# Best finish for spraying? Water-based poly? NC Lacquer?



## awsimons (Apr 26, 2009)

LOML was sweet enough to buy me an HVLP system for my birthday. Up to this point, I've wiped on arm r seal and had good results. I would love to speed up the finishing process (a day instead of a week) but still have a durable surface. What specific products would you suggest and where can I buy them? Thanks!

Alan


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## MarioF (Feb 6, 2009)

Sounds like lacquer to me, get aquainted with it, run a few tests, get a good solvent filter mask and get ready for one day finishes


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## awsimons (Apr 26, 2009)

I know Arm R Seal adds an amber color to raw wood and I've heard people complain that water based poly does not. Does lacquer add an amber color like the oil based varnishes? Thanks!

Alan


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## stevenhsieh (Jan 8, 2010)

Lacquer and oil base varnish will yellow over time. If you do not, then use water based poly.


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## UncleFester (Dec 9, 2006)

Since I have a basement shop, I only spray Target 6000 water base lacquer with great results.


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal Coat adds an amber color ,and pops the grain,then you can use fast drying water based poly , and it looks great 
If you use water based poly, with out something like this under it, IMO it looks like crap
This is dewaxed shellac
Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat use.
http://lumberjocks.com/bubinga/blog/22622


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## TJU (Feb 16, 2011)

I love to spray minwax and general finishes water born poly acrylic finishes. If you have a membership to FWW here is a good article. http://www.finewoodworking.com/Materials/MaterialsPDF.aspx?id=27123
I thinkd that general finishes sprayes better but I have to drive 20 min. to pick it up so I don't always use it. It is realy easy to add a slight yellow or brown (or any) color to the finish you like. If you add too much color it does make it harder to repair if you are finishing something like a table top. I started using it because I was doing a lot of clear maple projects and I didn't like the yellowing effect of oil based products.

The thing I like the best is how fast it dries. I can put on several coats in one day with sanding in between. It does take a few weeks to fully cure.

The down side is the grain raising but if you are going to sand between coats anyway it's not any more work. I usually put on 3-4 coats.

If you are interested in all my steps and how I mix in the color just let me know and I can post it.

Tim


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## mnguy (Feb 4, 2009)

Water based poly designed for spraying from Target Coatings, ML Campbell, etc., are easy to spray, easy to clean up, and very durable. With moderate temps and humidity, you can easily do multiple coats in a day. They are pretty much water white, so you'll need to do something else for color.


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## bubinga (Feb 5, 2011)

TJU

Thanks for pointing me to the article I am a member


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## Domer (Mar 8, 2009)

Is there a good book or DVS that covers spray finishing?

Charles Neal has a series of DVD's. Has anyone seen it.

Domer


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## DLCW (Feb 18, 2011)

Post catalyzed conversion varnish is a great, durable finish. It provides a slight warm amber tone and I've not had any problems with yellowing. I use ML Campbell Duravar on just about everything except really high-end hand rubbed furniture. The conversion varnish is a burn-in finish (like lacquer) and you can easily apply 3 coats to both sides of a part in about 4 hours elapsed time. It is advisable to spray on horizontal parts as you get a good even flow and great leveling. Don't go with more then 3 coats or you can get crackling in the finish. Cleanup is with lacquer thinner.

HVLP is the best way to apply this finish.


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## BillWhite (Jul 23, 2007)

You did not tell us about the spray environment. Indoors /outdoors, what? If you're usin' NC lacquer, you'd better have a way to protect from the big boom when all those fumes build up and somebody flips a light switch.
NC laq is a sweet finish, poly is for gym floors and bar tops, conversion varnish is bullet proof.
Bill


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## miles125 (Jun 8, 2007)

Lacquer wins hands down.


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## TJU (Feb 16, 2011)

Lacquer is an all around better finish but when you have to spray your projects by the window in your shop Lacquer is not always the better choice. If I had a spray booth with good ventilation I would use more lacquer, but it's not even an option for me in the winter when its 20 deg. outside. Water based poly is also easier to clean up. Sometime you sacrifice what is better for what is more convenient (and just because it's convenient doesn't mean it's not good). If I had a good spray booth with good ventilation I would use more lacquer.

Tim


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## awsimons (Apr 26, 2009)

You guys are amazing! Thanks for the great responses! My shop is a two car attached garage. I was thinking of spraying with the garage door open, maybe with a tarp hanging to make a three sided booth and spraying from outside. Possible? 
Thanks!


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I'm not an accomplished sprayer but I'd echo Cessna's concerns. I've had rags spontaneously burst into flames. If anyone thinks this is legend, I'll gladly share the details


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## TheOldTimer (Dec 13, 2009)

Hi Alan: During mycareer I breathed more toxic chemicals that I want to admit too. That said, I only spray water based finishes. In addition, I put out more garage and house fires caused by oil soaked rags then I can remember.

I agree with bubinga on the use of seal coat as a primer. I do not finish anything without a 1lb. cut of shallac as a sealer. You can also use TransTint dyes to tone your water base finishes to get effective results. I know that a lot of guys swear on lacquor and oil base finishes and that is OK. I prefer the water base due to safety concerns and I no longer want to subject my lungs to more toxins. Yes, you wear a mask but the stuff lingers in the air until dry. You want to wear a good mask when spraying water base material as well. We are approaching the day when oil base finishes will be a thing of the past due to regulations.


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## peteg (Sep 2, 2010)

Thanks for raising a great topic Alan, I do a bit of mucking about with air brush, but have been looking at having a go with a HVLP set up but didnt quite know where to start.
I like the idea of the water based finishes from a safety angle (& health)
Great to get ideas from so many experenced LJ's.
Thanks from the "sideline"


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