# New Life for a Columbian Woodworking Vise



## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

*Columbian Woodworking Vise Find*





































I just got back from a woodworking tool estate sale. There were many good buys. I would of purchase a lot more but ran out of money. I spotted this woodworking vise and noticed that it is a quick release. I already got an old vice for the workbench that I am currently building, but it is not a quick release. I thought I would give it a go. I am taking a chance in buying a vise that wouldn't turn. For $25.00, I don't think it is much of a gamble. 
Here's what I have found so far:


It is a little rusty.
Something is keeping the screw from tuning.
It is a woodworking vise, from "The Columbian Vise MFG Co Cleveland Ohio".
You can still see the faded greenish gray color paint on the vise.
The handle is missing.
The screw to handle length is about 19", jaw width is 7" and the jaw depth is 4".
There is some marking toward the back that I can't read clearly at this time. I believe something "10". Perhaps the jaws have a 10 inch opening.

The vise basically look the same as the one that I already have. Maybe the one I already got is a bit older. I thought perhaps I could "borrow" parts but even though they look the same, I doubt the parts are the same. We shall see. Hopefully, I wouldn't need any parts.

Here is my plan on cleaning this new old vise:


Unfreeze the screw to see it move. Hopefully, all goes well. No sense of restoring the vise if it won't move.
Remove the rust following the advices posted here on LJ. I will most likely use the electrolysis method provided I have the proper container. We'll see how it goes.
Paint the appropriate surface.
Lubricate the moving parts.
If timing is right, gather the hardware and mount it on my new workbench.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

hhhopks said:


> *Columbian Woodworking Vise Find*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I look forward to seeing (hint; pictures), your restoration of this vise! Keep posting your progress.


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

hhhopks said:


> *Columbian Woodworking Vise Find*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It's my first blog. Just click too soon. Anyway the pics are up.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

hhhopks said:


> *Columbian Woodworking Vise Find*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


awesome! Thanks for the picks.

When you think about it, a vise is pretty simple machine. Removing the rust &/or lubing with penetrating oil, should free up the movement.

Good luck, can't wait to see it on your bench, doing it's thing!


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

*Will it turn?*

So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.









As founded, vise in the fully opened position.

I got the vise positioned (upside down), as viewed from the underside of the workbench. The operation of the vise is pretty simple. Right? You turn the handle and the screw turns. In this vise there is a handle hub in the front. The front jaw moves in and out along with the screw. The back jaw and assembly part is supposed to be anchor to the bench so it is stationary.

You can clearly see that there is a hub cover of some sort toward the back. It has two big screws which I removed to see what's in it. Maybe something in there is keeping the screw from moving. After removal of this cover, it is not apparent what keeps the screw from moving. Now, it is more obvious to me how this quick release works. There is a spring loaded shoe about 1/3 round x 3 inches long with threads to engage the screw. When the groove portion of the screw is at that position, there is no contact. The screw will slide right over shoe. The hub that was removed has no threads on the inside. Anyway, I attempted to turn the screw but it will not move.



















Old mechanical part not moving; I dealt with this problem before. A former associate who is a tool & die machinist have suggested WD40 (penetrating oil/lubricant) is the best starting point. After spraying the screws along the mating area, I simply took a break.



















After about 15 minutes, I returned and tried to move the screw. It won't move! A little discouraged, I decided to use a dowel to give it a little more leverage. I was turning it by hand. I placed a dowel through the handle hub. Yes, I could feel the screw gives. I proceed to rock the handle back & forth a few more times. I stop and give it another good Wd40 spray. Let it sit for few more minutes. I resume the rocking motion. The screw travels more and more after each rocking cycle.

Will it slide? The groove of the screw has to face up (relative to the actual workbench mounting position). Keep in mind that I have never used a quick release vise before. Yes, I could feel it move. Surprisingly, I could move it quite easily. The vise will slide back & forth. I went back in turning the screw. Oops, is it stuck again? After few minute of messing with the screw, is when I learned, that a quick release vise only turns 315 deg. I did notice that the front face of the vise has stops to limit the handle travel. It never sank in until now. Anyway 315 deg turn it is. I proceed with turning the screw back & forth for each of the screw section to check movement. I spray WD40 as I go. When the front jaw is fully extended, the opening between jaws is 10-1/4 inches. There appears to be nothing wrong with this vise.  Well OK, it is missing a handle.









The vise in the fully closed position.

I do have concerns taking the vice apart. They are:


The screw has a pin (cotta pin?) at the end to keep the end plate from coming off. OK, it's no big deal. It has rust. It probably easier to just replace it.
The front wise has a nut to hold each guide rod in place. So that should come out easily.
This is the part which concerns me the most. The pin at the handle hub. This must be removed for the screw to come off the vise. Once this is removed, the pin will need to be replaced. I am unfamiliar with where to get a replacement pin. I believe you use a ball pein hammer to shape the new pin. Right? I could definitely use some expert advice on this. I just not much of a metal guy. If I remove this, I will have to replace it will a new one. Where can you find a replacement?

Now this vise is supposed to be a tool. Unlike a plane or chisel where we spent a lot time to admire it, the vise doesn't have to have bunch of shiny surface and subject to close inspection. However, it is mechanical equipment that has moving parts. I can't deform the components where it will affect the functionality. 
There are already bunch of different methods mentioned here in LJ on rust removal. For the most part, they all work. Perhaps some methods are better than others. The method that I am familiar with is electrolysis. However, I am interested in the lease amount of work, cost effective and to leave the vise in an acceptable condition. .

I am debating how far I should go in cleaning this vise. Overall rust is not as bad as I thought. I don't think there is any serious pitting. It actually looks pretty decent after the WD40 soaking. Maybe some more WD40 and gentle brushing with a wire brush and scotch brite will do a job. I'll have to think it over. What would you recommend?


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

hhhopks said:


> *Will it turn?*
> 
> So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
> I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.
> ...


Find someone who has a 5 gallon bucket of Evap-o-rust. Soak it over night and it will come out like new. should free up everything.


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## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

hhhopks said:


> *Will it turn?*
> 
> So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
> I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.
> ...


Disassemble, remove rust from guide rods and threads of screw. Wipe down with your favorite "anti-rust" compound. Reassemble and mount to bench. Don't forget to put new hardwood pads between the cast jaws.


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

hhhopks said:


> *Will it turn?*
> 
> So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
> I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.
> ...


You mention; 3.This is the part which concerns me the most. The pin at the handle hub.

I can't tell from the photos but here is a link to spring pins, roll pins& split pins.

I hope this helps. I have a few vises to rehab myself, I wish you luck!


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## tsangell (Jan 10, 2011)

hhhopks said:


> *Will it turn?*
> 
> So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
> I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.
> ...


mcmaster.com won't let you down.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#roll-pins/=gdgzk0


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

hhhopks said:


> *Will it turn?*
> 
> So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
> I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.
> ...


Here the pin at the handle hub that I am talking about. It is at the middle of the photo. The pin goes through the Hub and come out the other end.










The pin must be removed to take the vise apart. You could grind if off but how do you replace it?


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

hhhopks said:


> *Will it turn?*
> 
> So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
> I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.
> ...


Old thread I know, but I have a ??. I just picked one of these up and the hub where the handle is was cast with a large nub on it and there is a nub also cast on the jaw. Effectively I can only turn the handle 180 degrees before these meet. They are obviously original to the vise. How do I turn the handle continuously around?


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

hhhopks said:


> *Will it turn?*
> 
> So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
> I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.
> ...


Is there a groove on the the threaded shaft?
It appears that you have a qucik release vise. 
If you look at the 5th photo from top. The one with the WD40, you can see the groove.
If you go to blog series that followed, you will see better photos of it.
My vise can only turn about 270 deg. It is part of the design. When the screw is all the way counter clockwise, you are in the quickrelease position. I belive that sometime you may have to shim your work piece for the vise to hold properly (I have not installed my vise yet).


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

hhhopks said:


> *Will it turn?*
> 
> So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
> I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.
> ...


Thanks. Mine does have the groove in the threads and when positioned correctly it works like it's supposed to. But if you never knew that you will go batty trying to figure it out. It was a $20 estate sale find so I'm happy.

Oh, and the handle on mine and all the pics Google shows me is just a length of pipe with threaded caps on each end.


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## BullHammer (Jun 15, 2015)

hhhopks said:


> *Will it turn?*
> 
> So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.
> I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don't seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describing the particular parts of the vise. Evidently, there isn't as much focus on woodworking vises verses planes, chisels, and other hand tools. Any links or assistance will be appreciated.
> ...





> Disassemble, remove rust from guide rods and threads of screw. Wipe down with your favorite "anti-rust" compound. Reassemble and mount to bench. Don t forget to put new hardwood pads between the cast jaws.
> 
> - ksSlim


-ksSlim…what "anti-rust" compound would you recommend? I just bought this same vise ($10) and it was completely rusted. I soaked it in vinegar and wiped it clean. Now i need to know what to do with the bare metal. I've read cold blue, boiled linseed, paste wax, paint or a combination of them. Any thoughts?

-Tony


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

*Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning*

This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.

*Disassembly:*
I would like to take the vise apart, however it looks like I have to take a compromise. I decided to disassemble the vise as much possible. Once the pin at the rear of the vise was tapped out, I was able to tap the rear guide plate out.



















Once that is out, the back jaw assembly slides out easily. Now you could clearly see the threaded shoe. I also noticed there is a spring on the front end of the shoe. Surprisingly it was a simple nail that was used as a guide for the spring to hold everything in place.




























Since I can't readily replace the pin on the hub of handle, the main screw and handle of the hub portion were left intact to the front jaw assembly.










I tried loosening the nuts of the guide rods. Unfortunately the entire rod turns as well. I was tempted to put a channel lock on the guide rod, but decided that I don't want to take a chance of damaging it. The guide rods were left attached with front jaw assembly same as the main screw. I elected not to do the spring and nail as I didn't see any rust on it.

I didn't make any more effort in disassembly beyond this point.









*Rust Removal:*

I have chosen electrolysis as my method of removing rust. There are plenty of posts on this topic, so I won't repeat it here. The materials that I gather included:


12 Vdc charger with leads.
Plastic concrete mixing tub (holds about 9 gallon & will fit a size 8 plane in it).
Miscellaneous strained copper wires (#10 to #16 awg).
Measuring spoon.
Washing soda.

I already have these materials so I didn't have to spend anything. The wires that I have were previously used on other rust removal projects. Some has little clamps on them. I could only use it on the shoe, pin, and the rear guide plate. For the rest of the vise components, I simply tightly wrap bare wires around the metal (not the best method but seems to be adequate). The vise components are hooked up to the negative lead while the sacrificial metal (short piece of rebar) is hook up to the positive lead of the charger (off). Oh yea, you really should do this in a well-ventilated area. The process generates hydrogen gas.

Not certain of the capacity of my charger and with limited wires, I elected to do task in several batches. I started with the front jaw assembly with the guide rods and main screw. I also included the shoe in the first batch. I got everything wire up and placed in the tub before adding the water. Because of the height of the front jaw, I have to fill it all the way up. The top portion of the jaw is sticking out just a bit, so I carefully top it off without to avoid clean up the mess. Next, I sprinkled the washing soda (little over 1 tea spoon per gallon) over the tub. It was definitely not a scientific measurement. Water was steered to ensure the washing soda dissolves, and turn power on for the charger. A minute or so I can see little bubbles rising from the metal parts.



















I really don't have a method to gauge how much time is needed. I would think it is a combination of voltage, current, metal surface area, concentration of the electrolyte, and the surface area of the sacrificial metal. It is too complicated for me. I did notice that the rate of bubble rising is fairly frequent even after 12 hours, so I elected to wait it out. After the rising bubbles have subsided the components were removed and wire brushed to remove the black looking residue. Scrub, scrub, scrub, scrub….. rinse, rinse,rinse….. Now the screw was a challenge. I scrub the screw along the spiral of the threads. More scrub/rinse/scrub/rinse……….

I used a heat gun to dry the front jaw with the threaded and guide rods. You can clearly see a lite rust forming as the parts are being dry! I have seen this before when cleaning planes. After drying it I spray the entire surface with WD40. I use scotchbrite to scrub additional surface that seems to be more stubborn. I found a few burs on the vise and use a file gently filed it away. Overall it went pretty well. The threaded rod and guide rods shine quite well.

Basically I repeated the process for the remaining batches. It was really uneventful.Here are what the components look like after it has been cleaned.









I am concern about the burr marks on the main screw. It appears to be from the shoe. There is really no way of removing it. Is it part of the flaw in the design of this quick release vise? We'll have to wait on how it may impact on the functionality.


















Overall, it looked pretty good.

I'll need to start thinking about the paint job. The original paint (now look "Gray") actually doesn't look bad. There are no flakes or chips. However, I think a fresh coat of paint would be good. Especially for the back jaw and the rear guide plate.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

hhhopks said:


> *Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning*
> 
> This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.
> 
> ...


What a great new life for this vice


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

hhhopks said:


> *Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning*
> 
> This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.
> 
> ...


If you are collecting these I saw one on Tulsa, Ok CL tonight. It looks to be in slightly better shape than yours when you started. Yours is looking very shiney now. That looks like a LOT of effort. Are these valuable when restored?


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## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

hhhopks said:


> *Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning*
> 
> This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.
> 
> ...


Those parts came out looking good. I've never tried electrolysis, something I need to look into. I have irons from a wooden plane that need TLC. Thanks for showing/explaining the process.

Looking forward to more progress & to see it in action!!!


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

hhhopks said:


> *Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning*
> 
> This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.
> 
> ...


Once you are setup with a power supply/charger, it believe electrolysis is cheaper. It cleans pretty well.
All the rust remove options pretty much all will leave black residue which requires farther scrubbing. There are many post on LJ on this topic already.

I am not sure what the collecting value on these things. The only benchmark is EB and catalog equivalent. EB shipping will add significant to the cost. Catalog prices are high. I paid $25.00 for mine. Many will argue the old ones are better. Right? It is subject to debate.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

hhhopks said:


> *Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning*
> 
> This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.
> 
> ...


You did good. They want $99 for the one on CL!


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

hhhopks said:


> *Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning*
> 
> This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.
> 
> ...


Great find. Glad you are taking the time to restore it properly.

FYI, if you are still looking for a link that has quite a few examples and pictures of old woodworking vice restoration by aficionados, plus a possible manufacture date, go to http://vintagemachinery.org/

Look around, do a search, or just post a question with pictures. Those guys are a great resource and happy to share their knowledge. Wilton bought Columbian, and Wilton was purchased by the Swiss firm that owns Powermatic, Jet, and some others. Your vise shows made in Cleveland, so probably pre-Wilton buyout.

Of course, you can always do a google search for columbian vise restoration or combination of, and get some leads. Thanks for sharing.


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## steliart (Jan 15, 2011)

hhhopks said:


> *Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning*
> 
> This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.
> 
> ...


very very cool, thanks


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## BobMassie (Dec 28, 2020)

hhhopks said:


> *Disassembly, Rust Removal & Cleaning*
> 
> This is part of III of the blog series where the vise is disassembled and cleaned.
> 
> ...


Any idea where I for the brass pc for the same vice as above the 9-R ….please advise


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

*The Paint Job*

No different then painting the house. The trick is the preparation. That is the part that takes the most amount of time. The actual painting part goes very fast. I took the time to mask off the area that I didn't want get painted. I didn't want to have to scrape off the over spray. I took the time to mask off these areas. Tape and newspaper were used. Since my wife had previous compliant about my can spraying projects in the basement, I am doing in the garage with the garage door open. Here are a few photos that show what the components of the vise looks like right before the paint job.



















I sprayed on two coats of primer and two/three coats of gloss black. The color was chosen because that's what I got left over from a previous project and should be good enough for this vise. Basically I follow the paint manufacturer instruction. It does dry quickly. I have never trusted the handling time. Yes, you could touch it up but you better not have anything hard touching it. From experience the paint is still soft and will scratch very easily. It will take a week or two for the paint to harden. So handle the painted components with care. Here are the pictures of the components with after it has been painted with the masking material removed.










I probably should of waited for a week before assemble but I couldn't help myself. I went ahead and reassembled the woodworking vise back together. This type of woodworking vise doesn't seem to be part of collector's interest. Will it be someday? Who knows. So for $25.00 and hours of fun, is it worth it? Here is what it looks like (Before and after).



















Lubrication: After during a quick research evidently there are three choices
1. Oil, light oil, WD40….etc.
2. Wax, paste was.
3. Dry lubricant (commonly used on bicycle chains).

I think I'll try the dry lubricant. You should able to get that at the auto store. Someone did mention to clean the old oil stuff to ensure no funny chemical reaction. I'll probably let my vise sit for a while (It still have the WD40 on the guide and threaded rods.

The next step is to mount this woodworking vise on to its new home. I got sad news on this front. My TS motor has recently been burnt. No progress has been made on the workbench. So the workbench project is stalled, until I get the TS fixed or replaced (used saw with a warp iron table). Once I get my workbench back on track, I'll post the final blog on mounting on this vise.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

hhhopks said:


> *The Paint Job*
> 
> No different then painting the house. The trick is the preparation. That is the part that takes the most amount of time. The actual painting part goes very fast. I took the time to mask off the area that I didn't want get painted. I didn't want to have to scrape off the over spray. I took the time to mask off these areas. Tape and newspaper were used. Since my wife had previous compliant about my can spraying projects in the basement, I am doing in the garage with the garage door open. Here are a few photos that show what the components of the vise looks like right before the paint job.
> 
> ...


Great restoration!


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

hhhopks said:


> *The Paint Job*
> 
> No different then painting the house. The trick is the preparation. That is the part that takes the most amount of time. The actual painting part goes very fast. I took the time to mask off the area that I didn't want get painted. I didn't want to have to scrape off the over spray. I took the time to mask off these areas. Tape and newspaper were used. Since my wife had previous compliant about my can spraying projects in the basement, I am doing in the garage with the garage door open. Here are a few photos that show what the components of the vise looks like right before the paint job.
> 
> ...


Wow, you done good. What a quality vise. Dry lubricant is a better choice than grease, such as white lithium. Any grease for that matter will attract sawdust and gum up the screw. There is a slight issue with dry lube. Since the particles are so small, they will get way deep into wood pores if you just happen to let the two touch. You may need to sand off, and it could affect finishing. Woodcraft sells a non-silicon spray lube used in aerospace industry that works well. I use it on my TS. I can't remember the name at the moment, and of course, it is an added expense.


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## hhhopks (Nov 22, 2011)

hhhopks said:


> *The Paint Job*
> 
> No different then painting the house. The trick is the preparation. That is the part that takes the most amount of time. The actual painting part goes very fast. I took the time to mask off the area that I didn't want get painted. I didn't want to have to scrape off the over spray. I took the time to mask off these areas. Tape and newspaper were used. Since my wife had previous compliant about my can spraying projects in the basement, I am doing in the garage with the garage door open. Here are a few photos that show what the components of the vise looks like right before the paint job.
> 
> ...


Thanks David.

I'll definite try the dry lubricant (the non-silicon type).
Now I wish I have brakewash the whole thing before I start painting.
Oh well, lesson learned.


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## davidroberts (Nov 8, 2008)

hhhopks said:


> *The Paint Job*
> 
> No different then painting the house. The trick is the preparation. That is the part that takes the most amount of time. The actual painting part goes very fast. I took the time to mask off the area that I didn't want get painted. I didn't want to have to scrape off the over spray. I took the time to mask off these areas. Tape and newspaper were used. Since my wife had previous compliant about my can spraying projects in the basement, I am doing in the garage with the garage door open. Here are a few photos that show what the components of the vise looks like right before the paint job.
> 
> ...


Ah yes, the o'l brake fluid trick. I see this is not your first rodeo. Cast iron is porous, who knew. If you are not experiencing peeling paint, then may not be a problem. I'll keep my fingers crossed.


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## 280305 (Sep 28, 2008)

hhhopks said:


> *The Paint Job*
> 
> No different then painting the house. The trick is the preparation. That is the part that takes the most amount of time. The actual painting part goes very fast. I took the time to mask off the area that I didn't want get painted. I didn't want to have to scrape off the over spray. I took the time to mask off these areas. Tape and newspaper were used. Since my wife had previous compliant about my can spraying projects in the basement, I am doing in the garage with the garage door open. Here are a few photos that show what the components of the vise looks like right before the paint job.
> 
> ...


You did a great job bringing this vise back. Thanks for writing the series documenting the process.


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