# How to sand a panel flat



## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

Hi all,

This is probably only a difficult question (for me) because of my rudimentary equipment. Lacking a jointer, planer, belt sander, or even hand planes, flattening is a challenge.

I recently glued up some 6/4 walnut planks for a side table top. It is a hexagon shape, roughly 2' x 2'. Naturally, the resulting panel is not flat. The ridges in between planks (glue line) are minimal, I'm not worried about those. It is not visibly warped, but it wobbles if I set it down on a flat surface. Given its size, and my rudimentary tools, what are some options for trying to flatten this thing?

I've read some suggestions to adhere a sheet of sandpaper to a flat surface and rub the project piece over that, but it seemed most people only recommended that for smaller pieces. I'm not sure that would work for a panel this size. I could lay out multiple strips of sandpaper…. Any experiences?

I should add that I do have a ROS and obviously can hand sand.


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

It sounds like to me the lowest price of entry in to equipment that would make this reasonably easy vs. using only a ROS or sanding the whole thing by hand would be a belt sander. You can usually get an ok one used for <$100 and a decent new one for <$200. If you anticipate doing any more work that will require flattening panels it could be very worth while.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

I'm sure a belt sander would be faster. I'm hoping to not add equipment for this particular project so I would prefer to be able to do it with things I have on hand. But that might not be possible.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

A 2' straight edge, a ROS, and patience can get you there.


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## HokieKen (Apr 14, 2015)

Yeah, you can do it with just a ROS and hand sanding. But, I'm glad I ain't doing it! ;-)


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

Haha, so I gather it won't be quick, I can handle that. Fortunately it's not a full size top.

I assume I should start with the flattest side down, get the bumpier top pretty flat and then flip over. Flatten with a rougher grit (like 80), then move on to higher grits once the main flattening is accomplished?


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## bndawgs (Oct 21, 2016)

when you lay it flat, how much does it sit up on the opposite side?


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

How about finding a cabinet shop or someone else in your area with a wide belt sander and have them flatten it for you? Whatever you would have to pay would probably be less than the amount of time and sandpaper you'd go through.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

most shops in my area are $1.00 per minite well worth it to me :<))))


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

> How about finding a cabinet shop or someone else in your area with a wide belt sander and have them flatten it for you? Whatever you would have to pay would probably be less than the amount of time and sandpaper you d go through.
> 
> - JayT


+1 That's a 10min job at a hardwood dealer or cabinet shop.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

May be time to build one the those Do hickey thingamabob router sleds. Get in flat and then finish sand

Lot of videos on YouTube on building a router sled.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

Hmm, I do have a router, I have never seen the flattening jig. Might be time indeed. My hardwood dealer charges a $90 minumum for machine use if I recall correctly. I'll do that for a full table top I want pristine, but not this little side table. I don't know about local cabinet makers, I could check.


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## exslidder (Mar 20, 2018)

Here is a picture of my flattening jig that i use to flatten slabs for the coffee tables that i make. Its really easy to build and works great. i watched several youtube videos and tried to pic the best features of all. i have a one inch bit that i use for flattening and can do a 4 ' slab one side in about 20 min more or less depending on how warped.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

Mmm, definitely should look into one of those!

Here is a pic of my top lying flat so you can see the amt of gap on the ends that need to be flattened.


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## logboy73 (Jul 23, 2009)

A Timesaver will get you closer, but not perfect. Much like a planer, a widebelt sander is only designed for surfacing, not flattening. To truly get it flat will require a CNC router or router sled. If that thing is twisted, it will still be twisted after the Timesaver, it will just be smooth and twisted. My timesaver will only take out warping if its even from side to side and not twisted. If its twisted it goes on the CNC router. FYI, youre going to be there all day trying to sand off an 1/8" of wood with a hand sander. Can you cut it apart and fix it?


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## Mainboom (Jan 24, 2019)

id use the router and make the jig but you will have to buy the right bit. And I cant think of which one it is off the top of my head. OR you can go to a big box lumber store and buy a hand plane and plane it down flat. you should be able to buy a number 7 im just thinking ones I have recently seen at my lumber store. anyhow you can plane it down a lot faster then you would ever be able to sand it. plus if you set the plane right you will have minimal sanding in the end. and you will save money because you are gonna spend 50 bucks on sand paper and like 15 on a cheap jack plane. plus you get a new tool out of it. then u can buy some card scrapers and scrap it after you plane it and sand even less but buy a burnisher and stone see look at me help you spent money… honeslty you can get away with a cheap plane without having to sharpen it for what you have to do. just don't buy a block plane get a jackplane or a scrub plane. I did a 14inch by 10ft counter top with a number 7 just for fun. but I had already jointed and run it through a plane. so I only had to plane about 3 inches of the 14

Edit…I just remembered the wood whisperer has a great video on.using the router.its in the video where he is building his roubo bench so check his website out. It explains it perfectly


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## bigblockyeti (Sep 9, 2013)

If you do go the wide belt sander or planer route, you can make a sled to hold the irregular bottom fully supported and parallel on both axis to the top as it's feed through whatever surfacing machine you might use.


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## Jared_S (Jul 6, 2018)

The router sled will work well, but in this case do you have a hand plane sitting around.

It should take 5 to 10 minutes to flatten that with a hand plane.


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

If you want you can take the time and use a hand jointer plane, Or a hand belt sander, 80 grit to start, keep checking the areas you need to level with a straight edge, till you get the surface you want.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

I'm intrigued at the prospect of using a hand plane, but I have never used one before. I don't mind buying one, but I'm not sure I could nail it on my first try, and I don't want to mess this panel up. How hard would it be to flatten with a hand plane for a first timer?


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

I love my hand planes and use them constantly, but would never recommend the first hand plane experience to be flattening a top on a project you care about. There is a learning curve and it takes some practice before achieving a level of proficiency that will ensure success. If you can set the top and project to the side for a bit, learning to use a hand plane is a rewarding experience and opens up a lot more possibilities in woodworking.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

Alright, I'm gonna do it! I've wanted to learn how to plane anyway. Local HD didn't have anything that seemed to match your descriptions of an appropriate plane, but I'll check Lowe's or Amazon, if nothing else.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> Alright, I m gonna do it! I ve wanted to learn how to plane anyway. Local HD didn t have anything that seemed to match your descriptions of an appropriate plane, but I ll check Lowe s or Amazon, if nothing else.
> 
> - Travis


Might want to start watching videos on sharpening plane irons too.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

No, I'n not suggesting anyone by this. It's a FYI sort of thing. Woodpecker's has entered the Router Sled Market. I'm not going to mention the price because it you have to ask the price you can't afford it.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

Wanting to be a furniture maker without even a plane or sander is like being a mechanic without a wrench. Even a seasoned pro couldn't do what you're asking of yourself. I would pick up a hand plane and get good with that. When space and financial resources allow, maybe you can add some large power tools.

You can also hire a local cabinet shop to run the top through a drum sander. It's not really the right way to do it, but will flatten the top some. 
Good luck with it.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

For a decent quality hand plane, you won't find one at a big box store or Amazon. For new, Veritas & Lie Nielsen are excellent, Wood River can be, also. Best bang for the buck is a used vintage plane. Buy one fully tuned and sharpened from someone who knows what they are doing for your first plane, that way you know how a plane should perform. After that, it can be fun to buy old planes and refurbish them-it's just easier if you know what the goal is.

Here's one resource for restored vintage planes. Don is a LumberJock, as well, and you will get a plane that is ready to go from him.

https://www.timetestedtools.net/items-for-sale/

You can also start a new thread asking and there are several other LJ members who could provide a ready to work vintage plane. Avoid ebay until you really know what you are looking for and at. There are quite a few reputable sellers on ebay, but you can also easily get stuck with a lemon.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

Yes, I didn't expect the panel to come out so off. I believe it was a problem with the glue-up. Since it is a hexagon I had to clamp it with the cut-off corners and they kept sliding under the clamp pressure, so I was really tightening in order to get adequate pressure along the center glue line. Anyway, I think I introduced the cupping that way.

This is my first shot at furniture, I've done some cutting boards, but nothing like this. I certainly wouldn't call myself a furniture maker. I'm still in the beginning stages, just trying to do this for fun.

I am a bit at a loss. I first thought I would sand it, then realized that would take too long and be difficult to get flat, but would be cheap. Then I thought I would take it to my lumber supplier and have them use their wide sander, but then I learned that wouldn't actually flatten it. So then I thought I would build a router jig, but that seemed more cumbersome than using a hand plane. So I thought I would do that, but in looking for a good #7, they are fairly pricy and it seems there will be a steep learning curve. A skill I'd like to learn, but maybe not for this particular project. All that brings me back to what I should do to get this top flattened so I can complete this project.


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

If your using planes, you have got to keep the blade sharp. A router jig will work, but you still have to sand it afterwards, A orbital or belt sander with straight edge to check high spots is the other do it yourself option. I've leveled several tables with the hand belt sander method. There are power hand plans, but not for this application.


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

Pick a method, use it and learn from it. Every woodworker goes through learning processes on every project and a large part of woodworking is figuring out what to do when things don't go exactly right. The reason there are so many options being presented is that each of us has already gone down that path and come up with different solutions that fit our interests, space, tools and skill set. If you are going to continue with woodworking, you'll have to figure out what that looks like for you. No one is an expert in every facet. It appears like that the many attempts to help have instead created confusion.

I can't speak to a router sled, as I've never used one. I can speak to hand planes. For a 2ft table top, you don't need a #7. A #5 or even a smoother, like a #3 or #4 can make that top flat enough for use, and vintage #4's and #5's are not that expensive. If you are planning to build quite a bit of large furniture, then you'll have to come up with ways to flatten panels like sides and tops. The best options are hand planes, a router sled or access to very large machinery.

Have you reached out to any other woodworkers in your area for assistance? There are several Lumberjocks in the Phoenix area, that might be able to help or suggest someone that can help. AZWoody and KellyCrafts are a couple I know of. You might reach out.


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

I do appreciate all the suggestions. Forums like this allow me to learn things I never would have been able to learn otherwise. I couldn't have developed this hobby on the side without resources like this forum. So thank you everyone for your help!

Like JayT said, I think I need to just pick a method and work on it. I wasn't aware of the other Phoenix LJ's. That is good to know!

I'll do a bit more thinking today about whether I want to build a router sled or begin my hand plane journey. I think the router sled will be more immediate and the hand planes something that would add more long-term value to my skillset. In the case of getting this project done, perhaps the router sled is the way to go.

My wife keeps telling me to just accept the top as it is, but I think I would resent that side table for the rest of it's life, knowing it is warped. I don't know what functional issues could arise, as well, attaching it to the base without flattening it first.

Her birthday is tomorrow and it was supposed to be her birthday gift. Maybe it will become a Valentine's Day gift….


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## Kilravn (Nov 15, 2018)

I would say to accept the table how it is, and give it to her for her bday, and start on those hand plane skills. After you get it down, and are comfortable with planes you can always go back and flatten the table top later on and just refinish it


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## TravisN (Jan 15, 2019)

> I would say to accept the table how it is, and give it to her for her bday, and start on those hand plane skills. After you get it down, and are comfortable with planes you can always go back and flatten the table top later on and just refinish it
> 
> - Brandon


That's actually what I decided to do. I went back and looked at it again and it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was. Especially after I account for minor offsets between different glued sections. I am going to just sand it smooth, perhaps attempt some minor sanding corrections, and call it good. I really don't think it will be noticeable once it's mounted to the table base. I've learned a lot from this project and the next one will be that much better for it.


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