# Baileys? Stanley? Bed Rock?



## corpmule (Jun 9, 2012)

What is the significance of the "Bailey" as opposed to the regular "Stanley" planes? Or even the Bed Rock models? Are there major differences?

I'm primarily interested in the significance of the "Bailey" line as I'm looking at a used one being sold locally.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

The answers to each of your questions are here:

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm

Go to the pages w/ 602 - 608 planes, within Blood and Gore, to read about Bedrocks.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

Yes please!
Beware, though, not everyone agrees with Patrick about the Bedrock design. I'm not sure it warrants the premium price, but there's a reason why Lie Nielsen et. al. copied them to a "t". I like the round walled bedrocks and at least subjectively like the frog design. It'll probably be lost on you if you don't move your frog often. All of us plane guys have a ton of Baileys and a handful of Bedrocks. If it's an early Bailey without any damage, you probably want it.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

If you get a Bedrock, the odds are overwhelming that you'll have a plane with excellent bones and good potential:









If you get a Bailey, the odds are very good that you'll have a plane with excellent bones and good potential…some are better than others:









If you get a plain "Stanley", the odds are good that you've got an economy plane with plastic handles, fewer adjustments, less precision, etc., that will be much harder to tune into becoming good working plane.


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## Smitty_Cabinetshop (Mar 26, 2011)

knotscott - very nice answer indeed!

And I love that t13 SW in particular. Although the blue one is nice, too. ;-)


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

What they said. ^

Bedrock was sold as Stanley's premium line, Bailey a notch below, . I like to think of them in comparison to GM cars. Bedrocks are the Cadillac, while Bailey is the Buick. There are also lower rungs on the Stanley brand ladder such as Defiance and Handyman. At that point, you are back to knotscott's explanation.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

That 5-1/4 T-13 is one of my faves…. a "Sweetheart" for sure!


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

yep, what everybody else said. But beware, they are like potato chips and beer. You can't have just one!!


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

I have to agree with Patrick….the Bedrock line is great for collectors because not many were made compared to the numbers of Bailey types but a better plane….not so much. A case of sizzle when you need steak.

A plane is a devise for holding a cutting iron, all else being equal what make a superior plane is how well it holds and fixes the iron to the plane's body. The interface of the iron and frog of Bedrocks and Baileys up to type 15 are the same but the method of attachment of the frog to the receiver is, I believe, superior on the Bailey planes to that of the Bedrocks. The pin/receiver of the Bedrock is a weaker method of attachment than the Bailey screws and is easily damaged if over tightened. While the Bedrock frog and receiver have more surface area than Baileys', in practice there is no real advantage over pre-type 16 Baileys'. Ease of mouth adjustment is a "who cares", just another example of marketing sizzle, some of my favorite Baileys' are type 9s which are before the introduction of the frog adjustment screw. As always YMMV.


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## lysdexic (Mar 21, 2011)

"they are like potato chips and beer. You can't have just one!!"

You know, I've never had a problem eating just one potato chip.:^)


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## corpmule (Jun 9, 2012)

Bertha said, "...If it's an early Bailey without any damage, you probably want it.  "

Well, I did indeed want it.  But wheather it meets that criteria or not is something I'm really not qualified to answer. I have determined, via this web site, http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/typing/typing.htm , that it's a type 9. At least as far as I can tell.

I'm hoping someone on this site can give me a clue as to it's value. As you can see in the pictures below, it's looks pretty clean. It has a nice patina on it so, I don't think it needs a lot of clean up and, therein lies my question. Should I do any clean up on it and if so, how much and, how? Electolysis? Wire brush? If it's not worth a whole lot, if it's a "good user", maybe I should. *shrug*


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## JayT (May 6, 2012)

From the photos, it looks like someone painted it black at some point (the sides should be bare cast iron, not black and the finish on the rest looks like paint, not the original japanning) If so, you aren't going to hurt the value by cleaning it up properly and turning it into a user. Along the way, you will probably learn quite a bit about your new tool.

If you need some help getting started, Don W's webpage is a good resource.

Good luck.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Your pretty close on a type 9, and I agree with JayT, its looks like a pretty bad paint job. If they painted right over some rust, you'd be best to strip it. They may have also just coated the whole thing with shellac. The knob and tote are either shellac or some type of clear coat.

As for value, its probably worth $25 - $40 ($40 on the high side) in its current state.

It will most definitely make a great user.


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## corpmule (Jun 9, 2012)

Don W said, "As for value, its probably worth $25 - $40 ($40 on the high side) in its current state."

Well, I guess I paid about $10 too much, dang it! 

And, I didn't notice the edges of the base (body) of the plane weren't bare metal.

Oh well, live and learn.

In that case, I'd like to remove the paint. Will the electrolysis remove the paint? Never mind, I'll read Don W's page now.


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

electrolysis not remove the paint (well maybe in your case. It will only remove paint with rust under it)

I'd make a list of all the planes I've overpaid for, but I just don't have that much time 

I'd also tell you what I paid for my last #6, but don't want you to hate me.


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## corpmule (Jun 9, 2012)

laffs! BTW, Don W, Thanks for writing that blog on cleaning (restoring) the planes. I've learned a lot from it already.


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## BubbaIBA (Nov 23, 2011)

Interesting plane to date. There is no plane size cast in toe behind knob, that would date it as a type 1 through 8. It has a small adjustment knob which dates up to type 11. Then there is the high knob, type 12 and on and best I can tell no raised knob ring which is up through type 13. No frog adjustment screw pre type 10. To be sure I would need a photo of the frog receiver but my best guess it is partially a Frankenplane type 8. The major problem with that dating are the Patent dates. Stanley was known to throw a curve or two, this plane may be one.


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## stonedlion (Jan 12, 2011)

I agree with Don. I would not hesitate to strip the paint and give it an electrolysis bath and turn it into a good user.


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## ksSlim (Jun 27, 2010)

Strip it, restore it, and tune it, but beware, soon as you make shavings you're on the slippery slope.
We should be starting PAA on another forum soon. Drop by handplane of your dreams forum.


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## corpmule (Jun 9, 2012)

What's the best way to "strip it"?


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## donwilwol (May 16, 2011)

Sand blaster. If you don't have a sand blaster, use any good paint stripper.


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## Bertha (Jan 10, 2011)

I think it's a nice looking plane, the vintage I prefer. I think she's going to be a great user.


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