# Upgrade from Ridgid R4512 to Grizzly G0715P Hybrid?!?!?



## Lance09 (Jun 26, 2011)

A little background first….... I'm literally 3 months into woodworking and buying all my first tools, this is going to be a hobby of mine but I do want the accuracy to eventually do some "fine" woodworking. One of the first tools I bought was the Ridgid R4512 from HD. I though this would be a great first saw for the money but on my second project the saw ran into problems. I was cutting 8 quarter inch hard maple for my vise and it had the hardest time cutting through the 12" long stock, nevertheless it is 3/4 HP so what did expect! remember, i'm 3 months into this and I was trying to avoid learning curves that would end up costing me money in upgrades, too late I think!

I would like to get my shop up and running ASAP but I don't want to sacrifice quality of tools just so I can have it up and running 3 months from now. I like the Ridgid tools and I though the table saw would be a lasting investment but the more research I did and the accessories I wanted to add on to it is when I noticed I need an upgrade.

*What I want from my saw:*

- enough power to cut hardwoods
- I want it on casters
- I want to add the INCRA TS-LS 32" Joinery System w/ the left side router table ( will the motor hangover be an issue with a router lift installation down the road? ) IDK?????
- HTC boom arm
- effective and efficient dust collection ( I live in OKC and the wind blows hard…...dust hurts when its in your eyes!!!) 
- I don't want to spend 2k

I don't want to spend a bunch of money on my saw because I need a couple more big purchases to get my shop up and running like I want it. Take a look at my workshop and you can kind of see where I'm at in the process.

http://lumberjocks.com/Lance09/workshop

*I have my Ridgid Saw for sale on Craiglist, should I take it off and keep the saw or sale it and upgrade to the Grizzly Hybrid?????*


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Lance - Make the short drive to Jenks [1 1/2 hours], test drive my Grizz 715 and see how my shop/tools are set up. They have all seen a lot of use and I'd be happy to "review" them for you. If this sounds like a plan send me a pm for phone and directions. Andy


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## Lance09 (Jun 26, 2011)

Andy, I might have to make a trip out there someday, it doesn't hurt to have a mentor in the hobby I want to become experienced in. So overall you have been very happy with the purchase? Where did you buy it from and how much did you pay? Grizzly's site is the only place I found it at. Take a look at my future shop and please give me feedback on the other future purchases I want to make, maybe you can keep me from upgrading down the road!! lol

Thanks again Andy, I'll keep in touch and one of these weekends I'll have to make a trip out there.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I bought my saw new from Grizz and have been really happy with it. I dont use anything but Diablo blades from HD which are great for the $. Look at my shop tour and pm me with questions about any tools you are contemplating. But a trip to Tulsa would be better!


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## Kentuk55 (Sep 21, 2010)

until you get that new saw with more power, you could still use yours. when making a cut, do it in stages….. a little at a time. each time raising the blade a little higher. hard Maple is just that---hard wood..


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## tommyt654 (Dec 16, 2008)

Lance, Welcome to the forum, All hardwood will be tougher to cut with that factory blade,might I suggest you find a good thin kerf blade such as a Forrest,CMT and others and get rid of the crap they put on from the factory. I think you see a big difference. But I would still buy the Grizz as its a much better saw for the money and look at their Polar Bear series as a cheaper option,Tommy , http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P


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## elroyy (Sep 5, 2010)

Hi Lance, 
I did some research on the 4512 and I believe that it has 1 1/2 HP. I've got a 4511 with 1 3/4 and don't have any issues with power. I too use Freud Diablo thin kerf blades and have no issues at all. If you're using the blade supplied with the saw, then throw it away, mine was junk.

Before I trashed/sold a new saw, I'd invest in a $40-50 blade to see if that might be the problem, it was with my saw. 
I didn't like the accuracy of my fence, but I always measure from the fence to the front and back tooth anyway when I'm doing precision work (even the guy I buy wood from who owns a 5 hp Powermatic with a Biesemeyer fence doesn't rely on the tape on his fence). 
In the past two weeks, I've joined, planed, and ripped about 250 board feet of rough sawn quarter sawn red maple and never had one issue with my saw's power.

It's your money, but I'd try a different blade.


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## RKW (Dec 17, 2008)

i recommend more horse power and better blade. Ridgid is ok, i have the same jointer as you and i have a 13 in planer. However, someday i will upgrade those two tools. I really like steel city's line of tools. I love my t.s., it has a 1&3/4 h. motor. That combined with a good blade has served me well. I have around $1100 in it. I think the saw was 800 and the fence upgrade 300.

As far as grizzly is concerned, i have no experience with them. If im not mistaken, the only place to buy grizzly is from grizzly. They do not sale to retailers. I hear their stuff is good and you can get more saw for your dollar. Ive considered one of their bandsaws but ive decided to stick with steel city. I hope this helps.

And one more thing, it helps to occasionally clean your saw blade. A soft wire brush and soap and water works well. Any time my saw starts leaving burn marks or starts having issues cutting. I clean the blade and its almost like having a brand new blade. (It does need to be a quality blade) Freud makes really good blades but you are going to fork out some cash.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

Far be it from me to convince someone not to buy a new saw (or any tool), but I don't think the differences between these two saws are significant enough to justify a change at this point of your woodworking endeavors. While the G0715P certainly adds a few "nice to have features" like cast iron wings, nicer fence (IMO), and a full enclosure, the motor power, drive system, trunnion mounting, etc., put the two saws in a similar category. The biggest factors in the performance of these two saws are blade alignment and blade selection. If one of these two saws enjoys a significant performance advantage over the other, it'd likely be due to one of those two factors, as opposed to motor power or design differences.


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## RKW (Dec 17, 2008)

If you do decide to upgrade your saw, do no short change yourself. You will find yourself performing more and more operations on the saw that you didnt even know could be done on a t.s.


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## Lance09 (Jun 26, 2011)

elroy and tommyt654, I think your right!!! I need to invest into a better blade! I'll have to research the CMT, Forrest and the Diablo blades. I never really thought about the blade, but it makes since now, the powers there it just needs help.

Thanks guys!


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## Lance09 (Jun 26, 2011)

Scott, thanks for the feedback. My one concern between them was my future add-on's. Would the Ridgid be able to hold up a router table, and support the TS-LS fence system along with a boom arm, structurally the casters and body don't look that solid in my opinion. The table saw needs to be moved out of the way with all of these add-on's when I'm not working so my wife can get out of her car.

Randy, thanks for the hint with cleaning the blade. I'll have to try that method out once I get a quality blade.

I'm still 50-50 on the upgrade, I still need a couple bigger purchases before I can start spitting out projects so there's a lot to consider.


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

Lance - The Diablo blades are Home Depot items at under $30. The others will run $70 to $100. Try the 24 tooth Diablo rip blade first, then add the 40 tooth combo if you think you need it. I use zero clearance inserts and get very clean crosscuts with the rip blade.


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## Lance09 (Jun 26, 2011)

Andy, where do you get a zero clearance insert for the ridgid? It's like 1/8" thick so making one is out of the question i think.


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## elroyy (Sep 5, 2010)

Lance,
I found a 10" 30t glue line rip blade on ebay for around $30. Paid a little more on amazon for a good 60t crosscut blade and both are awesome. 
My wife calls me the king of bargain hunters and I probably spend so much time bargain hunting that, assigning a value to my time, I'd be better off paying retail. 
I'll chime in w/ gfadvm and say that zero clearance inserts help a lot, too. I've made all mine from 1/2 oak and they fit close enough for govt work.

Good luck!


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## gfadvm (Jan 13, 2011)

I dont know where you can buy one. I make mine and myplate is also 1/8" . Id have to show you but if you search LJ for zero clearance inserts I think you find shop made ones for your saw


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## Lance09 (Jun 26, 2011)

Thanks, I found it in a forum.


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## EvilNuff (Mar 17, 2011)

I think that Ridgid can be used 110 or 220 with a wiring change right? If so are you using it 220? If not run a 220 outlet and try that first.


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## fge (Sep 8, 2008)

The blade change is perfect. 8/4 maple is a lot for that saw and would require a slower feed rate even when using a better quality blade. If you upgrade, DO NOT buy another hybrid no mattee who the manufacturer is and consider it an upgrade. The only true upgrade that will be significant improvement over what you have is a true cabinet saw, of which grizzly makes great cabinets saws at good prices. It is like you stated yourself, you do jot want to have to continue to upgrade to often.

It i were in your position, i would upgrade the blade, and then keep a close watch on cl for a true cabinet saw such as a unisaw or powermatic. Then keep an eye to the future for an eventual upgrade to a cabinet saw with sawstop like technology when money alllowed.


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## NathanAllen (Oct 16, 2009)

Barring an ultra thin kerf 10" blade (Around $140 from Rockler on sale) you can always toss in a 7 1/4" and still have the capacity to cut 8/4 in two passes. Since circular saws have significantly less power the TKs are very reasonable and can give you a short capacity thin glue line or framing rip.

Note; always verify the max rpm on the blade and remember the blade will function as a high angle (not he best for veneer work).

The other issue is verify your fence alignment, even a cabinat saw can bind if the fence is out of wack, though while learning the kickback from a hybrid and a cabinet saw can both be very dangerous.


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## StinkyPete (Jun 19, 2011)

Is there a thin kerf riving knife available for the r4512? I think the saw ships with a riving knife that is meant for regular kerf blades.


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

I'm pretty sure the R4512 has a TK riving knife as stock.


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## rogerdodger (Jan 15, 2011)

Lance,I have the R4512 that started to slow down on rip cuts.
What I found out was that belt stretches out.So I tightened up the belt
And bought a frued 24tpi rip blade.Made all the difference in the world.
I believe it was the belt more than the blade because I can rip wood
with my 40tpi blade now.
I made my own inserts out of http://www.ptreeusa.com/uhmwproducts.htm
I bought a sheet of 3/8×4"x48"that cuts well with the bandsaw and the router.
Rog


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## StinkyPete (Jun 19, 2011)

I have a 4512, and the riving knife is .090 in. Some thin kerf blades seem to run very close to that, which seems like it wouldn't leave much room for error with some blades. The stock blade is .1 wide.

Scott or other saw gurus, do you have any recommendations on blades that would work safely with the 4512's riving knife at .090? What is a safe difference between the kerf width and the riving knife width, assuming potential inaccurate setups or possible blade runout?

On a side note, I'm new to posting here, but as newbie, I've greatly appreciated much of the insight and info provided around here. Seems like a really great and encouraging community. Just wanted to say thanks!


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## knotscott (Feb 27, 2009)

As long as the blade is a tad wider than the knife/splitter, the vast majority of decent blades should work well. Most TK blades are in the 0.094" to 0.098" range and should work fine *if the knife/splitter is lined up well.* When in operation the arbor flange and the blade are going to combine for a easily a couple of thousandths thicker than the measured blade width, so technically even a blade that's 0.091" should allow the knife/splitter to pass thru just fine. That opens up all the great choices from Freud, Infinity, Forrest, CMT, Amana, DeWalt (Precision Trim), Onsrud/Leitz, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu, Ridgid (Titanium), Systimatic, etc.


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## PaulCarlucci (Jul 30, 2011)

You do realize that the guts of R4512 and G0715P are the same, right? The trunnion parts diagram in the manual of the G0715P is identical to the diagram in the 21833's manual. They have a different cabinet, riving knife system, wings, and rails which certainly aren't insignificant diffrences. Otherwise if the Ridgid's brothers are the Craftsman 21833, Menards 240-0036, and Dayton 4KXD1, then the cousin is the G0715P.


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## PaulHWood (Mar 26, 2012)

"What I found out was that belt stretches out.So I tightened up the belt And bought a frued 24tpi rip blade.Made all the difference in the world"

Having a little trouble with how to tension the belt. My belt loosened up while trying to cut a zero clearance insert for a dado blade. Thought I had the belt tightened up, but nowe ripping is problem and the dado took multiple passes. Does anyone know a good place to explain the belt tightening. Also, stated that it shoul dbe able to touch in the middle, this belt is short and touching in the middle makes it real loose.


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## SchottFamily (Jul 30, 2011)

Hey Lance - when you posted this, were you running your R4512 in 110 or 220? I'm curious as I'm considering the Ridgid vs. the Griz. My hopes was to pick up either the PC or the Ridgid on sale and then upgrade the options as my budget allowed. From what I've read, they all seem to be pretty much the same saw as far as features go - except the griz is wearing the clothes of a cabinet saw. 
When all is said and done though, door to door, the Griz would be twice as much as the others - and I'm having a hard time justifying that up front cost.


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## Randy_ATX (Sep 18, 2011)

Looks like you have a sawstop now in your workshop.


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## Lance09 (Jun 26, 2011)

Randy, I ended up keeping my Ridgid for a couple years, middle of 2013 I got the SawStop, and love it!


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