# Need Super Durable Finish suggestions for Plywood box



## lorne17 (Oct 20, 2008)

Hello there,

I am making an outdoor camping chuckbox (see what I am talking about here: http://blog.rei.com/camp/how-to-build-your-own-camp-kitchen-chuck-box/) out of balsa plywood. It's super light ply, but it's super porous. So I'm trying to figure out what product to coat the entire box in to make it basically impenetrable!

My first thought, was spray paint with an outdoor clear spray paint that protects it. Then I didn't think that'd be good enough as this will be standing on legs that will move and drag in dirt and rocks in the forest and likely scratch the finish and then suck water in!

My second thought was a truck bed liner, those things are super tough and durable. But I read that they likely would be difficult to clean. Since I'm using this for a camp "kitchen" there will be food, etc that gets on it so I'd like to keep it so I can easily clean it.

My latest thought is to do a poured resin over it. However with all the undulations of surfaces, etc, I figured this may be difficult to ensure everything is coated and covered. Plus this resin is expensive!

So with all that said, what do you suggest? I'm open to anything at this point. Granted, I don't want to spend a ton, but I also want to protect it to avoid wasting all the hard work in making this box.

Thanks in advance!
Lorne


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## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

Oil enamel paint?


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## StephenO (Jun 7, 2011)

Maybe something for hardwood flooring…


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## gmc (Jun 30, 2012)

I would use a stain/dealer as you assemble it. Make sure you let it soak in and seal everything. Then use an oil based poly for the protective coating. The sealer would insure you get all the wood pours sealed from absorbing anything and the poly would add a layer of protection from dings and scratches. You could use any type of poly but you want it thick to protect it. Just my thoughts on how to do it and keep the cost down. I figure you know not to seal where you are going to glue until the joints have dried.


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

First, what you want to do isn't possible…at least not with the finishes available to us mere mortals (IMHO, of course). Second, a good coat of an oil based exterior paint would be as good as it gets….and better than almost all other common choices. I'd use a primer (also oil based exterior) and then maybe 3 coats of the paint. I would not use an oil based paint on the inside, however…it will smell for a very long time. For that a good 100% acrylic will have to do.


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## lorne17 (Oct 20, 2008)

Thanks for all the responses all.

GMC - unfortunately most of it is already assembled! Oops!

Fred - I agree, there is no product that will be perfect, however I feel I can get something that will be close and protect it longer and stronger than other products.

Finally, I was also thinking of doing a garage floor epoxy paint. Before I do that I will sand the box, caulk all the joints and corners. Then coat it in epoxy. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/1-Part-Acrylic-Interior-Exterior-Concrete/dp/B01M9IQH10/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497362242&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=garage+floor+epoxy#customerReviews

Or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPZQHHB/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I36FOEVNG83ES9&colid=1XRJ0Z22FCBEL&th=1

Thanks,
Lorne


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## ScottM (Jul 10, 2012)

Take a look at epoxy bar top finishes.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

I like your and Scott's idea of epoxy - either paint or bar top. Also, it would seem to me that some type of steel corner protectors might help the overall durability.


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## dday (Jun 27, 2014)

All of these suggestions are good.. for the "food" bearing surfaces ( those likely to get splashed upon or worked on) have you considers covering them with a thin, stainless sheet? It could be bent around any corners and it would be easy to keep clean and stain free.


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## Bluenote38 (May 3, 2017)

Marine plywood and Marine Spar Varnish. Both are specially formulated to survive for an extended period around humid salt environs. The surface will chalk when it starts to fail (this is a UV failure). Lightly sand off the chalk and revarnish. On a boat that's 2-3 years on the deck. Or build with teak and apply teak oil annually


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

Carbon fiber layering with nanotechnology.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> Carbon fiber layering with nanotechnology.
> 
> - TheFridge


+1 Since your going to be floating it down the river, I see no other way


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## lorne17 (Oct 20, 2008)

Thanks for everyone's comments! While I wish I can do some suggestions, they are out of reach . But floating down a river would be perfect!

Also marine plywood is out of the question since it's mostly already built. But good to think of for future projects. Weight would be something to consider however.

What steel edging do you recommend I used for the corners/etc? Perhaps I can get aluminum trim pieces to protect it but also keep weight down.

Here's an image of what my project will be:



















Thanks,
Lorne


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

When I mentioned the corner protectors, I was thinking about something like this. I'm sure something similar could be had in aluminum.

However, looking at your design, it's hard to see where they would be useful. I was picturing a box with corners like the one in the link you posted.


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## lorne17 (Oct 20, 2008)

Yea, you're right I don't think those would work. I was planning on using Plasti-Dip on the feet for dragging around, etc. Maybe instead I just get steel/aluminum angles to cover the feet.

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-U-Channel-Unpolished-Lengths-Thickness/dp/B00CNLYMXU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497381517&sr=8-1&keywords=aluminum+U+channel+1%2F2%22


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

They do make lexan corner protectors.
Just a site I googled..


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

Lorne, I've been there and done that. Use spray on water based poly. If you want it painted, do so first. Then spray 3 complete coats of water based poly on all surfaces before assembly. After assembly spray 2 coats of water based poly over the whole thing to seal the joints between surfaces. This will give you a water proof, heat proof finish. It is just like the bar top sealer just not as thick and easier/cheaper to do.


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## lorne17 (Oct 20, 2008)

Thanks for the suggestions Papadan. Do you have a brand you recommend? Do you recommend the spray cans or an actual air sprayer/paint gun?

What are your thoughts on Garage Floor Epoxy?


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## Hermit (Oct 9, 2014)

For corner guard, I buy vinyl fence posts (I can only find at lowes) 6' long, without holes. I then rip them in half on the table saw twice so I get 4 pieces out of one post. I do property maintenance at disabled care homes with lots of wheelchairs and this is the toughest/cheapest material I have found. Yet to have one tore off by a wheelchair. Also would be nice and light in your application.


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## papadan (Mar 6, 2009)

Lorne, I use Minwax water based polycrylic









Just use the spray cans. I have never used any floor epoxy so can't say about it


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

Doesnt sound like you will leave it outside for months, so uv isnt really a concern. I would use oil based poly (mw brand), thin 1:1, slop on with a brush and keept it wet for 20 min or so, wipe off excess. A day later do the same thing. At least 3 coats. When it stop absorbing you are ready to put on finish coats with poly thinned 10-20%, 1or 2 should do.


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## cavemancarpenter (Mar 27, 2008)

Take Gorilla Glue and rub it into the wood with a rag. You will need to wipe of the excess in about 10 to 15 minutes. I know it sounds crazy but it works extremely well and is completely weather resistant. I have done this on outdoor furniture and after about 5 years still looks like new.


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## lorne17 (Oct 20, 2008)

Cavemancarpenter: That's a great idea on the gorilla glue. How much would you suggest I need? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LAAQ/ref=asc_df_B00006LAAQ5030083/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00006LAAQ&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167120584204&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2727306863818036776&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028771&hvtargid=pla-315800644775

My other product I'm leaning towards at the moment is this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IPC28G/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1S5E592JCI6PW&colid=1XRJ0Z22FCBEL

Would you put a finish on top of the Gorilla glue as well. Or just leave the gorilla glue as is?

Thanks,
Lorne


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## lorne17 (Oct 20, 2008)

Thanks for everyone's ideas and responses. I'm getting close to ordering what I need! I like the Aluminum U-channel however my box is a bit tighter than I had hoped, so that may not fit when sliding the base over the top portion. I may have to recut some items on the base of the box!


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## Sark (May 31, 2017)

Hey Caveman, I like your Gorilla glue idea, though I hate working with polyurethane glues. What does the finished product look like?

Also lorne17 if your're going the polyurethane paint route, be aware that you must sand between coats.

Something else to check out: Sikkens CETOL product line. Sikkens developed an exterior finish that is designed to slowly wear away without flaking. If the finish isn't flaked or pealing, it becomes really easy to recoat. They have a fairly extensive line of marine vanishes/gels.


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## Jeremymcon (Jul 16, 2016)

Consider a marine epoxy like west system. They're supposed to be very durable.


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## builtinbkyn (Oct 29, 2015)

Cabot Australian Timber Oil. Just drench the entire project with it. I put it on the pergola I made for the yard last year. It's been thru one Summer/Winter cycle and it looks like it did when I put it up last year. It gets direct sun and there's been no bleaching, no checking or anything else. Very impressed with the stuff.


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## Sailsnsaws (Dec 4, 2014)

I second the West System epoxy but also layer it with fiberglass mat. It will disappear but add strength and durability. Then paint it with a Marine top coat. You've now got a balsa cored fiberglass box.


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