# Un-Heated Garage



## Valkiera (Aug 28, 2013)

So my space is an unattached, unheated, single care garage. I'm the Pacific Northwest, on the damp side of the state. Amazingly so far I've not had a huge issue with rust, what I'm having an issue with is my wood always feels damp. And it gets chilly in the shop in the winter, though tolerable 90% of the time.

Would insulating the walls and adding a wood floor over the cement help, or am I also going to need to add a heat source too?


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## EarlS (Dec 21, 2011)

When we lived in Eugene, I used the garage as a part time shop. The walls were finished and insulated. ON Saturday morning, I would pull the cars out of the garage, set up my power tools (all on rollers) and then plug in a 110V electric space heater I bought at Jerry's. Then, I'd get some breakfast and soon after head out to the shop where it was usually a tolerable 60 deg or so. I never worried about the floor as the condensation evaporated as the temperature rose. The heat generated by the various motors on my equipment also helped with the temperature.

If you are worried about your wood holding moisture, look for a 240V unit that has a thermostat. I use one here in the Midwest (IA) during the winter to keep the temperature reasonable. I also use an A/C in the summer to keep the humidity down (and keep me cooler).


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## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I think Earl has a very good approach. If you insulate and find a you need heat, the 120V space heater is an easy to add solution.


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

I have a dehumidifier that keeps my garage dry and warm.


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## jonah (May 15, 2009)

If you insulate properly, you won't need much of a heater. A small one will make a surprising dent in the cold.


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## Carloz (Oct 12, 2016)

What about one of those Bosch/Dewalt heated jackets? 
Electric heaters with exception of fully sealed oil heaters in the woodshop is a recepy for disaster.


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## bondogaposis (Dec 18, 2011)

Personally I hate working in an unheated shop. Glue and finish problems are common. Neither machines nor humans work well in cold environments. Wood movement problems are common as well, when you bring that project inside to a warm and dry environment. One of the big advantages of heating is that it lowers the humidity. Insulate and heat, and your shop time will be much more enjoyable. Consider that the best time of year to pursue this hobby is in the winter.


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## kelvancra (May 4, 2010)

I lived in Pacific Beach, Washington, and my little shop was uninsulated and unheated, but it only took a little care to keep things in good shape.

Like you, the problem I did have was getting moisture content down. I had cedar blocks that, after four years of drying, were still dripping wet in the middle. I didn't have a lot of problem with wood picking up moisture, however. To be safe, I did store wood that, once part of a project, would be inside in the basement (my dehumidifier was a wood burning stove).

If I bought the wood at the moisture content I wanted, I just went for it. Otherwise, I figured a month inside would alter thin boards (1") and a little longer for 2x.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> Personally I hate working in an unheated shop. Glue and finish problems are common. Neither machines nor humans work well in cold environments. Wood movement problems are common as well, when you bring that project inside to a warm and dry environment. One of the big advantages of heating is that it lowers the humidity. Insulate and heat, and your shop time will be much more enjoyable. Consider that the best time of year to pursue this hobby is in the winter.
> 
> - bondogaposis


I pretty much agree with you but living in Alaska for over 44 years I've found that most machine do pretty well in the cold.


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## ArlinEastman (May 22, 2011)

I have both a dehumidifier and a space heater in my garage. The dehumidifier is plumed with a hose to go outside to drain and the heater is one that the temp can be set and left and will turn to whatever I set it to like 55 and before I go out I set it to 65.

I know for sure the Dehumidifier will get out the moisture.


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## Valkiera (Aug 28, 2013)

Thanks everyone, I'm in Western Washington and it can get very damp for extended times. My current plan is that the garage will be for breaking down lumber before it comes into the indoor "shop" (spare bedroom with hand tools mainly). I was hoping to store wood in the garage and have a chance for it to dry a bit, so far I've not found that to be true.

I'll spend the summer getting it insulated and arranged into a working configuration. Then take the advice of trying a 110v heater and see how things go.

Really appreciate you all taking the time to give me your thoughts.

Val


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## mudflap4869 (May 28, 2014)

Keep a box fan going in your wood storage area. Allow the building to vent. Motionless air cannot wick the moisture out of the wood.


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## hairy (Sep 23, 2008)

Light fixtures put out more heat than light. You need shop lights. Just a thought…

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Designers-Edge-2-Light-1-000-Watt-Halogen-Stand-Work-Light/50095118


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## Just_Iain (Apr 5, 2017)

Do a full 'Brit' and store your lumber under furniture such as the couch and beds. Ideally, material and the furniture you build from it should be acclimatized to the building where you are going to use.


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## Andybb (Sep 30, 2016)

Snohomish County resident here.

As far as the wood goes I never really had that issue. Is the wood damp or does the surface just feel damp? The latter is not an issue. It's just condensation.

Here's a $65 no work solution that works for me.

As far as warmth I use one of those propane worksite heaters. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dyna-Glo-25-000-BTU-Portable-Convection-Propane-Heater/3772625 Even on the coldest of days that thing will heat up the shop like a sauna. I let it get pretty warm in there because you are not just heating the air but the contents of the shop since all of the metal tools act like ice cubes, then I shut it off. I put on a jacket and combined with moving around the shop I stay warm. Maybe try that next year before insulating and doing anything to the floor.


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## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

Humidity is the enemy , not cold or heat.

I live in a very humid area of FL I found when I insulated and sealed up my shop it did wonders for all humidity related problems.

That being said, I have an air conditioned work/assembly room I keep my hand tools, work bench, and store the lumber for my current project.

In your situation, if at all possible I would insulate and heat the space.


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## RobS888 (May 7, 2013)

I also got a set of spring loaded hinges that push the garage door tightly to the frame. I used to see a frame of light around the door, that is gone now. I purchased a remote temp/humidity sensor, so I know it stays in the low 60s and around 40% rh.


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## Lazyman (Aug 8, 2014)

Have you ever measured the temperature of the concrete floor? If it is colder than the air temp, it will condense and absorb moisture from even slightly warmer humid air and keep the humidity higher over all as it releases it back into the air later. Instead of plywood, you might consider getting one of those rubber mats designed for garages. That might even be cheaper than trying covering the entire floor with plywood. An epoxy floor coating might also help prevent the absorption and wicking issues but it won't give you as much insulating effect. A fan keeping air flowing around your wood pile will also help.


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## BigYin (Oct 14, 2011)

i fanally found the answer to humidity and long term storage

https://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/ankor-wax-preservative-fluid.html


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## woodbutcherbynight (Oct 21, 2011)

My friends son built a homemade heater for his shop. Consist of a 55 gallon drum modified to act like a BBQ pit that is outside. He used copper tubing inside the barrel plumbed to a car radiator inside the shop with a multi speed fan pushing the air through the radiator. Has regular coolant in the pipes and a small pump (have no idea what rpm it runs at). Uses shop scraps and some kind of firebricks he makes from paper trash and sawdust. Having been in his shop during the winter one would need to wear shorts because yes it gets warm! Says he gets the fire going and only has to add bricks / scraps once a day.

OR, just use a small space heater and be sure to blow off the dust regularly. (my method form many years)


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## clin (Sep 3, 2015)

Insulating should almost always be the first step in controlling the temperature in your shop. Colder and more humid locations require some thought in how you do this to reduce problems caused by condensation.

Used to be that vapor barriers over the insulation were recommended. But I've read of some studies showing that most moisture gets into walls from the outside. So in fact adding a vapor barrier to the inside just makes it that much harder for the wall to dry.

Bottom line, check with local experts on best practices where you live. One size does not fit all.

Insulate and seal well, and you'll need much less to heat your shop.


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## Fiddy (Oct 24, 2014)

Yes, you need heat if you have cold weather. I'm in Ohio and have had two garage shops including the one I'm in now. Both were finished bays with drywall, insulation and the one I'm in now an insulated door. Tools rusted in both without having heat and with having everything I mentioned above. With that being said, I'd work towards some method of heating. Doesn't need to be hot, just maintained. I set it at around 50-55 all winter long and it keeps everything looking good. Good luck!


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