# Riving Knife for Old Ryobi Table Saw?



## GunsOfNavarone (Mar 3, 2016)

Hi everyone,

I picked up an old Ryobi table saw for home use (BT3000). I've got access to SawStops at my local guild, but it's convenient having one at home for some jobs. Anyways, I'm having a hard time finding a Riving Knife for this saw, apparently the part's been discontinued/obsolete. I've tried using the saw without a riving knife and it's dangerous. Anybody know of aftermarket sources? I didn't see anything on eBay, and didn't know if this was a "universal" part. The only option I've seen is the "Shark Guard" which is $175, and more than I'm willing to spend on a saw I picked up for $50.

Thanks!


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## Tennessee (Jul 8, 2011)

I used to own a BT3000. Had all the accessories, but don't remember a riving knife for this saw. I certainly never had one. I cannot remember, is there even a mount underneath?

Either way, with the universal motor, and mostly aluminum construction, although I got almost ten years out of it, in the end it was so much of a odd duck that almost nothing that fits most other table saws would fit the BT3000, so I sold it on CL.

Good luck. The saw was in its heyday about 1999, but in 2017 I don't know if you will find much of anything for it.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Typically a portable can't be fitted with a
1/4" throat plate with a splitter, which is
a good solution.

Any used contractor saw usually has a cutout
for a throat plate 1/4" thick and I have
glued splitters into the throat plates for
such saws.

Micro-jig makes a splitter too, but again, 
you need the cutout for throat plates.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

I just glanced at the parts schematic for the BT3000 at ereplacementparts.com and it doesn't look like it has a true riving knife. It looks like it has a traditional blade guard assembly which acts as a splitter. These are only marginally safer because the can flex, in my opinion anyway, than not using it at all. eReplacmentparts.com says that they have a limited quantity @ $42.56 plus shipping (item F95 diagram page A) .

Another option is to make a zero clearance insert and add a splitter fin to it . Micro Jig sells a splitter with a jig for drilling the holes for about $25 +/-.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> Anyways, I'm having a hard time finding a Riving Knife for this saw, apparently the part's been discontinued/obsolete.


Unless that saw was made sometime around or after 2009, it never had a riving knife, just a regular splitter. I'm pretty sure those were discontinued well before then. If you are paranoid about using it without a splitter (which is all a riving knife is), there are several aftermarket alternatives available. Alternatively, you can just use it as is… which is what most people do 

Cheers,
Brad


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## LittleShaver (Sep 14, 2016)

My BT3000 just died last fall after almost 25 years of hobby use. A zero clearance insert is a snap to make for that saw, just a rectangle 1/2 in thick. Easy enough to add a splitter behind the blade. The blade guard works well as a splitter. The only time I ever had a kickback from that saw was when I didn't have the guard on. Learned my lesson and it only cost me a bruise and a ruined piece of stock.
I always used thin kerf blades and often asked that saw to rip full depth in oak, alas, I asked one too many times.


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## GunsOfNavarone (Mar 3, 2016)

> I just glanced at the parts schematic for the BT3000 at ereplacementparts.com and it doesn t look like it has a true riving knife. It looks like it has a traditional blade guard assembly which acts as a splitter. These are only marginally safer because the can flex, in my opinion anyway, than not using it at all. eReplacmentparts.com says that they have a limited quantity @ $42.56 plus shipping (item F95 diagram page A) .
> 
> Another option is to make a zero clearance insert and add a splitter fin to it . Micro Jig sells a splitter with a jig for drilling the holes for about $25 +/-.
> 
> - Lazyman


Thanks I didn't see that they sold the entire assembly. Part #11 at ereplacementparts shows just the riving knife, which is what I was looking for and couldn't find. Maybe I'll have better luck finding the entire assembly, otherwise I'll check out the micro jig option.

That said - my paranoia is not unfounded. I've already had a piece of walnut get shot back, and I've only used the saw a handful of times. Thanks for the helpful comments everyone!


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

I just checked the manual for that saw... what they are calling a 'riving knife' isn't. It's just a standard splitter, and is part of the blade guard assembly. Hint: Notice in the non-through cut section that it says you have to remove the whole works to perform them. Given that it's just a flat metal piece, it would be pretty easy to make one out of an old saw blade or other type of sheet metal. Not sure of your metal working ability, but it wouldn't be all that difficult using a jig saw, dremel or hack saw and then cleaned up with some files.

Cheers,
Brad


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

If you are making a regular cut there really isn't any difference 'tween a riving knife and a splitter/guard holder. That "splitter" curved up to within 1/8" of the blade, so it served the exact same purpose.

I checked wiki:

A riving knife is a safety device installed on a table saw, circular saw, or radial arm saw used for woodworking. Attached to the saw's arbor, it is fixed relative to the blade and moves with it as blade depth is adjusted.[1]

A splitter is a similar device attached to a trunion on the far side of the saw and fixed in relation to the saw table, which must be removed to make any non-through cuts or dados within the depth of the wood.[1]

So it is indeed a riving knife.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> A riving knife is a safety device installed on a table saw, circular saw, or radial arm saw used for woodworking. Attached to the saw's arbor, it is fixed relative to the blade and *moves with it as blade depth is adjusted*.


That is the question. With a blade guard permanently attached to it, it would not be possible to move up and down with the blade. Does it? I got no dog in this game, and have never used one of those saws, but it looks and smells just like any other pre-2009 blade guard/splitter assembly found on virtually all the little plastic portable screamer saws, and should still be a simple matter to make one 

Cheers,
Brad


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## Anselth (Apr 19, 2012)

> A riving knife is a safety device installed on a table saw, circular saw, or radial arm saw used for woodworking. Attached to the saw's arbor, it is fixed relative to the blade and *moves with it as blade depth is adjusted*.
> 
> That is the question. With a blade guard permanently attached to it, it would not be possible to move up and down with the blade. Does it? I got no dog in this game, and have never used one of those saws, but it looks and smells just like any other pre-2009 blade guard/splitter assembly found on virtually all the little plastic portable screamer saws, and should still be a simple matter to make one
> 
> ...


I have one, and yes, the mechanism goes up and down with the blade. However, it wraps all the way over the top of the blade, so you can't use it for non-through cuts. Note that there are also anti-kickback pawls on either side of the splitter/knife.

Splitter/Knife

Whole review: http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/ryobiBT3100K.htm


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## GunsOfNavarone (Mar 3, 2016)

Lumberjocks has a way of constantly reminding me of how little I know about woodworking, and particularly the equipment. Since I've got 4 kids, including a newborn, I decided that doing anything custom built was not an option. I bit the bullet and bought the assembly from eReplacementParts. My first order from Sears was cancelled, but this one appears to have shipped. Thanks everyone for the advice!


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

> That said - my paranoia is not unfounded. I ve already had a piece of walnut get shot back, and I ve only used the saw a handful of times. Thanks for the helpful comments everyone!
> 
> - GunsOfNavarone


That could also be a symptom of a fence that isn't parallel to the blade so make sure you check that too. (Probably the first thing you should check with any "new" saw. ) If the fence is even slightly closer to the blade near the back than at the front of the blade, it will pinch and kick it right back at you. Not familiar with how to adjust this saw but you need to check first that the blade is parallel to the miter slot and then make sure that the fence is parallel to the miter slot.


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## Anselth (Apr 19, 2012)

This is a good source of info on the BT3000, including articles on shim and belt replacements, and how to align the saw:

http://www.sawdustzone.org/articles/maintenance-repairs


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## GunsOfNavarone (Mar 3, 2016)

Wow, thanks everyone! Information overload - It sounds like I should probably spend some time familiarizing myself with the inner workings of this thing!


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