# UPDATED!: What type of 2 part epoxy for inside mugs or tankards.



## Micahm (Aug 28, 2013)

I was looking into making the wood mugs or tankards like you see and renaissance festivals and such. Online I see people saying they use two part epoxy for the inside. I cannot however find what brand or what type. What epoxies are safe and which are not? Where can I buy the kind I need?


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

I researched this as best I could many years ago and
made 1 or 2 leather tankards. I think I actually used
black polyurethane. It did taste a little plasticky but
handled hot liquids just fine. My research indicated
it to be reasonably food safe when cured and as I
recall this is what people selling them were using, 
imitating the look of a pitch lining I suppose.

Perhaps the epoxies don't impart a plasticky taste,
which is subtle but it's one reason coffee and bear
taste best out of glass or paper cups.

If I were you I would consider building my mugs 
around a common glass or ceramic tumbler as
a liner.


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## Micahm (Aug 28, 2013)

I would like to make it out of wood only, not inserts.


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## ChrisK (Dec 18, 2009)

http://www.masterbond.com/tds/ep42ht-2fg

Poke around master bonds sight. I am sure you can email their tech staff for an answer.


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## Micahm (Aug 28, 2013)

I email the company Envirotex about there epoxy since I see many people using it online for mugs and such and they say it is not safe for this use. Only for casual food contact such as table and bar tops.

This is the reply:

Hello Micah,
EnviroTex Lite is considered safe for casual food contact, so bar tops, counter tops and table tops. It is not suitable for the inside of coffee mugs, on plates, or bowls.

Best Regards,

Marty Sanchez
Technician/Customer Service


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## bobasaurus (Sep 6, 2009)

I looked into this once and learned that Waterlox is food safe when cured, and water and heat resistant. The downside is the curing takes a long time… it can take weeks for the solvents to fully evaporate out. I'm also not sure how well it holds up to alcohol, I'll have to try this someday.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

I've made mugs just as you're talking about and have done extensive research but wasn't able to find any FDA approved epoxy, I've also heard that no matter what finish you use be it Shellac, Lacquer, Poly to epoxy any finish… on any surface once it's dried and cured there's no leaching but nothing has been tested or proven, it's all hear say, I've read the articles from those that make mugs and how to finish them with their methods but still nothing proven, I stopped making the mugs just for this reason as the $50.00 I was making per mug along with the worry of liability issues and reasons just wasn't worth it for me, now saying that the epoxy I have used is this.

http://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-206-Slow-Cure-Epoxy/dp/B001NI8MNK/ref=sr_1_2/188-8309008-8255302?ie=UTF8&qid=1413636763&sr=8-2&keywords=bob+smith+epoxy

I believe the safest way to do it is to purchase the stainless inserts and make the mug so it can hold the insert.

Monte here on LJ's makes mugs might send him a message.


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## TravisH (Feb 6, 2013)

I have used shellac in the past and also just left them natural to stain, absorb, crack, etc… Sort of the like the coconut shell bowls I made for the kids years ago. They got about 4 to 5 years use out of them before they would no longer hold milk.


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## Micahm (Aug 28, 2013)

I have found this list of FDA approved epoxies. I don't not know how to tell much about each epoxy listed though. Here is the link if anyone wants to look at it and give some feedback about it. http://www.alfaadhesives.com/v2/productlist.php?series=FDA-Grade-Adhesives


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## Micahm (Aug 28, 2013)

I assume any on that list would be ok for food/drink contact. I just wonder which will hold up to the drinks and alcohol etc. Doesn't say the color either, I seen some epoxies that are amber in color but I would need clear.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

Even still FDA doesn't necessary mean it's safe for holding things for consuming, I'd call them first before I purchased it and let them know what it's intended for.


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## BinghamtonEd (Nov 30, 2011)

Micahm, if you haven't already, I suggest thoroughly reading the referenced FDA CFRs. It's not as clear-cut as them saying "Use this epoxy on whatever you're making and put whatever in the cup." There are guidelines for what applications a certain product may be used for (some state that they are safe for food contact during consumption, some state that the contact is limited only to a seam in the packaging material). Also, there are guidelines as far as how the epoxy is applied, temperature constraints, and what chemicals the epoxy/sealant is approved for contact with after it is cured.

P.S. You can attach a disclaimer to your mug, but in the end, you have no control over what people put in it. Whether you're liability is covered or not, if you're selling a wooden stein with a disclaimer that it is not suitable for holding alcohol, people are going to put alcohol in it.


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## ScubaSteve (Aug 17, 2013)

Winemakers use some combination of bee's wax and paraffin wax to seal the interior of their wooden tanks, in Europe many are over 100 years old.


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## Micahm (Aug 28, 2013)

UPDATE!:

I emailed a guy on Etsy that makes wooden mugs and he actually told me what he uses! Only maker to actually do that out of the ones I messaged. He uses Brewcoat by Sound Specialty Coatings. It is FDA rated and made for winery tank linings and water tank linings. It cures in 7 days approximately. Forms a hard surface, corrosion resistant and solvent free. AND GET THIS: on the manufacturers website it shows projects one being wooden wine bottles! The only downside is it is $210 dollars for 2 gallons, which would last a while and if you are making a lot of items to sell wouldn't be too bad I guess. Says storage for 24 months but don't see why if you had it a little longer it would hurt.


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## Micahm (Aug 28, 2013)

He also uses the CA glue from highland woodworking for the exterior finish


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## Micahm (Aug 28, 2013)

Also found some called Max CLR I may look more into.


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## kmcogar (Aug 10, 2017)

As mentioned before, MAX CLR seems to be a good option. The website below even has a picture of a wooden tankard. I am going to try this product for a wood mug soon.

https://theepoxyexperts.com/?product=max-clr-48-oz-epoxy-resin-food-safe-fda-compliant-clear-high-impact-coating


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## DavePolaschek (Oct 21, 2016)

Here's a link for MAX Clear on Amazon - I've used it on a butter dish and once cured it doesn't seem to impart any flavor to the butter. It's a 2-1 and you do need to make sure you have mixed it thoroughly. For steins, the only problem I can see is that it's runny enough that you'll have to do multiple thin coats to keep it from just all puddling in the bottom.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Thanks for the info on the Max Clr. May use it in the future.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Same question has come up on many message board as long as can remember with no definative answers. Like Blackie think stainless steel inserts the ticket.

One man suggested using closed grain wood without any other product inside. His idea is fill the cup or stein with water or beer allowing wood cell to swell tight. Might be okay using that method for your personal use, not sure commercially viable.

That two year shelf life once opened for Brewcoat might be suspect. Might be worth a try if could buy in pints or quarts.


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