# how can I mount 5 ft floating shelves(solid walnut) to concrete wall



## Tunalmelt (Jan 14, 2015)

First post here,

Working on these floating shelves made of black walnut with a live edge. 
Shelves will be floating on a concrete wall
they are 10 inches deep 5 ft long and 1.5 inches thick.

Anyone had and success with floating wall brackets?
have any clue what keyhole mounts can hold in terms of weight?

Im open to any and all suggestions

Thank you!

Al


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

Keyhole mounts (the metal ones mortised into the back) might be able to work, but given the weight of such a piece of lumber, it's likely you'd need several. Luckily you won't be hunting for a stud every 16" and you can put them wherever you need. I'd use 2" tapcons every 6" - 8" for good insurance and the largest diameter that would physically fit into the keyhole mount. The screws (especially the top one) that hold the metal plate into the mortise should be substantial as well. Most are designed for minimum tension and maximum shear, this setup would represent the inverse. 
Another option would be a 1 1/4" x 1/4" metal bar with steel dowels welded in and protruding from the flat side that could be mortised and drilled into the back of the shelves after being attached to the concrete wall via several tapcon screws. It would be a lot of work, but should offer great support.


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## dawsonbob (Aug 5, 2013)

Just out of curiosity, is it solid concrete, or cinder block?


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## Tunalmelt (Jan 14, 2015)

Im pretty sure its solid concrete. Its for a friends of mine for his apartment in london and he wall seemed to be solid concrete.


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## LeTurbo (Jan 22, 2014)

I'd be inclined to drill deep into the back of the shelf, so that I could slide it onto some threaded rod which, in turn, is drilled into the concrete with rawlbolts. It depends on what they're expected to hold - certainly books and the like add huge weight.


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## splatman (Jul 27, 2014)

Drill 1/2" holes in back of shelf, and matching 1/2" holes in wall, and "dowel" the shelves to the wall with 1/2" steel rods. This will also work for wood-framed walls. Just make sure the holes are centered in the studs. This is really just a heavy-duty dowel joint. Use figure-8 tabletop fasteners to keep the shelves from sliding off the rods. Place the exposed half of the fastener on top, so it will be hidden by the objects that the shelf will hold.
The only question is, how deep into the wall and shelf? Maybe 2" into the wall (concrete) or 3" (wood) and 1/2 the width of the shelf into the shelf?


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## Tunalmelt (Jan 14, 2015)

My only concern is making the install as easy as possible for him. His knowledge of any of this is to just about use a level and a driver. Thats why I am a bit weary of him drilling holes into the concrete with metal rods.

Would something like this suffice?
http://www.kitchensource.com/supports-brackets/fb-32136.htm


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## Buckethead (Apr 14, 2013)

Ya… That's a doable option and a very expensive one too. I'd not go that route since a better, stronger method of embedding a rod into the concrete would be far less money. Not rocket science. Pretty simple and straightforward.


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## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

An apartment is normally rented and any holes or rods would have to be removable when they left to 
avoid costly repairs.


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## Tunalmelt (Jan 14, 2015)

once a hole is drilled into the concrete how would i keep the rod fastened into the concrete? concrete epoxy? Just unfamiliar with inserting metal rods into concrete.


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## splatman (Jul 27, 2014)

That's where the Figure-8 fasteners come into play. One end of the fastener is fastened to the shelf. The other end to the wall, to hold the shelf. As long as the shelf stays on, the rods will stay put.
After removal (like when vacating an apartment) the holes can be filled will wall patch compound.
For a permanent install, concrete epoxy is probably the way to go. Score the rods to allow the epoxy a mechanical grip.


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