# Workbench Build



## Sonicschnooze (Mar 14, 2021)

I'm in the process of making a work bench. I need to attach 3×3 legs to a laminated 2 1/2" top. All the wisdom I've read on the subject says I should have a tenon that's 1"x2"x5", if I'm not completely off. That would put the height of the tenon 2.5in above my table top…. Do I have to create a double tenon? Or would one tenon 2"x1"x2" be sufficient? I want a hidden tenon.

If it helps: the dimensions of the bench will be 6' long x 24" wide by 36" high.


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## RichT (Oct 14, 2016)

Well, generally you attach legs to aprons to create a frame, and then attach the top to the frame. The aprons help support the top between the legs.

You won't be tenoning the top of the legs into the table top.

Search around for workbench and click on the images link and you'll get the picture.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

I've been doing quite a bit of studying on work benches. I'm leaning towards the David Barron- Matt Estela type of tenons. They seem to be the strongest and most stable. I'm pretty certain I'll be make the bench out of red beech with a 5" thick top. I'm still trying to decide on the width and a center tool well. I'm pretty sure it's going to be 6 1/2' to 7' in length.

Those legs and tenons, Yeah their going to be critical for stability. That's the reason I'm serious about the David Barron/Matt Estela tenons. That is if I chose the Roubo over a Shaker style.


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

How to attach the top depends of the workbench design.
a sketch of what you intend to build would help.

On a Paul Sellers workbench, the top is glued to the front apron and screwed from under to the two leg-frames.
On a Moravian workbench, the top is kept in place by 4 dowels.
I think it is the same on Scandinavian workbenches.
On a Roubo workbench, the legs are tenoned through a thick top but the undercarriage has no (long) upper rails.
On workbenches with an undercarriage with long low and upper rails, through tenons are not needed. I would say 1"1/2 high tenon should be adequate.


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## CL810 (Mar 21, 2010)

Through tenons are not required but I believe draw bored tenons would serve you well along with bottom stretchers.

If you haven't already looked at the Work Bench Smackdown thread you will see that there are a lot of ways to build a bench.


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## Sonicschnooze (Mar 14, 2021)

I'm looking at something akin to the Scandinavian workbench attached below. Though with wheels that collapse, a vise that spans the entire end and a shelf that's slightly more drawn in.

https://www.woodweb.com/galleries/project/images/4395/Finished_workbench.jpg


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## Sonicschnooze (Mar 14, 2021)

Also, Matt Estlea is brilliant. A 5" top is pretty thick. You'll never have to worry about movement, that thing will be a rock!

I do not want to glue and screw the top like Paul Sellers would. That just seems like it would fall apart eventually with repeated stress.

I'm looking at bottom stretchers and a top stretcher in the rear and on the sides to preserve clamping space in the front. I'll check out that thread. Thanks all!


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## SMP (Aug 29, 2018)

I built my english bench off of Richard Maguire's videos. But he also has a French bench series. His videos and instructions ar far and away better than anyone elses IMO and you probably won't find anyone more knowledgeable about benches.


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## Hammerthumb (Dec 28, 2012)

All you need is leg tenons mortised into the top, held down by gravity. I have made many benches this way. Please read the narrative of the posting below. Not saying this is the only way to do it, but having the top removable makes the bench more movable as well as not having to worry about wood movement putting stress on the bench. It works for me.
https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/150826


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## Sylvain (Jul 23, 2011)

when speaking about "Scandinavian workbench", I have something like this in mind:
https://www.felder-group.com/WEB/Press/Popular%20Woodworking_05_20_Scandinavian%20Workbench.pdf

In this example, two "filler block" are screwed to the top from underside with provision for wood movement.
the trestle are then screwed to the filler blocks with lag bolts. In this design, there is no effort induced by the vise in the base; every effort is contained in the top. So there is no need for tenons between the base and the top.

If one uses a leg vise on a more or less Roubo style workbench, clamping a piece will tend to push the workbench top away. Two solutions: 
- the double tenon as shown by Chris Schwarz; then in fact the effort remains contained in the front leg;
- a tenon heavy enough to resist to the pressure (at least at the leg where the leg vise is).

If one uses a metal vise, the effort is contained in the vise mechanism and no clamping effort is transmitted to the bench.

On the Moravian workbench with a vertical leg vise, the backer piece (which support the vise nut) is tenoned to the top to transmit the clamping effort to the top.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Tenon, double tenon, dovetail - oy ve! I know, I know, Roubo did it like that 300 years ago - so what? Who besides Mr. Roubo Schwarz says you have to tenon the legs? I had to laugh in the video Schwarz is sweating away sawing out tenons in a 5×5 all the while there's a bandsaw in the back round. But this is his shtick that's become chique amongst the neanderthalers.

To be serious, my question is why would anyone tenon the legs? I don't get it. Tenons would be the LAST choice for me.

SS, why not make your life easier and build a trestle? If you ever decide to move the bench the top can be removed. It will be just as sturdy if not more.

TMK a Scandinavian bench by definition has a shoulder vise, doesn't it? Wheels only if absolutely necessary & +1 on retractable.


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## Kudzupatch (Feb 3, 2015)

If you top is heavy enough you don't have to 'attach it' to the base. I put large dowels in the four corner posts. I sat my bench top on these, marked the locations. Then flipped the top, drilled oversized holes and the flipped it back over. Just letting the top rest on base with the dowels keeping it from sliding off. It has worked perfect for years.


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## gerrym526 (Dec 22, 2007)

You mention a 2 1/2" laminated top. My question would be-"how heavy is the top"?

When I built my workbench years ago, I 8/4 hard maple-the top dimensions were about the same as yours. The top weighed about 90 lbs. I drilled holes in the top of the legs and bottom of the bench to accept a 3/4" hardwood dowel. I then glued the dowels into the holes in the legs at the op.
Then dropped the table top onto the legs-it's been stable for 20yrs.
Not sure how your leg assembly is designed-mine had stretchers at the top, and near the bottom of each pair of legs.
If you're attaching the legs without lateral support, my method my still work-just glue the dowel to the top and bottom. Or, simply go with one tenon per leg, and shorten the height of the tenon to go about 1 1/2" into the table top.
Gerry
Gerry


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