# Garage Remodel



## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*cutting into drywall for romex path*

well, i jotted down what i need to do in my garage in order to i know what needs to get down. I was starting to get overwhelmed with everything. so much to do in this garage as it presently is bare bones drywall and structure lumber. and thought it would clear my mind knowing what order to do what. I removed the finished ceiling to get access to rafters for some projects last year. Of course now, I realized i should not of done that, but oh well… will give me practice on installing fire rated gypsum drywall. But before I install the drywall:

1.) add 2×4 bracing for 5 locations in ceiling for ceiling access hatches (future wire pulls, maintenance, etc).
2.) run voice / data (all with be CAT6 as that is my day job) / audio and video / coaxial / and alarm wire where needed.
3.) cut 8" path 56"-64" in wall drywall high off ground for romex wiring. i already have 250' of romex 12/2 and blue electrical boxes to cover 110v and 220v outlets. I just "might" look into getting some short pieces of 12/3 for the 220v just to make the color coding 100% idiot proof. I know I must cut holes more than 1 1/2" to the rear in the studs, for code.
4.) install sub-panel 100amp (luckily, it will be 12" from main panel in opposite facing wall) and lighting.
5.) blow in cellulose insulation in side walls
6.) i have existing R-19 insulation roll batts in my roof rafters that i will remove and staple to the joists instead (this was one of my biggy mistakes).
7.) install fire rated drywall, per code (i DO need somewhat of a proper firebreak between garage and house after all).

so today… i started on #3. removed 8" path in the drywall. sometime this week after i talk to building inspectors, i'll drill the holes and run romex to where i'll put 110v and 220v. the end result will be some 10" or 12" hardwood covering the 8" path, or something else will come to mind. this was VERY nice to do as now i know exactly where my oddly spaced studs are! i thought my stud-finder was crazy, but now i see this is not just some standard 16" OC layout. some double 2×4's, the electrical cavity, the black gas pipe cavity, etc. it made stud layout unorthodoxed.

I do watch tons of wood working videos and i do check out other garage and workshops. I'm tired of being em·bar·rassed by how sickly, under powered, cluttered, and dysfunctional my garage workshop is.


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *cutting into drywall for romex path*
> 
> well, i jotted down what i need to do in my garage in order to i know what needs to get down. I was starting to get overwhelmed with everything. so much to do in this garage as it presently is bare bones drywall and structure lumber. and thought it would clear my mind knowing what order to do what. I removed the finished ceiling to get access to rafters for some projects last year. Of course now, I realized i should not of done that, but oh well… will give me practice on installing fire rated gypsum drywall. But before I install the drywall:
> 
> ...


I hate to tell you this, but you could of saved yourself some time if you would of not cut the sheetrock out and just run conduit and boxes ontop of the sheetrock. That way if you ever wanted to change something out, or add to a circuit it would be accessible and easy.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *cutting into drywall for romex path*
> 
> well, i jotted down what i need to do in my garage in order to i know what needs to get down. I was starting to get overwhelmed with everything. so much to do in this garage as it presently is bare bones drywall and structure lumber. and thought it would clear my mind knowing what order to do what. I removed the finished ceiling to get access to rafters for some projects last year. Of course now, I realized i should not of done that, but oh well… will give me practice on installing fire rated gypsum drywall. But before I install the drywall:
> 
> ...


i considered doing just that.
but i bought 250' of 12/2 romex and 20 double gang blue boxes for $20 at an auction.
you can not run romex in a conduit  not code.
and if i ever want to change something out, i can remove the 12" covering i have in mind for easy access (i'll be doing them in sections just for that purpose).

but yes… my first plan was to do surface mount conduit. but since it is cheaper to go this route…  it's more practical in my situation. besides… i REALLY needed to figure out the stud spacing!


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## History (Dec 22, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *cutting into drywall for romex path*
> 
> well, i jotted down what i need to do in my garage in order to i know what needs to get down. I was starting to get overwhelmed with everything. so much to do in this garage as it presently is bare bones drywall and structure lumber. and thought it would clear my mind knowing what order to do what. I removed the finished ceiling to get access to rafters for some projects last year. Of course now, I realized i should not of done that, but oh well… will give me practice on installing fire rated gypsum drywall. But before I install the drywall:
> 
> ...


Ok, sounds like you have a plan. Nevermind.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *cutting into drywall for romex path*
> 
> well, i jotted down what i need to do in my garage in order to i know what needs to get down. I was starting to get overwhelmed with everything. so much to do in this garage as it presently is bare bones drywall and structure lumber. and thought it would clear my mind knowing what order to do what. I removed the finished ceiling to get access to rafters for some projects last year. Of course now, I realized i should not of done that, but oh well… will give me practice on installing fire rated gypsum drywall. But before I install the drywall:
> 
> ...


That's a no brainer, but a lot of us like clean and crisp (i.e., hidden behind the walls).

I think he showed having paid attention to details. Others might have ripped out more rock than they needed to remove.



> I hate to tell you this, but you could of saved yourself some time if you would of not cut the sheetrock out and just run conduit and boxes ontop of the sheetrock. That way if you ever wanted to change something out, or add to a circuit it would be accessible and easy.
> 
> - History


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*starting permit process*

I'll share this blog going from start to finish. The purpose of this blog is to show other's who need to understand the process of getting *permits *to add electrical sub-panels, 110v and 220v outlets and lights, install a natural gas fired hanging furnace (mine is a Reznor UDAP 60k btu). I want to go the correct way to do things by code to appease insurance agents and re-selling agents in the future.

Yesterday (sunday 3-4-13), I needed to know the options to run my electrical: on the wall conduit, or internal thru studs. I picked up 250' 12/2 romex and plenty of blue boxes at an auction, I wanted to see if a pathway thru studs would work as this would be the very economical solution in my situation. The major gripe about thru studs is no future work or edits. The major gripe about on the wall conduit is not code to use romex, visible, obstructions on wall itself, and spendy for all the parts. So i was thinking of running the 12/2 (possibly 12/3 for 220v outlets) thru the studs but leave future access panels for edits later on. This should solve both problems.

My background: 22'x22' 2 car garage, attached, no insulation, no ceiling drywall open to rafters & joists, clay tiles, stucco walls.

Today, called the city inspector office to see what's involved to start the permit process. The gentleman kindly asked what I had in mind, I explained it all, then he said it would be best to come in with a diagram of the end result of what I wanted… and talk to the plans manager for a little bit (not the inspectors themselves as they are usually out and about). They are open 8:00am-3:30pm. I'll try to scoot over thru the week (I do have full time job).
When I got home, I took my tablet device and took pictures of the main electrical box and fuses (which has 3 open fuse slots on a 125A box), general picture of the garage, specific picture of the location where I plan to install the Reznor UDAP heater, the drywall cutouts for the 12/2 wire runs, general location of where I plan to install the sub-panel, the outside wall where the Reznor will penetrate outside. And now to learn Sketch-Up pretty quickly.


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## oldworld124 (Mar 2, 2008)

Holbs said:


> *starting permit process*
> 
> I'll share this blog going from start to finish. The purpose of this blog is to show other's who need to understand the process of getting *permits *to add electrical sub-panels, 110v and 220v outlets and lights, install a natural gas fired hanging furnace (mine is a Reznor UDAP 60k btu). I want to go the correct way to do things by code to appease insurance agents and re-selling agents in the future.
> 
> ...


Fist of all you will most likely need to know how many amps your machines might be needing. 220 volt is usually 30 and 40 amps for most garage type machines. You will need to run 10/3 or 8/3 with ground. 12/2 with ground is normal for 20 amp 110 volt receptacles. I suggest you make a list of your machines you have now or might get in the future in order to do your in wall wiring in the best layout possible before they are closed in.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *starting permit process*
> 
> I'll share this blog going from start to finish. The purpose of this blog is to show other's who need to understand the process of getting *permits *to add electrical sub-panels, 110v and 220v outlets and lights, install a natural gas fired hanging furnace (mine is a Reznor UDAP 60k btu). I want to go the correct way to do things by code to appease insurance agents and re-selling agents in the future.
> 
> ...


good catch on 10gauge for 220v. but why 10/3? i'll just have single pole machinery so 10/2 should suffice?

and yes.. i'll be adding my amps. so far, the 220v 18amp 3hp grizzly is the largest. i'll never go into arc / mig welding.


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## Bobmedic (Sep 24, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *starting permit process*
> 
> I'll share this blog going from start to finish. The purpose of this blog is to show other's who need to understand the process of getting *permits *to add electrical sub-panels, 110v and 220v outlets and lights, install a natural gas fired hanging furnace (mine is a Reznor UDAP 60k btu). I want to go the correct way to do things by code to appease insurance agents and re-selling agents in the future.
> 
> ...


Woodworking machines do not draw 30 - 40 amps. A welder maybe but not most machines that would go into a garage that size. 12-3 will work for most. 12 wire is good up to 20 amps. For example a 5 hp SawStop will run on a 20 amp 220 breaker with 12- 3 wire. Many machines can be wired 110 or 220. If you switch them to 220 they will draw half of the rated amps. And for machines you need 12-3 or 10-3 wire otherwise you would have to use the ground as a neutral. Machines with motors need the neutral to balance the phases. Welders and clothes dryers and hot water heaters only need 2 wire.


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## DanLyke (Feb 8, 2007)

Holbs said:


> *starting permit process*
> 
> I'll share this blog going from start to finish. The purpose of this blog is to show other's who need to understand the process of getting *permits *to add electrical sub-panels, 110v and 220v outlets and lights, install a natural gas fired hanging furnace (mine is a Reznor UDAP 60k btu). I want to go the correct way to do things by code to appease insurance agents and re-selling agents in the future.
> 
> ...


When I built my workshop, I put in a 100A subpanel from the house, and ran 12/3 Romex using GFCI breakers to alternating boxes, so within a reasonable distance of any wall location I have access to 4 different circuits.

I also ran 3 dedicated 220 circuits on 10/3 Romex, 10/3 so that I'd have neutral, ground, and either phase. Amusing side note, I also ran #10 to my heat pump, which used #14 internally. Gave both me and the inspector a moment of "WTF???" when we looked at the connection the heating contractor had made from my big heavy solid-core wire to the teeny tiny wires going to the compressor and fan.

Next time I'd probably just run 12/2 Romex and GFCI sockets, the GFCI breakers for the Edison/shared neutral circuits were expensive enough that the extra Romex would be cheap.

I wouldn't bother with SketchUp, pencil and paper is faster. Here are my plans, yeah, the electrical page I scanned has a big red "X" on it, but once I got the Title 24 issues resolved with the city I used that exact same page again to get my electrical permit.

I think if I already had finished walls, I'd seriously consider just running conduit on the surface and THHN.


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## Bogeyguy (Sep 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *starting permit process*
> 
> I'll share this blog going from start to finish. The purpose of this blog is to show other's who need to understand the process of getting *permits *to add electrical sub-panels, 110v and 220v outlets and lights, install a natural gas fired hanging furnace (mine is a Reznor UDAP 60k btu). I want to go the correct way to do things by code to appease insurance agents and re-selling agents in the future.
> 
> ...


Holbs, instead of installing access panels for future electrical device installation why not rough in for them now when you are opening up the walls. Pull the wire into a box and blank it if your not going to use it. It would be a lot easier to do it now. Romex and boxes are cheap. You don't need to install a device now, but it will be easier in the future if the wire and box are there. Just my 2 penny's worth.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *starting permit process*
> 
> I'll share this blog going from start to finish. The purpose of this blog is to show other's who need to understand the process of getting *permits *to add electrical sub-panels, 110v and 220v outlets and lights, install a natural gas fired hanging furnace (mine is a Reznor UDAP 60k btu). I want to go the correct way to do things by code to appease insurance agents and re-selling agents in the future.
> 
> ...


after digging in my main breaker box… does having a 100a main panel, sound right? there is a little checklist on the lid with model # ending in "100" and one ending in "125". the "100" has check besides it. and the 2 fuses labeled 'main disconnect' are 100amp fuses.

seems rather dinky for a main, to me. i'm unsure if this limits me for garage sub panel. i know 60a is considered too small or minimum, i would like 75a. 100a would be overkill for my dinky 2car garage shop.

bogey.. my plan is to run the 12/2 for 110v outlets (6-8 of them spaced out every 4' on 2 or even 3 separate circuits, each started off by a GFCI outlet)) and run 10/3 for 3 outlets +1 for dedicated corner where the 3hp grizzly DC will reside. i will run the wires now (after talking to city plans manager), then cover the 8" drywall dado (ha…dado) with panels that i can always take off in the future for easy access for future adds / edits. i'll have to figure out if velcro'd wood or metal panels in the dado would pass code.


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## DanLyke (Feb 8, 2007)

Holbs said:


> *starting permit process*
> 
> I'll share this blog going from start to finish. The purpose of this blog is to show other's who need to understand the process of getting *permits *to add electrical sub-panels, 110v and 220v outlets and lights, install a natural gas fired hanging furnace (mine is a Reznor UDAP 60k btu). I want to go the correct way to do things by code to appease insurance agents and re-selling agents in the future.
> 
> ...


My house had a 60A main panel fuse box when I moved in. First thing I did was pay an electrician to drop a 200A breaker box in, and paid the electrician mostly because that let someone else deal with PG&E (our utility company).

60A might not be too small for a one-person shop: You need light and a tool. Lights these days sip power, call it 2A (240 watts will get you a lot of fluorescent). Your 3HP DC is 20A or so, another 20A for a saw and you're at 42A. Not too bad.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *starting permit process*
> 
> I'll share this blog going from start to finish. The purpose of this blog is to show other's who need to understand the process of getting *permits *to add electrical sub-panels, 110v and 220v outlets and lights, install a natural gas fired hanging furnace (mine is a Reznor UDAP 60k btu). I want to go the correct way to do things by code to appease insurance agents and re-selling agents in the future.
> 
> ...


my quickie amp addition if i run all at once:
15amp bosch contractor saw
18amp 3hp grizzly DC
6amps for t8 lighting (9 fixtures on 2 circuits for safety)
reznor gas heater 1amp
air cleaner 1-2amps (not sure how many air cleaners i'll have).
gives me 42amps.
of course…gotta have the stereo in there somewhere 
a couple battery charging stations.
definitely no welding aspirations in the next 20 years.
i would feel more comfy with a 75amp box or 100amp box, than 60amp. i have to shop for my electrical stuff at home depot (thanks to a $500 HD gift card). anything under 100amp box only has 2 spaces. so, look like i'm cornered to use a 100amp box anyways (thanksfully, subpanels can be equal to or less than main box).


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## DanLyke (Feb 8, 2007)

Holbs said:


> *starting permit process*
> 
> I'll share this blog going from start to finish. The purpose of this blog is to show other's who need to understand the process of getting *permits *to add electrical sub-panels, 110v and 220v outlets and lights, install a natural gas fired hanging furnace (mine is a Reznor UDAP 60k btu). I want to go the correct way to do things by code to appease insurance agents and re-selling agents in the future.
> 
> ...


Sounds like the 100A box it is. And at some point you can drop the $2k or so it'd cost you to upgrade your service to the house…


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*permit approved*

I spent some days learning SketchUp for various reasons. One, was to know exactly where my studs were and have a visual record of the spacings. Two, to make a color layout diagram for the permit process. I was all proud at how organized the SketchUp printout was.
But it took forever to get down to the city permit dept, 3 weeks. I tried to go thru the day but work prevented me from being in the area and plus, my work service truck had a challenge finding open parking spaces. So i purposely took this Wednesday off to get this process started.

I took my sexy color SketchUp 3D layout of my 2car garage to the Front Desk Clerk. She directed me to one of 3 "Plans Manager".
The things I learned:

1.) do NOT use SketchUp to make a remodel diagram. it needs to be in construction form, like what you see on new construction plans. a birds eye view looking down with walls, symbols of outlets, switches, lighting, and the panel. Google search for basic electrical symbols like: 110v duplex outlet is a 0 with 2 lines down the middle while a 220v outlet is a 0 with 3 lines down the middle.
2.) do not use pencil, use pen. it appears some folk edit the plans when they get home and it causes issues with what the inspector is given.
3.) guess-timate the total price tag of the project if you were to contract it out. materials + labor. i'm unsure why this matters, but it was asked.
4.) get there 1st thing in the morning. The Plans Manager is there to tell you what *could* work and what *could* not work. This gives you time to edit things and get back there in same day.

So after I ran home and did a free hand layout in pen on a standard 8×10" blank paper… I returned a couple hours later (gotta do this all in one day as it's hard for myself to get there). He liked what he saw and said go back to front desk to get things stamped and paid for. $108 dollars and my permit is approved.

my 2car garage layout is as follows:
3×220v dedicated circuits (1 reserved for grizzly 3hp DC)
3×110v circuits, 2 plugs each(#1 receptacle being GFCI followed by #2 receptacle being standard)
1×110v circuit, 1 plug being GFCI ceiling mounted for retractable electrical cords
1×110v circuit, 1 plug being GFCI (future Reznor gas blower furnace)
1×110v circuit, 1 plug being GFCI (future air cleaner with timer)
3 x lighting circuits with 3 separate light switches. #1 for wood working, #2 for auto-mechanics, #3 general.
outlets will be 54" high. 
running 12/2 romex with 20amp plugs in thru wall studs for plugs. 14/2 for lighting. 10/3 for 220v.

Next, rough in then call the inspector.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*panelboard, remodel boxes, and pathway: check!*










i'll keep posting my journey of remodeling my 2car garage into a basic functioning work area.
So here, I have the panelboard roughed in (I still have to seat it firmly). I decided to keep it low as this will allow more upper wall space for french cleats or cabinets, as you need 15" left of panelboard centerline and 15" right of panelboard centerline as per NEC code and 30" infront.. Those couple feet add up when you have a small work space, so down low out of the way it will go (there is no code as how low it can go).

I decided to use double gang remodel boxes for the 220v outlets. I actually had them for free, plus it will give more space for future add-ins and more storage space with the 10gauge wire in the box itself. I did purchase the deeper single gang remodel boxes for the GFCI outlets, as they are slightly more bulkier than normal outlets. All boxes are more or less 52" center from bottom.

Drilling holes thru studs. Ug. I nearly gave up on this. I started off with a regular dewault 18v drill and realized pretty fast, this is not going to work. I borrowed my work's right angle drill, purchased a Irwin speed bore 1/2" bit. Much better! Drill the holes dead center of the stud (mine are 2×4's) as per code, you need to be a specific distance away from both ends (1 1/8"? I have it written down but can not remember the exact measurement). There is no code on the distance up and down you drill holes, so I drilled 1 hole dedicated for each 220v wire, and 1 hole for 2 110v wires. But I encountered nails over and over and over again. Very frustrating. But eventually, 95% holes drilled. I have some studs that will require one of those flex bits as the right angle drill and bit will not penetrate 2 or 3 studs lined up. Plus, will need the long flex bit to penetrate through the top plate to bring down my lighting and center ceiling plug.


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## 559dustdesigns (Sep 23, 2009)

Holbs said:


> *panelboard, remodel boxes, and pathway: check!*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I did some wiring in my shop a while back and after completing the work, I realized why electricians charge what they do for their work. I enjoyed learning from this DIY project and saving a little money too. Keep up the good work.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *panelboard, remodel boxes, and pathway: check!*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


i'm only blogging the electrical and lighting remodel so that others who are thinking about it know what to roughly expect from road blocks to permit process to other things that pop up.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*98% ready to call for 1st inspection*

oooo… ALMOST ready. Caught myself in the end of doing a major booboo.
i "thought" the left buss bar was for neutrals and the right buss bar was for ground. but then i looked at the horizontal bar across the top connecting both. and i remembered my research: you can not connect neutrals and grounds in a sub-panel (this can only happen at the main disconnect panel). so i stopped and had to re-think. i get online and find out i have to order a separate part. PK23GTA is the Square D 23position ground bar i have to get at HD.


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

Holbs said:


> *98% ready to call for 1st inspection*
> 
> oooo… ALMOST ready. Caught myself in the end of doing a major booboo.
> i "thought" the left buss bar was for neutrals and the right buss bar was for ground. but then i looked at the horizontal bar across the top connecting both. and i remembered my research: you can not connect neutrals and grounds in a sub-panel (this can only happen at the main disconnect panel). so i stopped and had to re-think. i get online and find out i have to order a separate part. PK23GTA is the Square D 23position ground bar i have to get at HD.


There is also a requirement for ground to be run from the main disconnect panel. Basically, you have to run 4 wires from the main panel (Hot-Hot-Neutral_Ground) and then connect a local ground out at the sub-panel. The latest NEC damned near requires a ground rod at the subpanel.

I rewired my garage last summer… best idea I ever had! Good luck!


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *98% ready to call for 1st inspection*
> 
> oooo… ALMOST ready. Caught myself in the end of doing a major booboo.
> i "thought" the left buss bar was for neutrals and the right buss bar was for ground. but then i looked at the horizontal bar across the top connecting both. and i remembered my research: you can not connect neutrals and grounds in a sub-panel (this can only happen at the main disconnect panel). so i stopped and had to re-think. i get online and find out i have to order a separate part. PK23GTA is the Square D 23position ground bar i have to get at HD.


i ran 6/3 nm-b (with ground…the black cable in the middle of the bunch) for a 60amp run. this sub-panel is 5 feet away from main panel.

i just got back from HD as i had to purchase the grounding bar. I installed it. Luckily, it's near the same height as what I thought was the right side grounding bar (which in fact, is the right neutral side). I'll have to take a picture for an update.
I am un-sure how far along I must go for the 1st rough-in inspection. That is why I have not terminated the blacks & reds and the 6/3 cable. Nor have I terminated wires onto plugs yet.
Also, I cut out the drywall on the backside of the main panel so I can run in the 6/3. I'll have to ask the inspector something because all of the existing house wires (about 10-12 of them including 6/3 (dryer or a/c unit cable), 12/2's, etc) go thru ONE 3" hole on the backside of the main panel. I thought 10gauge and smaller were to be in their own knockout holes. I didnt even see any silicone or foam. I looked on the front side of the panel and there actually is no space for another knockout hole.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*passed rough in & final in one shot!*

thanks to LJ (lots of advice on elecrical wiring do's and dont's) community…and research just about everything about what to do for electrical add ons, the city inspector came out and was amazed at how "correctly done" and "in code" my rough-in was for someone not being an electrician by trade. he said most small hobby type garage remodels for electrical are disasters (double lugs, bonding grounding bar, wrong wire size, no GFCI in first plug in the series, etc). he was highly pleased with the separation of the wires thru the sub-panel knockouts and how organized the wires were. he liked it so much, the even signed off on the final even though this was just to be the rough-in inspection. gratned, the easy part comes next (hooking up the outlets, putting bulbs in the lights, and hooking up the 10/4 to main panel 60amp fuse).


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## Tugboater78 (May 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *passed rough in & final in one shot!*
> 
> thanks to LJ (lots of advice on elecrical wiring do's and dont's) community…and research just about everything about what to do for electrical add ons, the city inspector came out and was amazed at how "correctly done" and "in code" my rough-in was for someone not being an electrician by trade. he said most small hobby type garage remodels for electrical are disasters (double lugs, bonding grounding bar, wrong wire size, no GFCI in first plug in the series, etc). he was highly pleased with the separation of the wires thru the sub-panel knockouts and how organized the wires were. he liked it so much, the even signed off on the final even though this was just to be the rough-in inspection. gratned, the easy part comes next (hooking up the outlets, putting bulbs in the lights, and hooking up the 10/4 to main panel 60amp fuse).


good deal, electrical code is basically common sense for anyone with any knowledge of how electric power works. glad you passed and keep it safe!


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *passed rough in & final in one shot!*
> 
> thanks to LJ (lots of advice on elecrical wiring do's and dont's) community…and research just about everything about what to do for electrical add ons, the city inspector came out and was amazed at how "correctly done" and "in code" my rough-in was for someone not being an electrician by trade. he said most small hobby type garage remodels for electrical are disasters (double lugs, bonding grounding bar, wrong wire size, no GFCI in first plug in the series, etc). he was highly pleased with the separation of the wires thru the sub-panel knockouts and how organized the wires were. he liked it so much, the even signed off on the final even though this was just to be the rough-in inspection. gratned, the easy part comes next (hooking up the outlets, putting bulbs in the lights, and hooking up the 10/4 to main panel 60amp fuse).


3 months ago.. i had no idea of the science / technicalities of doing a garage remodel for electricity. but it pays to watching tons of youtube videos and LJ work shop suggestions


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## whitebeast88 (May 27, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *passed rough in & final in one shot!*
> 
> thanks to LJ (lots of advice on elecrical wiring do's and dont's) community…and research just about everything about what to do for electrical add ons, the city inspector came out and was amazed at how "correctly done" and "in code" my rough-in was for someone not being an electrician by trade. he said most small hobby type garage remodels for electrical are disasters (double lugs, bonding grounding bar, wrong wire size, no GFCI in first plug in the series, etc). he was highly pleased with the separation of the wires thru the sub-panel knockouts and how organized the wires were. he liked it so much, the even signed off on the final even though this was just to be the rough-in inspection. gratned, the easy part comes next (hooking up the outlets, putting bulbs in the lights, and hooking up the 10/4 to main panel 60amp fuse).


congrats on the passing grade.now you've got to hurry up and get done so you can make some sawdust.
its amazing how much knowledge gets shared here.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *passed rough in & final in one shot!*
> 
> thanks to LJ (lots of advice on elecrical wiring do's and dont's) community…and research just about everything about what to do for electrical add ons, the city inspector came out and was amazed at how "correctly done" and "in code" my rough-in was for someone not being an electrician by trade. he said most small hobby type garage remodels for electrical are disasters (double lugs, bonding grounding bar, wrong wire size, no GFCI in first plug in the series, etc). he was highly pleased with the separation of the wires thru the sub-panel knockouts and how organized the wires were. he liked it so much, the even signed off on the final even though this was just to be the rough-in inspection. gratned, the easy part comes next (hooking up the outlets, putting bulbs in the lights, and hooking up the 10/4 to main panel 60amp fuse).












2 zone lighting (with a single bulb still hooked to main panel for emergency light), 8×110v outlets (including timer faceplate for future air cleaner), 3×220v outlets.
and next… cleanup.
i was a little hesitant to install the 6/3 wire on the 60amp fuse in the main breaker panel… but i survived.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*completion and after thought comments*

To those who are considering adding a single outlet, multiple outlets, 110v, 220v, lighting, and placement… I'll share my thought process and experience with my remodel.

1.) I've never ran an electrical circuit in my life. I couldn't tell you the difference between 14/2 and 6/3 wire a couple months ago. Everything I learned was from countless hours of YouTube, GarageJournal forum, LumberJock forum, and internet pictures / videos. For LumberJock and GarageForum, I did not post anything but instead researched a couple million posts about electrical adds and remodels.

2.) I'll point it out now: I am no electrician. There is a *death* or *burn entire house down* hazard with this stuff. I weighed the pro's and con's after the research of hiring an electrician or DIY. This is something you also must weigh for yourself, wife, and kids.

3.) I DID get a city permit. Some say, why bother? Sure… I could installed just a 110v circuit without telling anyone. But after the research, I felt being "caught" (low chance of that for minor residential stuff), if I resell the house later on (they WILL find out at house inspection time that electrical remodel was done and that creates financial headaches), or I have something to stand upon with a permit if a fire DID burn things…. the measly $100 city permit was worth it.

5.) Leg1: 12/2 (12gauge / 2 wire + ground) to handle 20amps of power, first into a 20amp GFCI which then feeds a standard 20amp receptacle. This is a garage environment so code MANDATES the first receptacle must be GFCI. Same for Leg2 and Leg3. Total of 6 outlets across 35feet of wall space. Leg4 is a dedicated 12/2 run to ceiling GFCI for corded reel or such. I also added 3 220v with 10/3 (10gauge/3wire + ground). For 220v, you do not need a GFCI. You actually do not even need 10/3 but could use 10/2 (cheaper and easier to install) as 10/3 is used for 220v appliances that also run 110v stuff (like an oven clock or such). I had some 10/3 gained from a friend so used it. I then ran 2 zones for lighting using 14/2: my main wood working area and also a auto mechanic area. I will most likely run both light zones at same time, but seemed prudent to have 2 zone lighting incase light breaker pops while i have a 3200 RPM spinning table saw blade 1" from my fingers. I placed the light switches on opposite wall of where my door way enters into the garage which forces me to initially use the existing single 110v light above garage door opener as this light is connected to the main panel, incase the entire sub-panel blows killing my 2zone lighting.

6.) I placed all electrical outlets roughly 54" high off the floor, to make room for any 4×8 sheets that I may lean against he wall and a couple inches higher for wall work bench height.

7.) I decided to go in-wall thru existing 2×4 studs, as opposed to surface mount with EMT conduit. For me, it was a financial decision more than future growth concerns and also I REALLY needed to know where all my studs were. I simply cut out 8" x 20' of drywall. When it came time to put holes in the studs… use a 1/2 hole dawg bit with a right angle drill. This will fit 2 (maybe even 3?) x 12/2 or 1×10/3 wire. Use a drill that you can drill holes with. In my case, I initially started off with a 18v Dewalt hammer drill and a paddle bit. This did not work as I had to drill holes at an angle because the drill + paddle bit would not fit between the studs. Also of CODE note: when drilling through the wall studs, drill dead center as you MUST leave 1 1/4" of each side of the hole for structural integrity ( pretty sure it's 1 1/4"... best look this up for yourself). This allows you to use upto a 5/8" hole. If you make a booboo or have to make larger holes, you will have to install nail plates for each stud. Also, drill in a straight line if possible. This will make pulling wire easier (especially 6gauge to 10gauge wire). I had to zig zag a little bit because of the outside stucco framing nails were in my way. Pulling 14/2 was easier no matter what. 12/2 was a little rougher. but man… 10gauge and 6gauge wire… grrr.

8.) wear gloves  this will save some skin off your knuckles when it comes time to pull wire.

9.) I installed 2 different dedicated 12/2 20amp to a GFCI outlets up near the cieling for my future air cleaner with a electronic timer and future Reznor forced natural gas heater. I could of went 14/2 but I had left over 12/2 so…..

10.) subpanel. I went with 100amp 20position Square D Homeline series instead of the more industrial series (QD?), for the panel itself and fuses. Since this is a sub-panel, the grounding bar (you have to buy it extra as it does not come in the box) and neutral bar must NOT be bonded together. The only place they are bonded together is in the main service disconnect panel. I ran a 6/3 (6gauge / 3 wire + ground) 6' from my main disconnect panel. I kept the subpanel low instead of high as I will use more upper real estate than lower. I installed a 60amp from on the main service panel to feed the 6/3 wire.

11.) I used blue remodel boxes. GFCI outlets need a little more depth than standard outlets so keep that in mind when you buy your boxes. I just went ahead and bought all deep boxes. For 220v outlets, I thought smart to use double gang boxes instead of single gang.


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## jimmyb (Mar 21, 2013)

Holbs said:


> *completion and after thought comments*
> 
> To those who are considering adding a single outlet, multiple outlets, 110v, 220v, lighting, and placement… I'll share my thought process and experience with my remodel.
> 
> ...


Good job for a non-electrician.


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## EEngineer (Jul 4, 2008)

Holbs said:


> *completion and after thought comments*
> 
> To those who are considering adding a single outlet, multiple outlets, 110v, 220v, lighting, and placement… I'll share my thought process and experience with my remodel.
> 
> ...


Good job for an electrician… at least the ones I have worked with!


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *completion and after thought comments*
> 
> To those who are considering adding a single outlet, multiple outlets, 110v, 220v, lighting, and placement… I'll share my thought process and experience with my remodel.
> 
> ...


it was also very confusing, to follow Da Code. For example: everything I read said you could only put 2 12or14 gauge wires thru a single knockout and a 10gauge goes solo through single knockout, in a panel. I did that in my sub-panel (as there were tons of knockouts). But where all the house feeds poke thru the wall to the outside main breaker box, everything goes thru a 3" hole. The city inspector said 'you gotta do what you gotta do' so I did the same with my 6gauge feed.

Also, he said he would of liked to of seen6" of wire to be stored from the front of the remodel box, not from the backside of the remodel box like I did. Luckily, he passed it anyways.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*reznor natural gas heater, installed and running*










my 60,000BTU kerosene heater ran out at the end of september. i have been hesitant to refill as i knew i MUST get my Reznor UDAP60 (60k btu) installed and running. as always, lots of research about city code, professional installations, youtube, hvac forums, this site, etc before i tackle any major project (i consider major as things that can go boom or catch fire). early on, i had a $500 quote of hanging it, venting it, piping it, and testing it. that was out of the question as i figured i could do 98% of it all myself (except the piping and testing of natural gas, which i'll never touch…. at least for now). 
Found out, my outside stucco is not the normal stuff. 1/4" thick and i could puncture with hands and chisel AOK. I had my masonry bit and dewault ready to use, but didnt need it. I DID do the boobo of buying a $15 thermostat at HD which turned out to be for 110v or 220v base board heaters. Luckily, I did buy a $5 unknown brand name thermostat at an auction earlier in the year just for this (i preferred a simple mechanical one but…eh).
All in all.. i'm happy. I can now stay in the garage after work without worrying if i can feel my fingers after an hour.
Next step… finish off ceiling insulation. I am 95% done. I left portions open for the Reznor installation and some electrical wiring to do (another leg of lighting). Then… drywall! solo! weee…...


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *reznor natural gas heater, installed and running*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I hear they are very good heat sources


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## magaoitin (Oct 20, 2015)

Holbs said:


> *reznor natural gas heater, installed and running*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I just found your build and am avidly reading backwards though your process! Well done. I wish I would have found your series before starting my build. We are almost identical in how we have approached the electrical (removable chase ) and heating.

That is the exact heater I just installed, but I am surprised you found a plumber to quote the install. I couldn't find any plumbers that would quote the hookup. Out of 5 I called, every one said they would not install any equipment that I did not buy from them. Add to this all of their quotes for gas line install were outrageous as well. $500 to hang vent and test a heater?? That's $50 in parts and an hour of time. Well I guess they have to get the 4 hour minimum at $120/hour somehow.

How well has the Reznor been performing in your space? and in the Reno winters?


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *reznor natural gas heater, installed and running*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Was not a plumber but a HVAC business. I am a business telephone system and cabling guy, by day. So have various contacts with business owners and such. One business works HVAC and has installed these Reznor's in offices & warehouses. They sent a tech out for free to extend the gas line a couple feet from main line to where the Reznor resides. Call it a favor for doing great business telecommunications work for them  Originally they would of charged me $100 to extend the gas line and test it. I hung the unit myself, installed the thermostat. Unsure where your $500 comes into play at a 4hour minimum. The guy was here for just 20-30minutes to complete the extension. Granted, my extension was a couple feet from the main gas line though.

How well does it work? If it is 20 or 30 degree out in the garage, I fire it up by setting thermostat to 65 and it takes 10-15minutes to walk in with shorts and tshirt. And that was BEFORE I installed drywall and sealing to my ceiling.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Adding 5/8" drywall to ceiling*

Going about this solo with no help. Rented Home Depot drywall lift. Each sheet is 4'x12' 105lb 5/8" Fire-X. 10 sheets total. Had HD deliver 10 sheets as I have no reliable method to transport 1,000lbs of 12' drywall. Took down lights and electrical faceplates. Added an extra 220v 10/2 wire since I have a home for my 220v 3HP Grizzly DC, and 2 extra 110v 12/2 wire runs along a far wall (thought best to have the outlets there when I sheetrocked ceiling before too late). I'll have to take pictures of how I get a 4'x12' sheet up on drywall lift solo. Using 1 5/8" drywall screws as well.
Installed first sheet Saturday night so I can see what's in store for me Sunday.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Adding 5/8" drywall to ceiling*
> 
> Going about this solo with no help. Rented Home Depot drywall lift. Each sheet is 4'x12' 105lb 5/8" Fire-X. 10 sheets total. Had HD deliver 10 sheets as I have no reliable method to transport 1,000lbs of 12' drywall. Took down lights and electrical faceplates. Added an extra 220v 10/2 wire since I have a home for my 220v 3HP Grizzly DC, and 2 extra 110v 12/2 wire runs along a far wall (thought best to have the outlets there when I sheetrocked ceiling before too late). I'll have to take pictures of how I get a 4'x12' sheet up on drywall lift solo. Using 1 5/8" drywall screws as well.
> Installed first sheet Saturday night so I can see what's in store for me Sunday.


Those sheetrock lifts can be a Godsend when doing sheetwork like this !


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## JPJ (Mar 25, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Adding 5/8" drywall to ceiling*
> 
> Going about this solo with no help. Rented Home Depot drywall lift. Each sheet is 4'x12' 105lb 5/8" Fire-X. 10 sheets total. Had HD deliver 10 sheets as I have no reliable method to transport 1,000lbs of 12' drywall. Took down lights and electrical faceplates. Added an extra 220v 10/2 wire since I have a home for my 220v 3HP Grizzly DC, and 2 extra 110v 12/2 wire runs along a far wall (thought best to have the outlets there when I sheetrocked ceiling before too late). I'll have to take pictures of how I get a 4'x12' sheet up on drywall lift solo. Using 1 5/8" drywall screws as well.
> Installed first sheet Saturday night so I can see what's in store for me Sunday.


More than one way to skin a cat!


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Adding 5/8" drywall to ceiling*
> 
> Going about this solo with no help. Rented Home Depot drywall lift. Each sheet is 4'x12' 105lb 5/8" Fire-X. 10 sheets total. Had HD deliver 10 sheets as I have no reliable method to transport 1,000lbs of 12' drywall. Took down lights and electrical faceplates. Added an extra 220v 10/2 wire since I have a home for my 220v 3HP Grizzly DC, and 2 extra 110v 12/2 wire runs along a far wall (thought best to have the outlets there when I sheetrocked ceiling before too late). I'll have to take pictures of how I get a 4'x12' sheet up on drywall lift solo. Using 1 5/8" drywall screws as well.
> Installed first sheet Saturday night so I can see what's in store for me Sunday.


This is the first time putting up sheetrock. Especially first time putting sheetrock on a ceiling. I guess I should give some background as to why it was the way it was. When I first moved into this house & 2 car garage, the garage had finished walls & ceiling with a single light bulb in the middle and a single 15amp 110v outlet on the wall. I knew I had to run electrical, voice/data cables (that's my full time job so that stuff is easy), gas line for my Reznor NG heater, and some other things. So out came the ceiling drywall. I did come to insulate it with R-19 (in retrospect, should of went higher but R-19 was a good compromise) insulation roll batts. I did run the electrical and all necessary cables. It actually wasn't too shabby in the winter for retaining heat. This summer though…ouch… the 100 degree days. My 15,000 BTU window a/c couldn't do too well because gaps in insulation, not sealed, etc. So my first step in furthering climate control is to seal the ceiling with 5/8th Fire rated drywall. That should help a ton. Next, blown in insulation on side walls.

Mind you…I had no experience with electrical (110v or 220v) wiring nor insulation installing nor drywall work. Yes, I could of hired someone for this and that. But this DIY stuff is … needed experience.


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## Redoak49 (Dec 15, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Adding 5/8" drywall to ceiling*
> 
> Going about this solo with no help. Rented Home Depot drywall lift. Each sheet is 4'x12' 105lb 5/8" Fire-X. 10 sheets total. Had HD deliver 10 sheets as I have no reliable method to transport 1,000lbs of 12' drywall. Took down lights and electrical faceplates. Added an extra 220v 10/2 wire since I have a home for my 220v 3HP Grizzly DC, and 2 extra 110v 12/2 wire runs along a far wall (thought best to have the outlets there when I sheetrocked ceiling before too late). I'll have to take pictures of how I get a 4'x12' sheet up on drywall lift solo. Using 1 5/8" drywall screws as well.
> Installed first sheet Saturday night so I can see what's in store for me Sunday.


Very nice and you will have a nice area. Good call on the drywall lift….you are brave dealing with the 12 ft sheets.

Smart move with extra electrical as you can never have enough.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Adding 5/8" drywall to ceiling*
> 
> Going about this solo with no help. Rented Home Depot drywall lift. Each sheet is 4'x12' 105lb 5/8" Fire-X. 10 sheets total. Had HD deliver 10 sheets as I have no reliable method to transport 1,000lbs of 12' drywall. Took down lights and electrical faceplates. Added an extra 220v 10/2 wire since I have a home for my 220v 3HP Grizzly DC, and 2 extra 110v 12/2 wire runs along a far wall (thought best to have the outlets there when I sheetrocked ceiling before too late). I'll have to take pictures of how I get a 4'x12' sheet up on drywall lift solo. Using 1 5/8" drywall screws as well.
> Installed first sheet Saturday night so I can see what's in store for me Sunday.


12" drywalll is a b***h to handle but a real timesaver when hanging and taping. They do make a lightweight drywall now much easier to move. It has air entrained in the mix don't know if it is fire rated but you can definitely feel the difference in weight.


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## splintergroup (Jan 20, 2015)

Holbs said:


> *Adding 5/8" drywall to ceiling*
> 
> Going about this solo with no help. Rented Home Depot drywall lift. Each sheet is 4'x12' 105lb 5/8" Fire-X. 10 sheets total. Had HD deliver 10 sheets as I have no reliable method to transport 1,000lbs of 12' drywall. Took down lights and electrical faceplates. Added an extra 220v 10/2 wire since I have a home for my 220v 3HP Grizzly DC, and 2 extra 110v 12/2 wire runs along a far wall (thought best to have the outlets there when I sheetrocked ceiling before too late). I'll have to take pictures of how I get a 4'x12' sheet up on drywall lift solo. Using 1 5/8" drywall screws as well.
> Installed first sheet Saturday night so I can see what's in store for me Sunday.





> More than one way to skin a cat!
> 
> - JPJ


 Method #32, belt sander!

I'll never do another ceiling again without one of those lifts!


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Adding 5/8" drywall to ceiling*
> 
> Going about this solo with no help. Rented Home Depot drywall lift. Each sheet is 4'x12' 105lb 5/8" Fire-X. 10 sheets total. Had HD deliver 10 sheets as I have no reliable method to transport 1,000lbs of 12' drywall. Took down lights and electrical faceplates. Added an extra 220v 10/2 wire since I have a home for my 220v 3HP Grizzly DC, and 2 extra 110v 12/2 wire runs along a far wall (thought best to have the outlets there when I sheetrocked ceiling before too late). I'll have to take pictures of how I get a 4'x12' sheet up on drywall lift solo. Using 1 5/8" drywall screws as well.
> Installed first sheet Saturday night so I can see what's in store for me Sunday.


x


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Ceiling drywall done! Experiences learned...*

Done! Never again will I work with 4'x12' 5/8" sheets solo. It looked so easy on YouTube videos and such. Having never installed drywall before, I didn't know what to expect. It's too difficult to move and fine tune final position being on a drywall lift. Btw, those drywall lifts are "rickety". These long sheets bow badly when it comes time to use my drywall screw gun. Oh…another BTW… I purchased 1,000 screws of 1 5/8". I think I used 70-80% of those screws. I could not imagine doing all that with a regular screw gun…drywall screw gun is the way to go (luckily, picked one up at an auction for $5). 
I was naive. Did not occur to me that I would have to take down the garage rails & motor as well. That was fun (not!). Measuring the cut out holes was a chore too…always off by 1/2" or so here and there. Thought about getting the spiral bit drywall cutter tool but naw.
I should say I am 98% done. Time was running out on the HD rented drywall lift. There is one overlap I have to knock down but I can hit that with a ladder later on. Next up… re-install the lighting. Eventually mud & tape. Do I paint? I can see myself going that route. Maybe high gloss white to reflect lighting.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

Holbs said:


> *Ceiling drywall done! Experiences learned...*
> 
> Done! Never again will I work with 4'x12' 5/8" sheets solo. It looked so easy on YouTube videos and such. Having never installed drywall before, I didn't know what to expect. It's too difficult to move and fine tune final position being on a drywall lift. Btw, those drywall lifts are "rickety". These long sheets bow badly when it comes time to use my drywall screw gun. Oh…another BTW… I purchased 1,000 screws of 1 5/8". I think I used 70-80% of those screws. I could not imagine doing all that with a regular screw gun…drywall screw gun is the way to go (luckily, picked one up at an auction for $5).
> I was naive. Did not occur to me that I would have to take down the garage rails & motor as well. That was fun (not!). Measuring the cut out holes was a chore too…always off by 1/2" or so here and there. Thought about getting the spiral bit drywall cutter tool but naw.
> I should say I am 98% done. Time was running out on the HD rented drywall lift. There is one overlap I have to knock down but I can hit that with a ladder later on. Next up… re-install the lighting. Eventually mud & tape. Do I paint? I can see myself going that route. Maybe high gloss white to reflect lighting.


Nice job. I know it was a lot of work, congrats on getting it all put up.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Ceiling drywall done! Experiences learned...*
> 
> Done! Never again will I work with 4'x12' 5/8" sheets solo. It looked so easy on YouTube videos and such. Having never installed drywall before, I didn't know what to expect. It's too difficult to move and fine tune final position being on a drywall lift. Btw, those drywall lifts are "rickety". These long sheets bow badly when it comes time to use my drywall screw gun. Oh…another BTW… I purchased 1,000 screws of 1 5/8". I think I used 70-80% of those screws. I could not imagine doing all that with a regular screw gun…drywall screw gun is the way to go (luckily, picked one up at an auction for $5).
> I was naive. Did not occur to me that I would have to take down the garage rails & motor as well. That was fun (not!). Measuring the cut out holes was a chore too…always off by 1/2" or so here and there. Thought about getting the spiral bit drywall cutter tool but naw.
> I should say I am 98% done. Time was running out on the HD rented drywall lift. There is one overlap I have to knock down but I can hit that with a ladder later on. Next up… re-install the lighting. Eventually mud & tape. Do I paint? I can see myself going that route. Maybe high gloss white to reflect lighting.


I did this in the "belief" this will help with climate control. Prior, I just had the paper batt insulation in between the 24" ceiling frames. But I am no insulation specialist  Had too many gaps and holes up there. Could feel 120 degree heat pour into garage because of those issues. Hopefully, this help somewhat. I know I have to mud & tape to seal it up 100%. Plus, still have to do blown in insulation for side walls and possibly stryro foam the garage door itself. But one step at a time.


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## BurlyBob (Mar 13, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Ceiling drywall done! Experiences learned...*
> 
> Done! Never again will I work with 4'x12' 5/8" sheets solo. It looked so easy on YouTube videos and such. Having never installed drywall before, I didn't know what to expect. It's too difficult to move and fine tune final position being on a drywall lift. Btw, those drywall lifts are "rickety". These long sheets bow badly when it comes time to use my drywall screw gun. Oh…another BTW… I purchased 1,000 screws of 1 5/8". I think I used 70-80% of those screws. I could not imagine doing all that with a regular screw gun…drywall screw gun is the way to go (luckily, picked one up at an auction for $5).
> I was naive. Did not occur to me that I would have to take down the garage rails & motor as well. That was fun (not!). Measuring the cut out holes was a chore too…always off by 1/2" or so here and there. Thought about getting the spiral bit drywall cutter tool but naw.
> I should say I am 98% done. Time was running out on the HD rented drywall lift. There is one overlap I have to knock down but I can hit that with a ladder later on. Next up… re-install the lighting. Eventually mud & tape. Do I paint? I can see myself going that route. Maybe high gloss white to reflect lighting.


Absolutely paint it and I agree with semi gloss white. You won't believe the difference it will make. I speak from personal experience. I also did all my walls in semi gloss white. I maybe dreaming but is seems that saw dust cleans off the walls than I think it would if they were painted with a flat paint.


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## JPJ (Mar 25, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Ceiling drywall done! Experiences learned...*
> 
> Done! Never again will I work with 4'x12' 5/8" sheets solo. It looked so easy on YouTube videos and such. Having never installed drywall before, I didn't know what to expect. It's too difficult to move and fine tune final position being on a drywall lift. Btw, those drywall lifts are "rickety". These long sheets bow badly when it comes time to use my drywall screw gun. Oh…another BTW… I purchased 1,000 screws of 1 5/8". I think I used 70-80% of those screws. I could not imagine doing all that with a regular screw gun…drywall screw gun is the way to go (luckily, picked one up at an auction for $5).
> I was naive. Did not occur to me that I would have to take down the garage rails & motor as well. That was fun (not!). Measuring the cut out holes was a chore too…always off by 1/2" or so here and there. Thought about getting the spiral bit drywall cutter tool but naw.
> I should say I am 98% done. Time was running out on the HD rented drywall lift. There is one overlap I have to knock down but I can hit that with a ladder later on. Next up… re-install the lighting. Eventually mud & tape. Do I paint? I can see myself going that route. Maybe high gloss white to reflect lighting.


You are on your way.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Ceiling drywall done! Experiences learned...*
> 
> Done! Never again will I work with 4'x12' 5/8" sheets solo. It looked so easy on YouTube videos and such. Having never installed drywall before, I didn't know what to expect. It's too difficult to move and fine tune final position being on a drywall lift. Btw, those drywall lifts are "rickety". These long sheets bow badly when it comes time to use my drywall screw gun. Oh…another BTW… I purchased 1,000 screws of 1 5/8". I think I used 70-80% of those screws. I could not imagine doing all that with a regular screw gun…drywall screw gun is the way to go (luckily, picked one up at an auction for $5).
> I was naive. Did not occur to me that I would have to take down the garage rails & motor as well. That was fun (not!). Measuring the cut out holes was a chore too…always off by 1/2" or so here and there. Thought about getting the spiral bit drywall cutter tool but naw.
> I should say I am 98% done. Time was running out on the HD rented drywall lift. There is one overlap I have to knock down but I can hit that with a ladder later on. Next up… re-install the lighting. Eventually mud & tape. Do I paint? I can see myself going that route. Maybe high gloss white to reflect lighting.


Here is my before picture of the ceiling. Bob… I think semi gloss white is my choise (why not gloss white?). I went with "sunset" yellow at bottom of wall, "sunrise" at top of wall because I like yellow  White or even a light blue would be a nice ceiling color. Better than what I had before: insulation batts that sucked up all lighting


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## muleskinner (Sep 24, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Ceiling drywall done! Experiences learned...*
> 
> Done! Never again will I work with 4'x12' 5/8" sheets solo. It looked so easy on YouTube videos and such. Having never installed drywall before, I didn't know what to expect. It's too difficult to move and fine tune final position being on a drywall lift. Btw, those drywall lifts are "rickety". These long sheets bow badly when it comes time to use my drywall screw gun. Oh…another BTW… I purchased 1,000 screws of 1 5/8". I think I used 70-80% of those screws. I could not imagine doing all that with a regular screw gun…drywall screw gun is the way to go (luckily, picked one up at an auction for $5).
> I was naive. Did not occur to me that I would have to take down the garage rails & motor as well. That was fun (not!). Measuring the cut out holes was a chore too…always off by 1/2" or so here and there. Thought about getting the spiral bit drywall cutter tool but naw.
> I should say I am 98% done. Time was running out on the HD rented drywall lift. There is one overlap I have to knock down but I can hit that with a ladder later on. Next up… re-install the lighting. Eventually mud & tape. Do I paint? I can see myself going that route. Maybe high gloss white to reflect lighting.


I do everything myself. I'm a great believer in self reliance. Carpentry, plumbing, electrical, roofing, painting, concrete, mechanical, ... you name it. Dry wall?... I hire that out.


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## johnstoneb (Jun 14, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Ceiling drywall done! Experiences learned...*
> 
> Done! Never again will I work with 4'x12' 5/8" sheets solo. It looked so easy on YouTube videos and such. Having never installed drywall before, I didn't know what to expect. It's too difficult to move and fine tune final position being on a drywall lift. Btw, those drywall lifts are "rickety". These long sheets bow badly when it comes time to use my drywall screw gun. Oh…another BTW… I purchased 1,000 screws of 1 5/8". I think I used 70-80% of those screws. I could not imagine doing all that with a regular screw gun…drywall screw gun is the way to go (luckily, picked one up at an auction for $5).
> I was naive. Did not occur to me that I would have to take down the garage rails & motor as well. That was fun (not!). Measuring the cut out holes was a chore too…always off by 1/2" or so here and there. Thought about getting the spiral bit drywall cutter tool but naw.
> I should say I am 98% done. Time was running out on the HD rented drywall lift. There is one overlap I have to knock down but I can hit that with a ladder later on. Next up… re-install the lighting. Eventually mud & tape. Do I paint? I can see myself going that route. Maybe high gloss white to reflect lighting.


That ceiling looks good. Those drywall lifts are rickety when near full extension. White paint makes a huge difference in light. Painting the floor a light color helps also. It will make a big difference in your climate control both summer and winter.


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

Holbs said:


> *Ceiling drywall done! Experiences learned...*
> 
> Done! Never again will I work with 4'x12' 5/8" sheets solo. It looked so easy on YouTube videos and such. Having never installed drywall before, I didn't know what to expect. It's too difficult to move and fine tune final position being on a drywall lift. Btw, those drywall lifts are "rickety". These long sheets bow badly when it comes time to use my drywall screw gun. Oh…another BTW… I purchased 1,000 screws of 1 5/8". I think I used 70-80% of those screws. I could not imagine doing all that with a regular screw gun…drywall screw gun is the way to go (luckily, picked one up at an auction for $5).
> I was naive. Did not occur to me that I would have to take down the garage rails & motor as well. That was fun (not!). Measuring the cut out holes was a chore too…always off by 1/2" or so here and there. Thought about getting the spiral bit drywall cutter tool but naw.
> I should say I am 98% done. Time was running out on the HD rented drywall lift. There is one overlap I have to knock down but I can hit that with a ladder later on. Next up… re-install the lighting. Eventually mud & tape. Do I paint? I can see myself going that route. Maybe high gloss white to reflect lighting.


if you thought that was hard ….... wait till mud ….LOL ….......looks great though ….....cant wait to see it finished


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## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Ceiling drywall done! Experiences learned...*
> 
> Done! Never again will I work with 4'x12' 5/8" sheets solo. It looked so easy on YouTube videos and such. Having never installed drywall before, I didn't know what to expect. It's too difficult to move and fine tune final position being on a drywall lift. Btw, those drywall lifts are "rickety". These long sheets bow badly when it comes time to use my drywall screw gun. Oh…another BTW… I purchased 1,000 screws of 1 5/8". I think I used 70-80% of those screws. I could not imagine doing all that with a regular screw gun…drywall screw gun is the way to go (luckily, picked one up at an auction for $5).
> I was naive. Did not occur to me that I would have to take down the garage rails & motor as well. That was fun (not!). Measuring the cut out holes was a chore too…always off by 1/2" or so here and there. Thought about getting the spiral bit drywall cutter tool but naw.
> I should say I am 98% done. Time was running out on the HD rented drywall lift. There is one overlap I have to knock down but I can hit that with a ladder later on. Next up… re-install the lighting. Eventually mud & tape. Do I paint? I can see myself going that route. Maybe high gloss white to reflect lighting.


I feel your pain. I remodeled a 2 car garage from bare 2×4's to a finished shop. The only difference was that I did mine in the winter which solved the heat issue, but getting the mud to dry was a pain. Had to buy a heater and install it before I could mud things. Have you thought about what you are going to do for climate control?


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Ceiling drywall done! Experiences learned...*
> 
> Done! Never again will I work with 4'x12' 5/8" sheets solo. It looked so easy on YouTube videos and such. Having never installed drywall before, I didn't know what to expect. It's too difficult to move and fine tune final position being on a drywall lift. Btw, those drywall lifts are "rickety". These long sheets bow badly when it comes time to use my drywall screw gun. Oh…another BTW… I purchased 1,000 screws of 1 5/8". I think I used 70-80% of those screws. I could not imagine doing all that with a regular screw gun…drywall screw gun is the way to go (luckily, picked one up at an auction for $5).
> I was naive. Did not occur to me that I would have to take down the garage rails & motor as well. That was fun (not!). Measuring the cut out holes was a chore too…always off by 1/2" or so here and there. Thought about getting the spiral bit drywall cutter tool but naw.
> I should say I am 98% done. Time was running out on the HD rented drywall lift. There is one overlap I have to knock down but I can hit that with a ladder later on. Next up… re-install the lighting. Eventually mud & tape. Do I paint? I can see myself going that route. Maybe high gloss white to reflect lighting.


Holbs, I was told to use a quality sealer before the paint when I had my shop rocked. They said that just using paint isn't adequate because that will soak into the mudded joints and will show up differently than the paint on the rock. This would be especially noticeable with a semi-gloss or a gloss paint.

I painted my walls and ceiling with semi-gloss white and it is very bright and I haven't noticed dust sticking to the walls or ceiling yet. That was an issue in my previous shop especially around the dust collector runs.

You have just completed (98%) a huge amount of work, but you will enjoy it every day you are in your shop.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Ceiling drywall done! Experiences learned...*
> 
> Done! Never again will I work with 4'x12' 5/8" sheets solo. It looked so easy on YouTube videos and such. Having never installed drywall before, I didn't know what to expect. It's too difficult to move and fine tune final position being on a drywall lift. Btw, those drywall lifts are "rickety". These long sheets bow badly when it comes time to use my drywall screw gun. Oh…another BTW… I purchased 1,000 screws of 1 5/8". I think I used 70-80% of those screws. I could not imagine doing all that with a regular screw gun…drywall screw gun is the way to go (luckily, picked one up at an auction for $5).
> I was naive. Did not occur to me that I would have to take down the garage rails & motor as well. That was fun (not!). Measuring the cut out holes was a chore too…always off by 1/2" or so here and there. Thought about getting the spiral bit drywall cutter tool but naw.
> I should say I am 98% done. Time was running out on the HD rented drywall lift. There is one overlap I have to knock down but I can hit that with a ladder later on. Next up… re-install the lighting. Eventually mud & tape. Do I paint? I can see myself going that route. Maybe high gloss white to reflect lighting.


I did Zinser seal on my side walls before painting things yellow. Will probably do the same for ceiling. I am no paint expert…but would high gloss be better for reflective ability than semi-gloss white?


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## Dark_Lightning (Nov 20, 2009)

Holbs said:


> *Ceiling drywall done! Experiences learned...*
> 
> Done! Never again will I work with 4'x12' 5/8" sheets solo. It looked so easy on YouTube videos and such. Having never installed drywall before, I didn't know what to expect. It's too difficult to move and fine tune final position being on a drywall lift. Btw, those drywall lifts are "rickety". These long sheets bow badly when it comes time to use my drywall screw gun. Oh…another BTW… I purchased 1,000 screws of 1 5/8". I think I used 70-80% of those screws. I could not imagine doing all that with a regular screw gun…drywall screw gun is the way to go (luckily, picked one up at an auction for $5).
> I was naive. Did not occur to me that I would have to take down the garage rails & motor as well. That was fun (not!). Measuring the cut out holes was a chore too…always off by 1/2" or so here and there. Thought about getting the spiral bit drywall cutter tool but naw.
> I should say I am 98% done. Time was running out on the HD rented drywall lift. There is one overlap I have to knock down but I can hit that with a ladder later on. Next up… re-install the lighting. Eventually mud & tape. Do I paint? I can see myself going that route. Maybe high gloss white to reflect lighting.


Yes, the gloss would reflect more light. I'd do this but I don't think my trusses are designed for that load.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Added 2 French Cleat boards around garage*

After installing drywall on my ceiling, my next goal was something I should of done this long long long ago. With my ever changing layout, these French Cleats will help greatly with organization as I can now have 2 entire walls filled with storage and shelving. I installed 3/4" 13ply plywood 12" wide board near lower chest level and 6" board at head level to give flexibility of extra height shelving and heavier duty/light duty shelving. 
4" lag bolts & washers every 16". I also found the Veritas 32 Deluxe Cabinet Making System at an auction ($50…I guess nobody knew what it was). Will be putting this jig to work shortly for 5,000 shelf pin holes! I do not see much in review section about this so will have to fire one up once done.


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## JCinVA (Feb 16, 2016)

Holbs said:


> *Added 2 French Cleat boards around garage*
> 
> After installing drywall on my ceiling, my next goal was something I should of done this long long long ago. With my ever changing layout, these French Cleats will help greatly with organization as I can now have 2 entire walls filled with storage and shelving. I installed 3/4" 13ply plywood 12" wide board near lower chest level and 6" board at head level to give flexibility of extra height shelving and heavier duty/light duty shelving.
> 4" lag bolts & washers every 16". I also found the Veritas 32 Deluxe Cabinet Making System at an auction ($50…I guess nobody knew what it was). Will be putting this jig to work shortly for 5,000 shelf pin holes! I do not see much in review section about this so will have to fire one up once done.


Those are some serious cleats… Good score on the Veritas System too; looking forward to the review.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Learning the Veritas 32 Deluxe Cabinet Making System*

With my french cleat system installed, now comes time to use this Veritas jig for the first time. I have only done 8 board feet of shelf pin holes. Enough not to need to look at the instructions all the time. I like it! When you have cazillions of holes, this jig makes it less of a chore and rather swift when it comes time to move the jig to a new board. I did a booboo though. I had all 1/4" drill bits and shelf pins, but the Veritas only comes with millimeter drill guide bushings. To temporary get around this until all the 1/4" shelf pins are used up, I use the 1mm? drill guide bushing and drill a 1/16" pilot hole and come back with a 1/4" drill bit. I see I can order a dedicated 1/4" drill guide bushing, but for now…will have to run with the temp solution.
I have to make more boards up this coming weekend, then toss up a review.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Learning the Kreg 5 jig system*

I bought this 9 months ago, and this is the first time I used it. I knew there would be situations where pocket hole joinery would be beneficial due to it's swiftness and 'gets the job done'. I am assembling a bunch of french cleat cabinet/shelving and this makes quick work. So glad I went for the Kreg 5 system instead of the Kreg 4. The handle towards you sure seems alot better than the other way around. The clamping pressure suffices to hold even a 2' board on end.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*tape & mud & sanding completed for ceiling drywall*

I can see why people hire this stuff out. But, as in wood working, I wanted to experience and learn how to do most everything DIY, which comes with a lumberjack kind of pride  I bought the necessary drywall tools (paddle, 6" knife, 12" knife, mud pan, hawk). Watched some videos on how to tape & mud. They make it look so easy  I had no stilts or roll around scaffold, just my 6' ladder. I should of added more water to the mud mixture as I can now understand why thin coats are better than heavy coats: because you have to sand and thin coats are easier to lay flat than thick coats. Either way, I did a light to medium sanding by hand on the 6' ladder. Next…sealing and painting. This is a garage / shop ceiling, not living room so not worried about going all out and using the hawk (decided that today as I do not want to mud again!).


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## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *tape & mud & sanding completed for ceiling drywall*
> 
> I can see why people hire this stuff out. But, as in wood working, I wanted to experience and learn how to do most everything DIY, which comes with a lumberjack kind of pride  I bought the necessary drywall tools (paddle, 6" knife, 12" knife, mud pan, hawk). Watched some videos on how to tape & mud. They make it look so easy  I had no stilts or roll around scaffold, just my 6' ladder. I should of added more water to the mud mixture as I can now understand why thin coats are better than heavy coats: because you have to sand and thin coats are easier to lay flat than thick coats. Either way, I did a light to medium sanding by hand on the 6' ladder. Next…sealing and painting. This is a garage / shop ceiling, not living room so not worried about going all out and using the hawk (decided that today as I do not want to mud again!).


One word of advice that comes from personal experience with doing the mudding and taping on the shop ceiling. If you aren't applying a texture to the ceiling make sure you apply a couple of coats of mud and feather them out well as well as sanding them flat. Same goes for the nail holes. If not, when you paint the ceiling every joint will stand out. You will see shadows, bulges, edges, you name it, every little flaw shows up and it is too late to sand them out because it is painted.

I also used a sponge for the intermediate smoothing to avoid all of the dust and then a light sand on the final coat.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *tape & mud & sanding completed for ceiling drywall*
> 
> I can see why people hire this stuff out. But, as in wood working, I wanted to experience and learn how to do most everything DIY, which comes with a lumberjack kind of pride  I bought the necessary drywall tools (paddle, 6" knife, 12" knife, mud pan, hawk). Watched some videos on how to tape & mud. They make it look so easy  I had no stilts or roll around scaffold, just my 6' ladder. I should of added more water to the mud mixture as I can now understand why thin coats are better than heavy coats: because you have to sand and thin coats are easier to lay flat than thick coats. Either way, I did a light to medium sanding by hand on the 6' ladder. Next…sealing and painting. This is a garage / shop ceiling, not living room so not worried about going all out and using the hawk (decided that today as I do not want to mud again!).


nope, not applying texture. This is not a show room wood shop. I already had to deal with the existing mud & tape and painting when I first moved in when i decided to paint yellow on the walls. I can see the tape somewhat and all that. I'm truly not concerned. Same for the ceiling, not a big concern. Now that I know what's involved… I should of got one of those PODS storage containers for a week and redid the entire garage. But oh well… tis why I do this stuff to learn. Before/After the default drywall mud & tape with no paint when I first moved in, as seen in this picture:


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *tape & mud & sanding completed for ceiling drywall*
> 
> I can see why people hire this stuff out. But, as in wood working, I wanted to experience and learn how to do most everything DIY, which comes with a lumberjack kind of pride  I bought the necessary drywall tools (paddle, 6" knife, 12" knife, mud pan, hawk). Watched some videos on how to tape & mud. They make it look so easy  I had no stilts or roll around scaffold, just my 6' ladder. I should of added more water to the mud mixture as I can now understand why thin coats are better than heavy coats: because you have to sand and thin coats are easier to lay flat than thick coats. Either way, I did a light to medium sanding by hand on the 6' ladder. Next…sealing and painting. This is a garage / shop ceiling, not living room so not worried about going all out and using the hawk (decided that today as I do not want to mud again!).


Good for you. Carry on. Get er done.


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## magaoitin (Oct 20, 2015)

Holbs said:


> *tape & mud & sanding completed for ceiling drywall*
> 
> I can see why people hire this stuff out. But, as in wood working, I wanted to experience and learn how to do most everything DIY, which comes with a lumberjack kind of pride  I bought the necessary drywall tools (paddle, 6" knife, 12" knife, mud pan, hawk). Watched some videos on how to tape & mud. They make it look so easy  I had no stilts or roll around scaffold, just my 6' ladder. I should of added more water to the mud mixture as I can now understand why thin coats are better than heavy coats: because you have to sand and thin coats are easier to lay flat than thick coats. Either way, I did a light to medium sanding by hand on the 6' ladder. Next…sealing and painting. This is a garage / shop ceiling, not living room so not worried about going all out and using the hawk (decided that today as I do not want to mud again!).


I cannot tell you how much I despise finishing drywall, and ceilings are the worst of the worst. From your photos you are 10 times the finisher that I will ever be!

I have a small part of my shop ceiling that I installed GWB on, and have decided to put wood trim over the joints and coffer it so I don't have to deal with taping.

I am always torn that the look of a flat wall or ceiling, with no texture, is so clean. It is hard to argue with how easy simply repainting GWB walls can change things.

I like the yellow wall as well. Anything that adds some color and light to a shop. I have had it with white walls.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *tape & mud & sanding completed for ceiling drywall*
> 
> I can see why people hire this stuff out. But, as in wood working, I wanted to experience and learn how to do most everything DIY, which comes with a lumberjack kind of pride  I bought the necessary drywall tools (paddle, 6" knife, 12" knife, mud pan, hawk). Watched some videos on how to tape & mud. They make it look so easy  I had no stilts or roll around scaffold, just my 6' ladder. I should of added more water to the mud mixture as I can now understand why thin coats are better than heavy coats: because you have to sand and thin coats are easier to lay flat than thick coats. Either way, I did a light to medium sanding by hand on the 6' ladder. Next…sealing and painting. This is a garage / shop ceiling, not living room so not worried about going all out and using the hawk (decided that today as I do not want to mud again!).


Jeff…now that I know things… I would of removed everything out of garage and spent a weekend going full throttle on the mud & taping & sanding & sealing & painting part with stilts or mobile stand instead of 6' ladder. It was too hard. Just…cumbersome because of the weather here in NV with the rain (couldn't have machines out in the rain, hence cumbersome to move things around like jigsaw puzzle)


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*sealing and painting of ceiling done. difference between careful sanding and hasten sanding*

Sealing & painting on a 6' ladder is rough  Tried to use a pole, but just seemed more comfortable getting up on the 6' ladder and going about it by hand with a roller. Here is the difference in sanding mud & tape. At first in the first picture, I was careful and diligent to have nice smooth surface. As time wore on at the achingly slow progress in the second picture, I went for the "just get it done" look. I had to remind myself it's just a garage, not a living room. I decided to use semi-gloss white instead of semi-gloss sky blue (I have sunset yellow/sunrise yellow on my walls so thought blue would be a cool theme, but eh) This was Saturday. Today Sunday, I'm afraid to watch my Steelers play the Patriots (backup qb)...so will affix the light strips, electrical faceplates, and start putting back up my 6" hvac ducting (which I have a couple ideas to edit).


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *sealing and painting of ceiling done. difference between careful sanding and hasten sanding*
> 
> Sealing & painting on a 6' ladder is rough  Tried to use a pole, but just seemed more comfortable getting up on the 6' ladder and going about it by hand with a roller. Here is the difference in sanding mud & tape. At first in the first picture, I was careful and diligent to have nice smooth surface. As time wore on at the achingly slow progress in the second picture, I went for the "just get it done" look. I had to remind myself it's just a garage, not a living room. I decided to use semi-gloss white instead of semi-gloss sky blue (I have sunset yellow/sunrise yellow on my walls so thought blue would be a cool theme, but eh) This was Saturday. Today Sunday, I'm afraid to watch my Steelers play the Patriots (backup qb)...so will affix the light strips, electrical faceplates, and start putting back up my 6" hvac ducting (which I have a couple ideas to edit).


Coming along nicely


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*garage ceiling remodel complete*

*whew* what journey. A welcomed journey full of new experiences and fun errors along the way. I bought this house with 2 car garage that has no insulation or electrical except a single light bulb and a single 15amp electrical outlet. Now, the ceiling is R-19 rolled batts, many 110v and 220v outlets, lighting, reznor natural gas heater, etc. Finally, a shop. Now, I can actually get to the wood working part  (I still have to re-hang the reznor in the corner and finish off a couple electrical outlets). I hope these remodel / refurbishing of my 2 car garage helps answer or inspire others looking to insulate, add electrical, drywalling their workshop area.
before picture and then after picture:


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## NormG (Mar 5, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *garage ceiling remodel complete*
> 
> *whew* what journey. A welcomed journey full of new experiences and fun errors along the way. I bought this house with 2 car garage that has no insulation or electrical except a single light bulb and a single 15amp electrical outlet. Now, the ceiling is R-19 rolled batts, many 110v and 220v outlets, lighting, reznor natural gas heater, etc. Finally, a shop. Now, I can actually get to the wood working part  (I still have to re-hang the reznor in the corner and finish off a couple electrical outlets). I hope these remodel / refurbishing of my 2 car garage helps answer or inspire others looking to insulate, add electrical, drywalling their workshop area.
> before picture and then after picture:


Wow, that definitely makes a huge difference and looks wonderful


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *garage ceiling remodel complete*
> 
> *whew* what journey. A welcomed journey full of new experiences and fun errors along the way. I bought this house with 2 car garage that has no insulation or electrical except a single light bulb and a single 15amp electrical outlet. Now, the ceiling is R-19 rolled batts, many 110v and 220v outlets, lighting, reznor natural gas heater, etc. Finally, a shop. Now, I can actually get to the wood working part  (I still have to re-hang the reznor in the corner and finish off a couple electrical outlets). I hope these remodel / refurbishing of my 2 car garage helps answer or inspire others looking to insulate, add electrical, drywalling their workshop area.
> before picture and then after picture:


Looking very good. I'd like to see your blog on your dust collection piping. ?


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *garage ceiling remodel complete*
> 
> *whew* what journey. A welcomed journey full of new experiences and fun errors along the way. I bought this house with 2 car garage that has no insulation or electrical except a single light bulb and a single 15amp electrical outlet. Now, the ceiling is R-19 rolled batts, many 110v and 220v outlets, lighting, reznor natural gas heater, etc. Finally, a shop. Now, I can actually get to the wood working part  (I still have to re-hang the reznor in the corner and finish off a couple electrical outlets). I hope these remodel / refurbishing of my 2 car garage helps answer or inspire others looking to insulate, add electrical, drywalling their workshop area.
> before picture and then after picture:


Roger..I just tossed up 1 dust collection blog of mine for the final product: http://lumberjocks.com/Holbs/blog/69266


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *garage ceiling remodel complete*
> 
> *whew* what journey. A welcomed journey full of new experiences and fun errors along the way. I bought this house with 2 car garage that has no insulation or electrical except a single light bulb and a single 15amp electrical outlet. Now, the ceiling is R-19 rolled batts, many 110v and 220v outlets, lighting, reznor natural gas heater, etc. Finally, a shop. Now, I can actually get to the wood working part  (I still have to re-hang the reznor in the corner and finish off a couple electrical outlets). I hope these remodel / refurbishing of my 2 car garage helps answer or inspire others looking to insulate, add electrical, drywalling their workshop area.
> before picture and then after picture:


LOL…. thnx for the link…..........I had already seen it and even commented on it… hahaha


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *garage ceiling remodel complete*
> 
> *whew* what journey. A welcomed journey full of new experiences and fun errors along the way. I bought this house with 2 car garage that has no insulation or electrical except a single light bulb and a single 15amp electrical outlet. Now, the ceiling is R-19 rolled batts, many 110v and 220v outlets, lighting, reznor natural gas heater, etc. Finally, a shop. Now, I can actually get to the wood working part  (I still have to re-hang the reznor in the corner and finish off a couple electrical outlets). I hope these remodel / refurbishing of my 2 car garage helps answer or inspire others looking to insulate, add electrical, drywalling their workshop area.
> before picture and then after picture:


blog on the piping…hmm. such as? why I went 6"? why I have 2 drops per main run then blast gate on main…followed by 2 more drops from main then blast gate…followed by 2 more drops from main then blast gate?
The joining of this pipe, spiral and latch duct?


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Reznor installed and operational*

I just had to put a blog and picture up. I really LOVE this Reznor 60,000 BTU natural gas heater I picked up for $100. I put it in the corner nearest my main gas line for convenience of install. Gas line extension and testing was done by the professionals since gas related I'll not touch. I have 2" clearance above the garage opening/closing of door. It's getting that time of year where 60+ degree days are about to go bye bye so wanted to get this completed. If it was 32 degrees out, I can set this thing for 65 and it takes 10-15 minutes to get there. Now, with my insulation and ceiling drywall complete, it should be more efficient than last year when there was no drywall and serious insulation gaps.


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## JoeinGa (Nov 26, 2012)

Holbs said:


> *Reznor installed and operational*
> 
> I just had to put a blog and picture up. I really LOVE this Reznor 60,000 BTU natural gas heater I picked up for $100. I put it in the corner nearest my main gas line for convenience of install. Gas line extension and testing was done by the professionals since gas related I'll not touch. I have 2" clearance above the garage opening/closing of door. It's getting that time of year where 60+ degree days are about to go bye bye so wanted to get this completed. If it was 32 degrees out, I can set this thing for 65 and it takes 10-15 minutes to get there. Now, with my insulation and ceiling drywall complete, it should be more efficient than last year when there was no drywall and serious insulation gaps.


Good going. Now you can be all nice and toasty while you work !


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## hookfoot (Jan 23, 2013)

Holbs said:


> *Reznor installed and operational*
> 
> I just had to put a blog and picture up. I really LOVE this Reznor 60,000 BTU natural gas heater I picked up for $100. I put it in the corner nearest my main gas line for convenience of install. Gas line extension and testing was done by the professionals since gas related I'll not touch. I have 2" clearance above the garage opening/closing of door. It's getting that time of year where 60+ degree days are about to go bye bye so wanted to get this completed. If it was 32 degrees out, I can set this thing for 65 and it takes 10-15 minutes to get there. Now, with my insulation and ceiling drywall complete, it should be more efficient than last year when there was no drywall and serious insulation gaps.


My 54000 BTU Reznor is 20 years old and still going strong. I have spent maby $30.00 on it during that time. I am burning propane.. Enjoy the heat.


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## Holbs (Nov 4, 2012)

*Garage Door finally insulated!*

Finished another much needed project for my garage/shop: insulating my 2 car garage door. I used the highly recommended RMAX Thermo-Something 1.5" rigid iso foam giving a R value of 9.5'ish with the heat reflective foil. $25'ish at Home Depot and I have to use 4 sheets. If you are in driving range of the 3 RMAX manufacturing locations (I took picture below), you can actually drive in person and get a 4×8 sheet for 75% off the damaged or not visually appealing ones! But call ahead of time because contractor business folk love this as well and snag things up. I added 7-8lbs per sheet to my garage door so now I have to hire garage door folks to adjust the door spring (I can do a DIY but I'll leave this to the pro's).
This is not the white balled styrofoam. This is iso-something foam. Very rigid, so much that I couldn't figure out how to bend it even a little to slide into my door panels. Ended up cutting panel in half and compressing both halves together for a snug fit. My door frame channels are almost "U" shaped so had to figure out how to get the insulation in there. Went with cutting in half and manually putting one in and then another. This is all friction fit. No panels are loose fitted. But I may do some strapping or hold down wire here and there. Will find out after door spring is adjusted and open/close the door a couple times to see if anything is loose after use.


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

Holbs said:


> *Garage Door finally insulated!*
> 
> Finished another much needed project for my garage/shop: insulating my 2 car garage door. I used the highly recommended RMAX Thermo-Something 1.5" rigid iso foam giving a R value of 9.5'ish with the heat reflective foil. $25'ish at Home Depot and I have to use 4 sheets. If you are in driving range of the 3 RMAX manufacturing locations (I took picture below), you can actually drive in person and get a 4×8 sheet for 75% off the damaged or not visually appealing ones! But call ahead of time because contractor business folk love this as well and snag things up. I added 7-8lbs per sheet to my garage door so now I have to hire garage door folks to adjust the door spring (I can do a DIY but I'll leave this to the pro's).
> This is not the white balled styrofoam. This is iso-something foam. Very rigid, so much that I couldn't figure out how to bend it even a little to slide into my door panels. Ended up cutting panel in half and compressing both halves together for a snug fit. My door frame channels are almost "U" shaped so had to figure out how to get the insulation in there. Went with cutting in half and manually putting one in and then another. This is all friction fit. No panels are loose fitted. But I may do some strapping or hold down wire here and there. Will find out after door spring is adjusted and open/close the door a couple times to see if anything is loose after use.


That should help quite a bit


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## RibsBrisket4me (Jul 17, 2011)

Holbs said:


> *Garage Door finally insulated!*
> 
> Finished another much needed project for my garage/shop: insulating my 2 car garage door. I used the highly recommended RMAX Thermo-Something 1.5" rigid iso foam giving a R value of 9.5'ish with the heat reflective foil. $25'ish at Home Depot and I have to use 4 sheets. If you are in driving range of the 3 RMAX manufacturing locations (I took picture below), you can actually drive in person and get a 4×8 sheet for 75% off the damaged or not visually appealing ones! But call ahead of time because contractor business folk love this as well and snag things up. I added 7-8lbs per sheet to my garage door so now I have to hire garage door folks to adjust the door spring (I can do a DIY but I'll leave this to the pro's).
> This is not the white balled styrofoam. This is iso-something foam. Very rigid, so much that I couldn't figure out how to bend it even a little to slide into my door panels. Ended up cutting panel in half and compressing both halves together for a snug fit. My door frame channels are almost "U" shaped so had to figure out how to get the insulation in there. Went with cutting in half and manually putting one in and then another. This is all friction fit. No panels are loose fitted. But I may do some strapping or hold down wire here and there. Will find out after door spring is adjusted and open/close the door a couple times to see if anything is loose after use.


An insulated garage door is really a good investment. I did mine a few years ago and it was an inexpensive, but worthwhile shop upgrade.

I live in Texas and in the summer I could literally fell the heat coming off the door. The insulation usually reduced the temp in the shop by 8-10 degrees easily.

The other added bonus is the sound deadening. I have a neighbor pretty close to me and when I use my planer I try to ensure my garage door is closed, and it really keeps the noise down and keeps my neighbor happy.

I'm sure you will reap the rewards of this upgrade for years to come.


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