# Finishing Kitchen Cabinets



## Panthers65 (Jul 19, 2017)

Thanks for the help in advance. I'm finishing up some kitchen cabinets and my wife wants SW Antique White on them. I have a large air compressor and a HF purple HVLP spray gun, but I'm not sure if spraying is the best way to finish these cabinets. The cabinets are raw now, what would be the best way to finish these?

I'm thinking:
Orbital sand with 150
Shoot primer (suggestions?)
Orbital sand with 220 
2 coats of antique whitepre cat
some type of sealer?

If there is a better way to do these, I'm all ears. Thanks!


----------



## LesB (Dec 21, 2008)

What kind of wood is it?
I'm thinking a second coat of primer sanded again with 320 or 400.
With a catalized top coat you probably don't need a sealer but check with the manufacturer on that.


----------



## Panthers65 (Jul 19, 2017)

Poplar for the face frames, sandeply plywood boxes.


----------



## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

> Thanks for the help in advance. I m finishing up some kitchen cabinets and my wife wants SW Antique White on them. I have a large air compressor and a HF purple HVLP spray gun, but I m not sure if spraying is the best way to finish these cabinets. The cabinets are raw now, what would be the best way to finish these?
> 
> I m thinking:
> Orbital sand with 150
> ...


I would sand to 220
spray 1 coat of SW primer undercoat (this primmer powders up and sands baby butt smooth, very nice primmer)
lightly sand with 320
Spray second coat of same primmer
Sand with 320
Spray antique white (pre-cat)
lightly sand with 320
Spray final coat
Shouldn't be a need for any top coat after that.

Another option would be to have the primmer tinted to the antique white
Spray a couple of coats (sanding in between coats as above)
Then top coat with 2 coats of clear pre-cat ( sheen of your choice) I prefer the SW dull rubbed.


----------



## ArtMann (Mar 1, 2016)

I am not sure why you would want to apply a sealer. I doubt if it would be any more durable than just the tinted lacquer.


----------



## ChefHDAN (Aug 7, 2010)

Have you shot any latex or primer through your gun? I'm soon to start the same task, have been trying to find a larger nozzle for the thicker paint to spray, curious to hear how your gun handles the paint?


----------



## wapakfred (Jul 29, 2011)

I agree with Art, why did you want to put on a sealer? The lacquer will be plenty durable. Also, using an ROS to finish sand is asking for pigtails in your finish, unless you follow it with a hand sanding.


----------



## Panthers65 (Jul 19, 2017)

> I would sand to 220
> spray 1 coat of SW primer undercoat (this primmer powders up and sands baby butt smooth, very nice primmer)
> lightly sand with 320
> Spray second coat of same primmer
> ...


Thanks, would there be any different in the two as far as durability/ease of application? Seems like either way I'd be buying primer and pre-can and applying the same number of coats.



> I am not sure why you would want to apply a sealer. I doubt if it would be any more durable than just the tinted lacquer.
> 
> - ArtMann





> I agree with Art, why did you want to put on a sealer? The lacquer will be plenty durable. Also, using an ROS to finish sand is asking for pigtails in your finish, unless you follow it with a hand sanding.
> 
> - Fred Hargis


Just what I'm use to, apply the color then seal it. If it's not necessary I'm all for removing a step. So I should just ROS Sand the bare wood, and then block/sponge sand between coats?



> Have you shot any latex or primer through your gun? I m soon to start the same task, have been trying to find a larger nozzle for the thicker paint to spray, curious to hear how your gun handles the paint?
> 
> - ChefHDAN


I haven't shot latex through it, from what I've seen the 1.4 tip on the HF gun is much too small. I did spray a dresser in pigmented lacquer from SW and it sprayed nice. HF has a couple of the suction fed cup guns that come with a 1.8 Tip, but I'm still not sure if that would be big enough. They are cheap enough and Ive got a good drill press down stairs, I might try and buy a gun and drill one out to a 2.2 and see if it would spray latex then.


----------



## jar944 (Jun 19, 2014)

I'm a fan of solvent lacquer if your area allows it.

This is a set of pantry cabinets I recently finished. Poplar face frames ro sanded to 180
1 coat of high build undercoater
Hand scuff sanded with 320
2 coats of Precat lacquer


----------



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

1.8 is sufficient for latex, however it doesnt make for a very durable finish on cabinets , unless you clear coat it .
You cant simply drill out a nozzle , the needle wouldnt match and it would leak ,


----------



## Panthers65 (Jul 19, 2017)

> 1.8 is sufficient for latex, however it doesnt make for a very durable finish on cabinets , unless you clear coat it .
> You cant simply drill out a nozzle , the needle wouldnt match and it would leak ,
> 
> - CharlesNeil


Thanks.

Does anyone know the viscosity of the Kem Aqua Surfacer? Reading more into the Kem Aqua Plus it seems to be a very thin material that would spray well through my current 1.4 Tip, but I haven't found any idea on how thick the Kem Aqua Surfacer is and if I would need the 1.8 tip or not.


----------



## rwe2156 (May 7, 2014)

IMO spraying is the ONLY way to finish cabinets. You can spray latex through a 1.4 tip, but its tricky and requires a lot of thinning. Several YT videos on this. I chose to use oil base paint (if your state will allow it).

I had my first try at HVLP spraying on a bathroom vanity build. I used SW Pro Block primer and SW ProClassic for the top coats. The HF purple gun worked fine once I learned how much to thin the paint. (BTW they are on sale today for $9.99). I did 2 coats of primer & hand sanded 220 between coats, then 2 coats of the PC.

I would not use an orbital sander between coats you will risk sanding the paint off especially on corners.

I ran the stiles, rails and panels through a drum sander & painted the panels prior to installation (caution: doing this will result in the panel being too tight so make the grooves a bit sloppy of course this depends somewhat on what type profile you use).

The biggest thing I learned is do not rush through the prep. With paint even the most miniscule defect will show up.


----------



## CharlesNeil (Oct 21, 2007)

Kem Aqua sprays well , just use the paint as the primer , unless its MDF , 
shoot a wet coat, let dry , good scuff sand with some 220 or finer for first coat, there after 320 . 
I spray it with a 1.4 straight from the can .


----------



## Joel_B (Aug 14, 2014)

I have plans to spray my kitchen cabinets and decided I would use Emtech EM6500 instead of Latex. It is supposed to spray better than Latex. You can order it in any SW color.


----------



## DS (Oct 10, 2011)

I agree with jbay. Two coats of primer, your color coat, optional 2nd color coat and done

Sometimes, if I add an antiquing glaze over the color coat, I will add a clear top coat, but otherwise, it is not needed.


----------

