# Finish suggestions for a dining room tabletop



## HeirloomWoodworking

I wonder if I could get some feedback from my fellow wood crafters regarding the proper and correct finishing product (clear coat over stain to match the cabinetry) to use on my next project.

Currently making plans and gathering materials for a double pedestal dining room table in red oak. The base top will be 1" x 42" x 60" with 3 - 12" leaves, making the completely extended top 42" x 96".

The queen and I are still in the kid raising business so I want to give the top a quality finish that will wear well. (Ok it is probably not the kids that are hard on the table…I am mostly to blame).

Lately I have been finishing most of my furniture with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal, and I have really grown to like how it applies and finishes. I am unsure if it is the right product to use on a everyday table top. I will call their tech support for their suggestions, but I was wondering what you other crafters prefer to use on this type of application.

Thanks in advance for your input.

Trevor Premer
Heirloom Woodworking


----------



## lechevaldebois

On table tops, I like using tung oil as a base then 8 to 10 thin coats of Minwax wipe-on varnish, scuff-sanding (320 grit) every 2 coats. Then polish with natural beeswax.


----------



## ND2ELK

Hi Trev

Laminate with wood trim is the best kid proof top. I have always used 2 coats of poly urethane and wax on my solid tops. You can sand and refinish after there older. Then theres the grand kids!

Tom


----------



## GaryK

Polyurethane. It's water proof and as Tom said, it's easy to sand and add another coat later.

You can repair it at any time.

If you want a satin finish just put that on last. Use a couple of coats high gloss under it because it's
tougher.


----------



## sbryan55

I prefer to use poly for table tops like this. It is going to take a beating and liquid spills on it. Poly stands to a lot of abuse and is easy to repair.


----------



## HeirloomWoodworking

Thanks for the advice men.

I should not be as hard on the new table as I was on the old one. Now that I have heat in my shop, I won't have to clean fish, grind venison or use the Queens table as a woodworking bench. Voice from the family room…"Can you please only bang on that %$#& chisel during commercials".

Trev


----------



## Tangle

Trev,
I use wipe on Poly that I mix 75% gloss and 15% mineral spirits. I usually seal with a coat of Bullseye shellac and then scuff sand between coats. Use lots of coats and then you can control the gloss with buffing and wax. I use the gloss because you do not need to stir it which raises bubbles.


----------



## Greg3G

Trev, I have done a few tables in the recent past and I find that by using a wipe on poly I can buld up the finsih pretty quickly. I lay on very thin coats and they only take about 15 minutes to dry. I then run my hand over the surface to check for dust nibs and if there only a few, I lay on another coat. When I do feel more, I will quickly knock them down with 400 grit. Once I get the finish built up enough, I will then rub it out with 600 up to 1200 wet sanding. That will take care of the rest of dust nibbs and will remove any ridges in the finish. When that is done, I move to my buffer, with a quick run of automotive rubbing compound followed by a couple of very thin coats of wax. That will leave me with a very high gloss finish. If i want a satin finish, I skip the rubbing compound and hand apply the wax. It doesn't take as long as it sounds. I can ususally finish a table top in about 3 or 4 eveings.


----------



## Dadoo

I use Poly. It was designed for wooden flooring so it's designed to be tough. Let each coat dry hard (at least 24 hours) then power sand with 220 grit to remove the "nubs". Your topcoat won't get sanded of course and it will be as smooth as glass. I usually go just two coats but more will protect more. Satin seems to look best and hides minor scratches, but gloss will make your project glow in the dark! And like Gary said, "It's easy to repair."


----------



## tenontim

When my kid was home, I made tables with a plexiglass table cover ;]


----------



## wooddon

General Finishec Arm.R .seal


----------



## rikkor

I'd suggest the polyurethane, as well. Best water protection.


----------



## snowman1

I finished my Red Oak dining room table a few years back and I have fish eyes in it where the dark oak grain is. I was thinking on using Tung oil to refinish it. Any advice? JIM


----------



## LeeBarker

Are you planning to use a filler to get the oak smooth and flat first? It's something to consider.

I support the poly guys. As a general rule, if you are within the mfr's window, you don't need to sand between coats, but usually if you let it go past a certain point, then you've got to scuff it for a mechanical bond because it's hard enough the new stuff can't cut back into the existing surface. Check the label for this.

WB poly dries a lot faster than solvent based. It's not quite as hard a finish, but it sounds like a logical candidate for your particular situation.

And here's something I've never seen mentioned on LJ: STRAIN YOUR MATERIAL BEFORE EACH APPLICATION. Those little conical sieves are real cheap, and if you strain EVERY TIME you'll be amazed at how much less you have to fuss with nibbies and nubbies.

Kindly,

Lee


----------



## HeirloomWoodworking

Yes Lee I agree with your suggestion for grain filler. I did not use filler on my table top and you can deffinately feel a slight grain ripple in the finish on my finished top. Live and learn.

I used Arm-R-Seal and I am very very satisfied with the durability of the top after a couple of years of usage in our home.


I have also used the straining trick on several projects and I strongly reccommend it as well….another tool added to my finishing learning curve.

Snowman, how was your top originally finished? Are the fish-eyes under the top coat? are you intending to sand the surface down and start anew? If possible post some pictures and the folks here are Lumberjocks will help you.

Thanks for the comments.

Trevor


----------



## Earlextech

Spray your poly for an incredibly even coat.


----------

