# Live Edge Table Top W/Gap in Center



## Doublelive (Jun 2, 2012)

I am about to start a table. I am planning on using live edge lumber. I have found a few very nice pieces for sale locally. The issue i need help resolving is in order to get the desired width i need to marry 2 slabs together. This will leave a gap approx 1" x 16" in the center of the table. Can I fill this some how with a clear coat? The total length is 92".I would like to keep the look of the live edge in the center if possible as it makes for a very attractive table top.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

I'm guessing you wouldn't want to use a butterfly, ala Hayakawa?


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## jdmaher (May 4, 2011)

Hmmm . . .

That's an interesting idea. The gap would just be at the center of the length? Got pics?

As Jonathon said, West Systems Epoxy would do the job. My first inclination would then be to epoxy the whole top, but I think that might be too "plastic" looking (so, a BAD IDEA). Would you add any color to the epoxy (maybe go for an amber tint), or just go clear?

It might be really nice if the support were also wood worth peeking at. Will it be a trestle table?


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## ClintSearl (Dec 8, 2011)

Why does it have to be filled? Leave it open.


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## Doublelive (Jun 2, 2012)

Jim…yes the gap would only be in the center due to the slight curve to the tree, when bookmatched both pieces will be trimmed and joined together but i dont want to get too narrow and taking another 3-4 out of the width will bring me below 40". i do like the idea of amber


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## jdmaher (May 4, 2011)

I'm sure there's someone on LJ who mixes stone (et al) with woods and can offer design ideas about simulating amber with tinted epoxy. Maybe with inclusions? (A leaf of the same type of tree? Maybe a costume jewelry bee?) What is that wood?

You might want to fill in knots or streaks with dark colored epoxy, as well (if they are missing wood).

Me, I think I might take an inch or so in the middle to get a solid joint on the ends, with the void only in the middle of the length. And I think I'd round out those corners, asymetrically. The squarer side looks just okay, but the clipped corners are a bit jarring. Just enough curve to "naturalize" the edges.

Looks like you got a great project underway! I hope we'll see pictures as you move along.


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## Gene01 (Jan 5, 2009)

Jim,
That was my first thought as I do a lot of turquoise and epoxy fills in naturally occurring voids. But, in this case, I still think a couple butterflies would be better looking.


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## Charlie5791 (Feb 21, 2012)

*puts on his rock carving hat*: Soapstone grinds to a fine charcoal gray powder, but sands beautifully. I have a piece of alabaster that makes a white powder. I also have some brown soapstone but haven't seen any since I got this piece. Serpentine would be green, usually like a dark forest green.

*puts on his radio control airplane building hat*: I've tinted epoxy using Testor's plastic enamel. You only need a very small amount. Simulated amber would use yellow and red to achieve a slightly orange tinted yellow.

ONLY SOLVENT BASED colorings. No water based coloring (like food coloring) and you can use acetone or denatured alcohol, but never isopropyl alcohol (it contains water).

Personally, after looking at your photo, I'd not want to "busy up" that gap by doing a lot of stuff in there. The wood is the focus (again… my opinion). I'd be more apt to fill that void with black, knife grade epoxy and let the wood talk.


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## higtron (Jan 26, 2011)

What about an inlay make a inlay piece the shape and perhaps contrasting wood set the inlay on the top. define the the shape useing a sharp xacto knife than highlight the out lined area with a sharp pensil in the knife kerf. use a router to hog out the majority of the hole, than use a sharp chisle and clean up to the line. I think this wood look better than epoxy fill.


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## Chik (Oct 20, 2012)

I just finished a similar (fir) slab and I have to go with Charlie and would recommend a simple 'knife-grade' black epoxy - stay away from using a clear epoxy . It somehow makes the void look like a flaw. The black epoxy does not distract from the piece. Emphasize the grain & character of the wood… I would sand VERY carefully and thoroughly - at least to 600 gr, followed by several coats of Deft Danish Oil & 2-3 coats of a good paste wax. Good Luck. Please let us see some progress pics.


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