# Makita 2030N restore



## mantwi (Mar 17, 2013)

A few months back I picked up a Makita 2030N combination planer/jointer and I'm finally getting around to refurbishing it. The machine is in good condition overall but being 30 plus years old has some issues that I need to correct. The first thing I found was that the knives were as dull as marbles and the previous owner had them set way too low. After removing, cleaning and sharpening the knives I re-installed them at the proper height. There is a thin hold down that has two springs that keep the knives snug enough to set them without tightening the gibs too much, very helpful device. I also like the way the knives are made with a mild steel back and the tool steel cutting edge inset to it. The soft back makes honing easier. 
The second issue is not so easily resolved. The urethane feed rollers are glazed and as head as plastic, no grip whatsoever. To compound the problem they are also so worn that by the time you get them to make good contact with the workpiece the chipbreaker is pinning it to the bed like Hulk Hogan. As you can imagine it will not feed more than a few inches before the board stops. Now I must say if I push the board through the sharpened knives this planer produces the finest surface I have seen straight from the knives of any planer. Very Nice. I'm really needing to get those feed rollers recovered and that's where the problem comes in. I can't figure out how to remove the drive sprocket from the feed roller assembly. It has a retaining ring, I took that off but the sprocket will not budge. Having learned the foolishness of getting all gorilla with things I don't really understand and trashing them in the process I am turning you my fellow Lumberjocks. Any information on this procedure (which Makita left completely out of the manual) would be greatly appreciated.
As time goes on I will post links where you can view the progress just don't look for pretty. I don't want it to look like new, I want it to work like new. After all the work it produces is the real measure of a machines worth and being a little long in tooth myself I kinda like 'em looking broke in. Look forward to hearing from you all and thanks in advance. Tony Wilson


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Based on the parts diagram, it looks basically the same as my 2030.. After you take off the retaining clip, the gear should pull straight off along with the woodruff key. If it won't come off with a gentle pry from behind with a large flat blade screwdriver, you might need to get a puller.

As for recovering the rollers.. I highly recommend Western Roller.

Cheers,
Brad


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## Sarit (Oct 21, 2009)

I have a 2040 that I disassembled a while back.
From what I remember once you remove the e-clip you should be able to pull the sprocket off. Is it a keyed shaft? If it is, it should pull straight off. You may need to use a gear puller.

This is the only pic I have of the roller & sprocket










http://lumberjocks.com/Sarit/blog/22275


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## mantwi (Mar 17, 2013)

Brad: That's what I thought but I wanted to make sure before i start prying on this thing. I stopped at a local pawn shop and picked up a nice pair of gear pullers (large and a small) for next to nothing and will get after it tomorrow. Thanks for the reply.


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## mantwi (Mar 17, 2013)

Sarit: It does have a small key and as you and Brad recommended I have picked up a gear puller for the job.
Your rollers make mine look like new. Actually they may be, whereas all the pictures I've seen show yellow rollers and they are described as soft mine are white and slick and hard, really hard like UHMW plastic. I'm beginning to think the previous owner had them recovered by someone who wasn't familiar with planer rollers. Appreciate the input. I'll get some pics up soon as I figure out how this crazy thing works. (computer that is)


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

The rollers on these machines are the only negative I've been able to determine, with pretty much everyone needing to get them recovered at one point or another. On the first 2030 I purchased, the rubber had completely disintegrated and all that was left was the steel shafts:










A second 2030 I obtained had what I believe are the original rollers, and they were in surprisingly outstanding shape. Here is a picture of the original (black rubber) rollers, along side the pair of rollers that I had recovered (yellow):










I have the recovered ones in my working machine currently, and they have performed flawlessly so far.

Cheers,
Brad


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## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

if you are still fighting it you may need a little heat. I mean a little, like a heat gun or halogen light. It will let the plastic expand enough it will slid right off. When I am putting on snug bearings I freeze the shaft (over night)and gently warm up the race of the bearing. Usually with a light. when every thing is ready they just slide right in.


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## mantwi (Mar 17, 2013)

Brad. I'm assuming the yellow ones are urethane rubber and are soft. Like I said the white ones on my feed rollers are hard and slick. I'll look for a local outfit that knows the proper diameter and if I can't find one Western Rollers here I came. Thanks again.


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## mantwi (Mar 17, 2013)

Shawn Masterson. I was wondering if freezing would be beneficial. Looks like it will. I'll try your trick on the arbor bearings for an ancient Grizzly G1023 I'm also restoring as well as the feed roller sprockets on the planer. Now if I can just find the right start capacitor for the 3 HP motor on that table saw I'll be on my way. I can't thank you all enough for the input, I love working on old cast iron but researching it can be difficult. Fortunately what the manufacturers neglect to tell the experience of others can supply. Thanks and God bless.


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## shawnmasterson (Jan 24, 2013)

just go to eBay for the capacitor. those are universal just match the MF rating and the shape. I would make sure it is ok to freeze the new roller material.


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## mantwi (Mar 17, 2013)

I just got the feed rollers back from Western Roller and installed them, they work great. The people at Western Roller are very helpful, it did take almost a month to get them back but it was well worth the wait. This old Makita
2030N is an awesome little machine. I"ll post some photos of it when my son shows me how.
To Shawn Masterson, I bought a couple of bearing pullers at a pawn shop and it was a breeze to replace the bearings and the capacitor wasn't the problem. Upon closer examination I saw that the previous owner of the G1023 had used 14/2 cord for an extension, 50' of it!! No wonder the saw wouldn't run. I replaced it with 8' of 10/3.


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## DoctorBill (Jul 25, 2014)

I just got finished putting a new set of feed rollers in the 2030N I inherited from my father. The dark red plastic on the old ones had started coming off in large chunks. I didn't know you could have them recovered so it looks like I will have a back-up set. By the way, the new set for mine came from eReplacementparts.com and though they were nearly two bills each they were a perfect fit. The replacement took about two hours and the only hitch was that I needed to get my son to help hold up one end of the new rollers while I got the brackets screwed in on the other end.

Yep, I also wound up replacing all those darn Phillips head screws with cap screws. I did manage to get them out without an impact wrench but just barely.

Doctor Bill


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## kenpike (Nov 2, 2014)

Just bought a 2030 with both feed rollers completely disintegrated & nothing left but the shafts. I would like someone to measure the dia. of their new rollers for me. This is the 2nd one of these I have bought with the same problem. I rebuilt the 1st set of rollers using the cheapest hockey pucks I could buy. Pucks were centernbored to snugly fit the shaft, glued to the shaft & stacked to each other with PL Premium construction adhesive. Froze them in the deep freeze then had a buddy turn them down in his metal lathe to the correct OD (which I wrote down & have since lost). They worked awesome. So if someone could measure their rollers for me I will attempt the same repair again. Thanks.


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## wimpy (Jan 8, 2015)

Had roller problems with my Makita 2030 like the rest of you guys. So I followed Kenpike's idea. 
I went to Walmart and bought 24 hockey pucks . and a tube of PL construction adhesive.
I have a metal lathe so no problem to remove old rubber from rollers , then centre bored pucks
and glued on to steel shaft .then turned them down to 2" in Diameter. Put them back in planer and 
tried iout. It works great, now for some extra advise . I tried putting springs back in with it sitting in normal
position, with nothing but problems. so got some help and laid it on its side, then it was very easy to put springs and rollers back in.
Don't know how long the pucks will last, but will find out. Don't know if it would be worth the while if you have to take rollers to a machine shop and pay hourly rate. But fine if you have a lathe or know a friend that has one.
Anyway thanks to Kenpike


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## LarryTD (Feb 2, 2015)

I have a makita 2030 I purchased well used a little while ago. it works great but it is missing the entire assembly for adjusting the height of the planer except the main threaded shaft. I can buy most replacement parts but I cant get the shaft support part number 311410-9, and the handle shaft part number 325535-3. Does anybody know where I can get these? Maybe someone has one of these machines for parts?


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## HiloBob (May 22, 2016)

I too bought an old 2030N but with no instruction manual. The knives on the planet need to be sharpened, but I have no idea how to reset the proper height. There's a lot of room for adjustment, so there must be a proper way. Any suggestions?


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## waho6o9 (May 6, 2011)

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/98366/Makita-2030n.html


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

Easiest planer to change knives on in the world… you just need two hardwood blocks. Read the manual.

Cheers,
Brad


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## xxyy1988 (Jan 10, 2015)

Couldn't find many post on restoring this machine. I would need some help on restoring my own 2030N. I have a bad sparks on the motor part and am trying to get it out and see what 's wrong with it. But I don't know how to get the main shaft pulley off . It is a threaded pulley on a threaded rod with another nut on top . I turned out take the nut off ( but damaged the teeth on the Lully by a plier ) but the pulley then will always turn With the threaded shaft . What tool should I use .


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## xxyy1988 (Jan 10, 2015)




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## irish620 (Jan 30, 2012)

Speciality tool for sure, maybe a pair of Retaining Ring Pliers ? Then lock the shaft in place somehow ? 
Did you figure it out and if so how did you do it ?


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## ProAudio (Jan 23, 2017)

I am considering the purchase of an old 2030n Makita. 
The seller tells me that the on/off switch is broken and non replaceable.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram of this unit? 
With a past price of $162.00 I can't believe this to be a "simple switch"

I have the user manual etc but have noit been able to secure a wiring diagram of the bloody thing.

This could either be the deal of the day or one very heavy boat anchor. I would press o with the transaction of I understood how it is wires.
Thanks
Pro Audio 
WI


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

If it's anything like the 2030, it's just a DPST push button switch, and could easily be replaced with a toggle type (which I've seen several people do).










Cheers,
Brad


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## ShanghaiPete (Apr 14, 2017)

I just bought a 2030N that also needs a switch replacement, any tips or tricks on replacing this part? Which replacement switch did you choose, wiring diagram to share? Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Trent


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> wiring diagram to share?


It's about as simple as it gets 










Any DPST switch that can handle the current should work…

Cheers,
Brad


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## ShanghaiPete (Apr 14, 2017)

Thanks! I have what looks like 3 hot wires and 2 neutral coming from the motor. I'm not an electrician, but was guessing this is because of the multiple speeds but wasn't sure. I also noticed there are two different switch mechanisms listed for the 2030N, the part number listed on ereplacements and the other parts sites is a simple switch, while the exploded parts diagram in the user guide for mine is different. Maybe mine is older?


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## ShanghaiPete (Apr 14, 2017)

I found answer, looks like there was a change in wiring at some point from 5 to 3 wires. Hopefully this helps someone else with the same issue.


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## pontic (Sep 25, 2016)

I got a 2030N for sale if any one is interested. New rollers and two sets of blades for both the planer and jointer.
Works great.


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## Somedude (Apr 20, 2017)

> I got a 2030N for sale if any one is interested. New rollers and two sets of blades for both the planer and jointer.
> Works great.
> 
> - pontic


Hi Pontic,
Do you still have this one available?

Thanks,


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## pontic (Sep 25, 2016)

Yes I do. PM me If you are interested.


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## ShanghaiPete (Apr 14, 2017)

xxyy1988 or anyone else, how did you end up getting the pulley off the shaft? Is there a trick to getting the poly v-belt off without damaging the pulley? I noticed the 2030 says to loosen the motor bolts to loosen the tension on the belt, but that's not an option on the 2030N.

I need to change the belt and clean up the commutator as I also am seeing a lot of sparks.


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## Somedude (Apr 20, 2017)

> Yes I do. PM me If you are interested.
> 
> - pontic


Hi Pontic,
Since I am new to the group I cannot send PMs yet. I need 5 posts (this is my 2nd).
I am hoping you can PM me.

Thanks,


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## 865 (Sep 6, 2016)

If you have not seen this video, you should have a look before working on any planer. It's an old video, but he explains the components and concepts really well.


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## MrUnix (May 18, 2012)

> If you have not seen this video, you should have a look before working on any planer. It s an old video, but he explains the components and concepts really well.
> - 865


Just a note regarding that video - it doesn't apply to the Makita (or the similar Hitachi F1000A either AFAIK). To set the knives on the Makita, for both the jointer and planer knives, all you need is two blocks of wood. It is about the easiest machine on the planet to set knives on, except perhaps those machines that use the double sided disposable indexed things that are not meant to be sharpened.

Cheers,
Brad


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