# Shop Notes



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*How do you manage your shop?*

Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.

I wondered what methods of organization might be more efficient. So I am asking for my fellow lumberJocks to share their sage like wisdom.

Thanks

Tom.


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## Bigrock (Apr 16, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


Hi Doc:
A few years ago maybe 6 or 7 I got tired of tools and stuff laying everywhere. I made my mind that had to stop and I started putting tools away and doing what I call light sweeping at the end of each day. Now I don't have to look for tools and don't to worry about the clutter on the floor or benches. Thank goodness all my hand tools have a home in a drawer and if its not there I go find it. For me it saves me a lot of time not having to look for tools.


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## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


Hi Tom, like Bigrock, I don't consider myself the tidiest of people, except when it comes to my workshop, I have a place for everything, and can go straight to any tool, at the end of each working session I clean up, mainly because I don't know when I will be back. This is even more important at the moment, whilst working in the micro-workshop, but I have always done the same, it makes life a lot easier, and by doing it at the end of each session, it only takes 5-10 minutes as opposed to wasting part of a day just cleaning.


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


Hi Tom
I guess it depends what you are organizing . Mostly organizing is making it so your shop has an effiecant layout making it easy to work, but still use the left over space to store the tools and material making it as easy as possible to get to the things you use the most . It takes time and a few times of reorganising to get it were it works best for you.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


I seldom "clean"... mostly I rearrange the clutter!


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


several things though simple are a big time saver and it keeps your shop clean, build a cabint that your tools go into and outline there shape so they go back in the exact same spot, and dont have , yes im going to say it, dont have too many tools, that in itself is just asking for trouble, clutter, and make your tool area so that dust cant and wont pile up..its very simple, just stay organized…and the day to day light sweeping already mention, its a big key, i myself have become run over with wood , yea i know…i really dont know the answer to that one, i love wood, and cant stomach the idea of burning it…so…lol…


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


I forgot to say ,I started by placing my table saw so I can cut a full sheet of ply and walk around it easily , then I thought of other operations like jointing your wood after sawing it on the table saw,and then you will want the saw you cross cut with close by also. For me that's the working triangle of a wood shop. 
This might help too.

http://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


Great ideas. I do the cleanup after I work, Don't have the dust collection set up. Checked inside my cabinet saw, LOL! Whoa! Haven't looked in there since I rehabbed it. My old craftsman didn't have a cabinet.

My shop has different rooms as I didn't plan it too well. There is space but it's compartmentalized. My work area for sawing etc is about 12.5 ft by 26 ft. so it's half of a two car garage in length . Have two other rooms on first floor from original small animal barn and an addition I built within the foot print of my grandfathered building.

Grizz I have a lot of plywood 3/4 inch. Old Pine boards and other materials. Oh yeah I've some rough oak and ash sitting in the12×12 machine shed area.

Jim I have checked that shop layout thing out. I have my bandsaw, table saw and lathe in one room ( shop area) Have my drill press and 6" x 48 inch sander in the machine shed.

Phil and Bigrock thanks for your input.

Joe I have to clean it otherwise my cats will clean it for me. LOL!


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


My shop is divided into 2 rooms with an attached garage as well as an attic above used for wood storage.
The first several years I spent a lot of time rearranging tool location. But I must have finally gotten it right because I haven't moved anything for over a year.
I have a vid of my shop which is reasonably up to date in my profile. I have added another drum sander and a second bandsaw since I did the vid. Both are in the lower shop on casters.


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## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


FRENCH CLEATS!


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


I use every possible bit of wall space for storage to help keep my shop organized. I also use the two shelves below the worktables to store lumber.


















I also have 4 trays on the edges of my worktable to hold small items that would normally clutter the top. They have a wire mesh bottom to keep the dust from building up. easily cleaned with compressed air


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## SebringDon (Feb 1, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


Although most people say clean up at the end of the day, I'm just the opposite. When I'm done, I'm done, and the last thing I'll do well is clean.

Instead, when I head to the shop in the morning, I watch a little TV while I drink my morning coffee and putter around, putting away tools and such. That gets my blood moving, and the smell of sawdust and finish in the air inspires me to dive into whatever project I have going on.

Different strokes for different folks and all that. If you're one of the people who loathe cleaning at the end of a day like I do, give my morning warm-up routine a try.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


Greg, Those wire mesh drawer bottoms are a great idea!


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## Vincent (Mar 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


My shop has two main work areas. The table saw and my workbenches are in a fixed location, Everything else has wheels so they can be moved around. I try to store tool accessories with the tool. The table saw is surrounded by my mortiser, drill press, router table, miter saw, dust collector and jointer. The workbenches have hand tools, finishing supplies, parts and hardware and sharpening supplies nearby. If you look over my projects, you will see that I have built a lot of storage cabinets/mobile bases. I have French cleats that hold all of my storage cabinets and tool cabinets. I do occasional re-arrange the layout on the wall. I make an effort to return the tools to their storage location once I am finished with them. I use a clean as you go philosophy. I try to avoid mountains of sawdust.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


This is a great thread. Thanks guys. I need inspiration.


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## harry1 (Feb 22, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


Your question Thomas struck me as being about dust collection, if this is so then I have to admit that until recently I haven't taken dust collection seriously but now I intend to and to that end I have equipped each machine with it's own dust collector operated by master/slave switches so that when the machine is switched on the DC also comes on. I hit a snag here with my recently purchased Bosch GCM12GDL glide saw, because it has twin Laser beams and even if they aren't switched on the saw draws sufficient current so long as it plugged into the power point that the dust collector comes on without the saw. Because I've been out of electronics since 2000, I handed the problem to a slightly younger friend who is still in the industry and he built me a master/slave switch based on a pickaxe programmable chip and by experiment it's been programmed for the DC to come on 1.5 seconds after the saw and go off 6 seconds after the saw is switched off to collect residual dust.
Every tool has a place and at the end of each project they are all returned
The 5th and 6th shots show the master/slave switch made by my friend and one of several that I have assembled, for the rest I have used plastic boxes. The first shot is not intended to insult members intelligence but was in answer to a member's question on another forum.


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


I am in need of setting up mine correctly, it is high on my list for 2014


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


Harry,

Who is the master and who is the slave? LOL

Nice set up. One should be safe and creative in the shop. Stuff lying around will cause tripping and that can be serious around tools. I do clean up after each session in my shop. Built a modified large thein dust canister then got offered a full time job which may be coming to an end soon, so I'm back to getting my tools set up and looking to be more efficient and functional in my 12.5×26 ft work space that has a lathe, jointer/planer, band saw, humidifier, and compressor, oh yeah the router table too.

So I am asking the creative problem solvers like yourself to share their wisdom.

I'm hoping this will help others as well.


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## stefang (Apr 9, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


For me the main things are to have a place for every tool and stop working to clean up before you are too tired or out of time. I don't always clean up the days mess, but I am gradually getting better at it all the time.


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## Bricofleur (Aug 28, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


Hi Tom,

If I would reorganize my shop I would install wall cabinets all around the shop so the floor would be free for mobile tools and benchtop tool cabinets, some with drawers and some with doors and pull-out shelves.

Good luck and take your time.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


Mike, Serge,

Mike I've been taking 15 min power naps for many years. Keeps me from screwing up. ( too much LOL)

Serge, as always great minds think …what..Hugh? LOL! Planning on using all that acquired pine and firand plywood to make shop cabinets. Like for my drill press, and my lathe. Thinking also about table saw and router. should hone my cabinet making skills and get rid of some wood?


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## whitebeast88 (May 27, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


great thread tom.i've started the last couple of months trying to put stuff up when i'm done and finally organized my hardware and clamps.which made things easier to clean up now.my problem now is i have a dust collector that i've had over a year and want to hard pipe some lines i just can't make up my mind how to run it.hope all the best for you on your dc and organization.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


Whitebeast88,

Great Picture of you hard workin shop folk.

Hope you guys are working safe. I've purchased 4 inch flex tubing, and many different joints, but I didn't have good information. There is great stuff here on LJ's. I would have done it differently, but I'm going to use what I have. I have so much hindsight I could walk backwards. LOL!


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## Woodbutchery (Aug 1, 2008)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


While I'm still in the middle of a re-alignment phase in my workshop (I use up over half a two car garage ), some habits that work for me.

1) Clean the shop up at the end of the work period: This works for me, and I don't feel like I have to do chores before I can get to the fun part of making sawdust. Doc does his at the start, a warm-up of sorts. Try both, use the one that you feel fits you best.

2) Organize your tools: I'm still working on this, though I put up a french cleat system on the wall above my work bench, I haven't got it at all where I want it, yet, but I'm writing a list of ideas of what I want it to look like.

3) Reduce your scrap: Find small projects, jigs, support pieces. I am getting to the point where I keep only the more interesting wood scraps (walnut, good figured maple, bubinga (which is almost as fun to type as it is to say ;-) ), etc. MDF, etc., gets used for jigs or backing boards for saw cuts; I don't need to keep them forever.

4) I am converting to the "avoid too many tools" philosophy. How many freakin' hammers do I need?! ;-)

5) Put everything on casters: The only thing I don't have on casters is my drill press (yet), and my workbench, which is attached to the wall. I am getting ready to put together a workstand for my planer, and make my life much easier and my back much happier. The tools on coasters allow me to conofigure the room according to the project (s), and when the weather's nice, roll planers, jointers, etc., out in the nice sunlight where I don't have to sweep up so much ;-).

By no means do I consider myself an old hand at this - I'm still learning a lot almost every day I step into the workshop. I'm just finding that I want to step into the workshop more often with the items above.

6) Remember why you're there: In my case, I've got a piece of paper with "Woodworking is a hobby" in bold letters, along with other things to remember to help me have fun while I'm working.


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## JohnnyStrawberry (Jan 20, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


Great thread!
At last a topic I can contribute to. :-D
Well, about one cent…
Dust? Part of my life. But not part of my body! I ALWAYS wear my respirator.
The rest just does not matter.
I have a vinyl flooring which is actually reasonably more slippery when it's clean.
So there is always a thin layer of sawdust on the floor.
On a good day I can spend ca. 4 hours in the shop. It would be a royal pain to use, say, 20 minutes of that for cleaning… But that may be just me. I try to maximize the building time in the shop time.
I have found an optimum shop keeping way FOR ME as:
The DC (which is not a shop vac) is connected to the workstation or to the jointer/planer with a 6' long 4" flex tube. That sucks up more than 95% of the dust/shavings. (Well, let me count a bit. I've produced well over 1000 l shaving and sawdust during the build of the lower kitchen cabinets and only about a few gallons ended up on the floor. So I should say 98-99%)
For hand routing I use the shop vac only while routing mortises and the DC while routing half blind dovetails.
Yeah, everything gets dusty in my shop pretty soon. 
Even the wall is pretty dusty…
But by the end of this month I have to clean everything because I'm fed up with renting; I'll buy a separate garage. (I should've done that before.) So a big move is due soon…


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *How do you manage your shop?*
> 
> Spent at least 4 hours today just cleaning up. Wanted to start planning my dust collection stations , joints etc, but I ended up just counting what parts I have collected so far and cleaning up garbage and saw dust from inside my cabinet saw.
> 
> ...


Woodbutchery ( I used to call me the Woodbutcher, after the book "The Woodbutchers Art") If you've read my tool assembly journey blog, I have opted for that. Getting large pieces of wood used or gone is another step. A large enough storage locker outside the back door.

I've only been putting 4 hours in and clean up takes at least a half hour, but I haveA family of inside bshop cats who make sure I "always, almost always, cleanup at the end of the work period.

Johnny, Your insight is always welcome. Good luck on moving!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*

No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.

I am going back into private practice. No money, just my energy. I have a sign that was left by the previous tenant. My wife graciously cut stencils with her new cutting machine. Last night I searched for paint while feeding my pride of cats in the shop. been about 8 months since I painted. found a can of exterior semi gloss. So I turned the can upside down on the top of my metric tool box.

Went to prepare the sign, and found a white paint puddle on my tool box and in/on the old concrete. Some of it hardened.

Spent two and a half hours with scrapers, hot water and rags. GRRRR!

I did manage to sand and put a coat of paint on the sign board.

Do you have any similar dumb tales to tell? LOL!


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


Spilled paint, spilled stain, spilled finish, spilled glue. If I have bought it, then at some point I have spilled it.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


LOL!


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## 489tad (Feb 26, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


I've spilled. My best was installing crown molding in our bedroom. I glued a scarf joint with gorilla glue. Comforter not covered. I didn't see the dime size drop till the glue had dried. I sanded down the drop and tried to color match back with markers. SHHHHHHHHH. I haven't caught heat for that yet.


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## UncleStumpy (Jan 26, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


Bitch gettin' old, eh doc?

I'm right there along with you! I'm right along with Monte too. Although my most spectacular goof-ups mostly fall into the "measure once, cut twice" category.

Happy shrinking!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


I'm with Monte you name it at some point in my life I have spilled it. I'm sure I've cried over spilt milk too.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


I like my mistakes being "too long." My grandfather use to say"cut it off twice and it was still too short." LOL!

Will be doing the " shrinking" a few days a week and the "screwing up in the shop," the other.

I usually "verbally exclaim" when I spill stuff. LOL!


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## Bobsboxes (Feb 8, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


I was doing a kitchen remodel, years ago for very tough homeowners, they could not agree on anything. I had just installed lower cabinets, hardwood floor was being installed, and they insisted we pick the paint a that very minute. I had picked up several quart samples of the colors they had picked out. I had about 4 quarts of paint in my arms, coming into the flooring guys area, a quart of light blue fell out of my arms, hit just right and top came off and drowned every thing in kitchen. It took 6 of us a couple hours to clean up, about the only thing they agreed on was that they liked that color. Luckily we were able to clean it all up, but I felt very stupid.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


WOW!


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## Woodbridge (Oct 12, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


Hi Tom, I spilled half a can of gel stain this afternoon. Even though I know I have placed the can in a precarious spot I just continue on. Good thing its was gel stain, otherwise I would have had to clean up a whole can of spilled stain.

When it come to paint, stain and glue I'm not the tidiest fellow as my shop floor will attest to.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


maybe something is awry with the wood god? LOL! Guys I'm feeling better already! Lots of good company!


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## whitebeast88 (May 27, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


don't feel bad doc,any time you want to feel better just come to my shop and i'll show you some first class goof-ups!!!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


Like?


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


Show me a woodworker who says he has not spilled anything in the shop and we will find a woodworker that never uses his shop.


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


It's been so long since I've spilled I can't remember if at all, maybe I need to just get a can and dump it so I'll be up to date? LOL


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


Randy,

Don't tell Greg. LOL!


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## lanwater (May 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


I have spilled many things. The most spectacular was a gallon of white paint I just opened; I could not hose it down because the wood around so it was bucket and mop and super speed.

The miniwax stain is still visible on the floor. I used my T-shirt to clean for that one.


----------



## JohnnyStrawberry (Jan 20, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


WOW, Bob, we have a winner! :-D
Not so much spill stories here but I somehow managed to cut short one of the most important boards in my current kitchen project.
I solved that though. ;-)


----------



## 111 (Sep 2, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


Knocked over a quart can of stain at a customers brand new house with a brand new driveway. Stain went from the top of the driveway all the way to the bottom. 
Trying to wipe up stain on concrete ….well….lets just say it left a stain.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #2 Screwed Up Again!*
> 
> No deep thoughts while out in the shop today. Just cleaning up about a pint of paint that was spread across my floor. It's porous old concrete so it took me about 2 and a half hrs.
> 
> ...


Hey Johnny, Kevin, Greg ,Randy, Ian, Whitebeast, Woodbridge, bugz, Jim, and Uncle Stummpy,

I did it again! LOL! This time opening a frozen lid on some waterbourne poly in a jar. Had newspaper down though. Whew!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Shop Notes #3 Dowel shrinkage in older furniture*

Working on the Sign and waiting for un-spilled paint to dry. LOL Decided to upgrade the finish on some older wooden furniture that I used before to make it a bit nicer for my clients.

Working on a 3 seater wooden sofa that was hidden away in a back room. Upgrade the finish by blending and touching up scratches and use "Danish oil" to give it some sparkle.

Good thing I took it apart. Found some strapping for the cushions that was starting to give way. That would not go well? Finding grooved dowels that appear to be shrunk and have loosened.

I'm wondering what would be the best course to put it back together?

I've not done this before. Thinking some sawdust and yellow glue to tighten the hold?

Suggestions welcome. Thanks


----------



## Woodbridge (Oct 12, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #3 Dowel shrinkage in older furniture*
> 
> Working on the Sign and waiting for un-spilled paint to dry. LOL Decided to upgrade the finish on some older wooden furniture that I used before to make it a bit nicer for my clients.
> 
> ...


Hi Doc, It may be a bit unorthodox but when I re-glued some chairs for my cousin (corner braces and various dowels) I used PL premium construction adhesive. I'm not really that knowledgeable on furniture restoration but if the dowel holes have dried glue in them I'm not sure how well wood glue will stick.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #3 Dowel shrinkage in older furniture*
> 
> Working on the Sign and waiting for un-spilled paint to dry. LOL Decided to upgrade the finish on some older wooden furniture that I used before to make it a bit nicer for my clients.
> 
> ...


Thanks, didn't think of that and I do buildings a lot…LOL!


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #3 Dowel shrinkage in older furniture*
> 
> Working on the Sign and waiting for un-spilled paint to dry. LOL Decided to upgrade the finish on some older wooden furniture that I used before to make it a bit nicer for my clients.
> 
> ...


Howsa bout some enlarging the dowel holes to the next available dowel size and using larger dowels.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #3 Dowel shrinkage in older furniture*
> 
> Working on the Sign and waiting for un-spilled paint to dry. LOL Decided to upgrade the finish on some older wooden furniture that I used before to make it a bit nicer for my clients.
> 
> ...


The dowels that are in the sofa are grooved. Might have a dowel rod that's larger, might have to purchase some dowelling? Is that Golem from Lord of the Rings, or did you get a new do?

Thanks Gumbo Guy


----------



## 111 (Sep 2, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #3 Dowel shrinkage in older furniture*
> 
> Working on the Sign and waiting for un-spilled paint to dry. LOL Decided to upgrade the finish on some older wooden furniture that I used before to make it a bit nicer for my clients.
> 
> ...


Not recommending a fix, I would go with what has been said above, drill new holes and use bigger dowel.
I'm just curious, "Dowel Shrinkage" did the dowel shrink or was the hole enlarged do to wear? What wood is the dowel made of and what wood is the chair? Is the chair softer wood?


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #3 Dowel shrinkage in older furniture*
> 
> Working on the Sign and waiting for un-spilled paint to dry. LOL Decided to upgrade the finish on some older wooden furniture that I used before to make it a bit nicer for my clients.
> 
> ...


Different woods in the sofa. The dowels were glued at one time as best I can tell. The fit is snug. Can't tell the species of the dowel, but it is a white wood.

Thanks


----------



## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #3 Dowel shrinkage in older furniture*
> 
> Working on the Sign and waiting for un-spilled paint to dry. LOL Decided to upgrade the finish on some older wooden furniture that I used before to make it a bit nicer for my clients.
> 
> ...


Hi Thomas, this is the trouble, or maybe benefit of living in another part of the world, you wake up after everyone has solved the problem!  
I agree with different parts of each bit of advice given. If it is a decent piece of furniture, and especially if it is for someone else other than yourself, I would stick to wood glue, it was made with a purpose.I would also try to drill out the dowel holes with the same size bit, just to remove any glue residue, rather than making a bigger hole, and use new dowels for added strength,if they are out of sight and colour matching is not an issue. 
If using a different dowel is going to be an issue on colour matching, you can get around this by filling the existing dowel hole with a snug fitting new dowel, then whilst waiting for the glue to dry, in a piece of scrap wood find a bit that allows a snug fit for the old dowel, then drill into the new dowel, and refit the old one!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #3 Dowel shrinkage in older furniture*
> 
> Working on the Sign and waiting for un-spilled paint to dry. LOL Decided to upgrade the finish on some older wooden furniture that I used before to make it a bit nicer for my clients.
> 
> ...


Doc chances are the dowels are maple. If it is unseen I would use a putty epoxy. It won't run out of cracks and get into or on things you don't want it to. I would totally refill the holes, recenter and dowel again.
IMHO


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Shop Notes #3 Dowel shrinkage in older furniture*
> 
> Working on the Sign and waiting for un-spilled paint to dry. LOL Decided to upgrade the finish on some older wooden furniture that I used before to make it a bit nicer for my clients.
> 
> ...


Phil. Dave, Greg, Woodbridge,

Thanks different perspectives and help! It's for my office, it's under the cushions. I'll have to look into the epoxy putty for future visible problems.

Have to see what my local Ace/FleetFarm has to get the thing in my office. I have some clients coming! Yipee Skipee!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*

Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!

When I took the sofa apart to rub down the finish and fine sand some gouges, I found the webbing was breaking down. It might be funning in a comedy show but not in my office! Found webbing today at my Ace Hardware place in town. And brass grommets. Problem solved. I Screwed up the sign, and made a new one. The painting of the lettering is the tough part. After all I am a professional so no tacky lettering.

Got the sign background done and the heat is up in the shop to dry the paint. Also rubbed down the finish with 4 ought fine and matched the stain.

Hey haven't screwed up …yet! LOL! Cleaned up and came in the house. Two clients lined up and one maybe. Relief!

And my final purchase of what I think are necessary tools came today…early! A 22 inch smoothing plane with a four star Amazon rating. Even negative criticism was good, and I got tired of waiting to find a Bailey #6 in good condition in my price range.

Soooo! tomorrow I will put a finish on the wood for the sofa. Thinking either water bourn poly or Tripp Danish oil? Any thoughts

Then I have a small desk for my small office that needs upgrading. It's Art Deco. A found piece at my old resale shop. And I have a chair( needing repining that matches!

Then I can finish the office and get back to figuring out the shop!

How's your day been?


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


Hi Tom
Sounds like you've had some good progress on all fronts. How about a photo of your sign and sofa when your finished with them. Congrats on you prospective clients.Some good water borne poly should work well for you.
Keep on trucking buddy.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


I had a great day Tom and it sounds like you are very busy which is a good thing .
Glad to hear your tools are coming in and I look forward to some project posts .
Don't fall asleep on that couch and keep those customers happy .


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


well …seee im wanting to get to the brass and bolts of this, i know you servr wine with your cheese….but after all the hand shakes and patting the shoulers and such, THEN WHAT HAPPENS, your turn


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


Jim, trying to use what I have . Ain't exciting woodworking but I will post.

Kiefer, I was teasing the one client who likes to relax on the couch that I was doing all this just for her. LOL!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


Not wine Grizz "Whine!" LOL!

After the office is together, I plan on getting some use out of my tools! Like my Brand spanking new made in India for Grizzly 22" hand plane!

Now I have to feed the pride.

Oh yeah thanks for reminding me. One of my kitty boys was limping and had a swollen foot. More doctor bills. did a "wait an see." He had no swelling and was limping less. Hopfully another good thing outside the shop!


----------



## whitebeast88 (May 27, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


glad things are coming along for you.i had a good day started plumbing my dust collection system,haven't made it far can't make up my mind to what i need to do.


----------



## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


Very productive day you have had


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


Marty, Google it and you will find a lot of interesting ideas. That is on the top of my list as I have all the pieces.

Norm, About time LOL! Can use a few more where I don't screw it up….LOL! Hope you had a good day too!


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


well what i want to see is the dr do a self to self session, and post it here…and it must include woodworking…


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


Sounds like you had a good day.

Good day here. Hauled logs. More lumber to cut!


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


I woke up this morning and was still breathing…so that is a great start…The rest each day is on me and what I make of it…


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


Mone can you set up a video, and post it on youtube with a link to LJ's? Like to see your mill at work. Oh yeah see how you manage the lumber too.

Grizz, got to survive. and pay for cat doctor bills, like the eye removal and subsequent brain infection for one of my cats. I will have more shop time since I am on my own again, and I am not traveling 44 miles each way.

Greg, Is that Golum speaking? I'm glad you got up then! ( by the way I agree)


----------



## justoneofme (Aug 11, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


I hear ya Doc … Restorations give me a few 'whine' moments too. I've just finished restoring an old, worn out and broken glider plus stool. Something relaxing for my 'she-den'! ....








Now, with that project out of the way, I spent today cleaning up my workshop!! Good luck with your restorations


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


Yours is a restoration. Mine is refurbishing. The wood in my sofa is stained or dyed walnut. So I used walnut stain after 4 ought steel wool. It will be better than it was( I hope…LOL) It is also coveredby cushions. I will post later as Jim asked me to do so.

My little desk might take some restoring, ie sanding, sealing, and finishing. The Desk chair, Not sure.

Where is the wine intarsia box? right hand or left side.?

1 am goin to bed.

You do wine, I've just been whining. LOL!


----------



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


Sounds like a nice productive day Thomas.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


Randy,

Thanks for checking in. Got some interesting responses on this one.

Can I do it two days in a row? LOL!


----------



## dbhost (Jul 20, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


Sounds like you have been busy! Congrats on scoring that webbing locally… Sometimes that kind of stuff is hard to find!


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


hope your having a good day doc….would like to see a picture of this new plane..wow its a big one…i dont think ive got the umph to push that one..pretty much confirmed i have a bad disc below my neck area and its affected both arms… ...but im not complaining…hope the pride is doing ok…


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finally A GoodDay in the Shop and outside of the shop! How was your day?*
> 
> Been complaining about bad days. I serve whine with my cheese!" LOL! I have been refurbishing a sofa for my re opened office. I also am making my office sign. Why? Cause I have more time now than money!
> 
> ...


dbhost,

Thanks, Gotta install it.

Grizz,

sorry that your not able to do more, you have done some great stuff. Report on how the present went?

Will probably do a review and a post on the plane, now I gotta get my ash in gear! Webbing to install and a finish and screwing up the letters on my sign.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Finishing it?*

Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It's been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now.

Just decided to refurbish it for my reopened office. Thought it was mahogany but it turns out it is 1/3rd mahogany.

I was going to rub down the finish with four ought (o#0000) steel wool and put a coat of stain and poly on it. When I go started it needed to be taken apart as most of the fluted dowel pins were dried out.

Then I decided to remove the finish. Sanded to 220 grit, but that took awhile. Found that there are various species under the finish.

the woods have different densities and some small knots.

Not the best for a fluted leg chair in an Art Deco style? Today I put on a seal coat, and bought chestnut stain.

There is a lot of time in this chair (sanding the fluted parts and the routed groves in the arms.) It will be stronger and it will last a while longer. But boy how they made cheap furniture way back when.

I was wondering what would other people do?

*What would be your method for doing this?*

If it were all mahogany I'd just go with natural finish.

But I am learning as I make my mistakes. LOL!

*What would be your go to finish? and why?*

Thanks


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finishing it?*
> 
> Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It's been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now.
> 
> ...


i would go with a semi gloss lacquer, one its a hard finish and two it wont yello , inless you use the water base poly, but i like lacquer, it dries fast also…thats my go to ..


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finishing it?*
> 
> Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It's been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now.
> 
> ...


Thanks Bob,

haven't used it. Have had a few people really like it for its quick results.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finishing it?*
> 
> Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It's been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now.
> 
> ...


Hi Tom
A photo might help. If all of the woods are different in color a stain might not get it all to look a like,if they are alike you might be able to get it to work with a gel stain. Before you try anything I would wipe it down a couple times with some naphtha to make sure you have a 100% clear of contaminants . Another way to go might be to use some dye to blend the unlike woods color together.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finishing it?*
> 
> Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It's been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now.
> 
> ...


Thanks,

You sound like someone we know. LOL! Local ace does not have much. And it's between 34 and 44 miles to get to a store like Lowes.


----------



## Radu (Jan 25, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finishing it?*
> 
> Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It's been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now.
> 
> ...


Not an expert advice, and not knowing how the chair looks but here is what I would do: a seal coat of shellac followed by a light sanding. Then a coat of say colonial pine and then a darker stain - walnut - heavier closer to the joints and lighter in between. Then a few coats of lacquer or shellac. It'll be kind of rustic look.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finishing it?*
> 
> Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It's been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now.
> 
> ...


Ha Ha There's this crazy thing called the internet you go to,you send them money and the send you stuff


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finishing it?*
> 
> Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It's been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now.
> 
> ...


Jim, Your right about the net! Use it all the time. Checked my bank statement today. Got to stop eBay and Amazon one-click. Oh yeah I have to file my insurance billing or I may have to "let me go." LOL!

Radu, that's what I've got in the shop. my walnut stain is water bourne. I have gotten some chestnut oil stain cause that was available. Sealed it today as I have to move forward.

Thanks for the ideas.! And methods of attack! It's appreciated.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finishing it?*
> 
> Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It's been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now.
> 
> ...


I would get the different woods to near the same color.
Then start rubbing it down with a poly rub and steel wool. Over and over and over.
Poly Rub
1 part Polyurathane
1 part Boiled Linseed oil

Finish the last few coats with a lint free cloth.
IMHO


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finishing it?*
> 
> Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It's been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now.
> 
> ...


Dave,

I have been gathering some great information here. I think the Poly Rub is an off shoot of the mix Sam Maloof used?

Thanks!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finishing it?*
> 
> Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It's been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now.
> 
> ...


Yes you are correct.


----------



## benjireyes (Dec 21, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finishing it?*
> 
> Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It's been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now.
> 
> ...


I almost missed out on this Tom> Without a photo, I can only imagine the fluted legs and the routed arm rests with only its raised parts sanded to #360 and finished in oil and bees wax. It will give the grooves more depth and character…Overall the chair. But then again your the best person who knows how my imagination goes. Lol. Have fun with it!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Finishing it?*
> 
> Out in the shop today working on my desk chair which is a found item from a resale shop many years ago. Thought it had some character. It's been sitting gathering dust and cat hair for a few years now.
> 
> ...


Benji.

Thanks for sharing. Found the chair back is wracked. My wife asked about the legs when I showed her the results of 8 hors of sanding. "Is there something wrong with the legs?" It was a cheap production piece. With character. Why I took the time. Did a seal coat and sanded, then oil based stain. 36 hrs still not dry! Only 55 in my shop, when it's 39 below outside.

It has shape and design potential for better quality wood. Bought it long ago before I became more wood smart!

Thanks for your input!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Using water bourn (based) stains (HELP!)*

Picked up some Minwax (water based stain) at my local box store. I'm used to oil based as I have a lot of it. Can't remember if I did it intentionally LOL! Have used it when I did my refurbishing of my office sofa. That was over a 4 ought steel wool rub down of the sofa frame pieces.

Working on my last two furniture pieces I'm refurbishing for the office. Will post the pieces per requests from fellow LJ's

Keeping this topic narrowed to the stain, I'm wondering if any of you have used it? Did you use and apply according to directions?

In one place it says leave stain on 3 to 5 minutes before wiping, and in another place in directions it says "do not leave stain on for more than three minutes" Really?

Ok, to apply oil based stains I usually do a seal coat then work the stain.

In this case the directions do not ask for this step.

OK….. I sanded the top down on my little desk. It has alternating walnut and I'm guessing maple boards? But it was an opaque stained or painted top that had an even dark brown coat, but scratched, scraped and blotched. Now sanded to 220 grit. Looking to make the surface match the desk design; Art Deco features.

Want to even out the surface tone wise. Don't understand use of light and dark woods . Maybe what was available, but not part of the design.

Looking for experienced advice! Thanks


----------



## andyboy (Jun 9, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Using water bourn (based) stains (HELP!)*
> 
> Picked up some Minwax (water based stain) at my local box store. I'm used to oil based as I have a lot of it. Can't remember if I did it intentionally LOL! Have used it when I did my refurbishing of my office sofa. That was over a 4 ought steel wool rub down of the sofa frame pieces.
> 
> ...


Tom.
I hate water based stain with a passion. 
I bought 5 cans about 10 yr ago and took them all back. I just couldn't get an even finish. I even asked the supplier to demonstrate and he selected a new off the shelf brush and spent 45 minutes unsuccessfully trying to prove me wrong. 
I made a student strip his work 3 times before returning to the oil. To make it worse for the poor guy, he had a lot of lattice work.
Oil or spirit unless things have changed. 
Tiny areas are easy, but detailed areas a nightmare!!!!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Using water bourn (based) stains (HELP!)*
> 
> Picked up some Minwax (water based stain) at my local box store. I'm used to oil based as I have a lot of it. Can't remember if I did it intentionally LOL! Have used it when I did my refurbishing of my office sofa. That was over a 4 ought steel wool rub down of the sofa frame pieces.
> 
> ...


Andy,

Looking to produce an even color although the wood is light and dark. Wold you not use a seal coat and just work on light areas?

Like I said the design is Art Deco. ( Oh yeah, it's bad construction as well. Want to get through it, vs. making a beautiful piece. This thing appears to be EARLY IKEA!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Using water bourn (based) stains (HELP!)*
> 
> Picked up some Minwax (water based stain) at my local box store. I'm used to oil based as I have a lot of it. Can't remember if I did it intentionally LOL! Have used it when I did my refurbishing of my office sofa. That was over a 4 ought steel wool rub down of the sofa frame pieces.
> 
> ...


Would it be simpler to use contact cement and cut a top from veneer?


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Using water bourn (based) stains (HELP!)*
> 
> Picked up some Minwax (water based stain) at my local box store. I'm used to oil based as I have a lot of it. Can't remember if I did it intentionally LOL! Have used it when I did my refurbishing of my office sofa. That was over a 4 ought steel wool rub down of the sofa frame pieces.
> 
> ...


Water borne dyes and stains are totally different than what they were ten years ago, in time that's all that will be available.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Using water bourn (based) stains (HELP!)*
> 
> Picked up some Minwax (water based stain) at my local box store. I'm used to oil based as I have a lot of it. Can't remember if I did it intentionally LOL! Have used it when I did my refurbishing of my office sofa. That was over a 4 ought steel wool rub down of the sofa frame pieces.
> 
> ...


Have you run into this? Any suggestions? Thanks!


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Using water bourn (based) stains (HELP!)*
> 
> Picked up some Minwax (water based stain) at my local box store. I'm used to oil based as I have a lot of it. Can't remember if I did it intentionally LOL! Have used it when I did my refurbishing of my office sofa. That was over a 4 ought steel wool rub down of the sofa frame pieces.
> 
> ...


i dont have any experience so i wont comment, but i will say something….i rarely..ever use stain..wish i could help…hope it all turns out


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Using water bourn (based) stains (HELP!)*
> 
> Picked up some Minwax (water based stain) at my local box store. I'm used to oil based as I have a lot of it. Can't remember if I did it intentionally LOL! Have used it when I did my refurbishing of my office sofa. That was over a 4 ought steel wool rub down of the sofa frame pieces.
> 
> ...


Thanks Bob,

Trial and a lot of error? LOL!


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Using water bourn (based) stains (HELP!)*
> 
> Picked up some Minwax (water based stain) at my local box store. I'm used to oil based as I have a lot of it. Can't remember if I did it intentionally LOL! Have used it when I did my refurbishing of my office sofa. That was over a 4 ought steel wool rub down of the sofa frame pieces.
> 
> ...


Tom
I've been using waterborne topcoats for years and the last few years I've been using water base dye stain.The advantage of dye is that every time you put you put another coat on it your wood gets darker,so this way you have a lot more control of the color your putting on. Most stains seal the wood after the first or second coat making it impossible to get your wood any darker. This is why I would select a dye over stain. If you want a quick and dirty fix just paint it a wood color and clear coat it.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020491/22648/General-Finishes-Water-Based-Dye-Cinnamon-Pint.aspx?keyword=brandGeneral_Finishes_and_adwords_labelsWater_Based&refcode=10INGOPB&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CKOMr8Gjw7wCFVJcfgodMlgA_w


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Using water bourn (based) stains (HELP!)*
> 
> Picked up some Minwax (water based stain) at my local box store. I'm used to oil based as I have a lot of it. Can't remember if I did it intentionally LOL! Have used it when I did my refurbishing of my office sofa. That was over a 4 ought steel wool rub down of the sofa frame pieces.
> 
> ...


Thanks!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*What do you do with rust?*

Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.

I probably have not cleaned scrubbed some of them since I got them 13 years ago.

My Hammers and hand planes also have developed rust spots or a whole hammer full!

Took most of my shop time and cleaned all of my clamps. I haven't even used some that had rust on them!

The summer here is pretty humid. When it's hot my concrete floor is old and moisture comes through. Set up my old window ac but it's not efficient and it is not running when I'm not there but my furnace is always puttin out at least 55 degrees. I add humidity in the winter.

I have purchased some blow shield, but just used steel wool, 220 sandpaper, and WD40.

What do other LJ's do was my thought. So I'm asking What do you do?

Thanks


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


hey Tom…have you thought about giving everything a good coat of paste wax? I always keep the table tops of all tools waxed to help when pushing wood across them. It will also help in rust prevention. If you have rust problems ongoing maintenance is a necessity. WD40 will be good to clean the rust up but will make the tools oily and can stain wood. 
There are many rust cleanup and prevention products you can buy also


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


RUST…yuck..my shop has no concrete , its all wood and that must be a factor, my tools pretty much dont have to big of a problem, but sometimes i do…so i do basicly the same as you, wd40, steel wool or some 400 grit sand paper…and i think the biggest key is staying on it, if you dont , you get accumulation…and then its a real pain to get rid of, it pits…i mostly have surface rust, so stay on it, dont let it pit…thats all i know doc…


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Greg,

Have some Navel jelly. Oh yeah I hve the parts to do hydrolisis, but I'm still working on those two furniture rehab projects.

Yep I did a coat of paste wax. Guess I didn't put that in the story. LOL!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Grizz, Thanks.

I had bought the wood to lay down a floor, but I had caused a problem when I jacked the wall of the shop and reframed it. The wall was about a 1/16th of an inch too big and when I rains hard I get seepage. We;ve had draught the past two years. Wood floors are easy on the legs.


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## balidoug (Aug 13, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


In my old, outdoor shop in Bali I fought a running battle with corrosion. Humidity was high, even in the "dry" season, and with the sea less than a mile away ….

I put sachets of desiccant (that stuff you find in the bottom of chips bags that says "do not eat") in the drawers of my tool cabinet to keep the humidity down, and that helped a lot. Problem is, you have to "recharge" it periodically by cooking it in the oven. The greater the humidity, the more often the need to recharge.

I used, with some success, a product called Corrosion X on planes, chisels, and saws. It seemed to work, as long as I was meticulous about applying it at the end of every work session. Forget once, and uh oh. Too, the product was a little pricey, and I have nothing to compare results to.

FWW did a piece a year or two ago comparing several products and interestingly WD-40 won.

For the occasions when time, climate, and/or indolence got the best of me, I found evapo-rust did a good job of cleaning things up.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Ballidog,

My problems are small compared rto what you had to deal with, There is a downside to living in paradise. LOL!

Thanks!


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Tom…you could also get a dehumidifier. They really do a great job. My shop is insulated with spray foam and never has a rust problem…but I also have a 12×20 shed that I use for storage and lumber that is not insulated. I run a dehumidifier in the shed and it is kept rust free and dry.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Greg,

Have a couple in my basement. One goes to a drain the other shuts off when full. I hope to get a more efficient Window AC to match the volume of my shop space.

Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


I think I agree with most of the suggestions except how you clean your machineries tops, I would never use steel wool because your leaving little metal particles all over your shop,plus contaminating your finishes (particularly water base finishes) I use and old Random orbital sander with some scotch bright pads underneath and some automotive rubbing compound. This takes off even heavy rust ,after the bulk of the rust is off I use a soft rage under the ROS and clean of the excess,then after all of the rubbing compound is off and the soft rags cannot pick up any more rust or dirt,then I use a soft rag and ROS to apply automotive wax.This makes for a long lasting slick surface for all of your machinery


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## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Hi Tom,
I give every metal tool however small, a light coat of WD40 every year, and I have had no problems!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Jim,

Thanks again. I'm pretty regular about my cabinet saw and my old craftsman. The "but statement" is I set a cleaner bottle on my band saw and I hadn't been in the shop due to my other paying job, and humidity had formed under the bottle ! I used Emory sand paper, I'd also used a 330 grit on my oscillating sander. Then rubbing compound. After getting the oxidation off I put a coat of Johnson's paste wax on it.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Phil,

I wonder how your new shop will affect your tools. I wish I had more time, energy, or some interested nieghbor kids, as I think I need to seal my OLD concrete?


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## benjireyes (Dec 21, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Hi Tom,
Some of the carving tools that I use I get from Baligog's paradise. They are some of the best blades but rust fast when they get in contact with water. I store them in a wooden box during the monsoon season after every use and give them a coat of WD40. It all works for me. Did you know that the main ingredient for WD40 is fish oil? I wonder if Grizzman ever used it for some of his mean cooking. LOL


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Benji,

So maybe my shop cats are causing the rust? LOL! didn't know that about WD40!


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


a big fat can sits between my salt and pepper


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Grizz,

LOL!


----------



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Thomas, if you have a bucket or trough big enough to put your clamps in, get a couple few gallons of Apple Cider Vinegar and let your rusty parts sit in if for a couple days and they'll come out look as good as new.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Randy,

Probably cheaper than lemon juice! Thanks!


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


I use bees wax, blo and mineral spirits.
Its good as finish on metal and wood.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Dave,

Just found some back saws with more rust and pitting( small pits) 220, course and fine steel wool and some past wax as that is what I had on hand.

Bought Blo-shield and a competitor. Not in shop when I was doing it. LOL!

Thanks


----------



## dbray45 (Oct 19, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


Once you have things cleaned up - dehumidifier in the shop and a couple of sticks of regular chalk in the tool cabinet and tool box, keeps the moisture down.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *What do you do with rust?*
> 
> Working in the shop today. Haven't done a glue up in awhile. Putting the bar clamps away I noticed pits and rust developing. The Harbor Freight are copies of The Jorgenson bar clamps, but they paint the ratchet bar. Guess what "lots of rust." Even the Jorgensons are pitted.
> 
> ...


David,

Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Murphy's telling me to do this! Screwed up again!*

Been rehabbing my office furniture for my little office. No money, just time. Got some advice from A1Jim as to how to go about finishing the piece. Don't have dyes, or money to buy it. Sanded out nicks and groves. Sealed the top. Didn't match the desk design. So I did a test piece of Rustolium espresso. Test board matched colors in desk.

Sprayed one coat on desk top. Neutral finish showing grain patterns! Success. Next day thought about two finishing options. Water bourn poly or the oil based stain I rubbed the rest of the desk with. Did the test piece. It had two coats of paint on sanded wood. It was good. I then started to rub it into one half of the desk top. Removed the finish!

I was thinking how many of you LJ's experienced this. Also was going to write a Murphy's Law blog, but Googled and found a great one by George Walker. 2010 from his Design Blog.

I thought I'd share it 
Murphy's laws of woodworking.

Many of these I have learned the hard way:
1. Off square parts will assemble for maximum ill effect.
2. Your workshop is never big enough.
3. The workshop of your dreams won't be big enough.
4. Mobile bases aren't mobile in seven inches of sawdust.
5. Plastic wood isn't.
6. A Safety guard hasn't been invented that can prevent stupid.
7. Sawdust coating the laundry basket usually precedes a storm.
8. Finding one of your good chisels in the kitchen junk drawer is another sign of an impending storm.
9. The ideal number of clamps is two more than you will ever own.
10. The ideal sized clamp is two inches longer than the one you are making do with.
11. It's time to sweep the shop floor when: 
1. You start losing tools bigger than a router.
2. The kids start digging tunnels and building forts.
3. You start bumping your head on the ceiling.
12. Amateur woodworkers don't have clocks in their workshops; professionals don't have enough time in theirs.
13. Hammering a bent nail into a board will not make it go away.
14. A tool tray at the back of your workbench was the original inspiration for the discovery of "Black holes" in the universe.
15. The original cost of a router is insignificant compared to what you will spend on router bits.
16. The amount of years spent woodworking is directly proportional to the amount of extra lights and outlets installed in the workshop.
17. Flying objects are never a good sign in the workshop.
18. Smoke is never a good sign in the workshop.
19. A popping sound when removing clamps is never a good sign in the workshop.
20. Re-attached fingers never work as well as original equipment.
21. Lumber always costs more than you planned.
22. You never have enough tools until you have at least three of everything.
23. "Natural material - no two are alike" means this wood is full of knots.
24. Your biggest goof will take place nearest the end of a project.
25. Experienced woodworkers still make mistakes; they are also more adept at hiding them.
26. All blueprints contain errors; it's your job to find them the hard way.
27. There are six different ways to solve any woodworking problem, and at least thirty six ways to flub it up.
28. Calling it a day after really screwing something up will not make it better in the morning.
29. A dull drill bit will not magically become sharp by throwing it back in a cigar box.
30. If you never scrap anything, you probably don't make anything either.
31. No one appreciates a door that closes smoothly, but even a moron will crab about one that sticks.

I've been compiling this list for some time. If you have any to add, I'd love to hear them.
George R. Walker

Please add your own!

Tom


----------



## Bricofleur (Aug 28, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Murphy's telling me to do this! Screwed up again!*
> 
> Been rehabbing my office furniture for my little office. No money, just time. Got some advice from A1Jim as to how to go about finishing the piece. Don't have dyes, or money to buy it. Sanded out nicks and groves. Sealed the top. Didn't match the desk design. So I did a test piece of Rustolium espresso. Test board matched colors in desk.
> 
> ...


Hillarious! Many thanks, Tom.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com


----------



## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Murphy's telling me to do this! Screwed up again!*
> 
> Been rehabbing my office furniture for my little office. No money, just time. Got some advice from A1Jim as to how to go about finishing the piece. Don't have dyes, or money to buy it. Sanded out nicks and groves. Sealed the top. Didn't match the desk design. So I did a test piece of Rustolium espresso. Test board matched colors in desk.
> 
> ...


That can be a big problem, especially in the winter time when stain doesn't fully dry overnight like we expect it to. Even in warmer temperatures, a wipe-on top coat will lift some of the stain off. 
I switched to spraying my topcoats, and it completely eliminates the problem.

Best of luck with your project.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Murphy's telling me to do this! Screwed up again!*
> 
> Been rehabbing my office furniture for my little office. No money, just time. Got some advice from A1Jim as to how to go about finishing the piece. Don't have dyes, or money to buy it. Sanded out nicks and groves. Sealed the top. Didn't match the desk design. So I did a test piece of Rustolium espresso. Test board matched colors in desk.
> 
> ...


Serge,, any thing to add? 

Willie, Many thanks for your input.


----------



## Woodbridge (Oct 12, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Murphy's telling me to do this! Screwed up again!*
> 
> Been rehabbing my office furniture for my little office. No money, just time. Got some advice from A1Jim as to how to go about finishing the piece. Don't have dyes, or money to buy it. Sanded out nicks and groves. Sealed the top. Didn't match the desk design. So I did a test piece of Rustolium espresso. Test board matched colors in desk.
> 
> ...


Not really a Murphy's law, perhaps more of an Irish prayer: "keep your tools sharp and your fingers clear".


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Murphy's telling me to do this! Screwed up again!*
> 
> Been rehabbing my office furniture for my little office. No money, just time. Got some advice from A1Jim as to how to go about finishing the piece. Don't have dyes, or money to buy it. Sanded out nicks and groves. Sealed the top. Didn't match the desk design. So I did a test piece of Rustolium espresso. Test board matched colors in desk.
> 
> ...


Peter,
I'm trying to figure how to do that one without Murphy! Not laughing!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Murphy's telling me to do this! Screwed up again!*
> 
> Been rehabbing my office furniture for my little office. No money, just time. Got some advice from A1Jim as to how to go about finishing the piece. Don't have dyes, or money to buy it. Sanded out nicks and groves. Sealed the top. Didn't match the desk design. So I did a test piece of Rustolium espresso. Test board matched colors in desk.
> 
> ...


This one works everywhere.

Figuring how long and how much it will take to get it done. Then multiplying it times three!


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Murphy's telling me to do this! Screwed up again!*
> 
> Been rehabbing my office furniture for my little office. No money, just time. Got some advice from A1Jim as to how to go about finishing the piece. Don't have dyes, or money to buy it. Sanded out nicks and groves. Sealed the top. Didn't match the desk design. So I did a test piece of Rustolium espresso. Test board matched colors in desk.
> 
> ...


If you have a 3/4 piece of wood and a 3/4 screw how come it always poles through the other side?


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Murphy's telling me to do this! Screwed up again!*
> 
> Been rehabbing my office furniture for my little office. No money, just time. Got some advice from A1Jim as to how to go about finishing the piece. Don't have dyes, or money to buy it. Sanded out nicks and groves. Sealed the top. Didn't match the desk design. So I did a test piece of Rustolium espresso. Test board matched colors in desk.
> 
> ...


LOL!


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Murphy's telling me to do this! Screwed up again!*
> 
> Been rehabbing my office furniture for my little office. No money, just time. Got some advice from A1Jim as to how to go about finishing the piece. Don't have dyes, or money to buy it. Sanded out nicks and groves. Sealed the top. Didn't match the desk design. So I did a test piece of Rustolium espresso. Test board matched colors in desk.
> 
> ...


You don't need the scraps you throw away until you throw it away.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Murphy's telling me to do this! Screwed up again!*
> 
> Been rehabbing my office furniture for my little office. No money, just time. Got some advice from A1Jim as to how to go about finishing the piece. Don't have dyes, or money to buy it. Sanded out nicks and groves. Sealed the top. Didn't match the desk design. So I did a test piece of Rustolium espresso. Test board matched colors in desk.
> 
> ...


Very True Monte, looked for some to hold a piece off the bench. "I know I have those somewhere?"


----------



## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Murphy's telling me to do this! Screwed up again!*
> 
> Been rehabbing my office furniture for my little office. No money, just time. Got some advice from A1Jim as to how to go about finishing the piece. Don't have dyes, or money to buy it. Sanded out nicks and groves. Sealed the top. Didn't match the desk design. So I did a test piece of Rustolium espresso. Test board matched colors in desk.
> 
> ...


After you install the 220 volt outlets for your saw in the middle of your shop where it will work best, you 
will get the biggest most beautiful piece of wood that has to be cut with the saw in the door of the shop
to provide clearance without ruining the wood. Do not ask me how I know.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Murphy's telling me to do this! Screwed up again!*
> 
> Been rehabbing my office furniture for my little office. No money, just time. Got some advice from A1Jim as to how to go about finishing the piece. Don't have dyes, or money to buy it. Sanded out nicks and groves. Sealed the top. Didn't match the desk design. So I did a test piece of Rustolium espresso. Test board matched colors in desk.
> 
> ...


Gus,

I made a 220 extension cord just because! LOL!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*2 steps forward and one step back.*

Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!

Had to take the sign down my wife and I made after receiving a letter from my recent employer about my signing a non compete agreement. Took it to an attorney, who gave me the pragmatic facts. Court filings take ninety days. The agreement is all in their favor. Bottom line is I've limited funds and few clients. The time limit is 6 months. Four to go.

The furniture I have been refurbishing and rehabbing is for my local office. It's taken longer than I expected because I do something right and then try something and screw it up. They call it "one trial learning." But I did the chair glue up today. Found one error compounded itself today in my final assembly. ( More learning?) I will not be designing any chairs in my future with 3/4 inch stringers! compound angles a definitly more critical with small pieces.

Found a Delta 18 inch scroll saw on Craig's list that I will be going to see on Saturday.

I drove through blizzard winds to purchase a real deal, A new 1.5 hp electric motor for a hundred bucks Lesson Farm grade. if you are interested send me a PM. Weighs 40 lbs and I have a UPS down the street.

I'm glad I have Charles Neil's "Chair making made simple" DVD or I'd be totally frustrated with all the compound angles in this chair.

Looks like I'll be finishing the chair and desk in the next week and I will post them as my LJ buddys have requested.

How's your shop work going?


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


I'm just working. .....on a shop. Hope to post about it this weekend. Hope your problems get cleared up. Keep on moving forward.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


Moving a little more forward than back.

Looking forward to what direction your shop takes.


----------



## kiefer (Feb 5, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


Oh those surprises and stumbles in life ,look at the bright side and keep on trucking .
I am working on a new workbench and vise and stay indoors most of the time as it is -30C outside but it sure get some stuff done in the shop .


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


Kiefer,

I am getting close to being done with it, LOL! Is the sybbol in your name Kanji. kana, or katakana?

Worst winter in 30 years.Itis nice to have heat in the shop.


----------



## longgone (May 5, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


Stuff always happens that gets in the way and problems come up…but staying busy and moving forward always keeps things moving in a positive direction. Chalk up all the roadblocks as experience and laugh at them.


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


I am beyond sick of winter. It's been many years since we've had this crappy of winter. So much to do and I can't do any of it.

so your no compete agreement, does it mean you can't work or just can't advertise? You must be very good if they were afraid that you could damage business that much.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


Greg,

Thanks you call it stuff I use the phrase Sh_T happens! I have more toilet paper than most.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


Monte,

Its a control issue. They used the excuse that I had customer complaints, rather than my age and adhd to "let me go."

The clients found me and asked me to open an office and then they accused me of soliciting there clients! As I said "no money." And few clients. So legal advice was do other things to build my business while waiting to put my sign up again.

I actually want people to get healthy. It requires learning skills just like my screw ups in the shop. LOL!

Thanks. Yep it's getting to be a big vacuum. LOL! The sun is shining and days are getting longer. Then it will turn 90 degrees!


----------



## JohnnyStrawberry (Jan 20, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


Gee, I don't believe this legal sh.taround…
Here is much warmer than there and even than here usually. The best timing for me.  
I've been upgrading my new shop for a few weeks now. I bought a garage and I don't have to use much often the electric heater. Pretty much insulated now though.
Doing metalwork lately. An inner security door(insulated), security ceiling(insulated), and some interesting lighting.  I may post those somehow.
I just finished the new lumber rack yesterday.


----------



## Woodbridge (Oct 12, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


Hi Tom, as I'm sure you know they are just bumps in the. I'm looking forward to your chair and desk posts.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


Johnny,

Thanks! You can post but just follow the posting rules. After all it is about your woodworking journey? Lots of LJ's posting on their shop development. Haven't seen a light fixture like that one in your shop.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


Peter,

Since reading and studying about woodworking I've been really impressed with chair complexity. Charles Neil did a great video explaining chair building and principals awhile back. Guess there wasn't a big demand, but I'm fortunate to have one. Thanks Charles!

I appreciate your support. Thanks! Sometimes the bumps can cause accidents?


----------



## Bluepine38 (Dec 14, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


Second Monte on the crappy winter. We get snow and it warms up and it is to sticky to ski on, great for
snowmen. We get snow and it drops below zero, get 4 days of skiing in over a 2 week period. Now we
have snow and blizzard conditions. My snow plow is mounted on a 1950 Craftsman lawn mower, it can
handle light snow, but not 6 to 12 inches, so I had to get the mail lady unstuck from my driveway. To
cold to ski, bit I am getting plenty of exercise shoveling snow. Supposed to snow and get colder tonight
and then next week it will be up in the high 30's, I might get in a few mornings skiing before it melts off.
Guess these weather swings are going to be a fact of life, so I will have to get used to them. Maybe next
week I will get some more shop time in.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


Gus,

Maybe during the really cold and grass growing time you could bore out the cylinders and get some bigger pistons? 

The woodtool man did a great video on a plywood sheet doubling as a snow plow. put it on the back of his van. If you have a straight piece of concrete it works great.


----------



## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


It's amazing how fast time flies by if you don't think about it… six months will be here and gone in no time. The whole deal must be frustrating, but at least you'll have time to finish off your furniture renovations before you find yourself snowed under with Clients!


----------



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *2 steps forward and one step back.*
> 
> Working in the shop. Realized I've been pretty quiet. LOL! Posted a blog on my buddy Murphy who joins me just when things look like they are going well. He probably takes instant trips everywhere? Like your shop? LOL!
> 
> ...


The only thing that's getting in my way and keeping me from the shop is this darn cold weather, us true blooded Texans are spoiled, don't like the cold.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*

Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"

Randy (Blackie) suggested a bucket and a couple of Gallons of cider vinegar to soak my clamps in that were rusting …just sitting around!

I thought I'd try regular white vinegar on my planes that I bought on Ebay as I had been sanding and rubbing with steel wool.

Took a zip lock plastic bag and put the plane irons and other rusted small parts like the chip breakers and adjusting screws covered the parts, squeezed the air out and put the bag in a plastic tray and covered it w/ another plastic bag to keep odor down.

IT WORKED! And it did a really good job. Put more plane parts in the bag for 24 hrs, and the vinegar is still doin its job. Had to use a little steel wool but SO Much Easier!

So I'm thanking Randy and sharing what works. Nice when it works!

Do you have any simple shop remedies to share?


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


I have used coke (the soda) for cleaning rust off items as well.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


Monte,

Staying warm? I have heard of that one, I think it has to do with citrus in the cola ( LOL!)


----------



## JohnnyStrawberry (Jan 20, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


I have another method… I use my clamps regularly.  LOL


----------



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


Thanks for the nice words and for the tip of the hat Tom, actually the apple cider vinegar is stronger then white vinegar and does a better job in de-rusting and cleaning, it can be found with the white vinegar on the shelves at the grocery store. As for as odor goes, you can just sit it all outside or in the garage and let it sit for a couple days.

Here is a video


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


Johnny! LOL! You are spot on with that comment. But we do have an issue around here with changing moisture conditions. I have two humidifiers going now, and it's still pretty dry. In the summer or rainy times the concrete will sweat. My old AC unit is not strong enough for the shop area. I bought some Bloe Shield (sp?) wich is supposed to be the best stuff. I blogged before about setting a jar on my perfect bandsaw, and made a rust spot because I left it there. I made a mistake when building of not sealing the floors. Might do that if you have concrete floors in your new shop.


----------



## JohnnyStrawberry (Jan 20, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


I knew I was being unfair, but twas worth the chuckling, wasn't it? :-D
You were spot on with yours, too. Life is even funnier than we can think of. LOL
The new shop does have concrete floor… Uneven, unlevel, unun, ununun… and it's sweating even in February…
I really don't know what I could do with the floor - within a reasonable budget. Maybe vinegar… LOL LOL LOL


----------



## hans2wiz (Jan 11, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


I have used apple cider with many rusted handplanes. Soak 1-2 days and even paint comes easier down. And this stuff is usable many-many times. But don't forget to clean all those parts with water and baking soda mix. It is like neutralizer.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


Molasses and water. Ten parts water and one part syrup. let the part sit a week.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


Johnny,

My hindsight, re: shop floors. I bought a sealer for concrete which is supposed to go into the voids and seal it. Water based. On another part of my shop, last room added and a recent build, I used 2 part epoxy paint. Also put it on a slab I poured on the outside. (always in the sun) The new room is doing well( the floor) while the outside slab pealed off. Would recomend you do this before putting your electrical or shop equipment in the space. Wish I had. :-(((

Don't know how how or wet it is there but I have a 140 year old house with sand stone walls, and a well (capped) near the house. I have two dehumidifiers running. Also if I can get the money, I plan to get a new more efficient air conditioner for the shop area.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


Hans,

Randy(Blackie) suggested a You Tube video about the apple cider. I understand about the baking soda for neutralization. Thanks, I will remember that. LOL!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


Dave,

When looking on that You Tube page I saw the molasses thing. Wonder if it would work straight up on surface rust on a vehicle or saw table? Thanks for the additional input!


----------



## JohnnyStrawberry (Jan 20, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


It's wet only around the doors. Thanks for the advice, I'll share the final solution when I get there.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


Doc I do believe it would.
But it would be a sticky mess.
I need to get me 5 gallons of this stuff and test it.
Just imagine a bucket you drop your rusty tools in. Come back a month later and there whistle clean and tasty to.


----------



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


I watched the video with using Molasses and water and both methods the one I suggested and the one David proposed seem to be about the same, I am curious though as to why the video showing the Molasses method had comments blocked? Also what is in Molasses that has the cleaning agent in it?


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


Me too, but I am a confirmed fan of cider vinegar Randy. Bought some for comparison. Cleaned imbedded rust off my current 18 inch scroll saw table rehab project and some serious rust on hand plane blades. I used paper towels soaked in the cider vinegar and a wet cloth on top. Didn't have a container that wide. Put it in heavy trash bag and in a room without traffic. Had to use a little rubbing, scrubbing and rinsing. Then some polishing compound and a coat of wax.

Metal is rust free but dull. Will be doing some extra fine sandpaper polishing later.

Thanks again.

Randy maybe Googling it will provide an answer?


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


FYI

http://www.homercidal.com/molasses/


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


Dave,

Been watching you as you come up on my smart tv at night when eating my dinner and watching some pretty smart dudes.

I don't smoke but I did add Captain Eddie to my watch list. Sharpening HHS chisels on my to do list.


----------



## superdav721 (Aug 16, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


Cap is one smart ole dude.
He is polite and stands by his product.
I put down the cigs Christmas. Pipe only now. You dont inhale it so at least I wont get lung cancer just mouth cancer.


----------



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Thank You Randy! (Blackie the bandsaw box maker)*
> 
> Just a quick thankyou for a suggestion given to me by Randy when a few blogs ago I asked "what do you do about rust?"
> 
> ...


Good to hear Thomas.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*

Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.

I have previously blogged about this trash or treasure saw and my process as well as getting help. Thanks for the support.

ArtistryinWox told me that he had put wheels on the Delta tri legged base, but had to remove them due to vibration. I need all of my shop equipment to be moveable, except my lathe.

Found some threaded casters for an excellent price w two day shipping. *LAST THREE!*

Working in the shop today, I found significant rust on the bottom of one leg. I was successful in getting it to base metal and even found I had a can of Rustolium to match! Another victory. Then I searched for nuts lock washers and washers. Again I was successful

After the paint dried, I attached the threaded castors which have locks and small wheels. The large thick washers should strengthen the connection.

Finished it and turned it upright. "Rolls nicely" I thought. Then I locked the wheels. LOL! although locked in position the castors swivel! and the shimmy that ArtistryinWox had described was visually very evident!

Back to the idea pool. Sigh!

Thought about this, and wondered about your experiences in having "A good Idea that wasn't a good idea."

Tom/aka/DocSavage45


----------



## DIYaholic (Jan 28, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


I had a good idea, once….
It died of loneliness!!!


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


I have several projects that will never be posted that fall in that category. That's all I am saying.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


gee thomas, right off the bat i cant think of any that went bad…nope not a one….lol, ive had a few, but im tired, long day, will get back to this tomorrow, for now…im just a humble woodworker who has had so many mistaken ideas, that its making me try harder to make sure i do better at having good ideas..


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Cowards! LOL!


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## NoThanks (Mar 19, 2014)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


I posted a thread about CC, good idea-gone bad!!!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Ya, found me! LOL! Thanks!


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## dawsonbob (Aug 5, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Today my good idea to get out of bed…wasn't a very good idea. As an old Elvis song said "Ya ever have one of them days, boys, ya ever have one of them days?" Simple things I've done a thousand times before aren't working for me today. I feel for you DocSavage45, I feel for ya.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Sometimes a nap can do wonders? Oh yeah I use the phrase…"Step away from the car sir!" Take a major time out then go back at it.


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## dawsonbob (Aug 5, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


I wholeheartedly agree, Doc: naps can do wonders. Right now I'm battling cancer, and some of the meds don't make things easier. Today I just reached a point where I realized that I was less than useless, so I quit for the day. Tomorrow's another day, and I'll attack it then.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Hey, it's a lot to deal with, Step at a time. I'm hoping for your best outcome.


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## dawsonbob (Aug 5, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Doc, but Ill be okay. I'm considering it an annoyance, more than anything. I'll kick it.


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## tyvekboy (Feb 24, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Doc

I put casters on my tri-legged Delta scroll saw and it doesnʻt do the shimmy shimmy. The reason is because I used locking swivel casters from Rockler. When you lock it, it also locks the swivel. For a light tool like a scroll saw the small one with the metal foot lock will do.

I even use these on my mobile base for my jointer as shown in my *UNIVERSAL POWER TOOL MOBILE BASE IDEA* project posting.

The link to all of Rocklerʻs locking swivel casters is here.

Hope this helps you and other LJʻs.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Tyvek Boy,

Yours is the threaded caster? @45 bucks a pair? I paid 75 for the Scroll saw. LOL! Thanks! They look hearty. Got to find a less expensive solution? Money, don't have any LOL!


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## tyvekboy (Feb 24, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Tom

I know itʻs expensive but you get what you pay for. I just thought Iʻd mention it cause it does solve the shimmy problem.

In my small shop mobility is important. Also, having all casters that swivel is important in small shops. I absolutely hate 2 fixed and 2 swivel casters on mobil tool carts. Itʻs hard to relocate castered tools.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


I appreciate it! Just got in from feeding my pride (Barn and outside kiddies) Looked at my shop fox bases, think I have a home made solution! Let ya know.

It's interesting, no one had any good ideas that weren't LOL!


----------



## TobiasZA (Mar 10, 2014)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


I have had many many ideas that were great in my head, but ended up complete screw-ups. I figure that they were only learning curves haha. I now tend more to making a prototype and/or drawings….this definitely helps me solve issues before I actually do the job for real. A case in point is my dust extraction system.

At the time I built it, nobody here in South Africa could point me in the right direction for the components, sure a bag blower system was available, but I wanted to do a full fitted dedicated system. In those days, the internet was still in its absolute infancy in SA, so one did things the old fashioned way: yellow pages, actually going out and talking to people face to face. Anyway, I had dismal results and was getting extremely frustrated. Then I happened to page through a Farmer's Weekly magazine at my dentist. Viola! I read an article on moving grain via air. My light bulb moment!! Here was a supplier that appeared to have everything I needed except the actual cyclone. I raced off to these guys, giving up my dentist's appointment and they were incredibly helpful. They supplied me with all my ducting, 45 degree T fittings, elbows etc. They said that if I designed the cyclone, they would manufacture it for me. The custom 3mm wall steel powdered coated cyclone cost me about $200.00 US. The system works very well and the supplier was more that willing to help me at every stage. Even to the point of him driving 160km to help me assemble and test on a Friday evening at no charge. The joiner between the cyclone and the drop box was the simplest problem to solve…....A wheelbarrow wheel's inner tube…

I guess what I am trying to say is that lots of drawings, talking to as many people as possible, and plenty of lateral thinking will solve most problems in the shop and save buckets of money.

Locking swivel castors only really work properly if the mechanism actually locks both the wheel and the swivel.
take care
Cheers
Tobias


----------



## TobiasZA (Mar 10, 2014)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Time to admit to my great idea that wasn't:................

When I built my bench, I was so engrossed in the strength, flatness, tail and head vise all wood designs, etc, etc…
I built my head vise on the wrong end of the bench. I am right handed and my vise setup is for a lefty!

Methinks a new bench will be on the new shop drawing board soon.

I hang my head in absolute shame. I BLAME THE COFFEE. 
Cheers
Tobias


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## JohnnyStrawberry (Jan 20, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Yeah Thomas, I see that too… LOL
So back to the main thread.
Like wiping off the spinning blade of the jointer? (I was in a hurry and using alternately the table saw and the jointer. DC was on and this jointer is quiet. Pure carelessness.) Needless to say *I don't work in a hurry anymore*.








Twentysome stitches as far as I could count when they removed'em… ouch…
Lesson learned. All in all I was very lucky. Could've been much much worse. I say it was a cheap lesson. Although I have a half numb thumb for life…
It may sound weird but I think it's good to have a major accident at the beginning of a woodworking journey because you get to respecting your power tools. Although it takes some courage to get back in the saddle…
Power tools are evil, right? hahahaha LOL LOL a few months later I chiseled something that I was holding in my left hand. Chisel slipped and poked the lower part of my left palm. It was a 1/4" chisel so it could go deep. Only one or two drops of blood but the deeper tissues came out a bit… Gee, that night I had probably the most intense pain in my life. Making a palm smoothie with the jointer was nothing compared to that little hole.
Got to respecting hand tools as well. Kinda immunized for both kinds of tools at the beginning. :-D
*My hands are NOT clamps.* Sometimes I still have to remind myself…
Sorry for the horrific post.
Shall I go on with wood based f..kups? LOL


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Tobias,

Great to hear about your success on the cyclone. I am practicing my woodworking Mantra, Practice, Patience, and Precision. Did you know that lefties use the other side of there brain? LOL! I built Frankenbench. Too high, to deep, and fixed to the wall. Nice storage space! LOL! Now when I screw up I tell myself…"step away from the car sir!"

I think I have a solution…May not work…LOL!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Johnny,

There is a behavioral definition of intelligence. "One trial learning." LOL! In my case I have to remember what I have learned. Clamps are my friend! I've a slightly crooked ring finger fro holdin a small piece of wood in my hand cutting it on my compound miter saw? Pain is a great teacher!


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


ive done things like what is being said here, but so far i've been lucky, my fingers are all here, there straight and they still work, i've had ideas that have gone wrong and luckily i was standing to the side of my big table saw when the small piece i was trying to cut did the back fire thing, one time one hit me, i had a huge bruise on my gut, luckily it was blunt, or i would have had a good size impalement..i just keep pushing along, singing my woodworking song, hoping all will be good, i'm into my 20th year of making things, im sure there will be bad ideas here and there, but if i live through them, ill keep trying..


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Bob,

Hoping that you make another 20.


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


Hey doc, can't I put my ex wife in this conversation?


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Have you ever had a good idea that wasn't a good idea?*
> 
> Out in the shop today, and I was not screwing anything up! Yeah ! I'm working on an *old* Delta 18 inch C Arm type one Scroll Saw. I have contacted two LJ scrollers here for advice , "*ArtistryinWox*" and "*Verne Bueler*" have been ever so helpful.
> 
> ...


LOL! You guys are taking this someplace I never thought of. Snowing here. Again! How is your shop progressing?


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Good Ideas that aren't , more......*

Hey LJ's,

Been awhile since posting as I have been finishing up my house windows rehab for my second story for my 140 year old house.

I'm re purposing one section of my shop bench into a hybrid wood workers ( in my case wood-butcher's) bench. My plan was to make it mobile as my shop is getting smaller and smaller. Where did these big tools come from? Oh yeah I finally assembled them, and I purchased a used cabinet saw.

The bench is to be mobile as are most of the other shop equipment to facilitate set up for different projects.

The woodworking stores sell a wood bench wheels set to put on the legs, but they aren't cheap and I was trying to do this without spending any more money. I'd purchased some locking casters (wheel and pivot) that have a stem to bolt onto metal stands. ( Initially for my Delta Scroll saw Rehab) The castors are well made ( 4" and @ 400 pounds load,or less) Figured I'd use star nuts as I did for my rehabbed office chair. Have you tried to find 1/2 inch star nuts? Not at my Farm&Fleet Ace which had a wide assortment, and not on Amazon.

An Ebay seller "Handtrucksandcastors" was really prompt, and professional, with tracking and notification in getting the star nuts to me. I'd use them again.

The bench legs are 2×4's with a 2×6 brace. The star nuts wouldn't screw easily onto the threaded shaft of the castor which required some threading. Using my small sledge hammer to anchor the star nuts I was able to get them set and I got the castors screwed in. All good, right?

I'm doing this with legs in the air with bench being built upside down on saw horses. The bench has become heavy due to reinforcements added to the table top for bench dogs. My wife helped to right the bench and took some pictures for my story of my successful bench build.

The castors were too high and too flimsy only having about 3/4 of an inch in the star nut holding the bench which wobbled! Great for hand planing. Right!

Tilted the bench on it's side and with a few taps removed my great idea.

Going out to the shop to mount the big Jorgenson vise and do some shiming for the legs on my "non mobile" bench.

Comments welcome. :<)


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## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


We've all had some of "those " ideas. They become funny stories that we tell our children.

You continue to make great progress though. Keep it up.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


Thanks Monte,

You're always supportive! I would say making 2 steps forward and one step back. LOL!


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## Ocelot (Mar 6, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


I have ordered from the same seller. I was satisfied with the castors I received - although they are apparently quite different from what you have. I mounted my lumber rack on 12 1200lb castors. It seems quite stable.

These were the 6" steel wheels on ball bearing plates.

Here's the lumber rack project.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/92622

I would think for a bench, you would need some mechanism to put down feet an left the castors off the floor while working.


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## ejvc (Jan 12, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


Well - at least you didn't break it while you were making your clever mistakes. I'm sure you will figure out a way.

Thanks for all your comments over on my blog.


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## JohnnyStrawberry (Jan 20, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


Good to read your progress. I hope you'll post that bench as a project. ;-)
Last year I made a heavy duty shop cart with three casters… It was super-tippy. Well, learned that. Added the fourth caster later.
Shipwright used a very clever caster allocation you may consider:


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


Ocelot,

Looks like your lumber rack is as large as your garage doors! LOL! Thanks for your comment!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


ejvc,

Going to step back. Get some money and figure out hopefully an economic solution, and smaller wheels. LOL!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


Johnny,

Looks like your base is metal? My wheels were too high( although commercial) and my post on the castor too short. Might make a little platform to put under it like a mechanics creeper. Just a thought. Thanks for you comments. How's the baby situation? :<)

Yes Shipwright did make the suggestion on a previous question. I'm going to have to look into that. Back to finishing the vise mounting.


----------



## JohnnyStrawberry (Jan 20, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


Mine's spruce. It has 36 screws (5/16" x 8") though… The only pic I have right now is this: LOL








Mama's happy, baby's happy so papa's happy, too.  Haven't been in the shop lately though. :-/


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## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


Hi Tom, I had a similar problem, with my old Bench in Spain, I overcame this, by cutting the legs off my bench by the height of the castors.

I attached locking casters to one end, having bolted a 3"x 3" which acted both as a leg brace and support for the castors.

To stop the table wandering, at the other end I put a 3"x 3" leg brace, and attached another underneath to bring it to the same height as the castors which by luck were also 3".

I then mounted a section of broom handle, mounted between two sections of 2"x 4" bolted to the legs (at the non-castor end) to make it easier to move the bench.

As long as I remembered to unlock the castors before trying to move it, I had no problems…lol

Good Luck!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


Johnny,

I reassembled mine with the screws I had used to build the old bench. Didn't count. Used some glue to attach 2×8's to the underside of the 3/4 inch plywood top. My original bench is built with a frame similar to a deck or torsion box. Didn't want to buy new materials to make a more traditional bench. Maybe later, but my wife would like me to make some furniture. LOL!

Nice pile of wood!


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


Phil,

I have some similar thoughts though it might be awhile as the castors were too high and not enough shaft for stability. My wallet is empty as well.

If my practice gets a few new clients I might be ableto consider options. Right now it's going to be a heavy"fixed" bench! LOL!


----------



## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


Can't wait to see the final outcome Tom


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Good Ideas that aren't , more......*
> 
> Hey LJ's,
> 
> ...


Randy,

Thanks for checking in. Only had a couple of comments on that &**^%% scroll saw. My $199 dollar vise started rusting! I have pictures but haven't posted. Works for me..functional. wheels idea had problems. Had to move on quickly to making a wooden awning to cover my inexpensive AC unit, with a poor lover design, that is in my shop window.

Then the upstairs commode started leaking down the wall. I'm doing the floor to open it up for the plumber on Monday as I did what I can do but it needs a professional fix. Cast Iron flange is broke.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Spaulting of Walnut?*

Don't know if this should be a forum topic or a blog. But here it goes.

Although I shouldn't have. I purchased a chain saw and a mill. Have yet to use it. Planning on harvesting wood from our compost site in town.

I have two lofty Walnut trees. It sloughs off non functional life generating branches.

My neighbor wanted to cut a lower horizontal limb not yet dropped by the tree. I had been planning to do this in practice. But he wanted to get his new recreational mobile home past it. It's done and I was thinking?

"We spault Maple and lighter woods, can we spault Walnut?"

I'm researching this so I though "ask my fellow LJ's advise?"

Has anyone knowledge about this they'd like to share?

Thanks

Tom


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Spaulting of Walnut?*
> 
> Don't know if this should be a forum topic or a blog. But here it goes.
> 
> ...


hey tom, i think i have heard of spalted walnut but i dont know , ill do some reasearch myself…how big around is the branch


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Spaulting of Walnut?*
> 
> Don't know if this should be a forum topic or a blog. But here it goes.
> 
> ...


Bob,

Not too big, maybe 8 inches at the trunk?

Did you ever get my direct email? I was just seeing how you are doing and updating on my practical maintenance stuff. Just finished the upstairs toilet repair. OH what fun!

I did a Google search and found nothing.

Thanks


----------



## decoustudio (May 4, 2006)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Spaulting of Walnut?*
> 
> Don't know if this should be a forum topic or a blog. But here it goes.
> 
> ...


I find spalted sap wood on Walnut from time to time. The spalting is a mold or mildew creature of some sort, and I am thinking that the tannin is too high in the heart wood for their growth, and I think that is why I've never seen it in anything other than the white-ish sap wood.


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Spaulting of Walnut?*
> 
> Don't know if this should be a forum topic or a blog. But here it goes.
> 
> ...


Mark,

I was thinking across those lines regarding Walnut's self protection, but I did see where someone posted a spalted Walnut bowl they turned. Only I didn't see the bowel. LOL!

Thanks!

Guess I don't know how to spell Spalted? LOL!


----------



## mojapitt (Dec 31, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Spaulting of Walnut?*
> 
> Don't know if this should be a forum topic or a blog. But here it goes.
> 
> ...


Darker woods spalt just like the lighter wood. It's just harder to see. Spalting is the early stages of rot.so unless you have a wood that doesn't rot, all of them will do it.


----------



## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Spaulting of Walnut?*
> 
> Don't know if this should be a forum topic or a blog. But here it goes.
> 
> ...


from what i have read, it looks like trying to spalt walnut is a hard thing to do, and as mark has said, it does show uo in the sapwood, but its just nat an easy wood to see spalting in, ive had some beautiful pecan and oak with beautiful spalting, but ive never really seen any in walnut…i would say do some experiment on the walnut you have and see what you get, just do a small piece, like 3 feet or so..


----------



## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Me and Murphy figuring out how to sharpen my plane blades!*

Murphy and I have been rehabbing planes and now attempting to sharpen the plane blades.

Watched Stumpy Nubbs video on Scarey Sharp. Good basic stuff but no advice when Murphy decides to get involved. LOL! I've checked out Paul Sellers and his YouTube videos on sharpening. I Have a Work sharp. Had it since they first came out. almost wore it out sharpening chisels for two days!

One of the planes I've been rehabbing is my dad's old number six. And the width of the blade is 2.5 inches. The WorkSharp only goes to 2 inches!

Set up the "Scary sharp" method to get the #6 blade together. The edge was seriously out of true. Watched Paul Use sandpaper and plate glass and some of it was Emory paper. Used spray adhesive and mounted different grits and types of sandpaper. Went from 60 grit to 600 on some Emory. About 2 hours later I was not happy and quit as Murphy was in charge.

The following day I set up my Porter Cable 8 inch grinder. Followed YouTube recommendations as well as a good PDF on balancing the wheels from Google search. Even took off the Chinese wheels that came with it and put on a Norton Stone. The grinder and the wheel were in the box from the previous October. Shims didn't work. I ground down the washers ment to hold the wheels per a suggestion that made sense. Ended up having one of the Chinese wheels being the most stable. and shimmed the Norton Stone the best I could.

Got a Grizzly Protractor from Santa. Extremely helpful in trying to come up with 25 degrees for the plane blades. I sharpened them free hand with the Chinese stone. Angle good! but not exactly square? *Damn you Murphy!*

I'm getting there. I'm better with the Porter Cable grinder than with the Scarey sharp using my honing guide. Even made a stop block so it would go smoothly….LOL!

I've watched Paul Sellers and I'm not a guy with 50 years experience from apprentice to master woodworker, but I'm inching forward..

Any suggestions and comments are welcome!

Happy New Year!

Me and Murphy


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Me and Murphy figuring out how to sharpen my plane blades!*
> 
> Murphy and I have been rehabbing planes and now attempting to sharpen the plane blades.
> 
> ...


Hey Tom
Do you have an angle guide for the scary sharp method.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=33001&cat=1,43072,43078


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## Woodbridge (Oct 12, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Me and Murphy figuring out how to sharpen my plane blades!*
> 
> Murphy and I have been rehabbing planes and now attempting to sharpen the plane blades.
> 
> ...


A couple of suggestions.

There is no end to the number of sharpening systems you can use and of course all the paraphernalia you can buy to go with it. Chris Schwarz recommends that you try a sharpening method and stick with it for at least a year before switching. It gives you time to practice and develop some proficiency with the method you are using and will be less expensive in the long run.

That said some other resources to consider re plane blade sharpening are a couple of Lie Nielsen vdieos and another by Rob Cosman who does a good job demystifying sharpening.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Me and Murphy figuring out how to sharpen my plane blades!*
> 
> Murphy and I have been rehabbing planes and now attempting to sharpen the plane blades.
> 
> ...


Jim.

I have a honing guide and I built the stop block. Didn't post any pictures but I will when and if I get some of the planes back together. And my new protractor lets me know how far off I am. LOL!
Thanks!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Me and Murphy figuring out how to sharpen my plane blades!*
> 
> Murphy and I have been rehabbing planes and now attempting to sharpen the plane blades.
> 
> ...


Peter,

Didn't give Rob credit here. He is like Paul Sellers. LOL! I know I have to practice to get it right. Just looks easier when they do it?

Thanks!


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## Lsmart (Jan 1, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Me and Murphy figuring out how to sharpen my plane blades!*
> 
> Murphy and I have been rehabbing planes and now attempting to sharpen the plane blades.
> 
> ...


I have a Worksharp, if you make a table for it you can use your honing guide on top. Stumpy has a good one. Mine is here: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/78696

For all that I have found that once my blades are sharp the first time I tend to hone them freehand on a 8000 grit water stone. I was always afraid of freehand but it really only takes a little care and practice and it is so much faster. It was actually being too lazy to set my plane irons in my honing guide that started me honing freehand.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *

*Dancing because I made a JIG!*
*
I want to give credit to Randy/a.k.a. "Blackie," Gary Fixler from whom Randy developed his band saw jig, and Gordon Rock who provided a YouTube video showing how to make a band saw jig*.

I adapted what I saw, especially from Randy's blog, which included his outfeed tables and supports for the jig itself.
Randy used furniture grade plywood to make his jig. I used material acquired over many years looking for purpose in my shop. I had fir plywood three-quarter inch that did not get used for what it was intended, my shop floor.

Picture one.
The base for the sliding mount. I cut a T track and half and inserted it into routed slots that I made with my plunge router.









Picture two
The sliding mount is made from tempered hardboard, which was scavenged from the garage door that on my old barn. The triangle supports were adapted From Gordon Rock. All components were glued and screwed.










Picture three
The assembled jig which received one coat of Seal Coat and two coats of waterborne polyurethane.










Picture four.
Outfeed table and support legs with routed three-quarter inch slot to facilitate the guide rail on the bottom of the jig.










Picture five.
Giving all assembled pieces a coat of seal coat and waterborne poly.










Picture six.
The jig sealant finished and given a coat of paint, ready to go.










Picture seven and eight.
Assembled support table, outfeed table, and jig ready for test run.



















Picture nine
re-sawing test of 8 inch Walnut about 32 inches.









Picture 10 and 11.
re-sawing a 12" x 34" spalted Maple log ,that had been sitting, waiting in my yard for several years.
What is exciting about this is seeing what comes out of these small logs that I've acquired.



















*I've learned many things by watching YouTube, learning from fellow lumberjock's, and making mistakes while building this project. Special thanks to the education I received from my fellow lumberjock's particularly AHUXLEY and BLACKIE/Randy about bandsaw blades and their use on a 14 inch bandsaw with the riser.

Your comments are welcome as well is your humor and I appreciate you looking at my next evolutionary step in woodworking.*

Tom Tieffenbacher/a.k.a. Doc Savage 45


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## a1Jim (Aug 9, 2008)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Looks great Tom ,plus it works so well too.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Thanks Jim!

Now I hope to get all those darn logs milled or gone.


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## longgone (May 5, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Looks good Tom…! building a useful jig is every bit as much fun as building any project.
Those spalted maple boards you released are gonna make one mighty fine project…whatever it might be.
Have Fun…!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Greg,

Thanks for checking in!

Getting some 5/8ths blades for re sawing as the wood was moist? Going to build a veneering jig that charles Neil demonstrates,

And a spline jig for box building.

Not sure how spalted would look sculpted?


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## Blackie_ (Jul 10, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Tom, all of your pictures get my stamp of approval  thanks for the tip of the hat, goes to show that I too have learned a great meany things from YouTube and fellow members here on LJ's.

Another suggestion would be to paste wax your table top, miter slot and the bottom of both halves of the two part sled so that everything slides smooth.

Now comes the hard part, where to get the logs to cut from and you have to be careful as some of those logs can be very heavy, the max given length log I will cut on my sled is 24" most are smaller then that though.

I've also found that what works best for me is slicing the logs into 1 1/8" - 1 1/2" slices saves me time then off to the air dry they go, when it's time to make boxes from them I re- slice them then to the thickness I need using my carter stabilizer still attached to the saw with a 3 or sometimes 10 tpi 1/4" blade.

When cutting logs into slices I'm using the guides with an 1/2" 3 tpi blade removing the carter stabilizer.


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## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


I seem to remember a certain person commenting on another post about photos being the right way up ha








now I'll have to get the crick out of my neck  Nice job Tom I'm glad it worked out after all your planning!


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


If you have ANY blade questions (green vs dry woods, very hard vs soft) give Timberwolf a call. They have been a good resource for me in selecting the right blade for the job.


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## Bricofleur (Aug 28, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Great band saw jig, Tom. I'm keeping it in mind since I should be very handy and flawless to use (favorited). Thanks for posting.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


alright…big congrats on this jig, this will let you mill some beautiful wood, i love that spalted maple…now lets see what you will do with it…do you have any plans yet for the maple….good job on the jig, will like to see some walnut done with it….


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Randy,

Thanks for all you help through examples and advice. Still tweeking my support and outfeed tables. After the first test cut. I put graded half inch markings on the jig base.

I will be using my chain saw mill for milling larger logs. Thought about dimensions for primary cuts. Thanks for additional suggestions.

learning as I go. My lower back is yelling at me today! LOL!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Serge,

Thanks! Handy yes. Flawless???? LOL! I built it, and Murphy helped all he could. :<)


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Bob/Grizz,

Thanks! Big step forward for me. My first practice cutting was with the fresh walnut. The laying down picture, which I righted in my Picasa softwar, but apparently didn't take is a walnut piece. I cut some ceder, walnut and the maple for tests.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Andy,

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm going to try the AHUXLEY suggestions due to the supplier being local (Saint Cloud, MN) and his comprehensive reply to my Forum Topic was quite an education on blades. Another reason, blades are less expensive, and "I ain't got no money." The blades maker is the same one I use in my sawsall.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Phil,

Me too! I righted all pictures before I saved them in Picasa. They get saved to the c drive under pictures. tried twice to correct it but it got late. Thanks!

Still got my chainsaw mill to challenge the woosie in me.


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## Woodbridge (Oct 12, 2011)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Tom, it looks like your jig works really well. Those are some nice pieces of spalted maple


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Peter,

Thanks! Now to really learn how to use it.


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## robscastle (May 13, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Well the jig works OK and the timber is exceptionally nice.

Did your band saw fall over?

Did you know what it was going to be like before you cut it?

I hope you make a project from it before its "Gone"

It would not be going anywhere if it were mine! and I would be hiding it from "Friends" as well !!


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## CharlieK (Jan 6, 2008)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Hi Tom,

The jig is great and those boards are beautiful!

No wonder you are dancing, I would be too.
Charlie


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Rob,

LOL! If you read the thread I explained the picture, even though I have complained to others. Ask Phil.

Regarding the Maple I did expect spalting but I also though it might be crap? Then off to the compost site!

I have about six small logs of maple. Should be interesting?


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Charlie,

Thanks, maybe I'll get something together by next April for Northern Woods. LOL!


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## benjireyes (Dec 21, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Nicely done Tom! This surely will get your hands on a lot of beautiful free wood. Take it easy on the lifting though. Would love to work on that spalted maple.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *Dancing because I made a JIG! Re sawing set up for my band saw *
> 
> *Dancing because I made a JIG!*
> *
> ...


Benji,

Thanks for checking it out! I'd probably trade for your common woods down there . LOL!


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

*An Oh Dah Moment*

Recently, As many of you may remember. LOL! I have built a band saw support jig for resawing small logs on my band saw. I have been struggling to get the widest blade on my GO555 14 inch Grizzly with riser. Ordered a 5/8 th Woodmiser clone 3 tpi and I am still trying to get 3 good blades from the company.










Went to my "go to" Olson Blades and purchased a 5/8ths that works with no problems. *I know it's not my saw*.

I also did a blog on a ruff cutting straight edge jig that I made out of the shop materials on hand. My original plan had 6 inch wooden hold downs, which proved too short for some narrowing pieces of spalted maple. Corrected that by making 11 inch hold downs that have great holding power with only wing nuts. Some of my fellow LJ's suggested making knobs and suggested different inovations. All good.

Had a couple hours to mill some of my additional logs that I am gathering out of my yard. They've been waiting as much as 5 years???? LOL!

Working easy breezy, and no Murphy in sight! I had actually resawn a 12 inch by 32 inch log on the Band saw. ( Proud of that one!) It was time to put a straight edge on the slabs in the flitch.

*Then Murphy returned! "Son of a ( you fill in the blank) !"*

I had trimmed both edges of my straight edge jig so the center was equal to both edges of the jig. Not enough depth and I cannot move the anchor bolts back as I was planning because they would have no place to stay.










*Now I have to build another version. But the side away from the miter slot has to be wider to accommodate 11 inch or wider slabs.*

*Just another "oh Dah," moment!*

*As always comments of humor and edification, or stopping by are welcome!*


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## doubleDD (Oct 21, 2012)

DocSavage45 said:


> *An Oh Dah Moment*
> 
> Recently, As many of you may remember. LOL! I have built a band saw support jig for resawing small logs on my band saw. I have been struggling to get the widest blade on my GO555 14 inch Grizzly with riser. Ordered a 5/8 th Woodmiser clone 3 tpi and I am still trying to get 3 good blades from the company.
> 
> ...


If I understand this correctly, once you have one side straight go ahead and use the table saw with your fence to make your second cut.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *An Oh Dah Moment*
> 
> Recently, As many of you may remember. LOL! I have built a band saw support jig for resawing small logs on my band saw. I have been struggling to get the widest blade on my GO555 14 inch Grizzly with riser. Ordered a 5/8 th Woodmiser clone 3 tpi and I am still trying to get 3 good blades from the company.
> 
> ...


Dave,

You got it! Just have to get that one side? LOL! Some folks use a jig they run against the fence. I feel that's to dangerous for ADHD guys like me.


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## BigAl98 (Jan 29, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *An Oh Dah Moment*
> 
> Recently, As many of you may remember. LOL! I have built a band saw support jig for resawing small logs on my band saw. I have been struggling to get the widest blade on my GO555 14 inch Grizzly with riser. Ordered a 5/8 th Woodmiser clone 3 tpi and I am still trying to get 3 good blades from the company.
> 
> ...


Why screw the slab to a plywood sled and cut a straight edge.


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *An Oh Dah Moment*
> 
> Recently, As many of you may remember. LOL! I have built a band saw support jig for resawing small logs on my band saw. I have been struggling to get the widest blade on my GO555 14 inch Grizzly with riser. Ordered a 5/8 th Woodmiser clone 3 tpi and I am still trying to get 3 good blades from the company.
> 
> ...


Al,

Great idea!


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## grizzman (May 10, 2009)

DocSavage45 said:


> *An Oh Dah Moment*
> 
> Recently, As many of you may remember. LOL! I have built a band saw support jig for resawing small logs on my band saw. I have been struggling to get the widest blade on my GO555 14 inch Grizzly with riser. Ordered a 5/8 th Woodmiser clone 3 tpi and I am still trying to get 3 good blades from the company.
> 
> ...


well you know what tom, i was looking to see if our old friend murphy was going to make a showing, but i guess he likes you best, it must be my deodarant…mouth wash , something…i just cant get him to leave your area, you must be doing something pretty special, i would like a picture of you and ole murph, arms around your shoulders…giving each other a great big hug…LOL…make sure you show them pearly white's…


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *An Oh Dah Moment*
> 
> Recently, As many of you may remember. LOL! I have built a band saw support jig for resawing small logs on my band saw. I have been struggling to get the widest blade on my GO555 14 inch Grizzly with riser. Ordered a 5/8 th Woodmiser clone 3 tpi and I am still trying to get 3 good blades from the company.
> 
> ...


Bob,

I don't think Murphy is"that kind of guy." More stealthy and mysterious, like moving your tools to a place you know you wouldn't have set them. Or that silence when you thought you heard someone laughing as you left your shop for the day?

LOL!

I'm still waiting for the dentist to come up with my pearly whites.


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## PhilBello (Jan 5, 2013)

DocSavage45 said:


> *An Oh Dah Moment*
> 
> Recently, As many of you may remember. LOL! I have built a band saw support jig for resawing small logs on my band saw. I have been struggling to get the widest blade on my GO555 14 inch Grizzly with riser. Ordered a 5/8 th Woodmiser clone 3 tpi and I am still trying to get 3 good blades from the company.
> 
> ...


At least whilst Murphy is with you, he is leaving me alone…lol


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## DocSavage45 (Aug 14, 2010)

DocSavage45 said:


> *An Oh Dah Moment*
> 
> Recently, As many of you may remember. LOL! I have built a band saw support jig for resawing small logs on my band saw. I have been struggling to get the widest blade on my GO555 14 inch Grizzly with riser. Ordered a 5/8 th Woodmiser clone 3 tpi and I am still trying to get 3 good blades from the company.
> 
> ...


Maybe it's his evil south american twin that's with you?

LOL!

Thanks for checking in.


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