# How to build a work bench like a Sjoberg.



## Sanderguy777 (Feb 9, 2015)

I really need a new work bench. Whenever I use my hand planes, I move the whole bench and I can't use my hold fast cause I don't have a thick enough bench top. I plan to use pine for the whole thing.

I need your ideas on design and advise on the vises especially. I have a cheap vise but it is not the quality, or the size that the nice big benches have. I was looking at a nice fat 1" x 20" bench vise screw, or the cabinet maker's front vise from Grizzly. I don't want to spend all that money but I think it's worth the money for a good solid vise that will last forever.

Do you think that I should use the wimpy vise I have or should I get the front vise?

Basically what I need is a REALLY solid and indestructible bench that will not move when I use my planes on it. 
What about storage? I am thinking about cabinets and drawers. I also think that I will use a slanted board or something for the dust and chips that fall through the dog holes.

I also carve so I would like any advise on related accessories.

Thanks


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## GregInMaryland (Mar 11, 2010)

My google-fu tells me that a simple search for 'workbench plans' will result in 100's of options. The latest rage is Roubo bench - thick heavy top with plenty of clamping options.

Here's a link to my Roubo bench: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/64038

Good luck.

Greg


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

You only want to do this once, so I recommend you do a bit of studying before you get started.
Both Scott Landis and Chris Scwarz have excellent books on the subject.

The workbench is kind of a rite of passage for ww'ers so building it yourself is traditional.

Workbenches can be anything from simple utilitarian devices to works of art, so it depends on what you're philosophy is and what you're going to do with it.

You can buy a workbench, but plan on spending at least $1K for a decent one.
Tops can be made of everything from 4" thick hard maple to laminated sheets of plywood.

Yes, the Roubo is all the rage these days, but personally I don't like the knee vice.
I do like the idea of flush legs to faciliate clamping wide boards vertically for edge work.

Two basic principles apply:

1. A sound, heavy, base structure that will not rack or move.
2. A heavy, thick, durable top that will stand up to hammering, chiselling, etc.

You're finished bench should be weighing in the 200-300 pound range.

As for vices, it depends on the type of bench you decide on.
There are tail vices, shoulder vices, wagon vices, roubo vices, twin screw vices, etc.

The simplest route, and one you're familiar with is the ageless woodworkers vice or front vise.
Personally, I have a Jorgensen on the front of my bench and a Rockler on the end.
Plan on spending $150-$180 for a decent vice.

Jorgenson:









Rockler:









Once you decide on a design, then you need to decide on material.
Personally, I like the Scandinavian (Frank Klausz) type bench with the shoulder vise.
I will eventually build one of hard maple.

I made my bench from a section of bowling alley lane and I made the base of 5×5 pine beams.
I wrapped it with an apron and put my dog holes in.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

Try this forum. More info than you will ever be able to process.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/31539


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

Very minor technical point.
The Jorgensen vise Robert posted in his thread is a "Face" vise. 
A "Front" vise is often made of components to which you add your own faces (jaws).
I never had a front vise that didn't rack and move around.
The face vise, as shown, has always been my preference.
I have two of them; one on the front of my bench and one on the end.
They are great, and I paid less than $100 each for them.

And +1 on the work bench books.
I got the Schwarz books about half way through building my bench and had to back up some.
Excellent books. Very practical advise.


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

One of the replies stated "You only want to do this once…", I disagree. A work bench is very personal and the only way to have a bench that fits you is to find what works for you by working on different benches. Books will not do that job. Over the years through many bench builds I've finally built what I expect is my, emphasis on "my", perfect bench. Early benches were built to the fashion of the day and were built to cover all perceived needs. I've found that approach makes a overly "fussy" bench. With each bench build the benches have become simpler and more functional. BTW, I will get to the chase.

Here it is: build it simple, build it stout with good joinery (it is hard to make it too heavy), build it quick, and build it cheap. Once built, go to work on it, once there are enough things about the bench that bug you, build another using the same build it quick and cheap routine. Move the first bench to a secondary position, you always need more benches in a shop, work on the second bench. Wash and repeat.

I've built many more but at this time I have three generations of work benches in my shop, each different but all work as needed. The current bench is as close to perfect as I expect is possible.


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## mramseyISU (Mar 3, 2014)

Another bit of advice, pick up the Chris Schwarz workbench books. 
http://smile.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1428069109&sr=8-2&keywords=Chris+Schwarz

http://smile.amazon.com/Workbench-Design-Book-Philosophy-Building/dp/1440310408/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428069109&sr=8-1&keywords=Chris+Schwarz

The blue book only has plans for a couple benches the red book has plans for like 10 benches. In both books he says don't bother copying the benches, use them for ideas and come up with what you want in a bench. I'm in the middle of gathering supplies for the Holtzapffel style bench shown in the red book with the vices in the Lang Bench. Another good place to look is on you tube. Paul Sellers and Renaissance WW both have video series on building benches worth checking out.


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## Ripthorn (Mar 24, 2010)

First, may I state that I have never used, but mostly because I don't trust the look, of a Sjorberg. It just looks too lightweight for me, so I would recommend coming up with a design that looks borderline overbuilt. I made mine out of materials from the hardware store: 4×4's for the legs, 2×6's for the stretchers, and 2×4's for the top. I used mortise and tenons, big ones. The legs are drawbored and the stretchers are bolted so that I can break the whole thing down for moving (which came in handy moving from NY to TX last year).

I agree that you will find things that bug you about your first bench. It's just going to happen. How you work will change some over time. That is why am not going to build a bench out of walnut and curly maple for a LONG time, if ever . I would love one, but I need several years of refining my approach and technique before I want to commit that much cash to a bench.

I recommend storage underneath. I have some drawers and shelves that store sandpaper, measuring and layout tools, fasteners, etc.

As for vises, I bought the LV economy front vise and am satisfied with it, especially for the price.


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## rad457 (Jun 15, 2013)

Sjoberg design hybrid is what I am in the process of designing and building. Picked up my vises from Lee Valley, A face vise above a flush leg and of course a tail on the other end. Intend to have a sliding deadman and use holddowns so the dog holes will be 3/4" round. I was lucky enough to get some old dry rough milled Birch at an affordable price and have been collecting some other hard woods for vice faces. IMHO the most important thing is do not rush into it, take your time and enjoy every detail of the build. Also great excuse to buy more tools that you may need for the build!


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I did the Chris Schwarz SYP bench, ripping floor joists for the top, 2×6's for legs (doubled) and stretchers. I used a Woodriver Large Front Vise ($74.99) for the end vise and Small Front Vise ($52.49) for the front vise. About as cheap, sturdy, and durable as you can get for your first homemade bench. There are lots of interesting vises out there: Moxon, Tail Vise, wagon vise, Leg Vise, etc. I decided to go with the 2 WoodRiver vises because it got me up and going the fastest. When I make a new bench (no time soon), I'll reconsider what vises I have.


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## RichardHillius (Oct 19, 2013)

This book has a large section of it dedicated to talking about different bench type operations and explores the different work holding options. It's probably the best reference I have read to date on work holding options.

http://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428072687&sr=8-1&keywords=workbenches+schwarz

I didn't realize it until I looked it up this morning but if you are a Amazon Prime member you can read the book for free.

Personally I would say making a bench with a stable base and good heavy top is more important than your work holding options. My current bench is based around the cantilevered leg design build out of construction grade 4X6's. I consider it a temporary bench but it is rock solid and is working a lot better than I thought it would. it's miles ahead of the bench's I had before which the legs where to flimsy and the top to thin to really support hand work. They where good machine shop benches but horrible hand tool ones.

Something like this except not able to be taken apart. http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/wMyers/moravianBench/moravianBench-01.asp


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## sepeck (Jul 15, 2012)

Workbenches are funny things. There are a wide variety of designs and certainly Chris Schwartz has popularized some over others and been writing a lot about his latest ones which match his wood working style. Some of the above mentioned threads can also be overwhelming. I have a cheapy light weight one which works 'well enough for now' but I plan on something like Paul Sellers design. Since you mention pine, this would be an option for you.

Part 1-11 are here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLD39949332C7FB168

If you watch his other videos you can get an idea for how he works an decide if that matches or is close enough to how you work.


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## BigMig (Mar 31, 2011)

I found a local guy who had some de-commissioned workbench tops. I guess they came out of a school or factory or something. Anyway, I made the led and stretcher structure and have an awesome workbench that went together pretty fast - compared to making a laminated top.

Investigate Woodsmith mag for designs…and others too.

Good luck !


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

Just a little expansion on the first post.

Here is a photo of the next to last bench:










A photo of my current bench:









You might not be able to tell from the photos but the basic construction is the same, as it has been on the last few bench builds. A heavy base with a split top. The top is about 100mm thick, around 610mm across including the split, and close to 2500mm long.

Some of the evolutionary changes on the latest bench are: An asymmetrical slab. Working side 420mm, off side 190mm. Lost the deadman and replaced with an English style apron. Lost the wagon vise and replaced with nothing, stops, doe's foot, and battens with holdfasts do the same job better and quicker. Lost the leg vise, what a PITA, a metal English QR such as a Paramo or Record works better and may be cheaper. Bottom shelf is flush with the stretchers instead of recessed, easier to keep clean. As I expected this bench to be the end of the evolutionary line it is made of European Beech vs. SYP. Beech is much nicer to work than Maple and when I built cheaper plus damn it's nice to work on and pretty to boot.

ken


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## Sanderguy777 (Feb 9, 2015)

The first and only bench I built was in Idaho. It had ceder 4×4's for the legs (somebody built a trash can holder out of ceder 4×4's!! I took it apart and they made really nice legs.) and 3/4 in. plywood for the top. When that got too annoying, I took a bunch of random 2×4's and put them on the plywood as a sacrificial top. The top was 4 in. thick but I didn't have hand planes so I couldn't make it smooth. In any case we moved about 6,500 miles from there so I left that one there for the next guy.

Anyway, I was thinking that I could build this one onto a wall. What would be the problems associated with that?

How high is the bench supposed to be for planing? The place on the wall that I was eyeing looks like it is high enough for what I need but I think there's probably a science to bench height.

I just want a bench that will not move and I can clamp things in or on.


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## Sanderguy777 (Feb 9, 2015)

The big problem for me is that lumber here is EXPENSIVE!!! It costs $3 a meter and is super soft (it grows faster and is a variety of pine that doesn't hardly smell.

All I want is a bench that WON'T MOVE…EVER.

There are three options IMO. going from easy to better they are as follows. 
1. use one of the benches that are already here and just mount a vise and maybe a top. 
2. build a bench on the wall that is mounted to the wall on one side and a leg structure on the other. 
3. I like this the best. I could build a bench out of pine the normal way and put a vise on it. This will be the strongest, and best customized to my needs.

What is the best? the only two problems with the wall mount are also it's strengths. It doesn't move so I can't go around it. The other problem is it is on an end wall so I will have limited possible board length.

Thanks


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> One of the replies stated "You only want to do this once…", I disagree. A work bench is very personal and the only way to have a bench that fits you is to find what works for you by working on different benches. Books will not do that job. Over the years through many bench builds I've finally built what I expect is my, emphasis on "my", perfect bench.


You have a very nice bench, but respectfully, with this philosophy, wouldn't one end up with several expensive assembly tables or countertops? I mean, you can only use one bench at a time, no?

I agree with building a bench with one's needs in mind, but after looking at your benches I'm curious as to what "overly fussy" means? My bench seems bare bones compared to your's…...

It appears the first one could have been modified instead of doing a complete new build, no?

To each his own, but I believe the workbench should be approached carefully and with a lot of thought, and I, for one, got huge insight into benches by studying the aforementioned books.

A lot of ww'ers take the approach that their workbench is a central, signature piece of equipment reflective of their craftsmanship and built to last more than a lifetime.

- BubbaIBA
[/QUOTE]


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> The big problem for me is that lumber here is EXPENSIVE!!! It costs $3 a meter and is super soft (it grows faster and is a variety of pine that doesn t hardly smell.
> 
> All I want is a bench that WON T MOVE…EVER.
> 
> ...


Wow, you are in the middle of nowhere, aren't you?

Perhaps if you described what kind affordable building materials are available to you we could be of more help.

Are there any sawmills in Tonga? If so, can you obtain rough lumber from a sawmill and mill it yourself?


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## RichardHillius (Oct 19, 2013)

> The big problem for me is that lumber here is EXPENSIVE!!! It costs $3 a meter and is super soft (it grows faster and is a variety of pine that doesn t hardly smell.
> 
> All I want is a bench that WON T MOVE…EVER.
> 
> ...


Retro fitting a existing bench may or may not be easier depending on what you need to put into it to make it as stable as you like. I looked at the Harbor Freight bench with the thought of beefing it up but by the time I was done I doubt there would have been enough of the original bench left to make it worth it.

I have had a bench pushed up against a wall before and really didn't like it. You can't move around your bench to get at pieces of work from all sides and the wall is constantly in the way when you are doing things like clamping glue ups. You also can't hang pieces off the back of your bench so larger pieces become very difficult to work on. I ended up moving the bench to a spot where it was accessible from all sides even though I gave up a bunch of floor space in my cramped shop to do it.

Softer woods would be fine for a base but I don't know about the top. It depends on what you do but I prefer a harder top. It doesn't have to be something like hard maple but you don't want it too soft either. I currently have a bench made of construction grade Fir and it's a good hardness. It stands up well but doesn't dent my work if I drop it on the bench. My current bench was build from 4 8' 4X6's and 2 8' 2X6's. I cut the legs to length one off each 4X6 than used what was left for the top. The 2X6's became the lower stretchers of the bench. It was fairly quick and cheap to build with the splayed legs being the most difficult part. It does not look pretty but it's very solid and works well for me with a few dog holes and a Woodriver large front vise mounted on it. I consider it a temporary bench until I get the room to build a bigger one but it does work well for what it is. My only suggestion would be to buy the better grade construction lumber from a yard rather than a big box store and try and find dryer pieces that have been in the yard for awhile under cover if possible.

Best of luck.


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

> You have a very nice bench, but respectfully, *with this philosophy, wouldn t one end up with several expensive assembly tables or countertops? I mean, you can only use one bench at a time, no?
> *
> 
> I have three benches in my shop, all were at one time the primary bench. All three are used daily and not as expensive assembly tables. One is my sharpening bench, the other is a overflow bench and I work back and forth between it and the primary bench…I can and do use more than one bench at a time.
> ...


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## Sanderguy777 (Feb 9, 2015)

There is a mill, but I think it's just as much. I know I can get bigger boards there but isn't it better to use a lot of little boards rather than one or two big ones? The other problem is that the boards in this country warp instantly.


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## Sanderguy777 (Feb 9, 2015)

There is a lumber store and a sawmill. I don't think that they make any plywood here so if I use it, I will have to pay about $45 for a 4×8 x 3/8 sheet. Its smooth but at those prices it should be gold plated!

My "bench," now, is scrap, consisting of 36×10" plywood "boards," 1×6's, and a 1×4. It is about 3/4" thick. It is mounted on hinges to my miter saw bench that is on wheels so I really need to upgrade.

*Richard H* I like your idea of the splayed legs. I built a step stool with splayed legs and I could park a car on it. What did you use for the top, the 4×6's? I think I'll go with that design but how high is a bench supposed to be?

When I do this I will trash a couple benches to make room for this one. So I'm leaning toward a 5' x 30-36" top and about 30-36" high. I like the idea of vertical clamping on the legs, so flush legs in the front and splayed legs in the back or maybe a splayed and a flush on both sides.

It would be a retro fit, but what do you think of retractable casters later on?


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## CharlesA (Jun 24, 2013)

I was considering putting workbench casters on mine, but then followed Chris Schwarz's suggestion that it is relatively easy to push the bench around if you're just talking a couple feet at a time. Works just fine for me.

If I were doing casters, I'd do these since they're so easy to add on:


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> One is my sharpening bench, the other is a overflow bench and I work back and forth between it and the primary bench


You've made my point, sir.

Sharpening bench = waste of a bench.
Overflow bench = another waste of a bench.

I hope you at least reused the vices!!

Turning a workbench you've spend hours building into just another horizontal surface is your right.


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## sepeck (Jul 15, 2012)

> One is my sharpening bench, the other is a overflow bench and I work back and forth between it and the primary bench
> 
> You ve made my point, sir.
> 
> ...


I don't think he made your point. I think he made his. His work style/workflow may not be yours. He seems to have a larger amount of space to work with then me and if this fits his needs and projects then more power to him. Also, I wish I had space for a dedicated sharpening spot. Currently sharpening is an interrupt in my work flow so it doesn't get done as often as it should. That he recycled an old work bench is interesting but not shocking, it's a flat surface of an appropriate height. Perhaps he works on larger or more complex projects. Having space to leverage different work areas would be cool. Maybe he likes building work benches.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

Yes, the Roubo is all the rage these days, but personally I don't like the knee vice.

Lost the leg vise, what a PITA, a metal English QR such as a Paramo or Record works better and may be cheaper.

===========

Don't know what a knee vise is. And a leg vise is not a PITA. Putting a face vise on a roubo is a personal preference, not an absolute. I wouldn't do without my leg vise, and spent a princely sum of $22 to get it.


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## exelectrician (Oct 3, 2011)

If you can get your hands on a Record "Made in England" vice then grab it!!
They are very special and are treasured by proud owners world wide.
Note: Stay away from the junk that Irwin makes in China, and other copies made in India.


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## TheFridge (May 1, 2014)

I used hardwood, mostly poplar, for my 48×20 workbench top. Scraps from a local cabinet shop for free. Rock solid after laminating. If time=money and you have the time, it could be an option.


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

> One is my sharpening bench, the other is a overflow bench and I work back and forth between it and the primary bench
> 
> You ve made my point, sir.
> 
> ...


sepeck,

I would almost give up my primary work bench before my sharpening bench, I might as well because my work flow would be destroyed. While I'm fortunate to have a small sharpening bench a couple of steps to the left of the primary work area of my bench I've seen setups that take very little room. Rob Cosman's is a very good example, a small area at the end of his bench that holds two stones plus his flatting plate and a water bottle. Works well and takes up very little space. If you haven't take a look at his set up.

I must like building benches, I just finished another one for a friend. We set it upright yesterday. Base is only a couple of mm out of square, the top has no wind, and is flat enough to work on. Made of Home Depot construction grade DF. It's as ugly as granny panties but solid and stable. I like to think part of the ugliness is because I didn't do most of the joinery, it was a talk about, show one, have the friend make one under my eye then turn him lose for the others type project….Of course the base is square and the top flat because of my work .

ken


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

> If you can get your hands on a Record "Made in England" vice then grab it!!
> They are very special and are treasured by proud owners world wide.
> Note: Stay away from the junk that Irwin makes in China, and other copies made in India.
> 
> - exelectrician


I couldn't agree more, mine are Paramos (made under the Record patent) I acquired back in the late 70's. They have been on several benches over the years and I expect they will out last me. They work better than any other vise I've used.

ken


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## 85497 (Apr 3, 2013)

This is the Roubo I recently completed. It sounds like it fits all your wants:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/134802


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

Now that's one stout bench, congratulations Pat3!


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## 85497 (Apr 3, 2013)

Thank you, it is.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

> I don t think he made your point. I think he made his. His work style/workflow may not be yours. He seems to have a larger amount of space to work with then me and if this fits his needs and projects then more power to him. Also, I wish I had space for a dedicated sharpening spot. Currently sharpening is an interrupt in my work flow so it doesn t get done as often as it should. That he recycled an old work bench is interesting but not shocking, it s a flat surface of an appropriate height. Perhaps he works on larger or more complex projects. Having space to leverage different work areas would be cool. Maybe he likes building work benches.
> 
> - sepeck


Whatever, all I'm saying is the point of the thread was advice on building a workbench.

I don't think building one - or two - or three until you find one you like, is good advice.

I think the best approach to a workbench project as build it once/build it right.


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## Sanderguy777 (Feb 9, 2015)

I will try the build once/ build right, but I can only do that to a certain point. For one thing, I can't buy all the vises I want for it so that is limiting. Second, I may move from Tonga in a year so I don't know if I want 200 pounds of vises and bench stuff to put in boxes and move. Third, I have limited money so I can only afford what I can afford.

Anyway, I am curious what a leg vise is and why everybody hates them. So, (without profanity) could you explain how they work and why you don't like them.

Are Grizzly vises OK? They are cheaper, but I actually saw a LV for about 25 bucks more. It might be the way to go if for no other reason than bragging rights… little good here as I doubt if anybody here would know a LV from a HF…

What vises should I get? I have a* cheap* 6" front vise that I will be using. What else will I need?


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/70524

Shipwright has some vises that may be of interest:


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

At the minimum, you need a front vise.
6" is on the small side but if it tightens, it will work.
I've found if you line the jaws with sandpaper it increases the holding power a lot.
Watching Paul Sellers, all he uses is a front vise.

In the post by wahoe, the vertical vise to the far left is what I call a leg vice. 
The bottom has pegs to adjust to various thickness of object being clamped.
Very cumbersome to a lot of people, but one of the oldest vices.

You can build your own vice if you can make threaded rods, but you will need dowel stock.
Check you tube under "Mr Carters Account" this young man does an excellent job of explaining the construction and use of threading fixtures.
Also, John Heinz has a video on a homemade shop vice you could take a look at.

I've seen a couple videos on Japanese woodworking. 
The bench is a simple hewed log or beam.
Clamps are twisted leather straps.
Perhaps if there are some native ww'ers you could explore their methods, ala "when in Rome do as the Romans do"?

Good luck with your venture.

If you don't mind me asking, what is your country of origin and what do you do in Tonga?


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

"Anyway, I am curious what a leg vise is and why everybody hates them. So, (without profanity) could you explain how they work and why you don't like them?"

Take a look at this blog entry to see a leg vise in use. http://lumberjocks.com/Smitty_Cabinetshop/blog/23153


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## sepeck (Jul 15, 2012)

I am not sure everyone hates leg vices. I don't, but I also don't have one. How people work is largely a product of training and finding something that works for them. You mentioned a budget which is why I mentioned the Paul Sellers video series. An alternative to that is a Nicholson style bench (which admittedly isn't that different)

here's a nice video on how one is used. You would want a hold fast or two, but otherwise that seems to be it. The video covers a wide variety of ways to hold wood with out a vice so that may save you money. 





It's an old design and you can find examples of it on the web.
https://anthonyhaycabinetmaker.wordpress.com/2011/01/10/hello-world/
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/65385


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

sepeck

Thanks for reposting the Mike Siemsen video. It should be on the required viewing list of anyone thinking about building a work bench. While I love my QR English metal vises and use them often I also have found that many if not most operations can be done easier, quicker, if not better by using stops, battens, including doe's foots, and holdfasts.

Kinda takes it back to my original post. If you want a bench to make furniture don't over think and engineer it, build it heavy, stout, quickly and cheaply. A bench like Mike was using is very quick to build, does not cost a lot of money, will get you started so you are building furniture instead of shop appliances, and from that build you can figure out what works for you and what doesn't.

BTW, I'm still using the first "wood working" bench I built back in the 70's. It's now my sharpening bench and is still doing a great job and is in use daily. I would guess one of the best things to happen to me as far as wood working is concerned was not having the money to build or buy the bench that was in fashion back in the day. If I had I would have ended up with a German style bench and so much time and/or money in it it would have been hard to change to benches that better fit my work flow.

If you want a bench to show off your wood working skills or just like to build benches that's another story because as with all things wood….YMMV.

ken


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## wormil (Nov 19, 2011)

My feeling is that in woodworking there are schools of thought on how things are done and if you stay within a certain school then the tools, work holding, and techniques that go together will all work seamlessly. When you start mixing and matching schools of thought, mixing types of work holding devices, then it can be less satisfactory.


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## bandit571 (Jan 20, 2011)

Built a work bench from recycled items
Took most of a Sunday afternoon

Later added a leg vise ( pipe clamp for the "screw" to clamp it) and a Crochet.

Built to fit in the Dungeon Shop ( SMALL celler) and still have room to use it.

Wasn't all that thick a top, @ 1-1/2", wasn't that wide, either. BUT

I can clamp about anything down to it. Long boards go between the leg vise on the right and the crochet on the left. There is a tool well for the tools in use. Every now n then, have to clean it out.

Top is just an old bed frame, the side board of a waterbed. Best quality Pine 2x stock. As such, I don't really care IF I need to screw a jig down to the top. Once a year, I just level the play-ing field with a long bodied plane, re-coat in BLO, and get back to work.

Plans? Wasn't any, just went with what was on hand. It also had to travel down some basement steps to reach the shop. myself and a grandson made the "trip", with the bench on it's top sliding down the steps. Most ezpensive was those 2" screws to assemble the bench. Box full was $7! Pipe clamp was worn out, since replaced with another one. Crochet was just some 2x oak, and a pair of large lag screws and washers.

Biggest thing was, at the end of that sunday afternoon, I was doing work ON the bench. 









From the tool well side. You can make out the leg vise. You can also look at my avatar for the front. There is a line of dog holes, and a supply of plastic dogs from a Work mate. Might keep this one around awhile…


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## Mykos (Jun 27, 2013)

My current workbench is viseless. I'll probably end up making a moxon vise that I can stash away under the bench for when it's not needed and then bring it up for working on the ends of boards. Holdfasts and a wonder dog with battens have let me accomplish anything I want to so far.

Mine is a small portable bench, so it really lends itself to viseless application. If I had an actual shop of my own then I'd have a larger bench with a leg vise and tail vise most likely.


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## crank49 (Apr 7, 2010)

> What vises should I get? I have a* cheap* 6" front vise that I will be using. What else will I need?
> 
> - Sanderguy777


You need to return the front vise and get a face vise. That is most of what you will need probably; depends on what you work on.
I have found a cheap Groz quick release face vise will work 1000% better than a good front vise.
I have a large front vise from Woodcraft I'll give you if you want to pay the postage.
A front vise will rack and bind up and won't really hold anything. At least that has been my experience with them.


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## Sanderguy777 (Feb 9, 2015)

Sorry. I think it is a face vise. It has built in metal jaws, if that is the difference.

I wish I could take you up on the vise, but postage from the states to here, for that amount of weight is about as much as the vise is new. And if it doesn't work for you, I probably won't get it to either. But thanks for the offer.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

" wood is very expensive" 
"I may move in one year"

Save you money for the wood for furniture and use reclaimed lumber for the workbench as Bandit did.

Look at Bandit's projects and blogs, obviously it is not a pretty workbench which makes the woodworker.
A guy who is making wonders with no workbench (when he is at sea) is Jonas 
He is using a scrap piece of 4X4 in a machinist vice.

As for moving workbenches you may put some drawer lining under the legs.
See also this post (and the last sentence.)

I have always thought that it could not be possible that those traditional benches made by for exemple Emmerich  (page 40) would not be fit for the purpose. (note that the weight is around 120 kg and the top is 65mm thick [120 mm at the dog hole bar].)

If you have room, don't put the bench against a wall.

Interesting Paul Sellers video  
He is 5'10" high and advocates a 38 or 39" bench height. If you don't like it, make your bench in such a way thet you can shorten the legs later.

Now I am no expert, I just try to make sense of what I read.


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## Sanderguy777 (Feb 9, 2015)

I fixed the my bench the other day. I attached sturdier, permanent legs and when I saw that that didn't help the movement, I decided to lose the casters. Bear in mind that they added about 3" to the height of the bench so rather than take them off and cut the other legs down so they would be level, ( I tried that once, once was WAY to many times) I decided to jack the whole thing up a 1/4" or so and add 2×4s for legs. It worked like a dream. The bench is now almost as solid as the one I had in Idaho, and weighs much less. The best part? I broke a bunch of cheap, rusty old bits, so pretty soon I can use my good ones for a change.

The other thing I did was to the top of the bench. Instead of making the top thicker all over, I just added a 2×4 under the dog holes. I also drilled some dog holes in a straight line from my newly installed face vise.

I think I will have to wait on the new bench, but if I decide to stay here then that is a must.

Thank you all for the tips and the ideas, I will be sure to use them when I build my bench.


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