# Drywall Mud As A Grain Filller



## andy_P (Aug 13, 2009)

Have any of you ever used Drywall Mud as a grain filler for open pore woods? I just saw this on a demo video for finishing a guitar. You have to color the mud with a water based dye or stain, but it sure seems to be an inexpensive alternative to marketed wood grain fillers. and it would be available at big box stores saving a trip to or shipping costs from a woodworking supply house.

I'm always interested in hearing what you guys have to say.

Andy


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Andy, you could try it on scrap and report back. I have heard of it being used to seal the ends of MDF prior to painting so it is a possibility.


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## REO (Sep 20, 2012)

bondo auto body filler works.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Back when I started my finishing business the "competition" used to use drywall mud to cover his window and door trim miter jobs. It looked like CRAP. Stained like CRAP. When Painted it looked like CRAP. and needless to say I got the finishing jobs around town.
I know products have changed over the years. Just saying.


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

Filling pores with a homemade slurry

A watery mix of insoluble materials is a slurry, that means an oil/varnish, such as Watco Danish Oil, mixed with sanding dust. "The Watco darkens the pores for contrast," " pour a liberal amount on the surface, then sand vigorously with 100-grit-the paper has to produce sanding dust."

With burlap, a towel, or an old washcloth, pack the slurry into the wood. " don't wipe off any excess slurry," " just let it dry overnight. Then, sand it again, adding more oil if needed. The new sanding dust blends with the original slurry and further fills the pores . This time, wipe off the excess before letting the surface dry. After the second slurrying, all the grain should be filled."

The tinted oil in the slurry will have colored the entire wood surface. To color only the pores requires removing the dried surface oil with more sanding. "If you don't want to stain the wood," "simply use a clear or natural oil, such as linseed oil diluted about one-third with paint thinner. Then your slurry will take on the ambient color of the wood and tend to wash out the grain for an even look (see photo below left). In either case, I let the surface dry for several days before final sanding and the application of a finish coat."


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## jar944 (Jun 19, 2014)

I've used it to fill oak prior to painting for a smooth finish, some grain still shows through with just one application.

I can't see using it on anything that is not going to be painted


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

I have used it, thinned to the consistency of milk, as a stain controller on softwoods. Sand off after it dries and it works well for this.


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## Nubsnstubs (Aug 30, 2013)

Yep, it'll work. Did it on MDF, Particle board, and plywood edges. Works great, less filling for painted stuff…........... Jerry (in Tucson)


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Try Timbermate, it behaves a lot like dry wall mud, comes in all sorts of colors, can be intermixed, virtually no waste, can be sanded easily, is water based hence water clean up/thinning, and is non-toxic!
Because it is water based it needs to be top coated before applying a water based stain/-finish!

It actually works a lot like dry wall mud but, in my opinion, takes stain a lot better!


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## andy_P (Aug 13, 2009)

Thanks for all the advise, guys. I'll let you know how I make out.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Gr8 question andy, and some gr8 answers and solutions above. It'll be interesting to see how any tests come out


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Wood moves. Cured drywall compound does not move. You will have separation at some point. Maybe as a grain filler it might not be noticeable (by some), anything bigger and I think you're asking for trouble. My grain filler for years has been this - http://aquacoat.com/collections/products/products/clear-grain-filler - and I've never had a problem.


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## andy_P (Aug 13, 2009)

Interesting, earl. I've never heard of the product and have never noticed it on any shelves. This is quite a departure from normal grain filling in that it is used after staining instead of as the first step in the process. Do you know where it is available? That web site seems to be aimed at the wholesale market.

Anyone else ever used it? You have to keep in mind, my first thought in using drywall mud is its availability and price. I, of course would not want to sacrifice a good looking finish at that expense.


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## Earlextech (Jan 13, 2011)

Here it is at Woodcraft - http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/857390/Aqua-Coat-Clear-Wood-Grain-Filler-Pt.aspx
If staining, stain first, then fill. If painting, fill first, then paint. You can also add color to it for effect.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

I have used dry wall mud to cover the edges of plywood.
I over filled the edges, sanded them tack ragged ithem, and painted them.
That was some 20 years ago and they still look good.
The only problem with dry wall mud is the dust it created when sanding.

The Timbermate product will work as a grain filler when used as directed as it does not does not shrink, sink, crack or fall out and has an indefinite shelf life. It is non-flammable, non-toxic and can be used to the last gram. .... *oops that sound like a commercial!*

It is available from a number of online places!


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## Hammerthumb (Dec 28, 2012)

I have used pumice and plaster of paris as a grain filler. Both will turn translucent when finish is applied.


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## andy_P (Aug 13, 2009)

Hmmmmmm…...now that would bother me.


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## andy_P (Aug 13, 2009)

Geezohhh!!!!! Why do I even try?

I headed out to my local Lowe's and Home Depot stores to get what I thought I would need for this project. Remember; one of the reasons I even entered into this was the ability to find a woodgrain filler that I could just have on hand and not have to order a specialty item from one of the online suppliers and have to wait for shipping…..and, yes, pay the shipping costs. First of all, neither of the stores carried anything in a dry form of drywall compound that I could mix up as needed in small bags. The smallest I could find was 1.75 Pt tubs of premix. Ok, so for the price, I'll throw away what I don't use if it dries up.

Neither of our stores had any kind of water based dye. Ok, so I'll use some water based General Finishes Stain that I have on hand. The bottom line is that I'm just as well off in going to Rockler, Woodcraft or any of the other suppliers on line, ordering what I need and get it over.

This is the hell of living in a rural community where the nearest "big" city is 100 miles from you. I'll still try my little experiment and see how it ends up, but it does not seem worth the hassle when professional supplies are available albeit at a price….......always at a price.

I also found a lot on the subject on line. Like expressed here, everybody has got a point of view. I guess I will have to see for myself.


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## andy_P (Aug 13, 2009)

See the last paragraph too please.

Regarding my test. Whomever mentioned the size of the particles that make up Drywall Mud had a point and it proved out. The grit is too large to really get into some of the smaller pores in the Mahogany I was testing on. I'm waiting for a shipment of Zisser's Seal Coat to come in and then I'll finish the test with a coat or two of lacquer.

The bottom line for me though is that it is probably best to stick to the supplies that are made for a particular purpose, although some of them don't really produce what they promise. I guess guys like me that live in the boonies will just have to keep paying those shipping charges.

My Porter Cable 890 router just bit the dust today. Anyone know where I can buy just PC 8901 motor? About $187.00 is the best I can see for a new 892 router. I have too many accessories that fit that router to change now. More shipping charges on the horizon….LOL.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Andy, what happened to your PC router?
Brushes, bearings, power cord …... ?


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## TarHeelz (Sep 13, 2012)

I used drywall compound to cover the end grain of plywood shelves once prior to priming and painting with a white oil paint.

Once.

It was a ton of work. It was a mess. It came out somewhere between excellent and mediocre (lots of shelves) based upon how artistic I was feeling that day as went through the shelves.

NOT a time saver.


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## andy_P (Aug 13, 2009)

I have no idea what happened to the router. I decided to clean it up so I removed the entire base plate and router assembly from the router table, cleaned it up and made sure the sides were free and it slid up and down freely in the housing. I used an air compressor to blow all the dust off and tightened the little screws that hold the toothed grid that is activated by the up and down knob and when I put it back together, it would not turn freely. When I turned it on, it sounded labored and then began to smoke. My only guess is that it is either a coincident that it started acting up after I cleaned it, or, and I don't know how, something got into the unit and jammed it up.

Anyway, we happen to be going to "The Big City" today so will stop in at Rockler and pick up a new one. Too bad I can't just purchase the motor. I looked everywhere on line and it is not available as a separate item. $187.00 plus tax will solve my problem…....LOL

Regarding the Drywall mud. Yep, Tarheelz. Won't try that again.


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## andy_P (Aug 13, 2009)

welcome, Dennis. Lots of nice folks here willing to help.


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## oldnovice (Mar 7, 2009)

Andy, you can get rebuilt, factory reconditioned , ones much cheaper at Amazon, $124.

Or here, $119 and free shiping.


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## andy_P (Aug 13, 2009)

Thanks for the tip, oldnovice. I'll take a look. Unless I miss it, I think I'll buy on line from Home Depot. They beat every price I've seen.


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