# BLO/CA finish...what about walnut oil instead of BLO ?



## Abter (Sep 6, 2016)

This may already be in a post somewhere here or at IAP, but (IMHO) the search engines on both are weak.

I know some folks like to use a BLO and CA finish on pens, bottle stoppers and other small projects.
What about walnut oil (WO) with CA? I know WO is much slower drying than BLO; but does that make a difference? Is there some specific chemistry that works with CA + BLO, but not with WO + BLO.

While we are at it, what about Tung Oil with CA ?


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

If you use the "processed" walnut oil it will cure even faster than BLO and almost any top finish will work after it has cured for a couple of days. I have used it quite a bit on bowls then finished them with General's salad bowl finish. 
Mahoney's is a fast drying and good Walnut oil to use. For some reason it is about $4 more on Amazon than it is at the WoodCraft store; but you do get free shipping at AZ.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

I dont recommend walnut oil. I tried some Mahoney's and after a month it still wasnt dry. I put a couple of drops on a non- porous surface at the same time i doused a small wooden stick with it. Neither one dried. Not sure what to think when people say it dries in a day or a week.

You might try something like minwax natural stain - blo and some resins with driers added, no pigment. Similar to a non poly resin varnish. Will provide good chatoyance. Make sure it is dry before adding ca.


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

I'm curious to know more about OSU55's difficulty with walnut oil. I have used it on at least 50 different things including end grain cutting boards and it has always dried to the touch in a few hours. Possibly on a non absorbent surface it may take a long time to set up. I only apply it to unfinished wood.

Another method of finishing is with Casey Birchwood Tru-oil. It is sold as a gun stock finish but you can get a nice durable finish with 3 or 4 applications. I'm pretty sure it is a processed tung oil. It produces a great durable finish on gun stocks and if the finish is damaged it is easy to repair with sandpaper and more coats of finish. I don't know how it would stand up on pens that are exposed to much more to contaminants on the users hand than other items.


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

Most oils don't dry completely. you could even use 3-and-1 oil. Drying to the touch doesn't mean it's dried. This is a personal preference situation. If you you like the finish results, why not.


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## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

> Most oils don t dry completely. you could even use 3-and-1 oil. Drying to the touch doesn t mean it s dried. This is a personal preference situation. If you you like the finish results, why not.
> 
> - WoodenDreams


You are partially correct. Processed oils like walnut oil and treated Tung and Linseed oils do not dry they cure and bond with the wood. The processed ones are treated with heat and or the adding of "dryers" that accelerate the curing process. When they are not treated they can take a long time to cure or dry depending on conditions. Some woods also interfere with the curing process….eastern Cedar is one.
Mineral oil and 3 & 1 never dry but they will eventually soak up dirt and harden or evaporate. Some finish products also add poly or lacquer to produce a top finish.

I have several mechanical clocks and I clean and oil them every 3 or 4 years. The special clock oil I use there is made to stay fluid as long as possible but eventually even it solidifies or evaporates. They use to use Whale oil for this but not it is synthetic.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

There are several methods for using CA & BLO on a pen but this one pretty short & simple. BLO is being used as a lubricant.






My first attempt with BLO & CA was applying BLO then CA and that worked for me but not really not what everyone does. Atyer learning the procedure ran out of BLO and used mineral oil and that worked too!

Because didn't have oil dispensing bottle and tire of split oil decided to use plain CA as the fininish and like that better until became senstized to the stuff and stopped using CA as a finish.

Lot of people believe the myth BLO before top coat will pop the grain/figure in wood. Well any film finish by itself (CA, lacquer, poly, shellac, or varnish) will do it by itself!


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

> Lot of people believe the myth BLO before top coat will pop the grain/figure in wood. Well any film finish by itself (CA, lacquer, poly, shellac, or varnish) will do it by itself!
> 
> - Wildwood


Agree the named SOLVENT finishes create chatoyance, or "pop the grain", but be aware water based finishes do not.


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

> I m curious to know more about OSU55 s difficulty with walnut oil. I have used it on at least 50 different things including end grain cutting boards and it has always dried to the touch in a few hours. Possibly on a non absorbent surface it may take a long time to set up. I only apply it to unfinished wood.
> 
> Another method of finishing is with Casey Birchwood Tru-oil. It is sold as a gun stock finish but you can get a nice durable finish with 3 or 4 applications. I m pretty sure it is a processed tung oil. It produces a great durable finish on gun stocks and if the finish is damaged it is easy to repair with sandpaper and more coats of finish. I don t know how it would stand up on pens that are exposed to much more to contaminants on the users hand than other items.
> 
> - LesB


Your items may be dry to the touch, but the oil isnt dry. If the oil is going to actually cure it will do so on a non-porous surface. It doesnt require any chemical reaction from the wood to dry. After 30 days the oil is not dry or cured on the non-porous surface. The stick could be considered "dry", but I can see a trace of oil transfer to my skin from rubbing it.

Birchwood- Casey Tru-Oil is a linseed oil based varnish.


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## Wildwood (Jul 22, 2012)

Hate to disagree but Walnut oil is one of many drying oils if properly applied! Tung oil offers more protection if use enough coats! Drying times vary with temp & humidity and number of coats.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drying_oil

Like Mahoney' Walnut oil Dr's. walnut oil is big hit with many bowl & pen turners.

https://bowlmakerinc.com/finishes.html

http://doctorswoodshop.com/Store

Pure walnut oil will provide a matt or satin finish, addition of wax will provide little but more sheen. Dr's, sells a shellac & walnut oil which give more sheen. With all friction f


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## OSU55 (Dec 14, 2012)

> Hate to disagree but Walnut oil is one of many drying oils if properly applied! Tung oil offers more protection if use enough coats! Drying times vary with temp & humidity and number of coats.
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drying_oil
> 
> ...


Oh I read all the info at those sites. A drying oil will dry on a non-porous surface. After 30 days the Mahoney's isnt dry. Temp and humidity - inside my environmentally controlled house, temp 70 hum 40-45% 24/7. I will continue the test to see if it ever actually dries.


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## WoodenDreams (Aug 23, 2018)

Oil is still oil. It doesn't dry completely. sure over 10 years of evaporation. will still leave a spot. if you try, you'll leave a smear on a white cotton cloth. I do offer a BLO finish onto the Hope Chests I build per customer request. Same as the mineral oil I use on cutting boards. but I let the customer know of the continuous care still needed, for future protection. Everyone has a personal preference on the type of oils or finish they decide to use.


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## DGuy (Mar 11, 2021)

Previously I tried CA alone and I hated it. Tonight I tried Walnut oil and CA + Activator it worked great. I did sand with 800 grit in-between most coats. I seamed to have about 7-10 second of working time. What surprised me was the paper towel was hard within 30 seconds.


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