF5. Acquired those and then said to mysefl : "Self, you should a full set 1,2,3,4,5. (I didn't know there was Didn't know there was a 2-A, 2-AG, 2-B ).

Oh and also the Goodell and Pratt 5 1/2 was recommended so ….

So you know the usual decay into unintended obsessed collecting .


----------



## DLK

> So Don, what's the plan? Each size bit gets its own drill?
> 
> 
> 
> - theoldfart


Well you asked so here is the story:

Of the hand drills I had the MF 77 and it was such a fun restoration I wanted to do more. I did some research and I quote:

In February 1956, Joe Guilbault, a veteran of fifty years in the Millers Falls hand drill department, was interviewed for the firm's employee magazine, Dyno-mite. During his long tenure, Guilbault worked on sixty-one different hand drill models, fitting the gears on more drills than perhaps anyone in the history of the company. Asked if he has a favorite among all the models, Guilbault replied, "The number two, that is it. The best hand drill in all the world. The number five, too. I like two and five best."

So I set out to find a MF1 and a MF5. Acquired those and then said to mysefl : "Self, you should a full set 1,2,3,4,5. (I didn't know there was Didn't know there was a 2-A, 2-AG, 2-B ).

Oh and also the Goodell and Pratt 5 1/2 was recommended so ….

So you know the usual decay into unintended obsessed collecting .


----------



## theoldfart

Stay away from vintage drill bit catalogues then! Damhikt


----------



## DLK

Speaking of drill bits … I was musing on why one would ever want to use a straight flute tiny drill bit (for woodworking) over a twist drill bit. And the answer I think is control. The twist bit will draw down into the wood and it is not easy to lose control and punch out he other side or to drill deeper that desired, whereas the straight flute bit will only go as deep as you push. Any other reasons, or thoughts.


----------



## Brit

Fantastic job Don. Nice to see they all found a good home.


----------



## shampeon

That came out very nice, Don. Maybe just 3 drops for the next restore?


----------



## CFrye

Nicely done, Don K! Thanks for the info on straight vs twist bits. I wondered about it when looking at them in the shop then *SQUIRREL* forgot to ask when I got to a computer.


----------



## Lazyman

Looks nice, Don. I am surprised it took that much dye for an oz of DNA. I've overshot my color target with just a couple of drops and had to add more DNA (not the blood kind  to fix it.


----------



## DLK

Well I don't really have a clue when it comes to finishing.


----------



## DLK

> Nicely done, Don K! Thanks for the info on straight vs twist bits. I wondered about it when looking at them in the shop then *SQUIRREL* forgot to ask when I got to a computer.
> 
> - CFrye


 Thanks Candy, but I am not an authority it just my take, and moreover my proof reading is not so good. I meant to write: And the answer I think is control. The twist bit will draw down into the wood and it* is easy* to lose control and punch out he other side or to drill deeper* than* desired, whereas the straight flute bit will only go as deep as you push.


----------



## Brit

I just spent 5 hours putting a new handle on an Elwell No.6 felling axe. Those things are so heavy. I picked up the head a couple of years ago and I've had the handle for about 6 months to make sure it wasn't going to warp as it dried out. Never put a handle on an axe before and I had to pick this mother as my first. It turned out ok in the end though. I'll share some picks tomorrow. I bought it as a wall hanger, 'cause I'm certainly not man enough to swing it.


----------



## bandit571

Hmmm..


















From about a year ago…Dayton pattern…the before..( handle had more cracks than a city sidewalk)









Tip: Use a piece of glass to fine tune the handle's fit..









$1 for the old ax…$9.95 for the handle…


----------



## Krystoph

That is one fine looking plane you have there. As a beginner "woodworker" I've invested more time learning how to tune up the old used equipment I purchase than actually building anything.
What did you use for removal and cleaning? With a few more descriptive words and pictures, your restorations post could have easily been a tutorial for the few of us who don't have real experience.
Restored an old 13" drill press not too long ago (more of a cleaning than a resto). Turned an old Craftsman-Seeley 10" Table Saw into a welding/brazing table and used the wings and fence as the base for the drill press table.
Next move is a 50s Craftsman Jointer and would love to see it get close to the level of perfect that you have here  any advice on what to use or certain techniques or anything at all?


----------



## DLK

^ who are you addressing?


----------



## Brit

Looks good Bandit.


----------



## Brit

Here's the Elwell 6 axe I re-hung the other day, made in 1955. Weight of the head is around 6 1/4 pounds and 10" long. The length of the bite is 5 1/2". Handle is made from American Hickory and I cut the wedge from an offcut of an old Oak kitchen worktop. Wedge goes in about 2 1/4". Finish is 5 coats of raw linseed oil followed by 1 coat of Regal Red Peacock Oil, followed by 4 coats of Antique Honey Peacock Oil. Over time it will turn a lovely golden brown.














































Looking down the bite, showing the alignment with the handle.










*"Honey I'm ho-ome!"*


----------



## Brit

According to The Axe & Edge Tool Co. on Facebook:

"Elwell 6 and 7 Rounding pattern hung traditionally high on the shoulder to support the weighty heads.
Although sometimes referred to as Welsh or English Felling pattern it would be a mistake to think they were designed for dropping trees. Rounding is removing the flared buttress around the base of a tree to maximise the timber stock when felling. In the UK we fell at ground level to leave as little stump as is possible. We are an island with limited timber stock so all available timber is a premium. Our wildwoods were pretty much cleared by the time the Romans arrived.

Rounding axes were used in a similar fashion to splitting, striking down into the buttress to square off the base. Tough work. However hedgelayers have also used these axes for tackling big pleachers before chainsaws were common."


----------



## HokieKen

That thing's a hoss Andy! The handle is gorgeous. Just begging to be touched


----------



## Lazyman

Heeerrree's Johnny!


----------



## miketo

Andy, not quite sure what you're happier about-finishing up such a beauty, or getting ready to use it on someone.


----------



## Brit

Mike, it is as much as I can do to lift the damn thing, let alone swing it. They used these back in the days when men were men and the sheep went around in pairs for protection. LOL.


----------



## theoldfart

Wow, a real picture of Andy!
Serious axe Andy, perfectly done.


----------



## DLK

When I was younger, much younger, I could hold a fence post with one hand and swing a 20 lb maul with the other and drive the post in. Now I am happy if I can drag the maul behind me. LOL


----------



## bandit571

Makes my 3 pound Dayton Pattern Collins look like a hatchet…


----------



## Brit

That's funny Don.

Bandit - At least you can use yours. I could probably use mine in the manner described above, but I only have two trees left in my garden now and they're staying for the moment at least.


----------



## summerfi

Had to look up pleacher, Andy. That's a beautiful axe. Well done.


----------



## Brit

Thanks Bob. I looked it up to confirm my understanding was correct too Bob. Happy to say it was. Not a word you hear everyday, but I kind of like it.

I love old films showing old crafts and here's one from 1942 that shows the art of hedgelaying. What a different world it was back then.


----------



## Karda

Hi I just bought my first stanley hand plane, a late model #3 didn't take long to clean it up. Any suggestion on cleaning the tote and saving the finish. 1st 2 pics before next 3 are after


----------



## HokieKen

Nice shine on that smoother! You might be able to scrub the wood bits down with some lacquer thinner to remove those white spots. Short of that, grab some sandpaper and a comfy chair…


----------



## Karda

ok Ken I" try that. Any Idea as to age I know it is a later model it also has the kidney shaped slot in thew lever cap, I already hate those things


----------



## HokieKen

Nope. I don't have many Stanleys so I've never really delved into the type studies. I'm certain someone will be along shortly that can tell you though.


----------



## KentInOttawa

Karda - my first guess would be a Type 19. See here and here


----------



## bandit571

Might be closer to a Type 15….


----------



## Karda

thanks for the links kent most thing indicate type 12 but a few don't, there are no patent dates any where and the bailey 3# is backwards. #3 is in front of the knob and bailey is in back. In dons page it is opposite. has a logo on the leaver cap and know sweat heart cutter. How did you find the page from dons site, if I close it I won't be able to find it again, I can't find anything in his site, links always lead to something different


----------



## KentInOttawa

The blade is a later Type 19/20 blade (rounded top) and the sides appeared more flat & thicker to me, so I went with the Type 19. The keyhole cap, the ogee on the frog and the knurling on the depth adjuster will be the same for Types 15, 16, 19, 20 and some 17s. The text is vertical on your lateral adjuster, which is on some 18s and 19s and on all 20s.

The only way to tell is to take off the frog and look at the base casting. Is it like a Type 17 or a Type 19? Remember also that Stanley didn't produce Types, they made planes. Between that and user-made parts swaps (almost) anything is possible.


----------



## Karda

thanks for the type links, it is a type 19 everything fits thanks


----------



## Brit

Cleaned up Marples ring plated gauge yesterday. Didn't take much.

Before:




























After:


----------



## DLK

Very nice.


----------



## HokieKen

That is sexy Andy! Looks like brand new )


----------



## Karda

!

Hi. I have an old framing square and i want to derust it but not ruin the age. the rust isn't caked but it is getting thick how can I use a deruster like vinegar if I can't immerse it and to just spray it don't work because the vinegar drys before it does anything


----------



## Timbo

Karda - I have had good luck with Boeshield RustFree Rust and Stain Remover


----------



## Karda

ok


----------



## shampeon

Soak some rags in vinegar/citric acid/Evaporust then wrap the square with it, and then wrap it all with plastic wrap. Note you're still going to have to scrub away the black converted rust with this method.

Or probably better, get some Barkeeper's Friend and a scrub sponge, make a paste with the BKF and some water, and scrub away. It should brighten the steel too, and BKK is not abrasive. Use a light touch if you're using a Scotchbrite sponge.


----------



## Karda

thanks i never thought of wrapping in plastic


----------



## HokieKen

+1 for Barkeeper's Friend.

Phosphoric acid will convert the rust too if you want to soak it but won't erode the metal. It won't remove any patina but it will darken areas that have deeper rust so it's not my favorite for things I need to read like your square. BKF has an oxalic acid which can actually lighten the color of metals but in my experience it doesn't really remove patina. I'd test on a small area first though to be sure it doesn't make it "too clean" for what you want.


----------



## NVHunter

Stanley No 5


----------



## Karda

ok thanks


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

+1 Barkeeper's Friend as well.


----------



## BrentParkin

Had a pair of beat up Disston D4's given to me. Without apple to create replacement handles, I tried some Manitoba maple which turned out spectacular. Next up, new teeth. Then on to the second of the two saws.


----------



## CFrye

Brent, that handle is on fire!


----------



## bandit571

Picked this morning at a yard sale…









And cleaned up this afternoon..








From Newark NJ, USA.


----------



## Brit

Cleaned up a few bits and bobs last night.










The turnscrew third from bottom looked like someone's dog had got ahold of it.


----------



## BlasterStumps

Good job on those screwdrivers and bit holders. Look amazing. What was chewing on the one in that last picture? Looks like someone kept it too close to the teeth a big old rip saw.

Andy, I don't know what part of the UK you are in but was wondering if you know of a tool distributor over there for Wabeco drill stands.


----------



## Brit

I found these guys: https://www.emcomachinetools.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=250


----------



## HokieKen

Beautiful lineup Andy! You need to crosspost over to the Screwdriver of your Dreams thread ;-) What are the top 3 with the collet-type holders? Are those pin vises or do they hold flat blades? I really like the look of those A LOT so more info please )

Those Wabeco drill stands look like a nice bit of kit Mike! Never seen those before. Seem really affordable for all the capability they appear to offer too. Assuming you can get one without shipping being a deal breaker of course…


----------



## BlasterStumps

Thank you Andy. 


> I found these guys: https://www.emcomachinetools.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=250
> 
> - Brit


----------



## BlasterStumps

Ken, yes, from the info I have found on them I understand that they are a good product. I'm sure shipping will be a bit if you can find a company that will ship to us over here.


----------



## Brit

Kenny - They are used to hold needle files. The three on the left in the photo are modern equivalents that I bought not too long ago. I prefer the vintage ones though.


----------



## HokieKen

Very cool Andy. Don't know that I've ever seen holders for needle files but I'm absolutely certain that I've been missing out on something I desperately need for all these years!


----------



## DLK

Did you fill the the dog chew marks on turnscrew third from bottom or just reshape the handle?
(If you did fill what did you fill with?) Looks great!


----------



## Brit

I reshaped it Don with a 2nd cut file, then dyed it and then gave it a couple of coats of wipe on satin poly, then gave it a couple of coats of wax.


----------



## DLK

Thanks for the info, Andy. It looks good.


----------



## sansoo22

Don K - On smaller nicks and dings in tool handles I've had really good luck filling with Loc-Tite gel super glue. It has to be the gel kind which is the bottle with the blue tip.

Might sound strange but it works and it sands smooth. On darker woods like rosewood or dyed beech its barely noticeable. I've even used it to repair some nicks in the edges of plane totes. It might take a few applications to build when doing edges tho.


----------



## DLK

*sansoo22*: that is interesting, I may try it.


----------



## theoldfart

Andy, I doth covet thine fine needle file handles. Didn't know they existed.


----------



## DaveM123

Comment deleted


----------



## sansoo22

> *sansoo22*: that is interesting, I may try it.
> 
> - Combo Prof


I just so happen to have some pics of a no 3 plane tote i've been using my glue trick on.

We start with this









Do some sanding, clean with mineral spirits, and apply some of this









Some more sanding and cleaning and we get this









Took two applications of the gel glue to build up the correct profile for the rear of the tote but like i said most ppl cant find the repair. This is one of my trade secrets and for 19 payments of a low low 19.99 each i will reveal the rest…not really but i do hope my little trick helps someone out


----------



## HokieKen

I keep that exact glue on hand for filling cracks and "oopsies" on turnings Sansoo. I like it's gap-filling capability. For some reason, I've never thought to build it up and shape it. I have a screwdriver handle that will make a great guinea pig though  Thanks for the tip!


----------



## DLK

I have a ladle I carved that has a crack in the bowl. I can I fill with gel superglue? Epoxy? What is food safe.


----------



## Karda

i use super glue on my bowls, epoxy if the cracks are to big. you don't want to eat glue but when it is dry its probably as safe as the plastic dishes you buy in the store or the plastic utensils in the fast food joints


----------



## HokieKen

> I have a ladle I carved that has a crack in the bowl. I can I fill with gel superglue? Epoxy? What is food safe.
> 
> - Combo Prof


When I make stuff "food-safe" for other people, I use Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast. It's a two-part epoxy resin that is certified FDA compliant for direct food contact. When I make stuff "food-safe" for me, I'll use most any epoxy or CA glue. When fully cured, I believe they are all food safe. But certification for FDA compliance is prohibitively expensive so most manufacturers simply don't do it.

So, yeah, I would fill it with super glue if it were for myself Don.


----------



## DLK

Thanks all for the glue info.


----------



## DoctorHandtool

That one was yesterday Millers falls no.8 (no.3) I still have 5 more Stanley and Sargent to do . Sharpening is what takes me the longest I have an ultimate plane restroom center set up in my garage. The most I've done in a day bench planes up to. No.6 is 14 sometimes I'm out in the shop until midnight.LoL


----------



## HokieKen

Nicely done Dr!


----------



## sansoo22

> Nicely done Dr!
> 
> - HokieKen


Don't listen to Ken he'd be happy with the before version because it says Miller Falls 

In all seriousness though nice work. A Miller Falls properly cleaned and polished is a thing of beauty. Should not have sold the one that I restored.


----------



## sansoo22

I actually managed to catch the elusive before shot of a Type 10 No 7 ive had under the band saw for almost a year I think.

The brothers Darryl and Darryl









Had to strip this one down naked but here it is









ooooh…shiny









I think it works ok


----------



## corelz125

The 81 is photo bombing the one pic


----------



## sansoo22

> The 81 is photo bombing the one pic
> 
> - corelz125


That's because I have too many and they just randomly show up in weird places


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Very nice work on the plane refurbs!


----------



## Karda

Hi, this isn't a plane but its my grandfathers tri square I remember this square from when I was a kid. The way grandpa treated it, it seemed like it was magic. This square must be 60 + years old, it is a Stanley sweet heart. I don't have a before before I cleaned it up when I got it. when I started sanding last night I remembered to take pics. Any idea what the wood is, it is a light redish brown and very dark on the end grain.


----------



## theoldfart

Uh, sanded off the logo sticker?

Better hide it before Smiity finds out.


----------



## Karda

I know I oops on the one


----------



## theoldfart

That's ok, grandpa is smiling and that's what counts.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

I ain't smiling…

;-)


----------



## theoldfart

uh oh


----------



## bandit571

Might have this sharp enough…


----------



## Karda

the square ain't square. how can i square it


----------



## BillWhite

Judicious use of a file will square it up. Be sure to square both edges of the blade to the INSIDE (metal face) of the body.


> the square ain t square. how can i square it
> 
> - Karda


----------



## theoldfart

Bill, would checking for a tight fit on the blade first be a good idea?


----------



## Karda

I'll check fit but it feels tight, I have another one that may be loose, the brasss washer on one side is missing and there is nothing to clamp on the wood just bare pins


----------



## sansoo22

Type 15 No 4c with some of the orange frog left on it. Was in pretty sad shape when I got it. I was a little worried about serious pitting in the toe.


















Didn't turn out too bad I don't think. Probably won't do satin handles again though. I think semi gloss would have looked better.

















The pitting I was worried about came out just fine.


















Finally going back to work making tissue paper out of some pine.


----------



## bandit571

Before….









Red Head Mfg Co. of New York….No. 110









Chuck was junk…had to replace it….and a bit of paint, here and there…








And a few dabs of 3in1 oil as needed…









Freed up the knob on the crank so it would spin…Top knob looked great..









Didn't have any drill points in it, though…


----------



## Karda

Hi,I found an old stanley brace, it is rough but not to bad, I took of the chuck and put in evaporust that is the worst part. the ratchet work but is rough its more corrosion tha rust how can i clean up the part that can't be disassembled thanks Mike


----------



## shampeon

3 in 1 or other light cleaning oil flooded in the ratchet overnight, wipe away the excess in the morning. And then do it again.


----------



## HokieKen

> 3 in 1 or other light cleaning oil flooded in the ratchet overnight, wipe away the excess in the morning. And then do it again.
> 
> - shampeon


+1


----------



## Karda

ok thanks I'll try that, or a general lubricant i have


----------



## Karda

I am restoring a Simmonds panel saw. When i took the handle off a chip fell out any way I can fill this so it don't look to bad. I tried Durham water putty but it fell out. Are there any sites I can look at to date this saw thanks Mike


----------



## Lazyman

If you can find the chip, I would glue it back in. That will look much better than a filler. In fact. I might square the hole with a chisel and glue in a piece of wood before I would use a a filler.


----------



## theoldfart

Karda, look here

I have a couple of Simonds pocket catalogues so post a couple of clear pics and I'll see if I can help.


----------



## DLK

> If you can find the chip, I would glue it back in. That will look much better than a filler. In fact. I might square the hole with a chisel and glue in a piece of wood before I would use a a filler.
> 
> - Lazyman


+1. Thats what I do. Square up the hole and fill with a new chip. Trying to match grain and color. Adding color if necessary and blending to match. It will look good if your are careful. Use apple if you can. I think thats what the handle is.


----------



## DLK

> If you can find the chip, I would glue it back in. That will look much better than a filler. In fact. I might square the hole with a chisel and glue in a piece of wood before I would use a a filler.
> 
> - Lazyman


+1. Thats what I do. Square up the hole and fill with a new chip. Trying to match grain and color. Adding color if necessary and blending to match. It will look good if your are careful. Use apple if you can. I think thats what the handle is.


----------



## Karda

I don't have any hardwood much less apple so I think I will leave it as is. Here are the pictures thay are the best I can do under the conditions. The etch is as good as I can get it, I think if I work on it more I will ruin it


----------



## HokieKen

Karda, if you want a little piece of Apple to try to repair it, shoot me your mailing address.


----------



## theoldfart

Karda, the model number on Simonds is just under the etch. It looks like yours is worn off.
This is one of mine










Company coming soon so I'll look at my saws and catalogue this evening and see if I can narrow down yours.


----------



## theoldfart

Karda, I'm guessing you have a No. 10. Here are the two I have, the lower one is an early one. The upper one looks similar to yours.










Etch from the older saw









Etch from the newer saw










Hope this helps.


----------



## Karda

thank for the link and the pictures, I checked my saw and there isn't even a hint of a number where you said, I must have killed it. The saws you show look like 26" saw mine is 20" does that matter in the numbering system Thanks Mike


----------



## theoldfart

Mike, most saw manufacturers made their saw models in multiple sizes. The only change was to reduce the number of screws for the panel sizes. This is a 1923 catalogue page for the 10 and 10 1/2, the 10 1/2 is a skew back version.


----------



## Karda

thanks for the information, for some reason i am not being notified when i get a reply


----------



## Karda

Its time for the long awaited restoration reveal, th brace not the saw. I picked up this Stanley #945 10" brace at an estate sale, it was in pretty good shape. I dunked the ratchet end in evaporust. That cleaned things up nice. I cleaned the crank, not to rusty.Most of the work was on the wood, most of the handle paint was worn off so that sanded up nicely, I'll show a picture of it what kind of hard wood is it. Next the round pad, the paint was not worn and was a nightmare to get off and i can get it all, it realy stains the wood. I finished with BLO then a mixture of BLO + paste wax.


----------



## bandit571

An Estate Sale find, this morning….the before…









6 pc set, 3/8" drive, T-40 to T-60…a bit rusty?
And the after..









Might come in handy?


----------



## corelz125

Those things always come in handy


----------



## sansoo22

A Lion Miter Trimmer I picked up last year. Finally got around to restoring it the last couple weeks. I went with a lighter grey because I really like the Dupli-Color ceramic engine paints and I couldn't find a good match. One of the blades still needs a bit of work. You can tell where it was used repeatedly in the same spot. I need to grind it down a bit more to get past that spot. Other than that it's a great little trimmer and very accurate.


----------



## 33706

Love those Lion Trimmers! They have quite a history, and I'm really glad to have them. They've taken over most of the work that I used to do with a chute board. Mine are a Lion, a "Pootatuck" and a Lee Valley model. All good!


----------



## theoldfart

PK, I thought the Lion was a Pootatuck?


----------



## sansoo22

> Love those Lion Trimmers! They have quite a history, and I m really glad to have them. They ve taken over most of the work that I used to do with a chute board. Mine are a Lion, a "Pootatuck" and a Lee Valley model. All good!
> 
> - poopiekat


I can see it mostly retiring the shooting board. I'm not real sure how the blades on these are supposed to be sharpened. I read they were originally hollow ground but sometime in the past the set I have were flat ground. I've got them sharp enough to shave hair so I think that should work.


----------



## 33706

> PK, I thought the Lion was a Pootatuck?
> 
> - theoldfart


As I see it, all Pootatucks are Lions, but not all Lions are Pootatucks. Some Lions were made in a foundry elsewhere in Connecticut, with another name, but it may have actually been the same foundry with a new name. There are Lions out there with no foundry info cast into them.

I saw one at an antiques show with the Pootatuck name on it, but it was cast supposedly at the Pootatuck foundry in upstate NH. Just one of a handful of items over the years that I kick myself for not buying!

Somebody will go to Wiki and correct me, I'm speaking from my own recollections. I'm not Lion.


----------



## 33706

*Sansoo:* The blades are the one item I'd bring to a professional Sawblade sharpener guy. There's one in walking distance from me, and he's been in business for over 50 years. He routinely does planer knives, etc, and he can do any setup for specific jobs. Is there much value in a hollow ground Lion cutter?


----------



## sansoo22

Mine is stamped "Lion Machine Co, Bridgeport Conn" on the left ear/wing. I tried tracking down when it was possibly made and gave up after finding out Lion, Pootatuck, and Dosch were all involved with the patents at likely the same time it seems.

Edit: Hit post too soon. I don't see much value in a hollow grind just repeating what I read on the interwebs. I know a guy that does saws but not sure he does planer knives. I will give him a ring tomorrow and find out.


----------



## 33706

Good to know, Sansoo!
Tomorrow I'll put together a family shot and see what info has escaped me.


----------



## bandit571

While I don't get mine as shiny as others do….
The Before..









Craftsman Jack plane…









And labels..









Ok..and the After…









Once I got the iron nice and sharp ( rest of the plane was upstairs) I used another Sargent jack plane to see IF the iron was sharp enough..









Sargent 414c ($40..) So, now I have a pair of Sargent jack planes, and one is a "c" model. The craftsman is a smooth sole model…


----------



## Brit

Very nice Bandit. Another plane lives for another generation to enjoy.


----------



## Karda

Here is another installment of my saw restoration. ken sent me some apple so i cut a chip and epoxied it in and sanded down still looks like a patch but better than wood filler. could i cut a grove in the glue line on the sides of the patch and fill with ca and sanding dust from the handle. question what should I do with the chip in back of the hole, in previous picture it was white because of water putty it fell out, could I use CA and sanding dust thanks Mike


----------



## Lazyman

The wood patch will darken with age. You can try setting it in a sunny window for a couple of days to speed up the aging process. As long as it doesn't affect the nut/bolt from tightening down, I am not sure I would mess with the small chip out on the other side, except maybe to sand it smooth.


----------



## sansoo22

I use Loctite gel super glue to fill little marks like that in handles. It most likely won't blend in 100% on a light wood. One something like Rosewood its near impossible to see the fill.


----------



## HokieKen

I'd mix some saw dust with some yellow glue to make your own putty to fill those other little spots Mike. Like Nathan said, eventually that patch will darken up. Sunlight will speed it along. You can also mix some dark stain into some BLO and let it soak some up.

If it were me though, I'd just leave it and let it darken naturally.


----------



## Karda

thanks for the ideas, I can let it darken naturally, the saw is not even sharpened yet. I will finish the handle with BLO the paste wax. Thanks


----------



## Lazyman

My fear is that if you make a putty with glue and sawdust, it'll be more obvious than if you do nothing. I've never had any luck with that anyway. I always regret it when I do it.


----------



## Karda

yea I forgot that, I did CA+dust and got a dark spot not to bad but it would have been better if I had left it alone


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Not a restoration in the typical sense, more like a rebuild. Here's what I started with.









Needed proper lever cap and brass knob. I had some non-proper parts to use while I scoured the 'net for righteous parts.










And after a 10-day journey from CA., the cap arrived today.


----------



## sansoo22

A Type 18 #5 that was a diamond in the rough









All shined up and feeling like the bell of the ball. The handles were completely redone but the rest of the finishes are original.









Taking shavings again. Not too bad for a 70+ year old plane I'd say.


----------



## Karda

i am working on the Stanley defiance I ought for parts. The tote is in great shape except for some paint, the logo is almost perfect but for the paint. How can I clean this without ruining the original finish and signature. thanks


----------



## 33706

> Taking shavings again. Not too bad for a 70+ year old plane I d say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - sansoo22


Nice work, *Sansoo!*


----------



## bandit571

> i am working on the Stanley defiance I ought for parts. The tote is in great shape except for some paint, the logo is almost perfect but for the paint. How can I clean this without ruining the original finish and signature. thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Single edge razor blade, and just scrape away the paint…Happen to have such a handle…sans any paint, been meaning to infill the logo with white "scratch repair" paint pen…
> - Karda


----------



## DLK

> i am working on the Stanley defiance I ought for parts. The tote is in great shape except for some paint, the logo is almost perfect but for the paint. How can I clean this without ruining the original finish and signature. thanks
> 
> - Karda


turtle wax rubbing compound and maroon scotchpad


----------



## Karda

ok thanks. I have both


----------



## Karda

here is a Stanley Defiance frog I cleaned up but the lateral adjuster is frozen I tried wd40 and that won't loosen it any ideas how and can get to work again thanks


----------



## bandit571

PBBlaster…let it soak a while….


----------



## bandit571

Must be Friday Night Spam….


----------



## sansoo22

^^^ Flagged Ted again. Its like playing whack-a-mole with this jack ass


----------



## theoldfart

^ Flagged this dirt bag over in another thread.


----------



## Karda

flag him here as well I did


----------



## Karda

I have another serious pain. i am refinishing the knob for another plane. I want to use BLO+beeswax but I got off the finish but under the finish is an ugly purple stain. i have found this on other plane handles and it is very hard to get out, sanding and a wire wheel don't do much. Will i be able to get this out or should I just paint it. The stain is the worst on the end grain thanks


----------



## bandit571

Welcome to the Defiance by Stanley world….you'll find that the "red stain" is all the way through the wood….

Give it a Mahogany stain, buff it out…then the finish of your choice…


----------



## Karda

ok thanks thats what i was afraid of, I,ll spray paint it to match the tote. I had to spay it and the original knob because I couldn't get the stain out. That was a MF 814 its a Vline plane same as A #5


----------



## Timbo

Just a Stanley 101

Before:


















After:



























Next to its big brother a 60 1/2


----------



## corelz125

Tim you did all the engraving yourself?


----------



## Karda

thats a cute little plane


----------



## Timbo

corelz125, engraving was done by Mark Thomas from Dayton Va.


----------



## corelz125

Nice work


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Very nice, Tim! Both of them!


----------



## bandit571

A D8 Rip saw came home with me, after an Estate Sale a while back…paid a dollar bill for it..The Before..









and..









And…









Stamp says 5-1/2…
Today, while waiting on some paint to dry..









Decided to clean this old saw up…









Fully readable etch, too..









Scraped away a few paint spots…220 LIGHT sanding….oil finish. Brass shined up..









Screws were clocked just like I found them…









8 strokes…I do not think it will need sharpened. Tooth line does have a slight curve (breasted?) to it..









Compare to the D-115…saw plate is 28" long. 
A $1 rip saw? I think it just might do…


----------



## Karda

nice saw good job on thew clean up


----------



## Brit

Great job Tim and Bandit. Beautiful restorations.


----------



## CFrye

Tim, that is awesome! How's retirement treating you?
Bandit, nicely done on that thumbie!


----------



## HokieKen

I still need to lap the sole and wax the wood if the finish ever fully cures in this humidity but it's good enough to show. Millers Falls 22C. This one wraps up my user stable of MF bench planes 

*Before*:



























*After*:


----------



## DLK

Good job Kenny. Makes me rethink painting. I stopped re-painting as it's unnecessary to get a good working plane.
But I do have a bedrock that someone repainted freaking gold, just to drive me crazy, me thinks.


----------



## HokieKen

Thanks Don. I don't always repaint but this one was pretty bad in spots. I actually didn't strip the old enamel, just scrubbed all the loose bits away and sprayed a couple of coats over top of what was there. I don't know how it will hold up long term but so far, so good! The frog and lever cap got the full treatment though. I like the red to be purdy ;-)


----------



## sansoo22

That is a one sexy MF plane you got there Ken. Did you use Dupli-Color engine enamel on it? If so that stuff sticks to just about anything. You can bake it as well if you're worried about it. I bake a lot of my planes I restore. The ceramic enamel becomes one heck of a durable finish after that.


----------



## HokieKen

Yep, it's duplicolor. I've never had any problems with it being durable but this is the first time I've just sprayed it over the original finish to fill in missing sections. I don't expect any issues but won't be stumped if any arise either. I've never baked the enamel on but I still have a couple of planes in queue that will get painted. I may try it on one of those to see if I notice any difference.


----------



## HokieKen

double post


----------



## MNclone

Has anyone seen issues with Duplicolor cracking and chipping? I've got a couple that I had to paint again because of it.


----------



## HokieKen

I've never had any issues with duplicolor as long as I follow directions about wait times between coats. The first time I used it, I didn't read directions and waited too long between coats and had cracking. Never had problems with chipping. Are you priming before using the duplicolor?


----------



## DLK

*Sansoo* tell me more about baking planes.


----------



## MNclone

No, I don't prime first. Perhaps it was a timing thing


----------



## corelz125

Don K they come out soft and chewy. I have baked a few because I used VHT enamel and in the directions it says you need to bake them. The VHT is a little tricky to use. I use the lowest setting on my oven and let them bake for the recommended time then let them cool slowly. I didn't have any issues with any odor lingering in the oven either.


----------



## sansoo22

How I paint a plain in a nutshell.

1. strip it nekked with klean strip and wire bruses
2. Clean it with brake parts cleaner until no more grey junk comes off on the towel
3. Tape it up
4. Wipe it down with Acetone because I most likely touched it somewhere
5. Completely ignore the directions on the spray can (do this at your own risk)
6. Spray with Dupli Color ford semi gloss black
7. Let plane sit for 24 hrs after last coat
8. Carefully remove tape unless you used high temp tape. Enamel can be sensitive to fingernails at this stage
9. Bake at 160 on middle rack for one hour
10. Remove plane and let cool to room temp
11. Bake at 200 on middle rack for one hour
12. Remove and let cool
13. Celebrate successfully baking a plane in the oven

The 24 hour wait is CRUCIAL or you risk the paint wrinkling. Learned that the hard way.

I have used VHT twice and did not care for the outcome either time. It got too thick on me both times I've tried it. I've got Dupli-Color down to like a science now so that is my go to paint.


----------



## MNclone

I might have baked too early. I painted them a few years back and don't recall my exact process.


----------



## corelz125

A few that got baked.


----------



## DLK

*sansoo* Thanks. I will have to give it a try.


----------



## Lazyman

I don't think our oven can be set below 200°. I'd probably just skip steps 1-12. Step 13 sounds good though.


----------



## sansoo22

> I don t think our oven can be set below 200°. I d probably just skip steps 1-12. Step 13 sounds good though.
> 
> - Lazyman


Maybe you need an old oven to properly bake old planes?









Came with the house and everything still works except the timer. I can slow roast a rotisserie chicken or bake planes in it.


----------



## DLK

A toaster oven would work I think, but largest can hold a 13" pizza, so I think you can get 18" on the diagonal. So maybe a size 6 plane would fit but not a size 7 or 8.


----------



## Lazyman

I saw an old oven sitting in the alley a few weeks ago waiting for bulk trash pickup a few weeks ago. They were doing a kitchen renovation so I'll bet it still worked. I briefly thought about getting it to use in the shop, but I doubt that I could have crammed it in there.

BTW, the light in our oven is a halogen bulb and if you just turn it on with the door closed, the oven easily gets up to to 150°. You could probably just make an insulated box with a thermostat to do this.


----------



## KentInOttawa

> BTW, the light in our oven is a halogen bulb and if you just turn it on with the door closed, the oven easily gets up to to 150°. You could probably just make an insulated box with a thermostat to do this.
> 
> - Lazyman


I was contemplating doing something similar with a thermostat and an old, unserviceable fridge (an insulated box) to keep the liquids from freezing in the shop over winter. Just set the thermostat to 40-50 F(5-10C) and Bob's your uncle.


----------



## bandit571

Picked a Framing square last spring at a yard sale….$1 or so….was a tad rusty..









Even after a hand rub with some 80 grit…









80 grit into the palm sander….both faces done, wiped down with a rag…then 220 grit, fresh "pad" for each leg, and each face…one full sheet










Getting there…wiped down after a bead of 3in1 oil was mooshed around..









Still a bit of rust down in the numbers…makes it easier to read them….









Looks a little better?
Suppose to be able to build a house, using just this square to lay out all the cuts….lengths and angles…
Might be a keeper…


----------



## Just_Iain

> Hi,I found an old stanley brace, it is rough but not to bad, I took of the chuck and put in evaporust that is the worst part. the ratchet work but is rough its more corrosion tha rust how can i clean up the part that can t be disassembled thanks Mike
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Karda


Karda,

Take a look at this: https://www.lumberjocks.com/Brit/blog/24957


----------



## sansoo22

A very sad looking Marsh M5C









A much happier looking Marsh M5C









Returned to its natural habitat making fluffy oak shavings


----------



## CFrye

Wow sansoo! Quite the transformation! What finish is on the wood?


----------



## sansoo22

> Wow sansoo! Quite the transformation! What finish is on the wood?
> 
> - CFrye


The finish is just an oil based wipe on poly. I clean the handles with denatured alcohol after sanding, then do a couple flood coats of oil based poly, then sand with 800 grit if needed, and finally spray one top coat of oil based poly to even everything out.


----------



## Karda

is that the natural color of the wood,looks brand new or maybe better than new. I have never seen a new one that was way before my time. You do fantastic work


----------



## corelz125

Keeping that one?


----------



## sansoo22

> is that the natural color of the wood,looks brand new or maybe better than new. I have never seen a new one that was way before my time. You do fantastic work
> 
> - Karda


Thank you. That is not quite the natural color. Stripped naked they are a bit lighter. The oil in the finish tends to darken them up some. Danish or boiled linseed oil will make the grain pop better but then you get a satin finish instead of the high gloss that I prefer. You could do a gloss shellac over oil which I have done in the past but its kind of time consuming in the summer humidity waiting for the oil to fully dry.



> Keeping that one?
> 
> - corelz125


This one will be a keeper. They were made in Rockford, IL where I was born so I kind of have a thing for Marsh planes now. I have an M4 to match it but I need a new tote and they are near impossible to find. A Stanley tote will fit and a type 6 is close to the same look but I can't seem to find one of those right now either. I think I have a spare type 9 tote for it so will most likely settle with that for the time being.


----------



## Karda

thanks for the link on brits brace restoration, it is amazing how much his brace resembles my Stanley


----------



## CO_Goose

Cleaned up a Stanley Sweetheart 9" square that I picked up a couple of years ago that looked like this:










After a couple of hours with sandpaper, metal polish, and a little finishing with BLO and Wax, it looks like this:










Sure is pretty rosewood.

Goose


----------



## Karda

nice I have one like that, not as nice


----------



## corelz125

Going to go for the full set of Marsh now? From what I have read they are good planes.


----------



## bandit571

Have to get a block plane to go along with the bench planes..




































Correct?


----------



## sansoo22

> Going to go for the full set of Marsh now? From what I have read they are good planes.
> 
> - corelz125


That is the plan if I can find them. The last one I saw on ebay was a M7 going for $220 on ebay. It was in need of restoration so priced about twice what I would consider paying if I have to put a weeks worth of work into it.

I do have family on my Mom's side that still live in Rockford. Maybe next time we go visit we can schedule it over the big Pecotonica Flea Market.



> Have to get a block plane to go along with the bench planes..
> 
> - bandit571


Wow! Nice block plane Bandit. That little guy is definitely on my list of planes to find.


----------



## corelz125

Yeah I haven't come across many of them. What's with the #8's on ebay lately I saw one go for over $300 and it wasn't even tuned.


----------



## sansoo22

> Yeah I haven t come across many of them. What s with the #8 s on ebay lately I saw one go for over $300 and it wasn t even tuned.
> 
> - corelz125


I have no clue. I'm kind of thinking of tossing my type 12 no 8 up on ebay. And maybe my type 10 no 7. I love the big planes but if I can make a chunk of change right now I might sell one of each. I splurged a little on an AR this month and for what jointers are selling for I could make half that back.


----------



## corelz125

If that's the only #8 you have I would hold onto it.


----------



## sansoo22

I currently have 3 of them. The type 12, a type 9 as my personal user, and a type 16 that still needs restored.


----------



## DLK

Does any recognize this tool mark? (Or knows where I can look for it.)










The bit under the SB looks under higher magnification like a shield with a dot in the center.

Is is on a perfect handle screwdriver.


----------



## bandit571

The "Fifty Cent Disston"...the Before..


















And the After..



























Has steel, nickel plated screw/bolts…









Didn't take all that long to do….


----------



## Karda

Hi, I got the handle off the saw I am restoring but the steel is actually flaking it is still solid but is there anything I should put on the rust to stop it thanks


----------



## bandit571

Oil….


----------



## Karda

ok thanks


----------



## ac0rn

Has anyone restored a Shelton hand plane? Pics? There is one on our local CL for 30., though I feel that would be too excessive. As it will need considerable work, I may offer half of that.


----------



## corelz125

Jeff, poopiecat is the resident Shelton guy. He knows all about them.


----------



## 33706

Thanks for the shout-out.
I'm intrigued by the Shelton planes, the original design was a great idea. Having a type of linear 'rack and pinion' method of raising and lowering the cutter is superior to a nub moving in an arc, hopefully staying engaged to the chipbreaker.

I have a bunch in my stable, one of which actually gets some use from time to time. Truth is, I've got planes I prefer more, and lately my 'Esteel' from Sweden is doing the heavy lifting for me when I need a #4 these days.

The Shelton deserves room on your shelf, but $30 is truly top-end pricing. Be sure that the prominent lateral lever in front of the frog is still there, they snap off easily. The later Sheltons had conventional lever caps like Stanley, etc, and I have one of those I paid $10 CDN, so about $7 US. Shop harder!

We had a mystifying discussion, Horizontal Mike and I, in our conflicting responses to a query regarding the thread pitch. Every one of his was different compared to every one of mine. So… be sure yours is complete and not needing replacement parts.


----------



## Brit

Don K - I looked for a couple of hours, but although I found other examples of the logo on perfect pattern screwdrivers, I was unable to determine what the letters stood for who made them. Sorry.


----------



## UpstateNYdude

> Does any recognize this tool mark? (Or knows where I can look for it.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bit under the SB looks under higher magnification like a shield with a dot in the center.
> 
> Is is on a perfect handle screwdriver.
> 
> - Combo Prof


That's Schubert


----------



## DLK

^ Thanks.


----------



## DLK

For some forums for example "State of The Shop Address 2" I am getting "application error" when I click on the link. Do we know what's going on?


----------



## CFrye

Don K I get that sometimes. Have no idea why. It goes away after a while. Irritating but not as much as being told my "IP address has been marked as SPAM" which also goes away, eventually.


----------



## DLK

I cleared my history. And all was good again.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Candy, you get this?

IP address has been marked as SPAM

I do on my phone, when it's not on some wifi network vs. att network. Frustrating.


----------



## DonBroussard

Smitty-I get the same thing (IP address has been marked as SPAM) when I try to log in outside of my WiFi's coverage area. I am guessing that's one of the techniques that LJ admins are using to block all the "Teds".


----------



## CFrye

Yes, Smitty. Mostly on the iPad (I think) and usually at home. I don't understand it. I just roll with it.


----------



## bandit571

That fifty cent saw…after a clean up.









The before…and..









The after…..the "before" 









And the after…









And during a test cut…









Disston D-8, 10ppi, 26" long….about a 1955 model….


----------



## HokieKen

> Candy, you get this?
> 
> IP address has been marked as SPAM
> 
> I do on my phone, when it's not on some wifi network vs. att network. Frustrating.
> 
> - Smitty_Cabinetshop


Ditto here. Best I can tell, this happens when you are signed in on one device, like a PC, and then try to sign in on a mobile device on an unsecure network. Normally, if I log out of LJs before I leave my wifi range, I can sign in on my phone on a cell network without a problem. It is sorta frustrating…


----------



## theoldfart

This is a Stanley #77 dowel machine i got from EBay today A little crusty.



















Turns out very little rust. Mostly saw dust and oil built up over time.The teeth on the gears were clogged and the shaft bound up as it turned. A couple hours worth of elbow grease, a little machine oil and it's back to good.



















There was some corrosion on the cutter head and the cutter itself needs attention. I'lll tackle that during the week since we're mostly house bound with all the smoke.


----------



## Lazyman

Nice Kevin. I think that I had that one on my watch list. Now you just have to spend a thousand bucks buying the cutters. ;-)


----------



## theoldfart

Thanks Nathan. i'm sticking with the one cutter for now. Should I have need of another hopefully the nutty market for them will have collapsed.


----------



## UpstateNYdude

Kevin how big is that holdfast in your bench? That thing looks huge in the pic, or is it just everything else around it is just that much smaller?


----------



## theoldfart

Nick, the holdfasts are from Blackbear forge. They make Phil Koontz's leaf design. They are 1" diameter.

https://blackbearforge.com/products/holdfasts/


----------



## UpstateNYdude

> Nick, the holdfasts are from Blackbear forge. They make Phil Koontz's leaf design. They are 1" diameter.
> 
> https://blackbearforge.com/products/holdfasts/
> 
> - theoldfart


LOL I have those exact ones as well, although mine may be 3/4"


----------



## duckmilk

Lol, I watch Black Bear Forge videos when they come up and made some holdfasts from his instruction.

Love the #77 Kev.


----------



## theoldfart

After honing on a Shapton 3,000 glass, the cutter is better.


----------



## CFrye

Nice Kevin!


----------



## DanKrager

OK. Now that you're hooked, you begin the struggle. I had to resist the urge to rip every board in the shop and make them all into dowels. Looks good, Kevin.

DanK


----------



## Mosquito

Kevin, when can I place my first order for dowels?


----------



## theoldfart

Dan, I may have ripped a few.

Thanks folks.


----------



## sansoo22

I REALLY want one of these. This weekend I was just working with some oak dowels and each had to be chucked into my cordless to sand them down to proper 3/8" diameter. Either my CMT forstner bit was wrong or the cheap home depot dowels were. I'm guessing the cheap dowels were off.


----------



## DLK

> Kevin, when can I place my first order for dowels?
> 
> - Mosquito


Seriously I will need some maple or other tight grained doweling of various widths say 3/8 to 2 inches to test the screw boxes I will restore this winter.


----------



## Lazyman

> Dan, I may have ripped a few.
> 
> Thanks folks.
> 
> - theoldfart


Did you blame it on the dog?


----------



## HokieKen

LOL )


----------



## theoldfart

The cat did it, honest.


----------



## ac0rn

Josh, this beats the drill press for sizing


----------



## sansoo22

Well great….now i have something else to add to my want list. That might be my first Lie-Nielsen product ever.


----------



## DanKrager

Kevin is busy. I made these dowel maker videos and posted links a long time ago, so the links are probably broken. Here's a new set of links that will work for a bit. There are five brief videos that I did not make into a long one.

One
Two
Three
Four
Five

Bonus: new toy with helical head on sale, reduced shipping planing a 15" dry osage orange (hedge) taking a full width cut at well under 70db with dust collector running. No noticeable chips escaping.

DanK


----------



## theoldfart

Dan, great videos. Thank you for posting them.


----------



## Brit

Thanks Dan.


----------



## DanKrager

Thanks. They are kinda like me….fuzzy and shaky.

DanK


----------



## HokieKen

Nice videos Dan, thanks for sharing  As cool as the dowel maker is, I'm a lot more jealous of the planer ;-)


----------



## DanKrager

Wrong thread to talk much about it, but yes, it's been a long time dream. It is a sweetheart and I really like the fixed table concept…outriggers don't need adjusting every cut. If I had this in the beginning, who knows what I could hear now without aids….

It's kinda an oxymoron to get this in the middle of streamlining, but the original plan was to replace the planer I sold. So there's that.

And I've kicked myself several times for not buying the odd size cutters for the 77, 7/16 and 9/16, on a "you suck" ebay price a while back.

DanK


----------



## DanKrager

And I would be remiss if I didn't enable someone else....

DanK


----------



## HokieKen

Unless you're gonna let me use your Paypal account, you ain't enabling me Dan ;-)


----------



## bandit571

Just a "before"..for now….









This is over 30 years old…way too small, as I have a boat load to add to it…









From 7/8" on down….Need to cobble a storage case….

Might take awhile….( at least there aren't any metric taps in there….)

Cardboard box has a big blue oval on the side….something about "made in Canada" and "FORD" 
EOTZ-7228-D
LEVER SOCKET SP
On one side..









Fix Or Repair Daily?


----------



## DLK

^ Found On Road Dead


----------



## bandit571

dad made a very going living…fixing them up, too….for other people…


----------



## Brit

> Unless you re gonna let me use your Paypal account, you ain t enabling me Dan ;-)
> 
> - HokieKen


I literally laughed out loud.


----------



## Brit

You're not enabling me either Dan with $45 dollars international shipping costs on top of whatever the auction ends at.

...and it has a chip out the casting. )


----------



## DanKrager

Well guys, I HAD to try, didn't I? 
DanK


----------



## theoldfart

Resistance is futile.


----------



## duckmilk

I want one, they are sexy and would be a lot of fun, but I don't foresee using it much. And I'm resisting the collector impulse, unlike someone I know that has a lot of miter boxes ;-P.


----------



## theoldfart

Hey, I only have one dowel machine.


----------



## duckmilk

I checked it out on ebay and there were 3 for sale that all had different size cutters. Maybe buy them all so you don't have to change cutters, just switch machines?


----------



## theoldfart

Duck, the standard cutter that they came with was a 3/8".


----------



## DLK

> I checked it out on ebay and there were 3 for sale that all had different size cutters. Maybe buy them all so you don t have to change cutters, just switch machines?
> 
> - duckmilk


That might be cheaper. ;-)


----------



## HorizontalMike

> Thanks for the shout-out.
> I m intrigued by the Shelton planes, the original design was a great idea. Having a type of linear rack and pinion method of raising and lowering the cutter is superior to a nub moving in an arc, hopefully staying engaged to the chipbreaker.
> I have a bunch in my stable, one of which actually gets some use from time to time. Truth is, I ve got planes I prefer more, and lately my Esteel from Sweden is doing the heavy lifting for me when I need a #4 these days.
> The Shelton deserves room on your shelf, but $30 is truly top-end pricing. Be sure that the prominent lateral lever in front of the frog is still there, they snap off easily. The later Sheltons had conventional lever caps like Stanley, etc, and I have one of those I paid $10 CDN, so about $7 US. Shop harder!
> 
> *We had a mystifying discussion, Horizontal Mike and I, in our conflicting responses to a query regarding the thread pitch. * Every one of his was different compared to every one of mine. So… be sure yours is complete and not needing replacement parts.
> - poopiekat


WOW! I find your assertion very interesting, especially since you and I have had NO interaction for at least 5-10yr in my recollection (maybe longer). PLEASE CLARIFY where and if I am incorrect/wrong about this individual situation about "Shelton" planes.

I have NEVER owned a Shelton Plane, so any discussion regarding "thread-pitch" of Shelton Planes seems rather, for lack of better words, impossible. As I have stated, show the links to your referenced discussions on LJs REGARDING SHELTON THREAD-PITCH, AND I WILL SURELY CORRECT THEM ACCORDINGLY.

Even more than that, SHOW ME ANY recent discussion regarding same, and I will either correct or rebut with factual data. And YES, you can even use 10-15yr old posts! Or even +20yr old threads/posts!


----------



## BlasterStumps

Here is my home made dowel plate. I use it over a dog hole. Only have used it a few times to make a few dowels out of matching type of wood.


----------



## 33706

> *We had a mystifying discussion, Horizontal Mike and I, in our conflicting responses to a query regarding the thread pitch. * Every one of his was different compared to every one of mine. So… be sure yours is complete and not needing replacement parts.
> - poopiekat
> 
> WOW! I find your assertion very interesting, especially since you and I have had NO interaction for at least 5-10yr in my recollection (maybe longer). PLEASE CLARIFY where and if I am incorrect/wrong about this individual situation about "Shelton" planes.
> 
> I have NEVER owned a Shelton Plane, so any discussion regarding "thread-pitch" of Shelton Planes seems rather, for lack of better words, impossible. As I have stated, show the links to your referenced discussions on LJs REGARDING SHELTON THREAD-PITCH, AND I WILL SURELY CORRECT THEM ACCORDINGLY.
> 
> Even more than that, SHOW ME ANY recent discussion regarding same, and I will either correct or rebut with factual data. And YES, you can even use 10-15yr old posts! Or even +20yr old threads/posts!
> 
> - HorizontalMike


This may be the link to the aforementioned thread:

https://www.lumberjocks.com/replies/on/8718338

From three years ago, when I responded to someone's query about fasteners used on a Shelton plane. Though time may have affected my memory of the discussion, I do recall that you participated in that forum, and the results of your research contradicted quite a bit from mine.

What I presented to 'OzDude' was info from several of my Shelton planes gathered from all four corners of the globe, and disassembled for measuring comparatively the thread pitch and other metrics. Everyone is free to draw their own conclusions, of course.


----------



## HorizontalMike

Hey thank you Poopiekat! 
I had forgotten all about that thread and all of the positive interaction/participation/problem-solving that that thread contained. I went back and thoroughly enjoyed the re-reading… and particularly Ozdude's creative DIY solution!

In the end, I think we all started to gain a greater understanding of the "then" beginnings of the standardization evolution regarding fasteners/screws and the like.


----------



## 33706

> Hey thank you Poopiekat!
> I had forgotten all about that thread and all of the positive interaction/participation/problem-solving that that thread contained. I went back and thoroughly enjoyed the re-reading… and particularly Ozdude s creative DIY solution!
> 
> - HorizontalMike


Oddly enough, HM, is that we're still mutually blocked since possibly 8-10 years ago, and I don't remember why.
Even through the Shelton conversation from 2017!


----------



## bandit571

The before..









No. 408c….









Sitting in the front…and..the After…









Has Sargent VBM in the lever cap, and a "8" under the cap…









handles now have an oil finish…









Parts as they were cleaned up…

Maybe HM will look it over…..seems to be from about 1917?


----------



## Karda

nice work


----------



## HorizontalMike

Corrected that on "my" end. ;-)



> ...Oddly enough, HM, is that we re still mutually blocked since possibly 8-10 years ago, and I don t remember why.
> Even through the Shelton conversation from 2017!
> - poopiekat


----------



## HorizontalMike

Bandit, I agree with your ~1917-ish date for your Type 4 #5408.

I think your tote and knob are later Type 4 style for this size plane. I am posting images of Types 2,4,5 408-5408 planes. Please ignore the three ZEBRAWOOD parts *;-)* , other than that the rest are OEM as best I can tell. Type 2 totes were a bit more upright, straighter and the upper tail clipped. Early Type 4s had some of these same traits and eventually the upper tail of the tote became more elongated. 
Other identifying features:

Flat Frog screw heads with washers
Steel adjuster knob (brass plated)
The obvious VBM cap





































FROM BANDIT571:


> The before..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No. 408c….
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sitting in the front…and..the After…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has Sargent VBM in the lever cap, and a "8" under the cap…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> handles now have an oil finish…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Parts as they were cleaned up…
> 
> Maybe HM will look it over…..seems to be from about 1917?
> 
> - bandit571


----------



## 33706

> Corrected that on "my" end. ;-)
> 
> ...Oddly enough, HM, is that we re still mutually blocked since possibly 8-10 years ago, and I don t remember why.
> Even through the Shelton conversation from 2017!
> - poopiekat
> 
> - HorizontalMike


Yep, same here. Back in the 'Miss Debbie P' days we would all fire shots across the bow at one another. Not so much nowadays.


----------



## bandit571

Ok..the "Before" again..









Yellow label Stanley No. 4, Type 20's turn….tore the thing down last night..









Then spent about 90 minutes today…









Flaky black paint was removed from the handles…









Everything cleaned up, sharpened, and mated together…









Test drive on Pine..and..









Ash….was hard to stop making shavings, actually…









Might just be a keeper?


----------



## tshiker

Nice job Bandit!


----------



## UpstateNYdude

So after buying this machine forever ago and working on it I'd say over the last 3 years I finally finished it…It's a Powermatic 1150 with variable speed via a reeves drive. I couldn't bring myself to powder coat it in green.

Started with this…









Ended up like this…



























The worst part is, now I found a bigger 20" drill press with a production table and have begun the tear down on that and repainting. My wife said I can't keep both so now I'm selling this one…It feels like I have to give up my dog after all this time. I have so much time and money invested in this thing I don't think if I listed it for $3k I could get back the time I put into it, even then that'd be like $10 an hour (yes I realize that's slow lol). Just hoping to recoup the costs of the new parts I had to buy for it.


----------



## HokieKen

That thing is a STUD Nick! Awesome work on it man. If you weren't so danged far away, I'd be very interested in buying it. Of course I'd have to immediately repaint it puke gold to match my table saw and my lathe…


----------



## UpstateNYdude

> That thing is a STUD Nick! Awesome work on it man. If you weren t so danged far away, I d be very interested in buying it. Of course I d have to immediately repaint it puke gold to match my table saw and my lathe…
> 
> - HokieKen


LOL Kenny, I was also not a fan of puke gold, black and gray are more my speed.


----------



## bandit571

The Before..









A Rusty & Krusty saw set….and…









After a little clean up..









Have no idea who made this saw set….


----------



## ac0rn

This no-name saw came from my Dad's chest. Thought it would give me pleasure to clean it up for use. Cleaned, jointed, sharpened, set, and oiled. Softened the horns, and handle edges. It did, and will give me pleasure.


----------



## SJThrasher

This cabinet scraper belonged to my great-grandfather. A couple of months ago, I was cleaning my garage and decided to clean out his old "too box" which was some 1/4" plywood nailed together with a rope for a handle. This was one of two Stanley tools that were in there. I have access to some polishing wheels and a sandblast cabinet. From what I can tell, because the copyright stamp on the retention plate predates (by a year or so) the copyright on the blade, this was made somewhere around 1918. It cleaned up pretty well except for the blade that has some pitting. I didn't have any small tools at the time and plan on using my Dremel to finish polishing the screws.


----------



## SJThrasher

And another one. This was a yard-sale find. Got this, a small ball peen hammer, and an awl for $10. It's a Stanley 60 1/2. Still have a little detailing to do. I popped the rivet for the tightening lever and will finish polishing in the tight areas then put it back together.


----------



## DLK

Nicey done, Jeff and Thraser.


----------



## theoldfart

There is no rust in this post, just dirt! We moved to our new home back in May of 2018. Moving the shop was, how shall I say this, a big pain the ass. Everything needed to be disassembled and packed securely. Among the disassembled stuff was a lot of my vintage if not antique wooden screw clamps . I'm finally putting them back together but not before cleaning. This is a partial before










one side vs the other



















Completed with the screws waxed as well










Handle detail










Just a few more to do.


----------



## DanKrager

I love those clamps Kevin. I found a 55 gal steel drum of red oak rafter cutoffs sitting under the eaves of a shed that was built from rough sawn red oak. Needless to say, those cutoffs were as black as coal all the way through from the chemical reaction. I made up one clamp with wooden threads complete with swivels to allow tapered clamping, but the construction was fragile and that clamp is a shelf resident. The rest were drilled to pass a 3/8" threaded rod and combined with quick acting 4 wing steel handles, they make very strong clamps with deep reach like yours. If I didn't make the swivels, they could be threaded for 3/4" and still work well. They are pretty with an oil and wax finish….look like ebony.

I'd get a picture but they are among the first to be packed.

DanK


----------



## DLK

Nice Kevin, what did you use to clean them? Turtle wax rubbing compound?

I have a box of wooden clamps to clean someday.

Dan K, sounds like interesting clamps or are they just Jorgensen clamps? Which you could post a picture.


----------



## theoldfart

Don, just wax, bronze wool and muscle. Some scraping with a razor blade and card scrapers. I have one more big mutha to go, looks like a vintage Moxon.


----------



## DLK

Sometimes I find the rubbing compound and maroon scotch pad method to work better.


----------



## bandit571

Bishop No. 10..the before..









and the after…









and..


















patent date on the handle









Will be trying to take it over to the sharpening service…and let Chuck re-tooth and then sharpen…


----------



## DanKrager

Sorry, Don. No pictures until next year! I thought I had a picture in the inventory file, but not.

DanK


----------



## Karda

I found this 24" panel in a junk shop. I don't need another cross cut but the handle fits my hand nice. I have small hands so some of them are too big to be comfortable. This ia a nine point, has no etch and no medallion. any idea what brans it may be, it is very much like my Simonds 9PPI here is a better pic of the handle


----------



## DLK

Here is a union factory toothing plane with a buck brothers iron I found for $2 at a garage sale yesterday, and cleaned up today. Works well. I've never had a toothing plane befor. Now I have to learn veneering.

*Befor:*










*After:*










*Stamp:*










*Iron:*










*Iron stamp:*(befor restoration)


----------



## DLK

These are three of about 30 planes I will be restoring soon. They were in the house when there was a fire about 30 years ago. After that, they were moved out to the shop where they remained in cold storage until found this year.










Today I finished restoring the sash plane as best I could.




























After an hour spent just getting it apart, I put another 7 hours in scrubbing with murphy's oil. Then there was some tuning to get the threaded rods to work, lubricating with paste wax, and polishing with Alfie shine.

If anyone has a good suggestion for removing soot from molding planes. Let me know.


----------



## BlasterStumps

Don, I probably would have taken most of it off with a very light planing.


----------



## DLK

*Blaster:*That's possible or maybe with a scraper. But the guys who collect and study wooden planes would give me grief. On the other hand it is a factory plane and not extremely valuable, so maybe planning or scraping is acceptable. Sanding is not so clear to me. I think the ends would lose the maker marks if I did this to the ends. Hence, I am first seeking other solutions. This was my first of many experiments.


----------



## BlasterStumps

Got a little side-tracked from getting my workshop put together with this jointer refurbish. A Boice-Crane 1400, 6" from probably the 50's. Looked to have been many years stashed away. I had to rob a motor from an old saw so that I could try it out. Works quite well. Thanks to Brad, I found new bearings for it. I sharpened and reinstalled the old blades. I plan to get a good switch and possibly another motor.


----------



## theoldfart

Mike, you definitely got around to looks on this one. Nicely done.


----------



## BlasterStumps

Thanks tof. I hauled away an old Craftsman RAS that a kind fellow gave me in order to get the metal stand. I took the stand all apart and rebuilt it for use with the jointer. I gave the RAS to another guy who said he was thinking of putting it on a bench.


----------



## theoldfart

Nothing thrown away, awesome.


----------



## DLK

Here is the restored groove plane. Before shot is in post 7245










I tried blasters suggestion to lightly plane the sides, but still it was darkly stained. To even out the coloring I did wipe with 50/50 BLO and MS, followed by a coat of shellac and alfie shine. It seems to work both cross grain and with grain. Was a tad tricky to set it to work cross grain. Needed to attach a batoon as a fence to get it to work.


----------



## bandit571

Found in a pink plastic tub, under a table….









and a view of the worst.
.








Supposed to be a Stanley No. 9-1/2 Block plane…









Cleaned up…was missing the iron…tuned up..









And taken for a test drive..


----------



## Karda

nice job


----------



## DLK

> Found in a pink plastic tub, under a table….
> 
> - bandit571


We have collected too many tools we find them in a pink plastic tub. LOL. I have several "tubs" to work my way through. Now that I am retired I can finally get to them. Probably enough to hold me for a couple of years.


----------



## CaptainKlutz

> Found in a pink plastic tub, under a table….
> - bandit571
> 
> 
> 
> We have collected too many tools (when) we find them in a pink plastic tub. LOL.
> - Combo Prof
Click to expand...

+1
At least mine are clear totes? 
I have 3 plastic totes with 5-6 hand planes that need restoration work to return to service. 
I am retired and still they sit waiting. 
sigh


----------



## bandit571

It's in there…somewhere…









Have all the rest of these treasures cleaned up…


----------



## planepassion

I love the t-bar pipe handle on the leftside hand drill. A unique detail.


----------



## bandit571

The "Before" 









That $5 Jack plane in the background….Sears Craftsman by Millers Falls….handle out front wasn't any better than the tote…









So, cleaned things up, sharpened the iron..which left those ugly handles…









Replaced the knob with a new Rosewood one, added a rosewood wedge to the tote…and now the "After"..









Not too bad…for a $5 jack plane?


----------



## corelz125

That one was welded back together? Both sides or just the one?


----------



## bandit571

Both sides…










Took a while to get the sole flat…









What it looked like when I got it home…









One side looked worse, than the other one…









There is a blob on the inside of this cheek…









Started out to be just a parts plane…




































Just a Jack plane….


----------



## Karda

I have the same problem with saws, I will buy one for the screws and to make scrapers and restore it and make a handle


----------



## corelz125

Always hard to just get a plane for the parts. Once you take it apart it becomes this one is to good to toss half of it. I can make it work again. That seems to be the biggest challenge welding them back together to keep it flat and straight.


----------



## sansoo22

Just a rusty crusty Type 19 no 8 that was begging for some good lovin'









I loved this one long time to make it look as close to new as I possibly could.



























The 2×4 i was testing with was way to wavy to get some full length shavings without dulling the iron on its first test run but you have to love when a number 8 gets you some fluffly curls none the less.


----------



## Brit

Amazing work. Well done!


----------



## controlfreak

Meh, it looks okay


----------



## ac0rn

Sansoo, you sure make them look pretty.


----------



## sansoo22

> Sansoo, you sure make them look pretty.
> 
> - Jeff


Thanks. I enjoy using them much more when they are all gussied up. This one is in transit to a fellow LJ member so they can enjoy it.


----------



## Karda

speaking of pretty, I just bought a couple #4s and the wood need attention. The finish is a nice even cordovan color with no wear spots so i don't want to remove the finish. But there are chips in the finish some into the wood, How can I revitalize this finish thanks Mike


----------



## sansoo22

I've had limited success revitalizing handles so take my advice with a grain of salt.

Here goes:
1. I use mineral spirits to clean them.
2. Next is some naptha or lacquer thinner to smooth out the existing finish. For this step I make sure to use a microfiber towel and soak it well with whatever chemical im using. That stuff will turn the existing finish tacky and you want to be able to wipe it in a nice smooth motion. 
3. Then let them sit and repeat with the naptha/lacquer thinner if needed. 
4. I spray them with Shellac as a seal coat
5. Spray whatever finish you like after that. I prefer an oil based gloss poly
6. Wax them with Minwax special dark

Like I said that has given me limited success in the past. Anymore I just sand them down to bare wood and refinish them.


----------



## Karda

thanks, I'll see what happens if I do anything its a user and the finish is solid just not prety


----------



## adot45

Here is a Stanley 101 I just spotted when it was listed.



















Not much of a restoration, just a little clean up. I just love these little guys. I have a pile of em but I didn't have this one. It has the victory logo on it which thrilled me because I lean my preferences toward type 11 stuff.


----------



## Karda

cute


----------



## sansoo22

A $10 dollar plane missing a few bits. Not a big deal as I had those in my drawer for plane bits.









She shined up quite nicely


















And taking some pine shavings. Full width, full length, and transparent. Can't ask a plane to do much more than that.


----------



## ac0rn

Again, you do very fine work. How much time goes into this type of restoration?


----------



## HokieKen

Based on how long it takes me to do a plane and how much less shiny mine are, I'm gonna guess he's got 6 hours of hands-on time in a plane like that. Not including curing time for finish and enamel. He sure does make 'em pretty!


----------



## controlfreak

Another masterpiece!


----------



## sansoo22

Thanks for the kind words! And Ken you're right. Its about 5 or 6 hours of hands on time in each one. I try not to think about the time involved too much. If I did I'd have to admit that I'm probably losing money on them.

I know some people like to leave the patina so it feels old but I like to make them as pretty as I can for the next owner. I want it to be something they enjoy using for years to come. Let the sweat and man hours they build things with put some patina back on it.


----------



## bandit571

A while back, while doing a bit of Birthday shopping..for me…









They must have used a couple of cans of spray paint?









At least they left the wood un-painted…









Took a bit longer than Sansoo..but..









Looks like a Millers Falls No. 15 was under all that paint..


















I think that will just have to do…


----------



## sansoo22

Nice work Bandit! That could not have been fun removing all of that paint. What color red do you use for the lever cap logo? I have a MF Type 4 that is going to need some touch up done on the lever cap.


----------



## controlfreak

I don't know what would make someone paint a plane but they have been corrected by Bandit.


----------



## bandit571

Dupli-colour scratch repair….Cardinal RED. There is even a tiny paint brush in the lid….

purple colour was just flaking off…happens when they don't use a primer under the paint…


----------



## Karda

nice job that had to be a chore, how did you remove it


----------



## bandit571

Wire wheels…


----------



## Karda

ok


----------



## Brit

I cleaned up a couple of old trammel heads tonight that I bought some time ago. I need to make some keepers for them at some point.

Before (Seller's pic):










After:


----------



## sansoo22

Id say those cleaned up real well. I just love the way brass looks after a good polish on the buffer.


----------



## corelz125

Seeing that shiny brass it usually always comes from one guy. Another nice job Andy


----------



## MrMenessis

My newest project. A no. 71 Router plane.
All I have done so far is to use a wire brush to knock off dirt and grime and any loose rust. Removed the handles and put the body in EvaporRust. About 5 hours it was nice and clean.
I looks good I think. It is missing the correct iron and adjusting "nut". I guess I will machine up what I need once I find some good pics of what they look like.
I think it's a Type 8, 1900 to 1915.


----------



## DLK

This is a W. Tyzack and sons (Shefiled) 14B backsaw.

*Before*









*After*









I straighten the bent spine, polished the plate and made a new handle. Then I took a week off to learn how to cut new teeth and sharpen a saw. Because I have 3 other backsaws sharpened crosscut, I decided to sharpen this to be a small tenon saw, so 10ppi and filed rip. Cuts like a hot knife through butter. I am very pleased.


----------



## CFrye

Nice work Don! What decided you to make a new handle as opposed to fixing the old one?


----------



## DLK

I couldn't clean the green stain, dye or paint out of the old handle. (It maybe that they cleaned it with simple green, which I have seen stain some wood.)


----------



## Karda

I have had to paint plane handle because a purple stain in the wood, ruins nice wood


----------



## sansoo22

Been looking for one of these little knuckle cap planes with the sweetheart logo for awhile. Never could snag one in good shape at a fair price so I bought one no one else seemed to want. I figured I know a thing or two about restoring planes so why not try it on a block plane.


----------



## DonBroussard

sansoo - Very nice restore. Is that an 18 or a 19?


----------



## sansoo22

> sansoo - Very nice restore. Is that an 18 or a 19?
> 
> - Don Broussard


Thank you. This is a #18. I'm still on the hunt for a #19. I have no use for a #19 other than I want one.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Beautiful!


----------



## controlfreak

Another work of art!


----------



## Brit

Amazing!


----------



## DLK

I need a little help.

I Picked up a Millers Falls 18c but the shoulder of the depth adjustment knob is frozen against the frog and further more the wheel has separated from the from the other shoulder and turns freely. I have been soaking it with PB-Blaster and and have tried to grip and turn it with narrow jaw vise grips, but no luck so far.

Any suggestion on what I could do would be appreciated.


----------



## drsurfrat

I normally just tap on frozen bolts with a hammer, but DONT do that with a casting! (you obviously know that)
Do you have access to liquid nitrogen? Or dry ice? that might shrink everything enough to make it loose.
Or, if you heated only the collar ("the other shoulder") with a soldering iron, it might expand and break free.
Or take a Dremel and split the collar since it seems to be broken anyway. Or are they 2-piece?


----------



## DLK

The wheel and the coller are two pieces, that are supposed to be attached together. (I am not sure how. I am not metal expert.) I don't want to split the collar.

I've been tapping the shoulder that is frozen against the frog. I think I have a soldering iron. I could try that.


----------



## sansoo22

I've never had one that stuck before but my first step is soak the whole thing in evaporust. It seeps in to lots of small areas to loosen up rust. If its still stuck after that I have a pint size mason jar full of Kroil Oil that I place the whole frog in over night. That usually does the trick for me.

In your case I would try some CRC Freeze-off to spray down the post and collar. Then use the soldering iron to heat just the collar. Failing that I would spin the wheel off and put a couple nuts on the post to see if I could extract the whole post. Extracting the whole post is not ideal and would be my last effort.


----------



## DLK

I will try that. BTW where can buy kroil oil? (Other than ordering it online.) Also the wheel does not spin off it stays loosely attached to the collar.


----------



## drsurfrat

I hate to be Captain Obvious (really sorry), but you do know it is left handed thread, right? I almost destroyed a bike frame with a 4 ft. breaker bar on a wrench until I remembered that I was tightening it …


----------



## DLK

Yes o.k. But I am turning the right way.


----------



## corelz125

I had frozen frog screws the only thing worked was heating it with plumber torch.one loosened up with an impact driver other didn't budge until I heated it up.


----------



## DLK

O.K. I can't get a good grip on it. It is nut really, and so an impact driver won't work. I may just give up soon.


----------



## corelz125

Even if you can get the screw loose then just replace both pieces. I had to do that with a sargent 407. Couldn't budge the adjustment knob but the screw loosened up. You can also try acetone mixed with auto trans fluid. Might have that around.


----------



## HokieKen

+1 for acetone and ATF. Kroil works as well but you can completely submerge it in ATF and acetone for a lot cheaper. Never ran into that particular problem before.


----------



## bandit571

There was a type of depth adjustment wheel..where the inner STEEL was bonded to a brass wheel….steel insert had a thin flange bent over and onto the brass wheel…..Sargent was bad about this kind of wheel set-up….


----------



## DLK

> There was a type of depth adjustment wheel..where the inner STEEL was bonded to a brass wheel….steel insert had a thin flange bent over and onto the brass wheel…..Sargent was bad about this kind of wheel set-up….
> 
> - bandit571


I think this one is similar.


----------



## DLK

> You can also try acetone mixed with auto trans fluid. Might have that around.
> 
> - corelz125





> +1 for acetone and ATF. Kroil works as well but you can completely submerge it in ATF and acetone for a lot cheaper. Never ran into that particular problem before.
> 
> - HokieKen


What is the Acetone/ATF mix ratio? 50/50?


----------



## HokieKen

Yes, 50:50 is what I've used Don.


----------



## corelz125

Soak it in that for a day or two and see if it budges if not clean it off good than add some heat.


----------



## drsurfrat

> Soak it in that for a day or two and see if it budges if not *clean it off good* than add some heat.
> 
> - corelz125


haha - before firing up that torch…

And the acetone will take off all the paint for a fresh start.


----------



## corelz125

Haha you cold also leave it on then it will be self heating.


----------



## sansoo22

This one I just finished up had some stuck parts on it. PB Blaster got the frog screws thankfully but then the whole frog went into the Kroil jar. I'm going to try the 50/50 ATF/Acetone blend next time. That jar of Kroil is getting pretty funky.


















It turned out pretty nice once all the parts finally came apart.









Thought about using it to get a head start on this TP situation.


----------



## Karda

great job but wouldn't that be kina rough for TP


----------



## DanKrager

Trust me. It would be better than corn cobs.

DanK


----------



## bandit571

Or…"John Wayne Paper"?


----------



## DLK

Soaking now in 50:50 acetone + ATF.


----------



## drsurfrat

How come transmission fluid? Does it have some other property to de-rust, or does the acetone help it penetrate differently that some other oil?


----------



## DLK

> How come transmission fluid? Does it have some other property to de-rust, or does the acetone help it penetrate differently that some other oil?
> 
> - drsurfrat


I don't know. I just do what I am told. LOL.


----------



## corelz125

Don't know either Mike I read about it and tried it. It's something I had available so I gave it a shot.


----------



## HokieKen

Acetone has the unique quality of being able to mix with either oil or water. ATF is an oil that has good viscosity and strong anti-corrosive additives. The acetone dilutes the ATF and makes it thinner allowing it to penetrate more easily with out messing up its molecular mojo ;-)


----------



## Karda

My latest saw restoration, Warranted Superior 14" crosscut. I bought this to re sell but it is so cute I am keeping it it also sharp and cuts great. No etch


----------



## DLK

Nevermind.


----------



## Karda

never mind what


----------



## DLK

> never mind what
> 
> - Karda


I asked a question. Posted it. Figured it out. Deleted the post, but decided some could have seen it. So politely said nevermind.


----------



## Karda

oh ok


----------



## DLK

*sansoo* I bought a inch 6" blue (400 grit) Scotch‑Brite™ Radial Bristle Brush, put on the buffer (3600 rpm) and tried it out. Pretty cool. Now I wonder what else you are using. Should I buy more wheels or other Scotch‑Brite brushes.


----------



## sansoo22

It grinds, it buffs, its the one stop plane rehab center. Not really a one stop but a flip top cart with grinder and buffer is pretty cool.



















The buffer is just a 1/2 hp eastwood so nothing super fancy. I usually use black compound on the left wheel and green compound on the white wheel. The black compound gets you a nice luster like on the pre nickel finished lever caps. The green compound can get you a mirror-like finish. Well green compound and sanding to 3000 wet can get a mirror-like finish.

Edit: Forgot to mention I haven't tried the Scotch wheels yet. I have a medium and fine wire wheels on my old Delta grinder. The Scotch wheels are the next thing I want to try.


----------



## controlfreak

> Soaking now in 50:50 acetone + ATF.
> 
> - Combo Prof


I need to try this on a part that is hopelessly seized but have a question. Will this mixture dissolve disposable foil pans or tupperware type plastic containers? I would hate to find this mixture all over the wrong tools.


----------



## HokieKen

I am speaking only from experience, not from knowing for sure CF. I had a collar siezed on the spindle of my mill when I was rebuilding it and I soaked it in ATF/Acetone in a tupperware bowl for nearly a week. No sign of any damage whatsoever to the bowl. Also, acetone and ATF are both sold in plastic contatainers. As far as foil, I wouldn't hesitate to use it but can't say for sure.

BTW, even the week-long soak didn't loosen up those threads. Next came the torch and it worked like a charm…


----------



## DLK

I had no luck soaking the frog with seized adjuster knob. I was surprised that the acetone evaporated leaving only the ATF.


----------



## HokieKen

That is strange Don. It wasn't synthetic ATF was it? I seem to recall that acetone won't emulsify in the synthetic stuff like it does in the regular.


----------



## DLK

Could be. It was the cheapest only cost be $2 for the quart. I will look at it and see. But I have bought a new frog assembly and will post about it later when I finish the restoration. It is on hold now while I finish a drop leaf addition to a chest of drawers … an annoying wife project. We'll I am learning about rule joints.


----------



## HokieKen

Is the seized frog valuable Don? If it's worth the cost of shipping to you, you're welcome to send it my way and I'll see if I can get it freed up for you.


----------



## controlfreak

Thanks Kenny, I should have thought about the plastic container. Maybe I should try it in a Styrofoam cooler, I hear it works better if you insulate it


----------



## Lazyman

> Could be. It was the cheapest only cost be $2 for the quart. I will look at it and see. But I have bought a new frog assembly and will post about it later when I finish the restoration. It is on hold now while I finish a drop leaf addition to a chest of drawers … an annoying wife project. We ll I am learning about rule joints.
> 
> - Combo Prof


Is the project annoying or the wife?  Don't worry, we won't tell.


----------



## DLK

> Is the seized frog valuable Don? If it s worth the cost of shipping to you, you re welcome to send it my way and I ll see if I can get it freed up for you.
> 
> - HokieKen


I don't know if its valuable, I think it is type 3. I will see what the shipping is. At this point I think it may be best to cut off and replace the adjusting knob.


----------



## DLK

> Is the project annoying or the wife?  Don t worry, we won t tell.
> 
> - Lazyman


It's the project that's annoying, I think. We picked up an oak chest of draws for free. It needs a little work that I fix. But my wife has these upcycling ideas that she thinks will be cheap to do. I've spent about $150 on the drop leaf addition. Almost finished, but I can't remember where I put the casters I bought for it. Arrrrrg.


----------



## DLK

> Is the seized frog valuable Don? If it s worth the cost of shipping to you, you re welcome to send it my way and I ll see if I can get it freed up for you.
> 
> - HokieKen
> 
> I don t know if its valuable, I think it is type 3. I will see what the shipping is. At this point I think it may be best to cut off and replace the adjusting knob.
> 
> - Combo Prof


*Have you moved? Are you still in Roanoke?*


----------



## HokieKen

Nope, haven't moved Don. Still in Roanoke.


----------



## DLK

I will put it in the mail tomorrow. When you get it we can talk about what to do about it.


----------



## HokieKen

Sounds good Don. I'll dig out the acetone and ATF ;-)


----------



## bandit571

Block plane…the before shots..









and..









and the sole..









"We have ..ways.." 









The "After", view from the front…









From the side..and…









Sole is still a work in progress. Not sure who even made this little plane….









There is a "U" in the bed casting. Not a mark on the iron. Knob seems to be a product from Millers Falls? Under the cap is a "12" cast in…bottle cap adjuster…hmm…


----------



## HokieKen

For Don K:


----------



## corelz125

He got that part off or that's where he got stuck?


----------



## HokieKen

He sent it to me. After about a week in Kroil, I finally got the stud out. Bad boy was S-T-U-C-K…


----------



## corelz125

That part I can usually do. It's the getting the knob off the stud where it all turns bad.


----------



## DLK

The knob-collar unit is now in two loosely connected pieces. The actual knob and the collar in which the Y stis. The knob will spin without turning the collar but does not separate from it. Kenny has gotten farther then I did. If the knob and collar can be removed one can buy a replacement. knob+collar unit.


----------



## HokieKen

It can be removed Don ;-)









I can definitely clean the stud up with a thread file and it'll be good to go. I can try throwing a couple of spot welds to get the knob back to a single piece and it may or may not be useable. Unfortunately, I don't have a LH tap to chase the threads with. I can probably clean the depth adjuster fork area up with a file though and get it useable. The threads are iffy as is my welds though… And in any case, it ain't gonna be pretty.


----------



## bandit571

I'll look through my spares…I MIGHT just have one of the wheels…


----------



## DLK

Is it the same as the stanley LH tap. If so I have one. Maybe I can check that they are the same from here.


----------



## HokieKen

Thanks Bandit. If you can fix Don up with a wheel, he'll be back to a fully behaved froggy.


----------



## HokieKen

Don, I'm fairly sure MF and Stanley used the same size threads on the adjuster.


----------



## DLK

I also think they did. I will make sure I have the right tap. It is the one I have used for the Stanley 78, depth knob.


----------



## bandit571

Found a 1" diameter STEEL one, with LH threads….I do have a brass one, but…it is RH thread, with a lot of L. Bailey stamps inside…..just have to figure how, and where to send the steel one,,,,


----------



## DLK

Bandit let me work it out with Kenny.


----------



## DLK

I mean let me work out where to mail it with kenny,


----------



## HokieKen

Okay, for Don K:









She ain't real pretty but she's back to fully functional ;-) A little hammering with a ball peen seems to have locked to two pieces of the nut back together and a thread file sorted the stud out nicely. Cleaned the dings and sharp spots up with a file and Bob's your uncle.


----------



## DLK

... and Fanny's your aunt. Well, hmmm now what do we do with it?


----------



## bandit571

Looks like a case of strip, primer, and a coat of Cardinal Red would be in order….


----------



## HokieKen

Yeah, that pig could use a little lipstick Bandit.


----------



## bandit571

Paint anything red, and a Marine will fall in love with it…..

Have another block plane to rehab…the wheel under the cap is Red…and the lower half of the cap as well….top half of the cap is…..green. Otherwise…looks like a run-of-the-mill #110 with a black paint front knob…threads onto the base….

photos Saturday…hope the camera will survive the picture…..


----------



## DLK

Yes a lot of the pain came off in the ATF/Acetone soak.


----------



## drsurfrat

Nice Freudian slip.


----------



## bandit571

A Mutt of a block plane…(Hider yer eyes, Mabel!) 









Sides are a bit….rough..









Coat of many colours?









The sole? ( already flunked the 2-finger test)









That wheel looks familiar..









And, there is a King-sized bed for the iron to rest on…









Not sure what that hole in the iron goes to…

This one will take a while….need to get out the Cardinal Red paint….what colour knob should it get…black paint is peeling off….

Stay tuned….


----------



## DLK

> Nice Freudian slip.
> 
> - drsurfrat


LOL.Yes it was.


----------



## Mosquito

Minor brass clad rule clean up. Destined for the Keen Kutter tool cabinet, though may end up using it more than that, we'll see.

Cleaned up and put a new pin in it, but didn't go super crazy on polishing or anything like that, just some paste wax dissolved/diluted with mineral spirits, some red scotch-brite pad, and grease of the elbow. wiped on a little rather diluted danish oil, and then applied paste wax and buffed by hand


----------



## theoldfart

Nice work on the brass bound rule Mos.


----------



## donwilwol

Well done Mos


----------



## bandit571

The Mutt?









Not any more..









From a bad sole…









To a clean and flat sole..









iron was honed to 2K grit, then stropped…









Seems to work well enough for a standard angle Block Plane…


----------



## HokieKen

Well done Bandit!


----------



## Brit

Nice job Bandit!


----------



## bandit571

A Keen Kutter No. KK 4c…as bought, for $40



























Took my time ..



























Made by Ohio Tool Co ( Ohio Tool Co. went out of business about 1920..) and marked for the Keen Kutter Brand


----------



## Lazyman

I finally got back to my cleanup of the Stanley 46 I bought last fall. 




































I still need to do some basic cleaning of the wood parts and buff the thumb screws a little but it's mostly done. I did cheat here a little. After cleaning, I did not like the look of the bare metal where the plating had worn off and rusted so I decided to try using Rub 'N Buff which is a silver tinted wax based finish to give it more protection and eventually decided to cover everything but the skates, rods, depth stops and thumb screws. I think it will come off with some mineral spirits if I decide I don't like it and it's not a thick coating like a paint would be. So far I think I like how it looks.

Has anyone else ever tried using Rub N Buff or similar products?


----------



## BlasterStumps

Nathan, the Rub N Buff made that old 46 look great. Nice job bringing that old plane back. I might have to give that product a try myself. Thanks for sharing the info.
Mike


----------



## Lazyman

Thanks Mike. I used the silver Rub N Buff because that is what I had on hand but they have a pewter color that may be a little less shiny for a more aged look. I didn't coat any threads or parts that would naturally rub on the wood while in use to avoid transfer to the workpiece. I'll report back after I've had a chance to see how it performs.


----------



## corelz125

It looks good from here Nathan I wouldn't even noticed.


----------



## HokieKen

Slick Nathan! That looks great. You might even have some cutters for it soon!


----------



## HokieKen

Nathan, could we get a closer pic showing the contrast between the buffed metal and a section of the skate that hasn't been buffed? I'd really like to have a better idea of how that stuff looks compared to metal without it. I have a nickel plated block plane that I'd like to strip the rest of the nickel from and make it purrdy


----------



## Lazyman

I wish I had taken a picture of the scroll pattern before I applied the RnB. I will have to look through my photos to see if I may have taken one in the middle of clean up. There is still quite a bit of plating on the scroll pattern but it looked pretty brownish after a pretty cleaning and soak in evaporust. I used some bristle disk on my dremel that removed any remaining rust and evaporust patina but they didn't really remove the brownish color and didn't want go full wire wheel and end up removing all of the plating. I'll post a close up here in a minute after I go to the shop and take a close up that will show the finished and unfinished surfaces.


----------



## HokieKen

Awesome. Thanks


----------



## Lazyman

The skate has no Rub N Buff and you can see where some of the plating is still there where it was protected by the splitter cutter stop which I removed for the photo. The wing nuts still have most of the plating and look better than the scrollwork did before coating with RnB. The thumb screw was completely rusted and had no plating and got a short soak in evaporust and cleaning with the bristle disc.The threads were actually not too bad and didn't need much work. 









Next time I might try using the pewter color instead of the sliver. My hope is that since it is a wax, it will provide some long term protection. My fear is that it could rub off on the work pieces. It seems to take a while before it stops rubbing off when I buff it.


----------



## hockeyfan_019

The results here really stand out, especially the molding plane with the fence! But I keep asking myself about restorations though, is it better to restore a product using the same specs as the original, or upgrade if you need to? Mine aren't shelf displays, I use them all, so I want maximum functionality. Recently I was restoring a plane that had a 5/16 clamping rod with a strange thread that was damaged, and missing the upper nut. So, I drilled out the plane shoe and tapped it for a new insert with a "normal" common size. What do you guys think? I'm sort of torn by wanting it to retain the original features, but I also want them to be useful tools that aren't impossible to repair.


----------



## HokieKen

Thanks Nathan. That stuff really did make a difference! I might have to grab some 

hokeyfan - For me it comes down to whether or not the tool has any historical significance or is collectible for some reason. If it's a common tool, I will upgrade/modify/repair as I see fit. I generally try to use original parts if they can be found for a reasonable price. But I have tapped out more than one hole in planes so I could use a 1/4-20 screw instead of the 12-20 commonly used on vintage planes. My tools are all users as well so that's where my perspective comes from. I'm not a collector so my tools aren't meant to be re-sold. If they were, I'd keep them original.


----------



## Lazyman

The jury is still out whether this was a good idea, Kenny. I may not know for sure until I get some cutters for it .


----------



## drsurfrat

> ... What do you guys think? I m sort of torn by wanting it to retain the original features, but I also want them to be useful tools that aren t impossible to repair.
> - hockeyfan_019


Perhaps one too many opinions, but I tend towards keeping the original for a couple reasons. You can't 'uncut' something. Most everything I have is 'historic' in some sense, so I am biased that way. And with a little patience and perhaps money, I can almost always find the right part. And unless you break bolts frequently (har har) it is usually a one-time repair.

I still think that USE is more important than any of these desires for originality. Sometimes that use is historic preservation, but rarely.


----------



## Lazyman

I just remembered that I had posted a before Rub N Buff picture over in the 45 thread:










You can see how brown it looked and this would not come off with the bristle brushes I was using to try to clean it.


----------



## Karda

Hi, i have a small restoration nothing fancy just a couple chisels. I goofed and for got the before before the before are after they were cleaned but you didn't miss much. the larger one had a chunk out of the cutting edge so I had to grind back 1/8th of an inch. The large chisel is a Sargent VBM and the small Enders 1/4 inch. The handles I made rather poorly, need to practice my chisel handle skills.


----------



## HokieKen

Those handles look pretty good to me


----------



## Karda

thanks ken


----------



## KentInOttawa

I think that this may be my first post in here. Hmmmm?

I brought this from my step-dad's place a couple of years back. He probably brought this vise there from his family farm when that was sold. As you can see, this vise has been around and has no doubt earned its keep many times over.



















I wound up completely disassembling it and giving it a good brush-down and cleaning, then I gave it a couple of coats of bright enamel. I'm not going to lose this puppy in the shop anymore.

I finally got it mounted to a new benchtop in the new shop this afternoon.



















I'm happy to replace and donate the good quality but lighter Record 100 vise that I'd been using with the cleaned and painted vintage iron.


----------



## HokieKen

Well done Kent. That should last a lifetime and a couple more


----------



## donwilwol

That's going to be so handy


----------



## KentInOttawa

Thanks, guys.


> That s going to be so handy
> 
> - Don W


Not having a vise while I fabricated some fender washers for mounting the vise was challenging.


----------



## corelz125

I have a small anvil and steel vise and use them all the time.


----------



## donwilwol

I needed a bow vise, so I dug out my old bench vise


----------



## Lazyman

Cleaver idea. I am surprised you didn't attach a cleat on the bottom of that board and then clamp it in the face vise.


----------



## HokieKen

He couldn't Nathan. The pipe clamps were in the way ;-)

Seems like an awfully short vise to work on something so long Don?


----------



## donwilwol

No cleat required


----------



## theoldfart

Pretty clever Don. More process pics would be acceptable!


----------



## donwilwol

> Pretty clever Don. More process pics would be acceptable!
> 
> - theoldfart


I'll post a blog soon


----------



## HokieKen

Haven't posted anything in this thread for a while so I took some pics of this block plane I did this weekend. It's a Millers Falls #36 (Stanley 18 equivalent) knuckle cap. First knuckle cap I've had and I find the grip extremely comfortable 

*Before:*


















*After:*


----------



## DLK

1921 Millers Falls No. 3 Hand Drill. This drill features


McCoy's springless chuck adjustable from 0 to 3/16 inch.


A detachable elongated teardrop-shaped side handle, that allows for the storage of longer twist bits. Also taken apart it can be stored compactly in say a tool box. (A cork stopper could be used to keep the drill bits in place when take apart.)

I think this a very cool hand drill.

I turned a new side knob out of indian rosewood on my aggravating hobby dunlop lathe. (So aggravating that I decided to bite the bullet and buy a Comet II midi lathe. It should arrive next week.)

The drill initially ran rough and the turn handle knob was frozen. It runs smoothly now and quite nice to use.

It looks like I need some help in getting my painting smoother. *Please may I have some suggestions and advice.*

*Before*










*After*










*All broken down for easy storage.*


----------



## CFrye

Very Nicely done Don! I got no advise on painting. 
Congrats on the new lathe!


----------



## HokieKen

Looks fantastic Don!

Can't really see issues with the paint but, did you strip the old paint completely? What kind of paint did you use?


----------



## DLK

Thanks Candy.

Thanks Kenny.

No I didn't strip the paint completely. I only used a scotch wheel to knock off any loose paint.

The paint was Rustoleum Ultra Cover paint+primer. Gloss Colony Red.

The lathe is just a new accessory for my Robert Sorby proedge sharpening system.


----------



## HokieKen

My only suggestion for your paint might be to strip the old paint completely Don.


----------



## DLK

> My only suggestion for your paint might be to strip the old paint completely Don.
> 
> - HokieKen


I'll try that on the next one. I think I have 4 or 5 more to do.


----------



## ac0rn

These are too far for me to consider, but any restorer's north of Seattle might be interested.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/tls/d/marysville-vintage-hand-planes/7308298095.html


----------



## bandit571

Rusty old Compass..









Got cleaned up a bit..


















But….there was something about the pointer I didn't like…..as this is a Starrett from 1889….according to the patent date stamped on it…and I doubt the pointer is the OEM one….and since I do not have the original one….this modified bolt had a date with my grinder….









Threads were ground off, a new and better point was made….the threaded section at the top of this strange bolt was ground off….the hex nut was rounded into a collar…









Not sure which I like best…the brass nut…or that wheel nut….

Spent $4 on the thing….









Marking a 7/8" radius…with ease…


----------



## Karda

Good job it works thats what counts


----------



## DLK

I belive that's a Starrett No. 85, here is a picture of one. Clearly the one you have had the pointer and holding nut replaced. I bet you can find or make a matching nut. Of course you have it functional and it works for you. Then good enough. I think this site has given me tool restoration OCD. Nice restoration. New ones cost around $224, on ebay they sell for around $70, so Steven for $4 you did real good. (Also you should make a matching metal pointer for the pencil side as the original came with. That way it can also be used as dividers.)


----------



## bandit571

Rusty hand brace…









Along with a Estwing hammer…and a screwdriver…


















I figured I could clean up all 3 items…Brace?









Had to replace the badly worn out jaws….No. 923-8in.

The hammer?









And the screwdriver….still trying to get the smell of Murphy's Oil Soap out of my nose….yuck

Hammer is from Rockford,ILL and is a 20 oz Claw….with a smooth face. 









Or so it says on the base plate…


----------



## Karda

nice job


----------



## bandit571

Still working on the saw, but..









I did get the Atkins Saw Set…









All cleaned up, and ready to go to work..









Will post later, when the Disston D8 is done…


----------



## Notw

Posted this in the Mitre box of your dreams but figured it should go here too. Stanley No. 150 mitre box. wasn't in terrible shape when I got it but I think I made it better. Still have to paint the letters red and HokieKen is making a couple of the missing parts for me.

Before









After


----------



## Lazyman

More of a rescue than a restoration of a Montgomery Wards Lakeside R3 that I picked up at a flea market last weekend. Research indicates it was made by H.C. Marsh Tool Co., Rockford Ill.. 
Before: tons of crud and rust and a broken tote All parts appear to be original including the walnut nob and tote.




























After crud and rust removal, strip, repair and refinish of nob and broken tote and reconditioning and sharpening the blade, chip breaker and cap. The blade still needs a little work due to pitting right behind the edge but otherwise it works very well.




























Sole was actually pretty flat but I basically spent a few minutes "flattening" to reduce the pitting and make it shine better. Still needs a few more coats of T&T varnish oil and a a coat of paste wax but she works well. Going to be a user addition to the corral.


----------



## drsurfrat

Wow, nice job. A gem under the coal. Useful size, too.


----------



## Lazyman

Thanks Mike. I forgot to mention that I repainted too. There was literally no paint or japanning left on it. The lacquer on the wood was actually in pretty good shape but I decided to sand it off and just apply the varnish oil.


----------



## Karda

nice job


----------



## sansoo22

Nice work on the R4. It looks like that tote repair came out really well. I bought a handful of cheap broken totes off ebay recently and repaired them. It can be a bit trickier than it seems getting those to line up just right so you can't feel the seem when you're done.


----------



## Lazyman

The tote was off a tiny bit but took very little sanding to get it back to flush. The dyed epoxy I used made it pretty easy.


----------



## corelz125

Nice work Nathan. The Lakesides some are solid users.


----------



## Lazyman

I could use some advice on my next restoration. The paint on this one looked pretty bad after cleaning so I put some Citrus Strip on it to see if it would remove it. It is pretty mild stripper but it is all that I have on hand. After sitting for a while it seemed like the paint was starting to peel so I scraped it off. I got tons of black fleck but after cleaning all of the stripper off, all but the paint near the heel still looks pretty intact. I tried using wire wheel, razor blade and hardened steel marking knife to remove the remaining paint but they all barely even scratch it. Sandpaper definitely removed some paint but I don't relish the idea of sanding in all of the tight spaces.



















Since this will be a gift I want to restore the paint with Don's recommended engine paint to make it look nicer. I read on Don's website that he uses a sandblaster to clean off rust and paint. I don't have one but I am thinking about one of those cheap portable units or simply a makeshift one like this.

Will the sandblaster actually remove this? Is a there paint stripper that you think will work? Since the remaining paint seems to be tight, can I just paint over it? What would you do?


----------



## sansoo22

I use Klean Strip, a disposable brush, and a plastic tub.










This is after the first coat of Klean Strip left to sit for about 36 hrs or so. This tub is not ideal for the job but finding larger ones with nice locking lids isn't always easy. I have found the longer I can keep the Klean Strip from drying out the more it will take off.

Sometimes it takes 3 or 4 coats before I break out the small cup brushes for my cordless drill. I clean these off with soap, water, and a hand held steel brush between coats. Usually once the chemical has found its way to bare metal the finish starts lifting right off.

You can see on the 5-1/4 where the original finish was crackled and lifting already. The chemical took it right off within hours. This one has really good finish everywhere else so I expect it will take a third coat. The frog went to bare metal after a single coat. And I expect that scrub will be ready for cup brushes after the second coat.

Hope that helps some. I don't have access to a blast cabinet either. Its on the wish list but my compressor isnt up to task either way so I'd have to buy both at once. Could be a while before I can swing that.


----------



## sansoo22

I should have mentioned that if you use Klean Strip and leave it in a tub it will smell like butt hole gone bad…in a box…once you open it.


----------



## BlasterStumps

... it will smell like butt hole gone bad…in a box…

There's a pretty picture for sure. : )


----------



## RWE

Like Sansoo, I use a paint stripper. I have a couple of planes that I will need to clean. I am thinking about the solution in the YouTube video. I used a sand blaster years ago on an old 1959 MGA "beach" car that had rust in the wheel well panels and really loved the whole technique.

In checking Harbor Freight, they have a *Sand Blasting Gun they sell for $29* or so, kind of like what the DIY fellow conjured in the YouTube video.

If I pursue this plan, I will report back. My compressor is a smaller unit but I think I have enough patience to let it catch up as needed.


----------



## corelz125

I haven't found to many finishes that can stand up to a 4" grinder with a wire wheel on it. The bad part about that they're very aggressive and can scratch the soft cast iron.


----------



## sansoo22

Was feeling left out of all the restoration fun. Its been a good 4 months since I restored anything. So I spent an hour or so this evening cleaning up my Stanley No 2 trammel points.


----------



## CaptainKlutz

> In checking Harbor Freight, they have a *Sand Blasting Gun they sell for $29* or so, - RWE


Sand blasting with that HF gun or anything similar is PITA, and not as cheap as it looks.

Also need to buy heavy leather welding gloves, face shield and/or other PPE. 
Without PPE, the reflected sand embeds in skin and hurts like hell.

Don' forget need blast media too. Play sand from BORG is too wet to be useful with drying it first.

Instead of wasting money on that gun, hit up Amadud for couple parts:
Grab a blast gun (folks use this one to replace gun with HF cabinets)
Some glass beads,

If you don't have any welding gloves laying around, buy these canvas/rubber gloves with flanges, 
and use a large cardboard box with piece of plastic drop cloth or plexiglass duct taped in for window.
If using acrylic window, over it with a couple layers of clear plastic wrap, and peel on off when it gets to cloudy to see. 
Cut a hole in top of box, and set a light on top, shining inside to see what you are doing. Cover it with more plastic wrap if media escapes because you made hole to big.

Feed gun from a container/bucket in bottom. When empty, pour the contents of box back in bucket. Can reuse glass beads 5-10 times depending on hardness of metal. It gets smaller and cuts slower, so you know when it is time for fresh media.

Result: DIY sand blast box.

When done blasting; the gun parts and media store in the bucket, and corrugated box folds up and stores flat.


----------



## Lazyman

> I haven t found to many finishes that can stand up to a 4" grinder with a wire wheel on it. The bad part about that they re very aggressive and can scratch the soft cast iron.
> 
> - corelz125


That is what I was expecting but the pictures are after I pretty aggressively for about 5 minutes tried to remove the paint with the wire wheel. You can sort of see a little bit of a pattern in the finish but it just wasn't coming off. Even trying to pick at the places where some of the paint is gone with a razor blade, it just will not come off.

Can anyone tell by looking if this is painted or is it japanned?


----------



## sansoo22

I say its japanned. The finish has all the same characteristics in the photos as many of the japanned planes I've restored. And if you're having that much trouble taking it off its japanned. Planes that were painted will usually come out of an Evaporust bath necked as the day they were cast.


----------



## 33706

If you are willing to spring for the tools, you can achieve good metal prep for your handplane restorations. This is how I do it: You need a compressor that will do at least 5 cfm. A sandblasting cabinet, I use glass bead, 40 to 50 grit, a 50 lb bag is $14. With these tools you can skip the step of chemical stripping, the sandblasting will quickly remove even stubborn asphaltum.

Then, inspect the quality of the surface of the cast iron. If there's any little nubs, grind them down with a mounted stone, file, or Dremel disc. Ohio and Union planes have a better surface generally than Stanley. Get a spray can of auto body "sandable' primer, which is formulated to be heavy bodied, to fill in minor imperfections in a metal surface. A coat or two, then sand with #320 or #0000 steel wool.

Then you can go to your final finish top coat. I prefer brush-on alkyd enamels, which dry slowly enough to level out evenly and develop a nice glossy surface. I've done traditional black, but experimented with some aerosol custom colors like rose gold, or teal green, with great results.


----------



## sansoo22

> If you are willing to spring for the tools, you can achieve good metal prep for your handplane restorations. This is how I do it: You need a compressor that will do at least 5 cfm. A sandblasting cabinet, I use glass bead, 40 to 50 grit, a 50 lb bag is $14. With these tools you can skip the step of chemical stripping, the sandblasting will quickly remove even stubborn asphaltum.
> 
> - poopiekat


This will be the next step in my plane restoration "evolution". One thing holding me back is I have no clue what to get for a compressor. When I Google info about it compressor sizing for blast cabinets I get more confused then when I started.


----------



## donwilwol

I find wire wheels produce heat which just spreads the jappaning around a little and seems to make it adhere even better.


----------



## Lazyman

Don, I assumed that because it appears to be the same frog design as the one here that you dated from the 50s, it was too late and too inexpensive a plane in the first place to be a japanned finish but it does seem like the wire wheel really only just changed the way the light reflected off of it.

Is it a bad idea to simply paint over the old finish since it has obviously been doing its job pretty well? I don't really need a full blown sand blasting setup, nor do I have room or the compressor for one anyway. So if painting over it is a bad idea I may try the DIY setup I linked to above or one of the inexpensive portable or gravity feed blasters.

BTW, the sole of this thing is dead flat and the right side is perfectly square. After cleaning the rust off the bottom and sides, A single pass on some 320 grit sand paper removed all of the Sharpie I put on the bottom to test the flatness. I might have to put a meatier chip breaker on it to make it a little more usable.


----------



## RWE

Lazyman:

I decided to try this blaster from Harbor Freight $19.99

I am going to use the walnut shell abrasive and do the work outside.

My Dewalt pancake compresser is rated at 2.6 CFM but I can be patient. I only do a plane ever so often. I am however tired of the Paint Remover method and I want to try something different.

I should have no more than $45 or so in the deal.

This may work like crap compared to a more powerful air compressor and a blasting box, but I don't have room for all of that.


----------



## Lazyman

Yeah, I hate paint strippers. I was originally thinking of that HF unit too but will try the DIY one first since I will at least be able to use the air gun for other uses (It comes with 2 nozzles). My compressor has a similar rating to yours but I figure it will work okay for something as small as a plane. I was wondering about whether the walnut media would work on this since it is refusing to come off but in the DIY video it ate through aluminum pretty quickly so surely with some patience it will take off this finish.


----------



## RWE

I was thinking that Walnut would not work as well as sand or glass, but it would be biodegradable and I plan to do the work outside. I will rake up whatever I can, but if the rest of the residue will degrade that would be better.

I guess sand would be okay as well.

If you get around to trying this in the next few days, post with your results. I am away with work till the end of the week and may not get to for a while.

I think the DIY would work just fine. I had to purchase a HVLP sprayer for some kitchen remodel work so I would not need the sprayer.


----------



## 33706

> If you are willing to spring for the tools, you can achieve good metal prep for your handplane restorations. This is how I do it: You need a compressor that will do at least 5 cfm. A sandblasting cabinet, I use glass bead, 40 to 50 grit, a 50 lb bag is $14. With these tools you can skip the step of chemical stripping, the sandblasting will quickly remove even stubborn asphaltum.
> 
> - poopiekat
> 
> This will be the next step in my plane restoration "evolution". One thing holding me back is I have no clue what to get for a compressor. When I Google info about it compressor sizing for blast cabinets I get more confused then when I started.
> 
> - sansoo22


You will be disappointed if you try to make do with a compressor with an output of less than 5.0 CFM. A smaller compressor will poop out after about 5 seconds, due to the orifice size of the sandblaster nozzle. I find that even with my 5.2 cfm, I sometimes have to wait for the compressor to catch up when I am going really hard at it. Mine is a diaphragm compressor pump, I'll be shopping for a conventional piston pump when it's time to replace.

Also, walnut shells have more of a burnishing effect, especially on cast aluminum, and not ideal for stripping rust or finishes. Great for appearance, but if you're refinishing you want 'tooth' for your new paint to adhere.


----------



## sansoo22

Thanks PK. I was going to try and make do with my older 26 gal Craftsman but its 4.9 scfm @ 90 psi. So who knows what the real world cfm really is. I don't know the duty cycle either. Manual says dont run it for longer than 30 min in an hour before letting it rest for 30 min. Sounds like 50/50 duty cycle but either way at less than 5 cfm Im either going to spend a lot of time waiting on the compressor to catch up or burn it up.


----------



## Notw

> Was feeling left out of all the restoration fun. Its been a good 4 months since I restored anything. So I spent an hour or so this evening cleaning up my Stanley No 2 trammel points.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - sansoo22


Those are nice! a set of these is definitely on my tool bucket list


----------



## Karda

I picked this Winchester 8 point yesterday. I rehabed the plate but left the handle alone. I want to re sell this saw and when I do a handle I strip and finish with oil. Also the under side of the upper horn is broken up but not enough to affect it use. The bottom picture is of a round punch mark what is it, I have seen it on other saws in that area


----------



## Lazyman

> I guess sand would be okay as well.
> 
> If you get around to trying this in the next few days, *post with your results*. I am away with work till the end of the week and may not get to for a while.
> 
> - RWE


I'd call this a success!. It took all of 5 minutes to setup once I got the $5 blow gun home from HF.

I used a Dremel to cut a notch in the tube on its top side and drilled a hole in the bottle for the tube. You invert the bottle when blasting and the sand feeds into the tube. A heavier duty bottle would work better. You have to use 2 hands because you have to keep the bottle vertical so I used a clamp the help hold the plane in various positions and keep the pressure from moving it around. 









After getting the sand home, It has some pretty large pieces so I decided to sift it with an old mesh colander. 

















I am sure that some actual blaster media would work better but for under $5 the price was right and it worked. On this one at least, I don't think that the walnut media would have worked very well. It was pretty stubborn and the sand won't hurt the lawn area-our heavy clay soil will benefit from a little sand. It took about 6 pints of sand to remove all of the paint. After a couple of minutes I decided that long sleeves and pants were needed. I also wore a face shield and some cheap welding gloves. I forgot to put on a cap and I had to vacuum the sand out of my hair afterwards. My 10 gallon compressor was able to mostly keep up. I varied the pressure from 60 to 90 PSI. It definitely worked better at 90 but 60 was sufficient-just a little slower. 









It is now stored in a bag of silica desiccant to prevent flash rust until I have chance to paint it. It is really humid here today.

Anyway. I cheap alternative for me since it will not be something that need to do very often and will take no room to store in my shop between uses.


----------



## HokieKen

*********************************** engineering at its finest. Good stuff Nathan


----------



## KentInOttawa

I've just finished my first saw restoration. Any and all attempts up until now have been nothing more than brushing off the loose accumulated crud.

Here's a before shot of the saw plate with some mineral oil lubricant on it, just as I started (I missed the before shot of the entire, uncleaned saw).










It took a lot of hand scraping with a razor blade, some mild abrasives and a brass-bristled toothbrush to get it to here.










The finished and assembled saw looks much better, now.










The handle received just a light buffing with 0000 steel wool and some mineral oil. The medallion and nuts were lightly cleaned and polished. Damned, but don't they just attract the sawdust faster than I can wipe it off?!?



















The saw is a Disston D8 made in Toronto sometime between 1928 and 1947 based on reading the faint etch, the saw medallion and the applewood handle.


----------



## adot45

Nice job, good looking saw.


----------



## bandit571

Picked over the weekend…Birthday Rust Hunt..









Thought a quick clean up would help….









Stanley No. 4…..blue body…type 19/20?









Cleaned up the sole, a bit….









Replace the front knob with one that fits better….didn't need 2 washers under the brass..









Shined up the sides….wasn't worried about a 90 degree corner….not for shooting, anyway..









Sharpened the iron, mated the chipbreaker to it…..and did a test drive in Ash….no chatter, no tear outs..

I seem to have an English Cousin of this Stanley No. 4…...









Made in England..









Vs..Made in USA….....another difference..









The "Brit" version is Groovy, Man…..the Made in USA version still had wood handles….the Brit has gone to black plastic ones….


----------



## Karda

nice job


----------



## sansoo22

Nathan - After seeing your results and dealing with two stupidly stubborn type 18s I think i'm going to pull the trigger on the Harbor Freight blast cabinet and do the typical YouTube upgrades to it. To avoid burning up my old Craftsman compressor I will probably still do an initial round or two of "chemical peel" and finish the bodies up in the blast cabinet. The Craftsman compressor isn't even being used right now so not a huge loss if it dies on me.

Its a $180 dollar gamble but I've spent more money on worse ideas. Just need a break in the rain to get it the cabinet now.


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## Lazyman

Once you burn up your compressor you can invest in a nice quiet one. My 10 gallon California Air actually kept up pretty well all things considering. I don't think it ever dropped below 60 PSI which still worked pretty well considering that I was just using construction sand. With a cabinet, you can get some nicer media and get a better result, though I cannot complain about my results.


----------



## sansoo22

> Once you burn up your compressor you can invest in a nice quiet one. My 10 gallon California Air actually kept up pretty well all things considering. I don t think it ever dropped below 60 PSI which still worked pretty well considering that I was just using construction sand. With a cabinet, you can get some nicer media and get a better result, though I cannot complain about my results.
> 
> - Lazyman


You pretty much read my mind. If the Craftsman is up to the task I will use it until it dies or the funds from plane and tool restoration sales makes enough to afford something nice. Assuming the whole economy doesn't completely crap out that is. The California Air Tools compressors are at the top of my list.


----------



## corelz125

Now that you want the compressor to die it's going to run forever


----------



## sansoo22

> Now that you want the compressor to die it s going to run forever
> 
> - corelz125


You weren't supposed to mention that. Now its of course going to live forever half assing the job.


----------



## Lazyman

I'd just sell it while it works and get a better one. That's what I did. I was tired of my old one making me jump out of my skin when it cycled on. It was by far the loudest tool in my shop, even including the planer and CNC machine.


----------



## adot45

I've had this old model HF (gasp) sand blast cabinet for probably 10 years and it was to the point of needing a serious makeover. Cracked/dirty air hose, leaky fittings, poor lighting, gloves had holes and were leaky. 

















After a basic cleanup I got a new pair of gloves, installed LED lighting, new air hose and refreshed the pressure regulator and water filter, painted the stand. 





















































The last picture shows the air supply hose, the media supply hose isn't installed yet, bought the wrong size, duh.
Dave


----------



## Karda

good job


----------



## sansoo22

I don't have any pics but my experiment with the new HF blast cabinet and old Craftsman compressor was a partial success. Using 80 grit glass bead as my abrasive the Craftsman is a tad too weak to go at a plane body with no initial prep. Any weak spots where the finish is flaked or chipped it will strip the surrounding area bare in no time. But it stalls out when it gets to sections of good finish.

My follow up test was a couple cycles of Klean Strip and handheld wire brushes to loosen up the finish. Then I came back to the cabinet and got it down to bare metal with ease.

While its not the outcome I was hoping for I can work this into my process. It sure as hell beats wire brushes in the cordless or dremel. The finished surface just needs a good wipe down with acetone and you're ready to tape and paint. I am still very pleased with results and will be saving for a new compressor soon.


----------



## Thedustydutchman

Here's a craftsman no 5 I really shouldn't have messed with but I got it cheap and I like bringing tools back from the dead so why not. It was way to far gone to bring back to original so I did a bit of customization to make it look decent again. I'm lucky to have a cylinder head resurfacing sander at my work so I can get it reasonably flat with that.


----------



## KentInOttawa

Jerry, that's a remarkable improvement.


----------



## donwilwol

Nice job!


----------



## Karda

good save


----------



## drsurfrat

I have wanted a scrub plane with a milder camber than a No40, so decided to make a No5 dedicated to that. I found a body for $5 and had an extra blade set and lever cap. He took 2 weeks to ship "priority", and it showed up loose in a box.










Miraculously it didn't break, and the surfaces turned out to be in good shape.










It is a type 18, and since it's not going to be collectible, I didn't bother with black japanning. I have a toolbox in this brick red, so made this match. The tote horn is short, but it was the last piece of cocobolo I had, so made due. I have yet to regrind the iron, but I am pleased with its looks.


----------



## ac0rn

Looks nice and clean, well done.


----------



## Karda

nice job


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## sansoo22

I like that color combo. It looks really good with the rosewood handles. Much better than the cordovan or two tone stanley planes.

I had a plane show up today wrapped in carpet and then stuffed in a giant Amazon envelope. Somehow it survived the trip.


----------



## adot45

Nice job on your plane, that brick red looks good.



> I had a plane show up today wrapped in carpet and then stuffed in a giant Amazon envelope. Somehow it survived the trip.
> 
> - sansoo22


It drives me nuts when items are shipped that way…..that and sellers that charge for priority shipping and then don't ship for 5 or 6 days. ;-(


----------



## Mosquito

That's because ebay only cares about the tracking number. As long as a tracking number gets added within the ship time they don't care


----------



## bandit571

$5 Stanley No. 3, Type 11…..was a little dirty..



























It did have the "V" logo….









Sole had set a bit too long in one spot?

90 minutes in the Rehab Shop later…









getting there..









Maybe not all shiny….but, it does the job it was made for…


















Even on an Ash tabletop….


----------



## drsurfrat

Got the camber ground for that No5 scrub plane:










It is modern no-name iron, so we will see if it lasts longer than a few strokes. At least it took a nice edge.


----------



## adot45

More than a little dirty Bandit but you brought that baby back into service and can start a new, long life!


----------



## RWE

I picked up this Disston D4 10 inch plate at toothline, 13PPI a few weeks back. With some coaching from Bob Summerfield, I took a new approach to cleaning the handle.


















Bob recommended using Easy Off Oven cleaner to clear off the old finish. I did two coats, around 15 minutes each time, and would wash it off with water, let it dry before doing it again. Bob also recommended Oxalic acid to remove any stains in the wood. So I did one turn with that, but the wood was fairly clean after the Easy Off application. It is a USA Medalion, 1940's I think and the handle was in very good shape, just a split off of the top horn on the left side, but not enough to warrant a repair in my estimation.

I changed it from crosscut to rip filing with a progressive rake angle. First inch was very light, second inch more of my standard 15 degree rake, the rest was very aggressive. Still have to do a very light set. At 13 PPI, it is more a general duty saw but I hope to try it out with dovetailing.



















Very faint etch.


----------



## adot45

Sargent 408:


----------



## RWE

Nice work on that Sargent. Looks really good. I have a Sargent made Winchester smoother that is coming my way today and I think they are the same vintage.


----------



## adot45

Thank you RWE. Great job on your saw, looks super.


----------



## sansoo22

Sad plane









Happy plane









Shiny plane









Scratched plane…never set your micro fiber towel down on the same bench that has your grinder and surface plate.









Can't decide if I'm going to respray the body or list that #5 here on a "scratch and dent special"


----------



## bandit571

BARN SALE today! Bought a $10 Stanley No. 5 Jack plane…fellow included a Mortise gauge in the price..









More on the Jack plane at a later date….









Gauge needed a bit of clean up….although, them points are SHARP….damhikt….
Took the gauge apart….sanded the rough spots down…cleaned and shined the brass up….oiled the treads, after they were cleaned up…Gave the bare spots a coat of oil…









yep, them 2 points are still sharp…









Not sure which maker did the round slide spots….









Should be ready to go back to work….for a few more years?


----------



## RWE

If you run down some information on the maker of the marking gauge, post it back here. It is a beauty.

I am beginning to understand the phrase "Made out like a Bandit".


----------



## bandit571

Now, about that $10 Jack plane?









And the After..









Not quite to Sansoo"s standards?









About as good as I try to get..









Question being..









Barnes who…..Test drive?









Good enough for a Jack plane?


----------



## Karda

great job. wheres the lateral adjuster


----------



## bandit571

Haven't a clue….plane came home with me without one…..Maybe Old Man Barnes got rid of it? Seems to work just fine without it, though…


----------



## Notw

@sansoo22 what did you use for the orange on the lever cap?


----------



## sansoo22

> @sansoo22 what did you use for the orange on the lever cap?
> 
> - Notw


Model Masters Go Mango is a near perfect match if you can find it. I think its been discontinued. If you can't find Go Mango a good alternative is Testors Gloss Tangerine mixed with a little bit of their Gloss Red works as well.


----------



## Notw

Thank you


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Surfrat, that chipbreaker is much older than the plane is. Not too often do I see a Bailey marking on a breaker, either.


----------



## drsurfrat

Keen eye Smitty. Yes, it is. It was from my spare parts and clamped on to a blade that is at least 100 years newer. They stopped the stamp around 1892 or so.

I ran that new grind over about 6 sides of dirty oak, and it still catches my fingerprint, so I think it is good steel.


----------



## DanKrager

I've been wanting a sandblaster cabinet for a long time now, just a small one. Same problem as everyone else, not much room for one. Then I cam across a video showing a clever idea., fast, minimal cost, and stores easily.

Immagonnadoit.

DanK


----------



## HokieKen

Pretty slick Dan. Good way to conserve your media for reuse too.


----------



## RWE

Thanks Dan. Got my wheels turning. I have a small plywood wooden chest that I used as a kiln for drying green bowls after preliminary turning. I have it lined with insulation and had a light bulb and fan mounted in it. I never use it any more. I use a microwave now instead. I was out surveying the chest the other day and almost decided to throw it away, but held off on the impulse.

So I could put a glass top on it, keep the plywood lid so I can close it and protect the glass top. Otherwise use it with the modifications in the YouTube video to make it into a sandblasting cabinet.

The plywood chest has handles and can be stored easily in my garden shed, where it resides now.

I have gloves that I could use in it and I think PVC pipe would work for the hand slots and filter slots. I will look at PVC and see if you can get some that is threaded and could be coupled through the holes.

I've got another plane to blast and this makes a good project before I do that.


----------



## RWE

Here is my current "kiln" for green wood that I turn. As I stated above, I now use a microwave. So this guy will get repurposed into a blast cabinet.

For the record, it worked very well to reduce moisture levels so freshly turned green bowls could be brought to a stable moisture content and then worked again. The light bulb provided some heat and fan provided air movement.

Last week I toyed with the idea of throwing it out to recover some space. I am going to build a bigger garden shed this fall and should have room for it, plus some other stuff in my shop so that I can open up the shop a bit.

I can keep my media and blast gun in the box when not being used.


----------



## bandit571

Cheap, $1 hammer…









Nicks in the handle…nails for the wedge..









Ring shanked ones, at that…

$2.99 to rehab..









Handle has an improved grip..









Wood and steel wedges….ground down flush….most of the rust was wire wheeled off. Handle is an octagon shape….Hickory.


----------



## Karda

good save


----------



## Belg1960

> Got the camber ground for that No5 scrub plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is modern no-name iron, so we will see if it lasts longer than a few strokes. At least it took a nice edge.
> 
> - drsurfrat


Mike, what is your technique for Making the camber?


----------



## RWE

Not Mike, but just my thoughts. I have done similar cambers.

I have never tried free hand sharpening. I use the Veritas MKII jig and they have a camber roller that works well. Chris Schwarz had a video where he demonstrated using a shop made camber arc to lay out the camber you want and then to grind the edge to the line. I have a busted plane iron that I put such a camber on and I use it as a template, then sharpie the line on the iron edge.

At that point, you can ease the bevel with the grinder, staying away from the edge and get close to the edge and then go to the MKII jig to get the edge sharp. It is a matter of establishing a pattern of how you rock the iron side to side as you sharpen with the camber jig.

Schwarz would do a pattern of rocking back and forth and a figure eight pattern and do this free hand.

Anyone that can hand sharpen, I salute. I think it is something that you have to had grown into and I don't get that much sharpening time, so I have never mastered or attempted to master freehand. Would like to, just not in the cards for me.


----------



## ToddJB

Didn't have to reconstuct anything on this one, as I have had to in the past, just a real good clean, derust, and spit shine. It's missing its center drawer, but I use that cubby to store acid brushes for quick access, so I likely won't make one any time soon.


----------



## HokieKen

That's a pretty box Todd! Is that the remenants of a decal on the bottom drawer? Looks like maybe a Union?


----------



## ToddJB

Yes, decal. It's a Gerstner


----------



## HokieKen

Huh, cool. Never seen a Gerstner in that style. That's even better than a union  Congrats on the find!


----------



## drsurfrat

> Got the camber ground for that No5 scrub plane:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is modern no-name iron, so we will see if it lasts longer than a few strokes. At least it took a nice edge.
> 
> - drsurfrat
> 
> Mike, what is your technique for Making the camber?
> 
> - Belg1960


I have a regular 2-wheel grinder and I free hand it. I basically hold my finger in one spot, hold it against the support ledge and sweeping it back and forth, dunking it in water every few seconds without ever letting go of that spot. I used a sharpie to make the arc this time since it was so specific and aggressive - to make sure i didn't take too much off one side or the other. Just thought - I could have used a small C-clamp, that would have made it easier on my grip.


----------



## sansoo22

Found a new restoration method today. Use an arbor press to put lateral adjusters back on.










I taped the face and set it on the jaws of my vice to get the pin started just enough the adjuster hole would register. Then carefully position on press and drive it home.

Next thing I need is a piece of plate steel at least 1/4" thick and somewhere between 4" and 5" square with some roughly 7/16" holes strategically drilled in it. That will give me a much more solid registration surface. Once I get that plate figured out I think I will be taking these off for now on. Easier to paint and WAAAAY easier to flatten out tool marks on the surface plate.

Also pay no attention to the rest of that bench…I been busy restoring things so it gets messy real quick.


----------



## corelz125

I can get steel plate but I can't put 7/16" holes in it. Putting pins back in a frog is stressful i'm always waiting for that one hit to put a crack in the frog.


----------



## sansoo22

> I can get steel plate but I can t put 7/16" holes in it. Putting pins back in a frog is stressful i m always waiting for that one hit to put a crack in the frog.
> 
> - corelz125


I might take you up on that soon. I have to measure a few more planes with different style adjusters to see if I wanted graduated holes in it or maybe just a slot down the center. Then it will be on to begging Ken to maybe do some mill work for me.


----------



## corelz125

1/4" isn't bad to cut and drill through if you want to do it yourself. If Kenny is going to mill it I sent him plate awhile back that way it cuts a lot of shipping out.


----------



## HokieKen

I was just getting ready to say…. Send me a sketch Sansoo. Corelz already sent me the steel for it


----------



## corelz125

Was drilling through a 4" thick plate today and thought oh the fun Kenny would have with a piece of 4" plate


----------



## Notw

I've been thinking for my restorations it would be nicer to have something a little more dedicated for rust removal. Currently I am using a corded drill with a brass wire wheel but know keeping it on for long periods of time is not what it is designed for and eventually will kill it. Which led me to thinking of getting a 6" bench grinder and a dedicated brass wire wheel on one side and a polishing wheel on the other.

Does anyone have an recommendations of who makes good brass wire wheels for a 6" grinder or if anyone makes a set with a wire wheel and polishing wheel?


----------



## adot45

Stanley #4, Type 11


----------



## BlasterStumps

Very nice Adot, what did you put on the furniture, if anything?


----------



## adot45

> Very nice Adot, what did you put on the furniture, if anything?
> 
> - BlasterStumps


Thank You Blaster, I used Dupli-color acrylic lacquer on the wood.


----------



## Airframer

> I ve been thinking for my restorations it would be nicer to have something a little more dedicated for rust removal. Currently I am using a corded drill with a brass wire wheel but know keeping it on for long periods of time is not what it is designed for and eventually will kill it. Which led me to thinking of getting a 6" bench grinder and a dedicated brass wire wheel on one side and a polishing wheel on the other.
> 
> Does anyone have an recommendations of who makes good brass wire wheels for a 6" grinder or if anyone makes a set with a wire wheel and polishing wheel?
> 
> - Notw


Pretty sure Norton makes those for a 6 inch. I think that is what I have. However, I still use my drill press and smaller brass and steel wheels on it more than I do the grinder. Something about the geometry of tge larger wheels makes it really tough to get into many of the areas of a tool to get them good and clean. Plus I have found thw smaller finer wire wheels leave a smoother shinier surface than the largee wheels do. I like the idea of a dedicated spot. Maybe grab both a 6 inch grinder with the wire and buffer and a HF small drill press next to it specifically for brushing and polishing. The drill press doesn't have to be great just needs to spin. My two cents atleast.


----------



## HokieKen

Norton does make a wire wheel that's brass coated that I use on a 6" grinder. The HF wire wheel works well too for rough work but can be too coarse for some stuff. I also have an assortment of wire brushes for the drill press and a few for my angle grinder. The 6" is nice but like Eric, it's too big and wide to be a one-stop-shop.


----------



## Notw

So it looks like Norton is the way to go for the wire wheel side, any recommendations for a cloth wheel and compound for polishing on the other side?


----------



## HokieKen

I just buy the Harbor Freight stitched cotton wheels and green compound.


----------



## Airframer

Notw got me thinking. It would be nice to have a dedicated restoration and rust removal work station in the shop to keep the mess contained to one spot leaving my wood working surfaces mostly clean from grease etc.

I have had 2 of these old greenhouse tables sitting in my yard for a couple of years and today I figured one of them would be perfect for this. The top was trashed so I will make a new top. Nothing fancy just needs to be a table top to hold stuff.










I am currently cutting it back so it isn't so far out in the walkway.

I also need to remount the motor on my old HF 1/3hp drill press. It doesn't drill very straight anymore but will do fine for brushing things. Haven't quite figured out what to remount this with. The old spot welds let go on the housing










This will then allow me to keep my newer 1/2hp Craftsman clean and not looking like a poorly run machine shop.










Any ideas for mounting that motor? Lol. I was thinking pop rivets but not sure how much clearance is in the housing from the wall to the motor for the tail to fit in.


----------



## Johnny7

> Any ideas for mounting that motor? Lol. I was thinking pop rivets but not sure how much clearance is in the housing from the wall to the motor for the tail to fit in.
> 
> - Airframer


I'm thinking a couple of heavy-duty band clamps


----------



## RWE

> I ve been wanting a sandblaster cabinet for a long time now, just a small one. Same problem as everyone else, not much room for one. Then I cam across a video showing a clever idea., fast, minimal cost, and stores easily.
> 
> Immagonnadoit.
> 
> DanK
> - Dan Krager


Not a restoration, but a repurposing. DanK got me to thinking. I had held on to the old plywood chest that I used as a kiln for green bowls so I decided to make it into a blast cabinet. it is solid, I can stack stuff on it and it is out of the shop in the garden shed.

Before










After



















PVC 4 inch couplers made good hand holes and the Harbor Freight $9 gloves fit tightly over the couplers.



















Results: This is a little Stanley Defiance plane that was discussed back on the handplanes thread. Bandit had one that he was showing. This fellow was hidden on a shelf, so I resolved to refurb it. It has two posts cast into the body that serve as the "frog".


----------



## RWE

I have tried to research and find the best blast medium for removing japanning from planes. I doubt there is one answer but I will listen to anyone that has a strong opinion and some experience.

By happenstance, I am using coal slag. I am thinking glass pellets might be best. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## CaptainKlutz

Have randomly used media blasting for a few decades. 
Still not an expert, just a klutz sharing some info:

IME - Picking a blasting media is always a huge compromise. 
- Too hard and you remove too much base metal. 
- Too soft and removal takes days. 
- Too large of grit size and leave dents in the surface, or change part shape. 
- Too small of a size increases removal time. 
Type of base metal is important consideration. Cast iron is softer than alloy steel, while both are harder than aluminum or brass. The softer the base metal, the faster the removal rate and/or damage. 
You have to act like Goldilocks and pick one that is 'just right'; based the type of metal., allowable amount of damage (or unwanted thickness removal), and cutting speed.

Coal slag, aluminum oxide, or silica oxide (sand) is probably most aggressive. Using slag, or any oxide media is guaranteed to remove base metal, and will ruin the precision machined surfaces quickly. Sand tends to be least aggressive of the three.
The challenge with oxide removal is the amount of time spent on any given spot is never same. So you can easily have several thousands of inch difference across a surface, if gun is held too long on one spot. 
Before I would use these oxides on a part with machined surfaces, would tape or mask off the machined surfaces for protection. If you want to cry some time; use slag to remove rust on cast iron table saw top. The result will look surface of moon.

Glass beads are one of the best abrasives for removing paint/rust from metal. Cuts like oxide media, but it breaks apart when it hits hard base metal and this reduces the damage. If it hits softer paint surface, it will stay in tact to remove larger chunks. Glass beads degrade, but can be recycled several times. Cutting speed gets slower over time as they particles get smaller and edges round over. This reduction in cutting speed is also helpful, when you need to be more gentle on some parts. Glass beads are still too aggressive to be used on cast iron machined surfaces. I always tape off, or mask cast iron machined areas with glass beads. Glass bead media is my preferred type for any cast iron part, like hand plane or rebuilding old ARN.

Softer and safer blasting media for paint removal on thin metal is sodium bicarbonate. It will not easily remove base metal, but removes rust/paint quickly. Car restoration folks like it for use on vehicle sheet metal. Sodium bicarbonate only drawback is salinity. If you leave the residue on surface, residue absorbs moisture from ambient humidity and rust forms. So the 'salty' residue that must be rinsed, and metal force dried to avoid flash rusting.

The most gentle abrasive is walnut shells. It will remove japanning from a plane, and not distort the machine surfaces too much. Walnut shell media is often used to debur machined surfaces/edges, or leave satin finish on hard metals. It is also popular for precious metal jewelry etching.

Hope that helps.


----------



## KentInOttawa

Thank you for that synopsis, CaptainKlutz.


----------



## RWE

Thanks Captain. I am wondering if the "rinky-dink" equipment that I use mitigates the impact of the media a bit.

Dewalt
165 max PSI 6.0 gallon tank (22.7 L) and 2.6 SCFM delivered @ 90 PSI pump, enable long tool run time with quick recovery. · 75.5 dBA noise level

Cheapo Harbor Freight gravity feed gun.

I don't sense that the coal slag is too aggressive, but it may be that I am underpowered a bit with air flow. I just looked at the surface with a magnifier and it is somewhat rough, but I don't see much in the way of unevenness in the surface.

Based on your information above, I will move to glass beads when I get ready for the next project, just to try them out. The coal slag was not bad to work with in the blast cabinet, but I figure the bead material would be a bit friendlier and maybe not as dusty.


----------



## HokieKen

I use both Aluminum Oxide and Glass Bead at work. It really just depends on which cabinet doesn't have something in it when I go to use it. For blasting planes, either works fine for me to remove old enamel and clean up the cast surfaces.

Like Captain said though, AlOx is noticably more aggressive so it takes less time than glass bead to get the enamel off. But, being more aggressive, it also removes material faster and leaves less of a uniform look on the bare casting and machined surfaces. I don't bother with masking the machined surfaces any more but, I am careful not to hit them directly with the abrasive. I'm also careful to keep it out of threaded holes. and away from the mouth.

Glass bead is probably the better option. It's less aggressive and leaves a uniform matte finish for the most part. I don't really notice any difference after painting and/or polishing though so I wouldn't give it the nod just based on that. I also don't go to any great pains to keep it away from machined surfaces. It doesn't remove material fast enough for it to be a problem. In fact, with corrugated planes, I blast to soles to remove the rust and grime from down in the corrugations sometimes if it's really bad. If you do that though, get some wax or oil in there asap though to prevent rusting. Of course the trade off for it being generally easier to use is that it can take considerably longer to remove enamel and japanning. And, in some cases, it isn't aggressive enough to get spots that are stubbornly adhered.

For comparison, here's a plane I did with glass bead:









You can see a lot of black left in the pores of the cast iron that I still had to go back and clean up with a wire wheel.

And here's one done with AlOx









Almost 100% removal and in probably 1/2 the time. But I had to be careful not to alter machined surfaces with it too.

Also of interest is abrasive size. Both of the above media are approximately the same, somewhere around 220 grit. So don't think that grit size alone is a good indicator of how aggressive a media is.


----------



## BlasterStumps

I've got a MF18 that needs to be cleaned and redone. I don't have a sand blast setup yet but been toying with the idea lately. Might try making my own cabinet from a big plastic tub like some guys are showing on the Tube. The furniture on the 18 is not good either. The knob may be a little hard to make because of the base of it. Haven't attempted to make that style yet.


----------



## HokieKen

> ... The furniture on the 18 is not good either. The knob may be a little hard to make because of the base of it. Haven t attempted to make that style yet.
> 
> - BlasterStumps


It's not hard at all Mike. Just turn the knob like you would any other then put it in place and press down hard to make some indentions where the ribs are. Then take a small round file and start filing along the indentions. Don't use a triangle file or saw kerf. If you leave a sharp corner down there, you run the risk of splitting at the corner when you tighten it down in place. A small, round jeweler's file will negate that concern.


----------



## adot45

I've always just used Black Beauty and just vary the pressure to suit the job, but I have a large compressor. Most jobs are shot at 80-90 psi, 10 cfm. It looks like your HF gravity feed gun did a good job RWE.


----------



## RWE

I am content with the job the "rinky-dink" setup did. It is certainly more fun than paint stripper, which I used for years. I think the problem with paint stripper for me was flash rust after I used it. You had to go and start painting it almost immediately, after you cleaned it up.

This process has not produced any rust afterward, I guess because of the nature of the process and how it leaves the surface with a grey patina, but not to shiny metal.


----------



## HokieKen

Try not to touch the blasted surfaces RWE. The oil from you skin can cause flash rust to start. I generally try to go from blasting to cleaning with brake cleaner then acetone then right to painting asap just so I don't have to worry about removing rust again.


----------



## adot45

> I am content with the job the "rinky-dink" setup did. It is certainly more fun than paint stripper, which I used for years. I think the problem with paint stripper for me was flash rust after I used it. You had to go and start painting it almost immediately, after you cleaned it up.
> 
> This process has not produced any rust afterward, I guess because of the nature of the process and how it leaves the surface with a grey patina, but not to shiny metal.
> 
> - RWE


yep, I think it did a great job too. I've tried electrolysis and it does get the rust off but then trying to get that black stuff off took all the fun out of it for me.

Nothing rinky-dink about media coming out of a nozzle about a jillian mph….don't spray your glove!


----------



## sansoo22

You know what causes flash rust real quick even with a blast cabinet? Doing 3 planes in row and forgetting to check the catch can on the air dryer. Blow by when it gets full causes lots of problems…won't be forgetting that one again.


----------



## Airframer

I finally own an air compressor so I might look into one of the HF sandblasting rigs once they get the store open in my tiny town this August (this is the biggest news to hit here since McDs closed down for renovations lol)

Over here in my shop I just finished getting my resto bench built and partially set up. I do want to add a shelf to it but I am excited to have a spot that can and will get messy without me worrying about it being messy.

HF drill press is fixed. A little JB weld, some aluminum ducting tape and zip ties fixed it right up. *********************************** engineering at it's finest. Removed the base and the table so the mandrel can sit over the edge of the bench allowing me to chuck long rods in it to clean instead of having to use a hand drill. Also allows better clearance for longer planes etc.

I may cover the top with some thin aluminum at some point just to allow for easy cleanup but then again… probably won't lol.


----------



## RWE

I am not a big fan of Harbor Freight. I go there and buy selectively. I got burned on an air compressor that I bought and felt like the support and warranty was not what it needed to be.

So my policy is not to buy serious equipment from them, but sandpaper, supplies, misc. items, just none of their machinery. Your results may vary!

Point is, I would not get too excited about Harbor Freight except for things like blast cabinets and supplies that cannot break.


----------



## Airframer

I own a few things from there that see daily use. This drill press held on for a couple years before the motor mount broke. The spindle had some wander in it from the factory but nothing too unworkable. There are some hidden gems there like their clamps, motors etc. You kinda go into it knowing your purchase is a gamble but at the prices sometimes it's worth while


----------



## corelz125

RWE do you still have the compressor? Yep when you want something that need to be accurate or reliable HF is not my first choice.


----------



## RWE

> RWE do you still have the compressor? Yep when you want something that need to be accurate or reliable HF is not my first choice.
> 
> - corelz125


I have a young friend that is rapidly becoming a serious woodworker. I gave it to him. He is an engineer and was able to get a part and fix it. There was some problem in the electrical circuity that would not let it run in my shop without multiple times tripping the switch and letting all the air out. It would not hold air either. So my problem was that I used it so infrequently, that when I finally needed it to work, the very short warranty period had run. Just a piece of junk from the getgo. I bought it because a Bostich pancake oil-less had died on me (many years of service however, so a decent compressor) and I thought getting a model that used oil might be an improvement.

I love the new Dewalt however. I am doing a kitchen remodel, so having a pancake that you can lug around really pays dividends. Crown molding, hardwood floor patch etc. The Dewalt is oil-less but holds air well, and is very reliable.


----------



## bandit571

So….how would YOU rehab this "No. 5c" wannabee?


















Yes, it is the same footprint as a No. 5c….except for the adjustable mouth…









How do you buff one of these out?

Besides a SKIL HomeShop 6" Circular saw…all metal at that…I also picked this Master Craft saw…


















Has this interesting little "feature" 









depends on which way you install it, I guess…


----------



## sansoo22

> So….how would YOU rehab this "No. 5c" wannabee?
> 
> - bandit571


Considering my affinity for my buffer I would either end up with an electric plane that looks like a chrome plated rocket ship…or a box of shiny parts. Either way its coming apart.


----------



## corelz125

This is the summer of kitchen renos? Just read Smittys blog. I'm in the middle of one to. I watched a video where the guy hooked up a broken compressor as a reserve tank to another compressor to use with a sand blaster. If it didn't hold air then it wouldn't work.


----------



## Airframer

I think I have got my restoration station in a functional state now. Found a bag of small metal clips in a box and decided to install them all around the bench to hold small part bags to keep them up, organized and out of the way. Works like a charm!





































I still am considering rolling some shellac or poly on the mdf top just to keep it from getting water or oil damage. Or may still go the aluminum route. That one is considerably more spendy though.


----------



## Karda

that is too neat and organized and looks great


----------



## Airframer

Give me a couple days…. It will be a disaster area in no time lol


----------



## Karda

ok then


----------



## Notw

Looking good AirFramer, i really like to use these for small parts.


----------



## HokieKen

I like the idea on the clips for holding baggies. If I put them on the front of the bench though, I'd have baggies spilling everywhere because I leaned on the clips… And scotchbrite everywhere! A man after my own heart ;-)

Might I suggest some Formica on your top? I put Formica on MDF with contact adhesive for the tops on my DP table and router table. Over 5 years later, it's still undamaged and stuck fast. And glue/stain/paint/whatever just pops or wipes right off. It ain't pretty but it's functional.


----------



## Airframer

Kenny, that is what I was thinking with the aluminum covering. I can get a roll of 20 inch wide aluminum flashing for around 30 bucks at hd. I was thinking some contact cement and a piece of that rolled on would not only look pretty sweet but also do well to prevent any top damage and make it a wipeable surface. Could easily be done down the road so it's still on the todo list. However everyone knows that a Temporary solution normally becomes permanent in the end so lol…


----------



## KentInOttawa

I bought a "maple mitre box" with a used saw on eBay based only on this picture and a gut feel.










After it arrived today I gave it a little attention. Allow me to introduce you to my new Rob't Sorby brass-backed 14" 10 PPI rip tenon saw. With just some light grunge removal I was able to determine what I had and that it was well worth the US$10 + shipping that I paid.

(Edit: 5 photos have gone AWOL, but the "new" LJ software allows edits after all this time, so I can update the old post with photos from then. @Jeremy11 liked the post, and I noticed the missing photos).



























Giving it a few test cuts was quite a revelation. It cut straight, quickly and cleanly, although the residue from my cleaning is currently messing with the results.



















The results amazed me. I know that this one's a keeper.


----------



## Karda

nice find, how come all the nice find I find have out of sight shipping or are from the UK where shipping is wayyyyy out of sight


----------



## theoldfart

Kent, good eye. Always explore a saw with split nuts. If the price is low but you have doubts I think it's worth the risk.


----------



## Karda

how do you rehab a saw with split nuts


----------



## RWE

I took an old putty knife, ground it to a proper size, cut a slot so I could use it as a screwdriver for split nuts. I think Blackburn may sell one.

Split nuts can be very soft. So proceed with caution. They are hard to replace and you can damage them easily. Each saw is different, so yours may not be a problem. But if you don't get a proper tool to loosen them, you will ruin the saw. If they are difficult, then you are better off leaving the handle alone and just do the bet you can.


----------



## Karda

thats what I thought thanks


----------



## drsurfrat

> how do you rehab a saw with split nuts
> - Karda


 After you're done, give it two test tickles?


----------



## Karda

ok I can do


----------



## RWE

> how do you rehab a saw with split nuts
> 
> - Karda


Presenting for your viewing pleasure, a very rare tool, veritable "Foundry Grade". The RWE Split Nut Saw screwdriver:

Kenny, eat your heart out. You have to admire the fine craftsmanship.



















Karda, this actually works well enough. If the split nuts resist breaking free with something the equivalent of this, making sure there is a good fit in the slot, then I would put off trying to remove them. They will break and twist. Been there, done that. Not fun.

Grind down the old putty knife sides, shorten the length. Hacksaw the slot, then file the slot flat.


----------



## HokieKen

I once clamped two screwdriver shafts together in a pair of vice grips to be a split nut driver RWE. Your's puts me to shame!


----------



## donwilwol

I once made a quicky split nut driver by cutting up a utility knife blade and driving it into a handle. The back notches are perfect spacing and the sharp end drives into the handle


----------



## bandit571

Mine was made from a 1/2" spade bit…..then used a hex driver….the handle can hold any bit with a hex shaft. A little fine tuning to get the match for the slots…









Bit can then be removed, and the two pieces can be stored…









Something to be on the lookout for….Patent Dates under the nuts….









Have to be very careful….


----------



## KentInOttawa

> Kent, good eye. Always explore a saw with split nuts. If the price is low but you have doubts I think it's worth the risk.
> 
> - theoldfart


Thanks Kevin. With only a $10 BIN price, split nuts and a lamb's tongue, I figured that there was a better than even chance of doing okay. So I went for it.



> how do you rehab a saw with split nuts
> 
> - Karda


Generally, I don't although there may come a day… As I understand it, there was no standard size for the split nuts so pretty much every different saw may need a different-sized split-nut driver than what you already have. Bandit's solution using an old spade bit as a starting point is what I would do. I would also press down and try to tighten the screw first, maybe even using some light taps to break the corrosion and crud loose first. If there was any movement then you have a good chance of working in some mineral oil as you work the screw back off and then back on, each time trying to get a little further. Use finesse versus speed and BF&FI; the nuts and bolts are fragile and old.


----------



## Karda

thanks i don't have one but i was wondering. I bought a miter saw with split nuts but, the handle wasn't bad just need ed cleaning and light sanding. I sold it, if it was a user for me I wouldn't have bought one with split nut unless it was very special


----------



## theoldfart

These were "Found in the Wild" goodies. All the restoration credit for the top four goes to Bob Summerfield.










From the top, Biggins, Groves, Groves, Beardshaw and finally Disston(not a split nut but beautiful handle).
The Groves tenon saw was just a handle find. Luckily the nuts were with it. Bob made the plate and fitted the spine during the restore. I tend to look for handle shapes when I scan saw piles! These are the payoff. No more than $5 or less a piece at the flea markets and tag sales.


----------



## Karda

Nice bunch of saws, I do the same with the handles


----------



## 33706

> nice find, how come all the nice find I find have out of sight shipping or are from the UK where shipping is wayyyyy out of sight
> 
> - Karda


Kent has undoubtedly discovered that shipping charges to Canada can be surprisingly low from Great Britain. Often better than similar shipping from the US to Canada. Sometimes I'll include "United Kingdom" in my search results, I've got some surprising finds from Sorby, Ibbotson, and other planes, chisels and carving tools this way.


----------



## KentInOttawa

> nice find, how come all the nice find I find have out of sight shipping or are from the UK where shipping is wayyyyy out of sight
> 
> - Karda
> 
> Kent has undoubtedly discovered that shipping charges to Canada can be surprisingly low from Great Britain. Often better than similar shipping from the US to Canada. Sometimes I ll include "United Kingdom" in my search results, I ve got some surprising finds from Sorby, Ibbotson, and other planes, chisels and carving tools this way.
> 
> - poopiekat


I've found shipping charges are almost always a significant part of the total cost. I cancelled a 5 pound purchase this morning because of a 58 (!!!) pounds shipping cost. Um, no. A well-informed UK seller can get something to me for about half what an American could but oft-times sellers have no clue about what they're selling or how big it is, so they let eBay figure it out and round-up all their size and weight estimates a lot. $$$$$.

My recent CAD$12.45 from PA cost me another $30 for shipping. Another $50 saw is being shipped from WA State for an additional $58. Much of those shipping costs are due to eBay's International Shipping Program which effectively ships everything twice. My 45 pound mitre jack shipped directly from the UK and cost just 40 pounds to ship.

I definitely read the fine print before I commit. I've also started paying more attention to the CAN I HAVE IT Vintage Tool Auction and Sales Group on FB. Prices are all across the board but shipping is generally much more reasonable.


----------



## Karda

i agree with you there, I am in that auction group and pirate ship is cheaper than usps


----------



## corelz125

Pirate ship gives you eBay's so called shipping discount. It's just a commercial rate. I've had problems with eBay not charging the correct amount. To fet the best rate you just have to figure out which will be the cheapest rate. I'll always use the best way to ship and not rely on eBay.


----------



## Karda

I have compared private ship to USPS and noticed the rate are significantly less, now that is what I use


----------



## corelz125

If you go to tge post office or from the USPS website you get robbed.


----------



## KentInOttawa

> i agree with you there, I am in that auction group and pirate ship is cheaper than usps
> 
> - Karda


I'm saving a lot because it's only being packaged and shipped once, unlike stuff on eBay. PA to me in Ottawa isn't so bad. PA to Erlanger, KY and then to me is about triple the distance and double the cost.


----------



## Karda

yea that can add up


----------



## jtrz

Hey guys.first post in a while and need some advice. Visiting my brother in Long Island and wanted to restore this really nasty Stanley no 5 he acquired. I'm not here long and don't have tons of time so decided to go the vinegar route instead of my preferred method of oil and abrasives. Vinegar has worked for me before just fine but this time it has left a super rough surface on everything. It feels like sand paper. Not sure if the vinegar is totally to blame or if the rust was even worse than I thought and this is just epic micro pitting.

The rough surface on the steel (iron, cap iron, etc) can be cleaned up with some elbow grease. The cast iron is so bad however even elbow grease and aggressive grits are barely denting it. I'm tempted to just gently hit the sides with the orbital or a belt sander to see if that can do anything.

So guys and gals, is this a lost cause? Anyone run into this sort of extremely rough surface after rust removal? I've never failed at a plane restoration. Of course now that I'm restoring one that isn't mine it's a disaster.

Thanks for any advice or suggestions. And FYI plane has no monetary, historic or sentimental value.


----------



## HokieKen

Yes Jeff, I'd hit the sides with whatever you need to in order to get to a surface your happy with. The sole is the exception to that. If it's similarly rough, you'll need to be methodical to keep it flat. I have run into the same issue before using phosphoric acid instead of vinegar. But the end result is the same. The rust ran deep and the acid converted it. But you're left with a rough surface due to the pitting.

Another option if you have access to sandblast it with some fairly aggressive media. It will knock down the high spots and leave a more uniform surface. Basically like sanding on steroids. But keep the abrasive away from machined surfaces if you go that route.


----------



## drsurfrat

^ what he said 

I have an old block plane that has the similar dimpling. pits so dee they change the surface. I like it, so maybe just use it to your advantage and leave it as a non standard texture. for a jack, even the sides don't need to be anything particularly flat for use, so the only real issue is the sole and mating surfaces. Perhaps a camp or the dye pattern, or maybe the old bookmakers floating swirl called Paper Marbling on wikipedia. I have wanted to try this, but can't devise a way to float the paint swirls and dip an entire plane. 
I guess that isnt something you'll do on a weekend visit, though.


----------



## jtrz

Thanks guys. I am pretty sure the reason I've never run into this before is because I've always passed on planes that were in as bad a shape as this one. It's definitely just pitted to a degree I never thought possible. But I thought what a great Father's Day slash birthday present for my bro. And it's a Stanley 5 just like my first resto.

The metal is so pitted it feels like 80 grit sandpaper. Anyways I worked one side for about an hour. scotchbrite pads then 120 grit then 80 grit then a RO sander then finally a belt sander with 80 grit. It's finally somewhat smooth but still pitted. Workable.

Spent 30 minutes on the sole. And yeah I did hit it briefly with the belt sander. It left large piles of fine black dust like someone just poured out some gunpowder. The sole still feels like an emery board. I can get it smooth just not sure I can do it and keep it somewhat flat. Not to mention that the frog is in the same condition. Just like you were saying Mike. All about the mating surfaces.

I'm gonna put a little more time in and then make the call whether or not to call it quits. He's got a no 4 that just needs a little work to be in working order. Gotta leave his shop a better place than I found it.


----------



## Karda

how are the rest of the parts, If they are good look another junk #5 with a good body. Or use the one you have for a scrub plane


----------



## drsurfrat

> The metal is so pitted it feels like 80 grit sandpaper.
> - jtrz


Wow.

Maybe that is what it should be - a manual random orbital sander - no blade required.


----------



## Lazyman

Vinegar is too strong IMO. I used evaporust on this one and while nothing will fix the really deep pitting, it didn't take much to clean off the converted rust to get it smooth.
Did your brother's look worse than this?








The sole was about the same as the sides with perhaps slightly more pitting but not as bad as the iron. 









After










After about 24 hour soak, I used fine wet/dry sandpaper to remove the patina left by the evaporust.


----------



## HokieKen

Thata lot of work for a Lakeside Nathan but it's good to see you've caught the bug  keep em coming! Damn fine work on that furniture. That knob is like a boob - I dunno whether to just admire it or touch it.


----------



## jtrz

> Did your brother's look worse than this?
> The sole was about the same as the sides with perhaps slightly more pitting but not as bad as the iron.
> - Lazyman


I think we had reverse conditions going on. The bed, all 4 sides, I would rate as bad as your iron. I don't think I would have touched this thing if the iron on it looked as bad as your before picture.

Great job on that restore! Can't believe you salvaged the blade on that thing.


----------



## Karda

I finally found some planes but they are economy. low angle block plains, the dark one is a shelton the smoother is a #3 size made by Hudson Forge does any body know anything about those 2 the other is un named


----------



## Karda




----------



## Lazyman

A cheap old Dunlap makeover. My wife bought this for me at an estate sale for $15


























After sanding the finish off the wood, it was pretty boring so I used some Transtint dye to give it some bling. I started with just a trace coat of dark walnut dye to hopefully pop the grain but it was still pretty boring so I hit with a little red.










This was my backup plan in case my entry for the plane swap did not go well.


----------



## RWE

Very nice job.

I am getting too old and my memory is bad, but some of the Dunlap's were made by Sargent if I am remembering correctly. Did you figure out what company made that one? Looks like a Sargent lateral adjuster style, but it is hard to see. I may have to try some of the Transtint now. I only have black for mixing with epoxy. May have to add some more colors.


----------



## Lazyman

It has the same frog as the as this one on Don's website which if I am reading it correctly is a Sargent design.

I use the dark walnut Transtint dye a lot. It is great for trace coating to pop boring grain when I don't want black and I have used it with GF water based stains to "brown them up" when they are too red. I've even used it instead of a stain with just an amber shellac on top, though it is easy to get it too dark because you cannot wipe it off like you can with stain. I use other colors too when I really want to add some crazy color.


----------



## bandit571

> I finally found some planes but they are economy. low angle block plains, the dark one is a shelton the smoother is a #3 size made by Hudson Forge does any body know anything about those 2 the other is un named
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smoother smell a bit like a Stanley Tu-Tone…..Shelton Block is a No. 18 ( a knock-off/copy of a Stanley No. 118)
> 
> - Karda


----------



## bandit571

> - Karda


Not quite sure…thinking somewhere between a Buck Brothers ( Home Depot brand) and a Great Neck…..could be both…..it's that cross-hatched pattern on the cap iron, and the shape of the front knob…..that Phillips bolt don't help, either…


----------



## HokieKen

Nice work on the Dunlap Nathan! IIRC it is either made by Sargent or Millers Falls. I don't recall anyone else making planes for Dunlap.

The frog is the easiest way to tell them apart. MF made Dunlaps have XXDBB part numbers.


----------



## bandit571

Stanley also won a contract for Dunlap planes….


----------



## 33706

> - Karda


That #3, to me looks like a Stanley Two-Tone. Is the cutter stamped 'Hudson Forge' or is there other evidence that the plane is truly a Hudson Forge?


----------



## ac0rn

Nathan, Looks like your trying to give sansoo a run for the money.
Very nice.


----------



## Karda

I haven't been able to find any other writing other than made in USA the bed is blue. the wood color is a redish purple


----------



## sansoo22

> Nathan, Looks like your trying to give sansoo a run for the money.
> Very nice.
> 
> - Jeff


I was thinking the same thing. Very nice work on that Dunlap Nathan!


----------



## donwilwol

> It has the same frog as the as this one on Don s website which if I am reading it correctly is a Sargent design.
> 
> - Lazyman


That frog style is definitely Sargent. I know I may be a little prejudice, but I think that design is the best made user of it's time. The blades could be a little thicker, but they work. By then, all the major manufacturer had gone to trying cheaper and cheaper and Sargent found a cheaper design that actually worked. Again, just my opinion.


----------



## Lazyman

Thanks guys. My experience with this Dunlap so far is that it is definitely a good user, even without adding a thicker blade. This one wasn't really too much work to clean up-one of the easiest clean ups I have done so far. A few passes on some wet/dry sandpaper got it shining fast and the sole was already nice and flat. The rust was more of a patina with no major pitting. In fact, I think that someone had actually spayed a coat of varnish over it or something. It was probably sitting on someone's mantle or something as decoration. The only issue is that the edge is not quite square to the sides so the adjuster is way off to one side but since it works , I decided not to mess with it for now.


----------



## Karda

it was mostly crafts but found some tool. I got an old egg beater drill, a tri square and 2 different small size Jacobs chuck made for a brace and 2 braces. the egg beater and the chuck did need work but the braces did. the first one, with red wood is unmarked the one in bad shape is a Stanley 975. How do you unfreeze a brace ratchet.


----------



## Johnny7

> How do you unfreeze a brace ratchet.
> 
> - Karda


Penetrating oil and patience.


----------



## theoldfart

^+1
Lots of patience!


----------



## Karda

ok thanks


----------



## donwilwol

> ^+1
> Lots of patience!
> 
> - theoldfart


I've added heat when I ran out of patience. Not much though, the springs will loose temper


----------



## Karda

ok


----------



## Karda

finally I ma finished with the 2tone and the Shelton. I google Stanley 2 tone and found one on ebay. The only difference I could see is the lateral adjuster, on the Stanley one piece with a twisted thumb pad on the Hudson thumb pad is folded making a 2 sided pad.Top is before:


----------



## bandit571

Ok…the "Before"..( Hide yer eyes, Mabel!)









just a little Krusty?









A few scratches…









managed to get a lower price, though…$12.45, I think…









Might take a while?









Maybe…

And the "After"...









And the sole..









Scratches cleaned up nicely enough…iron had a large chip in it's edge ( from a nail?)









Millers Falls No. 9, Type 3…...maybe around 1942 era? Still had the Brass wheel, but..









had the one piece, blued steel bolts for the handles…with the blue mostly either worn off, or rusted up in the handles..

Not too bad of a plane?









For the price…and about 90 minutes of shop time….?


----------



## CFrye

Nicely done Bandit!


----------



## Karda

nice job


----------



## HokieKen

That was a helluva deal Bandit!


----------



## Brit

It lives!


----------



## HokieKen

Cross posting this from the HPOYD thread in case someone who follows this thread and not that one has some good advice 



> Question for the brain trust on a tote repair:
> 
> I m plugging away on my #24 restoration and one of the major flaws was a busted horn on the tote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I cut a piece of Cocobolo that looked to be a decent color match based on the already milled faces and epoxied it on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, after a little bandsaw work and belt grinding to rough shape, it s an atrocious match as far as color…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It s got a lot of the pinkish-reddish color rather than the brownish-orangish of the tote. Cocobolo darkens in color with time (as evidenced by the milled face fooling me so thoroughly) but in my experience, the colors like the repair piece I used tend to a deep red color while the tote is a deep brown color.
> 
> So, I m not convinced that this repair is ever going to blend like I want it to. So, questions are:
> 
> 
> Anyone have experience staining or dying Cocobolo? In the past, I ve used gel stains to darken repaired sections to better match the original wood but never on anything as oily as this.
> Think it s going to darken to match pretty closely and I should just leave it alone?
> Think it s never going to blend well and I should either start over on the repair or just make a whole new tote and stick this one in the spare parts?
> Other?


----------



## Notw

is making a whole new handle out of the question?


----------



## Notw

Not sure if this counts as a restoration as much as it does a transformation since it technically didn't need restoring. I bought a Stanley No. 199 utility knife after seeing a guy named Matt Lepper on Instagram (thetoolengraver) show some of his engravings on one. The knife is made of aluminum and comes painted in a matte gray so first step was paint removal and filing all the rough casting as smooth as possible. Next I sanded from 150 to 1,000 grit then polished with white compound and red rouge. The paint was done by hand with a tiny brush and Testors model paints. Thinking about doing another one and using different paints, I didn't like the way the Testors came out.

Enough yapping, here is a picture offline of the knife before.









And here is after I finished playing with it.


----------



## HokieKen

No, it's a backup plan Notw. But I'd prefer to keep the original.


----------



## HokieKen

WOW, that knife is badass!!!!


----------



## controlfreak

That knife does look great! I have something similar to do with a plane so I ask. Where the raised letters are did you paint around or sand off the tops to reveal the clean look on the high spots?


----------



## Notw

Thanks HokieKen. Ps Mountaineers suck

ControlFreak, for the letters I stayed as close as possible to painting within the lines, anywhere that it went over I scraped it off with a razorblade. I tried simply sanding it off but I'm not sure if the paint hadn't cured enough (I had left it for 48hrs) or what but the paint collected a lot of the aluminum dust and turned the black more gray, so I painted another couple of coats and then used the razor blade.


----------



## Karda

great job look to pretty to use


----------



## HokieKen

Yep, WVU is on my craplist Notw.

controlfreak - if you're doing something like a lever cap, I always mask around the outside of the recess, and shoot paint covering letters as well as the recess then sand the paint off the top. Never been a problem. If you have nickel plating you're trying to preserve, just use really fine sand paper and leave the masking on when you sand.


----------



## Notw

I agree with Ken, I think spray paint it more durable than the testors enamel, i went with it because it is $2 a bottle and i was seeing how it would come out.


----------



## controlfreak

While I am at it Kenny, The nickel plating needed to go (flaking) so I hit it with a brass wire wheel but some remains. Should I go to steel wheel?


----------



## HokieKen

I would. If the steel wheel on the grinder won't take it off, it's hanging on pretty tight. After the steel wheel, hit it again with the brass to refine the scratch pattern. It'll save a little time sanding and polishing.


----------



## drsurfrat

I got a collection of rust with some steel inside. It looked like someone had generously applied battery acid to these things before submerging in rainwater for a couple months. It turned out that there was actual tool under the sckudge. It doesn't hold a candle to Kenny/Josh/Jason/Nathan standards, but it is a useful recovery.










not this plane, but the condition of all parts in this batch.


















It is a WWII era No 4, very much original, consistent parts.
I got lucky w the stain; I put it on thick with a pad, let it dry, then buffed it until the grain showed up. Coated with oil based polyurethane. I dislike stain, but it seems pretty close to what they did in the era. The paint (not Japan) is gloss, so not so subtle. The sole and sides are lapped a bit, but no way were the pits coming out without going down to foil thicknesses. Same w the blade, pitting will keep this iron as a 'fore plane - as in "before you get to the fine work". It still pleases me to look at it, so that's a minor success.


----------



## HokieKen

Looks mighty fine from here Mike! That wood looks fantastic


----------



## corelz125

Nice save Mike. Furniture came out good.


----------



## Brit

That's an excellent restoration Mike. Well done.


----------



## theoldfart

Mike, given your starting point, damn good results.


----------



## Lazyman

Wow. Pretty impressive recovery.


----------



## Notw

Looks awesome to me, especially after seeing the pile of goop you started with. job well done


----------



## sansoo22

Not a true before and after but for those interested in blasting on the fairly inexpensive path I achieved the above results with my recently upgraded Harbor Freight blast cabinet and 4.9 CFM (if you believe Craftsman) compressor. I'm using 70 grit black oxide media at 60 PSI. I wouldn't use that media if I had a proper compressor but I don't and it works without damaging any machined surfaces.









Blast cabinet with recent mods. Left the air hose long in case I want to go with a foot pedal gun instead of a trigger style.









Old ********************ty

Very good chance I burn up the compressor but I'm fine with that. I want a bigger one anyone anyway but no excuse to buy one unless this one dies. If anyone is interested in all the parts and pieces to make this work I can do a blog write up. I should have images and links to everything I used still.


----------



## Lazyman

Nice restoration, Mike.

Sansoo, does the shop vac clear the air in the cabinet well enough?.


----------



## sansoo22

> Sansoo, does the shop vac clear the air in the cabinet well enough?.
> 
> - Lazyman


The shop vac and dustopper setup does a fantastic job. I don't have any issues with visibility due to dust. My next upgrade is to fix the visibility issues caused by the cheap plastic in the view port. The top layer got scratched by just using the bristle brush on the shop vac to clean it off.


----------



## bandit571

This is what came in the door last week end….









Amongst others…Task was to rehab this one, and send it back…
soooo..









This is what went back out the door…









Stanley No. 4, Type 11…..that someone else had replaced the low knob with a Tall knob…( not me)..









And..









Making shavings in Ash…


----------



## TxSurveyor

Restoration question…

Do any of you use a belt sander or angle grinder? Or are you all hand sanding purists? lol

I figured a flapper wheel on an angle grinder would make short work of the sides with a little hand sanding to clean up the swirls.

I would love to use a belt sander to lap the base, but I don't have a belt sander that would make contact across the whole base at once. The thought of sanding for ages to lap the base is not an appealing part of the restoration to me.


----------



## sansoo22

I'm a hand sanding purist. If I had a belt sander or more preferably something like a 6×80 edge sander I would not hesitate to use one for lapping. I would have to fine tune my process on a couple spare plane bodies I have lying around but both of those tools are actually on my want list.


----------



## HokieKen

I use belt sanders occasionally on small planes. It's never been worthwhile on larger planes to me. If I can't keep the whole face in contact, it just leads to extra time spent lapping. YMMV of course. For the sides, as long as the plane won't be for shooting, you can use whatever makes it go fastest since it doesn't necessarily need to be flat or square.


----------



## donwilwol

I have an old craftsman belt sander with a cast iron base. It works well. I always finish/verify by hand, but there is very little needed after it.


----------



## RWE

I use a Porter Cable Restorer (essentially a portable hand held drum sander) with the Scotchbrite type drum on the sides of my planes, also the irons and chip breakers. You don't get the swirl marks and other marks as badly, since it is hand held and you move it around as you need to.

I am not in the Sansoo school on really shiny sides, more of Bandit disciple. I want the old plane to look old, just not have any rust. If I collected the later types, I would go all Sansoo, but I try to get the very early types and I like them to have a bit of patina. I am working on a Defiance that I am going full Sansoo on, but it is more for the challenge and the fact that it will go on the shelf to be admired.

If you work with handsaw restoration, the Restorer is great on a saw plate as well, as long as you are not trying to preserve an etch.


----------



## sansoo22

> If you work with handsaw restoration, the Restorer is great on a saw plate as well, as long as you are not trying to preserve an etch.
> 
> - RWE


Thanks for the tip on using the restorer for saw plates. I have a couple to do and was racking my brain how I was going to do that quickly. Hand sanding seemed like it would take forever and both the plates I currently have are well past preserving the etch on them.


----------



## HokieKen

Scotchbrite is your friend. I have a Scotchbrite wheel for my Worksharp and a couple of Scotchbrite belts for my belt grinder. They get used for lots of stuff.


----------



## CaptainKlutz

> Restoration question… Do any of you use a belt sander or angle grinder? Or are you all hand sanding purists? lol
> - TxSurveyor


Can use a belt sander. Have to be careful of grit choice, and works best if working platen size under the belt supports the entire plane base.

+1 6×80 edge belt sander 
Cast iron has fast removal rate. Use 120-150 grit on planes that need a lot of correction, but 220 cuts slower and is safer starting grit for Klutz like me. Larger grit can do some serious damage if you don't keep the plane perfectly square to belt.

As mentioned above, sides are not required to be square to bottom on most planes. BUT Make sure your sides are exactly 90° to bottom along entire length, before using the a table/platen as reference for bottom. Twisted sides are more common than you might realize.

Also don't want the end of base to ride against the end stop of belt, as this forces that end of plane down and removes material unevenly. Which does exactly opposite of the intended purpose. BTDTGTTS

Best Luck.


----------



## Thedustydutchman

There is a scotchbrite wheel for the worksharp??? I must get one of those!

I use a cylinder head resurfacing sander at work to do my initial flattening on planes then hand done after that. I use a wire wheel for rust removal.


----------



## HokieKen

> There is a scotchbrite wheel for the worksharp??? I must get one of those!
> ...
> 
> - Thedustydutchman


Well, good luck. Here it is but, everywhere I looked, it says "out of stock" or "discontinued". Seems like they love discontinuing stuff for these machines. Guess I better use mine sparingly…


----------



## Thedustydutchman

Thanks! I could probably make one of those.

And yes, they do love to discontinue stuff for these. I wanted a wide blade attachment forever but no luck so I just built one.


----------



## DanKrager

This may be a reasonable substitute for surface conditioning, probably not for worksharp though. These be modified for worksharp use?

There's a lot of variety out there.

DanK


----------



## corelz125

Dan I bought a couple of those for a die grinder. Ones i bought are a little 2 aggressive for me. I try to stay away from the 4" angle grinder. You can do damage with them. For the sides i bought a HF detail sander. I figure if its going to get full of metal dust burning out a HF sander is no big loss. I'm with the others I lap the sole by hand.


----------



## KentInOttawa

> This may be a reasonable substitute for surface conditioning, probably not for worksharp though. These might be modified for worksharp use?
> 
> There s a lot of variety out there.
> 
> DanK
> 
> - Dan Krager


Fixed the second link for you.


----------



## HokieKen

Those could be made to work on the Worksharp Dan but it would probably work even better to put them on a ROS and take the tool to the plane instead of visa versa. The only planes I do on the Worksharp are block planes. I do occasionally use it to clean up lever caps with a little nickel still hanging on. It's not as fast as a wire wheel but I can remove tbe nickel and save the red paint in the recess behind the name at the same time.

And if your plane doesn't have red paint in tbe recess on the lever cap, you have the wrong plane ;-)


----------



## sansoo22

> And if your plane doesn't have red paint in tbe recess on the lever cap, you have the wrong plane ;-)
> 
> - HokieKen


Depends on what the challenge is. If we want to test which survives falling off a workbench I have one with gold infill that wins hands down. The downside is if its not flat I don't have a tool in my shop that's going to lap forged steel worth a damn. I can polish it real well and pretend its still nickel finished though.


----------



## bandit571

Plane that flies off the bench and survives?









Has done it twice..so far…









A Shelton No. 18 block plane….decided to box it up, after that..

Red Paint?









Apparently, Stanley used a spot of red…









Made in England No.4 c..









My only Stanley No. 4c….so..which red paint?









Hmmm..


----------



## bandit571

While sorting through the Plane Tils…found yet another Stanley No. 5 jack plane….rosewood handles, and 3 patent dates…..rear tote has a badly repair crack…...Is having 5 Stanley No. 5 Jack plane excessive?

Along with a No. 5-1/4 and two No. 5-1/2s ( 1 smooth sole, 1 "c" model)

Beginning to think jacks are as bad as Block planes and Mice…..don't leave 2 alone…..at the very least, keep them separated…..

Is it even possible to have too many planes?


----------



## bandit571

We had work to do, tonight…from this ugly thing..









Rusty & Krusty…









Handle got re-shaped…not the best, but better than that other "Thing" 









Maybe? Removed the rust from the blade of the saw…no etch? WS saw…









Spline was sticking way up in the back…mallet to correct that…

Saw is a 4" x 16" WS. came with a Millers Falls Mitre box..









Asking price?









Managed to just pay a dollar….model number?









I think I just MIGHT be older than this one…maybe?


----------



## sansoo22

Bandit - I think you might be right about the jack planes. I currently have 14 of them in the #5 size. Only 8 of them are Stanley though. I think 2 in the #5-1/2 size and 2 more #5-1/4s.

There is at least one transitional jack plane around here somewhere too.

I have not bought a plane since June though…at least that I remember buying that is.


----------



## HokieKen

Millers Falls #24 (Stanley #8 size) Type 2. Blog series on the restoration is here.

*Before*









*After*


----------



## DLK

My eyes my eyes …. it too bright…

Very nice job Kenny.


----------



## donwilwol




----------



## donwilwol




----------



## sansoo22

Restored this one awhile ago and forgot I had a before picture. For those who like the before and after here you go.


----------



## CFrye

Impressive make-overs Kenny and Sansoo!


----------



## DLK

Buck Rodgers Jack plane (Miller Falls 714.)

*Befor*










*After*










*Notes*

This time I began by installing a retorer drum on a 1/2 inch carriage blot over a roller blade bearing into MDF.




























This was the result:










Then I polished with 80 grit through 6000 grit micro-mesh and polished with auto sol.

The bakelite knob and handle where polish with micro mesh to 6000 and wiped with denatured alcohol quickly dried with paper. I probably should have sanded out more of the scratches.

I did not do any painting. Maybe I'll do that on a later day.

The iron was sharpened on CBN worksharp disks. I am not sure I like them. I may re-sharpen with my oil stones.

Here is the money shot.


----------



## RWE

All told, the bakelite and the metal, superb work. Very nice.


----------



## HokieKen

Excellent work Don!

I am really liking the CBN wheels on the Worksharp for everything except for the final honing. The 1200 grit CBN just isn't fine enough for a finished edge IMO. So I still use the 3600 and 6000 grit micro-mesh abrasives after the CBN and that does the trick for me. The CBN cuts fast and cool so it's really nice for reshaping bevels and flattening the backs of blades.


----------



## DLK

It loaded up and clogged fast even with the woodturners wonder stick. How do you clean them.


----------



## HokieKen

I just use a stiff wire brush during use. After use, I scrub the with a nylon brush and some water and Barkeeper's Friend.


----------



## DLK

> I just use a stiff wire brush during use. After use, I scrub the with a nylon brush and some water and Barkeeper's Friend.
> 
> - HokieKen


 Thanks.


----------



## DLK

> All told, the bakelite and the metal, superb work. Very nice.
> 
> - RWE


Thanks. I hadn't done one for a while and I thought a Buck Rogers should be extra shiny!


----------



## Thedustydutchman

I'm having the same issue with my CBN discs Don. I wasn't terribly impressed. I will try the wire brush for cleaning during use though and see what that does. They do cut a lot cooler though so that's nice.


----------



## Bearcontrare

The Buck Rogers plane looks factory new. Excellent restoration!!! Looking at the handles, I hafta wonder, how comfortable is it to use…..???


----------



## DLK

*Barry* it seemed comfortable to use, but I only used it briefly. The main issue I have is that there is no frog adjustment screw. To adjust the frog you have to remove the bakelite handle, which is a PITA.


----------



## HokieKen

During prolonged use, I find the tote to be very uncomfortable. The straightness of it and the hardness of the tennite just aren't ergonomic for my paws.


----------



## DLK

Yes I belive the handles are tenite although lately I said bakelite which I got from another source. However oldtoolheaven says "The handles and knobs were fabricated from Tennessee Eastman tenite #2 and were guaranteed unbreakable in use. " And oldtoolheaven is the irrefutable source.


----------



## HokieKen

I'm pretty sure MF catalogs call it Tenite #2 also Don. Though I can't verify at the moment.


----------



## DLK

Yes. And I don't recall where I got bakelite from, but I apologise for saying they were so.


----------



## Karda

I wouldn't use one any way I like wood


----------



## sansoo22

Great job on the restoration Don. You and Ken are kind of making me want one of these just so I can restore it, test it, and put it on a shelf. Altho I may need another set of shelves as I have already filled up the 3 I have with collector planes.


----------



## DLK

Yes that is will it will probably go …. on a shelf and never used. Or I could sell it.


----------



## sansoo22

Bedrock Type 3 605C as she arrived at the "Plane Rehab Center" 









Got more gross as it came apart.









After a few weeks of work including two handle fixes, one of which didn't reveal itself until I started finish, we now have this.













































I had to pull a few spare parts from my bin and buy a new chip breaker and lever cap but I think this old gal turned out quite nice. I wrote a 10 part blog series about it if anyone wants more info.


----------



## RWE

I appreciate you doing a blog. I am trying to improve my "lumber" finishing, so I will be interested in how you achieved that finish.

Looks great.


----------



## bigblockyeti

Does anyone else have a problem with totes, and knobs too for that matter, being way too small for their hands? I've only got a few bench planes and a few block planes and one router plane so I've intentionally not exposed myself to too many different makes and vintages for few it could become another possibly expensive and time consuming hobby. My Veritas #4 smoother is my go to and I have a Stanley handyman that I'll use on something questionable or less than perfectly clean but it's horribly uncomfortable to grip. The Veritas is tolerable but not great and it has a top brace for the tote which probably makes it more durable if dropped but would certainly make it more difficult to form a larger replacement. Who's done what to fix planes designed for those with smaller hands?


----------



## bandit571

Hold the tote like you would when holding a handsaw…with the index finger pointing the way….and the other 3 wrapped around the handle.


----------



## Mambrax

very nice work!


----------



## DLK

I have a bedrock that someone painted with gold paint, plane body, knob and tote. How should I remove the paint? Paint stripper? What brand?

I do not have a sandblaster.


----------



## controlfreak

> I have a bedrock that someone painted with gold paint, plane body, knob and tote. How should I remove the paint? Paint stripper? What brand?
> 
> - Combo Prof


If any rust start with Evaporust, if not go to the SWP store and get the gel type stripper. It will have a "for professional use only" label on it. I used about four applications with a stiff nylon or brass brush with soap in between. Place it if a sealed plastic container while letting the stripper work overnight. I don't have a blaster either but I do have a cordless Dremel and use a small wire or brass brush with good luck. If there is some good Japanning under there I have no idea how to get the paint off without trashing it.


----------



## HokieKen

> Does anyone else have a problem with totes, and knobs too for that matter, being way too small for their hands? I've only got a few bench planes and a few block planes and one router plane so I've intentionally not exposed myself to too many different makes and vintages for few it could become another possibly expensive and time consuming hobby. My Veritas #4 smoother is my go to and I have a Stanley handyman that I'll use on something questionable or less than perfectly clean but it s horribly uncomfortable to grip. The Veritas is tolerable but not great and it has a top brace for the tote which probably makes it more durable if dropped but would certainly make it more difficult to form a larger replacement. Who s done what to fix planes designed for those with smaller hands?
> 
> - bigblockyeti


Yes, in general knobs are too small to suit me. On the Buck Rogers plane like Don showed above, it's particularly bad. Turning replacements is about the only option. Or paying someone else to turn them. I have plans to replace all of the totes and knobs on my Millers Falls planes that aren't Cocobolo with Cocobolo ones I make. When I do, you can bet the knobs will grow a bit. Totes aren't generally a problem for me. I tend to grip them more like Bandit suggests than with a full fist grab so anything larger than a #3 is comfortable for me. I have only one Veritas plane, the LAJ, and I never noticed it to be uncomfortable so it must be comfortable to me.

I believe the Bedrock line like the one Sansoo has up there^ has over-sized knobs. And there may be some other Stanley types that came with the big knobs too. I'm not positive.


----------



## HokieKen

> Yes. And I don t recall where I got bakelite from, but I apologise for saying they were so.
> 
> - Combo Prof


Sorry if it seemed I was scolding, I wasn't at all. I called it Permaloid (which was the translucent plastic they used) for a long time until someone corrected me ;-) Below is from the marketing brochure for the Buck Rogers planes. 









Probably kinda hard to read at that resolution so:


----------



## sansoo22

I've heard good things about the handle sets that Bill Rittner makes over at http://hardwarecitytools.com/index.html. His handles are modeled after the Stanley types 1-5 that I find much more comfortable to use.


----------



## HokieKen

> I have a bedrock that someone painted with gold paint, plane body, knob and tote. How should I remove the paint? Paint stripper? What brand?
> 
> I do not have a sandblaster.
> 
> - Combo Prof


I have had good luck with using the gel form of Klean Strip from Lowes to remove paint from wood furniture. I've never used it on metal since I do have a sandblaster but it says it works on metal and I see no reason it wouldn't. I recommend getting something that is a gel and that doesn't say anything about being "safe" or "environementally friendly" or anything that is sold in California ;-) For a plane, I'd brush it on liberally and wrap it up in some plastic wrap to keep the solvents from flashing off too fast. Let it sit for 30 minutes or so and give it a scrape. It should peel off easily. Not sure what it might do to the japanning or enamel underneath though.

Alternatively, paint splatters usually come off for me with a coarse wire wheel on my bench grinder.


----------



## HokieKen

> I ve heard good things about the handle sets that Bill Rittner makes over at http://hardwarecitytools.com/index.html. His handles are modeled after the Stanley types 1-5 that I find much more comfortable to use.
> 
> - sansoo22


Wow, how did I not know about that dude? On my planes with steel screws instead of steel rods with brass cylinder nuts, I planned to turn my own rods and cylinder nuts to replace the screws. But for $3.50 each, I'd rather buy the rods from him and save the time it would take  I'll still make my own brass nuts but those rods are a bargain!


----------



## DLK

> Alternatively, paint splatters usually come off for me with a coarse wire wheel on my bench grinder.
> 
> - HokieKen


Not paint splatters. They literally painted the entire plane. But I took a second look. the Tote and knob are painted gold and the body is painted some sort of dark-red-brown.



















These pictures don't do this injustice, justice!


----------



## HokieKen

LOL, funny but in the pictures it just looks like a black plane with dark brown tote and knob  In that case though, I'd definitely give it a soak in some stripper first. Best bet may be to scrub with stiff wire brushes instead of using a scraper though with a cast surface like that. If worse-comes-to-worst and it's worth the shipping cost, you're welcome to send it to me and I'll sandblast it for you.


----------



## 33706

> Does anyone else have a problem with totes, and knobs too for that matter, being way too small for their hands? I ve only got a few bench planes and a few block planes and one router plane so I ve intentionally not exposed myself to too many different makes and vintages for few it could become another possibly expensive and time consuming hobby. My Veritas #4 smoother is my go to and I have a Stanley handyman that I ll use on something questionable or less than perfectly clean but it s horribly uncomfortable to grip. The Veritas is tolerable but not great and it has a top brace for the tote which probably makes it more durable if dropped but would certainly make it more difficult to form a larger replacement. Who s done what to fix planes designed for those with smaller hands?
> 
> - bigblockyeti


There's been planes in my shop that I wished to have a bigger tote, but the brick wall that I hit is coping with the protruding lateral adjuster. I could make a tote that stands tall, with a notch cut into the front to allow the lat adjuster to swing, but it would really look dorky. On the rare occasions I use my #2 Eclipse or other short totes, I simply pull it towards me with one hand behind the tote.


----------



## DLK

*Kenny.* I'll post better photos

*Dusty* and *Kenny*. It turns out that if you use wonder slick stick on your CBN wheels. that you can clean them with simple green, a nylon brush and a paper towel. I'm liking them now.


----------



## HokieKen

Good to know Don. I do use the Wonderstick on mine. I'll try simple green instead of Barkeeper's Friend next time


----------



## OleGrump

Thank you for the info regarding the Buck Rogers plane. While it's appearance is amazing, it sure looked like the tote would not be comfortable to use for long periods of time, so I wondered about that.
Kinda reminded me of a Corsair smoothing plane I got from my grandfather. I absolutely HATED the damned thing, because the wooden tote was so uncomfortable to use. One day, I finally got fed up and started reshaping it. kept on using trial and error until I got it so the tote was very comfortable for my hand. (Didn't have access to Woodcraft or Highland Hardware in those days) Since then, it became one of my favorite smooth planes.
Still, I find the Buck Rogers intriguing. I'd buy one if I run across it because of it's cool futuristic look. Since I don't have one in my collection, I must "need" one, right…....???


----------



## DLK

> Good to know Don. I do use the Wonderstick on mine. I ll try simple green instead of Barkeeper s Friend next time
> 
> - HokieKen


I can clean them in the shop where there is no running water with just a spray bottle!


----------



## Lazyman

I just wish block plane knobs weren't so small. Here is a new one I made for the HPOYD secret Santa swap from massaranduba.

I made it because the original was cracked and even though I used some CA to stabilize it I didn't want to send one with just a cracked knob. I figured that I would make it a little larger because I could. Sorry I cannot seem to find the before picture. It wasn't in terrible shape, I used it for several years before cleaning it up, but here it is after restoration.


----------



## Notw

Nathan, how did you go about threading the inside of the knob you turned?


----------



## Lazyman

Oh yeah, I meant to mention that…I discovered that the wood worm screw on one of my turning chucks has about the same pitch as the thread on the mounting post so after drilling the hole, I screwed the mostly finished knob on and off the the wood worm several times to sort of tap threads. It doesn't really cut threads per say but doing it several times cut just enough that it made it so that when I thread it onto the post it went on with a tight fit. Before using the wood worm, I could not get it to go onto the post at all.


----------



## Jfab

Hello, this is a vfd Jet mini lathe I restored. I truly love this lathe, they are little sweeties and can go SUPER slow! I picked this mess up on a local classified ad for 120 bucks, my full intent was to fix it and sell it. I resisted using the lathe for about a week while I had it listed. I didn't get any bites and told myself, well I should at least test it… I pulled the ad down immediately haha!


----------



## Jfab

I'm sorry, I'm just now realizing this thread is in the hand tools section. I just noticed the show all forms section.


----------



## HokieKen

That's okay Jfab. We like power tools too  Fantastic work on the lathe.


----------



## Mosquito

,Looks like you got it brought back nicely! 
And agreed, it may be in the hand tool section, but you're certainly not the first one to deviate from that, and I don't know of anyone that's complained yet


----------



## RWE

I had a cousin of that Jet. Mine was variable speed via belt and pully. That looks like it might have the variable speed motor? In any case, it is a fine smaller lathe. I turned a lot of bowls and pens on it. Congratulations on such a good deal.


----------



## adot45

Very nice job on the restoration, it looks great!


----------



## Jfab

Thanks everyone, I really enjoyed the project. My advice to anyone wanting to do a similar restoration would be to make sure the lathe is complete as possible. I couldn't believe how much the miscellaneous parts cost. Since jet sells them at such a high cost even finding them used on eBay isn't cheap.


----------



## sansoo22

> Thanks everyone, I really enjoyed the project. My advice to anyone wanting to do a similar restoration would be to make sure the lathe is complete as possible. I couldn't believe how much the miscellaneous parts cost. Since jet sells them at such a high cost even finding them used on eBay isn't cheap.
> 
> - Jfab


I'm glad I'm not the only one that ran into this type of issue. I have a ShopSmith Model 10ER that is still awaiting restoration. Quality bearings for the quill and tailshaft are going to cost me as much as I paid for the tool itself. It will run for another 50 yrs with the new bearings but the sticker shock took the wind out of my enthusiasm to restore it.


----------



## Jfab

Where are you looking at for the bearings? I hear a lot of the old lathes utilized car bearings. If you can get the number off of them NAPA auto parts will either have it in stock or can order it. That may be a cheaper option than if you are looking on say shopsmiths website.

I love the shopsmiths, I have 3 mark V's. I use them as dedicated tools. They make the best and cheapest drill presses I have ever owend.


----------



## sansoo22

Its more the fact I only paid $150 for the Shopsmith and when I replace bearings I typically spring for Timkens. I think grand total shipped was around ~$120 last time I checked. But that was at the height of logistics nightmares, which I understand are still going on, but maybe prices came down a tad.


----------



## BlasterStumps

I have taken sealed ball bearings apart, cleaned them, added new grease and snapped the side covers back in. Good (well nearly) as new. Just my time, some solvent and some new bearing grease. As long as after you clean them, they run smooth, no harm, no foul to repack them and put them back to work.


----------



## HokieKen

> I have taken sealed ball bearings apart, cleaned them, added new grease and snapped the side covers back in. Good (well nearly) as new. Just my time, some solvent and some new bearing grease. As long as after you clean them, they run smooth, no harm, no foul to repack them and put them back to work.
> 
> - BlasterStumps


+1 I have to admit that I normally just replace bearings but when I overhauled my mill, there were two sets of angular ball bearings that had match-ground races that are critical to precision. Not only are those bearings not available but replacing both sets with similar alternatives would have been a major headache and prohibitively expensive. I did as Mike suggests and pried the shield off, removed the old dried grease, cleaned thoroughly with alchohol, and packed with new grease. So far, they're still running smooth as a baby's butt  In my experience, with bearings, they only really wear out about 1/2 the time. I think more often they either get dust/chips inside or the tool sits unused for a long time (like in the case of my mill) and the grease just congeals. YMMV of course, sometimes bearings really do need to be replaced and if they're hard to access and/or relatively inexpensive, that's my normal MO.


----------



## Mosquito

I always clean bearings before I replace, just to see. It seems about 80% of the time I end up replacing anyway, but I at least try lol

I usually buy from Motion Industries, as there's a local branch pretty close to me where I can go to order them in person if I need to.

And I hear ya, I got an older Nova 3000 (similar to a 1624), and the head stock bearings were making some noise. After cleanup, I ended up replacing them, and that was around $150 in bearings (for two…). Next time I went in to order some that had no markings for a different machine, the guy said "these are kind of expensive though…". I think I had 6 bearings total for $140 so I just sort of chuckled and said better than $150 for 2 on my lathe!


----------



## sansoo22

My original plan was to clean and reuse but upon further inspection I think its time to replace. One of the tail shaft bearing seals I damaged during removal. I soaked that assembly in 50/50 trans fluid and acetone for a couple days and still had to "get a bigger hammer" to get them off. One of the quill bearings is completely seized and the other feels like its more of a ratchet than a bearing. Once everything was opened up it was clear they are the original bearings from 1953. I think after close to 70 yrs of service its safe to put the originals out to pasture.


----------



## HokieKen

When it doubt, toss em out!


----------



## Mosquito

I 100% agree with your assessment lol

I also replace start/run capacitors on any motor I get too, unless there's proof they were replaced sometime within the last 20 years…


----------



## bandit571

We have work to do…..$65 +Sale Tax…=









Thinking this is a Type 18 or 19….









Those dividers cost me about $12.. plane is a "c" model….groovy!









I guess you could call this the Forcastle? Meanwhile, back at the stern…









Yep…a Stanley No. 8c….









Le Frog? On the lateral lever, the "STANLEY" goes…

S
T
A
N
L
E
Y
Chipbreaker was on the wrong side of the iron (bevel up No. 8?), Frog was way too far forward….clearcoat everywhere. Has good wood for the handles. Might take a day or 2 to rehab?


----------



## Thedustydutchman

Mmmmmm type 19 my favorite! Looks dang nice from the pictures


----------



## drsurfrat

I forgot to take any pics before; I just started cleaning. This is a Stanley No 11 belt makers plane for tapering leather drive belts joins. Quite a curiosity. I didn't want to change much, so I just steel-wooled, light wire wheeled, and used paste wax. Most of the parts are from about 1895, and everything seems original except the handle, which I obviously hacked. The blade is bevel up, and the 'frog' is very different.




























Let me know if you want any more details.


----------



## Lazyman

That is pretty cool. Have you tapered any belt ends yet?


----------



## drsurfrat

Yes, but now my belt has a razor sharp end and it pokes me in the belly.


----------



## corelz125

Have you tired it yet Mike?


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Congrats Mike, welcome to the Club!


----------



## drsurfrat

> Have you tired it yet Mike?
> - corelz125


No, I didn't even put an edge on it. Th business end of the blade is heavily pitted. Between no chipbreaker, bevel up, the short front piece, and the high handles, I don't think it's made for wood. It would dig in and roll up - in my hands anyway. Do you want to try it?


----------



## HokieKen

My lathe is flat belt driven. I stitch the ends though so I guess I don't need to get on Ebay for this one ;-)


----------



## drsurfrat

Seriously? Now that I have seen it and pawed it, I do't need it, and if you want to indulge your Past Times, I'd happily get it to you to use.

even for Ebay there are VERY few listed. I have no idea of the desirability of these things.


----------



## HokieKen

I appreciate the offer but I have a rule about not acquiring tools unless there's at least a good chance I'll use them. And I simply won't use it. I have to be careful not to become one of those "collectors" ;-) I'm sure there's someone here who will take it off your hands though.


----------



## corelz125

I already have one in the to do pile Mike. Somebody else said they used it on wood and it was only so so.


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop

Guilty. It works just fine, actually.


----------



## Lazyman

I think it is time to wake up this thread again… 
I decided to tackle the $10 112 I picked up a few weeks ago. No markings on the body but the blade says Fulton Tool Co Warranted. 

















Japanning is in excellent condition. Most damage is at the edges and the worst of the damage is on the blade holder (not sure you would call it a frog?) so a sympathetic restore was in order. The rust on the sides and sole is more patina than rust but I used wetsande with some 400 grit W/D paper to get back to bare metal.










The horn was nearly broken off but not quite and still well enough attached that I decided not to break it off completely to glue it back on. I was barely able to pry it apart enough to put some epoxy with dark walnut dye added. I didn't get quite enough squeeze out to hide the cracks so dribbled just a little CA after sanding to level the surface and resanded. It did not have a hard film finish so I just wiped some Tried and True Danish oil to pop the grain.

























I doesn't look like the blade was ever sharpened or even had a hook burnished. That probably explains why it looks like it was never used. The blade is short like you normally see on a #80 so perhaps it was replaced? Anyway, I ground a 45° bevel, honed the back and burnished the edge. It takes a shaving but I may have over burnished so I may try again.


----------



## Notw

That came out great Nathan, but $10 for a 112 gets you a big old 'you suck'


----------



## HokieKen

Wow that's gorgeous Nathan! Definitely one of the best handplane scores I've witnessed! Congrats on the score and well-done on the refurb. And I'm pretty sure I already gave you one, but you deserve another.


----------



## Mosquito

Very nice Nathan. There was a while that I was looking at Fulton tools, after inheriting one that my great-great grandfather had passed down through the generations.

So I've got a soft spot for Fulton's, but all the same, that's a very nice one


----------



## HokieKen

I didn't know anyone ever made a 112 for the Fulton brand. I'm guessing it's either Sargent or Stanley made.


----------



## Mosquito

If it was actually made for Fulton, then I would guess Sargent for that time period (a #57/59 depending on width f the scraper)

Looking at it again, I would guess it's Sargent regardless… did Stanley ever have the flat head screw as the pivot? I'm used to seeing them being a pin or at least a ground off screw with no slot


----------



## bandit571

Now that I can actually FIND this thread, again…
$3 for this pair..









Rusty & Krusty..









Lever seems to suggest I have a Sargent block plane..
and the "After" 









All kinds of numbers….306/307….619.3701…..217-16..Hmmm









Look any better?

As for that 3/4" wide chisel from Craftsman (Stanley?)









It and 3 drill bits were cleaned up a bit….bits were $0.25 each..


----------



## 33706

It and 3 drill bits were cleaned up a bit….bits were $0.25 each..

- bandit571
[/QUOTE]

Any tanged twist drill bits are always a big hit in my toolbox, and for the price of 2 bits (heh) apiece, what a bonus!!


----------



## Lazyman

Nice save Bandit. Yeah, I had to search for it too.

Yes, I do suck. When I asked the guy how much he wanted for his planes, he first said "those are really old". I thought he was going to give me a pretty high number. When he said $10 apiece, I could not get the money out my pocket fast enough. I also got that #8 Ohio I showed in the HPOYD thread from him.

Mos, I noticed that the blade is not as long as I have seen on other Fulton and Sargent 112 equivalents. It kind of looks to me like someone may have put a #80 Fulton blade into this but never used it so this may just be a Sargent with Fulton replacement blade in it, I suppose. Or it could be that he had a #80 laying around with the correct blade for this one laying somewhere in his heap. BTW, the blade is 3" wide making it a #59, I assume.


----------



## HokieKen

This thread needs a little CPR so I give you my Millers Falls Frankenplane! This little fella started out as a Fulton 3708 I snagged off Ebay. It's the size of Stanley #2 and was made by Millers Falls for the Sears Fulton line. Best I can tell, MF supplied these from 193sumpthin-1944. It was made from the same castings as the Millers Falls #7 but had a steel adjuster nut instead of brass and had "tropical hardwood" instead of Cocobolo. It also lacked the 3-point lever cap and had a Fulton-branded iron. The frog was painted black instead of red as well. They skimped on the machining of the Fulton version too. The frog receiver pads were rough cast in the body and were enameled over.

Anywho… enough background, here's the before and after pictures:



















































Obviously, there was a little more than some cleanup and a paint job done on this one ;-) I have long wanted a Millers Falls #7 to complete my collection of bench planes. But the stars have never aligned so I determined a Fulton version would be a good placeholder until my ship comes in. But once I got the plane, two things came up on Ebay that don't normally show their face.

First a frog from a #7 that was already enameled a proper red and had the brass adjuster nut instead of steel It was a type 1 frog to boot so it has a cast adjuster yoke instead of the bent steel which is kinda cool. The seller had a Best Offer option on the listing so I made one and they accepted and voila, a proper Millers Falls frog 

Shortly thereafter, a 1-5/8" Millers Falls iron popped up on the 'bay. The price was a bit much for my taste but there was a Best Offer option and I made one. To be promptly declined :-( So I waited and the listing expired and was relisted. So I made another offer slightly higher than before and was again declined. Rinse and repeat… I made a total of 4 or 5 offers and they were all turned down over several weeks. Then one day I noticed it had moved to the "Ended" section of my watchlist so it had either sold or the listing expired and it didn't get relisted. C'est la vie. But not really  I had a package coming from Mosquito with a miter box part I was going to machine a replacement for and in the box was the Millers Falls iron! He had made an offer (apparently more generous than mine) and the seller accepted it. So he surprised me with a most generous gift 

Well now I had a Millers Falls frog and iron/chipbreaker so I couldn't very well put this plane together without a 3-point lever cap. I had a spare 1-3/4" lever cap in my parts bin and it was only about 1/16" too wide to fit in the smaller plane. So I put it on my mill and shaved a hair off each side.

Finally, it just wasn't going to do with the boring wood that came with the Fulton. So, using some Cocobolo that my buddy pottz sent me, I turned a new knob and made a new tote using the originals as patterns.

So in the end, I have a Millers Falls #7 with a Fulton 3708 body. If I can ever happen upon a body from a #7, I'll have a complete version of both. Such ends the story of my Frankenplane. And a couple action shots to show that she ain't just for looks


----------



## bandit571

The "Befores"....all 3 of them…









And..









That cost me a total of $8 one day….so..the Afters?









Millers Falls No. 900/WH Kiefaber No. 4









A PEXTO 6" drawknife..









And a Stanley No. 51 Spokeshave..









With a clean and flat sole…and a sharp cutter..









Handle detail..









And a "money shot" of the plane at work…









Getting the work done..









Kenny's plane looks GREAT! I'd almost be afraid to put it to work….


----------



## donwilwol

Well you'll have to envision the before with the hint given


----------



## bigblockyeti

Looks like someone's ready to roll some logs now.


----------



## sansoo22

Since we are on a slight Miller Falls kick I will play along.



















Only real challenge on this one was the lever cap. I had to balance keeping the patent stamp while dealing with the pitting as best I could. It didn't come out as polished as I'd like but I did the best I could given the circumstances.




























Even though the lever cap isn't as polished as I'd like and it has some pitting visible I think the whole plane came out quite nicely.

And to prove its not all "show and no go"...here she is going back to work.


----------



## HokieKen

That's some kinda sexy Sansoo!


----------



## sansoo22

> That s some kinda sexy Sansoo!
> 
> - HokieKen


Thanks. The right side of the tote on those handles you did is so damn sexy. I kind of want to make a set…except your finishing troubles have scared me away.


----------



## donwilwol

> Well you ll have to envision the before with the hint given
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Don W


I did have a before picture


----------



## donwilwol

And one more which I believe was a peavey but is now a cant hook. All I had was the hook


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## Brit

> This thread needs a little CPR so I give you my Millers Falls Frankenplane! This little fella started out as a Fulton 3708 I snagged off Ebay. It s the size of Stanley #2 and was made by Millers Falls for the Sears Fulton line. Best I can tell, MF supplied these from 193sumpthin-1944. It was made from the same castings as the Millers Falls #7 but had a steel adjuster nut instead of brass and had "tropical hardwood" instead of Cocobolo. It also lacked the 3-point lever cap and had a Fulton-branded iron. The frog was painted black instead of red as well. They skimped on the machining of the Fulton version too. The frog receiver pads were rough cast in the body and were enameled over.
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> 
> First a frog from a #7 that was already enameled a proper red and had the brass adjuster nut instead of steel It was a type 1 frog to boot so it has a cast adjuster yoke instead of the bent steel which is kinda cool. The seller had a Best Offer option on the listing so I made one and they accepted and voila, a proper Millers Falls frog
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> Shortly thereafter, a 1-5/8" Millers Falls iron popped up on the bay. The price was a bit much for my taste but there was a Best Offer option and I made one. To be promptly declined :-( So I waited and the listing expired and was relisted. So I made another offer slightly higher than before and was again declined. Rinse and repeat… I made a total of 4 or 5 offers and they were all turned down over several weeks. Then one day I noticed it had moved to the "Ended" section of my watchlist so it had either sold or the listing expired and it didn t get relisted. C est la vie. But not really  I had a package coming from Mosquito with a miter box part I was going to machine a replacement for and in the box was the Millers Falls iron! He had made an offer (apparently more generous than mine) and the seller accepted it. So he surprised me with a most generous gift
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> Well now I had a Millers Falls frog and iron/chipbreaker so I couldn t very well put this plane together without a 3-point lever cap. I had a spare 1-3/4" lever cap in my parts bin and it was only about 1/16" too wide to fit in the smaller plane. So I put it on my mill and shaved a hair off each side.
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> - HokieKen


That's a thing of beauty Kenny.


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## sansoo22

Hold on to seat this is going to be a long one. Here is my Dunlap 103.23622 drill press that I believe to be from the 1950s. As you can see from the before images I had quite a task ahead of me. This thing was stripped down to every last part…that I could get apart…and restored to as close to like new condition as I could achieve.














































This was a bit of a restomod as well. I wanted some improvements over the standard features like the depth handles, power switch, and even took a slight liberty with the paint scheme.








































































That was a lot of work, a lot of frustration, and quite a few new lessons learned. For instance hand reaming oil impregnated bronze bushings for the first time. All in all it was a success. She purrs like a kitten and run out is well within tolerance for an old bench top machine.

Special thankyou goes out to HookieKen for retrofitting the new depth handle/assembly mechanism for me.


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## warrenkicker

It is a beauty. I found a Craftsman which looks identical and cleaned it up to use in my garage so I had the advantage of already having the three-handled crank but I went with hammered grey as I think it wasn't power bronze originally. You are lucky you don't have all of the drill mistakes on your table though. Filled mine with epoxy and sanded it smooth.


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## adot45

That really scrubbed up nice! Very attractive color combination too. Love these kinds of jobs.


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## JohnDi

That drill press looks amazing. Great job.


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## bandit571

The stand looks good, too!


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## Notw

Wow Sansoo that came out amazing, those old machines have some great lines and curves on them.


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## HokieKen

Yep, that's drop-dead sexy Sansoo!


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## BlasterStumps

Great job Sansoo. Just by chance, did you happen to take any pictures of the quill and related parts when you had it apart? I have a '67 floor model and it has a slight runout.


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## corelz125

Great looking drill press


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## sansoo22

Thank you for the kind words everyone. This really was a frustrating joy to restore. I am very proud of the result and the processes I learned while doing the work. It has given me the confidence to tackle the 1952 ShopSmith Model 10ER you can see peeking out under some junk in a few of the images.

BlasterStumps - Here is my "reference" image of the quill I took so I could remember how to put it back together.









If you need more images shoot me your email in a PM and I can get you a pretty hi-res PDF of the manual which includes an exploded parts diagram. I also have quite a few more images I can zip and send your way.


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## bandit571

The "Before"..









Stanley Defiance…no.3 size…

And the "After"...


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## BlasterStumps

Thank you Sansoo! I don't know if this DP has bronze bushings or some other bearings. But the pictures help. Best of luck on the ShopSmith.


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## BlasterStumps

You've been busy Bandit. Nice work.


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## ToddJB

Just wrapped up my DeWalt GWI 10" RAS.




























Like a doof I didn't take any before pics, but here are a couple process shots
































































Still need to work on the badges, but I need her to get to work and earn her keep


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## RWE

ToddJB:

Very fine job on the Radial. I always wanted one, but my shop is too small. Looks like a very solid table. Congrats on a great restoration.


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## adot45

Really nice job, looks great!


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## adot45

Here is a Stanley no. 11 Belting plane I got recently.



























And the afters:


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## RWE

Very nice job Adot45. So much for work, now I have to go research what the heck a belting plane is used for.
*

Well I checked Blood and Gore and it is what I had speculated it might be. I was afraid to say it because I might be wrong and appear to be dumber than I am known to be from other goof posts. It was used to shape the bevels of leather belts where the ends are fastened together. Used on belt driven machinery back in the day. *

Very cool item.


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## adot45

> Very nice job Adot45. So much for work, now I have to go research what the heck a belting plane is used for.
> *
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> Well I checked Blood and Gore and it is what I had speculated it might be. I was afraid to say it because I might be wrong and appear to be dumber than I am known to be from other goof posts. It was used to shape the bevels of leather belts where the ends are fastened together. Used on belt driven machinery back in the day. *
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> - RWE


You are correct in your research RWE and I'm glad you took the time to investigate and found it interesting.
I wanted this plane to go with my 12's because it fits right in with them style wise.


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## adot45

A Stanley 3C in pretty rough shape. I think it's toward the tail end of 11's. Has three dates on base but high knob on front, and not a Victory style blade. I bought it anyway because the wood is intact and surely it's worth $8














































Cleaned up OK


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## KentInOttawa

That is a nice save ADOT. It's surely worth more than $8 now.


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## corelz125

Cleaned up nice. Youre gonna get SMittys attention with that SW logo


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## HokieKen

Beautiful work on the 11 and the 3 Dave!


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## Karda

that turned out nice


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## adot45

Thanks fellows, I like working on them but I'm way behind.


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## corelz125

Have you used the #11? Came out nice


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## adot45

No I haven't Corelz, but thank you very much.


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## donwilwol

I tried to post this pre-upgrade and could not. So let's try the new way
























A type 2 Sargent 409. 

Not in order, but I'll figure that out later.


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## KentInOttawa

I had the seller deliver this Veritas low-angle smooth plane to me yesterday. It was a little rusty (yes, Veritas has been making planes that long) and came with a Veritas jointer fence and a similar vintage Record 04.























I gave it a general scrubbing with oil and wax and some scraping, sanding and polishing of the metal bits and it looks much better now.
















A few seconds of power stropping the blade after reassembly and it was ready for some testing.








I like it. I prefer the depth adjustment to the Bailey's adjusters; it has much less slop/lash so it's easier to dial in.


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## IdleHandsWorkshop

Here's my Stanley Eclipse 1203 I paid $5.00 for a while back on eBay, I had to get it for obvious reasons...

















And here's the work on the body, if I get out to the shop I'll grab a pic of it since she got a new tote and knob










I did a youtube video for my channel on trying out this blueing stuff as I had never used it before on anything, worked great.


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## KentInOttawa

IdleHandsWorkshop said:


> Here's my Stanley Eclipse 1203 I paid $5.00 for a while back on eBay, I had to get it for obvious reasons...
> View attachment 3857377
> 
> View attachment 3857376


I _can relate. This one has since moved on to greener pastures.







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## corelz125

Gotta love those improvisions


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## IdleHandsWorkshop

corelz125 said:


> Gotta love those improvisions


I wish I would have gotten pictures of this one plane I saw on Etsy several years back, it had a golf ball for the front knob and the seller was claiming it was a PGA Tournament Plane... I was like wtf ?!?!?


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## IdleHandsWorkshop

My lineup of shame... things on the bench to be cleaned up and put back into use... let's see, from left to right on the planes... Eclipse 1203C, Eclipse 1204, Defiance 1244, then Defiance 1203, Defiance 1204, Handyman something or other lol, Stanley 26 Transitional, Shelton No. 4, Sandusky Coffin, in the front is an Eclipse 1203 with a 3D printed tote I am going to try out, and the block plane is... crap, I forget... Then on the table is an Armory Gun Co. 12g that has already been cleaned up some and the mechanisms all work, then there's an unidentified .22lr that is in the same condition, have to get both barrels cleaned out and stocks made. And the backsaw is just something I threw together to use because I needed it.

Is it wrong that I have 6 more in the mail including a Stanley 45 that I can't wait to play with...















Hi, my name is Stephen and I have a problem.... ( not really, unless you ask the wife then I have a LOT of problems ). So there's all the befores, let's see what I can do for some afters while I'm out on medical leave.


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## corelz125

That transitional is in rough shape looks like it has a Sargent lever cap on it.


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## IdleHandsWorkshop

corelz125 said:


> That transitional is in rough shape looks like it has a Sargent lever cap on it.


I kid you not, the last three... that transitional, the Sandusky, and the Shelton were literally in a bucket in a thrift store for $1... I wasn't going to get them because there's really not a lot there to work with but I wanted something else in the bucket. I thought it was $1.00 per item, nope, it was $1 and you take the whole bucket of stuff so that's how I wound up with those. The Sandusky is just the body and it's split clean through and you can see where they drove nails in to try and hold it together.


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## corelz125

I guess a bunch of parts for $1 is pretty good then


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## IdleHandsWorkshop

corelz125 said:


> I guess a bunch of parts for $1 is pretty good then


I got out and worked on a plane, made something else but forgot what I was doing halfway through and started installing a small vise which promptly got used for a one armed glue up




















Oh and then my new companions in the shop... Momma just adopted us and made us her humans and my shop for Labor and Delivery !!!


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## HokieKen

Nothing wrong with that lineup Stephen. If you've got the time to spend, that's a good way to spend it!


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## KentInOttawa

IdleHandsWorkshop said:


> I got out and worked on a plane, made something else but forgot what I was doing halfway through and started installing a small vise which promptly got used for a one armed glue up
> View attachment 3857707
> View attachment 3857708
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> View attachment 3857705
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Did you read Andre's post this morning? 🤣 


rad457 said:


> View attachment 3857700


On the positive side, you can still work on the plane today. You could start by taking your glue-up out of the clamps...


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## IdleHandsWorkshop

KentInOttawa said:


> Did you read Andre's post this morning? 🤣
> On the positive side, you can still work on the plane today. You could start by taking your glue-up out of the clamps...


Yes, I'll go with that story.... that's what I'm gonna run with lol


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## Jeremy11

The jointer was $1 on the last day of a hoarder's estate sale. All it needed was a sole flattening, a blade clean and sharpen, a bit of superglue in the wedge, and a generous helping of Obenauf's. Make is unclear, but the name ends in ...STON. The iron is Providence Tool Co. Works great, what am I going to use my Stanley #8 for now?


















Here's a window maker's sash plane, marked Shapleigh, Day & Co. Apparently Mr. Day was only part of the firm from 1847 - 1863 so that dates it. The rear screw was broken so I had to splice it with a couple nipped nails and superglue. Not in the best of shape, but does work again. This is a great learning experience, I didn't even know what kind of plane this was when I got it, same sale as the jointer, but $10 on the first day.


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## CaptainKlutz

Before #IAMAKLUTZ
1954 Unisaw as found in wild. Sounded horrible when turned on due bad bearings and old belts, fence tube was bent on both ends; but it would run.... 










After #IAMAKLUTZ 😍










Unisaw Resto-Mod?
New arbor/motor bearings; 100% media blasted with epoxy primer and Battleship Grey 2K urethane enamel paint; replaced missing door; replaced missing logo badges; refinished/restored used Biesemeyer fence with 32" right capacity (just big enough for plywood cabinets); updated electrical with paddle switch and thermal breaker; added disappearing splitter; added motor cover, floor pan, and dust collection; and added abandoned extension table from a SawStop (HaHa). I.E, Better than new.
The prefect TS for serious woodworker in small space with only 120V power. This one is almost too pretty to use or sell. 

But I did use it and it rips 8/4 cherry like butter; depsite being only 1HP. Got to love them Rockwell/Delta bullet motors. 









It tentatively goes to a new home this weekend.

Cheers!


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## Lazyman

I decided this sad old guy needed a little little attention



















A little cleaning and some light polishing, shows just how well used it was. Plenty of dings and scratches.
















He felt a little plain next to his hand plane buddies so I added some bling.










Not quite the right shade of red or the best paint job but he'll get plenty of use.


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## HokieKen

Slick Nathan! I approve


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## KentInOttawa

Jeremy11 said:


> The jointer was $1 on the last day of a hoarder's estate sale. All it needed was a sole flattening, a blade clean and sharpen, a bit of superglue in the wedge, and a generous helping of Obenauf's. Make is unclear, but the name ends in ...STON. The iron is Providence Tool Co. Works great, what am I going to use my Stanley #8 for now?


Reading the maker's and owner's marks can often be difficult given the visual noise created by dirt, checks, aging eyes, et al. One technique that will sometimes help is to lay a piece of paper over the marks and "copy" it by shading the paper above it.








Shade using the side of the lead. You could also use artists' leads or pieces of sidewalk chalk.








Taking a photo and cropping or zooming in can give you some details that you may have missed. With the digital photos you can easily rotate or, in the editor of your choice, play with the colour and other settings to help you glean more info.









I flipped through the various preset filters for the shaded photo and the photo of the original plane here, and was able to *finally* determine that it says HAYWOOD. On a good day it solves the puzzle and on a bad day it does nothing for you. PLMK if this helps at all.


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## IdleHandsWorkshop

Some work on the pile of shame today, not a lot, there's a couple more flat head screwdrivers and also some more of the bits, they're all Irwin USA 4, 6, 8, 14 and I believe I have most of the others in the pile still to go through. The transitional and the Diamond Edge just needed some dusting off, I'll revisit the irons and chip breakers later on. 

The Defiance is a 1204 and I have to sharpen the iron and clean up the chip breaker to finish it off. 










Had to get out there and do something today, the pile of shame is growing...










and in the bottom left corner is a Defiance 1204C that got dismantled and dusted off, here it is mostly broken down ( I normally don't take the frog apart unless it's roached ).


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## IdleHandsWorkshop

Slowly but surely this collection is coming along. Think I have about 3 or 4 left to locate... I know at least one of them is on eBay regularly, the 1213 and 1213 1/2 are gonna be the ones I won't find. Came REALLY close to impulsively and mistakenly buying an old Fulton that looks so much like the 1213 it's unreal... something seemed off about it so I looked it up before buying it... my wife was shocked and chewed me out for not buying. So confused on that though... she gets on me when/if I buy planes and other old tools, and then she gets on me if I don't buy them....

I added the plane numbers below the planes... the only thing you can't really tell is that the 1204C ( this is the same corrugated plane as pictured above ) is corrugated and I need to finish the tote up for the 1244

Going to work on finishing more of the Pile of Shame which has actually shrank quite a bit with me being unable to return to work for another 6 weeks or more. So buying will most likely slow done some unless I see one of the ones I am missing...


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## Thedustydutchman

Neat to see this as a set! Are the 1243 and 1244 normally that color or did you paint them?


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## IdleHandsWorkshop

Thedustydutchman said:


> Neat to see this as a set! Are the 1243 and 1244 normally that color or did you paint them?


Aside from the lever cap, I have seen them with the grey paint, red and or black knobs and totes, branded and unbranded totes. Usually the lever cap is just black though but since that's occupying space I would normally use for the sticker, I figured I would jazz it up a little and paint the cap to match the rest of the set. Still have to go in and touch up the lines on those two today.

And I spoke WAAAAAAAY to soon about having almost all of these. I was going through "John Walter - Antique Collectible Stanley Tools" and found even more I never knew about including Nickel Plated Lever Caps... those are going to be fun to get, cleanup and replate.


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## bandit571

Random plane "drive-by" today...








Stanley No. 8c....needed to joint these 2...








Into a glued up panel...


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## IdleHandsWorkshop

Thedustydutchman said:


> Neat to see this as a set! Are the 1243 and 1244 normally that color or did you paint them?


Coming up soon after I finish these out, I have an almost complete set of Eclipse planes and I was able to find the mysterious block plane in a 1941 Montgomery Wards and Co. catalog. And after going through the catalogs last night, I came to the conclusion that much like the Defiance had other tools, so did the Eclipse line, but there's also another company overseas that made planes and parts for them but wasn't in any way related or connected that I have seen.

At the time the Eclipse line was being sold they were considered "good" and of lower quality. The Wards Master line was their premium line, followed by the Lakeside line and then the Eclipse line. Really neat going through those old catalogs, I found where you could order rifles and shotguns, which in 70's I remember my grandfather ordering a matched set of shotguns. In one of the catalogs you could order a horse/pony or burro and it would arrive in 3-4 weeks.

Anywho, I could go on all day and just ramble, in the first pic below here, "D" is the Eclipse block plane and the measurements match up to what I got.


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## Thedustydutchman

I think my next collection is going to be wards master planes. I have a no.3 that I absolutely love. I already have a full set of post war Stanley bench planes and don't really need anymore but we all know how that goes.

Lol, a mail order horse? Now thats weird!


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## KentInOttawa

Thedustydutchman said:


> Lol, a mail order horse? Now thats weird!


Under certain conditions, animals, alive and dead, can still be mailed by Canada Post. It wouldn't surprise me if the same applied to the USPS.


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## IdleHandsWorkshop

Thedustydutchman said:


> I think my next collection is going to be wards master planes. I have a no.3 that I absolutely love. I already have a full set of post war Stanley bench planes and don't really need anymore but we all know how that goes.
> 
> Lol, a mail order horse? Now thats weird!


Now what I find interesting is that back then it was $300 for a pony and $78 for a burro... through the Bureau of Land Management now days you can get them as low as $25 but they're not broke and won't fit into the boxes unless you tape it up really tight.

Come to think about it, if you get them through BLM there have an incentive program that will pay to take one of these horses for $25 or more ( sometimes they are auctioned off )


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## Thedustydutchman

Those ads are amazing!!! Thanks so much for posting them. I wonder if the famous fashion club pony farm is still around? Lol


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## IdleHandsWorkshop

Thedustydutchman said:


> Those ads are amazing!!! Thanks so much for posting them. I wonder if the famous fashion club pony farm is still around? Lol


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## bandit571

A tad rusty and krusty..








#4 size was ~$35....the #3 size was ~$10....








The Millers Falls No. 9 has the wrong knob...and was missing the bolt between the chipbreaker and iron...simple fixes..








Now has the correct knob....and a bolt...seems to be a Pre-War Type 2....

The #3?








Black frog, this side has FULTON No. 3709 BB stamped into the side....
Otherwise, seems to be a Millers Falls made for Sears....aka No. 8.....Iron had a large chip missing, re-sharpened that...Iron is Stamped as a Fulton Made in USA. These were made without the frog adjuster bolt. Otherwise









Not much different from a No.8. Also Pre-war Type 2....lever cap is typical of the "Made for" planes...








Not too bad?


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## NACEOD

Miller's Falls No. 73, Size 2 from Goodwillfinds. $18.00 delivered. All parts were there. One thing I didn't notice was the front post had been broken off and welded at some point. Everything seems to be lined up cause it cuts square enough for me.

I soaked it for 48 hours in 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water, wire brushed and degreased before painting.


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## DanKrager

Have long been a believer that life is too short to work with ugly tools. So, I took my very first hand saw purchased probably close to 60 years ago and restored and beautified it. It's a cheapo generic hardware store saw that I've used as a utility tool through the years. As the time nears that I won't be able to use power tools, at least my old friend will be nearby lookin' good. 
















DanK


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