# 1958 Craftsman RAS Cleanup



## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

I just inherited a Craftsman radial arm saw (model # 113.29003) from 1958, according to the date stamp on the motor plate and model number plate on the RAS frame itself. It was bought new for personal use by my grandfather so I imagine has seen pretty light use over those years, and no use in the last 10-15. The machine runs just fine and the motor sounds good. I used my compressor to blow a considerable amount of dust from inside the motor that probably hasn't seen the light of day in 50+ years. But that's about all I've done. The motor carriage seems to move relatively smooth, but not as smooth as other RASs I've used. I've cleaned the tracks the motor assembly rides on as much as possible but I imagine the bearings are packed with dust and dried grease.

Does anyone have and recommendations on other cleanup measures I should take? I've heard of using some type of spray electrical cleaner and drenching the inside of the motor to clean that up even more. Is it possible to clean the bearings the motor carriage rides on and repack with grease? I imagine replacements would be difficult if not impossible to find. Also, does anyone know of a modern aerosol paint that matches the old Craftsman gold color? I'll probably try and clean this saw up and make it look a little better.

Thanks for any help keeping this old iron up and running!

Todd


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## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

I fixed up a craftsman RAS that wasn't quite as old as yours. I just sanded the tracks with wet 400 grit. Grainger sells bearings, if you've got originals then it's not hard to measure and find replacements. 
I don't know about spray in cleaner for the motor, but I've used the air compressor to blow out all the [email protected] from the inside of motors.

They probably won't have any parts except for screws and the switches and maybe the lift mechanism if it's similar to other models, but you should look at the craftsman replacement parts site too just to see what's out there.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

I'm not any kind og electric motor expert, but I'm not sure I'd feel confortable drenching an electric motor in anything. I'd carefully take it apart, clean it and put it back together. When I bought my Grizzley table saw it had been under water, so that's what I did. I took lots of close up pictures so I could refer to them to get it back together.

I agree with Joe on the wet 400 grit if the tracks have some rust or need smoothing. The spay them with a dry lub.

Pictures to please!


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## mountainaxe (Jul 17, 2011)

Before you do anything to your saw, download Jon Eakes' book, Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw, for $14.95. This is THE bible for adjusting tuning a RAS. http://joneakes.com/learning-curve/75-radial-arm-saws


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Thanks for the information, guys. I have some wet/dry 400 grit paper so I'll do some light sanding on the tracks. That RAS book sounds like a decent investment at that price, I'll check it out (and try my best to look past the ridiculous cover!). The electrical cleaner I read about was probably something along the lines of this:

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=02018

It works similar to carb/brake cleaner in that it evaporates almost instantly so the electrics don't remain wet or dangerous. Good to hear the bearings might still be available, I might take one out and see if I can find replacements at a reasonable price.

Here are some pictures as it sits now: 
http://toddnelson.net/misc/ras1.JPG
http://toddnelson.net/misc/ras2.JPG

It won't be until February at the earliest that I do anything with it. We're having a house built at the moment and I won't have room to set it up until we're moved into the new place. At which point I'll likely convert it to 220v. I also plan to have it built into a workbench, along with a miter saw, not sure how I'll ultimately design that. Anyone have any ideas?

Todd


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## JustJoe (Oct 26, 2012)

Someone on this forum, or over on woodworkers talk forum, has multiple RAS built into one long bench. If you don't get a hit here on this post, maybe post a separate question and they'll see it. IIRC I saw it when someone started one of those "what is a RAS good for anymore?" threads and this guy came out with his collection and a couple dozen uses for the RAS that didn't involve simple cutting (grinding and sharpening, routing, jointing….)


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Good tip. And yes, they are quite versatile, although I do have other dedicated tools that are better suited for many of those tasks. I decided to haul the RAS home because it was free, had sentimental value and does excel at rough crosscutting compared to a modern CMS for larger materials. I've also had to do a few projects where it would be much easier to move the tool over the workpiece rather than wrestle a large board over a table saw. For instance, lap joints on large dimensional lumber.

If I didn't have the room for it or didn't have access to one for free I probably wouldn't bother.

Todd


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

nice RAS. even older than mine, which dares to the mid 60s. same exact design with one humorous difference. mine has a safety key to activate the motor. i believe on todd's linked RAS, the power button on the top of the motor support arm is just a "push to start" button. appears to predate even the most rudimentary safety features.

still, it's CI column, column support and arm make it one of the reasonably good c-man RASs. good luck with it. mine takes up a bit of room, but i'm glad i have it for fine cuts:










and how it sits today:


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Nice looking RAS yourself! Mine does actually have a key switch system, but the key isn't inserted in the pictures. It's just a simple stamped metal key. Only real difference I can see other than the color (maybe you repainted yours a more modern color?) is the lever you have on the chromed knob used for changing the miter angle. On my model you have to pull the chrome knob out with your fingertips, it's a little awkward. I suppose that's why they added the palm lever to make that adjustment easier.

I can't tell, but you might also have the accessory threaded end on the right side of the motor like the later models had. Mine has a brake you can actuate by hand in that spot.

Todd


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

FTR, mine's the OEM color and has not been painted. and i don't EVER move the arm for miter cuts. IMHE. these saws do not like to be moved around much and usually don't respond well to moving the radial arm. just passing on my personal experience. for non-90° cuts, i use jigs so the arm stays put.

but i'd be curious to see how your key switch operates as it looks to be considerably smaller than mine and later models.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

I hear what you're saying about keeping the saw at dead 90 degrees, that's why I only plan to use it for rough crosscutting to length or for work where it's easier to move the saw rather than the workpiece. It can also be handy to have the blade visible from above unlike a TS.

Here are some shots of the key system. You can tell how long it's been since the key was removed based on all that tarnish!



















Todd


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## toolie (Mar 16, 2011)

wow!! thanks. that's really cool to see. a real "key" so it's locked when the key's not in the switch. learned something new about a RAS that's older than mine. it's a good day!


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## Jim Jakosh (Nov 24, 2009)

I use my Craftsman RAS for dados only. I have a Craftsman wobble dado on it and it has been working for 40 Years….........Jim


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## roofner (Feb 24, 2012)

No retro kit for it . But they will buy it back for $100. You want it as a remembrance.


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

Bearings are the easiest thing to find. Sears never made a bearing since they manufacture nothing to my knowledge. They do spec out what is used and normally that is something that can be bought off the shelf. This keeps the cost down. We have a bearing supply store in our little town and you can take your old bearing to them and get a new one. They just match them up and you are on the way for $10.95 or some such cost. When you get that saw cleaned up and ready get a good blade made for RAS. I recently got a new McFeely's catalog and they have a section for RAS only. The thing to look for is a negative hook angle. This keeps them from climbing up on the wood you are trying to cut. Good luck with your project.


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## QDROBob (Mar 17, 2014)

I have also inherited a model 113.29003 from my father. It has a manual brake on the opposite end shaft where the shaft cap s/be. To install a chuck, the brake must be removed, but manual does not even list the brake and I have not been able to figure it out. Any tips?


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## nicksmurf111 (Jun 6, 2014)

I have a'68. The bearings in the motor are a standard metric size. See my Youtube video if you haven't watched it already (search radial arm saw bearings and it should be the top result). I have yet to find new carriage bearings, so if anyone has a manufacture and number, please let me know. I just oiled up the old ones. My saw works great, but I still need to build a better fence. Mine is flimsy, I need to glue one up and make it perfectly straight. I love using the saw for dados and lap joints, it's a lot quicker than using the table saw.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Bob, here's the process to remove the brake, I have the same setup. I actually just figured out how to remove it since you asked, I never had a reason to use the accessory attachment before. You're right, it isn't outlined in the manual but after some playing with it I figured it out.

1. Install a blade 
2. Find the small hole on the side of the brake (see pic) and insert something like the end of a drill bit in the hole.
3. Start to spin the blade by hand backwards until the bit falls into the brake more.
4. Hold the bit firmly and try to spin the blade backwards some more. It'll take some force but eventually it'll break free and you'll be able to spin the brake off. It'll feel like the blade came loose but it didn't.
5. Reinstall the brake in the opposite way.



















Here's my bench with the RAS and CMS built in, in case anyone is curious what I wound up doing with the saw. I also converted the RAS to 220v, not sure how much of a difference it made since I never really used it on 110 but it was easy and I have plenty of 220 connections nearby. Still needs some cleanup but I've used it quite a bit and it runs great. Most of the openings in the bench will have drawers built in, just haven't gotten to that yet.










Hope this helps,
Todd


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Nick,

Thanks for the pointer to your video, I'll check it out. Not sure if your later model saw has the same kind of bearing setup as my older one. Mine is actually just a bunch of loose ball bearings (see pic) that I think if cleaned up and adjusted would smooth out the carriage travel, but I haven't gotten into that yet.

Todd


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## nicksmurf111 (Jun 6, 2014)

Oh wow, those are MUCH different! The later models had convex shielded ball bearings, then after that they changed to concave bearings.

The motor looks similar, mine just has the electric brake instead of that manual one.

That looks easy to service though, as long as you can keep the bearings under control when you remove them.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I have the '61 model.

http://lumberjocks.com/Ocelot/blog/22656

I did replace the bearings - actually ordered them from Sears last year. You could probably get them cheaper elsewhere. I have the manual for mine, but you can find it too.

-Paul


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

Here's one from that era in the Nashville area. They want $350 for it with a bunch of stuff.

This looks just like mine.

http://nashville.craigslist.org/tls/4496359215.html


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## nicksmurf111 (Jun 6, 2014)

$350, ouch. Interesting accessories, but only a couple carbide blades. Positive hook angle, I'd be scared to use them on a RAS. I've already been lazy and shot a couple boards into my fence.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

DeWalt stand, so instant RAS credibility.


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## nicksmurf111 (Jun 6, 2014)

This is more like it…without the "stuff". $50 while it's up. Will probably be up for a while, I don't think they sell quickly. I got mine for $35.

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/tls/4511413462.html


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

For 50, I would buy it in a heartbeat!

If you are cold and callused, you can send the motor to radialarmsawrecall.com for $100. I, on the other hand, would keep it for a spare.

But wait! It's got a 9" blade on it. What's that!??

-Paul


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## nicksmurf111 (Jun 6, 2014)

I'm not sure, maybe it's a blade meant for a Dewalt. I'd consider getting one that matches the one I have.


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## Wojo81 (Jul 31, 2014)

I'm new to this website. Just got a 59 Craftsman RAS and trying to buff it up. Already found some great advice on this machine that I couldn't find anywhere else. Just wanted to say thank you. Awesome site.


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

I have one from 1968. You need to take the covers apart to clean the motor and windings properly. The bearings have the replacement part numbers stamped in them and they are readily available.

Use Wire Dryer to spay out all the crap one you have blow out most of it using compressed air.


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## averagejoewoodworker (Nov 5, 2012)

Reviving this a bit. I just got the same model RAS and it's pretty nice. But I am also having to clean up the loose balls and reinstall them, but I confess I have no idea how they get put back in. I assume there's a plug or a slot for it as it probably had to be serviced at some point, but I just am not sure where.

Todd, any advice?

Paul


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

I imagine they go back in the same way they came out, or was the saw already disassembled by the time you got it? Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to get into that part of my saw yet, although I need to as there is some play in the slide mechanism. I'll try to look into it soon and get back to you.

Todd


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

I had some time so I tore into my saw this afternoon. I took the carriage off the arm, cleaned the guides, the bearings (all 82!) and the tracks on the arm. After reassembly and adjustment it moves much smoother now and without any play. I'll walk you through, with pictures how I reassembled everything:

Here's a shot of the guides, the top one has been cleaned and the bottom one obviously has not:









Here's the carriage removed from the arm:









I was careful when loosening the guides as the bearings will fall everwhere, I was ready with a box under the carriage but was able to catch them all with a magnet wand as they fell out of the guides. The guide assembly is completely enclosed, preventing the bearings from falling out, except for along the inner edge. Here's a shot of the cleaned bearings reinstalled in the guide:









Reinstalling is the tricky part as the bearings will want to fall everywhere. I came up with a system of folding a piece of packing tape over onto itself lengthwise so none of the adhesive was exposed. I then cut 2 - 1/4" strips from that about 9" long. Once I placed all the bearings in the guide I used the folded tape to hold the bearings in along the non-enclosed side, folding the ends over the guide and taping them down. Since a picture is worth 1,000 words…









I could then lay the guide assembly down flat back on the carriage, starting with the left side and slide the whole thing up to the arm. Here's the left guide bolted down:









Then I could lay in the right guide, using the same taping technique on that one. Be sure to back off the adjustment screws on the right side of the carriage to ease installing the guide, see below:









Once you have everything in place but the guides still a little loose you can gingerly pull the tape out and proceed with the adjusting procedure. The tape worked surprisingly well, I didn't lose a single bearing on my first attempt. Adjusting the bearings is a tricky trial and error process. You use the adjustment screws on the right side of the carriage to push the right guide toward the arm, then tighten the bolts and see how it glides. I had to tighten/loosen several times to get it just right.

Finally I applied some teflon-based spray adhesive. I didn't go crazy as I figured it would attract dust over time, but a small application seemed to help.

But that's the basic process, good luck and let me know if you have any questions.

Todd


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## timbertailor (Jul 2, 2014)

The bearings on the motor can be replaced. Not too hard. The replacement part numbers are stamped into the bearings. Forget about approaching Sears. Those days are long gone.


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## averagejoewoodworker (Nov 5, 2012)

That's very helpful, thank you. How did you clean those puppies; they look immaculate.

I find this saw to be well constructed, and I actually think the free bearings, although slightly less smooth, do allow for a longer life span. Plus, replacing those balls is pretty easy.

I'll see what I can do! Let me know if you figure out the color match for the anniversary gold too.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Carburetor cleaner worked wonders on cleaning the guides and then some gentle persuasion with a soft bristle brush. I just used soapy water to clean the ball bearings, they looked almost new right out of the saw. I was also sure to thoroughly dry everything with towels and shop air to prevent rust.

I decided not to repaint, I want to retain that original 'patina'. But regardless, if I come across the color for some reason I'll report back. Yeah I agree I think this is a well built tool, back from the days when Craftsman but out a decent machine. Pretty much everything is solid cast iron, all the important bits anyway, rather than stamped steel or aluminum.

Todd


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## averagejoewoodworker (Nov 5, 2012)

I managed to get my bearings back in! I had a few ones that were in bad shape, so I replaced them. Now it's time to adjust everything.

I am lucky I think, because the saw is in really good condition, with almost no rust at all on any of the parts. A bit surprising really. The carriage lock shoe is a weird little device, though (the strip of metal across the right carriage). Do you have any idea what real purpose it serves? Seems to just add resistance to the mechanism.


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## nicksmurf111 (Jun 6, 2014)

It keeps the screw from digging in. I forget if the track on mine ('68) is steel or aluminum. But that little metal strip is probably hardened spring metal.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

That's to protect the arm as it keeps the screw from driving right into the cast iron when you tighten it down. You want it there, otherwise you'll develop all sorts of dings in the cast iron the more you use it.

Todd


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## averagejoewoodworker (Nov 5, 2012)

That makes sense. Thanks. I am still familiarizing myself with all of the items. I have an old MBF Dewalt 9" (actually, 2 of them, although only 1 motor of 3 actually works) and they are constructed quite differently I noticed. I think I somewhat prefer elements from each.


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## averagejoewoodworker (Nov 5, 2012)

Did you happen to notice it rocking a bit on the carriage arm? I have tried tightening it up, but noticed that to stop the rocking, I have to make it tight enough that it moves well on the middle of the arm, but then jams up on the front and the rear. I think the original owner may have tightened it too much to begin with, which wore down the center more than the tips.

Strangely, I have no movement otherwise in the bearing assembly at almost any tightness.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Actually, I did notice that, the carriage was looser in the middle than the ends. I figured the middle of the saw was wore down more as that area probably saw the most use especially when it was going through wood and there was more force applied to the bearings. I was able to find a middle ground in the adjustment where it didn't have play in the middle and wasn't too stiff at the ends to where it couldn't be used. This has the nice side-effect of holding the saw in the rear position and keeping it from freely sliding toward you while running.

If you're not able to get it worked out you might have to very lightly file the tracks on the ends of the arm with some 320 grit wet/dry paper.


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## averagejoewoodworker (Nov 5, 2012)

I think that's probably what I'll do. Just take some time and buff it a bit at the far end. I don't mind the tip of it so much since it prevents it from running forward too quickly, and I'll rarely need to Xcut that wide of a board.

I'm glad I'm not the only one to notice!


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## nicksmurf111 (Jun 6, 2014)

Make sure the carriage lock is backed out all the way. Mine jams up if I don't unthread it more than half a turn. I think the surface it contacts not machined straight.


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## zjll (Aug 16, 2016)

I guess I am a couple of years late, but I too have RAS 113.29003. I succeeded in taking apart, now I am trying to put back together. Todd1561 postings helped a lot. I do have a question about the column tube key for this model. How do you tighten it? There is only one set screw to hold the key. Any insights?


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

I'm glad you found my posts informative! To tighten the column key you first loosen the set screw that's on the top of the back of the column. Then use a C-clamp or similar to push the key towards the column, tighten the set screw while still applying pressure to the key. As my pictures seem to be helpful, see below…


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

Is that a 10" or 12" saw? I had the 12" model back in the late 50's. I now own a Dewalt RAS.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Just the 10". Did Craftsman make a 12"?


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## CyberDyneSystems (May 29, 2012)

I'm not aware of a Craft5sman 12" RAS.
The DeWALTs went up to HUGE blades. Heck the 12" was the compact


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## zjll (Aug 16, 2016)

Thank you Todd1561. Yes, your article and pictures gave me the courage to actually take it completely apart. It'll be a project, but hopefully I am going to be able to make it work some day. I bought it a year ago for 50 dollars and it worked flawlessly….till I needed to move it from one corner of the garage to the other. Because I am an old little guy, I couldn't lift it. I figured I take the arm off, making it lighter. Well, now I have dozens of parts and screws 
Thank you again!!!!!!!!


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## zjll (Aug 16, 2016)

Another question for Todd1561. My saw was rewired. The original switch + key was bypassed and the switch was on the feed wire, mounted under the table. I will probably not change that. Did you replace the wire connecting the motor and the arm? Mine seems worn out and I think prudent to replace it. Perhaps with one of the coiled wires.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

I didn't replace any of the wiring on mine, it still seemed to be pretty flexible without any cracking. The only electrical work I did was cut off the regular 110v plug as I rewired my motor for 220v. But it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the wire going from the arm to the motor if yours is failing. At the age of these machines I think it all comes down to how well they were stored, mine was always garage/basement kept and out of much sunlight, so I think that helped preserve the sheathing of the wiring. If you can find the later coil version of the wire you might as well, assuming you don't mind a black wire over the stock yellow/orange. My father's 1980's version of this saw has the coil wire and it seems to work well. Although, I've never run into an issue with the old, straight cord getting in the way or drooping into the work.


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## zjll (Aug 16, 2016)

Thank you again for your reply. The wire doesn't seem to have any cracks, and it is a fair assumption that the saw has not been exposed to much sunlight. I will look at it closely and decide then. The rest of the wiring is newer, (black, with the ground wire running on the outside), so I will change that for an appropriate power cord and maybe a new switch. I do have 220v in my garage and eventually will switch both, the radial arm saw and my table saw to 220v. At this moment the wiring in the garage is an obvious DIY (I bought the house last year) and sent a visiting electrician into a spasm  So I will wait till I can have it made safe.
I assume the order of re-assembling the saw would be 1. mount the column on the stand. 2. mount the arm on the column (the metal rod connecting the front nob and the pin that holds the arm in position came out, so I have to reconnect it), 3. mount the yoke with motor on the arm (including the tricky part with the steel balls). I will try to remember to document the process with photos.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Your process for reassembly sounds good, although I haven't had to disassemble mine to that extent. I imagine in general you'll want to reverse the process in which you took it apart. Good luck and post back here if you have any questions. I'd be happy to reference my saw to help you out.


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## zjll (Aug 16, 2016)

I have another question. One of the ball bearing covers has a bend. Is it intentional or a defect? Should I try to straighten it?


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## zjll (Aug 16, 2016)

And one more. Do you think it might be possible to find the switch key? I inspected the wires and they akll seem fine. I started thinking about restoring the original switch. There was a remnant of a key, broken inside. I removed it and the switch looks OK. I tried ebay to find the key, but no luck. Would a locksmith be able to make one?


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

That piece is bent, look at the earlier pictures in this thread of my guides, they are flat. I would try to bend that back into shape if you can do it without breaking the part. I can't imagine finding another would be easy. I'm not sure how you separated the two halves. That part in the picture is the outer guide, if you look at my earlier picture the actual bearing surface is still attached to that outer guide. I'm guessing at some point in the past someone separated those with a screwdriver and that's how you got that bend.

I doubt you'll be able to find that key online anywhere, at least not without buying the entire saw again that happens to still have one. If you look at my earlier pictures in this thread I have a pretty good picture of my "key". It's very simple, you could probably even make one out of some sheet metal and a dremel tool if you really wanted. I would probably just replace the keyed switch with a toggle switch of the same amp rating. I just leave my key inserted all the time anyway so it's basically just a toggle switch. Something to keep in mind… I haven't taken my switch apart but it must be a double pole switch since the saw can be rewired to 220v (mine is) and the same switch still works. So it must be cutting both power legs. If you got a new switch you should get the same type.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

I looked at my key more closely and it says "Arrow H&H" on it. I googled that and found quite a few pictures and sites about it. You might search for that, seems like it might still be available. Likely it was used on many machines back in the day.


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## zjll (Aug 16, 2016)

Sir, you are incredible. I appreciate your help more than I can say in the endless row of Thankyous.
Yes, it seems that the cover was bent in the past. I looked at your pictures and it confirms it. Nevertheless, prior to my taking it apart, the saw functioned OK. I have a friend who is an amateur machinist, he might help me straighten it out without breaking it. Before I go for the toggle switch, I will try to find one or attempt to make a key for it. If that fails, toggle switch comes in. Many thanks again!!!!!


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## zjll (Aug 16, 2016)

OK, I put the saw together today. The only thing left is the electrical part. I'll take some pictures tomorrow.
I chose a different, much riskier way of putting the ball bearing together. I propped up the motor so it was leveled with the tracks on the arm, then placed the balls in the channel, held it at an angle, so they don't fall out and inserted it in the groove in the arm. Then slid it forward till it rested on top of the platform and bolted it down. Considering my mediocre skills I was surprised it worked. 
Anyway, the only thing I don't like is a little play during the motor's movement on the arm. It's all tight, but the right far corner (if you face the saw) has a little vertical play. I tried the set screws, but it did not do anything (beside making it impossible to move). There is a bolt on the right-hand side that sits in an asymmetrical sleeve. I assume it is to allow the movement of the unit when adjusting the set screws? Any suggestions?
Thank you!


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## zjll (Aug 16, 2016)

Proof I really put back together….sort of  BTW, I did try to straighten the aluminum cover, got it a little straighter, but did not push it too far. It seems not to interfere with function.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Looks great! Interesting approach for reinstalling the bearings, glad it worked. As for your play on the right side; all I had to do to remove my play was loosen the right-side bearing holder and use the set screws to adjust the holder, then retighten the main holding bolts and try it out. I found that after tightening the holding bolts the adjustment would change a bit and be tighter than I had set it. So I had to set the adjustment screws for a little extra slack and then it would tighten to where I wanted it. It took a lot of trial and error. If you're having play in just the back of the right side you might need to cinch up that rear set screw a little more than the front to compensate for that. If that doesn't work it may indicate you have excessive wear in the rear of that carriage assembly. I'm not sure what you could do about that. Is the right side the one with the bend? Was there this kind of play in the saw before you disassembled it?


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Just remembered, I have a copy of the original owners manual in PDF here.

On page 12 there's a section about adjusting to compensate for wear. It provides a little more detail than what I wrote before, check it out.


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## zjll (Aug 16, 2016)

Thanks for the manual, I printed it out. I did fiddle with it little more, to no avail….so far. I was unable to find the desired middle ground. Either too loose or too tight. I think the off center, cam-like bolt will help. I just didn't have time to get to it. I did not finish the wiring either. Still looking for the right toggle switch…or perhaps just connect the wires inside the arm and put the switch outside. Thanks for your help. Will keep you posted.


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## zjll (Aug 16, 2016)

Todd1561, little update. After trying to adjust the yoke many times, I decided to completely remove the ball-bearings and start from scratch. I thought about reversing it, since they are exactly the same (the right and the left assembly with steel balls). When I removed the right side, I noticed that the front set screw is broken in half. The other half is of course, stuck in the thread. So, it's on hold until I succeed in extracting the broken set screw. Darn.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Oh that sucks. Many times those set screws are hardened steel, too, which can make them difficult to drill out. I'd try drilling into it and using an "easy out" screw extractor to back it out. You'll likely need to clean up the threads with a tap if you can get it out. Worst case you may need to drill that screw out, possibly to a larger size hole and re-tap the threads.


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## zjll (Aug 16, 2016)

Todd 1561, I finally completed the arduous re assembly of the old RAS. Thank you for all your advice and guidance through out this project. It is up and running, reasonably accurate for the type of woodworking I do, so far. I rewired it and was able to salvage the original wires. the only change was the new toggle switch instead of the key. Maybe in the future, I try to make/find the key. The broken set screw was an easy job for my friend with machinist equipment….3 minute at the most  I took off and put back the ball bearings number of times…and inevitably dropped a couple of the pesky little steel balls…..and spent a long unpleasant time crawling on my knees with the flash light 
All good at the end. Thank you again.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Looks great, nice work! Enjoy the saw and be safe!


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## GreenwoodKD (Jul 23, 2017)

I have a Craftsman Model 113.29003 Radial Arm Saw that I bought used about 50 years ago. The motor died and I needed to do some rewiring in the arm. In the course of running the wires I removed the arm latch shaft to be able to access the wiring. The arm locking pin and arm locking screw are still in place. I'm having a hard time getting the latch shaft re-engaged with the pin and screw. Does anybody have a technique for getting this done?
I love my saw! It's made out of real metal.
Thanks


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

I'm not quite sure I know what area of the saw you're talking about, can you send a pic?

Todd


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## KTNC (Sep 12, 2017)

Hi Todd1561. I also have a model 113.29003. My father-in-law gave it to me when he no longer was able to use it. I've used it a lot already, but it needs some TLC. I'm going to replace the motor bearings and clean up the track/ bearings. Your tips and pictures are very helpful to see before I get too far into it. Thanks for documenting it.


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## JGC1 (Oct 31, 2017)

I just I borrowed my dad's late 1950s craftsman radial arm saw. I'm having the same problem as GreenwoodKC. described in reinstalling the arm latch shaft to the pin and screw. This is the bar assembly inside of the arm connecting the handle on the front of the arm to the arm lock screw on the back end of the arm. This is the mechanism when loosened allows the arm to swivel for miter cuts. 
I also was doing some rewiring in the arm when the arm latch shaft came out of place. The end of the shaft has a hex socket which should fit over the arm lock screw at the back end of the arm, but it seems that the pin, which sits right above the screw is preventing the socket from seating on the screw. Just wanted to see if anyone has reinstalled this part before.
Thanks for all the other info on this old saw. It runs great and I just got the motor fixed. Anxious to get my lap joints finished for my screened in porch before the weather turns.


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## wolvman44 (Aug 24, 2018)

I have also inherited my dad's Sears Roebuck Radial Arm Saw 113.29003 model number. It is in great shape. My dad took care of it and bought it originally back in the 50s. The problem is the key got lost a number of years ago. Does anybody know how to get a replacement? They don't make it anymore.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Someone else had the same key request earlier in the thread, see my responses in posts 55/55. I just looked again and didn't see any on eBay, I think that would be about your only option. If you're just looking to get it running you could just replace the keyed switch with a toggle switch. See my suggestions in posts 55/56.

Todd


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## MrRon (Jul 9, 2009)

From a machinist's point of view, using *ANY* grit of sandpaper on a bearing surface is a big no-no. It may be the only way to clean up a rusted surface, but the bearing surface will never be a "precision" surface ever again. Such a ball bearing carriage will sound and feel gritty when pulled along the arm and bearings will soon fail. That is an old bearing setup on RAS's. Newer RAS's use ball bearing rollers instead of loose balls for obvious reason. They are easier to replace and the surface the rollers run on are not so sensitive to grit and grime. RAS technology has come a long way since the 1950's. If a new RAS were to be built today, there would be a world of new technologies to make it a super tool.


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

I'm sure the key is very ordinary and you could probably make one from any flat metal stock. It's more like a lock on cheap luggage than anything else. I'll take a look at mine if I remember tonight. As far as I recall, it is completely flat. It might be tedious, but I think I could make one if I really needed to. You might even find a luggage key that is similar enough that you wouldn't have to do much filing.

Of course, I never looked closely at it and may find that it is not at all as I recall it.

-Paul


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

It has 2 grooves ground into it on either side, but should be pretty easy to replicate with a dremel. See the pictures I posted of my key a few years ago earlier in the thread. I have mine in front of me at the moment with a digital caliper so I'll take measurements and post a drawing in case wolvmann wants to try to make one.

Todd


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Took longer than I would have liked but here's a drawing of the key in SketchUp. In addition to the 2 grooves I noted before there is a "punch" through the key. So there's a depression on one side and a protrusion on the other. I included that in the drawing, don't know if it's critical to operation or not.










SketchUp File download


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## adrianpglover (Mar 25, 2014)

I just picked up a copy of this model from my uncle recently and have been working on cleaning and reassembling it over the last week. At one point when he was transporting it from another city it fell out of his truck and broke a few pieces. He had them welded back together, but hadn't reassembled the entire saw after this accident. I had to replace a few bolts, the retaining plate at the bottom of the elevation shaft, and the power switch on the top of the saw, but I have it all cleaned up and back in working order again. Quite a testament to the construction if it can be dropped off the back of a truck and still be salvaged.

I've spent some time reading through this thread and have caught up on everything. I realize that I'm reviving a rather old thread, but this seems to be the best one to discuss this saw in.

In repairing this saw I ran into many of the same issues that others mentioned: the bent roller guide that @zjll mentioned in #53 (caused by over tightening the hand screw that keeps the carriage from sliding down the arm); the issues in #39/40 where the carriage moves freely in the center but not the rear or front end of the track (still haven't gotten it adjusted quite right); the "Arm Latch Shaft Assembly" disengaging from the "Arm Lock Pin" as mentioned by @JGC1 in post #70; and some others that weren't mentioned here.

The only issues I haven't been able to rectify so far is getting the proper fit on the carriage so that it doesn't roll on its own in the middle of the track or stick hard in the rear/front of the track; the swivel latch pin on mine was bent and sticks a lot in the latch pin housing, making it difficult to get a good set on the heel/toe of the blade; and a section of casting on the motor is missing where the motor support bearing engages the motor and helps hold it steady/hold it up during operation. This last one I'm thinking of fixing with some J-B Weld putty and drilling out, but I haven't decided on yet.

I will note that while I don't know the year of my saw, the motor is in a black plastic housing and I have/had a toggle switch for the power, not a key switch. The plastic housings that go around the carriage were destroyed in the fall, so I only have a few small pieces of what was there and the bearings are exposed.

I do have a question though: I have the original table for the saw, although it was broken in the fall. I can make a new one using the old one as a template. However, I don't have the dimensions of the rear table, spacer, or fence. Anyone on here that can provide me with some rough dimensions (mainly depth of each piece)?


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

As for the top, you can really just custom make it to fit your needs. I didn't have any of my original table and just built it into my long work bench, there's probably a pic earlier in this thread. I just cut the top so the fence was positioned just ahead of the blade so you could swing the arm around and not bind on the fence, but still give decent cut depth. The fence itself was just a scrap piece of poplar, probably 3/4" thick and 2-3" tall and maybe 36" wide. But all those dimensions are modifiable. The back piece was just cut to fit after I had the main table and fence in place.

Post up a pic and we can probably get you a better idea on the age, but given it's black it's probably no older than the 1970's


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## adrianpglover (Mar 25, 2014)

Here are a few pictures of my RAS, as well as some of the pieces that broke and other odds and inns that were included with the saw. I know what all the pieces are. There's the knob off of the elevation handle that had broken off, a few guard pieces that I'm missing the attachment mechanism for, the pieces of the plastic carriage guard, etc. It also came with an assortment of dull, cheap, old blades, none with a negative rake angle. As you can see from the pictures, I have the gold colored cabinet and arm, but a grey plastic motor and guard. From what I've read on the age of these saws this looks to be a transition model between the golden cabinets and the grey ones.


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## Todd1561 (Jan 10, 2011)

Oh wow that looks like quite the Frankenstein machine. I highly doubt it came from the factory like that. The frame looks just like my 1958 model but the motor looks decades later, in fact just like the 1980s variant my father has. But his frame has a matching black/grey appearance. I suspect the motor burned out on this saw years ago and someone adapted a later motor to it. I think I can see "85" printed on the motor plate. That motor coming from 1985 would make sense.


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## adrianpglover (Mar 25, 2014)

I just confirmed with my uncle that he did have to replace the motor. The old one had died and he was running a frame shop and had to put a replacement in to get a commission out. He said he still has the old one, just couldn't find it when he gave me the RAS. I don't know if he had the old one repaired or not. Interesting that the mounting points didn't change in some 20 years from the original manufacture in the early '60s to the mid-'80s.


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## KTNC (Sep 12, 2017)

Hi adrianpglover:

I have have a Craftsman 113.29003 also. I restored it over 2 years ago and it's my main saw. I got it from my father in law and thankfully he never dropped it off a truck!

I gotta hand it to you for working on that Frankenstein monster. I suggest you look for a more complete/original saw that hasn't been so abused and use the one you have as a parts saw. I recently bought a complete 113.29003, cabinet and some extras for $30 on Craigslist.

If you want to learn more about how to arrange and size the tables, here's a link to a good video





I made a blog about restoring a Powr Kraft radial arm saw and on entry #8 posted 6/14/2018 I made some comments on how I designed the table. It might help you with your sizing questions. I'm not recommending what I did is good for everybody. I'm 6'3 and so can reach over that extra deep table. I gave the powr kraft saw to my son in law who is about 5'10 and we ended up cutting the table back 6 inches to make it comfortable for him
https://www.lumberjocks.com/KTNC/blog/122441.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

regards, Kerry


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## adrianpglover (Mar 25, 2014)

Unfortunately CL doesn't have any great deals in my area on RAS right now. One guy has a "2 year old" Craftsman and asking some $675 for it. Other options mostly start at $200.

From what I can tell from this machine, it looks and feels like it's in pretty good working order now. I do need to make a new table since the one I have is cracked right at the 90 degree saw kerf. Looks like the kerf was in line with a joint in the glued up table, so when it rolled out of the truck it broke there. I don't feel like spending the kind of money to make a full Mr. Sawdust table. For now I may just use a piece of plywood or chipboard that I have laying around, at least until I can prove to myself that this saw can be made decently accurate and hold its accuracy some.

I found another post on here about how to fix my issues with the swivel latch pin. I tried them and got it close, but it was still sticking, so I took the manual's advice and a little bit of machine oil loosened it right up.

The only lasting damage from the roll at this point to the saw itself seems to be that the base/cabinet is bent some, such that the arm is tilting down in the front slightly. It's not bad. I'm certain if I make a new table top that I can adjust the table to account for it. If you look closely in the pictures above, you may notice that the elevation column tube has had some repairs done to it. When this rolled, I'm told it snapped that tube off. My uncle had a machinist weld, grind, smooth, and straighten that column. It has some surface rust on it now and won't enter the base, but then the break is high enough that it wouldn't enter the base anyways.

Since I don't have the covers for the carriage (I have one that the screw holes are broken out and a small piece of the other cover) and those covers give the markings for the in-rip and out-rip measurements, so I checked out ebay on a whim last night. I didn't find one for this generation of saw, but I found the black covers from the generation that started around 1965 or so, and they look to be identical molds. Not getting them now, but I did think about how funny it would look to have parts from 3 different generations of RAS on the one saw, to make it a real Frankenstein's machine.

I'm planning on following the alignment procedures in "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw", but I haven't been able to get the feeling he described on the roller track of firm, but smooth and that it would stay where I put it. I've gotten the slack out of the track so that you can't rock the motor back and forth no matter the force, but I can't seem to get it tightened up just enough that it will roll smoothly when I push it, but stay where I stop pushing it at. Any special techniques here or just trial and error?


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## KTNC (Sep 12, 2017)

> I can t seem to get it tightened up just enough that it will roll smoothly when I push it, but stay where I stop pushing it at. Any special techniques here or just trial and error?
> 
> - adrianpglover


There is a procedure on page 12 of the manual for adjusting the carriage. It's under a heading "ADJUSTMENTS TO COMPENSATE FOR WEAR".

It's been a while since I did that adjustment, but I do recall using an "F" clamp to help squeeze the carriage ball race/retainer together while I tightened the bolts.

If it feels loose in one part of the travel and tight in a different place that could be because the ways (groove where the carriage bearings roll) are worn unevenly. Or maybe there's some gunk stuck on them that effectively makes them thicker in places. Worst case, the arm got bent when it fell off the truck so there's an indentation causing the width between the ways to vary as you move along the arm.

Kerry


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## adrianpglover (Mar 25, 2014)

Great idea on using the "F" clamps for getting the correct fit! I used a pair to put pressure from the ball race/retainer on one side of the arm to the other, keeping the pressure there while I tightened the bolts that hold it together. On the second try I got what feels like what is described in the fine tuning a RAS book. Thanks for the great suggestion.

It does still stick a little on the last inch next to the column as well as the last 4-6 inches at the full extension of the arm. I attribute both of these to wear. Along the majority of the travel on the arm the movement is firm, but smooth and even.


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