# What is the best "shape" for a workshop?



## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

I just bought the large lot for my "forever" homestead. Naturally, given that I'm posting here, a nice shop building is a big part of the plans.

So, I'm just starting the "blank piece of paper" part of the design process. Blue-skying it, as it were.

I started thinking "inside the box", in a rather literal fashion. Then yesterday, while looking at the most likely spot for the building, realized that a non-square shape, like an "L" shaped building would allow me to make it bigger while still taking down fewer nice big trees. That got me to thinking…what would be the ideal "shape" for a shop?

Would the ideal shop be a square? A rectangle? A triangle? A circle? Maybe a Pentagon shaped building with an atrium?

What sayeth the crew here? What shape would be the ideal shop layout, and why?


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## becikeja (Sep 12, 2010)

The opportunity to start from scratch. Exciting.
I would recommend thinking of areas, and then let the shape flow from there.
Example, start with an area for wood storage that leads into an area for cutting which leads into an area for shaping (routers, drilling etc..) that leads into an area for sanding and finally a separate isolated area for finishing.
Ahh that would be my ideal shop. But then you have to consider economics and the square footage you have to work with.


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## dhazelton (Feb 11, 2012)

Being able to contain sawdust or paint fumes/overspray to certain areas would be a plus. Having little side rooms sounds interesting. That said it makes the foundation and construction more expensive.


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

Other than a separate "finishing" room, what other things are better "separated" in a smallish room?


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

Was just out in the "old" shop cleaning up a bit and found "steel dust" stuck to several magnetically-enhanced and/or magnetized tools on the bench.

That reminded me that a separate room for doing metal-work and other non-wood-related making/tinkering would be a good thing.


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## RichardHillius (Oct 19, 2013)

Using Area's would be how I would also do it. Size each area than work to put them together into a larger space that flows right and looks good in a building.

The separate areas I can think of I would like in a ultimate dream shop would be; wood/general storage, machine area, hand tool/assembly area, finishing area, and office/bathroom. The storage, machine and hand tool areas should flow well together with any separation being large and easy to move though. The finishing area would be a separate space easy to move stuff into and out of but completely isolated for dust and fume control. The office would be cut off for dust reasons and more a get away and planning space.

Not that I think I'll ever get a space like that but one can dream can't they?


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## Lsmart (Jan 1, 2012)

Having built some circular and triangular buildings I would say stick to rectangles… your L is two rectangles together. Any time you use standard building materials for non-standard shapes you get way more waste and spend way more time.
I have a small shop and have always thought I would like to be able to rest one end of an 10' board on the table of my table saw and be able to comfortably walk a circle around the saw while holding the other end of the board.

2 cents


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## canadianchips (Mar 12, 2010)

This is my dream shop. Tool area on left side through walk in door, repair and assembly in middle through large door and finishing on right side. Right would be divided in half for assembly and finishing.
I once had welding and woodworking under same roof. NEVER do that again, always had a greasy film on lumber.


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

> ...and office/bathroom….
> 
> - Richard H


Richard, now you're thinking! By combining these two you only need one "chair" for both!


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

Layout everything you want in a shop and then build walls around it.


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## CopperTree (Jul 3, 2015)

One one word, BIG! But that aside, I do yearn for some areas that can be closed off for finishing, clean rooms, storage, etc. Material flow is also something to consider, in one door, through the shop, out the other end. I get caught up in my own mess often…


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

It really depends upon the types of tools you own and the sort of work you want to do. From a purely utilitarian standpoint, a square is most efficient as it reduces walking time to get from point A to B compared to other shapes of the same square footage. However, certain types of large machinery might make it better to have a rectangular layout.

My personal preference is a single, large room that can be reconfigured easily. The more walls there are, the harder it is to change tool arrangements.


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## splatman (Jul 27, 2014)

This old thread has some good discussion about shop design.

From the looks of it, you're planning a woodshop in the woods, among large trees. If that's the case, digging to lay the foundation will have issues due to tree roots large and small. You'll be tearing out countless roots, leaving their ends ragged, which can lead to poor tree health, unless you cut them clean. When new roots grow, they will mess with the foundation and footing.

Better: Scrape away the forest floor litter (you'll have to do that anyway), and lay down a foot or more of fill dirt, compact it (drive a dozer all over it), and build on that. Do that now, also mix some water with the dirt (~4 gallons/cubic yard) to make it almost mud-like, after the water evaporates/seeps away, it will be hard. When you're ready to build, it will be ready.

Probably the best kind of foundation to lay in a forest, is a system of concrete piers sunk below the root line. Build the piers several inches above the ground at the highest point, build up the ground with fill (no need to compact the fill, because the piers will be carrying all the load), and pour the floor. The uncompacted fill will absorb any root heave. If building on a slope, build a temporary platform to support the floor when you pour it, so no need for fill dirt.


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

Thanks Splatman. It will be similar to your "pier method", except on top of the fill will be 2" styrofoam insulation and pex water pipe for heating and cooling.


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## MadMark (Jun 3, 2014)

Polyhedra!


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## AandCstyle (Mar 21, 2012)

Jeff, I would also create a small room for the dust collector and the air compressor for sound abatement, a separate office space room, if that is applicable to your situation and a finishing room. These could be along one side of your structure which would be a square or rectangle or as an ell off one side of the main shop, your choice. Personally, I prefer to minimize separate dedicated spaces because I see them as barriers that reduce efficiency.


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## davegutz (Oct 16, 2012)

+1 to the guy that suggested an adjoining bathroom. I'm not sure how old you are. Eventually you'll really appreciate it.


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## becikeja (Sep 12, 2010)

Dang it, I forgot the bathroom. Yes, definitely need to add that, and a utility sink while you're add it.


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## AlaskaGuy (Jan 29, 2012)

> +1 to the guy that suggested an adjoining bathroom. I m not sure how old you are. Eventually you ll really appreciate it.
> 
> - Dave G


You don't need no stinking bathroom if you live out in the woods. DAMWIKT


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

Yeah, I was kinda thinking the "utility sink" could just have an additional "utility"


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## Finn (May 26, 2010)

I had a small shop, long and narrow. Hated it. I now have a small shop, same square footage, but it is much closer to square and it is MUCH better. It has a toilet and a kitchen sink also. I now have a separate finishing room. It is a 12×10 metal building/shed. Life is good.


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## 000 (Dec 9, 2015)

I think it depends on square footage.
I had a 5000 sq ft (50×100) shop and although it was rectangle it gave to a lot of options including front roll up, side roll up. Great space for work flow to come in the front and go out the side with a spray room in the back. Lots of options.
I also have been in a smaller 2500 sq ft (50×50) shop that was pretty comfortable although I didn't have a spray area but still lots of options for setting up equipment for work flow.

Now I'm in a 3200 sq ft (approx 28×115) shop. It seems long and skinny but with a spray area in the back 30 ft of the shop, and being 28' wide, it leaves plenty of comfortable space in the front half to do all my building in. 
I like it but I think I would prefer square if I were building fresh, but again, it depends on the sq. footage.


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## DirtyMike (Dec 6, 2015)

a rectangle will improve work flow and lumber storage.


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## pintodeluxe (Sep 12, 2010)

The best shape for a shop is "large."

Estimate what size you will need and make it 20% bigger.


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## Kirk650 (May 8, 2016)

I had a barn built (30×40) and had it divided crossways and one end finished out. I have a 'workshop side' and a 'barn side'. The workshop end has a 20×20 workshop and a small apartment with a full bathroom, bunk beds, fold out couch, tv, ceiling fan, and A/C. The nasty work gets done on the barn side, as does all planing and major sawdust making, and metal work. I have a nasty greasy workbench out there and a big sink for cleanup. The workshop itself has the nice workbench and the free standing woodworking equipment, air filtration, tv, A/C, and a small kitchen.

All in all, I got it right, except that it needs to be bigger, and I'd put in a nice big powerful vac system in the walls.


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## Planeman40 (Nov 3, 2010)

I think AlaskaGuy has it right! And allow for infeed/outfeed and moving and swing of material!


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## daddywoofdawg (Feb 1, 2014)

The L shape has the advantage of up can put anything from a sliding barn type door or big trap on aircraft cable and close off the other section for ac or heating savings.I would want a lumber storage area right inside the door,and have a door at the top of the L and one on the right hand end both at pickup bed height,that way you can just roll equipment or lumber straight out of the bed and roll it back on.No lifting needed!If it's your forever your be glad you did when your older!


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

@daddywoofdawg, I like this idea of a "loading dock" style door somewhere that is at pickup-bed height. That could be REALLY handy a few million times over the years.

I have a skid-steer tractor with forks attachment that normally solves this kind of thing, but your idea might still be really handy.


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## AtlanticBryan (May 8, 2013)

Whichever shape you choose, avoid structural posts in the center. I eliminated a post in the plans for my basement shop by installing a massive steel I-beam that went from one concrete foundation wall to the other. I've never regretted it.


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## gargey (Apr 11, 2016)

sphere


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

> sphere
> 
> - gargey


@gargey, somebody else suggested a "polyhedron". When I went to look that up on wikipedia, there was a picture of a "Klein Bottle" and I thought "that's it!"...but then I realized it could get a bit confusing when you're trying to bring material into the shop. You would never be quite sure if you were inside or outside.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

Don't forget ceiling height as well. I have 12 foot ceilings and never have to worry about hitting a piece that I'm working on or raw lumber on the ceiling as I"m maneuvering them around.

My shop is 20×40 rectangle and that's just where the woodworking portion is and it's not big enough. I could double it easily and possibly still feel I could use a little more space. Also, my dust collector and compressor are in a separate area.


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## gargey (Apr 11, 2016)

Would be useful for people to indicate if they are talking about hobbyist or professional shop setups.

A 20×40 rectangle is prohibitive in size (unless rural) and in most cases prohibitive in expense for anything other than a professional undertaking.

If you have a basement or garage that's free-and-clear available as part of your hourse, that's another story, but not what we're really talking about.


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

Eleven acres inside city of Winston-Salem. Room to build is not a real limiting factor…but money is.

Still, I'm thinking something in the neighborhood of 1000 to 1500 sq feet.

(definitely a non-pro shop though.)


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## gargey (Apr 11, 2016)

Going full YOLO? That is huge.



> Still, I m thinking something in the neighborhood of 1000 to 1500 sq feet.
> - JeffP


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

Not so huge.

And, whether you only live once, or do it lots of times…seems like you might as well go big or go home (as long as we're spouting aphorisms)


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## GR8HUNTER (Jun 13, 2016)

any shape …......... as long as you have one LMAO


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> Would be useful for people to indicate if they are talking about hobbyist or professional shop setups.
> 
> A 20×40 rectangle is prohibitive in size (unless rural) and in most cases prohibitive in expense for anything other than a professional undertaking.
> 
> ...


I'm not a professional. The shop was already here, so I do have that advantage but 20×40 is not as big as it sounds. It's on average a 3 car garage.

As for what we're talking about, the OP had no limitations as far as suggestions. All I can say is, as hobbyist, a 20×40 shop can get crowded fast once you start going from bench top to floor standing machinery and once you know you have a large shop, the urge to fill it grows constantly


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## JeffP (Aug 4, 2014)

> All I can say is, as hobbyist, a 20×40 shop can get crowded fast once you start going from bench top to floor standing machinery and once you know you have a large shop, the urge to fill it grows constantly
> 
> - AZWoody


Ahmen to that brother. I haven't even built it yet and already I'm dreaming of a Tanewitz 36" band saw and a 16" Porter jointer.


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

No shop is ever big enough because it's an unspoken rule that people will always expand out to fill any given space. For a hobbyist, the size is mostly dictated by the available budget. Don't forget to leave plenty of money for extensive electrical work and good lighting!

Once it's time to setup the shop, avoid the temptation to fill it with machinery. To be productive, a lot of space is needed to move projects around. Most people would assume my 3,300 square foot shop is filled with large, industrial machines. In reality it's mostly empty floor space, assembly tables or storage racks.

No 36" bandsaw or 16" jointer for me. I'd like them but floor space is more valuable at the moment.


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## AZWoody (Jan 18, 2015)

> All I can say is, as hobbyist, a 20×40 shop can get crowded fast once you start going from bench top to floor standing machinery and once you know you have a large shop, the urge to fill it grows constantly
> 
> - AZWoody
> 
> ...


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## splatman (Jul 27, 2014)

> sphere
> 
> - gargey
> 
> ...


I just looked that up. Not so much confusing, but just plain unpractical.

I have once thought of a geodesic sphere. I think I'll consider it again. Don't remember why I dropped the idea in the first place.


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## becikeja (Sep 12, 2010)

> No shop is ever big enough because it s an unspoken rule that people will always expand out to fill any given space. For a hobbyist, the size is mostly dictated by the available budget. Don t forget to leave plenty of money for extensive electrical work and good lighting!
> 
> Once it s time to setup the shop, avoid the temptation to fill it with machinery. To be productive, a lot of space is needed to move projects around. Most people would assume my 3,300 square foot shop is filled with large, industrial machines. In reality it s mostly empty floor space, assembly tables or storage racks.
> 
> ...


You are so right. 3 years ago we moved into a new house and I was looking for a 3 car garage so I could put my shop in the 3rd. bay. This would be an expansion from the small basement shop I had when I lived up north. We found a house that had a detached work shop (2-car garage). I have completely filled it and now wanting more space. I guess you never have enough tools.


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## JackDuren (Oct 10, 2015)

> I just bought the large lot for my "forever" homestead. Naturally, given that I m posting here, a nice shop building is a big part of the plans.
> 
> So, I m just starting the "blank piece of paper" part of the design process. Blue-skying it, as it were.
> 
> ...


No matter how you build it most likely it will never be correct. Projects change and so does that perfect shop.


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## JAAune (Jan 22, 2012)

The perfect shop is a flexible shop that can be rearranged quickly. Easier said than done.


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