# What kind of wood pegs do I use to peg white oak beams?



## metroplexchl (Jul 26, 2017)

I'm building a workshop that is post and beam. I'd like to use joinery and pegs, but I was always told you use hardwood pegs to join softwood joints. Would hard wood joints take hardwood pegs if I lubed them up with wax?


----------



## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Certainly not softwood pegs.


----------



## mudflap4869 (May 28, 2014)

You mentioned white oak beams. Use the same wood (trenals = tree nails)) as the beams.


----------



## bold1 (May 5, 2013)

White oak split with the grain and then rounded.


----------



## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

after you get tired of rounding white oak, it is very acceptable to go BORG
and get some 3/4" and 1" red oak dowel rods and use them. Pick up a couple
of high quality auger bits the same size and a high torque 1/2" corded electric drill with low RPMs.
hit your local Pawn Shops for the drill vs buying new. [keep the auger cutters as SHARP as possible].
your little cordless screwdriver drill should be used for driving screws - not a large auger bit.
if you can get the small parts to your drill press - you will have more accurate work.
you are basically building a pole barn with sides - not the Taj Mahal so it is very okay
to substitute things here and there to get the job done as efficiently, safely and quickly as possible.
again - good luck in your project. looking forward to photos once you get started. 
oh - if you have a lathe, start building some 4" and 6" dia mallets out of some of the white oak.
(or have them made for you).

BTW: when do you expect to actually start this project ?

.


----------



## metroplexchl (Jul 26, 2017)

> after you get tired of rounding white oak, it is very acceptable to go BORG
> and get some 3/4" and 1" red oak dowel rods and use them. Pick up a couple
> of high quality auger bits the same size and a high torque 1/2" corded electric drill with low RPMs.
> hit your local Pawn Shops for the drill vs buying new. [keep the auger cutters as SHARP as possible].
> ...


Always great advice from you, amigo! Thanks also to everyone. I think I'll go with the red oak pegs. I have a VERY low torque hand drill that I think I'll start using. I'm sure I'll tire of that quickly and go with a craigslist drill that I"ll be looking for! ;-)

Great idea about the mallets!

As far as start date, I'm not sure. my permit info jsut went into the city for permit to start. That should take a couple of weeks at most. I'm currently collecting all the components that I've been planning hard for. Once I get the permit to proceed, I'll start with the foundation which is pretty simple, but i go slowly to get it as level/square as possible. Then I'll start with construction. I have 3 kiddos (one with special needs), so this is going to be completed as I have time to do it. It could take months unfortunately. But the benefit of going slowly is that I can hopefully fix or find work-arounds for all the mistakes I'm assuming I'll make!

I'll definitely be sharing pics. I am new to wood working on this scale an am looking forward to getting some experience that I can share on this forum. I hate that I ask so many questions but have little to share due to lack of experience. I guess we all start somewhere….

chris


----------



## metroplexchl (Jul 26, 2017)

PS - anyone ever used construction adhesive like liquid nails vs wood glue to join beams? I've never done it but was curious.


----------



## JBrow (Nov 18, 2015)

metroplexchl,

Here is a source for waxed timber framing pegs, including draw bore pegs, in several species.

http://www.pegs.us/


----------



## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

I will get out some photos of a barn that my grandfather and great grandfather
built over a hundred years ago and it is still standing today.
they never used any caulking or adhesives. Timber Framers would CRINGE at the mere thought of it.

it may be in your best interest to visit your local library and read up on Timber Framing.
or- if you don't want to do the library thing - google Timber Framing Techniques and you will
find many good pointers.

Pinterest is your friend:
=timber%7Cautocomplete%7Cundefined&term_meta[]=frame%7Cautocomplete%7Cundefined&term_meta[]=joints%7Cautocomplete%7Cundefined]https://www.pinterest.com/search/pins/?rs=ac&len=2&q=timber%20frame%20joints&eq=timber%20frame%20joints&etslf=NaN&term_meta[]=timber%7Cautocomplete%7Cundefined&term_meta[]=frame%7Cautocomplete%7Cundefined&term_meta[]=joints%7Cautocomplete%7Cundefined

.


----------



## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Just a thought

Red oak is like a straw. Easily absorbs moisture. What'll happen if the red oak pegs rot eventually? Just a thought.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

This might help


----------



## John Smith_inFL (Dec 15, 2017)

rot ?? maybe - maybe not.
IF a red oak dowel absorbs as much moisture as you say, IMHO, it will only make the joint tighter.
if that was a true concern, I would soak the dowels in a sealer prior to insertion to block the absorption.
but - if this were my project - I would use them straight out of the store.

jus my Dos Centavos

.


----------

