# A small conference table - the build



## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

*Preparing the boards*

*From my blog:*

Now I start the full-size conference table for a client. This table will be 2X the size of this one I shared here, and submitted to the Winter 2009 Woodworking Awards:










But I will change the edge treatment as follows:










I want to be able do preliminary grain matching, before cutting the boards closer to size. Since at this stage I am *not* flattening the boards, the #3 is perfect and fast for the job:










Rough boards are not perfectly flat, so my planing stop did not do its job. Time to bring out something more substantial - the Gramercy holdfast - one good WHACK!, and I can resume planing:










Cleaned up, so I could use the floor to match the boards before cutting them to length plus about 6 inches:










Now I can better match the boards, and decide where to cut them:










Once cut, I use the power jointer and planer to make these perfectly flat. The edges needed a little tweaking, so I used the "other" jointer, to create a little "spring" in the joint, to minimize the risk of gaps developing near the ends of the table; the boards in the clamps are already done, and the surface between them is perfectly flat; but I still must do the third and fourth boards:










At the end of the day I * had * to peek at the grain on one of the boards for the aprons:










The build continues… Thanks for following along!

Al


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *Preparing the boards*
> 
> *From my blog:*
> 
> ...


This is off to an interesting start and it looks like this is going to be a nice series to see. I am looking forward to the next installment. Construction posts like this give a lot of detail and add a lot of interest in the completed project post.


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## woodworm (Jul 27, 2008)

AlNavas said:


> *Preparing the boards*
> 
> *From my blog:*
> 
> ...


Wow I salute you Al ( since I don't wear hat) for doing board truing (from roughing… to smoothing) all by hand planing. I appreciate your effort and hardwork. Because not only I do not have the skill, I have two small hands with no muscle to flex. 
I'm following your progress - since I started to like working with wood mostly by hand.
Great work Al! 
Thanks for sharing.


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## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

AlNavas said:


> *Preparing the boards*
> 
> *From my blog:*
> 
> ...


Looks like you're off to a good start, Al. I always love it when you get the flake exposed on white oak, then the fun of matching all the pieces together. Waiting for the next installment.


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## Dusty56 (Apr 20, 2008)

AlNavas said:


> *Preparing the boards*
> 
> *From my blog:*
> 
> ...


Excellent blog so far ….I can't wait to see the final results : )


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## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *Preparing the boards*
> 
> *From my blog:*
> 
> ...


looking good, Al.


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *Preparing the boards*
> 
> *From my blog:*
> 
> ...


Thanks, *Scott*! I will be posting from time to time, but mostly as I make true progress.

*Woodworm,*
Thanks! I did the first joining and planing using power tools, and *then* switched to the hand plane to refine the edges to get a sprung joint.

*Tim,*
It is truly exciting to see those flakes come up - agreed!

Thanks, *Dusty*!

And my thanks to you, *Thomas*!


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

*The full-size table: Gluing up the top*

My thanks to all who read and looked at the beginning of the build of the full-size table.

Now I continue, with the glue-up of the boards that will make up the table top. The top will be 1-1/2 inches thick, 30 inches wide, and 60 inches long. At this stage the boards are a little thicker than 1-5/8".

*From my blog:*

After prepping the boards that will make up the table top, it is now time to glue them up. Due to their sheer size, I do this in stages, two boards at a time. Doing it this way removes much of the anxiety associated with large glue-ups.

I apply sufficient glue to get some squeeze out and, using several clamps while carefully lining up the edges as I go, I gradually start clamping down from the center toward the edges. When finished, I normally want a small bead of glue all along the glue line, on both sides of the boards being glued. I then wipe down much of the excess; and, when the remaining glue starts to gel, I scrape it off. The following photo shows one half of the table top immediately after tightening the last clamp; note the size of the glue bead I get:










Once I remove the bulk of the remaining glue I check for flatness, using a good straight edge; the two glue-ups I did today were perfectly flat - a pleasing result after the work that has gone into these so far.










No doubt, the nice flat surface is the result of spending the time with a hand plane to touch up the board edges, in preparation for the glue-up.

*Next:* I will glue the two sets of boards I glued up today. At that point the entire table top will be ready for sanding to final thickness. Since I don't have a machine that will take this huge slab, I will use a friend's wide belt sander. Later I will use another friend's slider to cut the top to final length on his table saw. I hope to document those two critical steps soon.

I think my newly-found muscles are starting to feel better. They ached for two solid days. And, to quote Peter McDonald, one of James Patterson's characters, today "...everything was copacetic…" (1)

Thanks for reading about my build of this table!

(1) The Season of the Machete, Page 75, James Patterson, 1980

.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *The full-size table: Gluing up the top*
> 
> My thanks to all who read and looked at the beginning of the build of the full-size table.
> 
> ...


Al, this is looking good so far. I really enjoy seeing a step-wise construction post, like you are doing with this project. It conveys a lot of information that is simply inferred when looking at only a completed project post.

Nice job.

By the way I like the pad you have put on your clamps. I have been considering adding a cork liner to mine since I occasionally get red marks and surface marring on my projects from my clamps.


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *The full-size table: Gluing up the top*
> 
> My thanks to all who read and looked at the beginning of the build of the full-size table.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Scott!

You will like having the cork liner in place. It prevents marring critical surfaces - not needed for this glue-up, but really desirable for more delicate jobs.

I must find better tape to hold down the cork. The flimsy tape I had on hand when I did lined the clamp surfaces is starting to peel off a little, and can be a nuisance. Just need to *make* a short break to tape down the ends.


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

*The top is ready for sanding *










*From my blog:*

Whew!

Today was time to glue up the two halves of the table top. I trimmed each of the two halves on the table saw, using the crosscut sled. Leaving each half slightly over final length, I tackled the glue-up. Sandy came to the shop to lend a hand, as I did not want clamps moving and lumber falling to the floor.

Three hours late I removed the clamps, scraped the dry glue, and completed preparations for sanding tomorrow. I will drop off this panel at my friend's shop, and will wait for his call. He requested I write down final thickness, width, and length. I may not be able to share you this part of the job - but I hope to snap some photos of his shop.

Next: I will start milling the walnut legs, in preparation for glue-up; the legs will be 3 inches square, so I must mill two halves, and glue them to prepare the legs for final milling prior to machining the mortises on the FMT. I also have to mill some 4/4 (1-inch, rough) quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO), for the aprons; then to the FMT to machine the tenons.

I purchased gorgeous walnut and QSWO at *Simpson & Sons*, a large saw mill just South of town. The people at the mill go out of their way to help customers dropping in to buy one board, or a full truck load. Simpson has "… in stock walnut, maple, white oak, red oak, hickory, hackberry, red elm, and ash, and gun and rifle stock blanks. From 4/4 to 8/4 we have all your furniture grade needs. Planing is available on request. Stock lists and price lists are available by fax…"


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *The top is ready for sanding *
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The top is coming along nicely. It is wonderful to have a resource such as Simpson and Sons available. I would love to have a supplier who not only is located close to home but also has such a wide selection of material. (And let's not forget to mention it is also nice to have a friend with a wide belt sander as well as a wife who doesn't mind pitching in). 

Thanks for the update.


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## JohnGray (Oct 6, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *The top is ready for sanding *
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Lookin' GREAT.


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

*The top is ready for finish*

*From my blog: *

Progress!

The table top is back, cut to final length, and sanded (sorry, no chance to take photos of my friend's amazing shop).

I beveled the edges, using a table edge bit for the topside, and a small, 1/8-inch roundover for the bottom side. Routing the top bevel free-hand requires much care and concentration, as this bit is large:










The bevel profile:










I am very pleased with the overall appearance of this table top. The bevel will provide a much better feel on the arms than a normal table edge:










Hopefully you will get a sense of the size of this router bit. The router base plate is one of two that came with my DeWalt 618, and has the largest opening - the bit's cutting diameter is 2-1/2 inches:










To use such a large-diameter bit one must reduce the router speed to around 10,000-12,000 RPM. In addition, I suggest shallow cuts. I took four passes to route the entire profile.

Now the table is ready for the first coast of Zinsser's Seal Coat. I will apply using a lint-free rag. This results in application of a very thin film of shellac on the oak.

Now, some neat stuff about finishing oak with waterborne coatings - and the reason you pay to access my blog (just kidding…!):

1. White oak, and especially red oak, have high tannin content. White oak may or may not be marginal. This high tannin content makes them acidic.
2. The typical waterborne coatings are very high pH, typically pH 10 or higher.
3. Applying the typical waterborne coating directly on the surface of the oak can cause nasty reactions. For example, it is possible to get bridging and pinholing.
4. Therefore, a work-around is needed.
5. Enter: Zinsser's Seal Coat dewaxed shellac. I apply two very thin coats using a lint-free cloth. I allow it to fry for two hours, sand between coats to 320 grit, and then apply my waterborne coating.
6. For this table I will use Target Coatings' new Emtech 2000wvx alkyd.
7. My client liked the finish on the half-scale tables. As a result, I will use the same finish, and apply 4 coats minimum , using a Fuji Q3 Pro HVLP system.
8. The EM200wvx imparts a very nice straw color to the white oak. And it looks great on walnut (the legs of this table).

*Related posts:*

The full-size table is ready for sanding

The full-size table: Gluing up the top

The full-size table: The beginning

My entry in the Lumberjocks Winter 2009 Woodworking Awards

Thanks for reading, and following along this build!

Al


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *The top is ready for finish*
> 
> *From my blog: *
> 
> ...


Nice job on the top, Al. It looks good and it certainly pays to have a friend with a wide belt sander. You could have done it yourself but, in all likelihood, you would still be sanding.


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *The top is ready for finish*
> 
> *From my blog: *
> 
> ...


Thanks, Scott. I am glad I let the big sander handle this one.


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

*Glue-ups, surface flatness, anxiety, and 100X-200X magnification*

On a previous post, on another forum, my friend rhino commented that removing the glue prematurely will lead to starving of the glue line.

He was right, of course. nd I have photo evidence. Please read on.

From my blog:

I truly must stop reading Christopher Schwarz's blog. First, it cost me $20 for the first copy of the EyeClops. Once I learned what a terrific "toy" it is, I bought another one (this one for $28, as the price went up) for use by our granddaughters.

But now I am glad I bought two copies of this very special toy!

Recent discussion on glue-ups, particularly the table top I have been working on, highlighted to me why it is important to wait to clean the glue until it has gelled well. If one rushes to clean, as I did due to anxiety (to measure table top flatness), the glue line is starved near the surface, as it shrinks.

This first photo shows what the glue line should look like, if one waits:










But, by cleaning the glue at the glue line, voids in the glue line develop - the glue shrinks as it dries and cures:










My woodworking friend "rhino", on this thread on WoodNet, was 100% correct. Of course, I knew this was likely to happen, but anxiety does funny things in the heat of a critical glue-up.

While the EyeClops was in the shop I looked at other features on the table top surface. This one is a small crater, part of a tiny knot near one of the ends of the top:










The side grain on the quarter-sawn white oak looks like this:










Focusing is critical using the EyeClops. And it requires a steady hand, to get good photos. But, once this is learned, it is very easy to use:










Chris, thanks for finding this little treasure!

Al


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *Glue-ups, surface flatness, anxiety, and 100X-200X magnification*
> 
> On a previous post, on another forum, my friend rhino commented that removing the glue prematurely will lead to starving of the glue line.
> 
> ...


That is an interesting tool. I will have to look into one of these.

But at the same time does the void really have any impact on the build? It is not going to run that deep in terms of the overall depth of the top and, if you have to magnify it 100x to see it, you are not going to be able to see it with the naked eye or feel it. If it is necessary to fill then a little additional CA glue and sanding dust should eliminate the void.


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *Glue-ups, surface flatness, anxiety, and 100X-200X magnification*
> 
> On a previous post, on another forum, my friend rhino commented that removing the glue prematurely will lead to starving of the glue line.
> 
> ...


You are right, Scott - in this case, it did not matter one iota.

But our friend rhino, on WoodNet, relates a different experience. He was too aggressive in removing the glue, and the finish was not able to fill in properly. I believe it is best to wait until the glue gels a somewhat, regardless.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *Glue-ups, surface flatness, anxiety, and 100X-200X magnification*
> 
> On a previous post, on another forum, my friend rhino commented that removing the glue prematurely will lead to starving of the glue line.
> 
> ...


I have become a convert to that method of glue removal. I used to think that it had to be removed immediately (I am sure this idea came from following Norm Abram's routines). But letting it gel up is, at least in my opinion, a much better option.

But it does look like the Eyeclops is pretty cool. I may have to look into getting one of these.


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

*Start applying the finish to the top, and set up legs and aprons*

I continue work. For the upcoming several days I will continue applying the finish to the top; today I started applying the Zinsser Seal Coat (shellac) to the underside. And work started on setting up for cutting tenons on the aprons, and mortises on the legs.

*From my blog:*

Sometimes, decisions are tough.

For example, to start the work day today, I debated whether to start applying the Zinsser Seal Coat to the table top as it lay on the workbench, or take into the finishing room. The finishing room won:










I include the following photo to illustrate the importance of using a turntable, to make it easy to arrange things. Since it is critical to be able to properly reach all sides of the work piece, something is needed to make this easy. Imagine YOU between the work piece and the exhaust fan (as in the photo above) when spraying - bingo! You get the idea - spray all over your face, your clothes…

The next photo illustrates the best arrangement: The work piece should be between you, and the exhaust fan -and the turntable is the best way to do it:










Now that I am set up to apply the finish in proper sequence in the finishing room, it is time to start work on the legs and aprons. I milled one test board out of quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO); it is of the same dimensions as the actual table aprons: 1 inch thick, and 4 inches wide. I started carefully laying out the tenons.

The Leigh FMT is a machine that gives extremely accurate results, and lets you dial in the fit; but it requires accurate layouts, and test cuts to dial in the best fit. In the next photo I am carefully marking the center of the width of the board - and I will do something similar when marking the half-thickness. Notice I use calipers to achieve the accuracy I want, and need:










Now I take the apron to the FMT, and start the setup for the test runs - it is important to make sure the side stop fence is set such that the work piece will be centered properly:










After placing the apron against the side stop fence, I adjust the table limit stops (for the X and the Y directions) on the FMT and lock the settings - I don't want things moving once I start cutting mortises and tenons:










The work piece is centered in the table bit opening fairly well. I set the work piece tight up against the joint aligning sight; it looks like a target - and it is:










An amazing thing about the human eye is its ability to excel at comparisons. I believe I centered the work piece quite well in this next photo - if you click on it to enlarge it, you will notice that I actually marked two lines, one from each side of the board, using the calipers; I may be off center by a little less than 0.001″:










Once the work piece is aligned properly, it is time to set the router bit cutting depth. For the aprons I want tenons 2-1/4 inches long, and 1/2-inch wide; they will go into mortises in the 3-inch square legs:










As I will make test cuts with the FMT, and I want to make both the mortises and the tenons using only one setting, I will also need test legs. I milled some waste QSWO, glued it, and now I start milling the glued up test leg. First, I must remove the glue that squeezed out:










After scraping the glue as well as possible, I trim to 3-1/4 inches, square, on the band saw:










By now it was time to head to the house, get some rest, and have dinner (or supper, depending on where you live).

*Next:* I continue applying the finish to the table top. And, while each coat dries, I will continue setting up to cut mortises and tenons using the FMT. And, in between all this, I will get the walnut ready for glue-up of the legs, and start milling the QSWO boards that will be the aprons.

Thanks for following along!

Al


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *Start applying the finish to the top, and set up legs and aprons*
> 
> I continue work. For the upcoming several days I will continue applying the finish to the top; today I started applying the Zinsser Seal Coat (shellac) to the underside. And work started on setting up for cutting tenons on the aprons, and mortises on the legs.
> 
> ...


This is an interesting construction post, Al. It gives a great deal of info that a project post lacks.

I am looking forward to the next installment.


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *Start applying the finish to the top, and set up legs and aprons*
> 
> I continue work. For the upcoming several days I will continue applying the finish to the top; today I started applying the Zinsser Seal Coat (shellac) to the underside. And work started on setting up for cutting tenons on the aprons, and mortises on the legs.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Scott.

Yesterday was mostly business on the phone. But back to the shop this morning. ;-)


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

*Apply varnish to the top, and more on the legs and aprons*

*From my blog:*

*Where I was a while ago:* Application of the Zinsser SealCoat™ (an alcohol-based, wax-free sanding sealer) went well. The secret: Apply very thin coats with a lint-free rag, wiping as you go. Wait a minimum of 2 hours, then sand with 400 grit sandpaper, until smooth to the touch - but don't sand all the way to the wood. Repeat once.

Today: 1) Time to apply the first coat of Target Coatings' EM2000wvx waterborne alkyd varnish:










Also today: 2) I fine-tuned the mortise and tenon fit on a test leg made of scrap, glued-up quarter-sawn white oak (QSWO):










Now, some details.

Setting up the FMT to make the tenons - I don't want to do this while perched 6 feet above the ground, so I do this with the FMT on the workbench:










As a first step, I record all dimensions for the test tenons; this simply makes it easier to tweak the fit:










Just for kicks, I make sure I won't cut through into another mortise. For this I make a new test mortise, at 90° from the first one, on the face where the other tenon will be - I cut this one, to share with YOU:










Now, to cut a test mortise:










This is my view when I remove the router from the FMT:










I wanted a 1/4-inch reveal from the front edge of the leg - and got it:










Now that the mortise and tenon joinery fit has been tweaked, I turn my attention to spraying the table top.

Getting ready to spray took about 10 minutes. The steps:

1. Filter water into one Teflon®-coated aluminum spray cup, using a Fine paint filter - I will use this water to clean the internals of the HVLP system; I will do it after spraying each of the 2 or 3 coats:










2. Stir the top coat. Satin sheen coatings have a "flattening agent" that settles to the bottom of the can; it must be stirred prior to application:










3. After stirring, filter the topcoat using a Medium filter, directly into a Teflon®-coated aluminum spray cup:










4. Proper application of a finish using HVLP equipment requires careful adjustment of the air flow, and of the material being sprayed. I shoot into Kraft paper I tape to the back panel of the booth:










5. Once I am happy with my adjustments, I start spraying. I am especially careful to fully coat spray all edges, and about 3 inches into the top surface. This ensures proper coverage:










6. As soon as I finish spraying I inspect the surface, to ensure sufficient coverage. The applied spray must be "wet", and applied at a wet film thickness of 2-3 mils (thousands of an inch); if not, the finish will have a somewhat rough feel. On inspection, this first application of the varnish went well (the final appearance will not be shiny, but rather a nice, satin finish):










Actual spraying took about 5 minutes, followed by about 5 minutes to clean up the spray gun.

Enough for today. After cleaning the spray equipment, I headed to the house, and a wonderful dinner - spinach salad and a few crackers!

*Next:* Continue spraying the table top, mill the QSWO boards for the aprons, finish milling the walnut blanks for the legs, glue up the legs. Use the Leigh FMT to cut mortises on the legs, and the tenons on the aprons.

Thanks for following along!

Al


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *Apply varnish to the top, and more on the legs and aprons*
> 
> *From my blog:*
> 
> ...


Al, you are at the fun stage of the project when you can finally see an end in sight and all your hard work is beginning to come toghther. This is looking good.

Out of curiosity does your exhaust fan vent to the outside or are you solely using it to trap air borne particles on the filter?


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *Apply varnish to the top, and more on the legs and aprons*
> 
> *From my blog:*
> 
> ...


Scott,

Thanks!

The exhaust fan is piped to the outside. The filter is present to catch the bulk of the dry coating particles - with HVLP, the coating dries fast, and it is dry by the time it hits the filter. It is one way of protecting the blades on the fan, and to keep it well balanced.

Not shown in these photos: An intake filter between the main shop area, and the finishing room. Since I exhaust to the outside, I must make up the air volume from somewhere, to keep the air pressure in the shop balanced. I simply crack a window in the shop, the air is pulled in, and no negative pressure problems develop. BUT I must remember to crack open a window… ;-) Pulling in air from outside this time of year means cold air, and the furnace works a little harder when I spray.


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## DocK16 (Mar 18, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *Apply varnish to the top, and more on the legs and aprons*
> 
> *From my blog:*
> 
> ...


Love that Zinsser Seal Coat. Makes for a nice even stain and smooth final finish.


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *Apply varnish to the top, and more on the legs and aprons*
> 
> *From my blog:*
> 
> ...


It sure helps to have the SealCoat on white oak, before applying the waterborne top coat.


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## AlNavas (Oct 16, 2007)

*Finish the underside of the top, and get walnut ready for the legs*

*From my blog - Friday's work:*

After applying four layers of the Target Coatings' EM2000wvx topcoat to the underside of the table, it feels like it might be done. However, before turning over the top, to complete the finish on the top side, I will check it again tomorrow morning (Saturday), and decide then.

Today I sanded lightly but thoroughly between each application of the topcoat. It paid off, as the fourth and final application today resulted in a wonderfully smooth surface. In the following photo I am using 600 grit sandpaper between spray sessions, slow and easy, until I know it is ready - it will feel ready for the next layer:










In between spraying the table top, and waiting at least one hour to do the sanding, I started measuring for the table legs. I cut walnut for the legs for this table, and for the stand-up desk I will build later for my client; with the FMT and other "stuff" on the workbench, I must make do with my old folding saw horses :-( :










The day went well; the weather was terrific, as we had lots of sun and 66°F - a wonderful Spring day in the middle of Winter in NW Missouri. With all the blinds in the shop open, and a window cracked to allow make-up air to come into the finishing room, it felt great!

.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

AlNavas said:


> *Finish the underside of the top, and get walnut ready for the legs*
> 
> *From my blog - Friday's work:*
> 
> ...


I am sure you are a lot like me, as the weather warms and I can open up the shop and being working with the garage door open or even moving my tools to the driveway it just seems to get the adrenaline pumping. Woodworking takes on an altogether different perspective.

The sawhorses work but your bench would be more comfortable I am sure. Sounds like you need another bench in there. After all I wouldn't want you to run out of things to do. 

Keep the updates coming. This is going to be a nice table and it is fun to follow it through the construction process.


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