# Help!! Old Craftsman Scroll Saw



## dj1096

Not sure I am posting in the right spot since I just joined, but here goes.










Older cast iron craftsman scroll saw. Has a rolling stand with it. Works fine.

I recently saw this ad on Criaigslist for $50. It will cost me another $40 to go get it in gas.

Now here is the thing. I have spent my life in wood working. I was a foreman on high-end houses, made it into galleries with wood turnings and sculptures, but I have not ran a scroll saw since Jr. High and I am a bit dumb about them. To me it seems like a good deal. I have contacted the owner and was told it currently has a 5" pin-less blade, but can also take one with pins. He has only used it a few times. I am not sure if it is a variable or not, but I assume I could ad a variable switch to it. I know it is old but I have always liked older machines in a shop.

My use for one is yet undecided. My last job before I became disabled was managing a hardwood store and liked the intarsia I wood see customers do. I am also doing some knife making and can see using a scroll saw on the handles. Truthfully I just do not know. My disability makes me nervous running a Lathe like I did. (I tend to get carried away with rustic woods and thin walls!) So I am trying to find new ways to express my art and I have to stay with wood…it is in my blood.

So what do you think? Good deal? Or should I just keep looking for a newer one….or stay to what I know??

Any advice would be welcomed.


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## BigJerryWayne

I don't know anything about that saw, but the motor alone should be worth the money and gas.


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## greasemonkeyredneck

Ninety bucks total isn't bad for the saw if you just like having antique tools like me. I have one similar to this one sitting in my shop. I restored it and it is usable, but it is more of a conversation piece than anything else.
These were great saws back in the day, but when compared to the accuracy of modern saws, they don't have much use these days for actual work. I've been known to crank up on of my antique saws to rough cut some pieces just for the novelty of it. If I need to cut something with accuracy though for something like an intarsia piece like you mentioned, I'll use one of my modern saws.

This saw was made by one of several companies that made them way back when. Most of them you find today are Sears and Roebuck saws. The tension mechanism is a spring operated plunger type. 
The table angle is finicky to set. So it is best to get it square and leave it there. 
Use course cutting blades in it. The tension is not great enough to make use of finer blades. This is not a flaw in them. Back when they were produced, most people were not doing the detailed work with scroll saws that a lot of people enjoy doing today. 
The up and down motion of the blade is accomplished with an oil lubricated gear box with one of several different style offset shaft and attachment systems. It's hard to describe without having good closeup photos on hand to show. Compared to the modern sleeve bearing linkage type systems of today though, the drive systems on these old antique saws are virtualy indestructible. 
I am sure the saw works fine. I've never seen one that didn't. The worst case scenerio I've seen on these saws is for them to be so covered in rust that they aren't worth cleaning. That does not seem to be the case here.
The easiest way to get variable speed on these saws is to find and install stepped pulleys. It's usually pretty easy to find ones with four sized pulleys ganged together. Installing one of these on the motor or the drive assembly gives you four different speeds. Installing the same setup on both the motor and gear assembly give you an even wider range of speeds.


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## kepy

William is correct in his comments. You will find that this type saw is very hard on blades. Pulling against the spring seems to create a strain that causes the blades to break, especially if you are using finer blades.


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## dj1096

Thank you very much. I think I will pass on this one. If I was still actively working I think I would love it in my shop to use for rough cuts, but after listening to the pros I think I will wait for another deal. Any suggestions on a mid grade saw? I have limited funds but very high expectations! LOL Seriously I'm just looking for a decent tool to learn on without taking out a loan. I do love the older machines but understand that what we want out of most of them today, the older ones just were not built for.


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## greasemonkeyredneck

I use a Delta SS250.
It is considered a beginner saw, but has always stood up to anything I've thrown at it.
The problem is, I haven't seen them sold in a while.
You can still find them from time to time on Ebay and such.
I've seen them go for as little as $50.
I bought mine on clearance at a local hardware store for $59.


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## greasemonkeyredneck

I forgot.
There are a couple of modifications to be made on the Delta SS250.
Nothing major.
Things like changing the plastic nut on the Quickclamp II system for a sturdier metal wing nut.
If you happen to find one and buy it, let me know and I could help you get it set up.
I have this thread on my watch list.
So you could post any questions here.


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## StayinBroke

I'm currently using a porter cable and have had good luck with it after over a year, but it does have its flaws. It is, after all a low end saw, but better than others I've used. For a good mid grade saw, take a look at Excalibur. Cast iron table, variable speed, front tensioning, speed controls and on off switch, and with parallel link arms. The feature I am most drawn to is that instead of a tilting table, it has a tilting head. The upper and lower arms swivel on an axis while the table remains flat. That means no craning your neck off to the side while trying to do a bevel cut at 45 degrees.


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## greasemonkeyredneck

I have just got to ask. I can't help myself.
The Excaliber, for me with shipping, runs around a thousand dollars for the lowest priced one.
If that is mid grade, since I always considered the Excaliber top of the line compared to my feeblw budget, what is the best of the best?
My dream saw, if money was no object, is an Excaliber with a thirty inch throat. I've learned to cut extremely large pieces on my sixteen inch using spirals. I've even cut a five foot long last supper portrait. It just thrills me thinking what I could do with a thrity inch throat, ability to thread blades from top or bottom, and tilting head.


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## dj1096

I kind of would like to get an older scroll saw, but as mentioned, some do not do what we need today. Any thoughts of one that might work?

Again I found another vintage saw from the late 40's a Dunlap saw 103.2179. I wonder, if it could not adjust tight enough for fine blades then could one replace the spring for one with more resistance?

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/869.pdf

The spring 30617 in this break down would not be to hard to replace wood it?


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## greasemonkeyredneck

The spring would not be hard to replace at all. If you have basic mechanical knowledge, it is simple.
However, it still would not handle what a modern saw would. That is why these saws are no longer made with the plunger type systems. They just would tension the blade tight enough for detail work.
All that being said, that doesn't necessarily make the saw useless. They are great for larger, less detailed work. As a matter of fact, if I need to cut stock over about an inch, as long as it isn't extremely detailed, I do sometimes go for the antique saws, because they cut thicker stock better. They just aren't well suited for detail work.


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## SYPUCK

That is an oldie for sure. I guess if you have the space for it it is o.k. but you can buy a new one for about $100.00
or even look on craigslist for a newer one.


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## Dakkar

Variable speed control is pretty important with a scroll saw, as is an air blower and other features. I love old tools, myself, but with some types of tools, newer is better. That's the case with scroll saws.


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## dj1096

Well I guess I am hard headed!! I know a new saw would perhaps do finer work but I have decided at least for now to go a totally route.

Every year in our small little Oklahoma town they have a parade and booths for "Pioneer Day" marking the sooner run and the town's founding. This year I signed up to do a charity drive for Multiple Sclerosis and plan to have a booth and demo woodworking as it would of been done in the 1800s. So I found a set of plans from The Woodwright's Shop for a scroll saw that mounts to my treadle lathe.

I know I will get a new one later but I think this will be a fun way to begin. I have always loved the more primitive wood tools!!


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## Dakkar

Well, that's a fun idea. Please post some picks if you build it. There are some advantages to self-powered tools, of course, most particularly constant speed regulation. Saws like that can actually be preferable to motorized scroll saws for things like delicate inlays, marquetry and such.


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## woodworkerforchrist

I love scrollsawing but i have a couple newer ones. But that looks like an antique.. id keep it!


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## craftsman on the lake

A neighbor gave me one a couple of years ago. It does not cut like the newer ones. Even the cheaper newer ones. I had a $145 hitachi after the craftsman gave up the ghost and now a dewalt. The big yellow one you see a lot.

The craftsman one was at best a novelty to try cutting. The mechanism is piston and spring. Not anything like the newer ones. I called it "thumper" as it vibrated a lot. you had to hold the wood really tight or it bounced off the bed. If you put a chip of wood on the table it will bounce a few times and end up on the floor. This one is an antique for sure. But this time the technology has far surpassed what it is capable of.

I'd say, put your $50 into another saw. Any one actually will work better than this one.

Oh, there's oil in it. The mechanism takes a bunch of oil just like a car differential. Old technology.


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## oldwormy

I bought one of these Sears saws when I was 15 yrs old (60 years ago) and it is now sitting idle in my shop. I remember making siimple cut-outs with it, nothing fancy since it uses pin type blades. I replaced some parts when needed but it still runs if I would connect it to a motor. Quite a conversation piece with many memories. All my work is now done on a DW788 type 1.


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## B0b

I bought one last summer for $35 with a whole bunch of nice boards thrown in. I will not likely use it often, but sometimes it is nice to have. For some reason, the piston jerks to the left about 1/32" at the top of its stroke. If anyone knows how to fix this, I'd be thrilled because it is too sloppy for some jobs. I'm debating taking it apart to see if I can figure it out, but my wife may kill me due to other priorities.

I've heard a lot of people say these saws are silky smooth, so I know it should be possible. My cuts are beautiful on one side of the blade, but horrendous on the other side, so I feel like if I can eliminate the side movement, I'd be perfectly happy.


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## greasemonkeyredneck

I'm not sure what could cause the condition you describe. The plunger mechanism isn't that complcated at all though. I would definately take it apart and see what you may find. It could be something very simple causing the issue in question.


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## Woodmaster1

I have one and it only takes wide thick blades. It works great for simple cuts. I paid 50.00 ten years ago for it. The saw still has its original motor from the late thirties.


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## dj1096

To be honest, while I will be building a wood scroll saw to attach to the Treadle lathe, I would still love to get one of these old ones. I am just into woodwork for fun and while I often make gallery wood turnings and knives, the scrollsaw would just be for fun and I LOVE old tools. Often I get them non running and then rebuild just for the satisfaction

Anyone in the Tulsa to Oklahoma area that has one they would let go, and knows it is not worth its weight in gold I would love to talk. I have been surprised what people think tools are worth if they are old.

Example:

I have drove by a table top Band Saw for 9 years sitting in front of of rough looking Mobile home. It has been uncovered this whole time on top of a mound of rubble. (no worries of rust, it has about 10 coats of paint on it!) I stopped and asked what was is brand, do they have the motor, and if they would sell. No motor, no clue of the brand ( I suspect mid 50-60s Delta or Sears) we cannot get the doors open for a good look inside either but they have been wanting to sell it. They have had many offers but no one has been willing to pay what they need. He paid $275 for it just as it is, except the last coat of black spray paint, and will not settle less than $150. Well at least it is near the highway so I can enjoy its nice lines when I drive by!!


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## wapakfred

If you were to check out some of the older scrollers over at OWWM and what those guys do with them, you wouldn't feel shortchanged. I've had a couple: one like that first one you pic'd, and a larger 24" throat Craftsman. They are a lot of fun to restore, but I find I'm not much of a scroller so they both got sold.


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## dj1096

Yeah, I should've bought that one but had not been seriously thinking of buy a scroll saw. That one just popped up and got me thinking. Now I find I am quite obsessed with getting one and it has become a need I do not know if I can live without!!


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