# Using the Delta T-2 to replace the Ridgid 4511 fence



## NormG

Maybe, it is partially due to the Granite top


----------



## dpop24

Thanks for the great review and fantastic write up. I'm planning on doing this same upgrade to my R4511 as well. This is a great instructional and I'll be sure to check back when I do mine.


----------



## 6t5Goat

I too had problems with my R4511 fence rail being two pieces.. But I just replaced the problem part.. 
the 2*2 square tubing.. I hate spending $$$ when I don't have too..

Check out the below website for all your fence upgrading metal..

http://www.onlinemetals.com/

I'm not affilated in any way other than being a happy customer once..


----------



## Bertha

Strong work! I had to tap my vintage JET rails. Not for the meek


----------



## jobott

Thanks for the writeup. I have the same saw as well and have considered replacing the fence. Myabe this is the answer. By the way, I noticed a Rikon band saw in the background of one of the photos. I am very close to ordering one. How do you like yours?


----------



## MoshupTrail

@6t5Goat - agreed. That's a nice site. But in my earlier post someone pointed out that the Ridgid fence has 3 nice dimples where they punched the holes for a fence face. And yep I had the same problem. I was using a nylon fence face and it just conformed to the 3 dimples so I had kind of a wavy fence. And you can only face one side because there are no access points under the tube to reach in with a wrench. At the end of the day, I wanted to change out the fence too.

@Bertha - I thought about that. I might have used the Ridgid rail if I could have drilled and tapped the Delta guide tube. I would have also needed to shim it up or it would have been too low. Too much for me though.

@jobott - I like the Rikon bandsaw, but I have nothing to compare it too. Some of the adjustments are kind of squirrely - in the tension and upper wheel in/out adjustments. Everything else is fine.


----------



## dmorrison

Thanks for the good review.
Any fence not sold with the table saw will have to be "modified" to install. I ran across a Biesemeyer 36-B30 Commercial fence the day after Christmas. I installed it on my Powermatic 63a Artisan contractor table saw.
And yes I had to drill new mounting holes in the front and rear to mount it.
an interesting note. The "commercial" fence does not use the rear rail. The rear rail just supports the right wing and table extension. The fence glides on the table top on UHMW installed on the bottom of the fence. So you could consider installing UHMW plastic on the bottom to slide on the table and remove the rear rail if you want. Of course unless its needed to support the side wings.
I did have to cut an additional slot on the rear rail to allow the motor to completely tilt to 45 degrees.
I also cut off the 2 inches of rear rail that went beyond my right 2 wings. I have both open grate wings ( covered with laminate ) on the right side of the table saw since I have a solid router wing on the left side.

Now an interesting note.
Since I cut and ground smooth the rear rail I had to paint it. I found Rust-Oleum Professional Primer (7582 Gray Primer) to be as close as I could find, just a touch darker. Since it is a primer I sprayed the rail with Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel (7701 Crystal Clear ) I'm happy with the results. As I said just a touch darker but with the rails separated you can't see the difference.

I have considered bringing a part of the Powermatic saw to a jober and having a single stage paint mixed for my 1988 saw. Then painting the complete fence Powermatic metallic Gold 1

Your saw looks great and I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

Now I have to go to Riverhead NY to install my old Vega fence on my Father-in-laws Sears table saw.

Dave


----------



## ONi7734

I just put this fence on my TS too… It's a delta so I didn't have the issues that you did. It was used but in great shape. After a light cleaning and a coat of Ballistol on the rails and fence itself and it slides with minimal effort…

Good Review!


----------



## noweyrey1

Good review, this is exactly what I was thinking of doing to my 4511. Question: Are the front and rear rails the same length on the T2, and on your saw, how many inches does the angle iron stick out to the right? Im wondering if there is enough room to add a small router table wing on it? Thanks


----------



## MoshupTrail

The T2 rails are actually a bit shorter. So you will get a full 30" cut on the right, but only about 12" on the left. So there is ample room on the right for a router table (others have done this) and the rails are beefier so it will be good and sturdy. The T2 rails do not extend beyond the table surface at all on the left. One less thing to run into while moving about the shop in my opinion.

You'll need a good 3/8" drill bit, and a 3/4" countersink for all those new holes in the rails. That was the toughest part - measuring for and drilling those holes. Fresh batteries for your drill! Be sure to use a center punch to mark them because they need to be dead on. Not much room for error. I think I pre-drilled them with a smaller drill - maybe a 3/16 if I recall.


----------



## Manns50

Digging up an old thread here. I have the Craftsman version of that saw (221160) or very close to it and will be ordering this fence system. I bought the saw as a floor model they lost the parts for the fence system. Do you have any tips might save me time or are they covered already?
I considered getting wider angle iron because of the thickness of the granite but not sure what other things this would affect, as I don't have any of the parts here yet. Thoughts?


----------



## MoshupTrail

The T-2 comes with angle irons. Although I had to drill new holes as shown, three years later it has caused no problems. I don't even think about it any more. Just do it! No hand-wringing allowed.


----------



## Manns50

Thank you for the reply. I am on the fence now (pun intended). I recieved the front rail and guide tube for this saw, the rear rail is on back order till feb 22nd. It uses the heavy guage angle iron and a 2×3 rectangle guide. I spoke to Delta and they stated the T2 uses the 2×2. Which doesn't matter other than I considered using the fence body on the rails of this saw that way the bolt holes fit. I was told by delta to purchase the 78-919BT2 and it would work on this 2×3 rail guide. The downside to that is I would have to wait on the rear rail to be shipped unless I can find some angle iron to adapt. Any thoughts or input?


----------



## Manns50

By the way Moshup, I like your signature. And unfortunately I tend to be somewhat of a hand-ringer hope to recover from this illness! Lol more like hand ringing and in depth reading and research on things I tackle but I do like to tinker and making the T2 fit looks pretty straight forward.


----------



## Burgels

I just did this exact job this weekend. I wanted to mention that in my case for the exact same saw and fence that the distance above the original holes was 3/16 not 3/8. Not sure if the OP had a typo or just a very different experience but I'm glad I double checked the measurements first.


----------

