# Shop Outlet Height?



## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

I spent last weekend burying a service cable from the house to my 10"X16' shop so I can move from a drop cord to a new 100 AMP service. I will do the tie in on both panels this weekend. The interior of the shop is a mess but a blank slate as well. I am planning to insulate and then install 1/2" plywood on the walls with lots of 3/4" plywood french cleats from top to a reasonable distance from the floor. This leaves me with the task of laying out the outlets.

I figure that I will leave the outlets flush with the ply so that I can cover with whatever if the outlet is not needed. It may not be known now where I will put things and I will likely change my mind as this is my first shop. I do have some questions.

With no cabinets (yet)) what is a good height?
Quad or just duplex?
I am thinking one circuit per wall should do?


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## CoryN (Dec 26, 2016)

I'm currently doing the same thing. I was told on another forum to put them all 4 feet from the floor, so that is what I did. Should accomodate any cabinets I may install at a later date.


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## squazo (Nov 23, 2013)

4 ft and 1 inch to the bottom of the cover plate. that way you can lean a sheet of plywood up against the wall and still use the plug


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

I went 4' so anywhere I want to roll up a cabinet. or sit one permanently I never have to worry about covering one up. It allows the cords to droop down naturally, so no stress on them either.

I went one further than most do. I used 3, 20 amp breakers, with 12/3 wire. I jumped every third box on each line. So if I am at a bench, and have tools into both outlets covering that area, I am never coming off the same line. Generally you don't have much drag, but a 3hp router, and a rolling 2 Hp dust collector, with 2 or 3 bright work lamps to illuminate what you are doing, can brown you out. At least it has me. Unless I run extension cords, which I never need to do with spacing every 6 to 8' depending on what I envision for that work space.

Whatever you do, plan for more than you think you will need, Doing it after all the wall boards are up costs a lot more, than just doing a little extra from the start. Sure a roll of 12/3 sounds like a lot, the wire will be the same, add conduit, and other fixtures to add it later, and do it correctly, and your price tripled. Plus you are in electrical work mode, if you are doing it yourself, or paying an electrician, doing it at once is value added. Especially if you have to pay an electrician to MOM-BACK. MOM-BACK is expensive…..


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

for height i think squazo has a good idea going 4'1".i always do a quad for garage or shops and put 2 or 3 outlets per wall.i also have drops from the ceiling that come in very handy.as TRSN said it's much cheaper to do it now than later,you can never have too many outlets.are you doing 220v also? you may not need it now but probably later.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

> 4 ft and 1 inch to the bottom of the cover plate. that way you can lean a sheet of plywood up against the wall and still use the plug
> 
> - squazo


I really like this idea!


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

I am saving one 220V for a future mini split. Another 220 to use generator to backfeed to house during storm outages that are rare but could happen and it will really help with the noise level. I think I will do the every third box deal on the circuit with a forth for lighting so it I blow something I will still have lights. Maybe do a retractable pull cord on a GFCI for when I am cutting outside.

Thanks for all the ideas folks!


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## CaptainKlutz (Apr 23, 2014)

FWIW:
Building(fire) sets a minimum height of 18" of any permanent electrical device in garage applications (like water heater/furnace). This rule covers any permanently mounted (bolted to floor) power tools, and their receptacles permanently mounted nearby. But there is no NEC (electrical code) limitations on height of outlets. NEC used to have requirements on min safe distance for outlets when located near plumbing fixtures (6'), but that was removed in 1996 when code added requirement that all wet locations must use GFCI protected outlets. 
The only other pertinent codification for outlet height is by ADA (for disabled persons); which suggests outlets should be between 15-54" inches from floor.
BTW - Some states like People's Republic of Kalifornia; have local requirements that need to be followed. CA has 48" maximum on height of top of outlet plate in some locations. :-( 
None of the above applies to boxes for light switches. NFPA code requires center of switch to be no more than 48" above floor.

+1 For any open wall, where you might want to store wood against, bottom of outlet plate 48+1". This puts bottom of box ~49.5" from floor.

+1 Either run separate breaker to each outlet box (more expensive), or install extra outlets - daisy chained and leap frogging the circuits to enable access to more than 1 circuit in 4-6' section of wall.

I prefer to use duplex boxes, putting one on each side of same framing space - each connected to separate circuit. This puts 4 outlets separated by 14" of wall space and (20) 20A circuits for my toys. In a smaller space, I have put outlets between every 2nd stud pair (~32" separating each group), instead of typical 48" apart recommended. 
My only reasoning is to always know that 'right' outlet is connected to different circuit than 'left' one. Works well when you have work table with sander and vacuum running at same time. 
Seldom do I need quad box for 4 low power draw outlets less than 14" from each other, unless it's serving a bank of battery chargers. For my charging shelf, used an outlet strip closer to the chargers to reduce wiring clutter. YMMV

Also suggest dedicated circuits/breaker for 120v outlets behind mostly fixed location dust collector, vacuum, and/or compressor with large motor. These tend to draw a lot of power and can be tough to share with any other power tool due constantly cycling, or simultaneous use. If dedicated circuit is not possible, then you have another reason to leap frog circuits to outlets along wall, when they are in same working space. 

Hope this helps you organize your design.
Best Luck.


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## Tony1212 (Aug 26, 2013)

> 4 ft and 1 inch to the bottom of the cover plate. that way you can lean a sheet of plywood up against the wall and still use the plug
> 
> - squazo


This is what I did. Very convenient. Doesn't interfere with any cabinets, upper or lower and the outlets are far enough off the bench height so that cords won't get in the way when using power tools at the bench.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

I like having some in the ceiling.


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

Remember, ALL 120v receptacles in a garage or shop MUST be gfi protected, not only those near sinks. I put an in wall timer connected to 3 receptacles for a charging station. Push the 60 minute button, and the chargers are not running all the time when not needed. And definitely have the lights on a separate circut from receptacles. And a generator must be connected through a transfer switch, either Auto or manual, that disconnects the utility power connection. If not, it can backfeed the transformer, jumping the voltage up to 2400volts or higher, and kill or injure utility workers trying to restore power.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

My shop is not in a garage or on a concrete floor and has no plumbing. I am thinking that I don't require GFCI on all outlets. I haven't really researched this but if wooden shops or outbuilding require GFCI I may then just go ahead with some GFCI breakers rather than the outlet verity. I do do some cutting outside in the yard when dealing with long boards or to conceive space for a project. I was going to place a retractable cord on an GFCI circuit to pull out there when needed.

I know that a transfer switch is needed for a generator and I use a manual one, me. I am the only one who can start it and just throw the main prior to engaging the 220 generator breaker. I know this is not a code compliant solution but I only use in an emergency. My old generator seized up in my damp crawl space about 8 years ago and I never replaced it. I will just have everything "ready" in the event I get a major ice or snow event. If the need presents itself I will get a natural gas one with a real transfer switch.


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## Fresch (Feb 21, 2013)

> Remember, ALL 120v receptacles in a garage or shop MUST be gfi protected, not only those near sinks. I put an in wall timer connected to 3 receptacles for a charging station. Push the 60 minute button, and the chargers are not running all the time when not needed. And definitely have the lights on a separate circut from receptacles. And a generator must be connected through a transfer switch, either Auto or manual, that disconnects the utility power connection. If not, it can backfeed the transformer, jumping the voltage up to 2400volts or higher, and kill or injure utility workers trying to restore power.
> 
> - ibewjon


This is very important! Generator 
Thanks for pointing it out.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

Like hairy, I put some outlets (both 120V and 240V) in the ceiling, but all my wall outlets are like many other…up high enough you can lean a piece of ply against the wall and not block the outlet. The only exceptions are the ones under the windows. The oultets are all 2 gang as well (except the 240V), giving me 4 plugs at each spot.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

> The oultets are all 2 gang as well (except the 240V), giving me 4 plugs at each spot.
> 
> - Fred Hargis


I have been giving this a lot of thought. Putting two outlets on separate circuits on the opposite side of the same stud does not appeal to my desire to limit cutouts. Since I have a roll of it on hand I think I will run 12/3 with ground to double gang boxes and put all of the left receptacles on one circuit and the right on another.

I have seen several comments for ceiling outlets ans that's a possibility but it got me thinking. I may add a floor outlet box or two since it is a wood floor. I like the kind that have a cover with a slot for the cord and sit at an angle so the cover can be closed whether in use or not. Since my shop has been a drop cord hell I would love to not have my table saw cord drooping back to the wall.

I really appreciate all of the input fellow LJ's have given me. Thank you!


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

GFI:. Yes, NEC, article 210.8(A)(2), garages, AND also accessory buildings, not habitable, and limited to storage areas, WORK AREAS, and similar uses. ALL 15 and 20 amp 120 volts receptacles SHALL HAVE gfi protection . And you can NOT use 12/3 with gfi breakers, as those require individual neutrals for each circut. You will need separate 12/2 w/g for each circut. And receptacles in crawl spaces and unfinished basements also are to be gfi.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> I like having some in the ceiling.
> 
> - hairy


I did that too. Instead of hardwiring all of my overhead lights. I am using the plugs they come with. Cheap Azz lighting, you never know how long they will last anymore. You used to just mount them, and expect several changes of bulbs before even thinking about the light. I've gotten some that didn't last the first light back when I was using T lamps. With today's LED you can hardly afford to change the strips, versus the lower prices you can buy the entire light. it's a PIA, but it is not much money, where this costs us is in landfills, filled with useless crap, just because everything is throwaway.

So we set a grid of plugs at 6' spacing, and I can just plug one in where I need it. That has left a bunch open, so I could drop a cord pretty easily if needed.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

> GFI:. Yes, NEC, article 210.8(A)(2), garages, AND also accessory buildings, not habitable, and limited to storage areas, WORK AREAS, and similar uses. ALL 15 and 20 amp 120 volts receptacles SHALL HAVE gfi protection . And you can NOT use 12/3 with gfi breakers, as those require individual neutrals for each circut. You will need separate 12/2 w/g for each circut. And receptacles in crawl spaces and unfinished basements also are to be gfi.
> 
> - ibewjon


Are you sure this is in dry buildings? I follow you in a shop with water, in a dry shop like mine I went the entire permit build with inspections, and I don't have a GFI in the shop. I hate those weak tripping all the time POS's The inspector never said boo in my shop about GFI. He talked about "dust proof" and wouldn't sign off until I brought down the dust collector. Licensed electrician, the entire shebang. Where I am in Ohio it is said to be one of the pickier counties for getting a permit inspection passed too. Not a GFI anything in the entire building.


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

I ran some high, 4+ ft would be good as mentioned. But I also ran some low, That gives me access to power under workbenches. That can reduce the number of cords that have to lay across workbenches. I also spaced them about every 4ft along the wall. Adhering to code for number per circuit.

Inevitably you will have things covering an outlet. But if you put in plenty, that won't matter. They're just so easy to put in with new/remodel construction, that why not? Also, consider making some switchable I did that in one spot where I knew I would want to plug some under cabinet lights in, and that gave me a simple way to wire the lights (plug in), yet have a single switch to turn them on.

If you have a lot of outlets, then duplex should be fine. I think if you have enough small power tools you want to leave plugged in all the time, most people would use a power strip. Though quads give you some flexibility, like using half for a switch if you want.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

> GFI:. Yes, NEC, article 210.8(A)(2), garages, AND also accessory buildings, not habitable, and limited to storage areas, WORK AREAS, and similar uses. ALL 15 and 20 amp 120 volts receptacles SHALL HAVE gfi protection . And you can NOT use 12/3 with gfi breakers, as those require individual neutrals for each circut. You will need separate 12/2 w/g for each circut. And receptacles in crawl spaces and unfinished basements also are to be gfi.
> 
> - ibewjon


Granted it is an older 2008 NEC but mine in 210.8(A)(2) "accessory buildings that have a floor at or below grade". Mine is actually above grade so I think I may be good. I may not run the 12/3 w/ground just in case this comes up later but the cheap in me says I might. I had an employee buy 250 feet to install a two three way switches six feet apart.


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## ibewjon (Oct 2, 2010)

Depends on what year code is adopted where you live. And the inspector. What is safety worth? If you buy the bargain gfi's, you get what you pay for. I have no tripping problems. Buy name brand, and go with 20 amp. You can use 1 gfi to feed each circut on the wall. So the most you need is 6 or 8. Less than $100 buys a lot of safety.


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## Woodmaster1 (Apr 26, 2011)

+1 on the 4' 1" that's what I did. I also put 1 220 recipticle on each wall. I was lucky my trench was only 3' to the utility pole.


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## Tony1212 (Aug 26, 2013)

Just some more ideas.

I ran all my lights on a separate circuit. That way if one of my tools pops a breaker, the lights stay on.

Like I said earlier, I kept all my outlets high enough to put a sheet of plywood under, but I also have double gang boxes with 4 outlets. Each side is on a separate circuit just in case I need to run two things, like a saw and my shop vac.

Each circuit in those doubled up boxes have different colored outlets so I can tell which is which.

Each outlet is installed so that the ground lug is up. That way if a plug isn't fully inserted and a nail or screw falls on it, it won't short the two power lugs.

My air compressor is on its own circuit because it turns on unexpectedly. I don't want to be running a saw and have that kick on and pop a breaker in the middle of a cut.

All of my wiring is in conduits on the outside of the wall so I can tie into easier if I want to add an outlet.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

Even if not technically required I am going to make the first outlet on each circuit a GFCI. That way if I happen to plug a drop cord into any and pull outside I am covered. I am using the using the mini or two breakers in each slot to save room for a couple of 220V that will occupy four of the 8 available slots. All will be 20 amp and I won't skimp on the quality of the GFCI's. Buy the cheap one twice and what have you saved?

Along with the buried service I went ahead and put a 3/4" water line in to a frost proof hose connection about a foot away from the building for convenience.


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

My shop has a lot of wall mounted workbench. I placed outlets on the front edge of the workbenches spaced 6' apart; much more convenient than having to reach over the bench to plug in a cord; plus it allows more "reach" for a corded tool. Remember to place your lighting on separate 15A breakers and outlets on 20A breakers doing the leap frog thing.


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## controlfreak (Jun 29, 2019)

I am free from drop cord hell at last. I ended up using two GFCI and than feeding from them to the rest of the outlets. I made each double gang box have almond on the left side fed by a 20 amp breaker and a white on the right fed by another breaker. A outdoor 100 amp panel was used to save precious wall space. Lighting has its own circuit too. While I had the trench dug I added a 3/4 waterline to a frost proof yard hose connection so I can have water available just outside my door. Now its time to insulate and get some 1/2" plywood up to hang some french cleats on. I never realized how much time I spent juggling cords. It was real nice not to have to sweep up around them too.

Thanks for all the good LJ's advice here.


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## rustfever (May 3, 2009)

STOP!
No matter how many you think you need, AT LEAST DOUBLE THE AMOUNT.

Just completed my new shop a few months ago and realize now that I forgot about all of the battery chargers, task lights, small fans, heat gun, glue gun….........and on and on, and on!

Always install Double Duplex outlets [aka: 4 plex], never just duplex

Add ceiling outlets for power cord reels, [Yes, REELS!] spot lights. A hanging cord is much better than than tripping over a drop cord.


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## Mosquito (Feb 15, 2012)

Add me to the list of people that put their outlets 4'1" off the floor. I also put a double-gang box every 4 feet (every 3rd stud), alternating 2 circuits all the way around. I did double gang so that I could have 4 outlets, or a switch and an outlet, or whatever combination of 2 things I wanted (maybe a twistlock and standard outlets, whatever). I only populated half of it, so I've got blanks in one side and outlet in the other for all of them at the moment. Also added outlets in the ceiling for the reason Rustfever mentioned, re tripping hazards.

The other thing I did too, was color code my 120v circuits. It looks odd in the shop, but once I explain it people usually understand.
Circuit 1 is white outlets and cover plates
Circuit 2 is black outlets and cover plates
Circuit 3 is gray outlets and cover plates
Circuit 4 is Almond outlets and cover plates

I also have a set of 4 outlets across the front of the shop ceiling that are switched (2 switches with 2 outlets per side). I use it for the "good" lighting, and the 12 recessed can lights are the "not working on something" lights, as they aren't as bright and are 3000k lights instead of 5000k. I'm quite happy with the set up currently


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