# Lenox Bandsaw blade



## GaryK

Interesting. I will have to give it a look.

Thanks


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## Grumpy

Thanks for the tip Tony.


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## Blake

Thanks for the review, Tony! I'll keep it in mind.


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## Emeralds

My band saw was a source of major aggravation and a bit of disappointment. After researching them and reading everything I could find, I waited with great anticipation for just the right machine to come along and jumped on it. Once I got it home, I cleaned it up, tuned it to what I understood to be ideal specs and grabbed a piece of scrap. From that point forward for several weeks I sat trying to figure out what in the world was wrong. I then began the odyssey of new guides, tires, wheel alignment (which on this machine is a nightmare) and after all was said and done, I had a very expensive "ESS" cutting machine. The blade was the only remaining factor and since it was new, I couldn't imagine that it could be the culprit. Out of desperation I began researching peoples "favorite" brands of band saw blades and then was faced with a new reality. My machine requires a "non-standard" size so the only things immediately available were cheap Craftsman blades like the one I was trying to replace. Finally Google directed me to a page offering custom sized premium blades available from Lenox. Five grades were offered with various tooth configurations and fortunately the one I decided on, which had been reviewed and scored very well in Popular Woodworking, although expensive didn't cost me more than the saw. It took 4 weeks to get here, but it was well worth every penny spent and minute waited. Now I know why people love and hate their band saws and although I can't say it was the Lenox blade alone that made the difference, I can say that without it all of the other improvements and adjustments were inconsequential. This blade cuts like a laser beam.


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## Tikka

JMP

I am happy that you found this write up useful. I guess I have been using my blade for about 9 months now and it still cuts the same as when it was new. I am not sure how much lumber I have cut, which has been mainly hard woods (Oak, Ash, Maple, Mahogany) but it must be in the mid - hundreds of board feet, which is mainly wide boards, re-saw and veneer cutting.

The blade has paid for itself again and again already, in less waste, no wasted time and confidence I am going to cut what I want, not what the saw wants and this does not include the cost of the standard blades I would have used in the same period of time.

This blade is a real winner


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## yohannes

Hey there,

I am a new member of this community. I am a user of LENOX TRI-MASTER CARBIDE TIPPED 3/4 TPI as well. I am very pleased with the results.

However, my blades need to be resharpened since i am using it to cut Macassar Ebony which is very hard tropical woods.

Could you tell me where i can get *a bandsaw blade sharpener *that can be used for LENOX TRI-MASTER 3/4 TPI since the teeth is vary per inch ? Also, i am planning to buy more about 30 blades. Do you know which online store or virtual store that sell them in discounted price for volume order ? I noticed www.toolcenter.com gives 25% discount, however, i was wondering if you guys know the one that sells cheaper than toolcenter.com.

Your help in this matter are really appreciated.

Thanks,
Edd


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## Tikka

Sorry I cannot help you with the resharpening of the blade, try contatcing Lenox in the USA, they may be able to point you in the correct direction. If you do find some information on resharpening, please let me know, my blade, after, what must be about 1000BF is still curring well, but could do with a touch up!

I do not live in the USA, so I have not researched for good deals on the blades. My single blade is 15 months old. As for volume purchase of blades, I guess most retailers will give you a good discount for that number of blades, it is best just to contatc them before submitting your order.


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## sbryan55

Thanks for the review, Tony. I have always believed that, with tools, you get what you pay for. I have generally used Wood Slicer and Timberwolf blades on my band saw but will have to look into the Lennox as well.


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## wizard

I am a new member. I have struggled with my 14" Powermatic so I am very interested in this blade. I have run through several different set-ups and several blade types including High end Olson and Timberwolf. I finally removed the riser block and am now getting fair resaws. I work mainly in quarter sawn white Oak. I seems like every project I do now a days requires some sort of resawing, veneer or book matched panels. My question concerns running a 3/4" blade on my saw. I am not sure I can get enough tension on my cast frame saw. I also ordered a new riser block because I need the extra capacity. They make a 1/2" 025" kerf version. Would I be better off with the 1/2"?

Any comments would be welcome.

John "wizard" Wozniak


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## Tikka

A 1/2" blade requires less force to achieve the required tension - I have no real experience with smaller bandsaws, but Lenox told me to use the same seatings I would for a normal blade. I found that the gauge found on most bands saws in meaningless - if the blade is 1/16" longer or shorter than the stock blade, then the tension indicator will not read correctly anyway.

I have used 1/4" to 1 1/4" blades for re-sawing, it all depends upon the stock you are re-sawing, experience and trial and error will tell you the correct blade and settings to use, as will the tension at which you set the blade.

I found that on my saw, I have increased the tension of the blade a little more than I would for a standard blade, but there again the Lenox blades are thicker, therefore do require more force to achieve the same tension.

As for the 14" Powermatic, you really have to, as with all band saws, get the alignment and tuning up of the bandsaw "spot on" to achieve 1st class result - believe me it is worth time and effort - there are a lot of articles published on the web and magazines on this subject, read them all you will get the feeling for what they are trying to tell you, then you can adapt it to your particular saw. When you get it correct, it really does open up a whole new world to you for the quality and appearance of your work. good luck


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## skfriedman

I purchased a Rikon Delux bandsaw a few months ago and it came with 3 Timber Wolf blades. The projects I get involved in involve slicing logs. My buddies and I collect Cuban Mahogany and other tropical hard wood species found in south Florida.

I found the Timber Wolf blades unsatisfactory. They drift and I was not comfortable with this as it tended to waste too much material. So I called the Rikon help line and explained to the rep what I was up to. He told me that Timber Wolf typically cuts their band saw blades a bit long and therefore getting the tension correct was difficult to achieve if at all. He recommended that I purchase a Lenox blade. I purchased the 111" classic blade with 3 tpi.

When it arrived a few days ago, I was able to immediately see the difference between the Lenox blade and the TW blades. Perhaps the thickness of the Lenox is partly the answer, but also having a properly sized blade has made the difference I hoping to get. I cut a weightly Neem log (about 20×13) into a couple of pieces that are now drying and will eventually be used for resawing and boxes.

I'm was surprised that TW cuts their blades long. They may be good for some of the finer work I can do with the 1/4 , 3/8" blades, but for the heavy duty stuff I stay with the Lenox.

Steve


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## Tikka

Steve.

I am still using the same blade I bought originally, that is nearly 3 years now - it is used daily - am now noticing that it is not quite as good as used to be - I have to try and find some company here that can sharpen the blade

The extra cost of the blade is really worth it - I can still re-saw veneers at 12" wide (limit of the band saw) by 1/64", it takes a little longer than it used to.

With regard to the extra length of the band saw blades, I never use the built in tension gauge, for this very reason. Experience tells me when it has enough tension, also the Lenox blades are much thicker, therefore require more tension than a standard blade, to achieve the same stiffness.

Keep the blade clean from build-up and it will last you a very long time and I sure you will be very happy with your purchase


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## gbear

Tony…I'm no expert by any means but if you have been using that trimaster for for three years and have cut thousands of board feet with it, it might be better to just get a new one rather than sharpen your old one (if that is even possible) as metal fatigue could cause the blade to break after all its use. Just a thought but it does seem like you really got your money's worth with this blade.


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## mrpedaling

kicking a thread from the dead, Tony care to finish the story on your blade- did you sharpen it or get another? What was the total lifespan. Any other comments 3 years after the after (call that 5.25yrs since the review)?


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## Tikka

Hi, all

Another update on the tri-master.

2 1/2 years ago I packed up my workshop and moved a 1 000 km or so south to Belgium, where I have been rebuilding my new house.

I have been using the same tri-master blade, unsharpend as It was at the beginning of is review. Incredible, I have been cutting all sorts materials with it, including aluminium, copper and brass, foam insulation and even wood. The re- sawing is not very good any more and the blade does now drift, indicating the need for resharpening.

Sharpening now is about 100€ a new blade is about 250€. There is plenty of carbide on the teeth, so resharpening is an option, I am reluctant to remove the blade, as I do not know what to do without it.

1 blade, 5 1/2 years of use, still more life available after resharpening, do the maths - excellent value for money


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