# Glue joint perfection



## Sirgreggins (Apr 12, 2012)

I'm about to make my first end grain cutting board and have upgraded my craftsman 113 with a vega fence. I'm going to buy a glue line rip blade but I don't know what the difference beteween the freud lu74r010 and freud lu75r010 is. Does anyone know? Also I just got an eagle America shearing bit for additional glue joit cleanup if necessary. Hopefully the saw blade alone will be enough. Should I go with 24 or 30 teeth. The board will be 8/4 maple and purpleheart. Sorry for the multi question post but….


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## TCCcabinetmaker (Dec 14, 2011)

you will most likely have to sand the pieces anyways so…


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## Grandpa (Jan 28, 2011)

one is an 80 tooth narrow kerf made for cut off and the other is a 50? tooth glue line If you have internet, and I suppose you do since you are here, look them up and they have pics and specs.


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## Loren (May 30, 2008)

Sometimes because of the nature of the work, time
constraints and so forth, ripping glue joints is
a good approach. For stair treads, go for it - 
it saves a lot of time. For coopered work, again, 
it saves a lot of time and helps produce consistent
parts, even if the joints are not jointed.

In general woodworking however, if you want to
minimize your glue lines you're going to need 
to prep the joints in another way after ripping
and prior to gluing.

A "sanding board" is very cheap to make (a belt
sander belt cut and glued to a flat board). You
can rub work back and forth on the sanding
board and remove saw marks and distortions.

It is like a very poor man's edge sander.


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## Sirgreggins (Apr 12, 2012)

I like your sanding idea Loren. I dont know why i didnt think of that. I have one made for jointing the tops/backs for my acoustic guitars


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