# Greene inspired Night Stand



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Time to start the execution phase*

Well I think I am finally done with the design of this piece. I made a change last night which is actually a regression to an earlier model. I like this change. I have reversed the rails and stiles on the door construction making the stiles be the horizontal member. I read an entry on this site the other day regarding this technique. Sorry I can't remember who to credit it to. Anyway, Here are two jpeg exports to compare. I think the new arrangement gives the table a low and wide look which is more appropriate for a G&G peice.
Here are the exports to compare.



















It looks kinda busy around the joinery areas but that is just a Sketchup artifact. The lines where things come together will be much less pronounced once executed in wood.

So later this week I will be going over to the lumber store to buy a pile of Mahogany and hopefully get started after about a week of letting it sit stickered.

Merry Christmas!


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## Karson (May 9, 2006)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Time to start the execution phase*
> 
> Well I think I am finally done with the design of this piece. I made a change last night which is actually a regression to an earlier model. I like this change. I have reversed the rails and stiles on the door construction making the stiles be the horizontal member. I read an entry on this site the other day regarding this technique. Sorry I can't remember who to credit it to. Anyway, Here are two jpeg exports to compare. I think the new arrangement gives the table a low and wide look which is more appropriate for a G&G peice.
> Here are the exports to compare.
> ...


Great design. I agree the second one looks shorter. It's interesting on how a subtle change makes that difference.

Take lots of construction photos.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Time to start the execution phase*
> 
> Well I think I am finally done with the design of this piece. I made a change last night which is actually a regression to an earlier model. I like this change. I have reversed the rails and stiles on the door construction making the stiles be the horizontal member. I read an entry on this site the other day regarding this technique. Sorry I can't remember who to credit it to. Anyway, Here are two jpeg exports to compare. I think the new arrangement gives the table a low and wide look which is more appropriate for a G&G peice.
> Here are the exports to compare.
> ...


I got over to the lumber store to look at some mahogany last Thursday. Friday we had the storm of the century here in Northern California. Knocked down my lemon tree and a good chunk of fence in the back yard so I got diverted from this project cleaning up stuff. I did get some time to make a rendering of how to use the boards I am going to get tomorrow. I took the components of my sketchup model and layed them out on some 10" x 8' boards. Doing this, I got to think out the way the grain will be.









Here is the full sized jpeg

Looks like I will need about 30 bd ft to do two of these. The 8/4 Mahogany for the legs is kinda pricey since it comes in 12' lengths. I am trying to see if I can get them to sell me half of one, otherwise, I think I will use it eventually.


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## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Time to start the execution phase*
> 
> Well I think I am finally done with the design of this piece. I made a change last night which is actually a regression to an earlier model. I like this change. I have reversed the rails and stiles on the door construction making the stiles be the horizontal member. I read an entry on this site the other day regarding this technique. Sorry I can't remember who to credit it to. Anyway, Here are two jpeg exports to compare. I think the new arrangement gives the table a low and wide look which is more appropriate for a G&G peice.
> Here are the exports to compare.
> ...


Ambitious project. Looking forward to progress photos.


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## Topapilot (Nov 20, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Time to start the execution phase*
> 
> Well I think I am finally done with the design of this piece. I made a change last night which is actually a regression to an earlier model. I like this change. I have reversed the rails and stiles on the door construction making the stiles be the horizontal member. I read an entry on this site the other day regarding this technique. Sorry I can't remember who to credit it to. Anyway, Here are two jpeg exports to compare. I think the new arrangement gives the table a low and wide look which is more appropriate for a G&G peice.
> Here are the exports to compare.
> ...


EDIT: went to your web page, you're all over it! Good stuff! Keep us updated on progress.

Scott,
This is really nice and I'd love to get your SU file. Just offering a design thought…

It appears that your leg design is using the "quirk" detail from the Thorsen table, is that correct? I did that also on the table, but then read Pearts book that shows how to make the Blacker house leg. I don't have a finished pic from the desk I just finished, but the leg looks like this at the bottom:

The jig for making this is really simple:


Having done both, I find I like the Blacker style better, as it is more obvious from across the room - there is clearly a detail there to attract your eye, but it doesn't detract from the overall design. On my Thorsen table, the leg quirk is difficult to distinguish from across the room.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Time to start the execution phase*
> 
> Well I think I am finally done with the design of this piece. I made a change last night which is actually a regression to an earlier model. I like this change. I have reversed the rails and stiles on the door construction making the stiles be the horizontal member. I read an entry on this site the other day regarding this technique. Sorry I can't remember who to credit it to. Anyway, Here are two jpeg exports to compare. I think the new arrangement gives the table a low and wide look which is more appropriate for a G&G peice.
> Here are the exports to compare.
> ...


Thanks for the input Robb,

I have darrells book (signed by darrell). I am assuming that by your EDIT you mean you got the SU file. If not, just let me know cuz I'm happy to share. There are a lot of files in that directory. Older models, a cutlist and such. I am also playing with the overhang of the table top (again). There are 15 revisions. This one shortens the overhang.










Not sure if I like it "better" yet. It looks kinda butch.

BTW, I have been toying with the blacker leg. Thanks for the input. That's what makes a forum a forum!

Scott


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## jeanmarc (Mar 23, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Time to start the execution phase*
> 
> Well I think I am finally done with the design of this piece. I made a change last night which is actually a regression to an earlier model. I like this change. I have reversed the rails and stiles on the door construction making the stiles be the horizontal member. I read an entry on this site the other day regarding this technique. Sorry I can't remember who to credit it to. Anyway, Here are two jpeg exports to compare. I think the new arrangement gives the table a low and wide look which is more appropriate for a G&G peice.
> Here are the exports to compare.
> ...


I wish you good luck. I see that your project is well to think J am in a hurry to see it .bon courage afflicted for my English J tests to translate with Babel fish


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Storm pause*

I got over to the lumber store to look at some mahogany last Thursday. Friday we had the storm of the century here in Northern California. Knocked down my lemon tree and a good chunk of fence in the back yard so I got diverted from this project cleaning up stuff. I did get some time to make a rendering of how to use the boards I am going to get tomorrow. I took the components of my sketchup model and layed them out on some 10" x 8' boards. Doing this, I got to think out the way the grain will be.



Looks like I will need about 30 bd ft to do two of these. The 8/4 Mahogany for the legs is kinda pricey since it comes in 12' lengths. I am trying to see if I can get them to sell me half of one, otherwise, I think I will use it eventually.


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Storm pause*
> 
> I got over to the lumber store to look at some mahogany last Thursday. Friday we had the storm of the century here in Northern California. Knocked down my lemon tree and a good chunk of fence in the back yard so I got diverted from this project cleaning up stuff. I did get some time to make a rendering of how to use the boards I am going to get tomorrow. I took the components of my sketchup model and layed them out on some 10" x 8' boards. Doing this, I got to think out the way the grain will be.
> 
> ...


Can you still get Honduran mahogany there, or is it African?

Good luck on your project.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Storm pause*
> 
> I got over to the lumber store to look at some mahogany last Thursday. Friday we had the storm of the century here in Northern California. Knocked down my lemon tree and a good chunk of fence in the back yard so I got diverted from this project cleaning up stuff. I did get some time to make a rendering of how to use the boards I am going to get tomorrow. I took the components of my sketchup model and layed them out on some 10" x 8' boards. Doing this, I got to think out the way the grain will be.
> 
> ...


It's Honduran and about $9 a bd ft for 4/4 and $10 for 8/4 (which doesn't make sense 2 me cuz there is less milling)


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## Mario (Apr 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Storm pause*
> 
> I got over to the lumber store to look at some mahogany last Thursday. Friday we had the storm of the century here in Northern California. Knocked down my lemon tree and a good chunk of fence in the back yard so I got diverted from this project cleaning up stuff. I did get some time to make a rendering of how to use the boards I am going to get tomorrow. I took the components of my sketchup model and layed them out on some 10" x 8' boards. Doing this, I got to think out the way the grain will be.
> 
> ...


As I understand it the thicker chunks usually come from older trees and thus cost more per board foot.


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## Tangle (Jul 21, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Storm pause*
> 
> I got over to the lumber store to look at some mahogany last Thursday. Friday we had the storm of the century here in Northern California. Knocked down my lemon tree and a good chunk of fence in the back yard so I got diverted from this project cleaning up stuff. I did get some time to make a rendering of how to use the boards I am going to get tomorrow. I took the components of my sketchup model and layed them out on some 10" x 8' boards. Doing this, I got to think out the way the grain will be.
> 
> ...


One of my suppliers told me the reason for the higher prices has to do with the time required in the kiln to get it dry,the thicker pieces, I mean..


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Storm pause*
> 
> I got over to the lumber store to look at some mahogany last Thursday. Friday we had the storm of the century here in Northern California. Knocked down my lemon tree and a good chunk of fence in the back yard so I got diverted from this project cleaning up stuff. I did get some time to make a rendering of how to use the boards I am going to get tomorrow. I took the components of my sketchup model and layed them out on some 10" x 8' boards. Doing this, I got to think out the way the grain will be.
> 
> ...


Yup, just being a smart aleck. I feel the same way about software. How can something you can't even touch cost so much?


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Storm pause*
> 
> I got over to the lumber store to look at some mahogany last Thursday. Friday we had the storm of the century here in Northern California. Knocked down my lemon tree and a good chunk of fence in the back yard so I got diverted from this project cleaning up stuff. I did get some time to make a rendering of how to use the boards I am going to get tomorrow. I took the components of my sketchup model and layed them out on some 10" x 8' boards. Doing this, I got to think out the way the grain will be.
> 
> ...


Houduran is nice if you can still find it. Very stable with basically no tension in the wood.
I remember getting it for $4+ a bf.

African tends to have more tension in the wood and therefore more reactive when cut.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Cutting up boards*

I bought 35 bd ft of Hondo Mahogany. It's been stickered for about a week. I cut it all up and now it's ready for the next phase. Knife hinges are on order and some ebony from e-bay. I'll let it all sit till the weekend and keep my fingers crossed that none of the sticks will warp. I have been planning this way too long.

Here are all the boards. They are about 11" wide. There is an 8/4 piece in the forground.



Here are all the sticks



and a rare shot of the evil red eyed shop dwarf.


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cutting up boards*
> 
> I bought 35 bd ft of Hondo Mahogany. It's been stickered for about a week. I cut it all up and now it's ready for the next phase. Knife hinges are on order and some ebony from e-bay. I'll let it all sit till the weekend and keep my fingers crossed that none of the sticks will warp. I have been planning this way too long.
> 
> ...


Nice looking wood. Keep em coming


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## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cutting up boards*
> 
> I bought 35 bd ft of Hondo Mahogany. It's been stickered for about a week. I cut it all up and now it's ready for the next phase. Knife hinges are on order and some ebony from e-bay. I'll let it all sit till the weekend and keep my fingers crossed that none of the sticks will warp. I have been planning this way too long.
> 
> ...


Doesn't look at all evil to me.


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## jonboon (Dec 11, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cutting up boards*
> 
> I bought 35 bd ft of Hondo Mahogany. It's been stickered for about a week. I cut it all up and now it's ready for the next phase. Knife hinges are on order and some ebony from e-bay. I'll let it all sit till the weekend and keep my fingers crossed that none of the sticks will warp. I have been planning this way too long.
> 
> ...


i freak out when my girlfriends kids come near my tools, its mostly for their safety, but deep down inside, i worry about my tools too.


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## Tomcat1066 (Jan 3, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cutting up boards*
> 
> I bought 35 bd ft of Hondo Mahogany. It's been stickered for about a week. I cut it all up and now it's ready for the next phase. Knife hinges are on order and some ebony from e-bay. I'll let it all sit till the weekend and keep my fingers crossed that none of the sticks will warp. I have been planning this way too long.
> 
> ...


Looking good so far. Can't wait to see the finished piece


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## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cutting up boards*
> 
> I bought 35 bd ft of Hondo Mahogany. It's been stickered for about a week. I cut it all up and now it's ready for the next phase. Knife hinges are on order and some ebony from e-bay. I'll let it all sit till the weekend and keep my fingers crossed that none of the sticks will warp. I have been planning this way too long.
> 
> ...


Great looking wood. I love mahogany. It's getting expensive nowadays. What did you end up paying for it?

BTW Cute little girl.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cutting up boards*
> 
> I bought 35 bd ft of Hondo Mahogany. It's been stickered for about a week. I cut it all up and now it's ready for the next phase. Knife hinges are on order and some ebony from e-bay. I'll let it all sit till the weekend and keep my fingers crossed that none of the sticks will warp. I have been planning this way too long.
> 
> ...


Alright you have my attention. I can't wait for the next installment. It is such a joy to see others at work.

She is gorgeous. I am sure that she is ready to lend a hand with the project.


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## Mario (Apr 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cutting up boards*
> 
> I bought 35 bd ft of Hondo Mahogany. It's been stickered for about a week. I cut it all up and now it's ready for the next phase. Knife hinges are on order and some ebony from e-bay. I'll let it all sit till the weekend and keep my fingers crossed that none of the sticks will warp. I have been planning this way too long.
> 
> ...


I look forward to watching it come together.


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## Topapilot (Nov 20, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cutting up boards*
> 
> I bought 35 bd ft of Hondo Mahogany. It's been stickered for about a week. I cut it all up and now it's ready for the next phase. Knife hinges are on order and some ebony from e-bay. I'll let it all sit till the weekend and keep my fingers crossed that none of the sticks will warp. I have been planning this way too long.
> 
> ...


Hi Scott,
Are you still going with version (I think) 13 of your plan? Please show how you shape the door panels to match the cloudlift in the door rails. Could you grove the rails before shaping the cloudlift, and leave the panels as rectangles? I'm really interested in your design as it closely matches something my wife and I agree on (just about the first time that has happened, and I want to capitalize on that…) as one of my next projects.
In looking at nightstand designs, I thought a single door that opened away from the bed would be best. What was your thoughts on this? Are the two doors for appearance, or are they short enough that they don't get in the way when open? This is not a critique, just to understand the thought process as you've obviously put a lot of effort into the design.

BTW, that's one of the best looking shop dwarfs I've seen!


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## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cutting up boards*
> 
> I bought 35 bd ft of Hondo Mahogany. It's been stickered for about a week. I cut it all up and now it's ready for the next phase. Knife hinges are on order and some ebony from e-bay. I'll let it all sit till the weekend and keep my fingers crossed that none of the sticks will warp. I have been planning this way too long.
> 
> ...


Nice bit of lumber there Scott. Keep that shop dwarf under control. Look forward to seeing the end result.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cutting up boards*
> 
> I bought 35 bd ft of Hondo Mahogany. It's been stickered for about a week. I cut it all up and now it's ready for the next phase. Knife hinges are on order and some ebony from e-bay. I'll let it all sit till the weekend and keep my fingers crossed that none of the sticks will warp. I have been planning this way too long.
> 
> ...


I'll be getting back at it this weekend.

Topapilot,

First of all, I will take any sort of input; critique or not. I hope there are a lot of people out there (professionals and hobbyists alike) From whom I can learn. Heck, I might not agree! I sometimes suffer from tunnel vision during design and need to be snapped out of it. I have spent hours writing programs, gone home and thought about what I was doing (stupid), scrapped the whole thing in the morning and completed the program in less than an hour. it's the "what was I thinking" principal.

As for the revisions, I am actually on version 16. The revisions are as follows.

Version 13 still had the traditional stile and rail configuration on the doors. The revisions up until that time were drastic and joinery decisions. I am quite accustomed to versioning as I am a systems analyst by trade 










Version 14 flipped that configuration










Version 15 shortened the top. This is actually a retreat to a much earlier version.










Version 16 thins the top a little and re-proportiions the ebony splines to match the shorter top.










I will likely play with the top once I finish the case. I think I'll get up before the goblins wake and set two different pieces of 3/4" pieces of MDF on top till I see what I like.

I thought quite a bit about how to construct the panel grooves. Right now I think I will use a 1/4" slot cutter with a bearing to follow the form of the cloud lifts. I also considered cutting the slots before shaping the cloudlifts but I am concerned that the depth of the slot might allow the lip to warp and either open (bad) or close up (not so bad).

As for the doors, I like the look and I think a 17 inch door just looked too "Big". I also think two pulls in the middle will help to center it.

Thanks for the interest and the input. Keep it coming.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cutting up boards*
> 
> I bought 35 bd ft of Hondo Mahogany. It's been stickered for about a week. I cut it all up and now it's ready for the next phase. Knife hinges are on order and some ebony from e-bay. I'll let it all sit till the weekend and keep my fingers crossed that none of the sticks will warp. I have been planning this way too long.
> 
> ...


Well I managed to stay away from LJ most of the day. Been in the shop jointing and planing. The doors are all trimmed and ready to mortice and tenon. My goal is to get all the stiles and rails done today and make some templates tomorrow so I can start routing the cloud lifts. That will be my next installment. No pictures today because my son has the camera at Lake Tahoe.

Back to the shop now.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Milling Legs*

The weekend here in Northern California has been extraordinary. Spring is in the air. A pesky mocking bird has been trying to imitate my router.

Although I had indicated that I would start making templates for the cloudlift panels, I decided to start milling the legs this weekend. There were two reasons.

1. It was the right place to start.

2. I had to buy a 1/4" slot cutting bit for the panel grooves. The local supplier (Western Tool) had the bit and arbor but not the correct bearing for the 1/4" slot. It is on order and won't arrive til Thursday. I could have ordered it via the internet but I like to help keep the local guy in business because he is the only one north of Sacramento carrying a large supply of woodworking tools. I detest the borg and won't shop there for anything substantial.

Laying out the legs was quite an excercise. Since the legs are essentially the stiles for all of the panels (save the doors) they each need to be accurately milled on two sides to hold the rail mortices and panels. To make matters worse, they are mirror images of each other. Luckily I did a similar project with my wine rack and I had this figured out already.

First I jointed, planed and cut all the legs to their exact width and length. Then I arranged all the pieces til I liked the way the grain matched paying special attention to the front legs. Once I liked th arrangement, I marked the top of each leg so I could keep track of the pieces during the milling operations.



Above you can see the pieces are stacked as they will be encorporated into the cabinet. I drew arrows on the corner that faces toward the middle so I would always be able to arrange them the same way. The labels are from the perspective of looking at the cabinet from the front. Thus LR, RR = Left Rear, Right Rear. Since I am making two of these, I added the number "1" in front of the label on this set so I could keep the legs as a set. I also drew "corner rounds) to indicate where to run the 1/8" rounding bit. The dovetail markings are for the top front stretcher.



Above you can see how I layed out the legs for marking the layout lines. The two front legs are in the foreground and the two back legs are behind. The tops are facing the left and right. This gives me a good reference for marking all of the legs. I reference the marking gauge from the front of the front legs and the back of the back and I don't get (too) confused this way. Since the panel grooves and the mortices are all the same distance from the "Outside" of the leg, I can set the marking gauge once for the outside edge of the grooves then once more for the inside edges. If I start getting mixed up, I just stack them all together the way they were in the first picture and lay them all down again.



Next I cut the mortices in all the legs with my hollow chisel morticer. One setup of the fence cuts all the motices that are aligned with the panel grooves.



The mortice for the drawer stretcher was a little different. I set a stop block on the fence and cut them by moving the fence out for each plunge. A little time consuming, but the drawer stretcher will definitely be perfectly horizontal.



Next I cut the panel grooves. To do this I set up my router table with a 1/4" straight bit raised 1/4" above the table (plus 1/32). Since the existing mortice matches the location of the panel groove, I used one of the existing mortices to establish the location of the fence.



To cut the slot, I held the leg above the spinning bit being careful to keep it against the fence.



Then I lowered the leg into the bit. The bit starts in an existing mortice. Feed the leg until it exits into the mortice on the opposite end. You will hear the bit stop cutting. Now lift the leg out of the spinning bit being careful to keep it against the fence.

I am going back out to the shop now to cut some tenons. Hope to have them all done by the end of the day.

Cheers!


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## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Milling Legs*
> 
> The weekend here in Northern California has been extraordinary. Spring is in the air. A pesky mocking bird has been trying to imitate my router.
> 
> ...


Looking good - let us know how you progress…hope you get those tenons cut today…


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## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Milling Legs*
> 
> The weekend here in Northern California has been extraordinary. Spring is in the air. A pesky mocking bird has been trying to imitate my router.
> 
> ...


This will be fun to follow, I love Greene and Greene.


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## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Milling Legs*
> 
> The weekend here in Northern California has been extraordinary. Spring is in the air. A pesky mocking bird has been trying to imitate my router.
> 
> ...


Looks like a spectacular project unfolding.


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## Topapilot (Nov 20, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Milling Legs*
> 
> The weekend here in Northern California has been extraordinary. Spring is in the air. A pesky mocking bird has been trying to imitate my router.
> 
> ...


Looks good! I enjoy making two of things; for about 25% more effort, you get 100% more results. Tools and machines are already set up, and by the second one I usually get it right!

I'm guessing those are your hands in the pictures, so is the shop dwarf behind the camera??

Robb


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Milling Legs*
> 
> The weekend here in Northern California has been extraordinary. Spring is in the air. A pesky mocking bird has been trying to imitate my router.
> 
> ...


Sometimes I make two and give one away for a present. Of course there are two sides to my bed. I have been married for 24 years and we have somehow lived with only one nightstand. Guess whose side it is on? As for the pictures, I actually have three arms.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Progress*

I figured i would post a quick progress note. I have cut all the tenons for the case and fitted them. Here is a shot of the dry fit. I still need to lay in the dovetailed stretchers on the top. That will be tomorrow.



I won't bore anyone with making tenons.

It's coming along pretty well. I'll be shaping cloud lifts by Saturday.


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## benomatic42 (Oct 21, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Progress*
> 
> I figured i would post a quick progress note. I have cut all the tenons for the case and fitted them. Here is a shot of the dry fit. I still need to lay in the dovetailed stretchers on the top. That will be tomorrow.
> 
> ...


What's a cloud lift, and does shaping == a shaper, or something else?
-b


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Progress*
> 
> I figured i would post a quick progress note. I have cut all the tenons for the case and fitted them. Here is a shot of the dry fit. I still need to lay in the dovetailed stretchers on the top. That will be tomorrow.
> 
> ...


Hi Ben,

Look back at the first part of this blog. It is in 5 parts. You will see a sketchup model of the project. You can also see a jpeg in my latest project section. The cloudlift is the shape of the rails. i will be using template routing to shape them.

HTH


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## TheKiltedWoodworker (Dec 21, 2006)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Progress*
> 
> I figured i would post a quick progress note. I have cut all the tenons for the case and fitted them. Here is a shot of the dry fit. I still need to lay in the dovetailed stretchers on the top. That will be tomorrow.
> 
> ...


Scott,

A quick review of how you did the tenons/shoulders on the front stretchers w/the mortise in a tapered leg wouldn't bore me at all… They look quite smart.


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## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Progress*
> 
> I figured i would post a quick progress note. I have cut all the tenons for the case and fitted them. Here is a shot of the dry fit. I still need to lay in the dovetailed stretchers on the top. That will be tomorrow.
> 
> ...


Coming right along! Looks like it comes together real well…

Looking forward to the shaping blog!


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Progress*
> 
> I figured i would post a quick progress note. I have cut all the tenons for the case and fitted them. Here is a shot of the dry fit. I still need to lay in the dovetailed stretchers on the top. That will be tomorrow.
> 
> ...


Hey Red Headed Merganser,

Sorry to dissapoint but the legs are as straight as straight can be. My camera lense is round though LOL.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Templates and Cloudlifts*

Last night I made the master template. I have been thinking for a long time about how to do this. I thought I would need to chuck up the drum sander on my RAS but it turned out to be much easier than that. I started out with two pieces of hardboard the same width and length as the front lower stretcher. I could have chosen any rail. That was a random decision. I didn't have the camera last night so here is a little after the fact photography.

I marked the first hardboard piece using my sketchup model as a reference. All of the cloudlifts on this project are 3/8" deep but the length and direction varies.



I marked a 3/8" line with my marking gauge along the hardboard then made another line where the center of the cloudlift will be. I drew a "fair" curve there with a pencil.



I set up the fence 3/8" from the router bit. The bearing is above the work so it doesn't touch. Then, starting from the left, I routed the dip out til I got to where the lift starts.



When I got to the fair curve I lifted the right side from the fence still moving left to right and trying to follow the curve. It worked! I was very happy with the appearance of it. I didn't need to fiddle with it at all. Yipeeeee!

I don't have a picture of the next step but here is the idea. Now that I had defined my lift. I needed to get it's mirror image on the other side of the hardboard. To do that I carpet taped the piece I had just shaped to the second piece I started with. Then I duplicated it. This left me with two pieces that had only one fair curve. Next, I simply flipped them, re-duplicated them and that completed the master. The rest of the pieces were made by taping the master in various positions on more pieces of hardboard. Here are various shots of that operation.



The rectangle is where the waste will be removed.



Line up the mark from the master with the one on the part you are making. Tape them together and rout one side. Then do the other.



Here is the bottom cloudlift. Just flip the master.



Here are all the finished templates.



And here are the finished rails dry fitted.

Thats enough for today. I think I'll have a beer. I deserve it <o>


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Templates and Cloudlifts*
> 
> Last night I made the master template. I have been thinking for a long time about how to do this. I thought I would need to chuck up the drum sander on my RAS but it turned out to be much easier than that. I started out with two pieces of hardboard the same width and length as the front lower stretcher. I could have chosen any rail. That was a random decision. I didn't have the camera last night so here is a little after the fact photography.
> 
> ...


Great job on your templates!

The project is turning out pretty good from what I can see.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Templates and Cloudlifts*
> 
> Last night I made the master template. I have been thinking for a long time about how to do this. I thought I would need to chuck up the drum sander on my RAS but it turned out to be much easier than that. I started out with two pieces of hardboard the same width and length as the front lower stretcher. I could have chosen any rail. That was a random decision. I didn't have the camera last night so here is a little after the fact photography.
> 
> ...


Scott,

This is ingenuity at its best. You were presented with a problem and used your God given abilities to resolve the situation.

I agree with Gary that the project is looking good.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## griff (Feb 6, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Templates and Cloudlifts*
> 
> Last night I made the master template. I have been thinking for a long time about how to do this. I thought I would need to chuck up the drum sander on my RAS but it turned out to be much easier than that. I started out with two pieces of hardboard the same width and length as the front lower stretcher. I could have chosen any rail. That was a random decision. I didn't have the camera last night so here is a little after the fact photography.
> 
> ...


Great job, I hope to be able to do work like that someday


----------



## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Templates and Cloudlifts*
> 
> Last night I made the master template. I have been thinking for a long time about how to do this. I thought I would need to chuck up the drum sander on my RAS but it turned out to be much easier than that. I started out with two pieces of hardboard the same width and length as the front lower stretcher. I could have chosen any rail. That was a random decision. I didn't have the camera last night so here is a little after the fact photography.
> 
> ...


Looking good Scott! Great step forward in this project - really brings out the true form that you're after…


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Templates and Cloudlifts*
> 
> Last night I made the master template. I have been thinking for a long time about how to do this. I thought I would need to chuck up the drum sander on my RAS but it turned out to be much easier than that. I started out with two pieces of hardboard the same width and length as the front lower stretcher. I could have chosen any rail. That was a random decision. I didn't have the camera last night so here is a little after the fact photography.
> 
> ...


I really enjoy watching this one. Looks great so far.


----------



## BigTim (Jan 17, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Templates and Cloudlifts*
> 
> Last night I made the master template. I have been thinking for a long time about how to do this. I thought I would need to chuck up the drum sander on my RAS but it turned out to be much easier than that. I started out with two pieces of hardboard the same width and length as the front lower stretcher. I could have chosen any rail. That was a random decision. I didn't have the camera last night so here is a little after the fact photography.
> 
> ...


It's great that you nailed the curve on the first try. I've tried several times to draw a cloud lift & have never been happy with the look. Once I figure it out I want to try some G&G inspired pieces. Keep the reports comming, you inspire lots of us!


----------



## TheCaver (Nov 21, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Templates and Cloudlifts*
> 
> Last night I made the master template. I have been thinking for a long time about how to do this. I thought I would need to chuck up the drum sander on my RAS but it turned out to be much easier than that. I started out with two pieces of hardboard the same width and length as the front lower stretcher. I could have chosen any rail. That was a random decision. I didn't have the camera last night so here is a little after the fact photography.
> 
> ...


I'm going to have to reread this a few times, what a great solution…...!

JC


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Ebony - how do I tool it?*

I bought five pieces of gabon ebony from e-bay. It arrived today. I 
have never worked with ebony before and I have a couple of questions.

I intend to cut the pieces with the band saw. I this the best way to 
size it?

I have Darrels book. I am making some ebony splines for a table. Will 
the ebony machine well with a router? I am worried that it might 
splinter or shatter.

The ebony is coated with what appears to be wax. Is this common?

Any tips are welcome. I want to start miling it this weekend.


----------



## naperville (Jan 28, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ebony - how do I tool it?*
> 
> I bought five pieces of gabon ebony from e-bay. It arrived today. I
> have never worked with ebony before and I have a couple of questions.
> ...


Chico,
It is a great material to use and yes you can bandsaw it. It is very dense and I'd suggest using very sharp blades and bits. Take your time and set up your cuts on cheaper wood first… Compared to ebony, I think all other woods are cheaper…

Tom


----------



## saddlesore (Oct 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ebony - how do I tool it?*
> 
> I bought five pieces of gabon ebony from e-bay. It arrived today. I
> have never worked with ebony before and I have a couple of questions.
> ...


Scott, I know there are many here with much more experience than I, but I cut 1/4 " Ebony strips on a table saw (new sharp blade) without any chipout at all for an in progress hall table. This was out of 1/4 inch thick stock. I did overlay the stock with 1/8 masonite during the cuts, but you should have no problems cutting on the bandsaw. I just got a bandsaw or I would have used it instead.


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ebony - how do I tool it?*
> 
> I bought five pieces of gabon ebony from e-bay. It arrived today. I
> have never worked with ebony before and I have a couple of questions.
> ...


Scott,

It's usually very brittle, and will tear out very easily. Both a band saw and table saw will cut it fine. You just
turn less of it into saw dust using a bandsaw. A router will work well, just make sure that you back it up with a piece of scrap, to avoid chip out, if you are cutting across the grain.

It's one of my favorite woods next to boxwood, swiss pear and holly.

It's great for accents and inlays. If you look at my box from the competition you can see my use of ebony
on the front.

You will find a lot of expensive woods covered in wax. It's just to protect it and to prevent it from
checking.

How much did you get?


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ebony - how do I tool it?*
> 
> I bought five pieces of gabon ebony from e-bay. It arrived today. I
> have never worked with ebony before and I have a couple of questions.
> ...


I bought five pieces that are about 6" X 2" and a little over 3/8ths thick. Also 6 pen blanks. I will be using them for ebony splines and plugs in my night stands.

thanks tom, Tom and Gary.


----------



## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ebony - how do I tool it?*
> 
> I bought five pieces of gabon ebony from e-bay. It arrived today. I
> have never worked with ebony before and I have a couple of questions.
> ...


I have turned a couple of pens from ebony. I quickly chose to wear a respirator early in the first pen.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ebony - how do I tool it?*
> 
> I bought five pieces of gabon ebony from e-bay. It arrived today. I
> have never worked with ebony before and I have a couple of questions.
> ...


I might mention that African Blackwood a reasonable substitute for ebony if you cant find the latter or have limited finances.
I have about 50 lbs of it and I think my average is only about $6.00 /lb.

I use it for decoration only. It extremely hard and can be brittle so you have to take it easy with it when you are tooling it.

Regards

Bob


----------



## jeffthewoodwacker (Dec 26, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ebony - how do I tool it?*
> 
> I bought five pieces of gabon ebony from e-bay. It arrived today. I
> have never worked with ebony before and I have a couple of questions.
> ...


Use very sharp blades or tools and wear dust protection. Ebony turns well and can be buffed up to an outstanding shinre.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ebony - how do I tool it?*
> 
> I bought five pieces of gabon ebony from e-bay. It arrived today. I
> have never worked with ebony before and I have a couple of questions.
> ...


Thanks all,

Someone in a different group related it to working with hard maple, something I can definitely relate to. I'll be giving it a go this weekend.


----------



## Radish (Apr 11, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ebony - how do I tool it?*
> 
> I bought five pieces of gabon ebony from e-bay. It arrived today. I
> have never worked with ebony before and I have a couple of questions.
> ...


One thing I've noticed when using ebony in conjunction with other woods, especially open-grained and lighter woods. It may be necessary to scrape or plane in the final surfacing of pre-finished pieces to minimize the transfer of ebony sanding dust into the adjacent wood(s). It's pretty obvious against maple, although fairly easy to clean off with a vacuum or microfiber dusting cloth.


----------



## naperville (Jan 28, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ebony - how do I tool it?*
> 
> I bought five pieces of gabon ebony from e-bay. It arrived today. I
> have never worked with ebony before and I have a couple of questions.
> ...


Doug, I'll second that… Making multiple species veneer glue ups, I regulary use a 1# cut shellac to close the pores to keep the darker woods from contaminating the lighter ones.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ebony - how do I tool it?*
> 
> I bought five pieces of gabon ebony from e-bay. It arrived today. I
> have never worked with ebony before and I have a couple of questions.
> ...


Thanks everyone. I don't think I have a source for Blackwood but it does look interesting. I plan to polish the exposed parts of the ebony on a polishing wheel using some brown rouge as suggested in Darrell Peart's book "Green & Greene Design Elements for the Workshop" which is pretty much my bible for this project. I will sand the mahogany case before inserting the ebony splines and pegs. That should eliminate contamination of the primary wood.

Thanks again. This has been a useful topic.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Cloudlift panels*

I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.

I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


----------



## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


I like what I see! Nice work!


----------



## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


Looks very nice!


----------



## Robb (Aug 18, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


That is going to be a great nightstand when you're done! You'll thank yourself for not compromising on the little details later.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


Scott,

This is coming along nicely.


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


You are definitily making progress. Nice!


----------



## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


*Nicely done,
wish I had some of your equipment to work with.
my desk is approaching completion.
will send picts when ready
next is an end table a la Greene and Greene.
BT_**


----------



## Topapilot (Nov 20, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


Nice Job! Is the middle stile the same thickness as the rails? It looks thinner in the picture but I can't tell.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


You hit the nail on the head Robb. Everything has an 8th inch offset. The rails are offset from the legs, the center stile is offset from the rails and the panel is offset from the stile. Then everything is rounded off with an 8th inch roundover. It adds a lot of visual interest and I am liking it very much. I will add some better pictures when I am not at work


----------



## rikkor (Oct 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


This project is really coming out great. It looks like it will be a winner.


----------



## Brad_Nailor (Jul 26, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


Looking really nice! It's always worth the extra effort to book match bigger panels. Looking forward to seeing the finished piece!


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


Looking really nice. The cloud lift is a nice feature.


----------



## Topapilot (Nov 20, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


Boy, waiting for the next blog post was killing me, I thought it would never come - - but it was worth it!
Excellent work,
Robb


----------



## DrTebi (Jun 16, 2009)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


I was just about to draw a very similar side table from scratch. I hope you don't mind if I use your sketchup file from your home page as a starting point…

This table will be my project for the "furniture construction" class I am taking at the academy of art in San Francisco. The only thing I would want to change is the two doors to a single door, and probably change the dimensions a bit.

Great project!


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


Hi DrTebi,

Go ahead and use that model any way you wish. Just promise you will post a picture of the finished project. You can find the final model here

The difference is the drawer construction. I added a bead to the top and bottom. It really sets the drawers off.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Cloudlift panels*
> 
> I did a little work cutting panels tonite so I thought I would update.
> 
> I cut the panels to match the cloudlift rails. I probably could have saved myself a lot of trouble by routing the slot deep but I thought it would be less likely to warp if I followed the detail with a 1/4" slot cutting bit and a bearing. That required shaped panels. I used the same templates to draw lines on the panels and then used a router table and fence set out at 3/8" to cut the panels. I will add more pictures later. Here is the nightstand with the bookmatched panels fitted.


Good work Scott


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Laying in the front top stretcher*

This is part nine in this series. If you havn't already seen them, don't forget to browse the other eight by clicking on the "Part" links above.

I was distracted in March with three birthdays (including my 50th) and a lot of other things that spring brings around. My family visited from the four corners of the earth and in keeping with the Chico tradition we had a big party. So there is a big blank space in this series but not to worry, there was nothing to miss!

So on Sunday I layed in the top stretchers with a dovetail. Here are a few photos of the series of events.

I didn't get a picture but I started by cutting inside the lines with my sweet little back saw. Then I chopped out the waste with my new AI chisels.



I chopped and pared and chopped and pared. . .



I missed the photo where I cut the dovetail on the stretcher but here is the finished result.



The camera makes this stretcher look like it is a way different color. It is different but not that bad. I will have some color matching to do when I finish the piece. I will likely use an aniline dye.

I hope this wets your appetite Robb! I will start getting busy again.


----------



## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the front top stretcher*
> 
> This is part nine in this series. If you havn't already seen them, don't forget to browse the other eight by clicking on the "Part" links above.
> 
> ...


Scott:
looks good .. i am impressed….
I've started on the Gamble entry table , scaled down for my class project this quarter
I'll send pict as I progress.. Using Lyptus instead of Mahog…..
I's a look alike but much cheaper and sustainably farmed as I understand.


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the front top stretcher*
> 
> This is part nine in this series. If you havn't already seen them, don't forget to browse the other eight by clicking on the "Part" links above.
> 
> ...


I had a 50th this month also.

Good looking dovetail!


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the front top stretcher*
> 
> This is part nine in this series. If you havn't already seen them, don't forget to browse the other eight by clicking on the "Part" links above.
> 
> ...


1958 must'v been a good year


----------



## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the front top stretcher*
> 
> This is part nine in this series. If you havn't already seen them, don't forget to browse the other eight by clicking on the "Part" links above.
> 
> ...


Very cool Scott!


----------



## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the front top stretcher*
> 
> This is part nine in this series. If you havn't already seen them, don't forget to browse the other eight by clicking on the "Part" links above.
> 
> ...


Good way to get back at it! Looks like the new chisels are getting a bit of a workout!


----------



## Topapilot (Nov 20, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the front top stretcher*
> 
> This is part nine in this series. If you havn't already seen them, don't forget to browse the other eight by clicking on the "Part" links above.
> 
> ...


I thought I was getting into trouble with that e-mail, but it was worth it to see that dovetail! The file cabinet I'm working on should have that same feature, but dosen't. I'll take pictures tomorrow and start a blog.

Robb


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the front top stretcher*
> 
> This is part nine in this series. If you havn't already seen them, don't forget to browse the other eight by clicking on the "Part" links above.
> 
> ...


Just found your series so have to go backwards and catch up - I didn't discover G&G until I was 65 so I envy the extra 15 years you've got to make a variety of G&G inspired pieces. BTW have you seen Darrel Peart's new shop? Have a look at www.furnituremaker.com You will also see some detail photos of his work. Enjoy your G&G journey

Phil


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the front top stretcher*
> 
> This is part nine in this series. If you havn't already seen them, don't forget to browse the other eight by clicking on the "Part" links above.
> 
> ...


Scott -I've now caught up and enjoyed the entire series very much, particularly how you made your cloud lift templates. I was also interested in your decision regarding the panel slot in the rails following the cloud lift rather than making a straight thru slot. In my posted projects both the entry door and the ceiling light fixture have straight thru slots and there has been no problem with wood movement. I just couldn't imagine the cost of having the glass made to follow the cloud lift in the door rails so took the easy way out but it worked.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Laying in the bottom*

Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.

I put the bottoms in today. It took me a while as I was very nervous about screwing something up at this late stage in the game. Also, since the bottom holds everything in place, I wanted to make sure it was the right place 

So I started by running a 3/4×1/4 dado around the inside of all the bottom rails. I referenced the cuts from the tops because I want the center stiles to have no ugly spaces where they meet the panel rails.



I took a piece of scrap plywood and roughly cut out the corners to reference against the legs. I used this to draw lines on the legs where I needed to remove material for the cutouts.



Now that I had the lines on all the legs, I dissassembled the piece and drew two more lines 1/4 inch down from the edge. This gives me a reference for the depth.



Another job for my sweet little english back saw.



The first cut.



And the second. (My 8 year old left me a birthday present on the bench)



I chopped out the waste.



Here it is all finished.



All finito (Times eight) Note the piece of scrap in the mortice. That is to keep from blowing out the back with the chisel (I learned this the hard way. Not much damage though)



Here is one of the side panels assembled.



And the birch plywood bottom all tucked in.



I am really happy with the way it turned out. Getting close to glueup time. (But it's beer time now)


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


Glue-up is a special time. Sometimes a little scary. Did I forget something?

Good luck.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


Oops I left out a picture.

This glueup has me really nervous but I think everything referencing off the bottom will make it a little easier. This will give me an excuse to go get some more clamps too.


----------



## TheCaver (Nov 21, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


Hand tools! Eeek!

Great job! Now, I have one question. I can't for the life of me figure this line out:

*I referenced the cuts from the tops because I want the center stile to have no ugly spaces where it meets the rails.*

I know I am missing something simple here…..

Thanks!

JC


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


Well JC, I have discovered that one of the difficult things about this design is the fact that the rails are curved. I think when I did the templates there was a little less than 1/16 difference in the width (not length) of the rails. So using the first picture as a reference, imagine that the rail on the left is 1/16" narrower than the one in the back. If I referenced the dado from the bottom, the left rail would be 1/16 inch below the center stile when I put in the bottom.

HTH


----------



## jiri (Dec 18, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


That is very interesting blog.
Great job.
Thanks for posting.


----------



## RonPage (Apr 9, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


What really whacks this project out is the quadalmadation of the reduration ratio with the curve. Wow…Nice job!!!

Thanks for a great post!


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


Hi Scott,

This has been a nice posting series. I tend to agree with Gary about the glue-up being the most intimidating phase of the operation. From here there is no turning back.

I am looking forward to the the next step.


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


Scott - just goes to show patience and planning pays off. As I went down the pictures I came to a screeching stop when I saw the backsaw in place - talk about short strokes. Good luck with the glue-up. When I'm nervous about the glue-up I give myself lots of open time by using epoxy.

Phil


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## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


Scott: it's looking good even for a Chicoian..
what is the the hand pruning saw for in all the back ground shots?
just kidding..
People from chico know full well..
Great project
can't wait to get my photos of my Greene and Greene inspsiration showing.
Bruce


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## Topapilot (Nov 20, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


"quadalmadation of the reduration ratio with the curve" - what he said!

Scott,
Good call on referencing the grooves, if you hadn't caught that now it would have bugged you for weeks afterward. I thought this was an ambitious project when you first posted your sketchup files. Now that you're well into the carcass, is it the amount of work you were expecting? Your attention to detail is certainly paying off, the project looks great, but I'm worn out trying to keep track of the cuts in each leg.

Good work, and keep up the pics!
Robb


----------



## FloridaNoCypress (Apr 12, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


Thank you, Scott, for your posting to my blog. And your nightstand looks great.

So, is it possible that the Greene brothers used some Valley Oak? What other furniture / cabinet grade species are in California?


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


Hi FloridaNoCypress. See my reply your original post. I don't know if the Greenes used Valley Oak. Pasadena is about 500 miles south of here and I don't know too much about the area other than it's really crowded and smoggy.

Bruce, you do know very well that the trees in Chico are enormous and given their own would soon obliterate the city  Thank you John Bidwell

And Robb, I knew going into this that it would be an ambitious project. I didn't know how ambitious though. I am known in my professional world as a project manager who never fails (knock on wood). Challenges are for overcoming. Planning is everything.

You are right. the legs look like swiss cheese LOL


----------



## Topapilot (Nov 20, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


Scott,
What would have been the impact of NOT setting the bottom into the legs? If it rides only in the grooves in the side panels I would think it would be plenty strong, but you might get gaps around the legs of the wood shrinks. Is that the only issue?
Robb


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


I actually tried that but I wasn't satisfied with my ability to make it look good (no gaps). I stood there looking at it thinking to myself "I'm going to hate those little gaps every time I open the door"


----------



## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Laying in the bottom*
> 
> Here is number ten of my Greene and Greene inspired nightstand.
> 
> ...


You made a good call here - looks like it turned out great!


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Dust Panel construction - Thinking out loud*

I am ready to start constructing the dust panel for this project. Having never made a dust panel I am trying to think through the joinery. Who knows, maybe I'll answer my own question while writing this post.

Here is the exploded drawing of the dust panel from my SU model. You can click on the image to see the whole thing but this end is just like the other 



Here is a cutaway jpeg of the dust panel in the case.



What I am unsure of is how to join the drawer runners to the legs (both front and rear). Right now I am thinking pocket joinery. I suppose I could lay them in with M&T but that seems like overkill for a piece that will not bee seen. It might also complicate my glueup. (Although I do intend to start by assembling the sides)

The other problem I am having is how to join the dust panel back and sides. After I assemble and glue up the sides of the case, I will need to assemble the case back and dust panel in the next step of the glueup. But how do I attach it?

Looking for input. (Dang, I didn't figure it out yet)


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust Panel construction - Thinking out loud*
> 
> I am ready to start constructing the dust panel for this project. Having never made a dust panel I am trying to think through the joinery. Who knows, maybe I'll answer my own question while writing this post.
> 
> ...


I would think that the dust panel would be dadoed into the case with a blind dado. The drawer runners could
also be dadoed into the legs.


----------



## tooldad (Mar 24, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust Panel construction - Thinking out loud*
> 
> I am ready to start constructing the dust panel for this project. Having never made a dust panel I am trying to think through the joinery. Who knows, maybe I'll answer my own question while writing this post.
> 
> ...


What is the project. I typically dont' use dust panels, but dust frames. They are used in order to keep a project square but yet lightweight rather than a solid frame divider. I have my students use pocket hole due to simplicity and quickness.


----------



## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust Panel construction - Thinking out loud*
> 
> I am ready to start constructing the dust panel for this project. Having never made a dust panel I am trying to think through the joinery. Who knows, maybe I'll answer my own question while writing this post.
> 
> ...


Scott:
You might look to Lang's Book for ideas …Also you might ask D Mathias (sp) who has finished a Gamble Entry table …he is a lumberjock…
BT


----------



## Topapilot (Nov 20, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust Panel construction - Thinking out loud*
> 
> I am ready to start constructing the dust panel for this project. Having never made a dust panel I am trying to think through the joinery. Who knows, maybe I'll answer my own question while writing this post.
> 
> ...


I downloaded a copy of Gary Rogowski's article on building an arts and crafts sideboard from FWW. He shows how he mounts a dust panel. I can send you the .pdf if you want. Shoot me your e-mail. (he also shows how to make hidden compartments under the dust panel, if you need to hide things from shop dwarfs…)

The other articles I have show a dust frame, but no panels. I can send those as well if you like.
Robb


----------



## BigTim (Jan 17, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust Panel construction - Thinking out loud*
> 
> I am ready to start constructing the dust panel for this project. Having never made a dust panel I am trying to think through the joinery. Who knows, maybe I'll answer my own question while writing this post.
> 
> ...


I've built several cases with simmilar construction & have had good luck with making the end boards of the dust panel wide & cutting a rabbit to set a matching rabbit on the drawer runner. the resulting joint has lots of long grain glue surface for strength. The drawer runner then does not have to attach directly to the legs or the side panel. The joint at the center- rear could be a pocket screw for simplicty or fit into a dado, or you could add a glue block.


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust Panel construction - Thinking out loud*
> 
> I am ready to start constructing the dust panel for this project. Having never made a dust panel I am trying to think through the joinery. Who knows, maybe I'll answer my own question while writing this post.
> 
> ...


I agree with Robb - Rogawski's article in FWW has good photos and description of making the dust panel.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust Panel construction - Thinking out loud*
> 
> I am ready to start constructing the dust panel for this project. Having never made a dust panel I am trying to think through the joinery. Who knows, maybe I'll answer my own question while writing this post.
> 
> ...


Thanks all. These are all great food for thought.

Robb, You jogged my memory. I actually have Rogowski's sideboard in my copy of FWW "In the Craftsman Style". I will give it a look later this afternoon.

Thanks!


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Dust panel solution*

I thought about this problem and came up with the following solution. This is one side of the dust panel. I will cut a shallow tenon on the end of the runner and an accompanying mortise in the leg to accept it. This will capture the runner when I assemble the side panel. The runner will have a long dado in which the dust panel will ride (with a long tenon). I started cutting it up tonight. The Sketchup model has been modified and I think I have all the joinery worked out.



*Update*

I completed both dust panel frames.
Here is the frame all cut up.



And the frame in the case.



It was much easier than I thought. Enjoyable too!


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust panel solution*
> 
> I thought about this problem and came up with the following solution. This is one side of the dust panel. I will cut a shallow tenon on the end of the runner and an accompanying mortise in the leg to accept it. This will capture the runner when I assemble the side panel. The runner will have a long dado in which the dust panel will ride (with a long tenon). I started cutting it up tonight. The Sketchup model has been modified and I think I have all the joinery worked out.
> 
> ...


You store dust in your furniture. What will everyone think of that?


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust panel solution*
> 
> I thought about this problem and came up with the following solution. This is one side of the dust panel. I will cut a shallow tenon on the end of the runner and an accompanying mortise in the leg to accept it. This will capture the runner when I assemble the side panel. The runner will have a long dado in which the dust panel will ride (with a long tenon). I started cutting it up tonight. The Sketchup model has been modified and I think I have all the joinery worked out.
> 
> ...


They will like it Karson. It's magic dust.


----------



## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust panel solution*
> 
> I thought about this problem and came up with the following solution. This is one side of the dust panel. I will cut a shallow tenon on the end of the runner and an accompanying mortise in the leg to accept it. This will capture the runner when I assemble the side panel. The runner will have a long dado in which the dust panel will ride (with a long tenon). I started cutting it up tonight. The Sketchup model has been modified and I think I have all the joinery worked out.
> 
> ...


Cool. I had no ideas myself, so I was curious what you'd do!


----------



## BigTim (Jan 17, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust panel solution*
> 
> I thought about this problem and came up with the following solution. This is one side of the dust panel. I will cut a shallow tenon on the end of the runner and an accompanying mortise in the leg to accept it. This will capture the runner when I assemble the side panel. The runner will have a long dado in which the dust panel will ride (with a long tenon). I started cutting it up tonight. The Sketchup model has been modified and I think I have all the joinery worked out.
> 
> ...


A good, solid solution.

When you open the drawer, won't the magic dust escape?


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust panel solution*
> 
> I thought about this problem and came up with the following solution. This is one side of the dust panel. I will cut a shallow tenon on the end of the runner and an accompanying mortise in the leg to accept it. This will capture the runner when I assemble the side panel. The runner will have a long dado in which the dust panel will ride (with a long tenon). I started cutting it up tonight. The Sketchup model has been modified and I think I have all the joinery worked out.
> 
> ...


Scott - I admire the energy you apply to getting the details right


----------



## Obi (Oct 19, 2006)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust panel solution*
> 
> I thought about this problem and came up with the following solution. This is one side of the dust panel. I will cut a shallow tenon on the end of the runner and an accompanying mortise in the leg to accept it. This will capture the runner when I assemble the side panel. The runner will have a long dado in which the dust panel will ride (with a long tenon). I started cutting it up tonight. The Sketchup model has been modified and I think I have all the joinery worked out.
> 
> ...


Magic Dust doesn't escape… It magically sits there. Come on … it's MAGIC. And even if it wasn't magic just the idea of getting that "Just Made" feeling of having dust on the furniture is a novelty item. Makes it worth more money. Hand Crafted covered in dust just like it was brought out of the shop. Not all smooth and just waxed like at the local furniture store. Anybody can have that.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust panel solution*
> 
> I thought about this problem and came up with the following solution. This is one side of the dust panel. I will cut a shallow tenon on the end of the runner and an accompanying mortise in the leg to accept it. This will capture the runner when I assemble the side panel. The runner will have a long dado in which the dust panel will ride (with a long tenon). I started cutting it up tonight. The Sketchup model has been modified and I think I have all the joinery worked out.
> 
> ...


I just got done cutting and fitting the Dust Frame. I added a couple of pictures of it sitting in the case.

Obi, you are correct. The magic dust doesn't escape. Its magical properties prevent that. However, occasionally you need to leave favors for the shop pyxies or it will slowly lose its potency and become normal dust. The pyxies really enjoy top shelf though. Don't EVER try to pass off some well stuff as a pyxie favor. (I learned this the hard way)

Oh, I almost forgot. It is better to leave small favors often than large favors. Those pyxies can get annoying if they'v had too much.


----------



## BigTim (Jan 17, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust panel solution*
> 
> I thought about this problem and came up with the following solution. This is one side of the dust panel. I will cut a shallow tenon on the end of the runner and an accompanying mortise in the leg to accept it. This will capture the runner when I assemble the side panel. The runner will have a long dado in which the dust panel will ride (with a long tenon). I started cutting it up tonight. The Sketchup model has been modified and I think I have all the joinery worked out.
> 
> ...


Well the magic dust must not share properties with the magic smoke that makes computers work.

One liittle power outage & my trusty Sony refuses to boot up.

The magic smoke escaped!!!


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust panel solution*
> 
> I thought about this problem and came up with the following solution. This is one side of the dust panel. I will cut a shallow tenon on the end of the runner and an accompanying mortise in the leg to accept it. This will capture the runner when I assemble the side panel. The runner will have a long dado in which the dust panel will ride (with a long tenon). I started cutting it up tonight. The Sketchup model has been modified and I think I have all the joinery worked out.
> 
> ...


This is such a great project. I am looking forward to seeing the finished project.


----------



## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Dust panel solution*
> 
> I thought about this problem and came up with the following solution. This is one side of the dust panel. I will cut a shallow tenon on the end of the runner and an accompanying mortise in the leg to accept it. This will capture the runner when I assemble the side panel. The runner will have a long dado in which the dust panel will ride (with a long tenon). I started cutting it up tonight. The Sketchup model has been modified and I think I have all the joinery worked out.
> 
> ...


This continues to look crisp and sharp…really neat work you're doing!


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

* Reversing course - a Design decision*

While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).

Well when I got home I went out to the shop and cut one in a piece of MDF scrap and set it up along side the leg.



Then I sat down fo a minute and looked at it and decided it just doesn't look right. I don't like the way the indent intrudes on the rails. They are just too low on this piece for that detail. I tried re-arranging the jig cutting the indent so it is closer to the floor. Still no go. There just isn't enough room between the floor and the rails. So instead of trying to cram too many details into this piece, I think I'll just round/taper the bottoms of the legs so they flow to an end and be satisfied with that.

Now I am beginning to wonder if ebony plugs will overwelm the design. If I do go ahead with them, they will definitely be very small and unobtrusive ~1/4". I really like the lines of this piece and the mahogany grain is beautiful. I don't want to ruin it with too much detail. There is already a lot going on with all the curves and offset panels.

Here is a shot with the doors sitting loosely in place. I only need to cut hinge mortices for the Brusso knife hinges and I will be ready for a glue up.



Off to the shop, I have some more sanding to do.


----------



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> * Reversing course - a Design decision*
> 
> While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).
> 
> ...


wow…that chair on the link is insane!!! beautiful…I can see why the "indent" is attractive and something you would try…

before i read that you are thinkning of rounding/taper I was thinking slight taper…but once again i agree the leg is very short between the end of the case and the floor…thus its hard to do it…I think the idea of the test piece was a good idea…it really helps…to see…

this is my first look at your blog…IN TWO DAYS i will have a wee more time…and will try to check it out…this is a nice project so far…

CHICO BOUND AT THE END OF THE MONTH…


----------



## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> * Reversing course - a Design decision*
> 
> While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).
> 
> ...


Scott:
I like the indents but would place them closer to the floor and also round the leg bottoms like darrel has done.
only my opinion
looks nice so far.
BT


----------



## Topapilot (Nov 20, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> * Reversing course - a Design decision*
> 
> While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).
> 
> ...


Scott,
Your design choices have been spot on so far; trust yourself and move forward!
Robb


----------



## Taigert (Nov 20, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> * Reversing course - a Design decision*
> 
> While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).
> 
> ...


I think it looks great just the way it is, like you said there is already a lot going on, you don't want to detract from what you already have, it's beautiful as is.


----------



## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> * Reversing course - a Design decision*
> 
> While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).
> 
> ...


If you have an idea or a choice you always go with your first choice and you cannot go wrong


----------



## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> * Reversing course - a Design decision*
> 
> While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).
> 
> ...


Very nice detail. Those are the things that make the difference. Looking forward to the completion. They're coming along nicely.


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> * Reversing course - a Design decision*
> 
> While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).
> 
> ...


Chico - I agree the indent is not quite right with the rails so low. How about the Stickley taper on the inside faces of the legs? They might not appear stubby if the angle is shallow. As for the ebony plugs, my feeling is that the Halls used too many, especially in the chairs. I might change my mind when I see them up close and personal this October when we attend the Craftsman weekend. I don't think every tenon has to have an ebony plug. After all the Halls put them any where they wanted. Keep up the nice work,


----------



## MarkM (Sep 9, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> * Reversing course - a Design decision*
> 
> While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).
> 
> ...


Scott,

The design is looking very nice so far.

I too think that the indents may be better lower on the leg. Try cutting your MDF sample so that the indent starts 1/2" to 3/4" from the bottom of the leg and see what you think. When I see them on G&G pieces with longer legs they make it look like a tapered leg even though the leg may be square - very elegant. I'm sure you will know what you like when you see it!

As for the Ebony plugs, I think your approach to prototype the design elements before committing to them is the best approach. I would also do it for the plugs. Remember that the Hall Bro's did not always use them structurally. They did them mainly for aestetics.

Nice work.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> * Reversing course - a Design decision*
> 
> While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).
> 
> ...


It has been a lot of fun watching you work through the design and details of this project. Your work is nice and tight.

I plan on some Greene and Greene inspired pieces in the future. I love the style.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> * Reversing course - a Design decision*
> 
> While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).
> 
> ...


Great looking night stand. Looking forward to the completion.


----------



## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> * Reversing course - a Design decision*
> 
> While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).
> 
> ...


A feature like the indent detail can always be applied down the line in the future…

Your making good progress with this…great doors! I don't recall seeing a post on the build of them!


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> * Reversing course - a Design decision*
> 
> While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).
> 
> ...


Thanks for the interest guys. I really appreciate the feedback. I decided to make the indents and am blogging them in the next installment.

Dorje, Sorry I missed that one. They are really just panels on hinges you know ^O^. I do have some pictures and I'll add them when I blog the knife hinge placement. I have never used knife hinges so it should be another adventure.


----------



## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> * Reversing course - a Design decision*
> 
> While making doors and sanding, I have been thinking about what to do with the bottoms of the legs for this project. I didn't really think about it too much while I was doing the SU model. I thought I would leave that part of the detail to the building phase. Well, yesterday I thought I would try cutting an indent detail like on the Blacker Chair Legs. Here is an example of them in this beautiful execution by Darrell Peart. So I spent the better part of an hour making a jig yesterday evening and thinking about coming home and cutting them all day at work today (while the glue dried).
> 
> ...


Sounds like a plan -


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*

After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.



I also made the curve on the bottom on this scrap so I could transfer it to the leg for further shaping.

Here is the first leg all shaped. I have a little more sanding to do but this shows the idea.



Here is a shot of the legs with the indent before adding the taper. I am glad I added this detail.



I have only shaped the curve on the bottom of one of the legs so this shot doesn't show it yet. I'll replace this shot with a new one once they are done.

I really appreciate the feedback I got on this phase. I made the jig exactly as described in Darrell Peart's book. When I was done I was a little dissapointed that it didn't turn out the way I expected. I lost sight of the fun of adapting techniques to work in the scope of a design (a lesson I have learned before LOL). That's why I don't build from plans.

Thanks. This is a great site and my work will be better for it.

*UPDATE:*

I finished sanding all the profiles. Here is a shot of one.



and a poorly lighted shot of the stand as it is.



I'm really happy with the way it turned out. I'm also getting antsy to finish this piece because I'm dreaming up some new projects. I'll be working on it all weekend.


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


That's an interesting detail!


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


This is a subtle detail to the nightstand that adds to the visual interest of the nightstand.

Nice decision.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


The whole piece is comming out really nice.
Don't be too hard on yourself, it's a learning experience with the first one of anything.

Bob


----------



## BigTim (Jan 17, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


Great job of adjusting the design as you go. The balance of design elements can make or break a piece. You are doing all the right things to make a beautiful table. Keep us informed! Thanks.


----------



## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


To me the curve at the bottom is going to make a nice finish…great looking job


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


Scott - nice ! Your perseverence paid off and illustrates how well the build-design approach works.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys,

Stanley, I think it is more like design-build-design. Do you think they built the space shuttle that way? Hmmmm.


----------



## saddlesore (Oct 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


Adjusting on the fly! It looks good.


----------



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


this turned out great!!!


----------



## tenontim (Feb 24, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


Nice detail, Scott. I'm starting to look at more G & G furniture for detail ideas. This is going to be a nice table. Keep us posted.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


I finished shaping all four legs on one of the nightstands and updated with some photos for anyone following the blog. I am pretty happy with the way it's moving. I'll add a photo or two of the shaping process tomorrow.


----------



## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


You oughta be happy! This is looking good. You will add *some *ebony won't you?


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


I'm sure i will dorje but I'll prolly stick little black dots on there and stare for a while LOL.


----------



## Zuki (Mar 28, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


i came in late on this series. gonna have to go back and start fom the beginning. good looking night stand thought. i love cloudrifts (sp) and that new detail.


----------



## bilsborough (Apr 13, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *More on the fly design work. I'm happy - more pics too*
> 
> After more thinking and feedback from the group I decided to have another go at the indent detail. I modified the jig so the indent appears only 1 1/4" above the bottom of the leg. I also adjusted the length of the indent by making the ramp steeper. The result looks like this in the scrap MDF.
> 
> ...


That is some impressive craftsmanship


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*

I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.

I don't own a belt sander so I did this all by hand. I got a lot faster after the first couple.

First I cut the indent detail using a ramped jig. (sorry, I don't have a picture). This is outlined in Darrell Peart's book.



I marked a line 1/8" in from the edge all the way around the bottom and another line 3/4" from the bottom on all the sides.



I sanded the edge up to the lines with 150 and a big sanding block making a nice curve.



then I did the other side. I eyeballed the curves from the top to make sure they were fair and the same. I did the other two sides the same way.



After that I rounded over all the edges.



And here is what I was left with.



But this was the boring part. I had to sand 8×4=32 of these little details to round off the inside edges. The end grain part on the bottom was th most difficult. I wanted to keep it crisp.

*I don't have any fingerprints left *



Sure looks sweet though. All 8 legs are done.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*
> 
> I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.
> 
> ...


Scott,

Looks really NICE… just like they wanted it to look…

Ever wonder how they did it? Maybe you KNOW… I don't know…
... just letting my mind wander…
1. Boil/steam the leg ends really good…
2. When ready, nice & soft, take an old Clamp, place it off angle, and clamp the h..ll out of it making it sink in…
3. Do it again & again for each lil design desired.  

Do you know how they did it?

I get the impression you did it your way… (not knowing how they did it).

I never realized how much a small detail could make such a difference…

Looks G R E A T !!

Thank you.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*
> 
> I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.
> 
> ...


I don't know Joe. They prolly had a bunch of apprentices working for peanuts LOL.


----------



## GaryK (Jun 25, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*
> 
> I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.
> 
> ...


Nice job hand sanding. That's a lot of work!


----------



## Taigert (Nov 20, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*
> 
> I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.
> 
> ...


Scott, 
That looks like one hell of a lot of work, but it does look good. You would think that there was an easier way to do it.


----------



## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*
> 
> I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.
> 
> ...


That is very nice. Love the look.


----------



## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*
> 
> I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.
> 
> ...


Thank you for sharing.


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*
> 
> I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.
> 
> ...


Looks great Scott - you will be forever grateful you stuck with that detail and re-sized it to fit your piece rather than throw in the towel.


----------



## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*
> 
> I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.
> 
> ...


Great job Scott…..
. I was about to say great Scott..
I looks like you read Darrels book too.
Lots of tedium but the results are wonderful…
Glad you decided to do it as it make the piece really stand out.
Greene and Greene sstuff is losts of fun..
BT….


----------



## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*
> 
> I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.
> 
> ...


Lots of work but what a difference it makes it looks really fine you did a great job too bad you had to do it by hand now you have a finish that comes out thanks for the posting


----------



## teenagewoodworker (Jan 31, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*
> 
> I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.
> 
> ...


looking good. its the details that count! thanks for the post.


----------



## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*
> 
> I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.
> 
> ...


Nicely done, Scott. I am not sure I would have had the patience to do all this by hand though. The thrill wore off quickly after the first couple of sides, I am sure. This are nice details that you are adding to the piece.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*
> 
> I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.
> 
> ...


Scott,

Problem is, I can't think of a way to soften the indents except by hand. Rounding the bottoms went pretty fast.


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Blacker indent summary - Lots of sanding on this detail*
> 
> I decided to summarize the Blacker Indent detail.
> 
> ...


Good end result Scott. One thing about belt sanders, you can go too far too quickly. At least you had good control over the result.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*

I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.



First I glued up the doors. I sometimes have problems getting my panels and doors to glue up square so I came up with this simple jig to help with the process. It is nothing more than a couple of jointed sticks clamped square to the bench to keep the assembly square.



Once I have the jig all square and secure I put two strips underneath to keep the sqeeze out from making a mess of the panel.



Put on some glue.



and clamper up.

The jig keeps everything square and all it really is is some jointed sticks. Perfect!



So then I set the knife hinges into the top and bottom rails in the door opening. Here I am measuring the bottom rail (the one with the bottom glued on to a rabbet). the hinge sits back 1/4" from the front and 1/16" from the edge of the tenon. The tape was intended to keep the router from blowing out the front (more on that later)



Then I routed between the lines with a 1/4" straight bit.



It still blew out on the tenon side 



Then I chiseled out the waste to the line.



Here is the hinge in place.



On the top rail I tried another idea. I thought if I cut in the front of the mortise with my little hack saw blade it might not blow out.



It still blew out on the tenon side only this time it was a little worse, because the blowout started at the back of the saw kerf. Dohhhh 



So I'm thinking that it was really unreasonable for me to think that I could get away with leaving a little 1/16" sliver over on that side. I will just trim it out with a chisel and leave a little gap. I don't think it really looks bad. Here is the case with the knife hinges installed. I still need to mortise hinges in the doors tomorrow after the glue up sets. I'll post more pictures then.

*UPDATE*



I got four perfect ones on the second nightstand. The secret is start on the inside and come out very very (very) slowly with the router bit. I wonder whose side of the bed this one will go on. Hmmmmm.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*
> 
> I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.
> 
> ...


I have been looking forward to each of these posts. I just love the Greene & Greene style.

Thanks!


----------



## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*
> 
> I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.
> 
> ...


scott:
Great job I love the way you give us pictures of the process.
I've been trying to do the same with my project but can't get the pictures to post
maybe later.
My project is almost done and I will post those pictures soon.
the smoke here is so thick I can't even see the sun..
Glad the Humbolt fire is out.
Bruce


----------



## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*
> 
> I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.
> 
> ...


Great post. I have never tackled hinges like those.

I wonder if you just routed the rectangle and finished the front edge with chisel if you would avoid the blowout.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*
> 
> I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.
> 
> ...


I thought the same thing gizmodyne. Fact is that 1/16" is a pretty slim sliver. I think next time I will leave the exit part until the rail is glued into the case then finish it off with a chisel. That way the glue might keep it supported. I have only done the first case. I still have one left to try out that theory. I really like these hinges and will likely use them again.


----------



## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*
> 
> I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.
> 
> ...


My other idea is to do the round over after, clamp a piece of stock to the one you are routing to a)support the router b)back up the workpiece to minimize tearout. Then do the round over.


----------



## croessler (Jun 22, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*
> 
> I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.
> 
> ...


Nice work…. I look forward to seeing the rest.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*
> 
> I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.
> 
> ...


Great series Chico.
I saw that blow out on the endgrain and I wonder if you could run some cyanoacrylate on that end before you routed the latch inset?
I don't know but just thinking out loud.

Bob


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*
> 
> I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.
> 
> ...


Thanks Bob, I do that a lot (thinking out loud).

I did the second night stand and added pictures above. All four hinge motises (Morti?) came out perfetly this time. The trick was to start on the inside and come out the front very slowly with the router. I may adjust this technique on some future project by not leaving the sliver at all thus creating a zero gap door. Hmm. Zero gap sounds intreaguing.


----------



## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*
> 
> I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.
> 
> ...


Nice work! That router looks like a monster tackling that fine little mortise job…might be time for the little one…


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*
> 
> I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.
> 
> ...


Well dorje. There is nothing like hearing the obvious and being surprised by it. that is the best suggestion yet.

I was hoping my kids and lovely wife would pool resources and buy me a colt for fathers day. I kept dropping hints. Abigail, my 19 year old daughter said I didn't need two routers. (She wants to get her MBA and be a CFO or something)

Wahhhhhhhh


----------



## Grumpy (Nov 9, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*
> 
> I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.
> 
> ...


Great blog Scott.


----------



## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*
> 
> I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.
> 
> ...


Scott:
Nicely done. still want to post my project Gamble entry table to the web but can't quite figure out the blog protocall's yet. 
CA glue is great stuff for fixing blow outs.
I used it on my bread board which came out nice.. You cannot see where it was applied…
BT


----------



## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Door glueup and Brusso knife hinges*
> 
> I glued up the doors and set in knife hinges this week. Here are a few photos of the process.
> 
> ...


"Abigail, my 19 year old daughter said I didn't need two routers."

Well one's a router, the other is a laminate trimmer. Very, very different…


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*

In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.



First I cleaned off the bench and layed the back and two sides out in sequence. The sides were already glued up in my last entry. The back has a center stile so it needed to be glued in place. That is why the back is dissasembled.



Glue on the back stile tenons, rail tenons and left side mortise. Push it together.



Glue the dust panel and bottom on. This includes the two stretchers which are attached as an assembly.



Glue for the left side, clamp it up and wait about 45 minutes.

Something to note here. I put the knife hinges in place for this glue up so the little sliver on the tenon side would have something to hold it tight against the leg.



Here is what it looked like after the clamps came off and the glue was all cleaned up.



I used pieces of laminate to shim the doors in place. I used my jointer to fit the doors taking very small amounts off (~1/64") in a pass.



I clamped each door to the front of the bench so the router would have plenty of surface to rest on and routed out the hinge mortises. Then I fit them with a chisel.



This is what the doors look like closed.



And open.

I am extremely happy with the way this turned out. The knife hinges were a little intimidating but they turned out not to be much harder than butt hinges. I would recommend them to anyone wanting a nice clean look. I couldn't really find any good instructions for installing them on the internet except on some premium sites. Maybe I will blog a real how to after this project is complete.

Off to the shop again. I have one more set of doors to fit.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*
> 
> In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.
> 
> ...


That's really NICE!

Very good pics & description.

Those hinges look good too… yes, a How To would be nice. It's good your bench allows you to clamp right up to the top like that!

Thanks for keeping us updated…


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*
> 
> In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.
> 
> ...


Very nice out come Chico.
I like the way you addressed the grain as well. Many forget this step and it spoils the effect.
Makes me want to go out to the shop and keep finishing the place.

Bob


----------



## GMman (Apr 11, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*
> 
> In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.
> 
> ...


Very good job….. I would like to make a comment but since you are finish I will not but have a good look at your doors and the bottom rail


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*
> 
> In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.
> 
> ...


You'r freakin me out man! I am looking for something obviously wrong but I don't see it (getting out measuring tools and heading out to shop)

SPILL IT! LOL


----------



## bfd (Dec 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*
> 
> In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.
> 
> ...


Scott,

I just finished reading through this entire series and man this project is amazing! The blog is very very detailed which I love but even more is your work and craftsmanship. I cannot wait to see the next installment. These night stands are going to be beautiful.


----------



## gwurst (Nov 28, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*
> 
> In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.
> 
> ...


Looks very nice. I've looked at those hinges before and also felt intimidated, so I'd like to see a blog on their install myself.


----------



## toddc (Mar 6, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*
> 
> In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.
> 
> ...


Ah, finally got my new issue of "Chico Woodnut" featuring Greene & Greene projects.


----------



## Davesfunwoodworking (Oct 16, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*
> 
> In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.
> 
> ...


Looks good!!! I cant wait to see it all done. Great job so far. Keep up the good job.


----------



## gad5264 (Sep 13, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*
> 
> In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.
> 
> ...


Chico,
That is a very nice piece and a nice tutorial of your work progress. thanks for posting.


----------



## Dorje (Jun 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*
> 
> In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.
> 
> ...


Looks great to me!


----------



## JohnFry (Apr 8, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*
> 
> In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.
> 
> ...


Great job Chico,

I must admit that the first set of knife hinges I did were on a Krenov style cabinet. I mortised the doors and case prior to construction and felt I had everything "nailed" as far as accuracy goes. But Oh no! Once it was all assembled, I was gluing tooth picks into the screw holes so I could re-drill and tweak the positions until I got them perfect. And I did that several times too.

My second set went much better and I don't know why.

Your cabinet looks great!


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*
> 
> In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.
> 
> ...


Great looking cabinet. The doors look fantastic.


----------



## jeanmarc (Mar 23, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Glue up + fitting and hanging doors*
> 
> In my last entry I mortised Brusso knife hinges into the case. The next step is glueing up the case and then fitting/hanging the doors. Here are a few photos of that process.
> 
> ...


Very good job.Very good pics and description.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Making Drawers*

I have been building the drawers.



Here is a jpg of the model.



I started with some layout.



Then I cut the fingers with a jig I made.


I was left with this.


I ran a rabbett down the drawer side.


The drawer side fingers were left proud. I pillowed them with sandpaper.


More Pillowing


I was left with this.

A glueup.

I didn't get a picture but I ran a dado on the sides for the backs to sit in and another all around for the drawer bottom.


Here it is with the bottom in.

I glued the beading to the top and bottom of the drawer face.


And it looks like this with some mineral spirits wiped on for effect  They still need to be fitted some.

I am really happy with the way these turned out. I learned a lot making them too.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


Nice looking drawer!

I've often wondered about making Custom Box Joints like that, but never have done it.

Now that you have shown me it can be done, I'll give it a try someday… for fun…

Did you make the bead on the router table? It looks cool!


----------



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


wow…great post!!! awesome photos…yu have been busy wood working….and cycling? cuz it looks like in the first photo you shaved your legs too!


----------



## Betsy (Sep 25, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


Really looks like the project is coming along. I like the mineral spirits trick - sure helps to give you an idea of what you are going to end up with.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


LOL Matt. Those legs are covered in white hair!

Here is my trusty steed though. You know that we love our bicycles here in Chico.


----------



## Bigbuck (May 15, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


Very nice, thanks for sharing. IMakes me want to make a greene and greene peice someday


----------



## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


Love the grain.


----------



## Davesfunwoodworking (Oct 16, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


You are doing such a great job on this night stand. With gas prices the way they are we will all be riding bikes soon.


----------



## thetimberkid (Apr 5, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


Great job!

Thanks for the post

Callum


----------



## jeanmarc (Mar 23, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


Excellent work Scott,the photographs and the explanation are excellent.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


Very good tutorial on this technique and style.
I really like the pillowed box joint ends. The really set off the cock beading on the drawer fronts.
Elegant!


----------



## offseid (Jan 16, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


Very nice, Scott! Appreciate the walk-through.


----------



## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


Looking real nice Scott. Thanks for the update.


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


Scott - coming along very nicely - enjoyed the series of photos. Any chance you'll be going to the Craftsmans Weekend in Pasadena this fall


----------



## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


nice legs, um - drawer! Elegant and clean-lined


----------



## Topapilot (Nov 20, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


Nice job on the fingers, and the beading is just the right touch.


----------



## SCOTSMAN (Aug 1, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


clever design like the idea well done looks very nice from the front.Alistair


----------



## bfd (Dec 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


Scott,

What a great post! Your attention to detail is very impressive. This piece is going to be awesome.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Drawers*
> 
> I have been building the drawers.
> 
> ...


Thanks all,

Joe, The beading is just a 1/4" strip bull nosed on the front. I bull nosed it on the router table with a 1/8" roundover run through twice.

Phil, I would love to go to Pasadena for the Craftsmans Weekend. I have been following the chatter on Darrels list. Unfortunately I can't convince the LOML that it would actually be a vacation  so we went to a lodge near Klamath Falls instead.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Making Lots of Ebony Plugs*

I have been making Ebony plugs for the nightstands. There are 96 plugs in this project (48 per nightstand) so I needed to make a production run out of it. I decided to do a little "how I did it" for those who might need this in the future.

The plugs will be set into their square holes with the edges flush to the surface. The tops are pillowed ~1/64" making them sit proud. Each plug must be polished to give it a beautiful sheen.



I started with 6 1/4" X 3/4" X 3/4" ebony pen blanks that I bought off of ebay. They were pretty reasonable and high quality pieces. Ping me if you want the source.



Next I cut them down to 5/16" squares with the band saw. If you make 5 sticks you can do both ends at the same time and make 10 plugs at a whack.



I use this jig to turn them into perfectly square 1/4" stock. Actually they are ~1/64" over 1/4 so they will fit into 1/4" holes tightly.



This is done with my #4. Plane two opposite sides until the plane takes no more shavings, then the other two sides leaving smooth square stock.



I made a jig using Darrell Peart's model from his book "Greene & Greene - Design Elements for the Workshop". I won't reveal the dimensions out of respect for Darrell but the general idea is to spin the stock in the hole rounding off the end. The Worksharp actually works pretty good for this because I can use finer sandpaper than a disk sander (which I don't own). I highly recommend Darrell's book if you want to make furniture in this style.



This is what the end looks like so far.





I used my Jointer push paddles with 220 sandpaper to further sand the ends round and smooth. The foam padding makes this pretty easy. It takes about 20 seconds to get each end ready for the next step.



I loaded up a polishing wheel with green polishing compound and buffed the end of each stick. The wheel is actually spinning in this picture. The camera froze it pretty well  I will not use the green stuff again. I would rather use jewlers rouge or diamond paste but I couldn't source it where I live. I'll be ordering some on line for next time.



I had a hard time getting a good shot of the polished end. It has a nice warm black sheen. The green stuff is hard to clean off.





Next I cut off the 1/4" plugs from each end. I tried to use the bandsaw but it was a little scary when the plug tried to get jammed in the table plate and came shooting back at me. It was just as easy to use my back saw.



A cornucopia of ebony plugs.

It wasn't a lot of fun but not too bad. It takes about 15 minutes to do 10 plugs (five sticks x 2 ends). Now that I have it worked out I will be more productive in the future.

Next step, making square holes and setting plugs.


----------



## bfd (Dec 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Lots of Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I have been making Ebony plugs for the nightstands. There are 96 plugs in this project (48 per nightstand) so I needed to make a production run out of it. I decided to do a little "how I did it" for those who might need this in the future.
> 
> ...


Hi Scott,

These look great! perfect timing too because I have to make some ebony plugs on my next project. I will be pinning some through M&T joints in a figured bubinga side table. Thanks for the detailed explaination and the great photos.


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Lots of Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I have been making Ebony plugs for the nightstands. There are 96 plugs in this project (48 per nightstand) so I needed to make a production run out of it. I decided to do a little "how I did it" for those who might need this in the future.
> 
> ...


Scott - I'm looking forward to your blog on champhering the sides quickly and efficiently without having them jump around and falling off the table - that's 384 cuts. You probably saw that Darrel keeps the cut-off under control on the bandsaw using the rubber end of a pencil - it works.


----------



## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Lots of Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I have been making Ebony plugs for the nightstands. There are 96 plugs in this project (48 per nightstand) so I needed to make a production run out of it. I decided to do a little "how I did it" for those who might need this in the future.
> 
> ...


COOL!

Thank you!

*Tip for using Band Saw:*
Get a cardboard backer from a Pad of paper… 8×10 is a nice size.
Cut into the cardboard 1/2 way across it and stop at 1/2 way through it.
(blade should be about in the middle of the sheet.)
Turn off BS.
Tape down the corners.
Proceed to use it for your small pieces… will not fall into that space!

Works like a charm!

Very nice procedure for making them!

Can hardly wait to see the finished projects.


----------



## Texasgaloot (Apr 8, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Lots of Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I have been making Ebony plugs for the nightstands. There are 96 plugs in this project (48 per nightstand) so I needed to make a production run out of it. I decided to do a little "how I did it" for those who might need this in the future.
> 
> ...


These are turning out really cool. I can't figure out why all my square plugs won't fit in my round holes, though.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Lots of Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I have been making Ebony plugs for the nightstands. There are 96 plugs in this project (48 per nightstand) so I needed to make a production run out of it. I decided to do a little "how I did it" for those who might need this in the future.
> 
> ...


*Brian:* Thanks! I can hardly wait to see that side table. Does it have any bent laminates?

*Phil:* The Chamfering won't be nearly as horrible as making all the holes for the plugs to sit in.

*Joe:* Thanks for the tip! I'll be using that one in the future. I was thinking of making a zero clearance insert but didn't want to spend the time. The paper idea seems elegant.

*Tex:* Chamfer the bottoms. Then they'll fit


----------



## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Lots of Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I have been making Ebony plugs for the nightstands. There are 96 plugs in this project (48 per nightstand) so I needed to make a production run out of it. I decided to do a little "how I did it" for those who might need this in the future.
> 
> ...


Very nice.

I'm trying to work some G&G influence in to my rustic designs.
Because I make a lot of pieces for my craft business, I like to mass produce the components as needed.
I use various kinds of twig pegs made from local woods such as hickory, walnut, oak, etc.
Ebonized white oak pegs makes a good contrast to paler woods.

I use a Japanese style pull saw to slice my pegs and decorative pieces.
I can use them to slice coin-thick pieces from wood with great precision.
Take a peek at Lee Valley for a good selection of these saws.

Where my rustic design meets G&G, instead of chamfering the tops of the pegs, I hand cut random facets with a sharp knife.

The diversity of LJ influences helps enrich us all.

Many thanks for sharing.


----------



## Mario (Apr 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Lots of Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I have been making Ebony plugs for the nightstands. There are 96 plugs in this project (48 per nightstand) so I needed to make a production run out of it. I decided to do a little "how I did it" for those who might need this in the future.
> 
> ...


Thank you so much for showing this process. It is nice to see how people do things as it helps us all improve.

Thanks.


----------



## TThomas (Dec 16, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Lots of Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I have been making Ebony plugs for the nightstands. There are 96 plugs in this project (48 per nightstand) so I needed to make a production run out of it. I decided to do a little "how I did it" for those who might need this in the future.
> 
> ...


thank you for the information here…I've been wanting to do this and you've saved me some time..thanks


----------



## AaronK (Nov 30, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Lots of Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I have been making Ebony plugs for the nightstands. There are 96 plugs in this project (48 per nightstand) so I needed to make a production run out of it. I decided to do a little "how I did it" for those who might need this in the future.
> 
> ...


WOW. i wish i had discovered this a couple months ago. I was killing myself trying to get 1/2 and 1/4" sticks planed and square. i shouldve thought to use something like the jig you show in the 3rd figure. man, i just cant believe how easy it couldve been!!!!!


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Lots of Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I have been making Ebony plugs for the nightstands. There are 96 plugs in this project (48 per nightstand) so I needed to make a production run out of it. I decided to do a little "how I did it" for those who might need this in the future.
> 
> ...


well done


----------



## schroeder (Feb 8, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Making Lots of Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I have been making Ebony plugs for the nightstands. There are 96 plugs in this project (48 per nightstand) so I needed to make a production run out of it. I decided to do a little "how I did it" for those who might need this in the future.
> 
> ...


I can't tell you how helpful for me this was! - just when I needed this info! - Thanks much for taking the time to blog this project.

Schroeder


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Setting Ebony Plugs*

I spent some time today setting the ebony plugs I made in my last entry. It was pretty easy really even though I was pretty apprehensive about drilling holes in an assembled piece.



Start by drilling some holes. These plugs are 1/4" so the drill bit is a little smaller at 3/16". I drilled a little over the depth of the plugs at 1/4"



I bought a very cheap 1/4" hollow mortice chisel. I flipped the bit upside down and used it to center the chisel over the holes.



Then I squared the bit.



I drove it home with a wooden mallet. I take two passes at this. The idea is to keep the sides well defined. When you pull the hollow chisel out you don't want to rock it. Pull it *STRAIGHT OUT*. That keeps the hole from enlarging or deforming.



Here is what I was left with. Clean up the bottom a little with a small chisel. I used a 1/8" because I don't want to meddle wth the definition of the square hole or crush the sides.



Dab a little glue in the hole to coat the sides. No glue on the plugs. I don't want any squeeze out.



Chamfer the plug just a little starting about 1/16" from the bottom. Don't start the taper up too high, you only need a little bit to get it started. Press the plug in with your finger.



Tap it in with a small mallet till the edges are *JUST FLUSH* with the face. The effect is that the plug is proud because of the pillow, not because it is sticking out of the hole.



As you can see, these are not perfect. For my first run I put the plugs on the back of the case. I think the bottom plug should be a little further to the right to separate them a little more. Also, they are not perfectly squarely aligned. Ah well, it is a good start and I have the process worked out.


----------



## bfd (Dec 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Setting Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I spent some time today setting the ebony plugs I made in my last entry. It was pretty easy really even though I was pretty apprehensive about drilling holes in an assembled piece.
> 
> ...


Scott,

These look fantastic! Great detail in the blog and in your work. I am excited to try this in my table. You must be in the home stretch now on your night stands.


----------



## Texasgaloot (Apr 8, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Setting Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I spent some time today setting the ebony plugs I made in my last entry. It was pretty easy really even though I was pretty apprehensive about drilling holes in an assembled piece.
> 
> ...


This is a great series.

Clever approach using the hollow mortise chisel! Well done. I'm Greene with envy.


----------



## boboswin (May 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Setting Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I spent some time today setting the ebony plugs I made in my last entry. It was pretty easy really even though I was pretty apprehensive about drilling holes in an assembled piece.
> 
> ...


You really do nice work Scott.
Your joints are almst invisible.

Bob


----------



## trifern (Feb 1, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Setting Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I spent some time today setting the ebony plugs I made in my last entry. It was pretty easy really even though I was pretty apprehensive about drilling holes in an assembled piece.
> 
> ...


That is a wonderful detail. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Setting Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I spent some time today setting the ebony plugs I made in my last entry. It was pretty easy really even though I was pretty apprehensive about drilling holes in an assembled piece.
> 
> ...


Scott - look'n good. Isn't it fun lining up those little devils with no way to see because of all the fingers holding the hollow chisel. Are you going to Pasadena in Oct?


----------



## hObOmOnk (Feb 6, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Setting Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I spent some time today setting the ebony plugs I made in my last entry. It was pretty easy really even though I was pretty apprehensive about drilling holes in an assembled piece.
> 
> ...


Hi Scott:

I like your idea of offsetting the second peg.

Tip: I would use some blue painters tape in the area you wish to drill/punch.
Carefully layout pencil lines for alignment of where you want to cut.
You can drill and punch directly through the tape.

I'm planning to use some square pegs in an upcoming design.
I've decided to align the pegs diagonally for a little extra effect.


----------



## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Setting Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I spent some time today setting the ebony plugs I made in my last entry. It was pretty easy really even though I was pretty apprehensive about drilling holes in an assembled piece.
> 
> ...


its coming along great!!!!!!


----------



## jcees (Dec 31, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Setting Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I spent some time today setting the ebony plugs I made in my last entry. It was pretty easy really even though I was pretty apprehensive about drilling holes in an assembled piece.
> 
> ...


Schwweeeeeeet!!!

always,
J.C.


----------



## Karson (May 9, 2006)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Setting Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I spent some time today setting the ebony plugs I made in my last entry. It was pretty easy really even though I was pretty apprehensive about drilling holes in an assembled piece.
> 
> ...


Great job. Looking nice.

Here is my blog on my G&G kitchen cabinets.

I put my pegs 5/8 from each side Top right is 5/8 - 5/8 and the others are 5/8 from the where the cross pieces met.

I just guessed at the placement. I thought it looked balanced. I used 3/8" plugs


----------



## Blake (Oct 17, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Setting Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I spent some time today setting the ebony plugs I made in my last entry. It was pretty easy really even though I was pretty apprehensive about drilling holes in an assembled piece.
> 
> ...


Great photos of an interesting process.


----------



## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Setting Ebony Plugs*
> 
> I spent some time today setting the ebony plugs I made in my last entry. It was pretty easy really even though I was pretty apprehensive about drilling holes in an assembled piece.
> 
> ...


*Phil:* Lining up those little devils is indeed a challenge. I'm getting pretty good at it though. This whole project has been a long series of firsts for me.

*Randy:* Thanks. The blue tape idea sounds excellent. Aligning the pegs like that isn't my idea. It was invented by Henry and Charles Greene in about 1904 LOL.

*Karson:* Thanks for the peek at those kitchen cabinets. The way you constructed the doors is inspiring. I have a tall case that has doors I wish I had built like that. (They warped and don't quite sit flush where they meet in the middle).

*Blake:* Thanks! Did you get your pin router thing worked out?

Thanks to all who have looked.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*

Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.



I finished installing all 90 some odd plugs and installed some Brusso ball catches to the tops of the doors. This was making me nervous as I have not used them before. I bought brad point bits from LV so I could drill them accurately. That took two weeks of waiting. They turned out nicely though and I really like the way they click into place.



I made a decorative detail for the step downs on the back and sides. It carries the eye down to the panel. This was done by running a 1/8" roundover on the edge of a 1/2" board and then ripping the part off with a band saw. The back was then cleaned up with a hand plane to remove the saw marks and the part was trimmed carefuly with a chisel to fit the panel.



Here is one of the sides with the parts installed. I also applied them to the back.

Next I started making the top.



Here is a blowup of the top.



I jointed and glued up some 3/4" boards for the core. Then I milled some 2 1/2" wide stock for the breadboard ends. The breadboard ends step down 1/8" proud of the core on the ends and stand a little less than that thicker than the core. I used a 3/8" slot cutting bit to make a slot in the end of the core and in the breadboard end. All of the edges of the core and breadboard ends are rounded over with a 1/8" roundover bit except at the bottom where the core meets the breadboard. I also milled loose tenons for the slots. The grain on the tenons goes the same direction as the core for expansion.



I trimmed the tenons with my #4 for a nice slip fit.



And glued them into the core slot.



Here it is dry fit.



I used the hollow chisel mortiser and a 3/8" bit to cut the slots in the breadboard end for the plugs and screws.



And pre-drilled the holes for the screws with a 1/8" brad point bit.



Then I cauled and glued it all up. I only put glue on about 3" of the center so the core can expand.



I used the same slot cutting bit setup to cut the slot for the ebony spline. Since the breadboard ends are thicker than the core, the router needs to be registered on the bottom of the assembly.



Next I used a piece of MDF with the same stepdown as the top to make a cutout so I could get the shape for the ebony splines. I made a test piece from scrap.



Here it is in the slot.



I milled up some ebony for the splines and started shaping them. That's all I could get done. I hope to complete the tops next weekend. After that there is only.


Fastening the tops
Making the handles for the doors and drawers
Finishing


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## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


your not done yet??? Just kidding…looking good…


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## Emeralds (Aug 24, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


G&G style pieces are always challenging, fun and rewarding when they're done. The details are everything and you seem to have them well covered. Beautiful work, can't wait to see the finished piece. Thanks for sharing.


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## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Scott - good report. I'm doing the same drill but didn't take photos - glad you did. I'm a little nervous about trimming the splines in place thanks to Darrell's comment in his book about the end grain being exposed when trimming with the router.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


*Matt* - I can't pay attention to shop work when those SN guys keep coming up with a new seasonal all the time.

*JMP* - Thanks for the encouragement. I can see the finish line.

*Phil* - I concur. What I didn't say is that I stopped working in the shop today because I actually tried to template rout a spline using the test piece as the pattern. *That was a big mistake!* I use high quality Whiteside bits and it started chattering immediately. Then the ebony split and a piece went flying across the room. I never did find it. It pissed me off so much I decided to stop for the day  Now I'll be thinking about what to try next. After that I am really nervous about routing those things in place too. No mistakes allowed after the glue sets up (although I suppose you could cut them out again with the slot cutter).


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## JoeLyddon (Apr 22, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Scott, I sure like the way you work!

No RUSH, no pain!

It's worth every bit of delay in order to think things out now & then. You do it SO WELL!

Thank you for your update!


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## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Scott :
Nice work.. time and patience is a virtue and not to be squandered.
I have still some ebony plugs to place in my desk and Gamble entry table..
Bruce.. ex from Chico


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Looking good. Are you following techniques from the Peart book?


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## gad5264 (Sep 13, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Scott, that is a very nice looking piece.


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## pjaromin (Nov 28, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Looking good…thanks for the detail pics.


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## bfd (Dec 23, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Scott,

Was just wondering the other day how you were coming on these. Looks likes patience is paying off. These night stands are just incredible. Your attention to detail is first rate and your craftmanship is effident everywhere you look in the details. Keep it up and cannot wait to see these when they are finished.


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## blackcherry (Dec 7, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Scott thanks for the post and the inspiration to take on a Greene & Greene project in the near future. I also found in my studies of these piece a very orginal finish if your interested email me and I send it on….thank again Blkcherry


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## danr (Sep 5, 2009)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Scott,

I just found your project and it is exactly what I have been looking for regarding the making of the top. I really appreciate it. I have one question on how you constructed the top. How did you attatch the ebony splines that go on the edge between the core and the the bread-board ends? I have never worked with ebony before.

Thanks,
Dan


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Nice work enjoyed your blog.


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## Casper (Jul 23, 2009)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Scott,

Just fantastic… Question for you regarding your breadboard ends. How did you address wood movement with respect to your screw holes? Did you elongate them? And of course, do you have pics? I wanted to use breadboard ends in my next project and like your approach, I was just curious about the screw holes.

Thank you,
Dennis


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Thanks Casper,

The holes are not elongated but they are oversized on the breadboard end. The screws have washers so they won't pull through the oversized holes. Of course the spline has a gap where the screws pass through. I glued about three inches in the center and left the ends to float. That way the end will stay centered. These three items allow the field to move without issues while keeping the end centered.

BTW, I have made breadboard ends a couple of different ways. This is the first time I have used screws. the last time I pinned them through with dowels. That keeps the connector hidden if you arent using splines (as in a greene and greene detail).

HTH


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Hi Danr,

The splines are simply glued to the field side. There is no glue on the breadboard end. This allows the splines to move with the top and float in the breadboard slot.

You can find the details in Darrell Peart's book "Greene & Greene : Design Elements for the Woodshop"

http://www.furnituremaker.com/purchase.htm

I might also suggest you look around his web page. He does nice work in this style.

http://www.furnituremaker.com/

HTH


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## Vincent (Mar 10, 2009)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Ball Catches, Trim parts and making the top*
> 
> Well this project is taking *WAY* longer than I had anticipated but I am still enjoying it.
> 
> ...


Very nice! Can't wait to see the finished piece.


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

*Top finished and Mounting Drawer Runners and Kickers*

I'm getting ready to finally wrap this up. I finished the tops and made Drawer runners and kickers.



Here is a jpg of the top from the sketchup model.



I milled up the kickers then glued and screwed them to the sides of the case. I also drilled holes for mounting the top.



I made some drawer runners and screwed them to the drawer member. The front of the runner is dadoed into the front of the drawer with a half lap. Note the taper on the front of the slot for easy insertion.



Here is the sliding member screwed to the dust frame. I made the holes a little big so I could adjust the drawers.







And some front and back shots.

Now for handles and finishing.


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## sbryan55 (Dec 8, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Top finished and Mounting Drawer Runners and Kickers*
> 
> I'm getting ready to finally wrap this up. I finished the tops and made Drawer runners and kickers.
> 
> ...


Scott, this has been fun following the project as a blog series but I am sure that you will be glad when this project is completed. This is the stage that I generally feel the adrenaline start building and want to focus almost exclusively on the project just to finally get it done.


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## Moai (Feb 9, 2009)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Top finished and Mounting Drawer Runners and Kickers*
> 
> I'm getting ready to finally wrap this up. I finished the tops and made Drawer runners and kickers.
> 
> ...


look beautiful!


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## abie (Jan 28, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Top finished and Mounting Drawer Runners and Kickers*
> 
> I'm getting ready to finally wrap this up. I finished the tops and made Drawer runners and kickers.
> 
> ...


Nicely done..
will be in Chico for my 50th High school reunion in Sept.
I will attempt to look you up
BT


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## matt1970 (Mar 28, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Top finished and Mounting Drawer Runners and Kickers*
> 
> I'm getting ready to finally wrap this up. I finished the tops and made Drawer runners and kickers.
> 
> ...


AMAZING…sorry i have not followed lately…but now i need to go back!!!


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## stanley2 (Jan 4, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Top finished and Mounting Drawer Runners and Kickers*
> 
> I'm getting ready to finally wrap this up. I finished the tops and made Drawer runners and kickers.
> 
> ...


Sscott - true to from and looking great. Looking forward to the finishing blog.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Top finished and Mounting Drawer Runners and Kickers*
> 
> I'm getting ready to finally wrap this up. I finished the tops and made Drawer runners and kickers.
> 
> ...


Hey Scott
I really like the Greene n Greene style well done. Once the finish is applied that will make them even more outstanding. I wish I had a better understanding of sketchup. your sketch is good too.

Jim


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Top finished and Mounting Drawer Runners and Kickers*
> 
> I'm getting ready to finally wrap this up. I finished the tops and made Drawer runners and kickers.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys.

*Scott* - I will be glad when this project is done. I have been very busy this winter. The pulls will probably take me some time though.

*Abi* - Shoot me a note when you come to Chico. We'll figure out something to do.

*Matt* - There has been nothing to follow LOL

*Stanley* - Thanks. I'll be looking you up for some ideas for lamps or lanterns to set on these at some point.

*Jim* - Thanks. The style is all about details. It is very difficult to get the proportions right and not over do it. There are a *LOT* of details in this piece and I tried to get each one as perfect as I am able.


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## gizmodyne (Mar 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Top finished and Mounting Drawer Runners and Kickers*
> 
> I'm getting ready to finally wrap this up. I finished the tops and made Drawer runners and kickers.
> 
> ...


Very nice. These are going to be amazing. How are you finishing them. A little green tint perhaps?


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## PurpLev (May 30, 2008)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Top finished and Mounting Drawer Runners and Kickers*
> 
> I'm getting ready to finally wrap this up. I finished the tops and made Drawer runners and kickers.
> 
> ...


wow, looks fantastic! I'm usually not a big greene fan, but this one is elegant, and has a nice touch to it.


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## rob2 (Nov 27, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Top finished and Mounting Drawer Runners and Kickers*
> 
> I'm getting ready to finally wrap this up. I finished the tops and made Drawer runners and kickers.
> 
> ...


Very nice. Excellent workmanship. Wow!!


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## ChicoWoodnut (Dec 15, 2007)

ChicoWoodnut said:


> *Top finished and Mounting Drawer Runners and Kickers*
> 
> I'm getting ready to finally wrap this up. I finished the tops and made Drawer runners and kickers.
> 
> ...


Hi Danr,

The splines are simply glued to the field side. There is no glue on the breadboard end. This allows the splines to move with the top and float in the breadboard slot.

You can find the details in Darrell Peart's book "Greene & Greene : Design Elements for the Woodshop"

http://www.furnituremaker.com/purchase.htm

I might also suggest you look around his web page. He does nice work in this style.

http://www.furnituremaker.com/

HTH


----------

