# veritas aluminum straightedge: somewhat dissapointed



## bobasaurus

I just received a 24" aluminum lee valley / veritas straightedge I had ordered. Given the usual high quality of tools from lee valley, I was expecting it to have a perfectly flat, smooth edge that I could use to check wood and tools for flatness. It does seem to be flat, but the quality of the machined edge is not very good. It still has the circular milling marks on the surface:










The picture softens them a bit, but I can feel the small bumpy ridges while running a finger across it. This may not be a big issue to some, but I was really expecting an absolutely flat and smooth edge given the cost and reputation. The edge bordering the milled surface has also been eased a bit, giving it a rounded-over look that makes it very difficult to visually tell if something is flat below it, unless I hold a super bright flashlight behind it. Maybe a set of feeler gauges is necessary, but with just an ordinary ruler I could do a better job of checking surfaces with my eyes.

Maybe I'm just nitpicking here… does anyone else have one of these with similar machining? I'm not sure if this is really a big enough issue to bother returning it. Are the lee valley steel straightedges better than the aluminum in terms of machining?


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## Tedstor

For the $27.50 that tool cost, I wouldn't expect NASA specifications. I think LV advertises .003 accuracy over the entire length of the tool. That ain't bad for $27.50 (assuming its within spec). 
You could probably get a Starrett straight edge with no milling marks….........but expect to pay a considerable premium.


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## Bob42

I would call them and ask if they maybe had a problem with it. Can't hurt to ask.


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## jusfine

I have one of their longer straight edges, I never noticed if it still had mill marks, and it does what I want it for, which is checking the jointer now and then.


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## live4ever

My 36" is the same way, and it has never failed me in doing what it's supposed to, including checking jointer table co-planarity with feeler gauges. For the cost it's a great value and unless you're trying to achieve machinist specifications, will do anything you need to around a woodworking shop.


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## FatherHooligan

I kind of like the marks on the bottom or the 48" one I use. It seems to sit and stay better than if it was glass smooth. I thought the marks on the bottom were deliberately put there…maybe I've been wrong all along LOL!


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## bobasaurus

Yeah, I'm probably overreacting on this. It does seem to be a well-made tool in all other regards, and I'm sure I can still use it in the shop. Thanks for the feedback. I'll be changing jointer knives later today with it, so hopefully it will serve me well.


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## BillWhite

It is aluminum, not steel. It will be milled, not ground. Don't want this to sound like a short answer, but that's what it will be.
Ever seen the saw tops with that finish?
Bill


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## Bertha

You could always take it to a machine shop to get it surfaced.

Just kidding. Bad joke. Sorry.


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## PurpLev

curious - is this the back (wide) side? or the edge (narrow) side of the straight edge. Since the usability of the tool is with the EDGE (as in straight-EDGE) as long as the edge is within spec the machining on the back really has no play here.

that said - never hurts to call LV and ask.


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## tnwood

I've had mine for many years and it is machined as well. Actually, the machine marks give me a warm, fuzzy feeling that it is straight. I don't know what tolerances it has or is purported to have but it works well enough for me and my "close enough" view of the world.


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## Sawkerf

You're kidding, right? You expected polished surfaces for $27.50?? Those mill marks won't harm your straightedge in any appreciable way.

The milling was probably done with a liquid bath to prevent overheating. Polishing would probably distort the aluminum pretty badly due to localized heating during polishing.


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## macgee

This is an old thread but I just ordered one. It definitely has a potato chip/banana curve going sideways. I measured it to 6mm (almost 1/4") out of straight from one end to the other. You can easily see it looking down the straight edge, the curve is much more pronounced on 1/3rd of the blade, not a even arc.

So using it on it's side is totally out, I know there's only one grounded side.

I called Lee Valley and they said it's within specs!

It's a bit disconcerting buying your absolute reference tool for your shop and you see it curved.

Now the grounded side appears straight but I'm unable to check it the entire length as I don't have a good straight edge that long or longer. It looks good against my 24" straight edge.

My concern if it's got a potato chip curve it then it might be twisting?

I have a Stabila level beam that's machine flat and not curved but only 24", I've been very impressed by it. I've had it for years and recently had it checked at a friends machine shop, came under (+/- .0005) the entire length.

I also had the Woodpecker straight edge but returned it because it wouldn't stay upright without holding it, kept falling over; it also had a curve in it but nothing like the Veritas. The Woodpecker has two very fragile thin edges next to each other to keep it up right; the whole piece is quite thin, I was disappointed.

I know these are cheap but I'm blown away Lee Valley doesn't warn you/mention about the large tolerance and to expect a potato chip curve when you receive it. I might not have roughed up my feathers so much when I received it.


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## bobasaurus

Sorry to hear that, I would return the potato chipped one if at all possible despite the rep's claims. I'll check mine when I get home. It has proven a useful tool over the years and is still true (I think), despite my earlier gripes. For the tolerances I'm checking, the milling marks don't matter.


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## macgee

Thanks Allen,

I've got a call to a machinist friend of mine who has a large surface table that I might be able to use.

It's just a drag having to question a brand new reference tool that is suppose to eliminate questions.

A good straight edge is is such a useful tool in a shop. I like the milling marks, they are there for a purpose, less binding.

This is not my first rodeo but have to admit, there is a reason why good straight edges are so expensive but thought it would be worth trying from reputable companies like Veritas and Woodpecker.

I'll post a pic or two of the curve, it's easy to see.


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## tnwood

I've had a 3' model for years and the reference surface is machined. However there shouldn't be that kind of bend in it. It may have been bent in shipping (mine came in a very sturdy cardboard tube) so I would check with LV. They will take it back in any case if you choose not to keep it. That is why I buy from them. Rob Lee knows how to keep happy customers. I'd call them to see if the bend is out of spec - I think it might be. Even if it is not, they will either replace or refund the costs.


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## NiteWalker

I would exchange it. Both my 24" and 38" veritas aluminum straightedges do not have any type of bow or bend.
I'd not call them to see if it's out of spec; I'd call to express that you're not happy with your purchase and would like an exchange.


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## Ocelot

Mine looks similar to yours, and yes, it was slightly curved in the other dimension, which due to the varrying cross-section might, as you question, cause it to twist. All the same, it's way flatter and straighter than anything else of that length that I have.


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## Loren

I would send it back. Sounds annoying.


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## Redoak49

As others have mentioned, I have the same straight edge but the longer version and it has the identical machining marks on it. It has been a great tool for me setting up a cabinet saw, planer, jointer, etc. It is more than straight enough and accurate for any wood working job that you would use it for.

If you expect it to be the same tolerances as a machinist would use, I think that you are expecting too much and paying too little. If you want, you could buy a Starrett Straight Edge which has much better tolerances and costs many times more.

This type of thread always leaves me wondering. What kind of accuracy is needed for wood working. We have gotten to the age of the digital caliper, machinist straight edge, feeler gauges, etc which are all nice tools. Do we ever cut a piece of wood to +/- 0.001" or make certain that something is square to less than 0.01°. I certainly can not do it.

Maybe, we are just over thinking how accurate our tools need to be. Practice and skills are going to be a lot more important to make a good piece of furniture than a couple of thousandths on a straight edge.


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## macgee

Thanks everyone, I did call them and they said to me that it's normal and within spec. I said really, then asked them what is the acceptable banana bend tolerance over 36"? They said they need to get back to me.

I do have a old well used 4' machined stainless straight edge that I've had for years for mechanical drafting but it was hard to check against it because the 4' straight edge is only 1/8" thick so I can only get about 25" of the Veritas to make contact (machined edge on machined edge) with the other straight edge because of the curve. I know this is not what the Veritas straight was meant for but you won't really be able to check anything thinner than 1/4" wide over approx. 24" because of the curve.

I agree with statements about how much accuracy is needed in woodworking but this is meant to set up my table saw, jointer and other steel surface machinery and used as an absolute reference against my other tools, not against wood. I don't expect it to be a Starrett but when pulling it out of the box and seeing a sideways curve this much leaves a big question if it's accurate or not, If I had an accurate straight edge this size or bigger to check it against properly then I would not have needed to buy this in the first place.

I already spent too much time wondering about if it is or not and that's not what a straight edge should be about. It's suppose to be a reference to eliminate doubts of being straight or NOT.

Note: This is about sideways curve and not the machined edged.

Here are some Pics of the 38" Veritas butted up against (as close as possible) to my old 48" straight edge but the curve is actually more pronounced than how it shows in the photo's, it's hard to photograph the entire length and actual curve:


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## MarioF

That´s supposed to be a straightedge?, there is no way any rep would look at that and tell you it is, I own a Starret 24" and there is no way you would see any light seeping from it. Maybe it was accidentally bent during shipping. I was thinking on getting a 36" aluminum from them but not with those specs.


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## NiteWalker

"Do we ever cut a piece of wood to +/- 0.001" or make certain that something is square to less than 0.01°. I certainly can not do it."

Wood? Absolutely not. 
But machine setup? It's important to align things as close as possible so cumulative error doesn't sneak up on you and cause problems later on.

Practice and skill will not prevent kickback/wood burning if your table saw fence isn't parallel to the blade/miter slot.

Setup is probably more important than the actual woodworking.


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## bowedcurly

for 27.50 it should have titanium insert with a surface finish of .00004 on starret surftest, just kiddin, we need to quit complaining and make dust, phenolic str edge for me


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## Ocelot

That's not the edge that's supposed to be straight! It's only the machined bottom that is supposed to be straight.


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## macgee

Your right, I don't mean to be complaining out loud but just letting others know what they'll be getting when they buy this straight edge, so they don't go through what I just went through. It's a somewhat disappointment.

It would be much better if Lee Valley would just write in the description that a sideways curve is to be expected and not to worry so when customers open the box they won't say: "what the F*** ?" when they check it the first time. Because if it arrives curved then you then wonder if it's also twisting.


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## macgee

Last night I was able to go use a friends Starrett large 4' x 6' surface table and his 48" Starrett straight edge to check the Veritas straight edge and then today stopped by and had lunch with a client who sells $50K cnc machines. Both measurement results and comments were the exact same: Return it!

Both said, that it should not be considered a straight edge anymore than a level you can get at Home Depot. The machined surface edge was cut by a machined bit and not grounded or treated like a proper straight edge, because of this; both people think the sideways banana curve was caused when they milled the straight edge with a flat milling bit creating a lot of friction & heat causing it to bend. When done properly it's immersed in cooling fluids when milled but that takes expensive gear among other things.

Mine did have a slight upward curve in the middle but maybe that's also within specs but with the banana curve in it should be able to stay up right really well but mine did not and both think that there must be a slight side twist causing to fall (tipsy) over more easily.

Like a lot people said, it's a straight edge for a casual non critical user and it's only $40 plus shipping and that's exactly what I got a good looking inexpensive straight edge that's not exactly a real straight edge.

It's a good lesson to learn and back it went to Canada. Probably the best thing for a straight edge is the longer German made 48" Stabila level.

It's longer, more stable, has the same tolerance or better but without any banana curves aside from color and has an excellent built in level for about $65


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## MrRon

I've seen aluminum flat bar stock from Lowes with a better finish than that on your straightedge and just as straight. You can check the straightedge easily. Place it on a large sheet of paper or something large enough to hold the entire straightedge. With a pencil or ballpoint pen, draw a line from end to end. Swap the straightedge end-for-end and align the two end points; drawn another line. They should be parallel. If there is any deviation from parallel, you will see it and even be able to measure it.


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## macgee

MrRon,

Your totally right, I ended up getting the new Empire Blue e2g 48" level ($50) at HD (big box) and it blows the Veritas away as a straight edge in every way, it's pretty embarrassing; on top of that I can check & dial in the surface level at the same time. Stablia no longer makes a level that has a machined straight edge until you spend over $120.

I even measured the new maroon Husky 48" level and it was dead straight as well on the starrett surface table, it was better than the Veritas. Both were below approx .0008" over the entire length.

Chosen the Empire because the top & bottom were both machined, the ends are removable and when laid on it's side it was dead square to the straight edge and surface table so it can be used as a square to check the jointer fence when check the surface.

Also, If you need a good cheap straight edge, try the 48" Husky at Home Depot for $29.

The Veritas is now more than a somewhat disappointment.


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