# 1/2" Router Bit vs 1/4" Router Bit; Which To Use And When?



## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

Hi All,

I recently ordered a Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig which will be arriving today. I have a question about Bits.

Freud has a 1/2", 14 degree, 1/4" shank, P/N 22-104. They also have a 1/2", 14 degree, 1/2" shank, P/N 22-112.

Other than the size of the shank, what is the difference between the two? Is it an application issue? I.e., drawers versus small boxes?

When would you choose a 1/4" Bit over a 1/2" Bit and vice-versa? I plan for now to be making boxes no larger than 6" x 6" with a Bosch 1617EV Router.

As always, many thanks.

Lyman


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I'm not familiar with the PC jig, but most of them require you to use bushings and the 1/2" shank bit make not work in all cases. That said, I'll always use a larger shank bit versus a smaller one when I have a choice. I've bought some with 3/8" shanks (I have 3/8" collets for 2 brands of routers) just to avoid the smaller shanks.


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## therealSteveN (Oct 29, 2016)

I also stay away from 1/4" shanks if possible. The only time I will use them is if the application begs for use of a small hand held trim router, which are limited to 1/4" shanks. The 1/2" shanks have been available for industrial use for some time, but for hobbiest use and hand held routers are still not main stream. Evidenced by what you can run out and buy at the Big Box stores. As they become more the "norm" I expect even trimmers will allow for 1/2" shanks, or at least 8mm (appx 5/16) or 3/8"

Leigh is fond of the 8mm, otherwise in the US they aren't real heavily used.

I have a PC 4212, and it came with bits. Not sure, but I'd get the jig, and see what they gave you.


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

Many thanks to both of you for your input! The Porter-Cable 4216 arrived today and came with both 1/4 and 1/2".

Again, thank you very much!

Best,

Lyman


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

Some people have snapped 1/4 bits. and a lot of larger cabinet door, panel bits , etc only come in 1/2". i've never had that problem but i tend to buy decent quality and don't go ape on my tools. that said, i tend to buy 1/2" shank bits when possible that way i don't have to change the collet out(or find the other one) . as i tend to keep my router in the table for moulding, cabinet doors.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Some DTs with narrow pins don't have the clearance for the 1/2" shank to pass through when cutting, otherwise unless you need a small diameter cutter or on a budget, 1/2" is the way to go.


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

> Some DTs with narrow pins don t have the clearance for the 1/2" shank to pass through when cutting, otherwise unless you need a small diameter cutter or on a budget, 1/2" is the way to go.
> 
> - splintergroup


Agreed. From 2004 through 2008 I had an extensive array of bits and virtually all of them were 1/2". Then Life got in the way and everything had to be sold so given the time span between 2008 and now I really am playing catch up on a lot of this.

Thank you for taking the time to respond, I do appreciate it very much.

Best,

Lyman


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

+1 with the above. I have both 1/4" and 1/2" shaft bits. Never have a problem with 1/4" shafts yet. If the cutting portion of the bit is the same size, the cut is the same. The difference really is in the shafts' strength. Routing the denser woods (such as hickory) the shaft could possibly bend with the 1/4" vs. 1/2" if taking too big of a cut, or when heating up the bit. The advantage to the 1/4" bit, is that it will also fit the 'trim routers'.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> Many thanks to both of you for your input! The Porter-Cable 4216 arrived today and came with both 1/4 and 1/2".
> 
> - LGLDSR73


It's not an either/or proposition. The reason you got bits with both 1/4" and 1/2" shanks is because the 4216 has templates for regular dovetails, and small dovetails. The 1/2" bits are sized for the large template, and the 1/4" for the small one. They are not interchangeable.

If you wish, both Whiteside and Freud make bits with 1/4" shanks that are compatible with the larger template. You will have to purchase them separately. Just match the specs of the ones you have-7º 17/32 inch dovetail and 13/32" for the straight bit.

Also, ignore the nonsense above regarding 1/4" shanks. For this application they will work just fine.


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## Jimarco (May 15, 2015)

Personal preference is 1/2" for strength/safety concerns. As you said Lyman the bits come with the jig. I have replaced the bits with PC bits and an off brand and all worked fine.

You may want to consider adding 2 items for your PC 42 jig, a second router to save time and aggravation changing bits and set up also consider Leigh's VRS1200 Vacuum & Router Support for 4200 Series Porter-Cable Dovetail Jigs. It saves you from a chest and floor full of shavings plus gives the router support. Without the added support it's easy to nick the template with the bit by having to remove the router after the cut… don't ask


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

SMP, Splintergroup, WoodenDreams,

Hadn't really considered the possibility of the 1/4" Bits snapping but I see your valid points - all good. Thanks for the heads up on that.

Always learn something here. Thanks guys.

Best,

Lyman


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

1/2" is 4x stronger than 1/4". I push lots of hard hardwoods (jatoba, ipe, wenge, etc.) so carbide is the order of the day. Heat is the enemy of cutters. In addition to being 4x stronger, 1/2" bits also dissipate 4x the heat, not to mention the general heat mass increase of the bigger cutter and mount.

I use 1/4" bits with a 1/8" rounder in my trim router. The intermediate router is the PC plunger for template routing. Even the 1/4" shank bits are all carbide.

I don't resharpen, I replace. Most of my patterns get occasional use, some get used to death. I buy as needed, no "collections", but I do buy matched panel/rail/stile sets. I've prolly' got well over a grand in bits plus that twice again in the wing, mount, inlay and pattern accessories.

The router, not the saw, is the most expensive tool in the shop. The saw gets its annual $75 blade. The router gets new patterns all the time. Even a lousy 1/4" shank solid carbide 1/8" inlay bit is $20. I have to inventory spares so a snapped bit doesn't stop a project.


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

> Many thanks to both of you for your input! The Porter-Cable 4216 arrived today and came with both 1/4 and 1/2".
> 
> - LGLDSR73
> 
> ...


Thanks Rich." Just match the specs of the ones you have-7º 17/32 inch dovetail and 13/32" for the straight bit." As I mentioned above the 4216 came with a 1/2", 1/2" shank, *7 Degree* and I just ordered a Freud 1/2" (Dia.) Dovetail Bit with 1/2" Shank (22-112) *14 Degree*. This will work in the half-blind template, correct?

The bit I ordered is here

Many thanks,

Lyman


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

> 1/2" is 4x stronger than 1/4". I push lots of hard hardwoods (jatoba, ipe, wenge, etc.) so carbide is the order of the day. Heat is the enemy of cutters. In addition to being 4x stronger, 1/2" bits also dissipate 4x the heat, not to mention the general heat mass increase of the bigger cutter and mount.
> 
> I use 1/4" bits with a 1/8" rounder in my trim router. The intermediate router is the PC plunger for template routing. Even the 1/4" shank bits are all carbide.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the valuable input! I did not know that 1/2" bits also dissipate 4x the heat as well as being 4X stronger. Much appreciated!

Best,

Lyman


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

A cutter with geometry the same in a 1/2" shaft bit as a 1/4" shaft bit will not dissipate 4 times the heat. Heat dissipation is a function of surface area and you simply don't have 4× the surface area just because the shaft is double the diameter. You will have greater ability to absorb heat due to a greater thermal mass and the increased surface area of the shaft will dissipate more heat but the cutter, where the heat is being generated, will not.

The three main reasons for a 1/4" shaft bit are 1) cheaper 2) fits in smaller bushings 3) fits in trim routers.
The benefit of a 1/2" shaft is greater strength and a teeny tiny bit more heat dissipation.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> I just ordered a Freud 1/2" (Dia.) Dovetail Bit with 1/2" Shank (22-112) *14 Degree*. This will work in the half-blind template, correct?
> 
> - LGLDSR73


No, I'm afraid that won't work with the PC jig. Your only choice is the 7º 17/32" bit for the large template.

Many other jigs, like the Leigh, use the 1/2" XXº bits, and 14º is.a common one. With the Leigh jig, you use different bits for half blinds, depending on the board thickness. Because they vary in length, but all have a 1/2" diameter cut at the tip, the angle varies, hence the XXº above.


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

> 1/2" is 4x stronger than 1/4". I push lots of hard hardwoods (jatoba, ipe, wenge, etc.) so carbide is the order of the day. Heat is the enemy of cutters. In addition to being 4x stronger, 1/2" bits also dissipate 4x the heat, not to mention the general heat mass increase of the bigger cutter and mount.
> 
> I use 1/4" bits with a 1/8" rounder in my trim router. The intermediate router is the PC plunger for template routing. Even the 1/4" shank bits are all carbide.
> 
> ...





> I just ordered a Freud 1/2" (Dia.) Dovetail Bit with 1/2" Shank (22-112) *14 Degree*. This will work in the half-blind template, correct?
> 
> - LGLDSR73
> 
> ...


Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. That'll 
be going back and I will order the same size as now but will be Freud branded. Thanks Rich!

Lyman


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*bigblockyeti:*
Doubling the diameter *DOES* 4x the cross section area of the shaft. Its called "square law". 4x the area = 4x the strength AND 4x the heat dissipation. I've done the math.

The increased thermal mass dissipates the heat faster for a given thermal resistance, and reduces the edge temp.


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

> I just ordered a Freud 1/2" (Dia.) Dovetail Bit with 1/2" Shank (22-112) *14 Degree*. This will work in the half-blind template, correct?
> 
> - LGLDSR73
> Hi Rich,
> ...


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

> Doubling the diameter *DOES* 4x the cross section area of the shaft. Its called "square law". 4x the area = 4x the strength AND 4x the heat dissipation. I ve done the math.
> 
> - Madmark2


For starters, this discussion is not at all helpful for Lyman. But since you've chosen to argue, I'll let you know that your analysis is grossly oversimplified. Are you suggesting that the shaft is the sole point of heat transfer? What about that cutterhead that's effectively a heat sink with a fan?

So, for 4X the shaft surface area to cool the bit 4X faster, 100% of the heat dissipation would have to be through the shaft. Anyone would understand that that's not the case.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

> *bigblockyeti:*
> Doubling the diameter *DOES* 4x the cross section area of the shaft. Its called "square law". 4x the area = 4x the strength AND 4x the heat dissipation. I ve done the math.
> 
> The increased thermal mass dissipates the heat faster for a given thermal resistance, and reduces the edge temp.
> ...


Yes, you've done the math, yes you're still wrong, cross sectional area is not the same as surface area (hint: how heat is dissipated). Double the diameter of the shaft will yield a 4× stronger *shaft only.* Since a dovetail bit will break where the shaft meets the cutter and that area is not 1/2", your 4× strength statement falls apart.


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## Tony_S (Dec 16, 2009)

Heat dissipation/Thermal mass isn't a consideration at all in regard's to either designing, or choosing a router bit. Full stop. Anyone who tells you otherwise is full of ********************. Full stop.
Even to entertain the idea, lets take into consideration that by changing shaft sizes up or down, all you're doing is trading collet mass for shaft mass. The exterior geometry of the collet assembly doesn't change. The only real difference is the small amount of exposed shaft from the collet to the top of the bit. The difference in mass between the two scenarios would be minuscule to the point of being nearly immeasurable.
Lets go down this road….If heat ever proves to be any type of issue or concern, it has nothing to do with the shaft size of a router bit. Something is wrong with your setup. 
Could be a poor quality bit, dull bit, wrong rpm's, wrong feedrate, etc.
A sharp, quality bit in a good setup with proper parameters should never get more than slightly warm to the touch.


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

Rich, Bigblockyeti:

Thank you very much for your clear, concise and well thought out answers which makes perfect sense.

Thanks again,

Lyman


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

> Heat dissipation/Thermal mass isn t a consideration at all in regard s to either designing, or choosing a router bit. Full stop. Anyone who tells you otherwise is full of ********************. Full stop.
> Even to entertain the idea, lets take into consideration that by changing shaft sizes up or down, all you re doing is trading collet mass for shaft mass. The exterior geometry of the collet assembly doesn t change. The only real difference is the small amount of exposed shaft from the collet to the top of the bit. The difference in mass between the two scenarios would be minuscule to the point of being nearly immeasurable.
> Lets go down this road….If heat ever proves to be any type of issue or concern, it has nothing to do with the shaft size of a router bit. Something is wrong with your setup.
> Could be a poor quality bit, dull bit, wrong rpm s, wrong feedrate, etc.
> ...


I did the math, turns out that the heat travels through the center of the shaft and exits out the bottom.
That's why you hold the bit up 1/8" it gives the heat somewhere to go.










I never was good at math though….


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## EdWeber (Jun 17, 2021)

In big general terms.
1/2" bits, stronger less vibration
8mm bits, Leigh Jigs primarily
1/4" bits, lighter smaller routers and guide bushing use

Don't over complicate things too much

Also, 2 similar bits, one 1/4", one 1/2" 
The 1/2" bit has a greater ability to absorb heat due to the added mass of the shaft.
The 1/4" bit has an increased ability to dissipate heat quicker due to it's lesser mass relative to surface area

https://www.wired.com/story/why-big-stuff-cools-off-slower-than-small-stuff/


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

Geeze…all I wanted to know was which size shank I should use for making small boxes, LOL.

Thanks to everyone!

Best,
Lyman


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## Woodnmetal (Jul 24, 2021)

Sorry guys, I have to agree with Rich, bigblockyeti and Tony_S and possibly many others here,

Lyman, I hope this helps!

First off, I do not own a router as of yet, I will be ordering 1 in the coming week or 2. Probably the Canadian Tire Mastercraft maximum plunge/fixed Router since this is just a hobby for my wife and I. 
I would really like 1 with a soft start coupled with variable speed, however that would be another discussion.

As Tony mentioned above, the cutter shank diameter has nothing to do with heat dissipation. It is for strength only. 
If you are generating too much heat with any cutter, its is either dull, or the RPM is too high for the cut you are trying to perform, so Axial depth of cut and radial depth of cut.. Now, having said that, It could even be that your tool has too much stick-out from the work piece with your chosen speeds and feeds. 
In this case , you need to decide on which diameter shank is going to give you the optimum strength, clearance and wood chip removal adjusting your speed and feed accordingly.

Seriously, You could purchase the best router bit ( Freud I believe ) and have heat dissipation problems from the get go if the speeds, feeds , depth of cut and side step are not calculated properly. Especially in hard woods.

No matter if your using a CNC or cutting manually, these principles remain the same. Add the additional thoughts of Tool stick out, coated or uncoated cutters, the grade of carbide/coating in your cutter choice. Cheap cutters vs premium cutters.

1) You need to calculate the RPM for the diameter of cutter you choose for the application, so RPM= SFM X 3.82 / diameter of the tool . SFM is surface feet per minute.

2) Calculate your feed rate… Feed Rate = RPM * Chip Load * Number of cutting edges (in/mm per minute) where PI remains the constant 3.14

3) Depth of Cut = 1.5 X Tool Diameter you choose.

4) For Radial Depth of Cut use 0.25 X Tool diameter.

5) Either lower/ increase your speeds and feeds depending on tool stick out, sharpness of the tool , quality of the tool, and shank diameter.

Im an old guy, so hopefully I have typed out the basics of getting a tool to perform at its best.
Once you have nailed down which cutter you choose to perform the task at hand, try calculating/testing the above.

Now, since I haven't mastered the way to post images or pictures here yet … were working on it! 
Maybe a member here can find/post an online calculator here, maybe Freud would have something online. 
You will soon figure out, the shank diameter has nothing to do with heat dissipation.

Gary & Christine.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

With the dovetail jig you need to use certain bits (or bit combinations for through dovetails). That will be the first priority choosing bits for the jig. If the height of the router bit isn't right, you won't get the look you're going for.

I'll choose 1/2 shank when I have the choice. I recently bought a 3/8" downcut spiral bit for a dado jig. Since I don't have a 3/8" collet, a 1/2" shank was the natural choice.

I use a lot of 1/4" spiral bits w/ guide bushing to hog out openings as an initial roughing pass. Then I'll come back with a second router and flush cut to a template. In that instance the 1/4" bit works as an advantage because I'm using the router like a jigsaw.

Overall I have about 50/50 quarter and half inch shank bits. I buy 1/2" whenever possible.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Wow, this escalated quickly…lol. Talk about information overload.


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## Woodnmetal (Jul 24, 2021)

Well, information overload can be useful at times lol. Especially if your consumables are consistently rising, and the quality of work isn't getting much better haha. 
I've had some guys in my shop that still feel the need to pull out a 5lb baby sledge hammer using it on the drift to get the cutter/drill out my maunal bridgeport mills and radial drill press. 
Jus' sayin.


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## EdWeber (Jun 17, 2021)

Kind of a fine line between information overload and accurately answering what "seems" to be a simple question.
As with most woodworking operations, you can make it as easy or as complicated as you want.
A little common sense goes a long way, it's unfortunately not all that common.


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## Woodnmetal (Jul 24, 2021)

What seems to be a simple question to some, it can be a loaded question to others.

Something as simple as using a #7 drill combined with a 1/4-20 machine tap in wood gets some fired up. All though any 3 flute tap is optimum some think you need 3 flute wood taps to perform and higher percentage thread engagement. Even thou the chuck is running say .002 out at the chuck and .010 at the tip of the drill stuck out 3" long. Change the set-up, then you have a whole new perspective on things.

Does it all boil down to equipment, tool selection, speed, feed, and set-up ? Hmmm, I dunno…

Nobody is trying to re-inventing the wheel here. Basically, knowledge is key to making money with success or lowering the profit margins in anything we do. 
If the OP is just in this for a hobby, then the trips to the big box stores or amazon may require more hours of overtime to be able to continue to replace consumables, therefore less time for the hobby.

To some, well, this " seems simple" 
Just to point out your simplicity,
The 1/2" bit has a greater ability to absorb heat due to the added mass of the shaft.
The 1/4" bit has an increased ability to dissipate heat quicker due to it's lesser mass relative to surface area.

Also, 2 similar bits, one 1/4", one 1/2"

NUFF SAID,
Good luck!


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## EdWeber (Jun 17, 2021)

When I first learned it, it was simple to me.
Of course I didn't have the extra voices of the internet to "help" me understand.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

*Woodnmetal:*
Interesting you say that about #7 & 1/4-20. I just built a strong box for a client with two dozen 1-1/4" SS allen head cap screws countersunk & epoxied into 5/4 jatoba. The "walnut plugs" are JB Weld over the heads. There are also hidden 1" x 1/4" soft steel bars in the sides.

Jatoba holds 1/4-20 threads like soft cast iron.









Jatoba and steel strong box.

I snapped both a #6-32 tap and pilot drill building it.


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

> Sorry guys, I have to agree with Rich, bigblockyeti and Tony_S and possibly many others here,
> 
> Lyman, I hope this helps!
> 
> ...


Thank you Gary and Christine, very much appreciated! I appreciate the detailed reply!

Best,

Lyman


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

I want to thank each and every person here who took the time to address this issue, you have no idea how much it helps. The input has been excellent and I thank you all. Time for the most part is a precious commodity and I appreciate you spending some of yours on my question.

All the best,

Lyman


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## Tony_S (Dec 16, 2009)

> Heat dissipation/Thermal mass isn t a consideration at all in regard s to either designing, or choosing a router bit. Full stop. Anyone who tells you otherwise is full of ********************. Full stop.
> Even to entertain the idea, lets take into consideration that by changing shaft sizes up or down, all you re doing is trading collet mass for shaft mass. The exterior geometry of the collet assembly doesn t change. The only real difference is the small amount of exposed shaft from the collet to the top of the bit. The difference in mass between the two scenarios would be minuscule to the point of being nearly immeasurable.
> Lets go down this road….If heat ever proves to be any type of issue or concern, it has nothing to do with the shaft size of a router bit. Something is wrong with your setup.
> Could be a poor quality bit, dull bit, wrong rpm s, wrong feedrate, etc.
> ...


It seems you've over torqued the collet to 26 elbow pounds(should only be 14)and made the bit bulge…now you've cracked the glue stuff that they glue the sharp stuff on with! Heat doesn't matter because the bit is going to detonate when you turn it on….Can I have your tools?


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## Tony_S (Dec 16, 2009)

> Wow, this escalated quickly…lol. Talk about information overload.
> 
> - Rich


Yep, but I think you'd agree…good information overload is better than misleading, useless drivel.


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

Anyone want to talk about the Wall? I'll start:

"Fixed fortifications are a monument to the stupidity of Man. If Oceans and Mountains can be overcome, anything built by Man can be overcome.". - General George S. Patton, Jr.

Sorry, couldn't resist. :


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## EdWeber (Jun 17, 2021)

> Wow, this escalated quickly…lol. Talk about information overload.
> 
> - Rich
> 
> ...


Yes, but in the end, they can end up having the same effect when someone turns a deaf ear to it.
Don't over complicate the simple stuff and don't over simplify the complicated stuff.


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## Tony_S (Dec 16, 2009)

> Yes, but in the end, they can end up having the same effect when someone turns a deaf ear to it.


That pretty much goes without saying. 
Definitely not the case here though. The OP has been very receptive(and patient) to all the information given in this thread.



> Don t over complicate the simple stuff and don t over simplify the complicated stuff.
> - Ed Weber


I've taught a lot of people woodworking, millwork, tooling, etc. I'll choose to over answer a question every time if I have the opportunity.


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## JaredCGreene (Mar 4, 2019)

I always do my best to stay away from 1/4" shanks. 1/2" are only slightly more expensive and far safer in my opinion.


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

> I always do my best to stay away from 1/4" shanks. 1/2" are only slightly more expensive and far safer in my opinion.
> 
> - JaredCGreene


Thanks Jared, agreed.
Best,
Lyman


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## EdWeber (Jun 17, 2021)

> Yes, but in the end, they can end up having the same effect when someone turns a deaf ear to it.
> 
> That pretty much goes without saying.
> Definitely not the case here though. The OP has been very receptive(and patient) to all the information given in this thread.
> ...





> Yes, but in the end, they can end up having the same effect when someone turns a deaf ear to it.
> 
> That pretty much goes without saying.
> Definitely not the case here though. The OP has been very receptive(and patient) to all the information given in this thread.
> ...


The OP has been a good sport and very polite IMO even with the topic straying off-course.


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## Woodnmetal (Jul 24, 2021)

> I want to thank each and every person here who took the time to address this issue, you have no idea how much it helps. The input has been excellent and I thank you all. Time for the most part is a precious commodity and I appreciate you spending some of yours on my question.
> 
> All the best,
> 
> ...


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## RyanGi (Jan 13, 2021)

I think a lot of it has to do with the profile you're cutting, the density and continuity of the wood you're cutting, and the power the router is supplying. I've had great success using 1/4" bits for many years, but I'm not hogging out with huge profiling bits or trying to use it as a shaper. That being said, I just replaced my older Porter Cable (that would only take 1/4" bits) with a new router that accepts both…and has a higher HP rating. Of course torque plays into it when you reduce speed on a variable speed router…so there's another thing to look at. I can't say I've ever snapped a 1/4" bit in my table router, but then I've got a hobby shop not a production shop and I don't push it super hard. FWIW, I only replaced the router because it's was old enough and the bearings were going out. It was time. And the upgrade to a 1/2" capable machine was just for cushion…. but again, I'm not pushing it as hard as I could.


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## LGLDSR73 (Jul 24, 2013)

> I want to thank each and every person here who took the time to address this issue, you have no idea how much it helps. The input has been excellent and I thank you all. Time for the most part is a precious commodity and I appreciate you spending some of yours on my question.
> 
> All the best,
> 
> ...


Gary & Christine,

Many thanks for the input on the Carbide, greatly appreciated! My personality…it takes allot to get to me and after forty years in IT as a Network Administrator as well as providing support to everyone from a rank and file employee to a $59M/yr CEO and an entire Board of Directors I've seen I think every personality under the sun.

Everyone has an opinion and thank God for that. God save me from the person that has all the answers as well as the College kid whose been handed to me who and who walks in with his with his eighty pounds of Microsoft and Unix books that aren't 'Real World'. "Ditch the books…you're in the real World now. Your four years of recess at Brown University are over.". Yes, I would actually tell them that because it was the truth. The books do not tell you how to deal with a SVP throwing a $4,000 laptop across the room like a Frisbee, LOL. Yep, been there. Sorry, flew off on a tangent….

I'm not shy, I have no hesitation in asking questions. If you don't ask, you don't learn. What I had no idea is that my question would spawn forty-five replies and delve into thermodynamics but that's fine. Learned a few things there as well.

I'm retired now and decided to get back into woodworking after being away from it for many many years. What bothers me is how much I've forgotten, staggering.

Again, thank you very much for your time and sharing your wisdom, it really is very much appreciated!

All the best,

Lyman


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