# Laundry hamper



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Introduction and doors*

I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.

So I made a sketch (four squares to a foot for the bigger drawings, so each square is three inches, four squares to an inch for the profile of the sticks). The lower left shows the side view, the right shows the front of a door, and the upper left shows the profile of the door frame. My #10 round isn't holding the blade well, so rather than making a curve in that profile, I'll make a flat.










Got started yesterday. Took a board of 4/4 ash from the stash and planed the flat sides flat, plus one edge. It was about 30" long, with a waney edge, but I figure I can get all four sticks for one door frame from it. After getting the long edge squared, I marked a line 1½" from that edge, and sawed off the stick with the bandsaw. Then quickly planed the two edges I'd just cut flat. Lather, rinse, repeat until I had two 30 inch sticks a two shorter (15 and 21 inch) sticks.










I used the combination plane to put a ¼" wide groove down the "inside" edge of each stick, then marked lines ¼ and ½ inch from the front inside corner and used a rabbet plane to take off the corner down to the lines.










I think that's going to be it for today. I cracked one of the sticks while clamping it in the twin-screw vise to put the beveled corner on, so it was time to get out of the shop and not make things worse.

Tomorrow I'll start making the slats to go within the doors, or maybe start making the frame for the second door. I've got a few reasons to want to do the doors first. One is that they'll be the trickiest bit, so I'd like to get them done. Second, I need to know the weight of the doors in order to know which of the Sugatsune HDS-10S closers I need to buy. I figure the doors will be drop-fronts, so I can easily pull out a basket full of dirty clothes to take it to the washer.

More to follow…


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> So I made a sketch (four squares….
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You gotta get into SketchUp (or similar)... Ideal for quick dirties, easily modified, can be shared and the file will be long available after that scrap paper becomes land fill.

And don't use that argument that it's too hard… you don't need the level for developing the next spaceship for Mars.
Basic sketches can be mastered in a few hours and stick to 2D… then you can get cocky and add that extra 1D.

Think of it this way… *You have to get books and read, to familiarise with SketchUp!*


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


IT'S TOO HARD DUCK ! sketchup is for girls.mine are all drawn on a cocktail napkin because thats what i always have handy.
nice start dave.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> IT S TOO HARD DUCK ! ...
> - pottz


Leave your cocktaits out of this.

Your *Maloof Rocker* was probably hard, however, dare i say, you didn't girlie out of that. New tricks can be *beaten* into *old dogs*... and I don't mind being a girl… love my nightie.

Sorry for the digression *DP*... that *pottzy* likes to speak his mind… the one he forgot he left at home.


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


I'm not going to pick sides here Dave, but will say my personal preference is the quadrille paper, or 4 squares to an inch, that you used. It's fast and I mainly use it to determine cutting dimensions. By the time I'd learn AutoCAD or Sketchup, I'd be too old to do the woodworking.
Looks like you're off to a good start.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


I go to the shop to get away from computers, Ducky.

Life's too short. I'll use paper. When it's wrong, I can set it on fire.

Pottz, it's not too hard. But I strongly prefer paper.

Thanks, Tom. I may end up with tweaks to the design, but that's what erasers are for.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


not that im totally againts sketchup i just dont do much in the way of drawings period.at most i do a simple sketch showing dimensions and the rest is in my head.the way ive always done it,seems to work for me.although ill admit id probably eliminate a lot of mistakes if i did.but what fun would that be-lol.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> not that im totally againts sketchup …


I just feel that I'm remiss if I didn't review/suggest more modern techniques to some of our aged LJ members (no implies here *DP*)...

If it wasn't for upgrades, we'd all be using that *B&D Orange Drill*, with just a tad of runout, to make that 1/8"... sorry, 3/16"... oops again, 1/4"... 5/16"... damn, 1/2"... sound better in metric.

Next I'll be reprimanded for *NOT selfishly asking* my 2B wife,









if she had *strong* hair!

Move to *SketchUP* is nearly as easy a transition as a *western* saw upgrade to a *Jap Saw*.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> Life's too short. I'll use paper. When it's wrong, I can *set it on fire*.
> - Dave Polaschek


May you be protected form the greenies and *Greta Thunberg*... life may just get shorter!


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> not that im totally againts sketchup …
> 
> I just feel that I m remiss if I didn t review/suggest more modern techniques to some of our aged LJ members (no implies here *DP*)...
> 
> ...


oh jeez (eye's rolling)


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> Life's too short. I'll use paper. When it's wrong, I can *set it on fire*.
> - Dave Polaschek
> 
> May you be protected form the greenies and *Greta Thunberg*... life may just get shorter!
> ...


forget about greta she got a spanking and was sent to bed !


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


No, Ducky, I'd be using my Ixion drill that I refurbished.

Sketchup, or switching to a Japanese saw would be a step backwards.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> No, Ducky, I'd be using my Ixion drill that I refurbished.
> 
> Sketchup, or switching to a Japanese saw would be a step backwards.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


nice restoration dave,she looks like new again.


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


Dave, This load of dirty washing has gone off the rails for sure.

Me, I'm a pencil and paper bloke!

New things on the computer do my head in, but saying that so does reading plans.

I hope you can get this project sorted quickly satisfying all of them above with a first class result.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> Dave, This load of dirty washing has gone off the rails for sure.
> 
> Me, I'm a pencil and paper bloke!
> 
> ...


*crowie*, it pleasant to hear that there are members here at LJ that joined before the advent of computers.

As for the laundry,









I believe *rc* already has that dirty linen (un)covered,


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Pottz.

Thanks, Peter. I don't hold much hope, especially as I don't generally make plans, and I have a number of interruptions at home in the next few weeks. I almost wish we had a lockdown so I could concentrate on my work in the shop. Or perhaps I could get a supervisor like yours to keep the interruptions at bay. Part of why I sketched plans at all is that I knew I would be interrupted and this way I don't have to go back and measure the laundry basket every time I forget how big things need to be.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


This is interesting Dave. Ours is over 40 years old and we got it as a wedding shower gift. I asked my wife many years ago to make a new one and she said don't you dare. I'll have to see the finished product.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave! I'll try to keep up with the building process as I go.


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


I guess you could say I enjoy SketchUp myself…....


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## recycle1943 (Dec 16, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


free note pads from all of the people begging for money and a pencil = sketchup


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


That's about where I'm heading LeeRoyMan. Haven't decided on the exact pattern of the lattice yet, though. And see part 2 for the modified profile of the edges (I added a bead).

Something like that, Dick. I've also been milling the pine and poplar for drawers for various tills whenever I need a break from working ash by hand. I think I've got half of the drawer sides and backs done for the boring tools till. Those will get faced with some pretty elm as practice for all the little drawers that will get made with wormy chestnut fronts.


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## recycle1943 (Dec 16, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> That's about where I'm heading LeeRoyMan. Haven't decided on the exact pattern of the lattice yet, though. And see part 2 for the modified profile of the edges (I added a bead).
> 
> Something like that, Dick. I've also been milling the pine and poplar for drawers for various tills whenever I need a break from working ash by hand. I think I've got half of the drawer sides and backs done for the boring tools till. Those will get faced with some pretty elm as practice for all the little drawers that will get made with wormy chestnut fronts.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


I'm looking forward to seeing that Dave


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


speaking of having it covered did you hotties spot this?

Chatrooms in the pulse page


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## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> I guess you could say I enjoy SketchUp myself…....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Your are pretty good at Sketch Up LeeRoy. 
What's the space between the slats and the space at the top and bottom of them. That's where the measuring counts.

Dave I still like your drawing.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


*JEMI*, the measurements are available from...

It's the quick or the dead… only best PC free version is 2017, but it's 64bit… for a sniff of your vino I might be able to track down a 2026 (32 bit) version.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


Thanks, James. I'm not sure of the exact measurements, since I haven't finished cutting the slats. But they'll get spaced evenly using dividers.


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## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> *JEMI*, the measurements are available from...
> 
> It s the quick or the dead… only best PC free version is 2017, but it s 64bit… for a sniff of your vino I might be able to track down a 2026 (32 bit) version.
> 
> - LittleBlackDuck


Thanks Duck. I followed your link and it ask me for some credentials. I don't have any so they wouldn't let me in. 
What kind of PC are talking about here Politically Correct ones or personal computers?

Like Rodney Dangerfield said, they'll call me when I get some class.


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## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> I guess you could say I enjoy SketchUp myself…....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks James, 
I didn't save the drawing to double check, 
but from memory, the inside spaces were 2" x 2" and the outsides were 1" + 1/8" to go into the dado.


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## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> Thanks, James. I'm not sure of the exact measurements, since I haven't finished cutting the slats. But they'll get spaced evenly using dividers.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


With the design you created and are building that's going to be one cool laundry hamper. I may copy it with a A&C twist.

It would be nice if you could make the slates from mesquite. It would give it a southwest flavor.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


Thanks. It should be good looking, and making an A&C version would mean less faffing about profiling various sticks.

For me, the two design constraints were that it had to hold two plastic laundry baskets, and be less than 2 feet wide so it'll fit between my bookcases and dresser. The third constraint is that it be high enough that I can get the baskets out without having to bend too far.

Not sure what I'll be doing with the empty space below the lower basket yet. Might leave that open, or might put another lattice over that. Remains to be seen…

As for making slats from mesquite, I don't have a good source of mesquite yet, and I have no familiarity with how it works (yet), so that's for a future project.


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## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> Thanks. It should be good looking, and making an A&C version would mean less faffing about profiling various sticks.
> 
> For me, the two design constraints were that it had to hold two plastic laundry baskets, and be less than 2 feet wide so it'll fit between my bookcases and dresser. The third constraint is that it be high enough that I can get the baskets out without having to bend too far.
> 
> ...


 I was thinking to just add a door at the bottom and pull the laundry from the bottom. First in first out, as we say in business. Lol

I'm not the type of guy who would like to organize dirty laundry in bens, but you're slat ventilation is ingenuousness
Or maybe your sorting colors which is a good idea.


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## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> *JEMI*, the measurements are available from...
> 
> It s the quick or the dead… only best PC free version is 2017, but it s 64bit… for a sniff of your vino I might be able to track down a 2026 (32 bit) version.
> 
> ...


No idea why the link failed. You might have to "register" to permit downloads.

Hope I'm not breaching copyrights, I have uploaded the free versions to my cloud storage.

I meant *last PC* not *best*! Auto correction has steered me off roads far too often (not DUI).


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> I was thinking to just add a door at the bottom and pull the laundry from the bottom. First in first out, as we say in business. Lol
> I'm not the type of guy who would like to organize dirty laundry in bens, but you're slat ventilation is ingenuousness
> Or maybe your sorting colors which is a good idea.


I actually sort by "needs fabric softener" vs. not. Which is weird, but everything I own is now colorfast. And it means I can throw the bright red kitchen towels in with my underwear and my sweetie gasps in shock, which can be amusing.

But yeah, I sort things into two groups. My sweetie puts all of her things in one bin, and then sorts them in the laundry room when she's doing laundry, which is always three or four loads. I just do a load of whatever basket is full, which fills the washer just about perfectly.

It's a little weird that we each do our own laundry, but that's the way it is. Given that we were just about 50 when we got together, we're both kinda set in our ways.


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## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> I was thinking to just add a door at the bottom and pull the laundry from the bottom. First in first out, as we say in business. Lol
> I'm not the type of guy who would like to organize dirty laundry in bens, but you're slat ventilation is ingenuousness
> Or maybe your sorting colors which is a good idea.
> 
> ...


Your a better man than I Dave. I have to ask my wife how to use the washer. Lol


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


Well, I started doing all my own laundry when I was 13 or 14. Things haven't changed all that much.


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> Well, I started doing all my own laundry when I was 13 or 14. Things haven't changed all that much.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


Dave, I learnt to do it in the Navy and if it wasn't done correctly, it was big trouble!


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


Imagine a red towel in with the whites there would've been catastrophic rather than just embarrassing, Peter. ;-)


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...





> Imagine a red towel in with the whites there would've been catastrophic rather than just embarrassing, Peter. ;-)
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


All blues and whites; if it was red it was blood!


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


So mixups would lead to pretty sky-blue whites?


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


Nice start on the hamper ,Dave. That reminds me that I made a hamper before I found Lumberjocks and it is made out of scraps of red oak from this place I passed every day going and coming home from work. I stopped in a few times and filled my wagon to the ceiling with oak and walnut…dried and planed and cut off the bunks they loaded on semi trailers. Some pieces were 4 ft long!

I too am a manual sketchup draftsman. I am from the last century and still have a flip phone if that tells you anything. With a pencil and paper I can design anywhere and work from the drawing to cutting wood right away. The computer sketchup has a lot of advantages that I feel I don't need or want to spend the time to learn…it is like bluetooth in the new cars. I have no need for it, but you have to pay for it.

Hey, Ducky, I'd sure rather have that gal from Fluff and Fold come over than use that computer driven washing machine!!

Dave, I'm like you. My wife has the laundry separated into 4 piles and I run them that way, but if it was just for me, I'd fill that puppy with all it would take and do it in one or two loads.

Cheers, Jim


----------



## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


When I get the time I'm going to read all this.

The half-life of hampers in our house is about 2 weeks. 5 kids and all their laundary are rough on them. Most recent one had 5 bag-like things hanging from rails like pendaflex folders. I told my wife (shouildn't have, of course) "every time we buy something like that, the kids break it right away". She was not encouranged nor probably enlightened or any such thing by my comments. She proceded to systematicaly load it with the children's dirty laudry (each of 5 children had his/her own compartment). It probaby was only 80-100 lbs at that point but parts of it broke (thin-wall steel tubing) before it rolled all the way to the laundry room.

So, we'll put those WEN casters on Dave's thing and maybe it will do.

.... if I get time to read all about it.

-Paul


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Introduction and doors*
> 
> I want to build a laundry hamper for the bedroom. I figure it'll be frame and panel construction, with doors with a lattice in them so the stinky clothes can breathe a little. And I want to build it around my existing plastic laundry baskets, which are just the right size for our washer and dryer.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Jim! I left some of the design issues until after I get the doors done, which has probably slowed my down, but the doors are going to fold down with self-closing closers on them. In order to pick the right ones, I need to know the moment of the door (in inch-pounds), which rather than trying to estimate, I figured I'd just build the doors and then measure them. I still remember enough calc to know that I can basically weigh the door, and assume that all of its weight is at a point halfway out. Not a completely accurate estimate, but close enough to get the right closer.

With two doors, there will be two compartments for the laundry. And my sweetie will be able to dust underneath it from the front, which will keep her happy.

Paul, I suspect with your herd, you'll need something with more compartments than just the two I'm planning on. But I designed around the plastic laundry baskets that I can get anywhere, which will live in each compartment for carrying the laundry down the hall to the washer. But replacing the empty space at the bottom with a third compartment, you could get all the kids taken care of with two hampers and stick casters on them.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Beads*

Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.










But I got the first stick done and am happy with it. The next three went pretty quickly after that.










With those four done, I think I'll smooth and cut the pieces for the second door next, while I still have the same beading setup in my combination plane. Guess I may need to get a second one if I end up doing more of this sort of thing.










You may also notice I didn't quite get all the way to the bottom with the beading blade. That's tough in ash, and three of my four sticks had the grain running the wrong way, so I'd get lots of tear-out. I may just finish up the sticks "backwards" with a gouge once I have them all done.


----------



## LeeRoyMan (Feb 23, 2019)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


Yeah, that ash is pretty hard. Routers for me. lol

One of the beauties of Sketchup, making changes without starting over or erasing and making a mess on your paper.
Not trying to talk you into SU, just playing, and showing some of the uses.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


Yeah. I get why people use routers. I figure I'm doing this as a hobby, and if it takes me a little longer, that's fine. Plus, it wasn't until I looked at the sticks this morning that I decided I needed the bead. Which meant that I'm definitely mitering the front of the corners of the frame, so I'll probably do half-lap joints with mitered fronts.

I get why folks use sketchup, but I also don't need to actually have everything drawn. I could see how the corners would need to come together without drawing anything. The main unanswered question I have left is whether I'm going to make the lattice slats ⅜" thick, and taper the ends and edges a little (so they'll fit into the ¼" grooves in the frame) or just make them ¼" thick out of the gate. I suspect I'll cut them all ⅜ thick when I'm milling the lumber, and then see how much planing I need to get everything smooth. But if they're only ¼ thick, I might not need to cut reliefs in the slats, and I could maybe just weave them. At ⅜" thick, I will definitely need to make cuts.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


lookin good dave i agree it's a hobby no rush needed,just enjoy the process.but im all for the router for something like this.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


I try to use molding planes, not always with success due to grain issues. One way to overcome that however, is to make & use a scratch stock. Scratch stocks work pretty good with or against the grain, and work well on curves. Once the iron is shaped, it's all downhill from there. I needed a bead on an oval arch and the scratch saved the day:


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Pottz. I figure my combo plane is fine for this. Biggest problem was getting the blade depth set right so it wasn't being too aggressive, but was still taking enough of a cut that I could follow the grooves with the plane. And a single quarter-inch bead is a fairly tough cut. When it's just the two edges cutting, it goes really easily, but when the full width of the curve starts cutting, it's a lot tougher.

Works like a depth-stop, I guess. I sure know when I'm down to that point.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


Yeah, Tom. Thanks! A scratch stock may be just the ticket to clean up the last of the bead. I'd rather get the nice clean finish I get with a plane, but as I mentioned in part 1, I've got at least one bum molding plane (my #10 has a tiny crack that prevents me from setting the wedge firmly enough to actually hold the blade when cutting ash). I think I'll still try to freehand the curve with a gouge, but if that doesn't work, a scratch-stock will be next on my go-to list.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


Dave, You did that with hand tools, hats off to you sir. 
That's a craftsman enjoying the working with wood for sure.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Peter! Sharp helps an awful lot with hand tools, plus paying attention to the grain (which I didn't do so well on these). The next set of four sides should go quicker.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


That's all you got done today? Sounds like you're retired or something. 
Progress is progress especially without power tools.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


Yeah, that was about two and a half hours this morning, Dave. I was hoping to get some time this afternoon, but had to go to the farmers market instead.

We also watered plants (an hour and change), went for a walk (an hour), took a nap (also an hour), and cooked dinner.










Retirement isn't half bad. ;-)


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


Dinner looks good, but I prefer that combination plane.
Nice work on the profiles.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Mads! I'm hoping the profiles can hide some of the smaller mistakes. ;-)


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


It's called charm, not mistakes. ;-)


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Beads*
> 
> Not a lot of progress today. I cut beads on the frame pieces for the door using the combination plane. Spent most of the morning fixing my sticking board so it could handle me beading ash.
> 
> ...


Ahh, yes. They will definitely be charming, my friend!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Slats and frame pieces for another door*

No pictures today, but I made pretty good progress.

First up, I used the bandsaw to cut the ash pieces for the frame of the second door. My chunk of 4/4 ash board had a knot in it, which I craftily placed near the 15" mark on the shorter (side) pieces, and if I cut the miter the right direction (or rather, if I put the grooves in the stick the right way), the knot will be in the waste. With those cut, I put in the bead first, then beveled the inner edge, since I had those planes set up and ready to go. The planing cuts for those are opposite directions, so one of the two will get some tear out, but it's easier to deal with tear out on the bevel, so I oriented the grain that way. I'll cut the groove for the slats tomorrow.

Next I fired up the bandsaw and used my resaw fence to cut a dozen 3/8" thick slices off the edge of a chunk of 11/4 walnut (pretty sure I paid for 12/4, but it isn't that thick - then again, I'm pretty sure I only paid for 8 feet of the 10 foot board because of a knot I just avoided with only a couple inches wasted by making the slats 12" long). With the kerf, that used up almost 6" of the 9" wide board, so I've got a slightly under 3" square by 12" long turning blank, maybe. Or maybe four 12" long 1½" diameter legs or something.

I also broke the bandsaw blade after the third slice, so I stopped to change the blade and clean out the bandsaw. Unwrapping the blade was only a three-bandaid job this time, so maybe I'm getting better?

Anyway, cutting the walnut this way meant my flat-sawn board got turned into smaller quartersawn boards. Not a huge deal with the walnut, but when I cut the oak tomorrow, I should see some good ray flecks.










I guess there is one picture. That's my resaw fence for the bandsaw. If everything is aligned perfectly, it'll give me a ⅜" thick slice. As life is seldom perfect, my slices vary down to 11/32, with one that's 5/16 on its thinner edge. I'll aim to get two 5/16×1x12½ slats from each slice after I plane them flat, so they'll need a tiny bit of taper on the ends to fit into the ¼ grooves in the frame. But they'll have enough thickness that where I overlap them with half-laps, I won't be cutting through too much of the slat.

This evening I set up the combination plane for a ¼" groove for the inside edges of today's sticks.










Tomorrow I can hopefully saw the oak slats out of my 10/4×10 piece of flat-sawn oak (there's a knot about 20" from one end, and I need 18½ long slats, so I should be in the clear), and start flattening and squaring them up.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats and frame pieces for another door*
> 
> No pictures today, but I made pretty good progress.
> 
> ...


Garden gloves or M/C gloves Dave plus helmet too (sometimes)

Plus have you mastered the process to fold them back up again?


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats and frame pieces for another door*
> 
> No pictures today, but I made pretty good progress.
> 
> ...


"Unwrapping the blade was only a three-bandaid job this time, " - It wouldn't be a day in the shop for me if I didn't need to apply a bandaid, the last three projects I worked on each have my DNA embedded in them somewhere.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats and frame pieces for another door*
> 
> No pictures today, but I made pretty good progress.
> 
> ...


Rob, I have gloves, but I was in a hurry, so didn't put them on. What's the worst that could happen? The only time a bandsaw blade has come off is broken, so I've never needed to fold one back up.

Tom, I've been getting better with all the hand tools. Keeping them sharper means fewer cuts for me. I think I've had more cuts from sharp arrises on ash lately than from the tools. At least until yesterday's blade change.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Sunday morning slats*

Today was all about the slats to go in the two doors.

I started by slicing off eight boards from the oak. Turns out making 20" long cuts through 3 inch thick, well-seasoned oak, even with a bandsaw with a resaw blade on it, is a lot like real work. I had to take a break every three cuts and step outside to unmask and dry off.



















With those done, I cut each of them into thirds, to give me three slats, all just about an inch wide.










Then I planed the edges and faces smooth with my jack plane set fine-ish, ending with just under an inch wide, but just about ⅜ inch thick. I could've used my smoother, but it's set up for smoothing pine and needs a good sharpening before I'll get a nice finish in oak with it. I've got a new, spare, factory-flat blade for the jack plane, so swapping that in got me ready to go quickest.



















Lather, rinse, repeat until I have all six done.










As I guessed, there's some nice rays showing in my now quarter-sawn oak.

Then do the same with the walnut, though I only get two slats from each board of that. I'm sure I'll find a use for the scraps










And I suspect that's going to do it for today. Planing the oak was hard work. If I do head back out to the shop, it'll probably be to build a jig for cutting the half-laps in the slats. I've got an idea of how I'll do that, so I might try to get that done yet today. We'll see how things go after I get laundry folded, eat some lunch, and take a nap.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Sunday morning slats*
> 
> Today was all about the slats to go in the two doors.
> 
> ...


nice progress dave.rockler makes a little jig for making perfect half laps,i bought one a few years ago,still havn't used it so no review.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Sunday morning slats*
> 
> Today was all about the slats to go in the two doors.
> 
> ...


That the one that needs a table saw to work, Pottz? I suspect that would make it a touch expensive.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Sunday morning slats*
> 
> Today was all about the slats to go in the two doors.
> 
> ...





















ive got the dado stop kit.both need a tablesaw.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Sunday morning slats*
> 
> Today was all about the slats to go in the two doors.
> 
> ...


Yeah. Adding the cost of a table saw to the equation would make either of them pretty expensive.

I decided before I started woodworking that a table saw wasn't in my future. I *might* buy an RAS at some point if I can't crosscut things by hand any more, but for now, I can mill things on the bandsaw if I'm in a hurry and then make the shop quiet.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Sunday morning slats*
> 
> Today was all about the slats to go in the two doors.
> 
> ...





> Yeah. Adding the cost of a table saw to the equation would make either of them pretty expensive.
> 
> I decided before I started woodworking that a table saw wasn't in my future. I *might* buy an RAS at some point if I can't crosscut things by hand any more, but for now, I can mill things on the bandsaw if I'm in a hurry and then make the shop quiet.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


NO TABLESAW!!!! are you a caveman dave ?


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Sunday morning slats*
> 
> Today was all about the slats to go in the two doors.
> 
> ...


Yes. Won't have one. My sweetie had a contractor table saw we gave away. Wouldn't even turn the thing on.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Sunday morning slats*
> 
> Today was all about the slats to go in the two doors.
> 
> ...





> Yes. Won't have one. My sweetie had a contractor table saw we gave away. Wouldn't even turn the thing on.
> 
> - Dave Polaschek


hey i thought i knew you,i gotta take some time and reflect on this bud.this is a game changer!!!!wow,gotta catch my breath!!!


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Sunday morning slats*
> 
> Today was all about the slats to go in the two doors.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a lot of sweat cutting those slats Dave. Better get some cooler air and fans in there. Coming along fine.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Sunday morning slats*
> 
> Today was all about the slats to go in the two doors.
> 
> ...


Progress look good, great work resawing the slats. As for the half lap joints, how about a router?


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Sunday morning slats*
> 
> Today was all about the slats to go in the two doors.
> 
> ...


I have a mini-split in the shop, Dave. And it was running. But wearing the respirator and earmuffs means I'm covered up so frequent breaks are a good thing.

Tom, I'm thinking saw and chisel. My router is a Stanley 71. ;-)

Probably I'll build a little jig so I've got something like a depth-stop for the saw cuts and can hold the slat solidly while I chisel out the waste.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Slats, part 2*

Today was another short day. I had to dig out a chamisa root before I got started in the shop so I got a late start and was already tired. But I cut a dozen more walnut slats (only 10 survived, due to an internal check in the wood) and a half dozen more oak slats. That should be enough for both doors, and maybe enough to put slats in the bottom of the cabinet, if I decide to do that. Prepping wood with mostly hand tools, I tend to make spares….

Anyway, after ripping them on the bandsaw, it was back to the jack plane. On the walnut it took about four-six passes on each edge with the plane to get them smooth and straight. Then about the same on each of the faces. So 40-some edges and faces, times an average of five passes… that's a pretty good workout.










Then the oak. Six slats, edges, faces, about 8-10 passes on each, since I have to take thinner shavings in the oak…

Add it all up, and it's about 500 passes with the 5.5 lb (2.5kg) jack plane. They're short enough that I'd guess on half of them I was doing it with arms only, and about half I was using my legs a bit. In any case, that's enough until after lunch and a nap.










I think next up is cutting all the slats to the proper lengths and then tapering the ends and edges of them so they'll fit into the grooves in the frames.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, part 2*
> 
> Today was another short day. I had to dig out a chamisa root before I got started in the shop so I got a late start and was already tired. But I cut a dozen more walnut slats (only 10 survived, due to an internal check in the wood) and a half dozen more oak slats. That should be enough for both doors, and maybe enough to put slats in the bottom of the cabinet, if I decide to do that. Prepping wood with mostly hand tools, I tend to make spares….
> 
> ...


table saw and a jointer dave and youd still be rarin to go !


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, part 2*
> 
> Today was another short day. I had to dig out a chamisa root before I got started in the shop so I got a late start and was already tired. But I cut a dozen more walnut slats (only 10 survived, due to an internal check in the wood) and a half dozen more oak slats. That should be enough for both doors, and maybe enough to put slats in the bottom of the cabinet, if I decide to do that. Prepping wood with mostly hand tools, I tend to make spares….
> 
> ...


But my ears would be ringing and the shop would be full of dust and I'd be crabby. Or I wouldn't have room to turn around. Besides, it's not a race; it's a way of spending my time.


----------



## oldrivers (Feb 10, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, part 2*
> 
> Today was another short day. I had to dig out a chamisa root before I got started in the shop so I got a late start and was already tired. But I cut a dozen more walnut slats (only 10 survived, due to an internal check in the wood) and a half dozen more oak slats. That should be enough for both doors, and maybe enough to put slats in the bottom of the cabinet, if I decide to do that. Prepping wood with mostly hand tools, I tend to make spares….
> 
> ...


Love that Walnut be safe and have fun.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, part 2*
> 
> Today was another short day. I had to dig out a chamisa root before I got started in the shop so I got a late start and was already tired. But I cut a dozen more walnut slats (only 10 survived, due to an internal check in the wood) and a half dozen more oak slats. That should be enough for both doors, and maybe enough to put slats in the bottom of the cabinet, if I decide to do that. Prepping wood with mostly hand tools, I tend to make spares….
> 
> ...


You hit the nail right on the head: "it's not a race; it's a way of spending my time." I just spent a couple hours in the shop using hand tools, listening to Bob Marley, creating a mud room style bench with shoe storage, rather than setting in front of the TV. 
That's what woodworking is for, along with the great exercise while getting buff.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, part 2*
> 
> Today was another short day. I had to dig out a chamisa root before I got started in the shop so I got a late start and was already tired. But I cut a dozen more walnut slats (only 10 survived, due to an internal check in the wood) and a half dozen more oak slats. That should be enough for both doors, and maybe enough to put slats in the bottom of the cabinet, if I decide to do that. Prepping wood with mostly hand tools, I tend to make spares….
> 
> ...


Thanks, Oldrivers!

Thanks, Tom! I suspect I won't ever be buff, but if I keep losing a little weight now and again, rather than putting more on, I'll consider that a win. Looking forward to seeing the bench!


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, part 2*
> 
> Today was another short day. I had to dig out a chamisa root before I got started in the shop so I got a late start and was already tired. But I cut a dozen more walnut slats (only 10 survived, due to an internal check in the wood) and a half dozen more oak slats. That should be enough for both doors, and maybe enough to put slats in the bottom of the cabinet, if I decide to do that. Prepping wood with mostly hand tools, I tend to make spares….
> 
> ...


I want to see some pickies of the root removal please, as for being fit that's a good gauge, as I found out replacing a fence post in Jul, and …I also enjoyed the afternoon nap!
To hell with the noise!

Don't forget chamisa is good for dyeing textiles if the partner is into it


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, part 2*
> 
> Today was another short day. I had to dig out a chamisa root before I got started in the shop so I got a late start and was already tired. But I cut a dozen more walnut slats (only 10 survived, due to an internal check in the wood) and a half dozen more oak slats. That should be enough for both doors, and maybe enough to put slats in the bottom of the cabinet, if I decide to do that. Prepping wood with mostly hand tools, I tend to make spares….
> 
> ...


No pictures of the actual digging, but here's the aftermath. The larger bucket is a 25l.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, part 2*
> 
> Today was another short day. I had to dig out a chamisa root before I got started in the shop so I got a late start and was already tired. But I cut a dozen more walnut slats (only 10 survived, due to an internal check in the wood) and a half dozen more oak slats. That should be enough for both doors, and maybe enough to put slats in the bottom of the cabinet, if I decide to do that. Prepping wood with mostly hand tools, I tend to make spares….
> 
> ...


May not be much but well spent time in the shop. I don't know about you but part of that chamisa root would be on the lathe to see what becomes of it.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, part 2*
> 
> Today was another short day. I had to dig out a chamisa root before I got started in the shop so I got a late start and was already tired. But I cut a dozen more walnut slats (only 10 survived, due to an internal check in the wood) and a half dozen more oak slats. That should be enough for both doors, and maybe enough to put slats in the bottom of the cabinet, if I decide to do that. Prepping wood with mostly hand tools, I tend to make spares….
> 
> ...


Chamisa is NFG for anything, Dave. It's stringy, and there's almost no strength holding the strings together. Y'know how they talk about imagining a piece of wood is like a bunch of straws (for figuring how to work with the grain) ? Chamisa is like that, but with nothing holding the straws together but static cling.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, part 2*
> 
> Today was another short day. I had to dig out a chamisa root before I got started in the shop so I got a late start and was already tired. But I cut a dozen more walnut slats (only 10 survived, due to an internal check in the wood) and a half dozen more oak slats. That should be enough for both doors, and maybe enough to put slats in the bottom of the cabinet, if I decide to do that. Prepping wood with mostly hand tools, I tend to make spares….
> 
> ...


Since you put it that way, DUMP it and work on the hamper. LOL.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, part 2*
> 
> Today was another short day. I had to dig out a chamisa root before I got started in the shop so I got a late start and was already tired. But I cut a dozen more walnut slats (only 10 survived, due to an internal check in the wood) and a half dozen more oak slats. That should be enough for both doors, and maybe enough to put slats in the bottom of the cabinet, if I decide to do that. Prepping wood with mostly hand tools, I tend to make spares….
> 
> ...


Yeah. It's at the bottom of the trash can this week, where it can push out all the other yard waste when they dump it I to the truck next Wednesday.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Second monday*

Was going to cut the mitered half-laps for the frames this morning, but I'm having the second Monday in this week, so decided to knock off early before I made things worse.










You can see the pencil line for how the miter is supposed to go, but I started sawing and…

Then after gluing that back together so I can take a second try at it, I cut the matching miter (which should have the longer bit of the half-lap joint) but cut it all the way across. Guess I'll have joints that are mitered on the front and which have a square piece across the back so I get some long-grain to glue to.

Spent a little over an hour in the shop, and more than half of the cuts I made were wrong. Time to call it a day.

I did sweep up and knock the sawdust out of the mini-split filters, so that's something, I guess.


----------



## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second monday*
> 
> Was going to cut the mitered half-laps for the frames this morning, but I'm having the second Monday in this week, so decided to knock off early before I made things worse.
> 
> ...


Knowing when to stop is always a good skill.

At least with hand tools we mess things up slower


----------



## mikeacg (Jul 4, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second monday*
> 
> Was going to cut the mitered half-laps for the frames this morning, but I'm having the second Monday in this week, so decided to knock off early before I made things worse.
> 
> ...


Dave,

Thanks for making me feel better about my day!

Mike


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second monday*
> 
> Was going to cut the mitered half-laps for the frames this morning, but I'm having the second Monday in this week, so decided to knock off early before I made things worse.
> 
> ...


Mike, I just should've figured it out about an hour earlier.

You're welcome, Mike! As Mike said, at least I had the sense to stop. I think tomorrow I'll work on slats again. Less to mess up with them, plus more spares.


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second monday*
> 
> Was going to cut the mitered half-laps for the frames this morning, but I'm having the second Monday in this week, so decided to knock off early before I made things worse.
> 
> ...


That is the main reason I keep the shop closed on Mondays…...

Also, when I get ready to start throwing things against the nearest wall…..I set the offending item, sweep up the shop, and walk back upstairs….and just relax…..and try again the next day….sometimes, I even figure what I was doing wrong at that time…..

Being retired, sometimes it is hard to remember what day it is….until something goes…wrong…then I blame it on Monday…and quit for the day…


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second monday*
> 
> Was going to cut the mitered half-laps for the frames this morning, but I'm having the second Monday in this week, so decided to knock off early before I made things worse.
> 
> ...





> Mike, I just should've figured it out about an hour earlier.
> - Dave Polaschek


*SketchUp* would not have prevented it, however, you'd have electronic evidence of your boo-boo, even after the project gets covered up by dirty 2B washing.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second monday*
> 
> Was going to cut the mitered half-laps for the frames this morning, but I'm having the second Monday in this week, so decided to knock off early before I made things worse.
> 
> ...


I measured twice and cut three times but it's still too short….


----------



## LittleBlackDuck (Feb 26, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second monday*
> 
> Was going to cut the mitered half-laps for the frames this morning, but I'm having the second Monday in this week, so decided to knock off early before I made things worse.
> 
> ...





> I measured twice and cut three times but it s still too short….
> - crowie


*crowie*, no matter how short it is… as my signature says, *cut from the longer end*... repeat that a few times and you'll have the length you would like, rather than not have.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second monday*
> 
> Was going to cut the mitered half-laps for the frames this morning, but I'm having the second Monday in this week, so decided to knock off early before I made things worse.
> 
> ...


Actually Dave, this situation has nothing to due with Monday's, I have a theory that it is some sort of communicable virus that is transmitted via electronic means, such as these posts & responses, and wearing a mask has no effect to minimize it's spread.

Yesterday, while working on my current project, I spend about an hour to make an "L" shaped molding by hand with molding planes, designed to be installed around the perimeter of the back opening on this bench to accept a back panel, .....

well, about a half hour after installing it I realized I glued it in the front opening.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second monday*
> 
> Was going to cut the mitered half-laps for the frames this morning, but I'm having the second Monday in this week, so decided to knock off early before I made things worse.
> 
> ...


Yeah, Bandit. We ran errands on Monday, but yesterday made up for it. Oh well. I think I figured out ways to solve all the problems, though I'm going to have to live with that glue joint being visible.

Duckie, I may end up making a new frame piece if the glue joint is too visible. We'll see.

Peter, I can never find my board-stretcher when I need it. I suspect someone's filched it.

Tom, I've done that more than once, too. At a half hour, the glue had probably set enough that you needed a chisel and plane to remove the evidence? Good luck!


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second monday*
> 
> Was going to cut the mitered half-laps for the frames this morning, but I'm having the second Monday in this week, so decided to knock off early before I made things worse.
> 
> ...


Dave sounds like the best thing in the shop that day was to get out. Been there on occasion. Tomorrow's another day.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second monday*
> 
> Was going to cut the mitered half-laps for the frames this morning, but I'm having the second Monday in this week, so decided to knock off early before I made things worse.
> 
> ...


Yep. Brave Sir Robin, he bravely ran away!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Slats, length and thickness*

After yesterday's fiasco with the frames for the doors I decided to go back to working on the slats today.

First, I marked them all for length and cut them appropriately. 12⅛ inches for the short walnut slats, and 18⅛ inches for the longer oak slats.










Then after inspecting see which side would be the show side, I marked a line across the end 1/4" from the non-show side, then pared off the corner with a knife.



















Then I set the slat down and planed the corner off.










And checked the fit in one of the frame pieces to make sure I'd gotten enough removed.










Then flip the slat around and do the same on the other end.

Once both ends were done, I smoothed the show face of the slat with a scraper to make it pretty.










And then if there were any checks, fill those with thin CA glue.










I got all six of the walnut slats done to my satisfaction, and got the tips of the oak ones cut with a knife before it was time to break for lunch. I also glued up a check in one of the oak slats and glued two of my fingers together, so there was a little break to find the acetone. Note that childproof containers can be really tricky to open when the fingers on one hand are glued together.

Later today, I'll finish up the oak slats and then probably break the arrises on the long edges with a block plane before cutting the half-laps in the slats tomorrow or Saturday. I may need to do a little planing at that point so the joints look right, but I think that'll be either chisel or knife work. I also might put a decorative bead on the face of the slats. Haven't decided for sure yet.


----------



## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, length and thickness*
> 
> After yesterday's fiasco with the frames for the doors I decided to go back to working on the slats today.
> 
> ...


Nice comeback Dave.

Thanks for reminding me of the technique of using CA glue to fill in the cracks.

Which consistency did you use thin or medium.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, length and thickness*
> 
> After yesterday's fiasco with the frames for the doors I decided to go back to working on the slats today.
> 
> ...


It was most likely the effects of the chamisa root. LOL. Anyway like James says good come back. CA glue is great stuff I use it all the time to save projects.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, length and thickness*
> 
> After yesterday's fiasco with the frames for the doors I decided to go back to working on the slats today.
> 
> ...


Thanks, James. I almost always have thin on hand. If I need medium, I just pack a little sawdust into whatever I'm filling and then wick in some thin. ;-)

Could well be, Dave. Or just a second Monday in the week. Sometimes I have a week with no Mondays, so I figure I get some weeks with two.

Got the oak to the right thickness this afternoon (which required sharpening the block plane for the first time in… forever) and have a jig drying so I can use it tomorrow to put beads on all the slats. At 1/4-5/16 thick, they're too thin for the foot/fence on my LN66 beading tool.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, length and thickness*
> 
> After yesterday's fiasco with the frames for the doors I decided to go back to working on the slats today.
> 
> ...


Looking pretty good, things are moving g along quite nicely - except of course for the finger glue-up.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, length and thickness*
> 
> After yesterday's fiasco with the frames for the doors I decided to go back to working on the slats today.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Tom! Hey, at least I had acetone on hand!


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, length and thickness*
> 
> After yesterday's fiasco with the frames for the doors I decided to go back to working on the slats today.
> 
> ...


nice progress my friend,i always have ca on hand to solve many a problem,and debonder to solve the problem the ca created.yeah ive done it…..once or twice-lol.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, length and thickness*
> 
> After yesterday's fiasco with the frames for the doors I decided to go back to working on the slats today.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Pottz! I have acetone for cleaning metal already, and it worked pretty well, once I got the #[email protected]* childproof cap opened (took a slip-jaw pliers).


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats, length and thickness*
> 
> After yesterday's fiasco with the frames for the doors I decided to go back to working on the slats today.
> 
> ...


Got the beads put onto the slats. Tomorrow I'll round over the edges and then be ready to start cutting the half-lap joints.










Also made a video of making beads with a LN 66, but YouTube wants to waste five minutes of my time scanning the video for copyrighted material in a 20 second video. Screw Dat.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Door frame mitered half-lap joints*

Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.



















The joints required a bit of fine tuning, both in the miter angles, as well as in the thickness of the half-lap. I got two of them good last night and two this morning.










Now I need to figure and mark the half-laps for the slats, and then grow about a dozen extra hands in order hold it together long enough to glue it all up.


----------



## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Door frame mitered half-lap joints*
> 
> Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.
> 
> ...


The half laps look great. How did you cut them?


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Door frame mitered half-lap joints*
> 
> Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.
> 
> ...


Thanks! I cut them by hand. Marked the diagonal using a 45 square, and cut the lap at the bottom of the groove that's there for the slats. I sawed the lap first, then cut the miter down to it on the longer pieces. The shorter ones I cut the lap after the miter, but that didn't work as well.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Door frame mitered half-lap joints*
> 
> Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.
> 
> ...


Nice work, looks like the assembly will be tight. 
When you adjusted the miter cuts, this will shorten the length slightly, and I'm wondering if this effected your overall dimensions - or didn't it matter due to application?


----------



## mafe (Dec 10, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Door frame mitered half-lap joints*
> 
> Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.
> 
> ...


Looks good, they never seem to just fit… 
Smiles.
Best thoughts,
Mads


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Door frame mitered half-lap joints*
> 
> Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.
> 
> ...


Good question, Tom!

The adjustments were less than 1/64th, so yeah, it might affect the length, but I left everything about 1/16 too long, and I plan to plane off that sixteenth once they're assembled. And *then* I'll build the outer frame to fit the doors.

I also had to make a few tweaks to the inside edges of the frames so that everything would line up when assembled (and because it's a lot easier to plane the inside edges before things are assembled). If you were to handle the pieces, the inside and the face are planed to a finish-ready state. The outside still has bandsaw marks. The back is off by as much as 1/8 on one corner, but that'll get planed down, too. Not exactly sure what the final depth of the door will be, but it'll be more than 3/4 and less than an inch.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Door frame mitered half-lap joints*
> 
> Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Mads! Especially since I'm figuring things out as I go. ;-)

I also glued-up the jig for cutting the half-laps in the slats this morning. Have to cut a couple slots in it this afternoon so I have something to guide my saw. And then cut some notches so I have a guide for my chisel to remove the half-lap material in the slats. There's probably an easier way, but this is the one my brain came up with.


----------



## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Door frame mitered half-lap joints*
> 
> Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.
> 
> ...


This will be the Mother of all laundry hampers. I can't wait to see it.

I have had a somewhat similar idea for a recycling basket for several years. Not as detailed as yours. Once
again, overcoming inertia is the hardest part.

I hope the rest is as good as what you have done.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Door frame mitered half-lap joints*
> 
> Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Hairy! It's definitely going to be something. I've got over two weeks in and don't even have the first door complete, but it's definitely not a race.


----------



## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Door frame mitered half-lap joints*
> 
> Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.
> 
> ...


This washing basket is a master piece Dave.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Door frame mitered half-lap joints*
> 
> Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Peter! It's coming along, I think. And the doors are going to be the most visible bit (except perhaps for the top), so I wanted to do them first and make them pretty.


----------



## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Door frame mitered half-lap joints*
> 
> Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.
> 
> ...


looks like it's coming along quite well even though your stubborn and wont listen-lol. your doing great my friend.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Door frame mitered half-lap joints*
> 
> Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.
> 
> ...


Wow Dave looking at that last picture before glue up shows some beautiful work.. I'm all into it.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Door frame mitered half-lap joints*
> 
> Many errands yesterday. We had eight stops on our trip to town, so shop time was… sparse. But I picked up cutting the half-lap joints for the frame and then finished them up this morning.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Pottz!

Thanks, Dave! There's still more to come!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Half-laps in the slats*

Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.

So I glued down two rails to hold the slat while I cross-cut it, with a pencil mark for the end of the slat, and a piece of wood to sit in the gap to align where I should cut the next joint. I also cut a notch so I can use this same guide to hold the slat while I chisel out the waste.










After cutting the first notch…










I align it with the block in my jig










And saw the two edges of the next notch










Then I move it to the notch in the guide and saw a few more kerfs (three seems to work well for the 7/8" wide notch I'm making)










Then I chisel out the waste, using the chisel across the grain and bevel-up, then with the grain, bevel-down to clean up the bottom



















Do that a few more times, times ten slats, and I'll be ready to glue them up.










I'll add a picture once all ten are done. Note that these joints will probably require some tuning. Some of the slats are a little wider than 7/8 inch, so I'll need to plane them narrower so they'll fit. But the glue joints where the slats cross don't have to be especially strong, just solid enough to hold the grid stable while I glue up the frame.

[ Time passes ]

Well, all four of the oak slats are done now. I needed to narrow three of the four oak slats, and five of the six walnut slats before everything would come together.










But I measured (and planed) each oak slat as I cut the half-laps in it, and had numbered all of the slats so I didn't get them out of order.










And once I had the two first oak slats woven in, I realized I wasn't going to need any glue to hold the slats. In fact, I needed to use Earl's dice mallet to persuade the third oak slat into place.










And for the fourth slat, I cut all of the half-laps as deep as I dared, which made the oak more flexible when I went to weave it between the walnut slats. And between that, and cutting one of the slots wider (because I couldn't plane down the wide end of the walnut slat that was about 1/32 too wide), and tap-tap-tapping with the dice mallet, everything went together.










And that's how they're going to stay. I suspect I *could* get them apart if I tried, but there would be a very real risk of breaking something, and they're rock solid as they are, so that's how they'll stay. If the lattice is slightly out of square, I'll just tap it a little and hope I can square it up. Or cut deeper grooves in the frame so it can be slightly out of square.


----------



## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Looks good from here….maybe use a router plane to clean up the slots? Cutter set to final depth, and just run it back and forth a few times?


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


I thought about that, but my good router plane is still in the bottom of the one box I haven't unpacked since moving. I'm just cutting the notches a little (between 1/32 and 1/16) deeper than they need to be, and I'll shim with a piece of oak veneer if there are any gaps that are too big.

I expecting I'll "clamp" the grid of slats by setting a bag of sand on top of it.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Nice work, I like the weave or over - under of the slats, should add strength to the assembly.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Tom! It's a lot of work for each door, but part of that has been because I'm figuring things out as I go. If I ever do this again, I'll have jigs built and will know what I'm doing, which generally makes things easier.


----------



## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


looks like your doing a GR8 JOB on it cant wait to see them assembled :<)))))))


----------



## oldrivers (Feb 10, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


That's good innovative enjoy the fruits of your labors, good job.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Tony! Me too!

Thanks, Oldrivers!


----------



## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Very interesting, a unique project, looks great somfar!


----------



## duckmilk (Oct 10, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Good idea, thanks for showing us.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Smitty! I didn't pick the easiest way to do this, but it'll be unique!

Thanks, Duck!

Note that I updated the writeup with the finished lattice.


----------



## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Ah ha !


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Exactly, Rob! I'm a weaver.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


And a very good one at that !


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Thank you kindly, sir!


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


This is woodworking art Dave!


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Peter! I'm trying to make something I'll be proud of. So far it's going well, but I still need to figure out the side panels and top of the hamper. But that's a week out, at least.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Great woodworking here Dave. I remember as kids making rafts out of Popsicle sticks. After a few sticks together they got very tight. The two woods are starting to pop with color.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave! I wouldn't have wanted to go much bigger than this, or have tighter spacing. It would've been a bear to get together.


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## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Clever, for some reason it never occurs to me to make a jig for anything, probably just truly poor forward planning skills on my part.

Well, it occurs to me, just earlier I though I should make a jig to hold blanks while I turn them into octogans (even planned it out in my head), but I just hacked my way though and don't need it now - pretty sure the same thing happened the previous 3 or 4 times.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


I think my penchant for jigs comes from my time in the computer biz. For a task I had to do more than once, the first time I would be thinking about how to automate it and debug my process, then for the second and subsequent times, I would hopefully be able to let the computer do a lot of the grunt work.

Of course there were some tasks I never managed to automate, because I was lazy or not smart enough to figure out all the edge cases, but I usually tried to automate it, at least.


----------



## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Hah, strange - I think my penchant against jigs is because of my time in the computer biz.

I started the old school woodworking partly as a way to split from work, something I couldn't automate that had to be done right first time with no easy way to fix a mistake - so a way to force myself to slow down and focus instead of bouncing around at breakneck speed.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Half-laps in the slats*
> 
> Built a jig last night to help me cut the half-laps in the slats. If you divide the slat into 3" chunks, each crossing slat will be in the center of that chunk.
> 
> ...


Fair enough. Most of my work was long-term maintenance programmer work. I spent 13 years working on the same application. Before that, I spent a decade doing the same job (updating ancient print code to more modern APIs) on various applications. So there was a lot of repetition, and I would script things because a lot of my work was bid by the job, so the quicker I got it done, the better my hourly rate.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*First door: Gluing it up*

Between the Monday holiday and my sweetie having some friends of hers over yesterday, I haven't had a lot of shop time the past few days. But I've sorta completed the first door.

I started by gluing together opposite corners of the frame, making sure they were square and level. The wasn't too bad, but that was all I got done on Sunday evening.

Monday, I did the big glue-up of the door. The lattice is "loose" in the frame (not glued in, anyhow), but that still left a lot of parts to get corralled and clamped up.










When I took the clamps off Tuesday morning, the two corners I'd glued on Monday popped apart. So I cleaned them up, applied more glue, and then drilled quarter-inch dowels into the fit corners. I had to re-align the lattice as I was doing this, and cracked one of the oak slats in the process, but I think a little CA glue in the crack will hold it.










This morning I trimmed the dowels flush, planed the back and edges smooth, and hit the whole thing with a coat of linseed oil. Oil and some Tried & True Varnish Oil is probably going to be my eventual finish. I spotted a few problems I'll need to clean up, and the miters are pretty gappy, but for a first attempt, this isn't horrible, I think.










That's where I'm going to leave this first door for now. I've got the slats for the second almost profiled, and I'll start cutting notches in them tomorrow. I might try and cut the half-lap joints fit the corners of the second door yet today, but we'll see how things go.

Thanks for looking in.


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *First door: Gluing it up*
> 
> Between the Monday holiday and my sweetie having some friends of hers over yesterday, I haven't had a lot of shop time the past few days. But I've sorta completed the first door.
> 
> ...


I'm surprised those half-lap miters came apart with the long grain to long grain contact. Any idea what happened?

Nice weave on the slats, looks great, and the beads are a nice touch.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *First door: Gluing it up*
> 
> Between the Monday holiday and my sweetie having some friends of hers over yesterday, I haven't had a lot of shop time the past few days. But I've sorta completed the first door.
> 
> ...


too nice for dirty clothes :<))))))))))


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *First door: Gluing it up*
> 
> Between the Monday holiday and my sweetie having some friends of hers over yesterday, I haven't had a lot of shop time the past few days. But I've sorta completed the first door.
> 
> ...


I think they didn't have great contact because the frame was skewed, Tom. I was a little off on the depth of the half-lap, and in order to keep the front flush, and the edges square… it was just too many things for me to get aligned all at once. Plus the lattice slats we're about 1/32 too long, which tended to push everything apart. The dowels seemed to do the trick, though. With those in, I could keep everything aligned while clamping and the glue had a good chance to grab and hold. For the second door, I'm going to cut the slats to 12 3/16 and 18 3/16, rather than 12 1/4 and 18 1/4, and I think everything will be fine.

That may be, Tony, but it's a fun learning experience too. I haven't done any serious frame and panel construction before, and that's about all there will be in this laundry hamper.


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## duckmilk (Oct 10, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *First door: Gluing it up*
> 
> Between the Monday holiday and my sweetie having some friends of hers over yesterday, I haven't had a lot of shop time the past few days. But I've sorta completed the first door.
> 
> ...


Looks great Dave. I'm sure I would lose a sock through one of the spaces though.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *First door: Gluing it up*
> 
> Between the Monday holiday and my sweetie having some friends of hers over yesterday, I haven't had a lot of shop time the past few days. But I've sorta completed the first door.
> 
> ...


The clothes are still going to live in plastic laundry baskets inside this. The doors are just to hide things so nobody has to look at my dirty underwear.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *First door: Gluing it up*
> 
> Between the Monday holiday and my sweetie having some friends of hers over yesterday, I haven't had a lot of shop time the past few days. But I've sorta completed the first door.
> 
> ...


It seems odd that they popped apart after taking off the clamps. Most likely a little trim here or there will fix it up perfectly. Looks good. It would make a neat grill for a window decoration too.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *First door: Gluing it up*
> 
> Between the Monday holiday and my sweetie having some friends of hers over yesterday, I haven't had a lot of shop time the past few days. But I've sorta completed the first door.
> 
> ...


Yeah, Dave. I think it's because the lattice is just a hair too big, it prevented everything from sitting nicely, or perhaps it moved partway through the glue drying. In any case, doweling it maintained alignment, and it's solid now.

I may end up making a grill for our fireplace this way too, but it would have something on the back. The damper doesn't stay closed in high winds, so we're looking for something to cover it up in the winter when we're not using it, and this design might work. We'll see what my sweetie thinks of the completed hamper first though…


----------



## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *First door: Gluing it up*
> 
> Between the Monday holiday and my sweetie having some friends of hers over yesterday, I haven't had a lot of shop time the past few days. But I've sorta completed the first door.
> 
> ...


So far so good Dave. This is like binge watching for me.

I may build one in the A & C style and I'm watching your process and what to avoid.

The slates in the frame look like the most challenging. Any advice for building them.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *First door: Gluing it up*
> 
> Between the Monday holiday and my sweetie having some friends of hers over yesterday, I haven't had a lot of shop time the past few days. But I've sorta completed the first door.
> 
> ...


The slats weren't too bad, but make sure that each one fits in the frame and that the length is correct before you assemble them. Once assembled, any changes are nigh impossible. And disassembly would risk breaking them.

A 4×6 grid of slats is about the largest I can see weaving together without doing something like steam-bending them.

I think most of my difficulty happened because the slats were about 1/32 too long, which kept me from getting the frame lined up "just right" while trying to clamp it up.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Second door and stock prep for the carcasse*

Been a while since I worked on this, and the pile of slats I had set aside for the second door took a beating while they were laying on the corner of the bench. I ended up needing to recut all of the oak slats in order to be able to assemble the second door, but that went more smoothly as I have better tools for the job.

The dados in the slats got cut on a table saw this time around. And the mitered half-laps on the door frame pieces got cut at the miter box. Much easier to get everything square that way.

But because the slats had been cut months ago, the walnut ones were all a hair short (maybe an eighth) which meant they didn't sit nicely in the groove in the frame. So I cut some rock-maple scraps I had into 1/8×3/8 strips using my bandsaw, and glued them to the inside of the frame. That will give the slats some extra support. And that glue-up is the most clamps I've ever used on a single piece to date.










With that done, it was time to start prepping the stock for the carcasse. I had two 4/4 ash boards, one 6¼" wide and one 7⅜" wide, both 6 feet long. My cut list tells me I need 4 48" long 1×5/4 legs, 6 22½" 1×1 pieces, and 6 30" 1×1 pieces. First I cut the board with the straighter grain into a 4 foot length and a 2 foot length, using my miter box. I was glad I had made it so it was the same height as my bench, and a couple sawhorses and some pine scraps made a table for the other side of the saw.










Then I cut the 2 foot length down to 22½ inches, and set up my bandsaw to rip 5/4 pieces off the boards. As both boards were nearly flat-sawn, this gives me quarter-sawn pieces if I orient them correctly.










Then I cut a 30 inch length from the wider board, and ripped it into 6 1⅛"x1" pieces. I'll aim to keep them as close to 1" square after planing them smooth.










That was enough for this morning. Next session I'll get busy with a hand-plane and make some nice stock to work with.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door and stock prep for the carcasse*
> 
> Been a while since I worked on this, and the pile of slats I had set aside for the second door took a beating while they were laying on the corner of the bench. I ended up needing to recut all of the oak slats in order to be able to assemble the second door, but that went more smoothly as I have better tools for the job.
> 
> ...


Nice work Dave, and yet once again someone has proven the old adage to be true: You can NEVER have enough clamps!


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door and stock prep for the carcasse*
> 
> Been a while since I worked on this, and the pile of slats I had set aside for the second door took a beating while they were laying on the corner of the bench. I ended up needing to recut all of the oak slats in order to be able to assemble the second door, but that went more smoothly as I have better tools for the job.
> 
> ...


Nothing like sharing your dirty laundry with us Dave but it's enjoyable. Better get it done soon or you will have a room filled with dirty clothes. LOL. Shame those slats shrunk but that's for another project.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door and stock prep for the carcasse*
> 
> Been a while since I worked on this, and the pile of slats I had set aside for the second door took a beating while they were laying on the corner of the bench. I ended up needing to recut all of the oak slats in order to be able to assemble the second door, but that went more smoothly as I have better tools for the job.
> 
> ...


Yeah, Tom. I ordered another 8 clamps (the 4¾" QuickLocks) today, so maybe I'll at least have enough!

Thanks, Dave! Some seem to have shrunk, others got snapped, and there were two that I just plain cut wrong because I didn't remember how to use the jig I build almost a year ago. Oh well. Since I'm cutting them from a 12/4×8+" board, and I only need them to be 1/4 thick, I can cut a 1/4" slice off the edge of the board and get three slats from it.

As for getting it done, I got a couple pointed questions about that and the fireplace screen I was supposed to have done last winter, so I figure I oughta get at it one of these days.


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## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door and stock prep for the carcasse*
> 
> Been a while since I worked on this, and the pile of slats I had set aside for the second door took a beating while they were laying on the corner of the bench. I ended up needing to recut all of the oak slats in order to be able to assemble the second door, but that went more smoothly as I have better tools for the job.
> 
> ...


Looking good Dave, that a lot of clamps to get in place. I like the weave on those panels.

Sounds like you are being bad there, putting off the sweeties request. You may have to make it up to her. Lol.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door and stock prep for the carcasse*
> 
> Been a while since I worked on this, and the pile of slats I had set aside for the second door took a beating while they were laying on the corner of the bench. I ended up needing to recut all of the oak slats in order to be able to assemble the second door, but that went more smoothly as I have better tools for the job.
> 
> ...


Well, the cholla / epoxy bowls take a lot of time, so things have gotten stacked up, Eric. She understands that, but now that I've decided to drop out of the studio tour this fall, we decided I'm going to try and alternate "arty" projects with things for around the house. Which means that finishing this one has to happen before I get to start playing with the Ringmaster I ordered back in March.

The weave on the panels definitely looks neat, but it's enough of a pain that I probably won't do it again. Though there is a 60° angled pattern I'd like to try at some point…


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## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door and stock prep for the carcasse*
> 
> Been a while since I worked on this, and the pile of slats I had set aside for the second door took a beating while they were laying on the corner of the bench. I ended up needing to recut all of the oak slats in order to be able to assemble the second door, but that went more smoothly as I have better tools for the job.
> 
> ...


So, you've been collared and put back to work.

Fancy little brass bar clamps there


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door and stock prep for the carcasse*
> 
> Been a while since I worked on this, and the pile of slats I had set aside for the second door took a beating while they were laying on the corner of the bench. I ended up needing to recut all of the oak slats in order to be able to assemble the second door, but that went more smoothly as I have better tools for the job.
> 
> ...


Yeah, Mike. Mind, the house projects are things I want to do, too. I've made all the lists of projects, it's just that I've gotten a little help focusing, perhaps?

The little brass clamps are ones that MaFe showed off in a project he did, and I figured they'd come in handy for some small project one of these days. I've used them on a bunch of little boxes.


----------



## adot45 (Sep 9, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door and stock prep for the carcasse*
> 
> Been a while since I worked on this, and the pile of slats I had set aside for the second door took a beating while they were laying on the corner of the bench. I ended up needing to recut all of the oak slats in order to be able to assemble the second door, but that went more smoothly as I have better tools for the job.
> 
> ...


Like the weave Dave, also looking forward to see where you go with your RingMaster…...


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door and stock prep for the carcasse*
> 
> Been a while since I worked on this, and the pile of slats I had set aside for the second door took a beating while they were laying on the corner of the bench. I ended up needing to recut all of the oak slats in order to be able to assemble the second door, but that went more smoothly as I have better tools for the job.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave! Haven't even unboxed it yet, so it'll be a while, if I know what's good for me. ;-)


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Second door finished, more stock prep*

I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.










The it was time to work more on the frame pieces for the carcasse.










I'm really liking the transitional I got in the HPOYD Secret Santa. It's a lot lighter than my LN #5, which means I don't mind taking a lighter cut and having to make a few extra passes. But after just a short time working, it started catching shavings between the blade and the chip-breaker, so it was time for a sharpening.

First I tuned up the leading edge of the chip-breaker. It wasn't as smooth as it could be on the back, so I smoothed that with a slip. Then I straightened the front edge that rests against the blade. It's better, but not yet perfect.

Then it was time to sharpen the blade. After a few passes on my stone, I noticed this pattern on the blade.










It's sharpening the edges, but not the middle. Bother. My stone is dished.

Well, there's more than one way to skin a cat, so I turned the blade 90 degrees and ran it back and forth along the high sides of the stone. Didn't get it flattened, but it's less dished than it was, and I quickly got the double-bevel on the blade turned into a single bevel. Then onto the finer stone. It's a little dished too, so I kept sharpening the blade cross-wise, so I didn't make a (more) cambered blade.










Popped that back in the plane, spent a little while fiddling with it (first try I had the chip-breaker set too close to the edge), and then started getting nice shavings either direction on the ash, which is good enough to work with.

But rather than getting a bunch of stock prepped, I only got three of the four uprights done this morning. Oh well. Guess I'll have to head back to the shop later.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door finished, more stock prep*
> 
> I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.
> 
> ...


That door panel looks good Dave. I might have missed it, but did you install the woven slats within a grove? Just thinking for strength, then a pin nail to keep them from shifting.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door finished, more stock prep*
> 
> I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.
> 
> ...


Door 1 had the slats installed in a groove. Door 2 had the oak slats installed in a groove, but the walnut slats were about 1/8" too short, so I applied the maple inserts to hold everything in place. The door slats shouldn't ever have much weight on them (though a laundry basket will likely be supported by the door going in or out, it will mostly be supported by the door frame), so I think it'll be strong enough. If not, I can always rebuild.

As for shifting, because the slats have dados in them where they're woven, they shouldn't move around much. No nails in the project at all.


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## pottz (Sep 15, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door finished, more stock prep*
> 
> I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.
> 
> ...


looks great dave.


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door finished, more stock prep*
> 
> I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.
> 
> ...


I sympathize regarding the dished sharpening stone, which requires you flatten the sharpening stone before you can sharpen a tool & get back to work.
To avoid this, I've mostly used sandpaper for sharpening, on a ceramic tile from the big box store. This has worked pretty good for me, but recently I viewed Stumpy Nubs when he recommended a set of inexpensive diamond plates. They are thin, so they need to be on a flat surface, like my ceramic tile, but they're also good for hand held situations when sharpening something like an axe, or any edge you hold still and run the plate across it.
If interested, I got mine at: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=diamond%20sharpening%20plate&i=aps&ref=nb_sb_ss_mission-aware-v1_4_19&crid=1L8U5YD7QBQZ2&sprefix=Diamond%20sharpening%20%2Caps%2C124

Most under $20, they seem to be doing pretty good for my use, maybe give them a shot.

Happy woodworking.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door finished, more stock prep*
> 
> I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Pottz.

Yeah, Tom. I like stones, though. I have an old school hard Arkansas stone that's pretty curvy, a set of japanese water stones (which aren't dished) and some friable hones from Razor Edge Systems that I really like because they can be used dry, but are dished, so I guess it's time to get a diamond plate I can use to flatten stones. But I also sharpen plane blades with a NanoHone Sharp Skate which I used to slide the plane blade down the long edge of a dished stone and still get decent results today, so I can put off flattening for another day.

But I'm told a cheap diamond plate is just the thing for flattening stones, so I'll check out the ones you recommended. They're a fair whack cheaper than the NanoHone lapping plate I've been eyeing.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door finished, more stock prep*
> 
> I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.
> 
> ...


I have a project like this that I keep picking at every once in awhile since I'm experimenting with it. Plus they make a good fill in and give me time to make changes as I go along. This seems so familiar. Keep at it Dave.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door finished, more stock prep*
> 
> I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.
> 
> ...


Well, I think this one will be front and center for a while, Dave. I've had parts for it cluttering up my bench for too long, and my dirty clothes just sitting in plain view in a laundry basket, which bugs my sweetie every time we have company.

Plus I think I've figured out the top, and I have an idea for the sides I want to think about a little more before I start cutting, but describing it last night got me a design approval.

But I've also taken to building little boxes in prep for the 70-some drawers I'm going to need to make for the hardware cabinet I want to build for the shop, so drawers will probably be my "fill in project" for a while. Some as small as a 1" square front by 3" deep.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door finished, more stock prep*
> 
> I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.
> 
> ...


That's going to be a lot of drawers. Be interesting to follow along.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door finished, more stock prep*
> 
> I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I'll blog that at some point, but probably not every day. Going to be a lot of drawers, but I'm getting pretty good at boxes.


----------



## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door finished, more stock prep*
> 
> I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.
> 
> ...


I got some of those cheap diamond stones last year, originally to flatten an oilstone that had dished.

Decided to try using them for sharpening and haven't used any other stones since for plane irons - just the plates and a strop. Quick and easy to freehand on, and cheap enough to get on a whim and have a play with.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Second door finished, more stock prep*
> 
> I sanded off the glue squeeze-out from my inserts and got a coat of BLO on the second door this morning. Found a handy hook to hang it on while it dries.
> 
> ...


Well, I ordered one of them to flatten my stones and/or use for sharpening. We'll see how it goes.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Top prep and more legs*

I started resawing some stock to make the top for this hamper. I'm aiming for a top that's 3/8 thick, so I cut a couple of my 1" thick ash boards in half.

First I needed to clean up the edges, so I clamped the board in the face vise and jointed the edge smooth and square.










Then I set up the table-saw as high as it would go, with the fence 1/16" under 1/2" from the blade (trying to account for the kerf).










After running the board across the table saw twice, I had something like this:










So I got out the panel saw, and finished the job.










After some planing, it looks like these "too gnarly to be legs" boards are going to make a pretty top. I've got more work to do, since the ash curved a bit when I sawed it in half. But I got started, at least.










And there's some pretty in there. My sweetie approves of it.










With about a half hour to go until lunch I was looking for something easier, so I finished squaring up and smoothing the last two legs (making a total of five - a spare might come in handy). But I forgot to take a picture of those. Oh well. Mañana.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top prep and more legs*
> 
> I started resawing some stock to make the top for this hamper. I'm aiming for a top that's 3/8 thick, so I cut a couple of my 1" thick ash boards in half.
> 
> ...


So far, so good.
Regarding the board that curved a but after being sawed in half, that's typical. I resawed a board once that was so case hardened, it snapped apart before I got all the way through with such a loud snap that I thought I broke the bandsaw blade. Scared the crap out of me.
The joy's of woodworking.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top prep and more legs*
> 
> I started resawing some stock to make the top for this hamper. I'm aiming for a top that's 3/8 thick, so I cut a couple of my 1" thick ash boards in half.
> 
> ...


Pretty grains in those boards. I had the same problem with the boards I resawed for the little boxes I did a few months back.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top prep and more legs*
> 
> I started resawing some stock to make the top for this hamper. I'm aiming for a top that's 3/8 thick, so I cut a couple of my 1" thick ash boards in half.
> 
> ...


Yeah Tom, it's just that this is the first board I've resawed that banana-ed, as well as cupping a bit. So I either have to do a lot of planing, or glue it under tension and use the neighboring board to pull it the other way. First time resawing with the table-saw, and with ash, I think it's easier. The bandsaw just wanders too much in ash. The table saw smokes a bit and powers through. :-/

Thanks, Eric. I thought the bit with the wild grain would end up being pretty. Part of why I bought the board. Half of it was straight grain, good for legs. The other half was all curly and wild.

Also got out and planed some more this afternoon. I have almost all the sticks done, but I still need to saw 15-20 slats for between the levels. Guess that's tomorrow.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top prep and more legs*
> 
> I started resawing some stock to make the top for this hamper. I'm aiming for a top that's 3/8 thick, so I cut a couple of my 1" thick ash boards in half.
> 
> ...


At least you got it cut. Too bad you don't have the bigger bandsaw. Could of sliced that in your sleep. It does have some gnarly grain. The top will be a show off.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top prep and more legs*
> 
> I started resawing some stock to make the top for this hamper. I'm aiming for a top that's 3/8 thick, so I cut a couple of my 1" thick ash boards in half.
> 
> ...


I've never had good luck resawing ash with the bigger (Delta 14) bandsaw, Dave. It always wandered, often far enough that the kerf left the piece, ruining one of the halves. That's why I kept fighting with the tension on it. The table saw worked pretty well, aside from the big kerf, but the wacky grain didn't pull the blade off-line, so yay!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Slats & top*

More stock prep today. I got another ash board and cut it into lengths. 30" long with straight grain for slats to go in each level beneath the plastic laundry basket in the hamper, another 30" with a knot in the middle of it to be resawed into two pieces for the top, and a piece bout a foot long with a few checks in it that will probably end up being stock for a future small box.










With the pieces cut, I resawed most of the way through the piece for the top with the table saw again, then hand-sawed it apart using a panel saw. Haven't cleaned those pieces up yet, so no picture.

The straight-grained chunk got both edges planed flat by hand, then sliced into 17 3/8 thick pieces on the bandsaw.



















Then each piece went in the face vise and got its edge (the previous face of the board) planed smooth-ish.










I say smooth-ish because I did four passes down each slat with the plane. I tried to get the direction right, but there was a bit of reversing grain in nearly every board, so I ended up with a few rough spots.










My plan is that I'll glue these in between the front and back pieces of the frame into a mostly-flat layer, then I'll take a sander to them (wish I had a drum sander, but alas) and flatten things out enough that a laundry basket will slide easily along them.

But first I need to plane the faces (which won't really be seen) more flat, as there are some waves in them from sawing on the bandsaw. Again, four or five passes will clean most of them up, but there's some reversing grain, and a few of them warped enough that they won't stay put against the planing stop, so I called it a day. Gotta have something to do tomorrow, right?


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats & top*
> 
> More stock prep today. I got another ash board and cut it into lengths. 30" long with straight grain for slats to go in each level beneath the plastic laundry basket in the hamper, another 30" with a knot in the middle of it to be resawed into two pieces for the top, and a piece bout a foot long with a few checks in it that will probably end up being stock for a future small box.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a fun day in the shop.
In the last picture, it looks like it was planed against the grain, that so? Or, is this one of those boards that has grain going both ways, sort of up hill from both ends towards the middle?


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats & top*
> 
> More stock prep today. I got another ash board and cut it into lengths. 30" long with straight grain for slats to go in each level beneath the plastic laundry basket in the hamper, another 30" with a knot in the middle of it to be resawed into two pieces for the top, and a piece bout a foot long with a few checks in it that will probably end up being stock for a future small box.
> 
> ...


Yeah, it was a pretty good day.

Yep. That piece, looked at from the side, has the grain running in a shallow U. On one side, you have to plane from both ends to the middle. On the other side, you need to plane from the middle out. I got close with the tranny, and I'll go back with a smoother with a tight mouth to clean things up. Or sand. Haven't decided for sure.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats & top*
> 
> More stock prep today. I got another ash board and cut it into lengths. 30" long with straight grain for slats to go in each level beneath the plastic laundry basket in the hamper, another 30" with a knot in the middle of it to be resawed into two pieces for the top, and a piece bout a foot long with a few checks in it that will probably end up being stock for a future small box.
> 
> ...


Looks like a good day Dave, resawed and planed down. I am finding the Ash nice to work with, really like the straight grain in it.

When I was planing the Maple to get a good even edge, I ran into the same problem in the grain, a few spots where I had to change the direction.

Keep up the good work.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats & top*
> 
> More stock prep today. I got another ash board and cut it into lengths. 30" long with straight grain for slats to go in each level beneath the plastic laundry basket in the hamper, another 30" with a knot in the middle of it to be resawed into two pieces for the top, and a piece bout a foot long with a few checks in it that will probably end up being stock for a future small box.
> 
> ...


Well, mostly planed down. I've got all six pieces that are going to be the top to get planed yet, plus the wider sides of about a dozen slats.

I like ash. Plus, with the emerald ash borer, it's going to get harder to find. Might as well work with it now.

Thanks, Eric.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats & top*
> 
> More stock prep today. I got another ash board and cut it into lengths. 30" long with straight grain for slats to go in each level beneath the plastic laundry basket in the hamper, another 30" with a knot in the middle of it to be resawed into two pieces for the top, and a piece bout a foot long with a few checks in it that will probably end up being stock for a future small box.
> 
> ...


Almost sounds like one foot forward and 2 back but you got a good handle on it. Some nice straight grained ash there.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Slats & top*
> 
> More stock prep today. I got another ash board and cut it into lengths. 30" long with straight grain for slats to go in each level beneath the plastic laundry basket in the hamper, another 30" with a knot in the middle of it to be resawed into two pieces for the top, and a piece bout a foot long with a few checks in it that will probably end up being stock for a future small box.
> 
> ...


Yeah, most of it's pretty good, Dave. I picked out three ash boards last time I was at the lumber yard, each with some flaw, and I've managed to get nice straight stock out of over half of it. The other is the stuff with prettier, but gnarly grain that will end up being the top and some smaller pieces for future projects.

Going to have to go lumber shopping again soon, though. Oh darn.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Starting the shelves*

I've reached the part of the project where some precision is needed, so between that, some household chores, and spending yesterday afternoon serving meals to people evacuated from their homes in Las Vegas, NM, progress hasn't been especially speedy.

If you remember way back when I started this project, I think I showed a drawing of how it would go together. Here it is again in case you don't remember.










Each (plastic) laundry basket will sit on a shelf, which will be held by a pair of horizontal cross bars, which will have tenons on the ends, which will fit into a matching mortise on the uprights. The cross-bars will also carry the doors. I decided that I would make these mortises 1/4 inch wide, by 1/2 inch high, centered on the cross bar. And they'll be 1/2 inch long. So I set up the table saw to make 1/4" deep cuts, with the fence 1/2" from the far side of the blade. And I cut some tenons.










They were more like 3/8 rather than 1/4, so I got out my dovetail saw and fine-tuned them, then cleaned them up with a Clifton 3110 shoulder plane (which I bought just for this project - I'm going to have a lot of tenons that need cleaning up, right?).

Tenons sorted, I marked out where the slats would fit into the cross-bars. They'll be spaced so seven of them fill the just under 21 inches of the cross bar. Seven is easy because I can just split things in half a few times, and I'm done.










Now I needed a jig to make holes for the mortises 1/4 from the top edge of the cross-bar. I took a scrap of ash and drilled a hole, then used the band-saw to cut out a notch such that the edge of the hole is 1/4 inch from the edge of the notch. I'll use that to drill the pilot holes for the mortises, and then square them off with a chisel. Should be pretty easy to keep things accurate that way.



















And that's about it for today. It's time to run to the Friday afternoon farmers market soon, and then when I get home it'll be time to cook dinner. More next time, including gang-cutting the tenons on the slats, and drilling holes for some mortises.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Starting the shelves*
> 
> I've reached the part of the project where some precision is needed, so between that, some household chores, and spending yesterday afternoon serving meals to people evacuated from their homes in Las Vegas, NM, progress hasn't been especially speedy.
> 
> ...


Dave, I like the memory test with the drawing posted again, spot on. Seems like anymore I need to leave a trail of crumbs when I leave the house. 
The hamper is coming along nicely, good thought process you've used in this design while building project.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Starting the shelves*
> 
> I've reached the part of the project where some precision is needed, so between that, some household chores, and spending yesterday afternoon serving meals to people evacuated from their homes in Las Vegas, NM, progress hasn't been especially speedy.
> 
> ...


Yeah, Tom. I generally have a sketch of whatever it is I'm supposed to be working on blue-taped up right in front of me at the bench so I know what to do when I get to the shop. Doesn't always mean that's what I *do* work on, but at least I know when I'm taking a diversion.

I think the design is coming together. I still haven't figured out exactly how the sides are going to be, but either some sort of slats or maybe I'll just drill ventilation holes in a piece of 1/4" plywood. See how I feel when I get to that point. I think tomorrow is a "going shopping in town" day, which generally means very little shop time. Plus I'm working on two different miniature fireplace screens to see what my sweetie prefers for that.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Starting the shelves*
> 
> I've reached the part of the project where some precision is needed, so between that, some household chores, and spending yesterday afternoon serving meals to people evacuated from their homes in Las Vegas, NM, progress hasn't been especially speedy.
> 
> ...


Looks like that is going to be solid on the joinery Dave. Great ideas, and keeping a sketch handy is always a good thing. I have a drawer full of sketches and patterns. I have been trying to make notes on a pad for small projects that I do. Hit or miss with that.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Starting the shelves*
> 
> I've reached the part of the project where some precision is needed, so between that, some household chores, and spending yesterday afternoon serving meals to people evacuated from their homes in Las Vegas, NM, progress hasn't been especially speedy.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Eric. Going to be a lot of mortises and tenons before I'm done, but yeah, I'm hoping it'll be solid.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Chopping and paring*

Finally got some shop time this morning, and I spent it chopping mortises and paring tenons. Got all of them done for one of the two shelves, plus cut the end-tenons on the cross-pieces that will make up the front and back of the two shelves.










Between the chopping, the prying, and then paring the sides of the tenons, the socket chisel kept coming apart and driving me nuts. I ordered a new 1/4" chisel, and we'll see if I like that better. If not, I might end up grinding a piece of O-1 into shape and making my own.

Tomorrow I'll get mortises and tenons cut for the second shelf (they're all 1/4" square, which makes the 1/4" chisel get a lot of use), and maybe glue together the two shelves.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Chopping and paring*
> 
> Finally got some shop time this morning, and I spent it chopping mortises and paring tenons. Got all of them done for one of the two shelves, plus cut the end-tenons on the cross-pieces that will make up the front and back of the two shelves.
> 
> ...


That's a lot of small mortise to cut Dave, it looks like you did well. Is that chisel one of the new ones you received? If so that's not good.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Chopping and paring*
> 
> Finally got some shop time this morning, and I spent it chopping mortises and paring tenons. Got all of them done for one of the two shelves, plus cut the end-tenons on the cross-pieces that will make up the front and back of the two shelves.
> 
> ...


Yeah, Eric. They go pretty quick, since I drill them to the right depth with a 1/4" drill, then just square them with the chisel. And yeah, it's the chisel I recently rehandled. I think I just don't like socket chisels for chopping mortises. Got an Iles one and a Japanese white steel chisel. We'll see what I end up liking best.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Chopping and paring*
> 
> Finally got some shop time this morning, and I spent it chopping mortises and paring tenons. Got all of them done for one of the two shelves, plus cut the end-tenons on the cross-pieces that will make up the front and back of the two shelves.
> 
> ...


A lot of repetition here Dave, but that is good practice. If you do make a chisel as mentioned, make sure to blog the process.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Chopping and paring*
> 
> Finally got some shop time this morning, and I spent it chopping mortises and paring tenons. Got all of them done for one of the two shelves, plus cut the end-tenons on the cross-pieces that will make up the front and back of the two shelves.
> 
> ...


Here's a thought Dave. If you end up making your own chisel, maybe shape it to be a corner chisel.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Chopping and paring*
> 
> Finally got some shop time this morning, and I spent it chopping mortises and paring tenons. Got all of them done for one of the two shelves, plus cut the end-tenons on the cross-pieces that will make up the front and back of the two shelves.
> 
> ...


Yeah, Tom. That's part of why I've had trouble making progress, but I did something to my right hand last week (initially thought it was arthritis acting up) too, and this is exactly the sort of work that's tough without a good grip.

I got as far as digging through my stock yesterday. Appears I have 1/4" square HSS, but no O-1 and only one dead file that might be a good parent for a 1/4" chisel. I'll probably see if I can anneal that file and cut off a 1/4"-ish piece one of these days. Or maybe I'll order a blank closer to the right size.

A corner chisel is probably more ambitious than I'm willing to bite off now, Eric.


----------



## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Chopping and paring*
> 
> Finally got some shop time this morning, and I spent it chopping mortises and paring tenons. Got all of them done for one of the two shelves, plus cut the end-tenons on the cross-pieces that will make up the front and back of the two shelves.
> 
> ...


Tried lacquer or hairspray?
Spray on the socket, knock it together, let it dry - you can still get it apart if you need to, but it holds better.

Not a fan of socket chisels myself though, always feel like they are a toe amputation waiting to happen.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Chopping and paring*
> 
> Finally got some shop time this morning, and I spent it chopping mortises and paring tenons. Got all of them done for one of the two shelves, plus cut the end-tenons on the cross-pieces that will make up the front and back of the two shelves.
> 
> ...


I've tried hairspray, but not recently. And not going to buy more at this point.

The real problem with the socket chisels is that I'm paring and prying and using the small ones as mortise chisels. Really ought to be using something with a tang.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*More mortises & tenons*

Pretty much a rerun of yesterday, but with more pictures.

For each of the cross-bars that will hold a shelf, I started by cutting the length right, then rough-cutting the tenon with the table saw.










I use a shoulder plane to trim the tenon down to size. I'm aiming for 1/4" x 5/8", though the latter could go as small as 1/2" without problems.










Once the quarter inch dimension is done, I pare off the other dimension with my quarter-inch wide chisel, trying to keep the tenon more or less centered on the piece.










And that's close enough.










Then I look at the sides of the bar, and decide which will be the top, and which will be the inside. I use the first bar I made as a template for marking everything off.










First mark where the edge of my jig will go for the holes.



















Then mark a line 1/4" from the top with a marking gauge.










And darken it with a pencil.










Then drill the holes (yeah, I know, there's a hole in that picture above. Oops!), aligning the jig with the line I drew, but keeping the line visible.










And then drilling the hole.










After that I set the 1/4" chisel on each edge of the drilled hole, and give it three taps with the mallet, which takes it to the bottom of the hole. I leave the waste in the bottom of the hole (I aimed for 1/2" deep with my depth guide on the drill bit) until I've chopped all four sides of all seven holes in the cross-piece, then I remove the cross-piece from the vise, and knock out the waste.

Then I take a straight 6mm gouge and clean out any remaining bits of waste. Gravity helps remove the waste from the mortise.

Next up, I'll walk through the tenons.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *More mortises & tenons*
> 
> Pretty much a rerun of yesterday, but with more pictures.
> 
> ...


Have you ever thought about using a 1/4" hollow chisel from a mortise machine to drive in after drilling the quarter inch hole? Just a thought.


----------



## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

DavePolaschek said:


> *More mortises & tenons*
> 
> Pretty much a rerun of yesterday, but with more pictures.
> 
> ...


Looks like you have it well planned out. Just lot more cutting….............cheers, JIm


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *More mortises & tenons*
> 
> Pretty much a rerun of yesterday, but with more pictures.
> 
> ...


Not really, Tom. I think I'm pretty competent with a normal chisel, and I'm getting square holes pretty quickly, so I don't want to complicate it too much. I'm almost a year into this project, and need to keep moving to ensure domestic tranquility.

Thanks, Jim. I'm trying a bunch of things that are at, or slightly beyond my competence level, but there's no real rocket surgery here, just grinding things out, and getting better at them as I go. I do still need to figure out what the side panels are going to look like, but the fallback position there is plywood with holes in it to breathe.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *More mortises & tenons*
> 
> Pretty much a rerun of yesterday, but with more pictures.
> 
> ...


Choose them boards wisely, you don't want the bad ones facing the outside. LOL.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *More mortises & tenons*
> 
> Pretty much a rerun of yesterday, but with more pictures.
> 
> ...


Tried to, Dave. But there are a lot of sticks and I bet I get at least one where I'll kick myself later for putting it in wrong way around. ;-)


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *More mortises & tenons*
> 
> Pretty much a rerun of yesterday, but with more pictures.
> 
> ...


LOL. I've done the same thing. After carefully selecting the way it should be laid out I end up reversing it somewhere.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *More mortises & tenons*
> 
> Pretty much a rerun of yesterday, but with more pictures.
> 
> ...


Yep. Hopefully it'll just be something like a knot showing where I'd rather have clear grain, but we'll see. I'm ingenious in finding new and exciting ways to screw things up.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Cleaning up tenons*

I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:










I start by making a stop-cut (but with a chisel) in the sides of the tenon so I won't split past what should be the shoulder.










Then I narrow the tenon so it's 1/4" wide by paring down both sides. I'm continually checking the width against the width of the chisel, which was used to make the mortises.










With the width of the tenon correct, it's time to correct its height. I don't need stop-cuts here, as I've already got a shoulder, and I can refine it later by paring the end-grain. The important thing is getting the top of the tenon 1/4" from the top edge of the slat. Luckily, I have a 1/4" measure right there in my hand!










With the top edge of the tenon correct, I measure the height of it, and trim the bottom edge.










And then it's just a matter of test-fitting it in the matching mortise. I can generally see which side is off and adjust by paring a little. After the two ends of the slat are done, I label them both with pencil so I don't accidentally reverse a slat or swap two of them.










With all 28 mortises and tenons done for the slats, I can glue up the two shelves. I'm going to need to think a little about how to clamp them to ensure they stay square, but worst case, I'll put a couple screws into the bench top to index things. But first I have to help clean the house a bit, since we're having some neighbors over for dinner this evening, and apparently someone has tracked a bunch of wood chips into the house.


----------



## recycle1943 (Dec 16, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Cleaning up tenons*
> 
> I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:
> 
> ...


Dave, I know there's some pleasure in doing it the hard way but I get anxious just thinking about this trip. My table saw and or router would have been pretty busy.
I do however applaud your tenacity and skill


----------



## DanLyke (Feb 8, 2007)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Cleaning up tenons*
> 
> I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:
> 
> ...


Looking good, and it's looking like you're having enough fun that now I want to hand-cut something like this rather than just slapping in Dominos…


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Cleaning up tenons*
> 
> I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:
> 
> ...


Dick, I rough-cut the tenons with the table saw. But my cheap Harbor Freight TS isn't repeatable enough to get the precision I want. Especially since the slats vary in size (not by a lot, but by more than sixteenth). Thanks!

If it's any consolation, these are the last of the 1/4 inch square tenons. From here on, most tenons will be either 1/4×5/8 or half-inch square.

Thanks, Dan. It's not that hard, and yes, it's fun. I figure with the 24 mortises (and matching tenons) to hold the shelves, plus mortises and tenons holding the top on this, I'll need to sharpen my chisels at least once, but I'm enjoying the process and building skills as I go. The slats for the second shelf took about a third less time than those for the first shelf.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Cleaning up tenons*
> 
> I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:
> 
> ...


I wish I had all that P and vinegar to do things by hand. Since my surgery I take the easiest way out. Its looking mighty fine.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Cleaning up tenons*
> 
> I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:
> 
> ...


Read all the way through your blog, then BAM !!!, the last sentence hit me like an out of control freight train, right between the eyes -LOL. My wife finds all sorts of chips and dust and crap all over the house and sure as my right index finger is a half inch short from a router accident, I get the blame. Amazing how everything my wife finds, which she didn't put there, came from my shop. Can't win!


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## recycle1943 (Dec 16, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Cleaning up tenons*
> 
> I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:
> 
> ...





> Dick, I rough-cut the tenons with the table saw. But my cheap *Harbor Freight TS* isn't repeatable enough to get the precision I want. Especially since the slats vary in size (not by a lot, but by more than sixteenth). Thanks!
> - Dave Polaschek


Dave, I guess I'm just flat out spoiled. I have a new Delta 36L-336 with an Incra TS - LS fence system.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Cleaning up tenons*
> 
> I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave! With my right hand giving me trouble the past week, I started thinking about how I'd do things not by hand. I'm not entirely sure I'd stick with woodworking if I couldn't push the hand tools around.

Tom, I'm glad to help! ;-) I've got multiple welcome mats on the way from the shop to the house, plus 30 feet of gravel driveway and a handful of steps, and somehow wood chips still manage to make it inside. Oh well, it's been a few weeks since I found one in my shorts, so there's that to be thankful for!

Guess so, Dick. Different strokes, and all that. This was kind of an experiment, too. In the past, I would've cut the tenons entirely with a dovetail (or perhaps a tenon) saw. Using the TS to rough them and then a chisel to fine-tune them may or may not have been quicker, but I know for sure it was a lot messier.


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## recycle1943 (Dec 16, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Cleaning up tenons*
> 
> I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:
> 
> ...


Different strokes alright and you had to have gotten all of mine because there's no way I coUld do that by hand unless there's points for scrap


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## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Cleaning up tenons*
> 
> I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:
> 
> ...


Looking good Dave, all the power to you for the hand cuts, great job. Those chips find the way into the house here also.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Cleaning up tenons*
> 
> I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:
> 
> ...


Well, it's a hobby to keep me from getting bored. Getting done faster isn't always a good thing for me.

Thanks, Eric. Wish I had more time these past couple weeks. I feel like I've been making good progress when I can get out to the shop, but I've been helping in the yard more, which is cutting into my shop time. Oh well.


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## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Cleaning up tenons*
> 
> I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:
> 
> ...


Thought you'd have filed/rasped them square the way you tweak dovetails.
Backer piece on the file to make it 1/4 inch wide for a reference.

Fidly little things thoug, looking nice and neat.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Cleaning up tenons*
> 
> I have rough-cut tenons on the ends of the shelf slats, but they're going to be going into 1/4 inch square mortises. Perhaps you can see the problem with that in this picture:
> 
> ...


Could done that, Mike. But the chisel worked pretty well, and the fit when I glued everything together this morning was "good enough."


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Gluing the shelves*

Short day in the shop (again) today, but I got the two shelves glued up. Getting 14 mortise and tenon joints put together all at once wasn't too bad, but there were a couple times I wished I had another hand. Used my dice mallet to tap things together before putting the whole assembly into the clamps.










Also had to be careful not to over-tighten the clamps and bow the slats. Basically I did over-tighten them, then backed off until the slat straightened out, then checked for square and tapped things to make the adjustment. I sure do like having a bunch of 3 foot long clamps.


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## adot45 (Sep 9, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Gluing the shelves*
> 
> Short day in the shop (again) today, but I got the two shelves glued up. Getting 14 mortise and tenon joints put together all at once wasn't too bad, but there were a couple times I wished I had another hand. Used my dice mallet to tap things together before putting the whole assembly into the clamps.
> 
> ...


So far so good eh Dave. I'll be watching this.


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Gluing the shelves*
> 
> Short day in the shop (again) today, but I got the two shelves glued up. Getting 14 mortise and tenon joints put together all at once wasn't too bad, but there were a couple times I wished I had another hand. Used my dice mallet to tap things together before putting the whole assembly into the clamps.
> 
> ...


I sure do like having a bunch of 3 foot long clamps. as the old adage states, you can never have enough clamps.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Gluing the shelves*
> 
> Short day in the shop (again) today, but I got the two shelves glued up. Getting 14 mortise and tenon joints put together all at once wasn't too bad, but there were a couple times I wished I had another hand. Used my dice mallet to tap things together before putting the whole assembly into the clamps.
> 
> ...


Thanks, guys.

Indeed, Tom. Bought eight more clamps last week, but they were shorties and probably won't get used on this project.


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## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Gluing the shelves*
> 
> Short day in the shop (again) today, but I got the two shelves glued up. Getting 14 mortise and tenon joints put together all at once wasn't too bad, but there were a couple times I wished I had another hand. Used my dice mallet to tap things together before putting the whole assembly into the clamps.
> 
> ...


You are making progress there Dave, now I seeing how this is going together. Well done. Oh, like those clamps your using, with the small butterfly wings.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Gluing the shelves*
> 
> Short day in the shop (again) today, but I got the two shelves glued up. Getting 14 mortise and tenon joints put together all at once wasn't too bad, but there were a couple times I wished I had another hand. Used my dice mallet to tap things together before putting the whole assembly into the clamps.
> 
> ...


Yeah, these two shelves will each hold a plastic (for now) laundry basket inside a frame and panel carcasse. The slats run front to back (so the basket will slide easily), and each door will be hinged to the front of each shelf and fold down.

The clamps are Dubuque universal bar clamps in the three-foot length. I've got a dozen of them. Probably will get a few four-footers and six-footers one of these days, but they have expensive shipping, so I keep thinking maybe next time I'm in Colorado Springs I'll swing by the Woodcraft and get them in person.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Gluing the shelves*
> 
> Short day in the shop (again) today, but I got the two shelves glued up. Getting 14 mortise and tenon joints put together all at once wasn't too bad, but there were a couple times I wished I had another hand. Used my dice mallet to tap things together before putting the whole assembly into the clamps.
> 
> ...


Moving right along I see Dave. Nice clamps by the way too. In the picture the third one down still looks like there's a slight bow. At least you don't over tighten.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Gluing the shelves*
> 
> Short day in the shop (again) today, but I got the two shelves glued up. Getting 14 mortise and tenon joints put together all at once wasn't too bad, but there were a couple times I wished I had another hand. Used my dice mallet to tap things together before putting the whole assembly into the clamps.
> 
> ...


Yeah, Dave. Thanks! There is a slight bow, but I think it'll spring back when I unclamp things later today (got errands to run this morning). Or it'll be a little bowed forever, which will be ok, too. It's definitely hand-built, and the slats vary in thickness from 17/64 up to about 21/64, but the whole assembly looks pretty good, and once I do the final touch-up sanding on the top of it, it should look good. I'll probably be oiling these while I'm getting the top put together.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Shelf decorations*

The shelf fronts will be exposed, and will have the doors attached to them (piano hinge on the top, I'm pretty sure). So I figured it was time to decorate them before I went any farther. But first I needed to clean them up. There were marks from my layout on them, and a few glue boogers. Time to get rid of those.










The doors have fairly simple-looking frames, so I figured I could go a little more ornate with the shelf fronts.










I started by using a forstner bit to put a circle in the middle of each front. And I figured I'd do thumbnails, as they're relatively simple.










Once I'd cut the first couple (using a pfeil 7/14 gouge), I laid out the rest and chopped the stop-cuts.










I carved the rest, mostly with the gouge and mallet (this is ash, after all), and then cleaning up by hand.










After a little break to sharpen, the second shelf-front went pretty quick, since I had already practiced on the first.










And then I may need to cut one more bar that size to fit above the upper door, below the top. Not certain if I'll actually use it or not, but since I'm already busy carving, I figure I might as well.

In the process, I inadvertently gave a good example of what happens if you don't get one of your stop cuts deep enough.


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Shelf decorations*
> 
> The shelf fronts will be exposed, and will have the doors attached to them (piano hinge on the top, I'm pretty sure). So I figured it was time to decorate them before I went any farther. But first I needed to clean them up. There were marks from my layout on them, and a few glue boogers. Time to get rid of those.
> 
> ...


Looks pretty good Dave. A shame about the chip out, still have the piece to glue it in?
If I were to try that on first attempt it would be one loooooong thumbnail.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Shelf decorations*
> 
> The shelf fronts will be exposed, and will have the doors attached to them (piano hinge on the top, I'm pretty sure). So I figured it was time to decorate them before I went any farther. But first I needed to clean them up. There were marks from my layout on them, and a few glue boogers. Time to get rid of those.
> 
> ...


Nope, Dave. Or rather, I do, but it's on the floor with a bunch of other chips. Oh well. I might just turn this piece around and carve the other side.


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Shelf decorations*
> 
> The shelf fronts will be exposed, and will have the doors attached to them (piano hinge on the top, I'm pretty sure). So I figured it was time to decorate them before I went any farther. But first I needed to clean them up. There were marks from my layout on them, and a few glue boogers. Time to get rid of those.
> 
> ...


Your approach to projects is similar to mine, in thar I always try to think of any imbelishment that could be added, simply to permit me using some of the many tools I've acquired, especially the molding planes. Usually I come up dry, particularly the projects I make by request for family members. Ah well!


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Shelf decorations*
> 
> The shelf fronts will be exposed, and will have the doors attached to them (piano hinge on the top, I'm pretty sure). So I figured it was time to decorate them before I went any farther. But first I needed to clean them up. There were marks from my layout on them, and a few glue boogers. Time to get rid of those.
> 
> ...


There's that, but there's also the fact that I haven't yet decided what the uprights are going to look like yet (particularly the feet), and that was the other thing I was thinking of working on this morning. So embellishing the cross-bars gave me time to think, plus I think it'll be a touch my sweetie will like.

Tomorrow will either be the uprights or time to finish flattening the pieces for the top, which probably means sharpening a plane blade first. But I need to get those flattened and glued up one of these days, too. Though I've been pondering buying a planer or a drum sander, either of which would make that process faster (and messier). Probably I'll tackle them by hand, but you never know…

For the uprights, they'll be getting a treatment from my LN-66 beading tool. Have to figure out which blade will make a good look on those, but I'm pretty sure that's going to work where the combination plane wouldn't on the uprights (at least not without building a jig). Plus I still need to figure out the feet.

Oh! I just remembered that my new neighbor who moved here from SF, CA wanted to go check out the lumber yard I shop at one of these days, too. Maybe that'll be my morning adventure tomorrow…


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## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Shelf decorations*
> 
> The shelf fronts will be exposed, and will have the doors attached to them (piano hinge on the top, I'm pretty sure). So I figured it was time to decorate them before I went any farther. But first I needed to clean them up. There were marks from my layout on them, and a few glue boogers. Time to get rid of those.
> 
> ...


That's looking good Dave, the carving really adds to it. Too bad about the chip.


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## sawdust1whisperer (Nov 11, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Shelf decorations*
> 
> The shelf fronts will be exposed, and will have the doors attached to them (piano hinge on the top, I'm pretty sure). So I figured it was time to decorate them before I went any farther. But first I needed to clean them up. There were marks from my layout on them, and a few glue boogers. Time to get rid of those.
> 
> ...


It looks good Dave. I heard about the big chip. Sorry.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Shelf decorations*
> 
> The shelf fronts will be exposed, and will have the doors attached to them (piano hinge on the top, I'm pretty sure). So I figured it was time to decorate them before I went any farther. But first I needed to clean them up. There were marks from my layout on them, and a few glue boogers. Time to get rid of those.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Eric! It'll be fine. I'll probably just carve the "back" side of that piece, so I get another crack at it. But that's why that wasn't a piece I picked for one of the shelves, the grain was kinda wonky.

Thanks, James! It'll work out.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Front uprights*

Not wanting to tackle flattening the pieces of resawed ash that will become the top of the hamper in the heat today, I decided to work on the front legs / uprights. I've decided I'm going to turn feet for the front legs (which are going to be 48" floor to top, but I only have a 33" bed on my lathe, so I'll likely turn separate feet, then glue them on and chop off some of the upright), but I also wanted some decoration on the front. Which works out well, because using a beading tool, as I'm going to, the first couple inches and last couple inches might not look the greatest. But hey, if one end is going to be hiding next to the top, and the other is going to be chopped off to make room for turned feet, all is well!

I started by picking a profile that looked right to me. It's not my widest bead in the 66, but it's the second widest.










Then I set the fence so it looked pretty darn close to centered on the leg I'm working on. I double checked by indexing off both sides of the leg and making sure the bead ended up in the same place. This is important because the beading tool often works better one direction than the other, but I've found that I get the best results working both ways.

So I started from one end and made a couple passes.










Then came to the other end and made a couple passes.










I switched back and forth until I had pretty good grooves in the wood, and then I started doing a half-dozen passes from each direction, using a paint brush to sweep out the shavings every time I turned around.

After a while, I was getting close.










When this happens, you'll often find that some spots are done (and have a rounded top in the middle) while others still show a flat on the bead. If the blade is set so the top of the cut is even with the base of the tool, you've got a built-in depth-stop and all is well. Usually I'm a bit off, so I'll end up concentrating on the spots that still show a flat top. The sound of the cut also changes when you finish the profile.










Nice, but not quite done.

I dug through my gouges, and found one with about the same width and curve as the bead I had just cut. It turned out to be an Ashley Iles 9/10 gouge.










I then marked off lines every two inches on the bead, and made two stab-cuts with the gouge (at about a 60 degree angle, aiming to meet right under the line) with the mallet.










With these cuts, if you can get all the way to the bottom of the quirks along the side of the bead, that will be best.










Then I made cuts by hand, at about a 45 degree angle, nibbling a bit off the end of each side, and cleaning up the corners.










That looked okay to me.










Lather, rinse, repeat down the leg, and I've got a string of frankfurters or something. I think it'll look good on the legs and won't collect too much dust.










Did the second one, and called it a morning. Even with the mini-split running in the shop, I was pretty sweaty. Time to rehydrate and get some lunch. Maybe I'll turn a couple feet this afternoon.


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Front uprights*
> 
> Not wanting to tackle flattening the pieces of resawed ash that will become the top of the hamper in the heat today, I decided to work on the front legs / uprights. I've decided I'm going to turn feet for the front legs (which are going to be 48" floor to top, but I only have a 33" bed on my lathe, so I'll likely turn separate feet, then glue them on and chop off some of the upright), but I also wanted some decoration on the front. Which works out well, because using a beading tool, as I'm going to, the first couple inches and last couple inches might not look the greatest. But hey, if one end is going to be hiding next to the top, and the other is going to be chopped off to make room for turned feet, all is well!
> 
> ...


Nice work.
I remember the first time I learned about scratch stocks, was reading a woodworking magazine. I thought - how simple, yet so cool. Any shape can be created by simply filing the desired profile on any old piece of tool steel - like old hand saw blades, and mounting it in a home made fence device. 
Nice to use, no noise, and definitely makes a one of a kind profile, unique to the user. Then to further enhance the piece with the gouge, great work.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Front uprights*
> 
> Not wanting to tackle flattening the pieces of resawed ash that will become the top of the hamper in the heat today, I decided to work on the front legs / uprights. I've decided I'm going to turn feet for the front legs (which are going to be 48" floor to top, but I only have a 33" bed on my lathe, so I'll likely turn separate feet, then glue them on and chop off some of the upright), but I also wanted some decoration on the front. Which works out well, because using a beading tool, as I'm going to, the first couple inches and last couple inches might not look the greatest. But hey, if one end is going to be hiding next to the top, and the other is going to be chopped off to make room for turned feet, all is well!
> 
> ...


Thanks. Yeah, they're kinda magical. Turns out, steel is harder than wood. Who knew?!

The gouge work also helps distract the eye from any bobbles in the bead. Bonus!


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Front uprights*
> 
> Not wanting to tackle flattening the pieces of resawed ash that will become the top of the hamper in the heat today, I decided to work on the front legs / uprights. I've decided I'm going to turn feet for the front legs (which are going to be 48" floor to top, but I only have a 33" bed on my lathe, so I'll likely turn separate feet, then glue them on and chop off some of the upright), but I also wanted some decoration on the front. Which works out well, because using a beading tool, as I'm going to, the first couple inches and last couple inches might not look the greatest. But hey, if one end is going to be hiding next to the top, and the other is going to be chopped off to make room for turned feet, all is well!
> 
> ...


You a very patient craftsman Dave.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Front uprights*
> 
> Not wanting to tackle flattening the pieces of resawed ash that will become the top of the hamper in the heat today, I decided to work on the front legs / uprights. I've decided I'm going to turn feet for the front legs (which are going to be 48" floor to top, but I only have a 33" bed on my lathe, so I'll likely turn separate feet, then glue them on and chop off some of the upright), but I also wanted some decoration on the front. Which works out well, because using a beading tool, as I'm going to, the first couple inches and last couple inches might not look the greatest. But hey, if one end is going to be hiding next to the top, and the other is going to be chopped off to make room for turned feet, all is well!
> 
> ...


Thanks, Peter! That sounds much better than saying I'm slow. ;-)


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Top*

Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).

Yesterday, my new DeWalt 735 planer arrived and I got it set up this morning and cleaned up all those boards (I generally have tried to do this by hand in the past, but a couple of these boards bowed so much, I didn't even end up with 1/4 of thickness after flattening them, so hiring a tailed apprentice was in order).

After processing the stack of boards, and picking out the four I liked most for the top of my laundry hamper, I glued them together to make a 20-some by 30-some inch piece. I'll hand flatten this, and I may back it with a piece of 1/4" plywood, but this is what it'll look like (minus the clamps and battens). I think I like it!


----------



## oldrivers (Feb 10, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


Very Nic and interesting grain patterns.


----------



## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


I like it - I think I'd have tried to add another of the wild grain ones on the right if I could get away with it, a sort of controlled chaos type of thing, but I like it - lot of interesting swirl going on there.


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## recycle1943 (Dec 16, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


great patterns Dave - I think I see why it jumped and bowed. It looks like the boards are from a crotch or a limb out of the main trunk. I've found some patterns like that just go absolutely nuts when you releive them any little bit and resawing really shook them up.

Did you order your Byrd Shelix Head for the DW735 yet ? It's the best investment I ever made. I got one for a friend last week for his 735 - $535 delivered


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


Thanks, Oldrivers!

I didn't have another crazy one for the right, Mike (I've got multiple projects going, so some are going to other things…). But I think I'll be trimming off part of the relatively boring one from the right. And I'm thinking maybe breadboard ends will stiffen it up. Still in progress.

Thanks, Dick. Yeah, I've been vulturing up some ash boards at the local lumber yard, and talking them down on the crazy grained ones that have been rejected by other people. "There's not even a full BF of straight grained lumber in there! How about selling it to me for a 20?" I figure it can't hurt to ask!

I've got a spare set of blades for the factory head (it was an open box, and someone had already installed the cutters, plus there was a new set included, so bonus!), and can't see doubling my investment just yet, and with the Shelix heads 38-48 weeks out, I don't see where I need to hurry to order one. I'll at least use up the first set of cutters before I think about an upgrade.


----------



## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


That is some wild grain, but it looks wonderful. Great find in the boards.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


Thanks, Eric. I mostly let other people find that sort of thing for me by rejecting it and throwing it to the side of the stack of "good lumber."


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## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


Makes sense. When I am picking up building material I always check every board. Toss the crooked ones to the back.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


Yep. Someone has to buy those, and I'm that guy. ;-)


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


Nice looking panel glue up, the figure in these boards is fantastic. 
I think you're going to enjoy the Dewalt, flattening all your working material by hand is fun at first, but after a few hours it kinda reminds you your not a young man anymore. At least that's the effect it has on me. I'm very happy to use my planner after rough hand flattening stock on one side, I don't need to beef up for the babes anymore.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


Thanks, Tom! Even the "boring" boards have pretty nice figure.

And yeah, I'm ok with hiring a tailed apprentice. But I still like when I have the time and get in the groove flattening something by hand, too.

And I don't have to beef up for the babes, but my doctor likes it when I've been working hard with hand-tools. Sigh.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


I can see there's a lot going on in that glue up, but sometimes you get lucky and it stays flat. I agree also , we woodworkers look for those ugly boards. It's gotten to the point that it's easy to find the nice ones. LOL.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


I'm sure hoping it'll stay flat, Dave. I put on the cauls before tightening down the clamps, and had hand-jointed the edges before clamping it. But if it decides to get wild, I've got a chunk of 6mm Baltic birch I could back it with, or I might put on heavier breadboard ends. We'll see how it goes.


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


Gorgeous timber Dave. 
Top purchase the Dewalt DW735, I've had mine over 10yrs. I did an upgrade to a Byrd Shelix Cutterhead 6yrs ago and wow, from good machine to great machine. So much quieter with hand smooth finish even on old recycled Aussie hardwood.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


Thanks, Peter. Given how much folks rave bout those, I'll probably order one once I dull my first set of cutters.


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## adot45 (Sep 9, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


That's some fine looking wood Dave, I'm really getting to like Ash.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave. The one with the swirly crazy grain didn't look that cool on the surface, but when I sliced it open, wow!


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## recycle1943 (Dec 16, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...





> Thanks, Oldrivers!
> 
> I didn't have another crazy one for the right, Mike (I've got multiple projects going, so some are going to other things…). But I think I'll be trimming off part of the relatively boring one from the right. And I'm thinking maybe breadboard ends will stiffen it up. Still in progress.
> 
> ...


If you want a Shelix I can probably get one within a few days to your door. The last one I got was 3 days and it's still sitting on the floor, he doesn't have time to install it. Too much hay - If your interested I'll check


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Top*
> 
> Over the past few weeks, I've been picking through my ash boards for pieces with interesting grain. Stuff that would be rejected if I'm looking for strength. And I've been resawing it all to 3/8 inch thick, figuring that would get me a quarter-inch finished board, even with the crazy way some of this wood bows when resawed (most of it was initially flat-sawn in either 4/4 or 5/4 boards).
> 
> ...


I think I'll hold off, Dick, but thanks! As I said, I've still got two sets of blades, and I think I'll wear one of those sets out before I worry about upgrading.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Breadboard ends on top*

Been slow progress the past week. We went up to Colorado to visit some friends, and then the monsoon started here in NM and that meant lots of weeds that needed pulling.

But I've been making some progress on the top for the laundry hamper. The boards I glued up wouldn't have quite been long enough, and there were some checks, so I decided to put breadboard ends on them. I resawed another piece of ash to two 3/4 inch thick pieces, and cut a 1/4" groove in the edges of each board.

Voilá, breadboard ends!










I'll trim the edge to final width once I've done my first dry-fit of the carcass, and then I'll trim both breadboard ends an equal amount so things fit. I'll probably plane the ends down a bit so they have some sort of profile rather than just being flat, but we'll see what happens.


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Breadboard ends on top*
> 
> Been slow progress the past week. We went up to Colorado to visit some friends, and then the monsoon started here in NM and that meant lots of weeds that needed pulling.
> 
> ...


Breadboard ends look great and like they were intended from the start.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Breadboard ends on top*
> 
> Been slow progress the past week. We went up to Colorado to visit some friends, and then the monsoon started here in NM and that meant lots of weeds that needed pulling.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Tom! In the immortal words of PeeWee Herman, "I meant to do that!"


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Breadboard ends on top*
> 
> Been slow progress the past week. We went up to Colorado to visit some friends, and then the monsoon started here in NM and that meant lots of weeds that needed pulling.
> 
> ...


When you have to I'm all for the breadboards ends Dave. Good solution and I think it will look great.


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## crowie (Jan 21, 2013)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Breadboard ends on top*
> 
> Been slow progress the past week. We went up to Colorado to visit some friends, and then the monsoon started here in NM and that meant lots of weeds that needed pulling.
> 
> ...


Certainly a beautiful piece of timber Dave.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Breadboard ends on top*
> 
> Been slow progress the past week. We went up to Colorado to visit some friends, and then the monsoon started here in NM and that meant lots of weeds that needed pulling.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave! It's certainly better than not reaching. ;-)

Thanks, Peter! Coming together slowly, and I'm pretty pleased with how all the various pieces are looking.


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## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Breadboard ends on top*
> 
> Been slow progress the past week. We went up to Colorado to visit some friends, and then the monsoon started here in NM and that meant lots of weeds that needed pulling.
> 
> ...


Looks good Dave, the breadboard set off the wild grain in the center. Liking the panel.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Breadboard ends on top*
> 
> Been slow progress the past week. We went up to Colorado to visit some friends, and then the monsoon started here in NM and that meant lots of weeds that needed pulling.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I'm happy with the way it came out too, Eric. Thanks!


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Breadboard ends on top*
> 
> Been slow progress the past week. We went up to Colorado to visit some friends, and then the monsoon started here in NM and that meant lots of weeds that needed pulling.
> 
> ...


How is the beer research going ha ha










Anyway I was reading about your tripping issues (electricity that is)
You may not realise it but there are are different tripping characteristic curves for Circuit breakers.
Meaning ones designed to tolerate ms of inrush current.
From memory A,B,C and D each letter has a different response time to inrush start currents and a circuit breaker for purely resistive loads my not work well with inductive loads. (meaning nuisance tripping)
You may wish to have a close look at your switchboard and the breakers will have letter on them somewhere indicating the type its designed for.
Then check on Googe or an electrical retailer for advice, (not a hardware store though) unless there is a qualified or like yourself a competent person to ask)


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Breadboard ends on top*
> 
> Been slow progress the past week. We went up to Colorado to visit some friends, and then the monsoon started here in NM and that meant lots of weeds that needed pulling.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Rob. What I've got for a breaker is what's required by code, so I'm not going to mess with it. I'll just plug the table saw and planer into the dedicated 20A outlet that doesn't trip when these 15A tools start up.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Tenons and mortises*

Been more slow progress as I took a couple breaks to make storage for tools and also have been dealing with a flare-up of sciatica. But I've been nibbling away at the joinery for the hamper.

I managed to get all the tenons cut on the horizontal pieces which run left to right. That's the shelf assemblies and a top piece in the front, plus a top and bottom piece for the rear. The tenons are all ¼x¾ inch, since I'll be using my quarter inch chisel for mortising.










Today I finally started chopping mortises. Got two done on each front upright so that the top piece and the upper shelf are ready.










I'm realizing I'm going to have some "fun" with the glue-up, and I'm not sure whether pre-assembling the shelves will make things easier or harder, but I'll get there. And I've got a bunch more mortises to chop. Ten more for the left-right horizontal pieces, and a dozen mortises and tenons to cut for the pieces which will run front-back. Plus however I decide to attach the top, which I still need to figure out (though I'm leaning towards just doweling it in place).


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Tenons and mortises*
> 
> Been more slow progress as I took a couple breaks to make storage for tools and also have been dealing with a flare-up of sciatica. But I've been nibbling away at the joinery for the hamper.
> 
> ...


I agree Dave, the glue up may be a tad tricky but I'm sure a little adjustment would be necessary in any hand tool making. Have to give you a lot of credit with your patience.


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Tenons and mortises*
> 
> Been more slow progress as I took a couple breaks to make storage for tools and also have been dealing with a flare-up of sciatica. But I've been nibbling away at the joinery for the hamper.
> 
> ...


Looking good Dave, good luck on the complicated glue up, just take your time & think it through.
Are you going to dry assemble completely prior adding glue? If so, maybe once it is assembled you can then disassemble a subcomponent - add glue and clamp, then repeat on the next subassembly.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Tenons and mortises*
> 
> Been more slow progress as I took a couple breaks to make storage for tools and also have been dealing with a flare-up of sciatica. But I've been nibbling away at the joinery for the hamper.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave. Yeah, it'll go together one way or another.

Thanks, Tom. The two shelves are already glued up, and I think I'll probably glue up the sides first (so I can put panels in from the inside) and then pull the two sides together around all the other bits. But yeah, I'm planning to dry fit as much as possible before getting out the glue.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*More mortises*

Finished chopping all the mortises for the left-to-right cross-pieces today. Including one I somehow measured wrong and had to cut twice!










No idea how I got that so wrong, but I'll cut a scrap of wood to fill that hole before I close up the shop for the day, and it'll be good as new tomorrow.

And before the big reveal for the day, here's a quick sequence showing how I chop mortises.

First, mark all four edges of the mortise. I tend to do the narrow sides first with pencil, then the wide sides with a chisel (which might be too long, as it is in this case), then the narrow sides with the mortise chisel.




























Then I start chopping.










I clean the chips out whenever I feel like I need to see what I'm doing.










Then when I hit the far end, I turn around and chop back.










These mortises were deep enough (about ½ inch) that I had to make three passes to get them to full depth.










The one time I tried to do it in two passes, I chopped through the ¾ inch thick board and had to repair that. No photo of that, sorry.

And that's it! Here's where the hamper is today. Tomorrow I'll cut the tenons on the six pieces that will run front-to-back on the sides and start cutting the mortises for them. I also will need to plan grooves for the ¼ inch Baltic birch ply that'll enclose the sides and figure out how I'm going to attach the top.


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *More mortises*
> 
> Finished chopping all the mortises for the left-to-right cross-pieces today. Including one I somehow measured wrong and had to cut twice!
> 
> ...


Looking good so far.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *More mortises*
> 
> Finished chopping all the mortises for the left-to-right cross-pieces today. Including one I somehow measured wrong and had to cut twice!
> 
> ...


Thanks, Tom! Getting closer…


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## EricFai (Sep 30, 2018)

DavePolaschek said:


> *More mortises*
> 
> Finished chopping all the mortises for the left-to-right cross-pieces today. Including one I somehow measured wrong and had to cut twice!
> 
> ...


Looks like it's taking shape Dave, that's a lot of mortise to cut. You are on your way to the finish.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *More mortises*
> 
> Finished chopping all the mortises for the left-to-right cross-pieces today. Including one I somehow measured wrong and had to cut twice!
> 
> ...


Thanks, Eric. Yeah, it's a lot of chopping. And these are the ones where if I'm not careful, I could chop through into the mortise that's on the other side.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*First side glued up*

Not been getting much done, but a little at a time. I finished chopping all the mortises yesterday, and this morning got out the Luban 043 to cut some rabbets.










These are to hold a piece of 6mm birch plywood that will make up the side panel of the hamper.

Then I glued things up. The panel is just floating in the rabbets. I'll put glazing points or brads into hold it in place.










The panel is 29⅛ by 40-something.


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## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *First side glued up*
> 
> Not been getting much done, but a little at a time. I finished chopping all the mortises yesterday, and this morning got out the Luban 043 to cut some rabbets.
> 
> ...


Coming along nicely.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *First side glued up*
> 
> Not been getting much done, but a little at a time. I finished chopping all the mortises yesterday, and this morning got out the Luban 043 to cut some rabbets.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I figure another day to cut the rabbets and get the other side glued up, then I'll maybe do some finishing before putting the pieces together. We'll see.


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

*Everything oiled*

I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.

The top:










The sticks and shelves:










And the sides:



















I'll give them a few days to cure while I mark the holes for the hinges and closers for the doors and do any fine-tuning that needs to happen before I put all the pieces together.

I think I'm going with 18" brass piano hinges for the doors. It'll be overkill, but I figure that's easier than having to replace a door later because I set a basket of laundry on an open door and broke the hinges.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Everything oiled*
> 
> I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.
> 
> ...


That's going to be very nice! You make it look easy.


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## oldrivers (Feb 10, 2014)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Everything oiled*
> 
> I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.
> 
> ...


Nice work Dave BLO takes time.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Everything oiled*
> 
> I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Hairy! Lots of planning and slow progress to get to this point. Plus I still have to cut the top down to size after I get everything else glued up and I can see exactly how big it'll need to be.

Thanks, Oldrivers! Part of why I chose BLO is that I've got a couple blown discs in my back, so I can't get a lot of shop time at once, but with BLO, I can slop it on, wipe it off, then go away for a day or two, and it'll still turn out fine. I think I'll probably put some shellac and varnish on the top for looks, and I might need some amber or garnet shellac in spots to darken up the wood, but we'll see. I wanted a good coat of preservative under everything and on the inside before I started getting fancy.


----------



## Oldtool (May 27, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Everything oiled*
> 
> I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.
> 
> ...


That is some beautiful wood there, the piece in the first picture is fantastic. Nice, very nice.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Everything oiled*
> 
> I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.
> 
> ...


Yeah, that's the top piece, which when I planed the surface a little, I tried to resaw 3 pieces from the 4/4 board, but I wandered a little and only got 2. Wish I could get such "unusable" ash more often, especially as I got a pretty good discount on it because of the knots.


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## MikeB_UK (Jul 27, 2015)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Everything oiled*
> 
> I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.
> 
> ...


Coming together nicely Dave - should be done for Christmas at this rate 
Sorry to hear about the back.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Everything oiled*
> 
> I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Mike! Thinking it'll be done in September. I'm not supposed to lift anything more than 10 pounds for most of august after my surgery, so… but I should have it outta the shop before Halloween at the absolute latest. Gotta get the fireplace screen done for Christmas, and I don't even have all of the the juniper for that yet.


----------



## adot45 (Sep 9, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Everything oiled*
> 
> I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.
> 
> ...


That is going to be a very nice looking hamper. Pretty grain!


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Everything oiled*
> 
> I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave! I sure hope so.


----------



## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Everything oiled*
> 
> I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.
> 
> ...


The grain color is really coming out great Dave. The hamper is going to be a conversational piece when your done.
I think the piano hinge idea is much better, it will get a lot of use and sometimes overkill is better. It will look better in my opinion too.


----------



## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

DavePolaschek said:


> *Everything oiled*
> 
> I've spent the past week getting a coat of linseed oil on all the pieces of the hamper before I go any farther with glue-ups.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Dave! The only snag with the piano hinges is that I just have a 36" brass piano hinge, so I'll need to cut it in half. Not a huge deal, but then I'll need to file the edges smooth and such. One More Thing.


----------

